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LIBRARY 


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University  of  California,Berkeley 


BLACK'S  GUIDE  TO  DEVONSHIRE 


BLACK'S  GUIDE 


TO 


DEVONSHIEE 


EDITED    BY 

A.  E.  HOPE  MONCEIEFF 

EDITOR  OF   'where  SHALL  WE   GO?'    'WHERE  TO  GO   ABROAD,'   ETC. 


SEVENTEENTH    EDITION 


LONDON 

ADAM   AND   CHARLES   BLACK 

1902 


Any  communications  to  the  Editor  by  Tourists  making  use  of  this  Guide- 
book should  be  addressed  to  the  Publishers. 

LANDSCAPE 

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PREFACE 

This  Guide  has  been  recast  and  enlarged  both  in  size  and 
scope.  It  will  be  found  arranged  upon  a  principle  which 
seems  to  answer  to  the  present  conditions  of  touring.  On 
the  main  routes  of  communication,  we  have,  as  far  as 
possible,  taken  the  places  of  chief  resort  as  centres  from 
which  our  excursions  radiate  in  different  directions. 
This  arrangement  should  prove  specially  convenient  in 
Devonshire,  where  visitors  are  much  in  the  way  of 
making  their  headquarters  at  certain  popular  watering- 
places  that  afford  unusually  ample  facilities  for  pleasure- 
trips  about  their  vicinity,  or  even  to  points  at  a  consider- 
able distance. 

At  each  place  we  have  tried  to  outline  how  may  be 
most  profitably  and  pleasantly  spent  an  hour,  a  day,  a 
week,  or  whatever  time  is  likely  to  be  passed  there.  It 
is  possible  to  overload  a  Guide  with  too  many  details, 
and  to  confuse  readers  by  indicating  far  more  than  they 
can  or  care  to  see  ;  on  the  other  hand,  various  tastes  and 
needs  have  to  be  considered  within  limits  of  space  one 
would  often   wish  more   elastic.     The   Editor  can  only 


Vi  GUIDE  TO  DEVONSHIRE 

hope  he  has  made  the  best  of  these  limits  for  the  greatest 
good  of  the  greatest  number. 

As  a  rule,  the  railway  lines  and  coach  routes  are 
followed,  but  with  frequent  hints  to  pedestrians,  usually- 
distinguished  by  small  print ;  and  at  the  end  will  be 
found  an  Itinerary  of  road  distances  for  cyclists. 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Inteoduction vii 

London  to  Exeter 1 

Exeter 23 

Excursions  from  Exeter          ......  38 

Torquay 65 

Excursions  from  Torquay  (The  South  Hams) ...  76 

Exeter  to  Plymouth 97 

Plymouth  and  Environs 103 

Excursions  from  Plymouth 125 

Dartmoor 141 

Barnstaple  and  its  approaches 177 

Ilfracombe 188 

Lynton  and  Lynmouth 202 

Bideford  and  Torrington 218 

Cycling  Itinerary 233 

Index 237 


MAPS  AND  PLANS 

Devon  East,  District  Map faxing  page  1 

Exeter,  Plan  of  City „          22 

Exeter  Cathedral,  Plan  of ,         28 

Exeter,  District  Map ,,          36 

Torquay,  Plan  of „          65 

Torquay,  District  Map ,,          77 

Plymouth,  District  Map ,,        102 

Plymouth,  Stonehouse,  Devonport — Plan   .        .  „       106 

River  Tamar  (Lower  Course)        .         .        .        .  ,,124 

Dartmoor  Forest ,,130 

Dartmoor  District ,,       146 

Moreton  Hampstead  District       .         .         .         .  ,,        160 

River  Tamar  (Upper  Course)        .         .         .         .  ,,174 

North  Devon,  District  Map         .         .        .        .  „        177 

Ilfracombe,  Plan  of „        188 

Lynton,  District  Map ,,        204 

General  Map  of  County (d  end. 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

Exeter  Cathedral Frontispiece 

Dawlish  Cove facing  page  hA: 

Teignmouth        .......  ,,  58 

Torquay ,,  66 

Anstey's  Cove „         74 

Dartmouth — Butterwalk ,,         80 

Plymouth— Guildhall ,110 

Saltash  Bridge ,122 

The  Yealm  Mouth ,,128 

Brent  Tor ,,138 

Hay  Tor ,,156 

Ilfracombe ,,        192 

Lynton— Yalley  of  Rocks „        212 

Bideford ,218 

a2 


INTEODUCTION 

Devonshire,  one  of  the  largest,  is,  in  the  opinion  of  not 
a  few,  the  most  beautiful  of  English  counties.  Certainly 
there  is  none  more  attractive  throughout,  displaying  a 
greater  contrast  of  varied  charms  in  the  luxuriant  richness 
of  its  valleys  and  lowlands,  and  the  wild  picturesqueness 
of  the  hills,  that  at  some  points  might  claim  to  be  called 
mountains.  The  coast -line,  also,  is  almost  uniformly 
striking,  and  often  grand,  both  on  the  north  and  the 
south  sea  face  which  this  county  has  to  show.  Perhaps 
its  most  characteristic  feature  is  that  of  the  short  river- 
courses  by  which  Devon  is  so  thickly  seamed.  Its  name 
has  been  plausibly  derived  from  De  Avon,  Avon  being  the 
old  British  word  for  a  rapid  river ;  Axe  and  Exe,  like  Esk 
and  Usk,  have  some  similar  signification  ;  and  such  fre- 
quently recurring  terminations  as  ford  and  hridge  give  a 
plain  indication  of  the  nature  of  the  scenery. 

Devon  men  have  good  right  to  be  proud  of  their 
county,  that  has  reared  so  many  worthies  to  play  such  a 
stout  part  in  our  history,  by  land  and  sea,  in  peace  as  in 
war.  It  is  rich  in  monuments  and  memorials  of  the  past, 
testifying  to  an  importance  which  shows  no  sign  of  decay. 
The  antiquarian  will  here  be  as  much  in  clover  as  the 
amateur  of  scenery,  among  a  succession  of  relics  coming 
down  from  those  attributed  to  the  Druids,  a  dim  name 
that  still  haunts  the  mists  of  Dartmoor,  though  their 
supposed  handiwork  is  now  treated  doubtfully  by  learned 
Societies.  Mr.  Jonathan  Oldbuck's  famous  essay  on 
"  Castrametation "  could  hardly  be  judged  complete  till 
he  had  visited  the  many  heights  of  this  county,  displaying 


Xll  GUIDE  TO  DEVONSHIRE 

time-worn  fortifications,  raised  by  warriors  of  various  races, 
whose  tombs  also  may  sometimes  be  traced  near  the  scene 
of  their  battles. 

The  Antiquities  of  the  primeval  period  are  chiefly  to 
be  found  on  Dartmoor  and  its  borders,  consisting  of  crom- 
lechs, stone  circles,  alignments  (the  most  noteworthy  at 
Merivale  Bridge,  near  Prince  Town),  single  sepulchral 
stones,  kistvsens  or  stone  chests,  logans  or  rocking  stones, 
rock  basins,  hut  circles,  pounds,  and  traces  of  walled 
villages. 

Ancient  British  roads  ran  from  Exmouth  through 
Woodbury  into  Somersetshire,  via  Taunton  ;  from  Exeter 
to  Holland  and  Okehampton ;  and  also  on  Haldon.  Celts, 
rings,  and  brooches  are  from  time  to  time  unearthed  in 
various  parts  of  the  county,  especially  in  the  tin  streams 
on  Dartmoor,  and  from  sepulchral  barrows.  Roman  coins, 
and  other  relics,  have  been  frequently  discovered  in 
Exeter.  The  principal  Roman  road  passed  through  the 
whole  length  of  Devonshire  from  N.E.  to  S.W.,  and  was 
called  "Ikeneld."  It  entered  the  county  from  Dorset- 
shire, a  little  east  of  Axminster.  Roman  villas  have  been 
excavated  at  Uplyme,  and  near  Seaton ;  but  the  Roman 
remains,  coins,  pottery,  etc.,  belong  for  the  most  part  to 
Exeter  or  its  neighbourhood. 

In  relics  of  the  Middle  Ages  also  Devonshire  abounds. 
The  principal  monastic  remains  are  at  Buckfastleigh, 
Tavistock,  and  Buckland  Monachorum  ;  the  finest  castel- 
lated ruins  at  Okehampton,  Totnes,  and  Berry  Pomeroy  ; 
while  interesting  examples  of  old  domestic  architecture 
are  scattered  over  the  county.  In  very  many  of  the 
country  churches  traces  of  all  the  different  periods  of 
pointed  architecture  will  be  recognised.  Most  of  them, 
however,  were  extensively  restored  in  the  prevailing  style 
of  the  1 5th  century,  and  the  windows,  therefore,  as  a  rule, 
are  late  Perpendicular.  There  are  many  Norman  and 
Early  English  fonts,  and  numerous  examples  of  15  th 
century  woodwork,  chiefly  in  the  shape  of  screens  and 
parcloses.  The  wayside  and  churchyard  crosses  through- 
out the  county  have  received  a  great  deal  of  attention 


INTRODUCTION  Xlll 

from  local  antiquaries,  and  many  of  them  have  been  care- 
fully restored.  Perhaps  the  finest  example  is  that  at 
Copplestone,  in  the  parish  of  Colebrook. 

The  brick  of  modern  building  shows  well  against  the 
prevailing  green  of  the  landscapes,  but  Devonshire  has 
no  lack  of  quarries  to  supply  more  enduring  materials 
for  those  historic  edifices.  Its  marbles,  notably,  are  often 
used  with  fine  effect  in  church  decoration.  Granite,  lime- 
stone, and  red  sandstone  afford  a  pleasing  variety  of  effect. 
Cottages,  and  even  more  pretentious  dwellings  here,  were 
much  built  of  cob,  that  is  baked  mud,  the  use  of  which 
seems  now  dying  out,  yet  it  made  most  comfortable  houses, 
cool  in  summer  and  warm  in  winter ;  while  such  walls 
took  on  a  good  show  of  white  and  black  paint  and  creep- 
ing greenery.  In  some  parts  the  use  of  slate,  as  armour 
against  the  wind,  for  outer  walls,  will  be  noticed. 

History. — Devonshire  formed  under  the  Eomans  part 
of  the  division  known  as  Britannia  Prima.  It  then  came 
to  be  included  in  the  Saxon  Wessex,  incorporated  with 
the  rest  of  the  kingdom  under  Egbert.  There  has  since 
been  nothing  peculiar  in  its  government  save  what  were 
known  as  The  Stannary  Laws,  which  prevailed  among  the 
tin-miners  from  a  very  early  period.     (See  CrocJcern  Tor.) 

It  was  not  till  a  year  after  the  destruction  of  the  Saxon 
power  that  the  army  of  the  Conqueror  moved  westward 
and  invested  Exeter,  where  King  Harold's  mother  had 
taken  refuge.  After  the  capitulation  of  the  city.  King 
William  marched  directly  into  Cornwall,  dividing  the 
lands  of  the  county  between  his  kindred  and  followers. 
Amongst  the  most  important  of  these,  the  Pomeroys  of 
Berry  held  their  castle  until  the  reign  of  Edward  VI. 
Many  great  families  of  the  county,  such  as  the  Courtenays, 
Carews,  Fulfords,  and  Fortescues,  do  not  seem  to  have 
been  original  Norman  settlers,  but  acquired  their  lands 
in  Devon  at  a  somewhat  later  date,  since  they  are  not 
mentioned  in  Domesday. 

Except  for  the  troubles  arising  from  Exeter's  taking 
the  side  of  the  Empress  Maud,  the  county  had  but  little 
connection  with  general  English  history  till  the  Wars 


XIV  GUIDE  TO  DEVONSHIRE 

of  the  Koses  ;  and  even  then  the  operations,  apart  from 
Exeter,  were  chiefly  confined  to  slight  skirmishes  between 
the  small  parties  of  such  rival  leaders  as  the  Courtenays 
and  Bonvilles,  the  former  of  whom  declared  for  Lancaster, 
the  latter  for  York.  The  risings  of  1549,  which  com- 
menced at  Sampford ,  Courtenay  and  culminated  in  the 
siege  of  Exeter,  were  founded  on  the  change  of  ritual. 
They  chiefly  affected  the  district  between  Crediton  and 
the  capital  of  the  west.  But  the  age  of  Elizabeth  and 
the  exploits  of  those  famous  Devonshire  sea-dogs,  Drake, 
Hawkins,  Raleigh,  and  Gilbert,  notably  in  connection  with 
the  defeat  of  the  Spanish  Armada,  form  a  very  important 
part  of  the  history  of  England.  So  do  the  affairs  of 
this  county  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.  The  great  towns, 
especially  Plymouth,  were  mostly  in  favour  of  the  Parlia- 
mentary party,  but  the  county  gentry  on  the  side  of  the 
king.  Many  old  houses  can  still  show,  in  loop-holed  walls 
and  ivy-clad  ruins,  traces  of  the  disastrous  struggles  of 
that  evil  period  in  our  history. 

Once  more,  in  the  next  generation,  Monmouth's  unlucky 
rising  disturbed  the  borders  of  Devon,  not  far  from  which 
was  fought  Sedgemoor,  the  last  battle  on  English  ground. 
On  5th  November  1688,  William,  Prince  of  Orange, 
landed  on  Brixham  Quay,  and  with  his  followers  marched 
from  one  end  of  the  county  to  the  other  on  his  road  to 
London.  He  does  not  seem,  however,  to  have  secured 
much  support  in  Devon,  which,  on  the  whole,  shows  a 
spirit  of  loyalty  to  the  past  down  to  our  own  day. 

The  episcopal  see  for  Devonshire  was  at  first  established 
at  Crediton  in  a.d.  909.  The  ancient  Cornish  see,  which 
had  existed  during  the  British  independence  of  Cornwall, 
was  afterwards  united  to  that  of  Crediton  ;  and  in  1050, 
the  place  of  the  united  sees  was  removed  by  the  Confessor 
from  Crediton  to  Exeter.  There  was  no  further  change 
until  1876,  when  the  Cornish  see  was  again  separated 
from  that  of  Devonshire,  and  the  place  of  it  fixed  at 
Truro.  The  diocese  of  Exeter  is  now  therefore  confined 
to  Devonshire,  the  ancient  see  of  Crediton  having  been 
restored  as  a  suffragan  bishopric. 


INTRODUCTION  XV 

Geology. — Devonshire  is  well  adapted  for  the  purposes 
of  the  geological  student,  since  it  aflfords  representative 
formations  of  the  Palceozoic,  Mesozoic,  and  Kainozoic  epochs. 
The  first  of  these  includes  the  metamorphic  schists,  mica, 
and  slate,  which  form  the  southern  angle  of  the  county, 
of  which  the  rocks  of  Prawle  and  Bolt  Heads  are  formed. 
The  Devonian  limestones  and  slates  prevail  partially  in 
the  north  of  Devon,  as  also  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Highweek,  Tavistock,  and  the  Start.  The  Carboniferous 
rocks  spread  over  the  whole  of  Central  and  West  Devon  ; 
and  Dartmoor,  so  called  from  its  principal  river,  is  of 
granitic  formation. 

To  the  Mesozoic  period  belong  the  New  Red  Sand- 
stone, conglomerates,  and  marls,  which  prevail  in  the 
eastern  part  of  the  county,  the  last,  which  form  the  lower 
beds  of  the  series,  being  coloured  red  by  the  action  of 
peroxide  of  iron  ;  also  the  chalks  and  greensands,  which 
occur  on  the  Haldon  Hills,  near  Exeter,  and  in  the  south- 
east part  of  the  county. 

The  Kainozoic  epoch  has  left  the  Tertiary  deposits, 
flints  and  gravel,  lignite,  the  ossiferous  caverns,  the  raised 
beaches  and  submerged  forests,  traces  of  which  are  found 
in  Torbay,  at  Salcombe,  and  in  Bideford  Bay,  where  the 
recession  of  the  tide  often  exposes  the  trunks  of  trees. 
A  remarkable  Tertiary  deposit,  belonging  to  the  Lower 
Miocene  period,  occurs  at  Bovey  Tracey,  below  the  eastern 
escarpment  of  Dartmoor.  It  fills  the  bed  of  an  ancient 
lake  over  3  miles  long,  and  consists  of  beds  of  lignite, 
clay,  and  sand,  with  an  aggregate  thickness  of  more  than 
100  feet.  In  the  lignites  at  least  fifty  species  of  plants 
have  been  found,  all  indicating  a  sub-tropical  climate  ;  but 
the  greater  part  of  the  lignite  beds  is  formed  by  fragments 
of  an  enormous  coniferous  tree,  belonging  to  the  genus 
Sequoia,  the  only  living  species  of  which  are  in  California. 
Great  lumps  of  inspissated  turpentine,  due  to  the  conifers, 
are  found  here.  Fine  potters'  clay  occurs  above  this  clay 
and  sand,  and  has  been  turned  to  account  in  the  Pottery 
works  of  the  neighbourhood.  The  lignite  called  "  Bovey 
coal"  burns  with  a  disagreeable  smell,  but  is  used  locally. 


XVI  GUIDE  TO  DEVONSHIRE 

The  climate  varies  in  different  parts  of  the  county, 
being  everywhere  mild  and  moist  compared  with  that 
of  the  eastern  or  northern  parts  of  England.  Both 
Devon  and  Cornwall  have  a  mean  annual  temperature 
about  1°*5  above  that  of  the  midland  counties,  than 
which  their  shores  are  notably  warmer  in  winter,  while 
often  cooler  in  the  summer  heats.  The  air  of  the  Dartmoor 
hills  is  sharp  and  bracing,  where  mists  are  frequent,  and 
snow  often  lies  long.  On  the  south  coast  frost  is  little 
familiar,  but  rain  rather  too  much  so ;  and  many  half- 
hardy  plants,  such  as  hydrangeas,  myrtles,  geraniums, 
and  heliotropes,  live  through  the  winter  without  protec- 
tion. The  climate  of  Sidmouth,  Exmouth,  Torquay,  and 
other  watering-places  on  this  coast,  is  very  equable,  the 
mean  temperature  of  the  winter  months  being  usually 
about  47°,  while  indeed  an  exceptional  spell  of  severe 
weather  may  come  to  disappoint  delicate  visitors,  as 
during  the  blizzard  of  1891,  and  the  long  frost  of  1895. 
The  north  coast,  exposed  to  the  storms  and  swell  of  the 
Atlantic,  is  more  bracing  ;  yet  there  also,  in  the  more 
sheltered  nooks,  myrtles  of  great  size  and  age  flower 
freely  ;  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  Ilfracombe  has 
as  favoured  a  winter  climate  as  any  place  in  the  county. 
The  strip  of  the  South  Hams  between  the  rivers  Teign 
and  Tamar,  sheltered  by  the  high  land  of  Dartmoor,  is 
called  "garden  of  Devonshire."  It  may  be  considered 
the  centre  of  the  cider  district,  and  includes  also  some 
of  the  best  pasturage  in  the  county,  although  scarcely 
surpassing  that  of  the  Clyst  Valley  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Exeter. 

These  rich  pastures  are  celebrated  as  supporting  what 
is  perhaps  the  chief  industry  of  the  county,  the  supply  of 
butter,  milk,  and  that  local  luxury  which  commonly  goes 
by  the  name  of  Devonshire  cream,  though  over  the  border 
any  other  title  than  Cornish  cream  will  be  received  with 
stolid  surprise  ;  and  other  southern  meadow-lands  are  able 
to  produce  what  is  here  called  cream  jpar  excellence. 
Devonshire  apples  also  are  celebrated,  and  the  cider  made 
from  them,  which  seems  now  to  be  less  appreciated  in 


INTRODUCTION  XVll 

the  county,  while  it  comes  more  into  favour  in  London 
and  elsewhere  as  a  beverage  needing  only  care  and 
choice  to  rival  many  foreign  vintages.  The  old  woollen 
and  other  manufactures  have  to  a  great  extent  died  out, 
though  here  and  there  they  flourish  in  a  quiet  way  not 
inconsistent  with  idyllic  neighbourhood.  There  are  no 
Manchesters  or  Sheffields  to  cloud  the  face  of  Devon  ; 
but  it  is  closely  dotted  with  small  ancient  market-towns 
more  or  less  prospering  as  centres  of  agricultural  trade. 
Some  of  the  most  thriving  towns  have  risen,  in  the  course 
of  the  last  generation  or  two,  as  health  or  holiday  resorts, 
and  shall  therefore,  for  our  purposes,  receive  special 
attention.  By  far  the  largest  and  most  important  place 
in  the  county  is  Plymouth,  with  its  annexes  of  Devonport 
and  Stonehouse,  which  we  trust  to  show  as  worthy  of 
more  attention  than  it  always  receives  from  tourists  and 
pleasure -seekers.  Exeter,  the  venerable  and  dignified 
county  town,  needs  no  advertisement  to  attract  strangers. 
The  county  contains  1,667,097  acres,  or  about  2600 
square  miles.  Its  population,  by  the  last  census,  amounted 
to  660,444.  For  parliamentary  purposes  Devonshire  is 
formed  into  eight  county  divisions,  each  returning  one 
member,  viz.  East  (Honiton),  Mid  (Ashhurton),  North 
(South  Molton),  North-east  {Tiverton\  North-west  {Barn- 
staple), South  (Totnes),  West  (Tavistock),  and  Torquay, 
while  the  boroughs  of  Plymouth  and  Devonport  return 
two  members  each,  and  Exeter  has  one. 

Considering  the  ruggedness  of  its  configuration,  Devon 
is  well  off  for  railways  belonging  to  or  connected  with 
the  two  great  systems  of  the  Great  Western  and  the 
London  and  South-  Western  Companies,  whose  keen  competi- 
tion is  a  good  guarantee  for  public  convenience.  Roughly 
speaking,  it  might  be  said  that  the  G.  W.  R.  serves  the 
south  of  the  county,  the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  the  north  ;  but 
the  former  has  a  line  along  the  northern  border  from 
Taunton  to  Barnstaple,  while  the  latter,  having  already 
pushed  on  to  Plymouth,  is  credited  with  an  ambition  still 
further  to  invade  the  territory  of  its  rival.     Both  lines 


XVlll  GUIDE  TO  DEVONSHIRE 

run  express  trains  from  London  to  Exeter  in  about  four 
hours,  so  that  the  choice  between  them  is  much  a  matter 
of  nearness  to  the  London  stations,  Paddington  (G.  W.  E,.), 
and  Waterloo  (L.  &  S.-W.  E.).  The  short  cut  to  Taunton, 
by  which  the  G.  W.  R.  will  save  a  score  of  miles  on  its 
present  roundabout  route,  should  before  long  put  it  at 
marked  advantage. 

As  to  the  Hotels,  we  need  only  say  that  they  are 
usually  what  may  be  expected  at  places  much  visited  by 
strangers  ;  while  in  out-of-the-way  nooks  can  be  found 
many  snug  inns,  known  to  anglers  and  other  intimates  of 
the  scenery,  where  a  friendly  welcome  will  go  far  to  make 
up  for  any  roughness  of  lodging  or  service.  At  some  of 
the  chief  resorts,  notably  at  Torquay  and  Ilfracombe,  the 
system  of  boarding-houses  seems  to  have  taken  firm  root. 
Everywhere,  as  usual,  we  have  made  it  our  attempt  to 
mention  all  the  chief  hotels,  inns,  and  boarding-houses. 
While,  as  our  rule  is,  we  have  shrunk  from  the  responsi- 
bility of  recommendation,  it  has  been  our  design  to  name 
these  houses,  as  far  as  possible,  in  order  of  reputation  and 
expensiveness,  also,  where  desirable,  with  some  indication 
of  their  character  and  situation.  We  should  be  particu- 
larly grateful  for  corrections  here  in  any  particular, — the 
management  of  such  houses  being  so  apt  to  change. 

The  posting  charges  begin  at  the  ordinary  shilling  a 
mile  for  a  one-horse  carriage,  with  threepence  for  the 
driver.  Coaches  are  run,  especially  about  Dartmoor  and 
on  the  northern  coast,  one  stretch  of  it  still  untouched 
by  railways.  In  the  season,  at  tourist  resorts,  sociable 
driving  excursions  will  be  frequently  organised.  On  the 
coast,  steamboat  and  sailing  trips  are  in  favour.  Cyclists 
are  more  or  less  at  home  in  this  county,  abounding  as 
it  does,  in  some  parts,  with  breakneck  descents  which 
demand  caution.  There  is,  however,  no  way  of  enjoying 
a  trip  through  Devon  like  that  which  costs  nothing  for 
locomotion  but  shoe  leather.  To  pedestrians,  in  particular, 
we  have  one  word  of  excuse  for  a  certain  vagueness  that 
may  sometimes  appear  in  our  estimate  of  distances.  A 
"Devonshire    mile"   is   notoriously   a   long  one    in  the 


INTRODUCTION  XIX 

opinion  of  a  rustic  informant,  though  it  is  not  likely  to 
err  on  this  side  as  calculated  for  posting  charges.  Some- 
times, then,  our  reckoning  has  been  a  little  hard  to  make 
accurate  ;  while  we  often  suppose  or  advise  the  reader  to 
take  a  route  on  which  he  may  be  much  tempted  to  stray 
aside,  to  linger,  even  to  turn  back  for  a  moment,  so  that 
his  progress  cannot  be  timed  with  the  precision  of  an 
ordnance  surveyor.  When  we  speak  of  "  an  hour's  walk," 
a  rate  of  three  miles  or  so  is  in  mind.  "  A  mile  or  so  " 
— "about  six  miles,"  is  enough  for  practical  purposes 
when  hurry  is  the  last  thing  to  be  thought  of ;  and  he 
would  be  a  monster  in  tourist  shape  who  would  hurry 
over  a  county  like  Devon. 

The  pedestrian  who  has  leisure  and  enterprise  and  a 
taste  for  independent  exploration,  would  have  this  advan- 
tage, among  others — that  he  could  often  turn  aside  to 
search  out  nooks  quite  as  beautiful  as  many  more  cele- 
brated, which  want  of  space,  or  ignorance  on  our  part,  or 
their  distance  from  main  lines  of  travel,  may  have  caused 
us  to  pass  over  unnoticed,  and  to  which,  accordingly,  we 
can  only  offer  most  regretful  apologies  for  a  neglect  that, 
perhaps,  will  make  them  all  the  more  dear  to  the  choice 
few  who  keep  their  secrets. 


EAST  DEVON 


r  Trull 


^om 


Wellington 


iampford   W^"'"9ton^l 


^eauchampf 


Ashilf 
[CuHand 


Black 
Down 


Dumesivetli 


yarcqmbe 


Upottery] 


^Broadhembury   f  o^mpdon  ff/StoYland^ 


5STA. 

"Chard 

JAbpy. 

CHARD  JUn'stA. 


Hembury^ 
iFort 


Glttishai 


HillQ^ 


Chardstoch 


Widwofthy 
-mway 


Ottery 
St.  Mary 

Tipton 
'".Johns 


Colyt^^\^^' 


fAsh  Ho. 
'^Musbury 


'Sidbury^ 


iegis 
^Btanscombe^ 


ksdown 
yHlir 
SeaitonW/ Ax  mouth. 


Rou&cfon 
Landslip 


Pee 
EAp  mjoLE\'l^^^  Sidmouth 
^^Jf^PyHigh  Peak 
Ladram  Cove 


Beef  Head     "^f? 


RTO/I  ST  A. 


Scale  of  Miles 

23456 


IValker  &■  Botif-all  sc. 


LONDON    TO    EXETER 

From  London  to  Exeter  the  direct  road  (168  miles)  goes 
by  Staines,  Basingstoke,  Andover,  Stonehenge,  Winca^iton, 
Chard,  and  Honiton,  which  route  may  be  varied  by  visiting 
other  places,  not  far  out  of  the  way,  as  shown  in  our 
Guides  to  Hants,  Somerset,  and  Dorset.  Only  a  mile  or 
so  longer,  for  instance,  is  the  way  by  Salisbury  and  Yeovil, 
going  off  the  first  route  at  Basingstoke  or  Aniiover  and 
coming  into  it  again  at  Chard  ;  and  it  makes  a  difference  of 
no  more  than  three  or  four  miles  to  go  round  by  Taunton  and 
Wellington,  following  the  G.  W.  R.  line  from  Langport  in 
the  heart  of  Somerset,  for  which  one  turns  off  beyond 
Sparkford.  A  still  longer  round  (194  miles)  is  by  Bath  and 
Bristol  to  Taunton,  whence  the  road  to  Exeter  accompanies 
the  G.  W.  R.,  while  the  direct  way  keeps  near  the 
L.  &  S.-W.  R.  In  coming  from  Taunton,  indeed,  beyond 
Cullompton  (see  below)  cyclists  find  their  best  road  in  turn- 
ing from  the  course  of  the  Culm  to  that  of  the  Clyst,  where 
they  strike  the  L,  &S.-W.  R.  route;  but  the  more  picturesque 
way  is  to  hold  down  the  Culm  to  the  Exe  valley. 

By  rail  to  Exeter,  we  have  these  two  main  routes,  the 
Great  Western  from  Paddington,  and  the  London  and  South- 
western from  Waterloo,  whose  express  trains  have  rivalled 
each  other  in  speed.  The  G.  W.  R.,  hitherto  handicapped 
by  its  bend  through  Bristol,  is  now  cutting  off  some  score  of 
miles  from  this  roundabout  route  to  Exeter ;  and  after  the 
completion  of  its  new  line  through  the  heart  of  Somerset, 
may  be  expected  to  give  the  shortest  journey. 

1 


LONDON  TO  EXETER 


GREAT  WESTERN  ROUTE  TO  EXETER 

Taunton  is  the  great  junction  of  diverging  lines,  whence 
the  main  route  holds  on  up  the  valley  of  the  Tone,  near  the 
foot  of  the  Black  Down  Hills  to  the  south.  Towards  the 
farther  end  of  this  ridge,  above  the  town  of  Wellington,  the 
Wellington  Monument  stands  conspicuous,  looking  far  over 
Devonshire,  which  we  enter  through  the  tunnel  under  White 
Ball  Hill,  before  reaching  the  next  station,  Burlescomhe. 

The  first  Devonshire  station  of  consequence  is  Tiverton 
Junction,  where  two  branches  go  off,  right  to  Tiverton  (for 
which  see  p.  43),  left  to  Hemyock,  at  the  back  of  the  Black 
Down  ridge,  to  which  the  leisurely  tourist  might  make  a 
pleasant  digression  of  7  miles. 

Culm  Valley  Line 

[Tiverton  Junction  to  Hemyock  (7  m.). — This  little 
branch  line  continues  along  the  valley  of  the  Culm,  through 
pleasant  pastoral  scenery,  and  by  the  stations  of  Uffculme 
and  Oulmstock.  At  the  former  village  the  Church  displays 
a  considerable  variety  of  Gothic  architecture. 

Hemyock  (Hotels :  Gulm  Valley,  Star),  or  Hemmick,  stands 
agreeably  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Black  Down  Hills. 
Here  are  some  ivy-shrouded  ruins,  and  the  grassy  moat  of  a 
Roman  castle,  which  played  its.  part  in  our  own  civil  wars. 
The  gateway  is  in  good  condition.  Hemyock  Church 
exhibits  Early  English  and  Decorated  characteristics.  Good 
trout-fishing  may  be  had  at  Culm  Bridge.  The  Culm,  if  we 
mistake  not,  is  the  stream  running  through  Mr.  Blackmore's 
novel  Perlycross,  which,  as  yet,  however,  has  not  done  for 
this  quiet  neighbourhood  what  Lorna  Doone  did  for 
Exmoor. 

From  Hemyock  may  be  taken  a  pleasant  walk  of  half  a  dozen 
miles  across  the  Black  Down  Hills  and  by  the  Wellington  Monu- 
ment to  Wellington  on  the  other  side.  Southwards,  a  walk  of 
near  twice  as  far  would  bring  us  to  Honiton  by  Dunkeswell  (p. 
13)  through  fine  hilly  country. 

The  ridge  of  the  Somerset  Black  Down  Hills  rises  to  about  1000 
feet,  and  runs  for  10  miles  from  Castle  Neroche  at  the  eastern  end 


THE   CULM    VALLEY  3 

to  Sampford  Point,  beyond  the  Wellington  Monument.  Reached 
from  either  side,  this  western  buttress,  or  the  lofty  monument, 
gives  a  grand  Pisgali  view  over  Devon,  northwards  towards  its 
cliff-edged  coast,  westward  across  the  valley  of  the  Exe  to  the 
heights  of  Dartmoor,  and  on  Exmoor  to  the  north.] 

On  the  main  route,  the  next  station  is  CuUompton 
(Hotels  :  White  Hart,  Victoria  Temperance,  etc.),  a  quiet  old 
town  of  4000  people,  once  flourishing  on  wool,  and  now  on 
the  papermaking  that  has  become  a  chief  industry  here- 
abouts. Its  broad  street  shows  some  good  old  houses  ;  and 
it  has  a  notable  church  worth  stopping  to  see.  We  are  here 
13  miles  from  Exeter,  16  from  Crediton  (p.  46),  and  11  from 
Honiton  (p.  11). 

The  Church,  its  red  tower  a  conspicuous  object  from  the  rail- 
way, dates  in  the  main  from  the  loth  century;  but  one  John 
Lane,  a  CuUompton  clothier,  built,  1528,  the  elegant  Decorated 
chapel  on  the  south  side.  The  roof  is  elaborately  enriched  with 
fan  tracery.  The  screen,  decorated  with  the  vine  leaf,  is  exquisitely 
carved  ;  and  very  curious  indeed  is  the  portion  that  remains  of 
the  oaken  Calvary,  preserving  its  accessories  of  skulls  and  bones, 
and  the  mortice  wherein  the  rood  was  formerly  inserted.  When 
the  building  was  restored  in  1849,  the  plaster  was  removed  from 
singular  frescoes  ;  amongst  others,  St.  Clara  in  a  robe  of  saffron, 
St.  Michael  weighing  human  spirits  in  his  balance,  St.  Christopher 
surrounded  by  quaint  fishes,  and  such  mermaids  as  Tennyson 
never  dreamed  of. 

About  two  miles  north-east  of  CuUompton  is  Bradfield  Hall,  a 
fine  old  Elizabethan  mansion,  with  gables  and  mullioned  windows, 
that  has  been  well  restored,  keeping  its  original  oaken  roof. 

Hele  comes  next,  on  the  sparkling  Culm,  a  place  of  note 
chiefly  for  its  large  paper-mill,  but  its  station  serves  the 
ancient  borough  of  Bradninch,  a  long  mile  on  the 
CuUompton  road,  now  come  down  to  a  large  village,  pre- 
serving a  composite  Church  with  an  elaborate  screen,  and, 
in  what  was  once  the  Guildhall,  some  relics  of  its  former 
state,  while  the  manor-house  has  some  carved  oak  rooms. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  railway,  farther  off  (4  miles),  lies 
Plymtree,  a  pretty  village,  whose  Perpendicular  church  has 
also  a  renowned  screen  with  painted  panels,  undefaced  statues 
of  the  Virgin  and  Infant  Jesus  niched  in  the  tower,  and 
other  ancient  features. 


4  LONDON    TO    EXETER 

Near  the  next  station,  Silverton,  is  Silverton  Park,  where 
the  Earl  of  Egremont  began  an  ambitious  classical  mansion, 
which  was  never  finished,  and  whose  many  columns  and 
empty  chambers  would  have  cost  a  great  fortune  to  complete 
according  to  the  design  ;  so,  after  making  a  laughing-stock 
for  more  than  half  a  century,  it  has  now  been  demolished  by 
means  of  dynamite.  A  little  farther  on,  to  the  left,  is 
Killerton  Park,  its  mansion  girt  about  with  patriarchal  trees. 
Above  this,  overlooking  the  Culm  valley,  rises  Dolbury 
Camp,  for  whose  legendary  renown  see  p.  43. 

At  Stoke  Canon,  where  the  branch  from  Dulverton  (p. 
42)  comes  in,  we  are  near  Poltimore  Park,  a  fine  demesne, 
south  of  which  runs  the  high  road  from  Cullompton.  If 
Stoke  Canon  have  been  reached  by  the  road  through 
Bradninch,  there  is  hence  a  choice  of  hill  and  valley  roads 
to  Exeter  (4  miles),  the  former  giving  fine  views  (p,  36). 
The  railway  naturally  takes  the  latter  way,  now  leaving 
the  course  of  the  Culm  for  that  of  the  Exe,  along  which  it 
runs  into  Exeter  under  a  bank  of  woodland,  which,  up  to 
the  last,  hardly  suggests  to  the  traveller  his  approach  to  a 
large  city.  On  a  hillside  to  the  right  is  seen  Pynes,  the 
residence  of  the  Earl  of  Iddesleigh  (p.  37),  then  our  line 
meets  the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  coming  out  of  Exeter,  which,  as 
also  in  the  case  of  Plymouth,  these  rival  routes  enter  and 
leave  in  opposite  directions. 


THE  LONDON  AND  SOUTH-WESTERN  ROUTE 

This  line,  with  its  branches  to  the  sea-coast,  requires 
fuller  description,  that  will  delay  us  on  the  journey  to 
Exeter.  It  goes  through  Surrey,  the  north  side  of  Hants, 
and  the  south  of  Wilts  to  Salisbury,  the  chief  half-way 
station.  At  Semley  (station  for  Shaftesbury  on  the  heights 
above)  it  begins  to  cut  through  corners  of  Dorset;  then, 
some  miles  to  the  right,  one  may  catch  the  high-built  King 
Alfred's  Tower  on  the  hilly  edge  of  Somerset,  in  which 
county  mainly  lies  its  next  stage.  Beyond  Crewkerne  it  is 
guided  towards  Devonshire  by  the  windings  of  the  Axe,  a 


THE    AXE    VALLEY  ,  5 

word  for  water  that  so  often  recurs  here  and  elsewhere  in 
sucli  varied  forms — Exe,  Aix,  Usk,  Uisk,  whiskey,  etc.  On 
the  bank  of  the  river,  to  the  left  of  the  line,  is  seen  Ford 
Abbey,  which,  once  in  an  outlying  part  of  Devon,  is  now 
included  in  Dorset. 

Ford  Abbey  is  a  fine  monastic  foundation  of  the  12th  century 
converted  into  a  modern  dwelling-house.  The  present  buildings 
display  various  styles  of  architecture,  ranging  from  the  transition 
Norman  to  modern  classicalities,  but  they  form  a  fine  and  striking 
group ;  and  some  of  the  apartments  with  their  decorations, 
notably  the  famous  tapestiy  of  Raphael's  cartoons  presented  to 
the  owner  by  Queen  Anne,  are  among  the  sights  of  the  neighbour- 
hood, open  to  visitors  on  Thursdays  in  the  summer  months.  The 
oldest  part  is  the  Chapel  and  Monk's  Walk,  a  13th-century  cloister. 
The  Grecian  Porch  is  one  of  the  incongruities  of  Inigo  Jones,  the 
architect  employed  to  secularise  this  structure. 

Next  comes  a  short  branch  for  Chard,  through  which  we 
could  come  into  connection  with  the  G.  W.  K.  at  Taunton. 
Then,  still  following  the  green  valley  of  the  Axe,  we  reach 
the  first  Devonshire  town. 


AXMINSTER 

Hotels :  George,  Bell,  etc. 

This  town  stands  to  the  south  of  the  railway,  where  was 
once  a  British,  afterwards  a  Saxon  settlement ;  and  a  castle 
was  built  here  in  916  on  the  site  of  the  present  market- 
place. The  Minster  shows  a  curious  mixture  of  styles,  the 
greater  portion  of  the  fabric  being  of  the  reign  of  Richard 
II.  An  ancient  circular  font,  three  sedilia,  an  arched 
piscina  of  good  workmanship,  an  oak  pulpit  finely  carved, 
and  a  Saxon  doorway  at  the  east  end  of  the  south  aisle,  will 
repay  examination. 

The  carpet  manufacture,  which  once  made  the  name  of 
Axminster  a  household  word,  has  long  been  removed,  and  it 
is  now  a  quiet  little  borough  of  about  2500  inhabitants, 
interesting  to  the  tourist  chiefly  as  a  stopping-place  from 
which  excursions  might  be  made.  It  is  perhaps  best 
known  to  strangers   as    nearest   station   for   the   beautiful 


6  LONDON    TO    EXETER 

Dorset  harbour  of  Lyme  Regis  (5  miles).  Hitherto  the 
connection  with  Lyme,  as  with  its  neighbour  Gharmouth,  has 
been  by  an  omnibus  service  from  Axminster  Station  ;  but  a 
light  railway  is  now  in  progress  that  should  prove  a  great 
relief  to  horse-flesh  on  these  steep  roads.  But  Axminster 
lies  among  picturesque  hill  and  dale  scenery  that  makes  it 
worth  stopping  at  on  its  own  account.  The  Dorsetshire 
heights,  eastward,  are  particularly  alluring  to  the  pedestrian. 

The  valley  scenery  of  the  Axe  hereabouts  is  very  pleasing  in  the 
pastoral  style,  and  good  fishing  for  small  trout  can  be  had.  Its 
tributary,  the  Tart,  to  the  north  of  Axminster,  might  be  pleasantly 
explored  as  guide  northwards  to  Yarcombe,  near  another  edge  of 
the  county,  whence  one  can  pass  over  to  Upottery,  and  descend  the 
course  of  the  Otter  to  Honiton.  Without  going  so  far  up,  one  can 
cross  from  one  valley  to  the  other,  over  the  ridge  of  Stockland 
Hill,  that  at  one  point  rises  to  nearly  800  feet,  2  miles  east  of 
Stockland  village. 

The  direct  road  to  Honiton  (9  miles)  also  takes  an  airy 
course,  passing  to  the  north  of  Shute  Hill  (567  feet),  on  the 
south  side  of  which,  seen  from  the  railway  near  Seaton 
Junction,  lies  Shute  with  its  woods,  deer  park,  and  noble  old 
mansion  deserted  by  the  Pole  family,  whose  memorials  may 
be  seen  in  the  picturesque  church.  Sir  William  Pole  was 
the  well-known  Devon  antiquary,  whose  descendants  built 
themselves  a  new  home  on  an  adjoining  height.  Thence  by 
Wilmington  and  the  park  of  Widworthy  this  road  mounts  to 
over  700  feet  before  descending  from  Honiton  Hill  to 
Honiton  (p.  11).  Before  going  on,  however,  let  us  turn  aside 
to  Seaton  and  a  fine  stretch  of  the  coast. 


AXMINSTER  TO  SEATON 

The  road  (7  miles)  goes  out  down  the  east  side  of  the 
Axe,  on  whose  bank  are  passed  the  slight  remains  of  the 
Cistercian  Abbey  of  Newenham,  then  a  mile  farther  on  is 
Ashe  House,  birthplace  of  the  great  Duke  of  Marlborough, 
now  a  farm.  In  3  miles  comes  Musbury,  on  the  hill 
above  which  is  a  British  camp.  A  mile  beyond  we  have  a 
choice  of  routes.      One  may  keep  down  the  same  side  to 


SEATON  7 

AxmotLth,  which  has  a  church  with  a  good  Norman  door- 
way and  moulded  arch  ;  and  above  it  is  another  camp  on 
Hawkesdown  Hill.  The  names  of  the  inns  here  {Ship,  etc.) 
show  how  this  was  once  a  harbour,  but  now  it  is  nearly  a 
mile  to  the  actual  mouth  of  the  river,  by  a  road  which  may 
be  found  flooded  at  high  tide ;  then  a  toll  bridge  (Id.)  lets 
one  over  to  Seaton.  The  safer  way  is  to  cross  by  the  bridge, 
about  2  miles  back,  into  that  tiniest  of  boroughs,  Colyford, 
from  whose  post-office  there  goes  a  winding  road  down  to 
Seaton. 

The  railway  branch  turns  off  the  main  line  at  Seaton 
Junction  (Shute  Arms  Hotel),  and  goes  on  the  right  of  the 
Axe,  presently  swollen  by  the  Coly  coming  down  from  the 
wooded  heights  that  form  such  inviting  landscapes  west- 
wards. The  chief  place  on  the  way  is  Colyton,  whose 
hotel,  Golcomhe  Castle,  is  named  from  the  camp -crowned 
height  to  the  north.  The  little  town  lies  pleasantly  situated 
at  the  confluence  of  the  streams,  and  has  a  stately  church, 
with  a  stone  screen  and  an  altar  tomb  said  to  commemorate 
the  beautiful  Margaret  Courtenay,  daughter  of  the  Earl  of 
Courtenay  by  Princess  Katherine  (daughter  of  Edward  IV.). 

The  only  other  station  is  Colyford  farther  on ;  then  the 
branch  ends  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  some  half  mile  east 
of  Seaton. 

SEATON 

Hotels  :  Beach,  Clarence,  Pole  Arms,  Lion,  Gould's  Temperance. 

This  pleasant  bathing  place  lies  on  an  opening  among 
the  hills  near  the  Axe  estuary,  consisting  of  an  old  village 
running  inland,  and  of  an  esplanade  along  the  great  bar  of 
shingle  on  a  curve  between  the  White  Cliff  to  the  west,  and 
the  Haven  Cliff  across  the  river.  Huge  letters  along  the 
front  of  the  esplanade  proclaim  Seaton  as  the  Eoman 
Moridunum,  a  pretension  not  undisputed.  There  is  good 
bathing,  not  so  safe  near  the  river  mouth,  where  bass-fish- 
ing may  sometimes  be  had.  A  spacious  golf  ground  on  the 
Haven  Cliff  is  among  the  attractions  of  a  place  that  makes 
an  excellent  playground  for  children  ;  and  the  only  thing 


8  LONDON    TO    EXETER 

to  be  said  against  Seaton  is  that  the  cliffs  westward  are  too 
much  taken  up  by  private  residences. 

Kound  these  cliffs,  or  by  road  westward  (about  1^  mile),  is 
reached  Beer,  which  seems  to  be  growing  faster  than  Seaton 
itself  of  late  years,  and  has  a  fine  modern  church,  in  con- 
trast with  the  old  one  of  its  neighbour.  Once  a  nest  of 
smugglers,  as  one  may  know  from  the  curious  memoirs  of 
John  Rattenbury,  the  "  Rob  Roy  of  the  West,"  Beer  is 
now  peacefully  occupied  in  the  lace-work  that  flourishes 
hereabouts.  Originally  one  long  street  dropping  through  a 
deep  combe,  it  is  extending  in  villas  and  lodging-houses  on 
higher  ground.  The  old  inns  (Dolphin,  Anchor,  etc.)  have 
long  been  known  to  artists,  drawn  here  by  the  broken 
beauties  of  Beer  Head,  a  mile  to  the  south,  the  chief 
promontory  between  the  Lyme  and  the  Exe,  and  the  western 
end  of  the  chalk  cliffs.  On  its  top  is  a  wild  common  most 
picturesquely  broken  into  chalky  ruins  at  the  edge,  where 
rough  paths  lead  down  to  a  fringe  of  landscape  and  a  shore 
strewn  with  huge  fragments.  Round  the  cliff,  a  coast- 
guard path  may  be  followed  to  Branscombe  Mouth,  a 
mile  farther  on,  from  which  one  winds  up  to  the  scattered 
village  of  Branscombe,  with  its  old  church  in  a  hollow.  It 
was  near  this  that  Telford  proposed  to  begin  a  ship  canal 
to  Bridgewater  Bay,  so  as  to  unite  the  Bristol  and  British 
Channels. 

The  road  from  Beer  to  Branscombe  takes  a  shorter  course 
inland  over  the  heights.  About  a  mile  behind  Beer  is  a 
famous  quarry  of  white  freestone,  whose  long  underground 
ramifications  may  be  explored  by  lantern  light,  not  without 
a  guide.  This  used  to  be  lit  up  once  a  year  by  a  host  of 
candles ;  but  such  a  spectacle  appears  to  have  gone  out  of 
favour. 

Besides  scrambles  on  Beer  Head,  longer  walks  may  be  taken  to 
the  hills  and  camps  inland,  such  as  Blackbury  Castle  (600  feet), 
rising  to  the  right  of  the  main  Exeter  road,  that  passes  a  good 
mile  north  of  Seaton,  and  to  which  a  by-road  leads  from  Beer  by 
Bovey  House,  an  old  manor  with  some  notable  features.  But  the 
whole  of  this  up  and  down  country  we  must  pass  over  lightly, 
giving  more  attention  to  the  stretches  of  the  coast  eastward  and 
westward  from  Seaton. 


THE    LANDSLIPS  9 

Lyme  Regis  by  the  Landslips. — To  the  east  of  the 
Axe,  7  miles  of  Devonshire  bring  us  to  Lyme  Regis,  on 
the  edge  of  Dorset.  The  inland  country  is  picturesquely 
broken  by  hills  and  woods  ;  but  the  glory  of  this  corner  is 
the  coast-line,  where,  beyond  Culverhole  Point,  2  miles  east 
of  Seaton,  the  slipping  of  chalk  and  lias  cliffs  has  formed  a 
confused  wilderness,  the  most  beautiful  scene  of  the  kind  in 
England,  not  excepting  even  the  Isle  of  Wight  Undercliff. 

The  road  to  Lyme  runs  back  to  Axmouth  (p.  7),  whence  it 
loops  up  the  valley  in  two  branches,  of  which  the  left  is  the 
prettier,  but  the  right  should  be  taken  if  we  wish  to  gain  the 
Landslips  from  behind.  After  crossing  the  bridge  at  Seaton  (Id. 
toll),  the  third  gate  on  the  right  (formally  closed  once  a  year)  opens 
a  footway  up  to  the  Coastguard  Station,  whence  a  path  may  be 
taken  along  the  cliffs,  or  one  may  gain  them  from  below.  This 
way  through  the  mazes  of  tumbled  ground  is  often  rough  and 
hard  to  find,  and  the  less  adventurous  course  is  to  drive  or  walk 
to  Bowlands  Farm  on  the  road  above,  thiough  which  a  charge  of 
6d.  is  made  for  descending  to  the  Dowlands  Landslip,  so  called 
par  excellence,  but  the  whole  coast  onwards  to  Lyme  has  long  been 
liable  to  subside  from  its  treacherous  foundations.  The  shore  may 
also  be  gained  from  the  ancient  farm-house  of  Bindon,  nearer 
Seaton,  where  also  a  small  toll  (3d.)  is  levied  for  access.  Horses 
are  put  up  at  either  farm  ;  cycles  also  might  be  stabled. 

The  way  through  Dowlands  leads  down  to  a  dome-like  knoll  ot 
chalk,  crowned  by  a  pole,  marking  a  central  point  of  the  devasta- 
tion produced  by  the  great  landslip  of  1839,  when  the  chalk  and 
sand  of  the  upper  cliff  slipped  away  from  the  lias  below,  forming 
a  rugged  chaos,  now  overgrown  by  grass  and  brushwood,  as  beauti- 
ful as  wild.  Nearly  a  mile  of  the  coast  then  sank  from  100  to  200 
feet.  If  we  come  down  through  Dowlands,  some  of  the  finest 
effects  of  natural  ruin  must  be  looked  for  towards  Seaton.  Hence 
one  can  walk  on  to  Lyme  by  the  shore,  the  path  making  labyrin- 
thine windings  through  overarching  thickets.  Beyond  the  next 
opening  in  the  cliffs,  a  coastguard  flagstaff  may  be  steeply  climbed 
to  for  a  view  over  this  scene  of  tangled  greenery  ;  but  caution  is 
suggested  by  a  monument  to  a  victim  of  such  slippery  slopes.  A 
narrow  track  runs  on  below,  at  times  almost  buried  in  bowery 
shade.  In  a  tiny  ravine,  where  steps  lead  down  to  the  sea,  we 
find  the  chalk  changing  to  sand.  Near  this,  the  Chapel  Hocks 
enclose  a  secluded  hollow  in  which  the  nonconformists  of  Lyme 
stealthily  met  for  worship  under  Charles  11.  By  the  Pinney  Cliffs, 
we  come  to  the  last  stretch  of  the  maze,  beneath  unstable  heights, 
always  ready  to  crumble,  to  be  undermined  by  springs  or  washed 
away  by  the  waves,  where  the  romantic  confusion  of  old  date  has 


10  LONDON    TO    EXETER 

been  still  more  picturesquely  confounded  through  fresh  landslips. 
The  broken  and  bosky  charms  of  this  wilderness  were  well  known 
to  Lyme  visitors  in  the  days  of  Jane  Austen  and  of  Miss  Mitford. 
A  large  green  mound,  the  "Giant's  Grave,"  and  an  opening  known 
as  "Donkey  Green,"  are  prominent  spots  among  the  rank  copses, 
brightened  by  wild  flowers,  blossoms,  and  berries.  On  the  height 
above  will  be  seen  a  column  of  rock,  known  as  the  "Chimney," 
to  which  one  might  scramble  up  for  a  wider  outlook,  or  spend 
hours  in  rambling  through  the  hillocks  and  thickets  below,  not 
without  places  where  refreshments  may  be  had  in  the  season.  By 
a  wicket  gate  opposite  the  buildings  of  St.  Michael's  College,  one 
gets  out  on  the  road  leading  down  into  Lyme,  or  can  descend  the 
rough  slope  to  the  shore  near  its  famous  "  Cobb,"  the  breakwater 
at  this  end  of  the  town. 

It  is  difficult  to  calculate  one's  distance  in  miles  over  such 
broken  ground,  or  even  to  keep  a  path  that  has  so  many  divagations. 
To  trace  a  way  all  through  the  landslips  would  be  a  matter  of  some 
hours  ;  but  at  more  than  one  point  the  road  on  the  cliffs  behind 
may  be  gained.  In  walking  by  the  road,  beyond  Dowlands,  a 
corner  is  cut  off  by  taking  the  drive  between  the  red-roofed  lodges 
of  Rousdon  (Sir  W.  Peek),  passing  the  beautiful  new  Church  with 
its  sweet  chimes,  the  many-gabled  mansion  that,  when  mellowed 
by  time,  should  make  a  good  specimen  of  Victorian  architecture, 
imitating  an  earlier  style,  and  an  observatory,  in  which  the  late 
baronet  took  much  interest.  The  rest  of  this  demesne  is  private. 
On  the  height  above  Lyme  Regis,  we  leave  Devon,  within  which 
county  lies  Uplsone,  on  the  Axminster  road  ;  but  the  town  itself, 
nestling  beneath  its  blue  lias  cliffs  at  the  mouth  of  the  Lyme,  is  in 
Dorset,  while  we  understand  it  has  an  ambition  to  go  over  to 
Devon. 

Seaton  to  Sidmouth. — The  road  from  Seaton  to  Sid- 
mouth  is  called  about  9  miles  ;  but  the  pedestrian  who 
follows  the  coast  must  look  on  that  figure  as  a  mere  rateable 
value,  and  will  find  the  journey  nearly  doubled  in  exertion 
by  trying  ups  and  downs  upon  cliffs  between  400  and  600 
feet  high,  broken  by  beautifully  overgrown  combes.  For 
part  of  the  way,  he  may  turn  back  to  the  Exeter  high  road 
running  farther  inland.  If  he  count  on  keeping  the  rough 
paths  near  the  edge  of  the  cliffs,  he  must  have  a  sharp  eye 
and  stout  breeches,  not  to  speak  of  nailed  boots,  while 
walking  on  the  shingle  below  is  still  more  arduous. 

The  projection  of  Beer  Head  makes  a  mile  or  two  more  than  the 
road  behind  to  Branscomhe  (4  miles).  A  middle  course  is  to  turn  up 
from  Beer  to  the  quarries,  just  beyond  which  a  lane  begins  a  path 


HONITON  1 1 

over  the  hill — there  are  said  to  be  seven  such  paths,  but  this  one 
will  be  easiest  found  and  followed.  Behind  the  churchyard  at 
Branscombe  another  path  leads  up  through  a  wood  to  knolls  and 
bluffs  of  turf  on  which  are  a  camp  and  a  group  of  tumuli.  Here 
one  may  descend  by  a  lovely  path  and  through  some  potato 
plantings  to  the  shore,  or  hold  on  along  the  Coxe  Cliff  to  Weston 
Mouth,  a  ravine  half  choked  up  by  greenery,  where  one  is  not  three 
miles  from  Sidmouth — but  such  miles  !  The  next  stage  is  by 
Dunscombe  Cliff's,  over  which  we  descend  into  another  hollow  at 
the  head  of  which  the  Church  of  Salcombc  Regis  beckons  us  to  the 
road  ;  else  one  more  steep  climb  puts  us  on  the  height  above  Sid- 
mouth (p.  17),  where  the  chalk  cliffs  of  Beer  have  now  changed  to 
the  deep  red  sandstone  characteristic  of  this  side  of  Devon.  Of 
these  cliffs  we  shall  have  more  to  say  under  Sidmouth. 

Railway  Route,  continued. — From  Seaton  Junction,  the 
railway  goes  on  to  Honiton^  the  chief  town  of  this  district. 


HONITON 

Hotels  :  Dolphin,  Angd. 

Backed  by  an  amphitheatre  of  wooded  heights  and  lying 
in  the  valley  of  the  Otter,  Honiton  is  one  of  the  most  agree- 
able of  Devonshire  towns,  which  deserves  more  attention 
from  tourists.  It  has  a  name  for  the  prosaic  manufacture  of 
butter,  as  well  as  for  the  delicate  handmade  lace,  of  which 
Queen  Victoria's  bridal  robe  was  fashioned.  The  lace  manu- 
facture was  introduced  here  by  the  Flemings  in  the  reign  of 
Elizabeth,  and  has  extended  to  several  of  the  neighbouring 
villages.  If  all  stories  are  true,  this  industry  seems 
threatened  by  the  School  Boards,  for  it  is  said  to  require  a 
pliant  dexterity  of  finger  to  be  gained  only  in  childhood  ; 
but  the  specimens  to  be  seen  at  Mrs.  Fowler's,  in  the  High 
Street,  do  not  show  any  signs  of  decadence. 

Honiton  has  two  churches — St.  PauVs,  built  in  1837, 
containing  an  original  painting,  "The  Descent  from  the 
Cross,"  by  W.  Salter,  K.A.,  a  native  artist  ;  and  the  old 
parish  church  of  St.  Michael,  on  high  ground  south  of  the 
town,  partly  restored,  preserving  a  good  screen,  and  at  the 
entrance    the    black    marble    tomb    of    Thomas    Marwood, 


12  LONDON   TO   EXETER 

physician  to  Queen  Elizabeth,  who  practised  so  successfully 
on  himself  that  he  reached  the  age  of  105.  There  is  an  old 
GramTnar  School  near  the  new  church,  which  marks  the 
centre  of  the  long  broad  street,  such  a  lively  scene  on  its 
Saturday  market-days.  Fishing  can  be  had,  and  otter- 
hunting  is  among  the  sports  of  the  district. 

The  town  consists  mainly  of  that  one  thoroughfare,  at 
the  top  of  which  unite  the  roads  from  Taunton  and  Ax- 
minster.  A  little  below,  to  the  right,  lies  the  course  of  the 
Otter.  To  the  left,  just  beyond  St.  Paul's  Church,  goes  off  a 
cross  street  leading  to  St.  Michael's  past  the  station.  This 
church  stands  beautifully  on  high  ground  ;  and  from  its 
pretty  churchyard  there  is  a  fine  view  over  the  town,  the 
valley  of  the  Otter,  and  on  the  wooded  heights  behind, 
where  are  conspicuous  the  bold  head  of  St.  Gyres  Hill 
opposite,  Tracey  House  upon  its  side,  the  ridge  running 
along  westward  to  Hemhury  Fort  (p.  13),  and  north-eastward 
the  clump-crowned  Dumpton  Hill  (p.  13),  that  makes  such 
a  prominent  landmark.  West  of  the  church  rises  Gittisham 
Hill,  over  which  goes  the  road  to  Sidmouth  (9  miles),  turning 
off  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town.  Eastward  is  the  moorland 
ridge  of  Honiton  Hill,  by  which  mounts  the  Axminster  road. 
Bound  the  corner  of  this,  a  short  2  miles  out,  stands  a 
tower,  from  which  another  fine  prospect  may  be  had  to  the 
south. 

From  such  points  of  vantage  is  well  seen  what  finely 
varied  country  invites  exploration  about  Honiton.  We  will 
suggest  a  few  excursions  to  the  pedestrian,  who  can  also  be 
recommended  to  the  high-running  roads  for  Sidmouth  and 
Axminster,  while  swift  cyclists  may  rather  admire  the  main 
highway  to  Exeter,  beyond  Honiton  taking  a  straight  stretch 
of  Eoman  road. 

The  road  going  past  the  old  church  southwards  leads  along 
Farway  Hill,  its  crest  dotted  with  the  tumuli  that,  like  old  camps, 
are  such  common  features  of  the  heights  hereabouts.  About  2^ 
miles  out,  near  the  highest  point  (over  800  feet),  one  might  descend 
on  the  left  to  Farway,  a  little  village  beyond  which,  by  Netherton 
Hall,  a  way  up  another  lofty  ridge  leads  back  to  the  road  over 
Farway  Hill.  Had  one  kept  on  this  road  southwards,  half  a 
dozen  miles  would  bring  one  into  the  high  road  from  Lyme  to 


AROUND    HONITON  13 

Exeter,  about  half-way  between  Seaton  and  Sidmouth  on  either 
hand. 

St.  Gyres  Hill,  the  wooded  head  overlooking  the  town  beyond 
the  river,  may  be  reached  by  a  way  that  would  give  a  good  sample 
of  this  green  country.  Go  out  by  the  road  for  Combe  Raleigh, 
crossing  the  river  a  little  above  a  bathing-place  (to  be  gained  by 
an  alley  near  the  Dolphin  and  over  a  couple  of  fields).  Beyond 
the  bridge,  by  the  first  cottage  at  corner  of  a  wood,  take  a  lane 
(left)  and  almost  at  once  a  path  over  a  stile  (right).  Keep  up  the 
fields  in  same  direction  till  a  drive  is  crossed,  within  which,  a  few 
yards  on  the  right,  another  stile  lets  one  into  the  field  beyond. 
Here  turn  up  to  the  hill,  trending  right  for  the  stile  at  the 
further  corner,  beyond  which  the  way  is  plain.  From  outside 
the  wood  there  is  a  good  view  over  Honiton  and  the  heights  to 
the  north  and  east. 

Through  the  wood  and  a  little  along  the  ridge  a  way  might  be 
found  down  to  the  Cullompton  road  on  the  south  side.  Or  at  the 
bottom  of  the  field  outside  the  wood  a  rough  lane  descends  to 
Combe  Raleigh,  whose  thickly  ivied  Church  tower  is  very  visible; 
and  thence  a  pleasant  half  hour's  road  leads  back  to  Honiton. 

From  the  mill  beyond  Combe  Raleigh  one  might  make  a  short 
cut  to  Dumpton  Hill  (854  feet),  which,  crowned  by  a  camp  and  a 
clump  of  trees,  makes  such  a  conspicuous  landmark  far  around. 
The  road  leading  to  it  (under  three  miles)  goes  off"  from  the  high 
road  to  Taunton,  a  little  beyond  the  top  of  the  town,  crossing  the 
Otter  at  Langford  Bridge  ;  then  Ford  Bridge,  a  mile  higher  up, 
gives  a  change  of  way  for  return  to  the  Taunton  road. 

The  road  to  Cullompton  (page  3,  11  miles)  turns  right  from  the 
main  street,  a  little  way  beyond  the  Dolphin,  near  the  post-oflSce. 
It  crosses  the  Otter  below  the  woods  of  Tracy  House,  going  on  to 
Awliscomhe  under  the  slopes  of  St.  Cyres  Hill  ;  then,  4  miles  out, 
beside  the  lofty  road  comes  Hembury  Fort  (665  feet),  the  most 
notable  of  the  ancient  strongholds  in  this  district,  if  not  the  best 
specimen  of  a  Roman  camp  in  Devon.  It  is  oval  in  shape,  divided 
into  two  parts  by  an  earthwork,  and  enclosed  by  a  triple  vallum. 
Some  antiquaries  have  identified  it  with  the  Moridunum  of  An- 
toninus ;  but  this  Roman  station  seems  more  probably  to  have 
been  High  Peak,  near  Sidmouth,  while  Seaton  also  puts  in  a  claim 
by  the  gigantic  inscription  in  front  of  its  esplanade. 

The  by-road  southwards  from  Hembury  Fort  would  lead,  in 
about  3  miles,  by  Fay  Hembury  to  Sidmouth  Junction,  where  train 
could  be  taken  back  to  Honiton  or  on  to  Exeter.  Northwards  a 
way  leads  over  the  heights  to  Dunkeswell  (about  4  miles),  where 
are  some  remains  of  the  ancient  Abbey.     Thence  one  could  return 


14  LONDON    TO    EXETER 

to  Honiton  by  Combe  Raleigh  in  some  half-dozen  miles,  or  hold  on 
northwards  about  as  far  to  the  railway  at  Hemyock  (p.  2). 

Railway  Route,  continued. — From  Honiton  the  L.  & 
S.-W.  K.  keeps  westward,  at  first  accompanying  the  high  road 
to  Exeter  (17  miles),  which  presently  crosses  it,  taking  a 
straighter  line  to  the  south,  through  Bochheare  and  Honiton 
Glyst,  to  enter  the  city  over  Heavitree  Hill  (p.  36),  where 
tram  lines  become  a  guide  to  the  High  Street.  The  first 
station,  some  4  miles  along  the  railway,  is  Sidmouth  Junction^ 
whence  a  branch  goes  southwards  with  the  Otter.  But 
before  turning  aside  for  this  part  of  the  coast,  we  may  as 
well  hold  on  the  dozen  miles  to  Exeter.  Whimple  is  the 
next  station,  beside  which  is  seen  a  specimen  of  the  goodly 
churches  that  are  the  rule  in  this  neighbourhood.  We  now 
pass  from  the  valley  of  the  Otter  to  that  of  the  Clyst,  which 
falls  into  the  Exe  below  Topsham,  after  threading  a  string 
of  villages  that  bear  its  surname.  Broad  Clyst  is  nearly 
2  miles  north  of  its  station,  from  which  Honiton  Clyst  lies 
almost  as  far  south.  Pinhoe,  the  next  station,  a  mile  south 
of  Poltimore  Park  (p.  4),  is  almost  in  the  suburbs  of  Exeter. 
The  main  line  now  joins  the  branch  from  Exmouth,  and 
under  Eougemont  enters  Queen  Street  Station,  the  principal 
one  of  this  railway,  from  which  its  trains  for  Plymouth  go 
on  to  St.  David's,  and  there  make  a  junction  with  those  of 
the  G.  W.  E.  (p.  23). 


TO  SIDMOUTH  AND  BUDLEIGH  SALTERTON 

Let  us  now  return  to  Sidmouth  Junction,  a  dozen  miles 
short  of  Exeter.  Here  goes  off  a  line  to  Sidmouth,  branch- 
ing on  the  way  for  Budleigh  Salterton,  which  latter  branch  is 
being  continued  to  Exmouth  to  meet  there  the  L.  &  S.-W.  R 
rail  from  Exeter,  so  that,  when  completed,  it  will  form  a 
loop  line  along  a  very  charming  part  of  the  coast. 

In  3  miles  is  reached  a  small  town  of  no  small 
interest. 


t 


OTTERY    ST.    MARY  15 

OTTERY  ST.  MARY 

Hotels :  King's  Aiins,  London  etc. 

This  town  has  twice  suffered  from  great  fires,  so  cannot 
be  expected  to  show  much  antiquity.  Silk-spinning  and 
the  manufacture  of  lace  have  taken  the  place  of  the  old 
staple  of  Ottery  trade,  the  serge  manufacture.  It  is  a 
pleasant  place  of  4000  inhabitants,  amid  attractive  scenery, 
which  would  tempt  those  who  find  the  world  too  much 
with  them  at  Sidmouth,  in  its  summer  season.  Its  own 
chief  attraction  is  the  ancient  Church  originally  founded  by 
Edward  the  Confessor,  and  bestowed  upon  the  Abbey  of 
Kouen ;  rebuilt  by  Bishop  Bronscombe,  1257-1280;  com- 
pleted, and  converted  into  a  collegiate  church  by  Bishop 
Grandison,  about  1340.  One  of  its  priests  was  the  eccentric 
Alexander  Barclay,  translator  of  The  Ship  of  Fools  (d.  1552). 
It  was  thoroughly  restored  in  1850,  so  as  to  afford  the 
architectural  student  a  worthy  subject  for  study. 

The  Church  of  Saints  Maiy  and  Edward  recalls  the  plan  of 
Exeter  Cathedral,  particularly  in  the  arrangement  of  the  towers  at 
the  end  of  the  transepts.  The  West  Front,  with  its  three  stories, 
seems  to  have  been  imitated  from  Exeter,  though  much  more 
simple.  The  doorway  is  deeply  recessed,  and  surmounted  by  a 
five-light  window.  A  niche  in  the  gable  exhibits  a  figure  of  the 
Virgin  Mary,  co-patron  of  the  church.  The  South  Tower  is  Early 
English  ;  its  string  course  terminates  in  fantastic  corbel  heads, 
and  in  each  face  are  inserted  three  lancets.  The  North  Tower  is 
crowned  by  a  spire.  The  Choir  extends  three  bays  into  the  Nave, 
and  is  paved  with  tiles.  The  Lady  Chapel  is  in  the  Decorated 
style  of  Edward  III.'s  reign,  while  the  Dorset  Chapel,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Nave,  is  late  Perpendicular  ;  it  contains  a  fine  western 
window  of  six  lights,  representing  the  Transfiguration.  It  has  also 
a  richly-groined  roof,  and  exhibits  the  arms  of  Bishops  Courtenay 
(1478-1487)  and  Vesey  (1519).  Over  each  of  the  arches,  supported 
by  the  nave-columns,  is  a  niche  for  a  statue.  The  ceiling  of  the 
Nave  is  very  rich.  In  the  chantry  aisles  the  windows  are  by 
Hardman,  from  Pugin's  designs,  and  represent  the  Majesty  of  God 
and  Christ  on  the  Cross.  The  modern  Font  will  be  admired  for  its 
costly  marbles.  The  stone  reredos  has  been  efi'ectively  restored. 
The  canopied  niches  in  the  rear  of  the  altar  appear  to  have  been 
intended  for  pictures.     Brackets  for  images  are  placed  on  either 


16  LONDON    TO    EXETER 

side,  and  niches  for  statuary  fill  the  arch  above.  Five  misereres 
have  been  replaced  on  each  side  of  the  choir,  separated  by  a  low 
oaken  screen  from  the  transept.  Round  an  old  wooden  altar  is 
laid  an  elaborate  pavement,  and  a  vacant  bay  before  the  sanctuary 
has  been  protected  by  a  screen  formed  out  of  a  14th  century 
parclose.  Remark  the  stone  sedilia,  and  the  gallery  of  stone,  with 
its  pillars  of  Purbeck  marble,  which  divides  the  Lady  Chapel  from 
the  Ambulatory. 

Memorials  to  be  noticed  as  those  of  Sir  Otho  de  Grandison,  d. 
1360,  brother  of  the  bishop-architect,  and  Beatrix  Malmaynes,  his 
wife,  each  reposing  on  an  altar -tomb  under  richly  -  decorated 
canopies  ;  Archdeacon  Northwood,  an  incised  stone  despoiled  of 
its  brass  ;  and  John  Cooke  of  Thome,  d.  1632,  an  armed  soldier 
grasping  his  sword.  The  latter  is  said  to  have  been  murdered  by 
a  younger  brother,  and  his  statue,  therefore,  steps  down  from  its 
niche  at  midnight  and  stalks  through  the  silent  church.  In  the 
southern  transept  is  the  finely-sculptured  tomb  of  Lady  Coleridge. 

The  churchyard  contains  several  monuments  of  the 
Coleridge  family,  amongst  them  a  granite  cross,  12  feet  high, 
erected  in  1877  in  memory  of  Sir  J.  T.  Coleridge.  His  grand- 
father, father  of  Coleridge  the  poet,  who  was  born  here,  first 
came  to  Ottery  as  Vicar,  and  master  of  the  Grammar  School. 
To  the  west  of  the  churchyard  is  a  seat  of  this  family,  now 
illustrious  both  in  law  and  literature,  a  red-brick  mansion  in 
great  part  rebuilt,  but  retaining  a  room  said  to  have  been 
occupied  by  Cromwell.  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  spent  part  of 
his  youth  at  Ottery,  as  did  Thackeray,  who  has  celebrated  it 
as  "  Clavering  St.  Mary,"  the  vicinity  being  clearly  the  scene 
of  the  early  part  of  Pendennis.  "  Fairoaks  "  and  "  Clavering 
Park  "  are  still  identified  by  the  banks  of  the  "  Brawl,"  that 
had  S.  T.  Coleridge  also  to  sing  its  praises.  A  sand  cave  in 
the  bank  above  the  Otter,  "  The  Pixie's  Parlour,"  is  pointed 
out  as  a  haunt  of  the  boy  genius  nursed  in  this  "  varied 
scene  of  wood,  hill,  vale,  and  sparkling  brook,"  where  so 
many  pleasant  rambles  may  be  taken.  Anglers,  as  well  as 
landscape -lovers,  would  find  themselves  at  home  on  the 
course  of  the  Otter  ;  and  the  coast,  with  its  fine  red  clifi's, 
is  within  a  couple  of  hours'  walk.  Permission  to  fish  the 
best  parts  of  the  Otter  is  not  given  indiscriminately  ;  but 
for  about  a  mile  above  the  sea  the  rive 
hotels  have  tickets  for  preserved  waters. 


SIDMOUTH  17 

On  the  top  of  Rockbeare  Hill  (500  feet)  l^  mile  west 
to  the  left  of  the  road  to  Exeter  (1 1  miles),  Mr.  Nation  has 
now  made  public,  through  the  National  Trust,  a  park 
commanding  fine  views. 

Two  or  three  miles  south  of  Ottery  the  Salterton  branch 
goes  off  to  the  right  at  Tipton  St.  John's.  The  Sidmouth 
branch  now  leaves  the  valley  of  the  Otter,  passing  over  high 
ground  by  Harpford  TFood,  then  descending  to  its  terminus, 
a  mile  behind  the  sea.  A  shady  road  leads  on  to  the 
Esplanade,  with  a  turn  left  for  the  main  part  of  the  town. 


SIDMOUTH 

Hotels  :  Knowle,  in  its  own  grounds  ;  Bedford,  York,  on  the  Esplanade  ; 
London,  in  High  Street.— Boarding  Houses,  The  Glen,  Norton  Garth. 

Before  Torquay  attained  its  present  note,  Sidmouth  was 
a  fashionable  watering-place  of  the  west.  The  "  Glen,"  at 
the  west  end  of  the  esplanade,  was  then  occupied  by  the 
Duke  of  Kent  and  his  family  ;  and  a  fine  stained-glass 
window  will  be  found  in  the  Church,  given  by  Queen 
Victoria  in  memory  of  her  father,  who  died  here,  as  the 
result  of  a  chill  caught  in  walking  over  the  hills  by  which 
the  town  is  shut  in.  After  falling  behind  its  rivals,  Sid- 
mouth seems  once  more  to  be  coming  into  favour  again, 
especially  with  permanent  residents.  It  is  now  a  cheerful 
little  place  of  over  3000  inhabitants,  which  has  added  to  its 
attractions  Medical  Baths  for  the  treatment  of  heart  disease, 
rheumatism,  gout,  etc.  ;  and  of  late  years  its  merits  as  a 
winter  resort  have  been  much  more  recognised. 

The  climate  of  Sidmouth  is  mild,  equable,  and  soothing, 
recommended  for  weak  chests  and  throats.  The  total  rainfall 
seems  to  be  less  than  in  other  parts  of  South  Devon.  It  enjoys  a 
high  measure  of  winter  sunshine,  with  hardly  any  fog.  In 
summer,  statistics  go  to  show  it  cooler  than  might  be  expected  ; 
yet  a  hot  day  must  be  oppressively  felt  at  the  foot  of  its  glowing 
cliffs.  The  drainage  and  water  supply  are,  on  the  whole,  well 
attended  to  ;  but  some  houses  are  still  supplied  by  wells,  as  to 
which  caution  is  advisable. 

The  bathing  is  not  very  good,  the  shore  being  rather  rough, 

2 


18  LONDON    TO    EXETER 

where  occasionally  valuable  stones  may  be  picked  up.  There  are 
bathing  machines  and  sands  in  front  of  the  esplanade.  Swimmers 
prefer  to  go  round  the  corner  to  the  bay  lying  west ;  when  the 
point  is  cut  off  by  the  tide,  it  may  be  reached  by  going  up  the 
road  on  to  Peak  Hill,  and  taking  the  first  path  to  the  left.  Here, 
at  high  tide,  one  can  quickly  plunge  into  deep  water  off  a  bank  of 
shingle  ;  and  a  stretch  of  sand  is  exposed  as  the  tide  goes  down. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  Sid,  also,  men  can  bathe  from  the  banked- 
up  beach. 

The  town  lies  in  the  centre  of  a  bay,  running  back  into 
a  horse-shoe  valley  behind,  and  filling  up  with  its  front  a 
break  in  the  high  cliffs  of  red  sandstone  crowned  by  green 
pastures.  The  front  is  protected  by  a  wall,  forming  an 
esplanade  some  half-mile  long;  but  Sidmouth  has  never 
been  able  to  build  a  pier  or  harbour,  for  all  its  costly  efforts 
to  bridle  the  winter  waves.  At  the  east  end  of  the  sea  front 
the  little  Sid,  gathered  into  a  pool,  filters  its  way  through  a 
bar  of  shingle  thrown  up  by  the  tide,  now  and  again,  after 
heavy  rains,  bursting  out  more  impetuously.  Inland,  along 
the  valley  of  this  stream,  are  pleasant  level  roads  and  field- 
paths  ;  but  on  either  side,  the  Salcomhe  and  Peak  cliffs  must 
be  gained  by  a  steep  ascent  of  about  500  feet,  which  will  be 
well  repaid.  Once  on  these  heights,  however,  one  finds 
stretches  of  fairly  even  ground,  where  it  is  hardly  possible 
to  go  wrong  for  airy  and  picturesque  rambles. 

The  Parish  Church  was  restored  in  1860.  It  is  adorned 
with  a  handsome  reredos,  a  hexagonal  pulpit  of  Devonshire 
marble,  and  much  good  coloured  glass,  including  the  west 
window  to  the  memory  of  the  Duke  of  Kent.  The  other 
church.  All  Saints',  covered  by  ivy,  that  gives  it  a  fictitiously 
venerable  air,  stands  back  towards  the  station. 

In  summer  cricket  specially  flourishes  at  Sidmouth  ;  and 
the  cricket  field  by  the  shore  attracts  many  spectators.  The 
archery  meetings  here,  also,  are  still  well  attended,  as  is  the 
lawn  tennis  tournament.  Golf  has  made  its  addition  to 
these  pastimes,  and  though  the  links,  lying  a  little  way  back 
from  the  town,  are  not  very  large  as  yet,  they  appear  to  be 
well  off  for  hazards.  Boating  and  sea-fishing  are  to  be  had, 
under  some  little  difficulty,  indeed,  for  want  of  a  harbour. 
The  Sid^  in  its  small  way,  and  the  Otter^  not  far  off,  are  good 


ABOUT    SIDMOUTH  19 

trout  streams.  Then  the  geologist,  botanist,  and  concholo- 
gist  will  find  plenty  of  interest  about  this  neighbourhood, 
where  no  one  need  be  at  a  loss  for  excursions.  The  best 
views  are  naturally  to  be  found  on  the  cliffs.  Looking  sea- 
ward, the  eye  embraces  the  whole  of  the  coast  which  borders 
the  great  bay  of  Devon  and  Dorset,  beginning  at  Star  Point 
on  the  west,  and  stretching  as  far  as  Portland  on  the  east. 
On  the  downs  behind  will  be  found  several  barrows,  standing 
stones,  and  ancient  camps  as  goals  for  excursions.  In  every 
direction,  the  pedestrian  has  a  choice  of  wanderings  over  a 
country  where  the  highroads  are  often  as  attractive  as  the 
byeways.  In  summer,  coach  trips  run  to  Seaton,  Branscombe, 
Budleigh  Salterton,  Exmouth,  Exeter,  and  other  points. 
The  immediate  surroundings  may  be  outlined  thus  : — 

Salcombe  is  the  peaked  cliff  (500  feet)  to  the  east,  reached  by  a 
path  from  the  little  bridge  near  the  mouth  of  the  Sid.  Behind 
this  rises  still  higher  Salcombe  Down,  which  commands  all  round 
views  reaching  to  Torquay  and  Berry  Head.  Thence  the  pedestrian 
may  expatiate  on  an  amphitheatre  of  open  heights  shutting  in  the 
valley  of  the  Sid ;  or  in  the  first  opening  eastwards  he  may  descend 
to  Salcombe  Regis  (2  miles  from  Sidmouth  by  road),  whose  Church 
has  a  Norman  Tower  and  Early  English  Chancel.  This  place  must 
not  be  confounded  with  Salcombe  at  the  extreme  south  of  the 
county. 

The  way  on  to  Seaton  has  been  shown,  p.  10. 

Sidbury  lies  3  miles  up  the  valley,  reached  on  foot  by  the 
heights  on  either  side,  or  by  pleasant  field-paths  along  the  little 
river.  The  Church  has  some  Norman  remains  and  interesting 
memorials.  To  the  west  is  a  large  kite-shaped  Camp,  Sidbury 
Castle  (600  feet),  gained  by  leaving  the  Sidbury  road  a  little  beyond 
Sidford,  1^  mile  ahove  Sidmouth. 

To  the  west  of  Sidbury  Castle  rises  the  higher  Beacon  Hill,  and 
beyond  this,  above  the  Otter  Valley,  Harpford  Wood,  goals  of 
walks  to  the  north-west  of  Sidmouth,  that  in  4  miles  would  bring 
one  to  Tipton  St.  John  Station  (p.  17).  Beyond  this,  Ottery  St. 
Mary  (6  miles)  is  sure  to  be  visited  for  its  grand  Church  (p.  15). 

Muttersmoor  (650  feet)  is  another  fine  height  to  the  west  of  the 
town,  for  which  one  goes  up  behind  the  Roman  Catholic  convent, 
above  the  Glen,  then  turning  left  may  come  down  to  the  Peak 
Road  near  the  coast.  A  new  driving  road  has  been  made  here 
that  gives  fine  views. 

Peak  Hill  (over  600  feet),  prolonging  the  Muttersmoor  ridge, 


20  LONDON    TO   EXETER 

shuts  in  Sidmouth  to  the  west,  crossed  by  a  road  ascending  steeply 
at  this  end  of  the  town.  Where  this  road  gets  clear  of  houses  and 
grounds,  one  may  turn  off  to  the  cliff  and  descend  by  steps  to  the 
shore.  Holding  along  the  cliff  edge  for  a  mile  or  so,  one  comes  to 
High  Peak,  an  abrupt  elevation  topped  by  an  ancient  camp,  whence 
there  is  an  extensive  view.  The  cliffs  are  here  composed  of  sand, 
partly  calcareous,  and  tinted  with  a  ruddy  hue  by  oxide  of  iron. 
They  now  turn  southwards  towards  the  mouth  of  the  Otter,  and 
lose  their  boldness  ;  but  a  short  mile  beyond  the  High  Peak  comes 
what  may  be  called  the  lion  of  Sidmouth,  Ladram  Bay,  remarkable 
for  its  picturesque  arches  and  caves  hollowed  out  in  the  red 
sandstone  by  the  waves.  This  point  makes  a  favourite  boating 
excursion.  Continuing  the  coast  line  on  foot  to  Otterton  Point, 
one  is  brought  up  by  the  mouth  of  the  Otter,  but  may  cross  by  a 
bridge  half  a  mile  above  it,  unless  a  chance  of  ferrying  across 
presents  itself. 

To  Budleigh  Salterton. — By  rail,  we  have  to  go  back  to 
Tipton  St.  John's,  whence  the  Salterton  branch  holds  down 
the  right  side  of  the  Otter  that  bars  our  way  along  the 
coast.  The  way -stations  are  Newton  Poppleford,  opposite 
Harpford  Wood  (p.  19),  then  East  Budleigh  behind  Budleigh 
Salterton.  At  Newton  Poppleford  one  can  cross  the  river 
for  a  roundabout  road  to  Salterton.  The  shortest  way  (6  to 
7  miles)  is  by  road  over  Peak  Hill  and  down  to  Otterton, 
which  may  also  be  reached  by  the  cliff  path.  Here 
pedestrians  could  hold  down  the  river  to  a  wooden  bridge, 
which  brings  them  close  to  Budleigh  Salterton. 

Otterton  is  a  considerable  village  on  a  low  wooded  cliff 
overhanging  the  Otter.  Close  to  the  rebuilt  Church  bits  of 
ruinous  wall  mark  the  site  of  Otterton  Priory.  Beyond  the 
river,  the  road  becomes  less  attractive  except  for  Bicton  on 
the  farther  side,  to  the  right  of  the  way  on  to  Salterton. 

Bicton  Lodge,  the  seat  of  the  Rolles,  is  famous  for  its  arboretum 
and  horticulture.  The  grounds  are  open  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays 
in  summer,  tickets  being  supplied  through  the  libraries  at  Sid- 
mouth, Budleigh  Salterton,  and  Exmouth  at  a  charge  of  one 
shilling,  or  sixpence  each  for  members  of  a  party. 

Bicton  Church  is  a  modern  edifice  of  some  architectural  pre- 
tensions, erected  at  the  expense  of  Lady  Rolle.  A  portion  of  the 
ancient  sanctuary  has  been  converted  into  a  family  mausoleum, 
and  connected  by  a  corridor  with  the  gray  tower  that  has  escaped 
the  restorer's  hand.  At  an  intersection  of  roads  stands  an  old  Cross, 
presenting  upon  its  brick  pedestal  some  scriptural  quotations. 


BUDLEIGH    SALTERTON  21 

The  direct  road  to  Budleigh  Salterton,  wliich  diverges  to 
the  left  a  little  beyond  the  Otterton  Bridge,  passes  by  East 
Budleigh  {The  Rolle  Arms),  nearly  2  miles  inland  from 
Budleigh  Salterton.  In  the  Church  is  the  pew  of  the 
Raleigh  family,  dated  1537  ;  and  a  grave  slab  inlaid  in  the 
pavement  of  the  nave  commemorates  Joan  Drake,  the  first 
wife  of  famous  Sir  Walter's  father.  Raleigh  was  born  in 
1552  at  Hayes  Barton,  a  picturesque  Elizabethan  farmhouse, 
to  be  seen  a  mile  west. 

BUDLEIGH  SALTERTON 

Hotels :  Rolle  Arms,  Feathers,  etc. 

This  is  a  village  de  plaisance  of  some  distinction.  It  lies 
in  and  about  an  opening  of  the  coast,  a  sparkling  brook, 
spanned  by  numerous  rustic  bridges,  enlivening  the  garden- 
girt  villas,  where  myrtles  and  hydrangeas  bloom  lustily  in 
the  open  air  to  attest  a  genial  climate.  The  place  is 
sheltered  in  winter,  and  claims  to  have  a  lower  rainfall  than 
most  parts  of  South  Devon.  The  beach  is  famous  for  its 
pebbles,  beautifully  marked,  and  so  smooth  that  artists  may 
use  them  to  paint  on  ;  but  this  feature  of  the  shore  is  not 
equally  admired  by  bathers.  Budleigh  Salterton  is  certainly 
a  place  to  be  seen,  while  those  who  know  it  best  would 
perhaps  prefer  to  have  as  little  as  possible  said  about  it  in 
a  guide-book.  The  railway  cannot  fail  to  make  a  great 
difference ;  but  as  yet  the  place  retains  its  rustic  simplicity, 
albeit  its  cottages  of  gentility  now  begin  to  be  neighboured 
by  dwellings  of  a  more  conventional  type.  The  chief 
ornament  is  a  handsome  new  Church,  built  by  the  Rolle 
family,  who  are  beneficently  autocratic  hereabouts.  There 
are  Baths,  Public  Rooms,  Golf  Links,  and  all  that  can  be 
expected  of  a  rising  resort,  shut  in  by  bold  cliflfs  and  up- 
land commons. 

Behind  the  coast,  miles  of  heathy  heights,  dotted  by  dark 
clumps,  rise  between  the  valleys  of  the  Otter  and  the  Clyst.  Wood- 
bury Common  is  a  general  name  for  this  fine  upland,  portions  of 
which  are  also  called  from  the  surrounding  villages.  The  only 
drawback  to  it  as  a  rambling  ground  is  that  houses  of  refreshment 


22  LONDON    TO    EXETER 

are  not  encouraged  on  the  great  Rolle  estate.  A  prominent  point 
is  Woodbury  Castle  (nearly  600  feet),  an  ancient  camp  about  6 
miles  from  the  sea,  whence  one  may  find  ways  down  to  Ottery  St. 
Mary  (p.  15),  to  SidmoiUh  (p.  17),  to  Lympstone  (p.  39),  or  Ex- 
mouth  (p.  40),  to  Woodbury  and  Woodbury  Road  Station  laeyond  it 
(p.  39),  or  2  miles  north  one  could  strike  into  the  highroad  coming 
through  Newton  Poppleford  (p.  20),  about  7  miles  out  of  Exeter. 
The  Black  Hill  above  Lympstone  is  another  fine  view-point  ;  but 
from  many  heights  here  one  gets  grand  prospects  over  the  mouth 
of  the  Exe  to  the  Haldon  Hills  beyond  (p.  48). 

A  mile  westward,  along  the  cliffs,  one  gains  the  flagstaff  on 
Beacon  Hill  (400  feet),  the  highest  point  of  the  coast  hereabouts, 
with  a  grand  outlook  laoth  landward  and  seaward.  Here  one  may 
turn  down  hj  Littleham  {\).  41)  to  the  Exmouth  Road,  or  hold 
round  the  coast  for  a  longer  and  sometimes  rather  rough  path 
which  follows  the  cliffs  to  within  a  mile  of  Exmouth. 

The  Exmouth  road  (5  miles)  goes  more  inland,  but  has 
woodland  charms  of  its  own.  At  present  the  gap  between 
Salterton  and  Exmouth  Stations  is  filled  by  an  omnibus, 
but  the  completion  of  the  line  will,  as  already  mentioned, 
form  a  loop  round  this  corner  of  the  coast. 

At  Exmouth  (p.  40)  we  are  within  the  limits  of  easy 
excursions  from  Exeter,  where  our  headquarters  may  now 
be  fixed. 


PLAN  OF  EXETER 


St.  David's  Church. 
Victoria  Hall. 
Rougemont  Hotel. 
Institute  for  the  Blind. 
General  Post-Offlce.  | 

Higher  Market.  I 

Guildhall.  | 

St.  Mary  Arches  Church.  I 
St.  Olave's  Church.  | 

AllhaUows  on  the  Walls  [ 

Church. 
Lower  Market  and  Corn 

E)Kcliange. 


ITalker  GfBoutallsc 

12.  Cast.. Ml  H..use. 

No.  24. 

Trinity  Church. 

1:J.  Xew  Loudon  Hotel. 

..    2.5. 

St.  John's  Church. 

14.  Electricity  Works. 

„    26. 

at  Mary  Steps  Church. 

1.5.  St.  Sidwell-s  Church. 

,.    27. 

St.    Mary    Magdalene's 

16.  St.  Catharines    „ 

Church. 

17.  St.  Michaels       „ 

..    28. 

St.  Edmund's  Church. 

18.  St.  Paul's 

„    29. 

19.  St.  Stephen's       „ 

„    30. 

Bedford 

20.  St.  Lawrence's    „ 

,.    31. 

St.  Thomas's 

21.  AllhaUows 

..    32. 

St.  Petroe's 

22.  St.  Martin's 

..   :«. 

St.  Mary  Major     .. 

23.  R.  Catholic 

..    34. 

Eniiiianuel 

EXETER 


Hotels:  Pople's  New  London,  oflF  High  Street ;  Rougemont,'Q,neen  Street,  opposite 
South- Western  Station  ;  Royal  Clarence,  Cathedral  Yard  ;  Queen's,  Queen 
Street ;  Globe,  Cathedral  Yard ;  Half  Moon,  High  Street.  Among  the 
smaller  hotels  may  be  mentioned  the  Bude  and  White  Lion,  Sidwell  Street; 
Elmfield  and  Railway,  close  to  St.  David's  Station  ;  and  City  Commercial 
(Temperance)  opposite  Queen  Street  Station,  also  Osborne  (Temperance) 
between  the  stations. 

Railway  Stations  :  Queen  Street— London  and  South-Western.  St.  David's— 
G.  W.  and  L.  &  S.-W.,  half  a  mile  away.  St.  Thomas's  (stopping  place 
G.  W.  only  for  South  Devon  and  Cornwall),  across  the  river. 

The  approach  from  London  by  the  G.  W.  R.  is  more  picturesque ;  but  the 
L.  &  S.-W.  R.  main  station  lands  one  nearer  the  heart  of  the  city,  while  it 
also  carries  passengers  to  the  G.  W.  R.  station  at  St.  David's, 

Cab  fares :  To  most  parts  of  the  centre  from  the  station,  Is.  ;  Is.  6d.  over  a 
mile  ;  2s.  over  1^  mile. 

The  city  of  Exeter,  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  England, 
with  a  population  not  far  short  of  40,000,  though  no  longer 
a  seat  of  any  special  trade,  has,  as  capital  of  this  important 
county  and  centre  of  a  rich  agricultural  district,  a  con- 
siderable stir  of  business  to  encroach  on  its  cathedral  dignity. 
It  is  finely  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Exe,  whence 
the  lower  part  of  the  city  rises  to  the  plateau  of  the  higher 
by  a  steep  slope,  broken  in  the  centre  by  bare  sandstone 
rock.  From  the  colour  of  this  rock  the  castle  which  stands 
upon  it  derived  its  name — "  Kougemont," — and  the  general 
redness  of  soil  which  pervades  all  the  country  round  Exeter 
gives  it  a  distinguishing  character  of  its  own  among  the 
other  large  towns  of  England.  Even  the  red  walls  and 
creeper-clad  front  of  the  Jail  (above  Queen  Street  Station) 
have  an  inviting  air  not  common  in  such  institutions. 

The  city  itself  retains  many  memorials  of  its  antiquity, 
23 


24  EXETER 

notably  in  and  about  the  High  Street,  which  makes  its  back- 
bone from  north-east  to  south-west.  The  heights  around  are 
taken  up  by  modern  mansions,  villas  and  spreading  suburbs, 
where  the  richness  of  the  foliage  and  the  "  tumbledown  oip 
hills  and  dales  "  supply  a  picturesque  setting. 

History  of  Exeter. — The  slope  of  a  hill  washed  by  such  a  river, 
naturally  invited  a  Celtic  settlement,  which  was  named  Caer  Isc^ 
the  Fort  on  the  Waters.  In  turn  this  came  to  be  occupied  by  the 
Romans,  who  threw  up  earthworks,  and  made  it  one  of  their 
stipendiary  cities,  changing  its  name  to  Isca  Damnoniorum,  which 
began  to  flourish  through  its  neighbourhood  to  the  Dartmoor  tin- 
mines.  Then  after  undergoing  various  vicissitudes  in  the  early 
years  of  Saxon  supremacy,  the  town  was  more  firmly  settled  by 
Athelstan  (about  927),  who  protected  it  with  walls,  established  an 
abbey,  and  maybe  regarded  as  the  founder  of  Exeter.  It  was 
ravaged  on  two  or  three  occasions  by  the  Danes,  but,  nevertheless, 
grew  so  strong  and  prosperous  that  Edward  the  Confessor,  in  1044, 
removed  thither  the  episcopal  see,  which  for  some  centuries  had 
been  established  at  Crediton. 

At  the  Norman  conquest,  Exeter  distinguished  itself  by  its 
resolute  defence  against  King  William.  Its  inhabitants,  says 
Ordericus  Yitalis,  cherished  a  deadly  hatred  towards  their 
insolent  invaders,  so  the  siege  of  Exeter,  in  the  autumn  of  1067, 
made  one  of  the  most  spirited  scenes  in  the  history  of  the 
Conquest.  Had  the  other  great  English  towns  resisted  the 
invaders  with  the  same  intrepidity,  it  may  be  that  England  would 
never  have  been  Norman.  And,  after  all,  the  proud  city  fell 
through  the  treason  of  foes  within,  not  the  valour  of  her  enemies 
without.  During  the  siege  forty-eight  houses  were  shattered  into 
ruins ;  and  with  their  materials  the  Normans  built  a  castle, 
possibly  upon  the  site  of  the  Romano-Saxon  stronghold.  Its 
custody  was  entrusted  to  Baldwin,  son  of  Gilbert  de  Brionne, 
appointed  vicecomes  of  Devonshire. 

The  devotion  shown  to  the  Saxon  kings  came  to  be  transferred 
to  their  conquerors,  and  in  the  motto  Semper  Fidelis  Exeter  has 
long  boasted  its  loyalty  to  the  crown,  while  bearing  its  share  of 
the  sufferings  caused  by  disputed  succession.  During  the  wars 
which  disturbed  the  reign  of  Stephen,  Exeter  took  the  Empress 
Matilda's  side,  and  the  Earl  of  Devon,  a  nephew  of  the  vicecomes, 
garrisoned  the  castle  in  her  name.  The  king  marched  against  it, 
besieged  it  for  two  months  (1136),  and  starved  the  inhabitants 
into  surrender ;  but  Matilda  remained  so  great  a  favourite  with 
the  men  of  Exeter  that  for  centuries  afterwards  an  annual  festival 
was  held  in  commemoration  of  her. 

Rougemont  was  visited  by  Richard  III.  (September  8,   1483) 
who  connected  it  with  a  warning  of  his  destined  end — 


HISTORY    OF    EXETER  25 

"  When  last  I  was  at  Exeter 
The  mayor  in  courtesy  shew'd  me  the  castle, 
And  call'd  it  Rouge-Mont :  at  which  name  I  started 
Because  a  bard  of  Ireland  told  me  once, 
I  should  not  live  long  after  I  saw  Richmond." 

The  city  was  besieged  by  Perkin  Warbeck  and  his  adherents  in 
1497  ;  and  again,  in  1549,  by  the  Catholic  insurgents,  during  the 
"Great  Devonshire  Commotion,"  which  resulted  from  Edward 
VI. 's  changes  in  ritual.  The  opening  of  the  Ship  Canal,  in  1563, 
led  to  Exeter's  development  as  a  trading  place  and  the  increase  of 
its  wealth.  At  the  time  of  the  Armada,  this  city  did  its  part  in 
contributing  men  and  ships  to  resist  the  would-be  invaders. 

When  the  Civil  War  broke  out,  the  Earl  of  Stamford  seized 
upon  Exeter  for  the  Parliament,  but  his  defeat  in  May  1643  opened 
the  gates  to  Prince  Maurice,  after  an  eight  months'  siege.  ' '  The 
Faithful  City"  remained  in  the  possession  of  the  royalists  for  three 
years,  and  the  queen  here  gave  birth  to  the  Princess  Henrietta, 
afterwards  the  Duchess  of  Orleans.  Her  picture  is  in  the  Guild- 
hall, presented  to  the  city  by  her  brother,  Charles  II.  In  April 
1646  the  city  was  captured  by  General  Fairfax's  Parliamentary 
array,  the  castle  being  dismantled,  and  the  fortifications  demolished. 

The  next  great  event  in  the  history  of  Exeter  was  the 
triumphant  entry  of  William  of  Orange,  November  9,  1688.  Since 
then,  like  other  English  cities,  Exeter  has  known  none  but 
"  victories  of  peace."  Its  municipal  records,  arranged  and  indexed 
by  Mr.  Stuart  Moore,  form  a  remarkably  full  and  almost  unbroken 
series,  of  great  value  in  illustrating  the  social  as  well  as  political 
history  of  the  country. 

Some  famous  natives  or  citizens  of  Exeter  may  be  mentioned  : 
Baldwin,  Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  1184-90  ;  Joseph  of  Exeter, 
a  Latin  poet  of  the  12  th  century  ;  Richard  Hooker,  the 
"judicious"  author  oi  The  Ecclesiastical  Polity  y:hich.  still  holds 
its  place  as  one  of  the  masterpieces  of  English  theological 
literature  ;  Sir  Thomas  Bodley,  1544-1612,  who  established  the 
Bodleian  Library  at  Oxford  ;  Simon  Ockley,  the  Oriental  scholar, 
born  1675  ;  Tom  d'Urfey,^  1650-1723,  dramatist  and  ballad  writer, 
immortalised  by  Steele  in  the  Tatler  (No.  67)  ;  Eustace  Budgell, 
1685-1737,  a  contributor  to  the  Spectator,  satirised  by  Pope; 
William  Gandy,  the  portrait-painter,  d.  1729,  and  buried  in  St. 
Paul's  Church,  Exeter  ;  William  Jackson,  1730,  the  composer  of 
many  exquisite  chants,  madrigals,  and  glees,  and  for  many  years 
the  cathedral  organist ;  and  Matthew  Lock,  musician,  composer  of 
the  music  for  "Macbeth."  Among  its  bishops  have  been:  Fox, 
the  founder  of  Corpus  Christi  Coll.,  Oxon. ;  Miles  Coverdale,  the 
translator  of  the  Bible  ;  Gauden,  the  chaplain  of  Charles  I.,  and 
the  supposed  author  of  the  Eikon  Basilike  ;  and  Bishop  Jonathan 
Trelawney,  to  whose  rescue,    at  the  trial  of  the  Seven  Bishops, 


2b  EXETER 

the   Cornish    miners    made    ready  to  hasten,    as    celebrated    in 
Hawker's  well-known  ballad  : — 

*  *  And  shall  Trelawney  die,  and  shall  Trelawney  die  ? 
Then  thirty  thousand  Cornish  men  will  know  the  reason  why  !  " 

Among  later  citizens  of  Exeter,  may  be  mentioned  Professor 
W.  K.  Clifford,  whose  career  was  prematurely  cut  short  before  he 
had  lived  down  the  proverbial  prejudice  against  a  prophet  in  his 
own  country. 

St.  David's  Station  lies  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  near 
the  transpontine  suburb  Exwick.  From  the  open  space  in 
front,  one  mounts  up  hill  to  the  right,  and  turns  left  by  the 
new  Church  of  St  David's,  then  by  the  park  called  Bury 
Meadow,  a  name  commemorating  a  visitation  of  plague  whose 
victims  were  interred  here.  To  the  right,  by  a  tall  memorial 
Clock  Tower  and  Drinking  Fountain,  Queen  Street  would  lead 
us  straight  to  High  Street,  near  the  Cathedral,  passing  the 
Queen  Street  Station  (L.  &  S.-W.  R.).  But  beyond  this  station, 
on  foot,  one  can  turn  up  left  through  the  gardens  of 
Northernhay,  and  by  the  walls  of  the  Castle,  coming  out  at 
the  head  of  High  Street,  near  the  Post  Office. 

Northernhay  is  a  small  but  beautiful  promenade  overlooking 
the  Queen  Street  Station,  its  shady  walks  ornamented  with  statues 
of  Sir  Thomas  Acland,  Lord  Iddesleigh,  and  other  local  worthies, 
also  E.  B.  Stephen's  "Deer  Stalker,"  considered  the  best  work  of 
this  local  sculptor. 

Rougemont  Castle  adjoins  Northernhay,  and  can  be  entered  at 
the  Queen  Street  end  of  the  grounds.  Passing  round  the  ungothic 
18th-century  buildings  of  the  Assize  Hall,  with  a  statue  of 
Earl  Fortescue  in  front,  from  the  enclosure  to  the  left  one  may 
ascend  the  walls  for  a  view  over  the  city,  as  far  as  the  trees  will 
allow. 

This  was  the  Norman  stronghold  within  which  John  Holland, 
Duke  of  Exeter,  built  a  stately  mansion  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VI. ; 
but  both  castle  and  mansion  have  fallen  into  decay.  The  most 
interesting  part  of  the  ruins  has  been  enclosed  in  the  grounds  of 
the  modern  Rougemont  Castle,  the  gate  of  which  is  passed  on  the 
right,  as  one  goes  on  down  to  High  Street.  On  Thursdays,  visitors 
are  admitted  to  these  private  grounds  for  a  better  view  of  what  the 
Castle  once  was.     The  Gateway  here  seems  the  oldest  portion. 

Beyond  the  Castle,  a  central  knot  of  ways  is  reached  at 


HIGH    STREET,    EXETER  27 

the  top  of  High  Street,  where  to  the  left  drops  the  road 
passing  over  Pennsylvania  Hill  to  Stoke  Canon  (p.  36)  ;  the 
main  thoroughfare  is  continued  by  the  tram-line  of  Sidwell 
Street  going  out  as  the  Black  Boy  Road  (which  is  the  Bath 
road)  towards  Pinhoe ;  and  to  the  right  by  Paris  Street 
branches  off  the  tram  to  Heavitree.  On  the  farther  side  of 
High  Street  here  opens  Southernhay,  occupied  by  private 
houses  of  old-fashioned  dignity,  which  might  be  called  the 
Bloomsbury  of  Exeter. 

Down  High  Street,  on  the  left,  is  at  once  reached  the  Post 
Office,  with  an  Arcade  beside  it.  Hereabouts  are  the  best 
shops.  Farther  down,  on  the  same  side,  come  the  Cathedral 
precincts,  into  which  we  might  turn  after  passing  the 
junction  of  Queen  Street ;  but  let  us  first  hold  on  through 
this  main  thoroughfare.  On  the  opposite  side  is  seen  the 
Guildhall,  recently  restored  under  the  reverent  eye  of  the 
Society  for  the  Protection  of  Ancient  Buildings. 

The  singular  projecting  front,  supported  by  semicircular  arches 
which  rest  on  coliiinns,  dates  from  1593.  The  principal  room  is 
63  feet  long  by  25  feet  broad.  The  walls  are  adorned  with  the 
scutcheons  of  the  city  mayors,  recorders,  incorporated  trades,  and 
benefactors.  Among  the  paintings  may  be  named  —  Henrietta 
Maria,  daughter  of  Charles  I.,  and  afterwards  Ducliess  of  Orleans, 
(born  at  Bedford  House,  in  this  city,  June  16,  1644),  by  Sir  Peter 
Lely ;  Monk,  Duke  of  Albemarle,  hj  Lely  ;  George  H.,  and  Lord 
Chief  -  Justice  Pratt  (Earl  Camden),  by  Hudson,  a  native  of 
Exeter  and  master  to  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  besides  portraits  of 
local  worthies,  A  marble  bust  of  Queen  Victoria  commemorates 
her  late  Majesty's  Jubilee. 

Behind  the  Guildhall  lie  the  Police  Offices,  believed 
appropriately  to  occupy  the  site  of  the  Roman  Prsetorium, 
and  the  Markets  opening  into  Queen  Street.  Beyond,  High 
Street  is  intersected  by  North  Street,  leading  over  an  iron 
bridge  to  St.  David's,  and  South  Street  which  becomes  the 
Topsham  Road.  The  thoroughfare,  now  losing  in  dignity, 
as  Fore  Street  and  Bridge  Street  drops  to  the  bridge,  over 
which,  through  the  suburb  of  St.  Thomas,  go  out  the  main 
road  westwards,  and  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Exe.  West 
Street  on  the  left,  leads  to  the  Quay^  where  one  can  ferry 
across  to  the  head  of  the  Ship  Canal. 


28  EXETER 


THE  CATHEDRAL 

Divine  Service  three  times  a  day  :  7.45  and  10.30  a.m.  and  3  p.m.  Additional 
on  Sundays :  evening  service,  7  p.m.  ;  and  morning  military  service, 
9.15  A.M.    Admission  to  choir  at  other  times,  6d. 

The  glory  and  boast  of  Exeter  is,  of  course,  its  Cathedral^ 
which,  though  inferior  in  design  and  size  to  many  of  our 
English  minsters,  is,  in  some  of  its  details,  superior  to  all. 
Its  western  front  is  admirable,  and  its  interior  almost  fault- 
less, the  symmetry  of  the  two  sides  being  notably  perfect. 
The  building  was  extensively  renovated  under  the  care  of 
the  late  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  K.A.,  at  a  cost  of  over  .£40,000. 

History. — According  to  Hoker,  a  Benedictine  monastery,  and 
two  other  religious  houses,  formerly  stood  within  the  present 
precincts  of  the  Cathedral,  and  there  is  little  doubt  but  that 
Edward  the  Confessor,  when  he  removed  the  episcopal  see  from 
Crediton  to  Exeter,  converted  the  monastery  into  a  cathedral- 
church,  if  he  did  not  erect  an  entirely  distinct  building.  Of  the 
Confessor's  foundation,  however,  no  remains  exist.  This 
Cathedral  dates  from  the  reign  of  Henry  I.,  when  it  was 
commenced  by  Bishop  Warelwast.  The  city  being  captured  and 
set  on  fire  by  Stephen,  the  Cathedral  was  so  severely  injured  that 
Bishop  Quivil  resolved,  in  the  reign  of  Edward  I. ,  to  erect  a  new 
building  on  a  more  splendid  scale.  He  lived  to  finish  the  Lady 
Chapel,  and  in  his  design  he  adapted  the  Norman  towers  of  Bishop 
Warelwast  as  transepts.  That  design,  with  sundry  modifications, 
was  carried  out  by  his  successors  for  more  than  a  century,  the  final 
touches  being  given  to  it  by  Bishop  Brantyngham.  Its  defect 
is  the  want  of  a  central  tower  to  give  dignity  and  majesty  to  the 
exterior,  which  seems  rather  heavy  without  being  imposing. 

The  Flan  of  the  Cathedral  is  cruciform  ;  the  arms,  however,  are 
very  short,  the  transepts  having  been  formed  out  of  the  towers. 
The  entire  length  of  the  building  (including  the  Lady  Chapel)  is 
408  feet ;  the  towers,  covered  with  blank  arcades  and  other 
Norman  details,  are  145  feet  high.  The  windows  are  in  the 
Decorated  style,  and  enriched  with  exquisite  tracery.  Between 
them  are  bold  flying  buttresses,  with  crocketed  pinnacles,  support- 
ing the  clerestory,  and  the  high-pitched  roof  is  effectively  orna- 
mented with  a  fleur-de-lis  crest. 

The  most  striking  portion  of  the  Exterior,  however,  is  the 
Western  Front,  which  consists  of  three  stories  : — the  basement,  an 
elaborate  screen,  with  a  central  doorway  and  a  smaller  one  on  each 
side.  The  entire  surface  is  occupied  with  canopied  niches,  each 
containing  a  statue.  The  second  story  recedes  slightly  and  con- 
tains the  noble  west  window  of  the  nave,  39  feet  by  27  feet,  filled 


THE    CATHEDRAL  29 

with  nine  lights,  trefoiled,  supporting  a  magnificent  rose  that  shows 
rich  geometrical  tracery.  On  each  side  are  Decorated  arcades,  and 
the  wall  is  supported  by  two  bold  flying  buttresses.  The  upper 
story,  receding  behind  the  second  story,  is  formed  by  the  gable  of 
the  nave,  and  adorned  by  a  window  smaller  than,  but  similar  to, 
that  which  we  have  already  described.  The  whole  of  the  front 
was  carefully  restored  in  1817.  Its  statuary  forms  a  remarkable 
gallery  of  "patriarchs,  sovereigns,  prelates,  nobles,  saints,  and 
angels."  Of  these  the  figures  of  the  English  kings  are,  perhaps, 
the  most  beautifully  executed.  Most  of  them,  however,  are  in  a 
very  dilapidated  condition.     There  are  in  all  sixty-seven  figures. 

The  Interior  is  divided  into. 

The  Nave,  with  north  and  south  aisles. 

North  and  South  Transepts  (St.  Paul's  and  St.  John's  Towers). 

The  Choir  and  Aisles. 

The  Chapels,  viz. — 

1.  St.  Paul's  (east  side  of  the  north  transept). 

2.  St.  John  the  Baptist's  (east  side  of  south  transept). 

4!  St.  George^s^  I  (north  of  choir,  in  this  order,  east- 

6.*  St.*  Mary  Magdalene's/     wards). 

6.  St.  James's   \ 

7.  St.  Saviour's  H south  of  choir,  in  this  order,  eastwards). 

8.  St.  Gabriel's] 

9.  The  Lady  Chapel. 

St.  Edmund's  Chapel,  of  much  earlier  date  than  the  Nave  itself, 

with  which  Bishop  Grandisson  connected  it,  is  now  used  as 

the  Consistory  Court  of  the  Bishop. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  generally  overlooked  by  visitors, 

is  situated  between  the  South  Transept  and  the  Chapter 

House.     It  appears  on  a  seal  attached  to  a  Chapter  deed  of 

1237,  and  is  unquestionably  of  very  early  date. 

The  Nave,  180  feet  long,  commenced  by  Bishop  Quivil  (1280- 

1291),  and  finished  and  vaulted  by  Bishop  Grandisson  (1328-69), 

is  celebrated  for  the  exquisite  enrichments  of  its  windows  ;  its  bold 

vaulted  roof;    the  shapely  clustered  columns  of  Purbeck  marble 

which  separate  it  from  the  aisles  ;  and  its  general  simplicity  and 

grandeur.     The  western  window  forms  a  conspicuous  feature.     The 

glass,  however,  is  not  good.      A  figure  of  St.  Peter,  the  patron 

saint  of  the  cathedral,  occupies  the  centre.    From  the  clerestory  on 

the  north  side  projects  the  curious  ''Minstrels'  Gallery,"  adorned 

with  well-wrought  figures  of  angels  playing  on  shawms  and  cithars, 

harp,   bagpipe,   organ,  trumpet,   and  tambourine — date,  reign  of 

Edward  III.     On  the  north  side  is  a  beautifully-sculptured  stone 

pulpit,    designed    by  Sir   Gilbert  Scott,    in    memory  of  Bishop 

Patteson,  murdered  in  the  South  Pacific  Islands  in  1871.      The 

Organ  is  one  of  the  finest  instruments  in  England.     It  was  built, 

in  1665,  by  John  Loosemore,  at  a  cost  of  £2000,  and  after  being 


30  EXETER 

improved  by  various  organ  builders,  was  remodelled  and  entirely 
rebuilt  in  1891.  Exeter  has  been  noted  for  the  excellence  of  its 
choral  service. 

The  Transepts  are  short  and  unimpressive.  In  the  south 
tower  hang  eleven  bells  ;  the  tenor,  weighing  7522  lbs.,  the 
gift  of  Bishop  Grandisson,  was  cracked  when  ringing  an  exultant 
peal  on  the  discovery  of  the  Gunpowder  Plot.  In  1676  it  was 
recast  by  Perdue,  who  also  recast  Great  Peter  of  Exeter  (in  the  north 
tower),  which  weighs  12,500  lbs.,  and  was  brought  from  Llandafi 
Cathedral  in  1484  by  Bishop  Courtenay. 

In  the  north  transept  is  a  curious  astronomical  clock,  temp. 
Edward  III.  The  upper  dial,  which  shows  the  minutes,  was 
added  in  1760.  The  lower  dial  is  divided  into  three  parts, — the 
earth  in  the  innermost  circle,  the  moon  in  the  middle,  and  the  sun 
in  the  outer  one.  The  moon,  blackened  on  one  side,  is  moved  by 
the  clockwork. 

The  triple-arched  Rood-screen,  separating  the  Nave  from  the 
Choir,  had  modern  additions  made  in  1819.  The  original  design 
and  workmanship  {temp.  Edward  II.)  are  excellent,  and  the  panels 
are  covered  with  a  remarkable  series  of  very  rude  and  very  ancient 
oil-paintings  on  stone,  of  singular  value  as  illustrations  of  early 
English  art.  They  represent— 1.  The  Creation  ;  2.  Adam  and 
Eve  in  the  Garden  ;  3.  The  Deluge  ;  4.  The  Israelites  crossing  the 
Red  Sea  ;  5.  Destruction  of  Solomon's  Temple  ;  6.  Building  of 
the  Second  Temple  ;  7.  The  Angel  and  Zacharias ;  8.  The  Nativity  ; 
9.  Baptism  of  Christ ;  10.  Christ  removed  from  the  Cross  ;  11.  The 
Resurrection  ;  12.  The  Ascension  ;  13.   Pentecost. 

The  Choir  is  the  richest  and  completest  portion  of  the  Cathedral. 
It  was  commenced  by  Bishop  Bytton,  continued  by  Stapledon,  and 
completed  by  Grandisson  (1329-69).  The  oaken  "Misereres"  are 
some  of  the  most  ancient  examples  of  Early  English  carving  in 
wood  to  be  found  anywhere  ;  the  canopies  recent.  The  Bishop's 
Throne  is  a  fine  pyramidical  structure  of  open  tracery  and  pointed 
arches,  52  feet  high.  Bishop  Stapledon  placed  it  here  in  1316. 
When  the  Puritans  defaced  the  statues  and  broke  the  richly 
painted  windows,  the  throne  escaped  through  having  been  taken 
to  pieces  and  concealed  before  the  city  was  surrendered  to  Fairfax. 
A  handsome  new  Reredos,  designed  by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  22  feet 
high,  of  marble  and  Derbyshire  alabaster,  with  precious  stones, 
occupies  a  large  space  at  the  east  end  of  the  choir.  The  centre 
compartment  is  occupied  by  a  sculptured  group  representing  the 
Ascension.  The  figure  of  the  Saviour  is  supported  on  either  side 
by  angels,  while  St.  Peter,  to  whom  the  cathedral  is  dedicated, 
occupies  a  prominent  position.  The  transfiguration  and  descent  of 
the  Holy  Spirit  on  the  day  of  Pentecost  are  also  represented.  The 
pavement  is  formed  of  yellow  and  green  glazed  tiles  like  those  at 
Gloucester.  The  great  Eastern  Window  (Early  Perpendicular)  dates 
from  1380,  and  the  stained  glass  is  of  the  same  date.     A  beautiful 


THE    CATHEDRAL  31 

pulpit  of  Derbyshire  alabaster,  the  gift  of  the  late  chapter-clerk, 
was  erected  in  1876. 

The  Choir  is  separated  from  the  aisles  by  an  elaborate  modern 
stone  screen.  The  aisles  respectively  terminate  in  St.  Mary 
Magdalene's  Chapel,  with  aS*^.  George's  adjoining  on  the  north,  and 
St.  Gabriel's  and  St.  Saviour's  on  the  south. 

The  Lady  Chapel,  where  early  morning  service  is  held,  has  fine 
sculpture  in  the  vaulting,  and  a  restored  Reredos,  exhibiting  the 
Nativity  and  other  Scriptural  scenes.  The  East  window  is  a 
magnificent  one,  filled  with  memorial  glass.  The  side  windows 
are  in  memory  of  Henry  Fhilpotts,  the  militant  modern  bishop, 
who  so  long  ruled  this  diocese,  and  is  still  remembered  for  Ms 
Gorham  and  other  controversies. 

The  Chapter-House  (1427-78),  to  the  south  of  the  south 
transept,  is  a  noble  apartment,  75  feet  by  30,  with  a  richly- 
decorated  roof.  The  lower  portion  is  Early  English,  begun  by 
Bishop  Bruere  (1223-44).  The  cathedral  library  of  8000  volumes, 
increased  some  few  years  since  by  the  gift  of  the  private  library  of 
the  late  Chancellor  Harington,  is  in  the  new  library  over  the 
modern  cloisters  (see  table).  Here  may  be  seen  a  copy  of  an 
edition  of  Caesar,  printed  in  1471  ;  the  "Codex  Exoniensis,"  a 
MS.  volume  of  Saxon  poetry  left  by  Leofric,  first  Bishop  of  Exeter, 
and  edited  by  Mr.  Thorpe  ;  several  Saxon  MSS. ;  the  volume  of 
Domesday  Book  relating  to  Devon  and  Cornwall ;  and  the  registers 
of  the  see  from  the  reign  of  Edward  I. 

There  is  a  Crypt  under  St.  James's  Chapel,  south  aisle  of  choir. 

The  Cloisters  are  a  partial  modern  restoration. 

The  view  from  the  Tower  would  be  recommendable,  were  Exeter 
not  so  well  otf  for  natural  prospect  points. 

Principal  Monuments 

In  the  Nave — Brass  of  Sir  Peter  Courtenay,  d.  1409.  A  bronze 
memorial  by  Marochetti,  of  the  9th  Royal  Lancers  who  fell  in  the 
Indian  Mutiny. 

In  the  North  Transept — William  Sylke,  d.  1508.  Above  this 
chantry  (built  1485)  was  discovered,  in  1852,  a  curious  fresco  of 
" The  Resurrection." — Jerusalem  in  the  background;  the  apostles 
and  disciples  around ;  and  Christ  rising  from  the  tomb,  bestow- 
ing a  benediction  with  his  right  hand,  and  holding  a  crozier  in  his 
left.     Beside  it  is  Chantrey's  statue  oi  James  Northcote,  R.A. 

In  the  South  Transept — Hugh  Courtenay,  Earl  of  Devon,  and 
his  Countess  Margaret ;  finely-sculptured  effigies  removed  from 
Nave.     Tomb  and  effigies  of  Sir  John  and  Lady  Gilbert  (1580). 

In  the  Choir — North  Side — Bishop  Stapledon,  founder  of  Exeter 
College,  Oxford,  d.  1326  ;  canopied  effigy,  in  the  decorated  style. 
Sir  Richard  Stapledon,  his  brother,  d.  1326  ;  effigy  of  a  knight  in 
armour.     Both  knight  and  bishop  were  murdered  by  a  mob  in 


32  EXETER 

Cheapside  for  having  too  warmly  espoused  the  cause  of  Edward  II. 
Bishop  Marshall,  d.  1206 ;  effigy  on  a  richly-sculptured  tomb  of 
Purbeck  marble.  Bishop  Carey,  d.  1622.  A  singular  effigy  here 
shows  the  figure  of  an  emaciated  corpse. 

In  the  Choir — South  Side — Bishop  Weston,  d.  1741  ;  Bishop 
Cotton,  d.  1621  ;  effigy.  Humphrey  de  Bohun,  Earl  of  Hereford, 
slain  at  Boroughbridge  in  1322  ;  effigy  in  armour.  Lieui. -General 
Simcoe,  d.  1806  ;  a  mural  monument,  with  figures,  by  Flaxman. 

In  the  Chapel  of  St.  George — Sir  John  Speke,  d.  1518  ;  chantry- 
screen  and  effigy,  also  memorial  window  to  his  descendant,  Speke 
the  explorer  of  Africa. 

In  the  Chapel  of  St.  Mary  Magdalene — Sir  Peter  Carew,  slain 
in  Flanders,  temp.  Elizabeth ;  effigy.  Bishop  Stafford,  d.  1419  ; 
altar-tomb  and  canopy,  screen  and  effigy  of  alabaster,  exquisitely 
sculptured. 

In  the  Lady  Chapel — Bishop  Peter  Quivil,  d.  1293  ;  slab  on  the 
floor,  engraved  with  a  floriated  cross.  Bishop  Bartholomew,  d. 
1148  ;  effigy.  Bishop  Simon  de  Apulia,  d.  1223  ;  effigy.  Tombs 
of  Judge  Doddridge  (d.  1628),  and  his  wife,  Dorothy,  whose  effigy 
lies  in  a  quaintly  uncomfortable  attitude. 

In  the  Chapel  of  St.  Gabriel — Bishop  Bronscombe,  d.  1280  ; 
effigy  and  tomb,  very  beautiful,  of  the  same  date,  the  screen  and 
canopy,  temp.  Edward  III. 

In  the  Chapel  of  St.  Saviour  —  Bishop  Oldham,  d.  1519  ; 
chantry-screen  and  effigy.  Note,  on  the  panels  and  in  the  window 
glass,  the  repetition  of  owls  as  a  rebus  on  the  bishop's  name. 

In  West  Front — Burial-place  of  Bishop  Grandisson;  chantry, 
St.  Rhadegunde.  St.  Rhadegunde  was  the  Queen  of  Clotaire,  eldest 
son  of  Clovis.  There  is  a  considerable  amount  of  foreign  character 
in  the  architecture  of  this  chapel,  and  indeed  in  the  whole  of  the 
Western  Screen,  in  the  thickness  of  which  it  was  constructed.  Its 
founder's  tomb  was  desecrated  by  Elizabeth's  "visitors,"  and  the 
low  arch  upon  which  the  bishop's  statue  reposed  was  at  one  time 
open  to  the  Nave. 

The  Bishop's  Palace  lies  to  the  south-east  of  the  Cathedral. 
It  was  thoroughly  renovated  some  half  century  ago,  but 
preserves  some  fine  carving.  On  leaving  a  card  at  the 
entrance  in  Palace  Street,  strangers  are  usually  allowed  to 
enter  the  grounds. 

The  Cathedral  Yard,  irregular  in  its  shape  and  its 
buildings,  makes  a  picturesque  surrounding  for  the  ancient 
Minster.  Among  the  old  buildings  here  (at  the  corner  of 
a  way  into  High  Street)  will  be  noticed  Mors  Coffee  House,  a 
Tudor  mansion,  now  Worth's  Photograph  Depot.  On  the 
first  floor  is  shown  a  fine  oak -panelled  roomi  used  for  the 


CHURCHES  33 

exhibition  of  sketches,  etc.,  of  the  district,  containing  a  line 
show  of  coats  of  arms,  chiefly  of  county  families. 

Going  down  towards  the  north-east  corner,  one  presently 
passes  a  Tudor  Arch,  within  which  is  the  Law  Library,  a 
hall  notable  for  its  carved  corbels,  which  appears  to  have 
been  the  Chancery  of  the  Cathedral. 

Beyond  this,  almost  opposite  the  east  end  of  the  Cathedral, 
another  ancient  Arch  leads  into  a  small  Quadrangle,  believed 
to  have  been  the  home  of  some  religious  community. 

Near  the  top  of  South  Street  is  the  College  Hall  or  Vicar's 
College,  which  contains  some  good  old  oak,  and  a  gallery  of 
portraits  of  Bishops  of  Exeter  and  others. 

These  are  only  some  of  the  old  houses,  more  or  less 
restored,  that  will  reward  an  antiquarian  rambler  round  the 
Cathedral  precincts. 

Clmrclies 

In  old  days  Exeter  had  32  parish  churches,  and  so 
many  monasteries  as  to  be  nicknamed  Monk  Town.  Now, 
with  its  suburbs,  it  counts  almost  as  many  churches,  some 
of  which  may  be  mentioned  as  interesting.  There  are 
three  lying  about  the  Cathedral,  St.  Martinis,  St.  Petrock's, 
and  St.  Mary  Major's,  with  interesting  monuments  and  other 
relics  of  the  past.  In  strong  contrast  to  these  is  the 
Chapel  in  Bedford  Circus,  close  by,  which  marks  the  influ- 
ence of  the  Simeonite  school. 

St.  SidwelVs  was  built  in  1813,  on  the  site  of  the  old 
church  ;  and  the  tower  has  recently  been  rebuilt.  The 
pillars  which  separate  the  nave  and  the  aisles  were  preserved 
from  the  original  structure.  It  has  some  fine  ornaments, 
and  is  rich  in  memorial  windows.  St.  Sidwell  was  a  virgin 
martyr  who  stood  high  among  the  patron  saints  of  Exeter. 

St.  Lawrence^ s,  High  Street,  dating  from  before  the  13th 
century,  has  a  good  oak  screen  and  a  statue  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  removed  from  a  conduit  which  formerly  existed 
in  High  Street. 

St.  James's,  recently  re-erected  in  the  Early  English  style, 
contains  a  pulpit  of  Spanish  carved  oak,  said  to  have 
been  captured  in  a  Spanish  galleon. 

3 


34  EXBTER 

St.  Mary  Steps  (West  Street)  exhibits  a  Norman  Font, 
notable   screen,    and   a  curious  antique   clock,  whose   thre 
figures  are  popularly  called    Matthew  the  Miller  (it  reall 
represents  Henry  VII.)  and  his  two  sons. 

In  the  church  of  St.  Mary  Arches  there  are  numerou 
ancient  memorials  and  a  Norman  arcade.  The  church  wa 
built  upon  arches,  whence  the  name. 

The  ancient  church  of  Allhallows,  Goldsmith  Street,  lia^ 
been  restored,  but  contains  some  interesting  bits  of  antiquit\ 
as  does  its  neighbour,  St.  Pancras  (in  Pancras  Lane,  behind 
the  Guildhall),  perhaps  the  earliest  complete  church  i: 
Exeter,  also  restored. 

St.  Stephen's  and  St.  Olave's,  in  the  main  line  of  street 
should  be  visited  by  the  archaeologist. 

St.  Edmund's,  on  the  Bridge,  is  rich  in  stained  glass. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Ghurch  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  in  Soutl 
Street,  is  worth  notice. 

The  most  important  modern  building  in  Exeter  is  th 
Albert  Memorial  Museum  in  Queen  Street,  opened  in  1869' 
Besides  the  Museum  itself,  the  building  contains  a  Fre* 
Library,  Schools  of  Science  and  Art,  Art  Gallery,  etc. 

Its  style  is  Gothic,  with  variations,  the  special  aim  of  th( 
architect  having  been  **to  reproduce  some  of  the  picturesqui 
character  of  the  old  city  without  copying  any  of  the  old  forms  o 
its  architecture."  A  good  colour-efi'ect  is  gained  by  the  use  o 
stones  of  various  tint.  A  new  wing  was  added  1899,  giving  raor 
accommodation  for  the  educational  department.  The  first  curato 
was  Mr.  W.  D'Urban,  grandson  of  the  Governor  of  Natal,  who 
though  deaf  from  childhood,  achieved  for  himself  a  position  in  thi 
world  of  science.  The  museum  is  well  stocked  with  exhibits  o 
Natural  History  and  Geology,  displaying  the  distinctive  feature 
of  Devon  and  Cornwall.  In  an  upper  hall,  among  a  large  collectioi 
of  arms  and  armour,  is  a  model  of  Exeter  as  it  was  near  a  centur 
ago.  An  adjoining  gallery  has,  among  portraits  of  local  nota 
bilities,  one  of  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  and  of  William  Widgery  (b; 
his  son)  whose  landscapes  from  Dartmoor  and  its  outskirts,  ar 
well  represented  here.     There  is  also  a  collection  of  lacework. 

The  Victoria  Public  Hall  (opposite  Queen  Street  Station] 
erected  in  1869  for  the  visit  of  the  British  Association;  th 
Royal  Public  Booms ;  and   the  Barnfield  Hall  of  the  Literar 


PUBLIC    INSTITUTIONS  36 

Society,  built  and  opened  in  1891,  are  available  for  lectures 
and  concerts.  The  new  Theatre  Royal,  erected  in  1886,  was 
burnt  down  soon  afterwards,  with  great  loss  of  life,  and  has 
been  re-erected,  with  special  attention  to  safety  against  such 
a  catastrophe.  The  Devon  and  Exeter  Institution  has  a  good 
Library  and  Eeading-Eooms.  The  Devon  and  Exeter,  the 
Exeter  and  County,  the  Northernhay,  are  the  chief  clubs  ; 
and  Exeter  is  up  to  date  in  having  a  Ladies'  Club  also. 

Among  the  educational  institutions  are  the  Grammar 
School,  and  the  St.  John's  Hospital  School  for  boys,  both 
founded  in  1637  from  the  funds  of  St.  John's  Hospital, 
High  Street,  which  dated  from  1225.  For  the  Grammar 
School  a  new  building  was  erected  in  the  Victoria  Park 
quarter,  1880.  The  old  buildings  off  High  Street,  now 
hidden  by  the  Post  Office,  enclose  a  quadrangle,  in  the 
centre  of  which  there  is  a  statue  of  a  hospital  boy  in  his  gown. 
The  High  School  for  Girls  is  near  the  new  Grammar  School. 

Good  boating  can  be  had  on  the  canal,  as  also  on  the  Exe ; 
but  in  the  latter  this  pastime  is  somewhat  impeded  by  the 
weirs,  and  by  the  tide,  which  comes  up  to  a  mile  below  the 
city.  A  well-arranged  Swimming  Place  will  be  found  on 
the  river  near  the  St.  David's  Station ;  there  is  a  Tepid 
Swimming  Bath  about  the  middle  of  the  High  Street  (in 
King's  Alley,  close  to  Eland's  Library).  A  Turkish  Bath 
adjoins  the  Rougemont  Hotel.  Football,  cricket,  and  other 
sports,  have  their  headquarters  at  the  spacious  County  Athletic 
Grounds  close  to  St.  Thomas  Station.  The  Golf  Links  on 
the  lofty  road  to  Stoke  Canon  (p.  36)  have  a  grand  view. 
The  river,  the  canal,  and  the  beautiful  streams  within  reach 
delight  disciples  of  Isaac  Walton.  For  information,  permits, 
etc.,  apply  to  Mr.  Prickman,  tackle  maker.  North  Street. 

WALKS  AROUND  EXETER 

The  country  about  Exeter  is  very  rich  and  varied,  the 
vegetation  testifying  to  the  luxuriance  of  the  climate,  and 
the  heights  about  the  river  valley  giving  fine  landscape 
effects.  Of  the  many  rambles  that  might  be  taken  through 
the  suburbs,  we  suggest  a  few,  with  hints  for  their  extension. 


36  EXETER 

Mount  Dinham,  above  the  Exe,  so  called  from  the  Free  Cottages, 
founded  by  Mr.  Dinham  for  reduced  tiadesmen,  makes  a  good  view- 
point over  the  Exe  as  it  bends  round  from  St.  David's  on  the  west 
of  the  city.  This  lies  to  the  right  of  Bridge  Street,  as  one  goes 
down,  or  may  be  reached  by  North  Street,  turning  up  left  at  the 
iron  Bridge,  with  the  church  spire  on  Mount  Dinham  for  beacon. 

From  the  height  of  Collaton  Crescent,  above  the  quay,  one  looks 
over  the  river  southwards,  the  view  rather  impeded  by  the  private 
grounds  in  front.     (Reached  by  Holloway  Street  and  Friars'  Gate.) 

From  St.  David's  a  peep  of  Devonshire  rurality  may  be  had 
almost  at  once  by  turning  up  Howell's  Road  opposite  the  station, 
and  taking  a  footpath  through  rails  to  the  left  up  a  valley,  whence 
a  lane  on  the  right  leads  to  Pennsylvania  Hill.  This  height 
makes  a  stiff  half-hour's  walk,  reached  also  by  bearing  to  the  left 
from  north  end  of  High  Street,  when  at  the  top  one  can  turn  left, 
then  by  a  lodge  on  that  side  return  through  the  enclosure  of 
Duryard  Park  (tickets  Id.)  coming  down  to  the  Cowley  Bridge 
Road  beyond  St.  David's  Station.  But  beyond  this  lodge,  the 
road  holds  on  to  Stoke  Canon  by  the  Golf  Links,  a  little  way  farther, 
at  ''Prospect  Gate,"  showing  a  noted  view  of  the  Exe,  Greedy,  and 
Culm  valleys,  with  the  skirts  of  Dartmoor  to  the  west. 

Bearing  to  the  right,  at  the  turn  to  Duryard  Park,  one  comes 
to  Heavitree. 

Heavitree  is  a  village  now  joined  on  to  Exeter,  a  tramway 
running  up  to  it  every  quarter  of  an  hour  by  Paris  Street.  The 
Church  has  a  noble  tower  rebuilt  as  a  Jubilee  memorial.  The 
parish  contains  two  fragments  of  antiquity  in  the  Livery  Dole 
Chapel,  adjoining  the  rebuilt  almshouses  on  the  road  above,  and 
a  fragment  of  the  St.  Loys's  Chapel  in  the  village  of  Wonford, 
which  straggles  along  the  road  farther  down.  The  Church  stands 
a  little  to  the  right  of  the  road,  before  it  drops  from  the  height  of 
Heavitree. 

This  was  the  birthplace  of  the  "judicious  Hooker"  ;  and  at 
Heavitree  House,  below  the  Church,  lived  Richard  Ford,  author  of 
a  Handbook  to  Spain,  which  in  guide-book  literature  occupies 
much  the  same  place  as  tliat  theologian's  work  in  Anglican 
divinity.  The  gardens  of  the  house  have  a  Moorish  touch  recalling 
the  owner's  connection  with  Spain. 

A  lane  from  the  Church  past  Heavitree  House,  leads  across  to 
the  Topsham  Road.  The  first  turning  left  becomes  a  footpath  l)y 
the  Sewage  Farm,  crossing  a  stream  at  the  foot  of  Pine's  Hill,  from 
which  there  is  a  good  view,  not  adorned  by  a  large  lunatic  asyluni 
on  the  farther  side.  Rising  from  this  stream  the  path  goes  on 
rustically,  coming  down  into  the  Topsham  Road  by  steps  near 
Countess  Wear  (see  below).  This  is  only  a  sample  of  lanes  and 
footways  leading  from  Heavitree  into  very  characteristic  Devon- 
shire aspects. 


EXETER  DISTRICT 


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WALKS  AROUND  EXETER  37 

Past  St.  David's  Station,  the  high  road  up  the  river  leads  in 
about  a  mile  to  Cowley  Bridge,  and  the  village  of  Cowley  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Exe  and  the  Greedy.  Across  the  latter  river  on 
the  hill  side  is  Pynes,  the  Earl  of  Iddesleigh's  fine  demesne,  which 
its  owner  identifies  with  "Barton  Park"  in  Jane  Austen's  Sense 
mid  Sensibility.  A  path  through  the  park  gives  beautiful  pro- 
spects on  the  Exe  valley. 

One  can  walk  back  on  the  farther  side  of  the  Exe  under  Exwick 
Hill,  where  lanes  and  paths  tempt  upwards  for  a  view  upon 
Exeter.  At  the  industrial  village  of  Exwick,  where  a  road  goes 
out  over  well-wooded  heights  to  the  west,  one  can  cross  to  St. 
David's  by  a  foot-bridge  ;  or  one  may  hold  on  opposite  Mount 
Dinham  to  the  bridge  at  St.  Thomas's. 

The  bank  of  the  Ship  Canal  affords  a  pleasant  walk,  that  might 
be  prolonged  to  its  opening  into  the  river  at  Turf  (5  miles),  where 
is  an  inn  noted  for  the  whitebait  fished  up  here.  A  mile  short  of 
this  a  ferry  takes  one  over  to  Tojysham  (p.  39),  or,  on  the  other 
side,  a  path  to  Exmi7ister  Station  (p.  53).  Two  miles  out,  bridges 
across  both  canal  and  river  lead  to  Countess  Wear,  off  the  Topsham 
Road.  There  is  hence  a  path  along  the  river  wall  down  to 
Topsham  ;  but  this  is  apt  to  be  dirty,  and  the  muddy  channel  at 
low  tide  makes  no  cheerful  prospect.  Towards  Exeter  a  pleasanter 
footway  leads  through  Northhrook  Park,  and  is  continued  by  a 
path  near  the  river  bank.  Or  from  the  Topsham  Road,  steps  up  a 
bank  on  the  right  (at  the  top  of  descent  part  the  gate  of  North- 
brook)  lead  to  the  path  by  Pines  Hill  and  Heavitree  Church. 

Across  the  river  one  goes  by  Cowick  Street  through  the  suburbs 
of  St.  Thomas,  past  the  G.  W.  R.  station  and  a  pretty  bit  of 
public  park,  opposite  which  is  the  fine  Church  with  its  old  tower 
and  monuments  of  the  family  of  Sir  Redvers  Buller,  who  is  lord  of 
the  manor  here.  Beyond  the  Church,  the  main  road  (to  Chagford, 
etc.)  takes  us  uphill  for  a  view  of  the  city  ;  and  we  might  turn  off 
on  the  right  into  lofty  woodlands  above  the  Creedy  Valley. 

The  road  to  the  left,  from  the  bridge,  goes  to  Alphington,  of 
which  we  have  to  speak  farther  on  (p.  48). 


EXCURSIONS    FROM    EXETER 

Longer  excursions  lie  along  the  lines  of  rail  that  radiate 
star-like  from  Exeter.  Two  of  these  have  been  already 
traced  in  our  approach  to  the  city  by  the  G.  W.  R.  (pp.  2-4) 
and  the  L.  &  S,-W.  R.  (pp.  4-14).  Our  next  line  brings  us 
in  touch  with  the  latter  route  at  Exmouth,  1 1  miles  down 
the  river,  where  it  becomes  open  sea  after  struggling  through 
shallows  and  sandbanks.  This  considerable  town  and 
bathing  -  place  is  easily  reached  by  frequent  trains  from 
Queen  Street,  and  active  citizens  often  run  down  for  a  dip 
in  the  sea,  though  for  this  purpose  Dawlish,  on  the  opposite 
shore  (p.  54),  is  more  recommendable.  On  both  lines,  in 
summer,  cheap  excursion  tickets  are  given  by  certain  trains 
to  many  beautiful  spots  lying  within  reach  of  Exeter. 

DOWN  THE  EXE  (Left  Bank) 

The  Exmouth  branch  of  the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  diverges  from 
the  main  line  to  London,  a  mile  from  Queen  Street  Station. 
One  road  goes  out  by  Heavitree,  and  down  the  Clyst,  near 
the  mouth  of  which  it  joins  another  coming  through  Top- 
sham,  the  first  station.  The  latter  road,  going  out  by  South 
Street  and  St.  Leonard's  spire  past  the  Barracks,  is  the  more 
direct  (4^  miles  to  Topsham),  but  so  much  shut  in  by  the 
walls  of  country  seats  that  pedestrians  might  rather  choose  a 
longer  way,  following  the  railway  by  lanes  from  Heavitree, 
or  the  path  above  the  river  by  Countess  Wear  (p.  37). 


TOPSHAM  39 

Topsham  (Inns  :  Salutation ;  Globe),  one  of  the  oddest  of 
odd  little  English  towns,  straggling  for  a  mile  or  so  along 
the  river  bank,  was,  in  Tudor  days,  a  port  of  consequence, 
lost  after  the  formation  of  the  canal  to  Exeter,  and  the 
silting  up  of  the  river.  Still  it  has  to  show  some  substantial 
old  houses,  once  the  abode  of  rich  merchants,  now  much 
come  down  in  the  world ;  but  snug  new  cottages  on  the 
outskirts  hint  that  its  population  of  some  3000  begins  to 
be  recruited  from  the  overflow  of  Exeter.  On  the  river  bank 
stands  the  parish  Church,  restored  and  almost  rebuilt  in 
1877,  containing  memorials  (by  Chantrey)  to  Admiral  Sir 
John  Duckworth,  d.  1817,  who  forced  the  passage  of  the 
Dardanelles,  and  his  son.  Colonel  George  Duckworth,  who  fell 
at  Albuera  in  1811. 

Though  it  may  not  look  a  very  sanitary  place,  the  position  of 
Topsham  between  two  rivers  is  said  to  make  it  healthy. 

Some  good  views  of  the  surrounding  country  may  be  obtained 
by  passing  down  the  Strand  to  the  wall  at  the  mouth  of  the  Clyst  ; 
then,  turning  up  this  river  by  an  open  stretch  of  green  flats,  one 
might  take  a  pleasant  walk  through  the  Clyst  villages,  to  its 
bridge. 

A  road  crossing  the  railway  at  the  station  leads  over  this  river 
to  Clyst  St.  George  (1  mile),  long  parish  of  the  autocratic  Rev.  H. 
T.  PUlacombe,  the  campanologist.  Thence  it  is  over  a  mile  more 
to  Clyst  St.  Mary,  where  one  can  turn  back  to  Exeter  (3  miles),  or 
hold  on  (2  miles)  up  the  river  to  Honiton  Clyst  (p.  14). 

A  little  below  Clyst  St.  George  the  two  roads  to  Exmouth 
join,  thence  holding  on  near  the  railway,  both  with  views 
over  the  estuary,  on  the  sloping  park  and  tower  of  Powder- 
ham  (p.  53),  backed  by  the  Haldon  range  (p.  48),  where  the 
woods  of  Mamhead  (p.  54)  can  presently  be  seen  up  a  hollow. 
Woodbury  Road  is  the  next  station,  2  miles  from  the  village 
of  Woodbury,  through  which  one  may  mount  to  those  airy 
commons  between  the  Exe  and  the  Otter,  behind  Budleigh 
Salterton  (p.  22).  By  Nutwell  Court,  the  home  of  Sir  F. 
Drake's  descendants,  we  come  to  Lympstone,  a  fishing  village, 
whose  bluff  of  red  rock  looks  over  the  river  to  Starcross  (p. 
53).  The  vicinity  of  Lympstone  is  very  Devonian  in  its 
features  ;  and  a  walk  on  to  Exmouth,  over  the  higher  ground 


40  EXCURSIONS   FROM   EXETER 

east  of  the  line,  affords  some  fine  views.  The  shore  here  is 
not  attractive  till  we  get  round  the  corner  at  which  Exmouth 
stands. 


EXMOUTH 

Hotels  :  Imperial,  Beacon,  Rolle,  London  ;  Tem.perance  Hotel  near  station.  The 
Atlantic  Private  Hotel  is  on  the  shore  ;  and  there  are  other  boarding-houses 
and  many  lodgings  here  and  on  the  Beacon  above. 

Though  a  town  of  over  8000  inhabitants,  and  though 
once  a  considerable  port,  Exmouth  is  but  an  ecclesiastical 
dependency  of  the  adjoining  parish  of  Littleham.  In  this 
century  it  has  grown  into  a  watering-place  of  a  not  un- 
common type,  one-half  lying  below,  with  a  lively  square,  a 
pier,  a  crescent,  a  sea-wall,  a  parade,  a  Jubilee  clock  tower, 
and  other  appurtenances  of  such  a  resort ;  while  the  other 
half  rises  along  the  top  of  the  cliff  called  the  Beacon,  or 
spreads  inland  in  streets  of  quiet  respectability.  This  high 
part,  as  well  as  the  walks  on  its  face,  look  out  on  the  open 
sea  and  the  mouth  of  the  river,  commanding  fine  views  of 
the  opposite  shore  with  its  hills,  woods,  stately  mansions, 
seaside  villages,  and  the  curious  flats  near  Starcross.  The 
country  behind  presents  exceedingly  attractive  uplands 
of  the  true  Devonshire  type,  a  mingling  of  luxuriant 
woods  and  meadows  with  broken  heaths  and  wild  banks 
of  verdure. 

The  Harbour  is  at  a  projecting  point  some  little  way 
beyond  the  station.  Passing  by  the  gardens  before  the 
station,  we  turn  up  to  the  left  for  the  Beacon,  or  to  the  right 
for  the  shore,  a  sandy  stretch  leading  on  to  warm  red  cliffs 
beyond.  Between  these  ways,  beginning  at  another  public 
garden  near  the  Imperial  Hotel,  there  is  a  pleasant  walk 
below  the  cliff.  The  bathing  on  the  beach  requires  caution, 
owing  to  a  dangerous  current.  There  are  machines,  also 
a  bathing  pavilion  belonging  to  a  club.  Bathing  is  free 
beyond  the  present  end  of  the  promenade,  where  Baths  have 
been  built.  About  2  miles  to  the  east  a  scramble  down  the 
cliffs  by  the  "  Smuggler's  Steps "  gives  swimmers  a  capital 
dive  when  the  tide  is  up. 


EXMOUTH  41 

The  climate,  though  drier  and  more  airy  than  in  the  case 
of  some  other  Devonshire  watering-places,  is  rather  of  the 
relaxing  type,  and  would  not  suit  all  strangers  ;  but  many 
permanent  residents  find  this  a  good  place  in  which  to  spend 
the  evening  of  their  days,  and  there  are  therefore  social 
advantages  which  would  be  an  attraction  to  retired  officers, 
Anglo-Indians,  and  the  like.  In  summer  it  is  frequented  as 
a  bathing  -  place,  hitherto  chiefly,  we  fancy,  by  visitors 
from  the  neighbourhood,  as  it  seems  to  have  a  little  hung 
fire  in  general  favour,  but  new  buildings  by  the  shore  hint 
at  wider  appreciation  of  its  merits.  Exmouth,  indeed,  is  a 
very  pleasant  place  of  sojourn,  provided  with  Assembly 
Kooms,  archery  ground,  lawn-tennis  and  the  like,  not  for- 
getting the  golf  links  below  the  Beacon,  one  course  for  gentle- 
men and  another  for  ladies,  with  stone  walls,  long  grass,  and 
bunkers  as  hazards.  The  sheltered  position  of  these  links  is 
a  recommendation  in  winter. 

Many  excursions  lie  open  from  Exmouth.  Eambles  over 
Woodbury  Common  (p.  22),  dotted  by  clumps  of  trees  and 
ancient  barrows  or  camps,  are  especially  enticing.  From 
the  pier  excursion  steamers  make  trips  in  summer  to  other 
Devonshire  resorts — Torquay,  Dartmouth,  Salcombe,  etc.; 
here  being  the  headquarters  of  the  Duke  and  Duchess  so  well 
known  on  this  coast.  There  is  communication  with  the 
opposite  shore  by  ferry  boat  and  steam  launch,  then  by  rail  to 
Dawlish,  Teignmouth,  and  Newton  Abbot  (p.  54). 

An  omnibus  from  the  station  runs  several  times  a  day  to 
Budleigh  Salter  ton,  5  miles  farther  along  the  coast  (p.  21), 
till  the  railway  shall  be  extended  between  these  two  resorts. 
About  3  miles  out,  a  mile  to  the  left  of  the  road,  stands 
the  interesting  ruin  of  Withycombe  Raleigh  Church, 
commonly  known  as  "  St.  John  in  the  Wilderness."  From 
this,  about  2  miles  north,  can  be  ascended  the  Black  Hill 
(p.  22),  or  some  other  buttress  of  Woodbury  Common.  From 
the  Budleigh  road,  one  might  turn  to  the  right  through 
Littleham  (2  miles),  with  its  pretty  Church,  and  make  for 
the  Beacon,  l^  mile  out  of  Budleigh  Salterton,  for  which 
could  also  be  taken  the  pleasanter,  but  longer,  and  in  parts 
ratlier  rough,  path  all  the  way  round  the  cliff  (p.  22). 


42  EXCURSIONS    FROM    EXETER 


UP  THE  EXE 

By  the  valley  of  the  Exe  a  road  of  25  miles  takes  us  up 
to  the  northern  border  of  the  county,  closely  accompanied 
most  of  the  way  by  the  Exe  Valley  Raihvay  (G.  W.  R.)  to 
Dulverton,  on  the  edge  of  Exmoor,  where  it  connects  with 
the  line  from  Taunton  to  Barnstaple.  This  branch,  fre- 
quently crossing  and  recrossing  the  river,  goes  off  the  main 
line  at  Stoke  Canon  (p.  4),  beyond  which  the  first  station  is 
Brampford  Speke,  which  has  a  fine  old  Church  with  a  stately 
buttressed  and  pinnacled  tower,  and  a  chantry  founded  by 
the  Speke  family.  The  village  stands  on  the  right  bank, 
where  the  railway  keeps  more  closely  to  the  river,  while  the 
high  road  bends  away  for  a  time  from  the  left  bank  through 
Stoke  Canon,  but  there  are  by-roads  on  each  side  for  way- 
farers not  concerned  about  pace,  and  the  river  valley  will 
always  serve  as  guide. 

Thorverton  is  the  next  station,  from  which  the  Raddon 
Hills  run  westwards  towards  Crediton  (p.  46),  rising  at  one 
point  to  nearly  800  feet. 

Up  Exe  and  Silverton  is  the  station  for  Silverton  (p.  4), 
a  mile  from  the  left  bank,  where  the  high  road  now  rejoins 
the  railway. 

Bickleigh  (11  miles  from  Exeter)  lies  among  beautiful 
scenery,  to  be  distinguished  from  its  beautiful  namesake 
near  Plymouth,  this  station  having  the  title  Gadeleigh  and 
Bickleigh.  The  village  is  perched  upon  a  narrow  ridge, 
between  two  deep,  shady  vales,  while  all  around  rise  gentle 
hills  clothed  in  luxuriant  verdure.  Bickleigh  Church,  with 
its  gray  tower,  is,  for  many  a  mile,  a  notable  landmark. 
Bickleigh  Court,  now  a  farmhouse  of  some  pretension,  with  a 
Norman  chapel  adjoining,  was  for  years  the  seat  of  younger 
branches  of  the  Courtenays  and  Carews,  and  here  was  born 
Bampfylde  Moore  Carew,  who,  after  a  life  of  singular  romance 
as  king  of  the  gipsies,  and  grandmaster  of  the  honourable 
fraternity  of  beggars,  returned  home  to  die  in  1758,  and  is 
said  to  be  buried  at  Bickleigh. 

At  Bickleigh  the  Exe  receives  the  waters  of  a  small  but  rapid 


THE    EXE    VALLEY  43 

tributary,  the  little  Dart,  whose  course  lies  through  a  romantic 
glen  well  worth  exploring,  not  only  by  anglers.  This  will 
not  be  confounded  with  the  more  famous  Dart  of  Dartmoor. 
The  course  of  the  Exe  also  is  finely  set  among  heights.  The 
Church  of  Cadeleigh,  2  or  3  miles  west,  is  remarkable  for  the 
Leach  monument,  an  elaborate  Jacobean  sculpture  with  life-sized 
figures,  now  in  much  need  of  restoration,  for  which  funds  are 
being  sought.  About  2  miles  south-west  (reached  on  a  curving 
way  from  Thorverton  to  Bickleigh  Station)  is  Cadbury  Castle,  a 
British  camp  on  a  lonesome  hill,  such  as  could  not  fail  to  stimulate 
local  superstition. 

"  If  Cadbury  and  Dolbury  dolven  were. 
All  England  might  plough  with  a  golden  share." 

Dolbury  (p.  4)  is  another  camp-crowned  hill,  4  miles  south-east, 
across  the  valleys  of  the  Exe  and  the  Culm.  It  is  said  that  in  the 
bosom  of  these  hills  a  vast  treasure  is  hidden,  and  guarded  by  a 
fiery  dragon  who,  at  "the  mid-hour  of  nijzht,"  may  be  seen  on 
his  flight  from  one  to  the  other,  but  no  English  Siegfried  has  as  yet 
achieved  the  adventure  of  this  double  Drachenfels. 

Four  miles  higher  up  comes  the  chief  town  of  this 
neighbourhood,  lying  at  the  confluence  of  tlie  Exe  and  the 
Loman,  among  picturesquely  wooded  scenery. 


TIVERTON 

Hotels:  PalTMrston,  Angel. 

This  is  a  prosperous  place  with  a  population  of  about 
12,000,  and  one  of  some  antiquity,  which  more  than  once 
has  suffered  from  disastrous  fires,  without  losing  all  its 
monuments.  Formerly  woollen  manufacture  was  the  staple 
industry,  but  it  is  now  chiefly  noted  for  its  laces,  the  manu- 
facture of  which  was  established  by  John  Heathcoat,  the 
inventor  of  the  bobbin  net  frame.  Its  markets  are  also  of 
importance. 

An  avenue  leads  from  the  station  and  over  the  Loman 
to  Gold  Street^  a  narrow  old  thoroughfare  continued  by  the 
broad  amenities  of  Fort  Street^  in  which  are  the  Town  Hall, 
the  Market,  and  the  prosperous  School  of  Science  and  Art. 


44  EXCURSIONS    PROM    EXETER 

Keeping  on  by  Angel  Hill  we  should  come  to  the  Exe 
Bridge,  across  which  is  JVest  Exe,  where  lace  making  and 
other  industries  flourish.  Bampton  Street  or  St.  Peter's  Street, 
on  the  right  of  Fore  Street,  lead  to  the  old  Church  and 
Castle. 

The  remains  of  the  14th  century  Castle,  built  by  Richard  de 
Redvers,  Earl  of  Devon,  have  been  converted  into  a  private 
residence,  and  little  of  the  ancient  building  is  still  intact.  Here 
is  preserved  a  grim  relic— that  fatal  chest  celebrated  in  Rogers' 
"  Ginevra  "  and  the  once  popular  song  of  "  The  Mistletoe  Bough." 

St.  Peter's  Church,  a  splendid  fabric,  originally  built  in  the  15th 
century,  was,  with  the  exception  of  the  Greenway  Chapel  and  the 
Tower,  rebuilt  in  1853-55.  Its  embattled  and  pinnacled  tower,  in 
the  Perpendicular  style,  is  116  feet  high.  The  south  fa9ade  is  the 
best  portion  of  the  building,  its  buttresses  adorned  with  quaintly- 
sculptured  figures.  The  screen  in  the  interior ;  the  emblematic 
sculpture  decorating  the  porch  and  chapel,  the  gift  of  a  wealthy 
merchant,  John  Greenway,  and  remarkable  for  the  richness  of  its 
carving  ;  the  brasses  of  Johii  Greenway,  d.  1529,  and  his  wife 
Jane,  should  be  noticed.  Over  the  vestry  door  is  a  copy  of 
Rubens'  Magi;  and  above  a  Norman  door  on  the  north  side,  an 
original  picture  of  Peter  in  Prison,  painted  by  Cosway,  a  Royal 
Academician  of  last  century,  and  native  of  Tiverton,  who  pre- 
sented it  as  an  altar-piece,  from  which  situation  it  has  been  trans- 
posed in  favour  of  a  stained  window.  The  memorials  of  the 
Courtenays,  Earls  of  Devon,  which  once  enriched  the  church,  were 
destroyed  in  the  Civil  War. 

John  Greenway  and  Peter  Blundell  were  the  two  great  bene- 
factors of  Tiverton.  For  the  Grammar  School,  founded  by  the 
latter  about  1604,  new  quarters  have  been  erected,  but  the  old 
buildings  still  stand  on  the  way  up  from  the  station.  A  block  of 
almshouses  in  Gold  Street  is  coeval  with  the  church,  and  was  also 
built  by  John  Greenway. 

Tiverton  seems  not  to  be  a  place  much  favoured  by 
tourists,  who  might  yet  be  repaid  in  taking  it  as  a  centre 
for  many  pleasant  excursions.  There  is  good  angling  here- 
abouts, preserved  by  the  Tiverton  Fishing  Association. 

A  pretty  M^alk  down  the  Exe  (from  St.  Andrew's  Street,  turn- 
ing left  from  the  main  street  at  St.  George's  Church)  leads  to 
Collipriest  House,  overlooking  the  river,  interesting  from  its 
pleasant  situation,  and  the  views  on  the  hill  above,  where  the 
"Temple  of  Apollo,"  at  the  end  of  a  fine  elm  avenue,  gives  a  good 


THE    EXE    VALLEY  45 

prospect  of  Tiverton  and  its  surroundings.     Up  the  river  is  the 
tine  modern  mansion  of  Knighthayes. 

Washfield,  about  2|  miles  up  the  valley,  has  an  interesting 
Church,  with  a  Norman  font,  Jacobean  screen,  and  some  interest- 
ing memorials  of  the  Worth  family.  Sampford  Peverell  and 
Halberton,  within  an  hour's  walk  eastward,  the  latter  on  the  way 
to  Tiverton  Junction  (p.  2),  have  both  interesting  old  Churches. 
Four  miles  north-west  is  the  ancient  Church  of  Loxbeare,  whose 
massive  Norman  Tower  contains  three  fine  bells. 

From  Tiverton  to  Bampton  is  7  miles  by  rail,  this  place 
lying  a  little  to  the  right  of  the  high  road  and  the  river. 

Bampton  (Hotel :  TFhite  Horse)  is  situated  on  the  Batham^ 
a  small  tributary  of  the  Exe.  It  is  an  uninteresting  town 
in  itself,  but  neighbour  to  enticing  scenery.  Hard  by  are 
large  limestone  quarries.  The  Church  is  partly  Decorated 
and  partly  Perpendicular.  It  has  a  fine  screen,  and  a 
couple  of  ancient  yew -trees  in  the  churchyard,  "The 
Mount,"  at  the  east  end  of  Castle  Street,  occupies  the  site 
of  a  former  fortress.  The  great  annual  fete  of  Bampton  is 
its  autumn  fair  for  the  sale  of  Exmoor  ponies,  driven  down 
by  hundreds. 

Up  the  Batham  one  can  make  for  the  Morehath  or  the  Venn 
Cross  station,  of  the  Taimton  line  (p.  42),  that  runs  along  a  finely- 
broken  border  of  Devon  and  Somerset.  To  join  this  the  Exeter 
branch  turns  away  from  the  Exe,  the  river  making  a  lovely  bend 
from  the  Exeter  Inn,  a  little  below  Bampton,  up  to  Exe  Bridge,  to 
which  it  may  be  followed  by  road.  Here  we  are  close  to  Dulverton 
Station  (Hotel :  Carnarvon  Arms),  and  to  the  confluence  of  the 
Exe  and  the  Barle.  Up  the  left  bank  of  the  Exe  holds  the  road 
to  Minehead  (43  miles  from  Exeter),  which,  in  2  miles,  at  Hele 
Bridge,  loops  for  some  dozen  miles  in  an  old  and  a  new  road,  the 
one  keeping  straight  over  the  hills  to  Timberscomhe,  the  latter, 
more  in  the  river  valley,  being  an  easier  route  for  wheels. 

At  Exe  Bridge  we  cross  for  Dulverton,  and  turn  up  the  Barle 
for  the  town  (Hotels  :  Bed  Lion,  Lamb,  etc. )  lying  two  miles  from 
the  station  among  beautiful  scenery,  for  which  we  must  refer  the 
reader  to  our  Somerset  Guide.  If  Dulverton  belongs  to  another 
county,  all  Devonians  will  own  that  it  deserves  to  be  in  Devon- 
shire. 


46  EXCURSIONS    FROM    EXETER 


TO  CREDITON  (8  miles) 

The  railway  in  this  direction  is  the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.,  which 
beyond  Crediton  at  Yeoford  Junction  branches  for  Plymouth, 
and  for  Barnstaple,  the  centre  of  North  Devon  communica- 
tions. This  line,  as  already  mentioned,  has  the  peculiarity 
of  going  out  alongside  the  G.  W.  R.  coming  into  Exeter  from 
London.  In  about  2  miles  the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  turns  off  up 
the  valley  of  the  Greedy,  by  which  also  goes  the  road  from 
Exeter,  having  crossed  the  Exe  at  Cowley  Bridge  (p.  37). 

About  half-way  to  Crediton  (4  miles)  comes  Newton  St. 
Gyres  (station)  from  which  one  has  a  good  walk  back  to 
the  city  over  the  wooded  heights  southwards.  Beyond  this, 
tlie  railway,  leaving  the  Creedy  valley,  passes  below  but  not 
in  sight  of  Crediton. 

Crediton  (Hotel :  Ship),  a  quiet  borough  of  some  four 
thousand  inhabitants,  was  the  seat  of  the  Bishopric  up  till 
the  middle  of  the  11th  century,  and  now  gives  its  name  to 
a  Suffragan  bishop.     As  the  rhyme  runs — 

'  *  When  Exon  was  a  vuzzy  down, 
Kirton  was  a  market  town." 

The  same  sort  of  boast  is  made  by  other  places  that  have 
come  down  in  the  world,  e.g.  by  a  village  near  Taunton. 

Crediton  is  said  to  have  been  the  birthplace  of  Winifred, 
or  St.  Boniface,  the  apostle  of  Central  Germany,  martyred 
in  756.  It  was  once  a  great  depot  of  the  woollen  manu- 
facture, but  its  staple  now  is  boot  and  shoemaking.  The 
name,  of  course,  comes  from  the  river  Creedy,  which  runs  a 
mile  to  the  east ;  and  about  as  far  south,  beside  the  railway, 
is  the  course  of  its  tributary,  the  Yeo. 

The  town  stands  a  little  way  north  of  the  station,  on  the 
road  from  which  (the  Exeter  Road)  at  the  top  of  the  hill, 
the  left  turning  {Charlotte  Street)  brings  us  by  the  stately 
sandstone  Church. 

The  Church,  of  cathedral-like  dimensions  and  arrangement,  is  a 


CREDITON  47 

good  Perpendicular  building,  restored,  embodying  the  Norman 
portion  of  the  tower  of  the  ancient  sanctuary.  During  its  prime 
as  a  collegiate  church  the  chancel  was  occupied  with  36  stalls  for 
its  18  canons  and  18  vicars.  An  altar-tomb  (south  side  of  chancel) 
with  effigies,  commemorates  Sir  John  Sully,  who,  after  fighting 
under  tlie  banner  of  the  Black  Prince,  died  at  the  age  of  105,  and 
Dame  Sully,  his  wife.  On  the  other  side  is  a  Jacobean  monument. 
There  is  good  glass  in  the  east  and  west  windows,  and  in  the  Lady 
Chapel,  at  one  time  used  as  a  school. 

Beyond  the  Church,  one  passes  on  into  the  main  street, 
which  mounting  uphill  goes  out  westward  as  the  Barnstaple 
Road,  in  half  an  hour's  walk  forking  left  to  Okehampton,  on 
higher  ground  that  affords  good  view-points. 

Above  the  town,  to  the  north,  is  Greedy  Park,  and  a  little 
way  out  on  the  Exeter  Road  is  Dowries,  the  seat  of  Sir 
Redvers  Buller.  The  finest  demesne  in  the  vicinity  is 
Shobrooke  Park,  across  the  Greedy,  a  mile  out  on  the  road  to 
Tiverton,  which  is  open  to  visitors,  and  makes  a  favourite 
Sunday  afternoon  walk.  The  road  goes  off  by  the  Church 
(reached  also  by  Mill  Street  from  the  station)  ;  and  at  the 
end  of  the  town,  a  lane  turning  by  the  gasworks  ends  in  a 
field-path  leading  straight  to  the  park.  From  farther  up 
the  town,  the  road  ascending  the  ridge  northwards  has  at 
the  top  a  guide-post  showing  the  way  (right)  to  Shobrooke 
by  Creedy  Bridge,  which  makes  a  fine  walk,  that  might  be 
lengthened  by  keeping  on  over  the  ridge  for  a  mile  beside 
Creedy  Park,  to  the  fertile  parish  of  Sandford,  and  there 
turning  right  to  the  Creedy  valley  ;  or  a  couple  of  miles 
straight  on  through  Sandford,  would  bring  one  into  it  near 
the  mansion  of  Dowrish,  dating  from  King  John's  reign. 

On  the  north  and  south  sides  of  Shobrooke  Park  go  cross  roads 
to  Tiverton  (p.  43)  and  Thorverton  (p.  42),  that  in  some  dozen  or 
half-dozen  miles  respectively  take  one  over  to  the  Exe  Valley. 
Between  these  the  pedestrians  might  ramble  on  the  Raddon  Hills, 
and  turn  north-eastward  to  Cadhury  and  Bickleigh  (p.  42). 

On  the  other  side  of  the  town,  above  the  left  of  the  Culvery 
Brook,  falling  into  the  Yeo  near  the  station,  one  may  ascend 
Posbury  Hill  with  its  interesting  red  sandstone  quarry,  and  bear 
right  to  Posbury  Camp,  from  which  there  is  an  extensive  view. 
Descending  on  the  south  side  to  Tedbum  St.  Mary  (5  miles  from 
Crediton)  one  here  gains  a  road  for  Okehampton,  on  which  the 


48  EXCURSIONS    FROM    EXETER 

cyclist  has  a  tine  7  miles'  run  back  to  Exeter.  Or  keeping  another 
5  miles  south  from  Tedburn  by  Great  Fulford  Park,  near  Dunsford 
(p.  52),  one  strikes  the  Dartmoor  road  about  as  far  out  of  Exeter. 

These  are  hints  for  rambling  through  a  rich  orchard  country,  well 
studded  with  farms  as  well  as  mansions,  and  affording  numerous 
glimpses  of  the  real  Devonshire  cottage — that  is  to  say,  an  oblong 
building,  with  a  thatched  roof,  and  walls  of  clay,  loam,  and 
straw  (locally  called  coh),  standing  in  its  own  little  nook  of  garden 
ground,  and  garlanded  about  its  diamond-paned  lattices  with  roses, 
eglantine,  and  jessamine. 


THE  HALDON  KANGE  AND  CHUDLEIGH 

This  is  the  ridge  of  some  ten  miles  running  down  behind 
the  right  bank  of  the  Exe,  almost  from  Exeter  to  the  valley 
of  the  Teign.  The  northern  part  is  called  Great  Haldon, 
south  of  which  comes  the  Little  Haldon,  both  rising  some- 
times over  800  feet.  The  whole  range  makes  a  grand 
stretch  of  Devonshire  scenery,  affording  lofty  walks  by  high 
roads  and  by-roads,  and  on  the  highest  ground  over  open 
moors,  from  which  at  various  points,  one  can  descend  to  the 
railway  stations  a  few  miles  distant.  A  direct  line  from 
Exeter  to  the  Teign  Valley  has  been  talked  about  for  half  a 
century,  and  seems  now  on  the  point  of  completion,  so  as, 
passing  along  the  north  side  of  Haldon,  to  join  the  present 
branch  from  Newton  Abbot  through  Chudleigh  to  Ashton 
(p.  52),  which  will  then  make  a  circle  round  this  heathy 
upland  and  its  rich  outskirts. 

Exeter  to  Newton  Abbot,  Teignmouth,  and  Chud- 
leigh.— The  high  road  over  the  Haldons  is  shorter  than  the 
less  arduous  way  by  the  shore.  They  go  out  together  over 
the  bridge,  and  in  a  mile  come  to  Alphington,  the  Swindon 
junction  of  roads  in  this  direction.  Here,  beneath  the 
noble  sandstone  tower  of  the  Church,  they  separate,  the  low 
road  keeping  down  to  Exminster  (p.  53)  as  far  as  which  an 
omnibus  runs  from  the  top  of  High  Street,  while  the  other 
goes  to  the  right,  guide-posts  making  all  clear.  At  the 
farther  end  of  the  village  diverges  the  old  road  to  Chudleigh, 
to    which    we    shall    presently    return    for   the    benefit    of 


THE    HALDON    RANGE  49 

pedestrians.  The  new  high  road  goes  on,  1  mile,  to 
Kennford,  where  is  our  last  chance  of  refreshment,  there 
being  no  inn  along  the  top  of  the  ridge.  Beyond  the  valley 
of  the  Kenn  stream,  running  down  to  Powderham  (p.  53), 
we  begin  to  ascend  in  earnest,  and  5  miles  from  Exeter  goes 
off  the  road  (5  miles  more)  to  Chudleigh  (p.  50).  The 
Newton  Abbot  road  takes  the  left,  with  beautiful  views  over 
the  Exe  Estuary.  Between  these  two  roads  is  the  Haldon 
Racecourse,  a  more  finely  situated  one  than  even  that  of 
Lansdowne  above  Bath.  Races  are  occasionally  held  here, 
but  their  glory  has  departed.  The  Newton  Abbot  road, 
running  not  quite  so  high  as  the  other,  takes  the  straighter 
line  of  an  old  Roman  way.  Having  given  off  by-ways  to 
Mamhead  (p.  54),  Star  cross  (p.  53),  and  Dawlish  (p.  54), 
about  7^  miles  from  Exeter,  it  forks  again,  the  left  branch 
(6  miles)  winding  down  to  Teignmouth  (p.  58),  while  the 
other  descends  by  Ideford  and  Kingsteignton  to  Newton  Abbot 
(p.  62),  for  which  indeed  the  road  through  Chudleigh  is 
about  the  same  distance  (16  miles),  and  seems  to  be  preferred 
by  cyclists. 

This  high  road  in  every  sense  offers  many  divagations  to 
the  wayfarer,  who  will  often  be  tempted  to  stray  on  either 
side,  and  wander  down  the  "goyles,"  a  local  name  for  its 
fern  -  choked  watercourses.  We  have  an  abiding  recollec- 
tion of  going  astray  on  Haldon  nearly  forty  winters  ago  ; 
but  since  then  the  cross  roads  have  grown  a  good  crop  of 
guide-posts.  There  is  room  only  to  outline  the  old  road 
which,  on  foot,  saves  a  mile  on  the  way  to  Chudleigh,  and 
makes  one  of  the  finest  walks  from  Exeter. 

To  Chudleigh  by  the  old  road  (9  miles). — At  the  farther  end  of 
Alpliington  this  turns  up  right,  marked  Shillingford.  Not  many 
people  may  be  found  on  Haldon  by-roads,  but  there  are  plenty  of 
direction  posts,  also  "tongues  in  trees"  in  the  shape  of  telegraph 
posts,  which  may  be  followed  all  the  way,  even  where  it  dwindles 
to  a  grass-grown  track.  Beyond  Shillingford  (2  miles  on)  one 
sees  on  the  right  the  wooded  slope  of  Haldon  House,  and  on  the 
ridge  above  the  Belvidere  view  tower,  built  by  Sir  Robert  Palk 
more  than  a  century  ago  at  nearly  the  highest  point. 

[The  Belvidere  Tower. — The  turn  right  beyond  Shillingford 
(marked  Dunchideock)  takes  us  across  a  road  leading  up  to  the 

4 


50  EXCURSIONS    FROM    EXETER 

Tower  from  Ide,  about  a  mile  west  of  Alphington.  As  is  so  often 
to  be  regretted,  damage  done  here  has  put  an  end  to  its  being  open 
to  all  and  sundry  ;  but  we  are  informed  that  visitors  not  likely  to 
abuse  this  privilege  will  be  trusted  with  the  key  on  application  at 
Haldon  House.] 

The  panorama  from  the  top  of  the  Tower  may  also  be  had  from 
other  elevated  points.  It  extends  eastwards  to  the  confines  of  the 
county  and  over  a  wide  expanse  of  the  English  Channel.  Nearer 
at  hand  are,  the  town  of  Exmouth,  the  estuary  of  the  river  Exe, 
and  the  grounds  of  Powderham  Castle  ;  north-eastward,  Exeter 
and  the  Black  Down  Hills,  crowned  by  the  Wellington  Monu- 
ment ;  northward,  the  wilds  of  Exmoor  ;  and  westward,  the  Teign 
Valley  and  Dartmoor.  It  is  only  due  southward  that  the  view 
is  obstructed,  and  there  the  continuation  of  the  Haldon  range 
itself  hides  the  coast  and  the  various  towns  upon  it.  From  the 
Tower  it  is  about  2^  miles  south-west  to  Ashton  Station,  present 
terminus  of  the  branch  line  from  Newton  Abbot. 

The  Tower  would  take  one  a  mile  out  of  the  direct  way,  which, 
always  following  the  telegraph  wires,  mounts  beside  woods  on  to 
the  moorland,  a  little  to  the  left  of  the  highest  point,  BuUer's  Hill 
(827  feet).  To  the  left  now  we  look  down  on  the  line  of  the  high 
road  passing  by  the  racecourse  above  the  Exe  Estuary.  Before  us 
spreads  the  Teign  Valley,  with  the  heights  of  Dartmoor  behind, 
towards  which  we  now  descend  with  the  woods  of  Whitetvay  on 
our  right.  In  about  4  miles  is  reached  Chudleigh,  our  lane  becom- 
ing a  road  again.  Had  one  turned  to  the  right  over  Buller's  Hill, 
then  from  the  Tower  left,  down  to  Ashton,  2^  miles  would  bring 
us  through  this  village  to  its  station  (p.  52). 

Chudleigh  (Clifford  Arms  Hotel),  reached  by  whatever 
way,  is  a  favourite  excursion  point  for  the  sake  of  its  rock 
scenery.  The  town  itself  is  mainly  modern,  having  been 
devastated  by  a  fire  a  century  ago.  The  station  lies  a  mile 
off  on  the  banks  of  the  Teign.  From  it,  on  reaching  the 
town,  one  turns  down  for  the  Rocks,  right,  at  a  smithy.  By 
the  road  from  Exeter  one  comes  to  this  point  through  the 
town. 

The  Chudleigh  Rocks  rise  over  the  wooded  glen  of  a  stream 
running  to  the  Teign.  The  road  down  into  this  hollow  passes  the 
site  of  what  was  once  an  Episcopal  Palace,  hardly  traceable  now. 
Then  come  two  dairy  farms,  offering  tea  and  other  refreshment 
for  man  and  beast.  Between  these,  on  the  right  of  the  road,  a 
wicket  opens  the  path  up  to  the  height  crowned  by  limestone 
rocks  embowered  in  greenery.  There  is  no  charge  for  admission, 
but  children  lie  in  wait  for  visitors,  whose  services  as  ciceroni  maj 
be  engaged  to  point  out  the  "  Hermit's  Chair,"  the  "  Black  Rock,' 


I 


CHUDLEIQH  61 


and  other  lions  of  the  scene,  or  to  provide  the  key  and  candles  for 
exploration  of  the  Pixies'  Cave  in  the  glen,  where  one  must  be 
sure  to  stick  a  pin  in  a  piece  of  soft  stalactite,  by  way  of  leaving 
a  card  on  the  Pixies,  who  will  be  much  offended  by  neglect  of  this 
ceremony.  The  cave  above  has  been  closed.  From  tlie  top  of 
the  Rocks  there  is  a  green  prospect,  and  the  glen,  with  its  cascade, 
makes  a  cool  retreat,  so  that  this  spot  is  a  great  resort  of  picnic 
parties. 

Returning  to  the  main  road  we  can  hold  on  through  the 
town,  passing  the  Church,  which  has  been  restored  out  of  its 
i  ancient  dignity,  but  contains  some  interesting  monuments 
land  a  good  screen.  At  a  Jubilee  Obelisk  the  chief  street 
forks  right  and  left  as  the  new  and  the  old  Exeter  roads  ; 
and  here  to  the  right  turns  off  the  road  to  Ugbrooke  Park, 
which  is  open  as  a  way  to  Teignmouth  (p.  58)  or  to  Newton 
Abhot  (p.  62).  Near  the  entrance  on  this  side,  at  the  highest 
point  (400  feet),  is  an  ancient  camp.  Lord  Clifford's 
mansion  here  is  adjoined  by  a  private  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  with  fine  internal  decorations ;  and  another  feature 
of  Ugbrooke  is  its  ornamental  water. 

In  walking  back  to  Exeter  by  the  old  road  (p.  49)  one  follows 
the  telegraph  wires.  Only  at  one  point  is  there  a  chance  of  going 
wrong,  where  on  the  high  moorland  a  guide-post  points  right 
'to  Exeter,"  but  this  takes  one  down  to  the  new  high  road, 
whereas  the  old  one  holds  on  across  the  moor,  turning  presently 
down  by  a  wood. 

If  we  return  by  train  we  have,  or  shall  soon  have,  a 
choice  of  routes,  either  by  the  new  Teign  Valley  rail  through 
Ashton,  or  by  the  main  G.  W.  R.  line  joined  at  Newton 
Abbot  (p.  62).  The  former  line  may  now  be  traced  back- 
ward as  it  curves  round  the  northern  slopes  of  Haldon.  Its 
extension  from  Ashton  to  Exeter,  exactly  halving  the  present 
iistance  by  rail  (26  miles),  is  not  complete  as  we  write  ; 
but  the  works  are  in  such  an  advanced  stage  that  we 
venture  to  treat  this  enterprise  as  a  fait  accompli. 

The  first  station  up  the  river  is  Trusham  below  Hennock 
'  icross  the  heights  over  which  one  might  pass  to  the 
\  valley  of  the  Bovey.  Above,  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
'  leign  stands  Ganonteign,  a  good  specimen  of  an  Elizabethan 


52  EXCURSIONS    FROM    EXETER 

manor-house  come  down  in  the  world.  Ashton,  a  mile 
higher,  was  long  the  terminus  of  the  line,  which  may  some 
day  throw  off  a  branch  up  the  Teign  to  Chagford.  About 
the  station  is  Lower  Ashton^  but  the  village  with  its  interest- 
ing Church  stands  a  mile  above,  towards  the  ridge  of  Haldon. 
All  round  is  finely-marked  scenery. 

From  Ashton  a  couple  of  hours'  walk  up  the  Teign  Valley  would 
take  one  to  the  gorge  of  the  river  at  Fingle  Bridge,  and  beyond  in 
5  miles  to  Chagford.  On  the  way,  above  the  right  bank,  are  the 
Churches  of  Christow,  with  two  screens  and  Pellew  memorials,  and 
Bridford  with  a  good  screen.  Three  miles  above,  on  the  left  bank, 
comes  the  tall  church  tower  of  Dunsford  {Royal  Oak),  a  charming 
village  among  fine  woodlands.  Near  the  river  one  may  hold  on  to 
Clifford  Bridge ;  thence,  one  could  scramble  up  the  anglers'  path 
into  the  gorge,  or  take  the  road  above  the  left  bank  for  a  good 
couple  of  miles,  then  descend  to  Fingle  Bridge  beyond  which 
a  good  path  keeps  up  the  bank  most  of  the  way  to  Chagford 
(see  Dartmoor  Section). 

Between  Christow  and  Dunsford  the  line  leaves  the 
Teign,  presently  turning  eastward  towards  Exeter.  The 
first  new  station,  we  understand,  will  be  Teign  House.  Its 
Longdown  Station  is  below  the  camp  known  as  Cotley 
Castle  (700  feet) ;  next  comes  Ide,  from  which  there  is  a 
good  road  up  to  the  Belvidere  Tower  (p.  49) ;  then  crossing 
the  high  road  near  Alphington,  it  joins  the  G.  W.  E.  short  of 
its  St.  Thomas's  Station.  We  had  hoped  for  an  opportunity 
of  surveying  this  new  line,  but  find  ourselves  obliged  to  be 
content  with  such  slight  indications  of  its  route,  enough  to 
show  that  Exeter  folks  are  here  promised  a  welcome  addition 
to  their  excursions.  Whether  it  will  be  a  delight  to  its 
shareholders  is  a  separate  consideration. 

To  Dartmoor. — A  little  to  the  north  of  this  line  goes 
the  arduous  road  to  Moreton  Hampstead  ( 1 2  miles),  passing 
on  the  way  near  Dunsford,  and  beyond  Moreton  stretching 
over  the  moor  to  Tavistock  (34  miles).  At  Pocomhe  Bridge,  a 
mile  out  of  Exeter,  it  gives  off  to  the  right  another  rough 
road  to  Okehampton  (22  miles).  But  for  the  scenes  of 
Dartmoor  we  must  refer  to  another  section  of  our  Guide. 


THE    EXE    ESTUARY  53 


DOWN  THE  EXE  (Right  Bank) 

This  is  our  main  route  onwards,  down  the  right  bank  of 
the  Exe,  to  the  Teign  Valley,  the  boundary  of  this  section 
of  our  Guide.  The  high  road  goes  out  through  Alphington 
(p.  48),  here  and  there  bending  inland,  but  one  can  usually 
keep  near  the  shore,  much  monopolised  as  it  is  by  the 
railway.  To  Newton  Ahhot  is  about  21  miles  ;  to  Torquay 
direct  by  the  hilly  coast  road  beyond  Teignmouth,  23  miles. 
On  foot,  one's  straightest  way  out  of  Exeter  is  along  the 
bank  of  the  Ship  Canal  (p.  37),  as  far  as  that  will  take  us. 
One  can  also  start  down  the  other  bank  of  the  river,  ferry- 
ing across  at  Topsham  for  Exminster,  or  at  Exmouth  for 
Starcross  or  the  Warren. 

Leaving  St.  David's  Station,  the  G.  W.  R.  at  once  crosses 
the  Exe,  and  bears  round  through  the  St.  Thomas  suburb 
(p.  27)  with  a  good  view  of  the  city's  towers  and  spires  on 
the  opposite  bank.  From  Exminster,  a  small  village,  5 
miles  on  our  way,  Topsham  may  be  seen  on  the  far  side  of 
the  river,  which  here  begins  to  widen  out  into  its  estuary  ; 
and  the  canal's  mouth  is  marked  by  the  lonely  inn  at  Turf 
(p.  37). 

Two  miles  beyond  Exminster,  we  pass  on  the  right  hand 
Powderham  Castle,  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Devon.  The  beauti- 
fully wooded  park  slopes  upwards  from  the  level  strath  of 
the  Exe,  coming  down  to  the  railway,  beside  which  is  passed 
the  Church.  On  the  height  above,  a  tower  rises  from  the 
woods.  The  Castle  lies  on  lower  ground  farther  on.  It 
retains  in  part  its  mediaeval  character,  but  has  been  to  some 
extent  modernised.  Being  at  present  let,  it  is,  we  are  in- 
formed, no  longer  open  to  strangers. 

Starcross  (Hotel :  Courtenay  Arms)  is  the  station  for 
Powderham,  its  entrance  gate  being  at  the  north  end  of  the 
Esplanade,  that  shows  a  peculiar  feature  in  specimens  of  the 
almost  lost  topiary  art.  This  is  something  of  a  bathing 
place,  quiet  and  pleasant,  but  too  much  within  the  estuary 


54  EXCURSIONS    FROM    EXETER 

to  rank  as  real  seaside.  In  its  little  harbour  are  usually  to 
be  seen  two  artificial  swans,  great  and  small,  which  have 
been  seamarks  here  for  a  generation,  though  sometimes  they 
are  laid  up  at  Exmouth.  These  curious  craft,  of  the  nature 
of  what  is  called  a  "  Folly "  in  land  buildings,  are  said  to 
have  been  made  for  hunting  wild  fowl ;  the  larger  one 
supplies  a  good  bathing  stage.  At  the  farther  end  of  the 
place  is  a  large  Institution  for  feeble-minded  children  of  the 
western  counties. 

Pretty  walks  up  the  valley  behind  Starcross  take  one  in  an 
hour  to  the  foot  of  the  Haldon  range  (p.  48),  almost  any  road  over 
which  is  beautiful.  Three  or  four  miles  back  rises  the  finely 
wooded  park  of  Mamhead,  open  to  all  strangers  except  cyclists. 
One  may  pass  through  by  the  drive,  between  the  mansion  and  the 
church,  and  take  the  course  of  Dawlish  Water  to  Dawlish  (p.  56). 

A  good  mile  north-west  of  Starcross,  by  the  road  along  the  side 
of  Powderham  Park  (the  high  road  from  Exeter),  is  the  village  of 
Kenton,  notable  for  its  sandstone  Church,  with  a  noble  pinnacled 
tower,  and  one  of  the  finest  screens  in  the  county.  Near  it,  on  an 
adjacent  patch  of  green,  stands  an  old  cross  restored. 

From  Starcross  station  a  steam  launch  will  ferry  one  over 
to  Exmouth,  1-|  m.  distant.  There  is  also  a  boat  ferry  from 
the  point  of  the  Warren,  that  curious  stretch  of  waste  ex- 
tending a  long  mile  over  the  estuary,  which  at  low  tide  it 
seems  almost  to  choke  up.  The  Warren  is  turned  to  account 
for  golf-links  and  rifle  butts,  and  a  pleasant  walk  may  be 
had  across  it  to  Mount  Pleasant  (Inn),  thence  along  the  sea- 
wall or  by  the  cliff  to  Dawlish,  for  which  the  high  road  bends 
a  little  inland  (12  miles  from  Exeter). 


DAWLISH 

Hotels :  Royal,  London,  Albert,  Lake's  Temperance  (all  opposite  the  station, 

except  the  London,  which  stands  a  little  way  back  in  the  town). 
Boarding-House ;  lona  House. 

This  favourite  sea -side  resort,  one  of  the  neatest  and 
prettiest  in  Devon,  occupies  a  cove  shut  in  by  honeycombed 
rocks  of  deep  red   sandstone.     Through  the  valley  which 


I 


DAWLISH  55 

here  opens  out  upon  the  sea  runs  a  tamed  rivulet,  spanned 
by  numerous  little  bridges,  and  banked  on  each  side  by  a 
broad  border  of  smooth  greensward.  Along  this  "  Lawn " 
stretch  inland  houses  and  shops,  many  of  them  in  their  own 
snug  little  plots  of  garden-ground  ;  on  the  hill-slopes  beyond 
are  perched  numerous  villas,  and  the  cliff  front  is  crowned 
with  terraces  looking  out  to  sea.  By  the  "  Strand,"  and  up 
the  valley  of  Dawlish  Water,  myrtles,  hydrangeas,  and  other 
delicate  plants  bloom  freely  in  a  climate  which  is  decidedly 
mild,  not  to  say  relaxing,  in  summer  and  autumn,  but  in 
the  early  part  of  the  year  may  suffer  from  east  winds.  To 
the  south  of  the  town  is  Lea  Mount,  a  public  garden  taste- 
fully laid  out,  and  well  provided  with  walks  and  seats  from 
which  to  enjoy  the  views  and  the  contrast  of  warm  red  and 
green  displayed  by  the  cliffs. 

The  only  fault  to  be  found  with  the  amenities  of  Dawlish 
is  the  way  in  which  the  railway  cuts  it  off  from  the  shore. 
Passing  under  the  line  at  the  station  we  find  a  stretch  of 
sand,  on  which  stands  a  large  Ladies'  Bathing  Pavilion.  At 
the  farther  end  pleasure  boats  have  their  landing.  The 
men's  snug  bathing  place  is  round  the  corner  under  Lea 
Mount,  to  which  one  used  to  pass  through  a  tunnel,  till  a 
fall  of  rock  here  caused  a  fatal  accident,  now  reached  by 
a  little  esplanade  from  which  walks  have  been  cut  up  the 
cliff.  Beyond  this  there  are  machines  in  summer,  and 
hollows  in  the  rock  to  serve  as  natural  dressing -places. 
When  the  tide  serves,  a  good  plunge  can  be  had  from 
the  small  breakwater  ;  and  athletic  youth  scramble  to  dive 
off  an  isolated  rock  known  variously  as  the  "Old  Maid" 
and  the  "  Toad,"  which  of  late  years  has  suffered  from  the 
waves.  Beyond  stand  up  other  fantastically-worn  masses  of 
sandstone,  the  most  prominent  of  them  known  as  the 
"  Bishop  "  ;  and  at  the  point  are  the  "  Parson  and  Clerk." 

The  Parish  Church  stands  about  half  a  mile  up  the 
valley,  to  the  left,  reached  also  by  one  very  pleasant  walk 
on  the  bank  above.  It  is  a  fine  rebuilt  structure,  containing 
two  monuments  by  Flaxman.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
valley,  chiefly,  clusters  the  little  town,  through  which  a  road 
goes  up  Dawlish  Water  towards  Haldon. 


56  EXCURSIONS   FROM    EXETER 

Behind  the  Church  is  the  richly  -  wooded  park  of 
Luscombe  Castle.  These  grounds,  once  open  on  certain 
days,  are  now  closed,  and  the  fine  private  chapel  designed 
by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott  seems  to  have  gone  out  of  use. 

On  the  Starcross  side,  the  sea-wall  gives  a  walk  of  a  mile 
to  Langstone  Point,  beyond  which  lies  the  Warren.  But 
pleasanter  is  the  lane  along  the  edge  of  the  cliff  in  this 
direction,  to  be  gained  at  more  than  one  point  by  crossing 
the  railway.  A  good  round  might  thus  be  made  by  Star- 
cross,  Kenton,  and  Mamhead. 

There  is  lovely  country  about  Dawlish,  where  the  visitor 
may  ramble  through  red  lanes,  deeply  shaded  by  green,  that 
soon  lead  him  into  up-and-down  roads,  well  provided  with 
guide-posts.  Cyclists  will  not  find  this  an  ideal  ground  for 
their  exertions,  but  active  pedestrians  can  be  much  better 
suited.  For  such,  we  suggest  a  half  day's  round  on  the 
heights  behind,  bringing  in  the  varied  aspects  of  the  district. 

To  Haldon,  Mamhead,  etc, — Leave  Dawlish  by  the  road  on  the 
right  side  of  the  brook,  skirting  Luscombe  Park  to  its  left.  Past 
the  lodge  gate,  take  the  first  turn  left,  which  leads  up  through 
shady  woods.  When  the  rich  timber  of  the  combe  changes  to  firs, 
this  road  comes  to  a  level  on  a  heathery  moor,  near  the  top  of 
Little  Haldon  (over  700  feet)  where  several  tumuli  can  hardly  be 
traced  among  the  natural  roughness  of  the  ground.  On  the  sky 
line  a  little  to  the  left,  a  sign-post  will  be  seen  marking  the  high 
road  from  Exeter  to  Teignmouth  along  the  top  of  the  ridge. 
Short  of  this,  our  road  reaches  another  sign-post  showing  ways  to 
Chudleigh  and  to  Mamhead.  Taking  the  latter  road  to  the  right, 
we  skirt  a  fir  wood  on  the  edge,  having  wide  views  over  the  Exe 
estuary,  Dawlish  below,  Exmouth  across  the  water,  and  leagues  of 
cliffs  stretching  beyond  to  Dorsetshire.  A  view-tower  is  passed  in 
the  woods,  but  it  has  been  overtopped  by  the  growth  of  the  trees. 
Below  this,  from  the  descending  road,  a  steep  lane  to  the  right — 
an  ancient  portway — would  take  us  down  into  the  road  back  to 
Dawlish,  which  loops  so  as  to  give  a  choice  of  coming  home  by  the 
left  bank  of  the  stream. 

Else,  turning  left,  at  the  sign-post  for  Mamhead,  we  follow  the 
road  into  a  deep  hollow,  where  the  bending  course  of  Dawlish 
Water  is  again  crossed.  Holding  up  the  opposite  slope  to  the 
woods  of  Mamhead  (p.  54),  we  turn  right  for  a  little  way,  and  can 
enter  the  gate  of  the  park  in  spite  of  stern  notices  which  are  not 
so  pxclusive  as  they  seem  except  in  the  case  of  cycles.  The  avenue 
leads    us    through    this    richly  timbered  demesne   between    the 


DAWLISH  57 

mansion  and  the  church,  beyond  which,  bearing  left,  one  could 
mount  to  the  high  road  over  Great  Haldon,  reached  a  long  mile  to 
the  south  of  the  lotty  racecourse  (p.  49).  Below  this  road  (about 
700  feet)  rises  Dawlish  Water,  a  mile  or  so  down  which  comes 
Ashcombe,  which  has  a  church  worth  visiting,  whence  the  stranger 
can  easily  find  his  way  back  by  the  knowledge  of  the  country  he 
has  already  gained,  not  to  speak  of  frequent  guide-posts. 

We  set  out  rather  with  the  intention  of  circling  round  to  Star- 
cross,  which  is  about  4  miles  from  Mamhead,  For  this  road  take 
the  drive  turning  right,  after  it  has  passed  between  the  church 
and  the  house  in  Mamhead  Park  ;  and  at  the  lodge  the  lane  down- 
hill to  the  left  to  a  sign-post.  The  next  sign-post  shows  the  shortest 
way  back  to  Dawlish.  For  Starcross  we  hold  straight  on  through 
a  dark  wood.  It  would  be  only  a  mile  or  so  out  of  the  way  to 
turn  up  to  Kenton  (p.  54)  on  the  left,  for  which  at  the  cross  ways 
last  mentioned,  an  unnamed  lane  mounts  into  a  wood  and  is 
continued  by  a  field-path  in  the  same  direction,  cutting  off  a  corner 
into  the  road  for  Kenton.  Thence  along  the  side  of  Powderham 
Park  1^  mile  would  bring  us  down  to  the  sea,  near  Starcross 
Station.  So  far,  the  round  has  been  under  a  dozen  miles,  and  if 
we  walk  on  along  the  coast,  some  15  miles  in  all  bring  us  back 
to  Dawlish. 

To  Teignmouth. — Another'pleasant  round  of  half  a  dozen  miles  or 
so  in  the  other  direction  is  turning  left  on  the  top  of  Little  Haldon, 
and  dropping  thence  to  Teignmouth.  A  shorter  way  to  Teign- 
mouth is  taken  by  a  lane  to  the  left  of  the  church,  passing  over 
Holcombe  Down.  The  shortest,  if  not  the  most  agreeable,  is  by 
the  high  road  keeping  a  little  back  from  the  shore  (3  miles).  At 
this  end  the  cliffs  are  obstructed  by  private  grounds  ;  but  on  foot 
one  can  go  out  by  the  direct  Teignmouth  road,  then  after  a  mile 
or  so  turn  down  at  Lower  Holcombe  by  "Smugglers'  Lane,"  pass- 
ing under  the  railway  to  regain  the  coast  near  the  Parson  and 
Clerk  rocks,  two  prominent  stacks  of  red  sandstone  which  still 
hold  their  own,  more  and  less,  against  the  bulleting  of  the  waves. 
From  this  point  it  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  to  Teignmouth  by 
the  sea-wall,  along  which  now  runs  the  railway,  after  being  boxed 
up  in  a  succession  of  tantalising  tunnels. 

The  G.  W.  E.  between  Dawlish  and  Teignmouth  has 
hitherto  been  a  single  line,  according  to  malicious  critics, 
kept  so  on  purpose  to  prevent  the  L.  &  S.-W.  E.  from  getting 
running  powers  over  it.  To  silence  such  slanders  this 
section  of  rail  is  now  being  doubled.  Originally  the  line 
here  was  worked  by  atmospheric  pressure,  tall  campanile- 
like towers  being  erected  as  pumping  stations.     After  being 


68  EXCURSIONS    FROM    EXETER 

taken  over  by  tlie  G.  W.  R.  it  became  the  last  broad  gauge 
rail  in  England,  altered  in  1892  to  the  standard  gauge. 


TEIGNMOUTH 

Hotels :  Royal,  London,  Queen's,  etc. 
Boardlng-Houses  :  West  Lawn,  Bampark,  Portland  Home,  etc. 

What  Torquay  is  to  Teignmouth,  Teignniouth  itself  is  to' 
Dawlish,  holding  a  middle  place  in  importance,  as  in 
position.  Yet  Teignmouth  can  boast  itself  over  Torquay,  as 
an  ancient  town  and  harbour,  which  has  more  than  once 
enjoyed  the  distinction  of  being  burned  by  French  cruisers. 
It  is  now  a  pleasant  town  of  about  eight  thousand  in- 
habitants, with  a  stir  of  fishing,  yachting,  and  ship-building, 
much  favoured  by  retired  veterans,  Anglo-Indians  and  the^ 
like,  besides  its  floating  population  of  summer  visitors.  | 

The  town  stands,  mostly  upon  flat  ground,  at  the  corner  ^ 
of  the  Teign  estuary,  and  is  thus  more  open  to  breezes  than 
Torquay  or  Dawlish,  while  sheltered  to  tlie  north  by  the 
heights  of  Haldon.  The  more  genteel  part  faces  the  sea, 
showing  a  dignified  front  of  terrace  and  crescent  behind 
the  Den,  a  wide  strip  of  lawn  and  walks  which  suggests  the 
Lees  of  Folkestone  brought  down  to  a  lower  level.  Before 
it  are  the  Pier  and  sands,  where  bathing  can  be  had  safely 
from  machines,  except  when  an  east  wind  makes  the  breakers 
too  boisterous  ;  one  gets  a  plunge  also  from  the  end  of  the 
Pier.  The  Den  promenade  is  continued  to  the  Parson  and 
Clerk  rocks  by  a  sea-wall  running  beside  the  railway,  before 
which  early  bathers  make  bold  to  disport  themselves ;  and 
the  heights  above  this  end  are  laid  out  with  walks  that  give 
fine  views  of  the  red  cliffs  lighting  up  both  sides  of  the  bay 
into  which  the  Exe  opens  here. 

At  the  other  end  of  the  Den  is  a  small  lighthouse,  and 
beyond  it  the  harbour  at  the  river's  mouth,  where  Teign- 
mouth has  what  may  be  called  a  side- frontage  to  the  estuary. 
Opposite,  on  the  southern  bank,  rises  the  steep  and  richly 
verdured  promontory  known  as  the  Ness,  beneath  which  lies 


TEIGNMODTH  59 

the  village  of  Shaldon,  connected  with  Teignmouth  by  a 
wooden  bridge  1672  feet  long,  swinging  open  in  the  channel 
for  the  passage  of  email  vessels.  This,  said  to  be  the  longest 
wooden  bridge  in  England,  cannot  be  called  a  picturesque 
feature  in  itself ;  but  the  view  from  it,  when  the  tide  is  up, 
will  be  much  admired,  the  broad  stream  appearing  like  a 
lake  in  the  wooded  valley  backed  by  hills  rising  to  the  tors 
of  Dartmoor.  A  new  Church  is  being  built  at  Shaldon, 
where  the  small  old  one  has  been  restored  in  its  original 
style,  and  contains  a  very  ancient  Font  and  other  relics. 

There  is  not  much  to  be  said  of  the  town,  except  that  it 
has  the  usual  sea-front  amenities,  and  behind,  the  usual  maze 
of  winding  streets,  with  buildings  old  and  new,  rising  to 
smart  villas  on  the  heights.  It  includes  two  parishes.  The 
rebuilt  church  of  East  Teignmouth  (St.  Michael's)  is  plain, 
but  for  some  fine  ornaments  and  a  pinnacled  Jubilee  Tower. 
That  of  West  Teignmouth  (St.  James's)  is  more  than  plain, 
though  it  has  been  touched  up  lately ;  it  contains  a  good 
Reredos  which  seems  out  of  keeping  with  its  Simeonite 
antecedents.  A  Roman  Catholic  Church  stands  on  the 
Dawlish  Road  ;  and  this  Church  has  two  Convents  here. 
There  are  Baths  behind  the  Pier.  The  Assembly  Rooms 
at  the  London  Hotel,  and  other  halls  are  used  for  entertain- 
ments. In  summer  there  is  dancing  on  the  pier  and  music 
on  the  Den  ;  and  a  good  deal  of  private  gaiety  goes  on  all 
the  year.  The  tennis  tournament  here  has  a  more  than 
local  fame.  Balls  are  usually  held  in  the  club,  one  of  the 
best  in  the  west  of  England,  and  praiseworthily  hospitable  to 
visitors.  Out  of  the  bathing  season,  the  liveliest  time  is 
during  the  Yeomanry  training  in  May. 

A  name  connected  with  Teignmouth  is  Winthrop 
Mackworth  Praed's,  whose  father  had  a  house  at  Bitton,  and 
is  buried  in  West  Teignmouth  churchyard.  Keats  spent  a 
winter  here,  and  his  Emiymion  is  dated  from  Teignmouth. 
Both  these  poets  have  celebrated  the  charms  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood ;  and  Fanny  Burney's  Journal  gives  a  lively 
account  of  "Tingmouth"  in  1773. 

Not  to  speak  of  boating  excursions,  the  neighbourhood 
abounds   in  delightful   rambles,   mostly   through    luxuriant 


60  EXCURSIONS    PROM    EXETER 

Devonshire  lanes,  by  which  one  mounts  to  the  open  slopes  of 
Haldon  behind. 

Towards  Dawlish,  we  have  already  spoken  of  the  walk  by  the 
sea-wall  and  up  the  Smugglers'  Steps  (p.  57).  To  the  left  of  the 
high  road,  above  the  "Parson  and  Clerk"  rocks  is  the  pretty  village 
of  Holcombe,  whose  Church  gives  excuse  for  a  Sunday  stroll  to 
wandering  sheep  both  from  Dawlish  and  Teignmouth.  From  the 
latter  it  can  be  reached  by  a  lane  and  paths  behind  the  cliffs. 

The  Little  Haldon  (p.  48)  rises  behind  the  town,  and  2  miles 
of  the  high  road  ascending  it  bring  one  to  a  height  of  about  800 
feet,  for  a  grand  prospect.  About  half  a  mile  north  here,  buried 
among  the  bog  and  copses,  is  the  ruined  chapel  of  Lidwell,  at 
which,  says  tradition,  lived  a  monk  who  had  the  way  of  robbing 
and  murdering  tourists  of  the  period,  and  throwing  their  bodies 
into  a  holy  well,  that  has  disappeared  as  if  in  resentment  for 
such  desecration.  This  spot  is  hard  to  find  ;  one  may  take  a  lane 
on  the  right  of  the  road  to  a  farm  adjoining,  and  there  seek 
directions.  Keeping  the  high  road  for  another  mile,  we  should 
come  at  the  second  crossway  to  Castle  Dyke,  an  earthwork  of 
dubious  origin,  by  which,  to  the  right,  the  way  past  Luscomhe 
(p.  56)  leads  down  to  Dawlish. 

At  the  joining  of  roads,  2  miles  out  of  Teignmouth  on  this  high 
way,  the  byway  to  the  left  leads  down  to  Bishopsteignton,  by 
some  remnants  of  the  Bishop's  Palace  that  once  stood  here. 

Bishopsteignton  is  2  miles  west  of  Teignmouth  above  the  estuary 
of  the  Teign.  An  omnibus  runs  to  it  from  Teignmouth  Station. 
The  Church  has  a  fine  Norman  doorway  and  other  fragments  of 
antiquity,  among  them  some  tombstones  overgrown  by  roses,  said 
to  cover  the  remains  of  victims  of  the  plague.  Here  is  "Huntley" 
a  popular  health  retreat,  where  hydropathy  and  other  treatment 
are  practised  among  very  pleasant  surroundings,  notably  the  woods 
of  Lindridge  Park,  a  mile  or  so  behind,  on  the  Haldon  slopes. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  river.  Combe  Cellars  (3  miles)  is  a  place 
for  picnics  and  for  the  refreshment  of  cockles  and  cream  at  its 
inn,  celebrated  in  Mr.  Baring  Gould's  novel  Kitty  Alone.  Above 
stands  the  village  of  Combe  in  Teignhead,  whose  Church  has  some 
elaborately  carved  bench  ends.  Above  this  is  the  tiny  parish  of 
Haccombe,  containing  little  more  than  the  mansion  and  the  early 
14th  century  Chapel,  which  displays,  crowded  in  small  space,  a 
remarkable  collection  of  ancient  monuments  of  the  Courtenays  and 
Carews.  On  the  door  are  the  remains  of  four  horse-shoes  said  to 
recall  a  feat  of  swimming  out  to  sea  on  horseback,  on  which  a  manor 
was  wagered  and  won.  Haccombe  Down  rises  over  500  feet. 
Across  it  southwards  there  is  a  fine  walk  of  some  half-dozen  miles 
to  Torquay.  Westward  one  can  turn  down  to  Newton  Abbot  (p. 
62),  or  eastward  find  another  way  back  to  Teignmouth  through 
Stoke  in  Teignhead,  which  also  has  an  interesting  old  church. 


TEIGNMOUTH  61 

On  the  direct  Torquay  Road,  round  the  Ness,  are  the  Labrador 
Tea  Gardens,  looking  out  upon  the  open  sea,  much  visited  for  their 
picturesque  situation,  and  for  strawberries  eaten  with  views  as 
well  as  cream. 

Teignmouth  to  Torquay  by  the  coast  road  (8  miles)  is  a  good 
walk,  especially  if  you  take  your  time  over  it  and  go  on  to 
Bahhicomhe  Bay  and  Anstey's  Cove.  Cross  the  bridge,  or  ferry 
across  the  stream  (saving  a  mile)  to  the  village  of  Shaldon,  whence 
it  is  a  sharp  climb  till  the  road  attains  a  level  considerably  above 
the  cliffs.  As  you  proceed,  a  beautiful  peep  reveals  itself  down  a 
valley  on  the  right,  opening  the  villages  of  Stoke-  and  Combe-in- 
Teignhead.  In  the  distance  are  the  bare  slopes  of  Dartmoor. 
Then  comes  a  rather  dull  stretch  of  road,  with  nothing  of  special 
interest,  except  to  those  who  scramble  up  and  down  by  the  verge 
of  the  cliffs,  broken  by  coves  and  rough  hollows  that  make  hard 
walking,  till  you  reach  8t.  Mary  Churchy  a  suburb  of  Torquay,  but  a 
parish  and  town  of  itself.  Here  the  way  to  Torquay  goes  down  to 
the  right.  On  the  left  are  the  shore  beauties  of  JVatcombe  and  Petit 
Tor.  Along  the  road  above  the  cliff  comes  a  terrace  overlooking 
Babbicombe  Bay,  where  the  red  sandstone  of  the  cliffs  has  changed 
to  variegated  limestone.  Here  we  are  within  the  confines  of  Tor- 
quay, reached  by  the  roundabout  railway  route  through  Newton 
Abbot,  and  fully  described  in  its  own  section  of  our  Guide. 

Teignmouth  is  well  situated  for  railway  excursions  to 
several  points,  through  the  junction  at  Newton  Ahhot^  to 
which  the  G.  W.  K  line  now  turus  up  the  Teign,  for  some 
miles  skirting  the  estuary  that,  even  at  low  tide,  when  it  is 
a  broad  waste  of  mud  given  up  to  cockle-hunters,  makes  a 
pretty  sight  between  its  green  banks.  It  is  crossed  by  the 
railway  a  little  short  of  Newton  Abbot,  which  stands  back 
upon  a  tributary  stream. 

The  road  (6  miles)  takes  a  line  above  the  rail,  about  a 
mile  out  of  Newton  Abbot  passing  the  village  of  Kings- 
teignton,  where  clay  works  are  the  most  prominent 
feature ;  but  it  has  a  large  1 4th  century  church,  containing 
a  singular  epitaph,  as  to  which  the  less  said  the  better. 

A  rather  longer  way  is  on  the  other  side  of  the  estuary, 
by  Shaldon,  Gomhe  in  Teignhead  and  under  Haccombe  Down, 
as  shown  above. 

When  the  tide  serves,  the  trip  up  to  Newton  Abbot  by 
boat  or  steam  launch  is  a  pleasant  one. 


62  laccuRSioNS  from  exeter 


NEWTON  ABBOT 

Hotels :    Globe,  Cormnercial,  in  the  town ;    Queen's,  Churchill's  Temperance, 
small  houses  near  the  station. 

There  are  scores  of  Newtons  and  Newtowns  in  England, 
among  which  this  one,  including  Newton  Abbot  and  Newton 
Bushel^  owes  its  importance  to  its  position  as  a  railway- 
junction  for  Torquay  on  one  side,  and  Moreton  Hampstead 
and  the  Teign  Valley  on  the  other,  the  main  line  running 
on  to  Plymouth.  Besides  its  large  railway  workshops,  it 
has  a  great  tannery  at  the  other  end,  and  men  employed  at 
the  adjacent  clay  works  of  Kingsteignton  help  to  bring  up 
its  population  to  about  17,000.  It  has  spread  itself  over 
the  adjoining  heights,  where  handsome  villas  contrast  with 
some  squalid  courts  and  alleys  in  the  lower  part. 

The  town  itself  is  not  without  historic  memorials.  Close  to  the 
station,  on  the  left  of  the  Torquay  road,  stands  Ford  House,  a 
former  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Devon,  having  iu  its  grounds  a  broad 
sheet  of  water.  Charles  I.  and  his  court  were  twice  entertained  at 
Ford,  and  here  William  of  Orange  made  his  headquarters  for  two 
days  in  November  1688.  The  base  of  the  Market  Cross  in 
Wolborough  Street  marks  the  spot  where  his  first  declaration  as 
King  of  England  was  read. 

The  station  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  town,  opposite  its 
Gourtenay  Park.  Thence  the  main  thoroughfare  winds  on 
for  more  than  half  a  mile  to  the  central  spot,  where  the 
cross  adjoins  an  ivied  tower,  all  that  is  left  of  the  church  of 
St.  Leonard's.  Into  this  line  the  road  from  Teignmouth  has 
debouched  on  the  right  some  way  back.  Turning  right  at 
the  tower  and  presently  passing  near  the  Post  Office  (in 
Market  Street  on  the  right)  a  street  goes  uphill,  at  St.  Mary's 
Church  dividing  as  the  roads  to  Bovey  Tracey  (right)  and  to 
Ashburton.  The  main  street  in  the  valley  becomes  the 
Totnes  Road,  on  which  is  passed  a  row  of  modern  alms- 
houses, and  on  a  height  to  the  left  the  Parish  Church  of 
Wolborough,  which  takes  the  place  of  that  demolished  one 


NEWTON    ABBOT  63 

by  the  cross.  It  has  a  good  south  door,  some  carved  oak  on 
screen  and  pews,  a  richly-ornamented  Norman  font,  much 
excellent  stained  glass,  and  a  marble  tomb  with  canopied 
effigies  to  Sir  Richard  Regnele  of  Ford  (died  1633),  and  the 
Lady  Lucy  his  wife.  High  week  Church,  which  stands  on 
a  hill  to  the  right  of  the  Bovey  Road  nearly  a  mile  from 
the  town,  also  contains  some  fine  windows :  this  is  the 
original  parish  of  Newton  Bushel. 

Though  Newton  Abbot,  lying  between  the  sea  and  Dart- 
moor, is  rather  a  place  of  coming  and  going  for  tourists  than 
a  resort,  it  well  deserves  more  familiarity,  surrounded  as  it 
is  by  fine  hill  and  woodland  scenery.  The  river,  hardly 
one  of  its  chief  attractions,  runs  outside  of  the  town,  reached 
by  a  turning  on  the  right  soon  after  one  leaves  the  station, 
where  a  tunnel  like  that  of  Posilippo  on  a  small  scale  leads 
to  the  Quay.  The  Teign  here  straggles  on  flat  ground,  in 
part  swamped  by  the  flow  of  the  tide,  and  near  it  is  a  canal, 
once  used  for  bringing  down  granite  from  the  quarries  of  Hay 
Tor,  now  as  conveyance  for  the  china  clay  that  makes  a 
staple  of  the  neighbourhood.  "Walks  by  these  channels  have 
at  least  prospects  of  the  heights  ;  and  a  path  round  the 
back  of  Knowles  Hill,  to  the  left  of  the  Teignmouth  road, 
looks  out  over  what  seems  a  great  delta,  where  a  pleasant  row 
may  be  taken  with  the  help  of  the  tide.  From  other 
heights  on  which  Newton  Abbot  goes  on  extending  itself, 
there  are  good  views  down  the  estuary ;  and  at  each  end  of 
the  town  a  stretch  of  beautiful  woods  lies  open. 


The  Milber  Woods  are  above  the  Torquay  road,  which  crosses 
the  railway  a  little  beyond  the  station.  Passing  in  front  of  Ford 
House,  we  turn  up  left  by  the  road  marked  Haccmnhe,  from  which 
presently  goes  off  right  the  old  Torquay  road  (marked  St.  Mary 
Church),  which  is  the  shortest  way  to  the  coast  (6  miles).  The 
first  stretch  of  this  road  in  a  «hollow  is  bordered  by  the  thick 
Milber  Woods,  through  which  run  paths,  or  on  the  right  side,  one 
may  pass  up  the  outer  edge  to  the  heath  above,  where  an  old  camp 
is  traced.  Turnings  left  lead  to  Haccombe  (p.  60),  the  road  from 
which  may  be  taken  back  down  the  other  side  of  the  woods.  To 
the  right,  we  gain  Coffinswell,  and  thence  could  come  down  to  the 
Torquay  high  road  near  the  Aller  art  pottery  works.  Any  way 
about  these  woods  makes  a  very  pretty  hour  or  two's  walk. 


64  9^<^^^8IONS    PROM    EXETER 

The  Bradley  Woods  at  the  other  end  of  the  town,  are  still  more 
beautiful,  rising  to  the  right  of  the  Totnes  road.  Just  beyond  the 
almshouses  one  takes  a  path  on  that  side  and  follows  a  little 
stream,  past  Bradley  Manor,  into  this  demesne,  where  one  can 
wander  on  for  more  than  a  mile. 

Turnings  left  here  lead  by  East  or  West  Ogwell,  on  to  Denbury 
Down  (500  feet),  where  there  is  an  elliptical  camp,  about  3  miles 
out  of  Newton  Abbot.  Holding  on  southwards  for  a  mile  or  two, 
one  comes  to  Tor  Bryan  and  to  Ippleden,  both  with  fine  churches, 
and  the  latter  with  marble  quarries  to  show.  From  any  of  those 
points,  ways  eastward  take  us  to  the  Totnes  Road,  a  little  off 
which,  a  mile  out  of  the  town,  is  Abbotskerswell,  which  has 
another  fine  church,  and  between  it  and  the  railway  an 
Augustinian  Priory,  whose  chapel  has  some  rich  decorations. 

To  the  right  of  the  Bradley  Woods  runs  the  road  over  Highweek 
Hill  to  Ashburton  (7  miles).  About  4  miles  out  on  the  right  of 
this  road,  is  the  village  of  Bickington,  with  a  good  church,  and  a 
very  picturesque  mill  on  the  Lemon,  the  little  stream  running 
down  hence  to  Newton  Abbot.  Short  of  this,  one  turns  up  by 
Telegraph  Hill  (640  feet)  to  the  village  of  Ilsington,  on  the  edge 
of  Dartmoor,  beyond  which  rises  Hay  Tor,  one  of  its  most  prominent 
points,  that  thus  makes  a  9  mile  walk  from  Newton  Abbot,  a  rather 
shorter  way  being  from  Stover  Park  on  the  Bovey  Tracey  road  ; 
and  the  pedestrian  might  trace  upwards  the  abandoned  tram  line 
to  the  quarries  of  Hay  Tor.  At  Ilsington  is  now  being  built  the 
Hay  Tor  Hotel  and  health  resort  (800  feet  above  the  sea),  about  3 
miles  from  Bovey  Tracey  station. 

These  are  only  slight  hints  for  the  exploration  of  a 
neighbourhood  that  has  many  other  points  deserving  to  be 
dwelt  on.  Torquay  (7  miles)  is  treated  in  the  next  section  of 
our  Devon  Guide.  Newton  Abbot  is  perhaps  best  known 
to  strangers  as  a  base  for  visits  to  Dartmoor,  easily  visited 
hence  by  several  lines  of  coach.  Besides  those  that  come 
from  Torquay,  Newton  Abbot  has  a  line  of  its  own,  running 
in  connection  with  morning  and  evening  trains,  each  day  by 
a  different  route,  for  which  handbills  may  be  consulted,  to 
Hay  Tor,  Bovey  Tracey,  Buckland  Beacon,  Holne  Chase,  Becky 
Falls,  and  other  lions  of  the  district.  Similar  enterprises 
are  worked  from  Bovey  Tracey  and  Lustleigh  stations  on  the 
branch  along  the  edge  of  Dartmoor. 


1 


TORQUAY 

Hotels:  Torbay,  opposite  the  harbour,  with  Cumper's  Private  Hotel  as  its 
dependence ;  Imperial,  on  a  height  overlooking  the  Bay ;  Victoria  and 
Albert,  and  Belgrave,  in  the  Torre  Valley  ;  Western,  at  the  station  ;  Osborne, 
2  miles  from  the  station,  near  the  Meadfoot  Sands  ;  Royal;  QiLeen's,  behind 
the  harbour,  Union,  Central,  Gibbon's  Commercial,  Jordan's  Temperance, 
Pavilion  Temperance,  in  the  business  streets  ;  Clarence,  at  Torre  station,  etc. 

Boarding-Houses :  Granville  Mansions,  Nepaul,  Petworth,  Kistor  House, 
Gresham's,  Roslin  Hall,  The  Boltons,  Savemake  Mansions,  Amalfi,  Sherwood 
House,  Elfordleigh,  Livernead  House,  Templestowe,  Sealawn,  Dudley  House, 
Richmond  Lodge,  Hill  Crest,  etc.  Torghatten,  at  Babbicome.  The  first 
mentioned  stands  high  on  the  hill  above  the  harbour ;  most  of  the  others 
are  in  the  valley  behind  Torquay  Station,  the  chief  quarters  for  such 
pensions.  They  are  here  arranged  in  something  like  order  of  seniority 
rather  than  of  importance  ;  and  since  new  establishments  of  the  kind  seem 
to  be  springing  up,  this  long  list  cannot  pretend  to  be  complete. 

Cabs.  Fares  Is.  per  half  mile  ;  Is.  6d.  per  mile,  a  rate  that  is  not  high  when 
we  consider  the  hills  and  winding  roads  that  have  to  be  dealt  with. 

Omnibuses  ivom.  the  hotels  would  take  passengers  to  central  parts  of  the  town. 
From  Torre  Station  start  omnibuses,  not  very  frequent,  to  Paignton  and 
to  St.  Mary  Church. 

Torquay  has  been  judged  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
towns  in  England  ;  but  its  picturesqueness  is  no  matter  of 
hoary  age,  nor  of  some  few  fragments  of  the  past  drowned 
in  a  tide  of  houses,  streets,  and  villas,  still  rising  over  the 
hills  that  cannot  confine  it  to  the  shore.  Its  prosperity 
rose  with  the  French  war,  when  the  families  of  naval  officers, 
often  stationed  in  Torbay,  began  to  settle  here.  The 
amenities  and  advantages  of  the  place  soon  became  widely 
known,  and  it  grew  in  the  irregular  way  forced  upon  it  by 
the  conformation  of  the  ground,  till  now,  for  its  population 
of  about  34,000,  it  is  said  to  cover  more  space  than  any 
town  in  the  country,  besides  having  more  money  to  spend. 
One  can  hardly  say,  indeed,  where  Torquay  begins  or  ends, 
so  many  suburbs  and  outlying  villages  has  it  taken  in  ;  but 
before  long  it  seems  likely  to  invade  the  whole  of  the  bold 
promontory  forming  the  north  end  of  Torbay,  from  which  it 

6 


66  ♦  TORQUAY 

appears  a  maze  of  woods,  quarries,  parks,  and  gardens, 
mixed  with  houses  and  streets,  almost  wherever  they  can  be 
built.  These  buildings  gather  thickest  on  and  under  the 
three  hills  around  the  harbour,  which  may  be  considered  as 
the  nucleus  of  Torquay.  In  the  valley  through  which  the 
railway  runs,  the  Torre  Abbey  suburb  occupies  less  irregular 
ground  ;  but  most  parts  of  the  town  are  not  to  be  attained 
without  climbing.  Some  are  reached,  as  a  short  cut,  by 
public  stairways,  which  prove  trying  to  feeble  limbs.  A  lift 
would  be  of  little  use  here,  as  there  is  not  one  eminence  to 
surmount,  but  many,  each  with  its  more  or  less  loftily  planted 
dwellings.  Vehicles  come  naturally  into  great  demand  ; 
and  horses  to  the  manner  born  make  light  of  Torquay's 
steeps  and  turns.  But  London  horses,  brought  here,  are 
found  inclined  to  strike  against  the  jobs  they  may  be  put 
to  by  masters  lolling  at  ease  to  enjoy  the  fine  prospects 
opened  up  on  these  winding  ascents.  The  small  flies  known 
as  "  midges,"  seem  to  be  going  out  of  use. 

Torquay's  character  as  a  haven  for  invalids  has  had  the 
effect  of  keeping  away  summer  visitors,  though,  in  fact,  it  is 
by  no  means  so  hot,  especially  on  the  heights,  as  is  supposed. 
Our  south  coast,  while  warmer  in  winter,  is  often  correspond- 
ingly cooler  in  summer  ;  and  at  this  season  Torquay  appears 
to  be  coming  of  late  into  more  favour,  though  it  is  hardly 
suited  for  a  family  bathing-place,  where  Paterfamilias  can 
wear  out  his  old  clothes,  and  the  children  dabble  about  in  no 
clothes  to  speak  of.  For  swimmers,  at  least,  there  are 
excellent  bathing  facilities,  which  we  detail  below.  The 
many  excursions  to  be  taken  here  should  be  an  attraction  in 
the  summer  season ;  and  the  town  is  then  set  off  by  all  its 
wealth  of  green.  In  early  summer  and  in  autumn,  when 
Torquay  is  most  deserted,  it  often  wears  its  pleasantest 
aspect. 

It  is  in  winter  and  early  spring,  of  course,  that  Torquay 
has  its  regular  season,  recommended  by  the  climate  so  well 
known  as  mild,  rather  moist,  relaxing,  and  soothing,  due 
to  its  peninsular  situation,  sheltered  from  all  winds  but  the 
south-east.  Young  people  of  delicate  constitutions,  and  old 
people   suffering  from   irritable  air-passages,  do   well   here, 


CLIMATE  67 

many  of  the  former  being  able  to  outgrow  their  weakness, 
while  the  latter  may  have  their  days  prolonged  in  genial 
surroundings.  Torquay  seems  rather  sensitive  about  its 
rainfall,  which  is  undoubtedly  considerable,  though  it 
claims  not  to  be  so  wet  as  some  places  on  this  coast;  the 
vicinity  of  two  rivers,  the  Dart  and  the  Teign,  no  doubt 
drawing  off  some  of  the  clouds.  One  must  always  be  prepared 
for  considerable  stretches  of  soft  muggy  weather,  when  people 
may  be  seen  going  about  with  their  umbrellas  up  from  force 
of  habit,  as  revilers  declare.  The  sub-tropical  vegetation 
speaks  plainly  for  the  climate's  general  effect. 

We  are  not  going  to  enter  into  vexed  controversies 
between  Torquay  and  Ventnor  on  one  side,  and  Falmouth  or 
Penzance  on  the  other,  as  to  comparative  mean  temperature 
and  range.  Fogs  are  rare  on  the  limestone  rocks  of  Torquay  ; 
but  it  would  be  easy  to  get  ourselves  into  a  fog  over 
meteorological  tables  and  other  statistics,  handled,  as  they  are 
apt  to  be,  in  the  interests  of  rival  watering-places.  Mr. 
Norris,  the  popular  novelist,  who  has  made  his  home  here, 
puts  the  matter  somewhat  bluntly,  that  in  winter  Torquay 
is  a  little  less  cold  than  the  rest  of  England.  It  can  be 
frosty  and  snowy  enough  in  January  or  March,  like  other 
places  ;  but  it  is  more  likely  than  most  to  enjoy  a  good 
share  of  sunshine  on  its  sheltered  nooks.  We  leave  it  to  the 
medical  profession  to  enlarge  or  qualify  the  statement  that 
Torquay  is  one  of  the  most  favoured  of  our  winter  resorts, 
while  its  hilly  configuration  gives  a  variety  of  more  or  less 
mildness  and  invigoratingness,  since  observations  taken  here 
at  three  points  within  two  miles  show  a  considerable  differ- 
ence of  temperature.  The  warmest  and  coldest  parts  vary 
from  five  to  eight  degrees,  even  more  in  the  summer  time. 

Most  of  the  hotels  are  in  the  sheltered  quarter  by  the 
shore  ;  and  the  boarding-houses  generally  keep  near  the 
same  region,  their  winter  patrons  preferring  what  may  be 
called  the  characteristic  climate  of  Torquay.  But  those 
naking  some  stay  here  will  have  no  difiiculty  in  finding 
airier  regions,  especially  at  St.  Mary  Church,  which  stands 
high  towards  the  eastern  neck  of  the  peninsula.  On  the 
farther  side  Babbicombe  looks  out  full  to  the  east  over  a 


68  •  TORQUAY 

lofty  cliff,  exposed  to  cold  winds  even  in  early  summer. 
Fresh  air  has  come  so  much  into  fashion  now  that  on  this 
more  bracing  side,  though  two  or  three  miles  from  any 
railway  station,  the  town  is  quickly  developing,  St.  Mary 
Church  and  Babbicombe  having  been  joined  to  Torquay, 
which  now  incorporates  them  as  well  as  Cockington,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  station.  In  those  new  quarters  and  in  the 
hollows  between — for  instance  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
EUacombe  Green — many  small  and  cheap  houses  will  be 
found,  while  the  general  style  of  the  buildings  bespeaks 
owners  or  tenants  in  easy  circumstances.  The  price  of  the 
better-class  houses  seems  to  have  declined  of  late — a  fact 
probably  connected  with  the  change  in  medical  opinion  as 
to  the  treatment  of  consumption  by  climate,  and  one  hinting 
that  in  the  future  Torquay  must  look  to  its  constituency  of 
pleasure-seekers  as  much  as  to  the  invalids,  who  have  been 
its  chief  patrons. 

A  resort  of  well-to-do  idlers  as  it  largely  is,  Torquay  cannot 
be  ill  off  for  amusements.  It  wants,  indeed,  such  a  palace 
of  pleasure  as  is  thought  necessary  in  most  resorts  of  the 
kind.  The  ambitious  scheme  for  a  Kursaal  has  fallen 
through  ;  the  Winter  Garden  has  for  years  been  "to  let"  ; 
and  Blackpool  or  Scarborough  would  despise  the  small 
pavilion  where  music  is  provided  on  the  Princess  Pier.  The 
Bath  Saloon,  however,  well  represents  the  more  old-fashioned 
type  of  rendezvous,  where  and  elsewhere  concerts,  etc.,  are 
given.  There  is  a  Theatre  off  the  main  street.  Boating 
and  fishing  are  good  and  safe,  unless  perhaps  when  a  south- 
east wind  blows  into  the  bay.  The  dull  autumn  season 
sees  a  stir  of  yachting  in  this  fine  haven.  A  notable  regatta 
is  held  in  August,  when  Paignton,  Brixham,  and  other 
neighbours  also  amuse  themselves  in  the  same  fashion. 
There  are  steeple -chases  at  Petit  Tor  in  spring.  The 
Torquay  cricket  week  in  August  is  of  wide  repute.  The 
Torquay  harriers  meet  twice  a  week  in  the  season,  and  there 
is  more  than  one  pack  of  fox  hounds  in  the  neighbourhood. 
Besides  more  ordinary  games,  polo  can  be  played  on  Torre 
Abbey  Sands,  Babbicombe  Down  makes  a  nine-hole  golf 
course,  and  there  is  a  larger  one  a  few  miles  off  at  Churston. 


THE  TOWN  69 

A  racket-court  will  be  found  on  the  Victoria  Parade.  The 
flower  shows  of  the  Horticultural  Society  are  here  in  their 
element.  A  Recreation  Ground  has  been  formed  near  the 
station,  less  indeed  for  public  use  than  as  an  arena  for  the 
athletic  displays  which  draw  gate-money;  but  there  are 
several  public  parks  and  greens  opening  among  the  private 
grounds  that  make  so  much  of  Torquay's  scenery. 

THE  TOWN 

As  one  of  the  defects  of  its  qualities,  Torquay  is  such 
an  intricate  place  that  our  description  of  it  must  be  less 
systematic  than  we  could  wish.  If  this  invertebrate  town 
have  any  backbone,  it  is  Union  Street^  winding  behind  the 
gardened  hill -face  over  the  harbour,  almost  from  Torre 
Statipn  to  the  Town  Hall,  then  by  Fleet  Street  descending  to 
the  Strand  at  the  back  of  the  inner  basin  and  terminating 
at  a  central  opening,  above  which,  by  Torwood  Street,  goes 
off  the  Babbicombe  Road.  In  this  long  thoroughfare  most  of 
the  shops  seem  to  concentrate  themselves.  From  it,  and 
other  streets  in  the  valley,  curved  or  zigzag  roads  and 
steep  flights  of  stairs  lead  up  to  the  heights,  where  houses 
are  only  more  widely  spaced,  and  long  lines  of  villas  stretch 
across  the  slopes  of  the  promontory  almost  to  St.  Mary 
Church  and  the  cliffs  of  Babbicombe. 

One  good  level  road,  seldom  free  from  a  coming  and 
going  of  cabs  and  omnibuses,  leads  round  the  shore  from  the 
station  to  the  harbour.  This  is  bordered  by  a  cliff,  on  which 
run  the  Upper  and  Lower  Rock  Walks  and  Terrace^  very 
prettily  laid  out  with  flowers  and  greenery.  Then,  on  the' 
seaward  side,  comes  another  garden  by  the  Princess  Pier, 
enclosing  the  harbour  on  the  west.  The  valley  behind  the 
harbour  contains  the  Public  Gardens,  lying  beyond  the 
Post  Office  at  the  beginning  of  the  Babbicombe  Road.  In 
this  sheltered  situation,  also,  has  been  built  a  Winter 
Garden  ;  but  at  present  it  stands  desolate,  Torquay,  perhaps, 
taking  itself  to  be  all  Winter  Garden.  Across  the  harbour, 
at  the  entrance  of  the  Haldon  Pier,  stands  a  building  known 
as  the  Baths,  which  might  rather  be  called  Assembly  Rooms, 
containing  two  large  halls,  one  used  as  a  ballroom,  one  as  a 


70  *  TORQUAY 

skating  rink,  and  other  accommodations.  There  are  baths  to 
be  had  here,  but  the  swimming  bath,  such  as  it  was,  has  been 
done  away  with. 

Bathing.  At  the  back  of  the  Baths  building,  reached  through 
the  Pier  gate,  is  a  covered  dressing  place  for  men,  with  diving 
boards,  etc.  (Id.  and  2d, ).  Close  to  this  will  be  seen  the  entrance 
to  the  Ladies'  Bathing-Place  in  a  sheltered  cove.  A  little  farther 
on,  reached  by  a  lane  round  the  Imperial  Hotel,  is  the  Peak  Tor 
Cow,  fitted  up  with  boxes,  diving  boards,  etc.,  for  swimmers,  which 
makes  a  capital  bathing-place  at  almost  all  states  of  the  tide,  open  free, 
but  two  or  three  pence  are  expected  by  the  attendant  for  use  of 
box,  towels,  etc.  There  is  bathing  still  farther  along,  on  the 
Meadfoot  Sands,  where  machines  are  provided  for  ladies  ;  also  on 
Oddicombe  Beach  below  Babbicombe  Downs,  and  at  Anstey's  Cove. 
Ladies  are  accommodated  in  the  bay  beyond  the  Torquay  station  ; 
and  men  may  bathe  mornings  and  evenings,  when  the  tide  permits, 
from  the  Tor  Abbey  Sands,  below  the  Station  Road,  or  from  the 
sea-wall  in  the  bay  beyond. 

There  are  several  fine  Churches  in  the  town,  the  chief  one 
St.  John's,  by  Street,  which  stands  above  the  harbour  and 
has  the  peculiar  feature  of  a  Baptistery  for  immersion, 
and  some  notable  mosaics.  It  is  Early  English  in  style, 
admired  by  some,  not  by  all ;  and  the  services  are  high. 
That  of  St.  Mary  Church  has  been  rebuilt  in  the  same  style, 
but  is  in  some  respects  thrown  into  the  shade  by  the 
Roman  Catholic  church  near  it.  All  Saints,  Babbicombe, 
also  Early  English,  is  a  beautiful  building  richly  ornamented 
with  marbles  from  the  adjacent  quarries,  as  are  several 
churches  in  this  neighbourhood.  The  Mother  Church  of 
Torquay,  restored  and  enlarged,  containing  monuments  of 
the  Cary  family,  is  at  Tor  Mohun,  a  little  way  above  the 
railway. 

Kent's  Hole  is  a  chief  lion  of  Torquay,  the  cavern  in  which 
many  prehistoric  remains  have  been  found,  which  are  to  be  seen 
at  the  Museum,  a  little  way  above  the  Post-Office  (open  free 
on  Saturday  afternoons,  at  other  times  a  charge  of  Is.).  Be- 
sides the  results  of  Mr.  Pengelley's  excavations,  it  has  a  good 
collection  of  the  animals,  sea-weeds,  etc.,  of  Devonshire. 

The  Cavern  itself  is  at  Ilsham,  towards  the  opposite  shore  of  the 
promontory,  over  a  mile  from  the  Post-Office,  past  which  must  be 


THE    TORRE    VALLEY  71 

followed  the  Babbicombe  Road,  till  a  direction  board  shows  a  turn 
to  the  right.  A  minimum  charge  of  Is.  6d.  for  admission  is  made, 
reduced  in  the  case  of  a  party.  Entrance  is  obtained  through  a 
low  and  narrow  passage  into  a  cavern,  said  to  be  600  feet  in  length, 
opening  upon  a  labyrinth  oi  smaller  caverns  and  winding  corridors. 
The  roofs  glitter  with  stalactites,  formed  by  the  dripping  of  water 
charged  with  carbonate  of  lime,  and  the  floor  is  coated  Avith  slip- 
pery stalagmite.  A  deep,  dark,  and  cold  pool  terminates  the  cavern. 
Here,  in  our  own  generation,  were  brought  to  light  the  bones 
of  the  rhinoceros  and  elephant,  the  lion,  wolf,  bear,  and  hyena, 
once  native  here,  deposited  upon  the  bed  of  the  cavern  to  a  depth 
of  20  feet,  overlaid  by  a  layer  of  stalagmite.  Mingled  with  them 
lay  arrow-heads  and  spear -headvS,  charcoal,  fragments  of  coarse 
pottery,  and  knives  of  flint — relics  famous  as  having  had  a  most 
important  bearing  on  the  question  of  man's  antiquity.  Other 
deposits  of  the  kind  were  also  found  in  the  caves  at  Brixham 
(p.  79). 

The  Torre  Valley,  leading  up  from  the  sea,  between  the 
station  and  the  town,  is  one  of  the  easiest  ways  to  explore 
the  environs.  The  gardens  of  Torre  Abbey,  seat  of  the  Carys, 
close  to  the  station,  enclose  ivy-shrouded  ruins  of  the  old 
Prsemonstratensian  Abbey,  founded  by  William  de  Bruere  in 
1196,  which  was  the  wealthiest  priory  belonging  to  that 
order  in  England.  The  refectory  is  now  used  as  a  chapel. 
To  the  south  of  the  beautiful  pointed  arch  gateway  is  a  1 3th 
century  building  known  as  the  Spanish  Barn,  since  it  was 
used  to  confine  Armada  prisoners.  These  ruins  are  not  open 
to  the  public. 

Higher  up  the  valley,  near  Torre  Station,  stands  St. 
Michael's  Chapel,  an  ancient  shrine,  which,  from  its  position 
on  an  eminence,  still  serves  as  a  sea-mark,  as  for  a  local  ob- 
servatory station  of  much  interest  to  amateur  meteorologists. 
The  hillside  here,  above  the  Newton  Road,  is  laid  out  with 
woods  and  winding  walks  as  a  public  pleasure  ground,  and 
may  be  recommended  for  a  short  stroll,  which  might  be  con- 
tinued by  the  reservoir  behind  to  the  Cricket  Field,  where  the 
spacious  Pavilion,  overgrown  with  creepers,  makes  quite  a 
sight  in  its  way.  A  little  farther  up  is  the  beautiful  Cemetery 
with  its  many  fine  memorials.  Good  view^s  may  be  had  by 
holding  on  the  road  to  Barton,  turning  right  to  the  sea  at 
Watcombe  (p.  75),  or  left  to  the  railway  at  Kingskerswell, 


72  «  TORQUAY 

a  long  straggling  village  with  a  restored  Churcli,  from  which 
it  is  4  miles  back  to  the  town. 

In  the  lower  part  of  the  Torre  Valley,  a  notable  Bosery 
and  other  nurseries  are  worth  a  visit.  More  than  one  of  the 
private  gardens  of  Torquay  are  celebrated,  but  of  them  we 
have  no  right  to  speak. 

Cockington  is  the  quarter,  west  of  the  railway,  where 
the  swelling  land  has  of  late  years  been  cut  up  by  villas 
and  roads  coming  down  to  the  sea  at  Livermead  Bay,  beyond 
the  little  promontory  laid  out  as  a  park  below  the  station. 
By  these  suburban  roads,  then  by  a  true  Devonshire  lane  not 
yet  spoiled  by  the  builder,  about  a  mile  inland,  is  reached 
the  old  hamlet  in  a  shady  hollow,  where  its  thatched 
cottages  look  unconscious  how  they  are  threatened  with 
being  swallowed  up  in  the  growth  of  the  town.  At  the 
smithy,  one  turns  up  to  the  gate  of  the  park,  in  which  a 
noble  avenue  leads  to  Cockington  Court,  and  opposite  it,  on  a 
wooded  knoll,  the  ivied  old  Church  with  a  beautiful  screen 
and  carved  benches.  The  shortest  way  to  this  spot  is 
from  Torquay  Station,  but  one  is  so  apt  to  go  wrong  among 
the  new  roads,  that  it  might  be  better  to  keep  on  the 
Paignton  Road  to  Livermead  Bay  and  there  turn  up 
Cockington  Lane. 

Two  miles  beyond  Cockington,  westward  by  road  or  path,  we 
can  gain  Marldon,  also  with  an  interesting  Church.  A  little  way 
to  the  north  of  it  is  Compton  Castle,  now  used  in  part  as  a  farm- 
house, so  well  preserved  as  to  be  one  of  the  sights  of  the  neighbour- 
hood. It  displays  a  series  of  projections,  technically  known  as 
machicoulis,  through  the  openings  of  which  hostile  visitors  might 
be  treated  to  a  hot  reception.  The  chapel  and  the  priest's  room 
over  it  are  fairly  perfect,  the  latter  furnished  with  hagioscopes  for 
a  view  of  the  altar.  The  greater  portion  of  the  surrounding  wall 
still  remains,  and  there  are  traces  of  the  portcullis  defending  the 
postern  gate.  Here  lived  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert,  the  Elizabethan 
navigator. 

About  as  far  to  the  south-west  of  Marldon,  "Westerland  Beacon 
(600  feet),  beside  the  road  to  Totnes,  offers  a  fine  view,  from  which 
one  may  descend  to  Paignton  (p.  77),  or,  on  the  other  side,  to 
Pomeroy  Castle  (p.  84).  Windmill  Hill,  on  the  Paington  Road,  is 
another  good  prospect  point,  100  feet  lower. 


THE  PENINSULA  73 

ROUND  THE  PENINSULA  TO  BABBICOMBE,  ETC. 

Before  going  farther  afield,  let  us  visit  some  beautiful 
spots  which  almost  make  part  of  the  town.  This  may  best 
be  done  by  taking  a  turn  round  the  whole  promontory,  end- 
ing at  Hope's  Nose,  so  as  to  reach  the  opposite  coast  of 
this  peninsula,  some  two  miles  broad  behind  Torquay  proper, 
though  some  of  the  devious  ways  would  make  the  distance 
rather  more.  The  main  thoroughfares  across  are  the  Babhi- 
combe  and  St,  Mary  Church  EoadSy  between  which  stands 
Warherry  Hill,  the  highest  point  (450  feet),  giving  a  good 
view  of  the  whole  district. 

Beyond  the  Imperial  Hotel,  as  continuation  of  the  lane 
leading  to  the  Bathing  Cove,  is  a  short  but  very  pleasant  sea 
walk  with  seats  and  a  good  look-out  over  grand  rocks.  This 
soon  comes  to  an  end  ;  and  to  gain  the  coast  again  we  must 
return  to  mount  upwards  between  the  walls  of  private  para- 
dises, which  somewhat  provokingly  shut  in  the  view,  keeping 
always  as  close  to  the  shore  as  may  be,  till  we  emerge  on  the 
common  of  Daddy  Hole  Plain,  200  feet  above  the  sea.  From 
the  tangled  knoll  to  the  right  of  the  road  our  view  is  now 
extended  over  the  Meadford  Sands  and  the  cliffs  beyond, 
towards  which  we  descend,  coming  into  a  very  polite  part  of 
Torquay,  where  Hesketh  Crescent  and  the  Osborne  Hotel  are 
conspicuous  features.  Meadfoot  Road,  turning  to  the  right 
opposite  the  Post-Office,  is  a  somewhat  more  direct  way  to 
this  suburb. 

Here,  unless  bound  only  for  a  bathe  on  the  Meadfoot 
Sands,  we  have  our  choice  of  holding  upwards  by  the  fine 
Lincombe  Drive,  which  winds  across  to  Kent's  Cavern,  through 
another  public  park  looking  down  on  the  Ilsham  valley,  or 
of  following  the  sea-wall  road  round  Meadfoot  Sands,  to  make 
the  same  point  by  turning  up  this  valley,  that  cuts  off  the 
last  swell  of  the  promontory,  where  now  at  last  we  are  clear 
of  Torquay's  streets  and  roads.  But  it  will  add  only  two  or 
three  miles  more  to  the  walk  to  keep  right  round,  either  by 
the  Ilsham  Drive  (closed  to  carriages  on  Tuesdays  and 
Thursdays)  or  hugging  the  rocky   shore    by  more    devious 


74  »  TORQUAY 

foot-tracks.  Thus  we  reach  Hope's  Nose,  the  extreme  point, 
off  which  lie  some  picturesquely  rugged  islands.  Still  by 
the  lower  path  or  by  the  commanding  drive  above,  we  come 
round  to  Ilsham,  where  the  road  strikes  more  directly  down 
past  Anstey's  Gove,  while  the  path,  taking  on  breadth  and 
dignity  as  the  Bishop's  Walk,  keeps  along  the  cliff  side  by 
rocks  and  copses  "for  whispering  lovers  made"  and  other 
wayfarers  in  no  hurry  to  be  done  with  its  embowered  nooks, 

Anstey's  Cove,  to  which  we  scramble  down  through  a 
leafy  dell,  is  a  deep  rugged  recess  in  the  cliffs,  at  the  bottom 
of  which  stand  a  refreshment  room,  a  boat-house,  and  two 
or  three  bathing  machines,  marking  one  of  the  most  admired 
nooks  about  Torquay.  Beyond  curves  an  opener  bay,  also 
backed  with  a  high  bank  of  greenery,  cut  off  from  the  cove 
by  a  point  of  jagged  rocks,  over  which,  when  the  tide  is  not 
too  high,  we  can  pass  from  one  to  the  other  by  help  of 
ladders.  Above,  near  the  entrance  to  the  cove,  is  now  dis- 
played that  board  of  doggerel  verses  which  has  made  copy 
for  so  many  guide  books  ;  below,  the  refreshment  room  ex- 
hibits a  still  more  comic  Latin  version  of  the  same. 

From  the  lane  at  the  head  of  the  cove,  a  pleasant  path 
may  be  taken  up  a  wooded  hillside,  which  leads  back  to 
the  road,  thus  on  to  where  the  Babbicombe  Koad  turns  left 
for  the  centre  of  the  town.  To  the  right,  this  goes  on  to 
Babbicombe,  about  a  mile,  passing  under  Bishopstowe,  an 
Italianesque  mansion  among  trees,  the  marine  villa  of  a 
Bishop  of  Exeter  in  days  when  Bishops  could  afford  to  be 
luxurious.  But  very  soon  we  are  tempted  to  turn  off  through 
a  gate  on  the  right,  where  a  direction  board  marks  the  path 
that  will  carry  us  more  agreeably  across  the  downs  used  as 
golf  links  and  rifle  range. 

Babbicombe  Bay  takes  a  wide,  bold  sweep,  shut  in  by  a 
high  cliff,  its  face  and  edge  tastefully  laid  out  with  walks 
and  gardens.  From  the  top  there  is  a  grand  view,  wider 
than  from  any  point  of  Torquay,  with  the  advantage  that 
here  one  usually  has  the  light  at  one's  back,  to  look  down  on 
the   varied  tints  of  the  bay,  the  variegated  cliffs,   the  red 


THE  BABBICOMBE  SIDE  75 

scaurs  wreatlied  with  foliage  beyond,  the  white  strand  melt- 
ing into  green  and  blue  depths  below  ;  then  farther  out,  the 
sparkling  sea  edged  by  reaches  of  green-topped  coast,  which 
can  be  traced  sometimes  as  far  as  Portland  Bill,  only  that  is 
a  sign  of  rain,  and  rain  from  the  east  has  a  trick  of  lasting, 
so  let  us  be  well  content  with  a  less  extended  prospect.  One 
of  the  beauties  of  this  corner  is  that  at  the  end  of  Babbicombe 
Bay  the  limestone  and  marble  cliffs  pass  into  the  glowing 
red  sandstone,  continued  on  to  Dawlish  and  reflected  from 
the  other  side  of  the  Exe  estuary. 

The  Babbicombe  cliff  is  now  thickly  fringed  with  houses, 
in  the  centre  of  which  stands  the  Royal  Hotel.  A  zigzag 
road  down  to  the  little  pier,  at  the  south  end,  brings  us  to 
the  Gary  Arms,  nestling  snugly  below.  By  the  road  beside 
the  Koyal  Hotel,  bearing  to  the  left,  or  by  a  rough  lane  a 
little  farther  down,  on  the  way  back  to  Anstey's  Cove,  we 
might  strike  across  the  pine -clad  summit  of  Warberry 
Hill,  to  descend  into  the  centre  of  Torquay.  (The  same 
path  is  found  in  the  other  direction  by  keeping  up  to  the 
right  of  Ellacomhe  Green^  at  the  head  of  Market  Street,  and 
skirting  a  patch  of  allotment  gardens  till  the  wood  is 
reached.) 

Having  come  so  far,  however,  we  may  as  well  go  on  past 
St.  Mary  Church,  by  a  road  winding  back  from  the  sea-front 
of  Babbicombe.  Opposite  the  Church,  a  road  leads  down  to 
the  next  little  bay  of  Petit  Tor,  and  its  quarry  of  richly 
coloured  marble,  which  might  also  be  gained  by  scrambling 
paths  from  the  end  of  Oddicombe  Beach,  the  north  side  of 
Babbicombe  Bay.  A  marine  drive  has  been  designed  here  ; 
but  at  present  one  passes  on  by  a  walk  above  the  shore. 

Beyond  Petit  Tor,  comes  Watcombe,  with  its  "Giant 
Rocks,"  and  horse -shoe  landslip  "so  full  of  hillocks  and 
hollows,  ridges  and  rocks,  coated  with  the  softest  turf, 
here  smooth  and  open,  there  filled  with  a  dense  growth  of 
brambles,  ferns,  rushes,  and  a  miscellaneous  tangle,  that  for 
the  moment  we  fancy  it  the  most  romantic  scene  of  all." 
Watcomhe  Park  is  celebrated  for  its  rich  display  of  conifers. 

From  Watcombe,  unless  one  were  inclined  to  walk   on 


76  «  TORQUAY 

along  the  coast  to  Teignmouth  (8  miles),  a  return  can  be 
made  by  an  inland  valley  road  to  the  top  of  Union  Street. 
But  we  might  rather  choose  the  road  through  St.  Mary 
Clmrch,  to  visit  the  fine  churches  already  mentioned,  and 
the  marble  and  terra-cotta  works,  which  are  the  only 
industries  this  district  much  concerns  itself  with,  beyond  the 
curing  of  weak  lungs.  The  terra-cotta  is  got  from  a  clay 
deposit  at  Watcombe  ;  and  almost  all  the  promontory  is  one 
huge  marble  quarry,  rich  in  madrepore  fossils.  The  road 
from  St.  Mary  Church  (2  m.),  goes  mostly  down  hill,  leading 
us  into  the  middle  of  Union  Street,  below  the  height  known 
as  the  Castle. 


EXCURSIONS  FROM   TORQUAY 

Let  us  now  enumerate  the  facilities  for  excursions  offered 
by  Torquay,  which  are  unusually  varied. 

The  G.  W.  R.  helps  us  to  many  outings  on  its  own  line,  as  in 
connection  with  boats  and  coaches,  by  which  round  trip  tickets  are 
given.  Cheap  fares  are  especially  to  be  looked  for  on  Wednesday, 
the  early  closing  day  at  Torquay.  The  excursion  programmes  of 
this  company  should  be  consulted. 

Coach  trips  are  at  present  offered  by  rival  undertakings ; 
one  starting  on  whole  and  half-day  drives  from  the  Strand, 
Torquay,  one  from  Newton  Abbot,  and  one  from  Bovey  Tracey  on 
the  Moreton  Hampstead  branch,  the  two  latter  in  connection  with 
Torquay  trains.  The  excursions  from  the  town  deal  naturally 
rather  with  the  beautiful  spots  about  it,  but  sometimes  are  pusheo 
on  to  the  skirts  of  Dartmoor,  which  is  more  deeply  penetrated  by 
the  Bovey  Tracey  and  Newton  coaches,  each  day  taking  a  different 
route,  as  will  be  seen  by  their  prospectuses. 

Steamboat  trips  are  to  be  had  daily  by  the  "  Duke  "  and 
the  "  Duchess  of  York  "  steamers,  which,  hailing  from  Exmouth, 
ply  along  the  coast  on  either  hand,  and  may  be  said  to  have 
Torquay  for  their  headquarters.  These  excursions  are  extended  in 
one  direction  to  Salcombe  and  Plymouth  ;  in  the  other  sometimes 
as  far  as  Bournemouth  ;  but  passengers  must  remember  that  they 
depend  on  the  weather  for  landing  at  places  like  Sidraouth  and 
Slapton  Sands,  where  is  no  harbour  ;  some  piers,  too,  on  this 
coast  not  being  easily  approachable  in  certain  winds.  A  favourite 
trip,  when  the  tide  serves,  is  to  Dartmouth,  connecting  with  the 
river  boats  on  the  Dart. 


TORQUAY  DISTRICT 


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TO  PAIGNTON  AND  DARTMOUTH  77 

The  steam  launch,  which  runs  regularly  across  the  bay  to  Paign- 
ton, twice  a  week  extends  its  voyages  to  Brixham  at  the  farther 
end.  Sailing  yachts  and  boats  are  also  available  for  navigating 
this  landlocked  sheet. 

Finally,  carriages  of  all  kinds,  with  horses  quite  used  to  the 
ups  and  downs  of  their  native  soil,  are  always  ready  to  take 
visitors  to  beautiful  spots  far  and  near,  the  fares  on  such  drives 
being  calculated  at  3s.  the  first  hour  and  Is.  3d.  each  other  half 
hour,  or  Is.  a  mile  and  half- fare  back  to  distant  places,  for  an 
ordinary  one  horse  fly,  while  the  small  "midges"  may  be  had 
at  a  lower  rate.  For  distant  drives  it  is  well  to  make  an  arrange- 
ment. 

We  cannot  here  undertake  to  guide  strangers  over  Dart- 
moor or  the  valley  of  the  Exe,  for  which  other  sections  of 
our  Devon  Guide  must  be  consulted.  But  we  give  in  detail 
some  account  of  the  country  between  the  Teign  and  the 
Kingsbridge  Creek,  which  may  be  called  Torquay's  own 
district,  and  for  the  most  part  belongs  to  that  part  of 
Devon  styled  the  Soutli  Hams,  a  rich  and  varied  stretcli  of 
undulating  ground  between  Dartmoor  and  the  sea. 

The  favourite  round  trip  is  by  the  Dart  steamers  between 
Totnes  and  Da/rtmouthy  both  these  places  reached  by  rail  from 
Torquay. 

TORQUAY  TO  THE  DART 

This  excursion  is  made  in  either  direction  through  Totnes  or 
Dartmouth.  The  steamers  run  twice  a  day,  according  to  tide, 
by  studying  which,  in  connection  with  railway  time  tables,  one  is 
often  able,  starting  early,  to  spend  an  hour  or  two  in  these  towns 
on  the  way.     (Third  class  fare  for  the  roimd  2s.  9d. ) 

Let  us  take  the  trip  first  by  way  of  Dartmouth,  so  as  to  bring 
in  several  places  sure  to  be  visited  from  Torquay.  There  are 
frequent  trains  as  far  as  Kingswear,  the  terminus  (9  miles),  with 
plenty  of  room  in  most  of  them,  as  so  many  passengers  get  out  at 
Torquay.  The  first  station  is  at  a  place  which  some  day  seems 
likely  to  run  into  its  larger  neighbour. 


PAIGNTON 

Hotels  :  Esplanade .-  Gerston,  Broadmtad;  at  station  ;  Commercial,  in  town. 

Paignton  might  well  object  to  being  belittled  as  a  satellite 
of  Torquay,  now  that  out  of  a  quiet  fishing  village  it  has 


78  TORQUAY 

grown  into  such  favour  as  a  bathing-place,  that  its  population 
must  be  counted  by  thousands,  augmented  by  hundreds  of 
nurseries  in  the  season.  Standing  on  an  open  shore,  this 
place  is  preferred  by  some,  even  for  winter  quarters,  as  less 
shut  in  ;  and  if  Paignton,  smart  and  new  for  the  most  part, 
with  a  more  conventional  aspect,  wants  the  bolder  features  of 
Torquay,  it  commands  a  fine  view  of  them  across  the  bay, 
while  it  has  what  Torquay  lacks,  except  at  its  extreme  ends, 
a  good  stretch  of  sands,  also  a  promenade  Pier  and  Pavilion 
envied  by  the  richer  neighbour.  The  relation  of  the  two 
places  is  much  like  that  of  Bexhill  and  St.  Leonards.  Hardly 
two  miles  separates  their  outskirts,  connected  by  a  road  on 
most  of  which  the  railway  obstructs  approach  to  the  coast. 
Besides  frequent  trains,  omnibuses  ply  every  hour  or  so  ; 
and  there  is  also  a  service  of  steam  launches  from  Torquay 
Pier,  when  the  wind  does  not  make  landing  at  Paignton  a 
matter  of  difficulty.  The  scheme  of  an  electric  tram  seems 
to  have  fallen  through  for  the  present. 

From  the  station  Victoria  Street  leads  inland  to  the  pretty 
Green,  besides  which  are  the  Post-Office  and  the  Public  Hall. 
To  the  right  here  is  the  old  restored  Church,  containing  a 
Norman  doorway,  a  triple-arched  stone  screen,  and  a  statued 
tomb  to  Sir  John  Kirkham  and  his  wife.  Close  to  the 
church  stands  an  ivied  tower,  fragment  of  a  palace  of  the 
Bishops  of  Exeter,  in  which  Miles  Coverdale,  the  Reformer, 
is  traditionally  said  to  have  worked  at  translating  the  Bible. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  railway  one  passes  down  to  the  sea, 
where  behind  the  Pier  extends  Paignton's  Esplanade  and 
Green,  recalling  Littlehampton,  with  a  bandstand  and  a 
roomy  cycling  track.  An  encampment  of  tents  beside  the 
Pier  testifies  in  the  season  to  the  popularity  of  "  mixed 
bathing,"  allowed  here.  At  the  Torquay  end,  the  front  is 
finished  off  by  an  extraordinary  Moorish  -  like  structure, 
property  of  a  gentleman  whose  name  is  literally  a  household 
word.  Round  this  a  private  road  has  been  made  and 
thrown  open  as  a  short  cut  to  the  Torquay  highway.  At 
the  other  end  Roundham  Head  closes  in  the  sweep  above  the 
little  harbour.  Beyond  this,  from  Cliff  Road,  a  path  takes  us 
round  the  red  cliffs  to  Goodrington  Sa7idSy  on  which  secluded 


PAIGNTON BRIXHAM  79 

bathing-places  might  be  found  ;  and  thence  the  coast  sweeps 
on  to  Brixham. 

Behind,  Paignton  straggles  out  into  very  pleasant  country,  rich 
in  real  Devonshire  lanes,  and  looking  its  best  in  the  blossoming 
season,  the  neighbourhood  being  much  given  to  orchards  and 
cider  making.  An  hour  or  so's  walk  leads  to  airy  heights,  with  a 
good  prospect,  the  highest  of  them  Westerland  Beacon,  beyond 
which  lies  Berry  Pomeroy  Castle  (see  p.  84),  3  miles  short  of  Totnes 
(p.  83),  and  to  the  north  is  Compton  Castle  (p.  72).  Between 
Paignton  and  Totnes  a  conveyance  runs  some  half-dozen  times  a 
day  (6  miles),  cutting  short  the  circuitous  railway  route  by  Newton 
Abbot  and  the  steamboat  trip  vid  Dartmouth.  Another  walk 
(about  4  miles)  southwards  would  bring  us  across  to  StoTce  Gabriel 
(p.  86)  above  the  windings  of  the  Dart. 

From  Paignton  the  railway  turns  round  the  bay,  skirting 
its  rocky  points  and  sandy  coves  before  mounting  the  slight 
ridge  that  separates  it  from  the  valley  of  the  Dart.  Beyond 
the  village  and  sands  of  Goodrington  comes  Churston 
Junction,  near  which  are  the  Warhorough  Golf  Links.  About 
a  mile  off  to  the  right  is  Galmpton,  on  a  creek  of  the  Dart ; 
and  an  hour's  walk  upwards  would  thence  lead  to  StoJce 
Gabriel  (p.  86),  overlooking  the  river.  On  the  left  goes  off  a 
short  branch  to  Brixham,  on  the  way  to  which  Torquay 
presents  a  fine  view  of  itself  across  the  sea,  as  Brixham 
stands  so  full  in  sight  from  Torquay  that  visitors  are  likely 
to  run  over  to  make  nearer  acquaintance  with  it  (8  miles  by 
road).  Besides  frequent  trains,  a  steam  launch  occasionally 
takes  this  trip  from  Torquay  and  Paignton. 

Brixham  (Hotels  :  Bolton,  Globe,  etc.)  is  not  so  much  a 
place  of  pleasure  as  of  business,  being  one  of  the  most 
important  fishing  stations  on  the  coast,  worked  by  its 
celebrated  trawlers  from  Start  Point  to  the  Bill  of  Portland. 
A  good  many  residences,  however,  have  been  built  of  late, 
and  artists  are  said  to  be  taking  a  fancy  to  the  quaint  sea- 
side houses  and  fine  cliff  scenery  of  the  town,  which  must 
contain  now  well  on  to  10,000  inhabitants.  It  is  a  strag- 
gling place  in  two  quarters.  Upper  or  Church  Brixham  above, 
and  Brixham  Qiiay  below,  "  a  sort  of  Devonshire  Wapping 
with  a  Billingsgate  smell." 

The   Church,    in   the   upper  town,  is   a   large   ancient 


80  ^  TORQUAY 

structure  of  the  14tli  century  with  a  lofty  tower.  That  in 
the  lower  town  used  to  be  renowned  for  its  ugliness,  but 
is  now  being  restored  and  improved.  Near  this,  on  the 
quay,  is  a  statue  of  William  III.,  over  which  good  Jacobites 
chuckle,  and  Whigs  might  desire  a  better  memorial.  For  it 
was  here,  as  an  obelisk  also  records,  and  as  every  schoolboy 
knows,  that  the  Prince  of  Orange  landed,  November  5, 
1688,  to  play  Guy  Fawkes  with  the  Stuart  monarchy.  The 
stone  on  which  he  first  set  foot  is  preserved  on  the  pier. 

On  Windmill  Hill,  near  the  upper  quarter,  is  the  Bone 
Gave,  celebrated  as  confirming  the  researches  made  at  Kent's 
Hole  (p.  70),  and  there  are  two  others  not  far  off. 

Nearly  two  miles  east  of  Brixham  Quay  runs  out  Berry 
Head,  the  bold  point  which  protects  Torbay  from  the  south. 
Upon  it  are  the  remains  of  a  fortification  dating  from  the 
period  of  the  long  French  war,  and  it  was  formerly  the  site 
of  a  Koman  camp.  The  fine  prospects  along  the  edge  of  this 
promontory,  on  either  side,  hardly  need  indication. 

On  the  road  which  goes  nearest  to  the  coast-line,  by  the 
head  of  several  small  coves,  a  good  piece  of  rocky  scenery  will 
be  found  at  Pudcomhe  Cove,  about  5  miles  south.  Proceeding 
onwards  the  pedestrian  may  in  another  2J  miles  reach  Kingswear. 
The  high  road  from  Brixham  Quay  to  Kingswear  is  5  miles.  To 
go  all  round  by  the  coast  would  be  double  this  distance  ;  but  it  is 
well  worth  doing,  at  least  from  Man  Sands,  to  which  what  is 
practically  a  short  cut  may  be  taken  through  Upper  Brixham  from 
Berry  Head.  The  walk  up  the  Dart  estuary  to  Kingswear  is  least 
to  be  missed. 

To  Kingswear  (Royal  Dart  Hotel)  the  railway  goes  on 
from  Ghurston  Junction,  soon  commanding  views  of  the  Dart, 
which  it  skirts  for  a  mile  or  two,  then  of  Dartmouth,  lying 
most  picturesquely  beyond  the  lake-like  river  lively  with 
shipping.  Kingswear,  on  the  left  side  of  the  Dart,  is  ter- 
minus of  the  railway  ;  but  passengers  for  Dartmouth  are 
carried  across  in  a  steamboat  to  the  G.  W.  R.  station  on  the 
other  side,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Dart  boats 
and  the  coaches  for  Kingsbridge.  There  are  public  ferries 
also,  Kingswear  being  a  suburb  of  the  town  across  the  water, 
which  it  overlooks  from  its  slopes.     A  walk  up  the  hill, 


DARTMOUTH,    BUTTER   WALK. 


Photochrom  Co.,  Ltd. 


DARTMOUTH  81 

past  the  Church,  brings  us  to  an  old  redoubt,  commanding 
fine  views  upon  the  mouth  of  the  Dart. 


DARTMOUTH 
Hotels  :  Castle,  Commercial,  Raleigh,  King's  Arms,  etc. 

This  town  was  once  an  important  port,  which  has  stood 
sieges  and  sent  out  bold  navigators,  notably  the  discoverer 
of  Davis  Straits.  It  has  still  a  considerable  stir  of  yachting  ; 
but  perhaps  its  chief  claim  to  nautical  dignity  comes  from 
its  being  the  station  of  the  Britannia,  that  floating  naval 
college  where  our  Eattlin  the  Keefers  and  Midshipmen 
Easys  found  not  so  many  chances  as  their  predecessors  of 
getting  into  mischief.  This,  with  its  consort,  the  Hindostan, 
may  be  seen  moored  a  little  way  up  the  stream ;  but  they 
are  to  be  replaced  by  the  Naval  College  now  erecting 
on  the  height  above,  where  the  cadets  have  their  play- 
ground. 

The  picturesqueness  of  Dartmouth  mainly  lies  in  the 
abruptness  of  the  rich  slopes  shutting  in  the  river  here, 
which  one  would  hardly  believe  to  be  so  near  the  open  sea. 
The  town  itself  owes  something  to  its  situation,  many  of 
the  old  houses  rising  in  irregular  tiers  displayed  upon  a  steep 
ascent.  Above  the  pier  lies  a  stretch  of  level  ground  on 
which  stands  the  principal  part  of  the  town  looking  out 
on  an  open  space,  half-quay,  half-promenade.  Only  a  few 
of  the  old  picturesque  gable -fronted  houses  remain — the 
principal  row  being  in  the  Butterwalk,  at  the  end  of  Duke 
Street,  behind  the  steamer  landing-place,  where  at  more 
than  one  of  the  shops  visitors  are  allowed  to  see  rooms 
showing  fine  old  features  of  internal  architecture  and 
decoration.  A  modern  and  handsome  block  of  building 
beside  the  pier  makes  a  satisfactory  copy  of  the  late  Tudor 
domestic  style.  Here  is  the  Post-Office,  and  the  hotels  are 
all  close  at  hand,  as  is  the  notable  Church,  of  14th  century 
origin. 

St.  Saviour's  Church  is  a  fine  cruciform  building,  possessing  a 
more  beautiful  interior  than  might  seem  promised  by  the  outside. 


82  ^  TORQUAY 

Its  characteristic  is  a  free  use  of  colour  in  the  rich  altar,  the 
ancient  and  elaborate  rood  screen,  the  stone  pulpit  and  elsewhere. 
The  large  altar-piece,  "Christ  raising  the  widow's  son,"  has  now 
been  banished  to  the  west  gallery,  the  front  of  which  shows 
the  arms  of  local  benefactors.  Other  features  are  the  carved 
misereres,  the  Norman  font,  and  the  iron  scroll-work  on  the  south 
door  representing  a  spreading  tree  with  two  leopards  standing  on 
its  branches.  A  slab  inlaid  with  rich  canopies  in  brass,  and 
figures  of  Jofm  Hawley,  d.  1408,  and  his  two  wives,  recall  the 
memory  of  a  prosperous  merchant  of  the  16th  century. 

St.  Clement's,  or  Townstall  Church,  as  it  is  usually  called, 
whose  tower  rises  on  the  height  above,  is  the  mother  church  of 
the  town,  and  has  some  old  tombs  and  epitaphs  of  interest. 

Below  the  pier  comes  the  quay,  fronting  the  waterside 
features  of  the  old  town,  among  them  a  fort  in  fair  preserva- 
tion. Above  this,  the  name  of  Newcomen  Street  reminds  us 
that  Dartmouth  was  birthplace  of  one  of  the  pioneers  of 
the  steam  engine.  Dartmouth  Gastle  stands  a  good  mile 
down  the  shore,  reached  by  following  the  main  street,  then 
keeping  always  as  near  the  shore  as  possible. 

From  the  ruins  of  this  Tudor  fortress  there  is  a  fine  view  over 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  here  narrowed  to  about  250  yards  between 
verdured  cliffs.  On  the  other  side  is  seen  Kingswear  Castle,  now 
restored  and  occupied  as  a  residence,  from  which  a  chain  used  to 
be  stretched  across  to  Dartmouth  Castle,  barring  the  harbour 
entrance. 

Below  the  Castle  is  what  once  served  as  its  chapel,  the  quaint 
little  church  of  St.  Petrock,  one  of  great  antiquity,  where  services 
are  still  held  on  summer  evenings.  The  key  may  be  had  at  the 
adjoining  fort. 

Beyond  the  ruins,  below  the  battery,  the  Cove  has  been  fitted 
up  as  a  Bathing  Place  (reserved  for  ladies  in  the  forenoon). 

The  path  through  the  castle  up  the  height  called  Gallant's 
Bower,  makes  a  very  pleasant  walk.  It  presently  divides,  the 
lower  branch  leading  down  to  C&mpass  Cove,  where  the  Channel 
Islands  telegraph  line  takes  the  water  ;  the  upper  one  holding  on 
by  a  lane  past  a  farm  and  the  gate  of  Redlap  House,  to  the  tall 
church  tower  of  Stoke  Fleming  (p.  87),  whence  it  is  an  easy  hour's 
stroll  down  hill  by  the  high  road  into  Dartmouth. 

Not  only  the  river  mouth  on  both  sides,  but  the  creeks  above 
the  town  and  the  heights  around  it  offer  lovely  walks,  only  to  be 
spoiled  by  the  damp  weather  that  too  often  shrouds  the  beauties 
of  this  part  of  Devon,  else  deserving  to  be  made  more  of  than  in  a 
mere  excursion  from  Torquay. 


TOTNES  83 

Torquay  to  Totnes  by  rail. — The  trip  by  steamer  up 
the  Dart  is  the  one  most  often  made  from  Dartmouth,  which 
again  may  be  taken  downwards  from  Totnes.  Let  us  now 
return  to  Torquay  to  reach  the  latter  place  by  rail,  starting 
in  the  opposite  direction  for  Newton  Ahhot  (p.  7),  where  we 
change  on  to  the  Plymouth  line,  that  takes  us  for  9  miles 
through  a  green  country  scarred  by  sandstone  quarries.  In 
9  miles  we  cross  the  Dart  above  the  curved  reach  with 
which  it  cornea  into  Totnes. 


TOTNES 

Hotels :  Seymour,  Seven  Stars,  near  the  Bridge  ;  Castle,  in  the  town. 

This  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Devon,  with  a  legend 
that  the  mythical  Trojan  hero,  Brutus,  landed  here,  in  proof 
of  which  the  very  stone  on  which  he  first  set  foot  may  still 
be  seen.  It  stands  on  a  hill  rising  from  the  Dart,  the  narrow 
mounting  main  street  spanned  by  a  gateway,  above  which 
some  old  houses  with  overhanging  stories  of  piazza  fronts 
recall  Chester  on  a  small  scale.  Its  population  of  4000  seems 
to  flourish  fairly  in  an  easy-going  way.  The  chief  objects 
of  interest  are  the  Church,  the  Castle,  the  Bridge,  and  such 
remains  as  are  discernible  of  the  old  Roman  road  and  the 
town  ramparts. 

The  Castle,  built  by  a  Norman  baron,  Judhael  de  Totneis,  will, 
on  leaving  the  station,  be  soon  visible  on  an  eminence  among  trees. 
(A  small  charge  for  admission  :  ring  bell. )  The  keep,  of  red  sand- 
stone, is  circular  in  form  and  massed  with  ivy,  surrounded  by 
pleasant  garden-grounds.  The  view  from  the  battlements  is  very 
extensive  and  beautiful. 

From  the  Castle  grounds  we  pass  to  the  Church,  Perpendicular 
in  style,  whose  fine  red  tower  is  also  a  conspicuous  feature  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  town.  The  stone  pulpit  is  richly  carved,  and 
the  restored  screen  a  fine  one  in  the  same  style  as  that  at  St. 
Saviour's,  Dartmouth.  The  Parochial  Library,  over  the  Church 
Porch,  contains  a  notable  collection  of  the  works  of  the  Fathers, 
and  folios  of  the  17th  century  divines. 

The  Guildhall,  not  far  off,  with  curious  old  oaken  stalls,  formed 
part  of  the  old  Benedictine  Priory  of  St.  Mary's. 

On  leaving  the  Church  or  the  Guildhall,  strangers  should 
be  sure  to  turn  farther  up  the  main  street,  as  there  are  the 


84  •  TORQUAY 

quaint  piazzas  already  mentioned,  and  the  Norman  arch  of 
North  Gate.  East  Gate,  in  the  middle  of  this  thoroughfare, 
divides  it  into  High  Street  and  Fore  Street. 

At  the  lower  end  of  Fore  Street  a  handsome  stone  Bridge 
connects  Totnes  with  its  suburb  Bridgetown,  where  another 
large  church  catches  the  eye  from  afar,  which  on  nearer  ex- 
amination turns  out  to  be  much  the  work  of  this  century. 
An  Island  in  the  river,  reached  from  the  bridge  by  a  flight 
of  stone  steps,  forms  a  promenade,  the  view  from  which  is 
somewhat  spoilt  by  the  storehouses  below  the  Seymour  Hotel. 
Beyond  them  and  the  steamboat  landing-place,  there  is  a 
pleasant  walk  through  the  fields  on  the  left  bank. 

Up  the  river  also  one  may  find  agreeable  saunters  ;  and 
boating  and  fishing  would  be  resources  for  a  few  days'  stay. 

Berry  Pomeroy,  2  m.,  lies  on  one  road  to  Torquay 
(9  miles),  and  the  Castle,  the  main  lion  of  this  neighbour- 
hood, is  nearly  a  mile  north  of  the  village.  To  reach 
it  take  the  road  to  the  left,  a  little  beyond  the  village, 
and  you  will  soon  gain  sight  of  the  ruins  rising  among  thick 
wood.  A  small  gratuity,  going  towards  the  restoration  of 
the  parish  church,  is  expected  for  the  loan  of  the  key,  which 
should  be  procured  before  entering  the  precincts  of  the 
Castle.  Kefreshments  also  may  be  had  at  the  lodge-keeper's. 
There  is  no  admission  on  Sunday. 

The  remains  of  this  once  stately  stronghold,  erected  in  the  days 
of  the  Conqueror  by  Ralph  de  Pomeroi,  seem  to  hang  upon  the 
brink  of  a  lofty  cliff  which  starts  up  with  picturesque  boldness 
from  the  depths  of  a  glen.  The  lands  passed  to  the  family  of  Lord 
Protector  Somerset,  forfeited  by  treason  ;  and  Sir  Edward  Seymour, 
the  leader  of  "the  country  party"  against  James  II.,  maintained 
here  a  splendid  state,  but  the  place  appears  to  have  fallen  into 
decay  soon  after  his  decease.  Tradition  ascribes  its  destruction  to 
lightning.  The  ruins  now  belong  to  the  Duke  of  Somerset,  as 
representative  of  the  ancient  family  of  Seymour,  and  are  maintained 
in  due  repair.  They  consist  of  an  embattled,  ivy-grown  gateway, 
"  Lady  Margaret's  "  ToAver  at  the  east  end,  and  fragments  of  walls, 
and  of  the  more  modern  residential  part  of  the  building.  The 
view  from  above  the  glen  should  not  be  missed.  Another  point 
is  the  "Wishing  Tree,"  a  fine  beech,  carved  with  many  names  of 
those  who  may  or  may  not  have  got  their  wishes  by  walking  three 
times  backwards  around  it. 


T0TNB8  85 

The  Church,  in  the  village,  is  partly  an  ancient  building,  rebuilt 
in  1485.  The  south  aisle  is  of  later  date.  Noticeable  in  it  are  its 
fine  screen,  its  rood-loft,  and  various  memorials  of  the  Pomeroys 
and  Seymours,  especially  Lord  Edward  Seymour,  died  1593,  and 
Sir  Edward  Seymour.  John  Prince,  vicar  of  the  parish,  1701, 
here  wrote  his  well-known  work  on  the  Worthies  of  Devon. 

The  following  other  spots  in  the  neighbourhood  are  often  visited. 

There  is  a  fine  church  also  at  Little  Hempston,  half  an  hour's 
walk  to  the  north  of  Totnes,  and  about  as  far  to  the  west  of  Berry 
Pomeroy  Castle. 

At  Dartington,  2  miles  by  footpath,  quitting  the  Ashburton 
Road  f  of  a  mile  out  of  the  town,  is  an  old  English  house  that 
embodies  a  portion  of  the  feudal  mansion  of  the  Hollands,  Dukes 
of  Exeter,  and  was  built,  as  a  sculptured  escutcheon  shows,  by 
the  first  of  that  family  in  the  reign  of  Richard  II.  The  Great 
Hall  is  now  unroofed.  The  kitchen  and  some  of  the  outbuildings 
also  remain.  On  the  west  side  spreads  a  terraced  garden,  ordered 
in  the  Elizabethan  style.  The  outer  quadrangle  is  in  tolerable 
preservation  ;  but  of  the  inner  court  the  relics  are  scanty.  Near 
the  house  stood  the  Church,  now  demolished,  with  the  exception 
of  the  tower,  in  which  the  Champernowne  Monument  is  still  pre- 
served. The  new  Church,  in  another  part  of  the  parish,  built  in 
1880,  contains  a  good  deal  of  the  woodwork  and  other  materials 
from  the  old  one,  notably  the  pulpit  and  a  carved  oak  screen. 

About  1  mile  beyond  is  Staverton  Bridge,  commanding  a  fine 
view  of  the  vale  of  the  Dart,  and  close  to  Staverton  Station  on  the 
Ashburton  branch  line.  Staverton  village  (Inn :  Eing  of  Bells) 
has  a  restored  Church  with  a  fine  and  unusually  large  rood  screen, 
recently  repaired. 

These  are  only  samples  of  the  many  good  excursions  to 
be  taken  from  Totnes,  whence  Dartmoor  also  may  be  visited 
by  the  Ashburton  branch.  What  everybody  does  here  is  to 
go  down  the  Dart  by  the  tidal  steamers.  The  station  is  quite 
a  mile  from  the  landing  place  near  the  bridge,  but  hotel 
omnibuses  and  cabs  are  waiting  to  give  passengers  a  lift.  The 
trip  takes  an  hour  ;  and  the  only  thing  to  be  said  against 
it  is  that  in  fine  weather  the  boats  are  apt  to  be  rather  crowded. 
Tourists  coming  up  the  river  must,  of  course,  read  our  notes 
backwards. 

Totnes  to  Dartmouth  by  river  (10  m.).  The  Dart  lias 
been  called  the  English  Rhine,  and  travellers,  misled  by 
this  compliment,  are  sometimes  disappointed.     It  is  not  in 


8(J  •  TORQUAY 

the  least  like  the  Khine,  except  in  having  water  and  banks, 
but  it  has  thoroughly  English  charms  of  its  own.  At  Totnes 
it  is  a  smooth  river  about  the  size  of  the  Isis  at  Oxford. 
The  little  steamer  puffs  along  between  green  meadows  and 
oak  woods  edging  the  stream,  sometimes  so  narrow  that 
we  seem  about  to  run  ashore,  then  opening  out  into  wide 
lake-like  reaches.  At  one  or  two  points  the  whistle  may 
be  sounded  to  evoke  an  echo  from  the  overhanging  shore. 
Soon  on  the  right  we  pass  the  high  wooded  banks  of 
Sharpham,  where  the  river  makes  picturesque  windings.  In 
the  woods  here  are  a  notable  rookery  and  a  heronry.  On 
the  left  comes  the  village  of  Duncannon,  beyond  which  a 
glimpse  is  caught  of  the  ivy-clad  church  of  Stoke  Gabriel, 
from  which  one  can  walk  to  Paignton,  Torquay,  or  Dartmouth. 
On  the  opposite  side  opens  the  long  inlet  called  Bow  Creek. 
The  next  place  to  be  noted  is  Sandridge,  birthplace  of  the 
navigator,  John  Davis,  on  the  left.  Dittisham,  conspicu- 
ously situated  on  the  neck  of  an  isthmus,  below  Fire  Beacon 
Hilly  is  visible  across  the  stream,  which  here  expands  to  the 
breadth  of  a  mile,  making  a  sweep  that  brings  us  round  to 
another  view  of  Dittisham,  where  the  boat  calls.  Lower 
Dittisham  has  a  fame  for  plums  and  cockles  that  attracts 
excursionists.  There  is  a  ferry  here.  The  channel,  again 
narrowing,  appears  at  low  tide  aplit  by  a  rock  known  as  the 
Anchor  Stone,  on  which  Sir  Walter  Ealeigh  is  traditionally 
said  to  have  enjoyed  his  pipe;  and  it  is  also  known  as 
the  "  Scolds'  Stone,"  where  ill-tempered  wives  of  Dittisham 
were  set  to  cool.  On  a  promontory  to  the  left  stretch  the 
sylvan  slopes  of  Greenway  House,  birthplace  of  Sir  Walter's 
half-brother  and  rival  explorer,  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert ;  and 
Greenway  claims  to  be  the  first  English  home  of  the  potato. 
The  railway  is  then  seen  edging  the  left  shore,  the  other  side 
falling  back  round  a  long  inlet.  Dartmouth  comes  into  view, 
above  which  we  pass  close  to  the  Britannia  and  Hindostan 
training  ships,  and  may  chance  to  find  those  smooth  waters 
alive  with  small  craft  manned  by  future  Nelsons.  The 
boat  puts  us  out  at  the  G.  W.  R.  landing  stage  (ticket  ofiice), 
from  which  another  steamer  connects  with  all  the  trains  at 
Kingswear. 


THE  KINGSBRIDGE  COACH  ROUTE  87 

THE  KINGSBRIDGE  ROUND 

Other  notable  points  of  the  South  Hams  are  to  be  strung  on 
what  we  may  call  the  outer  circle  excursion  from  Torquay,  taken 
by  coach  along  the  coast  from  Dartmouth  to  Kingsbridge,  and  back 
by  rail  through  Totnes,  or  vice  versd. 

Coaches  start  from  the  G.  W.  R.  pier  once  a  day  all  the  year 
round,  and  twice  in  summer.  Third  class  excursion  tickets  covering 
the  whole  round  trip  from  Torquay  in  either  direction,  5s.  The 
coach  fare  alone  is  3s.  6d. 

Dartmoutli  to  Kingsbridge  (15  m.) — The  road  out  of 
Dartmouth  is  so  narrow  and  steep  as  to  give  us  a  hint  of 
adventurous  travel  in  the  old  times.  On  the  left  we  have 
fine  prospects  of  the  river.  Once  four  or  five  horses  have 
tugged  us  up  the  ascent,  we  bowl  on  over  breezy  heights  to 
Stoke  Fleming,  where  there  are  inns  and  a  few  lodgings  for 
visitors,  with  a  fair  beach  for  bathing,  adorned  by  red  sand- 
stone rocks  and  trees  growing  down  almost  into  the  water, 
as  well  as  by  the  traces  of  a  submerged  forest.  We  have 
heard  caution  suggested  as  to  the  bathing  hereabouts.  The 
ancient  Church  is  notable  by  its  tower,  and  contains  two 
fine  brasses.  To  this  point  pedestrians  may  keep  round  the 
cliffs  by  Dartmouth  Castle  (see  p.  82). 

As  we  descend  from  this  village  the  long  sweep  of  Start 
Bay  appears  in  front,  brought  to  an  end  by  the  lighthouse- 
crowned  Start  Point.  After  dropping  to  the  sea-level  at  a 
little  bay  called  Blackpool,  where  will  be  noticed  a  curious- 
looking  edifice  built  by  an  old  salt,  with  a  quarter-deck  walk 
to  help  him  in  feeling  at  home  on  land,  the  road  winds  up 
again  to  Street  {King's  Arms  Inn\  below  which  there  are 
fine  bits  of  shore  scenery. 

Thence  begins  the  descent  to  Slapton  Sands.  This 
remarkable  beach  consists  of  a  belt  of  gravel  more  than  2 
miles  in  length,  rising  only  a  few  feet  above  high-water 
mark.  On  the  other  side  is  a  long  sheet  of  fresh  water 
called  Slapton  Lea,  narrow  at  first,  but  expanding  to  a 
breadth  of  from  a  quarter  to  half  a  mile.  The  "  Leas  "  (in 
Cornwall  Looes)  that  make  a  not  unrommon  feature  of  this 
coast,  are  usually  much  smaller,  formed  at  the  mouth  of  a 
stream   where   a   pool   has   been   dammed    up  by  shingle, 


88  ^  TORQUAY 

through  which  it  sometimes  bursts  with  tremendous  noise, 
flowing  free  till  a  gale  again  heaps  up  its  bar.  This  one  is 
a  favourite  habitat  of  waterfowl,  and  abounding  in  pike, 
perch,  and  roach.  The  popular  battues  or  massacres  of  wild 
fowl  which  used  to  take  place  here  in  January  are  now  put 
an  end  to,  but  good  fishing  may  be  had  from  the  Sands  Hotels 
passed  on  the  coach  road  not  quite  half-way  along  the  beach. 

The  village  of  Slapton  lies  nearly  a  mile  west,  behind  the 
line  of  hill  which  rises  from  the  water.  The  road  traverses 
the  beach  from  end  to  end,  then  at  the  southern  end  we 
reach  Tor  Cross  Hotel,  which  has  another  lake  of  its  own 
beyond.  The  latter  hotel  being  the  centre  of  the  coach 
enterprise,  a  halt  is  made  there,  enabling  passengers  at  least 
to  stroll  on  the  shore  for  a  view  of  Start  Point.  The 
excursion  steamers  from  Exmouth,  Torquay,  etc.,  frequently 
run  to  the  Slapton  Sands,  where  passengers  can  be  landed 
in  smooth  weather.  Fishing  seems  the  main  interest  here, 
but  the  bathing  is  also  most  inviting. 

At  the  hamlet  of  Tor  Cross,  where  the  high  cliffs  recom- 
mence, the  road  leaves  the  coast,  sweeping  round  the  Lea, 
and  for  more  than  half  a  mile  almost  reverses  its  previous 
course.  Then  it  turns  past  the  Perpendicular  ivy-clad 
Church  of  Stokenham,  to  wind  up  and  down  through  a 
pleasant  inland  district  of  orchards,  straggling  villages,  and 
substantial  church  towers,  one  very  like  another,  till  a  little 
beyond  Charlton  is  reached  the  Kingsb  ridge  inlet,  at  low  tide 
an  expanse  of  weeds  and  wetness  seamed  by  narrow  channels, 
whose  ramifying  shores  we  now  skirt  as  far  as  Kingsbridge. 

From  Tor  Cross  to  Salcombe,  at  the  mouth  of  this  creek,  it  is 
14  or  15  m.  round  the  coast  by  Start  Point  and  Prawle  Point 
The  far-seen  Lighthouse  on  the  rugged  ridge  of  Start  Point  makes 
the  goal  of  a  4  mile  up  and  down  walk  from  Tor  Cross,  with  small 
inns  for  refreshment  on  the  way  at  Bee  Sands  and  Hall  Sands, 
nooks  admired  by  artists.  Beyond  the  Start  comes  Pear  Tree 
Point,  from  which  it  is  about  4  miles  on  to  PrawU  (p.  93),  whence 
one  may  reach  Salcombe  a  little  more  directly  by  road. 

By  Rail  to  Kingsbridge,  which  makes  part  of  the  round 
trip  from  Torquay,  one  keeps  on  the  main  line  from  Totnes 
(p.  83)  a  few  miles,  as  far  as  Brent,  the  proper  name  of 


KINQSBRIDGE  BY  RAIL  89 

which  is  South  Brent,  in  distinction  from  the  Brent  Tor  of 
Dartmoor,  not  to  speak  of  the  Brent  Knoll  of  Somerset. 
This  market  village  {Royal  Oak  and  Anchor  Inns  near  station) 
has  a  hill  of  its  own,  an  outpost  of  Dartmoor,  and  a  Church 
to  show  with  a  Norman  tower,  a  fine  parclose,  a  richly 
decorated  screen,  an  ancient  font,  and  other  memorials. 

Any  one  waiting  an  hour  or  two  at  this  junction,  on  a  fine  day, 
might  spend  the  time  well  by  going  up  Brent  Hill  (1000  ft.),  from 
which  he  will  have  a  wide  view  of  Dartmoor  inland,  and  the 
agricultural  district  known  as  the  South  Hams  towards  the  sea. 
The  road  over  the  railway  bridge  leads  in  about  half  a  mile  to  a 
lane  turning  to  the  left  behind  a  little  country  house  ;  then  by 
following  the  lanes  and  paths  always  upward  it  is  easy  to  reach 
the  top. 

Some  two  miles  up  the  river  there  is  a  fine  series  of  cascades ; 
and  its  rushing  course,  if  a  longer  expedition  be  desired,  will  guide 
us  on  to  Dartmoor,  where  it  rises  at  Avon  Head. 

The  branch  from  Brent  to  Kingshridge,  which  has  super- 
seded the  old  coach  route  from  Wrangaton  (the  next  station 
on  the  main  line)  makes  a  pretty  bit  of  travel  by  the  course 
of  the  Avon,  one  of  the  smallest  but  not  the  least  beautiful 
of  many  streams  bearing  this  name.  The  train  crosses  and 
re-crosses  it,  giving  peeps  of  wooded  glens,  old  ivied  bridges, 
and  rippling  beaches  inviting  to  anglers,  who  can  obtain  the 
right  of  fishing  here  at  £2  :  lOs.  per  annum.  The  way  stations 
are  Avonwick^  Gar  a  Bridge,  and  Loddiswell.  Beyond  this  last 
station  the  river  leaves  the  railway,  taking  its  course  down 
a  wider  valley  to  the  right,  where  it  soon  opens  into  its 
estuary  below  Aveton  Gifford  (see  p.  95).  Peaceful  as  it 
looks  on  its  upper  reaches,  this  little  stream  sometimes  floods 
so  as  to  drown  the  railway,  when  suddenly  swollen  by  the 
melting  of  snows  on  its  Dartmoor  head. 


KINGSBRIDGE 

Hotels  :  King's  Arms,  Albion,  in  the  main  street ;  Anchor,  near  the  quay. 

This  is  a  strangely  named  place,  for  there  is  no  bridge 
here,  no  river  indeed,  and  no  sea  to  speak  of,  but  the  narrow 
branching   inlet   which,   though   it  looks  so  marine  on  the 


90  TORQUAY 

map,  becomes  at  low  water  a  wilderness  of  mud  and  sand. 
The  town  consists  mainly  of  one  long  street,  descending  to 
the  head  of  this  inlet,  near  a  quay  where  small  vessels  are 
set  afloat  by  the  tide.  About  half  way  up  the  street  stands 
the  Church,  with  one  or  two  fine  monuments  and  remains  of 
a  good  oak  screen.  Outside  may  be  read  a  famous  epitaph 
which,  indeed,  has  been  used  in  several  west-country  church- 
yards : — 

Here  lie  I  at  the  chancel  door, 

Here  lie  I  because  I  am  poor. 

The  farther  in,  the  more  you'll  pay, 

Here  lie  I  as  warm  as  they. 

Close  to  the  Church  is  the  Toion  Hallj  containing  a 
museum  with  a  collection  of  birds,  etc.  The  Grammar 
School  is  another  institution  of  Kingsbridge.  The  Church  of 
Dodbrooke,  an  older  suburb,  is  reached  by  turning  off  to  the 
right  a  little  way  beyond  the  King's  Arms.  The  original 
parish  church  of  Kingsbridge  is  at  ChurchstoWy  2  miles  off, 
on  a  height  where  its  tower  shows  welL 

The  whole  town  contains  over  3000  inhabitants,  and  has 
a  pleasant  thriving  look,  though  fears  are  felt  that  its  rail- 
way branch  may  do  it  no  good  by  carrying  off  to  Plymouth 
the  rural  customers  who  hitherto  made  it  a  marketing 
centre.  The  station  is  just  out  of  the  town,  above  the  head 
of  the  estuary,  from  which  a  small  steamer  still  goes  twice  a 
week  to  Plymouth. 

This  is,  or  was,  a  great  place  for  the  manufacture  of  white  ale, 
a  beverage  once  much  in  favour  hereabouts,  but  now  going  out  of 
use,  and  hardly  known  except  in  South  Devon.  We  do  not  know 
the  secrets  of  its  composition,  but  it  recalls  some  of  the  thin  light 
beers  popular  in  North  Germany,  and  is  said  to  be  good  for  the 
stomach-ache  ;  one  story  goes  that  it  was  introduced  here  by  a 
German  doctor  ;  another,  that  it  represents  the  original  beverage 
of  our  Saxon  ancestors.  The  country  about  is  pretty  and  well 
cultivated,  testifying  to  the  mildness  of  the  climate  by  richness  of 
vegetation.  The  grounds  of  Combe  Royal,  behind  the  town,  can 
show  orange-trees  bearing  fruit  in  the  open  air.  Bowringsleigh 
is  a  fine  old  house  and  grounds  on  the  other  side  of  the  town,  near 
the  station.  Casual  visitors  are  not  welcomed  at  either  of  these 
places  ;  but  the  latter  would  probably  be  opened  to  any  one  really 
interested  in  archaeology.    The  scenery  of  Mr.  Baring  Gould's  Court 


KINGSBRIDGB  TO  SALCOMBE  91 

Royal  will  readily  be  recognised  in  the  fine  neighbourhood,  which 
might  well  be  explored  from  the  Kingsbridge  hotels.  The  trip  to 
Tor  Cross  and  Slapton  by  coach  (p.  88)  and  to  Salcombe  by  steamer 
may  be  specially  recommended.  The  beauties  and  antiquities  of 
Kingsbridge  are  amply  treated  in  Mr.  J.  Fairweather's  local  guide. 

KINGSBRIDGE  TO  SALCOMBE  AND  THE  COAST 

KingBbridge  is  at  present  terminus  of  the  line  by  which 
visitors  approach  Salcomhe,  farther  down,  near  the  mouth  of 
the  inlet.  The  journey  is  usually  continued  by  a  little 
steamer  that  plies  from  a  higher  or  lower  point  according  to 
the  tide  ;  but  in  any  case  it  is  a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the 
station,  whence  a  bus  runs  to  the  quay  (turn  down  from 
station  and  along  the  left  shore  of  the  creek).  The  passage 
is  made  in  little  over  half  an  hour ;  but  there  will  often  be 
some  delay,  as  the  boat  depends  on  tide.  The  distance  by 
water  is  about  6  miles,  between  low,  rocky  edges  from  which 
rise  slopes  of  meadow  and  wood,  pleasant  to  see,  if  not 
markedly  picturesque.  On  the  left  Charlton  church  tower 
marks  the  line  of  the  coach  road  from  Dartmouth  (p.  88). 
Several  side  creeks  open  out  on  either  hand  ;  then  one  is 
surprised  with  a  more  lively  view,  as  the  steamer  rounds  a 
corner  upon  Salcombe  nestling  under  its  ivied  Church,  with 
a  show  of  yachts  and  small  shipping  in  the  sheltered  sound 
80  finely  shut  in. 

An  omnibus  for  Salcombe  meets  certain  trains.  This 
takes  rather  longer  than  the  boat,  as  the  driving  road  makes 
a  high  circuit  (6-7  miles)  mounting  to  the  village  of  West 
Alvington  with  a  fine  peal  of  bells  in  its  tower,  then  by 
airy  uplands  to  Malborough,  whose  spire,  conspicuous  in 
this  land  of  church  towers,  will  have  already  made  a  land- 
mark all  the  way  from  Tor  Cross  to  Kingsbridge.  Thence 
the  road  bends  round  and  descends  into  Salcombe  by  the 
farther  end. 

Walking  to  Salcombe,  one  may  save  about  2  miles  as  follows : 
Take  the  path  along  right  side  of  inlet,  at  the  last  houses  turning 
up  over  fields  into  the  old  road,  an  up  and  down  lane  marked  by 
disused  telegraph  posts.  Presently  comes  one  turn  to  right,  then 
another  to  left,  else  this  road  goes  on  pretty  straight  till  in  2  miles 


92  TORQUAY 

it  drops  to  a  large  creek,  with  the  spire  of  Malborough  Church 
showing  to  the  right.  Crossing  the  bridge  at  the  head  of  the 
creek,  and  mounting  the  lane,  almost  at  once  take  a  path  left  lead- 
ing up,  beside  lUon  Castle  Farm  in  a  hollow,  then  up  again,  over 
a  lane  at  the  top,  and  down  to  Batson  at  the  head  of  another 
creek.  Thence  a  path  round  the  shore  brings  one  to  Salcombe 
Church,  looking  over  Shadycombe  Creek. 


SALCOMBE 

This  is  a  small  port,  which,  now  that  it  has  lost  its  ship- 
building trade,  begins  to  turn  its  attention  in  earnest  to 
visitors,  claiming  due  rights  as  the  most  southerly,  and  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  resorts  of  Devon,  which  has  been  kept 
back  by  want  of  communications,  but  might  become  a  second 
Torquay  if  the  railway  could  be  pushed  on  to  it.  There  is 
one  good  hotel.  The  Marine,  standing  in  its  own  grounds  at 
the  end  of  the  village,  in  which  are  the  King's  Arms, 
Victoria,  and  still  less  pretentious  inns.  Lodging-houses 
have  sprung  up  about  the  higher  edge  of  the  place,  looking 
down  on  the  picturesquely  indented  sound  near  the  mouth 
of  which  Salcombe  lies  so  snugly.  Some  way  out,  near  the 
sands  behind  Bolt  Head,  is  the  Bolt  Head  Private  Hotel,  and 
another  large  hotel  is  projected  in  this  direction. 

The  main  street  by  the  shore  is  narrow  and  quaint ;  and 
the  shore  itself  is  almost  everywhere  blocked  up  by  wharves 
or  grounds.  Unless  one  can  obtain  admission  to  the  fine 
gardens  of  the  Moult  (formerly  residence  of  Froude,  the 
historian,  who  died  at  Woodville  above  the  Marine  Hotel), 
the  only  sight  for  visitors  is  the  shell  of  an  old  castle  on  the 
waterside,  which,  though  in  no  commanding  position,  was 
the  last  Devonshire  stronghold  that  held  out  for  King 
Charles.  The  Church,  whose  ivied  w'alls  show  well  above 
the  harbour,  is  a  modern  one,  well  cared  for,  with  metal 
chancel  gates  as  its  newest  and  most  striking  ornament. 

The  chief  attractions  of  Salcombe  are  the  coast  scenery, 
and  the  soft  air  which  in  winter  invites  a  growing  number 
of  delicate  patients.  The  place  is  so  sheltered  by  high  lands 
as  to  command  one  of  the  mildest  climates  known  in 
England.      Myrtles  and  other  equally  tender  plants  flourish 


SALCOMBE  93 

on  the  shore  ;  lemon,  citron,  and  orange  trees  blossom  and 
fruit  in  the  gardens  ;  rare  wild  flowers  and  ferns  abound  in 
the  neighbourhood.  Salcombe  boasts  that  here,  first  in 
England,  the  aloe  came  into  flower.  In  winter  the  day 
temperature  is  said  to  be  seldom  below  50°,  but  sea-breezes 
temper  the  heat  in  summer,  and  the  rainfall  appears  to  be  a 
little  below  the  South  Devon  average,  which  indeed  is  not 
saying  much  for  Salcombe.  Bathing  machines  seem  un- 
known ;  and  the  best  way  of  getting  a  dip  is  by  crossing  the 
harbour  in  the  ferry-boat  for  unfrequented  sandy  coves 
beyond.  Boating  in  these  land-locked  waters  is  safe  unless 
for  the  chance  of  being  left  high  and  dry  by  a  falling  tide  ; 
and  this  is  an  excellent  yachting  station. 

Sea  and  land  here  are  beautiful,  whether  we  seek  the 
high  moorlands  enclosing  the  inlet,  or  the  rock-bound  sea 
front,  with  its  gloomy  cliff's,  its  romantic  coves,  and  the  dark 
caverns  under  Bolt  Head.  From  Bolt  Head  to  Bolt  Tail  the 
shore  fringes  a  desolate  windy  wilderness,  making  an 
effective  contrast  to  the  characteristic  scenery  of  the  county. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  harbour  the  coast-line  towards 
Prawle  Point  and  the  Start  is  not  less  attractive  ;  and  inland 
will  be  found  the  luxuriant  lanes  and  leafy  charms  of 
Devonshire. 

To  walk  from  Salcombe  to  Kingshridge  (4  or  5  miles)  reverse  the 
indications  given  on  p.  91,  starting  at  the  Church  by  a  lane 
marked  Knowlt,  then  by  the  first  turn  right  round  the  creek  to 
Batson ;  there  take  lane  up  hill,  and  path  presently  branching  to 
left,  which  over  the  ridge  leads  into  the  old  Kingsbridge  road. 
The  shores  of  the  creeks  above  Salcombe  are  not  particularly 
inviting. 

Cross-roads  and  lanes  lead  over  the  peninsula  between  this  inlet 
and  the  Avon  estuary,  where  the  spire  of  ^lalborough  Church, 
about  2  miles  behind  Salcombe,  will  usually  be  a  landmark. 

Prawle  Point,  300  feet  high,  is  about  five  miles  distant 
by  the  coast.  To  reach  it  you  cross  the  ferry  to  Portle- 
mouth,  where  one  may  either  take  a  path  by  the  shore  all 
the  way  round  the  mouth  of  the  estuary,  or  go  straight  up 
a  steep  lane  to  the  Church,  interesting  for  its  carved  screen, 
then  follow  a  road  to  the  right  of  the  church,  till  a  lane 
turns     off    to     the    Rickham     coastguard     station.        This 


94  TORQUAY 

cuts  off  a  corner,  and  brings  us  to  the  open  coast,  along 
which  the  path  runs  in  and  out,  up  and  down,  by  many  a 
rugged  cliff  and  wave-worn  gulf.  The  Point  is  a  wild 
broken  headland  of  gneiss  rock  having  underneath  it  a 
natural  arch,  through  which  boats  may  be  steered  in  calm 
weather.  The  view  from  here  of  Bolt  Head,  standing  out 
beyond  the  bay  to  the  west,  is  very  fine.  The  walk  may  be 
continued  eastwards  to  Start  Point  (5  m.),  conspicuous  by  its 
lighthouse,  and  (9  m.)  Tor  Cross  Hotel  (p.  88). 

From  East  Frawle,  behind  the  point,  there  is  a  shorter  way 
back  to  Salcombe,  and  from  Start  Point  one  might  return  to 
Salcombe  by  the  direct  road  across  the  peninsula  (7  miles)  passing 
by  Chivelstone,  where  another  towered  church,  with  a  fine  screen, 
can  be  visited. 

Bolt  Head  is  three  miles  south  of  Salcombe  on  the  other 
side,  reached  by  a  road  running  parallel  with  the  inlet  and 
passing  the  remains  of  the  old  Castle,  then  the  Moult,  a 
wooded  height,  long  the  property  of  the  Courtenays,  between 
the  North  and  South  Sands.  Beyond  an  ornamental  life- 
boat house,  the  road  turns  up  to  the  left,  and  enters 
private  grounds  by  a  gate  at  which  two-legged  tourists  are 
admitted,  but  not  their  dogs.  Through  a  wood  that  in  May 
glows  with  a  carpet  of  bluebells,  we  now  follow  an  em- 
bowered path,  marked  all  the  way  by  white  stones,  leading 
next  under  a  group  of  fantastic  rocks  crowned  by  a  flagstaff, 
into  a  deep  hollow  where  it  apparently  turns  inland,  but 
soon  zigzags  up  to  Bolt  Head.  From  the  farmhouse  in  this 
hollow,  it  is  possible  to  strike  a  little  more  directly  back  to 
Salcombe,  but  the  way  can  easily  be  lost,  and  the  stranger 
may  chance  to  entangle  himself  on  the  sides  of  a  valley 
behind  clothed  with  an  almost  impassable  jungle. 

The  Head  is  a  promontory  of  mica  schist  430  feet  high.  Below 
it  are  several  reefs,  and  an  island  called  the  Mewstone,  a  name  that 
recurs  on  this  coast,  Tnew  meaning  gull.  In  the  cliff  close  at  hand 
may  be  noticed  the  entrance  to  Bull's  Hole,  a  cavern  which  is 
locally  fabled  to  go  underground  for  a  couple  of  miles,  reappearing 
at  Saw  Mill  Cove,  the  only  break  in  the  bristling  wall  of  cliff  that 
extends  from  Bolt  Head  to  Bolt  Tail,  a  distance  of  6  miles. 
Opposite  this  cove  a  rock  called  the  Ham  Stone  stands  out  to  sea, 


BIGBURY  BAT  95 

and  beyond  it  we  rise  to  Bolbury  Down,  over  which  lies  the  whole 
of  the  remaining  distance  to  the  "Tail."  The  coast  scenery  is 
very  fine  all  the  way,  along  a  series  of  rugged  headlands, 
inhabited  by  a  multitude  of  sea-birds.  Their  stern  charms  should 
be  seen  from  a  boat.  The  white  stones  marking  the  path  must  be 
useful  in  the  dusk,  for  the  rough  edge  is  often  dangerous,  especially 
where  a  landslip  has  happened.  A  little  short  of  the  "Tail"  is 
Ralph's  Hole,  a  fissure  so  called  from  a  celebrated  smuggler  who 
frequented  it ;  and  between  it  and  the  headland  the  shore  is  in- 
dented by  Ramillies'  Cove,  where  the  wreck  of  the  "Ramillies" 
frigate  a  century  ago  lost  over  600  lives. 

Bolt  Tail  is  the  farther  corner  of  this  broad  promontory, 
where  we  look  westward  over  the  wide  expanse  of  Bigbury 
Bay,  into  which  the  Avon  and  the  Erme  pour  a  large  pro- 
portion of  the  waters  collected  on  the  southern  slopes  of 
Dartmoor.  Below  this  point  lies  Hope  Cove  {Hojpe  and 
Anchor  Inn),  whose  prominent  "Kock  of  Gibraltar"  and 
other  fine  features  have  attracted  artists.  From  Hope  to 
Salcombe  is  under  6  miles  by  road  through  Malborough. 

Beyond  Hope,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Avon,  a  little 
inland,  stands  the  picturesque  village  of  Thurlestone,  with 
its  fine  old  Church,  now  to  get  much-needed  restoration,  and 
its  new  hotel.  Thurlestone  is  noted  for  a  singularly  arched 
rock  of  red  sandstone  on  the  shores,  and  for  a  beach  which 
invites  its  development  as  a  bathing-place,  only  about  4 
miles  from  Kingsbridge  by  direct  road.  Golf  links  have 
been  laid  out  as  a  beginning  of  attractions. 

Over  the  ridge  is  Bantham,  a  small  knot  of  red  and  white 
houses  on  a  cliff  above  the  Avon  estuary,  separated  from  the 
Thurlestone  beach  by  a  curve  of  fine  red  and  gray  cliff. 
Bathing  and  boating  must  be  set  about  with  caution  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Avon,  as  the  tide  runs  with  dangerous  force 
through  this  narrow  opening,  which  is  guarded  by  Burr 
Island,  turning  a  very  bold  rock  face  to  the  sea,  and  crowned 
by  a  ruined  erection  that  makes  a  prominent  sea-mark. 

At  Bantham  there  is  a  ferry  across  for  Bigbury,  whose 
steepled  Church  shows  on  the  height.  The  lowest  bridge  is  at 
Aveton  Giffbrd,  3  or  4  miles  up  the  river,  a  pretty  village 
with  an  ancient  Church  worth  inspection,  as  is  that  of 
Bigbury. 


96  #  TORQUAY 

Beyond  the  Avon  comes  another  section  of  the  South 
Hams,  the  background  of  Bigbury  Bay,  watered  by  the 
beautiful  rivers  Erme  and  Yealm.  But  this  district  is  not 
very  accessible  from  Torquay,  coming  rather  within  the 
field  of  Plymouth  excursions  ;  nor  indeed  is  it  much  opened 
out  by  regular  conveyances.  It  will  be  enough,  then,  if  we 
indicate  the  way  on  to  Plymouth,  which  is  by  main  G.  W.  R. 
line  from  Brent,  under  the  slopes  of  Dartmoor ;  or  by 
road  from  Kingsbridge,  through  Aveton  Giford  (4  miles) 
Modbury  (4  miles)  Yealmpton  (6  miles)  and  about  7  miles 
farther  to  Plymouth.  From  Millbay  Station,  Plymouth,  a 
railway  branch  comes  as  far  as  Yealmpton,  but  has  stopped 
short  on  its  way  to  Modhury^  which  is  connected  by  coach 
(5  miles)  with  Ivyhridge  Station  on  the  G.  W.  R.  main  line. 

The  way  by  the  deeply  indented  coast  would  be  a  good 
deal  further,  especially  if  one  had  leave  to  turn  aside  into 
the  Fleet  Drive  along  the  banks  of  the  Erme,  and  the 
circular  Memhland  Drive  upon  the  promontory  east  of  the 
Yealm  mouth  (the  latter  open  on  Saturdays)  which  are 
the  tourist  lions  of  this  district.  The  only  high  class  hotel 
we  know  hereabouts  is  the  new  Yealm  Hotel  at  Newton 
Ferrers  (about  three  miles  from  Yealmpton)  from  which,  in 
summer,  one  can  get  on  to  Plymouth  by  frequent  excursion 
steamers,  and  always  by  steam  launch  to  Steer  Point  Station. 

The  South  Hams  Light  Railway  scheme,  which  for  the  present 
has  met  a  check,  would  facilitate  travel  here,  by  giving  a  direct 
route  between  Plymouth  and  Torquay  vid  Modbury,  Salcombe, 
Kingsbridge,  and  Dartmouth. 


EXETER  TO  PLYMOUTH 

This  journey  is  made  by  the  rival  G.  W.  R.  and  L.  &  S.-W. 
lines,  wliich  pass  round  Dartmoor  on  its  south  and  north 
sides  respectively,  at  several  points  opening  up  its  outskirts. 
There  are  three  main  lines  of  road,  two  taking  roughly  the 
same  courses  as  these  railways,  while  another  boldly  cuts 
across  the  centre  of  Dartmoor.  The  Great  Western  line 
along  the  South  Hams  being  the  most  direct  as  well  as 
the  most  populous  way,  it  seems  best  to  describe  this  as  the 
main  route  to  Plymouth,  in  leaving  which,  we  will  follow 
backwards  the  more  arduous  course  of  the  South-Western  ; 
then  also  take  the  reader  over  the  moor  by  road,  joining 
its  railway  approaches. 

THE  GREAT  WESTERN  RAILWAY 

In  our  Torquay  Section  we  have  followed  the  first  half 
of  this  route,  by  Newton  Abbot,  where  the  Moreton  Hampstead 
branch  goes  off  (p.  160),  and  by  Totnes  (branch  to  Ashhurton, 
p.  154).  To  these  branches  we  shall  return  in  our  Dartmoor 
excursions. 

At  South  Brent  (branch  to  KingsbrUge^  p.  89)  the 
railway  runs  between  the  outer  slopes  of  Dartmoor  and 
the  rich  undulations  of  the  South  Hams,  presenting  fine 
contrasts  of  scenery  that  might  be  explored  on  either 
hand.  A  little  way  out  of  South  Brent  unite  two  roads 
from  Exeter,  one  coming  by  Ashburton  over  the  edge  of  the 
moor  ;  the  other  by  Totnes  through  more  lowland  country : 
their  course  is  henceforth  not  far  ofi'  the  railway.     Next  to 

7 


98  EXETER   TO    PLYMOUTH 

South  Brent  is  Wrangaton,  a  station  formerly  known  as 
Kingshridge  Road,  when  Kingsbridge  was  hence  reached  by 
coach.  There  is  an  inn  here,  and  above  it  Ughorough 
Beacon,  an  outlying  point  of  Dartmoor,  may  be  ascended 
for  a  view  similar  to  that  from  Brent  Hill  above  South 
Brent.  The  village  of  Ugborough,  a  good  mile  south  of  the 
line,  has  a  fine  towered  church  with  ancient  features  and 
traces  of  an  elaborate  screen. 

At  South  Brent  we  left  the  Avon  valley,  and  five  miles 
west,  at  Ivy  Bridge,  road  and  rail  cross  the  course  of  another 
beautiful  Dartmoor  stream,  which  makes  this  little  town  a 
place  of  tourist  note. 

Ivy  Bridge  (Hotels :  London,  King's  Arms)  might  be 
mentioned  as  one  of  the  favourite  excursions  out  of  Ply- 
mouth ;  but  as  the  main  line  brings  us  through  it  on  the 
way,  we  may  make  a  halt  now  at  one  of  its  hotels.  The 
railway,  passing  along  the  southern  slope  of  Dartmoor, 
spans  the  Erme  by  a  viaduct  110  feet  high,  close  to  the 
station.  This  river,  of  all  the  streams  on  the  south  of  Dart- 
moor surpassed  perhaps  only  by  the  Dart  in  beauty,  breaks 
down  from  the  heights  through  a  narrow  V-shaped  ravine 
which,  just  below  the  viaduct,  opens  out  on  the  lowland 
district  of  the  South  Hams.  Here  a  large  paper-mill  makes 
a  blotch  in  the  landscape,  but  contributes  to  the  prosperity 
of  this  village  straggling  into  four  parishes.  In  the  place 
itself  the  most  imposing  ecclesiastical  edifice  is  a  Gothic 
Wesleyan  chapel.  Below  the  town,  the  Erme's  bank 
is  bordered  by  the  beautiful  Fleet  Drive,  which  runs  in 
private  grounds,  not  open  without  special  permit  from  the 
owner  or  his  estate  agent. 

The  walks  and  drives  down  the  Erme  take  one  to  the  coast, 
through  rich  lowland  scenery.  At  the  other  side  of  the  loftily- 
placed  railway  station  the  rushing  river  becomes  at  once  a  true 
Dartmoor  stream.  Even  if  only  waiting  a  couple  of  hours  for  a 
train,  one  might  have  an  alluring  stroll  by  going  up  the  shaded 
path  on  the  right  bank.  The  road  above  leads  to  quarries  on  the 
edge  of  a  moorland,  giving  views  of  the  wooded  glens  and  the 
slopes  of  Dartmoor.  The  path  below,  after  a  mile  or  so,  begins 
to  show  the  defects  of  its  qualities ;  but  the  well -shod  explorer 
may  scramble  on  in  about  an  hour  (crossing  a  tributary  brook  by 


THE    ERME    VALLEY  99 

stepping-stones)  to  Harford  Bridge,  thence  to  Harford  Church, 
and  so  up  to  the  moor.  From  Haxford  it  is  rather  over  2  miles 
back  to  Ivy  Bridge  Station  by  road,  coming  down  on  the  left  bank ; 
the  river  path  on  this  side  is  private. 

But  the  Erme  might  be  followed  to  its  head  (about  7  m.), 
whence  there  is  a  track,  to  be  avoided  in  wet  or  foggy  weather, 
leading  up  to  Princetown  (p.  148)  by  Tor  Royal,  in  another  6  m. 
or  so.  About  a  mile  north  of  Erme  Head  is  the  head  of  the  Plym, 
and  twice  as  far  north-east,  that  of  the  Avon,  from  which  by  the 
"Sandy  Way"  along  Holne  Ridge  one  might  strike  eastwards 
for  3  or  4  miles  to  the  cultivated  country  about  Holne,  (p.  159). 
We  hesitate,  however,  in  suggesting  these  moorland  paths  to 
travellers  who  cannot  take  good  care  of  themselves. 


[MODBURY  AND  THE  SOUTH  HAMS 

A  digression  south  can  be  made  to  Modbury  (5  miles), 
connected  with  the  rail  at  Ivy  Bridge  by  a  coach.  On  the 
road  is  passed  Ermington,  to  be  known  by  the  leaning 
spire  of  its  church,  the  restored  interior  of  which  is  worth 
examination.  Thence  a  shorter  cut  can  be  taken  across 
the  fields  to  Modbury  (Hotels:  Davids,  White  Hart)^ 
whose  four  streets  descend  as  many  hills,  and  meet  in  the 
basin  or  hollow  which  they  enclose.  The  Perpendicular 
Church,  dedicated  to  St.  George,  is  remarkable  for  its  tall 
spire,  rising  directly  from  the  ground  to  an  elevation  of 
135  feet.  The  latter  was  rebuilt  in  1621.  In  the  interior 
of  the  church  are  two  effigies  of  the  Champernownes.  Of 
Modbury  Court,  the  seat  of  this  family,  there  are  some 
remains  on  the  westward  hill.  The  Erme  is  about  2  miles 
oflF,  down  which  runs  the  beautiful  Fleet  Drive. 

About  as  far  to  the  west,  Modbury  has  another  railway 
station  at  Yealmpton  (p.  127),  to  which  a  branch  line 
runs  out  of  Plymouth,  and  may  some  day  be  continued 
to  Modbury,  but  till  then  this  venerable  little  town  must 
complain  of  undue  neglect  from  the  tourist.  Cyclists  who 
turn  aside  will  find  a  road  (12  miles)  from  Modbury 
through  Yealmpton  to  Plymouth,  which,  in  the  other 
direction,  takes  them  to  Kingsbridge  (8  miles),  and  there 
are  beautiful  byways  towards  the  coast,  as  a  rule  more 
recommendable  to  pedestrians  than  to  travellers  on  wheels 


100  EXETER   TO    PLYMOUTH 

Of  the  Yealm  country  we  shall  have  more  to  say  in  our 
excursions  from  Plymouth. 

The  lovely  mouth  of  the  Erme  can  be  reached  by 
crooked  ways  near  its  right  bank,  some  half-dozen  miles 
south  of  Ermington.  More  than  half  way  is  passed 
Holbeton,  with  its  small  inn.  Almost  opposite  this  is 
Oldaport,  on  the  left  bank,  where,  above  what  was  once  a 
creek,  are  traces  of  a  fortified  harbour  believed  to  be 
Koman.  By  ferry  near  the  mouth,  one  might  cross  to 
gain  Modbury  up  that  side  ;  or  turning  west,  one  has  a 
grand  walk  along  the  coast  to  Revelstoke,  Noss,  and  Newton 
Ferrers  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yealm  (p.  127).  For  un- 
encumbered pedestrians  this  would  be  the  best  way  of 
getting  on  to  Plymouth,  especially  on  Saturdays,  when  the 
Memhland  Drive  (p.  128)  is  open.  Both  Ermington  and 
Holbeton  are  within  a  walk  of  Yealmpton  Station,  and 
not  far  off  the  highroad  mentioned  above,  from  Modbury 
through  Yealmpton  to  Plymouth.] 

The  above  digressions,  of  course,  are  for  those  who  have 
thrown  themselves  loose  from  our  main  route.  The 
G.  W.  R.  line,  crossing  the  Yealm  by  a  lofty  viaduct, 
brings  us  to  Cornwood,  2  miles  beyond  Ivy  Bridge,  another 
favourite  excursion  point  from  Plymouth,  where  the  upper 
part  of  the  Yealm  valley  would  lead  on  to  Dartmoor.  The 
village  stands  a  mile  or  so  above  the  station,  its  old  Church, 
well  restored,  containing  some  fine  ornaments  both  ancient 
and  modern. 

A  mile  behind  the  village  the  river  comes  down  in  cascades 
through  the  beautiful  wooded  glen  known  as  Awns  and  Dandles, 
which,  though  in  private  property,  is  open  three  days  a  week 
(Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Saturday).  Some  2  miles  north-west 
rises  Shell  Top  (1546  feet),  the  prospect  from  which  is  one  of  the 
most  extensive  on  Dartmoor.  To  the  east  of  this,  between  the 
Yealm  and  the  Erme,  there  are  stone  rows  and  hut  circles  to  be 
traced  out. 

From  Cornwood  (or  from  Ivy  Bridge,  2  miles  more)  a  road  runs 
over  the  south-west  corner  of  the  moor  to  Horrabridge  (12  miles) 
and  Tavistock  (16  miles).  Some  couple  of  miles  south-west  of 
Shell  Top  it  rises  to  the  level  of-  the  moor,  affording  a  fine  view 
over  Plymouth  in  the  distance.     Then,  passing  by  Lee  Moor  Clay 


PLYMPTON  101 

Works,  it  drops  slightly  to  Cadaford  Bridge,  rising  and  falling 
again  to  the  Meavy  stream,  which  it  crosses  a  little  to  the  right 
of  Meavy  village.  Beyond  Meavy  it  again  rises  to  Walkhampton, 
whose  lofty  Perpendicular  church  tower  forms  a  conspicuous  object 
from  every  part  of  the  country  round.  From  Walkhampton 
Horrabridge  is  reached  by  a  by-road  to  the  left,  and  Tavistock  by 
the  main  one,  which  crosses  the  picturesque  Walkham  valley  on 
the  way.  For  the  present  these  places  are  merely  mentioned,  as 
we  shall  come  to  them  later  on  in  our  excursions  from  Plymouth 
(p.  133). 

Pl3nnpton  is  the  next  station,  a  place  that  besides  the 
authentic  honour  of  being  the  birthplace  of  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds,  takes  pride  in  a  distich  plagiarised  by  several 
west  country  towns  which  have  rather  come  down  in  the 
world — 

"  Plympton  was  a  market  town 
When  Plymouth  was  a  vuzzy  down." 

It  now  seems  like  to  become  an  outgrowth  of  Plymouth, 
being  surrounded  by  dwellings  of  prosperous  citizens, 
behind  which  the  heights  are  studded  by  fortifications 
guarding  the  great  seaport  and  arsenal. 

There  are  traces  of  an  Augustinian  Priory  at  Plympton  St.  Mary, 
whose  Church,  near  the  station,  is  a  noble  old  pile  of  the  Decorated 
order,  with  Perpendicular  additions.  It  contains  memorials  of  the 
families  of  Strode  and  Parker,  and  is  notable  for  its  fine  peal  of 
bells. 

At  Plympton  St.  Maurice  or  Plympton  Earle,  a  mile  south  of 
Plympton  St.  Mary,  may  be  seen  the  ruins  of  a  feudal  stronghold 
built  by  Richard  de  Redvers,  Earl  of  Devon.  Here  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds  was  born  in  1722,  and  educated  at  the  Plympton 
Grammar  School,  of  which  his  father  was  master.  This  school 
was  built  1665  in  the  late  Tudor  style,  the  arcade  supported  by 
massive  piers  of  granite. 

Beautiful  walks  may  be  taken  all  around  Plympton,  though 
the  country  is  rather  too  much  blocked  up  by  private  mansions 
and  grounds.  Three  miles  to  the  north-east  stands  up  Hemerdon 
Ball,  crowned  by  its  clump  of  trees,  so  conspicuous  from  the  Hoe 
at  Plymouth,  and  itself  commanding  a  very  extensive  prospect. 
Four  miles  south,  through  Brixton,  is  reached  the  wooded  estuary 
of  the  Yealm  (p.  127).  To  the  west  lies  the  nearer  valley  of  the 
Plym,  up  which  such  beautiful  trips  are  taken  from  Plymouth 
(p.  131). 

A  mile  beyond  Plympton,  the  G.  W.  R.  branch  from 
Tavistock  and   I^unceston  joins    the  main  Pue  at  Marsh 


102  EXETER    TO    PLYMOUTH 

Mills.  Then  we  proceed  for  a  mile  or  so  along  the  estuary 
of  the  Plym,  fringed  on  its  opposite  side  by  the  woods  of 
Saltram  (p.  123),  till,  diverging  into  a  shallow  valley,  our 
train  reaches  successively  the  Mutley^  North  Road,  and 
Millbay  Stations  at  Plymouth. 


'LV.MOUTH  DISTIIICT 


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PLYMOUTH 

Hotels  :  Royal,  near  the  Theatre,  Lockyer  Street ;  Gi'and,  on  the  Hoe  ;  Duk^ 

of  Cornwall,  Continental,*  and  Albion,  opposite  the  Millbay  Station ; 

Lockyer,  Central,*  behind  the  Hoe ;  Farley,  Union  Street ;  Chubb's,  Old 

Town  Street ;   Westminster  Temperance,  Princess  Square ;  Pier,  near  G. 

W.  Docks ;  Royal,  Thomas',  in  Devonport. 

*  Tliose  marked  with  an  asterisk,  new  and  spacious  houses,  have  not  yet 

secured  a  license.    The  Hoe  Mansions  (Eliot  Street),  is  a  first-class  boarding. 

house.    The  Metropole,  on  the  Hoe,  has  for  years  been  represented  only  by  a 

site. 

Stations. — Millhay,  now  rebuilt  and  extended,  is  the  Plymouth 
terminus  of  the  G.  W.  R.  lying  under  the  Hoe,  near  the  chief 
streets  and  hotels  ;  but  the  Cornwall  expresses  do  not  usually  run 
into  this  cul  de  sac,  stopping  only  at  North  Road  on  the  outskirts. 

The  Friary  Station,  in  a  rather  out-of-the-way  part  of  Plymouth, 
behind  Sutton  Pool,  is  the  L.  &  S.  - W.  terminus,  to  which  it  runs 
in  from  Devonport  by  a  circuitous  route,  sharing  with  the  G.  W.  R. 
the  use  of  the  Mutley  and  North  Road  suburban  stations ;  yet  so  that 
here  the  two  railways  seem  again  at  cross  purposes  as  at  Exeter, 
their  trains  out  of  the  town  running  in  opposite  directions.  The 
North  Road  Station  on  this  line  is  the  nearest  for  central  points, 
rather  over  a  mile  from  the  Hoe  and  the  show-part  of  Plymouth. 
The  Devonport  Stations  of  both  lines  might  be  nearer  in  point  of 
distance  to  the  Stonehouse  side,  if  it  were  not  for  the  inlet  to 
be  crossed  by  bridges. 

Cab  fares,  as  officially  fixed,  are  low,  starting  at  eightpence  a 
mile  ;  but  the  practice  of  Plymouth  Jehus  hardly  squares  with  the 
theory  of  the  tariff.  From  Millbay  Is.,  and  from  the  North  Road 
or  Friary  Station  Is.  6d.  would  take  one  handsomely  to  the  Hoe 
quarter.     At  night,  double  fares  are  legal. 

Most  of  the  stations  are  served  by  tram  cars  and  omnibuses,  as 
indicated  a  little  farther  on,  when  our  reader  has  gained  an  outline 
of  the  geography  of  the  place,  made  so  puzzling  by  creeks  and 
peninsulas. 

The  Three  Towns,  as  they  entitle  themselves,  Plymouth, 
Stonehouse,  Devonport^  make  practically  one,  though  as  yet  the 


104  PLYMOUTH 

two  latter  have  resisted  all  proposals  of  municipal  incorpora- 
tion with  Plymouth  ;  Devonport  being  indeed  so  jealous  of 
her  nominal  independence  that  she  erected  a  monument  to 
commemorate  the  change  of  name  from  the  original  belittling 
appellation,  Plymouth  Dock.  To  the  stranger's  eye  all  three 
run  on  into  each  other  for  miles  along  the  broken  banks  of 
the  Sound,  separated  only  by  its  inlets  and  bordering  heights, 
with  Plymouth  as  the  moral  if  not  physical  centre  for  an 
idle  traveller's  purposes.  The  politician  will  find  them 
further  divided  into  the  parliamentary  boroughs  of  Plymouth 
and  Devonport,  each  returning  two  members  who  are  apt  to 
neutralise  each  other's  votes.  The  population  of  the  whole 
group  of  towns  and  suburbs  is  about  200,000.  Plymouth 
and  Devonport  have  much  developed  lately,  while  Stonehouse 
remains  rather  helplessly  squeezed  in  between  them,  content 
to  be  a  Petty  Sessional  Division  of  the  Hundred  of  Roborough. 
The  new  parts  of  the  town  will  readily  be  distinguished  from 
the  old  quarters,  cramped  and  mean  as  they  often  are  ;  and 
the  growth  of  residential  suburbs  on  the  environing  heights 
is  a  proof  of  prosperity.  There  are  men  still  alive  who  can 
remember  cattle  grazing  on  the  site  of  Millbay  Station,  and 
rooks  cawing  in  what  is  now  a  chief  thoroughfare  of  Plymouth. 
"  Every  schoolboy  "  knows,  if  only  from  study  of  Captain 
Marryat,  that  Plymouth  is — we  beg  pardon,  that  Plymouth 
and  Devonport  are — one  of  our  chief  seaports  and  naval 
arsenals.  Every  schoolgirl  knows  how  Plymouth  has  figured 
in  our  marine  annals,  nursing  old  sea-dogs  like  Drake  and 
Hawkins,  sending  out  ships  to  fight  the  French  and  Spaniards, 
now  harbouring  a  Mayflower  freighted  with  the  seeds  of  a 
new  world,  now  a  Bellerophon  carrying  into  exile  the  con- 
queror of  a  continent.  Any  "  general  reader  "  has  a  vague 
idea  of  the  Hoe,  where  bluff  Francis  Drake  was  playing 
bowls  when  he  got  news  of  the  Armada  in  sight ;  of  the 
Hard,  where  Polls  are  understood  as  wont  to  put  their  arms 
akimbo  and  to  speak  irreverently  of  Port  Admirals  ;  of  the 
Barbican,  where  so  many  a  tar  has  landed  with  his  pockets 
full  of  prize  money,  soon  to  be  emptied.  Travellers  know 
Plymouth  as  a  port  of  call  for  great  ocean  steamer  lines,  or 
a  refreshment  station  on  the  long  way  to  Cornwall.     What 


PLYMOUTH  105 

most  strangers  do  not  know  is,  that  Plymouth,  if  they  but 
knew  it,  might  be  one  of  the  pleasantest  resorts  on  the  south 
coast.  It  is  not  such  a  resort,  only  because  visitors  so  often 
hurry  through  it,  on  business  or  pleasure,  without  duly  con- 
sidering its  claims  to  attention.  All  the  more  room  will  be 
found  by  those  who  have  the  sense  to  come  here  when  Ilfra- 
combe  is  crowded,  and  lodgings  are  not  to  be  got  at  Lynton 
for  love  or  money. 

We  seriously  declare  that,  in  some  respects,  there  is  not 
an  English  watering  place  to  compare  with  Plymouth,  which 
nobody  seems  to  think  of  as  a  watering-place.  Those  who 
have  merely  passed  through  the  town,  with  glimpses  of  the 
poor  streets  about  the  railway,  do  not  suspect  that  on  the 
Hoe,  close  at  hand,  there  is  the  finest  promenade  in  England, 
and  that  this  is  only  one  of  several  marine  esplanades  and 
prospects  which  singly  would  make  the  fortune  of  any 
"Saturday -to- Monday ville."  The  front  of  the  Hoe  is 
perhaps  the  best  bathing-place  on  the  south  coast.  Even 
the  docks  here  are  picturesque  arms  of  the  sea.  The  stately 
houses  crowning  the  Hoe,  and  the  streets  of  quiet  dignity 
sloping  down  behind  it,  could  well  hold  up  their  heads  to 
Bath  or  Brighton.  Here  are  the  amusements  of  a  large  town 
to  draw  upon  ;  and  it  is  kept  lively  by  the  stir  of  a  sea- 
port and  garrison  ;  a  little  too  lively,  perhaps,  of  a  Saturday 
night,  in  the  main  thoroughfares  ;  but  the  dweller  on  the 
Hoe  need  know  nought  of  these  scenes  of  vulgar  revelry,  as 
he  gazes  over  the  waters  of  the  Sound,  astir  with  vessels 
of  every  rig  and  flag.  Almost  daily  some  great  war-ship 
comes  in  or  goes  out,  and  the  taxpayer  notes  an  alarming 
waste  of  powder  in  re-echoed  salutes.  Besides  the  crews  of 
these  visitors  there  is  a  permanent  depot  of  tars  rated  on 
the  books  of  the  Vivid,  the  Admiral's  yacht ;  also  a 
nursery  of  future  A.Bs.  schooled  in  the  sturdy  training  brigs 
that  may  be  seen  daily  beating  out  round  the  Breakwater. 
Military  bands  are  as  common  as  organ  grinders  in  less 
favoured  towns ;  here  might  Browning's  Italian  country 
gentleman  say  indeed — 

"  Bang  whang-iohang  goes  the  drum  ;  tootle-tee-tootle  the  fife  ; 

No  keeping  one's  haunches  still :  it's  the  greatest  pleasure  in  life  !  " 


106  ^  PLYMOUTH 

If  one  have  no  taste  for  military  and  naval  spectacles, 
Plymouth  looks  out  over  and  communicates  with  most 
delightful  stretches  of  both  sea  and  land  scenery.  Some 
dozen  excursion  steamers  are  running  daily  in  summer, 
carrying  crowds  up  the  well -wooded  rivers  which  mingle 
their  waters  in  Plymouth  Sound,  or  along  the  coast  of 
Cornwall,  and  to  adjacent  watering-places.  The  railway 
companies  give  cheap  tickets,  in  connection  with  coach  and 
steamer  services,  enabling  one  to  visit  within  the  day  most 
of  the  famous  beauty  spots  on  this  side  of  Devon.  There 
are  lovely  country  walks  close  at  hand.  We  had  almost 
forgotten  to  mention  the  boating,  almost  as  much  a  matter 
of  course  here  as  cabbing,  since  the  amphibious  configuration 
of  the  place  makes  it  in  parts  a  kind  of  deep-water  Venice. 
Weather  is  an  important  consideration  for  a  pleasure  resort ; 
and  those  who  love  Plymouth  no  better  than  they  know  it, 
say  it  is  always  raining  there.  Certainly,  with  the  rest  of 
this  south-west  corner,  it  shares  a  good  deal  of  moisture  ; 
nor  can  its  warmest  advocate  call  it  bracing  as  a  rule.  But 
some  of  us  like  this  mild  soft  air,  and  rather  prefer  rain  to 
dust,  especially  as  knowing  that,  when  the  rain  is  over,  the 
sky  will  be  all  the  clearer.  Here  is  a  statement  to  amaze 
those  who  accept  the  wide-spread  scandal  of  South  Devon 
being  always  wrapt  in  clouds.  In  a  ten-years'  record  of 
the  Meteorological  Society,  Plymouth  stood  bracketed  with 
Dublin  and  Southbourne,  these  three  taking  the  third  place 
for  winter  sunshine,  outshone  only  by  Jersey  and  Falmouth 
in  the  British  Isles.  In  summer  Plymouth  is  seldom 
without  cooling  breezes  ;  and,  as  it  is  no  fashionable  r  ort 
either  in  winter  or  summer,  accommodations  are  ^  ot  ex- 
travagantly dear  at  any  season,  while  lodgings  ca-  readily 
be  found  in  a  town  so  often  called  upon  to  harb^u^  arrivals 
from  abroad.  We  believe,  then,  that  many  holiday-makers 
might  come  to  thank  us  for  the  suggest?  jn  that  they 
should  encamp  at  Plymouth,  using  it  as  a  base  from 
which  to  reconnoitre  the  surrounding  district,  one  of 
the  finest  in  England  ;  and  we  are  glad  to  know  that 
not  a  few  have  followed  our  advice  on  this  point  without 
regretting  it. 


T     H  S     O     II    :f^    1) 


JB  artkolomewE  3itiT 


THE    HOE  1071 


THE  TOWN  OF  PLYMOUTH 

Let  us  now  take  a  look  round  Plymoutli,  beginning  with 
the  Hoe,  at  once  its  Piccadilly  and  its  Champs  Elys^es.  This 
is  a  green  hill  lying  between  the  sea  and  the  busiest  part 
of  the  town,  one  end  of  it  occupied  by  a  block  of  mansions, 
including  the  Grand  Hotel  and  the  Royal  "Western  Yacht 
Club.  About  it  are  the  other  chief  clubs — the  Plymouth 
Club,  the  South- Western  Ydcht  Club,  and  the  Corinthian 
Yacht  Club.  The  slopes  on  both  sides  are  laid  out  as  a 
public  park,  which  wants  nothing  but  shade  and  brightening 
by  a  few  more  flower  beds  such  as  are  found  in  one  bit  of 
garden  at  the  Citadel  end.  Along  the  top  runs  an  asphalted 
promenade,  some  half  mile  long  and  unusually  broad,  from 
which  the  views,  both  landward  and  seaward,  are  unrivalled, 
on  one  hand  stretching  over  the  suburbs  to  the  outline  of 
Dartmoor,  on  the  other  looking  across  Plymouth  Sound 
with  its  winding  shores  and  creeks.  Any  novelist  of  the 
new  school,  who  cared  to  lay  his  scene  here,  might  find 
matter  for  pages  of  glowing  description  ;  we  can  only  advise 
the  reader  to  come  and  see  for  himself  what  a  mistaken  idea 
he  may  have  of  Plymouth  as  all  barracks  and  slop-shops. 
Enough  to  say  that  Brighton  and  Eastbourne  might  well 
give  the  best  of  their  esplanades  and  pavilions  for  this  airy 
park,  conspicuously  ornamented  by  Boehm's  statue  of  Sir 
Francis  Drake,  by  the  new  National  Armada  Monument,  and 
by  the  old  Eddystone  Lighthouse,  transplanted  here  to  end 
its  days  on  dry  land,  as  a  venerable  spectacle  and  view 
tower.  In  the  centre  of  the  seaward  slope  is  a  stately 
curved  shelter  known  as  the  Bull  Ring  ;  above  is  a  spacious 
terrace,  behind  which  the  park  opens  out  towards  the  town  ; 
and  everywhere  seats  and  grassy  ledges  invite  the  holiday 
groups,  who  on  a  fine  Sunday  afternoon  swarm  here  without 
crowding.  Below  projects  the  Promenade  Pier,  with  its 
landing  stages,  from  which  most  of  the  excursion  steamers 
start,  and  its  roomy  pavilion  for  varied  entertainments. 
Plymouth's  sea  front  is  nearly  all  pier,  in  a  sense  ;  but  this, 
let  it  be  remembered  in  our  indications,  is  the  Pier,  not  very 


108  ,  PLYMOUTH 

much  of  a  pier    as   such   structures  go,   but  an  important 
feature  in  the  pleasure-life  of  the  place. 

Bathing. — A  winding  sea-road  edges  the  Hoe,  the  shore  in  front 
of  which  is,  by  nature  and  art,  excellently  laid  out  for  bathing. 
Swimmers,  indeed,  have  the  best  of  it ;  the  sheltered  basin  under 
the  Eddystone  Tower  being  reserved  for  ladies.  The  space  between 
this  and  the  pier  is  an  amphitheatre  of  steps  and  jetties,  from 
which  every  morning,  as  early  as  April  sometimes,  and  as  late  as 
October,  swarms  of  gymnasts  may  be  seen  plunging  into  clear 
depths  and  giving  natatory  displays  very  visible  for  those  who 
care  to  look  over  the  wall,  at  an  hour  when  most  passers-by  have 
their  own  business  to  mind.  Accomplished  swimmers  may 
prefer  the  end  of  the  pier,  where  they  can  dress  under  its  shelters  ; 
but  the  rocks  also  have  covered  dressing- pi  aces  and  causeways  for 
going  down  into  the  water  at  almost  any  state  of  the  tide.  For 
beginners  there  are  two  strips  of  beach  and  rock,  one  to  the  right 
of  the  pier,  that  can  be  used  in  the  morning  ;  the  other  beyond 
the  ladies'  bathing -place,  under  a  cliff,  which  hides  the  local 
Actseons  from  promenading  Dianas,  so  is  available  all  day. 
Farther  along,  under  the  Aquarium,  there  is  yet  another  haunt  of 
swimmers,  with  steps  and  stone  dressing  pavilion  ;  and  the  rocks 
beyond  are  also  pressed  into  service  by  unblushing  urchins. 
Divers  of  a  more  retiring  disposition  would  usually  find  the  Break- 
water very  much  at  their  service. 

To  have  done  with  this  head  of  information,  it  may  be  said  that 
there  are  similarly  prepared  bathing-coves  for  both  sexes  :  on  the 
esplanade  in  front  of  Stonehouse  (reached  by  passing  round  the 
G.  W.  Docks  and  past  the  Marine  Barracks) ;  then  for  Devonport, 
another  under  Mount  Wise,  apt  on  hot  afternoons  to  be  occupied 
in  force  by  the  youngsters  of  H.M.  training  ships,  who  use  their 
brilliant  pocket-handkerchiefs  for  all  purposes  of  bath  toilet. 
The  prosaic  vulgarity  of  a  bathing-machine  seems  as  unknown  here 
as  unnecessary. 

Hitherto  the  water  about  the  Hoe  has  lain  under  a  suspicion  of 
being  contaminated  by  sewage  ;  but  new  drainage  works  are  now 
being  undertaken  to  carry  the  town's  refuse  out  to  sea.  Good 
bathing  can  be  found  at  Barnpool,  and  other  points  of  the  opposite 
shore. 

One  serious  want  we  have  to  note  in  Plymouth  is  a  good 
establishment  of  Baths,  a  matter  which  should  be  seen  to  by  the 
Corporation. 

The  Hoe  occupies  a  promontory,  cut  off  on  the  right  by 
Millbay,  where  are  the  Great  Western  docks,  and  on  the 
other  side  by  Sutton  Pool,  which  serves  the  same  purpose 
for  the  rival  London  and  South-Western  Company.     From 


THE    CITADEL  109 

Millbay  Station  the  sea  front  is  soon  reached  by  following 
the  tram  line  along  the  wall  of  the  docks,  or  by  striking 
straight  up  behind  the  Duke  of  Cornwall  Hotel,  and  taking 
any  turn  to  the  right  to  come  out  on  the  promenade  along 
the  top.  The  further  end  of  the  Hoe  is  occupied  by  the 
Citadel,  built  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II.  as  a  significant 
hint  to  a  town  which  had  taken  the  parliamentary  side  in 
his  father's  war.  If  the  Sound  were  not  well  defended  by 
a  chain  of  forts,  armed  with  guns  of  the  heaviest  calibre, 
our  up-to-date  enemies  might  laugh  at  this  obsolete  strong- 
hold, which,  however,  has  an  old-fashioned  dignity  of  its  own. 
The  prospect  from  the  ramparts,  measuring  about  a  mile  in 
circuit,  is  more  effective  than  they  would  probably  be  against 
a  Japanese  fleet.  The  entrance  is  by  an  elaborate  classical 
gateway  at  the  north  end,  facing  the  town,  into  the  heart  of 
which  we  might  here  descend  at  once,  but  will  rather  take 
our  reader  round  by  the  sea-wall  outside  of  the  fortifications, 
where  carriages,  however,  will  be  brought  to  a  stand  at  the 
corner  of  the  inlet.  Below  the  Citadel,  on  the  sea  side, 
where  the  Hoe  is  continued  by  terraced  walks,  will  be  seen 
the  Aquarium  and  Laboratory  of  the  Marine  Biological 
Association,  the  former  open  at  a  small  charge. 

The  road  round  the  Citadel  ends  in  a  passage  and  stair- 
way, closed  at  night,  leading  through  to  a  somewhat  un- 
attractive part  of  the  town  by  which  we  emerge  on  the 
Barbican,  a  lively  scene  of  quays,  fish  market,  boat  landings 
ferry  steamers,  and  other  features  of  business.  A  flagstone 
here  inscribed  Mayjlower,  1620,  and  a  wall -tablet  com- 
memorate the  embarkation,  or  rather  re-embarkation,  of  the 
Pilgrim  Fathers.  Within  lies  Sutton  Pool,  crowded  with 
small  craft ;  and  near  at  hand  are  the  Custom  House  and 
the  Exchange.  We  are  here  at  the  oldest  part  of  the  town, 
where  some  weather-worn  houses  are  to  be  seen  that  may 
have  had  Drake  for  a  visitor.  The  old  Blackfriars  Monastery 
is  now  desecrated  as  a  distillery  of  Plymouth  Gin.  Passing 
through  some  streets  characteristic  of  the  east-end  waterside 
of  Plymouth,  we  soon  come  to  the  line  of  main  thoroughfares, 
off  which  stands  its  main  architectural  pride,  a  fine  group 
of  public  buildings  including  the  Guildhall  and  Law  Courts 


110  •  PLYMOUTH 

on  two  sides  of  a  quadrangle,  at  the  ends  of  which  are  the 
Post  Office  and  St.  Andrew's  Church.  Though  architectural 
purists  find  some  fault  here,  as  usual,  it  must  be  admitted 
that  hardly  another  of  our  provincial  towns  has  such  an 
imposing  centre.  The  buildings  are  in  general  style  Early 
English,  the  most  striking  feature  being  the  Tower  (160 
feet),  which  will  guide  us  hither  from  almost  any  part  of 
the  town.  The  public  are  admitted  to  the  top  for  a  view 
of  Plymouth,  which,  however,  is  better  seen  from  more 
commanding  situations. 

The  Southern  or  Guildhall  block,  202  feet  in  length  by  90  feet, 
has  in  the  centre  the  Great  Rail  (to  which  the  public  are  admitted), 
the  most  ornamental  portion  of  the  whole  building.  Over  the 
main  entrance  is  a  carved  group  of  Fame,  Industry,  and  Virtue, 
and  over  the  lower  entrance  Justice  between  Truth  and  Mercy. 
On  the  left  side  of  the  entrance  are  panels  representing  re- 
spectively Painting,  Music,  Sculpture,  War,  Peace,  and  Religion, 
and  on  the  right  side  Architecture,  Astronomy,  Mechanics,  Com- 
merce, Plenty,  and  Law.  From  the  centre  of  the  roof  rises  a  light 
and  elegant  spire.  The  interior  is  146  feet  by  68,  and  will  seat 
about  3000  persons.  The  popular  Saturday  evening  concerts  here 
are  of  a  high  class,  though  admission  is  gratis  or  at  an  almost 
nominal  charge.  The  orchestra  has  a  very  fine  organ.  The  large 
windows,  seven  on  each  side,  are  filled  with  stained  glass  re- 
presenting historical  events  connected  with  the  town,  notably  that 
famous  game  of  bowls  on  the  Hoe,  which  Sir  Francis  Drake  played 
out  as  if  to  show  there  need  be  no  hurry  in  tackling  the  Armada. 
One  design  boldly  presents  his  present  Majesty  in  the  prosaic  dress 
of  the  19th  century.  Behind  the  Magistrates'  Court  to  the  east 
are  the  Police  Offices.  The  Law  Courts  on  the  west  are  spacious 
and  remarkably  well  planned.  The  gables  of  the  southern  block 
of  buildings  are  each  crowned  with  statues  of  sovereigns  or  other 
notabilities. 

The  Northern  block,  207^  feet  by  66^,  comprising  the  Council 
Chamber  and  Municipal  Offices,  displays  rather  plainer  architecture 
than  the  southern.  The  Chamber  is  lit  by  stained-glass  windows, 
with  medallion  portraits  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  Queen  Victoria, 
Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  and  Sir  Francis  Drake.  On  the  walls  are 
portraits  of  Charles  XL,  James  II.,  George  II.,  George  III., 
William  IV.,  etc.  In  the  mayor's  parlour  there  are  a  portrait  of 
Queen  Anne  and  a  contemporary  portrait  of  Sir  Francis  Drake, 
1594.  A  tower,  95  feet  high,  crowns  one  corner  of  the  main 
entrance.  On  the  gable  end  of  the  Council  Chamber  stands  a 
life-size  statue  of  Drake,  who  is  evidently  the  hero  of  Plymouth. 

The  Post  Office  faces  the  west  end  of  the  Guildhall. 


CHURCHES  111 

The  old  Parish  Church  is  at  the  east  end  of  the  block, 
having  in  front  of  it  a  tall  cross  erected  as  a  comprehensive 
monument  to  the  parishioners  buried  below  what  is  now  a 
scene  of  bustle.  Behind,  on  the  south-east  side,  at  the  corner 
of  Finewell  Street,  are  some  buildings  of  an  Abbey  ;  and  by 
keeping  down  this  street  into  Notte  Street,  one  finds  other 
relics  of  old  Plymouth. 

St.  Andrew's  Church  is  a  Perpendicular  building,  commenced 
in  the  15th  century.  The  massive  tower,  battlemented  and 
pinnacled,  was  restored  in  1871.  The  body  of  the  Church  consists 
of  a  nave  and  two  aisles  of  unusual  length,  so  as  to  enclose  the 
chancel,  each  with  an  east  window.  The  interior  was  restored  in 
1874-75  by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott.  It  is  remarkable  for  the  large  area, 
and  contains,  amongst  other  objects  of  interest,  a  richly-orna- 
mented stone  pulpit,  a  handsome  octagonal  font,  a  reredos  with 
painted  panels,  and  a  finely-carved  oak  lectern.  The  roof  is 
waggon  shaped.  There  are  several  modern  stained  windows, 
and  many  monuments,  amongst  them  a  fine  bust  of  a  former  vicar, 
Zachary  Mudge,  by  Chantrey  (east  end  of  south  aisle)  on  the  walls, 
and  a  poetical  tribute  to  Charles  Matthews  (south  aisle)  the  elder, 
who  died  at  Plymouth  in  1835  ;  also  several  quaint  epitaphs. 
The  tower  contains  a  carillon  of  ten  bells  which  chime  every  four 
hours.  The  musical  part  of  the  services  is  worthy  of  this  fine 
church. 

Charles  Church,  or  the  "New  Church,"  lies  not  far  off  at  the 
back  of  Sutton  Pool,  where  services  of  a  plainer  type  seem  accept- 
able. This  is  a  rare  and  on  the  whole  surprisingly  successful 
example  of  Gothic  architecture  produced  during  the  middle  of  the 
17th  century.  It  contains  nave,  chancel,  and  aisles,  surmounted 
by  a  tower  and  spire  at  the  west  end.  The  spire  is  more  than  a 
century  later  than  the  body  of  the  Church. 

Plymouth  has  other  handsome  Churches  and  Chapels,  of  which 
the  most  remarkable  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  in  Cecil 
Street,  with  a  fine  spire  prominent  towards  the  back  of  the  town. 

The  Markets  are  somewhat  hidden  away  behind  Bedford 
Street  on  the  north  side  of  the  Guildhall.  Close  to  them, 
the  Plymouth  Public  and  Cottonian  Library  (open  on 
Mondays,  other  days  special  application  necessary)  in 
Cornwall  Street,  has  a  valuable  collection  of  works  of  the 
old  masters,  including  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Rembrandt, 
Rubens,  Claude  Lorraine,  Vandyck,  etc.,  presented  by  Mr. 
Cotton,    F.R.S.     The    old    Guildhall,    Whimple    Street,    is 


112  PLYMOUTH 

occupied  by  the  Free  Library  and  Reading  Room^  which 
offers  special  privileges  to  strangers,  and  has  a  separate 
reading-room  for  ladies. 

From  Bedford  Street  we  pass  by  George  Street  to  the  Clock 
Tower,  which  may  be  considered  the  Charing  Cross  of  Ply- 
mouth. Here  stands  an  Ionic  block  of  public  buildings, 
including  the  Theatre  Royal  and  the  Royal  Hotel.  Further 
along  towards  the  Millhay  station,  which  ends  this  line  of 
thoroughfares,  on  the  left  will  be  seen  the  Athenceum,  also 
in  the  Grecian  style  of  architecture,  but  of  the  Doric  order, 
the  home  of  the  Plymouth  Institution  and  the  Devon  and 
Gornwall  Natural  History  Society,  containing  a  Museum  of 
local  archaeology,  open  at  a  small  charge.  Athenceum  Street, 
turning  up  here  by  a  crescent,  or  Lockyer  Street,  passing  in 
front  of  the  Royal  Hotel,  would  lead  straight  on  to 
the  Hoe. 

From  the  other  side  of  the  Clock  Tower  turns  down 
Union  Street,  in  which  are  the  Palace  Music  Hall  and  other 
places  of  entertainment.  By  the  railway  arch  crossing  Union 
Street  one  can  pass,  on  the  left,  into  Millbay  station.  A 
little  farther  on  comes  the  Octagon,  relic  of  a  day  when 
it  made  a  more  genteel  quarter  of  Plymouth,  this  now  being 
the  main  artery  of  communication  between  Plymouth  and 
Devonport,  much  frequented  of  an  evening  by  Mr.  T. 
Atkins,  his  naval  comrades,  and  their  friends. 

From  the  Clock  start  also  (going  round  by  Princess 
Square  and  the  Post  Office,  not  to  obstruct  the  narrow  main 
thoroughfare)  Electric  Trams  for  Gompton,  Mutley,  and  other 
elevated  quarters  at  the  back  of  the  town  (p.  1 1 7). 

The  tram  marked  Prince  Rock,  taking  at  first  the  same 
line,  leads  to  the  east  suburbs,  passing  by  Friary  Station. 
Opposite  this  station  is  Beaumont  Park,  where  a  mansion 
temporarily  houses  the  Town  Museum  and  Art  Gallery,  for 
which  new  quarters  are  being  built  beside  the  Technical 
School  in  the  Tavistock  Road,  a  main  line  leading  north- 
wards. 

A  little  way  above  the  Beaumont  Park,  the  Freedom 
Field,  scene  of  a  stubborn  fight  in  the  Civil  War,  makes 
another  public  pleasure  ground,  commanding  good  views. 


MILLBAY    AND    THE    POOL  113 


STONEHOUSE  AND  DEVONPORT^ 

Stonehouse  lies  upon  the  promontory  shutting  in  Mill- 
hay,  at  the  head  of  which  are  the  Great  Western  Docks. 
From  the  Hoe  the  shortest  way  across  is  round  the  Docks 
(admission  Id.)  Behind  runs  the  Millhay  Road  (turn  down 
under  the  bridge  beyond  Millbay  Station)  leading  through  a 
not  very  attractive  quarter,  with  some  quaint  nooks  and 
corners  hidden  away  among  its  huge  institutions.  The 
Marine  Barracks  are  at  the  farther  end,  beyond  which,  so 
obscure  are  its  approaches,  strangers  often  neglect  to  pass 
round  the  fine  sea  walk  skirting  the  promontory  between 
Redoubts  known  as  the  Eastern  and  the  Western  King,  with 
a  look-out  over  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Sound  upon  Mou7it 
Edgcumbe  opposite. 

Coming  through  the  Docks  one  mounts  up  by  the  Long  Eoo^n, 
once  am  assembly  room,  and  the  Marine  Infirmary,  also  to  be  gained 
by  passing  round  the  Barracks,  where  they  face  into  Dumford 
Street.  Keep  as  near  the  sea  as  you  can  and  go  boldly  on,  heed- 
less of  sentries  and  cannon,  that  will  let  you  pass  unchallenged 
over  a  low  height  to  the  east  end  of  the  esplanade,  winding  round 
the  bay  before  the  Earl  of  Mount  Edgcumbe's  Winter  Villa, 
where  you  must  turn  off  to  get  out  of  Stonehouse  along  the  side 
of  the  Fool,  known  at  the  upper  end  as  Mill  Lake,  the  long  inlet 
cutting  off  Devonport. 

One  may  walk  on,  however,  a  little  farther  upon  the  point,  the 
outer  side  of  which  is  occupied  by  The  Royal  Victualling  Yard 
{admission  on  application  to  the  police  at  the  entrance).  Vast 
excavations  had  to  be  made  before  the  building  was  commenced, 
which  consists  of  large  quadrangular  blocks,  covering  with  the 
courts  an  area  of  15  acres.  It  is  approached  by  a  street  leading 
from  the  east  end  of  Stonehouse  Bridge,  and  entered  through  a 
handsome  gateway,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  William  IV.  The 
most  interesting  operation  in  the  Yard  is  the  process  of  biscuit- 
making. 

The  walk  round  this  promontory  may  be  gained  at  the 
west  end  from  Dumford  Street,  skirting  the  Pool,  where,  at 
Admiral's  Hard,  is  the  ferry  for  Cremill  and  Mount  Edg- 
cumbe. Then  comes  St.  Georges  Church,  beyond  which  we 
reach  the  Bridge  crossing  to  Devonport.  The  Royal  Naval 
Hospital  looks  over  the  water  to  the  north  of  the  Bridge, 

8 


114  ^  PLYMOUTH 

facing  the  Royal  Military  Hospital  on  the  Devonport  side. 
The  head  of  the  inlet  beyond  is  being  filled  in  ;  and  it  is 
proposed  to  form  here  a  Public  Recreation  Ground  for  the 
three  towns. 

Unless  taking  a  long  way  round  this  creek,  we  must 
gain  Devonport  by  ferry  from  Admiral's  Hard,  or  by 
paying  a  halfpenny  at  the  Bridge,  which  the  tramway 
crosses,  at  once  to  thread  its  way  among  fortifications  and 
places  of  arms.  The  town  occupies  a  promontory,  the 
sea  face  of  which  is  much  shut  in  by  the  Dockyard 
buildings ;  but  Devonport  has  no  want  of  amenities.  The 
walks  and  terraces  of  Mount  Wise,  reached  through  a  park 
to  the  left,  make  a  pleasure  ground  only  inferior  to  the 
Hoe,  and  with  nearer  views  of  the  Mount  Edgcumbe  shore. 
Below  this  the  Richmond  Walk  runs  along  the  shore  by 
AdmiraVs  Stairs  to  Mutton  Gove.  Above  are  the  Port 
Admiral's  and  the  General's  official  residences.  The  other 
side  of  the  town  is  enclosed  by  an  open  belt  known  as  the 
Ordnance  Land  or  the  Brick  Fields,  where  military  displays 
may  be  seen  every  Monday  forenoon  and  on  special  occasions. 
Beyond  the  huge  Raglan  Barracks  and  the  L.  &  S.-W.  station, 
this  recreation  ground  is  continued  by  a  park  commanding 
fine  views,  on  the  other  side  of  which  again  lies  the  growing 
suburb  of  Stoke,  running  into  Morice  Town,  the  new  quarter 
behind  the  Keyham  Steam  Yard. 

There  are  some  picturesque  nooks  in  Devonport,  as  the 
houses  on  the  Gun  Wharf,  200  years  old  and  overgrown 
with  creepers.  There  is  much  also  that  looks  new  and 
business-like.  Part  of  the  town  is  laid  out  in  square  blocks, 
on  the  American  plan ;  and  the  streets  on  the  whole  are 
not  so  grimy  and  crooked  as  those  of  Plymouth.  Cumberland 
Street  and  Fore  Street,  to  which  the  tramway  takes  us,  are 
the  main  thoroughfares  ;  and  hereabouts  stand  the  chief 
public  buildings — the  Post  Office,  in  Fore  Street ;  the  Free 
Public  Library  J-  the  Public  Hall  TJieatre,  at  the  junction  of 
Fore  Street  with  Princess  Street ;  the  highly  classical  Town 
Hall  in  Fore  Street ;  and  the  Golumn,  a  Doric  pillar  of 
Devonshire  granite,  more  than  100  feet  in  height,  built 
at  a  cost  of  £2750  on  a  solid  mass  of  rock,  to  commemorate 


THE    DOCKS  115 

the  change  in  the  name  of  the  town  from  Plymouth  Dock 
to  Devonport. 

None  of  the  churches  of  Devonport  calls  for  special 
remark,  unless  it  be  the  old  Parish  Church  of  Stoke  Damerelj 
close  to  the  Military  Hospital.  This,  however,  has  nothing 
left  of  its  original  self  except  the  tower. 

To  strangers  the  chief  object  of  interest  is,  of  course, 
the  Dockyard  (admission  at  10  and  11  a.m.,  and  at  2,  3, 
and  4  p.m.) 

A  naval  arsenal  was  established  here  in  1689,  but  it  began  to 
assume  its  present  proportions  only  in  1761.  From  that  date 
the  growth  of  Plymouth  Dockyard  has  been  rapid,  and  it  is  now 
one  of  the  most  important  establishments  in  the  kingdom. 

The  entrance  is  at  the  end  of  Fore  Street,  whence  we  pass  into 
a  wide  open  court  bounded  on  each  side  by  buildings  ;  amongst 
them,  the  Admiral-superintendent's  house,  the  chapel,  the  guard- 
house, pay  office,  and  surgery.  Under  the  guidance  of  the 
metropolitan  police  (in  charge  of  all  our  naval  arsenals)  parties 
are  taken  round  at  the  above  hours,  no  "tip"  being  expected  by 
their  personal  conductor,  but  a  small  gratuity  may  be  left  for 
division  among  the  force.  Here  are  to  be  seen  cruisers  of  the 
newest  pattern,  and  perhaps  other  monsters  of  the  deep  which  a 
quarter  of  a  century  ago  were  the  pride  of  our  navy,  now  being 
done  up  to  take  a  back  place  in  the  reserve  ;  also  steam-hammers 
that  can  crack  a  coco-nut  or  knock  into  shape  a  mass  of  many 
tons  ;  sheets  of  steel  brought  to  be  drilled  or  cut  like  a  sheet  of 
paper  ;  the  figure-heads  of  old  ships,  and  many  other  wonders  and 
curiosities. 

The  measurements  of  the  Docks  are  : — 

I.  The  Jive  Docks — 


1.  New  Union,  built  in  1762 

2.  New  North,  built  in  1789 

3.  South  Dock,  built  by  William  III., 

and  since  enlarged 

4.  ITead  Dock,  built  by  George  III.     . 

5.  Stem  Dock  ,, 
(?raw?i5' >S'%,  adjoining  the  Camber    169        69 

II.  The  Chain  Cable  Storehouse,  built  in  1844-48,  cost  nearly 
£40,000.  About  650  chain  cables  are  generally  kept  here,  ready 
for  immediate  service. 

The  Anchor  Smithery  fronts  the  Anchor  "Wharf,  and  is  210  feet 
square.     Forty-eight  forges  and  Nasmyth's  steam-hammer  combine 


Feet 

Feet 

Feet 

'ong. 

broad. 

deep. 

239 

56 

26 

272 

56 

27 

261 

65 

28 

223 

52 

26 

192 

52 

26 

116  PLYMOUTH 

to  produce  a  scene  which,  for  clash,  clangour,  and  lurid  glare, 
recalls  to  the  imagination  a  Cyclopean  pandemonium. 

III.  The  Rope  House  is  built  of  iron  ;  the  Spinning  House  of 
limestone,  three  stories  high,  and  each  1200  feet  in  length  ;  the 
Rigging  Houses  are  two  ranges  of  sheds  480  feet  long,  forming 
one  side  of  a  quadrangle,  while  the  other  sides  are  occupied  with 
storehouses.  The  Camber,  a  canal  70  feet  long,  and  spanned  by 
an  iron  swing-bridge,  communicates  with  the  Boat  Pond.  There 
are,  besides,  mast-houses,  timber-basins,  timber-sheds,  saw-pits, 
building-slips,  reservoirs,  smithies,  mould  or  model-lofts,  some  of 
which  are  not  thrown  open  to  the  public. 

IV.  A  neat  gravel  path  winds  up  to  a  small  mound,  King's 
Hill,  whose  summit  is  crowned  by  a  pavilion,  and  commands  a  line 
view. 

V.  Keyham  Steam  Yard,  connected  with  the  Dockyard  by  a 
tunnel  900  yards  in  length,  occupies  a  sort  of  peninsula  between 
Keyham  Lake,  Hamoaze,  and  Moon's  Cove.  The  entrance  is  from 
Morice  Town  (so  named  from  Sir  William  Morice,  who  purchased 
it  in  1667).  Huge  basins  have  here  been  added  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  our  modern  leviathans. 

YI.  Between  the  Dockyard  and  Keyham  lies  the  Gun  Wharf, 
occupying  five  acres  of  ground.  In  the  Storehouses  are  all  kinds 
of  arms,  and  in  the  open  spaces  between  stand  methodically  arranged 
pyramids  of  cannon  balls,  gun-carriages  of  various  shapes,  and 
rows  of  polished  cannons. 

Devon  port  is  enclosed  by  a  line  of  fortifications,  with  a  ditch 
12  feet  to  20  feet  deep,  excavated  from  the  solid  limestone.  There 
are  Three  Gates — the  Stonehouse  Gate,  leading  to  Plymouth,  the 
Stoke  Barrier  towards  Tavistock,  and  the  North  Barrier,  opening 
on  the  Tamar.  The  King's  Interior  Boundary  Wall  is  12  feet 
high  ;  the  Blockhouse,  with  its  ramparts  and  ditches,  occupies 
an  elevated  position  in  Higher  Stoke. 

Devonport  has  a  system  of  electric  trams  of  its  own, 
which  seems  not  yet  complete  or  finally  connected.  One 
line  starts  from  the  Royal  Albert  Hospital,  running  by  the 
Dockyard  towards  Saltash.  Another  from  Fore  Street  would 
take  us  round  by  the  back  of  Plymouth,  at  the  head  of 
the  deepest  inlet,  reaching  North  Road,  whence  one  can 
descend  into  the  central  quarter. 

Ferries. — The  three  towns  being  so  much  cut  up  by  arms  of 
the  sea,  their  communications  are  much  dependent  upon  ferries, 
both  small  boats  and  steamers,  of  which  the  principal  ones  may 
be  mentioned. 

From  the  Barbican,  steamers  run  across  the  Catwater  every 
half-hour  to  Turnchapel  and  Oreston ;  and  every  ten  minutes  to 
Mount  Batten. 


ENVIRONS    OF    PLYMOUTH  ll7 

Every  hour  (leaving  at  the  half-hours)  from  AdmiraVs  Hard 
to  Cremill  for  Mount  Edgcurabe  ;  and  from  the  same  point 
frequently  to  Mount  Wise,  Devonport. 

The  Devon  and  Cornwall  shores  are  also  connected  by  boats 
from  Mutton  Cove  to  Cremill  and  to  Millbrook  ;  from  Morice  Tovm 
to  Torpoint ;  and  at  Saltash. 

For  Saltash,  a  steamer  leaves  North  Corner,  Devonport,  at  the 
half-hours,  returning  at  the  hours ;  and  less  frequently  from  the 
Hoe  Pier. 

A  Steam  Ferry  Bridge  plies  between  the  Dockyard  and  Tor 
Point,  on  the  Cornish  shore. 

The  fare  for  most  of  these  ferries  is  a  matter  of  coppers.  The 
"Watermen's  fares  for  small  boats  make  a  question  rather  too  large 
and  elastic  to  be  comprised  here.  They  begin  at  3d.  for  a  single 
passenger  crossing  the  Catwater,  and  at  Is.  an  hour,  an  increase 
being  reasonably  expected  in  rough  weather,  and  never  unexpected 
in  any  state  of  wind  or  tide. 


ENVIRONS  OF  PLYMOUTH 

The  heights  behind  offer  several  view  points  that  give 
an  idea  of  the  country  close  at  hand.  For  example,  one 
might  take  the  tram,  or  follow  its  rails,  uphill  to  the 
Gompton  and  Mannamead  suburbs.  From  the  stopping- 
place  at  Compton  Lane,  Lane  End,  one  keeps  on  a  little  way 
to  the  top  of  the  hill,  where,  on  the  right,  the  Hartley 
Pleasure  Ground^  laid  out  beside  a  Reservoir,  looks  over  the 
outskirts  of  the  town  to  a  stretch  of  Dartmoor.  Lower 
down  on  this  route  would  have  been  passed  another  basin  of 
the  Plymouth  water-supply,  first  brought  by  Sir  F.  Drake 
from  the  moor  (p.  132).  This  is  the  high  road  to  Dartmoor, 
a  mile  or  so  out  on  which  is  reached  the  village-suburb  now 
entitled  Grown  Hill,  but  once  better  known  as  Knacker's 
Knoll.  Here  roads  diverge,  left,  to  St.  Budeaux  and  Tamerton 
Foliott  (p.  124) ;  and  on  the  other  side  go  off  winding  ways  to 
the  Plym  Valley,  reached  at  Marsh  Mills  (p.  123)  in  an  hour 
or  so's  walk  by  the  pleasant  village  of  Egg  BucUand. 

In  the  fine  season  conveyances  from  the  Clock  Tower 
make  excursions  to  various  points  of  the  vicinity. 

Plymouth  Sound. — Having  surveyed  Plymouth  by  land, 
we  will  now  take  to  the  water,  aflPording  such  grand  sea- 
scapes, which  one  is  in  danger  of  half  forgetting  on  shores 


118  ^  PLYMOUTH 

occupied  by  a  great  town.  Plymouth  Sound  has  reminded 
travellers  of  Sydney  Harbour,  which  in  these  days  of  globe 
trotting  seems  to  have  supplanted  the  Bay  of  Naples  as  a 
standard  of  beauty  in  such  scenes.  With  its  puzzling 
maze  of  inlets  it  may  be  roughly  compared,  in  arrangement 
if  not  in  proportions,  to  a  hand  with  outstretched  fingers,  the 
palm  represented  by  the  harbour  itself.  The  thumb,  then, 
is  the  Catwater,  curved  deeply  in  between  Mount  Batten  and 
Gatdown,  receiving  the  estuary  of  the  Plym,  w-hich  here  loses 
its  name  in  that  of  the  Laira.  The  forefinger  points  to 
Sutton  Pool,  its  extreme  points  named  "  Bear's  Head "  and 
"Fisher's  Nose."  The  second  finger  indicates  Millhay, 
lying  between  the  Hoe  and  Stonehouse,  whose  head  forms 
the  Great  Western  Docks.  The  third  finger  points  up  the 
far-reaching  creek  already  spoken  of  as  Stonehouse  Lake  or 
the  Pool,  which  divides  Stonehouse  from  Devonport.  The 
little  finger,  which  ought  to  be  the  largest,  stands  for  the 
anchorage  of  Hamoaze,  formed  by  the  estuary  of  the  Tamar, 
whose  east  bank  is  for  some  distance  taken  up  by  the  Koyal 
Dockyard,  Gun  Wharf,  and  Steam  Yard.  Beyond  the  latter 
Keyham  Lake  runs  inland.  On  the  opposite  side  the  shore 
is  deeply  indented  by  Millbrook,  St.  John's  Lake,  and  other 
creeks,  then  below  Saltash  by  the  estuary  of  the  St.  Germans 
or  Lynher  river,  itself  branching  off  into  numerous  arms. 
Above  Saltash  unite  the  waters  of  the  Tamar  and  the  Tavy. 

Off  the  Hoe  lies  the  low  fort-crowned  island  of  St.  Nicholas, 
commonly  known  as  Drake's  Island.  The  island,  with  its 
fortifications,  was  held  by  the  Parliamentarians  during  the  Civil 
War,  though  on  two  occasions  nearly  betrayed  into  Royalist  hands  ; 
and  after  the  Restoration  it  became  a  state  prison,  in  which, 
amongst  others,  General  Lambert  was  kept  captive  till  his  death. 
Its  formidable  defensive  works  are  of  great  importance,  as  com- 
manding the  entrance  to  the  Sound.  It  is  about  3  acres  in  extent, 
connected  with  the  Cornwall  shore  by  a  range  of  low  rocks,  called 
the  Bridge,  impassable  even  at  high  water,  except  for  the  smallest 
and  lightest  craft,  and  sometimes  at  low  tides  so  dry  that  the 
island  almost  loses  its  character.  Civilians,  we  fancy,  are  not 
encouraged  to  visit  this  place  of  arms,  except  on  business,  else  we 
should  recommend  its  views  of  the  Sound. 

Some  two  miles  down  the  Sound  is  seen  the  low  mass  of  the 
Breakwater.     It  also  is  insulated,  having  on  either  hand  a  good 


PLYMOUTH   SOUND  119 

channel,  which  admits  the  egress  or  ingress  of  the  largest  ships  at 
any  time  of  the  tide.  Between  its  wall  and  the  north  shore  forty- 
sail  of  the  line,  besides  smaller  vessels,  can  ride  in  safety.  It  was 
commenced  in  1812,  under  the  direction  of  Rennie,  and  for  thirty- 
four  years  took  the  daily  labour  of  200  men.  About  4,000,000 
tons  of  granite  were  used  at  a  cost  of  a  million  and  a  half.  Its 
length  in  the  centre  is  1000  yards,  with  two  arms,  350  yards  long, 
which  trend  towards  the  north.  The  width  at  the  base  varies 
from  300  to  400  feet,  narrowing  to  45  feet  at  the  top  ;  the  depth 
from  80  to  40  feet,  according  to  the  inequalities  of  its  foundation  ; 
and  at  high  spring-tides  it  rises  but  two  or  three  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  Lighthouse,  at  the  west  end,  of  white  granite,  55  feet 
high,  and  114  feet  diameter  at  its  base,  was  constructed  in  1841. 
At  the  east  end  stands  a  beacon,  with  a  hollow  globe  for  the 
shelter  of  shipwrecked  seamen.  One  can  walk  along  the  top  when 
the  waves  are  not  too  boisterous.  The  Breakwater  may  be  visited 
by  boat,  and  is  a  favourite  point  for  short  steamboat  trips. 

Near  the  extremities  of  the  Breakwater  are  on  opposite  sides 
Bovisand  Fort,  a  recent  erection  of  immense  strength,  and 
Picklecombe  Fort ;  and  half-way  between,  the  Breakwater  Fort — 
the  three  together  making  a  formidable  line  of  defence  for  the 
protection  of  the  port. 

Mount  Edgcumbe.  —  The  grounds  of  Lord  Mount 
Edgcumbe's  famous  seat  on  the  Cornwall  shore  are  the 
chief  lion  of  the  neighbourhood,  and  justly  so,  for  it  is  hard 
to  say  whether  the  view  of  them  from  Plymouth,  or  the 
view  of  Plymouth  from  their  wooded  heights,  be  the  more 
beautiful.  They  are  thrown  open  to  the  public  once  a  week, 
as  a  rule  on  Wednesdays,  changed  to  the  first  Saturday  in 
each  month  for  the  convenience  of  the  Dockyard  people. 
On  other  days  a  special  order  must  be  obtained  at  the  Manor 
House  office  near  Admiral's  Hard.  The  regular  ferry  leaves 
Admiral's  Hard  at  the  half-hours,  and  returns  at  the  hours. 
The  park  gate  is  close  to  the  landing-place  at  Cremill,  to 
which,  on  the  public  day,  a  steamer  runs  from  the  Hoe  pier 
also  ;  and  small  boats  can  be  taken  from  Devonport. 

Mount  Edgcumbe  forms  the  end  of  a  promontory,  4  to  5 
miles  in  length,  and  3  miles  in  breadth.  The  Mansion,  a 
castellated  Tudor  building,  dates  from  1550.  The  Hall,  in 
the  centre  of  the  building,  rises  to  the  second  story,  and  is 
adorned  \vith  Doric  columns  and  pilasters  of  Devonshire 
marble.  The  pictures  are  chiefly  family  portraits,  and 
include  four  by  Sir  Peter  Lely.     There  are  also  four  by  Sir 


120  PLYMOUTH 

Joshua  Reynolds.  Visitors  are  not  admitted  to  the  house, 
nor  without  special  order  to  the  gardens — English,  French, 
and  Italian,  embellished  with  fountains,  vases,  busts,  and 
statues. 

The  outer  grounds  are  extensive  enough  to  take  up  a  whole  after- 
noon in  wandering  through  their  beauties,  with  charming  views  at 
every  point,  especially  from  the  south  side.  Going  up  the  avenue, 
turn  across  the  front  of  the  house,  and  from  its  south  side  follow  a 
walk  which  leads  past  a  ruin  on  a  knoll,  then  in  the  hollow  below, 
near  the  edge  of  the  sea,  will  be  seen  Beechwood  Cottage,  one  of 
several  places  where  tea  can  be  had.  The  road  holding  up  behind 
this  leads  through  a  gate  and  arch  into  Laurel  Walk,  a  magnificent 
terrace  of  evergreens  winding  high  above  the  sea,  which  makes 
the  finest  part  of  the  whole  demesne.  Coming  thus  round  to 
PicMecomhe  Fort,  one  can  pass  behind  it  and  descend  to  Cawsand, 
or  strike  up  on  the  right  for  Maker  Church,  and  the  highest  point, 
then  come  round  the  other  side  of  the  park,  with  views  up  the 
estuary.  H.M.  Queen  Victoria,  in  her  published  diary,  gives 
warm  praise  to  this  Cornish  paradise,  on  which  the  Duke  of 
Medina-Sidonia  is  said  to  have  fixed  as  his  share  of  the  spoil  after 
that  expected  conquest  by  the  Invincible  Armada  under  his 
command,  but  had  to  go  without,  like  Napoleon,  who  also,  on  his 
way  to  exile,  viewed  with  envy  such  a  charming  retreat.  Un- 
fortunately, great  mischief  was  done  to  these  fine  woods  by  the 
ruinous  blizzard  that  so  much  amazed  Devonshire  in  the  spring  of 
1891. 

On  the  upper  edge  of  the  grounds  stands  Maker  Church,  with 
its  Mount  Edgcumbe  family  monuments,  from  the  tower  or 
churchyard  of  which  there  is  another  extensive  view.  The  Lych 
Gate  is  noticeable  and  the  old  Font  within.  Past  the  Church,  our 
walk  may  be  extended  to  the  little  seaside  resorts  of  Eingsand  and 
Cawsand,  2^  miles  from  Creraill,  and  further,  to  Penlee  Point  and 
Rame  Head.  Kingsand  and  Cawsand  are  parts  of  a  quaint  and 
picturesque  little  village,  with  narrow  winding  streets,  on  the 
deep  bay  between  Penlee  Point  and  Picklecombe  Point.  A  joyful 
sight  has  Cawsand  Bay  been  to  many  an  English  tar  returning 
from  foreign  shores.  Rame  Head  has  on  its  summit  the  ruins  of 
a  little  Chapel,  and  commands  a  view  of  the  coast  extending  to 
the  Lizard,  including  the  Eddystoue  Lighthouse.  All  these  places 
are  in  Cornwall,  into  which  we  must  trespass  more  than  once  on 
our  excursions  from  Plymouth. 

Millbrook,  Cawsand,  St.  John's  Lake,  etc. — Even  if  the  Mount 
Edgcumbe  grounds  be  not  open,  a  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken 
round  them  to  Cawsand,  for  which  brakes  run  from  the  ferry 
several  times  a  day.     As  we  follow  the  road,  skirting  the  park,  a 


THE    CORNISH    SHORE  121 

path  soon  turns  off  to  the  right  through  the  exercise-ground  of  the 
Training  Ship  boys,  where  an  obelisk  stands  on  a  hillock  as  sea- 
mark. This  path  leads  to  the  Steward's  house,  by  the  wooded 
edge  of  Millbrook  Inlet,  with  an  outlook  over  the  Hamoaze ;  and 
it  might  be  continued  all  the  way  up  to  31illhrook,  an  economical 
residence  for  dockyard  people,  retired  skippers,  and  the  families 
of  such,  from  which  there  is  a  road  (1^  m.)  across  to  the  coast  at 
Whitesand  Bay,  and  a  rather  longer  one  to  Cawsand.  The  path 
behind  the  Steward's  house,  however,  leads  us  up  again  to  the  high 
road  from  Cremill,  which,  looking  back  over  the  docks,  we  ascend  for 
about  a  mile  to  Maker  Church  at  the  top,  where  opens  the  view 
on  the  other  side  of  the  promontory.  A  gate  in  the  wall  of  the 
field  before  the  church  shows  a  footpath  leading  down  to 
PicMecoTTibe  and  Cawsand  ;  or  the  road  carries  us  on  to  these  and 
the  other  places  mentioned  above,  and  beyond  Bxime  Head,  to 
Whitesand.  Bay  (where  bathing  requires  caution)  along  which  we 
might  make  a  further  round  3  or  4  miles  to  Tregantle  Fort,  to 
return  by  Antony  and  the  ferry  at  Tor  Point.  Thus  we  should  have 
seen  nearly  all  the  peninsula  between  the  Lynher  river  and  the 
open  sea,  where  already  we  begin  to  get  a  hint  of  some  of  the 
characteristic  Cornish  features. 

Another  agreeable  Cornish  ramble  of  half  a  dozen  miles  would 
be  by  turning  right  from  Millbrook  to  the  village  of  St.  John's, 
then  round  the  St.  John's  Lake  to  Tor  Point. 

Saltash,  on  the  Cornish  side,  4  miles  above  Plymouth,  may 
be  reached  by  G.  W.  rail  or  the  road  through  Devonport ; 
but  on  fine  days  the  pleasanter  way  is  by  steamer  up  the 
Hamoaze  (pronounced  Hamoze\  the  principal  anchorage  for 
ships  of  war  stationed  at  Plymouth,  where  costly  leviathans 
of  the  latest  pattern  contrast  with  the  tall  hulls  and  square 
port-holes  of  the  obsolete  training  ships.  Beyond  the  Dock- 
yards this  thronged  road  widens  out  into  an  inlet  on  either 
hand,  that  to  the  left  the  mouth  of  the  Lynher  River,  skirted 
by  the  grounds  of  Anthony  House;  then  we  come  into  view 
of  the  Royal  Albert  Bridge  at  Saltash,  one  of  Brunei's 
greatest  conceptions. 

Its  length  is  2240  feet ;  its  breadth  30  feet ;  from  its  foundations 
to  its  summit  it  rises  260  feet,  sufficient  to  clear  a  man-of-war  with 
all  her  canvas  set.  It  consists  of  19  spans,  each  of  double  chains 
composed  of  15  bars  ;  the  two  central  spans,  resting  upon  a  main 
central  pillar  driven  into  the  solid  rock  through  70  feet  of  sea  and 
20  feet  of  soil,  extend  900  feet.  The  lower  span  carries  the  rail- 
way ;  the  upper,  of  wrought  iron,  is  firmly  attached  to  it.  The 
main  piers,  on  each  side  of  the  river,  are  11  feet  square,  of  solid 


122  ^  PLYMOUTH 

masonry,  and  190  feet  from  base  to  crown.  2700  tons  of  wrought 
iron,  1300  tons  of  cast-iron,  14,000  cubic  yards  of  timber,  and 
17,000  cubic  yards  of  stone,  were  employed  in  the  erection  of  this 
bridge,  which  has  now  had  its  nose  put  rather  out  of  joint  by  the 
still  more  wonderful  engineering  feat  of  spanning  the  Forth.  For 
permission  to  inspect  the  bridge  apply  to  the  station-master. 

There  is  not  much  else  to  see  at  Saltash  ;  but  from  the 
pier  we  may  go  up  past  the  church  to  the  old  quarter  of  St. 
Stephen^ s,  where  St.  Stephen^ s  Mount  gives  a  good  view  over 
the  Tamar.  It  is  reached  by  the  main  street,  with  a  turn 
to  the  right  after  passing  the  Green  Dragon  Inn. 

Round  the  head  of  a  little  creek  behind  St.  Stephen's  (2  m. ), 
or  by  ferry,  we  can  visit  Trematon  Castle,  an  ivy -draped  ruin 
among  woods.  Several  interesting  features  survive  of  this  strong- 
hold dating  almost  back  to  the  Conquest ;  but  the  materials 
have  in  part  been  used  for  a  modern  mansion.  The  grounds 
are,  or  used  to  be,  open  on  Wednesdays. 

Hence  a  ferry  will  take  us  across  the  Lynher  to  East  Anthony. 
The  mansion,  built  for  Sir.  W.  Carew  in  1721,  contains  fine 
pictures  by  Holhein,  VandycJc,  Lely,  Reynolds^  and  other  masters  ; 
it  is  now  the  seat  of  Sir  R.  Pole- Carew,  one  of  our  South  African 
heroes.  (For  permission  to  view,  in  absence  of  the  owner,  apply 
to  the  steward  at  Wilcove  Farm,  Tor  Point.)  The  wooded  grounds 
also  are  admirable.  The  Church  is  an  ancient  building,  its  site 
excavated  on  a  steep  hillside,  the  churchyard  preserving  a  pair 
of  stocks  as  a  curiosity.  The  road  past  Thankes,  situated  on  a 
wooded  slope  overlooking  the  Hamoaze,  leads  to  Tor  Point,  one 
of  the  main  ferries  between  Cornwall  and  Devon,  where  we  can 
return  to  Plymouth  by  Devonport.  The  steam  bridge  leaves  the 
Devon  side  half-hourly  at  the  quarters,  returning  at  the  half-hours. 

Saltram  and  the  Plym. — To  the  other  side  of  Plymouth, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Plym  estuary,  known  as  the  Laira, 
where  it  opens  into  the  Catwater,  stretch  the  Earl  of  Morley's 
grounds  at  Saltram,  reached  by  Laira  Bridge^  some  mile 
and  a  half  from  the  centre  of  the  town.  The  Prince  Bock 
tramway  takes  us  almost  to  this  bridge,  on  which,  and  on 
the  embankment  leading  to  it,  two  small  tolls  have  to  be 
paid  successively  by  the  surprised  stranger.  Beyond  is  the 
quarrying  village  of  Laira,  with  an  inn,  where  one  turns  up 
the  water  to  the  left,  almost  at  once  entering  the  grounds. 

This  point  is  to  be  reached  also  by  taking  the  Barbican 
half-hourly  ferry  to  the  higgledy-piggledy  village  of  Oreston, 


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ACROSS   THE    PLTM  123 

among  the  limestone  quarries,  which  is  not  far  below  Laira 
Bridge,  but  an  intervening  creek  obliges  one  to  go  a  mile 
round  (by  a  lane  turning  to  the  left  past  the  Post  Office), 
unless  the  way  were  made  out  more  directly  through  the 
labyrinth  of  quarried  cliffs.  In  a  cave  of  the  quarries,  35 
feet  below  the  ground,  bones  and  teeth  of  elephants,  hyaenas, 
tigers,  and  other  beasts  of  prey,  and  the  jaw  of  a  horse  en- 
crusted with  stalagmite  have  been  found. 

The  grounds  of  Saltram  are  finely  wooded,  and  the  house 
is  a  handsome  structure,  containing  many  treasures  of  art 
by  famous  masters,  with  an  enumeration  of  which  we  will 
not  tantalise  the  reader,  since  they  are  not  open  to  the 
public.  The  gallery  was  formed  by  the  advice  of  Sir  Joshua 
Keynolds,  and  includes  one  of  the  best  collections  of  his  own 
works. 

The  Park  is  free  to  visitors  so  long  as  they  keep  on  the  drives. 
The  Race  Course  of  Plymouth  is  in  the  grounds  near  the  river 
entrance.  An  agreeable  walk,  at  first  open,  then  entering  a  wood, 
skirts  the  side  of  the  estuary,  which  looks  so  well  at  full  tide  from 
the  railway  opposite.  At  Marsh  Mills  (G.  W.  R.  station,  p.  131), 
the  head  of  the  creek,  boats  may  be  hired  when  the  tide  is  iu. 
Beyond  this  point  the  Plym  becomes  a  beautiful  inland  stream, 
buried  in  rich  woods,  up  which  one  may  ramble  for  several  miles, 
or  mount  the  heights  on  the  right  to  Leemoor,  from  which  the 
pedestrian  could  come  down  to  take  train  at  Plympton  or  at  Corn- 
wood  (pp.  100,  101). 

Mount  Batten  will  be  seen  across  the  mouth  of  the 
Catwater,  inviting  a  trip  to  it  by  the  ferry,  then  a  walk  over 
it  and  along  the  Staddon  Heights,  that  look  down  on  the 
Breakwater.  Red  flags  will  give  warning  when  and  where 
there  is  danger  from  military  rifle  practice.  This  is  a  cliflf 
walk  too  little  known  to  strangers,  and  which  too  much 
gives  up  to  barracks  and  forts  what  was  meant  for  mankind. 
It  continues  for  miles  past  the  pier  at  Bovisand  Bay,  where 
the  ships  of  the  navy  take  in  water  from  a  large  reservoir  ; 
then  one  might  follow  the  coast  by  Wembury  Church,  with 
its  Hele  monuments,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yealm,  which  we 
must  visit  by  steamer  presently. 

The  L.  and  S.-W.  branch  to  Tumchapel  puts  us  down  near 
Mount  Batten.     From  Orestm^  on  the  way,  one  could  walk 


124  PLYMOUTH 

through  the  Radford  Woods^  bearing  to  the  right  behind  the 
mansion  and  striking  a  road  down  to  the  coast.  Or  turning 
inland,  one  reaches  Plymstock,  which  has  a  fine  old  church 
half  an  hour's  walk  from  the  Laira  Bridge  ;  and  there  is  a 
Plymstock  railway  station  both  on  the  G.  W.  R.  Yealmpton 
branch  and  the  L.  &  S.  -W.  branch  to  Turnchapel. 

St.  Budeaux  now  almost  makes  part  of  Devonport ;  and 
the  tram  towards  Saltash  would  carry  us  a  good  part  of  the 
way  out  to  it,  as  also  the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  From  the  tower 
of  the  Church,  hotly  defended  by  Cavaliers  in  the  Civil  War, 
there  is  a  good  view  over  the  Tamar  and  its  valley.  Hence 
an  hour's  walk  northwards  through  winding  lanes  leads  to 
Tamerton  Foliott,  a  picturesque  old  village  at  the  head 
of  a  creek  of  the  Tamar,  with  Warleigh  Tor  rising  over  its 
confluence  with  the  Tavy,  where  stands  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  mansion.  Behind,  to  the  east,  are  the  heights  by 
which  the  Tavistock  road  mounts  up  to  Eoborough  Down 
(pp.  131,  132),  so  by  making  for  this  one  could  have  a  pleasant 
round  of  2  or  3  hours  on  foot,  with  tramways  to  get  through 
the  streets  at  either  end. 


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EXCURSIONS  FROM   PLYMOUTH 

It  has  already  been  mentioned  how  in  the  fine  season 
a  whole  fleet  of  excursion  steamers  start  daily  to  various 
points,  going  up  the  various  estuaries  which  make  the 
special  features  of  the  scenery  hereabouts,  or  along  the 
coast  as  far  as  Falmouth  in  one  direction,  Salcombe  and 
Dartmouth  in  the  other.  Is.  or  Is.  6d.  is  the  usual  fare 
for  these  trips,  or  as  little  as  6d.  for  a  turn  out  to  the 
Breakwater.  Most  of  the  steamers  start  from  the  Hoe  Pier  ; 
but  some  belonging  to  the  G.  W.  R.  from  their  own  pier  in 
the  docks.  The  G.  "W.  boats  do  not  run  on  Sunday,  which 
is  a  great  day  for  other  steamers.  Particulars  are  published 
from  day  to  day  in  the  local  papers,  and  in  bills  at  the 
pier,  etc. 

The  following  are  the  most  popular  trips,  done  in  the 
course  of  a  forenoon  or  afternoon  : — 

THE  EDDYSTONE  LIGHTHOUSE 

To  this  there  are  one  or  two  excursions  almost  every  fine 
day.  Passengers  do  not  land  at  the  lighthouse,  which 
stands  on  a  reef  in  the  open  sea,  14  miles  from  Plymouth. 
The  scenery  of  the  Sound  being  left  behind,  they  have 
the  chance  of  falling  in  with  some  great  armoured  cruiser, 
or  of  watching  the  slower  manoeuvres  of  the  training  brigs 
which  every  morning  take  their  bluejacket  scholars  out  to 
sea  for  a  lesson  in  naval  life,  as  it  was  in  the  old  days. 

The  history  of  the  Eddystone  is  a  remarkable  one. 

A  line  of  rocks,  12  miles  distant  from  the  shore,  stretches 
between  the  Start  and  Lizard,  600  feet  across  the  Channel,  and 
collecting  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  around  it,  creates  a  whirl 
and  a  restless  motion  which  have  suggested  to  seamen  the  signifi- 
cant name  of  the  Eddy-stone.     Upon  one  of  these,  which  at  low 


126  EXCURSIONS  FROM  PLYMOUTH 

water  just  raises  itself  above  the  ocean  level,  Henry  Winstanley, 
a  man  of  singular  mechanical  ingenuity,  contrived,  in  1696,  to 
raise  a  wooden  lighthouse.  It  was  100  feet  high,  had  numerous 
quaint  projections,  and  an  open  gallery  at  the  top  through  which 
in  nautical  parlance,  a  high  sea  would  have  carried  a  six-oared 
galley.  Winstanley,  however,  believed  in  its  stability,  and  ex- 
pressed a  hope  that  he  might  be  within  it  on  the  occasion  of  a 
storm.  His  wish  was  granted  :  while  effecting  some  alterations, 
on  the  night  of  26th  November  1703,  he  was  caught  in  a  fearful 
gale,  and  next  morning  there  remained  nothing  of  the  light- 
house but  a  few  rugged  stones  and  a  fragment  of  iron  chain  ! 

Mr.  John  Rudyerd,  a  silk-mercer  of  Ludgate  Hill,  then  resolved 
to  attempt  the  construction  of  a  more  durable  building.  Choosing 
the  frustum  of  a  cone  for  his  model,  he  built  up  five  courses  of 
heavy  stones  upon  the  rock,  and  thereupon  erected  a  superstructure 
of  wood,  simple,  unornamented,  and  free  from  projections  and 
open  galleries.  The  whole  was  92  feet  high.  It  was  begun  in 
1706  and  completed  in  1709.  For  years  it  admirably  answered 
its  beneficent  purpose  ;  but  about  two  o'clock  on  the  morning  of 
2nd  December  1755,  some  Cawsand  Bay  fishermen,  and  the  look- 
outs on  board  Admiral  Westrode's  fleet,  then  at  anchor  in  the 
Sound,  gave  the  alarm  that  the  Eddystone  Lighthouse  was  on 
fire.  It  burnt  for  days,  until  by  the  7th  only  a  few  cramps  of 
blackened  iron  remained. 

Mr.  Smeaton,  the  great  engineer,  was  now  applied  to  by  Govern- 
ment, and,  taking  the  trunk  of  a  forest  oak  for  his  model,  he 
commenced  the  erection  o^  the  third  lighthouse  on  the  1st  of  June 
1757,  and  completed  it  on  the  24th  of  August  1759.  It  was  a 
circular  tower  of  stone,  sweeping  up  with  a  gentle  curve  from  the 
base,  where  it  was  set  in  a  socket  3  inches  deep  in  the  solid  rock, 
and  gradually  diminishing  towards  the  summit.  On  the  cornice 
was  the  inscription :  *  *  Unless  the  Lord  build  the  house,  their 
labour  is  in  vain  that  build  it." 

This  lighthouse  maintained  its  position,  secure  and  triumphant 
over  the  attacks  of  the  sea,  for  more  than  120  years.  The  rock, 
however,  upon  which  it  was  built  was  not  so  impregnable,  and 
the  safety  of  the  structure  being  imperilled,  a  new  lighthouse  (the 
fourth)  was  erected  upon  an  adjacent  part  of  the  reef  from  the 
designs  of  Mr.  Douglass  in  1881-82.  This  structure,  inaugurated 
May  1882  by  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  rises  130  feet  in  height, 
consists  of  2171  stones  weighing  4661  tons,  and  contains  nine 
chambers.  Smeaton's  lighthouse,  still  to  be  seen  on 'the  Hoe, 
was  only  72  feet  high,  weighed  988  tons,  and  contained  four 
chambers.     The  new  light  overlaps  that  from  the  Lizard. 

THE  YEALM 
The  estuary  of  this  river  (pronounced  Yahm)  is  entered 
more  or  less  deeply  by  steamers,  according  to  the  state  of 


THE    YEALM  127 

the  tide.  Sailing  between  the  Breakwater  and  the  Staddon 
Heights,  they  steer  for  the  Mewstone,  a  prominent  pyramid 
of  rock  and  turf  that  stands  up  out  of  the  sea  off  the  river 
mouth.  Here  there  may  be  a  little  knocking  about  in  the 
open  sea,  but  if  we  have  any  qualms,  there  soon  "  comes 
a  peace  out  of  pain"  as  the  boat  turns  into  quiet  water 
landlocked  between  high  banks,  the  rich  foliage  of  which 
is  mirrored  below. 

What  we  do  next  must  depend  on  the  tide.  Sometimes 
we  can  steam  up  the  Kitley  River,  as  the  longer  arm  is 
called.  At  low  water  our  Argo  may  be  able  to  go  no 
farther  than  the  creek  on  the  right,  where  she  sticks  fast 
between  the  villages  of  Newton  Ferrers  and  Noss,  whose 
church  towers,  "so  near  and  yet  so  far,"  confront  each 
other  over  a  bed  of  water  or  mud  hardly  as  broad  as  the 
Thames  at  Windsor.  If  the  pier  be  for  the  moment  in- 
accessible, we  might  have  an  adventurous  small-boat  voyage  of 
a  few  yards,  to  land  for  a  stroll  through  one  or  the  other 
village  of  white-washed  cottages  overgrown  with  vines  and 
creepers,  whose  amphibious  industry,  as  in  other  villages 
of  this  cr^ast,  is  much  concerned  with  shell-fish.  A  new 
landing-stage  has  probably  facilitated  disembarkation  here. 

An  estate  is  laid  out  for  building  on  the  shore  below 
Newton  Ferrers,  where  has  been  opened  the  Yealm  Hotel 
(see  below),  and  there  are  humbler  inns  and  tea  houses 
in  the  villages.  Both  Newton  and  Noss  have  finely  restored 
churches,  with  rich  interior  decorations. 

If  able  to  go  up  the  Kitley  River,  one  might  profit  by 
this  opportunity  of  getting  on  shore  towards  Yealmpton, 
to  walk  back  after  taking  more  than  a  short  peep  at  a 
pretty  corner  of  the  county  too  much  neglected.  The 
beautiful  grounds  of  Kitley  lie  at  the  head  of  a  creek,  near 
Brixton,  with  its  ancient  church,  two  miles  short  of 
Yealm  pton.  Here  the  remains  of  elephants  and  other 
prehistoric  animals  were  discovered  in  a  cave.  The  creek 
running  up  to  the  right  takes  us  to  Puslinch,  where  is  a 
quay  for  Yealmpton. 

On  land,  this  neighbourhood  may  be  visited  by  the 
railway  to   Yealmpton   (G.    W.    K.),   which    has   a  noble 


128  EXCURSIONS   PROM    PLYMOUTH 

rebuilt  Church,  with  an  old  tower  and  a  very  ancient  slab 
in  the  churchyard,  inscribed  Torens,  the  origin  of  which  is 
unknown.  Beside  the  Church  stood  a  building  traditionally 
famed  as  a  palace  of  King  Ethelwold.  From  Steer  Point 
Station  a  few  minutes'  walk  down  a  Devonshire  lane  brings 
us  to  a  steam  launch  that,  on  the  wooded  river,  connects 
the  trains  (3d.)  with  the  Yealm  Hotel.  From  Yealmpton 
Station  a  trap  (6d.)  meeting  most  trains  takes  its  hilly  way 
(3  J  miles)  to  the  village  of  Newton  Ferrers,  above  the  hotel, 
with  fine  views  of  the  South  Hams  and  Dartmoor,  then 
over  Membland  Park  to  the  left.  The  lion  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood is  the  beautiful  and  extensive  Membland  Drive, 
running  for  several  miles  round  the  promontory  to  the  east 
of  the  Yealm,  by  Revelstoke,  where  the  old  church  has 
fallen  into  picturesque  ruin.  (This  Drive  is  at  present 
open  on  Saturdays.) 

To  Bantham  and  the  Avon  is  a  longer  voyage,  giving, 
beyond  the  Yealm  mouth,  a  view  of  the  cliffs  of  Bigbury 
Bay,  in  the  middle  of  which  the  wooded  Erme  mouth 
opens  a  glimpse  of  Dartmoor  in  the  background.  Bighury 
spire  appears  on  the  heights,  and  below  Burr  Island  shuts 
in  the  mouth  of  the  Avon,  winding  down  between  its  high 
banks.  The  river  needs  cautious  entering ;  a  mile  or  so 
up,  on  the  left  shore,  stands  Bantham,  where  one  can  go 
ashore  in  boats  (Id.),  but  there  is  not  much  to  see  here,  in 
the  time  given,  unless  by  hurrying  up  the  slopes  for  a  view 
up  the  reaches  of  the  river,  or  eastwards  over  to  Thurlestone. 
(Torquay  Section,  p.  95.) 

The  boats  occasionally  go  a  little  farther  along  the  coast, 
to  Hope  Cove  (p.  95),  which  is  a  very  picturesque  nook 
of  the  coast ;  and  beyond  this,  besides  excursions  to  Salcomhe, 
whose  beauties  are  described  in  our  Torquay  Section  (p.  92), 
steamers  of  business  run  from.  Sutton  Pool  to  the  head  of  the 
estuary  at  Kingsbridge  (p.  89). 

UP  THE  TAMAR 

This  is  a  very  popular  excursion,  the  steamer  running  to 
JFeir  Head,  25  m.  from  the  Hoe,  in  about  two  hours  with 


UP   THE    TAMAR  129 

half-a-dozen  stoppages,  which  makes  a  cheap  sail  for  Is.  6d. 
There  is  at  least  one  boat  almost  every  day  in  summer. 

Beyond  Saltash,  when  we  have  threaded  our  way  up  the 
Hamoaze,  the  Tamar  expands  again  into  what  is,  at  high 
tide,  a  wide  lake,  branching  out  within  two  miles  in  four 
directions,  the  most  northerly  branches  being  the  Tavy  on 
the  right,  and  the  Tamar  itself  on  the  left,  whose  course 
some  pronounce  more  picturesque  than  the  much -lauded 
lower  Dart.  We  keep  up  the  Tamar,  passing,  on  the 
Cornish  side,  the  village  of  Landulph,  whose  church  contains 
a  monumental  brass,  with  a  long  inscription,  to  Theodore 
Palaeologus,  dubiously  claiming  to  be  the  last  descendant  of 
the  Greek  Emperors,  buried  here  in  1636.  A  little  farther 
we  pass,  on  the  same  side,  the  hamlet  of  Car  Green  (Inns), 
two  miles  beyond  which  the  channel  of  the  stream  bends 
suddenly  back  to  the  left  and  forms  a  deep  horse- shoe. 
At  the  back  of  this  bend,  on  the  Cornish  side,  is  Pentillie 
Castle,  surrounded  by  lovely  grounds  and  venerable  woods, 
beyond  which  rises  the  hill  called  Mount  Ararat,  crowned 
by  a  tower.  The  woods  overhanging  the  river  bank  are  a 
most  pleasing  feature.  Some  boats  stop  here,  giving  their 
passengers  a  short  run  on  shore. 

Beyond  Pentillie,  we  reach,  in  less  than  three  miles, 
Gothele  Quay,  the  landing  for  Cothele  House,  a  granite 
mansion,  dating  from  the  time  of  Henry  VII.,  which  belongs 
to  the  Mount  Edgcumbe  family,  and  is  shown  to  visitors  in 
their  absence.  The  great  hall  and  other  rooms  contain  a 
fine  show  of  armour  and  antiquities.  The  house  is  not  seen 
from  the  water,  but  near  Cothele  Quay  we  have  a  glimpse 
of  a  little  chapel  built  by  an  ancestor  of  the  Edgcumbes 
to  commemorate  his  escape  from  the  tender  mercies  of 
Richard  III. 

Above  Cothele  the  river  commences  a  succession  of 
eccentric  windings  towards  every  point  of  the  compass.  On 
the  Cornish  side  we  halt  at  Calstock  {Ashburton  Hotel  and 
Inns),  to  which  the  fare  is  only  Is.,  and  a  good  many 
excursionists  disembark  here  to  stretch  their  legs  and  taste 
the  produce  of  its  famous  strawberry  beds,  or  otherwise 
refresh  themselves  while  awaiting  the  return  of  the  boat. 


130  EXCURSIONS  FROM  PLYMOUTH 

Yet  beyond  is  the  best  part  of  the  river  course,  where  it 
twists  and  turns  through  miles  of  green-clad  crags  and 
pinnacles,  making  a  circuit  round  Calstock  Church,  from 
which  there  is  a  fine  view  of  its  wanderings  along  the 
Morwell  Rocks.  From  Morwellham  Quay,  by  the  inclined 
plain  of  the  Tavistock  Canal,  we  might  climb  up  these  rocks 
for  the  prospect  to  the  other  side  ;  then  here  we  should  be 
within  an  hour's  walk  of  Tavistock  (p.  134).  The  finest 
reach  of  all,  perhaps,  is  the  last,  ringed  about  by  broken 
and  wooded  cliffs  at  Weir  Head,  where  the  steamer  has  to 
be  turned  with  caution,  and  starts  back  as  soon  as  she  can 
get  her  head  down  stream,  carrying  us  away  from  scenes 
which  we  would  fain  seek  again  for  more  than  a  peep  at 
their  charms  of  rock,  wood,  and  water.  A  sad  eyesore  here 
is  the  mines,  whose  shafts  do  worse  then  obtrude  themselves 
among  such  sylvan  beauty,  for  at  more  than  one  of  them  the 
production  of  arsenic  has  discoloured  both  wood  and  water. 

Up  the  Tavy  is  a  trip  not  so  often  made,  as  depending 
more  on  the  tide  ;  but  sometimes  boats  ascend  past  Warleigh 
(p.  124)  to  Lopwell,  passing  the  finely -wooded  park  of 
Maristowe,  which  extends  from  the  river  to  Koborough 
Down.      These  grounds,  however,  are  not  open. 

Other  popular  steamboat  excursions  are  to  Looe  and 
Falmouth,  along  the  Cornish  Coast,  for  which  we  must  refer 
to  our  Cornwall  Guide. 


PLYMOUTH  TO  TAVISTOCK,  Etc. 

Another  of  the  great  advantages  of  Plymouth  in  summer 
is  the  cheap  railway  excursions,  in  connection  with  steamer 
and  coach  routes,  enabling  tourists  to  visit  hence,  within 
the  day,  no  small  part  of  the  beauties  of  Devon  and 
Cornwall.  Some  of  these  goals  we  have  already  dealt  with  ; 
some  are  reserved  for  our  Dartmoor  section  ;  some  must  be 
sought  in  our  Guide  to  Cornwall.  Here  it  will  be  enough 
to  conduct  the  stranger  along  the  western  edge  of  Devon,  as 
far  as  Tavistock,   whence   a  peep    can   be   taken    into  the 


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THE    PLYM    AND    HEAVY    VALLEYS  131 

neighbouring  county,  and  coaclies  run  on  to  Dartmoor  in 
connection  with  the  trains. 

The  G.  W.  R.  and  the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  both  have  lines 
from  Plymouth  to  Launceston ;  but  the  former  may  be 
preferred  as  more  direct.  As  far  as  Tavistock  there  is  not 
so  much  to  choose  between  them,  and  if  the  cheap  return 
tickets  issued  by  certain  trains  were  not  a  consideration,  we 
would  suggest  going  by  the  one  route  and  returning  by  the 
other.  The  line  taken  by  the  G.  W.  R.  is,  on  the  whole, 
the  more  picturesque,  its  Launceston  branch  turning  off  at 
Marsh  Mills  (p.  123)  to  mount  the  course  of  the  Plym  and 
skirt  the  heights  of  Dartmoor,  best  seen  from  the  right  side  of 
the  train.  The  high  road  to  Tavistock  (15  miles)  runs  some 
way  to  the  west,  through  Roborough,  as  far  as  which  an 
omnibus  plies  out  of  Plymouth  thrice  a  day. 

G.W.R. — Beyond  Marsh  Mills  we  at  once  find  ourselves 
looking  down  on  characteristic  Devonshire  beauties,  the 
railway  running  up  one  side  of  the  Vale  of  Bickleigh,  a 
picturesque  richly-wooded  glen,  the  best  part  of  which  is 
private,  but  through  the  owner's  liberality  it  makes  a 
popular  resort  of  Plymouth  people.  Bickleigh  Village  (Inn) 
lies  half  a  mile  west  of  the  station,  its  Church  tower  con- 
fronting that  of  Shaugh  across  the  valley.  For  the  grounds 
of  BicJdeigh  (open  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays) 
turn  back  from  this  station. 

Up  the  river  a  road  leads  to  Shaugh  Bridge  (2  miles),  a 
romantic  spot  hidden  in  foliage,  where  the  Flyra  {alias  the  Cad)  is 
joined  by  the  Meavy.  Above  is  the  Dewerstone,  a  crag  much 
ascended  by  Plymouth  holiday  makers.  If  from  Shaugh  Bridge 
we  turn  up  on  the  right  to  the  conspicuous  pinnacled  tower  of 
Shaugh  Prior  Church,  there  is  struck  a  road  in  one  direction  to 
Cadaford  Bridge  (1^  mile),  in  the  other  to  Plymton  (5  miles). 
For  an  airy  walk  with  wide  prospects,  we  might  also  take  the 
Irybridge  road,  at  the  highest  point  of  which  stands  an  old  cross, 
then  it  descends  to  the  Lcemoor  Clay  works,  where  a  guide-post 
shows  many  ways,  Cornwood  being  now  our  nearest  station  (4 
miles).  From  Skaugh,  again,  are  short  walks  east  to  Shell  Top 
(p.  100),  north  to  Sheepstor  (p.  132)  or  over  Wigford  Down  to  Meavy 
(see  below)  by  the  Merchant's  Cross.  (N.B.  Excursion  tickets  to 
Bickleigh  available  at  Cornwood  or  Plympton.     See  pp.  ]00,  101.) 

Following  for  a  time  the  valley  of  the  Meavy,  our  line 


132  EXCURSIONS   FROM   PLYMOUTH 

crosses  higher  and  more  open  ground  towards  that  of  the 
Walkham,  and  near  Yelverton,  junction  of  the  branch  to 
Princetown  (p.  146)  approaches  the  high  road  running  for 
miles  over  Roborough  Down.  Yelverton  (Hotels  :  Rock,  Leg 
of  Mutton,  Barron's  American,  Willoughhy  Park  Boarding 
House,  etc.)  is  a  favourite  place  both  of  residence  and  resort 
with  Plymouth  people,  and  snug  villas  have  been  built  on 
this  breezy  upland  (600  feet)  among  rich  valleys.  Its  lion 
is  the  Rock  by  the  high  road  on  Roborough  Down,  where 
fancy  traces  the  features  of  a  distinguished  character ;  and 
many  other  fine  points  may  be  visited  on  either  hand. 

The  alpine  railway  up  the  sides  of  Dartmoor  we  leave  to 
be  traced  farther  on  (p.  146),  but  must  mention  its  first 
station,  Dousland  (Manor  Hotel,  Barron's  Boarding  House), 
half  an  hour's  walk  north-east  of  Yelverton,  on  the  very 
edge  of  the  moor,  where  the  Princetown  road  is  crossed  by 
that  from  Tavistock  to  Ivybridge. 

From  either  Yelverton  or  Dousland,  if  one  had  an  hour  or  two  to 
spare  there,  it  is  a  short  walk  to  Meavy,  just  off  the  Ivybridge  Road, 
where  an  oak  that  claims  to  be  the  oldest  in  England  over.shadows 
the  old  cross  beside  the  church  and  inn.  The  walk  up  the  course  of 
the  Meavy  is  to  be  recommended,  as  far  as  Lether  Tor  on  the  north 
side,  one  of  the  sharpest  and  roughest  of  Dartmoor  eminences. 
Close  to  the  village,  a  little  south  of  Meavy  Bridge,  stands  the 
Merchant's  Cross,  notable  as  the  tallest  of  such  old  monuments  about 
Dartmoor.  A  couple  of  miles  off  is  the  village  of  Sheepstor,  in 
whose  churchyard  lies  buried  Rajah  Brooke  of  Sarawak,  who 
ended  his  adventurous  career  at  Burrator  here.  Above  the  village 
may  be  ascended  Sheepstor  (1000  feet). 

The  Plymouth  Water -Works. — But  the  great  sight  of  this 
neighbourhood  is  now  the  artificial  lake  formed  at  Burrator,  to 
store  the  water-supply  originally  brought  by  Sir  Francis  Drake 
from  Dartmoor  by  the  "  Leat,"  which  may  still  be  traced  on  its 
slopes.  In  memory  of  this  achievement  the  Plymouth  Corporation 
hold  here  an  annual  fishing  feast,  when  the  toast  is  drunk,  "May 
the  descendants  of  him  who  brought  us  water  never  want  for  wine ! " 
The  reservoir  contains  650  million  gallons  of  water,  and  makes  a 
striking  feature  of  the  moor,  where  bogs  are  more  common  than 
lakes.  The  massive  dam  is  soon  reached  by  a  short  walk  from 
Dousland. 

Beyond  Yelverton,  on  the  line  to  Tavistock,  the  tors  of 
Dartmoor  appear   to  the    right,  and   in  the  foreground  a 


THE    WALKHAM    VALLEY  133 

couple  of  narrow  valleys,  the  larger  of  which  is  that  of  the 
Walkham  (Wallcomb\  coming  down  from  Merrivale  Bridge 
(p.  138).  At  the  convergence  of  these  valleys,  with  its 
station  high  above  it,  nestles  Horrabridge  (Inn  :  Rohorough 
Arms),  one  of  the  good  starting-points  on  the  edge  of  the 
moor,  a  little  disfigured  here  by  signs  of  mining  speculation. 
From  it  a  road  crosses  the  south-west  corner  of  the  moor  to 
Ivy  bridge  (p.  98),  and  Princetown  may  be  easily  reached 
in  a  little  over  6  miles.  Both  routes  pass  through 
Walkhampton  (Inn),  or  WacMngton,  as  old-fashioned  folk 
pronounce  it,  a  mile  or  two  east,  where  its  towered  Church, 
both  in  itself  and  by  reason  of  its  commanding  site,  is  a 
conspicuous  object  above  the  valley,  up  which  may  be  seen 
Staple  Tor,  Mis  Tor,  and  Vixen  Tor  (p.  139). 

The  Walkham  Valley. — Beautiful  walks  may  be  taken  up  the 
romantic  glen,  where  the  stream  is  crossed  by  Huckworthy  Bridge, 
Ward  Bridge,  and  Merrivale  Bridge,  from  any  of  which  it  is  a  few 
miles  to  Tavistock.  It  is  difficult  to  calculate  distances  by  the 
winding  bar.\s  ;  but  a  good  walker  should  reach  Merrivale  Bridge 
(p.  138)  in  three  or  four  hours.  At  Ward  Bridge  one  may  turn 
towards  Tavistock  by  Sampford  Spinney,  which  has  a  singularly 
placed  Church  with  a  fine  tower,  below  the  rock  basins  of  Pew  Tor 
to  the  north.  Or,  from  Ward  Bridge,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river,  there  is  a  grand  moorland  walk  below  a  line  of  tors  to 
Walkhampton,  and  thus  back  to  Horrabridge. 

Down  the  Walkham  Valley,  some  half  dozen  miles  from 
Horrabridge,  is  reached  its  confluence  with  the  Tavy,  a  beautiful 
scene  somewhat  marred  by  the  rubbish  heaps  of  the  Virtuous 
Lady  copper  mine,  said  to  take  its  name  from  Queen  Elizabeth. 
A  tea  garden  at  the  crag  called  Raven  Tor  makes  a  prospect  point, 
below  which  the  Virtuous  Lady  cave  may  be  visited.  Hence  one 
might  follow  the  Tavy  up  to  Tavistock,  or  down  towards  Buckland. 

[Two  miles  west  of  Horrabridge  station,  across 
Roborough  Down,  and  about  as  far  from  Yelverton,  lies 
Buckland  Monachorum  (Inn),  a  pleasant  village,  with  a 
handsome  Perpendicular  Church,  which  contains  some  fine 
carving,  a  painted  ceiling,  fragments  of  old  painted  glass, 
and  Bacon's  monument  to  Lord  Heathfield,  1790,  the  hero 
of  the  siege  of  Gibraltar.  The  churchyard  has  a  quaint 
epitaph  to  a  smith,  conceived   in  proper   trade  terms,  a 


134  EXCURSIONS    FROM    PLYMOUTH 

kind  of  grim  humour  which  seems  to  have  been  popular 
in  Devonshire. 

About  a  mile  south-west  stands  BucMarvd  Alley,  adapted  as 
a  residence  by  Richard  Granville,  and  disjiosed  of  by  him  to 
Sir  Francis  Drake,  who  bequeathed  it  to  his  nephew  Francis. 
An  original  portrait  of  the  great  sea-king,  inscribed,  "  ^Etat. 
suae  53,  anno  1594,"  and  his  sword,  drum,  and  Bible,  are  among 
the  memorials  here  preserved.  The  old  Alley  was  founded  in 
1278  by  Amicia  de  Clare,  Countess  of  Devon,  on  a  site  such  as 
would  recommend  it  to  the  Cistercian  monks, — broad  grassy 
meadows,  sloping  under  the  shade  of  unbrageous  groves  to  the 
banks  of  a  pleasant  river.  The  principal  remains  are  in- 
corporated in  the  present  dwelling,  which  includes  the  old 
square  central  tower ;  there  are  also  some  arches,  and  hoary 
walls  of  the  ancient  tithe  barn.  The  Abbey  orchard  is  reputed 
to  be  one  of  the  earliest  planted  in  Devonshire. 

Beyond  Buckland  Abbey  we  can  descend  to  the  course  of  the 
Tavy,  a  pretty  river  still,  though  here  dirtied  by  the  scourings 
of  a  mine,  and  crossing  at  Benham  Bridge  make  for  the  L.  & 
S.-W.  R.  station  at  Beer  Ferris  (see  below),  or,  keeping  to  the 
left  side  of  the  Tavy,  by  Maristowe  (p.  130)  gain  the  Plymouth 
high  road  at  Bolorough.] 

Between  Horrabridge  and  Tavistock  the  G.  W.  R.  crosses, 
by  a  large  wooden  viaduct,  the  Walhliam,  a  little  short  of 
the  confluence  of  that  stream  with  the  Tavy.  Then,  after 
enjoying  a  beautiful  prospect  down  the  valley  of  the  latter 
river  on  the  left  hand,  we  come  to  Tavistock. 

The  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  from  Devonport  crosses  the  Tavy 
and  takes  high  ground  above  its  wooded  valley,  where  in  a 
few  miles  it  changes  from  muddy  flats  to  a  mountain  stream. 
To  the  left  are  fine  views  over  the  estuaries.  At  Beer  Alston 
we  look  across  to  Calstock  and  the  wooded  windings  of  the 
Tamar  (p.  129).  This  line  reaches  Tavistock  high  above  the 
town  and  the  right  bank  of  the  Tavy,  whereas  the  G.  W.  R. 
station  is  lower  down  on  the  other  side  ;  both  not  far  from 
the  chief  objects  of  interest. 

TAVISTOCK 

Hotels  :  Bedford,  Queen's  Head,  Newmarket,  Shepperd's  Temperance. 

This    is   one    of  the    pleasantest    and    most    prosperous- 
looking  of  Devonshire  towns,  lying  in  the  fertile  valley  of 


TAVISTOCK  135 

the  Tavy,  flanked  on  the  east  by  the  slopes  of  Dartmoor, 
and  on  the  west  by  wooded  eminences  rolling  across  to  the 
course  of  the  Tamar.  The  only  thing  to  be  said  against  it 
is  its  having  the  name  of  a  very  wet  place  ;  but  though 
built  in  a  hollow,  it  stands  actually  high,  and  the  people  do 
not  seem  to  suffer  from  a  relaxing  climate.  The  town,  with 
its  dependencies,  has  a  population  of  over  13,000. 

The  chief  lion  of  the  place  is  the  Abhey  founded  in  961 
by  Orgar,  Earl  of  Devonshire,  the  father  of  that  Elfrida 
who  bartered  her  husband's  life  for  a  king's  love  ;  endowed 
and  completed  (981)  by  his  gigantic  son  Ordulf,  and 
dedicated  as  a  Benedictine  house  to  Sts.  Mary  and  Kumon. 
In  997  it  was  plundered  and  burnt  to  the  ground  by  the 
Danes,  who  carried  fire  and  sword  up  the  Tamar  and  as  far 
as  Lydford,  but  was  rebuilt  with  greater  magnificence,  and 
became  a  favourite  object  of  devout  liberality.  Its  site  and 
buildings,  with  the  manors  and  lordships,  were  bestowed  in 
1539  upon  John  Lord  Kussell,  thus  founding  the  fortunes  of 
the  ducal  house  of  Bedford.  Opposite  the  Abbey  the  Muni- 
cipal Buildings  have  been  erected  in  a  style  to  harmonise 
with  what  is  left  of  it.  In  front  is  a  statue  of  one  of  the 
late  Dukes. 


The  remains  are  to  be  found  near  the  bridge  between  the  two 
railway  stations,  beside  an  open  space  edging  the  most  important 
part  of  the  town,  where  they  do  not  force  themselves  on  our 
attention,  nor  have  they  been  treated  with  too  much  reverence. 
Upon  the  site,  and  with  the  materials  of  the  old  Chapter-House,  a 
residence  was  built  in  1736  ;  and  the  site  of  this  house  is  now 
occupied,  in  its  turn,  by  the  buildings  of  the  Bedford  Hotel,  erected 
in  the  Elizabethan  style  about  1830.  In  their  rear  stands  a 
picturesque  pinnacled  Porch  turned  into  a  larder.  The  Gate-house 
is  in  admirable  preservation,  and  the  upper  room,  distinguished 
by  a  muUioned  window,  is  used  as  the  Public  Library.  The  main 
road  passes  through  the  archway.  Oddest  of  the  transformations  is 
that  of  the  old  Refectory  into  a  Unitarian  Chapel.  The  grand 
Abbey  Church,  once  second  only  to  Exeter  Cathedral  in  the  diocese, 
has  been  entirely  destroyed :  in  the  Commonwealth  days  a  high 
road  was  run  through  it,  and  a  market  held  in  its  ruined  aisles. 
Within  the  pleasant  grounds  of  the  vicarage  stand  the  ancient 
Still-house,  and  Betsy  GHmbaVs  Tower,  so  called  from  a  woman 
said    to    have    been    murdered    there ;    also    some    stones    with 


136  EXCURSIONS  FROM  PLYMOUTH 

remarkable  inscriptions.  A  fragment  of  the  Cloister  Arcade  may 
be  seen  in  the  churchyard. 

The  Parish  Church,  on  the  other  side  of  the  road  before  the 
hotel,  is  a  stately  Perpendicular  pile,  with  a  tower,  nave,  and 
triple  chancel,  thoroughly  restored  by  the  Duke  of  Bedford  in 
1846.  Its  memorials  are  of  high  interest.  Some  bones  of 
extraordinary  size  discovered  in  a  stone  coffin  among  the  debris  of 
the  abbey  are  reputed  to  be  those  of  the  giant  Earl  Ordulf.  Sir 
John  Glanville,  who  was  born  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  his  lady 
are  commemorated  by  a  fine  monument  and  well-sculptured  effigies, 
temp.  Elizabeth.  The  Bouchiers,  Earls  of  Bath,  and  other 
important  personages,  are  similarly  honoured.  The  visitor  will 
observe  the  richly-coloured  glass  of  the  eastern  window,  and  the 
exquisite  carving  of  the  altar-table,  also  the  memorial  to  Sir  John 
Fitz  of  Fitzfordi  and  his  lady.  The  Fitzford  family  are  celebrated 
in  one  of  the  once  popular  novels  of  Mrs.  Bray,  whose  second 
husband  was  Vicar  of  Tavistock. 

These  sights  will  soon  be  seen,  and  there  may  be  time  between 
trains  for  a  stroll  down  the  pretty  river  walk  skirting  the  old 
Abbey  grounds,  which  might  be  extended,  with  the  new  church 
for  a  landmark,  to  Fitzford  on  the  Plymouth  road,  where  a  barn 
and  gateway  of  Henry  VII.'s  date  are  all  the  remains  of  this 
ancient  seat,  blighted  by  legendary  crimes,  as  the  country  folk 
tell,  who  keep  grim  memories  of  Lady  Howard,  daughter  of  Sir 
John  Fitz,  unjustly  represented  as  a  sort  of  female  Bluebeard  to 
all  her  four  husbands.  Here  has  been  erected  Boehm's  statue 
of  Sir  Francis  Drake,  a  replica  of  which  ornaments  the  Hoe  at 
Plymouth,  but  the  latter  lacks  the  bas-reliefs  representing  incidents 
in  Drake's  life  which  appear  on  the  original.  Near  this  was 
Crowndale,  Drake's  birthplace,  a  house  now  destroyed.  A  hand- 
some modern  church  occupies  a  prominent  position  at  this  farther 
end  of  the  town. 


Many  excursionists  get  only  a  peep  at  Tavistock,  coming 
here  to  take  the  round  driving  trips,  organised  in  connection 
with  the  trains,  which  give  Plymouth  people  a  good  five- 
shillingsworth  over  wide  stretches  of  Dartmoor  and  its 
neighbourhood.  Particulars  of  these  trips  can  readily  be 
learned  from  the  local  tourist  programmes  of  the  railway 
companies.  Another  attraction  to  Plymouth  pleasure-seekers 
is  the  golf  course  on  Whitchurch  Down,  about  a  mile  off, 
where  stands  the  Pixie  Gross,  or  Monks'  Gross,  one  of  those 
marking  the  Abbots'  Way  across  the  moor  (p.  148). 

Some  visitors,  however,  if  they  be  lucky  enough  to  hit 
on  dry  weather,  will  wish  to  make  a  longer  stay  in  this 


ABOUT   TAVISTOCK  137 

attractive  place  ;   and  for  their  benefit  we   suggest  a  few 
excursions  in  various  directions. 

The  stranger  might  well  wish  to  revisit  from  this  side  the  rock 
scenery  of  the  Tamar,  which  he  perhaps  saw  so  temptingly  on  the 
steamboat  trip  to  Weir  Head  (p.  130).  By  the  Callington  high- 
road the  river  is  not  quite  4  miles  away.  A  pleasanter  round 
would  be  to  turn  off  from  the  river  walk  to  the  canal,  on  whose 
deserted  banks  one  keeps  as  far  as  MorwellhaTn  Quay.  Passing 
through  a  mining  district  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Morwell 
tunnel,  1%  mile  in  length,  he  may  ascend  the  hill,  and  strike 
through  a  pleasant  copse  to  the  Morwell  Rocks.  Beneath  flows 
the  Tamar,  and  the  surrounding  prospect  includes  the  mining 
district  of  Gunnislake,  the  slopes  of  Hingdon  Down,  and  the  village 
of  Qalstock  (p.  129).  Higher  up  the  river  is  the  renowned  Weir 
Head,  and  on  the  left,  above  a  screen  of  foliage,  rises  Harewood 
House,  scene  of  Mason's  tragedy  "Elfrida."  From  the  rocks 
the  tourist  can  find  a  winding  path  to  New  Bridge,  near  which 
the  Devon  Great  Consols  copper  and  arsenic  mine  may  be  seen. 
From  New  Bridge  the  highroad  leads  straight  into  Tavistock. 

A  walk  do'vn  the  Tavy  Valley  will  bring  us  towards  BucJcland 
Abbey  and  scenes  already  touched  on.  At  least  one  might  go  as  far 
as  its  confluence  with  the  Walkham  near  The  Virtuous  Lady 
mine  (p.  133).  The  way  is  by  a  road  turning  off"  almost  opposite 
the  cemetery  above  Tavistock,  up  to  Rixhill,  and  the  avenue  near 
Walreddon,  a  quaint  building  of  Edward  VI. 's  reign,  embosomed 
in  woods,  then  by  a  rough  track  over  "West  Down.  The  return 
might  be  made  by  turning  up  the  Walkham  Valley  to  take  the 
road  by  Grenofen  Bridge,  a  round  of  some  7  miles  ;  or  it  would 
not  be  so  far  to  make  over  Roborough  Down  for  Horrdbridge 
Station  (p.  133). 

Up  the  Tavy,  also,  a  fine  walk  may  be  taken  for  an  hour  or  two, 
and  continued  the  whole  day,  if  one  is  tempted  on.  In  an  hour 
we  can  reach  Peter  Tavy,  behind  which  a  fine  Combe  will  lead  us 
on  to  the  moor  ;  then  a  little  farther  lies  Mary  Tavy  on  the  other 
side,  where  are  a  famous  lichened  rock  and  a  rude  rustic  bridge, 
the  Clam,  to  be  admired.  Beyond  are  Cudlipp  Town  and  Hill 
Bridge,  and  other  scenes  of  Mr.  Baring-Gould's  novel,  "Urith." 
Up  a  romantic  defile  known  as  the  Tavy  Cleave,  where  the  river 
tears  down  its  bed  of  granite  boulders,  one  might  make  one's  way 
to  its  head  near  Fur  Tor  (2000  feet),  rising  among  morasses  almost 
impassable  in  wet  seasons.  From  Fur  Tor  the  enterprising  tourist, 
if  favoured  by  the  weather,  might  follow  the  tors  in  a  line  with 
the  West  Dart  to  Two  Bridges,  on  the  Moreton  Hampstead  road, 
8  miles  from  Tavistock.     A  less  heroic  achievement,  making  a 


138  EXCURSIONS    FROM    PLYMOUTH 

round  of  some  10  miles,  would  be  to  cross  the  river  and  the  railway 
to  Mary  Tavy,  for  Brent  Tor,  and  return  to  Tavistock  by  the 
road  over  high  ground  on  the  other  side. 

Brent  Tor  (1000  feet)  is  4  miles  from  Tavistock  by  the  high- 
road just  mentioned.  This  conical  peak  stands  sharply  out, 
conspicuous  upon  all  sides  by  the  little  church  on  its  summit, 
serving  as  a  sea-mark  from  Plymouth  Sound  20  miles  off,  and  its 
position  as  a  solitary  outlying  point  of  Dartmoor  gives  it  a  mag- 
nificent view.  It  is  often  visited  by  taking  train  to  the  L.  &  S.-W. 
Brent  Tor  station,  a  mile  or  so  beyond.  Just  before  reaching  this 
station  the  church  comes  into  view  ;  then  any  one  used  to  finding 
his  way  across  country  will  have  little  difficulty  in  reaching  the 
top  once  he  has  got  over  the  G.  W.  R.  line.  The  simplest,  and 
perhaps  in  the  end  the  shortest,  way  is  to  go  up  from  the  railway 
bridge  through  the  village  of  North  Brent,  holding  on  upwards  to 
the  high  road  between  Tavistock  and  Lydford,  which  passes  under 
the  brow  of  the  Tor.  An  easy  half-hour  brings  us  thus  to  a  small 
inn,  where  the  key  of  the  church  can  be  had.  A  little  way  beyond, 
a  gate  and  stile  will  be  seen  giving  access  to  the  turfy  steeps,  over 
which  stands  the  little  Early  English  Church  that  has  held  its 
own  so  sturdily  against  many  a  storm.  The  view  from  the  tiny 
churchyard,  unless  spoiled  by  wet  or  haze,  takes  in  the  Tors  of 
Dartmoor,  and  on  the  other  side  the  Cornish  heights  of  Brown 
Willy  and  Row  Tor.  Brent  Tor  is  apparently  an  extinct  volcano, 
deriving  its  name  from  its  scarred  head,  or  else  from  the  beacon 
fires  that  may  well  have  flamed  on  this  far-saen  crest.  The  4 
miles  of  highroad  hence  to  Tavistock  make  pleasant  walking, 
mostly  downhill. 

North-eastwards  the  road  to  Launceston  by  Lamerton,  turning 
off  at  3Iilton  Abbot,  takes  us  to  the  beautiful  grounds  of  Endsleigh 
Cottage  (6  m.)  on  the  Tamar  and  the  border  of  the  county.  This 
is  a  "  cottage  of  nobility,"  one  of  the  seats  of  the  Duke  of  Bedford  ; 
and  permission  to  visit  the  park,  with  its  Swiss  Cottage,  its  Terrace 
view,  and  its  woodland  paths  by  the  winding  Tamar,  must  be 
obtained  through  his  Estate  Office  at  Tavistock,  a  limited  number 
of  tickets  being  granted  on  each  day.  Above,  near  Dunterton, 
there  is  a  waterfall ;  and  from  Greystone  Bridge,  higher  up,  the 
unwearied  pedestrian  may  make  for  Launceston  by  the  Cornish 
Carthamartha  Rocks,  —  wildly  picturesque  masses  of  limestone. 
From  Endsleigh  to  Launceston  is  9  miles  by  road,  but  much 
farther  if  one  keep  near  the  bold  bends  of  the  river. 

The  visitor  might  well  wish  to  make  a  short  excursion  into 
Dartmoor,  rising  so  close  at  hand.  This  he  can  do  by  taking 
the  Moreton  Hampstead  highroad  across  the  moor,  which  in  8 
miles  will  carry  him  to  Princetown  (p.  146)  by  Merrivale  Bridge 
(5  miles)  on  the  Walkham  river,  much  visited  for  the  sake  of  its 


Photochrom  Co.,  Lta 


BREN   TOR,    DARTMOOR. 


A    TRIP    ON    DARTMOOR  139 

antiquities.  This  road  at  once  begins  to  ascend,  leaving  on  the 
left  Mount  Tavy,  a  modern  mansion  on  the  river-bank,  in  the 
shadow  of  Rowden  Wood.  As  we  climb  the  hill  there  is  a  fine 
retrospect  over  the  valley  in  which  Tavistock  lies,  and  across  the 
Tamar  to  the  Cornish  heights,  where  a  lofty  engine-stalk  sur- 
mounting Kit  Hill  makes  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  landmarks 
in  the  south-west  of  England.  North  of  Tavistock  the  isolated 
peak  of  Brent  Tor  is  almost  equally  conspicuous.  In  less  than 
3  miles  the  moorland  part  of  the  road  commences,  and  we  come 
to  close  quarters  with  the  first  of  the  numerous  tors  which  are 
the  chief  features  of  the  rest  of  our  journey.  On  the  left,  as  we 
descend  to  Merrivale  Bridge  (Inn),  are  the  Staple  Tors,  beyond 
which  come  the  Great  and  Little  Mis  Tors  ;  and  on  the  right  stands 
Vixen  Tor,  resembling  the  Egyptian  Sphinx. 

[Great  Mis  Tor  (1760  feet),  dominating  the  group  of  heights 
here,  nearly  two  miles  away  to  the  north,  may  be  ascended  without 
much  difficulty  when  not  wrapped  in  cloud.  On  the  top  is  a 
natural  rock-basin,  called  Mis  Tor  Pan,  about  10  feet  in  circum- 
ference, which  has  been  supposed  to  be  the  work  of  the  Druids, 
to  whom  everything  prehistoric  is  readily  attributed,  when  we 
know  so  little  about  them.  From  another  agent  to  whom  super- 
stitious country  folk  are  apt  to  credit  anything  mysterious,  it  gets 
the  nickname  of  the  DeviVs  Frying  Pan ;  but  it  is  apparently 
natural.  At  the  top  of  Vixen  Tor  are  three  similar  basins,  and 
they  occur  fr'^quently  on  other  parts  of  the  moor.] 

A  little  way  beyond  Merrivale  Bridge,  near  the  right  hand  of 
the  road  (turn  off  at  a  C.  T.  C.  danger  board),  will  be  found  the 
remarkable  antiquities  which  have  given  rise  to  so  much  specula- 
tion among  learned  and  unlearned.  The  chief  feature  of  them  is 
two  avenues  of  uncut  stones,  irregular  in  height  and  shape,  placed 
about  2  feet  apart,  for  a  distance  on  one  side  of  780  feet,  and  on 
the  other  of  nearly  600  feet.  There  are  also  stone  circles,  traces  of 
hut  dwellings,  the  ruins  of  two  cairns  and  a  cromlech,  and  a  little 
to  the  south  the  tallest  menhir  (13  feet)  on  Dartmoor.  These 
remains,  which  have  suffered  much  from  the  carelessness  of  the 
moor  people  in  the  past,  are  also  ascribed  to  the  Druids  without 
any  particular  reason.  Some  antiquarians  look  on  them  as  relics 
of  ancient  serpent  worship,  or  as  monuments  in  memory  of  a  great 
battle,  the  same  explanations  as  are  applied  to  the  much  larger 
groups  of  stones  dotting  the  country  for  miles  near  Karnac  in 
Brittany. 

The  turning  (right)  for  Princetown  comes  l^mile  beyond  Merrivale 
Bridge,  the  main  road  going  on  by  Two  Bridges  (p.  149)  to  Moreton 
Hanipstead  (p.  160),  22  miles  from  Tavistock. 

There  is  a  footway  from  Tavistock  station  (G.  W.  R.)  across 
Whitchurch  Down,  that,  if  one  did  not  lose  it,  would  lead  into 
the  road  near  Merrivale  Bridge  ;  and  we  have  already  recommended 
the  rough  walk  by  the  course  of  the  Walkham  to  its  junction 


140  EXCUESIONS    FROM   PLYMOUTH 

with  the  Tavy,  or  to  the  road  through  Horrabridge  to  Tavistock, 
which  would  make  a  round  of  a  long  half-day's  walking  (p.  133). 

Lastly,  the  road  by  St.  Mary  Tavy  (3  m.)  might  be  continued 
to  Lydford  (7  m.)  and  Bridestowe  (10  m.),  or  all  the  way  to 
Okehampton  (16  m.)  along  the  slopes  of  Dartmoor,  much  marked 
at  first  by  mine  shafts,  but  giving  tine  views  towards  the  tors  and 
over  the  course  we  are  about  to  follow  by  rail. 

From  Tavistock  to  Lydford,  the  rival  railways  run 
closely,  if  not  lovingly,  together,  presently  crossing  each 
other,  so  as  to  take  changed  sides  in  their  course  up  the 
moorlands.  The  handsome  building  seen  below  the  L.  & 
S.-W.  line  j  ust  out  of  Tavistock  is  the  Kelly  College,  primarily 
intended  for  the  sons  of  naval  officers.  The  G.  W.  R.  has  a 
station  at  Mary  Tavy;  the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  at  Brent  Tor. 
Their  Lydford  stations  are  at  the  beginning  of  the  long 
village  which  struggles  over  a  couple  of  miles  (p.  170). 
Lydford  is  one  of  the  Plymouth  excursion  points  ;  but  for 
its  attractions  we  must  refer  the  reader  to  our  survey 
of  Dartmoor.  From  these  outskirts  we  have  been  drawn 
80  far  on  to  the  moor  itself,  that  it  is  time  to  take  a  general 
view  of  this  remarkable  region  after  pointing  out  one  route 
in  the  other  direction. 

Lydford  to  Launceston  12^  m. — Through  beautiful 
but  not  much  explored  country,  the  G.  W.  R.  runs  direct  to 
Launceston,  passing  at  first  high  above  the  Lyd,  with  fine 
views  of  the  river  and  its  richly-wooded  valley,  which  it 
crosses  several  times.  It  has  stations  at  Goryton  and  Lifton, 
and  at  the  latter  enters  Cornwall,  where  we  hand  over  the 
tourist  to  our  guide  of  that  ilk. 

The  road  is  a  little  longer,  bending  to  the  north  of  the 
river  by  Coryton  ;  and  we  fancy  that  cyclists  who  think 
chiefly  of  pace  prefer  to  begin  with  a  slight  detour,  striking 
northwards  into  the  Exeter-Launceston  high-road  at  GomeboWy 
whence  it  is  10  miles  to  Launceston.  From  Plymouth  the 
direct  road  to  Launceston  (24  miles)  goes  on  the  Cornish 
side  of  the  Tamar,  by  Saltash  and  Gallington. 


DARTMOOR 

This  "monstrous  lump  of  granite,  covered  with  a  peaty 
soil,"  which  measures  roughly  20  miles  across  each  way, 
or  a  little  more  at  its  widest,  is  the  highest  tableland  in  the 
south  of  England,  more  than  one  of  its  eminences  rising  to 
the  height  of  2000  feet.  It  has  thus  a  climate  very  much 
more  bracing  than  that  of  the  Devonshire  coast  or  lowlands, 
a  welcome  restorative  to  fagged  holiday-makers  who  seek 
the  medicine  of  keen,  pure  air.  Its  climate  cannot,  indeed, 
be  called  genial :  rain  and  mist  abound,  sometimes  both  at 
once,  and  the  winds  up  here  make  a  sharp  change  from  the 
languors  of  Torquay  or  Plymouth.  Perhaps  youth  and 
health  are  needed  fully  to  enjoy  a  stay  on  Dartmoor  ;  and 
it  takes  a  clear  Wordsworthian  eye  to  admire  at  first  sight 
its  austere  beauties,  by  which  some  come  to  be  strongly 
fascinated,  while  others  disparage  them  as  bare  and  feature- 
less in  comparison  with  Scotch  or  "Welsh  mountain  scenery. 
Not  a  few  strangers  who  get  only  a  bleak  glimpse  of 
Dartmoor  on  a  wet  day,  will  be  inclined  to  agree  with  old 
Camden  in  his  belittling  account  of  it  as  "  certain  dirty  and 
mountainous  places." 

Dartmoor,  though  without  woodlands  or  deer,  is  legally  a 
"  forest,"  and  for  the  most  part  a  domain  of  the  Duchy  of 
Cornwall,  its  borders  being  common  land  of  the  neighbour- 
ing parishes.  The  modern  sense  oi  forest  will  convey  no  true 
idea  of  this  naked,  undulating  moorland,  dappled  with 
heather  and  patches  of  bog,  seamed  with  ridges  and  ravines, 
no  trees  to  be  seen  for  miles,  no  building  unless,  perhaps, 
the  shaft  of  some  abandoned  mine,  nor  any  other  striking 
landmark    but    heaps   of    granite    boulders    crowning    the 


142  DARTMOOR 

frequent  tors  into  which  it  swells,  with  telegraph  posts  or 
Ordnance  Survey  poles  standing  out  against  the  horizon, 
here  and  there,  as  the  sole  signs  of  this  being  a  civilised 
country.  You  might  go  half  a  day  here  without  meeting  a 
human  being,  only  herds  of  long-tailed  ponies  running  wild 
as  the  wind  that  sweeps  over  their  poor  pasture,  and  sheep 
scurrying  away  like  deer  as  you  pass,  and  red  cattle  looking 
up  to  stare  at  you  stupidly,  as  if  they  did  not  know  what  to 
make  of  a  stranger  in  those  out-of-the-way  parts.  Even  in 
fine  weather  unfortunate  tourists  sometimes  lose  themselves 
if  they  have  been  tempted  to  leave  the  rare  beaten  tracks  ; 
and  mist  and  snow  make  the  passage  of  the  lonely  moor  a 
dangerous  enterprise  when  the  only  guide  may  be  the  course 
of  streams  that  ooze  from  every  black  fissure  in  the  peat, 
trickling  down  the  hollows  till  they  have  gathered  strength  to 
cut  their  way  deep  through  rocky  chines  and  gorges.  As 
we  approach  its  edges  we  come  upon  scattered  farms  and 
turf  roads  winding  down  to  where  this  wilderness  is  found 
fringed  with  the  most  lovely  bits  of  broken  ground,  richly- 
wooded  glens,  bushy  slopes,  and  fern-clad  water-courses,  in 
which  the  moor  loses  itself  among  the  fields  and  villages  of 
lowland  Devon.  And  if  one  be  not  much  taken  by  its  upper 
stretches,  which  do  not  at  once  commend  themselves  fully  to 
every  eye,  no  lover  of  the  picturesque  can  refuse  his  hearty 
admiration  to  the  charms  found  on  the  borderland  of 
Dartmoor,  especially  along  the  rapid  rivers  rising  in  its 
peaty  bosom. 

Yet  even  among  the  wilds,  that  at  first  sight  seem  most 
desolate,  there  are  beauties  to  be  searched  for,  as  well  as  those 
that,  displayed  about  the  rough  skirts  of  the  moor,  force 
themselves  more  upon  our  attention.  Striking  features  are 
Hay  Tor,  with  its  huge  mass  of  tumbled  rocks  (p.  157)  ;  the 
green  valley  of  Widdecomhe,  with  its  great  Church  (p.  158)  ; 
Wistman's  Wood,  a  small  group  of  stunted,  weather-beaten 
oaks  curiously  interspersed  among  granite  boulders  (p.  149)  ; 
Dartmeet,  where  the  East  and  West  Dart  join  amid  most 
lovely  surroundings  (p.  153);  the  Cyclopean  bridge  at  Post 
Bridge  (p.  151) ;  the  beautiful  course  of  the  Gowsic  River, 
half  lost  among  rocks  and  fern  (p.  150) ;  Great  Mis  Tor,  and 


DARTMOOR  143 

the  antiquities  below  it,  which  we  have  already  visited  from 
Tavistock  (p.  139)  ;  Tavy  Cleave,  in  the  same  neighbourhood 
(p.  137);  but,  indeed,  in  our  limits  it  is  impossible  to  enumerate 
all  the  natural  attractions  of  this  region,  or  to  dwell  upon 
the  hut  circles,  stone  monuments,  cairns,  and  old  crosses  by 
which  it  is  so  much  studded. 

As  for  the  Tors,  tliere  are  between  one  and  two  hundred 
of  them,  for  the  most  part  looking  rather  like  each  other, 
though  to  an  observant  eye  the  shifting  shadows  of  clouds 
cast  a  constant  diversity  of  smiles  and  frowns  over  their 
bare  faces.  A  feature  they  have  in  common,  is  being  topped 
by  masses  of  rock,  so  broken  and  shaped  by  the  action  of 
the  elements,  that  it  is  often  difficult  to  reject  the  explanation 
of  human  agency  ;  while  the  slopes,  too,  are  in  many  parts 
strewn  with  huge  blocks  or  slabs,  locally  known  as  "  clatters." 
Yes  Tor,  near  Okehampton,  is  usually  called  the  highest 
point  (2030  feet)  of  Dartmoor,  but  the  impartial  records  of 
the  Ordnance  Survey  give  this  honour  to  High  JVillhays, 
rising  above  it,  to  the  south,  by  10  feet  or  so  (p.  170). 

The  most  renowned  is  perhaps  Grochern  Tor  (p.  149),  a 
little  north  of  Two  Bridges  and  of  the  main  road  from 
Tavistock  to  Moreton  Hampstead,  which  formed  the  mid- 
stage  of  the  highway  from  Plymouth  to  Exeter.  Here, 
from  time  immemorial,  up  to  the  middle  of  the  last  century, 
were  held  the  Stannary  Parliaments,  county  councils  of 
the  period,  an  assembly  of  delegates  from  the  Stannary 
towns,  Tavistock,  Plympton,  Ashburton,  and  Chagford, 
whose  office  it  was  to  settle  all  questions  connected  with 
the  mining  industries  of  the  neighbourhood,  especially 
that  of  tin,  as  the  name  Stannary  denotes.  The  Dartmoor 
mines,  we  notice  from  frequent  tokens,  were  formerly  more 
prosperous,  but  at  present  only  one  is  working. 

North  of  Crockern  Tor  is  Gut  Hill,  beyond  which 
Granmere  Pool  (p.  150)  may  be  taken  as  the  central  point 
of  the  moor,  not  indeed  in  respect  of  distances,  but  since 
in  the  morasses  round  it  most  of  the  Dartmoor  streams 
have  their  source ;  or,  it  might  be  said,  the  chief  rivers  of 
Devon,  with  exception  of  the  Exe,  the  Otter,  the  Axe,  and 
the  Torridge.     Northwards,  the  mountain-torrent  of  the  Taw 


144  DARTMOOE 

forms  the  brimming  river  which  enters  the  sea  at  Barnstaple. 
The  East  and  West  Okement  are  the  chief  feeders  of  the 
Torridge.  Southwards,  the  streams  pursue  independent 
courses  throughout.  The  largest,  and  perhaps  the  most 
beautiful,  are  the  Dart,  the  Teign,  and  the  Tavy ;  but  the 
Erme,  the  Avon,  the  Yealm,  and  the  Plym  have  all  their 
special  charms  and  faithful  admirers.  A  feature  of  the 
moor  is  the  "  Cyclopean "  bridges,  which  have  spanned  the 
upper  waters  with  blocks  of  granite  so  huge  as  to  suggest 
superhuman  agency.  Unless  when  in  spate,  the  streams 
can  usually  be  forded  or  crossed  by  stones.  The  bogs 
about  their  course  make  a  more  serious  obstacle,  so  that 
the  best  way  to  follow  them  is  often  on  their  enclosing  ridges. 

As  anglers  make  such  a  large  part  of  Dartmoor's  visitors,  a 
few  remarks  for  their  benefit  may  not  be  out  of  place. 

The  lower  part  of  the  chief  streams  are,  as  a  rule,  in  the  hands 
of  associations,  tickets  to  be  had  from  their  officials,  or  at  the 
hotels.  The  upper  waters,  on  the  moor  itself,  lie  mostly  within 
the  domain  of  the  Duchy  of  Cornwall,  where  permission  should 
be  obtained  from  the  bailiff  at  Tor  Royal,  as  also  for  shooting. 
The  Prison  Estate  about  Princetown,  however,  is  preserved  for 
the  officials  ;  and  it  is  ill  trespassing  on  bounds  vigilantly  guarded 
by  armed  men.  Streams  on  the  moor,  and  not  within  the  Duchy 
limits,  we  understand  to  be  free. 

The  season  begins  1st  March.  In  its  early  part,  the  best  time 
may  be  the  warmer  mid-day  hours  ;  but  when  genial  weather  has 
fairly  set  in,  the  mornings  and  evenings  will  prove  more  fortunate. 
Fishing  up-stream,  if  the  wind  allow,  is  to  be  recommended  in 
clear  ripples  ;  but  in  brown  peaty  streams  this  does  not  so  much 
matter.  At  the  head  of  pools,  with  an  up-stream  wind,  or  at 
the  "stickle"  running  out  of  them,  is  apt  to  be  a  likely  place. 
Fishermen  will  look  out  for  the  bogs,  the  most  dangerous  of  which, 
marked  usually  by  their  light  green  colour,  are  often  high  up  on 
the  course  of  impeded  streams.  In  stretches  of  bog  the  edge  of 
the  stream  is  often  the  driest  place.  Another  impediment  some- 
times will  be  the  granite  rocks  coming  steeply  down  to  the  edge, 
as  above  Tavy  Cleave,  so  that  one  can  hardly  find  footing.  Short 
rods  are  advisable.     Waders  come  in  useful  on  the  larger  streams. 

No  great  variety  of  flies  is  needed,  small  and  dark  being  the 
general  rule.  From  beginning  to  end  of  the  season  one  may  do 
well  enough  with  blue  uprights,  March  brown,  alder  and  red 
palmer.  There  are  those  who  make  havoc  with  artificial  minnows  ; 
and  beetles  or  grasshoppers  as  well  as  worms  prove  a  deadly  bait 
in  skilful  hands  that  condescend  to  such.     The  fish  run  small ;  a 


DARTMOOR  145 

quarter  pound  is  a  big  trout  on  the  upper  waters,  and  half-a-dozen 
to  the  pound  would  be  a  fair  average.     In  the  lower  rivers  bigger 
fish  can,  of  course,  be  taken.     A  peculiar  black-tailed  trout  is  said 
to  be  found  in  a  pool  under  the  waterfalls  in  Lydford  Gorge. 
Otter-hunting  affords  excellent  sport  in  some  of  these  waters. 

A  drawback  to  Dartmoor,  as  a  holiday  resort,  is  the  want 
of  accommodations  and  shops,  which  must  be  sought  rather  in 
the  towns  lying  round  its  edge.  Princetown  alone  stands  on 
the  moor  itself,  at  the  eastern  end.  Moreton  Hampstead, 
lying  below  its  western  edge,  makes  a  base  of  approach  in 
that  direction.  The  road  between  them  forms  one  principal 
highway,  which  at  Two  Bridges  branches  off  east  and  west, 
this  being  the  intersection  point  of  a  St.  Andrew's  cross 
of  roads,  from  Yelverton  through  Princetown  to  Moreton 
Hampstead,  and  from  Tavistock  to  Ashburton.  Other  ways 
over  the  centre  are  for  the  most  part  mere  tracks,  which 
we  recommend  to  be  followed  with  care,  special  heed  being 
given  to  the  perilous  patches  of  bog  that  might  swallow  up 
an  unwary  traveller,  horse  and  man,  and  to  the  mists  that 
bewilder  even  experienced  natives.  In  our  limits  we  can 
do  little  more  than  trace  plain  ways ;  and  if  we  do  suggest 
divagations  here  and  there  we  would  impress  upon  our 
readers  the  need  of  caution.  It  is  not  wise  to  venture 
upon  these  wilds  without  some  practice  in  taking  care  of 
one's  self  in  hill  country ;  and  we  cannot  afford  to  supply 
the  doubtful  assistance  of  minute  clues  which,  once  lost, 
would  leave  an  amateur  astray  among  unfamiliar  dangers. 
Local  guidance  is  advisable  for  excursions  off  beaten  tracks  ; 
while  the  stranger  staying  for  a  little  in  any  neighbourhood 
will  soon  become  acquainted  with  its  leading  landmarks.  A 
good  companion  is  the  Ordnance  Map  ot  the  region  (Double 
Sheet,  324-338)  which  can  now  be  had  in  a  case  for  Is.  6d. 

As  a  rule,  in  the  following  section  the  use  of  small  print 
will  show  where  we  are  off  the  roads.  These,  so  far  as  they 
serve  us,  will  be  found  well  supplied  with  guide-posts. 
Except  on  some  stretches,  they  are  rather  trying  to  cyclists, 
who  must  remember  that  Dartmoor  was  not  laid  out  for 
their  pastime.  The  pedestrian  has  the  best  of  it  here. 
The    moor,   however,   is   traversed   in   summer   by  several 

10 


146  DARTMOOR 

systems  of  coach  excursions  in  connection  with  railways, 
the  chief  points  of  departure  being  Tavistock^  Moreton 
Hampstead,  Bovey  Tracey,  and  Newton  Abbot,  For  these  see 
the  time-tables  of  the  G.  W.  R. 

Railway  branches  mount  up  to  Princetown,  Moreton 
Hampstead  (p.  160),  and  Ashburton  (p.  154).  Other  towns 
lying  round  the  edge  of  the  moor  are  Ivy  Bridge  (p.  98), 
Lydford  (p.  171),  Okehampton  (p.  168),  Ghagford  (p.  164),  and 
Tavistock  (p.  134). 

PRINCETOWN 

Hotels :  Duchy  (with  Duchy  Boarding  House  in  connection),  Feathers,  etc. 

The  capital  of  the  moor,  as  it  might  be  called,  is  15 
miles  from  Plymouth,  the  bare  slopes  about  it  being  visible 
from  the  Hoe.  The  way  out  is  by  the  Tavistock  road, 
which  after  a  long,  high  stretch  over  Roborough  Down  is 
left  (to  the  right)  near  Yelverton  station  (p.  132),  where  the 
G.  W.  R.  branch  goes  off.  Road  and  rail  come  together  at 
Dousland,  whence  the  former  runs  on  as  straight  as  it  can, 
mounting  5  miles  of  bleak  moors ;  but  the  railway  is  nearly 
twice  as  long,  winding  upwards  in  the  manner  of  a  miniature 
St.  Gothard  line,  so  as  to  give  wide  views  in  all  directions. 
Passing  the  Burrator  Reservoir  (p.  132),  it  sweeps  round  first 
to  the  right,  then  to  the  left,  by  King  Tor,  before  tumbling 
out  its  passengers  just  outside  of  Princetown.  Even  if  one 
were  going  straight  back  again  to  Plymouth,  this  short 
journey  is  worth  taking  for  the  sake  of  its  glimpse  over 
Dartmoor. 

Princetown — though  Buxton  claims  to  look  down  on  it  as 
not  a  market  town — is  the  highest  town  in  England  (1400 
feet),  and  our  first  emotion  on  reaching  it  may  be  a  shiver, 
even  if  not  found  shrouded  in  mist  or  rain.  In  spite  of  an 
abnormal  number  of  wet  days,  however,  it  is  a  very  healthy 
height,  and  the  railway  has  helped  it  to  come  forward  as  a 
small  sanatorium.  New,  bleak,  and  dreary  is  the  first  aspect 
of  a  place  that  would  be  no  more  than  a  village  but  for  the 
huge  prison  dominating  it,  whose  unwilling  inmates  and 
their  attendants  make  the  bulk  of  the  population. 


DARTMOOR  DISTRICT 


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PRINCETOWN  1 47 

Daxtmoor  Prison. — This  building,  instead  of  any  harsh  inscription 
forbidding  hope  to  those  who  pass  its  gates,  bears  as  its  motto 
Virgil's  Parcere  subjectis.  Originally  used  as  a  depot  for  French 
prisoners  of  war,  who  found  the  neighbourhood  a  Siberian  change 
from  the  sunny  banks  of  Loire  or  Rhone,  also  for  American  sailors 
in  1813,  it  was  in  1850  adapted  as  one  of  our  chief  convict  establish- 
ments. The  prisoners  are  employed  on  a  farm,  or  in  the  great 
quarries  adjacent,  but  sometimes  have  to  be  kept  idle  for  days  or 
weeks  lest  they  should  attempt  escape  in  the  prevailing  fogs. 
Such  attempts  are  almost  hopeless  of  eventual  success,  so  vigilant 
is  the  guard  kept ;  but  occasionally  of  late  years  a  convict  has  been 
taken  after  getting  off  to  the  lowland  country.  The  harmless 
stranger,  prowling  about  these  precincts,  may  be  startled  to  en- 
counter armed  men  lurking  on  the  look-out,  who  are  not  bandits, 
but  warders  ;  and  stern  notices  against  trespassing,  so  superfluous 
on  most  parts  of  Dartmoor,  remind  us  that  here  we  must  be  on 
our  good  behaviour. 

For  honest  citizens  there  is  no  admission  to  the  prison  except 
on  business,  or  with  an  order  from  the  Home  OflBce. 

The  only  other  public  building  is  the  Church,  literally 
a  chapel-of-ease,  since  the  parish  church  at  Lydford  is  more 
than  a  dozen  miles  off.  This,  originally  constructed  by 
French  prisoners  in  the  great  war,  has  lately  been  restored 
and  embellished. 

The  main  interest  of  Princetown  to  strangers  is  as  afford- 
ing good  quarters  for  exploration  of  the  moor.  Several 
well-known  points  lie  close  at  hand.  North  Hessary  Tor 
(1600  feet)  gives  a  grand  view  above  the  prison.  This  is 
on  the  west  side  of  the  road  to  Tavistock,  a  short  mile 
north  of  the  station  ;  then  rather  farther  south  of  the  village, 
reached  by  a  track  from  the  Duchy  Hotel,  is  South  Hessary 
Tor  (1475  feet).  About  a  mile  west  of  the  latter,  to  the 
south  of  the  Yelverton  road,  rises  Harter  Tor,  on  whose 
south  side  is  a  mysterious  grouping  of  stones  and  hut  circles. 

The  Tavistock  Road  (7 J  miles)  goes  between  North 
Hessary  Tor  and  the  Prison,  in  about  a  mile  striking  into 
the  highway  from  Two  Bridges.  Turning  left  for  Tavistock, 
after  a  good  mile,  we  have  on  the  left  of  the  road  the  Merri- 
vale  Antiquities  (p.  139).  To  the  north  of  the  junction  of 
roads  rise  Little  and  Great  Mis  Tor  (p.  139),  on  the  east  side 
of  which  flows  the  Blackabrook.  About  a  mile  above  its 
crossing  of  the  road  to  Two  Bridges  will  be  found  Fit'^s 


148  DARTMOOR 

TVell,  its  cover  inscribed  with  the  date  1568.  This  is  con- 
nected with  some  legendary  memory  of  Sir  John  Fitz  of 
Fitzford,  who  appears  as  a  water  finder  of  his  period,  for 
wells  bearing  his  name  are  found  also  at  Tavistock  and 
Okehampton. 

At  the  end  of  Princetown,  as  we  go  out  on  the  main  road  east- 
wards, a  lane  turns  off  right  to  Tor  Royal,  a  short  mile  away, 
residence  of  the  Bailiff  of  the  Duchy,  which  seems  a  little  oasis  of 
green  in  the  wastes  around.  The  height  sometimes  called  Tor 
Royal  is  South  Hessary  Tor  (see  above)  on  maps,  locally  known 
as  Look-out  Tor,  which  lies  a  little  to  the  south.  A  mile  to  the 
east  another  height,  Boyal  Hill  (1333  feet),  is  surrounded  by 
kistvaens.  One  such  monument,  two  miles  to  the  south  of  this, 
over  the  Swincombe  River,  was  renowned  as  Childe's  Tomb,  where 
a  cross,  now  destroyed,  kept  the  legendary  memory  of  Amyas 
Childe  the  Hunter,  whose  perishing  in  the  snow  is  told  in  Mr. 
Baring  Gould's  *'  Songs  of  the  West." 

A  track  due  south  from  Tor  Royal  House  leads,  in  two  miles, 
to  the  Nun's  Cross,  alias  Siward's  Cross,  one  of  a  line  of  crosses 
that  once  marked  the  Abbots'  Way  running  between  the  Abbeys 
of  Tavistock  and  Buckfastleigh,  still  in  parts  to  be  traced  as  a 
green  path.  Here,  turning  westward,  in  a  couple  of  miles,  we 
should  strike  lanes  leading  down  to  the  Meavy  valley.  The  Leat, 
formed  to  supply  Devonport  with  water,  leads  us  in  this  direction 
to  Classenwell  Pool,  the  only  tarn  to  be  called  a  lake  on  Dart- 
moor, of  course  declared  to  be  bottomless,  in  point  of  fact  deep 
enough  to  drown  one,  but  its  reputation  has  been  overwhelmed 
by  the  Burrator  Reservoir  (p.  132),  two  miles  farther  on.  As  we  have 
experienced  more  than  once,  the  pool  is  difficult  to  hit  upon. 

North  eastward  from  the  Nun's  Cross,  one  might  make  towards 
the  water  wheels  of  deserted  tin  works  for  a  cautious  survey  of 
Fox  Tor  Mire,  celebrated  as  the  worst  among  Dartmoor  morasses. 

From  Nuns  Cross,  also,  adventurous  tourists  hold  on  for  a  tramp 
of  12  miles  or  so  to  Ivyhridge  (p.  98),  by  the  heads  of  the  Plym  and 
the  Erme,  passing  Three  Barrows  and  Sharpitor,  at  the  foot  of 
which  latter  will  be  found  a  patch  of  wood,  a  greater  rarity  on 
Dartmoor  than  the  name  Sharp  Tor,  which  belongs  to  several 
eminences.  As  to  this  route,  we  relieve  our  conscience  by  saying, 
that  though  drier  and  clearer  than  some  Dartmoor  tracks,  it  is  not 
to  be  undertaken  unless  by  those  who  can  steer  their  way  across 
country  with  the  aid  of  map  and  compass.  Some  2  miles  below 
the  Erme  Head  is  reached  the  stone  circle  called  Erme  Pound, 
whence  a  track  keeps  south  above  the  left  bank  to  Harford  (p.  99). 


TWO    BRIDGES  149 

PRINCETOWN  TO  MORETON  HAMPSTEAD  AND 
ASHBURTON  (each  about  14  miles) 

With  Tor  Royal  to  its  right,  and  the  wall  of  the  prison 
enclosure  making  a  cheerless  prospect  on  its  left,  the  high 
road  crossing  the  Blackabrook  runs  bleakly  on  for  a  mile 
to  its  junction  with  the  road  from  Tavistock  ;  then  a  little 
farther  reaches  in  a  cultivated  hollow  a  group  of  buildii^gs, 
of  which  the  principal  is  the  Saracen^s  Head  Inn.  This  is 
Two  Bridges,  the  meeting-point  of  the  four  Dartmoor  roads 
from  Princetown,  Tavistock,  Moreton  Hampstead,  and  Ashburton. 
Here,  too,  unite  the  Cowsic  and  the  West  Dart  rivers,  so 
that  the  inn  makes  a  good  centre  for  anglers  and  explorers 
who  may  be  lucky  enough  to  find  accommodation  at  it  in 
the  season. 

Up  the  Dart,  on  its  left  side,  are  Crockem  Tor,  by  no  means 
prominent  in  proportion  to  its  historical  importance,  and  beyond 
it  Wistman's  Wood,  to  which  the  pedestrian  will  no  doubt  turn  a 
mile  or  two  aside.  It  may  be  reached  by  the  farm  road  to  the 
left,  just  beyond  the  bridge  leading  out  on  the  moor,  where  the 
wood  will  be  seen  nestling  in  the  hollow  of  the  river ;  or  for 
Crockern  Tor  above,  we  may  gain  the  moor  through  a  patch  of 
wind-blown  trees  enclosing  a  ruined  cottage,  about  half  a  mile 
farther  on  the  Moreton  road.  North  of  Crockern  extends  a  line  of 
tors,  the  highest  of  which,  Higher  White  Tor  (over  1700  feet),  is 
gained  in  2  miles.     Between  this  line  and  the  river  lies  the  wood. 

Wistman's  Wood  probably  takes  its  name  from  whisht,  a 
Devonshire  synonym  for  "uncanny."  It  is  a  group  of  stunted 
and  gnarled  oaks,  mixed  with  ferns  and  mountain  ash,  rooted 
among  mossy  boulders  which  make  rough  scrambling.  There  are 
said  to  be  some  five  hundred  of  these  trees,  many  of  them  several 
centuries  old,  but  none  more  than  10  or  12  feet  high.  One 
tradition  gives  them  as  planted  in  the  13th  century  by  Isabella  de 
Fortibus,  Countess  of  Devon  ;  but  this  weird  wood  appears  to  be 
still  older.  It  is  naturally  connected  with  the  Druids,  and 
another  derivation  finds  its  name  in  their  synonym,  "  The  Wise 
Men."  Both  stones  and  trees  answer  doubly  to  ancient  ideas  of  a 
sacred  place,  and  few  superstitious  natives  would  care  to  find  them- 
selves here  in  the  dark.  It  is  haunted  by  adders,  which  make  a 
real  danger  ;  one  should  be  careful  in  picking  one's  steps  among 
the  boulders  and  their  choked-up  interstices.  While  this  weather- 
worn wood  seems  almost  as  ancient  as  the  stone  monuments 
around  it,  the  greenery  in  the  adjacent  Cowsic  glen  has  been 
carefully  nursed  into  beauty  within  the  last  century. 


150  ^  DARTMOOR 

The  Cowsic  Glen  runs  about  a  uiile  to  the  west,  separated  from 
Wistman's  Wood  by  the  ridge  of  Beardown.  Near  the  confluence 
the  stream  is  spanned  by  a  little  clapper  bridge.  Hence  its 
wooded  course  may  be  followed  for  3  or  4  miles,  up  to  its  source, 
between  DeviVs  Tor  on  the  east  and  Maiden  Hill  on  the  west,  both 
at  least  1750  feet.  To  the  south  of  the  latter  are  Hut  Circles, 
and  a  trace  of  the  old  Lyke  Way  running  westward  to  Lydford 
(p.  171),  in  a  mile  or  so  coming  down  upon  the  head-waters  of  the 
Walkham  (pp.  133,  139),  which  flows  from  a  height  some  miles 
north-west  of  Cowsic  Head. 

Two  Bridges  to  Cramnere  Pool.  — If  a  bold  adventurer  be  bent 
on  gaining  the  heart  of  the  moor,  Cranmere  Pool  lies  7  miles  due 
north,  along  a  ridge  of  tors  between  the  waters  of  the  Walkham 
and  those  of  the  two  Darts.  The  farm  track  crossing  the  Cowsic 
from  a  little  way  back  on  the  Tavistock  Road,  puts  us  at  once  on 
to  this  line,  where  the  course  of  this  stream  is  a  guide  for  some 
3  miles.  Beyond,  bounding  the  prospect  northward,  should  be 
seen  a  hog's-back  ridge,  crowned  by  a  triangular  mound.  This  is 
Cut  Hill  (nearly  2000  feet)  5  miles  north  of  Two  Bridges.  To 
reach  it  one  must  keep  as  much  as  possible  along  the  ridge.  The 
cairn  is  surmounted  by  an  Ordnance  pole,  from  which  a  wide  but 
monotonous  view  opens  up  in  front.  Northwards  is  Yes  Tor 
(p.  170),  hardly  distinguishable  from  its  fellows,  and  nearer  at  hand 
the  valley  of  the  Tavy  rapidly  deepens.  Cawsand  Beacon  (p.  167), 
a  long  whale-backed  ridge,  is  a  little  east  of  north. 

Beyond  Cut  Hill  comes  the  most  trying  part  of  Dartmoor,  the 
region  of  Cranmere  Pool,  which  has  a  mysterious  reputation, 
founded  mainly  on  the  difficulty  of  reaching  it.  It  is  believed  to 
have  grown  drier  in  recent  times,  but  after  heavy  rains  may  be 
more  formidable.  The  search  after  it  might  almost  have  suggested 
to  Browning  Childe  Roland's  coming  to  the  Dark  Tower,  on  the 
way  to  which  so  many  knights  were  wildered  among — 

"  Now  blotches  rankling,  coloured  grey  and  grim. 
Now  patches  where  some  leanness  of  the  soil's. 
Broke  into  moss,  or  substances  like  boils." 

If  it  be  found,  there  is  usually  nothing  to  see  but  "  a  slight 
depression  in  a  soil  of  inky  blackness,  bounded  on  every  side  by 
morass,  and  having  on  the  western  side  a  narrow  strip  of  water, 
nowhere  attaining  a  foot  in  depth,  and  which  in  hot  weather 
disappears  in  the  bog.  By  its  margin  stands  a  low  cairn  of  white 
stones,  erected  by  Perrot,  the  well-known  Chagford  guide  ;  within 
it  will  be  found  a  canister  containing  the  names  of  the  adventurous 
few  who  have  succeeded  in  discovering  this  melancholy  hollow" 
(Page's  Dartmoor).  This  is  the  "Cranmere  Post  Ofiice,"_ where 
those  who  may  achieve  the  exploit  have  the  satisfaction  of 
leaving  their  cards  on  the  genius  loci,  rather  a  disreputable  spirit 


POST    BRIDGE  151 

indeed,  "Bingie"  by  name,  an  ex-mayor  of  Okehampton,  who, 
for  misdoings  in  the  flesh,  is  doomed  to  bale  out  the  pool  with  a 
sieve,  or  with  a  holed  thimble,  a  legend  like  that  of  the  Cornish 
Tregeagle.  The  depression,  it  must  be  remembered,  is  at  a  greater 
altitude  than  many  of  the  prominent  tors.  From  the  waste  of 
oozy  and  fissured  bog  around  issue  all  the  bright  waters  which 
carve  the  edges  of  Dartmoor  into  such  loveliness.  Cranmere  Pool, 
in  its  small  way,  is  here  what  the  Tibetan  tablelands  are  to  Asia. 
It  need  hardly  be  said  that  this  is  no  trip  for  every  pedestrian. 
When  he  has  haply  come  safe  to  Cranmere  Pool,  he  may  be  glad 
to  turn  back  again.  But  if  bent  on  further  adventures,  he  may 
hold  on  about  as  far,  still  in  the  same  direction,  to  Okehaimpton  (p. 
168),  guided  by  the  streams,  which  now  flow  northwards,  the  East 
Okement  straight  ahead,  the  Taw  a  little  to  the  east.  Dart  Head 
lies  in  a  depression  some  half  mile  south-east  of  Cranmere  Pool ; 
thence  the  East  Dart  takes  him  southward  to  the  high  road  at 
Fost  Bridge  (see  below).  The  waters  flowing  eastward  run  to  the 
North  and  South  Teign,  which  unite  a  little  way  above  Chagford 
(p.  164).  As  the  crow  flies,  Cranmere  Pool  lies  6  or  7  miles  from 
each  of  these  points,  as  also  from  the  western  edge  of  the  moor 
a\iOYe  Lydford\^.  170). 

Two  Bridges  to  Moreton  Hampstead  (12  J  miles). — 
The  road  leads  us  on  in  4  miles,  over  Cherry  Brook,  to  Post 
Bridge ;  the  lion  of  which  is  the  most  famous  of  the  Clapper 
Bridges,  which  are  features  of  Dartmoor.  Close  below  the 
modern  bridge  over  the  East  Dart,  it  is  formed  by  four  piers 
of  granite  supporting  a  roadway  of  huge  stones,  each  1 5  feet 
long.  At  Post  Bridge  we  find  a  sight  almost  rarer  on  the 
moor,  something  like  a  village,  with  two  chapels  and  a 
Temperance  Inn,  where  one  might  halt  to  make  divagations. 

Near  at  hand,  on  the  left,  is  Lake  Head  Pound,  the  traces  of  a 
fortified  camp.  In  the  same  direction,  3  miles  up  the  Long  Ridge, 
we  come  to  the  Grey  Wethers,  two  incomplete  stone  circles,  so 
called  from  their  resemblance  to  a  flock  of  sheep,  lying  at  the  base 
of  Sittaford  Tor  to  the  west  (1764  feet),  easily  ascended  by  those 
who  would  try  to  rock  the  logan-stone  at  its  summit.  From  the 
Grey  Wethers  one  might  track  a  stream  for  a  couple  of  miles 
north-east  to  the  Femworthy  Circle,  another  of  the  broken 
"  Roundy-poundies  "  of  Dartmoor,  where  there  is  a  small  clapper 
bridge.  Thence,  by  lanes  eastwards  in  about  4  miles,  could  be 
reached  Chagford  (p.  164). 

Post  Bridge  is  believed  to  have  been  a  crossing-place  of  the 
ancient  track-way  across  Dartmoor.  A  well-greaved  explorer 
might  try  to  trace  this  westwards  between  the  two  Darts,    or  on 


152  DARTMOOR 

the  other  side  a  little  north  of  east  in  3  or  4  miles  to  Grimspound 
(see  below). 

From  Post  Bridge,  the  road  ascends  Merripit  Hill,  where 
a  by-way,  right,  would  lead  across  to  Ashhurton  by  the 
Buckland  region  (p.  158)  in  some  dozen  crooked  miles.  The 
top  of  the  hill  (1474  feet)  is  to  the  left  of  the  main  road, 
which  in  3  miles  reaches  a  small  inn  known  as  the  Warren 
House,  from  the  large  rabbit-warren  near  it. 

At  an  ancient  stone  cross  on  the  right,  marked  W.  B.,  i.e. 
Warren  Bounds,  the  tourist  may  make  his  way  in  2  miles  over  the 
moor  by  a  rugged  path  past  Vitifer  Mine,  which  was  working  not 
many  years  ago — to  Grimspound,  the  largest  and  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  memorials  of  this  kind  on  the  moor,  a  circular  stone 
camp  with  walls  of  great  thickness,  containing  hut  circles.  It 
lies  on  the  north-west  of  the  long  ridge  called  Hameldown,  whose 
highest  point,  Hameldown  Tor,  overlooks  Grimspound  from  the 
south.  Along  this  ridge,  3  miles  southwards,  is  reached  Widdecomhe 
(p.  158).  The  valley  itself  is  many  hundred  feet  above  sea-level, 
but  when  seen  from  the  surrounding  heights  presents  a  com- 
paratively fertile  appearance.  Hence  a  lane  leads  back  to  the 
main  highway,  by  which  Grimspound  is  some  8  miles  from  Moreton 
Hampstead. 

On  the  direct  road,  two  miles  or  so  beyond  the  Warren 
House,  after  obtaining  a  fine  view  to  the  north,  we  begin  to 
descend  to  cultivation  again.  At  Bector  Cross — where  a 
cross  once  stood,  now  removed — 3  miles  short  of  Moreton 
Hampstead,  our  road  crosses  that  from  Chagford  to  Ashburton, 
and  brings  us  upon  the  more  varied  borders  of  the  moorland, 
where  still  we  are  several  hundred  feet  above  the  sea. 
Crossing  the  Bovey  stream  we  come  down  to  Moreton 
Hampstead  (p.  160),  before  dealing  with  which  let  us  turn  to 
Ashburton. 

Two  Bridges  to  Ashburton  (12  miles). — This  road 
turns  off  to  the  right,  continuing  the  Tavistock  road  in 
almost  a  straight  line.  On  its  south  side  the  bends  of  the 
accompanying  West  Dart  would  keep  one  from  wandering 
far.  About  a  mile  down,  its  Blackahrook  tributary  from  the 
east  leads  back  to  the  Princetown  road,  as  2  or  3  miles 
farther,  the  Swincomhe,  a  good  angling  stream,  flowing  from  the 


TO    ASHBURTON    BY    DARTMEET  153 

south-west,  would  be  a  guide  towards  Nun's  Cross  (p.  148). 
Between  them,  nearly  2  miles  out,  the  road  crosses  the 
Cherry  Brook  from  the  north,  up  which,  in  a  couple  of  miles, 
one  could  strike  to  the  Moreton  Hampstead  road,  or  might 
take  into  it  a  longer  line  a  little  farther  east  over  Believer  Tor 
(1450)  and  other  heights  dotted  with  hut  circles  and  kistvaens. 
Believer  {alias  Bellaford)  Tor  is  celebrated  for  a  popular  meet 
that  signals  the  last  day  of  hare-hunting,  soon  after  Easter. 

Less  than  a  mile  beyond  Cherry  Brook,  south  of  Believer 
Tor,  the  road  brings  us  by  Dennabridge  Pound,  where  a 
curious  stone  structure  is  said  to  be  the  "Judge's  Chair," 
brought  from  the  meeting-place  of  the  Stannary  Parliament 
on  Crockern  Tor  ;  and  at  Dennabridge  Farm,  not  far  off,  a 
large  slab  is  shown  as  the  Council  Table.  The  Pound  itself, 
though  originally  perhaps  a  sacred  circle,  has  been  rebuilt 
in  modern  times  and  adapted  to  a  practical  purpose  in  the 
periodical  "  drifts,"  when  the  ponies  and  cattle  are  driven 
together  from  a  whole  quarter  of  the  moor,  that  stray 
animals  may  be  sorted  out  and  restored  to  their  owners, 
a  ceremony  graphically  described  in  Mr.  Baring-Gould's 
"Urith." 

In  less  than  2  miles,  the  road,  falling  from  a  height  of 
over  1000  feet,  gives  off  branches,  right  and  left,  as  a  token 
that  we  are  getting  out  of  the  wilds  ;  and  patches  of  culti- 
vation show  man  struggling  to  gain  ground  against  the 
reluctance  of  nature.  That  to  the  right,  crossing  the  West 
Dart  at  Hexworthy,  where  old  Forest  Inn  seems  to  be 
renovating  itself,  leads  in  about  5  miles  to  Holne  (p.  159), 
and  thus  by  a  slight  round  to  Ashburton  or  to  Buckfastleigh 
(p.  155).  The  main  road  drops  steeply  down  to  Dartmeet 
Bridge,  where  at  last  we  leave  the  vast  moorland  parish  of 
Lydford. 

The  confluence  of  the  East  and  West  Dart  here  is  one  of  the 
notable  nooks  of  Dartmoor,  though  for  want  of  wood  it  makes  not 
such  a  fine  scene  as  the  famous  Watersmeet  above  Lynmouth. 
Up  the  East  Dart  the  pedestrian  might  turn  a  little  way,  if  only 
for  a  bathe  in  one  of  its  pools,  or  a  climb  to  Far  Tor  (1300  feet) 
on  its  left  bank.  If  he  held  on  up  it  for  3  or  4  miles,  at  the 
Cyclopean  Bridge  of  Believer,  he  would  strike  a  road  leading 
eastward  to  Widdecomhe  (p.  158),  or  in  a  couple  of  miles  more  the 


154  DARTMOOR 

stream  would  take  him  across  the  Moreton  Hampstead  road   at 
Post  Bridge  (p.  151). 

From  Dartmeet  to  Ashburton  is  nearly  8  miles  by 
Poundsgate,  New  Bridge^  and  Holne  Bridge,  a  most  beautiful 
route,  where  moorland  and  woodland  mingle  their  contrasted 
charms.  But  as  most  visitors  here  have  Ashburton  as  their 
starting-point,  it  seems  best  to  transfer  our  centre  to  that 
town,  and  thence  to  trace  the  broken  features  of  Dartmoor's 
eastern  side,  before  coming  round  to  Moreton  Hampstead. 

ASHBURTON 

From  Plymouth  or  Exeter. — Ashburton  lies  on  the 
best  road  between  these  two  places,  20  miles  from  the 
latter,  over  Haldon  Hill  and  by  Ghudleigh  (p.  50),  24 
miles  from  the  former  by  Ivy  Bridge  (p.  98),  South  Brent 
(p.  97),  and  Buckfastleigh  (p.  155),  coming  round  the  south 
side  of  the  moor,  and  rising,  beyond  Brent,  to  the  height 
of  some  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  South  Hams,  where  it 
crosses  more  than  one  hill  stream. 

Between  South  Brent  and  Dean  (see  below)  a  straighter  and 
higher  loop  passing  by  Brent  Hill  may  be  taken  by  pedestrians, 
who  might  also  strike  north  up  the  Avon  over  Brent  Moor, 
and  from  its  headwaters  turn  east  by  the  "Sandy  Way"  along 
Holne  Ridge  to  Holne  (p.  159),  or  some  3  miles  above  Brent  track 
the  Abbot's  "Way  in  the  same  direction  to  Buckfastleigh.  Holne 
Moor  they  would  find  being  cut  up  by  a  new  Reservoir  for  Paignton. 

Totnes  to  Ashburton  is  a  road  of  8  miles,  mounting  the 
valley  of  the  Lower  Dart,  and  keeping  near  the  railway 
branch,  which  we  may  take  as  our  main  guide  here.  This 
road  joins  that  from  Plymouth  near  Buckfastleigh  (see  below) 
2  miles  out  of  Ashburton. 

Rail  to  Ashburton. — The  G.  W.  R.  branch  goes  off 
at  Totnes,  passing,  as  shown  in  our  Torquay  section  (p.  85), 
by  Hartington  and  Staverton,  about  which  will  be  seen 
several  picturesque  bridges  and  probably  a  few  anglers 
mid-leg  in  the  Dart,  now  a  lowland  river.  The  scenery 
of  the  valley  is  so  pretty,  that  one  is  surprised,  a  few  miles 
up  it,  to  find  a  small  manufacturing  town  lying  among  hills. 


BUCKFASTLEIGH  155 

This  is  Buckfastleigh  (King's  Arms),  a  place  of  some  5000 
people,  busy  in  making  serges  and  blankets,  once  famous 
for  its  rich  Abbey,  from  which,  as  has  been  mentioned, 
a  way  ran  across  the  moor  to  that  of  Tavistock.  The  wool 
industry  is  of  old  date  here,  seeming  to  have  been  carried 
on  by  the  monks. 

The  Church,  perched  up  on  high,  is  attained  by  a  flight  of 
more  than  100  steps.  The  well-worn  legend  runs  that  it  was 
placed  here  out  of  the  reach  of  the  devil,  who  had  a  troublesome 
habit  of  undoing  every  night  the  work  accomplished  by  the  builders 
during  the  day.  The  building,  which  has  the  distinction  of  a 
spire,  is  Early  English  in  style,  but  with  later  additions  and 
alterations.  In  the  churchyard  stand  several  tombs  of  the  black 
marble  quarried  here,  and  a  small  chantry  covering  the  daisied 
graves  of  Admiral  White  and  his  wife. 

A  mile  above  the  town,  on  a  grassy  slope  which  stretches  down 
to  the  Dart,  are  the  barn,  some  ancient  walls,  and  an  original 
tower  and  gateway  of  Biuckfastleigh  Abbey,  a  Cistercian  house, 
refounded  in  1137  by  Ethelward  de  Pomeroy,  on  the  site  of  an 
ancient  Saxon  Benedictine  one.  It  was  suppressed  in  1538,  and 
after  passing  through  various  hands  eventually  sank  into  decay. 
Out  of  its  ruins  were  built  a  large  factory  and  several  of  the 
village  houses.  In  1882  the  site  of  the  Abbey,  with  the  ground 
immediately  surrounding  it,  was  purchased  on  behalf  of  a  com- 
munity of  Benedictine  monks,  then  recently  expelled  from  France, 
by  whom  the  modern  structure  has  been  taken  down,  the 
foundations  of  the  old  buildings  being  excavated  ;  and  the  Abbey, 
like  a  phoenix  restored  from  its  ashes,  is  now  the  residence  of  a 
flourishing  modern  monastic  community.  The  four-storied  Tower, 
in  the  west  angle,  is  one  of  the  original  buildings,  known  as 
the  "Abbot's  Tower." 

Though  Buckfastleigh  be  not  a  very  attractive  place  in 
itself,  there  is  some  fine  scenery  about  it 

Dean. — A  mile  or  so  south-west,  on  the  Plymouth  high  road, 
comes  Dean  Court,  an  old  seat  of  the  Giles  family.  Herrick,  the 
poet,  was  appointed  to  the  vicarage  by  Charles  I.,  and  here  he 
wrote  the  greater  part  of  his  Hesperides.  He  was  not  at  first 
enchanted  with  his  rude  parishioners,  but  learnt  to  appreciate 
them  better,  and  to  take  delight  in  their  ancient  customs,  as  his 
verses  show.  Driven  out  of  his  living  by  the  Puritans,  he  returned 
at  the  Restoration  to  spend  his  last  years  in  more  peace  and  con- 
tentment, dying  1674.  There  is  a  handsome  brass  to  his  memory 
in  the  Church,  nearly  a  mile  south  of  Dean  Court.     To  the  west 


156  DARTMOOR 

is  Dean  Burn^  a  romantic  glen,  brightened  by  a  stream  which 
leaps  over  the  crags  in  several  shimmering  waterfalls. 

Two  miles  north-west  of  Buckfastleigh,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Dart,  is  Hembury  Castle,  an  oblong  Danish  entrenchment,  finely- 
overlooking  the  Dart,  which  almost  circles  it  round  to  Holne. 

Buckfastleigh  is  the  nearest  station  for  Holne  (p.  159),  by  which 
one  could  make  a  short  cut  into  the  Two  Bridges  Road. 

Beyond  Buckfastleigh  the  line  turns  east  from  the  Dart, 
following  its  little  tributary  the  Yeo  to  Ashburton,  on  the 
edge  of  the  moor. 

Ashburton  (Golden  Lion,  London,  etc).,  an  ancient  borough, 
Stannary,  and  market-town,  of  3000  inhabitants,  once  noted 
for  its  fulling-mills,  now  eclipsed  in  cloth  making  by 
Buckfastleigh,  takes  its  name  from  the  small  river  Yeo, 
anciently  known  as  the  Ashhurn.  It  stands  in  a  hollow, 
sheltered  from  cold  winds,  its  four  streets  meeting  at  the 
"  Bull  Ring,"  to  which  bulls  are  no  longer  tied,  but  cyclists 
take  it  as  a  sign  for  baiting. 

The  Parish  Church  of  St.  Andrew,  restored  a  few  years 
back,  is  a  fine  Perpendicular  building,  with  a  Transition 
Norman  porch.  It  contains  a  monument  in  memory  of 
John  Dunning,  first  Lord  Ashburton,  with  an  inscription 
by  Dr.  Johnson.  The  ancient  Chapel  of  St.  Lawrence, 
near  the  railway  station,  is  now  used  as  a  Grammar  School. 
Ashburton's  most  celebrated  native  was  perhaps  William 
Gifford,  the  first  editor  of  the  Quarterly  Review,  and  its  most 
stirring  historical  memory  the  marching  through  of  Fairfax's 
army  in  1646.  Its  great  attraction  to  strangers  is  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  finest  river  scenery  of  the  Dart, 
bordered  by  Dartmoor  heights,  through  which  pleasure 
drives  are  organised  in  summer.  Mr.  Anthony  TroUope 
emphatically  declared  this  to  be  the  most  beautiful  corner 
of  England. 

No  part  of  Dartmoor  is  more  traversed  by  coaches  than 
the  rugged  country  lying  between  Ashburton  and  the 
railway  branch  from  Newton  Abbot  to  Moreton  Hampstead. 
Here  we  will  only  mention  the  round  of  10  miles  or  so  to 
Bovey  Tracey  station,  past  BucJcland  Beacon  (see  below)  and 


A8HBURT0N  167 

by  Hay  Tor,  nearly  1500  feet  high,  crowned  by  the  largest 
mass  of  rocks  on  Dartmoor,  its  double  head  commanding  a 
grand  view  southwards  that  takes  in  the  towns  of  Torquay, 
Teignmouth,  Chudleigh,  Newton  Abbot,  and  Totnes.  The 
Rock  Inn  is  an  old  halting-place  ;  now  two  hotels  are  about  to 
be  opened  here'  {Moorlands^  below  the  height,  and  Hay  Tor  at 
Ilsington,  a  mile  or  so  towards  Newton  Abbot),  so  that  this  lofty 
corner  of  the  moor  aspires  to  the  new  fame  of  a  health  resort, 
and  the  road  by  it  will  be  less  than  ever  lonely  in  summer, 
when  so  many  coaches  ply  on  rounds  that  take  in  Manaton 
(p.  162),  the  Becky  Falls  (p.  162),  Widdecomhe  (p.  15  8),  the  Dart 
Valley,  etc.  Between  Buckland  Beacon  and  Hay  Tor  is 
Bippon  Tor  (1564  feet),  with  its  Logan  Stone,  4  miles  due 
north  of  Ashburton,  the  first  stage  of  the  straightest  way  being 
up  the  course  of  the  Yeo. 

Two  miles  west  of  the  town,  above  the  picturesque  Holne 
Bridge,  the  Dart  makes  a  long  bend  round  the  bold  pro- 
montory of  Holne  Chace.  The  beautifully-wooded  horse- 
shoe glen  is  occupied  on  both  sides  by  private  grounds,  through 
which  the  defile  winds  round  4  miles  from  Holne  Bridge,  at 
the  Ashburton  end,  to  New  Bridge,  the  road  cutting  across 
between  these  points  being  not  half  as  long. 

The  Buckland  Drives,  on  the  left  bank,  are  closed,  we  under- 
stand, except  twice  a  week  to  driving  parties.  Holne  Chace  is 
open  to  carriages  %,nd  pedestrians  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays, 
Saturdays,  and  Bank  Holidays  in  the  summer  months.  Both 
are,  or  used  to  be,  shut  to  cyclists,  and  above  all  to  those 
whose  errand  is  fishing,  here  strictly  preserved.  In  autumn, 
especially,  the  glorious  tints  of  masses  of  mingled  foliage  so  admir- 
ably displayed  on  the  rocky  heights  through  which  the  river 
curves  its  way,  make  such  a  spectacle  as  few  landlords  would  keep 
altogether  to  themselves.  On  the  Buckland  side  a  crag  bears  the 
fame  of  the  Lover's  Leap,  a  sheer  rock  naturally  suggesting  the 
good  old  story  so  often  told  of  such  features.  On  the  heights  of 
Holne  Chace,  not  far  from  Holne  Bridge,  might  be  found  a  curious 
camp  of  concealment,  which  commonly  escapes  the  notice  even  of 
guide-books.  It  has  a  perfect  fosse,  30  to  40  feet  wide,  with  an 
agger  inside  ;  and  the  south-west  entrance  is  so  constructed  as  to 
expose  an  assailant  to  missiles  for  more  than  20  yards  after  enter- 
ing the  work. 


158  DARTMOOR 

Above  the  elbow  of  the  river's  bend  is  Buckland-on-tlie- 
Moor,  about  4  miles  from  Ashburton  by  road,  with  Buckland 
Beacon  (1260  feet)  to  ascend  on  the  right  of  it  for  a  grand 
view  southwards  over  the  richest  reaches  of  the  Dart.  The 
little  bridge  which  spans  the  trout  stream  in  the  middle  of 
the  village  is  picturesquely  situated  amidst  woodland  and 
park  scenery,  the  ancient  Church  being  entirely  surrounded 
by  trees.  Below,  on  the  west  side,  runs  the  Webburn,  a 
lovely  brook,  down  which  one  can  gain  the  Dart  in  a  short 
mile,  then  keeping  up  it  about  as  far  cross  at  New  Bridge,  4 
miles  from  Ashburton.  Or,  opposite  Buckland,  we  might 
gain  the  rocks  of  Luesdon,  and  by  the  Church  here  cross 
over  into  the  Two  Bridges  road. 

The  Webburn  is  formed  by  two  branches,  east  and  west, 
joining  above  Buckland.  Up  the  former,  or  by  winding 
road,  3  miles  north,  stands  Widdecombe  Church,  known  as 
the  Cathedral  of  Dartmoor,  a  fine  fane  indeed  for  such  a 
lonely  situation,  and  much  too  large  for  its  congregation. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  originally  built  by  tin  miners  as  a 
thank-offering  in  the  15th  century. 

The  battlemented  tower,  which  is  its  chief  glory,  will  recall 
that  of  Magdalen  College,  Oxford.  There  are  some  brasses  inside 
and  fragments  of  a  fine  screen.  Outside  stands  a  venerable  yew, 
and  a  row  of  ancient  almshouses  make  up  a  good  part  of  the 
village.  The  neighbourhood  has  a  bad  name  for  thunder-storms  ; 
a  notorious  one  in  1638  seriously  damaged  the  tower,  as  may 
still  be  seen,  and  as  is  recorded  in  some  quaint  lines  by  the  village 
dominie,  displayed  on  a  board  on  the  wall.  Four  of  the  congrega- 
tion were  killed  and  many  injured  by  this  catastrophe,  which  of 
course  gave  rise  to  grim  legends  of  diabolic  agency. 

Widdecombe-in-the- Moors  is  the  full  style  and  pronunciation  of 
this  place,  where  we  are  well  on  Dartmoor.  It  has  its  "  Old  Inn," 
and  in  the  vicinity  is,  or  was,  the  "South  Devon  Sports"  Hotel, 
with  shooting  and  fishing  for  its  guests.  Another  hotel  proposed 
near  Buckland  has  for  the  present  come  to  nought. 

From  Widdecombe  the  pedestrian  can  hold  on  in  various 
directions  to  spots  elsewhere  described — by  a  side  road  westwards, 
which  joins  the  Princetown-Moreton  Hampstead  road  at  Merripit 
Hill  (p.  152)  ;  north  by  Hamddown^  past  Ghrims'pound  (p.  152), 
into  the  same  road,  and  so  to  Moreton  Hampstead  by  a  round  of 
nearly  20  miles  in  all  from  Ashburton ;  north-eastward  to  Manaton 
and  Lustleigh  Cleave  above  Lustleigh  Station  ;  or  eastward  to 
Bovey  Tracey  by  Hay  Tor  (p.  161).     Space  forbids  us  to  make 


ASHBURTON  169 

these  by-ways  plain  ;  but  with  a  good  map  and  good  weather  there 
should  be  no  going  astray. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  Dart,  strangers  should  know 
that  Holne  village,  2  miles  from  the  bridge,  was  the 
birthplace  of  Charles  Kingsley.  It  stands  loftily  on  a  ridge 
close  to  the  moor,  where  a  prominent  landmark  is  the  high 
clump  of  trees  known  as  Gallantry  Bower.  Buckfastleigh 
(p.  155)  is  a  little  the  nearest  station  by  the  devious  lanes 
of  this  district.  Holne's  13th-century  Church  contains  a 
painted  screen  and  old  armorial  pulpit  worth  seeing,  as  well 
as  a  memorial  window  to  Kingsley ;  and  there  is  a  venerable 
hollow  yew  in  the  churchyard.  Close  to  it  the  Church 
House  makes  a  cosy  inn,  frequented  by  anglers. 

Holne  is  rather  farther  from  the  bridge  of  its  name  than  from 
New  Bridge,  to  which  there  is  a  beautiful  walk  down  the  wooded 
heights  edging  the  Dart,  up  the  course  of  which,  also  (on  Mondays, 
Wednesdays,  and  Fridays),  the  way  through  the  woods  is  open  to 
Dart^neet  (p.  153).  A  road,  keeping  on  the  high  ground,  leads  us 
on  by  Hexworthy  Bridge  over  the  West  Dart,  in  about  5  miles 
striking  the  main  road  from  Ashburton  to  Two  Bridges.  This 
junction  takes  place  beyond  Dartmeet,  to  which,  however,  from 
Holne  we  can  bear  to  the  right  across  the  moor. 

Ashburton  to  Two  Bridges  (12  m.). — This  road  is 
the  backbone  of  the  divagations  we  have  been  making 
about  it.  Beyond  Holne  Chace,  at  New  Bridge,  it  begins 
to  climb  upon  the  moor  proper,  where  a  short  cut  may 
be  made  on  foot  across  a  bend  to  the  right.  The  view 
backwards  on  the  Dart  and  Holne  ridge  must  by  no 
means  be  forgotten.  Higher  up  the  ascent,  on  the  left,  goes 
off  a  turf  way  leading  finely  above  the  gorge  of  the  river, 
and  curving  back  into  the  road  a  mile  or  more  on,  beyond 
Poundsgate.  This  small  hamlet  has  an  unpretending 
hostelry,  which  we  must  make  the  best  of,  as  it  is  the  last 
we  shall  find  on  the  way,  though  refreshments  can  be  had 
at  a  house  by  Dartmeet.  To  the  right  stands  Luesdon  Church 
(p.  158)  ;  to  the  left  rises  a  prominent  tor,  which  might  be 
ascended  for  its  prospect  into  the  Dart  Valley,  and  a  ramble 
on  its  west  side  would  show  several  rock  basins.     Two  miles 


160  DARTMOOR 

farther,  the  river  is  crossed  at  Dartrmet  (p.  153),  from  which 
the  rest  of  the  way  has  been  described. 


MORETON    HAMPSTEAD 

The  railway  route  to  this  moorland  town  makes  a  round 
from  Plymouth,  the  branch  going  off  at  Newton  Ahhot,  which 
comes  into  our  Exeter  Section  (p.  62).  Moreton  is  12  miles 
from  Exeter  by  road  and  about  29  from  the  centre  of 
Plymouth  by  Princetown  and  Two  Bridges,  which  is  the 
shortest  line. 

Rail  to  Moreton  Hampstead  — From  Newton  Ahhot 
Junction  the  branch  line  passes  up  the  valley  of  the  Teign, 
then  that  of  its  tributary  the  Bovey_,  shut  in  by  wooded  and 
heathy  heights,  that  also  fix  the  course  of  the  road.  As  we 
go  out  beside  the  course  of  the  canal,  on  a  height  to  the  left 
appears  Sampford  Audley,  which  was  the  home  of  Sir  S. 
Baker,  the  traveller.  The  first  station  is  Teigngrace,  with 
its  church  spire,  a  distinction  in  this  land  of  towers.  To 
the  left  lies  Stover  Park,  a  demesne  of  the  Duke  of 
Somerset,  containing  a  good -sized  lake  that  makes  the  joy 
of  skaters,  when  any  skating  can  be  had  in  Devonshire. 
Two  miles  farther  comes  Heathfield  Junction,  where  the 
branch  to  Chudleigh  (p.  50)  goes  off  up  the  Teign,  while 
that  to  Moreton  Hampstead  turns  up  the  Bovey.  By  this 
station  crosses  the  high  road  from  Exeter,  through  Chudleigh, 
to  Ashburton  (p.  156). 

Heathfield  is  remarkable  for  its  thick  bed  of  lignite  clay  and 
sand  which  formed  the  basin  of  a  now  dry  lake,  and  embalms  the 
remains  of  many  plants  indicating  a  sub-tropical  climate,  notably 
fragments  of  the  sequoia  pine  now  found  only  in  California,  while 
in  the  superimposed  clay  are  traces  of  Arctic  vegetation  from  a 
much  colder  period.  Fine  potter's  clay  is  got  here,  turned  to 
account  in  the  Bovey  Tracey  Potteries,  which  will  presently  be  seen 
beside  the  line,  and  may  be  visited  from  Bovey  for  a  sight  of  the 
ornamental  ware  produced  at  them. 

Bovey  Tracey  (Hotels :  Dolphin,  Railway,  Union,  etc.). 
This  quiet  town  of  some  2000  people  is  the  best  known 


MORETON  HAMPSTEAD  DISTRICT 


BOVEY    TRACEY  161 

way  station  on  the  branch,  since  here  in  summer  start  two 
sets  of  circular  coach  excursions,  varied  daily,  so  arranged  as 
to  allow  passengers  from  Exeter,  Torquay,  etc.,  to  visit  the 
best  parts  of  the  moor  and  return  in  the  evening  (for  hours 
and  routes,  see  bills  and  G.  W.  R.  time-tables).  But  Bovvey^ 
as  it  is  pronounced,  lying  on  a  green  slope  over  the  valley 
of  its  stream,  within  an  hour's  walk  of  wilder  scenes,  will 
be  found  well  worth  a  visit  on  its  own  account.  It  has 
an  historical  interest  in  Cromwell's  night  surprise  of  Lord 
Wentworth  at  what  seems  such  an  out-of-the-way  spot. 

The  station  is  close  to  the  two  chief  hotels,  by  which 
comes  in  the  main  road  from  Newton  Abbot  (6  miles),  pass- 
ing the  new  Church,  built  by  the  Courtenay  family,  prettily 
placed  among  trees,  and  richly  decorated  with  modern 
ecclesiastical  art.  At  the  hotels  the  road  turns  up  to  the 
town,  where  past  a  tall  old  cross,  restored  and  re-erected 
here,  one  holds  on,  right,  to  the  old  Church,  a  Perpendicular 
one  carefully  restored,  which  replaced  an  earlier  structure 
said  to  have  been  an  expiatory  offering  of  Sir  William 
Tracey,  one  of  Becket's  murderers.  It  has  a  good  screen 
and  pulpit.  Another  old  cross  has  been  restored  in  front  of 
it  as  a  memorial  to  a  former  incumbent.  Beyond  are  the 
grounds  of  the  Devon  House  of  Mercy,  where  good  women 
try  to  reclaim  their  fallen  sisters. 

From  the  church  there  is  a  view  over  the  valley,  which  may 
be  extended  by  keeping  farther  on  the  road  to  Chudleigh,  or 
mounting  the  lane  just  short  of  the  church.  This  leads  up  to  a 
height  about  850  feet,  from  which  we  can  look  over  into  the  Teign 
Valley.  Two  miles  north  here  stands  Hennock,  whose  church  has 
a  screen  and  old  stained  glass  to  show.  Near  it  the  Bottor  Bock 
is  a  view-point  often  visited  by  those  sound  in  lung  and  limb, 
for  on  driving  parties  here,  able-bodied  passengers  are  expected 
to  do  a  good  deal  of  walking.  Half  an  hour's  walk  from  Hennock 
brings  one  down  to  Trusham  station  (p.  51)  on  the  Teign  Valley 
line.  Shaptor  Rock  is  another  point  to  be  sought  out  a  mile  west 
of  Hennock. 

The  chief  excursions  are  on  the  Dartmoor  side  of  the  valley. 
Three  or  four  miles  westward  rises  one  of  the  most  famous  points 
of  this  region,  Hay  Tor  (p.  157),  a  main  goal  in  most  of  the  coach 
excursions.      Hence  a  round  of    10   miles  takes  one  on  below 

11 


162  ^  DARTMOOR 

Buckland  Beacon  (1260  feet),  overlooking  the  rich  scenery  of  the 
Dart,  to  Ashburton,  terminus  of  the  branch  from  Totnes  (p.  154). 

Lustleigh  (Hotels  :  Cleave,  Temperance)  is  the  station  3 
miles  farther  up,  for  which  from  the  high  road,  a  mile  out 
of  Bovey  Tracey,  one  must  turn  down  to  the  left  for  a  bridge 
over  the  stream,  that  might  also  have  been  crossed  at  the 
station.  From  Lustleigh  also,  of  late  years,  regular  excur- 
sions have  been  run  to  Dartmoor  in  connection  with  the 
mid-day  train.  Its  lion  is  the  Cleave,  a  hollow  in  the 
heights  that  rise  upon  the  course  of  the  Bovey  to  the  west 
of  the  village.  The  Church  is  an  ancient  one  with  some 
interesting  remains,  and  a  good  screen,  such  as  is  a  frequent 
feature  of  churches  about  Dartmoor. 

Lustleigh  Cleave  may  be  reached  in  half  an  hour's  walk  from 
the  station  (but  most  pedestrians  will  take  longer)  by  the  path 
along  the  line,  then  between  the  two  hotels  to  the  open  space 
before  the  Church,  whence  our  goal  is  very  visible  ;  here  go  down 
hill,  taking  the  lane  to  the  right  beyond  a  smithy,  and  at  once 
turning  up  by  a  Baptist  chapel.  A  very  Devonshire  lane  leads 
up  through  a  farm  to  the  wild  glen,  above  which  the  ridge  bristles 
with  crags,  boulders,  and  rocky  piles,  forming  a  scene  that  has 
been  compared  to  the  famous  Lynton  Valley  of  Rocks.  Two 
logan-stones  here  are  known  as  the  Nutcrackers,  by  which  a  path 
runs  on  to  Horsham  Steps,  where  the  stream  almost  vanishes 
among  masses  of  granite.  Across  the  glen  will  be  seen  the  tower 
of  Manaton  Church,  the  centre  of  a  picturesque  hamlet  (inn),  some 
3  miles  from  Lustleigh,  if  one  could  go  straight  to  it,  but  a  little 
more  by  the  track  over  the  north  side  of  the  glen  and  round  by 
Horsham  Steps.  The  wooded  rocks  of  Manaton  Tor  behind  should 
be  climbed  for  the  view,  opposite  which  will  be  noticed  the  tall 
pile  of  granite  rocks  known  as  Bowerman's  Nose,  so  like  a  human 
figure  that  it  has  been  taken  for  a  Druidical  idol.  Beyond  the 
latter  Hound's  Tor  is  crowned  by  what  seem  ruined  walls  of  rocks  ; 
and  thence  to  the  south  are  seen  the  masses  of  Hay  Tor. 

A  good  mile  south  of  Manaton  a  wooded  ravine  contains  the 
much  visited  Becky  Falls,  a  most  picturesquely  broken  cascade, 
from  which  it  is  about  4  miles  to  the  station  at  Bovey  Tracey, 
and  as  far  back  to  Lustleigh. 

Over  the  heights  east  of  Lustleigh,  also,  a  fine  walk  may  be 
taken  to  the  course  of  the  Beadon  Brook,  then  on  to  the  sheets  of 
the  Torquay  Reservoirs,  beyond  which  another  hour  would  lead 
to  Ashton  station  in  the  Teign  Valley  (p.  62). 

From  Lustleigh,  between  lofty  green  heights,  the  railway 


MORETON    HAMPSTEAD  163 

climbs  up  to  Moreton  Hampstead,  setting  down  its  passengers 
below  the  old  Cburch. 

Moreton  Hampstead  (Hotels  :  TVhite  Hart,  White  Horse) 
is  a  little  market  town  of  some  two  to  three  thousand  people, 
with  Morton  (Moortown)  for  its  week-day  name.  It  is  prettily 
and  airily  situated  on  the  east  edge  of  the  moor,  among 
partly  reclaimed  heights.  The  road  coming  in  from  Exeter 
and  from  Newton  Abbot  enters  by  the  Church,  and  a  little 
beyond,  at  the  central  knot  of  ways  (one  coming  up  from 
the  station,  below),  forks  left  for  Two  Bridges,  right  for 
Chagford  and  Okehampton. 

The  Church  has  no  special  interest  beyond  its  conspicuous 
position  and  some  tablets,  one  of  which  reminds  us  that  this  was 
the  birthplace  of  George  Bidder,  the  "calculating  boy,"  who 
differed  from  other  precocious  arithmeticians  in  carrying  his  talent 
usefully  into  after  life.  On  the  east  side  of  the  church  is  a  public 
park  called  the  Sentry,  i.e.  "Sanctuary,"  in  which  by  the  church- 
yard wall  stand  the  remains  of  an  ancient  cross,  and  a  vigorous 
but  venerable  elm-tree,  whose  branches  were  formerly  so  trimmed 
and  disposed  as  to  support  a  platform  for  dancers.  The  musicians 
were  perched  up  in  the  higher  bouglis,  and  the  dancers  ascended 
to  their  leaf-embowered  salon  by  means  of  a  ladder.  This  tree 
and  the  neighbourhood  generally  are  renowned  in  Mr.  Blackmore's 
Christowell.  The  arcade  of  the  17th-century  Almshouse  below 
the  church  is  also  noticeable. 

The  chief  excursion  to  be  taken  from  Moreton  is  by 
the  coaches  running  over  the  moorland  route  traced  above. 
There  are  many  pleasant  rambles  around  it  in  a  half  wild 
country  of  bold  hill  and  dale. 

The  way  on  the  north  of  the  church  goes  up  to  Mardon  Down 
(1170  feet),  half  an  hour's  walk,  on  which  are  a  Hut  Circle  and 
the  site  of  a  "Giant's  Grave."  Over  this  one  can  descend  into 
the  Teign  Valley,  and  by  it  in  a  few  devious  miles  come  down  to 
the  railway  whose  present  terminus  is  at  Ashton  (from  Newton 
Abbot),  but  which  should  soon  be  pushed  on  to  Exeter  (p.  52). 

The  by-road  turning  south,  just  beyond  that  coming  up  to  the 
hotel  from  the  station,  leads  in  a  couple  of  crooked  miles  to  North 
Bovey,  whose  high  perched  church  looks  over  the  Bovey  valley. 
Thence  a  few  miles'  vi^alk  takes  us  on  southward  to  the  charms  of 
LiLstleigh  Cleave,  Manaton,  the  Becky  Falls,  etc.  (p.  162). 


1 64  DARTMOOR 

The  road  going  out  north-westward  to  Chagford  has  soon  a 

branch  on  the  right,  where  a  post  directs  to  Dartmoor  View.  This 
is  the  name  of  a  lodging-house,  but  by  this  way  the  curious  square 
guide-posts  of  the  district  would  keep  us  from  losing  the  road  to 
Drewsteignton,  which,  down  the  steep  descent  of  CranhrooJc  Castle, 
brings  us  over  Fingle  Bridge  (see  below),  or  one  might  turn  left 
to  Chagford  from  the  height  where  it  comes  into  view. 

There  are  several  ways  to  Chagford  by  the  winding  lanes  that 
make  the  beauty  of  this  country.  The  main  road  (5  miles)  takes  a 
bend  by  Easton,  which  the  pedestrian  may  save  by  the  straighter 
and  rougher  way  going  off  left,  at  a  white  cottage,  two  miles  out. 
This  way  reaches  Chagford  by  the  Church  ;  the  other  comes  in 
past  the  Teign  Bridge  and  the  Moor  Park  Hotel. 


CHAGFORD. 

Hotels  :  Moor  Park,  Globe,  Three  Crowns,  King's  Arms,  etc. 
Pensions  :  Meldon  Hall,  Quarries,  etc. 

This  place — for  the  present  disappointed  of,  or,  as  its 
warmest  admirers  might  say,  delivered  from,  a  proposed 
railway  branch — is  reached  by  omnibus  three  times  a  day 
from  Moreton  Hampstead  Station  (G.  W.  R.),  and  by  less 
frequent  conveyances  meeting  certain  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  trains 
(see  time-tables)  at  the  more  distant  stations  of  Okehampton 
and  Yeoford.  Loftily  placed  against  a  background  of  moor, 
surrounded  by  mingled  charms  of  highland  and  lowland 
scenery,  it  stands  high  among  the  choice  resorts  of  Devon, 
its  chief  attraction  being  the  upper  waters  of  the  Teign, 
here  a  romantic  stream,  with  grand  gorges  both  above  and 
below  Chagford.  This  was  the  home  of  Mr.  Perrott,  the 
well-known  Dartmoor  guide,  whose  sons  are  still  ready  to 
accompany  strangers  into  out-of-the-way  nooks,  and  to 
supply  them  with  advice  and  tackle  for  angling,  which  on 
the  Upper  Teign  is  free. 

The  Church  is  a  stately  15th  century  one,  with  stained  glass, 
brasses,  and  an  Elizabethan  monument.  In  the  porch  of  the  Three 
Crowns,  close  by,  young  Sydney  Godolphin  was  killed  in  a  hot 
fight  of  the  Civil  War,  which  raged  up  to  this  secluded  spot. 
There  are  some  other  old  buildings  in  the  place,  such  as  the 
Church  House,  now  a  school ;  but  the  thatched  mill  so  often 
sketched  no  longer  exists  except  on  canvas. 


THE   TEIGN    VALLEY  165 

Here  we  are  in  the  midst,  not  only  of  fine  scenery,  but 
of  traces  from  the  pre-historic  past  which  make  Chagford  a 
centre  for  the  antiquarian  as  well  as  for  artistic  visitors. 

Fingle  Bridge,  about  5  miles  down  the  Teign,  is  the  chief 
lion  of  the  neighbourhood.  For  this  cross  the  river  by  the 
bridge  below  Moor  Park  Hotel.  On  the  wooded  hill  above 
the  left  side  peeps  out  a  Belvidere  Tower,  that  may  be 
reached  from  Eushford  Mill,  sl  little  farther  on,  where  also 
one  can  take  the  lower  path  by  the  river.  On  the  road 
presently  comes  Sandy  Park,  with  its  inn  and  a  way  leading 
down  to  the  bridge  for  Easton.  The  road  goes  on  to 
Drewsteignton  (see  below),  beyond  which  a  turning,  right, 
leads  to  the  bridge  ;  but  the  pedestrian  has  a  choice  of  two 
paths  near  the  river. 

The  gorge  is  best  gained  by  holding  on  the  road  for  about 
two  miles,  to  where  it  turns  away  from  the  river  over  a  level 
stretch,  then  at  the  next  rise,  just  across  a  little  stream,  a  path 
doubles  back  over  rough  land  to  a  wicket  gate.  Thus  one  mounts 
to  the  Hunter's  Path  along  the  top  of  the  gorge,  on  this  side 
heather  clad  and  crowned  with  firs,  while  the  other  is  mantled 
with  the  copsewood  of  Whyddon  Park.  The  lower  path  will  be 
seen  below.  The  windings  of  the  river  make  a  fine  sight  from  the 
upper  path,  on  which  comes  a  reputed  logan  -  stone.  After 
following  this  for  a  mile  one  comes  into  sight  of  the  lonely  bridge, 
and  can  descend  to  the  lower  path,  or  keeping  on  above  the 
wooded  bank,  and  some  little  way  up  the  side  valley,  may  turn 
less  abruptly  down  into  the  lane  from  Drewsteignton,  which  crosses 
the  bridge. 

This  picturesque  old  bridge  has  not  a  dwelling  in  sight,  buried 
as  it  is  in  the  deep  gorge  of  the  Teign.  Above,  on  the  left  bank, 
rises  Prestonbury,  and  on  the  right  Cranbrook  Castle,  both  the 
sites  of  ancient  camps,  about  1000  feet  high.  Lower  down,  2  miles, 
comes  another  height,  called  Wooston  Castle.  All  these  offer 
steep  scrambles  and  fine  views. 

A  rough  path  down  the  river,  or  road  on  the  heights  above, 
lead  on  in  about  half-a-dozen  miles  to  the  Teign  Valley  railway, 
the  nearest  village  being  DuTisford,  about  5  miles  from  Fingle 
Bridge  (p.  52). 

Across  the  bridge,  the  way  mounting  south  through 
the  woods  of  Cranbrook  Castle  has  a  guide-post  at  the  top 
showing  how  to  turn  left  for  Dunsford,  right  for  Moreton 


166  ^  DARTMOOR 

Ham'pstead,  here  about  3  miles  off.  On  the  latter  way  soon 
comes  another  post,  where  the  right  fork  would  take  us  by 
this  side  of  the  river  back  to  Chagford,  now  in  view  against 
its  background  of  moorland  slope. 

The  lane  northwards  from  the  bridge  leads  up  to  the 
road  we  left,  where  a  little  nearer  Chagford  comes  Drews- 
teignton,  with  its  high  perched  Church  and  "  Druid  Inn." 

Over  2  miles  west  of  this,  and  rather  farther  north  from 
Chagford,  are  Bradmere  Pool,  and  near  it  the  Spinster's 
Bock,  notable  as  the  only  cromlech  left  standing  in  Devon, 
which  indeed  fell  down,  but  was  restored  in  1862,  This 
monument  is  close  to  Shilstone  Farm,  between  the  road 
leading  west  from  Drewsteignton  to  JVhyddon  Down,  and 
the  high  road  from  Moreton  Hampstead  that  farther  on 
converges  with  it. 

Behind  Chagford  there  are  beautiful  walks  on  to  Dart- 
moor, which  opens  little  more  than  a  mile  off,  reached  by 
approaches  oddly  named  Holy  Street  and  Featherbed  Lane. 
On  this  side  we  go  up  the  Teign,  here  dividing  into  north 
and  south  branches,  near  a  perforated  tolmen  stone.  Be- 
tween them  rises  Castor  {alias  Kes  Tor)  (1433  feet),  on  the 
top  of  which  is  the  largest  Dartmoor  rock  basin,  that  has  had 
to  be  railed  in  to  prevent  sheep  from  falling  into  it. 

Beyond  Castor  can  be  traced  for  2  miles  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable groups  of  antiquities,  remains  of  stone  avenues  stretching 
from  Fernworthy  Circle  near  the  south  branch  (not  far  from  the 
Greywethers  which  we  visited  on  the  way  to  Moreton  Hampstead, 
p.  151)  to  Scorhill  Circle  on  the  North  Teign,  where  some  two 
dozen  stones  still  stand  to  make  the  finest  of  such  enclosures  on 
the  moor.  This  is  usually  spoken  of  as  the  Gidleigh  Group,  from 
its  vicinity  to  the  tiny  village  of  Gidleigh,  2  ra.  from  Chagford 
through  the  rugged  and  leafy  gorge  of  the  river.  Here  are  a 
Church  and  the  relics  of  a  Norman  Castle  to  be  visited,  as  well  as 
beautiful  bits  on  the  river.  The  Park,  we  understand,  is  closed 
to  strangers,  but  from  the  Puggie  or  Pixie  stone  on  the  road  to  Gid- 
leigh there  is  a  view  into  its  chasm  of  wild  greenery.  Lanes  lead 
on  hence  northwards  to  the  road  for  Okehampton  ;  and  if  one 
would  venture  westward  to  Cranmere  Pool  (p.  150)  it  is  about  9 
miles  off ;  but  a  guide  is  desirable. 


ROUND    CAWSAND  167 

To  the  south  of  Chagford,  by  Meldon  Hill  (1000  feet), 
a  fairly  straight  way  leads  in  4  miles  to  the  high  road  for 
Two  Bridges,  reached  about  5  miles  out  of  Moreton.  But 
we  cannot  linger  on  all  the  truly  Devonian  lanes  of  this 
district,  which  is  rather  too  much  overshadowed  by  warnings 
to  trespassers  ;  so  let  us  take  our  way  onwards  round  the 
north-eastern  corner  of  the  moor. 

Chagford  to  Okehampton  (10  miles). — To  the  northern 
border  town  the  road  sweeps  round  cairn-crowned  Cawsand 
Beacon  (1799  feet),  one  of  the  points  which  used  to  claim 
the  dignity  of  being  monarch  of  Dartmoor.  Here  we  are 
among  scenery  and  relics  famed  in  Mr.  Baring-Gould's  John 
Herring  J  and  near  the  seat  of  the  Oxenham  family,  com- 
memorated in  Westward  Ho!  This  lies  a  mile  off,  north, 
near  South  Tawton,  with  its  fine  restored  church,  past  which, 
by  the  Taw  valley,  a  road  goes  off  to  the  lowlands. 

At  the  village  of  South  Zeal,  with  its  old  Oxenham  Inn  and  tall 
cross,  a  little  to  the  right  of  our  road,  one  has  Cawsand  (pronounced 
Cosdon)  a  good  mile  to  the  south.  Those  who  wish  to  make  their 
way  over  it  might  have  taken  a  rougher  road  north  from  Gidleigh 
by  the  fine  Church  tower  of  Throwleigh,  beyond  which  one  can 
strike  across  the  moor  to  Cawsand,  here  dotted  by  hut  circles  and 
old  stones  ;  a  bright  green  patch  of  bog  makes  a  danger  signal  on 
the  south-east  side.  In  fine  weather  the  cairn  commands  a  magni- 
ficent view  over  the  rugged  lowland  country  to  the  north,  as  on 
the  heights  of  Dartmoor,  and  southward  to  the  sea. 

Beyond  Cawsand  is  struck  the  Taw,  crossing  the  high 
road  at  the  picturesque  village  of  Sticklepath  {Taw 
River  Hotel),  well  known  to  anglers,  with  its  Lady  Well  and 
mysteriously  inscribed  stone,  which  marks  the  edge  of  the 
moor.  This  also  makes  a  good  point  for  the  ascent  of 
Cawsand,  and  beautiful  rambles  can  be  taken  both  up  and 
down  the  river,  and  over  heights  scarred  by  the  signs  of 
former  mining  activity.  The  traveller  on  wheels  now  bears 
westward  round  the  moorland  edge  (a  little  over  3  miles  to 
Okehampton),  but  the  free  foot  may  turn  aside  for  a  more 
arduous  course. 

At  least  one  should  go  a  mile  or  two  up  Belstone  Cleave,  through 
which  the  Taw  comes  down  to  Sticklepath.     Where  it  makes  a 


168  DARTMOOR 

bold  bend  north,  2  miles  north-west  of  Cawsand,  above  the  left 
bank,  stands  Belstone,  nearly  1000  feet  high,  a  village  with  an 
ancient  Church  and  a  small  Inn,  more  prosperous  once  through  its 
abandoned  mine.  To  the  south  of  this  stretches  a  line  of  tors 
dividing  the  Taw  from  the  East  Okement.  On  the  west  side  of 
the  ridge,  a  sliort  mile  south  of  Belstone,  is  the  small  circle  called 
the  Nine  Stones,  to  which  is  attached  that  oft-repeated  legend  of 
maidens  turned  to  stone  for  dancing  on  Sunday.  Both  history 
and  arithmetic  seem  at  fault  here,  for  the  stones  number  sixteen, 
and  surely,  when  such  legends  grew  up,  going  to  a  dissenting 
chapel  would  count  as  a  more  serious  offence  than  Sunday  dancing. 
Descending  into  the  East  Okement  glen  (p.  169)  one  might  hence 
follow  it  down  to  Okehampton,  the  less  adventurous  course  being 
to  take  lanes  above  from  Belstone,  or  a  short  mile  of  road  leading 
direct  into  the  highway  2|  miles  out  of  Okehampton. 

When  the  rivers  are  not  in  flood,  the  pedestrian  should  find  no 
difficulty  in  holding  round  the  edge  of  the  moor  from  Chagford 
to  Okehampton,  having  always  the  choice  of  bearing  right  to  come 
down  into  the  high  road. 


-     OKEHAMPTON 

Hotel :  White  Hart,  Plume  of  Feathers,  Meecham's  Temperance,  etc. 

This  is  a  place  of  about  the  same  size  as  those  we  have 
just  visited  on  the  other  sides  of  Dartmoor,  and  one  which 
by  no  means  deserves  the  ill  words  Charles  Kingsley  throws 
it  in  some  fit  of  cross  humour.  High  above,  on  the  very 
edge  of  the  moor,  stands  the  railway  station  {Refreshment 
room),  from  which  we  look  down  on  the  town,  displayed 
perhaps  more  picturesquely  than  healthily  in  a  hollow  below. 
On  the  long  slopes  between,  however,  are  growing  up  airily- 
placed  houses,  showing  how  Okehampton  prospers  as  a  resort 
for  strangers  and  sojourners,  among  whom  anglers  are  well 
represented.  As  in  the  case  of  Tavistock,  let  us  remember 
that  this  valley,  where  the  West  and  East  Okement  meet  so 
eagerly,  is  higher  above  the  sea  than  might  be  supposed. 
Prominent  among  its  woods,  just  below  the  town,  is  the 
modern  mansion  of  Oaklands.  The  Oke  in  the  name  of 
these  rivers  is  of  different  origin,  understood  to  be  an  alias 
of  the  often  recurring  Exe,  Axe,  Usk,  etc.  Okehampton  is, 
or  used  to  be,  noted  for  its  "  Christmas  wife  market." 


OKEHAMPTON  169 

Descending  to  the  main  street  by  a  long  zigzag  road,  we 
find  here  a  Chapel -of- Ease  so  dignified  that  it  might  be 
taken  for  the  Parish  Church,  which  stands  on  the  hill 
opposite,  approached  by  a  fine  beech  Avenue.  Both 
buildings  are  chiefly  modern,  the  old  church  having  been 
destroyed  by  fire,  all  but  the  tower.  The  thoroughfare 
formed  by  the  junction  of  roads  up  the  river  and  down 
from  Chagford,  at  the  new  church  broadens  into  a  little 
Market  Place,  where  are  the  chief  shops  and  hotels,  and 
on  the  left  an  Arcade  running  across  into  the  way  from 
the  station.  Across  the  West  Okement,  at  the  farther  end, 
goes  out  the  road  to  Tavistock.  Below  the  station  the 
steep  slopes  of  the  East  Okement  hardly  needed  laying  out 
to  be  a  fine  Public  Garden. 

The  best  rambles  on  to  the  moor  are  made  by  the  course 
of  these  two  rivers  and  on  the  heights  between  them.  In 
summer  ocasional  driving  trips  are  run  from  the  hotel. 

Up  the  East  Okement  one  gets  almost  at  once  into  a  wild  glen, 
crossed  by  a  viaduct  to  the  east  of  the  station.  This  may  be 
gained  from  the  Public  Garden,  or  by  a  path  going  off  at  the 
Masonic  Hall  on  the  way  down  from  the  station.  About  2  miles 
up,  stepping-stones  will  be  found  below  Halstock  on  the  left  bank, 
where  the  wooded  course  of  the  river  makes  a  pretty  "water-slide," 
and  the  Moor  Brook  comes  down  through  a  deep  cleave.  Above 
the  right  bank  is  Belstone  (p.  168),  from  which  one  might  descend 
into  the  Taw  Yalley  and  down  to  the  road  at  Sticklepath  (p.  167), 
a  round  of  some  7  miles.  Who  is  not  afraid  of  boggy  bottoms 
might  follow  the  East  Okement  due  south  to  its  source  on 
Okement  Hill  (1875  feet),  about  2  miles  to  the  north  of 
Cranmere  Pool  (p.  150),  and  where  Steeperton  Tor  (1740  feet),  to 
the  north-east,  guides  us  to  the  Taw,  wliich  runs  only  a  mile  or 
two  east  of  the  Okement  Glen. 

The  West  Okement  at  first  offers  a  less  arduous  course.  Half 
a  mile  up  it,  on  the  left  bank,  stand  the  ivy-clad  ruins  of  Oke- 
hampton  Castle  on  a  wooded  knoll,  a  square  keep  six  centuries  old, 
and  remains  of  later  buildings,  the  chapel  being  in  the  best 
preservation.  A  small  charge  is  made  for  admission.  It  may  be 
reached  by  the  high  road  following  the  river  on  the  same  side,  and 
by  turning  down  the  bank  through  the  wood,  or  by  a  path  on  the 
other  side  crossing  a  bridge. 

Holding  on  up  the  river  for  a  couple  of  miles,  one  comes  to  the 
gorge  formed  by  the  Meldon  Viaduct  of  the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.,  one  of 
the  finest  among  the  defiles  by  which  the  Dartmoor  waters  escape 


170  ^  DARTMOOR 

northwards  ;  and  below  Black  Tor  the  river  is  broken  by  a  wild 
"  Island  of  Rocks."  Hence  one  might  follow  its  devious  course 
to  the  source  in  Cranmere  Pool,  for  which  Mr.  Page  recommends 
rather  the  ridge  between  the  two  Okements,  swelling  up  into  Yes 
Tor. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  "West  Okement,  above  the  town,  the 
old  Chase  of  the  Castle  is  still  known  as  Okehampton  Park,  a  wild 
slope  dotted  by  hollies  and  hawthorns,  which  here  fringes  the 
moor,  divided  from  it  by  a  wall.  Above  this  is  a  camp  for  artillery 
practice,  the  red  flags  of  which  are  not  to  be  disregarded  in  our 
wanderings,  nor  the  notices  published  through  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  times  and  places  of  danger.  Through  the  Park,  or  more 
easily,  from  the  station  by  cart  road  past  Dartmoor  Gate  to  the 
stream  at  its  foot,  it  is  4  or  5  miles  to  the  top  of  Yes  Tor  (2028  feet), 
distinguished  by  an  artillery  flagstafif.  This,  if  by  a  few  feet  not 
officially  recognised  as  the  highest  point  of  the  moor,  may  be 
practically  taken  as  such  for  the  sake  of  its  grand  outlook.  "  Like 
a  map  beneath  lies  the  whole  northern  district  of  Devon,  dotted 
with  villages,  each  clustering  about  a  grey  church  tower."  The 
culminating  point  is  High  Willhayes  (2039  feet),  a  projection  of 
Yes  Tor,  a  short  mile  to  the  south,  crowned  by  a  beacon  like  a 
round  tower,  from  which  there  is  a  prospect  over  the  boggy  heart 
of  Dartmoor,  Cranmere  Pool  being  about  3  miles  off  to  the  south- 
east. Two  miles  south-west  would  take  one  over  the  West 
Okement,  then  the  ridge  of  Amicomhe  Hill  (1920  feet),  to  the  Peat 
Works  behind  Great  Links  Tor  (p.  172),  from  which  a  mineral 
railway  line  makes  a  safe  if  rather  devious  guide  (5  miles)  down  to 
Bridestowe,  whose  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  station  lies  about  3  miles  due 
west. 

Down  the  Okement  from  the  town  there  is  a  lovely  walk  on  the 
left  bank  through  the  grounds  of  Oaklands,  if  one  can  get  leave, 
and  this  may  be  continued  to  Brightley  Bridge  (2  miles),  where 
the  high  road  crosses  from  the  right  bank.  Near  the  bridge  is 
a  fragment  of  Brightley  Priory,  whose  inmates  migrated  to  the 
richer  Forde  Abbey,  near  Axminster. 

We  must  return  presently  to  Okehampton  for  an  account 
of  its  railway  communications  ;  but  first  let  us  complete  our 
circuit  of  Dartmoor  by  going  on  to  Lydford,  1 0  miles  by  road 
or  rail.  This  is  such  a  scattered  place  that  Bridestowe 
(pron.  Briddistow)  station  is  as  near  the  Okehampton  end  of 
it  as  its  own  station,  the  latter  a  mile  beyond  the  other  end, 
close  to  the  famous  glen  of  the  river.  The  high  road  to 
Tavistock  leaves  Lydford  a   little  on  the  right ;  one   must 


LYDFORD  171 

turn  down  from  the  moor  edge  at  the  Dartmoor  Inn ;  then 
through  Lydford,  one  can  take  another  way  to  Tavistock  by 
Brent  Tor  (p.  138). 

LYDFORD 

Manor  Hotel,  near  the  station ;  Castle,  in  the  village ;  Lydford  House,  nearer 
Bridestowe.  There  are  other  small  inns  and  lodgings  much  run  upon  in 
summer. 

This  village,  township,  group  of  hamlets,  we  hardly 
know  how  to  call  it,  only  needs  more  accommodation  to 
become  a  popular  health  resort,  being  agreeably  situated 
several  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  where  cultivated  land 
and  woods  begin  to  mingle  with  the  wilds  of  the  moor,  one 
of  whose  many  beautiful  streams  gives  Lydford  its  name. 
In  Saxon  times  it  was  a  walled  town  with  a  mint,  and  till 
Stuart  days  retained  some  degree  of  importance,  as  the 
parish  that  included  the  whole  of  Dartmoor  Forest,  with 
the  largest  acreage  (over  50,000)  and  the  thinnest  population 
(3000)  of  any  parish  in  England.  Traces  of  the  Lyhe-ioay, 
by  which  corpses  were  brought  across  the  moor  to  its  church, 
may  still  be  found.  Church-going  is  now  facilitated  by 
chapelries  at  Princetown  and  elsewhere,  but  the  mother 
parish  still  claims  allegiance  as  far  as  Dartmeet,  16  miles 
away. 

As  has  been  already  hinted,  the  village  is  scattered 
over  some  two  miles  about  the  course  of  the  Lyd,  having 
its  centre  a  mile  or  more  from  the  station,  on  a  road 
from  Brent  Tor  running  on  to  Okehampton,  which,  at  the 
farther  end,  joins  the  high  road  coming  through  St.  Mary 
Tavy.  This  central  point  is  distinguished  by  the  Castle 
and  the  Church.  The  former,  now  reduced  to  a  hollow 
square  tower  mouldering  upon  an  artificial  mound,  was 
founded  soon  after  the  Conquest,  and  converted  by 
Edward  I.  into  the  Stannary  Prison  of  Devonshire. 
Until  the  last  century  it  was  still  made  use  of  for  this 
purpose,  though  much  defaced  and  shattered  in  1650. 
The  edicts  of  the  Stannary  Court  partook  to  a  consider- 
able extent  of  the  characteristics  of  Judge  Lynch,  so  that 
"Lydford     Law",    became     as     notorious     as     "Jedburgh 


172  ^  DARTMOOR 

Justice."  Judge  Jeffreys  held  here  one  of  his  Black 
Assizes,  and  the  legend  runs  that  the  court-room  is  still 
haunted  by  his  spirit  in  the  guise  of  a  black  pig. 

The  old  Early  English  Church  is  principally  noticeable 
for  the  simplicity  of  its  interior,  its  weatherworn  aspect, 
and  the  noble  prospects  it  commands.  There  is  a  quaint 
professionally  worded  epitaph  on  the  tomb  (close  to  the 
south  door)  of  George  Boutleigh,  a  watchmaker. 

From  the  church  we  may  make  our  way  to  Lydford 
Bridge^  a  single  arch  of  grey  stone  flung  across  a  dark 
chasm  80  feet  in  depth,  at  the  bottom  of  which  the 
stream  almost  disappears  among  black  rocks  and  greenery. 
Below,  the  ravine  widens,  opening  out  into  a  wooded  glen, 
once  the  haunt  of  the  Guhbiris,  a  band  of  outlaws,  who,  a 
century  earlier,  played  much  the  same  part  as  the  Doones  in 
North  Devon. 

The  grand  Lydford  Gorge,  which  attracts  many  visitors  from 
Plymouth  and  other  towns,  is  enclosed,  the  upper  part  being  in 
private  grounds,  the  lower  in  those  of  the  Manor  Hotel  (close  to 
Lydford  Station).  Here  a  charge  of  2d.  is  made  for  entrance 
to  this  part  of  the  glen  with  its  fine  Cascade.  Beyond,  on 
Mondays  only,  strangers  are  allowed  to  ascend  some  2  or  3  miles 
to  the  head  of  the  gorge,  passing  a  series  of  falls  known  as  Kit's 
Steps.  The  whole  walk  is  exceedingly  fine,  and  should  be  more 
famous.  Along  a  cavernous  ravine  the  stream  forces  its  way 
by  a  succession  of  boiling  caldrons,  creamy  rushes,  and  deep  pebbly 
pools,  through  rocky  throats  choked  by  driftwood  and  rotten 
trunks,  between  shady  steeps  richly  lined  with  moss  and  ivy, 
bright  hart's-tongues  and  other  ferns  that  glint  green  and  gold 
where  they  are  touched  by  the  sunbeams  here  and  there  struggling 
into  the  abyss.  The  narrow  path  runs  now  close  to  the  water's 
side,  then  winding  along  a  slippery  ledge  above,  where  a  fall 
might  send  one  down  between  broken  jaws  of  rock  into  the  torrent 
scarcely  visible  below.  This  walk  is  indeed  not  to  be  recommended 
to  those  who  cannot  trust  their  heads  and  feet ;  else,  few  who 
have  time  to  spare  will  regret  taking  it  both  ways.  The  entrance 
at  the  top  (on  Mondays)  is  by  the  lodge  of  Lyd  House  ;  and 
descending,  we  can  come  out  by  the  bridge,  or  through  the  hotel 
enclosure,  from  the  bottom  of  which  a  steeply  winding  path  takes 
us  up  to  the  railway,  giving  fine  views  and  bringing  home  to 
us  the  general  height  of  this  upland.  Excursion  coaches  from 
Tavistock  and  Okehampton  stop  at  the  hotel. 

From  the  head  of  the  Gorge  we  may  easily  make  our  way  on  to 


ABOUT    LYDFORD  173 

Dartmoor,  here  bordered  by  the  upper  road  from  Okehampton 
to  Tavistock.  The  stream  itself  will  be  our  guide  to  the  base  of 
Great  Links  Tor  (1900  feet),  at  one  time  given  out  as  the  highest 
point  on  the  moor,  but  that  honour  belongs  to  High  WiUhays 
(p.  170),  3  miles  north-east  of  it.  Behind  the  inn,  at  the  junction 
of  the  upper  and  lower  roads,  a  track  takes  us  up  to  Great  Linx 
Tor  in  an  hour  or  so's  easy  walking,  or  to  Little  Linx  Tor,  on  to 
that  other  adjacent  point,  Braitor,  on  which  a  cross  was  erected  by 
the  late  Mr.  Widgery,  the  popular  artist,  who  made  his  summer 
quarters  at  Lydford,  and  devoted  himself  to  Dartmoor,  of  which 
he  painted  several  thousand  bits,  frequently  bought  on  the  spot 
by  passing  visitors. 

From  Bridestowe  we  might  follow  the  rails  laid  up  to  the  peat 
works,  5  miles  above  on  the  moor.  Three  miles  west  of  Lydford 
rises  Haxe  Tor  (1744  feet),  over  which  there  is  a  grand  walk  into 
Ta^  Cleave  (p.  137). 

On  the  opposite  side  of  Lydford,  Brent  Tor  (p.  138)  lies  not 
3  miles  from  the  station  ;  and  the  falling  land  settles  down  into 
fields  beautifully  broken  by  woods,  glens,  and  patches  of  moor. 

From  Lydford  pleasant  cycling  or  walking  trips  may  be 
made  in  a  rough  quadrangle  of  some  18  miles,  extending  to 
the  north-west,  enclosed  within  the  lines  of  the  G.  W.  R.  and 
the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  to  Launceston,  which  on  all  four  sides 
form  the  boundary  of  this  area,  watered  by  streams  flowing 
down  to  the  Lyd.  We  regret  that  space  does  not  allow  us  to 
deal  fully  with  a  corner  too  much  neglected  both  by  tourists 
and  guide-books.  A  central  point  to  make  for  is  the  fine 
Church  of  Bratton  Clovelly,  north  of  which,  across  the 
ridge  of  Broadbury,  one  could  gain  Ashbury,  or  hold  on  by 
the  ridge  to  Halwill  Junction  and  Holsworthy  (see  below). 

[We  have  already  shown  (p.  140)  the  continuation  of  the 
G.  W.  R.  from  Lydford  to  Launceston.  To  reach  this  point 
the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  branch  fetches  a  much  longer  compass 
from  Okehampton,  as  shown  below.] 


PLYMOUTH  TO  EXETER  AND  NORTH  DEVON 
L.  &  S.-W.  R. 

Let  us  conclude  this  section  with  some  sketch  of  the 
L.  &  S.-W.  R.  route  passing  round  the  north  edge  of 
Dartmoor.      Most   of   this   has   already    been    followed    in 


174  DARTMOOR 

portions,  to  Tavistock  (p.  134)  and  to  Lydford  (p.  140). 
Thence  it  finely  skirts  the  moor  to  Okehampton^  a  little 
short  of  which  one  should  look  out  for  the  crossing  of  the 
Meldon  Viaduct  (p.  169).  At  Okehampton  goes  off  the 
branch  into  Cornwall. 

Okehampton  to  Launceston  and  Bude. — The  branch 
recrosses  the  viaduct,  diverging  to  the  right  and  rising  till 
it  commands  a  panorama  of  the  country  between  Dartmoor 
and  the  Cornish  heights,  of  which,  the  most  conspicuous  is 
Brown  Willy.  It  passes  Ashbury,  near  which  is  the  Mid 
Devon  Hotel  and  Health  Resort,  well  situated  for  hunting, 
fishing,  and  bracing  air.  At  Halwill  Junction  it  again 
divides,  the  left  branch  for  Launceston,  the  right  for 
Holsworthy  and  Bude. 

Holsworthy  (Hotels  :  Stanhope  Arw.s,  White  Hart)  is 
best  known  to  tourists  as  the  place  where  they  once  had 
to  take  coach  for  Bude  in  Cornwall.  It  has  a  Perpendicular 
Church,  with  some  wood  carving,  an  ancient  font,  and  a 
good  organ.  The  Labyrinth,  a  remarkable  maze  of  beech 
trees,  was  the  work  of  Earl  Stanhope,  the  lord  of  the  manor. 
The  town  is  4  miles  from  the  Tamar,  and  a  good  point  from 
which  to  explore  the  upper  reaches  of  this  beautiful  river, 
forming  the  boundary  of  Cornwall.  On  the  other  side,  a 
little  farther  away,  runs  the  Torridge,  which  has  its  source 
close  to  the  Tamar's,  so  that  a  remarkable  physical  feature 
of  this  country  is  the  watershed  between  the  English  and 
the  Bristol  Channels  coming  so  far  north  as  almost  to 
overlook  the  latter. 

It  is  about  20  miles  from  Okehampton  to  Holsworthy ; 
and  10  miles  more  by  the  former  coach  route  brings  one  to 
the  sea  at  Bude. 

This  route  is  crossed  at  Holsworthy  by  a  high  road 
between  North- West  and  South-West  Devon,  on  which  it  is 
14  hilly  miles  to  Launceston,  and  24  more  through  Cornwall 
to  Plymouth.  In  the  other  direction,  18  miles,  across  the 
long  bend  made  by  the  Torridge,  bring  one  to  Bideford,  and 


UPPER   PORTION, 


PLYMOUTH  TO  EXETER  AND  NORTH  DEVON      175 

9  more  to  Barnstaple,   through  which   Ilfracomhe  could   be 
gained  in  a  total  of  39  miles  from  Holsworthy. 

The  Holsworthy-Bideford  road,  crossing  Holsworthy  Beacon, 
3  miles  out,  brings  one  in  7  miles  to  Woodford  Bridge  (Inn)  on 
the  upper  course  of  the  Torridge,  which  would  be  a  guide  to  lovely 
but  little  visited  scenery.  Pedestrians  might  follow  this  down 
for  a  few  miles,  passing  between  Shebbeare  above  the  left  bank, 
where  there  is  a  college  of  the  Bible  Christian  or  "Bryanite" 
denomination,  so  strong  in  this  corner  of  England,  and  on  the 
other  side  Bradford  with  its  interesting  restored  Church.  Below 
Bradford,  where  the  Whiteleigh  "Water  comes  in  from  the  south, 
one  is  some  4  miles  as  the  bird  flies  from  Halwill  Junction,  farther 
by  the  winding  roads  of  this  region  ;  and  about  twice  as  far  from 
Hatherleigh  (see  below). 

A  long  projected  railway  from  Okehampton  to  Torrington 
would  open  up  the  beautiful  and  secluded  country  between 
them ;  but  this  seems  to  hang  fire.  In  the  meanwhile  a 
coach  runs  daily  from  Okehampton  Station  to  Hatherleigh, 
9  miles  by  road  down  the  Okement,  a  little  nearer  by  the 
steeper  way  which  goes  up  near  the  old  Church.  This 
out-of-the,-way  little  town  {George  Inn)  stands  on  a  moor, 
one  of  the  poorest  soils  in  Devon  ;  but  it  is  near  the  richer 
scenery  of  the  Torridge  valley,  down  which  runs  on  the 
road  to  Bideford  (30  miles  from  Okehampton). 

From  Okehampton  the  main  line  passes  into  less  rugged 
scenery,  crossing  the  Taw  as  it  becomes  a  lowland  stream  ; 
but  the  country  to  the  north  is  still  far  from  commonplace, 
and  the  church  towers  of  Sampford  Courtenay  and 
North  Tawton,  seen  from  the  rail,  invite  exploration  of 
its  villages.  There  are  stations  a  mile  or  two  off  for  both 
of  these,  also  at  Bow;  then  is  reached  Yeoford  Junction 
{Railway  Hotel  and  small  Refreshment  Room),  where  one  has 
to  change  and  probably  to  wait  for  the  north  Devon  trains. 
From  the  tower  of  Colebrook  Church  (the  interior  of 
which  shows  some  notable  wood-carving),  a  little  above  the 
station,  one  could  have  a  good  view  ;  and  in  the  distance 
we  get  a  last  look  at  Dartmoor.  The  main  line  goes  south 
by  Grediton  (p.  46),  and  thence  down  the  valley  of  the 
Creedy  to  that  of  the  Exe,  reached  near  Exeter. 


176  DARTMOOR 

The  road  which  goes  round  the  north  of  Dartmoor  does 
not  always  follow  the  L.  &  S.-W.  R,  (For  particulars,  see 
our  Cycling  Tables.)  From  Exeter  it  strikes  across  a  rough 
country  by  Cheriton  Gross  to  Okehampton,  thence  keeps  near 
the  railway  to  Tavistock,  but  for  the  rest  of  the  way  has  to 
avoid  the  estuary  of  the  Tavy  by  taking  the  line  of  the 
G.  W.  R.  branch  to  Tavistock  over  Roborough  Down  (p.  131), 
The  distance  thus  is  rather  over  50  miles,  as  against  41  miles 
by  Princetown,  43  by  Ashburton,  and  47  by  Totnes. 


NORTH  Di:VON 


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BARNSTAPLE  AND   ITS  APPROACHES 

Ilfracombe  is  North  Devon's  place  of  greatest  tourist 
resort,  but  its  largest  town  is  Barnstaple,  the  knot  of  all 
the  railways  to  this  coast.  We  are  bound,  then,  to  begin 
with  the  routes  to  Barnstaple,  reached  from  London  by  the 
L.  &  S.-W.  K.  and  the  G.  W.  R.  The  latter  is  the  shorter 
in  point  of  distance  ;  but  as  the  Devon  and  Somerset  Rail- 
way, connecting  its  main  line  at  Taunton  with  Barnstaple, 
is  better  off  for  picturesque  scenery  than  for  quick  trains, 
the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  route  through  Exeter  is  usually  preferred. 
Even  in  travelling  between  North  Devon  and  places  on  the 
G.  W.  R.  line,  such  as  Taunton  and  Bristol,  time-tables 
show  it  sometimes  more  expeditious  to  make  the  round  by 
Exeter,  changing  at  St.  David's,  the  same  fare  being  charged 
as  over  the  direct  Somerset  and  Devon  route.  There  is 
connection  between  the  two  lines  at  Barnstaple. 

The  G.  W.  R.  branch  from  Taunton  to  Minehead  makes 
another  approach  to  North  Devon.  The  proposed  line 
onwards  along  the  coast  of  Exmoor  has  been  scotched  by 
strong  opposition  ;  but  the  journey  is  continued  to  Lynmouth 
over  the  grand  coach  drive  through  Porlock,  which  may  best 
be  spoken  of  when  we  come  to  Lynton  (p.  204). 

Of  the  high  roads  from  Exeter  (40  miles)  and  from 
Taunton  (60  miles)  to  Barnstaple,  it  may  be  enough  to  say 
that  they  respectively  take  the  same  general  line  as  the  two 
railways  now  to  be  followed,  whose  course  will  make  it  the 
cyclist's  or  pedestrian's  own  fault  if  he  let  himself  be  tempted 
too  far  on  circumvagations ;  and  most  of  the  places  on  their 

177 


178  BARNSTAPLE 

way  are  seen  from  or  stopped  at  by  the  trains.  Once  and 
for  all,  we  may  say  that  North  Devon  roads  are  well  pro- 
vided with  guide-posts. 

EXETER   TO   BARNSTAPLE    (L.    &  S.-W.   R.) 

In  our  Exeter  section  (p.  46),  we  have  shown  how  the 
L.  &  S.-W.  R.  leaves  the  valley  of  the  Exe  to  pass  up  that  of 
the  Greedy,  then  near  Crediton,  by  the  little  Yeo,  reaches 
Yeoford  Junction  {Railway  Hotel  and  small  Refreshment 
Room),  where  the  line  to  Plymouth  (p.  175)  forks  off  round 
the  north  side  of  Dartmoor,  from  the  North  Devon  branch 
that  reaches  Barnstaple  down  the  Taw  Valley.  Usually  it  is 
for  Plymouth  that  one  has  to  change  ;  and  the  express  trains 
to  Barnstaple  have  through  carriages  for  both  Torrington  and 
Ilfracombe.  From  Exeter  to  Barnstaple  is  an  ordinary 
journey  of  between  one  and  two  hours,  the  express  service 
being  more  frequent  in  summer.  The  pleasant  country 
traversed  is  more  populous  than  it  appears,  many  of  its 
villages  lying  back  out  of  sight  or  only  to  be  surmised  by  a 
peep  of  their  square  church  towers.  The  Taw  and  its 
tributaries  make  this  a  noted  resort  of  anglers,  for  whom  and 
for  other  sportsmen  good  inn  accommodation  will  be  found 
on  the  way. 

A  couple  of  miles  beyond  Yeoford  Junction  the  first 
station  is  Oopplestone,  whose  churchyard,  on  the  right  of 
the  line,  shows  a  notable  ancient  Gross,  about  12  feet  high, 
and  decorated  with  rude  ornamental  scrolls.  On  the  other 
side  lies  Bow,  otherwise  Nymet  Tracey,  3  miles  west,  with 
an  old  Church,  not  the  only  one  said  to  have  been  founded 
by  the  Devonian  murderer  of  X  Becket.  From  this,  with  the 
churches  of  North  Tawton  and  Sampford  Courtenay  a  little  on 
the  right  of  the  road,  it  is  10  miles  west  to  Okehampton. 
Eastwards,  a  few  miles'  walk  would  bring  us  to  Sandford 
(p.  47),  whence  the  Greedy  Valley  makes  a  guide  down  to 
Exeter. 

The  next  station  is  Morchard  Road,  l|  mile.  Morchard 
Bishop  lies  2  miles  to  the  right;  and  nearer  on  the  left 


EXETER    TO    BARNSTAPLE  179 

Down  St.  Mary's  Church  shows  one  of  the  good  screens 
common  in  this  neighbourhood.  Then  comes  Lapford 
Station,  near  which  Denridge  and  Pidley,  the  Elizabethan 
seats  of  the  Radford  and  St.  Leger  families,  have  been 
converted  into  substantial  farmhouses.  Lapford  Church  has 
a  good  screen  and  bench  carvings.  Coleridge,  4  miles  left, 
has  in  its  church  a  fine  Perpendicular  screen,  and  the 
figure  of  an  armed  knight,  one  John  Evans,  d.  1514,  keeper 
of  the  Royal  Park  here. 

Next  we  reach  Eggesford  Station  {Fox  and  Hounds  Hotel), 
constructed  for  the  convenience  of  the  Earl  of  Portsmouth's 
seat  {Eggesford  House),  seen  on  the  left.  In  the  Church  are 
monuments  of  the  Chichester  family,  one  of  them  remarkably 
elaborate  and  imposing.  The  country  about  here  is  richly 
wooded  along  the  course  of  the  Taw,  which  the  railway 
follows  from  Lapford. 

[Up  the  Little  Dart,  2  miles  from  Eggesford  Station,  the 

small  market  town  Chulmleigll  stands  high,  crowned  by 

the  tower  of  its  fine  Perpendicular  church,  more  than  large 

enough  to  hold  all  the  population.     The  neighbourhood  is 

very  pleasant,  with  its  old  houses,  such  as  Colleton  Barton, 

and  the  quaint  Elizabethan  mansion,  Leigh  House.     The 

course  of  the  Little  Dart  might  be  followed  as  far  as  East 

Worlington,   by  the    ruins    of  Affeton   or  Afton    Castle, 

formerly    the     stately    stronghold    of    the     Devonshire 

Stucleys,  restored  by  Sir  George  Stucley.     There  are  some 

noticeable  memorials  in  the  Churches  both  of  East  and 

West   Worlington.     Among  other  excursions  to  be  made 

from  Chulmleigh,  Winkleigh  (Inn)  should  not  be  missed, 

where  are  a  fine  Church,  magnificently  restored  by  private 

benefaction,  and  the  sites  of  two  very  interesting  castles,] 

It  shows  how  hard-up  this  line  is  for  names,  that  its  next 

station,  South  Molton  Boad  {Fortescue  Arms  Hotel),  is  9 

miles  from  the  little  town  of  South  Molton,   lying  to  the 

north  near  the  Devon  and  Somerset  line  (p.  181).      The  road 

from  South  Molton  to  this  distant  station  opens  up  a  fine 

hilly  country,  in  which  the  Mole  and  the  Bray  unite  their 

Exmoor  streams  to  mingle  with  the  Taw  from  Dartmoor,  a 

short  way  below  its  confluence  with  the  Little  Dart. 


180  BARNSTAPLE 

The  course  of  the  Taw  now  becomes  leafily  picturesque, 
as  the  rail  keeps  beside  it  to  the  Portsmouth  Arms  Station, 
and  thence  to  that  of  Umberleigh,  named  respectively  from 
an  inn  and  a  bridge.  On  a  hill,  a  long  mile  west  of  the 
latter  station,  is  the  small  village  of  Atherington,  with  an 
Early  English  Church,  containing  some  effigies  of  the  15th 
century,  good  stained  glass,  and  a  rood-screen  that  has  been 
declared  the  finest  and  oldest  in  Devon.  The  Church  of 
Chittlehampton,  2  miles  east  of  Umberleigh  Bridge,  has 
one  of  a  group  of  remarkably  fine  Perpendicular  towers 
(cf.  p.  181). 

Continuing  along  the  course  of  the  Taw  from  Umber- 
leigh, we  pass  Chapleton  Station,  beyond  which,  on  the  left 
of  the  line,  are  the  nobly-timbered  grounds  of  Tawstock 
Court.  In  the  Park  stands  a  fine  cruciform  Church,  with  a 
chapel  containing  tombs  of  the  Bouchiers,  Opposite,  on  the 
right,  the  road  runs  through  Bishop's  Tawton,  reputed  to 
have  been  at  one  time  a  seat  of  the  Bishops  of  Devonshire, 
whose  Church  has  some  old  memorials,  coloured  glass,  and  a 
very  striking  belfry-screen.  To  the  south  of  it  rises  the 
ridge  of  Coddon  Hill,  whose  Beacon  (630  feet)  is  one  of  the 
best  view-points  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Two  miles  further  we  reach  Barnstaple  Junction,  approach- 
ing it  with  a  good  view  of  the  town  across  the  river. 


TAUNTON  TO  BARNSTAPLE  (G.  W.  R.) 

This  pretty  but  not  rapid  route  leaves  the  main  line  at 
Norton  Fitzwarren  Junction,  a  little  beyond  Taunton,  where 
also  goes  off  the  branch  to  Minehead  (p.  204).  The  Devon 
and  Somerset  Railway,  as  was  its  original  style,  keeps  for 
half  the  way  along  the  border  of  the  two  counties.  The 
first  places  passed,  Milverton  and  Wivelscombe,  lie  in  Somer- 
set, to  the  south  of  the  wild  Brendon  Hills  that  make  an 
eastward  spur  of  Exmoor  ;  and  for  the  roads  over  this  high 
ground  towards  the  coast  we  must  refer  to  our  Somerset 
Guide.  Across  the  valley  of  the  Torre,  the  next  two  stations, 
Venn  Cross  and  Morebath,  are  in  Devon,  the  latter  within 


TAUNTON    TO    BARNSTAPLE  181 

an  hour's  walk  of  Bampton  (p.  45).  Then  at  DulvertoUy 
the  line  enters  another  projection  of  Somerset,  taking  in  the 
branch  np  the  Exe  Valley  (p.  62),  by  which  Great  Western 
shareholders  might  choose  to  travel  from  Exeter  to  Barn- 
staple without  patronising  the  rival  railway. 

Dulverton,  though  in  Somerset,  must  be  mentioned  as  the 
southern  focus  of  Exmoor  travel.  Dulverton  Station  (Hotel :  Car- 
narvon Arms)  stands  near  the  edge  of  the  county,  just  above  the 
confluence  of  the  Exe  and  the  Barle.  Here  starts  in  the  summer 
season  a  coach  to  Minehead.  The  town  of  Dulverton  (Hotels  : 
Bed  Lion,  Lamb,  etc.)  is  2  miles  off  up  the  Barle,  at  the  foot  of 
finely-wooded  hills,  by  which  one  rises  on  to  Exmoor.  By  Wins- 
ford  Hill  and  Simonsbath,  with  beautiful  byways  about  the  course 
of  the  Barle,  goes  the  road  to  Lynton  (26  miles,  p.  205),  the 
former  coach  service  on  which  has  been  supplanted  by  the  Lynton 
line  from  Barnstaple  (p.  203).  Of  the  many  other  beautiful  ex- 
cursions from  Dulverton,  we  can  only  indicate  a  pedestrian  line  to 
Lynton  along  the  Devon  border  and  the  western  heights  of  Exmoor, 
dotted  with  tumuli  and  other  monuments  of  antiquity,  by  Hawk- 
ridge  to  North  Molton  Ridge,  then  to  Span  Head  (over  1600  feet), 
and  on  3  miles  north  to  Showlsborough  Castle^  thence  northwards 
as  shown  on  p.  215. 

From  the  Barle  Valley  our  railway  skirts  the  southern  spurs 
of  Exmoor  ;  passing  through  a  finely  broken  part  of  Devon, 
soon  re-entered  beyond  Dulverton.  The  first  station  here, 
on  one  of  Devon's  several  Yeo  streams,  is  for  Bishop's 
Nympton,  on  the  left,  and  Holland,  on  the  right  of  the 
line,  the  former  distinguished,  like  its  neighbours  Chiftle- 
hampto7i  (p.  180)  and  South  Molton,  by  a  remarkably  fine 
church  tower,  all  three  said  to  be  the  work  of  one  architect, 
and  compared  by  the  sobriquets  "  Length,"  "  Beauty,"  and 
"  Strength."  The  best-known  place  on  this  route  is  South 
Molton  {George  Hotel),  from  which  many  excursions  may  be 
made  to  out-of-the-way  parishes  with  interesting  churches, 
and  on  to  the  wilds  of  the  moor. 


South  Molton  lies  to  the  south  of  the  line,  and  as  we  saw 
(p.  179)  has  another  station,  South  Molton  Road,  9  miles  soutli,  on 
the  L.  and  S.-W.  R.,  with  which  we  are  now  converging.  North 
Molton,  also  with  a  notable  Church,  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
G.  W.  K. ,  about  3  miles  higher  up  the  course  of  the  Mole,  where 


182  fr  BARNSTAPLE 

we  approach  the  heights  forming  the  western  rampart  of  Exmoor  ; 
and  by  Span  Head  and  Showlsborough  Castle  (see  above)  might 
take  an  almost  straight  line  northwards  to  Lynton,  or  turn  aside 
to  the  high  road  at  Simonsbath. 

Filleigh  (the  village  nearly  2  miles  south,  beyond  Lord 
Fortescue's  well-wooded  and  watered  seat  Castle  Hill)  and 
Swimbridge  are  the  next  stations,  in  a  beautiful  country 
where  at  Tordown  was  the  home  of  the  Eev.  John  Eussell, 
the  clerical  Nimrod  of  Exmoor,  who  made  himself  so  popular 
with  all  classes,  unless,  perhaps,  bishops.  His  church  at 
Swimhridget  4  miles  out  of  Barnstaple,  contains  a  very  fine 
rood-screen,  and  among  its  monuments  a  curiously  profes- 
sional epitaph  upon  a  1 7th-century  attorney.  Thus  our  line 
approaches  the  valley  of  the  Taw,  and  reaches  Barnstaple  on 
the  right  side  of  the  river,  after  passing  through  scenery 
which,  overshadowed  as  it  is  by  Exmoor,  would  alone  make 
the  reputation  of  less-favoured  counties  for  picturesqueness, 
but  seems  more  familiar  to  sportsmen  than  to  tourists.  The 
road,  here  to  the  south  of  the  rail,  goes  by  Landkey,  which 
has  a  good  restored  Church  with  Acland  monuments  ;  then 
enters  Barnstaple  by  its  Newport  suburb. 


BARNSTAPLE 

Hotels  :  Imperial,  Royal  and  Fortescue,  Golden  Lion,  King's  Arms.   Temperance 
Hotels  :  Victoria,  Trevelyan,  Thomas',  etc. 

Distance  :  208  m.  from  London.    Population,  14,000. 

There  are  three  Railway  Stations  here.  The  Great  Western  Station  in  Victoria 
Avenue,  half  a  mile  from  the  centre  of  the  town,  is  the  station  for  Taunton, 
Bristol  and  the  North,  Bath,  and  London.  Barnstaple  Junction,  on 
the  farther  side  of  the  river,  is  the  station  for  Exeter  and  the  South- 
western Line  to  London  in  one  direction,  for  Bideford  and  Torrington  in 
the  other.  Here,  also,  the  trains  leave  for  Ilfracombe,  stopping  at  the 
Town  Station  over  the  bridge,  at  which  start  the  Lynton  trains.  By  some 
trains,  G.  W.  R.  carriages  run  through  to  and  from  Ilfracombe,  over  a 
line  connecting  the  G.  W.  R.  Station  with  the  L.  and  S.-W.  R.  Junction. 

Barnstaple  is  the  capital  of  North  Devon,  a  place  of  con- 
siderable antiquity,  well  situated  in  the  bosom  of  gentle  hills, 
where  the  sobered  Taw  begins  to  take  on  itself  the  style  of  an 
estuary.      "  The  finest  town  we  met  with  in  the  west  of 


BARNSTAPLE  183 

England,"  was  the  Rev.  W.  Gilpin's  opinion  of  it  a  century 
ago,  and  it  has  since  by  no  means  declined  in  prosperity  or 
amenity,  though  it  has  changed  its  woollen  manufacture  for 
other  industries.  The  population  gained  a  considerable 
element  of  Huguenot  refugees  after  the  Edict  of  Nantes,  whose 
transmogrified  names  still  appear  on  shop  fronts.  The  town 
takes  its  name  from  Braun,  Brannock,  or  Barum,  an  early  Irish 
saint,  his  last  alias  being  that  which  may  puzzle  strangers 
on  the  milestones  of  the  district.  The  castle  of  "  Barum's 
Market "  is  said  to  have  been  first  built  by  Athelstan,  then 
rebuilt  by  a  Norman  baron,  who  also  founded  a  priory  de- 
dicated to  St.  Mary  Magdalene.  Of  the  former  nothing 
remains  but  the  Keep  Mound,  enclosed  within  the  private 
grounds  of  a  mansion  facing  the  river  ;  the  memory  of  the 
latter  is  preserved  in  Maudlyn  Rock  Close.  The  Bridge  was 
originally  erected  in  the  thirteenth  century,  to  be  enlarged 
and  restored  in  our  own  time.  Beside  it  the  railway  bridge 
cuts  but  a  poor  figure. 

Barnstaple  Fair,  in  September,  is  the  Saturnalia  of  North 
Devon  ;  and  any  market-day  brings  a  lively  gathering  of  the 
county  folks.  Many  tourists  pass  through  the  town,  and  some 
stop,  yet  hardly  long  enough.  Barnstaple,  if  they  only  knew  it, 
makes  a  capital  centre  for  excursions,  both  by  rail  and  by  the 
coaches,  brakes,  and  other  conveyances  that  run  to  favourite  points 
in  the  season.  The  distances  to  some  of  these  are  :  Ilfracombe, 
12  m.  ;  Morthoe,  10  m. ;  Bideford,  9  m. ;  Torrington,  13  m.  ;  Lyn- 
ton,  17  m.  When  such  resorts  are  crammed  with  visitors,  com- 
fortable quarters  might  be  found  at  Barnstaple.  A  peculiarity 
here  is  the  abundance  of  Temperance  Hotel  accommodation. 
Besides  the  large  new  Victoria  Hotel  in  the  High  Street  and  the 
Trevelyan,  an  old-established  house  close  at  hand,  there  are  two 
or  three  others  of  the  same  kind  to  supply  the  place  of  boarding- 
houses. 

Nearly  all  the  town  lying  on  one  side  the  river,  the  ex- 
ploration of  it  may  best  begin  from  the  Town  Station,  beside 
which  is  Queen  Ann^s  Walk,  a  piazza,  rebuilt  in  1798,  de- 
signed as  a  West  Country  Exchange.  Adorned  with  a  statue 
of  Queen  Anne,  it  makes  a  striking  feature.  At  this  point, 
Gross  Street  leads  by  the  Post- Office  into  the  lively  High  Street 
where,  turning  to  the  right,  we  come  back  to  the  river,  and 
to  the  open  space  called  the  Square,  at  the  end  of  the  Bridge. 


184  ^  BARNSTAPLE 

Here  stands  the  Albert  Memorial,  a  clock  tower  with  drinking 
fountains.  The  G.  W.  R.  Station  is  not  far  off,  lying  back 
from  the  riverside  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town. 

Near  the  Square  will  be  found  a  remarkable  architectural 
feature,  the  Almshouses  in  Litchdon  Street,  founded  by  John 
Penrose,  mayor  of  the  town,  1627.  They  are  built  in  the 
form  of  a  quadrangle,  with  a  sort  of  cloister,  wooden-roofed, 
and  supported  on  granite  columns,  opening  out  on  the  road. 
The  chapel,  which  contains  a  portrait  of  the  founder  by 
Janssen,  is  at  one  end  of  the  cloister,  and  the  council-room 
at  the  other. 

In  Litchdon  Street,  also,  is  the  Art  Pottery,  where  the 
so-called  Barum  ware  is  made.  It  somewhat  resembles 
Doulton  ware,  with  figures  of  birds,  flowers,  etc.,  cut  into  it 
like  Italian  Sgraffito.  While  on  the  industries  of  Barnstaple, 
we  should  mention  the  Derby  lace  factory  behind  the  town, 
and  the  large  Cabinet -making  works,  which  may  be  seen 
beyond  the  railway  bridge. 

Half-way  up  the  High  Street,  in  the  other  direction,  not  far 
from  handsome  Congregational  and  Wesleyan  chapels,  we 
find  the  Parish  CJmrch,  distinguishable  by  its  quaint  steeple 
that  stands  not  quite  straight.  But  the  interior  is  finer  than 
might  be  supposed  from  this  feature  :  it  contains  many  monu- 
ments to  local  worthies,  and  the  chancel  dates  from  the  1 4th 
century.  In  the  middle  of  the  churchyard  is  a  still  older 
building,  the  Grammar  School,  originally  a  chantry  of  St. 
Anne,  now  rather  thrown  into  shade  by  a  large  elementary 
school  built  to  the  side  of  it.  Beyond  the  school,  a 
small  passage  called  "Paternoster  Row"  leads  into 
Boutport  Street,  another  of  the  main  thoroughfares,  which 
bends  round  again  into  the  High  Street. 

Close  here  are  the  Markets,  above  which  the  Guildhall 
contains  a  show  of  local  portraits,  most  of  them  painted  by 
Hudson,  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds'  teacher,  and  it  is  believed  that 
this  great  artist  himself  may  have  had  a  'prentice  hand  in  the 
work. 

The  prominent  tower,  beside  the  North  Devon  Infirmary, 
which  would  be  a  guide  towards  the  G.  W.  R.  Station,  is  that 
oiHoly  Trinity  Church,  built  1843. 


BARNSTAPLE  186 

Beyond  the  Square,  on  the  right  of  the  Dulverton  road, 
going  out  through  Newport  suburb,  is  the  Rock  Park,  named 
after  the  local  benefactor  who  presented  it.  On  the  river 
bank  this  is  edged  by  an  avenue,  which  makes  a  pleasant 
walk.  Above  the  railway  bridge  is  a  spot  where  the 
Barnstaple  youth  make  shift  to  bathe  under  difl&culties  in  the 
tidal  waters  of  the  Taw,  up  which  one  might  continue  the 
stroll  to  Bishop^s  Tawton  (p.  180). 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  from  the  Town  station, 
another  riverside  promenade  curves  round  the  site  of  the 
Castle  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yeo,  which  here  falls  into  the 
Taw.  This  is  not  the  Yeo  we  crossed  beyond  Dulverton, 
but  a  fresh  one  coming  down  from  heights  to  the  north,  up 
which  its  wooded  valley  would  be  a  guide.  The  road  to 
Lynton  (17  miles),  leaving  Barnstaple  Square,  soon  strikes 
this  valley,  parting  from  it  at  Loxhore  Gott. 

Across  the  Yeo  bridge,  one  comes  to  Pilton,  with  its  sub- 
urban park.  By  the  Church,  whose  tower  appears  on  a 
height  half  a  mile  on,  goes  out  the  road  to  Ilfracombe. 
Pilton  Church  is  noticeable  for  an  elaborate  monument,  in 
the  chancel,  to  Sir  E.  Chichester  (d.  1627),  with  kneeling 
figures  of  his  family  ;  for  its  screen  and  other  relics,  in- 
cluding an  iron  hour-glass  for  measuring  the  preacher's  dis- 
course ;  also  for  the  doggerel  inscribed  on  one  of  its  bells — 


"  Recast  by  Thomas  Taylor  and  Son, 
Who  the  best  prize  for  Church -bells  won 
At  the  Great  Ex-hi-bi-ti-on 
In  London,  1-8-5  and  one." 


There  are  some  charming  lanes  about  this  village  and  its 
prolongation  Bradiford,  through  which  one  might  keep  along 
the  uplands  westward  to  the  tower  of  Heanton  Funchardon 
Church,  looking  over  the  Taw  estuary. 

The  low  road  to  Braunton  (5  miles)  goes  out  below 
Pilton,  down  the  shore  of  the  estuary,  on  which  is  passed 
Heanton  Court,  an  imposing  shell,  relic  of  days  when  the  en- 
closures behind  were  a  great  deer  park  of  the  Bassett  family. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  above  the  junction,  rise 


186  .  BARNSTAPLE 

inviting  heights,  over  which  passes  the  road  to  Torrington 
(13  miles). 

Other  excursion  points  about  Barnstaple  have  been 
pointed  out  on  the  way  to  it,  or  will  now  be  shown  as  we 
successively  follow  the  railway  on  to  Ilfracombe,  then  the 
lines  diverging  here  for  Lynton,  and  for  Bideford  and 
Torrington. 


BARNSTAPLE  TO  ILFRACOMBE 

The  railway  journey  is  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  more 
or  less,  a  steep  ridge  having  to  be  crossed  that  catches  the 
breath  even  of  a  locomotive.  The  line  at  first  keeps  along 
the  side  of  the  Taw,  but  at  Wrafton  Station  it  begins  to 
ascend  above  a  creek  that  brings  masts  within  sight  of 
Braunton,  the  station  for  the  remarkable  stretch  of  shore 
between  Baggy  Point  and  the  mouth  of  the  Taw.  Here 
was  the  original  settlement  of  St.  Braun ;  and  in  this 
pleasant  village  died  Edward  Capern,  the  Devonshire  poet- 
postman.  The  neighbourhood  on  both  sides  deserves  to  be 
better  known,  as  it  would  be  if  there  were  an  hotel  near 
the  station. 

Braunton's  ancient  Church,  which  contains  some  good 
carving,  shows  its  spire  to  the  right  of  the  line,  above  which 
a  view  tower  invites  exploration  of  the  inland  heights.  On 
the  other  side,  towards  the  sea,  is  a  remarkable  feature  of 
landscape  in  Braunton  Great  Field,  said  to  cover  365  acres 
with  its  chessboard  of  unenclosed  plots,  a  survival  of  the 
Anglo-Saxon  system  of  communal  land-holding. 

[Beyond  this  lies  Braunton  Burrows,  that  southwards 
end  at  Bideford,  and  northwards  take  the  name  of 
Saunton  Sands.  This  labyrinth  of  sandhills  and 
burrows,  about  a  mile  broad  and  four  or  five  miles  long, 
said  to  cover  the  ruins  of  a  bygone  city,  has  been 
opened  up  by  a  road  to  the  Saunton  Sands  Hotel  (3  miles 
from  Braunton  Station),  to  which  rising  golf  links  are 
an  attraction.  A  little  further  north,  the  village  of 
Georgeham,  with  its  restored  church,  lies  at  the  base  of 


BARNSTAPLE    TO    ILFRACOMBB  187 

Baggy  Point,  on  the  south  side  of  which,  at  Croyde  Bay, 
summer  lodging-houses  have  begun  to  spring  up.  A 
path  leads  out  the  long  projection  of  Baggy  Point,  which 
has  a  wide  view  northwards  over  Woolacombe  Sands  and 
Morte  Point  (p.  198)  to  Lundy  Island  and  the  Welsh 
coast ;  then  southwards,  beyond  the  estuary  of  the  Taw 
and  the  Torridge,  to  the  coast -line  of  Clovelly  and 
Hartland.] 

Over  a  high  upland,  seamed  by  lanes,  the  railway  mounts 
to  its  highest  point  at  Morthoe  Station  {Fortescue  Arms 
Inn),  2  miles  above  Morte  Point  and  Woolacombe  (p.  199), 
which  we  shall  take  as  dependencies  of  Ilfracombe.  Just 
short  of  the  station  a  combe  opens  down  on  the  left  to 
Woolacombe  Sands  ;  then  beyond  it,  another  hollow  gives  a 
peep  on  Lee  (p.  197). 

The  train  now  descends,  passing  the  Slade  Reservoirs  of 
Ilfracombe,  and  comes  to  a  stop  high  above  the  town, 
beneath  the  prominent  height  of  Cairn  Top.  The  cyclist 
has  still  some  cautious  work  before  him  on  the  long  descent 
to  the  shore. 

The  road  from  Barnstaple  to  Ilfracombe  (a  short  12 
miles)  goes  out  to  the  right  of  Pilton  Church,  half  a  mile 
beyond  which  it  has  near  its  right  side  Raleigh  House,  on  the 
site  of  an  older  home  of  the  Raleighs.  Up  the  course  of 
Bradiford  Water  it  mounts  on  to  Muddiford  and  Milltown, 
then  at  Bittadon  reaches  its  "  Half-way  House."  Nearly 
3  miles  further,  at  Two  Pots,  for  a  little  way  it  coincides 
with  the  straighter  and  rougher  old  road  that,  running  not 
far  to  the  left  of  the  new  one,  might  be  chosen  by  pedes- 
trians. The  curving  new  road  winds  down  the  wooded 
Ghamhercomhe  Valley  (p.  194)  to  enter  Ilfracombe  by  the 
east  end,  while  the  old  road  drops  steeply  down  to  the 
centre  of  the  town. 

Another  route  is  by  Braunton,  which  is  2  miles  longer, 
but  for  its  first  stage  not  so  hilly  ;  and  at  the  expense  of  a 
little  further  roundabout  one  might  keep  the  byroads  near 
the  coast  past  Woolacombe  Sands  and  Lee  (pp.  197-199). 


ILFRACOMBE 


Hotels :  Ilfracombe,  in  its  own  grounds,  overlooking  the  sea ;  Royal  Clarence, 

in  High  Street;  Belgrave,  in  Wilder  Road,  opposite  the  Ilfracombe;  Queen's, 

etc.,  in  High  Street. 
Boarding-Houses  :  Collingwood,  Runnadeave,  Imperial,  Gilbert  House,  Carlton, 

Granville,  Dudley  House,  Seaview,  Clifton,  etc.,  near  the  sea.      Crescent, 

Montehello,  in  the  main  street,  with  restaurants. 
Post  and  Telegraph  Offices,  opposite  the  Queen's  Hotel,  High  Street,  with 

three  sub-offices. 
Railways :  London  and  South- Western,  from  Waterloo,  vid  Exeter ;  Great 

Western,  from  Paddington,  vid  Bristol  and  Taunton.     Through  carriages 

by  both  to  the  same  station. 
Steamers  :  From  Bristol,  Cardiff,  Swansea,  etc. 
Hackney  Carriage  Fares:   The  published  tariff  is  much  as  usual:   two 

persons,  one  horse.  Is.  the  first  mile,  2s.  6d.  the  first  hour,  etc.  ;  but  the 

stranger  will  be  lucky  who  escapes  being  asked  2s.  or  even  2s.  6d.  for 

going  to  and  from  the  station,  which  is  certainly  a  steep  mile,  and  further 

from  some  parts  of  the  town. 
Donkey  Carriages  and  Sedan  Chairs :  6d.  half  a  mile,  8d.  a  mile,  and  4d. 

for  every  half-mile  beyond  ;  Is.  an  hour,  and  6d.  for  additional  half-hour. 
Population :  8557. 

Gomhey  as  it  is  colloquially  called,  par  excellence,  along 
this  coast  of  combes,  has  become  the  most  important  resort 
of  North  Devon,  a  distinction  it  owes  to  its  situation  and 
surroundings,  and  to  its  climate,  more  bracing  than  that  of 
Torquay  and  Teignmouth,  while  hardly  less  warm  when 
warmth  is  most  wanted.  It  enjoys  a  high  mean  tempera- 
ture, arrived  at  rather  by  general  equability  than  by  spells 
of  great  heat.  In  winter  its  average  degree  has  been  stated 
at  44*9,  among  the  highest  on  the  British  mainland,  with  a 
lower  daily  range  than  at  Ventnor  or  Torquay,  and  a  large 
share  of  sunshine.  If,  indeed,  in  summer,  the  air  on  the 
shore  be  found  rather  too  close  and  steamy,  many  of  the 
best   lodging-houses  are    on   the   heights   above,    climbing 

188 


ILPRACOMBE  189 

upwards  in  search  of  refreshing  breezes  wherever  the  ground 
lends  itself  to  building  sites.  The  number  of  rainy  days  is 
considerable,  as  it  is  apt  to  be  all  over  Devon  ;  but  the 
total  rainfall  is  rather  below  that  of  South  Devon,  and  the 
soil,  being  light  and  porous,  soon  dries  after  the  sky  has 
been  using  its  frequent  watering-pot.  These  advantages 
have  been  more  and  more  tempting  permanent  residents  ; 
and  though  Ilfracombe  is  not  yet  a  town  of  mansions  and 
villas  like  Torquay,  the  number  of  strangers  who  come  here 
to  spend  the  winter  seems  to  be  increasing.  At  present, 
however,  its  popularity  is  as  a  summer  bathing-place  ;  and 
in  August  and  the  first  half  of  September  it  will  often  be 
found  inconveniently  crowded.  Yet,  as  in  the  case  of  so 
many  other  holiday  resorts,  the  loveliest  time  is  early 
summer  or  autumn,  when  visitors  would  be  received  with 
open  arms  and  best  bedrooms. 

A  characteristic  of  Ilfracombe  is  the  number  of  boarding- 
houses  and  private  hotels  that  flourish  here,  as  at  Bourne- 
mouth, crammed  in  the  season  by  sociable  crowds,  who 
have  taken  care  to  secure  in  advance  their  quarters  at  the 
favourite  ones.  Some  of  these  are  on  a  large  scale,  like 
continental  pensions ;  the  Eunnacleave  has  a  theatre  or 
concert-hall  of  its  own  ;  some  of  the  older  houses,  not  less 
popular  in  their  way,  are  connected  with  cheap  restaurants. 
The  charges  run  from  two  guineas  a  week  or  so.  Another 
class  of  visitors  has  increased  of  late,  as  is  shown  by  the 
enlargement  of  the  oddly -shaped  pier.  Steamers  discharge 
crowds  of  day  excursionists  from  Bristol,  from  Wales,  even 
from  the  Midlands,  for  whom  accommodation  is  provided 
about  the  harbour.  Then  there  is  a  continual  coming  and 
going  of  tourists,  who  find  this  a  good  centre  for  launching 
out  along  the  coast  from  the  railway  terminus  that  stands 
like  an  Alpine  chapel  above  the  lively  town. 

Ilfracombe  has  a  peculiarity  of  situation  in  being  almost 
entirely  surrounded  by  the  jagged  heights  or,  tors  which  are 
such  a  feature  of  North  Devon  scenery.  A  line  of  them 
shuts  it  in  from  the  shore,  so  that  the  town  has  no  sea  front 
to  speak  of.  These  fine  masses  of  rock  upon  the  shore  have 
been  turned  to  use  as  promenades  and  esplanades ;  and  the 


190  ILFRACOMBE 

m 

view  from  them,  landwards  and  seawards,  is  one  of  the  main 
attractions. 

Inland  rise  bold  heights  shutting  in  a  valley,  through 
which  winds  the  long  main  street,  more  or  less  parallel  to 
the  shore.  The  old  part  of  Ilfracombe  is  largely  overlaid  by 
its  modern  features.  The  most  important  monument  of 
the  past  is  the  Church,  built  in  the  12  th  century  and 
enlarged  in  the  15th,  which  stands  on  the  ascent  to  the 
station.  It  was  much  improved  by  the  Rev.  J.  M.  Chanter, 
Kingsley's  brother-in-law,  and  vicar  here  for  more  than  half 
a  century,  to  whose  memory  a  lych-gate  has  been  dedicated. 
There  are  two  other  churches,  besides  chapels  of  several 
denominations.  The  road  from  the  station  winds  down  to 
the  High  Street,  that  shows  its  best  shops  near  the  Clock 
Tower,  not  far  from  which  opens  a  covered  Arcade,  where 
the  main  thoroughfare  mounts  to  the  right  to  become  the 
Barnstaple  and  Lynton  roads,  and  to  the  left  slopes  meanly 
towards  the  harbour.  Through  the  Arcade  we  pass  directly 
down  to  the  Wilder  Road,  that  may  be  called  the  Piccadilly 
of  Ilfracombe,  below  which  a  green  makes  its  only  opening 
on  to  the  sea. 

The  harbour  lies  at  the  east  of  the  town,  in  an  out-of-the- 
way  corner,  above  which  rises  the  Lantern  Hill,  crowned  by 
the  ancient  chapel  of  St.  Nicholas,  still  a  beacon  to  mariners. 
This  is  reached  from  the  pier  enclosure,  which  has  need  of 
some  such  extra  inducement  to  give  for  its  toll,  being  a  pier 
of  utility  rather  than  elegance  ;  but  the  harbour  in  its  hollow 
recess  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  corners  of  the  town. 

Then  comes  the  Capstone  Parade,  a  green  hill,  well  laid 
out  with  walks,  seats  and  shelters.  One  of  the  sights  of  the 
place  is,  in  rough  weather,  to  see  the  waves  breaking  on  the 
rocky  face  round  which  runs  such  a  fine  promenade.  From 
the  top  of  the  Capstone,  at  dusk,  there  is  a  striking  view 
of  the  lights  of  the  town  rising  opposite  :  the  red  lantern  of 
St.  Nicholas  glowing  at  one  end,  and  the  far-off  glare  of  a 
train  at  the  other,  mark  the  size  of  Ilfracombe,  which  from 
a  fishing  village  has  stretched  itself  for  a  mile  and  more, 
swelling  upwards  into  every  available  corner. 

Beyond  the  Capstone  lies  that  open  green  that  may  be 


ii 


ILFRACOMBB  191 

taken  as  the  centre  of  the  place.  On  one  side  of  it  stands 
the  Ilfracombe  Hotel,  over  the  Wildersmouth  Cove ;  on  the 
other  a  winter  garden,  200  feet  long,  called  the  Victoria 
Promenade,  or  more  commonly  the  Jubilee  Shelter,  which 
has  become  for  Ilfracombe  what  the  Pump  Koom  was  in 
old-fashioned  watering-places.  A  band  plays  here  in  the 
evening,  when  admission  to  this  miniature  Crystal  Palace  is 
usually  free. 

Next  rises  the  steep  ridge  of  Runnacleave,  now  invaded 
on  its  land  face  by  houses,  under  which  runs  a  tunnel 
leading  to  the  bathing  beaches.  Behind  the  Kunnacleave 
is  sheltered  the  newest  and  most  pretentions  part  of  the 
town. 

At  the  west  end  begins  the  longer  line  of  heights  known 
as  the  Torsj  which  are  enclosed  and  laid  out  on  the  seaside 
with  very  attractive  winding  walks  of  a  mile  or  so,  a  charge 
of  Id.  and  2d.  being  made  for  admission.  Had  one  seen 
those  walks  "  before  they  were  made,"  one  would  probably 
be  grateful  for  them,  yet  there  seems  something  unworthy  of 
Ilfracombe's  dignity  in  this  toll  of  coppers.  The  views  of 
the  coast  are  certainly  well  worth  Id.  or  even  2d.  We  may 
mention,  for  the  information  of  economical  strangers,  that 
though  the  higher  fee  may  be  suggested  to  them,  they  can 
go  for  Id.  over  all  the  best  part  of  this  tamed  wilderness, 
the  twopenny  stretch  being  a  recent  addition.  In  the  season 
a  man  is  on  the  watch  to  examine  tickets  of  admission.  At 
the  highest  point  has  been  erected  a  refreshment  pavilion, 
which  makes  a  salient  feature  in  the  landscape. 

As  by  the  Tors  on  this  side,  at  the  other  end,  beyond  the 
harbour,  Ilfracombe  is  shut  in  by  the  open  slopes  of  Heles- 
borough  (or  Hillsborough).  Under  500  feet,  its  bold  sea 
face  and  steep  top  give  this  a  look  of  greater  height ;  and 
the  view  in  all  directions  would  repay  a  much  more  arduous 
climb.  The  path  to  it  is  a  continuation  of  Quayfield  Road, 
the  unpromising  entry  of  which  turns  up  to  the  right  at  the 
bottom  of  Fore  Street,  but  it  soon  becomes  a  pleasant  walk, 
overlooking  the  harbour,  then  a  footway  through  the  fields 
to  Hele,  branchiug  off  at  the  end  of  the  town  to  Rapparee 
Cove — the  bathing-place  also  reached  by  boat  from  the  pier 


192  ^  ILFRAOOMBE 

almost  opposite — and  a  little  further  on  to  the  top  of  the 
hill.  Any  one  leaving  Ilfracombe  by  the  Lynton  Road  will 
at  once  see  the  path  winding  up  the  green  side  of  Heles- 
borough.  There  are  some  ancient  earthworks  on  the  top, 
but  most  visitors  seem  to  take  more  interest  in  the  seats, 
which  on  a  hot  day  afford  an  airy  resting-place.  On  the 
further  side,  one  can  zig-zag  down  the  abrupt  slopes  to  the 
point  below,  where  a  cove  and  sands  invite  to  bathe.  The 
paths  have  been  improved  ;  and  direction -posts  tell  the 
stranger  how  to  turn. 

What  must  be  said  against  Ilfracombe  is  that  it  hardly  excels 
as  a  family  watering-place,  offering  rugged  cliffs  rather  than  safe 
sands  for  children.  The  bathing,  however,  is  good,  pains  having 
been  taken  to  provide  siiitable  arrangements.  From  the  Bath 
House  below  the  entrance  to  the  Tors'  Walks  one  passes  under  the 
Runnacleave  by  a  dark  tunnel  that  casts  a  shade  of  serious  resolve 
upon  the  swimmer's  manly  purpose,  and  on  the  hottest  day 
inspires  a  shiver  premonitory  of  the  coming  plunge.  This  Avernus- 
like  entrance  opens  out  into  picturesque  coves  containing  two 
walled-in  bathing-pools  for  ladies  and  gentlemen,  where  one  may 
safely  disport  oneself  on  the  roughest  day,  unless  when  they  are 
covered  at  high  tide.  On  the  other  side  of  the  town,  a  little  way 
beyond  the  harbour,  is  Rapparee  Cove,  where  a  more  open  swim 
can  be  had,  a  flag  being  hoisted  on  the  cliff  above  to  mark  certain 
hours  when  the  machines  here  are  reserved  for  ladies.  Connected 
with  the  Ilfracombe  Hotel,  but  open  to  the  public  on  payment,  is 
a  swimming  bath,  with  regulated  temperature,  in  which  entertain- 
ments are  sometimes  given. 

Boats,  large  and  small,  are  to  be  had  at  the  harbour  ;  and  there 
is  good  sea  fishing  off  the  coast,  where,  however,  none  but 
experienced  navigators  would  do  well  to  trust  themselves  without 
nautical  guidance,  which  is  sure  not  to  be  wanting  for  a  consider- 
ation. We  understand  that  trout  are  to  be  caught  in  the  large 
reservoirs  seen  in  entering  Ilfracombe  by  rail,  which  lie  high  up 
among  the  hills,  and  that  permission  to  angle  in  these  artificial 
tarns  may  be  had  at  the  Town  Hall.  There  is  a  lofty  golf  course 
at  Mullacot,  a  mile  or  so  out  behind  the  station.  Rare  bits  of  flat 
ground  in  the  Down  make  lawn-tennis  grounds  ;  and  football  fields 
have  been  contrived  in  the  valley  leading  up  to  the  Cemetery  and 
on  the  slopes  of  Helesborough  ;  but  a  cricket  field  has  had  to  be 
found  on  the  heights  at  Morthoe  Station.  There  are  many 
facilities  for  excursions  by  boat,  by  coach,  and  by  other  sociable 
conveyances  advertised  to  run,  in  the  season,  to  the  chief  neigh- 
bouring points.  The  steamers  occasionally  go  as  far  as  the  Welsh 
or  the  Cornish  coast ;   but  most  of  their  local  voyages  are  short 


WALKS  ABOUT  ILFRACOMBE  193 

ones,  made  while  their  cargo  of  trippers  from  Bristol  or  South 
Wales  is  on  shore.  Perhaps  the  favourite  adventure  by  sea  is  to 
Clovelly  (p.  229),  well  worth  the  risk  of  a  rough  tossing  and  of  a 
wetting  one  may  get  in  landing  by  boat.  Many  visitors  also 
take  the  chance  of  setting  foot  on  Lundy  Island  (p.  200),  which  is 
full  in  view — a  view  not  always  to  be  desired,  for 

'  When  Lundy  is  plain,  it  will  be  rain." 

A  few  of  the  regular  coach  or  char-a-bancs  drives  may  be 
quoted,  with  the  price  usually  charged: — Lynton,  5s. ;  Combe  Martin, 
2s.  6d.  ;  Barnstaple,  48.  6d.  ;  Wooda  Bay  and  Hunter's  Inn,  5s.  ; 
Woolacomhe  Sands,  2s.  6d.  ;  Watermouth  and  Berrynarhor,  2s.  ; 
Lee,  2s.  or  2s.  6d.  But  Ilfracombe,  like  Lynton,  is  one  of  those 
places  which  cannot  be  properly  enjoyed  without  the  use  of  one's 
own  legs  ;  and,  like  Lynton,  it  is  fortunate  in  being  surrounded 
by  beautiful  rambles  which  do  not  take  one  too  far  from  one's 
temporary  home.  We  propose,  then,  to  mention  first  the  shorter 
walks,  within  a  few  miles  round  the  town,  and  to  conclude  by 
conducting  our  reader  along  the  sea  coast  on  either  hand  to  the 
points  where  we  bring  him  from  another  radius. 


WALKS  ABOUT  ILFRACOMBE 

The  first  inland  point  likely  to  attract  the  stranger  is 
the  Cairn  Top,  above  the  railway  station,  distinguished  by  a 
flagstaff  and  by  winding  walks  cut  on  its  rough-grown  sides. 
The  most  direct  way  up  is  by  a  path  from  the  goods  yard  of 
the  station.  The  top  is  easily  reached  in  half  an  hour  from 
the  centre  of  the  town,  on  which  it  looks  down  so  as  to 
give  a  general  view  of  the  features  of  Ilfracombe.  The  walk 
may  be  extended  on  the  ridge  behind,  to  come  down 
either  into  the  high  valley  on  the  right,  where  are  the 
railway  and  the  reservoirs,  or  into  the  deep  combe  on  the 
other  side. 

Blade  Down  (666  feet)  between  Cairn  Top  and  the  sea, 
though  not  so  prominent  or  picturesque,  is  the  highest 
ground  of  the  ring  of  heights,  and  may  be  ascended  either 
by  Langleigh  Lane,  beginning  near  the  Church,  or  from  the 
coast  road  to  Lee  at  the  back  of  the   Tor^    Walks.      This 

13 


194  ^  ILPRAOOMBE 

climb  may  take  a  little  longer,  but  is  quite  easy.  Holding 
down  into  the  valley  tbat  makes  the  railway's  course,  one 
comes  on  the  chain  of  Reservoirs  by  which  Morthoe  Station 
can  be  gained. 

Where  the  Station  Road  goes  up  from  the  Church  is  the 
meeting-place  of  some  half-dozen  streets  and  roads  leading  in 
all  directions.  Take  the  Braunton  or  St.  Brannock's  Boad^ 
which  leads  up  the  wooded  combe  winding  round  Cairn  Top. 
This  conducts  us  to  several  of  the  favourite  points — to  the 
Mullacott  Golf  course,  to  the  Cemetery,  to  Bicclescomhe  Lane, 
to  the  Score  Woods,  and  to  Westdown.  Guide-posts  will  be 
found  that  make  farther  direction  -unnecessary,  and  two  or 
three  afternoons  may  be  spent  in  varying  the  rambles  in  and 
about  this  beautiful  valley. 

At  the  back  of  the  town  rises  a  tableland,  on  one  side  of 
which  runs  the  Old,  on  the  other  the  New  Barnstaple  Rood, 
joining  one  another  a  little  more  than  2  miles  out,  to 
separate  again  after  a  hundred  yards  or  so.  A  round  of 
about  5  miles  by  these  two  roads  will  give  a  good  idea  of  the 
country  behind.  The  old  road  being  naturally  steeper,  it 
might  be  well  to  start  out  by  the  new  one,  which,  leaving 
the  Lynton  road  landwards  at  the  end  of  the  town,  winds 
pleasantly  above  the  Chambercomhe  Valley  and  the  fine 
Warmscomhe  Woods  till  it  falls  into  the  old  road,  where  the 
telegraph  wires  lead  us  back  to  Ilfracombe.  Or,  keeping  a 
little  way  further  out  the  straight  old  road,  one  would  find  a 
crossway  westward  to  Mullacott,  and  for  a  3  miles  longer 
round,  might  strike  southwards  across  the  heights  to  West- 
doion,  a  village  4  miles  south  of  the  town,  Eastdown  being 
some  miles  off  as  far  south  of  Combe  Martin  (p.  196). 

One  of  the  pleasantest  inland  strolls  of  an  hour  or  two 
is  up  the  Ghamhercombe  Valley  opening  from  the  village  of 
Hele.  Just  past  a  quaint  thatched  building  on  the  way  to 
Lynton,  the  "  Chambercomhe  Road  "  is  indicated,  which  at 
first  may  seem  not  inviting,  but  soon  becomes  a  truly 
Devonian  lane  winding  up   a   charming   hollow.     Passing 


ROUND    ABOUT    ILPRACOMBE  195 

through  a  farmyard,  it  dwindles  to  a  rocky  path,  which 
mounts  to  the  Warmscomhe  Woods  (2  miles).  These  may  be 
skirted  to  the  open  hillside  above,  from  which  there  is  a 
fine  glimpse  into  the  richly-wooded  "gorge.  Onward,  then, 
the  adventurous  rambler  could  make  his  way  in  various 
directions  by  paths  and  tracks  over  half-cultivated  downs 
and  combes.  But  we  have  said  enough  to  show  the  main 
points  of  the  country  behind. 

One  more  walk,  however,  may  be  suggested  as  worth 
spending  three  or  four  hours  on.  From  the  new  Barnstaple 
Koad,  a  mile  or  so  after  its  junction,  or  from  the  head  of 
the  valley  just  mentioned,  we  might  gain  a  cross  road  leading 
on  to  Berry  Down,  about  3  miles  east,  and  almost  as  far  back 
from  the  sea,  thence  to  descend  by  the  pretty  Sterrage  Valley 
into  Berrynarbor,  a  very  Devonian  village,  birthplace  of 
Bishop  Jewell,  with  a  good  old  church  to  be  seen  and  a  snug 
little  inn  (Globe)  for  refreshment.  At  the  bottom  of  this 
village,  guide-post8  give  a  choice  of  reaching  the  coast  at 
Watermouth  (see  below)  or  of  striking  over  the  hill  for  Hele 
by  a  rougher  way  to  Ilfracombe  (3  miles),  unless  we  choose 
the  round  by  Combe  Martin  while  we  are  about  it. 


TO  COMBE  MARTIN  AND  LYNTON 


The  road  eastwards  goes  below  Helesborough  (p.  191),  a 
pleasant  byway  being  the  path  along  its  side  as  far  as  Hele, 
the  village  beyond.  Hence  the  road  runs  in  full  view  of 
the  sea,  at  several  points  rising  hundreds  of  feet  above  the 
shore  with  downward  peeps  into  inaccessible  rocky  coves. 
In  about  two  miles  it  reaches  Watermouth,  by  Widiiwuth 
Head  and  Burrow  Nose,  fern-clad  promontories  presenting  an 
epitome  of  the  coast  scenery.  Past  Watermouth  Castle,  a 
I  modern  building  in  beautiful  grounds,  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  way  opens  an  access  to  the  Smallmouth  and  Briary  caves, 
so  highly  praised  in  Gosse's  "  Eamblings  of  a  Naturalist." 
These  grand  natural  tunnels,  whose  seaward  opening  frames 


196  ILPRACOMBE 

such  a  beautiful  view,  are  well  wortli  visiting,  and  in  the 
season  some  one  will  usually  be  found  on  the  roadside  to  lead 
visitors  to  them. 

At  Watermouth  the  road  doubles  back  ;  but  there  is  a 
fenced  path  along  the  cliffs  that  rejoins  it  higher  up,  as  it 
goes  sweeping  round  into  Comhe  Martin  Bay,  beyond  which 
projects  Hangman  Point,  its  base  seen  hollowed  by  caves.  If 
we  are  content  with  a  look  down  into  Combe  Martin,  near 
the  fourth  milestone,  a  road  turns  inland  for  a  short  mile  to 
Berrynarhor  (see  above),  which  might  also  be  gained  from 
Combe  Martin,  a  mile  or  two  further  on. 

Combe  Martin  (Hotels:  King's  Arms;  Castle;  Marine) 
lies  prettily  in  a  well-wooded  valley.  The  village  street  is 
more  than  a  mile  in  length,  running  inland  from  the  rock- 
bound  harbour.  In  the  middle  of  the  village  stands 
St.  Peter's  Church,  built  of  red  stone  and  Perpendicular 
in  style.  It  contains  a  marble  monument  and  eflSgy  to 
Dame  Hancock,  who  died  in  1637,  and  a  richly-worked  rood- 
screen.  A  mine  of  silver  was  worked  in  this  neighbourhood 
during  the  time  of  the  Plantagenets,  and  unsuccessful 
attempts  have  more  than  once  been  made  to  revive  the 
enterprise. 

Lodgings  can  be  had  in  the  village,  and  visitors  in  search 
of  quietness  may  pass  a  very  pleasant  time  at  Combe  Martin. 
There  is  a  good  bathing-place  in  the  first  cove  westwards  of 
the  bay.  Fine  walks  will  be  found  in  all  directions — up 
the  valley  of  the  little  river ;  westwards  along  the  Ilfracombe 
Road,  and  to  Berrynarhor ;  southwards  to  the  top  of  Berry 
Down ;  and  over  the  downs  rising  on  the  east  side  of  the 
village,  especially  to  the  heights  overlooking  the  sea  on  either 
side  of  Hangman  Point — the  Little  Hangman,  and  Great 
Hangman,  that  explain  their  name  by  the  legend  of  a  man 
carrying  a  stolen  sheep  who  was  justly  strangled,  its  struggles 
tightening  the  cord  by  which  it  hung  round  his  neck. 

Combe  Martin  is  a  little  over  five  miles  from  Ilfracombe. 
Hence  the  coach  road  to  Lynton  turns  inland,  winding  up  to 
Parracombe  (p.  203),  where  we  shall  come  upon  it  from  another   | 


ROUND  ABOUT  ILFRACOMBE  197 

direction.  Between  this  and  the  coast  pedestrians  could  find 
steeper  byways,  or  hold  along  the  chain  of  heights  by  the 
sea — the  Great  Hangman  (1044  feet),  the  Holdstone 
Barrows  (1146  feet),  and  Trentishoe  Barrows  (1061  feet), 
beyond  which  a  road  descends  to  the  Hunter's  Inn  (p.  213)  a 
mile  above  Heddon's  Mouth,  some  half-dozen  straight  miles 
from  Combe  Martin,  and  about  as  far  from  Lynton  by  roads 
hence  leading  plainly  onwards.  To  Trentishoe  with  its 
little  church,  south  of  the  other  heights  above  mentioned_,  a 
road  goes  out  of  Combe  Martin  near  the  "King's  Arms," 
rising  to  Stoney  Corner  by  ruined  shafts  and  rubbish  heaps  of 
the  abandoned  silver  mines;  but  this  way  cannot  be 
recommended  to  cyclists,  who  if  in  no  hurry,  may  keep  the 
high  road  to  Parracombe,  and  beyond  it  turn  down  to 
Hunter's  Inn  for  a  beautiful  round,  described  later  on  (p.  2 1 2). 


TO  MORTHOE  AND  WOOLACOMBE 

As  far  as  Lee,  a  short  three  miles,  this  is  a  walk  no 
Ilfracombe  visitor,  who  can,  fails  to  take.  There  are 
three  ways  to  Lee.  The  driving  road  has  such  steep  ups 
and  downs  that  the  merciful  man  will  be  inclined  to  walk 
much  of  it,  though  he  may  have  hired  a  carriage  "  for  the 
honour  of  the  thing."  The  recognised  fare  is  5  s.  there  and 
back,  with  an  extra  shilling  for  an  hour's  waiting.  The 
coast  road  mounts  behind  the  Tors,  by  winding  turns,  some 
of  which  may  be  cut  off  by  steep  short  cuts  ;  then  it  becomes 
fairly  level  as  it  passes  below  Slade  Down  to  keep  henceforth 
near  the  cliffs.  The  best  way  on  foot  is  by  the  Tors'  Walks 
to  the  Pavilion,  from  which  we  can  drop  down  upon  the 
road  just  mentioned,  bringing  us  to  the  steep  descent  into 
the  finely-wooded  opening  of  Lee  Bay.  At  the  head  of  the 
descent  is  a  path  through  fields,  kindly  indicated  by 
advertisers  of  refreshment.  This  path  takes  us  down  directly 
into  the  village,  where  more  modest  accommodations  are  now 
overshadowed  by  the  Lee  Bay  Hotels  transformed  out  of  the 
old  Manor  House. 


198  ILFRACOMBE 

The  valley  is  very  pretty,  overhung  by  the  woods  of  Lee 
Manor,  rising  up  the  sides  of  the  combe  which  makes  such  a 
pretty  peep  from  the  railway  above.  Admission  to  these 
woods  is  charged  2d.  On  the  other  side  is  a  public  footpath 
leading  up  the  combe,  by  which  Morthoe  Station  (p.  187)  can 
be  reached — a  footpath  rather  hard  to  find  and  follow,  but 
so  long  as  one  keeps  to  the  stretches  of  half-wild  land,  it 
seems  not  necessary  to  take  very  seriously  the  warnings 
exhibited  in  terrorem  for  trespassers. 

For  the  village  of  Morthoe^  we  keep  on  up  the  further 
ascent,  passing  the  entrance  to  Lee  Woods.  The  distance 
by  road  is  about  3  miles,  which  will  be  a  good  deal 
lengthened  if  we  hold  to  the  coast,  taking  the  outside  of  the 
knoll  crowned  by  a  flagstaff,  and  so  on  to  Bull  Point.  On 
the  road,  a  post  presently  shows  a  lane  to  the  right  as  foot- 
path to  Morthoe  ;  and  from  this  soon  diverges  a  path  to 
Bull  Point.  There  are  direction  boards  to  guide  one  through 
fields,  but  before  long  a  line  of  telegraph  posts  welcome  us 
into  the  driving  road  from  Morthoe  to  Bull  Point,  which 
will  thus  be  5  miles  or  so  from  Ilfracombe.  The  Lighthouse 
here  may  be  visited,  and  there  is  a  fine  view  from  this  point, 
where  now  the  coast  turns  southward. 

If  we  have  made  the  digression  to  the  Lighthouse,  the 
road  hence  to  Morthoe  is  about  2  miles,  unless  we  make  it 
longer  by  keeping  round  Rockham  Bay  to  Morte  Point. 
This  road  comes  on  the  little  village  of  Morthoe,  standing 
well  back  from  the  sea,  a  group  of  weather-worn  old 
houses,  beginning  to  be  looked  down  on  by  new  quarters  for 
summer  visitors,  including  more  than  one  boarding-house. 
It  is  2  miles  by  road  from  the  station  of  its  name  (p.  187), 
where  there  is  a  small  inn.  The  Morthoe  Hotel  is  down 
below  on  the  beach  ;  and  there  is  the  Chichester  Arms  in 
the  village,  near  the  little  Norman  Church,  containing  a 
tomb  thought  to  be  that  of  William  de  Tracey,  one  of 
Becket's  murderers,  who  is  said  to  have  lived  in  dreary 
exile  here,  "  when  wind  and  weather  turned  against  him." 
The  legend  also  has  a  feature  common  in  Cornwall :  the 
murderer's  doom  is  eternally  to  make  bundles  and  wisps  of 
sand.     We  have  seen  other  churches  in  Devon  handed  down 


MORTB  BAY  AND  WOOLACOMBE  199 

as  built  by  this  repentant  sinner  in  expiation  of  his  crime 
ever  since  which,  according  to  the  proverbial  rhyme — 

•'  TheTraceys 
Have  the  wind  in  their  faces." 

Morte  Bay  (6  miles)  seems  the  very  home  for  gloomy 
legends.  It  is  enclosed  by  bold  headlands  at  either  extremity; 
on  the  north  by  Morte  Point,  with  its  black,  jagged  cliffs, 
here  rising  to  the  height  of  800  feet ;  on  the  south  by 
Baggy  Point,  a  favourite  resort  of  sea-birds,  running  out 
"  like  a  huge  pier  into  the  sea."  Under  the  cliffs  of  Morte 
Point  lies  Barricane  Beach,  rich  in  shells ;  whilst  out  to  sea 
the  waves  dash  fiercely  over  the  ill-famed  Morte  Stone,  which 
has  a  terrible  reputation  for  shipwrecks.  Swimmers  also 
must  take  great  care  how  they  breast  the  tide  among  these 
fearsome  rocks.  Bathing  had  best  be  avoided  at  this  end, 
unless  one  be  quite  sure  what  one  is  about. 

The  greater  part  of  the  Bay,  however,  is  occupied  by 
a  grand  stretch  of  sand,  large  enough  for  an  army  to  bathe 
on,  and  the  more  remarkable  as  being  the  first  extensive 
sands  met  with  on  this  coast.  Here  also  has  begun  to  arise 
a  place  of  bathing  quarters,  Woolacombe,  which,  in 
pictures  and  plans,  threatens  to  extend  itself  into  a  second 
Ilfracombe.  As  yet  it  consists  of  an  hotel  (Woolacombe  Bay) 
and  a  group  of  lodging-houses,  with  a  road  of  their  own  to 
Morthoe  Station,  by  a  deep  crooked  combe  running  up  be- 
hind Morthoe  village. 

Woolacombe  Sands  extend  for  2  miles  or  so,  the  coast 
behind  them  being  less  bold  till  we  come  to  the  long  pro- 
jection of  Baggy  Point.  This  is  not  an  easy  place  to  get  at, 
about  5  miles  from  Morthoe,  going  along  the  sands,  and 
making  one's  own  way  along  the  point;  but  it  is  worth 
attaining  for  the  sake  of  the  fine  view  already  mentioned 
(p.  187),  then  beyond  it  the  sands  of  Saunton  and  Braunton 
begin  about  1 1  miles  from  Ilfracombe. 

Our  last  Excursion  from  Ilfracombe  is  one  that  will  not 
appear  in  any  Cyclists'  Guide — to  Lundy  Island. 


200  .  LUNDY    ISLAND 


LUNDY  ISLAND 


Hartland  Point  (12  m.)  is  the  nearest  land  to  this  dependency  of  Devon, 
16  m.  from  Clovelly.  It  is  most  frequently  visited,  perhaps,  by  the 
excursion  steamers  from  Ilfracorabe,  which  take  about  two  hours,  landing 
their  passengers  on  the  beach  for  a  short  stay.  A  sailing  boat  from  Instoio 
Quay  (23  m.)  carries  the  mails  every  Thursday  (weather  permitting),  and 
passengers  are  taken  across  at  a  charge  of  5s. — 7s.  6d.  return.  Refresh- 
ments and  lodgings  may  be  had  at  a  farmhouse  near  the  landing-place. 

Lundy,  prominent  sentry  of  the  Bristol  Channel,  cannot 
fail  to  excite  the  curiosity  of  tourists  on  the  mainland.  In 
length,  it  is  3  miles  from  north  to  south ;  in  breadth, 
from  east  to  west,  about  -|  mile  ;  and  in  area  920  acres, 
almost  wholly  pasturage.  The  inhabitants  in  1891 
numbered  about  50.  On  the  coast,  the  more  remark- 
able points  are — the  Hen  and  Chickens  reef,  north,  and  the 
isolated  rock  of  the  Constable ;  Lamatry,  and  Rat  Island, 
south  ;  the  Seals,  Gannets,  and  Gull  Rocks,  east ;  and  on  the 
west  the  savage  chasm  of  the  DeviVs  Limekiln,  with  the  rock 
of  the  Shutter  opposite  its  seaward  mouth,  as  if  designed  to 
block  it  up. 

A  family  named  Marisco  were  long  the  proprietors  of  this 
wild  demesne,  and  one  of  them  having  plotted  against 
Henry  III.,  fled  hither  for  safety.  For  some  years  he  and 
his  comrades  led  a  rude  buccaneering  life,  but  were  eventually 
captured  by  the  king's  cruisers,  and  duly  executed.  The 
island  has  also  served  as  a  stronghold  for  Turkish,  Scotch, 
and  French  privateers ;  and  so  late  as  the  1 8th  century  it 
was  in  the  hands  of  a  local  scoundrel  named  Benson,  who 
turned  this  fastness  to  various  unlawful  accounts.  It  is 
now  the  peaceful  possession  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Heaven,  whose 
name  lends  itself  to  certain  well-worn  jokes,  sure  to  be  passed 
upon  visitors  to  his  tiny  kingdom. 

Besides  remains  of  some  round  towers  of  doubtful  origin, 
the  only  antiquities  are  the  ruins  of  Marisco  Castle  at  the 
south  end,  and  traces  of  a  chapel  on  the  highest  point  (over 
500  feet)  near  the  old  lighthouse  (above  the  south-western 
corner),  now  superseded  by  lights  at  either  end  of  the  island. 
The  geology  of  the  island  is  interesting  through  the  junction 


1  LUNDY    ISLAND  201 

of  granite  and  slate  seen  here  ;  and  along  the  west  side  are 
curious  chasms  believed  to  be  caused  by  earthquakes.  The 
precipitous  cliflfs  are  the  resort  of  numerous  sea-fowl,  which 
Mr.  Heaven  is  laudably  anxious  to  preserve.  Rabbits  abound 
on  land,  as  crabs  and  lobsters  in  the  sea.  Rat  Island,  which 
shelters  the  landing-place  (at  the  south  end),  gets  its  name 
from  being  one  of  the  last  refuges  of  the  old  British  breed  of 
black  rat,  which,  however,  is  being  exterminated  by  its 
Hanoverian  supplanter.  Many  plants  flourish  here  hardly 
now  to  be  found  on  the  mainland  ;  but  only  in  sheltered 
nooks  can  trees  hold  out  against  the  winds.  The  fuchsia 
and  hydrangea  grow  to  great  size,  thanks  to  the  mild  climate, 
which  is  that  of  Devonshire,  "  only  more  so,"  with  a  large 
share  of  fog  to  set  off  against  the  rarity  of  frost  and  snow. 


LYNTON   AND   LYNMOUTH 

We  now  turn  to  the  north-eastern  corner  containing  the 
very  Devonshire  cream  of  scenery  about  those  famous  twin 
villages,  separated  by  a  steep  ascent  of  500  feet,  Lynton 
clustering  on  the  edge  above,  Lynmouth  lying  snug  beneath 
its  sheltering  cliff.  This  district  has  been  called  the  Switzer- 
land of  England,  but  can  well  afford  to  refuse  all  such  com- 
parisons. It  joins  together,  as  in  a  bouquet,  the  moors  of 
Scotland,  the  downs  of  Surrey,  the  sweet  ravines  of  Wales, 
the  ragged  gorges  of  sub-Alpine  heights,  all  richly  clad  in 
the  leafage  of  Devon,  with  rare  blendings  of  form  and  colour, 
which  make  it  like  nothing  but  itself.  Perhaps  the  most 
peculiar  feature  is  that  so  much  wealth  of  scenery  should  be 
poured  out  at  the  very  edge  of  the  sea.  Southey  spoke  of 
Lynmouth  as  the  "  finest  spot,  except  Cintra  and  Arrabida," 
he  ever  saw.  The  lake  poets  had  nearly  settled  in  this 
neighbourhood,  whose  popularity  could  not  have  failed,  in 
that  case,  to  come  half  a  century  sooner.  Shelley  also  spent 
some  time  at  Lynmouth  in  1812.  But  the  author  who  has 
done  most  for  the  district  is  the  late  Mr.  Blackmore,  whose 
"  Lorna  Doone  "  is  religiously  read  by  visitors,  to  send  them 
on  trips  over  Exmoor  to  the  wild  scenery  it  celebrated. 

For  long  the  freshness  of  this  corner  of  Devon  was  pro- 
tected by  the  rugged  country  around,  which  does  not  lend 
itself  to  railway -making.  By  twenty  miles  of  picturesque 
but  trying  road,  crowded  coaches  arrived  in  the  season  from 
the  four  nearest  stations — Ilfracombe,  Minehead,  Barnstaple, 
and  Dulverton.  But  now  a  light  railway  is  open  from 
Barnstaple,  and  a  regular  pier  is  in  view  to  supplant  the 

202 


BARNSTAPLE    TO    LYNTON  203 

small  jetty,  where  steamers  from  Bristol  and  Swansea  put 
out  their  passengers  by  small  boats,  weather  permitting. 
The  coaches  still  ply  in  either  direction  along  the  coast,  from 
Easter  to 'October,  but  those  running  inland  have  been 
given  up. 

BARNSTAPLE  TO  LYNTON 

The  railway  which  has  made  this  corner  more  accessible 
is  of  narrow  gauge,  requiring  a  change  of  carriage  at  the 
Town  Station,  Barnstaple.  There  are  through  bookings 
with  the  L.  &  S.-W.  R.,  but  not  with  the  G.  W.  R.  Un- 
fortunately, this  line  does  not  seem  to  be  a  financial  success, 
and  its  service,  out  of  the  season  at  least,  is  not  a  very 
liberal  one. 

The  line  at  first  keeps  up  the  winding  course  of  the  Yeo, 
with  Pilton  church  tower  (p.  185)  on  the  left,  and  that  of 
Goodleigh  presently,  on  the  right,  marking  a  side  valley,  up 
which,  a  couple  of  miles  to  Stoke  Rivers,  then  tiftning  over 
the  heights  south-westward  by  Goodleigh^  one  might  have  an 
alluring  ramble  back  to  Barnstaple  from  the  first  station. 
This  is  Chelfham  (pron.  Cliellam),  reached  by  a  fine  viaduct 
over  the  tributary  stream.  Soon  afterwards  the  rail  leaves 
the  Yeo,  mounting  eastward  up  the  Bratton  Valley  to 
Bratton  Station,  near  the  lofty  village  of  Bratton  Fleming, 
where  a  good  deal  of  building  is  in  evidence.  The  next 
station  is  Blackmoor  (900  feet),  lying  under  the  tumuli  of 
Kentisbury  Down  to  the  left,  whence  one  might  descend  on 
foot  to  Lynton  and  Lynmouth  (7  miles)  or  Ilfracombe  (10 
miles)  from  the  cross  roads  at  Blackmoor  Gate.  The  railway 
has  next  to  wind  around  the  deep  hollow  in  which  lies 
Parracombe  {Fox  and  Geese  Inn\  where,  near  the  stopping 
platform,  can  be  seen  the  tower  of  the  old  church,  another  of 
those  said  to  have  been  built  in  expiation  of  Thomas  h. 
Becket's  murder.  Hence  flows  the  Heddon  Water,  which 
one  might  follow  down  its  beautiful  course  by  the  Hunter^ s 
Inn  (p.  213).  The  cyclist  will  find  a  way  diverging  from 
the  main  road  a  little  beyond  Parracombe.  At  the  last 
station,   Wooda  Bay,  two  miles  behind   this   place   and   its 


204  ^       LYNTON    AND    LYNMOUTH 

neighbour  Trentishoe,  the  line  has  reached  a  highest  point  of 
about  1000  feet.  Beyond  this,  it  crooks  down  the  valley  of 
the  West  Lyn  (best  glimpses  on  right  hand),  coming  to 
a  stop  some  half-mile  behind  Lynton,  and  more  than  a  mile 
by  the  zigzag  road  from  Lynmouth. 

The  road  (IV  miles)  keeps  pretty  near  the  course  of  the 
railway,  except  in  its  central  stage,  where  it  strikes  a  mile 
further  north  to  Loxhore,  before  leaving  the  valley  of  the 
Yeo,  then  rejoins  the  railway  at  Blackmoor. 

Another  way,  preferred  for  a  better  cycling  surface  and 
not  much  longer,  is  on  the  right  side  of  the  Yeo,  turning  off 
the  Ilfracombe  road  about  a  mile  beyong  Pilton,  then  by  the 
rich  combe  of  Arlington  and  up  to  Kentisbury  Ford,  whence, 
a  short  2  miles  eastward,  one  gains  the  Blackmoor  Gate  cross 
roads. 

MINEHEAD  TO  LYNMOUTH  (18  miles) 

This  is  one  of  the  famous  coach  drives  of  England,  con- 
tinuing the  G.  W.  railway  route  to  Minehead.  The  first 
stage  is  fairly  level  between  the  North  Hill  of  Minehead,  and 
the  Exmoor  heights  rising  to  Dunkery  Beacon ;  but  at 
Porlock  begins  the  ascent  of  the  highest  English  coast-line 
by  a  series  of  zigzags  ascending  Porlock  Hill,  a  proverb  for 
steepness  in  the  west  country,  up  which  all  passengers  who 
can  are  expected  to  walk. 

Near  the  highest  point  (a  little  over  4  miles)  comes  in  a  new 
road  that,  opening  through  a  white  gate  beyond  the  Ship  Hotel, 
takes  the  ascent  in  a  series  of  gentler  but  rather  longer  curves. 
This  latter,  open  to  cyclists,  is  recommended  in  the  C.T.C.  Road 
Book  ;  but  its  lately  published  "  Companion  "  does  not  agree  with 
the  preference,  very  truly  remarking  that  neither  way  is  rideable, 
up  or  down,  while  the  old  road  gives  the  more  open  views. 
Pedestrians  have  a  path  above  the  shore,  by  Olenthorne  (p.  214). 

Almost  at  the  highest  point  (about  1400  feet),  is  Oare 
Post,  where  a  road  turns  off  on  the  left  for  Oare.  The  high 
road  runs,  still  at  a  lofty  eminence,  along  heathery  moors, 
seamed  by  water-courses,  dotted  by  tumuli,  and   here  and 


LYNTON    AND    LYNMODTH  205 

rhere  by  a  straggling  wood,  or  lined  by  beech  hedges  that 
show  bright  among  the  pines.  On  the  seaward  side,  over 
the  broken  ^nd  wooded  cliff-edge  is  a  grand  prospect  of  the 
Welsh  coast.  On  the  left  are  hidden  away  Oare  and  the 
Badge  worthy  Valley  (p.  2 1 5).  From  the  top  of  Porlock  Hill 
down  to  Lynmouth  is  about  8  miles.  Nearly  half-way,  at 
the  County  Gate  (p.  214),  we  enter  Devon,  and  hold  on  past 
Countisbury  down  another  long  and  formidable  descent  into 
the  Lyn  Valley,  its  charms  of  wood,  hill  and  water  well  seen 
on  this  approach. 


LYNTON  AND  LYNMOUTH 

Hotels  at  Lynton :  The  Royal  Castle,  and  The  Valley  of  Rocks,  both  in  their 

own  grounds  and  commanding  beautiful  views  ;  Cottage,  Imperial,  Qtieen's, 

Crown,  Globe,  etc. 
Hotels  at  Lynmouth  :  The  Lyndale,  Tors,  Lyn  Valley,  Bath,  Rising  Sun. 
Several  small  Boardlng-Houses  have  been  opened.    Lodgings  are  hard  to  get 

in  the  height  of  the  season. 
Railway :  Narrow  gauge  line  from  Barnstaple ;  station   10  minutes'   walk 

above  Lynton  :  shortest  way  up  by  Globe  and  Crown  Inns. 
Coach  from  Minehead  in  summer  ;  and  excursion  vehicles  from  Ilfracombe. 
Steamers  to  Ilfracombe  from  Bristol,  etc.,  land  passengers,  weather  allowing, 

by  small  boats,  till  the  new  Pier  is  built. 
A  Lift  running  every  few  minutes  (4d.)  connects  the  two  villages. 

"  Unpaintable  Lynmouth !  Charming  contrast  of  civilised 
English  landscape  gardening,"  exclaims  Charles  Kingsley; 
"  strangely  and  yet  harmoniously  confronted  with  the  mad 
chaos  of  the  rocks  and  the  mountain  streams."  Southey 
tells  us  how  "  two  rivers  join  at  Lynmouth  " — the  East  and 
West  Lyns.  "Each  of  these  flows  down  a  combe,  rolling 
over  huge  stones  like  a  long  waterfall  ;  immediately  at 
their  junction  they  enter  the  sea,  and  the  river  and  the  sea 
make  but  one  sound  of  uproar.  Of  these  combes,  the  one 
is  richly  wooded,  the  other  runs  between  two  high,  bare, 
stony  hills.  From  the  hill  between  the  two  is  a  prospect 
most  magnificent — on  either  hand  combes,  and  the  river 
before  the  little  village.  .  .  .  This  alone  would  constitute 
a  view  beautiful  enough  to  repay  the  weariness  of  a  long 
journey  ;  but  to  complete  it  there  is  the  blue  and  boundless 
sea."     The   houses  of  the  village  cluster  round  the  little 


206  LYNTON   AND    LYNMOUTH 

bridges  spanning  the  Lyns,  and  line  the  west  side  of  the 
harbour,  such  as  it  is,  formed  by  their  mouth,  where  these 
mountain  torrents  calm  down  together  for  a  short  career  on 
the  level,  to  enter  the  sea  past  a  little  quay,  dignified  by  a 
venerable-looking  tower  that  marks  the  channel  among  the 
black  boulders  of  the  beach.  The  place  has  naturally  a 
somewhat  motley  aspect,  the  new  hotels  and  lodging-houses 
contrasting  with  the  homes  of  herring-fishers  and  smugglers 
who  once  had  Lynmouth  to  themselves  ;  but  still  it  is  not 
unworthy  of  its  picturesque  surroundings.  The  new  Pier 
now  to  be  provided  is  looked  on  by  many  as  a  doubtful 
advantage,  likely  to  flood  the  place  with  a  class  of  excur- 
sionigts  for  whom  there  is  little  accommodation,  and  on 
whom  for  the  most  part  its  characteristic  beauties  might  be 
thrown  away.  The  "Lift"  railway  itself  for  many  years 
has  been  cursed  by  conservative  and  artistic  souls,  blessed 
by  unwieldy  bodies  and  rheumatic  limbs  ;  and  there  are 
those  who  prophesy  that  the  line  from  Barnstaple  will 
ruin  the  charm  of  the  place,  as  well  as  its  shareholders. 

Closely  overlooking  Lynmouth,  and  more  than  400  feet 
above  it,  stands  Lynton,  on  a  platform  of  high  ground. 
The  road  mounts  to  it  from  the  bottom  of  the  valley  by  a 
series  of  zigzags  carried  up  the  side  of  the  hill ;  and  there 
is  a  more  toilsome  climb  by  most  delightful  paths.  On 
reaching  the  top  by  the  "  Lift,"  the  stranger  finds  himself 
in  the  centre  of  Lynton,  beside  the  pretty  Church  and 
churchyard.  The  Post-Ofl&ce  and  most  of  the  shops  lie 
opposite,  where  a  steep  lane  descends  to  the  hollow  con- 
taining a  quaint  entanglement  of  narrow  up-and-down  streets. 
The  Parish  Church  at  Lynton  has  a  Perpendicular  tower ; 
the  nave  is  of  later  date,  whilst  the  chancel  is  modern. 
There  is  a  new  Church  at  Lynmouth,  Early  English  in 
style.  Near  the  upper  station  of  the  Lift,  a  Public  Hall 
has  been  presented  to  the  place  by  Sir  G.  Newnes,  whose 
conspicuous  mansion,  a  display  of  architectural  "  Tit-bits," 
stands  on  Holiday  Hill  high  above  Lynton,  and  to  whom 
it  largely  owes  the  communications  and  developments  which 
have  lately  gone  so  far  to  alter  the  character  of  this  once 
secluded  resort. 


LYNTON    AND    LTNMOUTH  207 

Tbough  Lynton  and  Lynmouth  are  advanced  enough  to  have 
electric  lightrng,  the  ordinary  distractions  of  a  seaside  resort  must 
by  no  means  be  looked  for  here.  Entertainments  are  exceptional  ; 
if  there  be  a  band  it  is  a  novelty  ;  and  the  little  bit  of  Esplanade 
formed  on  the  rough  shore  seems  merely  an  impertinence.  The 
bathing  is  bad,  and  not  very  safe.  At  Lynmouth  men  have  to 
take  their  chance  of  the  tide  upon  a  rough  and  rocky  beach  to  the 
right.  To  the  left  of  the  harbour  there  is  some  kind  of  accommo- 
tion  for  ladies,  but  they  are  not  much  to  be  envied.  Swimmers 
find  it  best  to  take  a  boat ;  and  the  boatmen  have  an  open  eye  to 
profit  in  this  Arcadian  nook.  More  than  a  mile  to  the  right  there 
is  a  good  bathing-place  on  Sillery  Sands,  reached  by  a  very  rough 
path  from  the  beach.  On  the  other  side,  beyond  the  Valley  of 
Rocks,  a  dip  may  also  be  had  when  the  spot  is  not  occupied  hj 
lovers  of  the  beautiful.  Caution  is  always  necessary  with  an  out- 
going tide.  Trout-fishing  is  permitted  by  tickets  obtainable  at 
the  hotels  or  the  Lynmouth  Post-Office.  The  Exmoor  stag-hounds 
meet  within  easy  reach,  and  cub-hunting  begins  early  in  a  country 
that  gives  unusual  advantage  to  pedestrian  Nimrods.  Cyclists 
had  better  seek  less  breakneck  roads,  though  no  few  of  them  are 
seen  daring  the  steeps  of  North  Devon.  Cricket  has  found  an 
area  in  the  Valley  of  Rocks.  But  the  great  amusement  here  is 
simply  rambling  through  the  lovely  scenery  that  lies  around  in 
all  directions,  seen  at  its  best  when  robed  in  the  tender  green  of 
spring  or  the  glorious  tints  of  autumn,  yet  not  wholly  obscured  by 
the  shadow  of  a  commonly  mild  winter. 

Before  entering  on  a  description  of  those  rambles,  we  may  say  a 
word  as  to  the  comparative  advantage  of  taking  up  one's  quarters 
at  Lynton  or  at  Lynmouth,  "so  near  and  yet  so  far."  Each  has 
its  partisans.  Both  proclaim  an  exceedingly  low  death -rate; 
though  it  may  be  that  their  growth  will  destroy  the  freedom  from 
zymotic  diseases  they  now  enjoy.  Lynmouth,  in  its  sheltered 
position,  is  naturally  milder,  or,  as  its  adversaries  might  say,  more 
relaxing.  Lynton  is  more  open  and  airy.  The  great  lion  of 
Lynton  is  the  Valley  of  Rocks  ;  of  Lynmouth,  the  Watersmeet 
among  wooded  glens  through  which  the  sister  Lyns  make  such  a 
short  and  merry  life  of  it,  tumbling  their  eager  way  to  the  sea  in 
a  succession  of  cascades.  The  Lift  saves  one  the  steep  climb  up 
and  down,  which  in  either  case  would  else  add  to  the  fatigue  of  an 
excursion.  As  a  practical  point,  it  may  be  suggested  that  the  chief 
hotels  above  are  rather  more  expensive  than  those  below.  The  rest 
is  a  matter  of  taste.  If  bracing  breezes  please  you  rather,  with 
airy  prospects  and  rugged  cliff  scrambles,  you  will  find  yourself 
more  at  home  in  Lynton.  Lynmouth  will  better  suit  if  your 
choice  be  to  saunter  through  a  wilderness  of  deep  greenery, 
mounting  at  ease  the  streams  that  guide  to  the  bleak  uplands  of 
Exmoor.  But  from  either  hill  or  valley  you  will  soon  be  drawn 
on  to  the  charms  of  the  other ;  and,  wander  where  you  will,  you 


208  LYNTON    AND    LYNMOUTH 

cannot  go  wrong  for  well-nigh  a  surfeit  of  varied  loveliness, 
whether  in  the  morning  you  seek  the  dewy  banks  of  clear,  brown 
pools,  and  creaming  eddies,  and  foaming  swirls  round  moss-grown 
boulders,  and  pebbly  ripple-reaches  beneath  the  chequered  shade ; 
or  at  noonday  tramp  waist-high  among  gorse  and  fern  on  the 
purple  moors  ;  or  at  evening  watch  the  cliffs,  bathed  for  miles  in 
a  deepening  flush  of  sunset,  till  their  red  ribs  and  green  shoulders 
grow  together  into  one  sombre  brown,  and  dusk  hides  solemn 
outlines  as  well  as  bewitching  tints. 


WALKS  AROUND 

We  cannot  undertake  to  show  strangers  all  the  lovely 
walks  which  they  are  sure  to  find  out  for  themselves  if 
they  stay  long  enough  at  Lynton  or  Lynmouth  ;  but  we 
must  indicate  the  points  to  which  they  should  first  turn, 
giving  also  some  hints  for  extension  of  these  rambles ;  then 
will  come  an  account  of  the  favourite  excursions  on  either 
hand.  Not  the  least  beautiful  spots  lie  close  at  hand  or 
within  an  hour's  stroll  of  either  village. 

Footpaths  between  Lynton  and  Lynmouth.  —  Besides  the 
regular  road  between  Lynton  and  Lynmouth,  two  footpaths 
connect  the  villages,  both  charming,  twisting  steeply  up  the 
wooded  hillside,  for  the  most  part  within  sight  of  the  sea.  They 
give,  from  different  points,  lovely  views  of  Lynmouth,  with  its 
stream  and  harbour  lying  below,  of  the  bay  bounded  by  the  huge 
Foreland,  and  of  the  rich  West  Lyn  valley.  In  several  parts  the 
banks  on  either  side  are  literally  covered  with  the  hart's-tongue 
fern.  Both  are  reached  from  Lynton  by  the  lane  between 
the  Church  and  the  Valley  of  Rocks  Hotel,  which  leads  to  the 
North  Walk.  In  a  hundred  yards  or  so  the  first  path  turns  out  of 
this  to  the  right,  rapidly  descending  the  hill  by  a  series  of  zigzags. 
It  joins  the  main  road  a  hundred  yards  from  the  bottom,  just 
before  the  bridge  is  reached  crossing  the  West  Lyn.  The  other, 
perhaps  the  more  picturesque  of  the  two,  leaves  the  first  a  short 
distance  after  its  commencement,  turning  sharply  to  the  left,  and 
keeping  close  above  the  sea  in  its  descent.  It  comes  out  at  the 
entrance  to  the  harbour,  passing  the  pretty  row  of  cottages  by  the 
quayside,  and  terminating  at  the  pier. 

The  West  Lyn  Glen  opens  just  behind  the  village  in  the 
grounds  of  West  Lyn,  the  lodge  gates  of  which  are  opposite 


L.         WALKS  AROUND  LYNTON  AND  LYNMOUTH      209 

the  bridge.  Ar  small  charge  is  made  for  admission,  the 
money  collected  going  to  the  poor  of  the  place.  The  way 
leads  up  an  avenue  to  rocky  paths  running  beside  the 
stream,  where  a  whole  afternoon  may  be  spent  in  admiring 
its  numerous  cascades  and  rapids,  along  with  beautiful  nooks 
and  points  of  view  that  make  one  envy  the  owner  of  such  a 
scene.  Visitors  should  respect  his  liberality  by  avoiding  the 
side  paths  that  lead  to  the  house  and  its  more  private 
grounds.  At  the  top  of  the  glen  is  a  grand  waterfall,  to  be 
seen  at  its  best  after  rain.  The  distance  is  not  much  over 
half  a  mile,  in  which  the  river  falls  several  hundred  feet. 

Summerhouse  Hill  or  Lyn  Cleave  is  the  rocky  height 
dividing  the  East  and  West  Lyn  Valleys,  its  open  top 
raised  over  the  harbour  of  Lynmouth  and  the  two  glens, 
thus  giving  one  a  prospect  of  the  scenes  to  be  explored.  The 
zigzag  path  is  indicated  by  a  sign  near,  the  Lyndale  Hotel. 
Above,  one  can  range  eastward  along  the  heights  overlooking 
the  Watersmeet,  or  turn  down  in  the  other  direction,  through 
a  wood,  into  a  road  up  the  valley  of  the  West  Lyn.  The 
latter  path  (see  below)  is  the  easier  way  up,  and  the  best 
from  Lynton. 

To  Barbrook  Mill,  up  the  West  Lyn,  is  half  an  hour's  walk 
by  the  Barnstaple  road  from  Lynmouth.  If  one  leave  Lynton 
by  the  road  descending  to  Lynmouth,  this  should  be  quitted 
at  the  angle  of  the  first  zigzag,  to  keep  the  road  which  holds 
up  the  richly-wooded  stream. 


Three-quarters  of  a  mile  up,  a  hundred  yards  above  a  pretty 
mill,  a  small  stone  bridge  to  the  left  crosses  the  stream,  carrying 
the  road  to  Brendon  (p.  210).  Just  over  this  bridge  a  footpath 
strikes  off  through  the  woods  to  the  left,  leading  to  Summerhouse 
Hill  (see  above).  When  Barbrook  Mill  is  reached,  one  can  again 
strike  off  eastwards  over  the  heights  towards  Brciidon,  in  2  miles 
crossing  the  Hoarock  Water  (p.  210),  down  which  is  soon  reached 
the  Watersmeet.  The  high  road  mounts  on  to  Parraconibe  (p.  203) 
for  Barnstaple  ;  and  from  it  one  could  presently  turn  right  to  Lee 
(p.  211).  The  West  Lyn  would  be  our  guide  southwards  on  to 
the  moors,  dotted  here  with  tumuli  and  traces  of  hut  circles. 

U 


210  LYNTON    AND    LYNMOUTH 

The  Watersmeet  (2  miles)  is  famous  as  one  of  the  most 
romantic  spots  in  Devon.  To  the  right  past  the  Lyndale 
Hotel,  the  road  is  followed  by  the  side  of  the  East  Lyn, 
above  which  it  soon  mounts  to  a  considerable  height,  carried 
terrace-wise  along  the  side  of  the  valley,  with  charming  views 
of  the  winding  wooded  gorge  and  rapid  tumbling  river  below. 
The  pedestrian,  for  one  way  at  least,  should  follow  the 
waterside  by  crossing  the  Lyn  at  the  first  bridge,  an  orna- 
mental wooden  one,  after  leaving  Lynmouth,  and  keeping  a 
footpath  which  winds  along  through  the  woods  close  to  the 
stream  with  its  rapid  rushes,  creamy  brown  pools,  and  foaming 
swirls  to  move  the  heart  alike  of  artist  and  angler. 

This  path  leads  to  Watersmeet  House,  a  haven  of  refresh- 
ment, beside  the  deep  gulf  filled  with  greenery  that  is  the 
confluence  of  the  East  Lyn  and  the  Hoarock  Water.  There 
are  bridges  over  both  streams,  by  which  one  can  mount  to 
the  road  above. 

The  road  goes  on  up  the  Hoarock  Water,  coming  down  from  our 
right  as  we  ascend  its  course,  and  presently  dividing  as  two  streams. 
At  the  gate  of  Comhe  Park  there  is  a  parting  of  ways. 

That  to  the  left,  over  both  streams,  crosses  the  hill  to  the  Church 
of  Brendon  and  the  Rockford  Inn  (to  be  gained  also  by  a  rough 
path  up  the  East  Lrjn).  In  about  two  miles  this  road  leads  on  to 
the  village  of  Brendon,  from  which  there  is  a  road  home  by  Countis- 
hury  (p.  214).  Up  the  course  of  Farley  Water  (the  right  branch), 
one  could  reach  the  heights  of  Brendon  Common,  where,  to  the 
south  of  Brendon,  the  ground  rises  over  1300  feet. 

The  road  between  the  two  streams  also  leads  on  to  wild  heights, 
and  up  the  Hoarock  Water  (the  left  branch)  could  be  gained,  about  2 
miles  back,  that  called  Rohorough  Castle,  a  name  repeated  in  this 
vicinity.  To  the  west  of  this  a  lane  leads  back  northwards  over 
the  heights  between  the  two  Lyns. 

Just  short  of  Coinhe  Park,  a  way  turned  up  hill  to  Barhrook  in 
the  West  Lyn  Valley  (p.  209).  A  short  way  home  is,  at  the  first 
turn  of  this  road,  to  take  a  grassy  lane  mounting  to  an  open  down, 
from  which  there  is  a  grand  prospect  over  glens  and  uplands.  The 
lane  goes  through  two  farms,  beyond  the  second  making  a  crook  to 
the  left,  which  is  an  easier  way  than  trying  to  keep  the  rough 
edge  ;  and  thus  we  get  over  Summerhouse  Hill  (p.  209). 

Countisbury  is  the  village  and  church  ij  mile  up  the 
height  ascended  by  the  Porlock  road.      A  little  more  than  a 


WALKS, AROUND  LYNTON  AND  LYNMOUTH      211 

lile  from  Lynmouth,  and  some  half-mile  short  of  Countis- 
iiry,  a  cart-road  will  be  noticed  quitting  the  road  at  a  sharp 
igle  to  the  right.  This,  after  passing  through  an  interesting 
imp  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  with  ditch  and  rampart  still  quite 
istinguishable,  leads  by  a  pleasant  grass  path  down  the  slope 
^ain  to  Lynmouth,  keeping  200  feet  or  so  above  the  high 
)ad,  and  joining  it  again  a  quarter  of  a  mile  before  the  Lyn 
ridge  is  reached.  This  walk  keeps  the  sea  in  view  the 
hole  way.  By  continuing  along  the  high  road  200  or  300 
irds  beyond  the  turning  leading  to  the  camp,  towards 
ountisbury,  an  excellent  view  also  will  be  obtained  on  the 
ght,  up  the  deep  valley  of  the  East  Lyn  to  Watersmeet. 

The  Foreland. — By  a  walk  along  the  cliffs,  or  by  a 
irning  off  from  the  road  beyond  Countisbury  Church,  then 
y  tracks  over  the  turfy  down,  we  gain  this  boldly-projecting 
oint,  2^  miles  to  the  east  of  Lynmouth.  The  view  here  is 
ery  extensive,  and  there  is  a  lovely  valley  to  be  scrambled 
ito  for  a  sight  of  its  waterfall  over  the  cliff.  The  Foreland 
oint  is  pierced  by  several  caves,  which  can  be  visited,  with 
ue  precaution,  at  low  tides.  They  are  reached  from  the  bay 
nown  as  Sillery  Sands,  above  which  runs  the  cliff  path.  A 
ghthouse  is  being  built  on  the  Foreland  ;  and  the  Coast- 
iiard  Station  here  makes  a  far-seen  landmark. 

Lee  Abbey,  Valley  of  Rocks,  etc.  —  The  North 
Valh  is  the  terrace-way  of  more  than  a  mile,  cut  along 
le  steep  and  rocky  seaward  slope  of  the  hill  forming  the 
est  side  of  Lynmouth  Bay.  It  opens  from  Lynton  by  the 
irning  to  the  right  between  the  churchyard-wall  and  the 
"alley  of  Rocks  Hotel ;  from  Lynmouth  it  may  be  reached, 
ithout  passing  through  Lynton,  by  either  of  the  two  foot- 
aths  which  connect  the  two  villages.  Before  long  the 
alk  brings  us  past  a  fantastic  mass  of  rocks,  known  as 
Ragged  Jack"  To  this  group  has  been  attached  the  often- 
jpeated  legend  of  people  turned  into  stone  for  misconducting 
lemselves  on  Sunday.  Further  on  comes  a  conspicuous 
)nical  crag,  the  Castle  Rock,  which  may  be  ascended  by 
;ep8.     Past  the  Castle  Rock,  there  is  a  charming  little  rock- 


212  «        LYNTON    AND    LYNMOUTH 

bound  cove,  reached  by  a  path  which  zigzags  down  the  cliffs 
to  the  beach.  By  entering  Lee  Abbey  Park  beyond,  through 
which  there  is  a  right  of  way,  and  adding  a  short  half-mile 
to  the  walk,  Lee  Abbey,  with  its  picturesque  gateway-towei 
and  ivy-clad  walls,  can  be  seen. 

The  way  home  may  be  taken  on  the  other  side  of  the 
heights,  by  the  Valley  of  Rocks,  that  famous  arena,  though 
some  think  it  overpraised,  shut  in  between  the  Castle  Kock 
and  the  Devil's  Cheesewring,  which  will  be  remembered  as 
one  of  the  scenes  in  "  Lorna  Doone."  The  view  of  its  weird 
shadows  by  moonlight  is  much  admired,  and  at  any  time 
there  are  fine  rambles  over  the  rough  slopes  separating  it  from 
the  North  Walk.  The  valley  is  traversed  by  the  road  to 
Wooda  Bay  (see  below),  which  leaves  Lynton  past  the  Valley 
of  Kocks  Hotel. 

At  Lee  goes  off  to  the  left  a  road  that  makes  a  favourite 
driving  round  over  Caffini's  Down  to  the  Barnstaple  road. 


TO  WOODA  BAY,  HEDDON'S  MOUTH,  etc. 

Of  longer  excursions,  one  of  the  choicest  is  that  along  the 
coast  to  Heddon's  Mouth,  which  may  be  extended  to  Combe 
Martin,  where  it  falls  in  with  the  coach  road  to  Hfracombe. 
It  is  certainly  the  way  to  be  preferred  in  walking  eastward, 
the  first  part  of  the  coach  road  turning  inland.  The  distance 
is  about  the  same,  some  12  miles  to  Combe  Martin,  and  the 
roads  are  fair,  though  steep.  The  start  from  Lynton  is  made 
through  the  Valley  of  Kocks  and  past  Lee  Abbey,  whence 
the  way  lies  along  beautifully  embowered  terraces  into  the 
snug  bay  opening  an  hour's  walk  beyond  Lynton. 

Wooda  Bay  or  Woody  Bay  {Glen  Hotel)  is  a  lovely  nook, 
which  in  our  last  edition  we  could  speak  of  as  a  budding 
resort,  with  two  hotels,  golf  links,  pier,  eligible  building 
sites,  and  a  station  2  miles  away.  These  hopes  have  been 
blighted  by  a  strange  vicissitude  of  fortune,  which  this  is 
not  the  place  to  record.  The  proprietor  now  in  power  has 
set  his  face  against  the  developments  fostered  by  his  pre- 


p 


THE    HEDDON    VALLEY  213 


decessor  ;  and  Lynton  sojourners  may  thank  him  for  wishing 
to  preserve  this  nook  in  its  natural  beauty.  The  pier  has 
gone  to  ruin  ;  one  of  the  hotels  has  been  closed  ;  and  little 
more  than  a  group  of  villas  remains  as  the  tombstones  of  ^an 
ambitious  design. 

Onward  from  Wooda  Bay  the  old  road  strikes  inland  over 
the  height  where  perches  the  village  of  Martinshoe  with 
its  tiny  church,  then  it  descends  to  the  Heddon  Valley  at  the 
Hunter's  Inn  (under  2  miles).  It  is  little  further  to  walk 
round  by  the  cliffs,  one  path  going  past  the  Glen  Hotel,  to 
be  joined  by  another  from  the  lower  part  of  the  bay  ;  there 
is  also  a  new  road  taking  the  same  line  over  the  lofty 
Beacon  topping  the  sea  edge.  At  High  Veer  Point,  the  path 
turns  into  a  gorge,  and  from  its  height  looks  grandly  down 
upon  Heddon's  Mouth,  the  rock-strewn  beach  where  the 
Heddon  or  Parracombe  Water  reaches  the  sea,  between 
steep  banks  of  striated  turf  and  scree,  a  scene  judged  by  Mr. 
Blackmore  far  finer  than  the  better-known  Valley  of  Kocks. 
The  path  drops  down  to  the  stream,  at  the  mouth  of  which 
comes  a  footbridge ;  then  up  either  bank  it  is  a  charming 
mile's  walk  to  the  Hunter's  Inn,  that  red-roofed  hostelry 
that  in  its  new  pretensions  shows  a  pride  aping  humility  in 
keeping  to  its  old  name. 

Hence  the  road  climbing  the  wooded  height  westward  leads  in 
a  mile  or  so  to  Trentishoe,  by  which  is  the  shortest  way  to  Combe 
Martin  (p.  197).  The  road  up  the  valley  leads  in  about  2  miles  to 
the  Lynton-Barnstaple  high  road,  near  Parracombe  (p.  203).  This 
might  be  gained  at  more  than  one  point  nearer  Lynton  by  taking 
the  hill  road  eastward  and  avoiding  its  descents  on  the  left  to 
Wooda  Bay. 


THE    SOMERSET   SIDE 

Before  leaving  this  corner  of  Devon,  we  are  bound  to  say 
something  of  favourite  excursions  which  would  take  us  into 
the  neighbouring  county  and  on  to  Exmoor.  The  road  by 
which  we  came  from  Minehead  (p.  204)  is  renowned  for  its 


214  ^         LYNTON    AND    LYNMOUTH 

lofty  prospects;  and  one  has  the  help  of  the  coach  in  taking 
it  over  the  steep  12  miles  to  Porlock,  an  ancient  village  in 
a  bay  sheltered  by  wooded  hills,  within  a  few  miles'  reach  of 
which  is  the  ascent  of  Dunkery  Beacon  (1709  feet),  the 
highest  point  on  Exmoor.  A  good  walker  might  take  the 
road  to  Porlock  and  return  by  the  cliff  path. 

Without  going  so  far,  there  are  two  notable  points  lying 
on  either  side  of  the  County  Gate,  represented  by  a  cottage 
between  4  and  5  miles  out,  on  the  long  ascent  of  Oare  Hill. 
This  point  itself  is  over  1000  feet  above  the  sea. 

Glenthome,  on  the  shore  below,  is  a  mansion  celebrated 
for  its  beautiful  grounds  and  woods,  which  by  the  proprietor's 
liberality  have  long  been  open  to  visitors,  though  the  house 
is  not  shown.  The  entrance  is  by  a  white  gate  on  the  main 
road  near  the  county  boundary,  for  carriages,  and  a  black 
gate,  not  far  off,  for  pedestrians.  So  steep  is  the  descent  of 
less  than  a  mile  that  the  drive  makes  3  miles  of  bending,  to 
be  halved  by  a  footpath  cutting  off  the  zigzags,  above 
which  rises  the  bold  camp  of  Oldharrow,  overlooking  a  noble 
prospect. 

One  can  take  a  longer  way  back,  walking  round  the  cliffs  by  the 
Foreland  (p.  211),  where  the  distance  is  reduced  to  about  7  miles  by 
cutting  across  the  back  of  this  point,  to  join  the  high  road  at 
Countishury  ChiLrch,  or  regain  the  cliff  path  above  the  Sillery 
Sands. 

Below  the  County  Gate,  on  the  inland  side,  lies  Malms- 
mead  Bridge,  across  the  Badgeworthy  Water  (locally 
Badgery),  forming  the  border  of  Devon  and  Somerset,  and 
here  falling  into  the  East  Lyn,  which  above  becomes  known 
as  the  Oare  Water.  A  rather  longer  way  is  up  the  East 
Lyn,  by  the  road  passing  the  Watersmeet  to  Brendon  (p.  210), 
or  so  far  one  might  trace  on  foot  the  windings  of  the  river. 
The  nucleus  of  Brendon  is  MiUslade  with  its  Staghuntei^s 
Inn;  and  this  much- visited  valley  again  affords  refreshment 
at  Malmsmead  Bridge,  2  miles  further  on.  More  than  one 
charming  byway  connects  the  winding  valley  road  with  the 
Porlock  high  road  above.     In  Somerset,  across  the  bridge,  a 


f;  "lorna  doone"  215 

short  mile  of  road  leads  to  Oare,  with  its  little  church  in  a 
wood,  celebrated  by  the  experiences  of  "  John  Eidd."  The 
Snowe  family  mentioned  in  the  novel  and  commemorated 
in  the  church  still  flourishes  here,  as  it  has  done  from  almost 
immemorial  days,  and  Mr.  Blackmore  seems  to  have  had 
their  house  in  his  eye  for  the  giant  hero's. 

"Lorna  Doone  "  would  not  be  such  a  charming  story  but  for  its 
author's  imagination  ;  some  of  its  incidents,  however,  have  a 
foundation  in  fact.  The  feats  of  "great  John  Ridd"  are  vaguely 
traditional  in  the  district ;  and  in  the  grounds  of  Oare  House  are 
the  lower  limbs  of  an  ash  tree  said  to  have  been  bent  down  by  his 
strength.  The  Doones  were  a  family  of  reckless  outlaws  who  from 
this  Adullam  infested  Exmoor  about  two  centuries  ago,  and  were 
not  got  rid  of  till,  by  a  peculiarly  barbarous  murder  at  Exford, 
they  drove  the  country-folk  to  exasperation.  Another  sinister 
hero  of  this  wild  region,  also  figuring,  rather  too  favourably,  we 
fear,  in  "Lorna  Doone,"  was  Tom  Faggus,  the  highwayman,  who 
still  lives  dimly  in  popular  memory  as  a  kind  of  cross  between 
Dick  Turpin  and  Robin  Hood. 

The  Doone  Valley  on  Badgeworthy  Water  is  often  sought  out 
by  visitors,  who  are  apt  to  be  disappointed  by  what  they  find 
here,  after  the  heightened  picture  of  the  romance.  It  lies  under 
Badgeworthy  Hill,  an  hour's  walk  above  Malmsmead  Bridge,  on 
the  left  side  of  the  stream.  A  refreshment  house  on  the  way  is 
called  Lorna's  Bower.  One  keeps  up  the  stream  to  a  wood  of  oak 
trees,  beside  which  a  tributary  tumbles  down  a  glen  over  a  series  of 
tiny  falls.  This  is  John  Ridd's  "  Waterslide,"  which  can  be  more 
easily  tracked  upwards  than  in  his  case.  Crossing  it  by  a  bridge 
the  path  leads  on  for  about  a  mile  ;  then  one  turns  on  the  right 
by  another  brook  into  a  side  combe  where  a  single  cottage  looks 
down  on  the  Doone  Houses,  or  rather  hovels,  that  at  no  time  can 
have  been  anything  but  the  roughest  dwellings,  and  are  now  little 
more  than  a  trace  of  ruined  enclosures.  It  is  quite  easy  to  get  out 
upon  the  moor  beyond,  where  by  a  tale-teller's  license  Mr.  Black- 
more  has  made  the  difficulty  of  egress  and  ingress  worthy  of  a 
hero.  To  find  one's  way  back  to  the  East  Lyn  over  Brendon  Com- 
mon is  more  difficult ;  and  those  who  cannot  trust  to  map  and 
compass  had  better  return  to  the  safe  course  of  the  Badgeworthy 
Water. 

Exmoor. — Most  of  this  wild  upland,  a  smaller  Dartmoor 
of  some  20,000  acres,  lies  in  Somerset,  and  we  can  only  afford 
space  for  glimpses  of  it  on  the  first  stage  of  the  highway 
crossing  it  to  Dulverton  (26  miles).     This  again  is  the  road 


216  THE    SOMERSET    SIDE 

up  the  East  Lyn  by  the  Watersmeet,  but  beyond,  turning 
south  to  mount  by  Brendon  Barton  and  Farley  Hill.  In 
about  6  miles,  at  Brendon  Two  Gates,  it  enters  Somerset, 
and  runs  high  over  the  wildest  part  of  Exmoor.  Three 
or  four  miles  further,  in  the  Barle  valley,  comes  what 
may  be  called  the  capital  of  this  huge  parish,  Simonsbath 
(Rufus  Hotel),  a  pleasantly  and  loftily  situated  village,  well 
known  to  anglers,  and  a  good  centre  for  exploring  Exmoor. 

The  name  is  said  to  come  from  an  outlaw,  some  prehistoric  Tom 
Faggus,  who  is  supposed  to  have  swum  in  the  deep  pool  above  the 
bridge  of  the  Barle  ;  but  a  more  recondite  derivation  connects  it 
with  Sigmund  the  dragon-slayer.  The  place  has  less  dim  memories 
of  Tom  Faggus  himself,  the  dubious  hero  of  the  district.  Among 
its  lines  of  beech-trees  reared  against  the  moorland  blasts,  it  makes 
an  oasis  of  shade  and  gi-een,  testifying  to  efforts  at  improvement 
made  by  the  Knight  family,  former  proprietors  of  Exmoor  ;  but 
their  unfinished  mansion,  which  is  the  principal  building,  hints 
at  a  confession  of  failure.  The  Church  is  a  modern  one,  built  by 
this  family,  who  bought  the  whole  moor  nearly  a  hundred  years 
ago,  and  spent  large  sums  in  trying  to  reclaim  it,  seldom  even 
with  such  success  as  appears  about  this  village.  It  now  belongs  to 
the  Fortescue  family. 

The  blunt  swellings  of  the  Somerset  wilderness  seldom  rise  to 
picturesque  points  like  the  Tors  of  Dartmoor  ;  yet  Exmoor  too  has 
impressive  features,  and  beautiful  spots  in  the  deepening  course  of 
its  streams.  North-westward  from  Simonsbath  extends  the  boggy 
tract  known  as  the  Chains,  from  which  drain  the  sources  of  tbe 
Exe  and  the  Barle.  To  the  north-west  of  its  central  barrow, 
Pinkery  Pond,  an  artificial  piece  of  water,  is  notable  as  the  only 
thing  like  a  lake  on  Exmoor.  A  little  west  of  this,  presently 
turning  along  the  north  side  of  the  Chains,  runs  the  fence  called 
the  County  Wall,  making  a  right  angle  by  which  one  might  regain 
the  high  road  at  Two  Gates,  about  a  mile  to  the  west  of  which  is 
the  source  known  as  Exe  Head.  Outside  of  the  angle,  a  little  to 
the  west  of  the  County  AVall,  are  reached  Chapman  Barrows  (about 
1600  feet)  in  the  Devonshire  corner  of  the  moor,  here  dotted  with 
tumuli  and  other  signs  of  antiquity,  such  as  the  Longstone,  a  pillar 
9  feet  high,  w^hose  history  is  unknown.  Beyond,  one  could  come 
down  to  Parracombe,  on  the  Lynton-Barnstaple  road  (p.  203). 

West  from  Simonsbath  a  road  leads  in  about  4  miles  to  the 
County  Wall,  then  nearly  2  miles  south-west  is  Showlsborough 
Castle  (1528  feet),  a  Roman  camp,  guarding  this  side  of  the  moor, 
with  another  fine  view  over  Devonshire,  whose  first  village,  Challa- 
combe,  lies  beyond.  Showlsborough  is  one  point  of  a  ridge  along 
this  side  of  the  moor,  by  which  one  may  steer  an  arduous  course 


i 


THE    SOMERSET    SIDE  21' 


north  to  Lynton,  7  or  8  miles  in  a  straight  line.  From  the 
angle  of  the  County  Wall,  a  pretty  direct  way  goes  down  to 
the  West  Lyn  Valley  at  Barhrook  Mill  (p.  209). 

If  the  wary  pedestrian  followed  the  County  Wall  eastward  from 
the  high  road,  in  about  3  miles  he  would  strike  the  head  streams 
of  the  Badgeworthy  Water  (p.  214)  to  guide  him  down  to  the  East 
Lyn. 

The  Exe  and  the  Barle  flowing  south-eastward  in  roughly  parallel 
courses  till  they  converge  below  Dulverton,  are  lines  over  Exmoor 
to  the  Devon  and  Somerset  railway  on  its  south  side  (p.  181). 


BIDEFORD    AND    TORRINGTON 


BARNSTAPLE  TO  BIDEFORD 

Anotlier  branch  of  tlie  L.  &  S.-W.  R.  runs  on  from 
Barnstaple  Junction  through  Bideford  to  Torrington,  at  pre- 
sent its  terminus,  though  a  connection  with  the  Plymouth 
line  across  the  Torridge  country  has  been  talked  of  for  long. 
The  best  road  (9  miles),  if  not  quite  the  shortest,  to  Bideford, 
keeps  near  the  railway,  beside  the  estuary  of  the  Taw  river  ; 
and  after  passing  Instow,  ascends  the  bank  of  the  Torridge 
to  Bideford  Bridge.  These  broad  and  winding  tidal  rivers, 
surrounded  by  gently  undulating  hills  and  rich  woods,  make 
a  pretty  picture  at  high  tide  ;  but  the  railway  time-tables 
are  naturally  not  arranged  to  show  them  always  in  their 
best  aspect.  At  Fremington  (3  miles  from  Barnstaple)  the 
Taw  gets  clear  of  its  sandbanks,  and  deepens  into  an  arm  of 
the  sea.  Three  miles  further  comes  Instow,  and,  just  be- 
yond, Instow  Quay,  at  the  meeting-point  of  the  two  rivers, 
the  Taw  and  the  Torridge.  There  are  stations  both  at 
Fremington  and  Instow  Quay.  The  latter  is  a  small  water- 
ing-place {Marine  Hotel\  with  lodging-houses  and  good  sands 
for  children. 

Across  the  water,  at  Fremington,  appear  Heanton  Court  (p.  185) 
and  the  tower  of  Heanton  Punchardon  Church,  beyond  which 
is  the  point  covered  by  Braunton  Burrows  (p.  186).  Opposite 
Instow,  the  two  little  towns  looking  at  each  other  with  white- 
washed faces,  lies  the  quaint  old  seaport  of  Appledore  (p.  224),  on 
the  point  of  land  jutting  out  into  the  broad  estuary  of  the  Taw, 
above  the  Bar  which  mariners  have  here  to  reckon  with.     There 

218 


BIDEFORD  219 

is  a  ferry  between  Appledore  and  Instow  Quay.  The  prominent 
tower  beyond  Appledore  is  not  any  historical  monument,  but  a 
"Folly."  Further  back  in  the  country  will  be  seen  a  more 
romantic-looking  ruin,  which  is  only  a  dilapidated  windmill,  left 
there  as  a  sea-mark,  serving  also  to  call  attention  to  Bloody  Corner, 
not  far  from  it,  where  King  Alfred  defeated  the  Danes  under 
Hubba. 

From  Instow  to  Bideford  is  3  miles  up  the  bank  of  the 
Torridge,  below  rising  ground  on  which  stands  the  village  of 
Westleigh. 

On  the  opposite  bank,  a  glimpse  of  its  ship-repairing 
hamlet  Cleavehouses,  warns  us  that  we  are  approaching  Bide- 
ford. 


BIDEFORD 

Hotels :  Royal,  at  the  station  ;  The  New  Inn,  above  the  town  ;  Tanton's, 
Kingsley  Temperance,  etc. 

By-the-Ford,  with  its  present  population  of  some  9000, 
was  once  a  wealthy  and  important  seaport  town  ;  and 
in  the  reign  of  Queen  Bess  none  were  more  forward,  even 
amongst  the  intrepid  men  of  Devon,  than  they  of  Bide- 
ford, in  voyages  of  discovery  and  adventure.  After  a  period 
of  decadence,  it  now  takes  on  a  fresh  air  of  prosperity,  not  a 
little  of  which  it  owes  to  Charles  Kingsley' s  famous  novel 
attracting  so  many  tourists. 

"  Westward  Ho  ! "  is  read  here  as  religiously  as  "  Lorna  Doone  " 
at  Lynton  ;  and  what  Scott  was  to  Perthshire,  Kingsley  is  to  this 
side  of  Devon.  It  may,  then,  seem  superfluous  to  quote  his 
account  of  "the  little  white  town  of  Bideford,  sloping  upwards 
from  its  broad  tide-river,  paved  with  yellow  sands,  and  many- 
arched  old  bridge,  where  salmon  wait  for  autumn  floods,  toward 
the  pleasant  upland  on  the  west.  Above  the  town  the  hills  close 
in,  cushioned  with  deep  oak  woods,  through  which  juts  here  and 
there  a  crag  of  fern-fringed  slate  ;  below  they  lower,  and  open 
more  and  more  in  softly-rounded  knolls  and  fertile  squares  of  red 
and  green,  till  they  sink  into  the  wide  expanse  of  hazy  flats,  rich 
salt  marshes,  and  rolling  sand-hills,  where  Torridge  joins  her  sister 
Taw,  and  both  together  flow  quietly  toward  the  broad  surges  of 
the  bar,  and  the  everlasting  thunder  of  the  long  Atlantic's  swell." 


220  »  BIDEFORD 

"  Westward  Ho  !  "  was  in  part  written  in  what  is  now  the 
Royal  Hotel,  adjoining  the  station,  the  owner  of  which  possessed 
a  collection  of  rare  works  consulted  both  by  Kingsley  and  the  late 
Mr.  Froude.  This  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  houses  in  Bide- 
ford,  incorporating  portions  of  the  original  structure,  which 
belonged  to  a  tobacco  merchant  of  the  17th  century.  More  than 
one  of  the  rooms  have  line  ceilings  ornamented  with  fruit,  foliage, 
etc.,  in  relief,  the  Italian  workmanship  of  which  is  well  worth 
inspection.  Visitors  who  can  afford  to  pay  for  such  accommoda- 
tion may  occupy  the  lordly  chamber  in  which  the  novelist  wrote. 
The  old  oak  staircase  leads  up  from  a  covered  courtyard  in  con- 
tinental style  ;  and  the  billiard  room  opens  on  to  the  platform  of 
the  station,  so  that  here  the  17th  and  the  19th  centuries  are 
closely  joined. 

From  the  suburb  about  the  station,  known  as  "  East  the 
Water,"  we  look  over  the  long  bridge,  with  its  twenty-four 
arches,  upon  the  Quay  that  makes  the  face  of  the  town,  its 
streets  sloping  steeply  upwards.  The  "  Old  Ship "  tavern 
here  claims  to  be  the  original  hostelry  in  which  was  founded 
that  "  Brotherhood  of  the  Eose."  The  Castle  Inn  occupies 
the  site  of  Sir  Eichard  Grenville's  town  house.  The  most 
striking  structure  is  the  Bridge  Hall,  built  by  the  Bridge 
Trust,  whose  endowments  have  made  it  such  an  important 
corporation.  This  contains  the  School  of  Science  and  Art 
and  the  Free  Library,  in  which  are  displayed  two  autograph 
letters  of  Charles  Kingsley.  The  Toivn  Hall  opposite  is 
not  an  old  building,  but  a  good  imitation  of  one. 

Eather  hidden  away  behind  this  we  find  the  Church, 
which  dates  from  early  in  the  14th  century,  but  was  rebuilt 
in  1865,  with  the  exception  of  the  tower,  70  feet  high.  It 
contains  a  circular  Norman  font,  and  the  tomb  and  figure  of 
Sir  Thomas  Graunfyld  (died  1513),  also  a  brass  erected  by 
one  of  his  descendants  to  the  gallant  Sir  Eichard  Grenville, 
and  some  fine  modern  glass,  notably  the  window  in  the 
south  aisle  to  the  memory  of  Sir  George  Stucley's  wife. 
Another  noticeable  monument  is  to  John  Strange,  a  17th- 
century  worthy  of  Bideford,  who  died  fighting  the  plague — 
a  worse  enemy  than  the  Spaniard.  The  old  oak  car\ings 
have  almost  all  disappeared.  The  churchyard  is  rich  in 
curious  epitaphs. 

The  other  streets  have  not  much  architectural  pretension. 


BIDEFORD  221 

The  High  Street,  where  the  Post-Office  and  the  best  shops 
are,  leads  up  from  the  Quay,  a  little  below  the  bridge.  Mill 
Street,  another  main  thoroughfare,  rather  narrow  and  crooked, 
runs  parallel  to  the  Quay,  going  out  as  the  road  to  Westward 
Ho.  The  Quay  is  continued  as  a  pleasant  walk  along  the 
riverside,  past  a  little  park  where  in  summer  Bideford  pro- 
vides music  for  its  visitors.  The  old  guns  kept  on  the  river- 
side are  believed  to  be  possibly  relics  of  the  Spanish  Armada. 
Above  the  bridge  the  town  soon  comes  to  an  end,  where 
the  winding  river,  enclosed  between  wooded  banks,  might  at 
high  water  be  taken  for  a  landlocked  lake.  Boating  is  to  be 
had  here  by  studying  the  tide,  for  at  low  water  the  channel 
shrinks  between  wide  flats  of  sand  or  mud.  With  the  tide 
boats  can  go  up  the  Yeo,  a  tributary  falling  into  the  left 
bank  of  the  Torridge,  some  2  miles  above  Bideford. 

A  fine  view  of  the  river  is  commanded  on  the  other  side  from 
Chiodleigh  Fort,  the  remains  of  an  entrenchment  of  the  Civil  War 
time,  overlooking  the  town  above  the  railway,  and  reached  by  a 
private  road  from  the  station.  In  this  direction  one  might  hold  on 
some  three  miles  to  the  ancient  Church  of  Horwood,  which  lies  a 
little  off  the  right  of  the  shorter  inland  road  to  Barnstaple. 

There  are  good  views  also  from  the  heights  on  the  west  side. 
An  excuse  for  a  walk  here  would  be  a  visit  to  Littleham  (2  m. ), 
which  is  reached  by  different  ways,  the  most  simple  perhaps  being 
to  take  the  road  past  the  cemetery  indicated  by  a  guide-post ;  but 
a  finer  walk  is  by  the  third  turning  up  from  the  high  road  skirting 
the  left  bank  of  the  river  upwards,  on  to  heights  that  widely 
overlook  the  estuary  ;  or  for  part  of  the  way  one  may  go  through 
Sir  George  Stucley's  drive.  The  attraction  at  Littleham  is  a 
splendid  Church,  recently  restored  and  sumptuously  adorned. 
The  carved  oak  screen  is  a  reproduction  of  the  original  one. 
Another  striking  ornament  is  the  marble  altar-tomb  to  General 
Crealock. 

The  excursion  least  likely  to  be  missed  here  is  that  to 
Westward  Ho,  which  might  be  called  a  suburb  or  dependency 
of  Bideford,  facing  the  open  sea  on  the  other  side  of  the  point 
ended  by  Northam  Burrows.  From  the  lower  end  of  the 
Quay,  a  short  railway  now  runs  to  Northam  by  Westward  Ho. 
There  are  also  omnibuses  from  Bideford  Station.  By  road 
the  distance  is  over  3  miles,  but  a  pleasanter  footway  reduces 
it  one-third. 


222 


BIDEFORD 


Leaving  the  town  by  Mill  Street,  as  soon  as  the  Northam  Road 
has  crossed  a  pretty  valley,  shut  in  by  wooded  heights,  we  find  a 
road  turn  up  to  the  left  with  a  direction-post  for  Westward  Ho. 


IValkcr  &  Boutall  i 


Plan  of  Westward  Ho,  showing  the  position  of  the  Golf  Links  on  the 
Burrows,  and  the  relative  positions  of  Northam,  Bideford,  and  Barnstaple. 

About  100  yards  up  this  road,  where  the  telegraph  wire  also  goes 
off,  the  pedestrian  should  take  a  path  to  the  right  that  in  ten 
minutes  will  bring  him  through  fields  to  a  road,  along  which  a 
short  turn  to  the  right  puts  him  once  more  under  charge  of  a  guide- 
post.  Further  up  the  road  there  is  another  guide-post,  but  he  is  now 
in  sight  of  the  first  houses  of  Buckleigh,  the  upper  part  of  Westward 
Ho,  built  on  a  cliff,  from  which  he  soon  looks  down  on  the  rest  of 
the  place  scattered  along  the  sloping  shore  as  far  as  the  edge  of 
the  golf  links  that  have  made  its  fortune. 


WESTWARD  HO 


Hotels :  Royal,  Pebble  Ridge,  Fosketh's  Private  Hotel,  Tonndge  House,  etc. 


This  resort,  which  had  the  happy  thought  of  christening 
itself  from  the  novel,  is  a  watering-place  of  quite  unique 
character,  inhabited  mainly  by  retired  "  captains  and  colonels 
and  knights-at-arms,"  Anglo-Indians,  grass  and  grey  widows 
of  gentility,  and  other  persons  connected  with  the  Services, 
who  find  here  congenial  society  and  healthful  retreat.  The 
nucleus  of  the  place  is  the  United  Service  College,  at  first 
limited  to  offi.cers'  sons,  but  afterwards  opened  to  laymen  at 
rather  higher  rates.  The  main  interest,  apart  from  educa- 
tion, is  golf,  which,  besides  reigning  supreme  at  its  own  club- 
house on  the  links,  is  accused  of  too  much  invading  the  other 


WESTWARD    HO  223 

social  cercle  also.  You  can  live  at  Westward  Ho  without 
playing  golf,  but  you  might  as  well  stay  away  without 
a  proper  introduction  into  its  society.  The  best  passport  is 
membership  of  the  golf  club  ;  and  any  military  or  naval 
family  who  have  the  least  acquaintance  here  will  quickly  be 
received  with  open  arms.  In  summer  there  are  some 
temporary  visitors,  but  for  them  the  accommodation  of 
lodging-  and  boarding-houses  is  rather  scanty,  and  much  run 
upon  by  the  golfers. 

Among  the  lines  and  groups  of  villas  inhabited  by  this 
colony  several  buildings  are  prominent.  The  first  reached 
by  the  road  to  Northam  is  the  College,  built  to  be  a  terrace 
before  it  was  turned  into  a  school.  Beyond  are  the  buildings 
of  a  more  unfortunate  institution — the  Kingsley  Memorial 
College — which  stands  with  broken  windows,  a  memorial  of 
failure,  sadly  at  a  loss  what  to  do  with  itself,  though  various 
projects  have  been  set  on  foot  for  turning  it  to  account. 
Then  comes  the  Royal  (formerly  Westward  Ho)  Hotel,  beyond 
which,  on  the  shore,  a  curious-looking  building,  ended  by  a 
low  tower,  is  the  Nassau  Swimming  Bath. 

Hence,  turning  back  eastwards  along  the  shore,  we  come 
to  another  building  known  as  the  Ladies^  Baths,  which  serves 
chiefly  as  refreshment  rooms  for  excursion  parties.  A  little 
further  along  begins  the  famous  Pebble  Kidge,  2  miles  or 
more  long,  which  forms  the  bulwark  of  Northam  Burrows, 
recalling  in  the  size  and  smoothness  of  its  stones  the  no-less- 
famous  Chesil  Beach  at  Portland.  Not  even  such  a  bulwark 
can  defy  the  seas  which  sometimes  roll  against  it ;  the  Ridge 
has  been  altered  in  shape  and  position  within  our  own  day,  and 
is  said  to  have  been  thrown  back  several  yards  in  one  night. 
Beyond  it  lies  buried  a  submerged  forest,  petrified  remains 
from  which  may  be  seen  at  the  Athenaeum  of  Barnstaple. 
Behind  extend  the  Golf  Links,  the  club-house  now  built  well 
inland,  after  having  been  once  driven  back  by  the  invading 
waves.  This  fine  course  rivals  that  of  St.  Andrews,  and  has 
mainly  been  the  making  of  Westward  Ho.  The  hazards 
chiefly  consist  of  big  bunkers,  tall  rushes,  and  small  water- 
channels,  dry  in  summer.  One  advantage  the  Westward  Ho 
Links  certainly  have  over  other  Devonian  ones,  in  lying  low 


224  BIDEFORD 

and  requiring  no  preliminary  toil  of  climbing  on  the  part  of 
eager  but  elderly  players. 

From  Westward  Ho,  if  a  longer  walk  were  desired,  one 
could  pleasantly  return  to  Bideford  by  turning  south  to 
Gornborough  and  Abbotsham  Glifs,  thence  inland  by  Abbots- 
ham,  where  there  is  a  church  worth  seeing :  this  would  be 
a  round  of  about  5  miles.  But  the  opportunity  might  as 
well  be  taken  to  visit  Northam  and  Appledore  in  the  other 
direction,  about  a  mile  lying  between  each  of  these  places. 
From  Westward  Ho,  the  straightest  way  to  Appledore  is 
across  Northam  Burrows  ;  but  after  running  the  gauntlet  of 
golf  balls,  one  comes  into  a  marshy  tract  more  fit  for  the 
geese  of  the  Northam  "  pot- wallopers."  We  can  go  through 
Northam  by  two  roads,  one  leading  under,  the  other  above 
the  cliff. 

Northam,  to  which  parish  Westward  Ho  belongs,  is 
chiefly  interesting  to  us  as  the  imaginary  home  of  Amyas 
Leigh  and  burial-place  of  Salvation  Yeo.  The  Church  has 
been  rebuilt  since  their  day,  and  so  has  Burrough  House,  a 
little  way  out  towards  the  estuary.  In  the  village  a  grass 
mound  is  said  to  mark  the  burial-place  of  the  slain  in  a  great 
battle  between  Saxon  and  Dane  ;  and  on  the  way  to 
Appledore  is  Bloody  Corner,  where  Alfred  did  defeat  the 
Danes  under  Hubba,  unless  Stogursey  in  Somerset  can  make 
good  its  claim  to  be  the  scene  of  this  event.  A  pillar  marks 
the  spot,  not  far  from  that  ruined  mill  already  mentioned  as 
a  landmark.  On  the  shore  is  a  rock  known  as  the  Hubbastone, 
where  Devonshire  men  believe  that  the  Danish  chieftain 
landed  to  find  a  tomb. 

Appledore,  so  lovingly  dwelt  on  by  the  author  of 
"  Westward  Ho  ! "  is  a  quaint  old  home  of  sea-dogs,  with 
narrow  cobbled  streets  and  alleys  running  down  to  the  water 
edge,  where  the  place  has  a  very  nautical  air,  not  to  speak  of 
the  smells.  It  strikes  one  as  being  now,  on  a  smaller  scale, 
what  Bideford  may  have  been  in  its  palmy  days.  The 
smart,  fresh  look  old  Appledore  presents  from  the  opposite 
bank  hardly  bears  closer  examination,  but  is  resolved  into 
another  form  of  picturesqueness,  while  the  new  parts  are 


TORRINGTON  225 

clean  and  commonplace  enough.  A  good  deal  of  ship- 
building and  repairing  go  on  here,  but  there  is  little  to 
interest  the  mere  landsman  except  the  views  from  above. 

We  may  hence  cross  to  Instow  Quay  by  the  ferry  (p.  218) 
and  walk  up  the  other  side  of  the  river  to  Bideford  Station 
(3  miles),  or  else  return  by  the  road  through  Northam,  about 
the  same  distance,  with  the  chance  of  an  omnibus  on  the  way. 
Any  one  who  has  the  bump  of  locality  will  have  little 
difficulty  in  leaving  the  road  to  find  his  way  by  paths  nearer 
the  water,  leading  through  fields  to  the  hamlet  of  Cleave- 
houses,  beyond  which  begins  the  river  walk  from  the  Quay. 
Yet  the  road,  rather  shut  in  as  it  is,  may  prove  the  shorter 
cut  in  the  end. 


TORRINGTON 

Globe  Hotel ;  Hcdsdon  Private  Hotel,  etc. 

This  is  another  place  which  no  one  should  fail  to  visit 
from  Bideford.  It  is  seven  miles  up  the  river,  the  terminus 
of  the  railway,  which  gives  only  tantalising  glimpses  of  those 
lovely  banks.  There  is  a  choice  of  roads ;  the  one  to  be  re- 
commended being  that  along  the  left  bank,  which  presently 
crosses  the  mouth  of  the  Yeo  to  strike  up  a  hill,  but  in 
general  runs  fairly  level  between  the  wooded  heights  and  the 
river  whose  windings  it  follows  more  or  less  faithfully.  The 
return  from  Torrington  might  be  made  either  on  the  right 
side,  or  by  a  slight  circuit  on  the  heights  above  the  left  bank 
so  as  to  pass  the  ruins  of  Frithelstock,  an  Augiistinian 
Priory,  then  Monkleigh  with  its  prominent  church  tower, 
and  so  down  through  Landcross  to  the  river. 

The  Yeo  bridge,  then  the  village  of  Landcross,  supposed 
birthplace  of  General  Monk,  left  behind  on  the  river  road, 
through  the  trees  above  there  is  a  glimpse  of  Annery,  one  of 
the  mansions  celebrated  in  "  Westward  Ho  ! "  then  half-way 
to  Torrington  comes  a  fine  view  of  Wear  Gifford  on  the 
further  bank,  to  be  reached  by  a  toll  bridge,  or  from  the 
old  Torrington  Road  running  behind  it.  From  our  road 
opposite,  the  grey  ivied  pile  of  the  Hall,  the  Church,  and  the 

15 


226  ^  TORRINGTON 

Rectory  make  a  very  striking  group.  The  interior  of  the 
house  is  not  shown  to  the  public,  but  the  tourist  would  be 
fortunate  who  could  come  by  a  sight  of  its  tapestried 
chambers  and  the  elaborately  carved  roof  of  the  hall.  The 
Strawberry  Gardens  of  Wear  Gifford  are  open  to  him. 

Three  miles  more  bring  us  to  the  station  of  Great 
Torrington,  as  its  full  style  is,  Little  Torrington  lying  to 
the  south.  A  short  cut  is  made  by  taking  the  last  mile  or 
so  along  the  line  ;  but  we  are  not  quite  sure  how  far  the 
L.  &  S.-W.  R.  Co.  consent  to  this  convenience.  The  station 
stands  a  good  part  of  a  mile  short  of  the  town  (omnibus)^ 
which  lies  on  the  further  slope,  and  we  must  mount  to  it 
over  a  Common.  We  make  its  first  acquaintance  by  two 
remarkable  features  :  on  the  left  a  cemetery  that  suggests  a 
nobleman's  grounds  ;  on  the  right  an  unusually  picturesque 
Union  with  pretty  garden  and  chapel.  In  returning  to  the 
station,  a  pleasant  detour  could  be  made  by  keeping  down 
the  cemetery  wall,  and  striking  through  a  fern-clad  valley. 

The  first  street  entered  beyond  the  cemetery  is  hardly  up 
to  the  promise  of  this  introduction,  so  we  advise  the  stranger 
to  hold  by  the  edge  of  the  Common,  round  the  Union  wall, 
where  he  will  look  over  a  fine  bend  of  the  Torridge.  Coming 
down  into  the  town  this  way,  he  soon  sees  the  Fountain  and 
Clock  Tower  in  the  Market  Place,  at  the  edge  of  which  a 
nook  of  green  guides  him  into  the  Churchyard.  The  old 
Church  was  blown  up  in  the  Civil  War,  but  its  successor  is 
not  unworthy  of  the  place  ;  it  contains  a  fine  reredos.  Close 
at  hand  he  will  find  the  small  remains  of  the  Castle,  then  on 
Castle  Hill  an  Obelisk  set  up  as  a  Waterloo  monument. 
From  the  Castle  Bowling  Green  there  is  a  celebrated  view, 
which  has  caused  Torrington  to  be  likened  to  Jerusalem. 
Bowling  has  always  been  held  in  special  esteem  at  Torrington, 
which  is  to  this  game  almost  what  St.  Andrews  is  to  golfing ; 
but  here  there  are  also  golf  links  on  the  Common.  The 
industry  that  keeps  this  town  of  three  to  four  thousand  in- 
habitants so  prosperous  is  glove-making,  as  Bideford  has  for 
its  staple  the  idyllic  manufacture  of  collars  and  cuflFs. 

Another  enterprise  of  the  district  is  the  North  Devon  Clay 
JVorks  at  Marland  (5  miles),  to  which  a  beautifully  wooded 


TORRINGTON  227 

walk  might  be  taken  by  the  light  railway  built  to  bring  the 
clay  to  Torrington  Station. 

The  Torridge. — Besides  bowling,  fis*iing  is  a  great  pastime 
at  Torrington,  and  one  need  not  be  a  very  ardent  devotee  of 
Izaac  Walton  to  take  any  excuse  for  visiting  the  lovely 
course  of  the  Torridge.  We  regret  that  space  does  not  allow 
us  to  go  much  further  into  a  country  little  visited  by  tourists, 
where  an  independent  explorer  would  find  it  well  worth  his 
while  to  wander  by  villages  mostly  perched  high  over  the 
wooded  valley. 

Such  a  lofty  village  is  Beaford — some  half-dozen  miles  by 
road — overlooking  from  the  right  bank  sinuous  curves  of  the 
river,  which  above  Torrington  receives  another  of  Devon's  many 
Yeo  streams,  their  confluence  a  charming  scene.  Above  Beaford, 
Yew  Bridge  is  one  of  the  finest  spots,  over  which  stands  Dolton, 
with  its  pretty  church,  containing  an  ancient  font.  On  the 
left  side,  a  little  higher  up,  Meath  Church  is  an  example  of  the 
fast-disappearing  style  of  galleried  and  whitewashed  architecture. 
Here  the  river  may  usually  be  crossed  by  stones  at  the  ford  ;  then 
soon  one  comes  to  the  junction  of  the  Okement,  which  one  might 
follow  up  to  the  purlieus  of  Dartmoor.  A  little  above  the  con- 
fluence is  HeU  Bridge,  a  couple  of  miles  from  Hatherleigh  (p.  175). 
The  distance  so  far  is  about  ten  miles  from  Torrington  as  the  crow 
flies  ;  but  one  would  have  to  do  with  devious  roads,  and  would 
often  be  tempted  to  turn  aside  to  the  winding  Torridge,  two  or 
three  bends  of  which  may  be  seen  from  one  point. 

The  vigorous  pedestrian  would  do  well  in  keeping  with  this 
crooked  river  towards  its  sources  on  the  Cornish  border,  close  to 
the  head  of  the  Tamar,  following  it  at  all  events  to  Black  Tor- 
rington (inn),  then  perhaps  striking  across  to  Halwill  Junction. 
Several  miles  higher  up,  at  Woodford  Bridge  (inn),  he  would  cross 
the  road  by  which  it  is  7  miles  to  Holsworthy  Junction,  and  only 
about  as  far  back  to  Torrington.  So  great  is  the  bend  taken  by 
this  river  that  as  he  approaches  its  source,  one  who  has  tracked  it 
up  from  Torrington  comes  nearer  its  mouth  than  he  has  been  on 
most  of  a  long  day's  meandering  course. 

This  is  no  cyclists'  paradise,  but  for  their  guidance  we  may 
mention  some  distances  from  Torrington. 

To  OkeTiampton  (p.  168)  by  Little  Torrington,  Hele  Bridge,  and 
Hatherleigh,  25  miles. 

To  Holsworthy  (p.  174)  by  Frithelstock,  15  miles. 

To  Hartland  Point  (p.  231)  by  the  Yeo  Valley,  about  20  miles. 

To  Umberleigh  Station  (p.  180),  9  miles. 

To  Barnstaple  (p.  182),  13  miles. 


228  CLOVELLT 


CLOVELLY  AND  HARTLAND 


We  have  left  to  the  last  the  most  famous  excursion  in 
these  parts,  which  will  bring  us  to  the  boundary  of  Devon. 
Everybody  has  heard  of  Clovelly,  that  quaint  village  hanging 
in  a  cliff-cleft,  so  steep  that  the  thoroughfare  seems  a  ladder 
rather  than  a  street,  and  so  narrow  as  to  be  impassable  for 
any  carriage  larger  than  a  wheelbarrow,  the  whole  embedded 
in  rich  woods  and  the  rare  blooms  flourishing  here  like 
weeds.  Bideford  is  the  nearest  town  (11  miles)  to  this 
romantic  nook.  Besides  excursion  parties  frequently  made 
up  at  Bideford,  coaches  run  both  morning  and  afternoon  in 
summer  ;  and  all  the  year  the  mail  carriage  leaving  Bideford 
Post-Office  early  in  the  morning  will  take  passengers  who 
have  booked  places  the  night  before.  Parties  of  not  less 
than  eight,  reaching  Bideford  with  through  tickets  by  early 
morning  train,  can  have  a  special  conveyance  provided  on 
previous  notice  to  the  stationmaster.  By  boat,  also,  Clovelly 
is  visited  from  Instow  or  Appledore.  But  the  safest  and 
most  satisfactory  way  of  going  there  is  on  one's  own  legs, 
especially  as  the  last  3  miles,  to  be  fully  enjoyed,  should  in 
any  case  be  so  done. 

By  taking  advantage  of  any  of  the  public  conveyances  one  way, 
as  far  as  the  Hobby  Drive,  the  tourist  who  shrinks  from  a  25-mile 
walk  might  keep  himself  fresh  for  walking  back  along  the  coast,  so 
as  to  visit  Buckish  {or  Bucks)  Mill,  a  cove  2  or  3  miles  east, 
which  some  think  as  fine  as  Clovelly  itself.  At  low  tide  one  can 
walk  along  the  shore,  else  it  will  be  necessary  to  take  the  road 
from  the  Hobby  Drive  till  the  lane  for  Buckish  is  reached.  As 
another  way  back  to  Bideford,  instead  of  keeping  the  high  road,  we 
may  strike  off  at  Home's  Cross  to  gain  the  coast  again  at  the  wild 
rocks  of  Peppercombe,  and  thence  return  by  Abbotsham  or  by 
Westward  Ho  (p.  222).  The  walk  along  the  beach  from  Pepper- 
combe  to  Westward  Ho,  however,  is  rather  fatiguing. 

The  coach  road  goes  up  the  steep  streets  of  Bideford  to 
follow  pleasant  heights  some  little  way  back  from  the  sea. 
Outside  of  the  town  there  are  views  of  the  finely  timbered 
grounds  of  Moreton,  then  in  about  3  miles  is  passed  Portledge 
House,  seat  of  the  Coffin  family  for  many  centuries.       The 


CLOVELLY  229 

Hoops  Inn  is  half-way  to  Clovelly  ;  and  here  we  might 
descend  to  reach  those  other  points  of  the  coast  already 
mentioned.  At  Clovelly  Gross,  more  than  a  mile  from  the 
village,  the  coach  running  on  to  Bude  must  be  left,  a  wag- 
gonette being  provided,  which  vehicle  again  does  not  carry 
passengers  quite  into  the  village,  where  donkeys  are  the  only 
means  of  transport.  But  those  who  can  walk  at  all  should  by 
all  means  have  left  the  coach  8  miles  from  Bideford,  at  the 
entrance  to  the  famous  **  Hobby "  Drive,  constructed  by  a 
former  owner  of  the  great  house  of  the  neighbourhood, 
Clovelly  Court.  A  charge  of  4d.  is  made  for  admission  ;  Is.  for 
carriages.  This  way  winds  through  lovely  woods  over- 
hanging the  sea  for  nearly  3  miles,  and  finally  opens  into  the 
village  street  about  the  middle,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above  the 
harbour. 

Clovelly  still  retains  its  unsophisticated  charms,  though 
so  much  visited,  and  rising  not  only  as  a  show  place  but  as  a 
resort  with  lovers  of  the  beautiful.  In  summer  its  contracted 
and  unconventional  accommodations  are  much  run  upon. 
Its  chief  hostelries  are  the  New  Inn,  half-way  up,  and  the 
Red  Lion,  down  below  on  the  harbour,  both  in  keeping  with 
the  place.  On  fine  days  these  inns  are  apt  to  be  invaded  by 
steamboat  excursionists  from  Ilfracombe. 

The  name  Clovelly  is  understood  to  mean  "a  shut-in 
valley,"  which  but  tamely  describes  the  situation  of  this  place. 
The  slope  in  parts  is  almost  precipitous,  and  has  every  here 
and  there  to  be  overcome  by  steps.  The  only  patch  of  level 
is  a  sort  of  landing  in  the  street-staircase,  two-thirds  of  the 
way  down,  commanding  a  view  of  the  harbour,  which  forms 
a  village-centre  and  eyrie  for  the  local  mariners.  Pretty 
cottages  line  the  street  on  either  side,  here  two  or  three 
together,  there  standing  apart,  almost  all  with  gardens, 
perched  on  every  coign  of  vantage,  and  turned  at  any  angle 
to  the  winding  thoroughfare.  At  one  point  the  village 
seems  to  end  abruptly,  till  the  stranger  discovers  that  the 
road  is  literally  carried  through  a  house,  which  blocks  the 
way,  by  means  of  an  archway.  A  little  below,  the  tiny 
harbour  is  reached,  with  its  quaint  little  rustic  pier, 
sheltering  red -sailed  fishing-boats,  while  the  whole  of  this 


230  CLOVELLY 

fishermen's  Arcadia  is  embowered  and  half- hidden  in  trees  , 
which  come  down  to  meet  the  odours  of  tar,  fish,  and  brine, 
rising  to  suggest  one  side  of  its  mingled  characteristics.  J 

The  Church  contains  many  monuments  of  the  Carys, 
and  a  brass  to  the  memory  of  Charles  Kingsley,  who  has 
brought  so  many  strangers  to  this  "  strip  of  semi-tropic  para- 
dise," which  he  judges  unsurpassed  in  England.  His  father 
was  rector  of  Clovelly,  and  thus  both  the  sons  came  by  their 
enthusiastic  admiration  of  this  country.  Clovelly  seems  to 
have  sat  in  part  for  the  picture  of  ' '  Ravenshoe  "  in  Henry 
Kingsley's  novel ;  it  is  believed  also  to  have  furnished  some 
features  for  "  Aberalva  "  in  his  brother's  Two  Years  Ago.  But 
indeed  it  has  been  often  described,  notably  in  Dickens's 
Message  from  the  Sea. 

Besides  the  Hohhy  Drive,  the  following  are  the  chief  points  to 
be  visited  about  Clovelly. 

Clovelly  Dikes.  Where  the  village  road  joins  the  main  Bide- 
ford  and  Hartland  Road  will  be  found  the  extensive  circular 
British  Camp,  known  as  Ditchen  Hills,  otherwise  Clovelly  Dikes, 
occupying  a  lofty  position  a  little  way  back  from  the  sea.  The 
three  trenches  vary  from  18  to  20  feet  in  depth  ;  the  diameter  of 
the  outer  trench  is  1300  feet,  the  inner  one  forms  a  parallelogram 
of  about  360  by  300  feet.  There  is  a  wide  view  from  the  top  of  the 
Dikes,  where  the  rich  loveliness  of  Clovelly  may  be  seen  set  in 
relief  against  the  bleak  moorlands  behind.  A  return  might  be 
made  by  the  Hobby  Drive.  The  pedestrian  should  turn  to  the  left 
from  the  Dikes  eastwards  along  the  Bideford  Road  ;  and  again  to 
the  left  at  right  angles  at  the  second  turning  on  that  side,  by  a 
lane  which  joins  the  Hobby  Drive  a  mile  out  of  Clovelly.  This 
lengthens  the  whole  walk  to  nearly  4  miles. 

Clovelly  Court  is  half  a  mile  to  the  west  of  the  village.  The 
mansion  close  to  the  church  is  a  modern  one,  the  old  home  of  the 
Carys  having  been  burned  down  at  the  end  of  last  century.  The 
grounds  are  open  to  visitors  by  favour  of  the  owner  every  day  but 
Tuesday  and  Saturday,  a  small  charge  being  made,  which  goes  to 
charities :  admission  by  the  Yellery  Gate.  They  are  of  great  beauty, 
the  paths  winding  by  lichen-covered  rocks  and  through  leafy  glens 
and  ferny  combes  opening  suddenly  upon  the  sea.  The  show  of 
rhododendrons  early  in  the  season  is  very  fine. 

Gallantry  Bower,  strange  name  for  such  a  stern  scene,  is  a  sheer 
cliff  (380  feet)  which  overlooks  a  glorious  panorama  of  sea  on  the 
one  side  and  richly- wooded  country  on  the  other.  The  name  is 
probably  a  corruption  of  an  old  Cornish  word,  but  it  has  prompted 
a  version  of  the  well-worn  legend  of  a  Lover's  Leap.    It  stands 


HARTLAND  231 

ibout  a  mile,  as  the  crow  flies,  westwards  along  the  coast  from 
Jlovelly  Harbour.  To  reach  it  the  way  is  through  the  grounds  of 
2!lovelly  Court,  then  striking  down  to  the  coast,  and  for  the  last 
aalf-mile  keeping  the  ridge  of  the  cliffs. 

Mouth  Mill,  a  pretty  combe,  where  two  streams  unite,  opening 
to  the  sea,  is  reached  by  continuing  along  the  same  track  half  a 
mile  further.  Off  the  headland  forming  the  eastern  boundary  of 
the  little  bay  are  the  curious  detached  Black  Church  Rocks,  worn 
by  the  Atlantic  waves  into  large  natural  arches,  through  which  a 
boat  may  safely  pass  in  calm  weather.  The  pools  here  make  a  rich 
tiunting-ground  for  naturalists.  From  Mouth  Mill  the  return  may 
be  varied  by  following  the  cart-road  up  the  western  branch  of  the 
eombe  for  half  a  mile,  then  taking  the  first  turning  to  the  left, 
which  mounts  the  hillside  and  rejoins  the  Gallantry  Bower  route 
Qear  Clovelly  Court,  returning  past  it  again  to  Clovelly.  This 
round  altogether  makes  about  4  miles. 

Beyond  Clovelly  comes  the  huge  and  wild  parish  of 
Hartland,  a  bare  upland  country  of  rounded  tops,  between 
which  nestle  rich  hollows.  The  mail-cart  from  Bideford  goes 
on  to  Hartland  town,  returning  in  the  afternoon.  From  the 
cross-roads  at  Clovelly  Dikes  to  Hartland  {King's  Arms  Hotel) 
is  3j  miles  further  along  the  Bideford  Eoad,  or  over  5  from 
Clovelly.  The  village  lies  at  the  base  of  Hartland  Point, 
traversed  by  winding  lanes,  on  which  it  is  not  hard  to  lose 
one's  way,  soon  to  be  brought  up  by  approach  to  the  coast  on 
either  hand.  Hartland  Quay,  a  rock-bound  harbour  and  pier, 
2j  miles  beyond  Hartland,  terminates  the  main  road  from 
Bideford,  being  16  miles  distant  from  that  town. 

Between  Hartland  and  Hartland  Quay  is  passed  the  stately 
mansion  of  Hartland  Abbey,  a  seat  of  the  old  family  of  Stucley, 
reposing  amid  luxuriant  woods  on  a  gi-een  and  pleasant  valley-slope. 
Of  the  ancient  monastery — founded  by  the  Countess  Elgitha  in 
grateful  commemoration  of  the  escape  of  her  husband,  Earl  Godwin, 
from  shipwreck — the  present  mansion  embodies  the  Decorated 
arched  cloister,  built  by  Abbot  John  of  Exeter.  Near  this,  on  a 
height,  stands  the  fine  old  church  of  Stoke  St.  Nectan,  with  its 
ornate  rood-screen  and  other  relics,  among  them  a  replica  of  that 
curious  epitaph,  "Here  lie  I  at  the  chancel  door,"  etc.,  which  we 
saw  at  Kingsbridge  (p.  90). 

By  a  path  from  Stoke  Churchyard,  or  along  the  coast  from 
Hartland  Quay  it  is  some  3  miles'  walk  to  the  Lighthouse  on 
Hartland  Point,  a  grand  headland  of  dark  rock  (350  feet)  jutting 
out  into  the  Atlantic  towards  Lundy  Island.  Hence  one  can  return 
to  Clovelly  by  rough  coast  paths. 


232  THE    CORNWALL    BORDER  i 

Into  Cornwall. —  Southward,  some  lialf-a-dozen  miles 
along  the  coast  from  Hartland  Quay,  or  by  lanes  from  Hart- 
land  and  Stoke  St.  Nectan,  one  could  reach  the  picturesque 
village  of  Welcombe,  with  another  old  church  of  St.  Nectan, 
lying  close  to  the  Cornish  border,  a  good  mile  inland  from 
the  little  bay  of  Welcombe  Mouth.  Some  quarter  of  a 
mile  further,  on  the  actual  border-line  of  Cornwall, — the 
brook  that  here  enters  the  sea  dividing  the  counties  —  is 
Marsland  Mouth,  scene  of  the  interview  in  "Westward 
Ho  ! "  between  the  fair  "  Kose  of  Torridge  "  and  the  "  White 
Witch"  ;  and  Kingsley  is  not  the  only  novelist  who  has  taken 
impressive  scenery  from  this  iron-bound,  storm-lashed  coast, 
broken  by  the  characteristic  combes,  each  with  "  its  black 
field  of  jagged  shark's-tooth  rock,  which  paves  the  cove  from 
side  to  side,  streaked  with  here  and  there  a  pink  line  of  shell 
sand,  and  laced  with  white  foam  from  the  eternal  surge, 
stretching  in  parallel  lines  out  to  the  westward,  in  strata  set 
upright  on  edge  or  tilted  towards  each  other  at  strange  angles 
by  primeval  earthquakes  : — such  is  the  '  Mouth ' — as  those 
coves  are  called.  To  landward,  all  richness,  softness,  and 
peace  ;  to  seaward,  a  waste  and  howling  wilderness  of  rock 
and  roller,  barren  to  the  fisherman,  and  hopeless  to  the  ship- 
wrecked mariner." 

But  now  we  have  strayed  into  the  limits  of  our  Cornwall 
Guide.  Some  2  miles  over  the  border  is  the  first  Cornish 
village,  Morwenstow,  standing  on  the  wild  cliffs  famed  by  its 
former  vicar,  K.  S.  Hawker,  the  poet.  Further  south,  16 
miles  from  Hartland  byroad,  comes  Bude, teTminna  of  the  short 
L.  and  S.-W.  R.  branch  line  from  Holsworthy  (p.  174),  10  miles 
away,  on  the  western  edge  of  Devon. 


CYCLING   ITINERAEY  OF   DEVON 

{The  figures  given  as  round  numbers,  fractioTis  neglected  ;  and, 
in  doubt,  the  longer  distance  usually  preferred) 


ROADS  FROM  EXETER 


EXETER  TO  LYME  REGIS 

(by  the  Coast)       39  Miles. 


Miles. 
4 
5 
2 
5 
3 


Topsham  (p.  39) 
Lympstone  (p.  89) 
Exmouth  (p.  40) 
Budleigli  Salterton  (p.  21) 
Otterton  (p.  20) 
Sidmouth  (p.  17) 

[left  to  Honitoa  (p.  11)  9  miles] 
Seaton  (p.  7)  9 

[left  to  Axmiaster  (p.  5)  7  miles] 
Lyme  Regis  (p.  6)  8^ 

Total  39 

The  direct  road  from  Exeter  to 
Lyme  Regis,  keeping  farther 
back  from  the  coast,  is  28 
miles.  This  diverges  right  from 
No.  II.  2  miles  out  of  Exeter. 
Exeter  to  Sidmouth  direct  by 
Clyst  St.  Mary  (p.  39)  and 
Newton  Popplejford  (p.  20)  15 
miles. 

II 

EXETER  TO  CHARD 

(London  Road)       30  Miles. 

Honlton  Clyst  (p.  14)  4 

Honiton  (p.  li)  13 

[right  to  Axmiaster  (p.  5) 

9  miles] 

(3  miles  on,  left  to  Taunton  14 

miles) 

Chard  (p.  5)  13 

Total  30 
(Chard  to  London  138  miles) 


III 


EXETER  TO  TAUNTON 


32  Miles. 


Miles. 
3 
2 


Pinhoe  (p.  14) 
Broadclyst  (p.  14) 
Cullompton  (p.  3) 
Wellington  (p.  2) 
Taunton  (p.  2) 


Total  32 
(Taunton  on  to  Bristol  44  miles) 

IV 
EXETER  TO  DULVERTON 

27  Miles, 

Stoke  Canon  (p.  4)  4 

Bickleigh  (p.  42)  7 

Tiverton  (p.  43)  4 

Exe  Bridge  (near  Dulverton  Sta- 
tion, p.  45)  10 
(Road  forward  to  Minebead  18 


Dulverton  Town  (left)  (pp.  45, 181)  2 

Total  27 
(Dulverton   Town   to  Lymnouth 
24  miles.) 


EXETER  TO  BARNSTAPLE 


40MUes. 

Credlton  (p.  46) 
Copplestone  (p.  178) 
Eggesford  (p.  179) 


s 


234 


GUIDE  TO  DEVONSHIRE 


Miles. 
Portsmouth  Arms  (p.  180)  7 

Umberleigh  Bridge  (p.  180)  4 

[left  to  Torrington,  right  to  South 

Moltoa,  each  about  8  mites] 
Bishops  Tawton  (p.  180)  6 

Barnstaple  (p.  182)  2 

Total  40 

Barnstaple  to  Bldeford  9 

to  Ilfracombe  ll 

to  Lynton  17 


VI 
EXETER  TO  OKEHAMPTON 

22  Miles. 

Taphouse  7 

Crockemwell  4 

Sticklepath  (p.  167)  8 

Okehampton  (p.  168)  3 

Total  22 

Okehampton  to  Torrington  25 

to  Launceston  19 

to  Tavistock  16 
to  Plymouth  by 

Tavistock  30 


VII 

Chudleigh  (p.  50) 
Ashburton  (p.  67) 

10 
10 

EXETER  TO  PLYMOUTH 

South  Brent  (p.  89) 

8 

(over  Dartmoor)       42  Miles. 

Ivybridge  (p.  98) 
Plymouth  (p.  103) 

5 
10 

Pocombe  Bridge  (p.  68) 

1 

Moreton  Hampstead  (p.  68) 

11 

Total  43 

Two  Bridges  (p.  69) 

13 

[right  to  Tavistock  9  miles] 

XII 

[left  to  Ashburton  12  miles] 

EXETER  TO  KINGSBRIDGE 

Princetown  (p.  146) 
Roborough  (p.  131) 

2 
9 

{by  the  Coast) 

48  Miles. 

Pljrmouth  (p.  103) 

6 

Torquay  (VIII.  IX.) 
Dartmouth  (Ferry,  p. 

23 

— 

81) 

10 

Total  42 

Tor  Cross  (p.  88) 

8 

VIII 

Klngsbridge  (p.  89) 

7 

EXETER  TO  TORQUAY 

Totalis 

{by  Haldon)        23  Miles. 

XIII 

Alphington  (p.  48) 

1 

EXETER  TO  KINGSBRIDGE 

Chudleigh  (p.  50) 
Newton  Abbot  (p.  62) 

9 
6 

(by  Totnes) 

36  Miles. 

[right  to  Moreton  Hampstead 

Newton  Abbot  (p.  62) 

16 

(p.  163)  12  miles] 

Totnes  (p.  83) 

8 

[left  to  Teignmoutb  (p.  58) 

Halwell 

6 

6  miles] 

[left  to  Dartmouth  8  miles] 

Torquay  (p.  65) 

7 

Klngsbridge  (p.  89) 

7 

Total  23 


IX 
EXETER  TO  TORQUAY 

(by  the  Coast)       23  Miles. 

Alphington  (p.  48) 
Exmlnster  (p.  53) 
Starcross  (p.  53) 
Dawllsh  (p.  54) 
Teignmouth  (p.  58) 

[right  to  Newton  Abbot  (p. 
6  miles] 
Torquay  (p.  65) 


Miles. 
1 


62) 


Total  23 


X 


EXETER  TO  PLYMOUTH 

(by  Torquay)       55  Miles. 

Torquay  (VIII.  IX.)  23 

Totnes  (p.  83)  9 

Avonwick  (p.  89)  6 

Ivybridge  (p.  98)  7 

Plymouth  (p.  103)  10 

Total  55 
XI 
EXETER  TO  PLYMOUTH 

(by  Ashburton)       43  Miles. 


Total  36 


CYCLING  ITINERARY  OF  DEVON 


235 


ROADS  FKOM  PLYMOUTH 

For  Plymouth  to  Exeter  see  above  Routes,  VII.  X.  XI. 


I 
PLYMOUTH  TO  KINGSBRIDGE 

20  Miles. 

Brixton  (p.  127) 
Yealmpton  (p.  127) 
Modbury  (p.  99) 
EUngsbridge  (p.  89) 


Total  20 
(Kingsbridge  to  Dartmouth  by 
Torcross  15  miles— Torquay  25  miles) 

II 
PLYMOUTH  TO  TORQUAY 

32  Miles. 


Ivybridge  (p.  98) 
Avonwlck  (p.  89) 
Totnes  (p.  83) 
Paignton  (p.  75) 
rorquay  (p.  65) 


11 


Total  32 


III 


PLYMOUTH  TO  ASHBURTON 

24  Miles. 

[vybridge  (p.  98)  11 

Buckfastlelgli  (p.  155)  10 

aishburton  (p.  156)  3 

Total  24 
(Ashburton  to  Two  Bridges  12 
miles,  Tavistock  21  miles) 

IV 
PLYMOUTH  TO  OKEHAMPTON 

31  Miles. 

loborough  (p.  131)  5 

lorrabridge  Sta.  (p.  133)  5 

Tavistock  (p.  134)  5 

jydford  (on  left  of  road,  p,  170)  6 

)keliampton  (p.  168)  10 

Total  31 
(Okehampton  to  Exeter  22  miles 
—to  Launceston  18  miles) 


PLYMOUTH  TO  BARNSTAPLE 


66  Miles. 

Saltash  (p.  121) 
Calllngton 
Launceston 
Holsworthy  (p.  174) 
Woodford  Bridge  (p.  227) 
Frithelstock  (p.  225) 

[right  to  Torringtoa 
Landcross  (p.  225) 
Bideford  (p.  219) 
Instow  (p.  218) 
Barnstaple  (p.  182) 


Miles. 

4 

10 

10 

14 

7 

6 

miles] 

4 
2 
8 
6 

Total  66 


VI 
PLYMOUTH  TO  LISKEARD 

19  Miles. 

Torpoint  Ferry 

PolbatWck 

Liskeard 


Total  19 
(Liskeard  to  Bodmin  12  miles 
—to  Truro  33  miles) 

VII 
PLYMOUTH  TO  FOWEY 


29  Miles. 


PolbatWck  (VL) 

Pelynt 

Fowey 


11 
13 
5 

Total  29 


VIII 

CIRCULAR  RUN  FROM 

PLYMOUTH 

{over  Dartmoor)       53  Miles. 

Ashburton  (III.  p.  156) 
Two  Bridges  (p.  149) 
Roborough  (p.  131) 
Plymouth 


Total  53 


236 


GUIDE  TO  DEVONSHIRE 


EOADS  IN  NORTH  DEVON 


I 

TAUNTON  TO  BARNSTAPLE 

50  Miles. 


Wivelscombe  (p.  180)  il 

Venn  Cross  (p.  180)  4 

Bampton  (p.  45)  6 

Stuckeridge  Bridge  2 

[right  to  Minebead  (p.  204) 
21  miles] 
South  Molton  (p.  181)  16 

[a  mile  ieyond  South  Molton, 
right  to  Blacktnoor  Cross  (p. 
203),  for  Lynton   19  miles,  aoid 
Ilfracombe  22  miles] 
Swimbridge  (p.  182)  7 

Barnstaple  (p.  182)  4 

Total  50 
II 
MINEHEAD  TO  BARNSTAPLE 

86  Miles. 

Porlock  (p.  204)  6 

County  Gate  (p.  205)  8 

Lynmouth  (p.  202)  4 

Parracombe  (p.  203)  5 

Blackmoor  Gate  (p.  203)  2 
[right  to  Ilfracombe  (p.  188) 
10  miles] 

Loxhore  (p.  204)  4 

Chelf  ham  (p.  203)  2 

Barnstaple  (p.  182)  5 

Total  36 

III 

BARNSTAPLE  TO  LYNTON  OR 

LYNMOUTH  (p.  202) 

17  Miles. 

As  II.— reversed 

IV 
BARNSTAPLE  TO  ILFRACOMBE 


11  Miles. 


MlUtown  (p.  187) 
Bittadon  (p.  187)  < 
Ilfracombe  (p.  188), 


4 
2 
5 

Total  11 


BARNSTAPLE  TO  HARTLAND 


22  Miles. 

Bideford  (p.  219) 
Hobby  Gate  (p.  229) 
Clovelly  Cross  (p.  229) 
Hartland 


jross  (p. 
(p.  231) 


VI 


Miles. 


3 

Total  22 


OKEHAMPTON  TO  BIDEFORD 

30  Miles. 

Hatherlelgh  (p.  175)  9 

Meath  (p.  227)  3 

Torrington  Station  (p.  226)  12 

Bideford  (p.  219)  6 

Total  30 
VII 
DULVERTON  STATION  TO 
LYNMOUTH 

26  Miles. 

Dulverton  Town  (p.  181)  2 

Winsford  Hill  (p.  181)  6 

Simonsbath  (p.  216)  8 

Lynmouth  (p.  202)  10 

Total  26 
VIII 
BIDEFORD  TO  LAND'S  END 

106  Miles.i 

Clovelly  Cross  (p.  229)  10 

Kilkhampton  10 

Camelford  21 

Wadebridge  11 

St.  Columb  Major  8 

[right  to  New  Quay  8  miles] 

Mitchell  7 

[left  to  Truro  7  miles] 

Redruth  13 

[left  to  Falmouth  10  miles] 

Camborne  3 

[left  to  the  Lizard  21  miles] 

St.  Erth  7 

[right  to  St.  Ives  4  miles] 

Penzance  6 

Land's  End  10 

Total  106 


1  For  further  detail,  see  our  Guide  to  Cornwall. 


INDEX 


Abbotsham,  224 
Abbotskerswell,  64 
Abbot's  Way,  the,  148 
Affeton  Castle,  179 
Aller  Pottery  Works,  63 
Alphington,  48 
Anchor  Stone,  the,  86 
Angling  on  Dartmoor,  144 
Anstey's  Cove,  74 
Anthony,  122 
Appledore,  224 
Arlington,  204 
Ashburton,  156 
Ashbury,  174 
Ashcombe,  57 
Ashton,  50,  52 
Atherington,  180 
Aveton  Giftbrd,  95 
Avon  River,  89,  95,  98 
Avonwick,  89 
•'Awns  and  Dendles,"  100 
Axe  Valley,  5,  6 
Axminster,  5 
Axmouth,  7 

Babbicombe  Bay,  74 

Badgeworthy  Water,  214 

Baggy  Point,  187,  199 

Bampton,  45 

Bantham,  128 

Barbrook  Mill,  209 

Barle  River,  181,  217 

Barnstaple,  182 

Beacon  Hill  (Budleigh),  22 

Beaford,  227 

Beardown,  150 

Becky  Falls,  162 

Beer,  8 

Beer  Alston,  134 

Bee  Sands,  88 

Believer  Tor,  153 

Belstone,  168 

Belstone  Cleave,  167 

Belvidere  Tower,  49 


Berry  Head,  80 
Berry  Pomeroy,  84 
Berrynarbor,  195 
Bickington,  64 
Bickleigh,  42 
Bickleigh  Vale,  131 
Bicton,  20 
Bideford,  219 
Bigbury,  95 
Bigbury  Bay,  128 
Bishops  Nympton,  181 
Bishops  Tawton,  180 
Bishopsteignton,  60 
Bishop's  Walk,  74 
Bittadon,  187 
Blackbury  Castle,  8 
Black  Down  Hills,  2 
Blackmoor,  203 
Black  Torrington,  227 
Bolbury  Down,  95 
Bolt  Head,  94 
Bolt  Tail,  95 
Bone  Caves,  70,  80 
Bottor  Rock,  161 
Bovey  Tracey,  160 
Bovey  Valley,  160 
Bovisand  Bay,  123 
Bow,  178 
Bow  Station,  175 
Bowringsleigh,  90 
Bradford,  175 
Bradley  Woods,  64 
Bradmere  Pool,  166 
Bradninch,  3 
Braitor,  173 
Brampford  Speke,  42 
Branscorabe,  8,  10 
Bratton  Clovelly,  173    ; 
Bratton  Fleming,  203 
Bravnton,  18. 
Braunton  Burrows,  186 
Brendon,  210,  214 
Brent  Hill,  98 
Brent  Tor,  138,  140,  173 


238 


GUIDE  TO  DEVONSHIRE 


Bridestowe,  170 
Bridford,  52 
Brightley  Priory,  170 
Britannia,  the,  81 
Brixham,  79 
Brixton,  127 
Broadbury,  173 
Broad  Clyst,  li 
Buckfastleigh,  155 
Buckish  Mill,  228 
Buckland  Abbey,  134 
Buckland  Beacon,  158 
Buckland  Drives,  157 
Buckland  Monachorum,  133 
Buckland  on  the  Moor,  158 
Bude,  232 

Budleigh  Salterton,  21 
Bull  Point,  198 
Buller's  Hill,  50 
Burrator,  132 
Burr  Island,  95 

Cad  River,  131 

Cadaford  Bridge,  131 

Cadbury  Castle,  43 

Cadeleigh,  43 

Cairn  Top,  193 

Calstock,  129 

Castle  Dyke,  60 

Castle  Hill,  182 

Castor,  166 

Catwater,  the,  118 

Cawsand  Bay,  120 

Cawsand  Beacon,  167 

Chagford,  164 

Chains,  the,  216 

Challacombe,  216 

Chambercombe  Valley,  194 

Chapleton  Station,  180 

Chapman  Barrowb,  216 

Charlton,  88,  91 

Chelfham,  203 

Childe's  Tomb,  148 

Chittlehampton,  180 

Chivelstone,  94 

Christow,  52 

Chudleigh,  50 

Chulmleigh,  179 

Churchstow,  90 

Churston,  79 

Clapper  Bridges,  151 

Classenwell  Pool,  148 

Clovelly,  228 

Clovelly  Court,  230 

Clovelly  Cross,  229 

Clovelly  Dykes,  230 

Clyst  St.  George,  39 

Clyst  St.  Mary,  39 

Clyst  Valley,  14,  39 

Coaches,  193,  203,  204,  228 

Coaches  on  Dartmoor,  136,  156,  161 

Cockington,  72 


Coddon  Hill,  180 
Colebrook,  175 
Coleridge,  179 
Colyford,  7 
Colyton,  7 

Combe  in  Teignhead,  60 
Combe  Martin,  196 
Combe  Raleigh,  13 
Combe  Royal,  90 
Compass  Cove,  82 
Compton  Castle,  72 
Copplestone,  178 
Cornwood,  100,  131 
Coryton,  140 
Cothele  House,  129 
Cotley  Castle,  52 
Cottages,  Devonshire,  48 
Countess  Wear,  37 
Countisbury,  210 
County  Gate,  the,  205,  214 
County  Wall,  the,  216 
Cowley,  37 
Cowsic  Glen,  150 
Cranbrook  Castle,  164 
Cranmere  Pool,  150 
Crediton,  46 
Creedy  Valley,  46,  47 
Crocken  Tor,  149 
Crown  Hill,  117 
Croyde  Bay,  187 
Cullompton,  3 
Culm  Valley,  2-4 
Culmstock,  2 
Cut  Hill,  150 
Cycling  Boutes,  102 


Dart  River,  149,  151,  153,  157,  159 

Dart,  the,  43,  85 

Dartmeet,  153 

Dartmoor,  141 

Dartmoor  Prison,  147 

Dartmouth,  81 

Dartington,  85 

Dawlish,  54 

Dean,  155 

Denbury  Down,  64 

Dennabridge  Pound,  153 

Devonport,  114 

Dewerstone,  the,  131 

Ditchen  Hills,  230 

Dittisham,  86 

Dockyard,  Devonport,  115 

Dodbrooke,  90 

Dolbury,  4,  43 

Dolton,  227 

Doone  Glen,  the,  215 

Dousland,  132,  146 

Dowlands  Landslip,  9 

Down  St.  Mary,  179 

Dowrish,  47 

Drake's  Island,  118 


INDEX 


Drewsteignton,  166 
Dulverton,  45,  181 
Dumpton  Hill,  13 
Dunkeswell  Abbey,  13 
Dunsford,  52,  165 
Dunterton,  138 

East  Budleigh,  21 

East  Lyn  Glen,  the,  210 

East  Okement,  the,  169 

Bddystone  Lighthouse,  125 

Egg  Buckland,  117 

Eggesford,  179 

Endsleigh  Cottage,  138 

Erme,  the,  95 

Ernie  Valley,  98,  99,  148 

Ermington,  99 

Exe  Bridge,  45 

Exe  Bstnary,  5 

Exe  Head,  216 

Exe  Valley,  42,  45,  181,  217 

Exeter,  23 

Cathedral,  28 

Churches,  33 

City,  26 

Environs,  35 

Excursions,  38 

History,  24 

Hotels,  23 

Institutions,  34 

Routes  to,  1 

Stations,  23 
Bxminster,  53 
Exmoor,  215 
Exmouth,  40 
Exwick,  37 

Farway,  12 

Fern  worthy  Circle,  151 

Filleigh,  182 

Fingle  Bridge,  165 

Fitzford,  family  legends  of,  136 

Fitz's  Wells,  148 

Fleet  Drive,  the,  96,  98 

Ford  Abbey,  5 

Ford  House,  62 

Foreland,  the,  211 

Fox  Tor,  148 

Fremington,  218 

Frithelstock,  225 

Fur  Tor,  137 

Gallantry  Bower,  230 
Gara  Bridge  Station,  89 
Georgeham,  186 
Gidleigh,  166 
Glenthorne,  214 
Goodleigh,  203 
Goodrington  Sands,  79 
Great  Haldon,  48 
Great  Hangman,  the,  197 


Great  Links  Tor,  173 

Great  Mis  Tor,  139 

Great  Western  Railway,  2,  97,  131 

Grey  Wethers,  the,  151 

Grimspound,  152 

GubUns,  the,  172 

Haccombe,  60 
Halberton,  45 
Haldon,  6 
Haldon  Hills,  48 
Hall  Sands,  88 
Halwill  Junction,  174 
Hameldown,  152 
Hamoaze,  the,  118,  121 
Hangman  Point,  196 
Hare  Tor,  173 
Harford,  99 
Harpford  Wood,  17 
Harter  Tor,  147 
Hartland,  231 
Hatherleigh,  175,  227 
Hawkesdown,  7 
Hay  Tor,  157,  161 
Heanton  Punchardon,  185 
Heathfield,  160 
Heavitree,  36 
Heddon's  Mouth,  213 
Hele,  3,  195 
Helesborough  Hill,  191 
Hembury  Castle,  156 
Hembury  Fort,  13 
Hemerdon  Ball,  101 
HemyockJ  2 
Hennock,  161 
Hessary  Tor,  147 
Hexworthy,  153 
High  Peak,  20 
High  Week,  63 
High  Willhayes,  170 
Higher  White  Tor,  149 
Hoarock  Water,  the,  210 
Hobby  Drive,  the,  229 
Holbeton,  100 
Holcombe,  60 
Holdstone  Barrows,  197 
Holne,  159 
Holne  Chace,  157 
Holsworthy,  174,  227,  232 
Honlton,  11 
Honiton  Clyst,  14 
Hope  Cove,  95,  128 
Hope's  Nose,  74 
Horrabridge,  133 
Horwood,  221 
Hunter's  Inn,  the,  213 

Ide,  50 

Ilfracombe,  188 
Ilsham  Drive,  the,  78 
Ilsington,  64 
Instow,  218 


240 


GUIDE  TO  DEVONSHIRE 


Ippleden,  64 
Ivybridge,  96,  98 

Kennford,  49 
Kentisbury  Down,  203 
Kenton,  54 
Kent's  Hole,  70 
Kes  Tor,  166 
Killerton  Park,  4 
Kingsand,  120 
Kingsbrldge,  89 
Kingskerswell,  8,  71 
Kingsley's  Novels,  219,  230,  232 
Kingsteignton,  61 
Kingswear,  80 
Kitley  River,  127 
Kit's  Steps,  172 

Ladram  Bay,  20 

Laira,  122 

Lake  Head  Pound,  151 

Landcross,  225 

Landkey,  182 

Landslips,  near  Seaton,  9 

Landulph,  129 

Lapford,  179 

Leas,  87 

Lee  Abbey,  211 

Lee  Bay,  197 

Lee  Moor,  123 

Lether  Tor,  132 

Lidwell,  60 

Lifton,  140 

Lincombe  Drive,  the,  73 

Little  Dart,  the,  179 

Littleham,  41,  221 

Little  Haldon,  48 

Little  Hangman,  196 

Little  Hempston,  85 

Little  Links  Tor,  173 

L:ttle  Mis  Tor,  139 

Livermead  Bay,  72 

Loddiswell  Station,  89 

London  and  South-  Western  Railway, 

4, 103,  134,  173 
Lopwell,  130 
"  Lorna  Doone,"  215 
Loxbeare,  45 
Loxhore,  204 
Luesdon,  158,  159 
Lundy  Island,  200 
Luscombe  Castle,  56 
Lustleigh,  162 
Lustleigh  Cleave,  97 
Lyd,  the,  171 
Lydford,  140, 171 
Lyke  Way,  the,  150,  171 
Lyme  Regis,  6,  9 
Lympstone,  39 
Lyn  Cleave,  209 
Lynher  River,  121 
Lynjnouth,  205 


Lyns,  Bast  and  West,  the,  205 
Lynton,  206 

Maker  Church,  120 
Malborough,  91 
Malmsmead,  214 
Mamhead,  54,  56 
Manaton,  162 
Marble  Works,  76 
Mardon  Down,  163 
Marisco  Castle,  200 
Maristowe,  130 
Marland,  226 
Marldon,  72 
Marsh  Mills,  123 
Marsland  Mouth,  232 
Martinhoe,  213 
Mary  Tavy,  137,  140 
Meadfoot  Sands,  73 
Meath,  227 
Meavy,  132 
Meavy,  the,  131 
Meldon  Hill,  167 
Meldon  Viaduct,  the,  169 
Membland  Drive,  96,  100,  128 
Merchant's  Cross,  the,  132 
Merripit  Hill,  152 
Merrivale  Bridge,  138 
Mew  Stone,  the,  127 
Milber  Woods,  63 
Millbay,  113 
Millbrook,  120 
Millslade,  214 
Milltown,  187 
Minehead,  204 
Mis  Tors,  139 
Modbury,  96,  99 
Molland,  181 
Monkleigh,  225 
Morchard  Bishop,  178 
Morebath  Station,  45,  180 
Moreton  Hampstead,  163 
Morte  Bay,  199 
Morthoe,  198 
Morthoe  Station,  187 
Morwellhara  Quay,  130,  137 
Morwell  Rocks,  130,  137 
Morwenstow,  232 
Moult,  92,  94 
Mount  Batten,  123 
Mount  Edgcumbe,  119 
Mouth  Mill,  231 
Muddiford,  187 
Musbury,  6. 

Newenham  Abbey,  6 
Newton  Abbot,  62 

Newton  Abbot  Junction,  160 
Newton  Ferrers,  96,  127 
Newton  St.  Gyres,  46 
Nine  Stones,  the,  168 
Northam,  224 


INDEX 


241 


North  Bovey,  163 
North  Hessary  Tor,  147 
North  Molton,  181 
North  Tawton,  175 
Noss,  the,  7,  127 
Nun's  Cross,  148 

Oare,  215 

Oddicombe  Beach,  75 
Okehampton,  168 
Okeharapton  Park,  170 
Okement  Hill,  169 
Okement  Rivers,  168,  169 
Oldaport,  100 
Oldbarrow,  214 
Oreston,  122 
Otter  Valley,  the,  12,  17 
Otterton,  20 
Ottery  St.  Mary,  15 

Paignton,  77 

Parracombe,  203 

Parson  and  Clerk  Rocks,  55,  57 

Peak  Hill,  19 

Pear  Tree  Point,  88 

Pebble  Ridge,  The,  223 

Penlee  Point,  120 

Pennsylvania  Hill,  36 

Pentillie,  129 

Peter  Tavy,  137 

Petit  Tor,  75 

Pilton,  182 

Pinhoe,  14 

Pixie  Cross,  136 

Plym,  the,  102,  131 

Pljrmouth,  103 

Bathing,  108 

Breakwater,  118 

Churches,  111 

Environs,  117 

Excursions  from,  125 

Public  Buildings,  110 

Sound,  117 

The  Hoe,  107 

Water  Works,  132 
Plympton,  101,  131 
Plymstock,  124 
Plymtree,  3 
Pocombe  Bridge,  52 
Poltimore  Park,  4 
Porlock,  204,  214 
Portlemouth,  93 
Portsmouth  Arms  Station,  180 
Posbury  Hill,  47 
Post  Bridge,  151 
Poundsgate,  159 
Powderham,  53 
Prawle  Point,  93 
Prestonbury,  165 
Prince  town,  146 
Pudcombe  Cove,  80 
Pynes,  37 


Raddon  Hills,  the,  42 
Railways— 

Great  Western,  180 

London    and    South  ■  Western, 
178 

Lynton  Line,  203 
Rame  Head,  120 
Ramilies,  Wreck  of,  95 
Revelstoke,  128 
Rippon  Tor,  157 
Rivers  of  Dartmoor,  144 
Road  from  London,  8 
Roads  for  Cyclists,  102 
Roborough,  131 
Roborough  Down,  132 
Rockbeare,  14, 17 
Roundham  Head,  78 

St.  Budeaux,  124 
St.  Cyres  Hill,  13 
St.  John's  Lake,  120 
St.  Mary  Church,  61,  75,  76 
St.  Mary  Tavy,  137 
St.  Michael's  Chapel,  71 
St.  Nicholas  Island,  118 
St.  Peter  Tavy,  137 
Salcombe,  92 
Salcombe  Down,  19 
Salcombe  Regis,  19 
Saltash,  121 
Saltram,  122 
Samford  Spinney,  133 
Sampford  Courtenay,  175 
Sampford  Peverell,  45 
Sandford,  47 
Sandridge,  86 
Saunton  Sands,  186 
Scorhill  Circle,  166 
Seaton, 7 
Seaton  Junction,  7 
Shaldon,  59 
Sharpham  Woods,  86 
Sharpitor,  148 
Shaugh  Bridge,  131 
Shaugh  Prior,  131 
Shebbeare,  175 
Sheepstor,  132 
Shell  Top,  100 
Ship  Canal,  37,  53 
Shobrooke  Park,  47 
Showlsborough  Castle,  216 
Shute,  6 
Sidbury,  19 
Sidmouth,  17 
Sidmouth  Junction,  14 
Sillery  Sands,  the,  207,  211 
Silverton,  4 
Simonsbath,  216 
Sittaford  Tor,  151 
Siward's  Cross,  148 
Slade  Down,  193 
Slapton  Sands,  87 


242 


GUIDE  TO  DEVONSHIRE 


Smallmouth  Caves,  the,  195 
South  Brent,  89,  97,  154 
South  Hams,  the,  77,  97 
South  Hessary  Tor,  148 
South  Molton,  181 
South  Molton  Road,  179 
South  Tawton,  167 
South  Zeal,  167 
Spinster's  Rock,  the,  166 
Staddon  Heights,  123 
Staple  Tors,  139 
Starcross,  53 
Start  Bay,  87 
Start  Point,  88 
Staverton,  85 
Steer  Point  Station,  128 
Sterrage  Valley,  195 
Sticklepath,  167 
Stockland  Hill,  6 
Stoke  Canon,  4 
Stoke  Fleming,  87 
Stoke  Gabriel,  86 
Stoke  in  Teignhead,  60 
Stoke  Rivers,  203 
Stoke  St.  Nectan,  231 
Stokenham,  88 
Stonehouse,  113 
Stover  Park,  160 
Street,  87 

Summerhouse  Hill,  209 
Sutton  Pool,  109 
Swimbridge,  182 


Tamar  River,  128 

Tamerton  Foliott,  124 

Taunton,  2 

Tavistock,  134 

Tavy  Cleave,  137,  173 

Tavy  River,  130,  133,  137 

Taw  River,  167,  175 

Tawstock  Court,  180 

Taw  Valley,  the,  178,  182,  218 

Tedburn  St.  Mary,  47 

Teign  Estuary,  7 

Teigngrace,  160 

Teignmoutli,  58 

Teign  Valley,  52,  165 

Terra  Cotta  Works,  76 

Thorverton,  42 

Three  Barrows,  148 

Throwleigh,  167 

Thurleston,  95 

Tipton  St.  John's,  17 

Tiverton,  43 

Tiverton  Junction,  2 

Tom  Faggtis,  215,  216 

Topshara,  39 

Tor  Bay,  65 

Tor  Bryan,  64 

Tor  Cross,  88 

Tor  Point  Ferry,  117,  122 


Torquay,  65 

Amusements,  68 

Bathing,  70 

Boarding  Houses,  65 

Cabs  and  omnibuses,  65 

Cemetery,  71 

Churches,  70 

Climate,  67 

Coaches,  76,  97 

Cricket  Field,  71 

Excursions  from,  76 

Golf,  74,  79 

Hotels,  65 

Bail  from  London,  5 

Boad  from  London,  8 

Stations,  8 

Steamboats,  76 
Torquay,  road  to,  61 
Tor  Royal,  148 
Torre  Abbey,  the,  71 
Torre  Valley,  71 

Torridge  River,  174,  218,  225,  227 
Torrington,  225 
Tors  of  Dartmoor,  143 
Totnes,  83 

Traceys,  legends  of  the,  198 
Trematon,  122 
Trentishoe,  197,  213 
Trusham,  51 
Turf,  ST 
Turnchapel,  123 
Two  Bridges,  149 

Uffculme,  2 
Ugborough,  98 
Ugbrooke  Park,  51 
Umberleigh  Bridge,  180 
Uplyme,  10 
Upottery,  6 

Valley  of  Rocks,  the,  212 
Venn  Cross,  180 
Venn  Cross  Station,  45 
Virtuous  Lady  mine,  133,  137 
Vixen  Tor,  139 

Walkham,  the,  133,  139 
"Walkharnpton,  133 
Warberry  Hill,  75 
Warleigh  Tor,  124 
Warmscombe  Woods,  195 
"Warren,  the,  54 
Washfield,  45 
Watcombe,  75 
Watermouth,  195 
Watersmeet,  the,  210 
Wear  Gifford,  225 
Webburn,  the,  158 
Weir  Head,  130 
Welcombe,  232 
Wellington  Monument,  2 
Wembury,  123 


INDEX 


243 


West  Alvington,  91 
Westerland  Beacon,  72,  79 
West  Lyn,  the,  208 
West  Okement,  the,  169 
Westward  Ho !  222 
Whimple,  14 

Whitchurch  Down,  136,  139 
White  Ale,  90 
Whitesand  Bay,  121 
Widdecombe-in-the-Moors,  158 
Windmill  Hill,  72 
Winkleigh,  179 
Wistman's  Wood,  149 
Withycombe  Raleigh,  41 
Wolborough,  62 
Wooda  Bay,  212 
Wooda  Station,  203 
Woodbury,  39 


Woodbury  Castle,  22 
Woodbury  Common,  21,  41 
Woodford  Bridge,  175,  227 
Woolacombe  Sands,  199 
Wooston  Castle,  165 
Worlington  East  and  West,  179 
Wrangaton,  98 

Yarcombe,  6 

Yart,  the,  6 

Yealm,  the,  96,  100,  126 

Yealmpton,  96,  127 

Yelverton,  132 

Yeoford  Junction,  47,  146,  175, 178 

Yeo  Rivers,  the,  178,  181,  185,  203, 

221,  227 
Yeo  Tor,  170 
Yew  Bridge,  227 


THE  END 


Printed  by  R.  &  R.  Clark,  Limited,  Edinburgh. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 

Hotels  arranged  Alphabetically  according  to  Locality. 


DINNEFORD'S 


MAGNESIA 


THE  PHYSICIAN'S  CUBE  FOE 
GOUT,  RHEUMATIC  GOUT,  AND  GRAVEL. 


lFEST  and   MOST   GENTLE  MEDICINE  FOR 
[NFANTS,  CHILDREN,  DELICATE  FEMALES, 
AND  THE  SICKNESS  OF  PREGNANCY. 


THE  UNIVERSAL  REMEDY  FOR 

ACIDITY  OF  THE  STOMACH,  HEADACHE, 

HEARTBURN,  INDIGESTION, 

SOUR  ERUCTATIONS, 

BILIOUS  AFFECTIONS. 


DINNEFORDf 
MAGNESIA 


2  ABERDEEN MURTLE,  NEAR  ABERDEEN. 

MURTLE  (NEAR  ABERDEEN). 

THE  DEESIDE  HYDROPATHIC 

(LateHeathcot).  H* 

nPHIS  Establishment  contains  every  modern  condition  : 
Health,  Comfort,  and  Convenience,  including  Elect 
Lighting,  Elevator,  Heated  Corridors,  Electric  and  other  Bat 
etc.  It  commands  Extensive  Views,  has  fine  Exposure,  and 
eight  minutes'  walk  from  Murtle  Station  on  the  Deeside  lir 
The  Climate  of  Deeside  is  the  most  Healthy  and  Braci 
in  Great  Britain.  Trout  and  Salmon  Fishing. 

J  From  1st  November  to  Slst  May,  £2  :  2s.  per  week. 
®"^^\From  Ist  June  to  31st  October,  £2  :  12  :  6  per  week. 

Wn^VAli  ^^'  STEWART, 

ABERDEEN.  ~~ 

THE    PALACE    HOTEL 

OWNED  BY  THE  GREAT  NORTH  OF  SCOTLAND  RAILWAY  COMPAQ 

EVERY    accommodation    for    comfort.       Electrically    light 
Mechanically  ventilated.      Hydraulic  Lifts. 

EXCELLENT  CUISINE.  MODERATE  CHARGES. 

Personally  patronised  hy  their  Majesties  The  King  and  Qm 
The  Prince  and  Princess  of  WaleSj  The  late  Empress  Frederick 
Germany,  The  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Connaught,  Princess  Christ 
and  Princess  Victoria,  Princess  Henry  of  Battenberg,  Prince  i 
Princess  Charles  of  Denmark,  Prince  Adolphus  of  Teck,  H.I.H.  '. 
Empress  Eugenie,  H.R.H.  The  King  of  Portugal,  The  Prince  i 
Princess  Dolgorouki,  Grand  Duke  and  Gra7id  Duchess  Serge,  Gri 
Duke  Paul  of  Russia,  and  ma/my  distinguished  visitors. 
Covered  way  from  Station  Platform. 
Luggage  removed  to  and  from  the  Hotel  free  of  charge. 

Address  :  MANAGER,  Palace  Hotel,  Aberdeen 
^ee  Crxiden  Bay  Hotel,  page  21. 


ABERDEEN ABERDOUR ABERFELDY ABERFOYLE. 


IH 


ABERDEEN. 


un  o 


THE  FORSYTH  HOTEL, 

90  TO  104  UNION  STREET. 

Apply  the  Manager. 


ABERDOUR,  FIFESHIRE. 

FORTH  VIEW  HOTEL. 

'PHE  Hotel  is  opposite  the  New  Pier,  where 
^  the  pleasure  boats  from  Leith  call 
rt^gularly  to  and  from  the  Forth  Bridge 
during  the  Season. 

Charges :  for  Boarding  7s,   6d.   per  day  ; 
other  charges  equally  moderate. 

Yachting— Boating— Fishing— Golfing, 
Distance  by  rail  from  Edinburgh,  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour ;  from  Glasgow, 
one  and  a  quarter  hours. 


ABERFELDY,  PERTHSHIRE. 

WEEM  HOTEL,  TAY  BRIDGE. 

Under  New  Management. 

IS  well-knowii  family  Hotel  is  sitiiated  one  mile  from  Aberfeldy.  The  Hotel  is  commodious,  has  been 
relumished,  and  comfortably  fitted  up,  so  that  families  in  quest  of  quiet  and  comfort  may  de]>eud 
iroouring  every  possible  attention.  The  Hotel  situation  is  acknowledged  on  the  highest  authorities 
3  one  of  the  best  in  Scotland,  being  thoroughly  protected  from  all  directions,  and  having  a  due  south 
»8ure.  Families  boarded  by  the  wcelt  or  month.  Complete  jjosting  establishment.  Endless  drives ; 
nificent  scenery.  Episcopidian  and  Presbyterian  Clinrches.  A  Bus  will  meet  parties  at  Aberfeldy 
way  Station  (one  mile  distant)  on  their  giving  timely  notice.  Charges  strictly  moderate.  Letter* 
Telegrams  punctually  attended  to.  ROBEET  MENZIE8,  Proprietor. 

An  excellent  Golf  CouFse  within  a  short  distance  of  the  Hotel. 


''irt- 


...Vy.-rt,^.      ABERFOYLE.  ^^^^^^^ 

AILIE  NiCOL  JARVIE   HOTEL 


XCELLENT  accommodation  for  Visitors.     Coaches  to  and  from  the 

Trossachs  daily  in  connection  with  the  Steamer  on  Loch  Katrine. 

tts  on  Loch  Ard  and  Loch  Chon.     Billiards.     Tennis.     Golf.     Posting. 

yerfoyle  Railway  Station.     Post  and  Telegraph  Offices  are  tvxj  minuteis 
Walk  from  Hotel. 

A.  BLAIR,  Proprietor. 


ABERYSTWYTH ACHILL    SOUND AMBLESIDE 

ABERYSTWYTH. 


QUEEFS  !^  HOTEL. 


13  00 


npHIS  Hotel  is  situated  on  the  Marine  Parade  facing  the  sea,  and  contains  seve 
-^  Private  Sitting  Rooms,  Cottee  Rooms,  Ladies'  Drawing  Room,  Library,  and  all 
Bedrooms  are  pleasantly  situated.     Lighted  by  Electricity. 

Table  d'Hote  at  7.30  o'clock  during  the  Season. 
Boarding  Terms  from  3 J  Guineas  per  Week,  or  12s.  6d.  per  Day. 
TARIFF   ON   APPLICATION. 
Arrangements  made  for  Families.  "W.  H.  PALMER,  Proprietor 

ACHILL  SOUND. 

JOHNSTON'S  HOTEL. 

Fitted  with  every  Comfort  and  Convenience. 

Immediately  beside  the  Station. 
Visitors  will  find  every  attention  given  to  their  wants. 

Fair  Fishing,  Sea  Bathing,  and  Shooting. 
Terms  Moderate.     Cars  and  Boats  can  be  got. 

JOHN  JOHNSTON,  Proprietor. 

AMBLESIDE. 

THE  WINDERMERE  WATERHEAD  HOTEL 

STANDING  in  its  own  grounds  on  the  margin  of  the  Lake,  adjoining  Steambc 
Pier,  the  Terminus  of  the  Fumess  and  Midland  Railway  Systems. 
THOS.    TAYLOR,   Proprietor  of  the    Salutation    and    Queen's   Hotels  (both 
which  will  be  carried  on  by  him  as  heretofore),  has  taken  over  the  above  First-ck 
Hotel,  recently  enlarged  and  refurnished,  which  will  be  conducted  on  a  liberal  a: 
popular  tarifiF. 

Taylor's  Four-in-Hand  Stage  Coaches  run  from  the  Hotel,  also  from  the  Salutati^ 
and  Queen's,  to  Keswick,  Conlston,  Ullswater,  and  the  Langdales,  two  or  thi 
times  daily  during  the  season  (Sundays  excepted),  aflFording  special  facilities  1 
exploring  the  district  in  every  direction. 

a. B.— Boats,  Fishing  Tackle,  dbc,  supplied. 


ARROCHAR (aUCHANAULT,  see  p. 

AKROCHAPt. 


-AVIKMORE. 


STALKER'S    HOTEL 

(COLQUHOUN  ARMS). 
LDEST  established  and  only  licensed  Hotel,  situated  close  by  Loch 
Long  (salt  water),  at  the  liead  of  the  Steamboat  Pier.     Nearest  Hotel 
Arrochar  ai?d   Tarbet  Station  on  West   Highland  Railway.      Central 
itioii  for  daily  excursions  and  the  ascent  of  the  Arrochar  Alps, 
imilies  Boarded.      Charges  Moderate.      Complete  High-Class  Posting  Yard. 
Several  Four-Horse  Coaches  to  and  from  Loch  Lomond  daily. 

Lesser  -V.  S'r ALK  ER. 

ROSS'S 

HOTEL  &  BOARDING 

ESTABLISHMENT, 

ARROCHAR,  HEAD  OF  LOCH  LONG, 

Within  Five  Minutes'  walk  of  Pier,  and  One 

and  a  Half  Miles  from  Tarbet,  Loch  Lomond. 

To  meet  the  demands   of  the  TrHvelling  Public. 

this  old-esta))li8hed  and  well-managed  House  has 

undergone  ext.en8ive   alterations,  and  is  now  the 

liiL'fcst  and  leading  Hotel  in  Arrochar.     Splendid 

Centre  for  Day  Excursions. 

POSTING.         C.T.C.    HEADQUARTERS 

COOK'S  COUPONS  ACCEPTED. 

TKRiffI  VERT  MODERA  TK. 

'HE  AVIEMORE  STATION  HOTEL, 

AVIEMORE,    STRATHSPEY. 

IIRST-CLASS  Kesidential  Hotel  in  the  finest  scenery  of 
the  Highlands  of  Scotland. 

LECTRIC  LIGHTING.  PASSENGER  ELEVATOR. 

And  other  modern  comforts  and  conveniences. 


GOLFING, 


FISHING, 


'  Tariff  and  all  information  apply  to 

MR.  W.  H.  LEGGR,  Manager. 


6       AUCHANAULT (aVIEMORE,  See  p.  5) — BAKEWELL BALLATER 

AUCHANAULT. 

AUCHANAUIiT  HOTEL. 

Thls  Hotel  is 
NOW    OPEN    TO    RECEIVE    VISITORS 

Who  may  wish  for  a  quiet  retreat  or  for 

FISHING  ON  LOOH  AUCHANAULT, 

Whereon  Boats  can  be  had. 

MRS.  JANE  M'lVER,  Proprletrir. 
BAKEWELL,  DERBYSHIRE. 

THE  RUTLAND  ARMS  HOTEL 

A    FIRST=CLASS    HOUSE. 
Patronised  by  the  best  English  and  American  Families. 

Three  miles  from  Cluitsworth,  and  two  from  Haddon  Hall.  Save 
miles  of  Fishing  on  the  Wye,  Free  to  Visitors  staying  in  the  Hotel.  A 
Excellent  Golf  Links  within  ten  minutes'  walk.  Posting.  Stabling.  Bi: 
meets  all  trains.     Excellent  aeconunodation  for  Cycles. 

Telephone  No.  12.  Terms  very  moderate. 

_______  T.  TYACK,  Proprietor  (late  of  Matlock). 

BALLATER  (near  BALIViORAL)7 

LOIRSTON    HOUSE. 

(Greatly  enlarged  and  improved.) 
"Homelike  and  Comfortable." 
Special  Boarding  Terms.  Posting,  Golfing,  Cycling. 

GEORGE  T.   LAMOND,  Proprietor. 

Telegrams:— LOIRSTON   HOUSE,  Ballater. 

BALLATER  (near  BALMORAL). 

INYERCAULD    ARMS    HOTEL. 

Principal  and  only  Licensed. 

THE  Hotel  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Banks  of  the  Dee  in  the  midst  of  the  finei 
Scenery  on  Deeside,  and  most  centrically  and  conveniently  situated  for  partii 
visiting  the  Royal  Residence,  neighbouring  Mountains,  and  other  principal  places  < 
interest  on  Deeside. 

The  Hotel  has  recently  undergone  extensive  alterations  and  improvements,  and  f( 
comfort  -will  compare  favourably  with  any  First  Class  Hotel  in  Scotland.     Parti( 
BoARDKD  by  the  Week  on  Special  Terms,  excepting  from  15th  July  to  15th  Septembe 
Posting  in  all  its  Branches.    Coaches  during  the  Season  to  Balmoral  and  Braema 
Letters  and  Telegrams  promptly  attended  to. 
TdegrapMc  Address—  WILLIAM   PROCTOR, 

^'  Invercauld  Anns,"  Ballater.  Proprietor. 


BARNSTAPLE BATH BIDEFORD  {see  also  p.  9).  7 

BARNSTAPLE. 

IMPERIAL   HOTEL. 

EAUTIFULLY  situated  in  its  own  private  grounds  overlooking  the 
River  Taw.  This  First-class  Family  and  Residential  Hotel  has, 
ing  to  increased  patronage,  again  been  considerably  enlarged,  and  is 
IV  replete  with  every  comfort.  Spacious  and  lofty  Dining,  Drawing, 
ading,  Billiard,  Smoking  Rooms,  Lounge  and  Dark  Rooms,  also  Private 
ites  and  Sitting  Rooms.  Choice  Wines  and  Spirits.  Excellent 
isine.     Highly  Recommended.    No  Public  Bar. 

C.  A.  YOUINGS,  Proprietor. 

BARNSTAPLE. 

OYAL  AND  FORTESCUE.  ^Si& 

FAMILY  AND  COMMERCIAL  HOTEL. 

Patronised  by  H.R.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales.  Centrally  situated,  close  to  Stations 
I  G.P.O.  Large  and  well-lighted  Stock  Rooms.  Hotel  Bus  meets  all  Trains, 
liards  (two  tables).  Extensive  alterations  just  completed.  Under  New  Proprietor- 
p  and  Improved  Management. 

MONTY  Tf)lJ>ER,  Proprietor. 

BATH. 

CASTLE    HOTEL. 

IB  Oldest  Established  and  most  Central  for  Families,  Private 
and  Commercial  Gentlemen. 
NIGHT  PORTER. 

JOHN  RUB  IE,  Proprietor. 

ALSO  WINE  AND  SPIRIT  MERCHANT, 

24  &  25  NEW  BOND  STREET,  BATH. " 

BIDEFORD. 

NEW  INN  FAMILY  HOTEL. 

[E  OLDEST,  LARGEST,  AND  PRINCIPAL  HOTEL  IN  THE  TOWN. 

RIVATE  SITTING  ROOMS,  with  excellent  views.   The  House  is  pleasantly  situated 
in  the  centre  of  the  Town,  overlooking  the  River  Torridge,  and  other  Hotels.     Has 

ently  undergone  extensive  additions  and  improvements.     Is  well  known   for  its 

•erior  accommodation  combined  with  moderate  charges.     Proprietor  of,  and  Book- 
Office  for,  the  Clovelly  and   Bude  Coaches  in  connection  with  the  L,  &  S.-W. 

ilway.    Hot  and  Cold  Baths.    Billiards,  two  tables. 

H.  ASCOTT,  Proprietor. 


BELFAST. 


¥PRI 


GRAND  CENTRAL 
HOTEL. 


rTHE  Finest  Hotel  in  Ireland.     200  Bedrooms.     Magnificen 
Public  Rooms  and  numerous  Suites  of  Private  Apart 
ments.     Electric  Light  througliout.      Passenger  Lifts  to  al 
Floors. 

Omnibuses  from  the  Hotel  attend  the  Arrival  and  Departure 
of  all  Steamers  and  Trains. 

f  SET  m  .K^        'Aa.Ta2aJ0 

Tariff  on  Application  to  THE  MANAGER. 
Telegrams:  "GRAND  CENTRAL,  BELFAST." 

COOK'S    COUPONS    ACCEPTED. 


BIDEFORD  (see  also  p.  7)  J 

BIDEFORD. 
Central  for  the  whole  of  North  Devon. 

eluding  WESTWARD  HO  I  CLOVELLY,  HARTLAND,  BUDB,  ILFRACOMBE, 


and  LYNT0N. 
COACHES  IN  THE  SEASON  TO  ABOVE  PLACES. 


Adjoining 
ailway  Station. 


ROYAL  HOTEL, 


Overlooking  the  River 
Torridge  &  Old  Bridge. 


lete  with  every 
ivenience  and 
comfort. 


BIDEFORD. 
The  Most  Modern  Hotel  in  West  of  England. 

COMPLETELY  SHELTERED  FROM 
E.  &  H.E.  WIUDS. 


Lofty,  perfectly 
ventilated,  and 

handsomely  fur- 
nished rooms. 


Ightful  Winter  Resort— one  of  the  mildest  and  healthiest  in  the  Kingdom. 
t-Class  Horses  and  I  «  AwmTWTiwm  i  t    n  ATTTimvi  nn    I     finest  Stabling  and 
nages  of  every  de-     COKTIRESTAL   COURTYARD.      Lock-up  Coac^>. house 
ption  always  ready.  |  '        m  Devonshire. 

Specially  reduced  Winter  Tariflf. 

:v'S^'"rr'  I  SAVE  OMNIBUS  &  PORTERAGE.  |  'r.?/i^tf„"- 

WINTER  ATTRACTIONS. 
Hunting  (Wild  Stag,  Fox,  Hare),  Shooting,  Fishing,  Golfing. 
!he  Royal  Hotel,  originally  a  private  mansion,  built  in  1688,  contains  the  interesting 
Dak  rooms  in  which  Charles  Kingslcy  wTote  portions  of  IVestward  Ho !  and  from  its 
and  the  admirable  way  in  which  it  is  fitted  out  must  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  best 
els  in  the  West  of  England.     For  situation  the  Royal  is  probably  unequalled  in  the 
th  of  Devon. — Vide  Public  Press. 
'  Bideford,  chiefly  remarkable  for  having  a  first-rate  hotel."— Pwncfc,  5th  Oct.  1889. 

~r>IDEFORD. 

TANTON'S  HOTEL. 

UNRIVALLED  POSITION. 
The  best  centre  for  Visitors  to  North  Devon,  Kingsley,  and 
Tennyson  Countries. 
'  Most  comfortable  hotel  in  Nortli  Devon."— TitZe  Hmlth  l!e^i>ri6  of  Kvrcjic. 
'  A  capital  hotel  in  every  way."— 6>or<i«</  and  Dramo.tic. 

FAMOUS   FOR  ITS  FIRST-CLASS  CUISINE. 
Moderate  Tariff  and  "en  pension"  Terms. 

W.  GIDDIE,  Proprietor. 

Price  Sixpence. 

BLACK'S  GUIDE 

TO 

ILFKACOMBE 

AND  NORTH  DEVON 

(BARNSTAPLE,   BIDEFORD,   LYNTON,  LYNMOUTH) 

With  Maps,  Plans,  and  Illustrations. 
A.  &  C.  BLACK,  SOHO  SQUARE,  LONDON. 


10 


BLAIB-ATHOLL. 


BLAIR-ATHOLL. 

ATHOLL  ARMS  HOTEL. 

Adjoining  the  Raikvay  Station. 
The  Situation  is  unequalled  as  a  centre  from  which  to  vii 
the  finest  Scenery  of  the  Pekthshire  Highlands,  comprisi: 
KiLLiECRANKiE  ;  LocHS  TuMMEL  and  Rannoch  ;  Glen  Til 
Braemar  ;  the  Falls  op  Bruar,  Garry,  Tummbl,  and  Fbnde] 
DuNKELD  ;  Taymouth  Castlb  and  Loch  Tay  ;  the  Grounds 
Blair  Castle,  etc. 

This  is  also  the  most  convenient  resting-place  for  breaking  t 
long  railway  journey  to  and  from  the  North  of  Scotland. 

Table  d'Hote  daily  during  the  season  in  the  well-known  magi 
ficent  Dining  Hall,  with  which  is  connected  en  suite  a  spacious  a: 
elegantly  furnished  Drawing  Room. 

Special  terms  for  Board  by  the  week,  except  during  August. 
Tariff  on  Applioation. 
The  Posting  Department  is  thoroughly  well  equipped. 
Experienced  Guides  and  Ponies  for  Glen  Tilt,  Braemar,   and   Mounti 
Excursions.         Telegraphic  Address— Rotel,  Blairatholl. 

D,  MACDONALD  &  SONS,   Proprietors. 


THE   BIRNAM    HOTEL, 

BIRNAM,  PERTHSHIRE. 

"  Make  we  our  march  towards  Bir-na,m."— Macbeth. 
HIS  old-established  high-class  Family  Hotel,  only  one  minute's  walk 
from  the  Highland  Railway  Station,  Birnam,  stands  in  its  own 
nnds,  beautifully  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  River  Tay,  and  on  the 
5  of  the  famous  Birnam  Wood,  amidst  the  finest  scenery  of  the  Perth- 
re  Highlands.  It  has  been  most  elegantly  refurnished  throughout,  and 
1  sanitary  arrangements  entirely  renovated.  Omnibus  attends  the 
ition  Free  of  Charge. 

THE  ROYAL  ROUTE  TO  BRAEMAR. 
A  coach  leaves  the  Birnam  Hotel  every  morning  at  9  a.m.  for  Blair- 
vrie,  in  connection  with  the  Braemar  Coach,  from  July  1st  to  end  of 
)tember.  Tourists  will  find  this  drive  one  of  the  finest  and  most 
tiiresque  in  Scotland.  The  coach  passes  Dunkeld,  via  Meikleour,  the 
lous  Beech  Hedge,  100  feet  high,  and  Blairgowrie.  Salmon  and  Trout 
;hing  (free).  Dark  Room  for  Photography.  Ping  Pong.  Posting. 
rif  moderate.  Telegraphic  Address  :  "  Hotel,  Birnam." 

Mrs.  Cesari,  Proprietrix. 
Also  of  LODORE  HOTEL,  Derwentwater,  Keswick. 

BOURNEMOUTH,  HANTS. 

THE    SOUTH-WESTERN 
lOUSE   AND    ESTATE   AGENCY, 

1  The  Arcade,  Bournemouth. 

ESTABLISHED  1874. 

Iessrs.  JOLLIFFE  &  FLINT  are  the  Agents  for  the  principal  property  owners 
he  District,  and  will  be  happy  to  forward  particulars  of  Houses  to  be  Let  or  Sold 
by  Post. 


12  BOURNEMOUTH (BRAY,See  13,  BRIDGE  OF  ALLAN,  14) — ^BRIGHTO] 

BOURNEMOUTH. 

BOURNEMOUTH     HYDROPATHIC 

New  Sun  Lounge  facing  Sea  and  Pines. 

SITUATED  ill  by  far  the  prettiest  position  on  West  Cliff,  among 
pines  and  magnificent  scenery.     Near  Winter  Gardens,  Pier,  G( 
Links,  and  best  bathing  part  of  l^)each.    Carlsbad,  Vichy,  Marienbad  Watei 
Resident  Physician.     Lift.     Massage  :  Nanheim  and  Aix  treatment. 
N.B. — Turkish,  Sea  Water  Baths,  Billiards,  and  Gymnasium  Free. 
Telegrams  :   "  Hydro,  Bournemouth." 
Book  to  Bournemouth  West.     Prospectus  from  SKCPiETAiiY. 

BOURNEMOUTH. 

ROYAL  &  IMPERIAL  EXETER  PARK  HOTEL 

"Patronised  by  the  Royal  Families  of  Europe." 


The  Residence  of  H.I.M.  The  Empress  of  Austria — Queen  of  Hungar 
and  H.I.  and  R.H.  The  Archduchess  Marie  Valerie. — April  1888. 

NEWLYN'S   ROYAL    &    IMPERIAL    EXETER  PARK   HOTEL.     Beautiful 
Sheltered     Position.      In    Private   Grounds.     One  minute   from  the  Pi 
As  a  Residential  Hotel  unrivalled.     Close  to  Pavilion.     Table  d'Hote  at  7  at  separi 
tables.    Omnibuses  at  East  Station.       UE'NRY  t^EWLY^,  J. V.,  Proprietor 
Seven  Years  Caterer  to  H.M.  Tlie  King  when  Prince  of  Wales  ;  H.R.H.  Duke  of 
Cambridge  ;  H.S.H.  Prince  Edward  of  Saxe-Weimar  ;  and  the  Officers  of  Her 
Majesty's  Brigade  of  Guards,  Guards'  Club,  London. 

BRIGHTON. 

WILD'S  qm 

Y')TEMPERANCE     HOTEL,  )|. 
19  &  20  OLD  STEINB. 

Home  Comforts,  cleanliness  and  quiet ;  one  minute  from  sea.     One 
the  best  positions  in  Brighton.     Close  to  Royal  Pavilion  and  Aquarium 

Also  at  TUNBRIDGE  WELLS. 

York  House  Temperance  Hotels,  Ltd.,  Proprietors 


13 


ETHELL  HOTELS  COMPANY,  Ltd 

GRAND  HOTEL,   MALAHIDE. 

Beautifully  Situated  on  the  Coast. 
15  Minutes  from  Dublin. 

JLFINQ  CENTRE.        BOATING  AND  BATHING. 


lARINE  STATION  HOTEL,  BRAY, 

Co.  Wicklow. 

Splendid  Situation  facing  the  Sea. 
REDECORATED    AND    REFURNISHED 

EXCELLENT  CUISINE  AND   WINES. 

30  Minutes  by  Rail  from  Dublin. 

BRAY  HEAD  HOTEL,   BRAY. 

Situated  under  Bray  Head,  and  commanding 
magnificent  views  of  Dublin  Bay. 

REMODELLED,  REDECORATED,  and  REFURNISHED. 

SANITARY  ARRANGEMENTS   NEW. 

___^r 

Tariff  and  Further  Particulars  sent  on  Application. 


14  BaiDGE  OF  ALLAN  (BRIGHTON,  S^e  p.    12). 

BRIDGE    OF    ALLAN 
HYDROPATHIC   ESTABLISHMENT, 


NEAR  STIRLING. 


numA^Aiy 


1   ij 


T>EAUTirULLY  situated  and  sheltered  by  the  Ochils 
on  a  dry  and  porous  soil.  The  House  is  replet( 
with  every  comfort  and  convenience.  Elegant  Suite  o; 
Baths,  including  Turkish,  Russian,  Vapour,  Spray,  &c. 
all  on  the  most  approved  principles. 

Terms  from  £2  :  12  :  6  per  week. 

Qualified  Medical  man  in  daily  consultation,  who  has  studied 
Hydropathy  at  Smedley's,  Matlock. 

Massage  Treatment. 

Golf  Course  in  Vicinity  of  Establishment. 

Applications  to  be  addressed  to  H.  B.  HIGGINS,  Managei 

BRIDGE  OF  ALLAN. 


/flH 


PHILP'8  ROYAL  HOTEL 


HHHE  finest  HOTEL  in  the  district,  about  one  hour  by  rail  Ironi  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow 
-*-  and  3  miles  from  Stirling.  Most  convenient  lor  Tourists  breaking  their  journe 
to  and  from  the  Highlands.     Bus  to  and  from  Railway  Station. 

An  extensive  Carriage-Hiring  Establishment. 

Telephone  No.  16.  Telegrams :— Hotel,  Bridge  of  Allan. 


BDNDORAN — RUTTERMERE BUXTON.  1  5 

BUNDORAN,  CO.   DONEGAL. 

SWEENY'S    HOTEL?'' 

HE  Hotel  is   beautifully  situated,  overlooking  the  sea.     The  Views 
from  the  various  windows  have  been  acknowledged  as  unsurpassed, 
fiprising  mountains,  sea,  cliffs,  and  gorge.     The  various  apartments  are 
cious  and  comfortable.     Good  Cuisine.     Perfect  Sanitation. 
Lough  Melvin  free  fishing.     'For  terms  apply  to  Manager. 


LAKES  (ENGLISH). 

BUTTERMERE   HOTEL, 

lENDIDLY  SITUATED.    OVERLOOKING  BUTTERMERE  AND  CRUMMOOK  LAKES. 

i^entral  for  Mountain  Climbing.     Good  Fishing  and  Boating. 
COACHES  DAILY  FROM  KESWICK,  via  HONISTAR  PASS. 

Tariff  Moderate. 

ital  Address—  ^.J.    .i.^^^  Telegraphic  Address— 

Buttermere,  Cockermouth.  Buttermere  Hotel. 

JAMES  EDMONDSON,  Froprietar. 

lUXTON  HYDROPATHIC, 

BUXTON,  DERBYSHIRE. 

H.  LOMAS,  Managing  Director. 

legraphic  Address —  National  Telephone — 

"  Comfortable,  Buxton."  No.  5. 


i'i'i^ii     260   ROOMS.  2'»A^«^^ 

ELECTRIC   LIGHT.  ELEVATORS. 

BATHS  OF  EVERY  DESCRIPTION.     ?^''«AM 

Cinderella  Dance  each  Saturday  throughout 
the  year. 


1-6  BUXTON — CALLANDER. 

BUXTON,  DERBYSHIRE. 

PENDENNIS  BOARDING  HOUSE. 

Finest  Situation,  near  Baths.     Excellent  Table,  Large  Library, 
Perfect  Sanitation,  Heated  tliroughoiit  during  Winter. 

Moderate  Terms.  National  Telephone,  109. 

MRS.  MARTLAND  NEWTON,    j 


CRESCENT  HOTEL,  BUXTON, 

DERBYSHIRE. 

THIRST-CLASS  for  Families  and  Gentlemen.  Best  Situation.  Forms  wing  of  th 
*-  Crescent.  Due  South  aspect.  Close  to  Railway  Stations.  Covered  Colonnade  t( 
Baths,  Wells,  and  Gardens.  Dining,  Drawing,  Billiard,  Smoking,  and  Reading  Rooms 
The  Dining  Saloon  is  acknowledged  to  be  one  of  the  finest  rooms  in  the  kingdom 
Suites  of  apartments  for  Families.     Rooms  on  ground  floor  level  if  required.  J 

Electric  Light  in  all  Booms.  \ 

Table  d'Hdte  at  Separate  Tables.    Excellent  Cuisine. 
Choice  "Wines.    Billiards. 
Tblbgrams  "Ckesoent  Hotel,  Buxton." 
National  Tblbphonb,  No.  20.  JOHN  SMILTER,  Proprietor. 

BUXTON. 

SAYOY   HOTEL. 

ADJOINING    Public    Gardens,    Entirely    Re  -  decorated.      Americai 
Elevator.     Electric  Light. 

Excellent  Cuisine.        Choice  Wines.      £ 

JAMES  BAXTER,  Manager. 

CALLANDER 

DUNCAN'S  TEMPERANCE  HOTEL. 

liongest  Established  and  only  First-Class 
Temperance  Hotel. 

PARTIES  BOARDED  BY  DAY  OR  WEEK.  TERMS  MODERATE. 

g^    BOOTS  ATTENDS  ALL  TRAINS.    "^ 

MRS.   a  DUNCAN,  ProprietHx. 


CALLANDER CAPBL  CURIG CARRIGART.  l7 

CALLANDER. 

CALEDONIAN  TEMPERANCE  HOTEL 

s  is  the  only  First-C/ass  Temperance  Hotel  in  Caliander. 

Large  Dining-  Room,  Public  Drawing  Room,  also  Ladies' 

Drawing  Room,  Private  Sitting  Rooms. 

HOT    &    COLD    BATHS.  BILLIARD    ROOM. 

Tickets  for  Trossachs  Coaches  to  be  had  at  this  Hotel. 

Yf.  A.  BIGGS,  Owner  and  Manager. 
graphic  Address-"  BIGGS,  CALLANDER." 

CAPEL  CURIG. 

ROYAL   HOTEL. 

First-Class  Family  and  Posting  House. 

[8  old-established  and  favourite  Hotel  is  beautifully  situated  within  five  miles  of 
Snowdon,  and  commands  some  of  the  most  beautiful  Scenery  in  Wales.  Owing 
e  yearly  increase  in  the  number  of  Visitors  the  Hotel  has  recently  been  consider- 
enlarged  and  fitted  up  with  every  regard  to  comfort  and  convenience.  Excellent 
t  Fianlng  to  be  had  in  all  the  Lakes  and  Rivers  in  the  neighbourhood.  Boats 
to  Visitors  staying  in  the  Hotel)  kept  on  the  Oapel  Curig,  Ogwen,  and  Idwal 
8,  this  Hotel  being  the  nearest  to  the  Lakes.  First-Class  Stabling  Accommodation 
Posting.  A  Coach  leaves  the  Hotel — during  the  Season — three  times  daily  to  and 
Bettws-y-Coed  Station,  Telegraphic  Address— "  ROY  Ah,  CAPEL  CURIG." 

CARRIGART,  CO.  DONEGAL. 

(OSAPENNA    HOTEL 

(THE    IRISH    NORWAY). 

Unequalled  as  a  Seaside  Resort  and  Tourist  Centre. 


HIS   WELL-APPOINTED   HOTEL   contains   65    Bed- 
rooms, Spacious  Public  Eooms,  Drawing,  Smoking, 
Billiard  Kooms. 

The  Golf  Links,  18  Holes,  encircle  the  Hotel  in  a  circuit 
3 1  miles.  Lake  and  River  Fishing.  Sea  Bathing,  Boxes 
vided.    Lawn  Tennis  Court.     Boating.     Cycle  Store  Room 

EEKLY  INCLUSIVE  TERMS  and  Illustrated 
Brochure  on  application  to 

.  .Li«..  .ci  .cij.:.  THE  MANAGER. 

2 


18  CHANNEL    ISLANDS — CHESTER — CHIRK. 

CHANNEL  ISLANDS. 

HOTEL   BEL-AIR,   SERK 

THE  above  Hotel,  wliicli  is  now  under  new  management,  has  been  thoroughly  dor 
u]>  and  improved,  and  all  drainage  put  on  the  best  modern  sanitary  system. 
The  Hotel  stands  300  feet  above  sea-level,  vk'ith  private  Gardens  and  full-size 
Croquet  Lawn. 

Spacious  Dining  Room  (with  separate  tables).  Smoking  and  Drawing  Rooms  ;  an 
numerous  Bedrooms  commanding  extensive  sea  views, 

TEKMS  FROM  7s.  6d. 
N.B.— The  Serk  steamer  leaves  Guernsey  at  10  a.m.  daily  (Saturdays  at  11  a. in 
during  the  summer  months.    Passage  about  one  hour. 
Carriages  and  Porter  from  the  Hotel  meet  the  Steamer. 

CHESTER. 

THE  GROSVENOR  HOTEL. 

FIRST-CLASS.     Situated  in  the  centre  of  the  City,  close  to  the  Cathedral  "  Rowi 
and  other  objects  of  interest. 
Large  CoflFee  and  Reading  Rooms ;  Ladies'  Drawing  Room  for  the  convenience 
Ladies  and  Families ;  Smoking  and  Billiard  Rooms.    Electric  Light  and  Elevator. 
Open  and  close  Carriages,  and  Posting  in  all  its  Branches. 

Omnibuses  for  the  use  of  Visitors  to  the  Hotel,  and  also  the  Hotel  Porters  att« 
the  Trains.     A  Night  Porter  in  attendance.     Tariflf  to  be  had  on  application. 

Apply  to  Manaqer. 

CHESTER. 

QUEEN   RAILWAY  HOTEL. 

CONNECTED  WITH  THE  STATION  BY  A  COVERED  WA' 

STANDS  in  its  own  Grounds.  Hotel  Porters  (in  Scarlet  Livery)  ha 
exclusive  privilege  of  meeting  all  Trains  on  the  Platform,  and  are 
attendance  day  and  night.  Within  a  few  minutes'  walk  of  the  Cathedr 
Telegrapli  Office  in  the  Hotel  open  day  and  night.  Lift  to  all  Floo 
Hotel  Mews  adjoining. 

Telegrams— "QUEEN,  CHESTER."     Telephone  No.  27. 

W.  H.  BURLEIGH,  Manager. 

CHIRK  HAND  HOTEL. 

Family  and  Commercial  Hotel 

IX  minutes'  walk  from  Chirk  Station  ;  one  and  a  half  mile  from  Ch; 
Castle,  which  is  open  to  visitors  on  Mondays  and  Thursday 
situated  on  Offa's  Dyke  at  base  of  Ceiriog  Glen  ;  surrounded  by  so 
of  the  most  interesting  scenery  in  North  Wales. 

POSTING  IN  EVERY  DEPARTMENT. 

Fishing  Tickets  for  the  River  Ceiriog  free  fur  Visitors  staying  at  the  Hott 

Cricket  Ground  within  200  yards. 

MRS.  E.  GRIFFITH,  Proprietress. 


S 


CHRISTCHURCH CLIFTON COMRIE COVERACK.  1 9 

OHKISTCHUECH. 

iEWLYN'S  FAMILY  HOTEL. 

^CING  the  Old  Priory  Church,  Castle,  and  Norman  Ruins.     Views  from  Balcony 
of  the  Isle  of  Wight  and  Needles.    One  and  a  half  miles  from  sea.     Fishing  free 
i/'isitors  staying  in  Hotel.     Three  miles  to  New  Forest.     Fite  miles  from  Boume- 
uth.     Billiards,  Boating,  Tennis,  and  Bowls. 

Telephone,  09.     Telegrams,  "  Whaley  Hotel,  Christchurch." 

Proprietor— A.  WHALEY. 

?n  Pension.— For  a  Lengthened  Stay  arrangements  can  be  made  during  the  months 
)ctober  and  March  at  moderate  inclusive  rates. 


CLIFTON,  BRISTOL. 

HE   QUEEN'S   HOTEL 

For  Families  and  G-entlemen. 

HIS  old-established  Family  Hotel  has  recently  undergone  complete 
alterations,  is  really  comfortable,  and  is  admirably  situated.  It  is 
ir  the  Victoria  Rooms,  New  Theatre,  Downs,  and  Suspension  Bridge. 
,bling  and  Posting.  The  Trams  from  the  Station  and  from  the  City 
iw- Bridge  pass  the  door  every  ten  minutes. 

All  communications  please  address 
CLARA  yUNNEY,  Proprietress. 

COMRIE. 

ROYAL    HOTEL. 

IIS  old-established  Hotel  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  main  road  between  Crieff 
and  Lochearnhead.  The  Hotel  is  replete  with  every  comfort  for  Families  and 
rists,  who  can  be  boarded  on  the  most  moderate  terms  by  the  week  or  month. 

rriages  for  Hire.  Golf  Course  ^vithin  Five  Minxites'  ^nralk. 

Hotel  Bus  waits  all  Trains. 

D.  HAMILTON,  Proprietor. 


GOVERAGK  HEADLAND  HOTEL 

lOVERACK,  ST.  KEVERNE  (via  HELSTON,  G.W.R.). 
'  This  First-Class  Hotel  is  delightfully  situated  on  the  Head- 
d,  commanding  magnificent  coast  views,  including  the  famous 
nacle  Rocks.  Fine  Bathing,  Boating,  and  Fishing.  Lit  with 
jctric  Light  throughout. 

Apply  MANAGERESS. 


20  CBAIGELLACHIE — CRIEFF — CRINAN 

CRAIGELLACHIE. 


-:!^* 


ii-- 


BEAUTIFULLY 

SITUATED  ON  THE 

BANKS 

OF  THE  SPEY. 


CRAIGELLACHIE   HOTEL 

CRAIGELLACHIE,  STRA.THSPEY,  N.B. 

Under  new  management.      Open  all  the  year  round.      Lawn  Tennis. 
Excellent  Cuisine.        Moderate  charges. 

Salmon  and  Trout  Fishing. 

JAMES  EDGAR,  Proprietor.     (Late  of  the  Gordon  Arms  Hotel,  Elgin. ) 
Also  Manager  of  the  Station  Hotel,  Elgin. 


CRIEFF. 

DRUMMOND  ARMS   HOTEL 

AND 

POSTING    ESTABLISHMENT. 

FIRST-GLASS   FAMILY  AND  TOURIST   HOTEL 

W.  C.  S.  SCOTT,  Proprietor. 

CRINAN,  NB.  i 

CRINAN    HOTEI.. 

11 /TOST  suitable  place  for  breaking  journey  to  or  from  Oban.  Finest 
■^  and  Healthiest  Situation  in  the  West  Highlands.  Nineteen  acres 
of  ground.     Splendid  Walks.     Good  Fishing  and  Boating. 

Particulars  from  HENRY  GRUNEWALD,  Proprietor. 


CROMER CRUDEN  BAY  21 

CROMER. 

IBBiVILLE  BOARDING  ESTABLISHMENT, 

Cabbell  Road,  West  Cliff. 
afortable  Refined  Home.     Liberal  Table.     Good  Position. 

Address— M.1^S  KERSEY,  Proprietress. 


CROMER. 

IMPERIAL  HOTEL 

AND  BOARDING  ESTABLISHMENT. 

Under  entirehj  New  Management. 

Refurnished  and  Redecorated  Throughout. 

SEA    YIEW    TO    MOST    ROOMS. 

Tkrms  Modkkatk.        Telephone  No.  5. 
Resident  Fro2)rietor—\\.  W.  CLARKE. 

CRUDEN  BAY. 

A  Popular  Seaside  and  Golfing  Resort, 

30  Miles  from  Aberdeen, 

ON    THE 

[REAT  NORTH  OF  SCOTLAND  RAILWAY. 

splendid  Beach— 2  miles  long.     Sea  Bathing.     Boating.     Fishing. 
Healthy  and  Invigorating  Climate. 

>  Golf  Course  of  18  holes,  laid  out  by  the  Railway  Company,  is  pronounced  by 
?uislied  Players  to  be  one  of  the  best  "in  the  Kingdom, 
lies'  Course  of  9  holes.     

CRUDEN     BAY    HOTEL, 

OWNED  BY 

IE  GREAT  KORTH  OF  SCOTLAND  RAILWAY  COMPANY, 

UPIES  a  Charming  Site,  overlooking  the  Bay  of  Cruden.  Every  Modern 
Accommodation.  Electric  Light.  Ijift.  Bowling  Greens.  Tennis  Courts. 
Bt  Lawns.     Electric  Tramway  between  Station  and  Hotel. 

ress  inquiries  to  the  Manager,  Cruden  Bay  Hotel,  Port  ErroU,  N.B. 

W.  MOFFATT,  General  Manager. 

See  Palace  Hotel  Advertisement,  page  2. 


22  DUBLIN DUGORT 

DUBLIN. 

Charming  situation,  overlooking  Steplien'a  Green  Park. 

Central  Position. 
Moderate  Chargea 


^^ 


ovi 


^^t 


Electric  Light. 


HOTEL,  DUBLII 

Hydraulic  Passenger  Elevate 
Telephone  in  Hoti 


DUBLITs^. 
TELEGRAMS:    "ABBOTSFORD  HOTEL,  DUBLIN." 

THE  ABBOTSFORD  HOTEL. 

72  HARCOURT    STREET. 
FIRST   CLASS.      CENTRAL.       MODERAT 

SELECT.         PRIVATE. 

MRS.  HOME,  Proprieto: 

DUBLIN.  

LARGE  FIRST-CLASS  RESIDENTIAL  ESTABLISHMENT,  best^ 
position,  oi>posite  magnificent  new  buildings  of  National 
Museum,  School  of  Art,  Science,  Picture  Gallery 
and  Ornamental  Gardens,  Leinster  House 

Gardens,  two  Public  Parks  and       ^^,„*-*'  ^ 

principal  places  of  ^^.0^^"*"''''^  ^<  l^^^^l^i*-''^  fashionable 

amusements.  ^^^""""^ ^^^k.  9  G^  ^^■^^""'^^         central  part  ol 

>a^  ^^^.^.x""'''^       City.     Numerous  Suit( 

Private  and  Public  Apartme 

(Replete  ^vith  every  home  comfort 

could  be  desired.)    Charges  Moderate.    Ex 

sively  patronised  by  English  and  American  Tour 

TIoUl  Coupons  accepted. 

FREDERICK  MAPLE,  Proprietc 


^h 


t^ 


^5 


^^5^ 


DUGORT. 


SLIEVEMORE  HOTEL,  DUGORT,  ACHILL  ISLAf 

Balfour's  new  Railway  now  runs  through  to  Achill,  and  the  Island  is  jc 
to  the  mainland  by  a  beautiful  Iron  Swivel  Bridge.  Tliere  is  ample  accommodi 
for  any  number  of  visitors,  and  the  Hotel  has  been  more  than  trebled.  The  Islanc 
a  fine  line  of  sea-cliffs  and  throe  mountains— Slievemore,  Minaun,  and  Slieve  Croug 
The  latter  is  the  highest  marine  cliff  in  Europe,  and  is  not  surpassed  by  any  other  i; 
world  :  Golden  Eagles  still  breed  on  these  cliffs.     Long  Car  meets  Train  at  Achill  Sc 

All  letters  addressed  to  the  Proprietor — 

JOHN  R.  SHBRIDAN,  "Slievemore  Hotel,"  Dugort,  Ac 

Note. — Good  White  and  Brown  Trout  Fishing  can  be  had  in  the  Lakes,  whicl 
in  close  proximity  to  the  Hotel. 


DUMFRIES DUNBLANE DUNOON EDINBURGH.  2  3 

DUMFRIES. 

WOODBANK  MANSION  HOTEL 

DEPLETE  with  every  refined  luxury,  built  and  designed  for  private 
W     use.     Facing  the  River  Nith.     Lovely  Aspects.     Fully  Licensed. 

Charming  Lawns  and  Gardens,  with  Conservatories,  surround. 
THREE  MINUTES  FROM  STATION.     PRIVATE  APPROACH. 

Terms  extremely  moderate. 

For  Terms  apply  MANAGER. 

DUNBLANE. 

STIRLING  ARMS  HOTEL. 

ry  ECENTLY  enlarged,  and  having  all  the  latest  improvements.    Beauti- 

Li     fully  situated  on  the  River  Allan,  fishing  free.    Near  to  Cathedral  and 

,ailvvay  Station.    Charges  strictly  moderate.     Posting  in  all  its  branches. 

TELEPHONE  AND  GOLF  COURSE. 

MRS.  MARSHALL,  Proprietress. 
DUNOON. 

McCOLL'S    HOTEL, 

NEAR  STEAMBOAT  PIER 
ADJOINING  OASTLE  HILL),  WEST  BAY,  DUNOON. 

CHE  principal  and  only  first-class  Hotel  in  Dunoon,  standing  in  its  own 
pleasure  grounds.  Large  additions  recently  completed,  including 
)ining  and  Billiard  Rooms,  Lawn  Tennis.  Celebrated  for  comfort  and 
loderate  charges.  With  all  the  latest  sanitary  improvements  in  perfect 
working  order.  HUGH  McKINNON,  Froprietw. 

Telephone  No.  5.  Telegraphic  Address—"  Luxury,  Dunoon." 

EDINBURGH. 

THE  PALACE  HOTEL, 

PRINCES  STREET. 
PHE  finest  site  in  Edinburgh,  immediately  opposite  The  Castle, 
'-  overlooking  the  Public  Gardens.  First-Class  House.  Sanitation 
'erfect.  Elegance  and  Comfort,  combined  with  Moderate  Charges. 
Lmerioan  Standard  Elevator  by  Otis  Brothers,  New  York,  to  Every 
'loor.     Telephone,  etc.     Personal  Management. 

JOHN  FERGUSON,  ProprietQv. 


24 


EDINBURGH. 


EDINBURGH. 

DARLING'S  REGENT  HOTEL, 


20  WATERLOO  PLACE. 
FIRST-CIiASS    TEMPERANCE    HOTEL. 

Under  personal  management  of  Miss  DARLING. 
Address  for  Telegrams — '^  Darling's  Hotel,  Edinburgh." 


EDINBURGH. 
ESTABLISHED  OVER  HALF  A  CENTURY. 

CRANSTON'S  WAVERLEY  TEMPERANCE  HOTELS. 

OLD  WAVERLEY,  43  PRINCES  STREET.— Telegrams,  "Waverley,  Edinburgh.' 

Accommodation  for  200  Visitors.    Passenger  Elevator.     Electric  Light. 
Recommended  by  Bradshaw's  Tourist  Guide  as  "  the  cheapest  and  best  Temperance 
Hotel  they  had  ever  seen." 
NEW  WAVERLEY,  WATERLOO  PLACE.— Telegrams,  "  Ivanhoe,  Edinburgh." 
First-class  Commercial  House.     Well-lighted  Stock-Rooms  on  ground  floor  fron 
2s.  upwards. 

CHARGES.— Breakfast  or  Tea,  Is.  3d.,  Is.  6d.,  2s.     Public  Dinner,  2s.     Bedroom 
and  Attendance,  3s.     Private  Parlours  from  3s.  6d. 

EDINBURGH. 

SAINT  ANDREW  HOTEL, 

10  SOUTH  SAINT  ANDREW  STREET 
(Adjoining  Princes  Street  and  2  minutes  from  Waverley  Station). 

FIRST-CIiASS    TEMPERANCE. 

40  ROOMS,      ELECTRIC  LIGHT.      ELECTRIC  ELEVATOR. 
TERMS  MODERATE. 

MRS.  ROBERT  STEELE,  Vroinietrix. 


EDINBURGH. 


25 


EDINBURGH. 


JOOKBURN   HOTEL, 

Adjoining  the  Station  and  overlooking  the  Gardens. 
NO    INTOXICATING    LIQUORS. 

JOHN  MACPHERSON,  Proprietor. 

Passenger  Elevator.  Electric  Light. 

EDINBURGH   CAFE   COMPANY, 

70  PEINCES  STREET,  EDINBURGH. 

High -Class  Restaura/ni  for  Ladies  a/nd  Gentlemen. 
BREAKFASTS,  LUNCHEONS,  DINNERS,  TEA,  COFFEE,  &c. 

ELEGANT  SALOON  FOR  LADIKS.     CLOAK-ROOMS, 
SMOKE-ROOMS,  &c. 


Table  d'Hote  (5  Courses),  2/6  per  head. 


26  EDINBURGH. 

EDINBURGH. 

CLARENDON 
HOTEL, 

104  to  106  FRINGES  STB.EET. 

/CENTRAL  Positioii  facing  The  Castle.     Sanitation  Certified.     Eleotr 
Light  throughout.     Electric  Elevators.     Billiard  Room.     Excellei 
Cuisine.     Moderate  Charges.     Under  Personal  Management. 

HUNTER    &    CO., 

Proprietors  also  of  WINDSOR  HOTEL 

Patronised  by  Purveyors  to 

Royalty.  H.M.  Lord  High  Commissioner. 

THETRArOTLLS  HOTEL, 

MORNINGSIDE,    EDINBURGH. 

'pHIS  charmingly  situated  Hotel  is  open  for  residence.  450  feet  above  sea-l(!V( 
-*-  Popular  home  for  invalids.  Mountain  air.  Most  completely  appointed.  Eve 
modern  luxury.  Splendid  Billiard,  Reading,  and  Smoking  Rooms.  Uninterrupti 
Views  of  the  City,  the  Braid  and  Pentland  Hills,  with  the  Firth  of  Forth  and  t 
Highland  Hills  in  the  distance.  Unrivalled  as  a  Golfing  Centre.  Splendid  Fubl 
Course  adjoining  Hotel.  Seventeen  Golf  Courses  within  a  radius  of  14  miles.  Beau 
ful  Walks  and  Drives  in  the  neighbourhood.  Terms  from  £2  :  12  : 6.  Moderate  Tar 
from  Friday  or  Saturday  to  Monday.  Dinners,  Luncheons,  Wines,  etc.  Attractive 
Golfers,  and  economical  and  convenient  for  Visitors.     The  Home  of  Golf. 

Train  and  Tram  from  Hotel  to  all  parts  of  City. 
For  descriptive  Brochure  apply  to  Manager. 

EDINBURCtII. 

ROXBURGHE  HOTEL, 

CHAKLOTTE  SQUAKE,  EDINBUKGH. 
FIRST-CLASS  FAMILY  HOTEL. 

J.   CHRISTIE,  Proprietor, 


EDINBURGH EXETER.  27 

CDINBURGH  HYDROPATHIC 

SLATEFORD,   MIDLOTHIAN. 


MMEDIATELY   beyond   the   Western   Boundary  of  the  City.     Fine 
liracing  Air  olf  Pentland  Hills,  equal  to  that  of  Braeinar. 

Recognised  Centre  for  Tennis,  Croquet,  and  Bowling— 7  fine  Courts. 

Cycle  Course  in  Grounds,  half-a-mile. 

Motor  Car  and  Railway  to  city  (20  minutes),  3d. 

Apply  to  the  MANAGER. 

~~~  EXETER 

POPLE'S 

!IEW  LONDON  HOTEL. 

Patronised  hy  11.  M,  The  King  when  Prince  of  Wales,  and 
T.E.IL  The  Duke  and  Dmliess  of  York. 

PHIS  FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL  is  near  the  Cathedral  and 
^     Stations,  and  adjoining  Northernhay  Park. 

Charming  Old  English  Courtyard  (with  Fernery  and  Fountain 

in  centre  and  lighted  by  Electricity)  as  Lounge. 
ABLE  D'HOTE  (EXCELLENT  CUISINE).      NIGHT  PORTER. 
Moderate  Charges. 

Hotel  Omnibuses  and  Cabs  meet  every  Train. 

POSTING  ESTABLISHMENT. 

Telegrams — "  Pople,  Exeter." 

Resident  Proprietor. 


28  EXETER — FALMODTH FESTINIOG. 

EXETER. 


DIE 


^,^^S^^^^^>^..^^^ 


ROYAL    CLARENCE    HOTEL, 

FACING    GRAND  OLD  CATHEDRAL. 

FIRST-CLASS    FAMILY.  TABLE    D'HOTE,    7   O'CLOCK. 

Ligb-ted  with  Electric  Light. 

Quiet  and  Comfort  of  Country  Mansion.     Moderate  Tariff. 

Telephone  244.  '     J.  HEADON  STANBUKY,  Proprw^or. 

Also  GRAND  HOTEL,  PLYMOUTH. 

FALMOUTH. 

GREEN  BANK  HOTEL. 

Is  beautifully  situated,  with  cliaririing  viows  of  the  Harbour,  Pendennis  and  St. 
Mawes'  Castles ;  and  is  rcjjlete  with  every  Homely  Accommodation  for  Families 
and  Gentlemen.  Hot  and  Cold  Batlis.  Ladies'  Drawing  Room.  Billiard  Room. 
Posting  in  all  its  branches.  High-class  Hotel  with  Moderate  Tariff.  Visitors  taken 
en  pension  during  Winter  Months.     Hotel  Bus  meets  all  Trains  and  Steamers. 

M.  MITCHELL,  Proprietress. 


FALMOUTH. 

"THE   ENGLISH   RIVIERA." 

i„V„~L".  SUMMER  OB  WINTER.  f;— °- 
Paying  Guests  received  in  a  Private  House,  in  own  well- 
slieltered  Grounds,  near  Kailway  Station  and  Beaches.  Rooms 
large  and  lofty.  Bathrooms,  hot  and  cold,  on  each  floor.  Smoking 
Room.  Sanitation  modern  and  perfect.  Bathing,  Boating,  and  Sea 
Fishing.     Address — Mrs.  Mackenzie,  Penwenack,  Falmouth. 


j,|.::  FESTINIOG,  NOETH  WALES. 

PENGWERN  ARMS  HOTEL. 

Qi  PACIOUS  Coffee  Room  and  Good  Private  Rooms.     Wines  and 

^^     Spirits  of  Superior  Quality.      Posting  in  all   its  Branches. 

A  9-hole  Golf  Course  is  now  opened. 

E.  JONES,  Proprietress. 


FOLKESTONE FORT- AUGUSTUS FORT-WILLIAM. 


29 


FOLKESTONE. 

SAYERSTOCK  HOUSE. 

CLAREMONT  EOAD. 

ELECT  BOARDING  ESTABLISHMENT  (or  APART  iM1^:NTS). 
Conducted  on  Christian  and  Temperance  Principles.  Established 
II.  Terms  according  to  Season.  Cycles  housed.  Near  Turkish 
I  Medical  Baths.  Strengthening  non-alcoholic  wines  kept  in  stock, 
.mp.     Telegrams  "  Comfort. "     Central  Station. 

Proprietress— urns  WOODWARD,  M.R  B.N.A. 


FORT-AUGUSTUS. 

CHISHOLM'S    HOTEL. 

Electric  Ligld  througliout. 
Every  Comfort  for  Tourists  and  Others,  with  Moderate  Charges. 

TABLE  D'HOTE  DINNER  on  arrival  of  Evening  Boat. 
Salmon  and  Trout  Fishing  Free  on  Loch  Ness. 

MRS.  CHISHOLM,  Lessee. 


F0RT-W1LLLA.M.  ^ 

THE    ALEXANDRA    HOTEL,  S 

PARADE,   FORT-WILLIAM. 


30  FORT-WILLIAM FOWEY. 

FORT-WILLIAM. 

WAVERLEY  TEMPERANCE  HOTEL 

Under  New  Management. 
Directly  above  Station  and  Steamboat  Pier.    .'.    Tariff  Moderate. 

SPECIAL    TERMS    FOR   WEEK-END. 

M.  CAMPBELL. 

FORT-WILLIAM. 

WEST-END    HOTEL. 

FIRST-CLASS  FAMILY  AND  COMMERCIAL. 

WITHIN  a  few  minutes  of  Station  and  Steamboat  Pier.  Overlooking  Beau- 
tiful Bay.  Kecently  Enlarged,  Decorated,  and  Furnished  on  Modem 
Lines.  Good  Bath-Room  Accommodation.  Under  the  personal  superintendtiice 
of  the  Proprietor,  DONALD  MINTOSH. 

The  Only  Hotel  in  Fort-William  from  ichich  the  Top  of  Ben  Nevis  can  he  seen. 

'  FORT-WILLIAM. 

STATION  HOTEL 

(WEST   HIGHLAND). 

THIS  magnificent  and  sumptuously  furnished  Hotel,  recently  erected  on  an  elevatei 
and  commanding  site,  overlooking  an  extensive  panorama  of  the  grandest  TjOcIi  am 
,  Mountain  Scenery  in  the  Highlands,  Loch  Linnhe,  Loch  Eil,  The  Great  Glen  of  Caledonia 
and  Ben  Nevis.  Pleasure  Grounds  extending  over  Three  Acres.  Terraced  Walks,  Tenui 
Courts,  Golf  Course,  Boating,  Fishing.  Ponies  and  Guides  for  Ben  Nevis,  etc.  Ove 
100  Apartments.  Evei'y  Room  commanding  a  Magnificent  View,  absolutely  unsurpasse 
in  the  Highlands.  Electric  lighting  throughout.  Sanitary  arrangements  on  the  moa 
modern  principles.  Posting— Moderate  charges.  Tlie  hotel  porters  and  omnibuses 
meet  all  trains  and  steamers.  In  connection  with  the  Station  Hotel,  Brora.  Sutherland! 
shire.  GEORGE  SINCLAIR,  Proprietor. 

FOWEY,  CORNWALL. 

ST.  CATHERINE'S    HOUSE.  ; 

FIRST-CLASS  PRIVATE  HOTEL.  ! 

r\N  the  Esplanade,  facing  the  Beautiful  Harbour  of  Fowey  and  the  English  Channel 
^  Recently  erected,  contains  Commodious  Dining,  Drawing,  and  Bed  Rooms,  wit! 
most  Modern  Conveniences.  Offers  exceptional  advantages  to  Families  and  Tourists 
As  a  Tourist  Centre  owns  many  attractions,  and  as  a  Winter  Resort  is  recommended  b; 
the  leading  Medical  Practitioners.  Within  five  minutes'  walk  of  Church  and  Pes 
Office.  Boating,  good  River  and  Sea  Fishing.  Golf.  Frequent  Service  of  Trains  pe 
G.W.R.  TERMS  MODERATE.  Telegrams :  BROKENSHAW,  FOWEY. 

Telephone  :  No.  4  Fowey.  Apply  Mrs.  G.  BROKENSHAW,  Proprietrest 


giant's  causeway GLASGOW.  31 

GIANT'S  CAUSEWAY. 

Tourists  visiting  the  Giant's  Causeway  look  out  for 

KANE'S    ROYAL    HOTEL. 

:IFF.— Tea— Bread  and  Butter,  Gil.  Do.,  with  Preserves  and  Cheese,  9il.  Do.,  with  Boiled  Eggs  or 
)old  Meat,  Is.  Luncheon,  ]s.,  1b.  Gd..  28.  Dinners,  Is.  6d.,  2s.,  2s.  6tl.  Bedroom  for  one  person  from 
)o.,  for  two  occupying  one  Bed,  from  3s.  Posting  in  all  its  branches,  and  at  Lowest  Rates.  Traps 
sry  kind  to  Fair  Head,  Ballycastle,  and  Carrick-a-Rede.  As  the  tram  is  in  connection  with  the 
sway  Hotel,  and  arrives  in  its  grounds,  the  Royal  is  looked  upon  as  opposition,  and  is  not  allowed  a 
r  to  represent  it  at  Tram  Depot.  But  a  Porter  attends  on  the  public  road,  which  is  nearest  way  to 
t's  Causeway.  Pay  attention  to  his  call,  and  don't  mind  Tram  touters.  Coast  Conveyance  m  con- 
on  with  Through  Coach  to  Larne  arrives  at  and  departs  from  this  Hotel.  Tourists  truthfully  iii- 
;d  about  the  same. 
eekly  Terms  on  application. 

GLASGOW. 

ITY  COMMERCIAL  RESTAURANT 

(WAD  DELL'S). 
CENTRAL    AND    COMMODIOUS. 

Within  Three  Minutes'  Walk  of  the  Principal  Railway  Stations. 

Proprietors — 
ITY    COIVIMERCIAL    RESTAURANT   CO.,    LIMITED, 

60   UNION   STREET,    GLASGOW. 


GLASGOW. 
Established  over  Half  a  Century. 

{ANSTON'S  WAVERLEY  TEMPERANCE  HOTEL. 

72  SAUCHIEHALL  STREET.  Telegrams:   "Waverley  Hotel,  Glasgow." 

HIS  Hotel  is  allowed  to  be  unsurpa.s.sed  for  .situation,  for  comfort,  and  for  catering, 
and  is  under  the  personal  management  of  Mrs.  Mason,  daughter  of  the  late 
.  Cranston. 

C/iargfes  .'—Breakfast  or  Tea,  Is.  3d.,  Is.  6d.,  2s.  ;  Bedroom  and  Attendance,  3s. 

CAUTION.— See  that  you  are  taken  to  •' Cranston's  Waverley." 


32 


GLASGOW — GLENELQ. 
GLASGOW. 


THE     BATH     HOTEL, 

152  BATH  STREET,  GLASGOW. 
The  most  comfortable  First-class  Hotel  in  Glasgow.    Very  Moderate  Charges. 
r.  ROBERTSON,  Pkoprietob, 

GLENELG. 
THE  SPORTING  HOTEL  OF  THE  NORTH. 

THE     GLENELG     HOTEL. 

THIS  HOTEL,  which  has  been  rebuilt,  is  situated  in  one  of  the  most  beautiful  parti 
of  the  West  Coast  of  Scotland.  It  is  easy  of  access  by  daily  Steamer  from  Oban 
and  is  quite  near  the  Island  of  Skye.     The  scenery  in  all  directions  is  magnificent. 

The  Hotel  is  one  of  the  most  comfortable  in  the  North  of  Scotland,  and  is  undei 
the  personal  superintendence  of  the  lessee.  The  Bedrooms  are  large,  airy,  and  com 
fortable,  and  the  Coffee  Room  affords  excellent  accommodation.  The  cooking  is  good 
and  the  Wines  and  Spirits  have  been  selected  with  great  care. 

Gentlemen  staying  at  the  GLENELG  HOTEL  have  the  privilege  of  Salmon  anc 
Sea-Trout  Fishing  Free  on  the  Glenelg  River ;  also  Grouse,  Black  Game,  and  Hare 
Shooting  by  the  week  or  month,  at  a  Moderate  Charge. 

The  Sea-Fishing  is  about  the  best  on  the  West  Coast,  and  good  Boats  and  Boatmer 
are  provided  for  guests. 

BILLIARD  ROOM.     HOT,  GOLD,  AND  SHOWER  BATHS. 

Among  places  of  interest  near  are  the  Pictish  Towers  of  Glenbeg,  Cup-Markec 
Stones,  Glenbeg  Waterfalls,  Loch  Duich,  Loch  Houm,  Glenshiel,  Falls  of  Glomach 
Shiel  Hotel,  etc. 

A   SPLENDID  GOLF  COURSE   NEAR  THE   HOTEL. 

RABBIT  SHOOTING   FREE  OF  CHARGE. 

Telegrams  should  be  addressed — "  Gi.enelg." 
Letters  addressed — "Glenelg  Hotel,  Stbome  Feery." 

:9V4SW  8  tfCKTsfl^n:       DONALD  MACDONALD  MACINTOSH,  Lessee. 


GLENGARIFP— GOLSPIE GRAVESEND.  33 

GLENGARIFF,  CO.  CORK. 

rHE  EOGLES  HOTEL. 

(FACING    THE     BAY). 

^IRST=CLASS   FAMILY   HOTEL 

MODERATE    TERMS. 

HE  EGOLES  GLENGARIFP  HOTEL  GO., 
LIMITED. 


GOLSPIE. 
SUTHERLAND    ARMS     HOTEL. 


SAUTI  FULLY  situated  within  a  mile  of  Dunrobin  Castle,  the  Grounds 
of  which  are  open  to  the  Public.    Free  Trout  Fishing  on  Loch  Brora 

parties  staying  at  the  Hotel.     Five  minutes'  walk  from  sea-shore. 

bing  in  all  its  Branches.     Newly  furnished  throughout,  and  under 
management.      An   Omnibus   meets   Trains.      Charges  moderate. 

Bathing  and  Golf. 

ALEXANDER  HARRISON,  Proprietor, 

GRAVESEND. 

)URENDON  ROYAL  HOTEL 

NDER  entirely  New  Management.      Re-furnished  and  re-decorated 
throughout.      Beautifully  situated.     Lawns  to  water's  edge,  and 

>site  the  anchorage  of  all  Ocean  Steamers.     Public  and  Private  Dining 

ns. 

Speciality— Fish  Dinners  and  Whitebait  Teas. 

Telephone,  No.  050.  COSH  &  CO.,  Proprietors, 


34 


ORINDLEP'ORD    BRIDGE — aUKRNSEY. 


GRINDLEFORD  BRIDGE— DERBYSHIRE. 

THE  MAYNARD  ARMS  HOTEL 

THIRST  -  CLASS  Family  and  Tourist.  Bnilt,  decorated,  and  fitted  throughout  as 
-*-  modern  Hotel,  on  up-to-date  lines.  Five  minutes  from  Station  —  Dore  ai 
Chinley  Line.  Situated  in  midst  of  most  picturesque  and  romantic  surroundinj 
with  28  acres  of  rustic  pleasure  ground,  divided  by  Burbage  Brook.  Furnishi 
luxuriously  in  old  English  style.  Most  comfortable,  refined  residence  for  Familh 
Sportsmen,  and  Tourists.  Fishing,  Cycling,  Driving.  Golf  Links,  2  miles— 5  minut 
by  Train.  First-class  Cuisine.  Chef.  Separate  Tables.  Table  d'Hote  meals,  or  d 
carte.    Moderate  Tariff.     Good  Stabling. 

Lessee  and  Manager.— B..  ELLIOTT»^ 

GUERNSEY.  I 

GARDNER'S  ROYAL  HOTEI 

ESPLANADE. 
--       t\  Patronised  by  H.I. H.  Princess  Stephanie. 

THIS  Hotel,  which  occupies  the  finest  position  in  Guernsey,  has  had  extensi 
additions  and  improvements ;  it  will  now  be  found  most  complete,  with  ev( 
modem  requisite  conducive  to  the  comfort  of  Visitors.  The  public  rooms  consist 
Dining  Room  (the  largest  and  best  appointed  in  the  Channel  Islands),  DraAvii 
Reading  and  Writing,  and  Smoking  Rooms ;  there  is  also  a  magnificent  Billij 
Room,  and  large  and  pleasant  Gardens  in  the  rear.  Table  d'Hdte,  separate  Tail 

Telegraphic  Address — "Royal,  Guernsey." 

"YE    OLD£    GUERNSEY    MILK-CAN." 


Maker-- 

A.    P.    ROGER, 

Qoldstnith,  Silversmith,  etc., 

,  10,  AND  42  Arcade,  Guernsey,  C. 


Made  in  all  Sizes  in  Gold,  Silver,  Electro-plati 
Copper,  and  Brass. 

Silver-plated  ^-pint  Cream  Jug  .  5s. 
Do.  ^-pint        do.  .    6s. 

Silver  (Hall-marked)  J-pint  Cream 

Jug 19s. 

Silver  (Hall-marked)  Muffineers,  3s.  9d, 

68.  6d.,  and  8s.  6d.  each. 

Sent  per  Registered  Post,  3c.  Extra. 

Illustrated  Catalogue  Post  Free. 

Telegrams — 

ROGER,  SILVERSMITH,  GUERNSE 


HARROGATE — TIELEKSBURGH HEREFORD — HEXHAM.  35 

HARROGATE. 
THE    GRANBY   HOTEL,   LIMITED," 

HIGH     HARROGATE, 

FACING  THE  STRAY. 

IIS  First-Class  Hotel  stands  in  its  own  extensive  grounds,  and  is  beautifully 
situated  in  the  best  part  of  Harrogate.  Great  alterations  have  lately  been  made 
he  House,  and  Visitors  will  find  in  it  every  convenience.  Carriages  to  the  WeUs  and 
hs  every  morning  free  of  charge.  Ten  minutes'  walk  from  the  Station.  For 
ms,  &c.,  apply  W.  H.  MILNER,  Managing  Director. 

Lawn=Tennis  Ground  adjoins  the  Hotel. 
Good  Stabling  and  Standing  for  Cycles.  Carriages  on  Hire. 

Electric  Light.  Elevator  to  all  Floors. 

HELENSBURGH. 

The  BRIGHTON  of  Scotland. 

[HE  IMPERIAL  HOTEL 

FINEST  POSITION  ON  ESPLANADE,  Two  Minutes  from  Station. 
Beautiful  View  of  Firth  of  Clyde. 

i;W  MODERN   SANITARY  ARRANGEMENTS,  LAVATORIES,  and   SMOKING 
ROOM,    BILLIARDS.      GOOD    COOKING.      Every    Comfort,   combined    with 

DERATE  CHARGES.  ,  BOARDING  TERMS.     TELEPHONE. 

Now  Personally  Supervi.sed  by  the  New  Proprietor,  J,  R.  EIGQiER. 


HEREFORD. 

GREEN  DRAGON  HOTEL 

(Close  to  the  Cathedral  and  River). 

IRST-CLASS  Family  Hotel.  Centre  of  City.  Electric  Light  through- 
out. Excellent  Cuisine.  Moderate  Tariff.  Best  centre  for  tour  of 
jG.  Within  easy  distances  of  Raglan,  Tintern,  Goodrich  and  Ludlow 
jtles,  Malvern  Hills,  Abergavenny,  Llanthony  Abbey,  etc.  Boating  on 
!  Wye  arranged.  Ladies'  Drawing  Room.  Smoking,  Writing,  and 
Hard  Rooms.  For  Tariff"  apply  Manageress. 

HEXHAM,    NORTHUMBERLAND. 

TYNDALE  HYDROPATHIC  MANSION, 

A  Favourite  Health  Resort,  beautifully  situated, 
overlooking  the  VaUey  of  the  Tyne. 

R!TY  OF  AIR  UNSURPASSED.     REPLETE  WITH  EVERY  COMFORT. 
Teems,  from  £2:5:6  pee  "Week. 

FRANK  G.  GRANT,  Proprietor. 


36 


P  ILFRACOMBE. 


AN  IDEAL  POSITION. 

ILFRAGOMBE  HOTEL. 

THE  PRINCIPAL  and  ONLY  HOTEL  on  the  SEA  SHORE. 

THE  FINEST  PRIVATE  MARINE  ESPLANADE  IN  THE  KINGDOM. 

Unrivalled  Sea  Frontage  and  Open  Surroundings. 

Grounds  5  Acres.    250  Apartments.    Tennis.    Croquet.     Bowls.    Golf. 

Elegant  Salle  k  Manger.     Drawing,  Reading,  Smoking,  and 

Billiard  Rooms.     Sumptuous  Lounge  Hall. 

Passenger  Lift.     Moderate  Tariff.     Terms  "en  pension." 

There  is  attached  to  the  Hotel  one  of  the  Largest 
Sea  Water  Swimming  Baths  in  the  United  Kingdom  (the 
temperature  of  which  is  regulated).  Also  well-appointed  Private 
Hot  and  Cold  Sea  and  Fresh  Water  Baths,  Douche,  Shower,  &c. 

H.  RUSSELL  GROVER,  Manager, 
To  whom  all  communications  sTwuld  be  addressed. 
The  Ilfbacombe  Hotel  Co.,  Ltd. 


ILFRACOMBE ILKLEY —  INVERNESS  37 

ILFRACOMBE. 

ROYAL  CLAREMCE  HOTEL 

(The  famous  old  Coaching  House). 
Fifty  well-appointed  Rooms.     The  Hotel  bears  a  high  character  for  its 
Comfort,  Cleanliness,  and  Cuisinerie. 

The  Coaches  for  Lynton,  Lynmouth,  Barnstaple,  etc.,  start  from  the 
Hotel. 

En  pension  Terms  from  2  guineas  according  to  Season. 

G.  BRIGHTLING  TESTER,  Proprietor. 


i 


ILKLEY,  YORKSHIRE. 

MIDDLETON     HOTEL, 


FACING  THE  MOORS. 


M 

•  g 

npHLS  First-Class  Family  Hotel  stands  in  its  own  extensive  grounds,  on  the  banks  of 
-^  tlie  picturesque  River  Wharfe,  six  miles  from  the  famous  Bolton  Woods.  Spacious 
Dining,  Drawing,  and  Coffee  Rooms.  Billiard  and  Smoke  Rooms.  Suites  of  Apart- 
ments, etc.    This  is  the  only  Hotel  in  Ilkley  near  the  Ilkley  Golf  Club— 18-hole  course, 

TABLE   D'HOTE,  SEPARATE  TABLES. 

TENNIS  COURTS.  GOOD  STABLING. 

TARIFF  ON  APPLICA  TION  TO  THE  PROPRIETOR  cfc  MANAGER. 

C.  DILLY. 


INVERNESS. 


WAVERLEY     HOTEL, 


^««Jautos  walk  froai  Ui«  Yi^^^^J  ^^^^ 


UNSURPASSED 


IrA    SITUATION   AND  COMFORT, 

?  '7^i*-,  COMBINED   WITH 

MODERATE  CHARGES. 


Porter  of  the  Hotel  attends  all  Trains,  and  an  Omnibus  runs  in 
connection  with  the  Caledonian  Canal  Steamers. 

Telegraphic  Address—''  WAVBRLBY." 

D.  DAVIDSON,  Frop'ietar. 


38 


INVERNESS — ISLE  OF  MAN JERSEY. 

INVERNESS. 

Telegrams—"  ELLIOT,  INVERNESS."  Tdephone,  No.  48. 

ESTABLISHED   1858. 

ELLIOT    &   CO., 

FAMILY   BUTCHERS, 

DRUMMOND     STREET. 


Special  Attention  paid  to  Shooting  Lodges  and  Yachting  Parties. 
DOUGLAS,  ISLE  OF  MAN. 

WINDSOR  BOARDING  HOUSE. 

CASTLE  MONA  TERRACE,  CENTRAL  PROMENADE. 

Beautifully  situated  on  the  margin  of  the  Bay,  commanding  uninterrupted  views  of 
both  Headlands.  Close  to  Golf  Links,  Tennis,  and  Bathing  Ground,  and  all  places  of 
amusement.        Telegraphic  Address— liAce,  Windsor  Hoiise,  Douglas,  Man. 

Terms  from  5/6  to  6/6  per  day,  inclusive. 

REDUCED  TERMS  FOR  WINTER  MONTHS.  TRAMS  FROM  PIER. 

LATE  DINNERS.  THE  MISSES  LACE,  Proprietresses. 

jersey!  ' 

THE  SOMERVILLE, 

ST.   AUBINS. 

;  FOR  BRAIN  AND  NERVE  REST.     ONE  OF  THE 
I    i     MOST  BEAUTIFUL  SPOTS  IN  THE  WORLD. 


PERFECTLY  sheltered,  standincj  iii  its  uuii  t■^tellM\(  ^mouikK.  (  haiiiniij;  teiiacos, 
J^  commanding  a  view  of  40  miles  of  land  and  sea.  rerfect  quiet.  Good  bathing. 
Excellent  winter  quarters,  the  temperature  comparing  favourably  with  the  South  of 
Europe,  without  its  extremes.  Excursion  cars  leave  the  door.  Write  for  Illustrated 
Descriptive  Tariff.    Terms  en  pension,  8s.  6d.  to  10s.  6d. 

J.  W.  CHAPMAN,  Proprietor. 


JERSEY. 

JERSEY,  ST.  HELIER. 


w 


THE     GRAND     HOTEL. 


rHE  only  first-class  modern  Hotel  facing  the  Sea.     Replete  with  all 
modern  comforts,   and  the  leading  Hotel  in  the  Channel  Islands, 
loderate  terms.  Telegraphic  Address :  "Grand,  Jersey." 

D.  DB  LBIDI,  Manager. 

JERSEY. 

ROYAL  YACHT  CLUB  HOTEL. 

M  THE  OLDEST  ESTABLISHED  • 

FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL  IN  THE  ISLANDS. 

Grand  Position  facing  both  Sea  and  Harbours. 
REBUILT    AND    REFURNISHED. 

OVER  120  ROOMS.        *^^®^  ®'*'^   j 

'BUSES  MEET  ALL  BOATS. 

Telegraphic  Address— "YACHT,  JERSEY."  — ^ 

Far  further  particulars  addi'ess  THE  MANAGER,  who  will  be  pleased 
•  send  a  descriptive  Tariff. 


40  JERSEY. 


"  //  you  want  health  for  the  body,  rest  for  the  mind,  pure  air  and 
splendid  scenery,  all  of  God's  gifts  which  go  to  make  a  terrestrial 
Paradise,  I  emphatically  advise  you  to  go  to  Jersey." 

—Sir  Benjamin  Brodie. 


"SUNNY  JERSEY." 

The  Riviera  of  Great  Britain. 
A  Charming  All-the-year-round  Resort. 

' '  Beauty-Spot.— Holiday-Ground.— Health-Restorer. ' ' 

THE  STEAMSHIP  COMMUNICATION  between  the  Mother -Country 
and  this  "Beauteous  Isle  of  Sunshine,  Fruit,  and  Flowers" 
is  simply  admirable,  via  either  Southampton  (L.  &  S.  W.R.)  or  Weymouth 
(G.W.R.);  and  Jersey  is,  moreover,  a  most  convenient  centre  for  Con- 
tinental trips,  via  St.  Malo,  Granville,  or  Cartaret. 

Lovely  walks  and  drives  of  endless  charm  'raid  picturesque  and  ever- 
changing  scenery  (including  daily  cJiar-d-ianc  excursions) ;  cai)ital  roads  for 
cycling,  safe  sea-bathing  in  two  magnificent  marine-lakes ;  golf,  tennis, 
fishing,  etc.  ;  promenade  concerts  by  military  bands  in  public  parks,  and 
high-class  musical  and  dramatic  evening  entertainments. 

Excellent  hotel  and  boarding-house  accommodation  in  town  or  country 
at  most  moderate  charges.  Superior  scholastic  institutions,  and  well- 
stocked  trading  establishments  supplying  goods  at  exceptionally  favourable 
rates.  Telegraphic  communication  with  both  England  and  the  Continent, 
frequent  mail  deliveries,  and  two  daily  newspapers. 

"For  Health,  Pleasure,  and  Brightest  Weather." 

The  annual  reports  of  the  Meteorological  Council  conclusively  show  Jersey  to 
he  the  Sunniest  Spot  in  the  United  Kingdom,  hence  the 
best  haven  for  health- seekers  and  holiday-makers  alike.  This  favoured  isle  in 
1900  again  headed  the  list  with  a  total  of  2,003 "2  hours  of  bright 
sunshine  for  the  year. 

"  Kissed  by  refreshing  sea-breezes  in  summer,  and  the  balmy  breath  of 
the  Gulf  Stream  in  winter,"  Jersey's  equability  of  temperature  is  its  unique 
feature  ;  while  the  sub-tropical  luxuriance  of  the  vegetation,  the  lovely 
flowers  and  choice  fruit,  speak  for  themselves  ! 

Tv  lev  ding  visitors  shmdd  send  4d.  in  stamps  for  postage  of  a  pre- 
srntation  copy  of  the  Popular  Is.  Album-Guide  '■'Beautiful  Jersey" 
(by  Percy  Edward  Amy,  F.R.G.S.)  to 

The  Secretary, 

JERSEY  COMMERCIAL  ASSOCIATION, 

2  QUEEN  STREET,  ST.  HELIER,  JERSEY,  C.I. 


"/  have  been  round  the  World;  I  know  America,  Africa,  Aus- 
tralia, New  Zealand  ;  I  know  Ewrope  fairly  well.  I  do  not  remember 
having  ever  spent  a  fortnight  more  agreeably  than  in  the  pretty,  pic- 
turesque, and  interesting  little  Island  of  Jersey."— Max  O'Rbll, 


JERSEY —  KILKEE KILLARNET.  41 

JERSEY.  ^U\J 

ST.  BRELADE'S  BAY  HOTEL 

/CHARMINGLY  situated  on  sea-shore.  Recently  enlarged. 
^  Tariff  on  application.  The  only  Hotel  in  Channel 
Islands  affording  facilities  for  Sea  Bathing. 

A.  B.  HARDEN,  Proprietor. 

de^F^yIPS^ JERSEY    E A U - D E-COLOG N E7 

Mrs.  Lancjtry  says:   "I  think  your  Eau-de-Cologne 

■  ■r««%  \         perfect.     It  is  so  fragrant  and  refreshing,  and  I  like  it 

lul  D  V  \       better  than  any  I  have  hitherto  used." 

IVIIIVi  \         Handsome  case  of  two  4-oz.  Bottles  (decorated  with 

I    AEIOTDVO    \  photo-views  of  Jersey)  for  3/6,  post  and  duty  free  to  any 

LllllUI  I  II  1    0     \  P^'^t  "f  the  United  Kingdom.     Large  Cases  at  5/-,  9/6, 

_  a  ■>«»■■  B^  a^H         and  21/-,  all  dutv  and  post  free. 

FAVOURITE   I  F.   G.    DE    FAYE, 

PFRFIIMF     /  Chemist  and  Cologne  Distiller, 

I  LIU  Ulflt../      p^viD  PLACE,  BATH  STREET, 
JERSEY,    CHANNEL    ISLANDS. 

KILKEE,  CO.   CLARE. 

MOORE'S  HOTEL. 

OVERLOOKING  PUBLIC  TENNIS  COURTS  AND  MOORE'S  BAY. 

r\N  direct  line  between  Killarney  and  Connemara  via  Tarbert,  Kilrush, 
and  Moyasta  Junction. 

Cliff  Scenery  ought  not  to  be  missed. 

UNSURPASSED    HEALTH     RESORT. 

Warm  Winter  Climate. 

KILLARNEY  LAKES. 

By  Her  late  Most  Gracious  Majesty's  Special  Perrtiission. 
THE 

ROYAL  VICTORIA   HOTEL 

(Under  Royal  Patronage.) 

MAGNIFICENTLY  SITUATED  ON  LOWER  LAKE,  FACING  INNISFALLEN. 

Highly  recommended  for  its  Superior  Comfort. 

JOHN  O'LEARY,  Proprietor. 


42 


KILLARNEY  -  KIRKWALL^ — LANGHOLM 


LAKE  HOTEL,  KILLARNEY  LAKES. 


Telegrams        Lakf   Hnxri.   Klll^R^■E 


.MOST  .AlODERX  AND  COMFORTABLE  L\  THE  DISTRICT, 

Conveniently  Situated.       Superior  Cuisine  and  Wines. 

PERFECT  SANITATION.  ELECTRIC   LIGHT  THROUGHOUT. 

Spacious  Accommodation.  Moderate  Tariff. 

Patronised  by  His  Most  Gracious  Majesty  The  King. 

The  only  Hotel  in  the  District  situated  directly  on  the  Lake  Shore. 

.4rfc?m<?s— MANAGER,  LAKE  HOTEL,  KILLARNEY. 

"~   K"rRK  W  A  L  L    H  0  T  E  L.      , 

rimiS  FIRST-CLASS  HOUSE  has  been  specially  constructed  with  a  view  io  the 
-L  comfort  and  convenience  of  the  Travelling  Public.  The  Accommodation  consists 
of  Coffee  and  Commercial  Rooms,  Private  Parlours  and  Ladies'  Drawino  Room, 
Billiard,  Smoking,  and  Stock  Rooms.  Light  and  Airy  Bedrooms.  Elegantly  Fur- 
nished throughout  (by  some  of  the  best  Houses  in  the  Trade).  The  Sanitary  arrange- 
ments are  the  Latest  and  most  approved.  Hot,  Cold,  and  Salt  Water  Baths. 
Lavatories  and  Closets  on  each  floor.  There  are  also  rooms  en  suite  for  Families  and 
Private  Parties. 

The  Hotel  occupies  a  Central  Position,  overlooking  the  Harbour,  and  commands  an 
Extensive  View  of  the  Bay  and  surrounding  Islands  (including  Stronsay,  Sanday,  Eday, 
Westray,  Rousay,  Gairsay,  Egilshay,  Weir,  Shapinsay,  some  of  the  South  Isles,  and  the 
Mainland  of  Scotland).  First-rate  Cuisine.  Charges  Strictly  Moderate.  Posting  in  all 
its  Branches,  with  careful  and  steady  Drivers.      WIIiLIAM  DUNNETT.  Proprietor. 

LANGHOLM,  DUMFRIESSHIRK 

ESKDALE  TEMPERANCE  HOTEL. 

20  Miles  by  Road  and  Rail  from  Carlisle  (Waverley  Route). 
Angling  and  Summer  Quarters  on  the  Esk. 

FAMED  for  Salmon,  Sea  Trout,  and  Herling.     Eveiy  Accommodation 
for  Families,  Anglers,  Tourists,  and  Cyclists.     C.T.C.  Quarters. 

20  DiflFerent  Drives  in  neighbourhood  amongst  lovely  Scenery. 

es"  Proprietor  of  the  Celebrated  Eskdale  and  Liddesdale  Coaching  Tours. 

See  |).  85.     Send  for  Tariff  a^d  Coach  Guide  to  WM.  DOUGLAS,  B.G.,  Proprietor. 


LARNE LAUNCESTON LEAMINGTON IJMERICK.  43 

LARNE  HARBOUR  (COUNTY  ANTRIM). 

HDERFLEET  [STATION]  HOTEL. 

CjlIRST-CLASS  HOTEL,  facing  Sea.     Two  minutes'  walk. 
Mail  Steamers  to  Stranraer  and  Rail  to  Belfast,  Port- 
•ush,  Ballycastle,  &c. 

Address-T  HE    MANAGER. 

LAUNCESTON,  CORNWALL. 

WHITE    HART 

FAMILY  AND  COMMERCIAL  HOTEL. 

Within  .a  few  Seconds  of  the  Fine  Old  Castle  and  Beautiful 

Church. 

POSTING    IN    ALL    ITS    BRANCHES. 

BRENDON  PARSONS,  Proprietor. 

LEAMINGTON. 

MANOR     HOUSE     HOTEL. 

yiRST-CLASS  for  Families  and  Gentlemen.  Surrounded  by  its  most  magnificently 
^  laid-out  j^rounds.  sloping  to  the  River  Learn,  facing  the  Puinp-Room  Gardens,  and  in 
lose  proximity  to  both  Railway  Stations — thus  making  it  one  of  the  prettiest  and  most 
onvenient  places  of  resort  in  the  Kingdom.  The  Hotel  has  been  considerably  enlarged  ; 
iirnished  with  all  modern  comforts.  Handsome  Coffee  and  Ladies'  Drawing  Room,  Bil- 
iard  and  Smoking  Rooms.  French  and  English  Cuisine.  Table  d'Hote  at  Seven  o'clock. 
POSTING,  &c.        SPLENDID  NEW  BOXES  FOR  HUNTERS. 

R.  LAM  PLOUGH  &  SONS,  Proprietors. 
(Also  of  Manor  Villas  Private  Hotel,  Leamington,  and  of  the  Pavilion  Hotel,  Scarbo7-o'.) 
Telephone,  No.  542. 

lxmerickT 

ROYAL  GEORGE  HOTEL. 

PIRST- Class  Family  and    Commercial,  most    Central  in   City  , 

has  undergone  extensive  alterations,  newly  refurnished — also 

ifteen  newly  furnished  unsurpassed  Bedrooms  added  ;  Hot  and  Cold 

Baths.      Splendid  Billiard  Eoom.     Sanitary  arrangements  perfect. 

Cook's  and  Gaze's  Coupons  accepted.         'Bus  meets  all  Trains. 

P.  HARTIGAN,  Proj^rirtor. 


44 


LIMERICK LIVERPOOL. 


LIMERICK. 

THE    GLENTWORTH    HOTEL. 

THIS  elegant  and  centrally  situated  Hotel  has  been  prepared  with  great 
care  and  at  considerable  expense  for  the  accommodation  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen  visiting  Limerick,  and  possesses  the  freshness,  neatness,  and 
general  comfort  which  distinguish  the  best  English  and  Continental 
establishments. 

The  Glentworth  is  the  leading  Hotel  in  Limerick,  and  claims  the 
support  of  the  general  public  for  the 

Superiority  of  its  Arrangements  in  every  Department. 

Including  splendid  Coffee  Room,  Commercial  Room  (Writing  Room 
attached),  Sitting  Rooms,  Bedrooms,  Bathrooms  (hot  and  cold  water), 
kc,  &c.     21  new  Bedrooms  added  to  Hotel. 

im^  Commercial  gentlemen  will  find  our  STOCK  ROOMS  all  that  can 
be  desired. 

It  is  the  nearest  Hotel  in  the  city  to  the  Railway  Station,  Banks, 
Steamboat  Offices,  Telegraph  and  Post  Office,  and  to  all  places  of  Amuse- 
ment. P.  KENNA,   Proprietor. 
Omnibuses  arid  Staff  meet  all  Trains  and  Steamers, 
Gaze's  and  Cook's  Coupons  accepted. 
_                                      LIVERPOOL.  ~ 

SHAFTESBURY 

HOTEL.  p 

MOUNT  PLEASANT,  LIVERPOOL. 

A  few  Minutes'  walk  from  Central 
and  Lime  Street  Stations  and  Landing 
Stage.  If  desired,  a  Porter  in  uniform 
will  meet  any  train. 

Electric  Light  throughout  Hotel. 

No  Alcoholig  Drinks  Supplied. 

Electric  Cars  from  Landing  Stage  and 
Castle  Street,  near  L.  and  Y.  Station 
pass  every  few  Minutes. 


LIVERPOOL. 
LANCASHIKE  AND  YOEKSHIEE  EAILWAY 

EXCHANGE  STATION  HOTEL 

( Under  the  Management  of  the  Company). 

Telegra^jhic  Address:  Station  Hotel,  Liverpool.  Telephone:  No.  1173.  In  close  proximity  to  the 
Town  Hall,  Landing  Stage,  Exchange,  and  Principal  Centres  of  Business.  Lighted  throughout  by 
El'-ctricity. 

The  Hotel  offers  every  accommodation  for  Visitors  and  Families  at  moderate  charges.  Rooms  may 
be  telegraphed  for,  free  of  charge,  from  any  principal  station  on  the  Railway,  on  application  to  the 
Stationmaster  or  Telegraph  Clerk.   Further  particulars  can  be  had  onapplication  toTHE  MANAGER. 

Refreshment  Rooms  at  the  following  Stations  are  under  the  management  of  the  Company:— 

Accrington,  Ashton,  Bolton,  Blackburn,  Blackpool  T.  Rd. ,  Bradford,  Fleetwood,  Halifax,  Liver- 
pool, Manchester,  Rochdale,  Salford,  Southport,  Sowerby  Bridge,  Wakefield,  and  Wigan. 

G.  OB,  HAMILTON,  Manager, 


LIVERPOOL — LIZARD — LLANDUDNO.  45 

LIVERPOOL. 

LAURENCE'S 

COMMERCIAL  &  FAMILY  TEMPERANCE  HOTEL, 

CLAYTON  SQUARE 

( Within  Three  Minutes'  walk  of  Lime  Street  and  Central  Stations^  and 
the  Chief  Objects  of  Interest  in  the  Tovm). 

CONTAINS  upwards  of   One    Hundred    Rooms,   including    Coffee    Room,   Private 
Sitting  Rooms,   Billiard  and  Smoke    Rooms,   Large    and  Well -Lighted    Stock 

Rooms.  HEADQUARTERS  CYCLISTS'  TOURING  CLUB. 

Telephone  No.  1557. 

LIZARD  POINT,  CORNWALL. 

THE    LIZARD    HOTEL 

pHE  oldest  established  and  most  central  Family  Hotel  in  the  district :  is  the  nearest 
-•-  hotel  to  the  celebrated  Kyuance  Cove,  being  within  15  minutes'  walk.  It  is 
situated  on  the  Lizard  promontory,  and  is  the  most  Southern  Hotel  in  England, 
"ecently  enlarged  and  entirely  renovated.  Postal  and  Telegraph  Office  adjoining. 
Dairy  Farm  in  connection  with  the  Hotel.  Table  d'Hote,  7  p.m.  daily.  Delicious 
itmosphere.  Close  to  new  Golf  Links.  Boating,  Fishing,  and  Bathing.  Terms 
noderate — Pension. 

Telegrams:  Hill's  Lizard  Hotel,  Lizard.  JAMBS  A.  HILL,  Proprietor. 


LIZARD,  CORNWALL. 

HOUSEL    BAY    HOTEL. 

SPLENDID  BRACING  CLIMATE. 

T^HIS  First-Class  Hotel  commands  Magnificent  Views  of  the  famous 
■^     Lizard  Head,  and  is  the  only  Hotel  situated  close  to  the  Sea  and 
t)eautiful  Housel  Bay  Beach.     Golf,  Bathing,  Boating,  Fishing,  Billiards. 
Special  Coach  to  and  from  Helston  Station  (G.W.R.) 
Tariff  on  afrplication  to  Manager. 

LLANDUDNO,  NORTH  WALES. 

IMPERIAL    HOTEL. 

Most  Centrally  situated  on  the  Promenade,  facing  Sea. 

130  WELL-APPOINTED  SITTING  AND  BED  ROOMS. 

Lounges.    Passenger  Lift.    Electric  Light  in  every  room. 

GOLF    LINKS. 

Night  Porter.     Private  Omnibus.    Stabling. 
For  Moderate  Tariff  and  other  particulars  apply 

JOHN  CHANTREY,  Proprietor. 


46 


800  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea. 


LLANDRINDOD — LLANGOLLEN. 

LLANDRINDOD  WELLS. 


90  minutes  from 
Shrewsbury. 


PUMP    HOUSE    HOTEL. 

(With  its  renowned  Saline  and  Sulphur  Springs,  used  medicinally  for  upwards  of  200  years. 
ESTABLISHED  vm.  REBUILT  AND  REFURNISHED  1888  AND  1900. 


WEST   VIEW   OF   HOTEL, 


THIS  Old-Esta Wished  Hotel,  standing  in  its  own  Ornamental  Grounds  of  upwards  of 
100  acres,  adjoins  the  Old  Pump  Room  and  Baths,  has  an  unrivalled  position  in 
this  Fashionable  health  resort,  and  with  the  new  wing  just  added  contains  150  Rooms, 
which  comprise  Handsome  Table  d'Hote  Dining  Room,  and  Elegantly  Furnished 
Drawing  Room,  Private  Sitting,  Bed,  and  Dressing  Rooms  en  suite.  Coffee,  Smoking, 
and  Billiard  Rooms  on  Ground  Floor.  Large  Reading  and  Writing  Room  adai)ted  for 
Dancing.  Bath  Rooms,  Lavatory,  and  all  modern  Conveniences.  A  Private  Band  plays 
in  the  Hotel  Grounds  at  intervals  during  the  day.  Recent  extensions  include  a  magnifi- 
cent Pump  Room,  an  elegantly  appointed  Lounge,  and  other  luxurious  Public  Rooms. 
The  Hotel,  the  largest  in  the  principality  and  one  of  the  most  comfortable  in  Europe,  is 
Electrically  Lighted  throughout,  and  has  a  Passenger  Elevator,  Hotel  Mineral  Springs, 
Hotel  Sulphur  Baths,  Hotel  Heat  Baths,  etc.  Within  100  yards  of  the  Hotel  is  an 
Ornamental  Lake,  with  a  large  supply  of  Boats,  and  adjacent  are  Golf  Links,  Lawn 
Tennis  Courts,  Bowling  Green,  etc.  Fishing  in  Preserved  Waters.  Horses,  Carriages,  etc. 

LLANGOLLEN. 

ROYAL  ^»^  HOTEL. 

THE  above  first-class  Hotel  is  now  under  the  Proprietorship  of  James 
S.  SitAW  (several  years  with  Mr.  Mehl,  at  Queen's  Hotel,  Manchester, 
and  at  County  Hotel,  Carlisle).  The  extensive  alteration  and  enlargement 
which  have  been  recently  carried  through  make  it  one  of  the  most 
convenient  and  best  appointed  Hotels  in  North  Wales,  while  its  Cuisine, 
comfort,  and  situation  are  unsurpassed. 

Telephone  No.  2.  HOTEL  OMNIBUS  MEETS  ALL  TRAINS. 


LOCH  AWE — LOCH  EARN  HEAD — LOCH  LOMOND.  47 

THE  LOCH  AWE  AND  DALMALLY  HOTELS, 

ARGYLLSHIEE. 

The  extensive  additions  to  the  Loch  Awe  Hotel  are  now  completed. 
Large  alterations  have  been  done  at  Dalmally  Hotel. 

THE  scenery  round  these  well-known  Hotels  is  certainly  the  finest  in  the  Highlands. 
Situations  unsurpassed.    The  great  centres  for  tourists.     Numerous  delightful 
Excursions  by  coach,  rail,  and  steamer. 

Capital  Salmon  and  Trout  Fishing,  Boating,  Tennis^  Billiards,  etc. 

Splendid  Steam  Launch.  "  Mona,"  for  towing  Boats  to  best  Pishing- Ground, 

and  for  Hire  with  Excursion  Parties. 

The  centre  of  numerous  Daily  Excursions  to  Places  of  Great  Beauty  and  Historical  Interest. 

N.B.— Parties  holding  through  tickets  are  permitted  to  break  the  journey  at  either 

Loch  Awe  or  Dalmally. DUNCAN  ERASER,  Proprietor. 

LOCH  AWE. 

PORTSONACHAN     HOTEL. 

rPHIS  Hotel  has  superior  advantages,  being  away  from  the  noise  and  bustle  in- 
-*-  cidental  to  railroad  Hotels,  and  easy  of  access,  only  half  an  hour's  journey  from 
Lochawe  Station  (Callander  and  Oban  Railway),  where  the  Hotel  steamer  Caledonia 
makes  connection  with  the  principal  trains  during  the  season.  Letters  delivered 
twice,  and  despatched  three  times  daily.  Postal,  Telegraph,  and  Money  Order  Office 
in  Hotel  buildings.  Presbyterian  and  Episcopalian  Churches  within  easy  walking 
distance  of  Hotel.  Tennis  court,  beautiful  drives,  first-class  boats,  experienced 
boatmen.  Posting  and  Coaching.  Charges  moderate.  Thomas  Cameron,  Proprietor, 
Originator  of  the  Oban,  Lochawe,  and  Glenaut  circular  tour.    Telegraphic  address, 

CAMERON.  PORTSONACHAN. 


LOCH  EARN  HEAD  (PERTHSHIRE) 

LOCH  EARN  HEAD  HOTEL. 

(Under  Royal  Patronage.     Twice  visited  by  Qiieen  T-'ictoria.) 

THIS  Hotel,  which  has  been  long  established,  has  excellent  accommodation  for 
Families  and  Tourists,  with  every  comfort  and  quiet,  lies  high  and  dry,  and 
charmingly  sheltered  at  the  foot  of  the  Wild  Glen  Ogle  (the  Kyber  Pass).  It  commands 
fine  views  of  the  surrounding  Hills  and  Loch,  the  old  Castle  of  Glenample,  the  scenery 
of  the  Legend  of  Montrose,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Ben  Voirlich,  Rob  Roy's  Grave, 
Loch  Voil,  Loch  Doine,  and  Loch  Lubnaig,  with  many  fine  drives  and  walks.  Posting, 
Billiards,  Golf.  Boats  for  Fishing  and  Rowing  free.  Hotel  'Bus  meets  principal  trains 
at  Loch  Earn  Head,  and  Caledonian  Coaches  at  St.  Fillans,  during  Summer.  An 
Episcopal  Church.  Ladies'  Golf  Course  adjoins  Hotel. 
EDWIN  MAISEY,  Proprietor. 

ARDLUI      HOTEL. 

HEAD  OF  LOCH  LOMOND. 

Three  minutes'  walk  from  Steamboat  Pier  and  Ardlui  Station,  West  HigJdand  Railway. 

THIS  Hotel  is  beautifully  situated  amidst  unrivalled  scenery,  and  commands  a 
magnificent  view  of  the  Locli.  Tlie  Hotel  has  been  remodelled  and  refurnished, 
and  additions  have  been  made ;  the  sanitary  arrangements  are  new,  and  have  been 
carried  out  on  the  most  improved  principles.  Visitors  staying  at  this  house  will  find 
every  comfort  and  attendance,  with  boats  and  fishing  free.  Delightful  daily  tours 
can  be  arranged  to  Loch  Katrine,  Loch  Awe,  Loch  Tay,  Loch  Long,  etc.  Passengers 
travelling  South  by  West  Highland  Railway  change  here  for  Loch  Lomond  and  Loch 
Katrine.  Parties  boarded  by  week.  Special  week-end  terms,  except  in  August. 
Telegrams:  "Dodds,  Ardlui."  D.  M.  BOBDS,  Proprietor. 

N.B.— Grand  Circular  Tour  by  Rail,  Coach  and  Steamer  daily  from  Edinburgh 
and  Glasgow.  Further  particulars  can  be  obtained  at  Crianlarich  and  Ardlui  Hotels, 
also  from  the  North  British  and  Caledonian  Railway  Companies'  Tourist  Guides. 


48  LOCH  FVNK — LOCH  LOMOND. 

LOCHGAIR    HOTEL. 

THIS  Hotel  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  Head  of  Lochgair  (an  arm  of 
Loch  Fyne),  and  on  the  public  road  to  Inveraray.  It  has  many 
advantages,  being  within  easy  access  of  Ardrishaig,  where  the  Hotel  coach 
makes  connection  with  the  Steamers  "Columba"  and  "loiia,"  also  with 
the  "  Lord  of  the  Isles  "  at  Crarae,  seven  miles  distance. 

TENNIS  COURT  in  front  of  Hotel,  also  GOLF  COURSE. 

EXCELLENT    TROUT    FISHING 

in  preserved  Loch,  which  has  been  stocked  with  Loch  Leven  Trout,  and 
excellent  baskets  can  be  had.  Good  baskets  of  Whitings,  Cod,  and 
Lythe,  etc.,  can  be  had  at  all  times  in  Lochgair  or  Loch  Fyne.  There 
has  been  constructed  a  good  canal  and  slip  for  the  convenience  of  yachts' 
people  and  visitors  boating — accessible  at  all  states  of  the  tide. 

Post  and  Telegraph  OflSce  One  Minute  from  Hotel. 

HIRING  IN  ALL  ITS  BRANCHES  AT  MODERATE  CHARGES. 

ARCHD.  BROWN,  Prop-ietor. 

Telegraphic  Address—"  Brov4^n,  Lochgair" 


LOCH    LOMOND. 

INVERSNAID  HOTEL 

THIS  Hotel  is  centrally  situated  in  the  Scottish  Lake  District  amidst 
unrivalled  scenery.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  many  places  of 
interest,  such  as  Rob  Roy's  Cave,  the  islands  on  Loch  Lomond,  on  some 
of  which  are  the  remains  of  feudal  strongholds,  and  within  a  few  yards  of 
the  Hotel,  Inversnaid  Falls,  rendered  famous  by  Wordsworth  in  his  poem 
"To  a  Highland  Girl." 

Coaches  to  and  from  Loch  Katrine  in  connection  with  all  the  sailings 
of  the  steamer  there  to  and  from  the  Trossachs. 

LAWN    TENNIS.     BOATS.     BILLIARDS,  dbc. 

TROUT  PISHING  ON  THE  LOCH  FREE. 

Parties  Boarded  by  Week  or  Month,  except  in  August. 
Post  and  Telegraph  Office  in  the  Hotel. 

ROBERT  BLAIR,  PropHetor. 


LOCH  LOMOND LOCH  MAREE. 

LOCH  LOMOND. 


49 


THE  TARBET  HOTEL  LOCH   LOMOND. 


HIS  Hotel  has  lately  undergone  considerable  alterations  with  extensive  additions,  com- 
prising Billiard  Room,  Sitting  Rooms,  Ladies'  Drawing  Rooms  and  Bedrooms,  Ac. 
ating.    Pishing,    Croquet.    Lawn  Tennis.    Posting  in  all  its  branches.    Parties  boarded 
moderate  terms.     Cycle  House. 

P(\!^.  ftmd  TeUara/nh — Hott?l.  Tarbwt.  Look  Lomokp. 

LOCH  MAREE,  ROSS-SHIRE,  N.B. 

KENLOCHEWE     HOTEL 

The  Hotel  is  situated  near  the  head  of  Loch  Maree  aud  teu  miles  from  Auchuasheen  Station,  where  a 
ubiic  coaoh  awaits  conveyance  of  passengers;  private  carriages  can  be  obtained  by  wiring  "Hotel," 
^nlochewe.  Boats  for  fishing  free  on  Loch  Maree.  Fine  drives  in  different  directions.  The  drive  to 
loch  Torridon,  past  Loch  Clare  and  through  Glen  Torridon,  being  one  of  the  finest  in  Scotland.  Ben 
lioch  (3216  feet)  Is  easily  reached  from  the  Hotel.  A  Steamer  plies  up  and  down  the  Loch  daily,  lying 
t  this  end  over  night.  It  starts  every  morning  at  8.30  and  in  the  afternoon  at  2.30.  Families  boarded  by 
'eek  or  month. 

Lunch  always  ready  for  passengers  arriving  by  Steamer  en  route  for  Auchnasheen  Station. 

Carriages  and  horses  for  Hire.        Wines,  Spirits,  etc,  of  the  finest  quality. 

otters  and  Telegrams  carefully  attended  to.  Mbs.  MACDONALD,  Proyrietrix. 


LOCH     MAREE     HOTEL. 

ROSS -SHIRE. 
Lately  Her  Majesty's  IRTest  Highland  Residence. 

PHIS  Hotel,  beautifully  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  Loch  Maree  District,  and  over- 
*-  looking  the  Loch,  is  now  leased  by  Mr.  T.  S.  M'Allister,  Inverness,  and  under 
lis  Management. 

^.B. — A  Coach  awaits  the  arrival  of  MacBraym's  Steamers  at  Gairlorh,  if  wired  for,  during 
the  Season  to  convey  Passengers  to  Loch  Maree  Hotel  direct,  eight  miles  distant. 

Visitors  can  have  Salmon  and  Trout  Fishing  Free,  over  20  sq.  m.  of  Loch. 

Boats  and  Tackle  supplied  from  the  Hotel. 

POST  AND  TELEGRAPH   OFFICE  ADJOINS  THE   HOTEL, 

POSTINQ.  1  CHARGES    MODERATE, 


50 


LOCH  NESS LOCH  SHIN LONDON. 


LOCH  NESS. 
(Under  New  Management.) 

FO YE  RS      HOTE 


U 


NEAR  the  Celebrated  Falls  of  Foyers,  Beautifully  situated,  and  commanding 
Finest  Views  of  Loch  Ness  and  the  Great  Glen.  Redecorated  and  most  Com- 
fortably Refurnished  throughout.  Salmon  and  Trout  Fishing  Free  to  Visitors.  Foyers 
is  the  best  place  for  Passengers  down  the  Caledonian  Canal  to  break  their  journey,  as 
Steamers  from  Inverness  arrive  about  5.15  p.m.,  leaving  Foyers  about  9  a.m.  next 
morning,  thus  avoiding  the  early  start  from  Inverness.    Electric  Light. 

POSTING.  Telegrams— HOTEL,  FOYERS. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office.    Charges  Strictly  Moderate. 

S.  TILSTON,  Proprietor. 


LOCH  SHIN. 


OYERSCAIG  HOTEL,  SUTHERLANDSHIRE 


Via  LAIRG,  N.B. 
THB    ANQLERS'   PARADISE. 

For  Trout  and  Ferox  Fishing  on  Loch  Shin,  Loch  Merkland,  Loch  Griam, 

Loch  Gorra,  and  other  Waters. 

Angling  on  Garvie  and  Merkland  Rivers  for  Salmon  and  Grilse. 

GOOD  BOATS  AND  EXPERIENCED  GILLIES.  POSTING. 

DUNCAN    MACKAY. 

LONDON. 

HOTEL    DIEUDONN^. 

RYDER    STREET,   ST.   JAMES',  LONDON. 

Telegrams— 

"GufFanti,  London." 

Telephone— b265  Gerrard, 

Handsomely  Redecorated 
and  Furnished  throughout. 

Electric  Passenger  Lift 
to  all  Floors. 

Apartments  en  suite  and 
self-contained. 

Greatly  renowned  for 
its  excellent  Cuisine. 

Write  for  Illustrated 
Brochure  and  Tariff. 
Charges  Moderate, 


LONDON.  61 

NEAR  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM. 

KINGSLEY   HOTEL, 

Hart  Street,  Bloomsbury  Square,  LONDON. 
OPPOSITE  THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM. 

THACKERAY   HOTEL, 

Great  Russell  Street,  LONDON. 

These  large  and  well-appointed  Temperance  Hotels  have 
Passenger  Lifts.     Electric  Light  throughout.     Heated  throughout. 

Bathrooms  on  every  Floor. 
Spacious  Dining,  Drawing,  Writing,  Reading,  and  Smoking  Rooms. 

Fireproof  Floors.      Perfect  Sanitation.      Telephone. 
Night  Porter. 

The  Kingsley  Hotel  has  a  good  Billiard  Boom. 
Bedrooms  from  2/6  to  S/6. 

Full  Tariff  and  I'esHvionials  on  application. 

Inclusive  charge  for  Bedroom,  Attendance,  Table  d'Hdte  Breakfast 
and  Dinner,  from  8/-  to  lo/6  ($2.00  to  $2.50)  per  day. 


ILSO  UNDER  the  SAME  MANAGEMENT  .  .  . 

ESMOND   HOTEL, 

1  Montague  Street,  Russell  Square,  LONDON. 

This  Temperance  Hotel  adjoins  the  British  Museum,  and  is 
exceptionally  quiet  and  economical. 

Bedrooms  from  2/"  to  3/6  per  night. 

Fall  TaHff  and  Testimonials  on  application. 

TELEQUAFHIC     ADDKESSES— 
Kingsley  Hotel,  I  Thackeray  Hotel,  I  Esmond  Hotel, 

"BOOKORAFT,  LONPON."       |     "  ThACKERAY,  LONDON."     |        "  TrUSLOVE,  LONDON, 


52  ^  LONDON. 

LONDON.  ^^-^^^^^^  ^^«^  v^ 
,dk         WILD'S         ^I^ 

TEMPERANCE    HOTELS 

(Limited),  Jiilli' 

30  to  40  LUDGATE   HILL. 

ALSO  AT 

70  and   71    EUSTON   SQUARE. 

3  minutes'  walk  from  London  d  North-Western,  Midland, 
and  Great  Northern  Railway  Stations. 

HOME  COMFORTS.  CLEANLINESS  AND  QUIET. 

CENTRAL  FOR  BUSINESS  AND  PLEASURE. 

WOBURN  HOUSE  FAMILY  HOTEL 

(Bed  and  Breakfast  from  5s. 
En  Pension  from  7s.  per  day), 

UPPER  WOBURN  PLACE,  W.C. 

(Opposite  St.  Pancras  Church.) 


Eefurnished  by 
MAPLE    &    CO. 


Electric  Light  and  all 
Modern  Improvements. 

Close  to  Euston,  St.  Pancras,  and  King's  Cross  Railway  Stations. 
YBRY    CENTRAL    TO    ALL    PARTS. 

M.  BARTLETT,  Proprietress, 


LONDON.  53 

THE 

WESTMINSTER  PALACE  HOTEL, 

LONDON,  S.W. 

IMMEDIATELY  OPPOSITE  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY  AND  THE  HOUSES  OF  PARLIAMENT. 

Close  to  all  the  Government  and  Colonial  Offices,    Most  conveniently  situated  for 
all  purposes,  sight-seeing  or  otherwise.   Fitted  throughout  with  Electric  Light.    liifts, 
and  every  modern  convenience.     Moderate  Tariff,  and  no  charge  for  Attendance, 
rp  1     /  graph,    "  Hostelry,  London." 
^*'"''\  phone,   70  Westminster. 

LONDON. 
Established  over  Half  a  Century. 

CRANSTON'S  WAVERLEY  TEMPERANCE  HOTELS. 

37  KING  STREET,  OHEAPSIDE,  E.G.       Telegrams,  "Redgauntlet,  London." 

In  the  centre  of  the  City.  Bxcei)tional  advantages  to  persons  visiting  London  on 
business.     CHARGES— Breakfast  or  Tea,  1/3,  1/6,  2/.     Bedroom  and  attendance,  3/. 

SOUTHAMPTON  ROW,  RUSSELL  SQUARE,  W.C.  Telegrams,  "Robsart,  London." 

The  property  of  Cranston's  liondon  Waverley  Hotel  Company,  Limited. 
Magnificently  funiislied.     Electric  Light  and  Elevator.     Inclusive  Cliarge  for  Bed, 
Breakfast,  Attendance  and  Bath,  5/.     Convenient  for  City  and  I^aw  Courts. 
CA  UTION. — Hee  that  you  are  taken  to  Crayisfon's  Woceiieys. 

DEVONSHIBE    HOUSE    HOTEL, 

12  BISHOPSGATE  STREET  WITHOUT,  LONDON,  E.C. 
OPPOSITE  LIVERPOOL  STREET  STATION. 
A  Mrst-Class  Te7nperance  Hotel. 
■yiSITORS  to  London  will  find  this  one  of  the  most  central  positions  from  which, 
^     whether  by  Rail,  Omnibus,  or  Tram,  they  can  reach  all  parts.    The  Hotel  is  fitted 
with  every  modem  improvement.     The  Public  Rooms  and  Private  Sitting  Rooms  are 
handsomely  furnished,  and  the  Bedrooms  will  be  found  most  comfortable.    Liberal 
arrangements  made  with  those  staying  a  lengthened  period. 

A  Porter  is  in  attetidance  all  night.  Passenger  Lift  to  each  Floor. 

Electric  Light  in  all  Public  Rooms. 

Telephone  No.  2495.     Telegraphic  Address— "  EXTERIOR,  LONDON." 

TrANTER'S  hotel,  LONDON. 

FAMILY   AND    COMMERCIAL   TEMPERANCE. 

Over  60  Bedrooms.     Good  Coffee,  Sitting,  and  Smoking  Rooms. 

6  to  9  Bridgewater  Square,  Barbican,  close  to  Aldersgate  St.  Railway  Station, 
near  St,  Paul's  Cathedral,  G.P.O.,  and  all  places  of  interest.  Beds  from  2/,  no  charge 
for  attendance.  Perfect  Sanitary  arrangements.  Established  1859,  five  times  en- 
larged. Write  for  ^^  How  to  spend  a  Week  in  London,"  with  Tariff  and  Testimonials 
combined,  post  free.    Night  Porter.    Clean,  Quiet,  Home-like,  and  Inexpensive. 

Electric  Light  througho^U. 

Telegraphic  Address— "  HEALTHIEST,  LONDON." 


54 


LONDON. 


LAMBERT, 

#0ltrsmitjjs,  i^Mto,  atttr 
3tl&ramitjjs 

TO    HIS    MAJESTY    THE    KING 

AND  HER  UTE  MAJESTY  QUEEN   VICTORIA 


Antique  and  Modern  Diamond  Work 
and  Silver  Plate.      -rzry^A^ 

Sacramental  anti  IPtesentation  lg)Iate* 


10,  11,   12  COVENTRY  STREET, 

PICCADILLY,    LONDON,    W. 


LONDON. 


65 


SUN    FIRE   OFFICE 


(FOUNDED  1710). 


The  Oldest 

Insurance 

Office  in  tlie 

World  doing 

Fire  Business 

only. 


DIRECTORS. 
Frederick  Henry  Norman,  Esiq.,  Chairman  and  Treasurer. 


Cecil  Chaplin,  Esq. 

Edward  Dent,  Esq. 

Viscount  Emlyn, 

Alfred  Farquhar,  Esq. 

The  Hon.  William  Henry  Goschen. 

The  Marquess  of  Granby. 

Henry  Riversdale  Grrnkell,  EJsq. 

John  G.  B.  T.  Hildyard,  Esq. 

Richard  Biddulph  Martin,  Esq.,  M.P 

Geo.  E.  Mead 

John  ISmith 


Assistant  Secretaries. 


The  Hon.  Algernon  H.  Mills. 
Sib  Hugh  C.  G.  Montgomery,  Bart. 
Lord  Henry  Nevill. 
Lambert  Pole,  Esq. 
Marlborough  R.  Pryor,  Esq. 
Colonel  Frederick  Henry  Rich. 
The  Hon.  Arthur  SSaumarez. 
The  Hon.  C.  L.  Sclater-Booth. 
Charles  A.  Soott-Murray,  Esq, 

Edward  Baumer,  Secretary. 


MODERATE  RATES.  PROMPT  SETTLEMENTS. 

LOSSES  BY  LIGHTNING  ADMITTED. 
APPLICATIONS  FOR  AGENCIES  INVITED.  i  ) 

HEAD  OFFICE:  63  THREADNEEDLE  STREET,  E.G. 

BRANCHES. 


London,  60  Charing  Cross. 

„         332  Oxford  Street. 
40  Chancery  Lane. 

,,         42  Mincing  Lane. 
Birmingham,  10  Bennett's  Hill. 
Bristol,  Corn  Street. 
Liverpool,  6  Chapel  Street. 
Manchester,  71  King  Street. 


Yorkshire— Leeds,  15  Park  Row. 

„  Bradford,  2  Piccadilly. 

,,  Hudderstield,  Station  St. 

Hull,  32  High  Street. 
Newcastle-on-Tyne,  19  Collingwood  St. 
Edinburgh,  40  Princes  Street. 
aiasgow,  42  Renfield  Street. 
Dublin,  12  Trinity  Street. 


66 


LONDONDERRY — L038IBMOUTH — LOITGH  :5W1LLY. 


LONDONDERRY. 

IMPERIAL   HOTEL. 

rrniS  FIRST-CLASS  FAMILY  and  COMMERCIAL  HOTEL  is  situated 
■*-  in  the  best  part  of  the  City,  stands  within  the  City  Walls,  and  is  in 
close  proximity  to  the  Cathedral,  County  Court  House,  City  Hall,  etc. ;  is 
most  central  for  business  of  all  kinds. 

THOMAS  MARSHALL  HEGAN,  Propriety. 
Owing  to  recent  Extension  of  the  Railway  System,  Londonderry  vnll  he  found 
the  most  central  and  convenient  starting-point  to  the  County  Donegal, 


^nHtO 


LOSSIEMOUTH. 


STOTFIELD  HOTEL,  Lossiemouth. 

^,om.:.av..n      MORAYSHIRE. 

A  PERFECT    GOLFERS'   RETREAT. 
BEAUTIFUL    SEASIDE    LINKS    OF    18    HOLES. 

SIXTY    BEDROOMS. 
Tariff  on  application  from  WILLIAM  CHRISTIE,  Proprietor. 


LOUGH  SWILLY. 


LOUGH  SWILLY 
HOTEL, 

BUNORANA, 

CODHTY  DONEGAL. 


.-..-:^.^^.^f.:^-^^^^^r^ 

-^1 

'^.:M 

-¥'^^-- 

Hi 

-  «i».  .1- — —__■»..       ^^ 

r 

■■  ■,  i 

ONE  of  the  FINEST  HOTELS  in  the  NORTH  OF  IRELAND,  with  accommodation 
for  100  GUESTS,  situated  on  a  promontory  overlooking  LOUGH  SWILLY  (The 
Lake  of  Shadows).  Connected  with  the  HOTEL  by  covered  way  are  HOT  and  COLD 
SALT-WATER,  NEEDLE,  DOUCHE,  and  BROMO-IODINE  BATHS.  The  latter  have 
been  found  very  beneficial  in  the  treatment  of  Rheumatic  Affections. 

GOLF  LINKS  CLOSE  TO  THE  HOTEL,  FREE  TO  VISITORS. 

Salmon  Fishing  in  the  Cranagh  River  close  to  Hotel;  Tickets  to  be  had 

from  Manager.        SEA  FISHING. 

SCENERY  UNSURPASSED  IN  IRELAND. 

THIRTY-FIVE    MINUTES'    BAIL    FROM:    LONDONDERRy. 

For  Terms,  etc.,  apply  to  A.  J.  GARDNER,  Manager. 


LOWESTOFr LUIB LYNMOUTH LYNTON.  57 

LOWESTOFT. 

^"^^'A.  G.  &  A.  NOTLEY,   ^^^ 

HOUSE  AGENTS,  AUCTIONEERS,  AND  ESTATE  AGENTS, 

ROYAL  THOROUGHFARE,  LOWESTOFT. 
A  large  number  of  Furnished  Houses  to  be  let  for  the  Season. 

Telegraphic  Address— '''NoThBY,  Lowestoft."  Telephone  No.  24. 

LUIB    HOTEL 

(LOCH    TAY), 

GLEN     DOCHART,     PERTHSHIRE. 

■DEAUTIFUIiLY  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  River  Dochart,  surroiiiidi'd  by  wild,  pic- 
J-*  turesque,  and  romantic  scenery,  six  miles  from  the  head  of  Loch  Tay,  one  mile  from 
Luib  Station  on  the  Callander  and  Oban  Railway.  Visitors  staying  at  this  Hotel  have 
the  privilei^e  of  B'ishiiig,  Free  of  Charge,  on  five  miles  of  one  of  the  best  Salmon  rivers 
in  the  West  of  Scotland,  and  excellent  Tront  fishing  on  the  River,  Loch  Dochart,  and 
Loch  Nubhair.  Boats  Free.  Golf  Course.  Every  home  comfort,  coTnbined  with 
Moderate  Charges.     Parties  Boarded.     Posting  in  all  branches.     Post  and  Telegraph. 


I^nib  Station.  Projyi-ietor,  DONALD  M'NAUGHTON. 


LYNMOUTH,  NORTH  DEVON. 

THE  LYNDALE  HOTEL. 

ENGLISH  SWITZERLAND. 

Fii-st-Cliiss  for  Families  and  Tourists.  Facing  the 
Bristol  Chauiiel.  two  luinutee'  walk  from  the  Bench, 
and  overlooking  the  River  Lynn.  Fitted  with 
Electric  Light  and  modem  improveineuts.  Good 
Smoking  and  New  Billiard  Rooms.  Shooting, 
Salmon  and  Trout  Fishing  Free.  All  charges 
strictly  moderate.     Write  for  Tariff. 

Taegramt—"  Ltki>ai.s,  Lykmouth." 

Mrs.  TOM  BEVAN,  Proyrietreu. 


LYNTON,  NORTH  DEVON. 

THE  ROYAL  CASTLE  FAMILY  HOTEL 

Patronvted  hy  H.R.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  other  Members  of  the  Royal  Family. 

THIS  Hotel,  staading  in  its  own  grounds  of  12  acres,  commands  uninterrupted 
views  of  the  Valleys  of  the  East  and  West  Lynn,  the  Welsh  Coast,  and  the 
far-famed  Valley  of  Rocks.  Elegant  Suites  of  Private  Apartments.  Table  d'Hdte, 
Coffee  Room,  and  Ladies'  Drawing- Room,— to  which  have  been  added,  New  and  CommO' 
dious  Smahing  and  Billiard  Rooms,  all  facing  the  sea. 

Excellent  Cuisine.        Moderate  Charges.        Electric  Liehtino:. 
GOLF.  FISHING. 

Post  Horses.     First-class  Stabling. 

Coaches  in  the  Season  to  Ilfra^ombe  and  Minehead,. 
TARIFF   ON   APPLICATION.  THOMAS  BAKER,  Proprietor. 


58 


LYNTOlJ MALVERN. 


THE 


LYNTON,  NOETH  DEVON. 

VALLEY    OF    ROCKS    HOTEL. 

Largest  and  Principal  Hotel  in  the  District. 
Fitted  with  Electric  Light  throughout.     Elegant  Lounge  Hall. 

Daily  Telegraph.—'^  The  position  of  the  Valley  of  Rocks  Hotel  is  absolutely  un- 
equallttd  and  unparalleled  in  the  South  of  England." 

Punch.—"  Nature — represented  by  Ragged  Jack,  the  Devil's  Cheese  Wring,  and  Waters 
Meet— is  lovely  beyond  compare,  and  art  could  have  no  better  illustration  than  that 
furnished  by  the  unsurpassed  resources  of  the  Valley  of  Rocks  Hotel." 

MODERATE  TARIFF.  J.  W.  HOLMAN,  Resident  Owner. 

Telegraphic  Address— HOLMAN,  LYNTON.  TERMS  EN  PENSION. 

LYNTON,  NORTH  DEVON. 

COTTAGE    HOTEL. 

iJ\TE  FAMILY  RESIDENCE  OF  SIR  C.  SMITH. 

THE  sheltered  and  sunny  position  of  this 
Hotel,  which  is  uniquely  situated  in 
its  own  beautifully  wooded  and  extensive 
grounds,  500  feet  above  the  Sea,  commands 
one  of  the  finest  Ijand  and  Marine  Views 
in  Devonshire.  New  Smoking  and  Billiard 
Rooms.     Fishing,  Hunting,  Golf. 

EDWARD  E.  HOLE, 
Proprietor. 
Telesrrams— COTTAGE,  LYNTON. 

MALVERN. 

HARDWIGKE  PRIVATE  HOTEL 

ENJOYS  the  highest  reputation  for  its  cuisine,  comforts,  and  general 
arrangements.  It  is  heated  throughout  with  hot-water  pipes, 
thereby  making  it  a  most  desirable  Winter  Residenee.  Nearest  Hotel  to 
Golf  Links. 

BILLIARD    AND    SMOKE    ROOMS. 

Under  the  immediate  swpervision  of 

J.  WILSON,  Proprietor. 

MALVERN. 

THE  ABBEY  HOTEL. 

^'JN   EXCELLENT  SITUATION. 

U  MOST  COMFORTABLE   FAMILY   HOTEL. 

Coffee  Eoom,  Drawing,  Billiard,  and  Reading  Rooms. 
Inclusive  terms  during  Winter  months. 
Perfect  Sanitary  Arratigements. 

Miss  SCHNEIDER,  Manageress. 


MALVERN MARGATE  59 

MALVERN. 

THE  FOLEY  ARMS  HOTEL 

(PATRONISED  BY  THE  ROYAL  FAMILY). 
"  rriHE  first  time  we  visited  Malvern,  when  shown  into  an  upper 
jL  chamber  in  the  'Foley  Arms,'  we  were  literally  taken  aback. 
We  can  hardly  say  more  than  that  the  prospect  struck  us  as  far  finer  than 
from  the  terrace  over  the  Thames  at  Richmond,  etc.,  etc." — Extract  from 
article  in  '^Blackwood,'*  August  188 j^. 

Coffee  Room  and  Drawing  Room  for  Ladies  and  Gentlemen. 
Perfect  Sanitary  Arrangements.  Miss  YOUNGER,  Proprietress. 

GREAT  MALVERN. 

PORTLAND  PRIVATE  HOTEL 

DELIGHTFULLY  and  centrally  situated.  South  aspect. 
Magnificent  scenery.  Reading,  Drawing,  Dining,  Billiard, 
and  Smoke  Rooms.  Near  Golf  Links.  Brine  Baths,  etc.  Prospectus 
containing  splendid  views  of  this  lovely  health  resort,  and  copy  of 
testimonials,  on  application.  jy   WOODMAN,  Proprietor. 

GREAT  MALVERN. 

MALVERN    HOUSE 


HI 


PRIVATE    HOTEL. 

Specially  adapted  for 

WINTER    AND    SUMMER    RESIDENCE. 


GOOD  TENNIS  AND  CROQUET  LAWNS. 

BIIiLIAHD  AKD  SMOKE  BOOMS. 

Mrs.  MATTHEWS,  Proprietress.  Miss  DEB,  Matiageress. 

MARGATE. 

WHITE   HABT   HOTEL. 

Established  150  years. 

FACING  sea.  Sixty  Bedrooms.  Magnificent  new  Coffee  Room  and 
Lounge,  just  completed,  with  every  Comfort.  Private  Sitting  Rooms 
all  face  tlie  sea.  Table  d'H6te,  7  p.m.  Separate  tables.  Famed  for  its 
perfect  English  cooking  and  choice  wines.  Short  distance  from  Golf 
Links.  Bicycle  lock-up.  Stabling  for  Motors.  Billiards.  Special  Terms 
during  winter  months  and  prolonged  stay.  City  express,  5.10  ;  Holborn 
Viaduct,  1  hour  30  minutes  all  year  round.  W.  J.  MILLS. 

Telegraphic  Address—"  WHITE  HART."  Telepfwne  No.  44. 


60 


MARGATE MATLOCK. 


MARGATE. 

QUEEN'S  &  HIGH  CLIFFE  HOTELS,  MARGATE. 

OLIFTONVILLE. 

Manager— A  L:^0N   ADUTT. 

TELEGRAMS 

'Ozone,  Margate." 

National  Telephone 

60  MARGATE. 


UNIOl'K  Hotels  in  e\ery  detail.  I'atroiiiseil  hy  the  leailiiij,'^  English  and  Continental  Families 
Finest  Situation.  Private  Grounds.  Tennis  Courts.  Cuisine  a  special  feature.  Choicest  Vintage 
Wines  and  Spirits.  Appointments  of  the  highest  class.  Handsome  Lounge.  F'inest  Billiard  Room  in 
Thanet  (2  Tables).  Every  modern  comfort.  Favourite  Hotels  for  Golfers.  Special  facilities  offered. 
Inclusive  Pension  or  a  la  carte  Terms.     Illustrated  and  Moderate  Tariff  on  application. 


MATLOCK  BATH,  DERBYSHIRE.         : ; 

THE  ROYAL  HOTEL 

WITH  Hydropathic  Baths  of  every  kind  and  Bath  Attendants,  for  use 
'      of  visitors.     A  palatial  building  beautifully  situated  within  its  own 
private  grounds,  commanding  one  of  the  most  beautiful  views  in  Derby- 
shire, 

Billiards.  Lawn  Tennis.  Golfing. 

Six  Miles  of  Fishing.  A  Large  Swimming  Bath. 

'Bus  meets  each  Train.        Medical  Man  attends  Daily. 
TERMS  EXCEEDINGLY  MODERATE. 


H<'  TELEPHONE  No.  19. 

Places  of  Interest  within  easy  reach  by  Rail  or  Coach — Buxton, 
Chatsworth,  Haddon  Hall,  GasUeton,  Dovedale,  Wingfield  Manor, 
Hardwick  Hall.  !  HA  tl  '^'ii  H  i 


MATLOCK MERTHYR    TYDFIL MULLION  ^1 

MATLOCK  BRIDGE. 

ROGKSIDE  HYDROPATHIC. 

FIRST-CLASS  HEALTH  AND  PLEASURE  RESORT. 

800  Feet  above  Sea  Level.  Pure  Mountain  Air. 

DRY,  BRACING,  HEALTH-GIYING. 

As  a  Residence  for  Visitors  and  Patients,  Winter  or  Summer,  it  is  unrivalled. 
Commands  magnificent  views  for  many  miles  of  Hill  and  Dale,  Wood  and  Water. 

Extensive  Grounds  finely  situated.  Tennis,  Bowls,  Croquet,  Billiards,  Bagatelle, 
etc    Excellent  Recreation  Room  specially  floored  for  Dancing.    Good  Fishing. 

Hydropathic  Treatment  under  Medical  Direction.  > 

HIGH-CLASS  CUISINE.    TABLE  D'HOTE,  6.30  p.m. 

Nat.  Telephone,  No.  12.  Telegrams— "  Rockside,  Matlockbank." 

CABLE  TRAM  FROM  STATION  TO  FRONT  GATE. 

Terms  £2  :  2s.  to  £3  :  3s.  per  week. 

Write  for  Descripti/ve  Prospectus  to 

MISS  GOODWIN,  Manageress. 

MERTHYR  TYDFIL. 

BENTLEY'S  CENTRAL  HOTEL, 

Family  and  Commercial. 
FIRST-CIiASS   MODERN   &   UP-TO-DATE. 

itW        CHARGES  STRICTLY  MODERATE.         "^ 

One  minute  from  joint  and  only  Railway  Station. 

Hotel  Porter  attends  arrival  of  all  Trains. 

THOMAS  BENTLEY,  Propridor. 

MULLION,  CORNWALL. 

MULLION   COVE    HOTEL. 

Situation  unsurpassed. 

TjlIRST- CLASS   HOTEL  with  magnificent  Sea  Views.     Close  to  Sea. 
-■-      Fine  Bathing,  Boating,  and  Fishing.    Excellent  Golf  Links.    Electric 
Light  throughout.     Billiards.     Helston  Station  G.W.R. 
Tariff  on  application  to  Manager, 

MXJLLION, 

CuBY  Cross  Lanes,  R.S.Q, 


NAIRN NETHYBRIDGE — NEWCASTLE. 


NAIRN. 

,  WAYERLEY  HOTEL. 

TEMPERANCE. 

First-Class  Family  and  Commercial. 

Nearest  in  town  to  Station  and  Post-Office,  and  within  a  few  minutes 

walk  of  Golf-course  and  Sea-beach. 

Special  Week-Bnd  Rates.  Charges  Strictly  Moderate. 

HUGH  MACKAY,  Proprietor. 

NETHYBRIDGE-ON-SPEY. 

NETHYBRIDGE    HOTEL, 

NETHYBRIDGE-ON-SPEY, 

>^        ^  STRATHSPEY,  N.B. 

W^  New  First-Class  Family  Hotel, 

situated  at  the  base  of  the  Cainigonii 
Mountains  amongst  the  famous  Pine 
Woods  of  Strathspey,  700  feet  above 
soa-leve],  replete  with  every  comfort. 

Dry  Bracing  Climate. 

Acknowledged  most  valuable 

Health  Resort. 

MODERATE  CHARGES 

(Special    Boarding    Terms 

for  Families). 

POSTING  ESTABLISHMENT. 
TROUT  FISHING  FREE. 
Golf,  Tennis,  and  Croquet.  Charming  Drives  and  Walks. 

Under  the  personal  mcinagemcnt  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mackenzie. 

A.  G.  MACKENZIE,  Proprietor. 

NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE. 

THE  TYNE  TEMPERANCE 


HOTEL, 


HOOD    STREET,    NEAR    TO    MONUMENT. 

'■PHIS    Hotel    having  recently  undergone  extensive  alterations,   patrons  will    find 
every  comfort   combined  with    Moderate    Charges.     Stock    Booms.      National 
Telephone,  No,  2144, 


NEWQUAY MELFORT  (NEAR  OBAN).  63 

NEWQUAY. 

WATERGATE  BAY  HOTEL. 


11 
II 


Tdegrams  and  Postal  J  fWrcs.'?— Watergate  Bay  Hotel,  St.  Columb  Minor,  R.S.O. 

THIS  First-Class  Family  Hotel,  facing  the  Atlantic  (south  aspect),  is 
situated  in  a  splendid  and  sheltered  position  in  the  midst  of  the 
finest  cliff  scenery  in  Cornwall,  contiguous  to  the  famous  Tregurrian 
Beach  (two  miles  of  sands),  and  within  walking  distance  of  the 
lovely  Vale  of  Lanherne,  Mawgan,  Carnanton  Woods,  the  celebrated 
Bedruthan  Steps,  and  Newquay.  Riviera  climate,  mild  but  bracing. 
Terms  moderate.  Inclusive  charges  if  desired.  Billiard  Room.  Good 
stabling.  Trains  met  at  Newquay  Station  by  arrangement.  Further 
particulars  and  tariff  on  application  to  the  Manageress. 

"CUILFAIL    hToTELT 

KILMELFORD,    PASS    OF    MELFORT,    NEAR    OBAN. 

Take  yer  rods  an'  yer  reels, 
Throw  the  doctor  his  peels, 
And  come  doun  to  Cuilfail 

Wi'  yer  friens  leal  and  Irne. 

First- Class  Trout  Fishing  Free  on  several  Lochs.     Excellent  Sea  Trout  and 

Salmon  Loch  added.     Season — 1st  April  io  SOth  Septewher. 
Magnificent  Highland  Scenery.  Healthy  Locality. 

Stream  Fishing.  Superior  Sea-Fishing  and  Sea-Bathing 

within  10  minutes  walk. 
Boats  and  Boatmen  for  Anglers. 

rPHE  lochs  are  annually  stocked  with  the  Loch  Leven,  Fontinalis,  or  Great  American 
-*-     Brook  Trout,  also  Rainbow  and  Sea  Tront,  which  have  proved  a  great  success. 

Billiard  Room.  Cycle  House.  Dark  Room.  Tennis  Court.  All  Conveniences. 
Sanitation  Perfect.  Families  boarded  by  Week  or  Month.  No  accommodation  for 
Servants.  Previous  notice  desirable.  Luncheons  and  Teas  ready  on  arrival  of  Coaches 
to  and  from  Oban,  Ford,  and  Loch  Awe.     Postal  delivery  daily. 

Route. — Per  S.S.  " Colnmha"  from  Glasgow,  Greenock,  and  Gourock  to  Ardrishaig, 
ddUy ;  thence  Mail  Coach  or  hire.  Finlay's  estoblixhmevt,  Ardrishaig,  24  miles;  or  by 
Caledonian  liaibmyto  Oban;  thence  MacGregor's  Mail  Coach  daily,  or  hire  MacGregor's 
estahli.shinei)f,  16  niileif. 

JOHN  MACFADYEN,  Cuilfail  Hotel,  by  Lochgilphead  or  Oban, 
Telegraphic  Address:  Macfadyen,  Cuilfail,  Kilmelford. 
Telejfraph  Office,  20  yards  from  Hotel. 


When  tired  an'  fourfouchen' 
When  hoastin'  and  coughin', 
Wlien  ill  wi'  the  bile 

Or  the  wee  deevils  blue- 


64  OBAN. 

""  ^ "      GREAT  WESTERN 

HOTEL. 

(UNDER  NEW  MANAGEMENT.) 

Delightfully  situated  on  the  Esplan- 
ade, attording  unrivalled  views  of  Bay 
and  Surroundings.  Redecorated  and 
refurnished  throughout.  Luxurious 
Smoking  Lounge  overlooking  Bay. 
Electric  Light.  Elevator.  Bus  attends 
all  Trains  and  Steamers  and  conveys  Visitors  free.  ALEX.  M'GREGOR. 

OBAN. 

MARINE     HOTEL. 

ON  THE  ESPLANADE,  OVERLOOKING  THE  BAY. 

THE  LARGEST  AND  LEADING  TEMPERANCE  HOUSE. 

100  Rooms.         Cook's  Coupons  Accepted.       Late  Dinner. 
CHARGES   MODERATE. 

DUNCAN  M'INTYRE,  Proprietor. 


OBAN. 

MACPHERSON'S 

TEMPERANCE   HOTEL 

STAFFORD  STREET,   OBAN. 

CHARGES  STRICTLY  MODERATE,  AND  EVERY  HOME  COMFORT. 
The  Boots  waits  the  Arrival  of  all  Trains  and  Steamers. 


BLACK'S 
TOURIST'S   AND   CYCLIST'S   MAP 

OF  OBAN  DISTRICT 

LOCH  RANNOCH  TO  STRATHAVON,  CRIEFF  TO  LOCH  CRINAN 

Scale  4  miles  to  an  inch. 

Neatly  folded  in  glazed  cover  for  the  pocket,  Price  6d.,  or 
mounted  on  linen,  in  cloth  case,  Price  Is. 

A.  &  C,  BLACK,  SOHO  SQUARE,  LONDON,      '^V 


OBAN  {see  also  p.  66) — oulton  broad.  65 

OBAN. 
When  you  are  in  the  Highlands  visit 

MACLAGHLAN'S, 

THE  ROYAL  CLAN  TARTAN  WAREHOUSE. 

Woollen  Tartan  Manufacturer  to  the  King  and  Royal  Family, 

and  the  Royal  and  Imperial  Courts  of  Europe. 

Genuine  handmade  Scotch  goods  from  the  Shetland  and  Faroe  Isles. 

Beautiful  Tweeds  and  Homespuns,  and  all  the  Clan  and  Family  Tartans 

(manufactured  from  the  Highland  wool  grown  on  his  own  lands  of  Aros, 

Mull,  around  the  historic  Aros  Castle). 

LADIES'  TAILORING.  SPORTSMEN'S  TAILORING. 

KILT-MAKING  A  SPECIALITY. 
Madachlan's  Scotch  Travelling  Bugs,  as  manufactured  for  and  supplied  to 
H.R.H.  THE  PRINCESS  OF  WALEW. 
H.R.H.  PRINCESS  CHARLES  OF  DENMARK, 
H.R.H.  PRINCESS  CHRISTIAN  OF  SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN, 
H.R.H.  THE  DUCHESS  OF  ARGYLL, 
H.R.H.  PRINCE  HENRY  OF  PRUSSIA. 
''Your  charxningr  Scotch  Travelling  ^ix^."— Extract  from  a  letter  of  the 
Duchess  nf  Cornwall  and  York. 

Outside  Warehouse  designed  Tartan  and  Tartan  ensign. 
MAOLAOH LAN'S,  Oban. 

OBAN. 

VICTORIA    HOTEL. 

FIBST-  CLASS— TEMPERANCE. 

TN  close  proximity  to  Railway  Station,  Landing  Pier,  and  Post  Office,  overlooking 
^  the  Bay.  Fishing,  Boating,  Golf,  Bowling.  Special  Feature,  Low  Charges.— Bed- 
rooms,  Is.  6d.  and  28.  Teas  and  Breakfasts,  Is.  6d.  and  2s.  Dinners,  Tai)le  d'Hote  and  d 
la  carte,  2s.  9d.    Baths— Hot  and  Cold. 

Registered  Telegraphic  Address  :   "McLACHLAN,  Oban." 


Tel.  019.  OULTON  BROAD,  NEAR  LOWESTOFT. 

IffHERRY   HOTEL 

J^NTIRELY  rebuilt,  facing  the  Broad,  and   replete  with   every 

accommodation    for  Visitors.       Private    and    Public    Dining 

Rooms.     Terms  on  application  to — 

T.  HORNE,  Late  of  Great  Eastern  Hotel,  Lowestoft. 

Headquarters  of  the  Waverley  Sailing  Club.    Also  Headquarters  of  tlie 
O.  B.  Cycle  Club. 

SAILING  AND  ROWING  BOATS  ON  HIRE.  BOWLING  GREEN. 

5 


66      OBAN    (OULTON    BROAD,  See  p.   65),  OXFORD,  PENMAENMAWR. 


s 


OBAN 

TATION    HOTEL 

The  Hotel  is  nearest  to  the  Pier  and  Railway 
Station,  and  occupies  the  best  site. 

It  contains  over  100  Rooms,  and  is  sumptuously  furnished. 
High- Class  Cuisine  and  Wines. 


J.  G.  FLEISCHMANX,  Mami/er. 


C.  C;4.MPBt:LL,  Proprietor. 


OXFORD. 


tA  -w-ioj^i 


•ntf(.-,r,  .Urrf^ 


THE  MITRE  HOTEL, 

aiTUATED  in  the  centre  of  the  finest  Street  in 
^  Europe,  is  one  of  the  most  ECONOMICAL 
First -Class  Hotels  in  the  Kingdonl."' 'Billiard 
Rooms,  Electric  Light,  and  Good  Stabling. 


PENMAENMAWB,,   NOBTH  WALES. 

THE   PENMAENMAWR  HOTEL. 

THIS  high-class  Hotel  is  beautifully  situated  in  its  own  grounds,  overlooking  the  Sea,  quite  sheltered 
from  easterly  winds  ;  charming  marine  and  mountain  walks,  healthful  and  recuperating.    A  good 
centre  for  North  Wales  Excursions. 

The  Hotel  is  close  to  the  Railway  Station,  and  within  a  few  minutes'  walk  of  the  seashore.  It  is 
fitted  up  regardless  of  expense,  and  with  the  recent  extensive  alterations  is  now  the  largest  Hotel  in 
North  Wales.  Hot  and  Cold  Sea  Water  Baths,  Billiard  Room,  etc.  Carriages  and  luggage  carts  from 
Hotel  Livery  Stables  meet  principal  Trains.     30  minutes'  drive  to  Golf  Links.        Tariff  on  application. 


perth — pitlochry.  67 

The  Only  Hotel  in  Perth  wholly  lighted  by  Electricity. 


SALUTATION   HOTEL, 

PERTH. 

Commercial,  Family,  &  Tourist  Headquarters,  etc. 

New  &  Spacious  Stoclcrooms.  Billiards. 

W.  G.  MO  WAT,  Proprietor. 

(Late  of  Central  Hotel,  Glasgow. ) 
Established  1699.  Telephone,  No.  120. 

PERTH. 

PERTH  STATION  HOTEL 

'"PHE  above  Hotel  is  under  the  control  of  the  Caletlonian,  Highland,  and  North  British 
-*-  Railway  Companies,  and  will  be  found  by  Visitors  to  be  a  first-class  Hotel,  replete 
with  all  modern  improvements.  The  Hotel  contains  handsome  Coflee,  Drawing,  Reading, 
Smoking,  and  Billiard  Rooms,  also  Suites  of  Apartments.  All  lighted  by  Electricity. 
The  well-appointed  REFRESHMENT  ROOMS,  situated  on  the  Station  Platform, 
are  under  the  same  control,  where  are  served  daily  Breakfasts,  Luncheons,  and  Dinners, 
in  connection  with  the  Train  Service  from  and  to  London. 


iMHiliJ 


n  /. 


ALFRED  TUKE,  Manager. 


PITLOCHRY.  t 

MAGDONALD'S,  ATHOLL, 

Is  the  ORIGINAL  and  very  much  the  Largest 
HYDROPATHIC  in  the  District. 

"REAUTIFULLY  SITUATED  on  a  knoll,  high  above  the  valley  and 
village,  surrounded   by  36   acres  of  ORNAMENTAL  GROUNDS, 
well  wooded,  and  containing  5  miles  of  private  walks  and  drives.     500 
feet  above  sea-level.     Pure  dry  bracing  air. 

Passenger  Elevator.         Cuisine  a  Speciality. 

Every  loindoio  commatids  a  view  of  the  most  magnificent  scenery  in  Scotland. 
Tennis,  Croquet,  Golf,  Archery,  Fishing,  Cycling. 

Inclusive  Terms  for  May  and  June,  firom  £2 :  16s.  to  £3 ;  6s.  each  per  Week. 

To  prevtnt  disappointinent  communications  should  he  carefully  addressed  to 

The  ATHOLL  HYDROPATHIC,   Pitlochry. 

Telegraphic  Address— "  ATHOLL,"  Pitlochry. 


PITLOCHRY. 


PITLOCHRY. 

FISHER'S    HOTEL. 


FIRST-CLASS  FAMILY  HOTEL  AND  POSTING  ESTABLISHMENT. 

PARTIES  wishing  to  see  the  magnificent  scenery  in  this  part  of  the 
Scottish  Highlands  will  find  this  Hotel  (to  which  large  additions 
have  been  made)  most  convenient,  for  in  one  drive  they  can  visit  the 
Falls  of  Tummel ;  the  Queen's  View  of  Loch  Tummel ;  the  fax-famed 
Pass  of  Eilliecrankie  ;  Glen  Tilt ;  the  Falls  of  Bruar,  etc. 

Pitlochry  is  on  the  direct  route  to  Balmoral  Castle,  by  Spital  of  Glen- 
shee  and  Braemar  ;  and  to  Kinloch-Rannoch,  by  Tummel  Bridge  and 
Braemar. 

Good  Salmon  and  Trout  Fishing  on  4  miles  of  the  River  Tay  and  2 
miles  of  the  Tummel. 

EXCURSION  COACHES  leave  the  Hotel  daily  during  the  summer 
season  for  Pass  of  Killiecrankie,  Falls  of  Bruar,  Queen's  View  of  Loch 
Tummel,  Kinloch-Rannoch,  Glen  Tilt,  etc.,  and  to  Rannoch  Station, 
West  Highland  Railway,  by  Loch  Tummel  and  Loch  Rannoch.  Seats 
secured  at  the  Hotel.  Fares  moderate.  A  Four-in-haiid  Coach  leaves 
Pitlochry  for  Braemar  every  alternate  day. 

Job  and  Post  Horses  and  Carriages  of  every  kind,  by  the  Day,  Week, 
or  Month. 

Orders  by  Telegraph  for  Rooms,  Carriages,  or  Coach  Scats,  punctually 
attended  to.     Address  Manageress. 


PITLOCHRY PLYMOUTH. 


69 


THE  PITLOCHRY  HYDROPATHIC. 

Highlands  of  Perthshire.     The  Largest,  Finest,  and  Leading  Hydropathic. 

FINEST   BRACING   MOUNTAIN   AIR  in  SCOTLAND 

Says  late  Sir  ANDREW  CLARK,  M.D. 

TN  the  Hydro  high  extensive  ornamental  Grounds,  being  the  highest  house,  and  has  by  /ar  the  most 
commanding  view  of  the  grand  and  unsurpassed  scenery  all  round,  it  is  due  South  and  in  front  of 
the  Mountain  Ben-y-Vrackie,  which  is  2Y50  feet  high.  Coaching,  Tennis,  etc.  Every  comfort  for 
Families  and  Tourists  making  a  stay.  Baths — Turkish,  etc.  Ten  minutes  from  Railway  and  Churches. 
Inclusive  Terms,  with  large  superior  Booms,  from  £2  :  168.  each,  or  98.  per  day.  Stabling  for  Horses  and 
Carriages.     Cycle  accommodation. 

Send  for  Prospectus. 


Note  Address— ROBERTSON'S,  Pitlochry  Hydropathic,  Pitlochry. 


Wt' 


PITLOCHRY,  N.B. 

&  J.  MACNAUQHTON, 

Wool  len    Man  ufact u  rers. 

ESTABLISHED    IN  THE    REIGN    OF    WILLIAM    lY. 

"Balmoral." 
"The  Queen  is  very  much  pleased  with 
the  rugs." 

"Osborne." 
' '  Please  send  to  Osborne,  for  Her  Majesty's 
approval,  a  number  of  Rugs,  Wraps,  and 
Shawls,  such  as  you  sent  to  Balmoral." 

"Osborne." 
"  Her  Majesty  has  kept  Fourteen  Rugs. 
You  .sent  a  nice  selection." 


INTERNATIONAL  AWARDS. 


THE   SILVER    MEDAL,    PARIS   1900. 

HIGHEST   AWARD,   CHICAGO   1893. 

TH E    ONLY   GOLD    MEDAL, 

EDI  NBURGhTlsgO. 

PRIZE    MEDAL,    EDINBURGH    1886. 


V^isiTORS  to  Scotland,  and  especially  to  the  Highlands,  will  find  it  to  their  advantage  to 
defer  placing  ordprs  for  Scotch  Woollens  until  they  have  reached  Pitlochry,  which 
is  famed  for  the  choicest  manufactures.  All  are  invited  and  recommended  to  write  U>i' 
Patterns  whicli  are  promptly  sent,  Post  Free. 

Ladies'  Tailor-Made  Gowns,  70b.       Ladies'  Athole  Capes,  from  2l8. 

Gentlemen's  Tweed  Suits,  708.        Refined  Styles.        Perfection  of  Finish. 

Accurate  Fitting  by  Distinguished  City  Cutters.        Travelling  Rugs  from  128.  6d. 

PLAIDS,  SHAWLS,  WRAPS,  AND  SCOTCH  HOSIERY. 
Parcels  Carriage  Paid. 

PLYMOUTH.  , 

DUKE    OF    CORNWALL    HOTEL. 

SPACIOUS   COFFEE   AND    DRAWING    ROOMS. 

HOT  AND  COLD  BATHS.      BILLIARD  AND  SMOKING  ROOMS. 

OTIS  PASSENGER  &  LUGGAGE  LIFTS.       TELEPHONE  135. 

Recently  redecorated,  latest  sanitary  improvements.    Electric  Li^ht. 

TahU  d'Hote  daily. 
N.B.— This  Hotel  is  the  most  commodious  and  convenient  in  Plymouth.     It  is 
distant  only  five  minutes'  walk  from  the  SEA,  and  from  the  business  centre  of  the 
Town.     Opposite  the  G.W.R.  Station,  Millbay. 

-  .      Telegraphic  Address—"  DUKOTEL,  PLYMOUTH." 


7  0  PLYMOUTH PORTHC  AWL PORTS  ALON PRINCETOWN. 

PLYMOUTH.  ** 

THE   GRAND  HOTEL. 

^HE   FINEST   POSITION  IN  EUROPE.     Climate  equally  Good  foi 
Winter  or  Summer.     Suites  of  Rooms.     Three  Balconies.     Revise! 
Tariff. 

Table  d'Hdte  6.30  to  8  o'clock.  Telephone  No.  148. 

Passengers'  Lift.  Lighted  by  Electricity.  Buses  meet  Trains. 

Also  ROYAL  CLARENCE  HOTEL,  EXETER. 

J.  HEADON  STANBURY,  Propriet&r. 

porthoawl,  south  wales. 

ESPIiANADE    HOTEL. 

100  Boomg.  Electric  Light.  Pirst-class  Chel 
Table  d'Hdte  at  Separate  tables.  Splendid  GroV 
Links  along  coaet ;  turf  firm  and  dry  in  winter. 

Porthoawl  is  open  to  the  Atlantic.  Mear 
temperature  same  as  Bonmemouth,  but  climat* 
peculiarly  invigorating.  Moat  favourable  for  in 
valids  and  children,  and  especially  suitable  for  con 
sumptive  patients  in  winter  and  summer.  Drj 
sandy  soil  on  limestone.  Safe  bathing.  Sea  fishing 
Boating.  Good  drainage  and  first-rate  watei 
supply,  certified  by  Sir  B.  Frankland,  Analyst  t< 
the  Local  Government  Board,  as  being  oi  "  higl 
organic  purity  and  excellent  for  dietetic  jrur pate's.' 
Inclusive  terms  from  lOs.  6d.  per  day.  13-roomet 
houses  in  beautiful  situation  on  Esplanade  to  b( 
let,  unfurnished,  on  moderate  terms. 


LOUGH  SWILLY,  CO.  DONEGAL. 

PORTSALON  HOTEL. 

fpHIS  excellent  Hotel,  which  affords  first-class  accommodation  and  every  comfort  t( 
-*-  Families,  Golfers,  and  other  Tourists,  js  magnificently  situated,  with  son  then 
aspect,  and  commands  sea  and  mountain  views  of  matchless  beauty.  The  Golf  Links 
(18  holes)  are  the  most  sporting  and  picturesque  in  the  country.  Good  lake  and  sef 
fishing.  Boating,  Bathing,  Tennis,  Croquet,  Billiards,  Cycle  Store,  Dark  Roon 
for  Photography,  etc.  Route  via  Londonderry  and  Rathmullen  ;  thence  by  Coach  daih 
on  arrival  of  mid-day  Steamer.     Telegrams— "Hotel,  Portsalon." 

For  paxticulars  apply  MANAGER. 
PRINCETOWN,  DARTMOOR. 

DUCHY    HOTEL 

(Jn  the  very  Centre  of  Dartmoor.) 

This  First-Class  Hotel  is  one  of  the  highest  situated  Hotels  in  the  Country,  being 
about  1400  feet  above  sea-level.    Excellent  Trout  and  Salmon  Fishing. 


DUCHY  HOUSE  PRIVATE  HOTEL  AND  BOARDING  HOUSE 

(Annexe),  contains  the  most  modern  improvements.     Good  Posting.     Excellent  Dairy 
Tekgvim^"  Duoht,  P»iNOErrowN.'  AARON  ROWE,  Proprietor. 


RIPON ROSS ROTH  E8  AY.  7 1 

RIPON,  FOUNTAINS  ABBEY. 

UNICORN  HOTEL  AND  POSTING  HOUSE. 

Patronised  by  H.R.H.  the  PRINCE  of  WALES. 

THE    largest,    best    appointed,    and    most    liberally    managed 
Hotel  in  the  City.     Carriages  of  every  description.     Wines 
and  Spirits. 

Telegrams:  UNICORN,  RIPON.  Telephone:  No. 4. 

MRS.  BERNARD  EVANS,  Proprietress. 

ROSS  ON  WYE. 

''THE    RHINE   OF    ENGLAND." 

Ross,  Herefordshire,  is  the  gate  of  the  "Wye  "  (The  Rhine  of  England) 
and  the 

ROYAL    HOTEL, 

situated  in  its  own  beautiful  grounds,  commands  extensive  views  of  the 
"  Wye  "  and  its  enchanting  scenery. 

Every  Comfort.       Moderate  Charges. 

ROTHESAY. 

BUTE    ARMS    HOTEL. 

Opposite  the  Pier. 
FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL       MODERATE  TARIFF.      EXCELLENT  CUISINE. 

The  Sanitary  Arrangements  are  entirely  new  throughout  the  House. 

Table  d'Hdte,  6.30.  Billiard  Boom. 

Telephone  No,  31.  ROBERT  SMITH,  Proprietor. 

ROTHESAY. 

QUEEN'S  ^sm  HOTEL 

A    FIRST-CLASS    FAMILY    HOTEL. 

ENTIRELY  REFURNISHED  AND  REDECORATED. 

ABJOINTNG  ROYAL  NORTTIERX  YACHT  CLUB. 
.»^uv\-     MODERATE    CHARGES.        leboM 
^  Miss  THOMPSON,  Proprietress. 


72  ROTHESAY ROYBRIDQE ST.  ANDREWS. 


101^.  "*:'.'. 


ROTHESAY. 


^^HOOIMU 


ROYAL 

HOTEL. 


UNDER  NEW  MANAGEMENT, 

FIRST-CLASS.     OPPOSITE  THE  PIER. 
MODERATE    TARIFItt^ct   ' 

Telegrams — "  Royal  Hotel." 

JOHN  MACKAY,  Proprietor. 


ROYBRIDGE. 

ROYBRIDGE  HOTEL,  N.B. 

Telegrams:  "HOTEL."  Mrs.  FRASER,  Zm^^?. 

fpHIS  Country  Hotel  will  be  found  replete  with  all  requirements  and 
-^  conveniences  to  suit  the  demand  of  all  Tourists  and  Familie.s. 
Visitors  can  have  Free  Fishing  by  staying  in  the  Hotel. 

Starting  point  for  the  famous  parallel  roads  of  Glenroy.  Carriages 
from  Hotel  Stables.  Rail  from  Glasgow,  four  hours.  Five  minutes' 
walk  from  Railway  Station.     G.P.O.  at  Hotel. 

ST.  ANDREWS,  N.B. 

ELDER'S    PRIVATE    HOTEL  *^ 

FIRST  CLASS  PRIVATE  HOTEL 

riiTOl     Close  to  Station  and  Links. 

TABLE  D'SOTS;    SEPARATE  TABLES.    LARQE  DRAWING 
ROOM,  AND  PRIVATE  SITTING  ROOMS. 

Sanitary  arrangements  complete. 
Moderate  Charges.  DAVID  ELDER,  Ltssw. 


ST.    LEONARDS-ON-SEA SALISBURY 


73 


ST.  LEONARDS-ON-SEA. 


High-class  Boarding  Establishment.  Facing 
the  Sea.    Centre  of  Promenade. 

Charming  Winter  Resi-  ^ 

dence,    hi  lli  n  i1  g 

ussEB 


HOUSE 


^s^i^i^ 


^^  Highly 

Recommended. 
GOOD  CUISINE. 
Electric  Light  throughout.    Bath.    Liberal  Table. 
Large  and  Lofty  Rooms.     Moderate  Inclusive  Tariff. 
Under  the  personal  supervision  of  the  PROPRIETRESS. 

ST.  LEONARDS-ON-SEA. 


FIFE    PRIVATE    HOTEL, 


V 


EVERSFIELD    MANSIONS. 

ISITORS  will  find  every  home  comfort  in  this  Establishment,  facing 
the  Sea  in  the  most  enviable  position  of  St.  Leonards,  and  within 
easy  access  of  the  Turkish  and  Swimming  Baths.  Terms  for  Board  and 
Residence  1^  to  3  Guineas,  or  6s.  6d.  to  10s.  6d,  per  day.  Saturday  to 
Monday,  15s.  6d.     Warrior  Square  Station. 

Miss  BRIDIE,  Proprietress. 

SAIJSBUEY. 


THE  WHITE  HART  HOTEL. 

The  Largest  and  Principal  Hotel  in  the  City. 
A  N  old-established  and  well-known  first-class  Family  Hotel, 
^^  nearly  opposite  Salisbury  Cathedral,  and  within  a  pleasant 
drive  of  Stonehenge.  This  Hotel  is  acknowledged  to  be  one  of 
the  most  comfortable  in  England.  Table  d'H6te  Meals  at 
separate  Tables  two  hours  each  meal  daily.  Electric  Light  in 
all  Public  Rooms. 

A  Ladies'  Coffee  Room,  a  Coffee  Room  for  Gentlemen,  and 
first-class  Billiard  and  Smoking  Rooms. 

Carriages  and  Horses  of  every  description  for  Stonehenge 
and  other  places  of  interest  at  fixed  inclusive  charges.  Excellent 
Stabling.     Loose  Boxes,  etc. 

Posting- Master  to  Her  Late  Majesty. 
Tariff  on  application  to  ERNEST  BOWES,  Manager. 


74  SCARBOROUGH SOILLT    ISLES — SHETLAND 

SCAEBOROUGH. 

W.  ROlfi^NTREE  &  SONS, 

HOUSE  &  ESTATE  AGENTS. 

Best  Furnished  and  Unfurnished  Houses. 

BEWQVAL  &  STORAGE  CONTRACTORS. 

r.iffrroJT'-.  Close  to  Railway  Station.  ""**-««-*. 

ST.  MARY'S,  SCILLY.    . 

HOIiGATE'S^^'^ 

FIRST-GLASS    --^^^ 

H i«  tF a m I l y  ho t s l:"''  ' 

Every  Modern  Convenience.     Hotel  Bus  meets  every  Steamer. 
Telegrams — "  Holgate's,  Scilly." 

E.  N.  MUMFORD,  Froprieior. 

tregarthen'sThotel: 

ST.   MARY'S,  ISLES  OF  SCILLY. 

THE  Oldest  Established  Hotel  in  the  Islands,  standing  in  its  own 
Grounds  (within  three  minutes'  walk  of  tlie  landing  pier).  Ke^v 
Wings  just  completed  and  furnished  in  modern  style.  Every  home 
comfort.  Good  Reading  and  Smoking  Rooms  for  Gentlemen.  Ladies' 
Drawing  Room.  Hot  and  Cold  Fresh  and  Salt-water  Baths.  Electric 
Light  throughout.  The  Rooms  command  a  beautiful  Panoramic  View  ot 
the  adjacent  Islands.  Hotel  Porter  meets  all  Steamers.  Tariff  on 
application  to  the  MANAGERESS.  '  ^  ^  *  - 


CLOU ST A   HOTELS 


BIXTER,  SHETLAND. 


SITUATED  at  the  head  of  the  beautiful  landlocked  Voe  of  Clonstaj  oti 
the  West  Coast  of  Shetland.  Fishing  is  first-class  for  brown  trout  ir 
twenty  lochs  from  1st  June  to  end  of  August.  For  sea  trout  in  five  lochs, 
four  voes,  and  one  large  burn.  Good  shooting  over  20,000  acres,  snipe, 
plover,  rock  pigeon,  many  kinds  of  duck,  rabbits  and  seals  and  otters 
along  the  coast.     The  boating  and  sea-fishing  are  excellent. 

.xt>\jw»vbU».  .aa'vVOa  \<\AV^L.    t.  a.  ANDERSON,  Secntary. 


SKYE SLIGO.  75 

ISLE  OF  SKYE. 

SLIGAGHAN  HOTEL' 

Within  easy  driving  distance  of  the  Terminus  of  the  Highland  Railway, 
Kyle  ofLochalsh  Station. 

TSTEAREST  Hotel  to  Loch  Scavaig  and  Loch  Coruisk.  "  Sligachan  in  Skye  is  the 
■^^  rock-climbing  centre  '  par  excellence '  of  the  British  Isles."  See  Badminton 
Library,  Vol.  Mountaineering,  p.  342.  Beautifully  situated  at  the  Foot  of  the  Cuchullin 
Hills.  Ponies  and  Guides  for  iLoch  Scavaig  and  Loch  Coruisk.  Parties  living  in 
the  Hotel  have  the  privilege  of  good  Salmon,  Sea,  and  Brown  Trout  Fishing  during 
May,  June,  and  July  on  one  of  the  best  Lochs  in  Skye,  also  Sea-Trout  fishing  on  the 
River  Sligachan  ;  also  good  Loch  and  Sea  Fishing. 

BOATS   FBEE   OF  CHABQB. 

I  *^  "^  BOATMEN,  4s.  PER  DAY.  "^  fl  Q 

Parties  landing  at  Loch  Scavaio  or  Loch  Coruisk  can  have  Ponies  afid  Guides 
sent  to  meet  them  at  Camasiinary,  or  the  hill  above  Loch  Coruisk,  by  sending  Letter 
or  Telegram  the  day  previous.    Cook's  Coupons  accepted. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offices  in  the  Hotel. 
POSTING    IN    ALL   ITS    BEANCHES. 
Telegraphic  Address,  WM.  SHARP,   Proprietor. 

"Sharp,  Sligichan."  j   .-,iUf± 


ISLE  OF  SKYE. 

BROADFORD    HOTEL. 

THE  best  starting-place  for  the  Cuchullins,  ]>och  Scavaig,  and  Loch  Coruisk,  -which 
are  seen  to  greatest  advantage  when  approached  from  the  Sea.     Good  Sea,  River, 
and  Loch  Fishing  ;  also  Boats  free  of  charge.     Parties  Boarded  at  Moderate  Terms. 

All  Steamers  between  Oban,  Kyle  of  Lochalsh,  Portree,  Gairloch,  Stornaway,  etc., 
call  here  daily. 

The  new  Pier  is  now  open,  and  all  Steamers  land  passengers  there.    Boots  will 
await  arrival  of  Steamers  during  the  Season. 

Poatiag.    Post  and  Telegraph  Office, 

J.  ROSS,  Lessee. 

SLIGO 

VICTORIA    HOTEL 

{FIRST-CLASS). 
PATRONISED  BY  ALL  THE  NOBILITY  AND  GENTRY. 

TOURISTS,  Anglers,  and  Families  will  find  every  convenience,  com- 
bined with  cleanliness  and  moderate  charges. 

PRIVATE   ROOMS,  LADIES'   SITTING  ROOMS. 

BATHS— HOT,   COLD,   AND   SHOWIER.      BILLIARDS,   GOLF. 

Gentlemen  staying  at  this  Hotel  have  the  privilege  of  Free  Fishing  for 

Salmon  and  Trout  on  Lough  Gill.     Boats  for  hire.     Posting  in  all  its 

branches.      Omnibus   attends   all   trains.      Cook's   and   Gaze's  Coupons 

accepted.  J.  A.  HALL,  Proprietor. 


76  SOUTHPORT 80UTHSEA STIRLING. 

SOUTHPORT. 

SMEDLEY    HYDROPATHIC 

BIREDALE  PARE. 

RE-FURNISHED  and  RE-DECORATED.     ELECTRIC  LIGHT.     LATE  DINNERS. 

WELL  adapted  for  Summer  or  Winter  residence,  for  either  Invalids  or  Visitors. 
Terms  from  7s.  6d.  per  day.    Turkish,  Russian,  Plunge,  and  other  Baths. 
Hydropathy  fully  treated,  under  own  Physician,  Dr.  Corkhill. 
NEAR  GOLF  LINKS.        LAWN  TENNIS,  BILLIARDS,  ETC. 

For  Prospectus,  apply  MANAGERESS. 


SOUTHSEA. 


•oos  rrJfg 


ROYAL  PIER  HOTEL, 

SOUTHSEA,    POKTSMOUTH. 
'  ^'.^^"t!^       Manageress .— Miss  BRAIJ{E. 

THIS  First-Class  Hotel  has  been  redecorated  and  refurnished.     It  is 
situated  in  the  best  part  of  Southsea,  and  is  the  most  convenient  foi' 
Naval,  Military,  and  Official  Gentlemen  and  Families. 

The  spacious  Dining  and  Drawing  Rooms,  as  well  as  the  principal 
Bedrooms,  immediately  overlook  the  Common,  the  Channel,  and  the 
Isle  of  Wight. 

Tariff  very  moderate.  Modified  terms  arranged  for  large  parties  or  for 
long  periods. 

Book  to  Portsmouth  Town  Station,  from  which  the  Hotel  is  only  about 
five  minutes'  drive. 

_,  -^  ^   ,      STIELING. 

WAVtilLEV  TEMPERANCE  HOTEL 

Formerly  CARMICHAEV S.     Estallished  over  Fifty  Years. 

Within  three  minutes'  walk  of  the  Station,  and  on  the  way    • 
to  the  Castle.     Also  Restaurant  in  Connection. 
First-Class  Hotel  for  Families,  Tourists,  &  Commercial  Gentlemen. 
MODERATE  CHARGES. 

P.  M 'ALPINE,  Proprietor. 


STRATHPBFFER. 


11 


SPA   HOTEL. 

THE  OLDEST-ESTABLISHED  &  LEADING  HOTEL 

HIGHEST  SITUATION  (400  feet  above  Sea-level). 


THE  SPORTING  HOTEL  OF 
THE  HIGHLANDS. 

SUPERIOR  MIXED  SHOOTING. 

SALMON  &  TROUT  PISHING  FREE. 

BOATING.     GOLF.     TENNIS.     CROQUET. 
CLOSE  TO  FINE  18-HOLE  GOLF  COURSE. 

CONTAINS  Spacious  Public  Rooms,  Private  Apartments  en  suite, 
Recreation  and  Ball  Rooms,  Conservatories,  and  is  secluded  enough 
to  ensure  to  visitors  the  Privacy  and  Quiet  of  an  ordinary  Country 
Residence. 

Cycle  Court  with  Professional  attendants.    Croquet  Green. 
POSTING  IN  ALL  ITS  BRANCHES. 

A.  WALLACE,  Momager, 
r^e^aww—"  WALLACE,  Strathpeffeb,  " 


78  STRATHPEFFER 

MUNRO'S 

STRATHPEFFER  HOTEL. 

HIGHLAND   SPA. 

NEAREST  HOTEL  TO  THE  RAILWAY  STATION,  THE  WELLS, 

AND    NEW   GOLF   COURSE.     HOTEL   ENLARGED. 
EVERY  HOME  COMFORT  WITH  MODERATE  CHARGES. 

i  EN  PENSION  2^^  GUINEAS,  £3:]0s.  i 

I  JOHN  M.  MUNRO,  Proprietor,    i 

STRATHPEFFER  SPA,  ROSS-SHIRE. 

WHYTE'S   HOTEL. 

CLOSE  TO  THE  WELLS  AND  BATHS. 

A.  D.  WHYTE,  Proprietor. 
STRATHPEFFER. 

RAYENSCROFT. 

FIRST-CLASS  BOARDING  HOUSE. 

FINELY  and  healthily  situated  on  elevated  ground,  and  within  easy 
walking  distance  of  the  famous  Sulphur  and  Chalybeate  Wells  and 
Baths.     Good  cooking  and  every  comfort.     Moderate  terms. 

Ap2Jhj  MRS.  ANDERSON, 

RaVENSCEOFT,  STRATHPEFFER,  N.B. 


■  J... .  t-r>--  STRATHPEFFER. 

BALMORAL    LODGE, 

FIRST-CLASS  BOARDING  HOUSE, 

OITUATED  on  the  hill,  commanding  a  fine  view  with  southern 
^  exposure ;  close  to  the  Mineral  Wells,  Baths,  and  Golf  Course. 
Public  Dining  Room  and  Drawing  Room,  Private  Parlours.     Terms  on 

'^''"""""-  •  •^.;:;„.le  J*-  I'^^NET,  Proprietrix. 


STRATFORD-ON-AVON — TENBY — TINTAGEL TOMINTOUL 


79 


TENBY. 

THE  COBOURG  HOTEL: 

PACING  THE  SEA.      NORTH  BAY. 

Ladies'  Drawing  Room,  Private  Sitting  Rooms,  Hot  and  Cold  Bath 
Rooms.  Tariff  on  application.  Special  Terms  for  Winter  Season. 
Omnibus  to  all  Trains. 

Also  of  the  Royal  Station  Hotel,  Bath. 

Mrs.  J.  HUGHES,  Proprietress, 


TINTAGEL,  NORTH  CORNWALL. 

WHARNCLIFFE  ARMS  HOTEL, 

FIRST-CLASS  FOR  FAMILIES  AND  TOURISTS. 

1  \EI-IGHTFULLY  situated  near  the  Sea,  and  within  five  minutes'  walk  of  tlie  cclc- 
^  bratt'd  King  Arthur's  Castle,  and  the  tinest  and  most  romantic  scenery  in  England. 
Within  tour-and-a-half  miles  of  the  Camelford  Station  on  the  Ij.  &  S.  W.  Railway. 
Jonveyances  from  this  Hotel'  meet  the  principal  trains,  or  Private  Carriages  can  be 
ient  at  any  hour  on  receipt  of  "Wire. 


Telegraphic  Address— "FRY,  TINTAGEL 


JAMES  FRY,  Proprietor. 


TOMINTOUL,  N.B. 

By  Orantown  or  Ballindalloch, 

RICHMOND  HOTEL. 

(/«  connecti<rn  with  King's  Arms,  Oban}. 

>^KW  First-cl!i8s  Kaiiiily  Hotel  hikI 
-^^  Health  Resort :  1161  ft.  alwve  sen 
•vel :  on  driving  route  between  Brae- 
liir,  Buluiui-al,  aud  Grautown.     Fig 

>.•(;,  GOI.K,  POHTINO. 

HUfK  Coacli,  1.5th  Jane  to  I9th  So{ 

Toniintoul leave   9  ».ni. 

Grantown  . . .  .arr.  11.30  a.m. 
Orantown  . . .  .leave  3.30  p.m. 
Tomintoul. . .  .arr.  6  p.m. 


STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 


SHAKESPEARE   HOTEL 

AND    ITS    FIVE   GABLES. 

First-Class  Family  Hotel  and  Posting  House.    Centrally  situated. 


HOTEL  OMNIBUS  MEETS  THE  TRAINS. 


BILLIARDS  AND  BATHS. 

A.  JUSTINS,  Proprietrm. 


80 


TORQUAY TR0S8ACHS. 


TORQUAY  OLD  ESTABLISHED 

HIGH-CLASS  BOARDING  ESTABLISHMENT. 


idiiiws 


South  aspect,  grand  Sea  View.  Close  to  Royal  Terrace,  Gardens,  Rock  Walks,  Promenad 
Pier,  Town  Station.  House  stands  in  its  own  Grounds.  Lawn  Tennis  Courts  free  fc 
Visitors.  Terms  on  application.      Proprietress  Mrs.  MANN,  Kietor  House,  Bdgrave  Ra 


TROSSACHS, 

STRONACHLACHAR    HOTEL, 

HEAD    OF    LOCH    KATRINE. 

DONALD  FERGUSON,  Proprietor. 

THIS  Hotel,  the  only  one  on  the  shores  of  Loch  Katrine,  is  mos 
beautifully  situated  in  the  heart  of  ROB  ROY'S  Country 
GLENGYLE  and  the  romantic  GRAVEYARD  of  CLAJ 
GREGOR,  both  described  at  page  77  of  "Perthshire  Guide, 
being  in  close  proximity ;  and  as  a  fishing  station  it  is  unsurpassec 
Excellent  boats  and  experienced  boatmen  are  kept  for  parties  stayini 
at  the  HoteL 

The  Hotel  is  replete  with  every  comfort,  and  is  reached  either  by  way  c 
Callander  and  Trossachs  and  the  Loch  Katrine  Steamer,  or  by  the  Loci 
Lomond  Steamer  and  Coach  from  Inversnaid,  there  being  a  full  service  o 
Coaches  and  Steamers  by  both  these  routes  during  the  season. 

.  j^:  Post  and  Telegraph  Office  In  Hotel. 

fc.HTA>T<Ti        BOARD  BY  WEEK  OR  MONTH. 

Carriages  and  other  Conveyances  kept  for  Hire. 
Address  :  STRONACHLACHAR,  by  Inversnaid. 


TROSSACHS.  81 


OJii 


TROSSACHS   HOTEL, 

LOCH    KATRINE. 

B.  BLAIE,  Proprietor, 

rriHIS  First-Class  Hotel  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  midst  of 
-*-  the  classic  scenery  of  Scott's  "  Lady  of  the  Lake,"  and  is  the 
ONLY  HOTEL  in  the  Trossachs. 

Parties  staying  for  not  less  than  a  week  can  be  boarded  on 
SPECIAL  TERMS,  excepting  from  15th  July  to  15th  Sept. 

During  the  season  Coaches  run  from  Callander  Railway  Station 
to  the  Trossachs,  in  connection  with  all  Trains,  and  in  connection 
with  all  Steamers  on  Loch  Katrine.  These  Coaches  all  stop  at  this 
Hotel,  giving  passengers  time  to  Lunch. 

Excellent  Fishing  in  Lochs  Katrine  and  Achray.  Boats  en- 
gaged at  the  Hotel,  and  at  the  Boathouse,  Loch  Katrine  Pier. 

.^^  ^BILLIARDS.        LAWN    TENNIS. 

i^r^  THE  TROSSACHS  HOTEL,  ^        1 

Loch  Katrine, 

By  CALLANDER,  N.B. 

R.  BLAIR,  Proprietor. 

POST  AND  TELEGRAPH  OFFICE  IN  HOTEL. 

6 


82        TUNBRIDGE  WELLS TWEEDSMUIR TYNDRUM WARWICK. 

TUNBRIDGE  WELLS. 

WILD'S  TEMPERANCE  HOTEL 

FIRST  CLASS.  GROVE  HILL  ROAD. 

TWO  minutes  from  S.E.R.   Station.      Ten  minutes  from   L.B.  &S.C, 
Close  to  Common.    Home  Comforts  and  Cleanliness.    Drawing  Room 
Smoke  Room  and  Large  Coffee  Room. 

Also  at  B  EIGHT  ON. 
York  House  Temperance  Hotels,  Ltd.,  Proprietors. 

TWEEDSMUIR,  PEEBLESSHIRE. 

THE  CROOK  HOTEL,  OR  ANGLER'S  RESORT 

IS  finely  situated  on  Upper  Tweed,  7  miles  from  Broughton  Station 
Peeblesshire  (Caledonian  Rly.).  Free  Fishing  on  Tweed  and  tribu 
taries.  Posting  from  the  Hotel.  Charges  moderate.  Visitors  comin^^ 
from  a  distance  should  write  at  least  a  day  before,  to  have  conveyanci 
waiting  them  at  Station. 

Any  other  information  may  he  had  from  the  Manageress. 


TYNDRUM. 

ROYAL  HOTEL,  TYNDRUM,  PERTHSHIRE 

800  feet  above  sea-level,  and  gravel  soil.  Bracing,  cleai 
mountain  air.  Picturesque  scenery.  Trout-fishing  good  anc 
free  of  charge.     Large  modern  rooms. 

CHARGES    MODERATE. 
POSTING    IN    ALL    ITS    BRANCHES. 

JOSEPH  STEWART,  Proprietor. 

WARWICK. 

WOOLPACK   HOTEL. 

Tj^IRST-CLASS  Family.     Much  enlarged,  refurnished  throughoul 
Ladies'   Coffee   Room.      Drawing    and   Bath    Rooms.      Wei 
patronised  by  Americans.      Excellent  Stabling.     Charges  moderat( 
Heated  throughout  la  Winter. 
ja^rOH  m  r        MRS.  ANNE  HALBEARD,  Proprietress. 


(WATERFORD,  WATERVILLE,  WEST  LINTON,  SPA  84) WINDERMERE.  83 

BELSFIELD  HOTEL, 

WINDERMERE. 


^Si>rx^  ,_^^,  ■ '- 


"BELSFIELD  HOTEL"  has  justified  its  claim  to  the  premier  position  among  the 
leading  hotels  of  the  neighbourhood.  This  palatial  building— originally  erected  as  a 
private  mansion— stands  within  no  fewer  than  eight  acres  of  charmingly  designed  and 
well  -  wooded  grounds  that  are  remarkable  as  vantage-points  for  some  of  the  most 
picturesque  views.  The  interior  has  been  superbly  decorated,  the  ceilings  and 
mural  embellishments  being  really  remarkable  as  works  of  art,  while  equal  taste  has 
been  displayed  in  the  details  of  the  costly  furniture.  Indeed,  such  handsome 
surroundings  are  rarely  to  be  met  with  at  Hotels  either  in  or  out  of  London. 

Private  Omnibus  attends  all  Trains,  and  also  at  the 
Steam  Yacht  Pier,  Bowness  Bay. 

Four-in-hand  Coaches  leave  the  Hotel  daily  for  all  parte  of  the 
Lake  District.  1 U  ^jL  U  y 

GOLF.  BILLIARDS.  FISHING.  TENN!S. 

Lighted  by  Electricity. 

Under  the  Personal  Superintendence  of  the  Proprietor, 

Telephone  No.  123. 

T..L.oR*Ms_  A.  D.  M'LEOD 


I- 


Belskield,  Windermere. 


(Late  Manager,  Gairloch  Hotels  Ross-shire). 


84         WATERFORD WATBRVILLE WEST    LINTON YARMOUTH. 

WATERFORD. 

^  THE  ADELPHI  HOTEL,  WATERFORD. 


DAVID  KEOGH,  Proprietor. 


4^ 


'pHIS  ia  one  of  the  most  beautifully  situated  Hotels  in  the  South  of  Ireland  ;  it  com- 
-•-  mands  a  full  view  of  the  River  Suir,  the  unrivalled  Quay  of  Waterford,  and  the 
most  picturesque  scenery  about  the  city. 

THE  SITTING  ROOMS,  LADIES'  COFFEE  ROOMS,  AND  BEDROOMS 
are  large,  lofty,  and  commodious. 

There  is  also  a  well-appointed  Billiard  Room  and  a  comfortable  Smoking  Room. 

Families,  Tourists,  and  Commercial  Gentlemen  who  appreciate  comfort,  cleanliness, 
and  careful  attention,  combined  with  moderate  charges,  will  find  in  this  Hotel  all  that 
is  desirable. 

An  Omnibus  attends  the  arrival  and  departure  of  the  Trains  and  Steamboats. 

WATERVILLE.  ~ 

BAY    YIEW    HOTEL, 

WATERVILLE,  OO.  KERRY. 

Salmon  and  Sea  Trout  Fishing, 
"y  ISITORS  to  this  Hotel  can  have  the  privilege  of  free  Salmon  Fishing  on  the  well- 
^  known  Cummeragh  and  Inny  Rivers,  and  White  Trout  fishing  on  the  well-known 
Derriana  Lakes,  now  admitted  to  be  the  best  fishing  in  Ireland,  the  Proprietor 
having  leased  the  Fishing  on  these  Private  Waters  for  the  exclusive  use  of  his  Visitors. 
Also  60,000  acres  of  Grouse  Cock  and  Snipe  Shooting.  Bathing,  Boating,  Sea 
Fishing,  Golfing,  and  Lawn  Tennis  Courts  on  own  grounds.  Scenery  magnificent.  Lake, 
Sea,  and  Mountain.  J.  GALVIN,  Proprietor. 

WEST  LINTON. 

RAEMARTIN  TEMPERANCE   HOTEL. 

830  feet  above  sea  level. 

OFFERING  Home  Comforts  and  unlimited  delights  to  Golfer,  Angler, 
Cyclist,  or  Pedestrian  ;  and  medically  recommended  as  a  most  ex- 
cellent Health  Resort,  Moderate  Terms. 

J.  K.  RAE,  Proprietor. 

QUEEN'S  HOTEL,  Marine  Parade,  Great  Yanouth. 

g    NATIONAL  TELEPHONE,  No.  28.    TELEGRAMS,  "Nightingale,  Queen's,  Great  Yannouth." 

FINEST  position,  in  the  centre  of  the  Marine  Parade.  Opposite  the  New  Pier,  close  to 
Aquarium.  Facing  the  Sea  and  New  Beach  Gardens.  Unrivalled  views.  Nearest 
Hotel  to  the  Golf  Links.  Luxuriously  furnished.  Fitted  with  all  modern  improve- 
ments, Sanitation  perfect.  Private  Apartments,  Coffee  and  Table  d'H6te  Room  (electric 
light)  120  feet  long— facing  the  sea.  Ladies'  Drawing  Room,  Smoke,  Billiard  (newly 
erected  and  re-titted),  Reading  and  Writing,  Bath  Rooms  (Fresh  and  Sea  Water— direct 
supply),  etc.  125  Bed  and  Sitting  Rooms.  Excellent  Cuisine,  Table  d'H6te  at 
separate  tables.  J.  W.  NIGHTINGALE,  Proprietor. 

"The  'Queen's'  for  position,  is  unrivalled."— ©enWeman'*  Journal,  3rd  September  1897. 


COACHES RAILWAYS.  85 

NORTH  DEVON. 

LYNTON    AND    MINEHEAD.    ' 

The  Well-appointed  Vast  Four-Horse  Coaolies 

"LORNA  DOONE"  &  "RED  DEER" 


Commence  running   for  the   Season,  on  Easter. 
Monday,  between  Kailway  Station,  Minehead,  and 
Royal  Castle  Hotel,  Lynton.     For  particulars  see  G.  W.  Railway  Time  Tables 
and  Bills.  THOMAS  BAKER,  Proprietor. 

Lynton,  1902Br  a38M3T<!38  §t>  J8 

~  DEESIDE    COACHES. 

BALLATER  &  BRAEMAR  YIA  BALMORAL. 

Are   now  running   Daily  (Sundays   excepted),   in 
connection  with  Trains  froni  and  to  AberdeeNi  aa 
Ballater,  1st  June  1902.        undernoted  :—  ■,;  to 

May.  June.  July,  August,  September. 


Ballater..     dep.  10    Oft.m.  10    0a.m.  2  15p.m.  10    0a.m.  12    5p.m.  2  15p.m. 

Braemar arr.  12  30  p.m.  12  30  p.m.  4  45  p.m.  12  30  p.ui.  2  35  p.m.  4  45  p.m. 

Braemar dsp.    3  15  p.m.  9  25  a.m.  4  40  p.m.  9  15  a.m.  3    5  p.m.  4  40  p.m. 

Ballater   arr.    5  30  p.m.  11  40  a.m.  6  55  p.m.  1130  a.m.  5  20  pm.  6  55  p.m. 

Tickets  secured  at  Joint  Railway  Station  Ticket  Office,  Aberdeen  ;  Inrercauld  Arms 
Hotel,  Ballater ;  Fife  Arms  and  Invercauld  Arms  Hotels,  Braemar. 

THE  ESKDALE  AND  LIDDESDALE  COACHING  TOURS 

In  the  Southern  Highlands  of  Scotland. 

No.  1.  Eskdale  Tour.  Daily  at  9.45  a.m.  30  miles'  drive  midst  the  bntciug  air  and  moorland 
Bceuery  of  the  Eskdale  Hills,  in  the  Historical  Land  of  Roman  Camps,  Druid  Cireles,  Hand-fastening 
Haughs,  Covenanting  Haunts,  and  Martyrs'  Monument,  etc.,  etc. 

Returning  4.50  p.m.  in  connection  with  trains  North  and  South.     Fare  3*.  6d.     Parties  of  Hx,  3«.  each. 

No.  2.  Liddesdale  Tour.  Every  Thursday  at  9.10  a.m.  40  miles'  drive  in  Ewesdale,  Liddesdale,  and 
Eskdale,  through  the  Land  of  Lord  Ernest  Hamilton's  "Outlaw!  of  the  liarchei,"  visiting  Hermitage 
Castle  (associated  with  the  name  of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots,  Bothwell,  Lord  Soulis,  and  Sir  W.  Douglas), 
and  passing  Hartsgarth,  Kedheugh,  Whithaugh,  Tarras,  etc. 

Returning  5.15  p. tn.  in  connection  with  trains  North  and  South,     fare  44.     Parties  of  six,  3«.  6(f.  each. 
For  full  particulars  of  both  Coach  Tours,  send  3  stamps  for  Illustrated  Guide. 

Proprietor— ^m.  DOUGLAS,  Eskdale  Temperance  Hotel,  Langholm,  N.B. 
Telegram* — "  Eskdale  Hotel."  For  Hotel  advertisement  see  page  42. 

THE   HIGHLAND   RAILWAY. 

THE  HIGHLAND  LINE,  via  PERTH  and  DUNKELD, 

IS  THE  DIRECT  AND  QUICKEST  to 

INVERNESS  AND  THE    NORTHERN  HIGHLANDS  OF  SCOTLAND. 


For  particulars  as  to  Train  Service,  Through  Carriages,  Fares,  etc.,  see  the  Company's 
Time-table,  which  will  be  sent  to  any  address  on  application. 

The  Station  Hotel,  Inverness,  has  been  Renovated  and  Refurnished, 
and  Is  now  open  to  Visitors. 

Invkrkbss,  1902.  T.  A.  WILSON,  General  Manager. 


86 


RAILWAYS. 


FURNESS    RAILWAY. 


f.MioeQO  &RnoTX--iXjo'*i   toa'T.  beinioc 


Twenty  Coach  and  Steam  Tacht 
TGURS  THROUGH    LAKELAND 


ffi'l'  .9itfiT 


DAILY  DURING 


JUNE,  JULY,  AUGUST,  &  SEPTEMBER  1902. 


No.  1.— OUTER  CIRCULAR  TOUR,  em- 
bracing Windermere  Lake,  Fumess 
Abbey,  and  Coniston. 

No.  2.— INNER  CIRCULAR  TOUR,  em- 
bracing  Furness  Abbey,  Coniston  Lake 
(Gondola),  and  Crake  Valley. 

No.  3.— GRANGE  and  WINDERMERE 
CIRCULAR  TOUR,  embracing  Grange, 
Kendal,  and  Windermere  Lake. 

No.  4.— MIDDLE  CIRCULAR  TOUR,  em- 
bracing Windermere  Lake,  the  Crake 
Valley,  and  Coniston  Lake. 

No.  5.— RED  BANK  and  GRASMERE 
TOUR,  vid  Ambleside  and  Skelwith 
Force. 

No.  6.— THIRLMERE,  GRASMERE,  and 
WINDERMERE  TOUR,  vid  Ambleside, 
Clappersgate,  and  Red  Bank. 

No.  7.— THE  FOUR  LAKES  CIRCULAR 
TOUR,  viz.  Coniston,  Grasmere,  Rydal, 
and  Windermere. 

No.  8.— CONISTON  to  CONISTON  TOUR, 
via  Red  Bank,  Grasmere,  and  Amble- 
side. 

No.  9.— TARN  HOWS  TOUR,  vm  Amble- 
side and  Coniston,  returning  by  Tilber- 
thwaite  and  Elterwater. 

No.  10.— ROUND  THE  LANGDALES  and 
DUNGEON  GHYLL  TOUR,  vid  Amble- 
side, Colwith  Force,  Grasmere,  and 
Rydal. 


No.  11.— ULLSWATERTOUR,  ma  Amble- 
side, Kirkstone  Pass,  and  Brothers 
Water,  returning  vid  the  Vale  of  Trout- 
beck  and  Lowwood. 

No.  12.— DERWENTWATER  (Keswick) 
TOUR,  vid  Ambleside,  Grasmere,  and 
Thirlmere. 

No.  13.— THE  FIVE  LAKES  CIRCULAR 
TOUR,  viz.  Windermere,  Rydal,  Gras- 
mere, Thirlmere,  and  Derwentwater. 

No.  14.— WASTWATER  TOUR,  vid  Sea- 
scale  and  Gosforth. 

No.  15.— THE  SIX  LAKES  CIRCULAR 
TOUR,  viz.  Windermere,  Rydal,  Gras- 
mere, Thirlmere,  Derwentwater,  and 
Ullswater. 

No.  16.— THE  DUDDON  VALLEY  TOUR, 
vid  Broughton-in-Fiu-ness,  Ulpha,  and 
Seathwaite. 

No.  17.— THE  ROUND  OF  CONISTON 
LAKE  NEW  TOUR. 

No.  18.— ENNERDALE  LAKE  and 
OALDER  ABBEY  TOUR,  vid  Seascale, 
Gosforth,  and  Cold  Fell. 

No.  19.— ACROSS  THE  FERRY  TOUR, 
vid  Esthwaite  Water,  Hawkshead, 
Ferry,  and  Storrs  Hall. 

No.  20.— CARTMEL  PRIORY  and 
NEWBY  BRIDGE  TOUR,  vid  Winder- 
mere (Lake  Side),  Holker  Park,  and 
Grange. 


For  further  particulars  see  "Tours  through  Lakeland"  Pamphlets, 
to  be  had  gratis  at  all  Furness  Railway  Stations  ;  of  Mr.  F.  J.  Ramsden, 
Superintendent  of  the  Line,  Barrow-in-Furness ;  at  Messrs.  Thos.  Cook 
&  Sons'  and  H.  Gaze  &  Sons'  Offices,  and  the  Polytechnic  Institute, 
Regent  Street,  "W.,  and  Royal  Exchange,  Manchester;  or  Messrs.  W.  H. 
Smith  &  Son's  principal  Bookstalls  (price  ^d. ). 

The  New  Palette  Album,  illustrating  the  above  Tours,  is  now  published, 
price  6d. 

ALFRED  ASLETT, 

BARROw-iN-FURNESSj.^nuivv*  «•  n:i    Secretary  and  General  Manager. 
April  1902.  IW.A.T 


RAILWAYS. 


87 


GREAT    WESTERN    RAILWAY 


lUICKEST,  BEST  AND  MOST  PICTURESQUE  ROUTE  TO 

Bath,  Bristol,  Exeter,  Plymouth,  North  and  South  Devon,  Cornwall, 
Birmingham,  Midland  Counties,  South  Wales,  Ireland,  etc. 


EXPRESS  TRAINS  between  LONDON  (Paddington  Station) 

AND 

HOURS. 

AND            j  HOURS. 

AND               j  HOURS. 

AND 

HOURS. 

Bristol    .    .  in 
Weymouth.  „ 
Exeter    .    .  „ 
Torquay.    .  „ 

P 

Plymouth  .in         5i 
Penzance  .  ,,          8^ 

Oxford  .    .   „  i        11 
Worcester.   ,,          2i 

Leamington   .  in 
Birmingham  .  „ 
Wolv'hmpt'n.   ,, 
Shrewsbury  .   ., 

2 

f 

3J 

Chester   .    .  in 
Birkenhead    „ 
Cardiff    .    .   „ 
Swansea.    .   ,, 

5 

I 

ALL  TBAINS  are  FIEST,  SECOND  and  THIBD  CLASS. 


Corridor  Carriages,  with  reserved  Compartments  for  Ladies,  Smoking  Saloons  and  Lavatory  Compart- 
ments of  each  class,  are  run  on  many  of  the  Express  Trains. 

Channel  Islands,  via  Weyiouth  or  Southampton. 

The  Steamboat  Service  between  Weymouth  and  the  Channel  Islands  and  Southampton  and  tlie  Channel 
Islands  is  carried  on  jointly  by  the  Great  Western  and  London  and  South  Western  Railway  Companies. 
For  full  particulars  see  Time-book. 

IRELAND. 

POWERFUL  FAST  STEAMERS  BETWEEN  NEW  MILFORD  AND  WATERFORD,  AND  CORK. 

The  powerful  Steamers  between  Milford  Haven  and  Waterford,  and  Cork  afford  the  Quickest  Route  to 
all  Stations  in  the  South  and  West  of  Ireland.  Durinj»-  the  Summer  months  Tourist  Tickets  are  issued  to 
Killarney,  by  the  renowned  and  picturesque  route  popularly  known  as  the  '*  Prince  of  Wales,"  via  Glengaritl. 

NORTH  OF  IRELAND  EXPRESS  SERVICE. 
LIVERPOOL,  BELFAST  AND  LONDONDERRY. 

Through  Express  Trains  by  the  Shortest  and  Best  Route  between  WEST  OF  ENGLAND 

(Via  Severn  Tunnel),  Swansea,  Cardiff,  Newport  and  other  Stations  in  South 

Wales,  and  Liverpool,  Manchester,  Lancashire  and  Yorkshire  Districts, 

And  all  the  Principal  Towyis  in  the  North  of  England  and  Scotland. 
EXCURSION,  TOURIST  AND  OTHER  PLEASURE  TRAFFIC. 

During  the  Season  the  Great  Western  Company  supply  gratuitously  programmes  of  Tourist  arrangements 
and  Passengers  are  thereby  enabled  to  secure  valuable  and  reliable  information  as  to  Fares,  Koutes,  Convey- 
ances, etc.  Winter  Tourist  Tickets  are  issued  to  Torquay,  Paignton,  Fowey,  Newquay,  Truro,  Falmouth, 
Helston,  St.  Ives,  Penzance,  Tenby  and  certain  other  Health  Resorts.  Pleasure  Party  Tickets  at  Reduced 
Rates  are  issued  during  the  Summer  months,  and  special  arrangements  made  for  the  conveyance  of  Football 
Parties,  Cricketers,  etc.  Excursion  Trains  are  run  during  the  Season  between  the  Principal  Stations  on 
Great  Western  Railway. 

PASSENGERS'  LUGGAGE  COLLECTED  AND  DELIVERED  IN  ADVANCE  AT  1S.  PER  PACKAGE. 


DINING,  LUNCHEON  AND  BREAKFAST  SALOONS  between  London  and  Bristol, 
and  Exeter  and  CarditT.     Table  d'Hote  dinner,  3s.  dl.  ;  Breakfast  or  Luncheon,  2S.  6d. 

LUNCHEON  BASKETS  can  be  obtained  at  the  principal  Sutions.  Hot  or  Cold  Luncheon,  with 
bottle  of  beer,  3s.  ;  without  beer,  2s.  6d. 

TEA  BASKETS,  containing  Pot  of  Tea  or  Coffee,  Bread  and  Butter,  and  Cake  or  But^;  for.  one 
person,  is.  ;  Tea  Basket  for  two  persons,  is.  6d.  "    '    Ji  i  T   . 

'•     -;    ,i;C'     ■ 

Hotels  under  the  Management  of  the  Great  Western  Railway  Company. 

Great  Western  Royal  Hotel,  P.^DDINGTON  STATION  ;  Trc^renna  Castle  Hotel,  ST.  IVES,  CORNWALL  : 
South  Wales  Hotel.  Nkw  Mii.FOKU  ;   Hotel  Wyncliffe,  Goodwick,  PEMBKOKtSHiRH. 

MARCHigoo.  '  J.  L.  WILKINSON.  Genera/ ^/a«jtr<f. 


88  RAILWAYS. 

THE  DISTRICT  RAILWAY, 

EITHER   BY   ITS   OWN    LINE    ■"^/*«' 
OR   BY   ITS  CONNECTIONS,   SERVES  -5 
THE   WHOLE   OF  THE 

PLACES  OF  AMUSEMENT, 
INTEREST,  AND  ATTRACTION, 

IN    AND   AROUND    LONDON. 

It  is  the  most  direct  and  quickest  means  of 
conveyance  between 

EAST  END,  CITY,  &  WEST  END, 

and  it  connects  with  the 
TERIVIINI  OF  ALL      " 
THE  RAILWAYS  RUNNING  INTO  LONDON. 


Through  Bookings  are  in  operation  between  the 

DISTRICT    LINE   AND   ALL   STATIONS    IN 

LONDON    AND   THE   SUBURBS. 


Always  ask  for  Tickets  "via  DISTRICT  RAILWAY." 

The  "  DISTRICT  RAILWAY  "  MAP  of  LONDON  is  obtainable 
at  the  Company's  Booking  Offices,  at  Station  Bookstalls,  and  of  the 
Principal  Booksellers  throughout  the  Kingdom. 

Price  6d.  (on  Paper),  Is.  Mounted  (Limp  or  Stiff  Cover), 
3s.  6d.  Mounted,  Rollered,  and  Varnished, 


CAMBRIAN    RAILWAYS.       s^ 

TOURS   IN   WALES. 

Bathing,  Boating,  Fishing  (Sea,  River,  &  Lake),  Golfing,  Coaching, 
Mountaineering. 

TOURIST  TICKETS  available  for  two  montlis,  issued  throughout  the  year,  from 
London  and  all  principal  Stations  in  England,  Scotland,  and  Ireland  to  Aberyst- 
wyth, Borth.,  Machynlleth,  Aberdovey,  Towyn,  Dolgelly,  Bar- 
mouth, lilanbedr  and  Pensarn,  Harlech,  Portmadoc,  Criccieth, 
Pwllheli,  Llanidloes,  Khayader,  Builth  Wells,  and  Brecon. 

CHEAP  WEEK-END  &  TEN  DAYS'  TICKETS  are  issued  every  Friday  or  Saturday 

(with  certain  exceptions,  for  which  see  the  Issuing  Companies  Announcements) 
Throughout  the  Year,  from  LONDON,  SHREWSBUKY,  BIRMINGHAM, 
WOLVERHAMPTON,  STAFFORD,  BURTON,  DERBY,  LEICESTER,  PETER- 
BORO',  LEEDS,  HUDDERSFIBLD,  STOCKPORT,  OLDHAM,  MANCHESTER, 
PRESTON,  BLACKBURN,  ROCHDALE,  BRADFORD,  WAKEFIELD,  HALIFAX, 
BOLTON,  WIGAN,  WARRINGTON,  CREWE,  LIVERPOOL,  STOKE,  BIRKEN- 
HEAD,  and  other  Stations  to  the  CAMBRIAN  WATERING-PLACES. 

ABOUT  30  BAIL  AND  COACH  EXCUBSIONS  DAILY 

Are  run  from  the  Cambrian  Railways,  during  the  Summer  Months,  through  the  finest 

Scenery  in  the  Principality. 

Cycling  and  Walking  Tours  at  cheap  fares,  through  the  Mountain,  River,  and  Lake 

Districts. 

For  particulars  see  Rail  and  Coach  Excursions  Programme,  issued  gratis  (July). 

EXPRESS  TRAINS  WITH  1st,  2nd,  AND  3rd  CLASS  LAVATORY 
CARRIAGES 

(LONDON  to  ABERYSTWYTH  6i  hours  ;  BARMOUTH  7  hours) 

Are  run  daily  during  the  Season  in  connection  with  Fast  Trains  on  the  London  and 
North  -  Western  and  other  Railways,  between  London,  Liverpool,  Manchester, 
Birmingham,  Stafford,  Shrewsbury,  Hereford,  Merthyr,  Cardiff,  Newport  (Mon.X 
&c.,  and  Aberystwyth,  Barmouth,  Ac. 

See  the  Cambrian  Bailways'  new  and  beautiful  Album  "A  SOUVENIR,"  Gems  of  picturesque 
soenepy  in  Wild  Wales.  65  SUPERB  VIEWS.  Price  6d.  At  the  principal  Railway 
Bookstalls,  the  Company's  Stations,  and  the  undermentioned  Offices,  &c. 

"PICTURESQUE    WALES"    (lUustrated). 

The  Official  Guide  •  Book  to  the  Cambrian  Railways,  edited  by  Mr.  GODFREY 
TURNER,  price  6d.,  can  be  obtained  at  the  Bookstalls,  and  at  the  Company's  Offices 
or  Stations  ;  also  of  Messrs.  W.  J.  Adams  and  Sons,  69  Fleet  Street,  London,  B.C. 

FARM-HOUSE  AND  COUNTRY  LODGINGS. 
Attention  is  drawn  to  the  illustrated  pamphlet  issued  by  the  Company, 

LISTS  OF  LODGINGS, 
Price  Id.  at  the  principal  Railway  Bookstalls  and  Company's  Stations. 
Time  Tables,  Tourist  Programmes,  Guide-Books,  and  full  particulars  of  Trains, 
Fares,  &c.,  may  be  obtained  from  Mr.  W.  H.  GOUGH,  Traffic  Superintendent, 
Oswestry,  at  any  of  the  Company's  Stations,  and  at  the  Cambrian  Offices,  91  Lord 
Street,  Liverpool,  The  Exchange,  Canlifl',  8  Stanley  Road,  Meersbrook,  Sheffield,  or 
on  application  to  the  undersigned.  Also  at  the  CAMBRIAN  RAILWAYS'  LONDON 
OFFICES,  32  WESTBOURNE  GROVE,  .53  QUEEN  VICTORIA  STREET,  150  PICCA- 
DILLY, and  at  the  undermentioned  Offices  of  Messrs.  Henry  Gaze  &  Sons,  Ltd., 
Excursion  Tourist  Agents— 

Manehester— 111  Market  Street ;  Liverpool— 93  Lord  Street ;  Birmingham— 36 
Union  Passage,  New  Street ;  Dublin— 16  Suffolk  Street ;  Qlasgow— Central  Station. 

C.  S.  DENNISS, 

Oswestry,  April  1902.  Secretary  and  General  Manager. 


90         TA"/'       RAILWAYS. 

LONDON  &  SOUTH  WESTERN  RAILWAY. 

CORRIDOR  TRAINS,  LUNCH  and  DINING  CARS,  all  classes,  are  now  running  in  principal 
servlces-between  LONDON  (Waterloo)  and  the  WEST  OF  ENGLAND. 

The  Shortest,  Quickeit,  and  most  Picturesque  Route  between  London,  Portsmouth,  Isle  of  Wight,  and  tlio 
West  of  England. 

This  popular  Railway  skirts  the  South  West  Coast,  runs  through  most  beautiful  scenery  of  Iforth  and 
South  Devon,  and  provides  direct  communication  with  the  attractive  Jforth  ComwaU  coast  via  CamMford  : 
also  with  the  /sle  of  Wight  via  Portsmouth  I/arbour,  via  Stokes  Bay,  via  Southampton,  or  via  Lymingtmi. 

It  also  supplies  frequent  services  between  London  and  the  Thames  Valley,  Richmond,  Windsor,  etc. 

Passengers  travelling  by  the  London  and  South  Western  Expresses  may  at  Exeter  make  connections  for 
Torquay,  Dartmouth,  and  South  Devon. 

Express  Trains  between  London  ( Waterloo)  and  Exeter  in  3  hours  30  mins.  ;  Il/racombe  in  6  hours 
6  utius.;  Lynton  in  6  hours  57  mins.;  Plymouth  in  6  hours  a  mins.;  Stoanage  in  3  hours  8  mlns.;  Bourne- 
mouth in  2  hours  5  mins. ;  Brockenhurst  (for  New  Forest)  in  2  hours  5  mins. ;  Weym/ruth  in  3  hours 
18  mina. ;  SoiUhampton  in  1  hour  41  mins.;  Portsmouth  in  2  hours  1  min. ;  Ryde  in  2  hours  50  mins. ; 
Ventnor  in  3  hours  20  mins.  ;  Seaton  in  4  hours  22  mins. ;  Budleigh  Satterton  in  4  hours  36  mins. ; 
Bude  in  6  hours  10  mius. ;  Padstow  in  7  hours  20  mins. 

First,  Second,  and  Third  Class  Lavatory  accommodation  in  principal  trains. 

Pullman  Cars  are  run  in  the  9.30  a.m.,  12.30,*  2.0,  and  4.50  p.m.  trains  from  Waterloo  to  Brockenhurst 
and  Bournemouth,  and  in  the  7.50,  9.12,  11.10  a.m.,  and  1.58  p.m.  trains  from  Bournemouth  to  Waterloo. 
*  Not  for  Brockenhurst. 


Steamship  Services. — The  London  and  South  Western  Steamships  are  the  largest,  mast  commodious, 
avlA  fastest  vessels  engaged  in  the  Channel  service,  and  possess  all  modem  improvements. 

To  Havre  (for  Paris,  Normandy,  and  Brittany)  every  week  day,  leaving  Waterloo  Station  at  9.60  p.m., 
arriving  Havre  6  a.m.  and  Paris  11.30  a.m. 

To  Guernsey  and  Jersey  every  week  day,  via  Southampton  and  Weymouth,  during  the  Summer,  and 
alternate  days,  via  Southampto^i  or  Weymouth,  during  the  Winter. 

To  St.  Malo  every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday. 

To  Clierbourg  every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  leaving  Waterloo  Station  at  8.5  p.m. 

Passengers'  Personal  Luggage  collected,  forwarded,  and  delivered  in  advance. 
Cheap  Tourist  and  ExciM-sion  Tickets  are  issued,  during  the  season,  to  all  parts. 

Full  particulars  can  be  obtained  at  any  of  the  Company's  Stations,  or  upon  application  to  Mj-. 
Henry  Holmes,  Superintendent  of  the  Line,  Waterloo  Station,  S.E. 

CHAS.  J.  OWENS,  GenereU  Manager. 

VISIT 

KILKEE  (%?),  LAHINCH  and  LISDOONVARNA, 

and  the  UNRIVALLED  CLIFF  and  COAST  SCENERY  of 

WEST    CLARE. 

The  Direct  Route  to  these  famous  Health  and  Pleasure  Resorts  is  by  the 
WEST  AND  SOUTH  CLARE  RAILWAYS 

From  ENNIS  to  ENNISTYMON  (for  Lisdooiivarna). 

l.AHINCH  (for  the  Golf  Greens  and  the  Cliffs  of  Moher). 
MILTOWN  MALBAY  (for  Spanish  Point),  and 

KILKEE. 

NEW  AND  DIRECT  ROUTE  BETWEEN 

KILLARNEY  AND  CONNEMARA.     ^ 

The  West  and  South  Clare  Railways  and  the  Board  of  Works'  Coach  and  Steamer 
Services  give  a  through  connection  from  Killarney,  Glengarriff  and  Listowel  to  Tar- 
bert,  Kilrush,  Kilkee,  Miltown  Malbay,  Lahinch,  Lisdoonvama,  Ennis,  Connemara, 
Dublin,  and  the  North  of  Ireland,  and  vice  versa. 

Through  Tourist  Tickkts  are  issued  at  the  Principal  Railway  Stations  in  Ireland 
and  England ;  also  at  the  Offices  of  Messrs.  Thos.  Cook  and  Son,  Messrs.  Henry  Gaze 
and  Sons,  and  Messrs.  Dean  and  Dawson  ;  and  at  the  Irish  Railway  Companies'  Tourist 
Office,  2  Charing  Cross,  London,  S.W. 

For  information  as  to  Fares,  R«utes,  Hotels,  Golfing,  Fishing,  etc.,  apply  to— 

West  Clare  Railway,  Ennis,  i!K)2.  PATBICK  SULLIVAN,  Manager. 


RAILWAYS.  91 

"  What  sends  picturesque  tourists  to  the  Rhine  and  Saxon  Switzerland  ?  Within  five 
miles  around  the  pretty  inn  of  Glengarriff  there  is  a  country  the  magnificence  of  which 
no  pen  can  give  an  idea."— Thackeray. 

CORK,   BANDON,  AND  SOUTH  COAST  RAILWAY. 


THE  LAKES  OF  KILLARNEY 

Via  CORK,   BANTRY   BAY,  &  GLENGARRIFF. 

TOIIDICTO        SHOULD   ASK    FOR    THE 
l\^wr\IOIO     CIRCULAR    TOUR    TICKETS 

BY   THE 

PRINCE  ofWALES' 

ROUTE 

{THE  TOURISTS'  FAVORITE) 

APPLICABLE    VIA 

MALLOW,  or  via  CORK,  BANTRY,  &  GLENGARRIFF. 

X/IQITORQ    ^^    IRELAND,    and    RESIDENTS    IX 

^  ■  Wl  ■  wlmO  IRELAND,  contemplating  a  Tour  to  the 
LAKES  OF  KILLARNEY,  and  travelling  via  Cork,  should  be  careful  to 
proceed  via  BANTRY,  ov-^er  the  exquisitely  beautiful  route  chosen  by  HIS 
MAJESTY  THE  KING,  when  Prince  of  Wales,  which  is  now  recognised 
as  the  GRAND  TOUR  to  KILLARNEY. 


SALOON,  LAVATORY,  AND  SMOKING  CARRIAGES  BETWEEN  CORK  AND  BANTRY. 

For  full  particulars  see  Illustrated  Guide,  Tourist  Programmes,  and 
Time  Tables,  sent  Post  Free  upon  application  to  undersigned  ;  or  apply 
to  Messrs.  Cook  &  Son  ;  Gaze  &  Sons,  Ltd.  ;  or  of  the  Company's 
London  Office,  2  Charing  Cross. 

THIS  IS  THE  ONLY  ROUTE  RUNNING  THROUGH  BANTRY 

From  the  Cork  Press. — "His  Royal  Highness  and  suite  having  selected  the  above 
route,  INDISPUTABLY  stanips  it  as  the  most  desirable  and  picturesque  one  for 
Tourists." 

Albert  Quay  Terminus,  E.  J.  O'B.  CEOEER, 

Cork,  Season  1902,  General  Manager. 


92    LANCASHIRE  AND  YORKSHIRE,  AND  LONDON  AND 
NORTH-WESTERN  RAILWAYS  ROYAL  MAIL  ROUTE. 

FLEETWOOD  TO  BELFAST 

AND  THE 

Vq    NORTH   OF   IRELAND.   JJT 

EVERY  EVENING  (SUNDAYS  EXCEPTED). 

In  connection  with  the  Iiancashire  and  Yorkshire,  and 
London  and  North- Western  Railway  Companies*  Steamers, 

^1^  "  Duke  of  Corn vrall."       "  Duke  of  Lancaster." 

pjf^'       "Duke  of  York."  "Duke  of  Clarence." 

LEAVE  FLEETWOOD  FOR  BELFAST 

Every  Evening  (Sundays  excepted),  at  11.15  p.m.,  or  after  arrival  of 
trains  from  London,  Birmingham,  Hull,  Newcastle,  Bradford,  Leeds, 
Liverpool,  Manchester,  Preston,  and  all  parts  of  the  Kingdom  ;  returning 

FROM  BELFAST  TO  FLEETWOOD 

Every  Evening  (Sundays  excepted),  at  8.30  p.m.  (on  Saturdays  the  Steamer 
leaves  at  10.30  p.m.),  arriving  in  Fleetwood  in  time  for  early  morning 
trains  to  the  above  places. 

During  the  Summer  Season,  special  additional  Steamers  will  sail  from 
Fleetwood  to  Belfast,  and  vice  versa,  by  which  Tourist  and  Excursion 
Tickets  will  be  available. 

FARES.— (No  Steward's  Fee)  Single  Journey,  Saloon,  12s.  6d. ; 
Steerage,  6s.  ;  Returns  available  for  two  months.  Saloon,  21s.  ;  Steerage, 
8s.  6d.  Through  Tickets  (single  and  return)  are  also  issued  from  all  the 
principal  Stations  of  the  London  and  North-Western,  Lancashire  and  York- 
shire, North-Eastern,  Great  Western,  Great  Northern,  and  Great  Central 
Railway  Companies,  to  Belfast,  and  vice  versa. 

SPECIAL  TOURISTS'  TICKETS  AVAILABLE  FOR  TWO  MOKTHS 

Are  issued  during  the  Summer  Season,  via  the  Fleetwood  Route,  whereby  Tourists 
may  visit  all  places  of  interest  in  the  North  of  Ireland  and  Dublin.  For  particulars, 
see  the  Lancashire  and  Yorkshire  and  London  and  North-Western  Companies'  Tourists 
Programmes. 

At  Fleetwood  the  railway  trains  run  alongside  the  steamers,  and  passengers' 
luggage  is  carried  from  the  train  at  the  quay  on  board  fkee  of  chakge. 

Fleetwood  is  unrivalled  as  a  steam  packet  station  for  the  North  of  Ireland,  and  the 
unexampled  regularity  with  which  the  Belfast  Line  of  Steamers  have  made  the  passage 
between  the  two  ports  for  more  than  forty  years  is  probably  without  a  parallel  in 
steamboat  service,  and  has  made  this  Route  the  most  popular,  as  it  is  certainly  the 
most  Expeditious  and  Desirable,  for  Passengers,  Goods,  and  Merchandise,  between 
the  great  centres  of  commerce  in  England  and  the  North  and  North-West  of  Ireland. 

LONDONDERRY  AND  FLEETWOOD 

Screw  Steamships  "  ELM  "  or  "  GARDENIA." 
From  Derry,  every  Friday  at  4  p.m. 

Applications  for  State  Rooms  or  Berths  should  be  addressed  to  Captain  J.  E. 
Jackson,  Fleetwood ;  Mr.  A.  T.  Cotton,  20  Donegal  Quay,  Belfast ;  Mr.  J.  A.  Ferris, 
7  Donegal  Place,  Belfast ;  Mr.  J.  Nicholson,  26  Royal  Avenue,  Belfast. 

For  further  information  apply  to  the  above,  and  also  to  S.  Whitehall,  District 
Superintendent ;  W.  Smith,  Goods  Department,  Fleetwood  ;  or  to  any  L.  &  Y.  or  L.  & 
N.  W.  Station. 


MISCELLANEOUS  93 

Crown  8vo.     Probable  Price  3s.  6d.  net.     Bound  in  Cloth. 


WHAT    TO    SEE 
IN    ENGLAND 


A  GUIDE  TO 

PLACES  OF 

HISTORIC 

INTEREST 

NATURAL 

BEAUTY  OR 

LITERARY 

ASSOCIATIONS 


Gbl^DON-HOME 

W///i  abotd  1 50  illustrations  specially  drawn  for  the  book  by  \ 

the  Author^  and  a  Map.  ' 

This  book  is  intended  to  put  in  the  smallest  possible  space  the  means  by 
which  one  may  reach  the  chief  places  of  interest  in  England.  It  will 
possibly  make  many  holidays,  week-ends,  or  isolated  days,  more  enjoyable 
by  placing  a  defined  object  before  the  rambler.  Places  within  an  hour  or 
two  of  London  are  in  the  front  of  the  book,  so  that  as  one  turns  over  the 
pages  one  is  taken  further  and  further  afield.  The  brief  summary  of  the 
interests  of  each  place,  and  the  many  illustrations,  may  h6lp  to  memorise 
the  impressions  obtained. 

i?-te?^.*i^  Pubihhedby    ?  yd  bloS 

ADAM  &  CHARLES  BLACK,   a 
SoHO  Square,  London. 


94 


SPORTING. 


THE  BEST  SPORTING  POWDERS. 

SPORTING 

BALLISTITE 

(CONCENTRATED). 


AND 

EMPIRE 

(BULK). 


Sold   by  all  Gunmakers  and 
Ammunition   Dealers. 


SPORTING.  96 


J.  WATSON  LYALL  &  CO.,  LTD. 
Shooting 

and  Agents, 

Fishing 

No.  118  PALL  MALL,  LONDON 

(Next  House  to  the  Senior  United  Service  Club). 


THIS  AGENCY,   FOR  THE 

XetttrtQ  anb  Selling 

OF 

Scotch  Deer  Forests,  Grouse  Moors,  Mansion  Houses, 
Low- Ground  Shootings,  Salmon  Fishings,  &c.  &c.. 

Is  one  of  the  Largest  and  most  important  Agencies  of 
the  kind  in  the  Kingdom. 

From  Messrs.  J.  Watson  Lyall  &  Co.'s  extensive  know- 
ledge of  Scotland,  and  their  connection  with  it,  they  are  in  a 
position  to  be  of  use  to  those  who  may  entrust  the  Letting 
and  Selling  of  their  Estates  to  them,  and  also  to  those  who 
wish  to  Rent  or  Purchase  Deer  Forests,  Grouse  Moors, 
Mansion  Houses,  Low-ground  Shootings,  or  Fishings,  &c. 


96 


STEAMERS. 


SPLENDID    COASTING    TOURS. 

The  neir  and  powerful  Steamers  (Electrically  lighted)  ol  the  Clyde  Shipping  Company,  Limited,  sail 
from  St.  Katharinb  Dock,  London  (near  the  Tower  Bridge)  for  Greenock  and  Glasgow  every  Tuesday. 
Thursday,  and  Saturday  ;  for  Belfast  every  Tuesday  and  Saturday  ;  and  for  Waterford  every  Thursday. 
Thursday's  Steamer  calls  at  Southampton  (during  Summer  months)  and  Pl3rmouth. 

SHORT  SEA  VOYAGES  of  a  week's  duration  (calling  at  various  ports)  can  be  made  every  Tuesday, 
Thursday,  ai\d  Saturday.  Some  sailings  are  so  arranged  that  passengers  can  remain  on  board  during 
the  round  voyage,  but  in  any  case  only  one  night  ashore  is  necessary,  thus  minimising  Hotel  Bxpenses. 
Eetum  Saloon  Fare,  £2 :  lOs. 

Private  2  Berth  Deck  Ca6iw«— Single  Journey,  £5  :  5s.  (per  cabin) ;  Return,  £8  :  Ss.  State  Cabins  (4 
Bertlu)  for  Families— Bing[6  Journey,  £6  ;  Return,  £10. 

LONDON  AND  DABTMOTJTH  for  Torquay,  Totnes,  the  Elver  Dart,  etc.  Grand  Week  End  TrlpB 
from  London  every  Thursday,  arriving  at  Dar1;month  on  Friday ;  returning  on  Saturday  afternoon, 
and  arriving  in  the  Thames  on  Sunday  afternoon.  Saloon  Fares,  Single,  I7s.  6d.  ;  Return,  £1:7:6 
(available  during  the  Season).  This  route  affords  a  favourable  oxiportunity  for  families  removing  to 
Seaside  quarters  on  the  Devon  Coast.    This  service  begins  on  3rd  July  and  ends  on  4th  September. 

ISLE  OF  MAN.— From  London,  by  Sea,  every  Tuesday  and  Saturday  {via  Belfast).  Passengers  pro- 
ceed from  Belfast  per  Isle  of  Man  Steam  Packet  Company's  Steamers  to  Peel  Pier  (daily,  at  4  aft.  Irish 
time,  during  July  and  August),  thence  Rail  to  Douglas.  Retm-n  Fares,  Saloon  and  Ist  Class  Rail,  £3. 
Or,  London  to  Belfast,  Feel,  Douglas,  Ardrossan,  Glasgow,  and  Glasgow  to  London.  Saloon  and 
1st  Class  Return,  £3 :  5  :  8. 

GRAND  IRISH  COASTING  TOURS.— Embracing  Portrush  (for  the  unequalled  Golf  Links),  Dublin, 
Cork,  Limerick,  and  the  Western  Highlands  of  Ireland. 

The  new  Steamer  "  Valentia  "  leaves  Cork  every  Tuesday  for  varioiu  West  Highland  (Ireland) 
Ports,  returning  on  Sunday.    Return  Cabin  Fare,  £1:2:6. 

Magnificent  Mountainous  Scenery.- The  Company's  Steamers  take  the  route  via  South  of  England, 
Land's  End,  Irish  Channel,  and  the  famous  Firth  of  Clyde,  to  Glasgow. 

SUPERIOR  CUISINE.  SALT  WATER   BATffS 

For  Hours  of  Sailing  and  Illustrated  Guide  (Free)  apply  to 

CLYDE  SHIPPING  COMPANY,  LIMITED, 

138  Leadenhall  Street,  London,  E.C. 


Telegraphic  Address—"  Cumbkae,  Lobtdon.' 


DAVID  HUNTER,  Agent. 


LONDON     AND     DUBLIN, 

AND  THE  SOUTH  OF  ENGLAND. 

The  best  route  for  Cornwall,  Devon,  Wilts,  Sussex,  Kent,  Essex,  Hants,  and  Surrey 
and  for  the  Scilly  Islands,  the  Isle  of  Wight,  the  Channel  Islands  and  France. 
The  British  and  Irish  Steam  Packet  Company's  large  and  powerful  Steam-Ships, 
fitted  with  electric  light,  and  with  superior  passenger  accommodation,  and  carrying 
goods,  horses,  carriages,  &c,,  at  moderate  rates,  leave  LONDON  and  DUBLIN  Twice  a 
Week  (unless  prevented  by  unforeseen  occurrences),  calling  both  ways  at 
PORTSMOUTH,  SOUTHAMPTON,  PLYMOUTH  AND  FALMOUTH 
SAILING  DAYS 
?.'^?iH)\i  ■  From  liONDON:    Sundays  and  Wednesdays. 
'  From  DUBLIN  :   IK^ednesdays  and  Saturdays. 

Passengers  from  London  can  embark  the  evening  before  sailing  day  without  extra 
charge,  but  must  be  on  board  not  later  than  10.0  p.m. 


FARES    FROM 

1st  CABIN. 

tod  CABIN. 

DECK. 

LONDON 

Single. 

Eetum. 

Single. 

Return. 

Single.     1    Return. 

s.     d. 

s.     d. 

s.    d. 

s.    d. 

s.    d. 

s.    d. 

To  Portsmouth 

10    6 

16     6 

6    6 

10    0 

4     0 

6    0 

,,   Southampton 
„   Plymouth     . 

11     0 

17     0 

7    0 

10    6 

4     6 

6    6 

15     0 

24    0 

11    0 

17    6 

7    0 

11     0 

„    Falmouth      . 

20    0 

32    0 

15    0 

24    0 

10    0 

15     0 

„   Dublin      .     . 

25    0 

88     6 

17    6 

27    0 

11    0 

17    0 

Children  from  3  to  12  years  of  age  half  fare.  Return  Tickets  are  available  for  three 
months,  and  passengers  are  allowed  to  break  the  journey  at  intermediate  ports.  Pro- 
visions are  supplied  on  board  at  moderate  rates.  Private  cabins  can  be  reserved  on 
payment  of  extra  charge,  on  early  application  being  made  for  same. 

London  Offices:— 19  Leadenhall  Street,  E.C.  JAMBS  HARTLEY  &  Co.,  Agents. 
Berth :  North  Quay,  Eastern  Basin,  London  Dock,  near  the  Shadwell  Stations,  Great 
Eastern  and  Metropolitan  Railways.  Chief  Offices,  Dublin  ;  3  North  Wall.  Telegraphic 
address ;  Awe,  Dublin.  A.  W.  EGAN,  Secretary. 


STBAMBRS. 


51 


DELIGHTFUL  STEAMER  TRIPS  THROUGH 
90  MILES  OF  THAMES  SCENERY. 


SALOON  STEAMERS  run  daily  between  OXFORD,  HENLEY,  and 
KINGSTON,  from  12th  May  to  4th  October  1902. 

DOWN  TRIP. 


Oxford,  depart     .        .  9.30  a.m.  2.1.')  p.m. 

Wallingford,  arrive  about    1.40  p.m.  7.0: 

,,          depart     ,,  2.40  9.0   a.m. 

Henley,  arrive  about  .  7.0  1.30  p.m. 

depart     ,,  .9.50  a.m.  2.40 

Windsor,  arrive  about  .    1.45  p.m.  7.15 

depart     ,,  .    2.40  9.15  a.m. 

Kingston,  arrive    ,,  .    7.10  1.30  p.m. 


Kingston,  depart 
Windsor,  arrive  about 

„  depart    „ 

Henley,  arrive       „    . 
depart      ,,     . 
Wallingford,  arrive  about 

depart     ,, 
Oxford,  arrive  about  . 


9.0  a.m. 

2.30  p.m. 

1.40  p.m. 

7.15 

2.40 

9.15  a.m. 

7.15 

1.40  p.m. 

9.0   a.m. 

2.40 

1.40  p.m. 

7.15 

2.40 

9.0   a.m. 

7.10 

1.15  p.m. 

The  through  journey  occupies  two  days  each  way,  but  passengers  can  join  or  leave 
the  boat  at  any  of  the  locks,  or  regular  stopping.places.  Circular  Tickets  for  Combined 
Railway  and  Steamer  Trips  are  issued  at  most  of  the  principal  G.W.R.  Stations, 
and  at  Waterloo,  Richmond,  and  King.ston  Stations,  L.  &  S.W.R.  Time  Table  giving 
full  jjarticulars  of  arrangements,  fares,  etc.,  post  free.  Id. 

Eowing  Boats  of  all  kinds  for  Excursions  down  the  River 
at  Charges  which  include  Cartage  back  to  Oxford. 

Full  Particulars  on  application. 

Steam  and  Electric  Launches  for  Hire  by  the  day  or 
Week,  and  also  for  the  Trip. 

Boats  of  every  description,  Canoes,  Punts,  etc.,  built  to  Order. 

A  large  selection,  both  New  and  Second-hand,  kept  in  readiness  for  Sale  or  Hire, 

Illustrated  Price  Lists  may  be  had  on  application. 

House  Boats  for  Sale  or  Hire,  and  also  built  to  Order. 

SALTER     BROTHERS, 

Boat  Butl^ers, 
POLLY  BRIDGE,   OXFORD, 


98  STEAMERS. 

M.  LANGLANDS  &  SODS'  Passenger  and  Cargo  Steamers. 

"PRINCESS  MAUD."  1466  tons.    Number  of  Berths  In  Staterooms  126. 

"PRINCESS  VICTORIA."     1249      ,,  „  ,,  126. 

"PRINCESS  BEATRICE."     1146      ,,  ,,  ,,  104. 

"PRINCESS  LOUISE."  932      „  „  „  50. 

All  having  Cabins  amidships,  Electric  Light,  Hot  and  Cold  Water  Baths,  etc.,  etc. 
Besides  the  above  there  are  others  of  smaller  tonnage. 

Services— GLASGOW,  GREENOCK,  &  LIVERPOOL. 

About  four  times  a  fortnight  from  each  end,  for  Dates  and  Huurs  see  Bills  and 
Liverpool  or  Glasgow  Daily  Newspapers.  Fares— Cabin,  single,  lis.  ;  return  (available 
for  2  months),  16s.  6d.  Special  Returns  (available  for  10  days),  14s.  Steerage,  single, 
5s.  6d. ;  return,  8s.  3d. 

LIVERPOOL  &  NORTH  OF  SCOTLAND. 

Departures  every  week— Calls  are  made  at  Oban,  Kyle,  Stornoway,  Sthomnesb, 
Aberdeen,  LErm  (for  Edinburgh),  and  Dundee.  Returning  to  Liverpool  by  same 
route.  The  steamers  sail  among  the  islands  of  the  West  Highlands,  and  the  scenery 
passed  en  route  is  therefore  some  of  the  finest  in  Scotland. 

ROUND    GREAT    BRITAIN  (Without  change  Of  steamer). 

This  tour  is  run  fortnightly  and  occupies  12  days ;  steamers  start  from  Liverpool 
and  proceed  north  through  the  Western  Isles,  and  call  at  Stromness,  Aberdeen, 
Newcastle,  Hull,  Southampton,  Plymouth,  etc.,  etc.,  then  up  to  Liverpool. 

Full  particulars  on  application  to— 

{10  Rumford  Place,  Liverpool. 
14  Cross  Street,  Manchester. 
80  Constitution  Street,  Leith. 
45  Hope  Street,  Glasgow. 

LEITH  AND  LONDON. 

THE  LONDON  &  EDINBURGH 
SHIPPING  COMPANY'S  First-Class 
Steamships,  FINGAL,  lONA,  MALYINA, 
MARMION  (all  lighted  by  Electricity),  or 
other  of  the  Company's  Vessels,  are  intended  to  Sail  (until  further  notice) 
from  VICTORIA  DOCK,  LEITH,  every  Wednesday,  Friday,  and 
Saturday,  and  from  HERMITAGE  STEAM  WHARF,  WAPPING,  E. 
every  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  and  Saturday. 

Fares. — First  Cabin,  including  Steward's  Fee,  22s. ;  Second  Cabin,  16s. ;  Deck 
(Soldiers  and  Sailors  only),  10s.  Return  Tickets,  available  for  12  months  (including 
Steward's  Fee  both  ways)— First  Cabin,  34s.  ;  Second  Cabin,  24s.  6d. 

SS'  Provisions,  &c. ,  may  he  had  from  the  Steward  on  moderate  terms. 
Not  responsible  for  Passengers'  Luggage,  unless  booked  and  paid  for. 

CHEAP  CIRCnLAR  TOUES  round  the  Laud's  Eud  iu  connection  with  Clyde  Shipping  Company's 
Steamers— Fare,  First  Cabin,  47s.  6d.  By  Bristol  Channel,  in  connection  with  Messrs.  Sloan  &  Co.'s 
Steamers — Fare,  1st  Cabin,  35s.  (Railway  Fares  extra.)  Round  the  North  of  Scotland  in  connection 
with  Messrs.  Langlands  &  Sons'  Steamers  to  Liverpool— Fare,  First  Cabin,  London  to  Liverpool,  608.  By 
British  and  Irish  Steam  Packet  Company's  Steamer  to  Dublin,  thence  via  Silloth  to  Edinburgh, 
returning  by  this  Company's  Steamer  to  London— Fares  for  the  Round,  .Saloon  and  First  Class  Rail, 
52s.  ;  Saloon  and  Third  Class  Rail,  47s.  By  North  of  Scotland  Steamers  to  Orkney  and  Shetland- 
Return  Fares  to  Kirkwall  and  Stromness,  First  Class,  60s.  ;  Second  Class,  33s.  To  Lerwick  and  Scallo- 
way, First  Class,  67s.  6d.  ;  Second  Class,  35s. 

Apply  in  London  to  Londok  &  EDiNBanoH  Shifping  Company,  Hermitage  Steam  Wharf,  'Wapping ; 
M'DouGAiL  &  BoNTHBOK,  72  Mark  Lane,  B.C. ;  Geor«k  Mutch,  102  Queen  Victoria  Street,  B.C. ; 
G.  W.  Wheatley  &  Co.,  23  Regent  Street  Edinburgh— Cowan  &  Co.,  14  North  Bridge.  Glasgow- 
Cow  an  &  Co.,  23  St.  Vincent  Place.    Greenock— D.  Maodougall,  1  Cross  Shore  Street;  and  to 

THOHAS  AITKBN,  8  &  9  Cohmep.ciai.  Stbkkt,  Leith. 


STEAMERS.  99 

ENGLAND  AND  NORTH  OF  IRELAND. 

The  best  route  is  by  the  Direct  Service  of  Express  Steamers. 

"MAGIC"  (Twin  Screw),  "OPTIC,"  "COMIC"  (Twin  Screw). 
"CALORIC,"  "MYSTIC"  (Twin  Screw),  "LOGIC"  (Twin  Screw),  &c. 

Via  lilYERPOOIi  and  BELFAST. 

Open  Sea  Passage  about  Six  Hours. 

The  Steamers  of  the  Belfast  Steamship  Company  are  lighted  by  Electricity,  aud  are 
fitted  with  every  modern  improvement  for  the  comfort  of  Passengers.  The  Cabins  are 
amidships,  the  Saloon  being  on  deck,  with  a  spacious  Promenade  above. 

From  Liverpool  (Prince's  Landing  Stage  or  Prince's  Dock)  for  Belfast 
— Daily  (Sundays  excepted)  at  10.30  p.m. 

From  Belfast  (Donegal  Quay)  for  Liverpool — Daily  (Sundays  excepted) 
at  8  p.m.  ;  Saturdays  at  10.30  p.m. 

Omnibuses  await  the  arrival  of  the  Steamer  at  Liverpool,  to  convey  Through 
Passengers  and  their  Luggage  to  the  Lime  Street  and  Central  Stations  FREE  of  charge. 
Omnibuses  also  leave  the  Lime  Street  and  Central  Stations  every  evening,  in  time  to 
convey  all  Through  Passengers  and  their  Luggage  from  all  Districts  to  the  Steamer 
P^REE  of  charge. 

Through  bookings  between  all  principal  English  Stations  and  Stations  in  the  North 
of  Ireland  at  fares  as  cheap  as  any  other  route. 

For  Fares,  Rates,  and  all  particulars  apply  to  H.  H.  Stevenson,  0  Brown  Street, 
Manchester ;  Bklfast  Steamship  Company,  Limited,  5  Chapel  Street,  Liverpool ; 
or  to  The  Head  Oflace,  Belfast  Steamship  Company,  Limited,  Belfast. 

Telegraphic  Address    " Basalt,  Belfast"  ;  "Afloat,  Liverpool." 

LONDON,  SCARBOROUGirA?D  MIDDLESBROUGH 

THE  Tees  Union  Shipping  Company's  (Limited)  New  Passenger  Steamer  "Claudia" 
(fitted  throughout  with  electric  light,  with  handsome  saloon  accommodation,  piano, 
smoke-room,  and  every  convenience  for  passengers)  leaves  Free  Trade  Wharf,  Ratcliff, 
London,  E.,  every  Saturday  evening  for  Scarborough  and  Middlesbrough.  Returning 
from  the  Company's  Wharf  Middlesbrough  to  Scarborough  and  London  every  Wednesday. 

The  s.s.  "  Dione,"  carrying  a  limited  number  of  passengers,  leaves  London  every 
Tuesday  for  Middlesbrough,  and  Middlesbrough  every  Saturday  for  London  (Weather, 
etc.,  permitting).  Fares  — Saloon,  lis.  6d. ;  Return,  17s.  6d. ;  Fore  Cabin,  7s.  6d. ; 
Return,  lis.  6d.    Returns  available  for  3  months. 

For  full  particulars  apply— London,  J.  Greig,  Free  Trade  Wharf;  Scarborough, 
Jno.  Stephenson  ;  or  to  the  Head  Office,  North  Street,  Middlesbrough. 

CHRISTOPHER  FORSTER,  Secretary. 

GLASGOW    AND   THE   HIGHLANDS. 

WEEKLY  CIRCULAR  TOUR. 
H^HB  Favourite  Steamer  DUNARA  CASTLE  sails  from  Glasgow  every  Thursay  at  2 
-*-  P.M.,  and  from  Greenock,  West  Quay,  at  7  p.m.,  for  Colonsay,  lona,  Bunessan,  Tyree, 
Barra,  Uist,  Skye,  and  Harris,  returning  to  Glasgow  on  Wednesdays.  Affords  to  Tourists 
the  opportunity  of  about  a  week's  comfortable  Sea  Voyage,  and  at  the  same  time  a 
Panoramic  View  of  the  magnificent  scenery  of  the  Western  Isles. 

Cabin  Fare,  £1 :15s.,  including  Meals,  £3  :5s. 
Extended  Tours  to  the  Island  of  St.  Kilda  on  special  dates  in  June,  July,  and 

August.    Ret\xrn  Cabin  Fare,  Including  Meals,  £4 :  4s. 
Berths  may  be  booked  at  the  London  Offices  of  the  Carron  Company,  87  Lower 
East  Smithfield,  E.G.,  and  73  Great  Tower  Street,  E.G. 

Time  Bills  (with  Maps)  and  Berths  secured  on  application  to 

MARTIN  ORMB,  20  Robertson  Street,  Glasgow. 


100  STEAMERS. 

CARRON     LINE. 

SCOTLAND  AND    LONDON. 

Four  Sailings  lYeekly. 

The  splendid  steamers  "Avon,"  "Grange,"  "Forth,"  and  "Thames"  (which 
have  been  specially  built  for  the  service,  and  are  all  lighted  by  electricity),  or  other 
steamers,  are  expected  to  sail,  unless  prevented  by  unforeseen  circumstances. 

From  Grangemouth  for  London  every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday. 
From  Bo'ness  for  London  every  Monday.  From  London  for  Grangemouth  every 
Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Saturday.  From  London  for  Bo'ness  every  Thursday. 
Trains  run  alongside  the  Steamers  at  Grangemouth. 

The  only  route  by  which  passengers  can  obtain  a  perfect  view  of  the  Forth  Bridge, 
tlie  steamers  of  this  Line  sailing  underneath. 

Fares:  Glasgovr  and  London.  Single.       Return. 
First  Cabin,  including  Ist  Class  Rail        .        .        .    26s.  39s. 

„  „         3rd        ,,  ...     24s.  35s. 

Second  Cabin      „         3rd        „  ...    17s.  6d.    26s.  6d. 

Soldiers  and  Sailors  on  Deck,  and  3rd  Glass  Rail    .    12s. 
Grangemouth  or  Bo'ness  and  I<ondon. 

First  Cabin         .       , 22s.  34s. 

Second  Cabin 16s.  248. 

Soldiers  and  Sailors  on  Deck 10s. 

Return  Tickets  available  for  Two  Months. 
Circular  Tours,  Glasgow  to  London,  returning  by  Clyde  Shipping  Co.'s  Steamers  ;  alsc 
to  Bristol,  Dublin,  Belfast,  and  Isle  of  Man,  etc.     Each  steamer  carries  a  Stewardess. 

For  Berths,  Guide-books  (free),  and  all  information  apply  in  Lohdon  at  Carron  and  London  an<i 
Continental  Wharves,  87-93  Lower  East  Smithfleld,  E. ;  City  Office,  73  Great  Tower  Street ;  in 
Glasgow,  at  Carron  Company's  Offices,  125  Buchanan  Street ;  in  Edinburgh,  to  T.  Cook  &  Soic,  { 
Princes  Street,  or  J.  &  H.  Lindsay,  18  South  St.  Andrew  Street ;  and  at  Carron  Company's  OflSces, 
Gbanoemouth. 


DUNDEE    AND    LONDON. 

THE  Dundee,  Perth,  and  London  Shipping  Company's  splendid  Steamship,* 
"DUNDEE,"  "PERTH,"  and  "LONDON,"  or  other  of  the  Company's  Vessels, 
will  sail  (weather,  casualties,  and  strikes  excepted)  every  Wednesday  and  Saturday  fron 
Dundee  Wharf,  Limehouse,  E.,  and  from  Dundee  every  Wednesday  and  Saturday. 

Fares. — First  Cabin,  including  Steward's  Fees,  22s.  6d. ;  Return  Tickets,  availablf 
for  Twelve  Months,  35s.  Second  Cabin,  15s.  ;  Return  Tickets,  22s.  6d.  Children,  3  U 
14,  half-fare.  Passengers  can  secure  berths  in  London  at  G.  W.  Wheatley  &  Co.';- 
Office,  23  Regent  Street,  W. ;  Company's  City  Office,  75  Great  Tower  Street ;  and  or 
application  to  James  Mitchell,  Dundee  Wharf,  Three  Colt  Street,  Limehouse,  E. 

CIRGUIiAR    TOURS. 

Dundee,  London,  and  Glasgow.— By  this  Company's  Steamers  between  Dundee  anc 
London,  and  by  Clyde  Shipping  Company's  Steamers  between  London  and  Glasgow, 
calling  at  several  intermediate  English  and  Irish  ports.  Fare,  First  Cabin,  47s.  6d, 
The  railway  fare  between- Glasgow  and  Dundee  (First  Class,  14s.  ;  Tliird  Class,  6s.  lO^d. 
is  not  included,  passengers  being  thus  at  liberty  to  travel  through  Scotland  by  anj 
route  they  may  choose.     This  route  may  be  reversed. 

Dundee,  London,  and  Grangemouth.— Return  Tickets  are  available  by  the  Carroi 
Company's  Steamers,  London  to  Grangemouth,  tlience  by  rail  to  Dundee,  or  vice  versa 
at  the  following  fares  : — First  Cabin  and  First  Class  Rail,  45s,  ;  Second  Cabin  anc 
Third  Class  Rail,  27s.  6d. 

Dundee,  Bristol,  and  Glasgow.— By  this  Company's  Steamers  between  Dundee  auc 
London,  and  by  Messrs.  William  Sloan  &  Co.'s  Steamers  between  Bristol  and  Glasgow 
calling  at  several  intermediate  ports.  Fare,  First  Cabin,  37s.  6d.,  exclusive  of  all  Fare.' 
for  Rail  parts  of  the  journey,  which  are  London  and  Bristol  (First  Class,  20s.  lOd. 
Third  Class,  9s.  lO^d.);  Glasgow  and  Dundee  (First  Class,  14s. ;  Third  Class,  6s.  lO^d.) 
This  route  may  be  reversed. 

Further  particulars  can  be  obtained  at  the  Company's  Office,  5  Shore  Terrace. 

JAMES  W.  KIDD,  Manager. 


STEAMERS.  ]01 

ABERDEEN    AND    LONDON. 

THE  ABERDEEN  STEAM  NAVIGATION  GO.'S  STEAMSHIPS 

HOGARTH,  CITY  OF  LONDON,  or  CITY  OF  ABERDEEN, 

will  be  despatched  (weather,  etc.,  permitting)— 

Prom  ABERDEEN,  87  Waterloo  Quay,  every  Wednesday  and  Saturday. 

From  LONDON,  Aberdeen  Wharf,  Limehouse,  every  Wednesday  and  Saturday. 

The  Steamers  are  fitted  up  in  First-Class  style— Ladies'  Saloon,  and  Smoking  Room 

an  Deck— Electric  Light  throughout— Time  on  Passage  36  hours. 

The  Company's  steam  tender  ♦  Ich  Diew  '  attends  the  Steamers  on  their  arrival  in  London 
tor  the  purpose  of  conveying  Passengers  to  the  Temple  Pier,  Thames  Embankment ; 
jhe  also  leaves  that  Pier  with  Passengers  for  the  Steamers  one  hour  before  the  adver- 
tised time  of  sailing  from  Limehouse. 

Paees — Private  CabiTis  accommodating  four  passengers    ....        £6. 
Private  Cabins,  if  occupied  by  fewer  than  four  passengers         .        £5. 
Single  Tickets — 1st  Cabin,  30s. ;  2nd  Cabin,  15s. ;  Children  under  14  years,  15s.  and  lOs. 
Return  Ticfcete- available  for  six  months — 45s.  and  258. ;  Children,  25s.  and  15s, 

A  Stewardess  carried  in  both  First  and  Second  Cabins. 

Berths  secured  and  further  information  obtained  on  application  to  Georgb 
Mutch,  Agent,  The  Aberdeen  Steam  Navigation  Co.'s  Wharf,  Limehouse;  and 
it  102  Queen  Victoria  Street,  B.C.,  London ;  or  to 

WILLIAM  A.  MALCOLM, 
Manager,  Aberdeen. 


SCOTLAND   AND   IRELAND. 

ROYAL  MAIL  LINE. 

QUICKEST,  Clieapest,  and  Best  Route  between  all  parts  of  Scotland 
and  the  North  of  Ireland. 

Mail  Service  twice  every  evening  (Sundays  excepted)  to  and  from 
ill  parts  of  Ireland  via  Belfast ;  and  all  parts  of  Scotland,  via  Glasgow, 
na  Greenock,  and  via  Ardrossan. 


DAYLIGHT  SERVICE  DURING  SUMMER  SEASON. 

Glasgow  to  Belfast  and  back  same  day,  by  "Adder"  from  Ardrossan. 
\lso  Steamers  between — 

Glasgow  and  Manchester,  three  times  weekly. 

Glasgow  and  Liverpool  (calling  at  Greenock).  Fast  and  commodious 
lew  steamers  "Spaniel  "and  "Pointer."  Cheap  Excursion  Fares.  Five 
lailings  in  the  fortnight  during  the  winter  months,  and  three  times  weekly 
luring  the  summer  season.     See  newspaper  advertisements. 

Glasgow  and  Londonderry  (calling  at  Greenock).     Twice  weekly. 

For  full  details  see  Advertisements  and  Sailing  Bills,  or  apply  to 

G.    &    J.    BURNS, 

Glasgow,  Belfast,  Londonderry,  Manchester,  and  Liverpool. 


102  *  STEAMERS. 


■^^LOCH-LOMOND.  ^^^^ 

^'    ^*  "QUEEN  OF  SCOTTISH  LAKES." 


The  Dumbarton  and  Balloch  Joint  Line  Committee's  First- 
Class  Saloon  Steamers  sail  from  Balloch  Pier,  calling  fre- 
quently at  all  Loch-Lomond  Piers,  also  in  connection  with 
Trossaehs  Tours,  Loch  -  Lomond  and  Loch  -  Long  Tours, 
Trossaehs  and  Aberfoyle  Tours,  Trossaehs  and  Callander 
Tours,  &c.  &e. 

The  most  direct  and  picturesque  route  to  Oban  and  Fort- 
William,  via  Loch  Lomond,  Ardlui,  and  Crianlarich. 

For  Train  and  Steamboat  hours  see  North  British  and 
Caledonian  Eailway  Time  Tables ;  apply  to  both  Companies' 
Stationmasters,  or  to  Wm.  J.  Fraser,  Secretary  and  Manager, 
21  Hope  Street,  Glasgow. 

INTERESTING  AND  POPULAR 

FLEASTJEE  EXCURSIONS 

BY  COACH,  STEAMER,  &  TRAIN, 

During  June^  July,  August,  cmd  September  1902. 

OBAN  to  OBAN  and  LOOHAWB  to  LOOHAWB. 

Via  Pass  of  Melfort,  Lochawe,  and  Pass  of  Brander, 

at  the  base  of  Ben  Cruachan. 

BY  Coach  leaving  M'Gregor's  Coach  Office  on  Mondays,  Wednesdays, 
and  Fridays  at  9.45  a.m.  by  way  of  Lochfeochan,  Pass  of  Melfort, 
Loch  Craignish,  Carnasary  Castle,  and  Ford,  where  Passengers  join  the 
Steamer  "Countess  of  Breadalbane"  for  Lochawe  Station;  thence  pei 
Train  due  to  arrive  in  Oban  at  or  about  6.30  p.m.  ;  and  on  Tuesdays, 
Thursdays,  and  Saturdays  by  Train  leaving  Oban  about  9.40  a.m.  foi 
Lochawe  Station,  thence  per  Steamer  **  Countess  of  Breadalbane  "  to  Fordj 
and  from  Ford  by  Coach  due  to  reach  Oban  about  6.30  p.m. 

Fares/or  the  Round: — First  Class,  15s.  6d.  ;  Third  Class,  14s.     Coach 
driver'*  and  Guard's  Fees  not  included. 

Passengers  Booked  at  Lochawe  Hotel,  and  at  Coach  Office  and 
Railway  Station,  Oban. 

-  SCENERY   SURPASSING   GRAND. 


STEAMERS.  103 

SUMMER  TRIPS  ROUND  SCOTLAND 

VIA  WEST  HIG-HLANDS. 

THE  well-known  Steamers  "Princess  Maud,"  "Princess  Victoria," 
"Princess  Beatrice,"  "Princess  Ena,"  "Princess  Louise,"  and 
"Princess  Irene,"  leave  Liverpool  twice  a  week  ma  Oban,  and  West  and 
Northern  Highlands  of  Scotland,  for  Aberdeen,  Leith,  and  Dundee,  call- 
ing occasionally  at  Kyleakin,  Broadford,  Gairloch,  Lochinver,  Stornoway, 
Stromness,  Loch  Eriboll,  and  Inverness.  Regular  sailings  between  Liver- 
pool and  Glasgow,  also  Manchester  and  Glasgow.  Full  particulars  from 
M.  LANGLANDS  &  SONS,   10  Rumford  Place,  Liverpool. 

LEITH  to  ABERDEEN,  BUCKIE,  LOSSIEMOUTH  (Mlgin),  BURGHEAD  (for 
Forres),  CROMARTY,  INYERGORDON  (for  Strathpeffer),  and  INVERNESS. 

S.S.  EARNHOLM  leaves  Leith  every  Monday,  and  Aberdeen  every  Tuesday,  for 
Buckie,  Lossiemouth,  Cromarty,  Invergorden,  and  Inverness :  leaves  Inverness 
every  Thursday  for  Cromarty,  Invergorden,  Aberdeen,  and  Leith.  S.S.  JAMES 
HALL  leaves  Leith  every  Tlmrsday  (and  every  Tuesday  to  Aberdeen  only),  and 
Aberdeen  every  Friday  for  Burghead,  Cromarty,  Invergordon,  and  Inverness  : 
leaves  Inverness  every  Monday  for  Cromarty,  Invergordon,  Aberdeen,  and  Leith. 
S.S.  SILVER  CITY  leaves  Leith  for  Aberdeen  every  Saturday.  S.S.  EARNHOLM. 
or  S.S.  JAMES  HALL  leaves  Aberdeen  for  Leith  every  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  and 
Friday.     FARES  MODERATE. 

For  further  particulars  apply  to  the  Manager  of  The  Aberdeen,  Leith,  and  Moray 
Forth  Steam  Shipping  Co.,  Limited,  JAMES  CROMBIE,  Trinity  Buildings,  Aberdeen, 
or  to  M.  LANGLANDS  &  SONS,  80  Constitution  Street,  Leith. 

GLASGOW  &  THE  WEST  highlands; 

WEEKLY   CIRCULAR    TOURS    BY   THE 
Splendid  new  Steamer.  H  IJ'RR'PTri'RQ"        Superior  Accommodation. 

Lighted  by  Electricity.  n.JZ,  JDr\.ll-f  iiO  Bathroom,  etc. 

From  GLASGOW  at  2  p.m.       TrVTTPV    MOl^'n  A  V      From  GREENOCK  at  6.15  p.m. 
Berth  42,  North  Side.  J^  ^  ^-^  ^     lViUi>  UJ\.  1  Customhouse  Quay. 

For  Islay,  Colonsay,  Oban,  Mull,  Coll,  Tiree,  Rum,  West  of  Skye,  North  and 
South  Uist,  Barra,  etc.,  aft'ords  the  Tourist  a  splendid  opportunity  of  viewing  the 
rnagnidcent  scenerv  of  the  West  of  Skye  and  the  Outer  Islands. 

Cabin  for  the  Round,  from  35s. ;  Board  included,  from  65g. 

ISLAND  OF  ST.  BlILDA.— During  the  Season  extended  trips  are  made  to  this  most 

interesting  and  romantic  Island,  when  passengers  are  given  facilities  (W.P.)  for  landing. 

Cabin  on  St.  Kilda  Trips,  from  50s. ;  Board  included,  from  84s. 

Time  Billx,  Maps  of  Route,  Cabin  Plans,  and  Berths  secured  at 

JOHN  M'CALLUM  &  CO.,  10  Ann  St.,  City,  Glasgow. 

GALWAY  BAY  STEAMBOAT  CO.,  LIMITED. 

THE  cheapest,  shortest,  and  most  enjoyable  route  for  tourists  from  England,  Dublin, 
and  the  North  of  Ireland,  to  the  beautiful  scenery  on  the  West  Coast  of  Ireland, 
is  by  the  Midland  Great  Western  Railway,  Dublin  to  Galway ;  and  thence  per  new 
steamer  "Duras,"  to  the  Islands  of  Aran,  every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday. 

For  Ballyvaughan  in  connection  with  the  far-famed  Spa,  Lisdoonvama,  every 
Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  during  summer. 

These  sailings  are  subject  to  alteration.    For  correct  dates  see  monthly  Time  Tables. 

For  further  particulars  apply  to  Manager,  Midland  Great  Western  Railway,  Broad* 
stone,  Dublin  ;  or  to  James  A.  Grant,  Secretary,  19  Eyre  Square,  Galway 


104 


STEAMERS. 


BrlM  &  Irish  Steam  Packet  Co.,  Ltd. 


GRAND     HOLIDAY    SEA    TR 

g^   (Magnificent  Coast  Scenery) 

BETWEEN 


PS 


LONDON    AND    DUBLIN 

AND   THE 

SOUTH    OF    ENGLAND. 

The  best  route  for  Cornwall,  Devon,  Wilts,  Sussex,  Kent,  Essex,  Hants,  and  Surrey 
and  for  the  SOILLY  ISLANDS,  the  Isle  of  WigM,  the  Channel  Islands  and  France. 

THE  COMPANY'S   LARGE   AND   POWERFUL  STEAM-SHIPS 

Fitted  with  electric  light,  and  with  superior  accommodation  for  Passengers,  leave 
London  and  Dublin  twice  a  week,  calling  both  ways  at  Portsmouth,  Southampton, 
Plymouth,  and  Falmouth. 

FLEET: 
Lady  Roberts  .  .  .  1462  Tons. 

Lady  Wolseley  ....    1450  Tons  I  Lady  Martin 1352  Tons 

Lady  Hudson-Kinahan    .    1375    „      |  Lady  Olive 1103    ,, 

SAILING  \  From  London— Sundays  and  Wednesdays. 
DAYS    /  From  Dublin— Wednesdays  and  Saturdays. 


PAsaKBTGEK  Fares  (Stewauds'  Fkes 
Included)  between 


LONDON  and  PORTSMOUTH . 
„  SOUTHAMPTON 

PLYMOUTH  . 
„  FALMOUTH       . 

DUBLIN     . 


Ist  Cabin. 
Single,  j  Return. 


2nd  Cabin. 
Single.  I  Return. 


S.  d.  I  S. 

10  6  I  16 

11  0  I  17 
15  0  i  24 
20  0  I  32 
25  0  I  38 


Deck. 
Single.  I  Return. 


Passengers  may  contract  for  Provisions  during  the  voyage  at  prices  as  published  in 
the  Company's  Sailing  Bills.  Circular  Tours  from  South  of  England  Ports  to  Conne- 
mara  and  West  of  Ireland,  in  connection  with  Midland  Great  Western  Railway  of 
Ireland,  via  Clifden,  Westport,  Letterfrack,  and  Leenane,  from  1st  June  to  30th 
September,  Splendid  Scenery.  Excellent  Salmon  and  Trout  Fishing.  Tickets  avail- 
able for  two  months, 

Scilly  Islands.— Passengers  for  these  charming  Islands  land  at  Falmouth  and  travel 
via  Penzance. 

Children  from  3  to  12  years  old,  half  fare.  Return  Tickets  are  available  for  three 
months,  and  Passengers  are  allowed  to  break  the  journey  at  intermediate  ports.  Pro 
visions  supplied  on  board  at  moderate  rates. 

Private  Cabins  can  be  reserved  on  payment  of  extra  charge,  on  early  application 
being  made  for  same. 

Passengers  from  London  can  embark  the  evening  before  sailing  day  without  extra 
charge,  but  must  be  on  board  not  later  than  10  p.m. 

Illustrated  Handbook  free  by  post  on  application. 

Special  Cheap  Excursion  Tickets,  1st  and  2nd  Cabin,  available  for  16  days,  are 
issued  between  any  two  of  the  following  ports  :— Portsmouth,  Southampton,  Plymouth, 
Falmouth,  or  Dublin,  at  a  single  fare  and  a  quarter. 

Through  Bookings  to  the  Channel  Islands  and  France  from  Dublin. 

Full  information  as  to  Sailings,  etc,  can  be  obtained  from  James  Hartley  &  Co., 
19  Leadenhall  Street,  London,  E.C.,  and  North  Quay,  Eastern  Basin,  London  Docks, 
Shad  well,  E.  (where  the  vessels  lie),  or  from  any  of  the  following  Agents  :  R.  Clark  & 
Son,  or  H.  J.  Waring  &  Co.,  Millbay  Pier,  Plymouth ;  W.  &  E.  C.  Carne,  Market  Street, 
Falmouth ;  Le  Peuvre  &  Son,  8  Gloucester  Square,  Southampton  :  J.  M.  Harris,  10 
Broad  Street,  Portsmouth ;  and  Thos  Cook  &  Son,  Dublin  and  London ;  Carolin 
&  BoAN,  30  Eden  Quay,  Dublin,  Chief  Offices— 3  North  Wall,  Dublin.  Telegraphic 
4.ddres?e§—"4.\yE,"  Dublin;  "BifERAi^D,"  Lopdoij.  A.  W.  EG Al!f,  Secretary, 


STEAMERS.  105 

GiTY  OF  DUBLIN  STEAM  PACKET 
COMPANY 

ROYAL    MAIL     ROUTE  q      j.  ^^  ^  1 1  .^,  J^ 

BETWEEN 

ENGLAND  &  IRELAND 

TWICE  EACH  WAY  DAILY 

via  HOLYHEAD  &  KINGSTOWN 


Sea  Passage — 2  Hours  45  Minutes 

First,  Second,  and  Third  Class  Rail  and  Saloon 
and  Second  Class  Steamer 


Through  Fares  between  English  and  Irish  Stations  and  Through 
Communication  between  Kingstown  and  the  interior  of  Ireland 


LIVERPOOL  ac  DUBLIN 

DAILY 


Cabin,  Singk,  13s.  6cl. ;  Return,  21s.  (available  for  2  months) 
Deck,      Do.     4s.  ;  Do.      6s.  6cl.  Do. 


Cabin  Excursion  Tickets  available  for  i6  days  are  issued 
jvery  Friday  and  Saturday  at  Single  Fares  for  the  Double 
lourney.     Deck,  5s. ^______ 

Through  Fares  with  Great  Southern  and  Western  and 
Midland  Great  Western  Railway  Stations 

^or  further  particulars  apply  to — 

15    EDEN    QUAY,  DUBLIN 

ALFRED  J.  CALLAGHAN, 

Secretary. 


106  ^  STEAMERS. 

mi     «°"''^^™;'«-  lOYTi-a 

Scotland 

WITH 

Holland,  Belgium, tt  North  of  France. 

REGULAR  WEEKLY  SAILINGS 

FROM 

ALBERT  DOCK,  LEITH  (Edinburgh), 

To  ROTTERDAM,  AMSTERDAM,  HARLINGEN.     ANTWERP,  GHENT 
TERNEUZEN,  DUNKIRK,  and  CALAIS. 

Also  DUNDEE  and  ROTTERDAM.  j     jg©^ 

FIRST-CLASS  FAST  STEAMERS.     Electric  Light.     ' 

FARES— CABIN,  25s.  Single ;  40s.  Return.     Steerage  10s. 

ViOTUALLiNQ  ExTRA  at  Moderate  Rates. 
For  Full  Information  apply  to 

GEORGE  GIBSON  &  CO.,  Leith,  Glasgow,  or  Dundee.  ," 

WEST  HARTLEPOOL  AND  HAMBURG. 

The  Fine  Swift  Steamers,  "KAISER,"  "SPRITE,"  and  other  Steamers. 
Leave  WEST  HARTLEPOOL  every  Wednesday  and  Satur- 
day ;  returning  from  HAMBURG  every  Tuesday  and  Friday 
(weather  and.  casualties  excepted).  These  Steamers  are  fitted  with  every 
Comfort  for  Passengers^  and  carry  Steward  and  Stewardess.  First 
Cabin— Single  Pare,  30s.;  Return,  35s.,  May  1st  to  Oct. 
31st;  Nov.  1st  to  April  30th,  30s.  and  45s. 

For  further  information  apply  to  The  West  Hartlepool  Steam 
Navigation  Company,  Limited,  West  Hartlepool. 

THE  ABERDEEN  LINE  OF  DIRECT   STEAMERS. 

LONDON   tcTPORT    NATAL. 

DELAGOA    BAY,    INHAMBANE,    BEIRA,    CHINDE, 
QUILIMANE,   AND    EAST    AFRICAN    PORTS. 

S.S.  MATABELE      I       S.S.  IFAFA  I     S.S.  INCHANGA    l      S.S.  INSIZWA 

S.S.  INANDA  S.S.  ILLOVO        j     S.S.  INYATI  |      S.S.  INKOSI 

S.S.  INDUNA  I       S.S.  INYONI  S.S.  INGELI  ! 

FORTNIGHTLY  SAILINGS  from  London,  calling  at  Portland,  and  TenerifTe 

and  Las  Palmas  alternatively. 
These  aplendid  Steamers  have  very  fine  acoommodatioii  for  1st  and  2nd  Class  Passengers,  and  are  well 
found  in  every  respect.  The  Cabins  are  unusually  spacious,  and  elegantly  fitted  up  with  all  requisites, 
and  are  lit  throughout  with  Electric  Light.  Surgeon  and  Stewardess  carried.  Passengers  are  specially 
invited  to  inspect  the  accommodation  of  these  vessels.  For  Freight  or  Passage  apply  to  J.  T.  RENNIE, 
SON,  &  CO.,  4  East  India  Avenue,  E.G. ;  SEWELL  &  CROWTHER,  Cockspur  Street,  S.W.  ;  J.  T. 
BBNNIB  &  SON,  48  Marischal  Street.  Aberdeen ;  J.  T.  RENNIE  &  SONS,  Durban. 


STEAMERS. 


107 


"ANCHOR"    LINE 
Services. 


GLASGOW  &  NEW  YORK, 

Via  Londonderry 
(Moville)— 
Weekly. 


^'°  v*^^:..^<^' 


,0.^^-''' 


tN^^ 


«.<^' 


^\«-* 


y«.?.tr     ^w&  %  sv<^*  ^,^>>^ Mediterranean 

v*<>^°  J^>and  NEW  YORK, 

''  Calling  at  Marseilles,  Genoa, 

Leghorn,  Naples,  Messina,  Palermo,  Gibraltar, 
and  other  Ports.     Fortnightly  sailings  each  way. 

For  terms  of  Freight,  Passage,  or  other  information,  apply  to 

ANCHOR  LINE  (Henderson  Brothers)  LIMITED, 

GLASGOW,    LIVERPOOL,    LONDON,    MANCHESTER,    DUNDEfl, 
LONDONDERRY.     GIBRALTAR, 


108 


8TEAMERP. 


LAMPORT  &  HOLT  LINE. 

■OIRST-CLASS  CARGO  STEAMERS,  with  comfortable  accommodation  for  a  limited 
■*-  number  of  SALOON  PASSENGERS,  are  despatched  at  regular  and  frequent 
intervals  from 

LIVERPOOL,  LONDON,  GLASGOW,  MANCHESTER,  AND  ANTWERP, 


DIRECT  TO 


BRAZIL,    RIVER    PLATE, 


ICA. 


AJO 


WEST  COAST  OF  SOUTH  AMERI 

Also  Superior  Passeiiger  Steamers  from 

NEW  YORK  °Vl^cif5?o??Si°^  FOR  BRAZIL  k  RIVER  PLATE. 

Fitted  with  Electric  Light,  Refrigerator,  and  all  modern  comforts. 

Children  under  Twelve  Years  of  age  are  carried  at  a  reduced  rate.  Families  and 
Servants  taken  by  special  agreement. 

Arrangement  can  be  made  on  advantageous  terms,  with  the  option  to  Passengers  of 
breaking  the  journey  at  any  intermediate  Port,  and  of  proceeding  to  their  destination 
by  one  of  the  Company's  succeeding  Steamers.  Also  of  making  the  round  voyage  by 
way  of  New  York. 

Apply,  in  GLASGOW,  to  P.  Henderson  &  Co.,  15  St.  Vincent  Place,  or  to  Bell 
Brothers  &  M'Lelland,  135  Buchanan  Street;  iu  BIRMINGHAM,  to  T.  Heymann, 
5  Victoria  Square  ;  in  ANTWERP,  to  Kennedy,  Hunter,  &  Co. ;  in  PARIS,  to  J.  M. 
CuRRiE,  36  Rue  d'Hauteville  ;  in  NEW  YORK,  to  Busk  &  Jevons  ;  or  to  Lamport  & 
Holt,  21  Water  Street,  LIVERPOOL ;  or  York  Buildings,  York  Street,  MANCHESTER  ; 
OT  36  Lime  Street,  LONDON,  E.G. 

DOMINION    LINE. 

ROYAL  AND  UNITED  STATES  MAIL  STEAMERS. 


REGULAR  SAILINGS 
BETWEEN 

LIVERPOOL  &   BOSTON 

(VIA  QUEENSTOWN). 

LIVERPOOL,  QUEBEC,  &  MONTREAL -* 
(DIRECT).  -f 

LIVERPOOL  &  PORTLAND,  Me. 

(DIRECT). 

GENOA,    NAPLES, 
GIBRALTAR  and   BOSTON. 

ALSOBETWEEN 

ALEXANDRIA,    EGYPT, 
and   BOSTON. 

FARES. 

Saloon,  Second  Saloon,  and  Tliird  Class 
at  lowest  rates. 


For    further    particulars    apply   to    RICHARDS,    MILLS,    &   CO., 
Managers,  24  James  Street,  Liverpool,  or  to  any  of  their  local  Agents. 


STEAMERS,  ETC. 


109 


UNITED  STEAMSHIP  CO.  OF  COPENHAGEN. 

Quick   Route  to  Copenhagen. 

And  all  Parts  of  DENMARK,  NORWAY,  and  SWEDEN. 

By  REGULAR  STEAMERS  in  coiuiectiou  with  the  Great  Eastern  Railway 
Gonipauy,  via  Harwich  (Parkestnn  Quay)  and  Esbjerg. 
The  Fine  Steamers  "J.  C.  LAGOUR,"  2000  Tons,  3600  H.P.  indicated,  and  "N.  J. 
FJORD,"  1500  Tons,  2000  H.P.  indicated,  or  other  of  the  Company's  Fine  Steamers, 
will  run  as  under,  weatlier  and  other  circumstances  permitting— 
(Sea  Yoyage  about  23  Hours.) 
PARKESTON  QUAY  for  ESBJERG,  ESBJERG  for  PARKESTON  QUAY. 

Every  Monday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday  Every  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  and  Satur- 

about  9  45  P.M.  after  arrival  of  Train  ;  any.  Steamers  leave  after  arrival  of  the 
leaving  Liverpool  Street  Station  at  7.15  ,  n  k  .  ^,  <^..oj..  f..^„,  r'^rv^r.v.o^o,,  „^,  er,^„ 
i-.M.  Passengers  from  the  North  should  ^"^  ^•^-  ^^^^"  ^^^  Copenhagen  as  soon 
arrive  at  Parkeston  at  9.30  r.M.  >    as  the  tides  permit. 


FARES. 

SINGLE. 

RETURN,  available  for  (50  Days. 

1    1st  Rail     ,   *2nd  Rail 
and  Saloon,  i  and  Saloon. 

1st  Rail 
and  Saloon. 

»2nd  Rail 
and  Saloon. 

LOxNDOxN  to  COPKNHAGEN        £2   11      5           £2      3   11 

London  to  Esb-jerg  .     .        1  17    (5           1  15    0 

Saloon 
Harwich  to  Esbjerg    .      £]  10    0    1 

£4    3    9 
2  16    3 
Saloon. 

£2    5    0 

£3  10    6 
2  13    0 

.. 

Esbjerg— Copenhagen,  3rd  Glass  Single,  58.  |         * 

3rd  Class  Rail  in  England. 

For  full  particulara,  Pamphlet,  and  Tickets,  apply  to  XEGNER,  PRICE  &  CO. ,  107  Fenchorch  Street, 
London,  E.C. ;  or  to  C.  BUSK,  Continental  Traffic  Manager,  Great  Eastern  Railway,  Liverpool 
Street  Station,  London,  E.C. 


POCKKT  FlI.TKR. 


CAUTION! 

Every  Traveller  should  guard 
against  Typhoid  and  other  water- 
borne  diseases 


By  securing  one  of  the 
following:  — 


A  POCKET  FILTER  (4/6  and  6/-  each),  a 
TRAVELLERS'  FILTER,  Germ-proof  (8/6)  or  a 
GERM-PROOF  PUMP  FILTER  (40/-) 


(Large  enough  for  Family  or  Party). 


J3V\ 


Travellers'  Filter 


To  be  had  only  of  the 

WATER  PURIFYING  COMPANY,  LTD.,  157  STRAND,  LONDON, 


Aquarius  powder  for  rendering  hard  water  soft.    Sample  free. 


110  TOURS  AND  CRUISES. 

All  who  TRAVBI4  OP  SBTTLB   ABROAD  should 
consult  the  Publications  of 

SEWELL  &  GROWTHER. 

SPECIAL  PROGRAMME  OF 

''Summer  Tours  and  Cruises  for  1902," 

Giving  particulars  of  a  large  number  of  Conducted  and  Independent  Tours  to  all  parts. 
Sent  Free  for  Twopence  Postage, 


Travel  Tickets,  both  Single  and  Return  and  Circular 
Tours,  issued  in  advance  at  Companies'  Rates. 

HOTEL    COUPONS 

supplied,  available  at  800  of  the  principal  Hotels  at  Home  and 
on  the  Continent,  at  7/-,  8/6,  and  1 0/6  per  day. 

SEWELL   &  CROWTHER'S 
"Quarterly  Yacht  Register." 

Contains  particulars  of  upwards  of  800  Steam  and  Sailing  Yachts,  Launches,  and 
House  Boats  for  Sale  or  Hire.  Also  Racing  Fixtures  for  1901,  and  other  useful  Yacht- 
ing Information.  Special  list  of  Steam  and  Sailing  Yachts  of  all  tonnage  for  hire  in 
the  Mediterranean,  sent  gratis. 

Marine  Insurance  effected  at  Special  Rates. 


SEWELL   &  CROWTHER'S 

"  Shipping  Guide  " 

To  all  parts  of  the  World,  contains  Sailings  of  all  lines  from  the  United  Kingdom, 
Rates  of  Passages,  etc.,  etc.,  etc. 


SEWELL  &  CROWTHER'S 

Baggage  Forwarding  Department 

For  Collecting  and  Forwarding  Personal  Luggage  and  Goods  to  all  parts  of  the  World. 
Goods  stored  for  any  length  of  time  and  insured  at  Lowest  Rates. 

Tickets  and  all  further  information  may  be  obtained  at  the  offices  of 

SEWELL  &   CROWTHER, 

153  FENCHURCH  STREET,  LONDON,  E.G., 

Telegraph  Address—Polynesian.  Telephone— 163 1  Avenue. 

18  COCKSPUR  STREET,  S.W., 
and  11  ONSLOW  PLACE,  SOUTH  KENSINGTON,  S.W. 


TRAVEL TRAVEL  REQUISITES.  Ill 

ViTORLD    TRAVEL. 

Organised  by  HENRY  8.  LUNN,  M.D.,  F.R.G.8., 
W.  H0LD8W0RTH  LUNN  &  CONNOP  F.  8.  PEROWNE. 

%  CRUISES 

On  the  Magnificent  Ocean  Yacht  "  ARO-ONAUT." 

Tonnage,  3273  ;  H.P.,  4000.     Electric  Light.     First-Class  Cuisine. 

Autumn,  Winter  and  Spring  Cruises  to  the  Mediterranean, 

Including  The  Riviera,  Naples,  Sicily,  Algiers,  Malta,  Greece, 

Constantinople,  Smyrna,  Palestine,  Egypt,  Etc. 

Summer  and  Autumn  Cruises  to  the  Baltic, 
Including  the  NORTHEBN  CAPITALS  OF  EUROPE, 

St.  Petersburg,  Stockholm  &  Copenhagen. 

£11 :11s..  £12  :12s.   and  £16 :  16s.   CRUISES  to  the  NORWEGIAN  FJORDS  and 
NORTH  CAPE. 

These  CruLses  are  under  the  auspices  of  the  "Co-operative  Cruising  Company,  Limited." 

£10: 10s.,  £11 :  lis.,  £13  :  13s.  and  £14 :  14s.  TOURS  TO  ROME  via  the  Mont  Cenis 

and  St.  Gothard  Routes.    With  Extensions  to  Naples,  Florence,  Venice,  etc. 
TOURS  to  FLORENCE  and  VENICE,  visiting  Lucerne,  Lugano,  and  Milan. 
£9  :  9s.  and  £7  :  10s.  TOURS  to  CHAMONIX  and  to  GRINDELWALD. 
£6  :  6s.  TOURS  to  GENEVA  and  to  LUCERNE. 
Extensions  to  Zermatt,  The  Oberland,  The  Engadine,  The  Tyrol,  and  The  Italian 

TOURS  to  BERCHTESGADEN  for  the  BAVARIAN  HIGHLANDS,   THE  TYROL, 
and  the  SALZKAMMERGUT. 

All  Tours  oan  be  prolonged.  Pagsengers  return  independently. 

Tickets  supplied  to  all  parts  to  passengers  travelling  independently,  and  passages 
booked  by  all  principal  Steamship  Companies. 

Full  particulars  from  the  SECRETARY, 

_      5   ENDSLEIGH  GARDENS,   EUSTON,   LONDON,   N.W. 

TENTSl    TENTSTT 

SUITABLE  for  Gardens,  Cricket  or  Camping-Out  purposes,  40  feet  in  circumference, 
with  pegs,  poles,  mallet,  and  lines  complete  ^with  tent  bag  included).  These  tents 
are  white,  and  have  only  been  used  a  little  by  His  Majesty's  Government,  and  origin- 
ally cost  over  £6  each.     I  will  send  one  complete  for  30s.    Can  be  sent  on  approval. 

N.B.—I  have  a  quantity  of  tents  from  208.  to  80s.,  but  the  tents  which  please  my 
customers  best  are  those  I  send  out  at  30s.  each, 

Gakdenkrs,  protect  the  buds,  or  you  will  have  no  fruit ;  garden  netting,  35  square 
yards  for  Is.,  sent  any  width,  carriage  paid  on  all  orders  oVer  5s.— H.  J.  Gasson, 
Garden  Net  "Works,  Rye. 

Price  lilst  of  Marquees  (any^ize)  post  free. 

HENRY  JOHN  CASSON,  Government  Contractor,  Rye,  Sussex. 


112  M        ,         MISCELLANEOUS. 

/^^•nrtlQtr       TRADE  m»iSE         "*^^-  ^^ 


THE    LEADING    HOUSE 

FOK 

FASHIONS  IN  FURS. 

Finest  Qualities. 

Lowest  Prices. 

Exclusive  and  Origrinal 
Desig-ns. 

SPECIAL  FACILITIES  FOR 

STORING-  AND  PRESERVING  FURS  FROM  MOTH 

DURING  THE  SUMMER  MONTHS. 


163   &  165   REGENT   STREET, 

LONDON,  W.        ^^^^ 


BOATINQ rlSHIKG. 


113 


BERTHON 

PORTABLE  BOATS  AND  CANOES, 

For  Yacht  and  Steam  Launch  Dinghies^  Fishing  and 
Shooting  Funts. 

A  LARGE  VARIETY  AT  THE  NEW  LONDON  SHOW-ROOM 

50   HOLBORN    VIADUCT,    E.G. 


7 -ft.  Fishing  Boat,  Price  £8  Complete. 

14  Prize  Medals  awarded,  including  2  Gold  Medals  and 
Special  Prize  for  Best  Portable  Boat  at  the  International 
Fisheries  Exhibition  1883,  and  Gold  Medals  at  the  Calcutta 
International  Exhibition  1884,  Edinburgh  Exhibition  1886, 
and  Eoyal  Naval  Exhibition  1891. 


ILLUSTRATED  CATALOGUES  AND  PRICE  LISTS  FREE  ON  APPLICATION. 


BERTHON  BOAT  COMPANY,  LIMITED.— WORKS:  ROMSEY,  HANTS. 

8 


114  MTSCELLANEOUS. 

Homeland    Handbooks 

FOR    THE    HOLIDAYS. 

'     "'  Postage  2(i.  All  Prices  are  Nett.  cioth.     Pap 

No.  "  s.    d.        s. 

1.  Tonbridge  for  the  Angler,  the  Holiday-Maker,  and  the  Resident. 

By  Stanley  Martin  and  Prescott  Row 10  0 

2.  Tunbridge  Wells  of  To-Day.     By  Stanley  Martin  and  Prescott  Row    10  0 

3.  "London  Town."    By  Eric  Hammond.     With  map  .        .        .        .10  0 

4.  "Lyonesse":  The  Isles  of  Scilly.    (1902),  with   Introduction  by 

tiio  late  Sir  Walter  Besant 10        0 

5.  "Wolfe-Land"  :  The  West  erham  District,  Kent.     Second  Edition 

(1000),  with  map.     By  Gibson  Thompson.    With  Introduction  ])y 
Lieut.-Col.  Warde,  D.L.,  .T.P,,  of  Squerryes  Court  .        .        .       '.10        0 
G.  "Kent's  Capital":  Maidstone.    Second  Edition  (1900),  with  map. 

By  Stanley  Martin  and  Prescott  Row .10        0 

7.  Croydon,  New  and  Old.     Second  Edition  (1901),  with  Map.     By 

Edward  A.  Martin,  F.G.S.,  and  J.  B.  Morris,  B.A.  .        .        ".16        0 

8.  Dartmoor  and  its  Surroundings.     Second   Edition  (1901),   with 

maps.     By  Beatrix  F.  Cresswell 16        0 

0.  Rochester  and  Chatham  with  Pen  and  Camera.    Second  Edition 

(1901),  with  map.     By  A.  G.  Munro,  B.A 16        0 

10.  The  Holmesdale  Towns :  Reigate  and  Redhill.    By  T.  Francis  W. 

Hamilton.     With  map 100 

11.  "Surrey's  Capital":   Guildford  and  District.      Second  Edition 

(1901),  with  map.     By  J.  E.  Morris,  B.A.         .....     1     6        0 

12.  Dulverton  and  District:  The  Country  of  the  Wild  Red  Deer. 

Second  Edition  (1901),  Cloth  Edition  contains  map.     By  F,  J. 

Snell,  B.A 100 

13.  Farnham  and  its  Surroundings.     By  Gordon  Home.    (1902),  with 

Introduction  by  Edna  Lj'all 2    0        1 

14.  Godalming  and   its  Surroundings.      (1900),   with  map.      By  T. 

Francis  W.  Hamilton 160 

15.  Teignmoath  and  its  Surroundings.    (1901),  with  map     By  Beatrix 

F.  Cresswell '..160 

16.  Sunny  Days  at  Hastings  and  St.  Leonards.    (1901),  with  maps. 

By  W.  H.  Sanders 16        0 

17.  Epsom  and  its  Surroundings.     (1902),   with  map.     By  Gordon 

Home.     With  a  Prefatory  Note  by  "A. R.' 16        0 

18.  Minehead.  Porlock  and  Dunster:   The  Sea-board  of  Exmoor. 

(1902),  Cloth  Edition  contains  map.     By  C.  E.  Larter    .        .        .16        0 

19.  Cranbrook ;  The  Town  of  the  Kentish  Weald.     Second  Edition 

(1902),  with  map.     By  Stanley  Martin 16        0 

20.  Dawlish  and  the  Estuary  of  the  Exe.      (1902),   Cloth  Edition 

contains  map.     By  Beatrix  F.  Cresswell 10        0 

21.  St.  Albans:  Its  Abbey  and  its  Surroundings.    With  map.     By 

C.  H.  Ashdown,  F.R.G.S.,  F.C.S 2    6        1 

22.  Bromley  and  the  Bromley  Distr.ct,  Beckenham  and  Chislehurst. 

By  George    Clinch,   F.G.S.      With    an    Introduction    by  Philip 

Norman,  F.S.A.     With  map 2    6        1 

23.  Exeter.     By  Beatrix  Cresswell.     With  plan 10       0 

24.  Kingston  and  Surbiton.     By  Dr.  Finny.     With  map        .        .        .26        1 

25.  Petworth  and  its  Surroundings.     By  L.  C.  Barnes.     Cloth  Edition 

contains  map 100 

26.  Haslemere  and  Hindhead.     By  J.  E.  Morris.     With  map        .        .26        1 

Week-Ends  in  Dickens'  Land.     With  map —         0 

Week-Ends  in  Hop  Land.    W^ith  map —         0 

July,  1902.  Many  other  Towns  and  Districts  are  in  active  preparation. 

Of  all  Booksellers,  or  from  the  Publishers— 

THE  HOMELAND  ASSOCIATION  for  the  Encouragement  of  Touring  in 

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MISCELLANEOUS.  115 

ENCHiAND-JOHNSTON*S  NEW  "  THBEE  MILES  TO  INCH  " 

MAP. 

In  25  Sheets.    Price  of  eai-Ji  sheet,  in  case  Is.,  or  on  cloth  and  in  case  Is.  6d.    The 

Best  Maps  for  Tourists.    Index  Map  with  full  details  on  application. 
ENGLAND-JOHNSTON'S  POPULAB  MAP  OF  ENGLAND 

AND  WALES. 
Sixe  36  by  25  inches,  scale  14  miles  to  1  inch.    Shows  all  Railways,  Towns,  Villages, 
Country  Seats,  and  the  Principal  Roads  ;  also  a  Plan  of  the  Environs  of  London. 
Total  number  of  Names  given  is  over  12,000.    Price,  folded  in  cloth  case.  Is.  ; 
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and  Principal  Roads.     Over  10,000  Names  given.    Price,  folded  in  cloth  case.  Is. ; 
mounted  on  cloth  and  folded  in  cloth  case,  2s. 

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INCH  "  MAP.     The  best  Map  for  Tourists. 

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apply  for  Index  Map  with  full  details. 

IBELAND-JOHNSTON'S  BOYAL  ATLAS  MAP  OP 

IBELAND. 

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complete  Index,  price  4s.  6d. 

THE   BEST  GUINEA  ATLAS. 

NOW  READY, 

The  Victoria  Regina  Atlas. 

SECOND  EDITION.— Thoroughly  Revised  to  Date. 

Royal  4to. — 12|  by  10  inches.   <>\^t^4^.^ 

CONTAINING 
200   Coloured   Plates,  Political,  Physical,   and  Astro- 
nomical;   Frontispieces    illustrating  the   Time   of   all 
Nations;    Arms    of   Great   Britain   and    her   Colonies; 
National  Arms;  the  Flags  of  all  Nations;  and 

COMPLETE  INDEX  TO  100,500  PLACES  NAMED. 


r  Half-Bound  Persian  Morocco,  Gilt  Top 
PRICES--  F"ll-Bound  French  Morocco,  Gilt  Edges  £i : 

l  Fnll-Bonnd  Morocco,  Extra  Gilt,  Gilt  Edges 


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(ESTABLISHED  1825) 

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EDINBURGH ; 

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116 


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CARDS  OF  GREAT 
BRITAIN  PRINTED  ABROAD' 

Valentine's  series  of  Pictorial 
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of  interest  and  beauty  in  the 
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,    Stationers 

throug^hout 

i   the  country. 

Large  series 

of  Studies  both 

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entirely  at^^ 
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117 


COLOR   PHOTOGRAPHY. 


X;E]»S,pF   HOLIDAY   RESORTS 

IN 

ALL  PARTS  OF  THE  WORLD 
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i 

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118  MISCELLANEOUS. 

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No  more  Saddle  Soreness ! 

SEAMLESS  SEAT  KNICKERS 

Obviate  all  Chafing,  and  are  Wonderfully  Comfortable  I 


NEW  STYLE. 

SBAMLBSS. 


THE  seats  of  these  garments 
are  cut  in  one  piece,  so 
that  in  Cycle  Riding  there  are 
no  Seams  to  sit  upon,  also 
being  less  contracted  in  the 
fork  than  ordinary  knickers, 
give  more  freedom  of  move- 
ment. The  appearance  is 
much  smarter  in  the  patent 
knickers  than  in  the  old  make, 
and,  when  a  double  seat  is 
introduced,  they  look  neater 
and  show  no  patch.  They 
obviate  all  chafing,  prevent 
seam  soreness,  and  are  wonder- 
fully comfortable. 


OLD  STYLE, 

WITH  SEAMS. 


CYCLING,  ISth  May,  says:—''Oav  oxperience  with  a  pair  of  patent  (Seamless  Seat 
Knickers  confirms  our  opinion  that  the  cause  of  saddle  soreness  is  not  so  much  the 
saddle  as  the  seams  in  knickers." 

Order  from  your  outfitter,  and  insist  upon  having  them. 

In  the  event  of  your  finding  any  difficulty  in  obtaining  the  Seamless  Seat  Knickers, 
write  direct  to  us  for  the  name  of  your  nearest  outfitter,  who  will  supply  you  to 
measure. 


JOHN  HARDING  SON  &  CO.,  LTD. 

Wholesale  and  Export  Clothiers, 

18  and  20  New  Brown  Street,  Manchester. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


119 


ALLEN, 

^  Strand,  London 


itted  Suit  Cases 
n  great  variety. 

RICES  ACCORDING  TO 
FITTINGS  FROM 

£5:5:0 

AND  UPWARDS. 


Illustrated 

Price  Lists  Free, 


SAMPSON  &  CO. 

SHIRT   TAILORS   &    HOSIERS, 


I^PECIALITIES 

IN 

DRESS 
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AVitli  fine  Linen 
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For  Morning  Wear 

Fine  Coloured 

Zephyr  and 
French  Cambric 

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PYJAMAS 

SUITS. 

268-270   OXFORD 


SPECIALITIES 

IN 

SHIRTS 

FOR 

TRAVELLING 

Pure  Silk, 
Fine  Flannel, 
and  Cashmere. 

Silk  and  Woollen 

Underclothing 

OF   THE 

Finest  Texture. 

English 

Manufacture. 

STREET,   W. 


120  MISCELLANEOUS. 

DR.  J.  GOLLIS  BROWNE'S  i^n  |/| 

CHIiORODYNE 

THE  ORIGINAL  AND  ONLY  GENUINE. 

CHLORODYNE  is  admitted  by  the  Profession  to  be  the 
most  wonderful  and  valuable  remedy 
ever  discovered. 

CHLORODYNE  is  the  best  remedy  known  for  Coughs, 
Colds,  Consumption,  Bronchitis, 
Asthma. 

CHLORODYNE  effectually  checks  and  arrests  those  too 
often  fatal  diseases — Diphtheria,  Fever, 
Croup,  Ague. 

CHLORODYNE  acts  like  a  charm  in  Diarrhoea,  and  is 
the  only  specific  in  Cholera  and  Dysen- 
tery. 

CHLORODYNE  effectually  cuts  short  all  attacks  of  Epi- 
lepsy, Hysteria,  Palpitation,  and 
Spasms. 

CHLORODYNE  is  the  only  palliative  in  Neuralgia, 
Rheumatism,  Gout,  Cancer,  Tooth- 
ache, etc. 

CAUTION-BEWARE  OF  PIRACY  AND  IMITATIONS. 

Sold  iu  Bottles  at  Is*  l^d.,  2s.  9d.,  and  4s.  6d.  None  Genuine  with- 
out the  words  ''Dii.  J.  COLLIS  BROWNPTS  CHLORODYNE,"  on  the 
Government  Stamj).  Overwhelming  Medical  Testimony  accompaniea 
each  bottle. 

Sole  Manufacturer —  '.:;/\U\i 

J.  T.  DAVENPORT,     ^^  ^^ 

33  Great  Russell  Street,  W,a 


WISCELLANEOUS. 


121 


ROWLAND 'S 

MACASSAR  OIL 

FOH  THE  HAIR 


UNSURPASSED. 


UNEQUALLED. 


Use  it  for  your  own  and  your  children's  hair  and  you  will  find  it  Pre= 

serves,  Nourishes,  Enriches,  and  Restores  it  more  effectually  than 

anything  else.     Golden  Colour  for  fair  or  grey  hair. 

Bottles,  3/6,  71- ,  10/-    5old  by  Stores,  Chemists,  Hairdressers,  and 

ROWLAND'S,    67    HATTON    GARDEN,    LONDON. 


By  Special  Royal  Appointvient. 

SPEARMAN'S  SERGES  AND  FANCY  WEAVINGS. 

PURE  WOOL  ONLY.     FOR  ALL  SEASONS  OF  THE  YEAR. 

Plain  Colours,  Checks,  and  Mixtures.     Strong!    Useful!    Durable! 

For  Ladies'  "Wear     ...         Is.  ed.  to  4s.  6d.  the  yard. 
For  G-entlemen's  Suits     .        .        2s.  lid.  to  lOs.  6d.  the  yard. 

On  Receipt  of  Instructions  Samples  will  be  sent  Post  Free. 

N.B.— Any  length  cut  and  carriage  paid  to  principal  stations,  or  by  Parcels  Post 

in  the  United  Kingdom. 

ONLY  ADDRESS.— NO  AGENTS:  SPEARMAN.     SPEARMAN. 

PLYMOUTH. 


1/6 
per  lb. 


LUCK'S 


7/6 
each. 


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REFRESHMENT  CONTRACTOR  FOR 

RECEPTIONS,  BREAKFASTS,  SUPPERS,  CINDERELLAS,  DINNERS. 

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122  MISCELLANEOUS. 


To 

His  Majesty 
The  King. 


SCHWEPPES 
TABLE  WATERS.   ^^^ 

Awarded  GOLD  MEDAL,        ^Jt^ 


c-d^*- 


^ 


Awarded  GOLD  MEDAL, 
PARIS  1900 


'^ 


Seltzer  Water, 
Potass  Water, 
Lemonade,  liithia  Water, 
^m  '^^^^  Sparkling  Malvern  Water, 

^^^^^jV  Brewed  Ginger  Beer,  Tonic  Water, 

^^^^%^^^    Dry  Ginger  &le,  Sweet  Ginger  Ale,  &c.,  &c, 

SCHWEPPES  LIMITED,  49  Pall  Mall,  S.W.,  London. 
CAMBRIAN  MINERAL  WATERS 

RUTHIN.-Best  Soda  Water  Sold.    A3^8 

UNSOLICITED  TESTIMONIALS. 

By  Dr.  C.  R.  Francis,  late  Principal  of  th 
Medical  College  in  Calcutta— an  entire  strange 
to  the  Company.  See  "  The  Indian  Magazine,' 
September  1888,  "  On  the  best  mode  of  presery 
ing  health  in  India,"  page  487  : 

"Among  THE  BEST  SODA  WATER  SOLD  i 

that  supplied  ly  the  Ruth  i  n  Soda  Water  Company- 
the  Water  being  obtained  from  an  Artesian  Spring 
in  Vale  ofClwydj  North  Wales." 

Send  for  Price  List  and  Reports  of  Analysis. 

Soda  Water  Potass  Water  Lemonade  Ginger  Beer 

Seltzer  Water  Lithia  Water  Ginger  Ale  Hop  Bitters 

Lime  Juice  and  other  Cordials 
IIANUPACTURED   BY 

The  Ruthin  Soda  Water  Co.,  Limited, 

CAMBRIAN  WORKS,  BUTHIN,  N.W. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


123 


Purveyors 

^o   H-R-H- 

THE    ^,,ES 


Ijtgcbrcme^ 


HerMajestys  Houses  Parliamenv 


HNG^RALEl 


^^31  Cold 

^PrizeMedals 

AWARDED 


NASSAuWoRKS^ii^^^^yy  CkOMAC  BUILDINGS  WOODSTOCXST  OXFORD  St 

Dublin^/    Belfast.     •London- 


British  Section  at  Paris  Exiiibition.     Tiie  HIGHEST  AWARD  to 

GANTRELL  &  COCHRANE,  Ltd. 

MANUFACTURERS  OF 

MINEEAL   WATERS, 

BY  SPECIAL  APPOINTMENT  TO 

HIS  MAJESTY  THE  KING. 


"  CLUB  SODA,"     THE  BEVERAGE  OF  HEALTH. 
GINGER  ALE,  "AROMATIC,"    THE  ORIGINAL  BRAND. 
"SPARKLING    MONTSERRAT,"      THE    DRINK    FOR    THE 
GOUTY  AND  RHEUMATIC. 
Royal  Seltzer,  Potass,  Lithia  Waters,  Lemonade,  etc. 

"CLUB  ALE"  and  "CLUB  KOLA"  New  Specialties. 

Cantrell  &  Cochrane,  Ltd.,  were  awardod  a  GOI-l)  MEDAL  for  all  their 

products  at  Jiiverpool  Exhibition,  1886. 
Cantrell  &  Cochrane,  Ltd.,  are  the  only  Manufacturers  who  were  awarded  a 
Medal  for  their  products  at  Paris  Exhibition,  18S9,iGold  Medal  at  Kingston 
Jamaica  Exhibition,  1891,  making  a  grand  total  of 

THIRTY-TWO  GOLD  AND  PRIZE  MEDALS  AWARDED. 

LONDON  DEPOT— Findlater's  Corner,  London  Bridge,  S.E. 
GLASGOW  DEPOT-53  Surrey  Street. 

Works :  BELFAST  and  DUBLIN. 


124 


MISCELLANEOUS 


Shetland^  Goods 


■a 


i  ^lOV 


JOHN  WHITE  &  CO. 
SHETLAND    HOUSE 

30  &  32  Frederick  Street, 

formerly  10  Frederick  Street, 

EDINBURGH.    '^  ""'^ 

Illustrated  List  fre6^^^.A»T0 


Telegrams:  Shetlands,  Edinburgh. 


jasr 


ELEPHONE:  2270. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


125 


THE  UNITED  ALKALI  COMPANY,  LIMITED. 


TELEGRAMS :     UBIQUE,  LIVERPOOL." 

30  JAMES  STREET,  LIVERPOOL. 

MA  NUFA  CT  URERS  OF 


TELEPHONE,  5001. 


Acetate  of  Soda. 

Acetic  Acid,Coinmercial,Glacial, 

and  Vinegar  qualities. 
Acetone. 

Ammonia  Alkali,  all  Strengths. 
Bicarbonate  of   Soda,  High 

strength  ;  also  Mineral  Water 

quality. 
Bisulphite  of  Soda. 
Bleaching  Powder. 
Calcium  Carbide. 
Carbonate  of  Potash. 
Caustic  Potash. 

Caustic  Soda  50%  to  78%. 
Caustic  Soda,  Liquid. 

Powder,  98%. 
Chlorate  of  Potash. 
Soda. 
, ,  Baryta. 

Chloros  (Liquid  Disinfectant). 
Chlorosene  Powder. 
Chloride  of  Ammonium  (Refined). 
Chloride  of  Calcium. 
Chloride  of  Lime. 

(Sanitary). 
Chloride  of  Magnesium. 
Copper,  B.S.  &  G.M.B.'s  etc. 
Copper  Precipitate. 
Chromic  Acid. 
Crystal  Carbonate. 
Cyanides. 
Diamond  Soda. 
Fertilisers. 
Glycerine. 
Hydrochloric  Acid,  Common 

and  Purified,  also  Commercially 

free  from  Arsenic  and  Vitriol. 
Hypochlorite  of  Soda. 
Hyposulphite  of  Soda. 
Ketone  Oils. 
Laundry  Bleach. 
Manganate  of  Soda. 
Manganese  (Recovered). 
Monohydrate. 


Muriate  of  Ammonia. 

Pearl  Ash. 

Pest  Killer.      Strawsonite. 

"Charlock"  Brand  Sulphate 
of  Copper. 

Purple  Ore. 

, ,  Briquettes. 

Rectified  Vitriol. 

Sal  Ammoniac. 

Salt,  White  in  all  qualities. 
Rock,  Lump,  and  Ground. 

Silicate  of  Soda. 

Soaps,  Hazlehurst's  **  Red 
SIaid"  Laundry,  "Cash- 
mere" Toilet,  "Protector" 
Carbolic,  and  other  noted  Soaps. 

Soda  Ash,  all  strengths  by 
Ammonia  and  Le  Blanc  pro- 


and 


Soda  Crystals. 
Spraying  Materials. 
Strontium  Oxide. 

, ,  Hydrate. 

, ,  Carbonate. 

Sulphur      (Rock,       Roll, 

Flowers). 
Sulphuric  Acid,  Brown,  Best 

Brown,  and   Rectified,  Anhy- 
drous or  Fuming. 
Sulphate  of  Ammonia. 
Sulphate  of  Copper. 
Sulphate  of   Soda  or  Salt- 

Cake,  in  Bulk  or  Ground. 
Sulphide  of  Sodium. 
Sulphydrate  of  Calcium. 
Superphosphates. 
Tar  Products : 

Solvent  Naphtha. 

Benzole  50%  and  90%. 

Creosote  Oil  and  Salts. 

Common  and  Prepared  Tar. 

Black  Varnish. 

Pitch,  etc. 
Ultramarine. 
Vitriol,  all  qualities  and  strengths. 


By  MORTIMER  MENPES. 


JAPAN   •  • 

A     RECORD 
IN  COLOUR 

CONTAINING  loo 
FULL-PAGE  ILLU- 
STRATIONS  IN 
COLOUR 

^  Price  20s.  net. 


WAR 

IMPRESSIONS    • 

BEING 

A  RECORD 

IN    COLOUR 

CONTAINING  99  FULL-PAGE 
ILLUSTRATIONS  IN  COLOUR  • 
SIX  FACSIMILE  LETTERS 
FROM  GENERALS  •  AND  A 
BOER  PLAN  OF  MAGERS- 
FONTEIN 

Price  20s,  net. 


Some  Press  Opinions. 

Black  and  White.—"  It  Ls  a  charming  volume,  and  con 
some  of  the  most  delightful  of  Mr  Menpes"  Japanese  stu 
The  reading  matter,  too,  is  very  bright,  and  accords  i 
agreeably  with  the  delightful  pages  in  which  the  artist  I 
unquestionable  possession  of  the  stage." 

The  Times. — "  Mr.  Menpes'  pictures  are  here  given  in  i 
perfect  facsimile,  and  they  form  altogether  a  series  of  co! 
nnpressions  of  Japan  which  may  fairly  be  called  unriva 
liven  without  the  narrative  they  would  show  that  Mr.  Mei 
is  an  enthusiast  for  Japan,  her  art,  and  her  people  ;  and 
{^w  European  artists  have  succeeded  in  giving  such  comj 
expression  to  an  admiration  in  which  all  share." 

The  Scotsman. — "These  brilliant  and  vigorous  picture 
the  life,  scenery,  and  customs  of  Japan  will  give  pleasure  i 
to  the  lover  of  Art  and  to  the  student  of  manners," 

Dally  News.— "  Exquisite  is  the  only  adjective  one 
apply  to  colour  that  deals  with  texts  so  delicately  modul 
and  of  such  individual  beauty." 

Literary  World.—"  It  is  seldom  that  a  book  so  ent: 
delighful  swims  within  the  ken  either  of  the  reviewer  c 
the  public." 

The  Speaker.—"  It  is  perhaps  superfluous  to  state  thai 
hundred  illustrations  in  colour  which  adorn  this  work — b 
exquisitely  skilful  reproductions  of  Mr.  Menpes'  beau 
paintings  of  Japan  and  its  people— leave  absolutely  nothir 
be  desired.  The  pictures  represent  Japanese  life  and  scei 
with  absolute  fidelity,  and  child-life  in  particular." 

The  Academy.— "  This  is  in  its  way  the  most  charming 
delicate  study  of  Japan  which  has  yet  been  published." 


Dally  Telegraph.— "  One  hardly  knows  which  to  adi 
the  more— the  skill  of  the  artist  or  the  skill  with  which 
studies  have  been  reproduced,  for  the  colours  of  the  origi 
are  shown  with  marvellous  fidelity,  and  the  delicate  art  of 
impressionist  loses  nothing  in  the  process.  The  book,  th 
fore,  is  a  double  triumph,  and  will  therefore  be  prized 
collectors." 

The  Times.— "  The  general  views  of  incidents— troop 
the  march,  and  so  forth — are  extremely  clever.  The  porti 
are  mostly  very  good,  especially  those  of  Lord  Roberts, 
Rhodes,  and  General  Macdonald." 

Scotsman.— "  This  is  in  many  ways  the  most  attractive  \ 
on  the  South  African  War  that  has  yet  been  published." 

Black  and  White.— "Of  all  the  recent  books  which  \ 
reached  our  hands,  none  has  given  us  so  much  pleasure,  I 
on  account  of  letterpress   and    illustrations,    as    JVar 
fir 


Daily  Chronicle.— "  Of  all  the  many  pictures  of  the  S( 
African  campaign,  we  have  seen  none  to  compare  with  tl 
for  poetic  worth  or  for  beauty  of  drawing  and  colour." 

Glasgow  Herald.—"  The  most  beautiful  book  the  War 


produced. 


One  does  not  recall  any  book  which  sts 


in  the  same  category  ;  certainly  the  ^^'ar  has  brought  f 
nothing  so  lovely." 


The  Athensnm, 

War." 


'  An  excellent  illustrated  record  of 


A    DETAILED    PROSPECTUS    WITH    SPECIMEN    ILLUSTRATION 
WILL     BE     SENT     ON     APPLICATION     TO     THE     PUBLISHERS 

A.  &  C.  BLACK  •  4  SOHO  SQUARE  •  LONDON, 


W 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


127 


A.   S. 

EUXESIS  versus  SOAP. 


LLOYD'S   EUXESIS. 

A  DELIGHTFUL  CREAM. 

For  Shaviag  without  Soap, 

Water,  or  Brush. 

And  in  one-half  the  ordinary  time 

Tube  of  EUXESIS  and  a 

Sharp  Razor  being  the 

only  necessaries. 

The  genuine  bears  two  signatures, 
"A.  S.  Lloyd  "  in  hlacl:,  and  "  Aim^e 
Lloyd  "  in  red  ink.  Refuse  any  other. 
Hold  by  Chemists  and  Stores ;  or 
post  free  for  1/6  from— 
liLOYD  &  CO.,  3  SPUR   ST.,  LEICESTER   SQ.,  LONDON,  1¥.C. 


THE  WANT  OF 
THE  DAY. 


HAKES  STARCHED 
:.INEN  LIKE  NEW. 


CRITCHLEYS 


The  Oreatest  Boon 
ever  offered  to  the 
Laundries  for  im- 
parting an  Ivory 
Finish  to  Starched 
Linen,  Laces,  etc. 


It  does  not  stick  to  Spider-Web-like  materials.  Once  tried  always  wanted.  Used  in 
he  Royal  Laundries.  Should  be  used  in  every  House.  Sold  by  most  Starch-sellers,  In 
«cket3,  Id.,  3d.,  and  6d.  each.    Prepared  only  by  T.  CRITCHLBY,  Chemist,  Blackburn, 


BUMSTED^S 


FOR  THE  TABLE. 


FOR  THE  BATH. 
3  A  LT      ''OR  THE  GARDEN. 


AS  SUPPLIED  TO 
HER  MAJESTY  THE  QUEEN 

D.  BUMSTED  &  CO.,  36  King  William  Street,  E.C 


TEMPERANCE 


u  amiii  oia  irji 


PERMANENT  BUILDING  SOCIETY, 

4  LUDGATE  HILL,  LONDON,  E.C. 
>ROMPT  ADVANCES.    REDUCED   REPAYMENTS, 

vi  ;  DEPOSITS  received  at  3  per  cent,  interest. 

Withdrawable  at  Short  Notice. 

Apply  to  EDWARD  WOOD,  Secretary. 


128  BENEVOLENT  INSTITUTION. 

UNITED   KINGDOM 

RAILWAY  OFFICERS'  AND  SERVANTS'  ASSOCIATION, 

21  FINSBURY  PAVEMENT,  LONDON,  B.C. 

Established  1861. 

Patron:  HIS  MAJESTY  KING  EDWARD  VIL 

Treasurer:  HENRY  BROOKS,  Esq. 

Bankers:  THE  NATIONAL  PROVINCIAL  BANK  OF  ENGLAND,  Limited, 

112  BiSHOPSOATE  Street,  E.G.  ■"    '  -  '   • 


OBJECTS  OF  THE   INSTITUTION. 

To  give  temporary  and  permanent  assistance  to  Railway 
Servants  in  cases  of  Severe  Illness,  or  if  otherwise  incapacitated 
for  work;  to  provide  them  with  Annuities  in  old  age,  and  at 
death  to  assist  their  families. 


Since  the  establishment  of  the  Institution,  the  follow- 
ing benefits  have  been  conferred  on  Railway  Servants 
and  their  wives  and  families  to  the  31st  Decembei 
1901:— 

To  Widows  and  Members  (from  Death  Fund)  £49,1 66     0  C 

„  Annuitants     ....        J.   l.  34,120  10  ( 

In  Sickness  (since  1874)       .         .         .         .  69,698     2  ( 

„  Special  Grants 7,325     2  ( 

To  Orphans.       .     --r^        ,        .         .         .  4,172  13  ( 

ih'i  n\H  I  V 

Making  a  total  of     .    £164,482     8     ( 

Grants  are  made  by  the  Committee  to  Necessitous  Cases  Montlily. 

Donations,  Subscriptions,  and  Bequests  are  earnestly 
solicited,  and  will  be  gratefully  received  by  the  Bankers,  o 
by  the  Secretary,  at  the  Offices  of  the  Association. 

A  Subscriber  of  One  Guinea  annually  is  entitled  to  Four  Votei 
at  every  Election  of  Pensioners. 

Donors  of  Five  Guineas  become  Life  Governors,  and  receive 
One  Vote  at  every  Election,  and  One  for  every  additional  Fiv< 
Guineas. 

ALFEED  JAMES, 

^O^'^  Secretary. 


INSURANCK  129 

.     CAPITAL,  SIX  MILLIONS  STERLING. 
Total  Funds  .  .  exceed     iG5,O0O,O0O 


SCOTTISH  UNION  AND  NATIONAL 


INSURANCE    COMPANY. 

LONDON  :    3  KING  WILLIAM  STREET,  E.G. 
GLASGOW:   150  WEST  GEORGE  STREET. 

HEAD  OFFICE:  35  ST.  ANDREW  SQUARE,  EDINBURGH. 


Secretary:  J.  K.  MACDONALD.     Actuary:  COLIN  M'CUAIG,  F.F.A. 
General  Manager :  A.  DUNCAN. 


LIFE  ASSURANCE. 

EARLY    BONUS    SCHEME    (E.B.) 

The  following  among  other  special  advantages  apply  to  ordinary  Policies  issued  under 
this  Scheme.  Besides  being  payable  immediately  on  proof  of  death  and  title,  they  are, 
oX  the  end  of  Three  years  from  their  date, 

Entitled  to  rank  for  Bonus  Additions ; 

Indisputable  on  the  ground  of  Errors  or  Omissions ; 

World-Wide  without  Extra  Charge ;  and 

Liable  only  to  Reduction  in  Amount  on  Non-payment  of  the  Premiums. 

At  the  Division  of  Profits  for  the  Five  Years  ending  31st  December  1890,  Ordinary 

Life  Policies  under  the  Scheme  received  a  Bonus  Addition  of  £1 :  10s.  per  cent 

for  each  year  since  they  were  entitled  to  rank. 


SPECIAL    BONUS    SCHEME    (D.B.) 

Under  this  Scheme  Profit  Policies  are  issued  at  Rates  which  do  not  exceed, 
and  in  many  cases  fall  short  of  the  Non-Profit  Rates  of  other  Offices. 

They  share  in  the  profits  when  the  Premiums  received,  accumulated  at  4  per  cent 
compound  interest,  amount  to  the  sum  assured. 

Policies  iss^ced  at  these  very  economical  Rates  practically  receive  a  Large  Bonus  at  the 
outset. 

At  age  30,  £1200  with  right  to  Profits  can  be  insured  for  the  same  Premium  as 
would  be  charged  for  £1000  under  the  usual  Profit  Schemes  of  most  Offices. 

In  1899  Policies  of  this  class  which  ranked  for  Bonus  for  the  first  time  received 
additions  at  the  rate  of  £10  per  cent,  besides  a  further  progressive  addition  of  10s. 
per  cent  per  annum  ;  and  Policies  which  had  previously  participated  received  further 
additions. 


FIRE  INSURANCE. 

Almost  all  descriptions  of  Property  insured  on  the  most  favourable  conditions. 


Agents  able  to  influence  Biisiness  wanted. 
9 


130  INSURANOB. 

Commnrctal  Winion  aggurance  Compang,  iimitetr. 

FIRE— LIFE— MARINE— ACCIDENT. 

Capital  ftiUy  Subscribed £2,500,000 

life  Funds £2,310,925 

TOTAL  ASSETS  EXCEED  SIX  MILLIONS. 
Total  Annual  Income  exceeds        ....     £2,000,000 

HEAD  OFFICE:— 24,  25,  &  26  CORNHILL,  LONDON,  E.G. 

WEST  END  OFFICE:— 8  PALL  MALL,   LONDON,   S.W. 

NEW  BRIDGE  STREET  OFFICE  :— 20  NEW  BRIDGE  STREET,  LONDON,  E.a 

MINCING  LANE  OFFICE :— 37a  MINCING  LANE,  LONDON,  E.C. 

DIRECTORS. 

Frkdkrick  W.  Harris,  Esq.  (Harris  &  Dixon). 
P.  Larkwortht,  Esq. 


W.  Rkkbrson  Aabuthstot,  Esq, 

Robert  Barclay,  Esq.  (Barclay  4  Co.,  Limited). 

Sir  Thomas  Brooke,  Bart. 

W,  MiDDLKTON  Campbkix,  Esq.  (Curtis,  Campbell, 

&  Co.). 
Jkrbmiah  CoiMAN.  Esq.  J.  &  J.  Col  man.  Limited), 
The  Right  Hon.  Leonard  H.  Courtnbt. 
WtujAM  C.  Dawks  Esq  (J.  B.  Westray  ft  Co.). 
Sir  James  F.  Garrick.  K-C  K.C.M.G. 
W.  M.  GuTHBiK,  Esq..  M.P.  (Chalmers,  Guthrie,  &  Co., 

Limited). 


John  H.  Ley.  Esq. 

General  Sir  Henry  "W.  Norman,  G.C.B, 

Thomas  Rudd,  Esq.  (Rudd  &  Co.). 

J.  Carr  Saunders.  Esq. 

Sir  Andrew  R.  Scoble,  K.C.S.I.,  K.C. 

Aijxander  Billing  Sim,  Esq.  (Churchill  ft  Sim). 

W.  J.  Thompson.  Jun„  Esq.  (W.  J.  A  H.  Thompson). 

John  Trotteb,  Esq..  (John  Trotter  <t  Co.). 

P.  Bence  Trowkb.  Esq.  (Trower  &  Sons). 


F.  L  Wallace,  Esq.  (Wallace  Bros. ). 

Prospectuses  and  all  information  needful  for  effecting  Assurances  may  be  obtained  at 
any  of  the  Company's  Offices  or  Agencies  throughout  the  World. 

FIRE    DEPARTMENT. 

Undoubted  Security.    Moderate  Rates.    Prompt  and 
Liberal  Settlements. 

LIFE    DEPARTMENT. 

The  Life  Funds  form  a  separate  Fund. 

The  Assured  wholly  free  from  liability. 

Four-Fifths  of  the  Entire  Life  Profits  belong  to  Policyholders. 

Interim  Bonuses  are  paid. 

The  Expenses  of  Management  limited  by  Deed  of  Settlement. 

Liberal  Surrender  Values  guaranteed ;  and  Claims  paid  immediately  on  proof  of 
death  and  title. 

Married  "Women's  Property  Act  (1882)  — Policies  are  issued  to  husbands  for  the 
benefit  of  their  wives  and  children,  thus  creating,  without  trouble,  expense,  stamp 
duty,  or  legal  assistance,  a  Family  Settlement  which  creditors  cannot  touch. 

MARINE    DEPARTMENT. 

Rates  for  Marine  Risks  on  application. 

ACCIDENT    DEPARTMENT. 
Policies  of  all  classes  and  Fidelity  Guaranteed  Bonds  issued. 

EDINBUaaH  BRANCH       .       .       37  Hanover  Street. 

LOCAL   BOARD. 
Wm  BEVERiDGE,Jun.,  Esq., Dunfermline.    I      W,  H.  B.  Martin,  Esq.,  Dundee. 
Geo  Bennbt  Clark,  Esq.,  W.S.  |     J.  A.  Robertson  Durham,  Esq.,  C.A. 

Graham  G.  Watson,  Esq.,  W.S. 

W.  P.  WILSON  BRODTE,  C.A.,  District  Matmger. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


131 


SCOTT    ADIE, 

THE  ROYAL  SCOTCH  WAREHOUSE.iOci 
115,   115a  REGENT  STREET,   LONDON,  W. 


Travelling  Coats. 
Ulsters  and  Capes. 
Shooting  Coats, 
Golf  Suits  and  Capes. 
Hand-Knit  Stockings. 
Railway  Rugs  from  18  6. 
Highla,nd  Jewellery, 


THE  ASCOT 

is  a  stylish  coat  made  in  a  grey  Simla 
cloth  with  the  new  Mandarin  sleeves. 

Tailor  Gowns. 
Jackets  and  Skirts. 
Cawdor  Capes. 
Carriage  Cloaks. 
Scotch  Shawls. 
Shetland  "Wool  Shawls. 
Dust  Rugs  from  15/6. 
Tartan  Silks  &  Ribbons. 


THE  RAGLAN  COAT 

is  made  in  Scotch  Cheviots,  Harris 

Homespuns,  and  Reversible 

Tweeds. 


Illustrated  Catalogue  post  free. 

TELEGRAMS— ''^COTT   ADIE,   LONDON." 


132  INSURANCE. 

THE 

Scottish  Widows'  Fund 

(MUTUAL)  LIFE  ASSURANCE  SOCIETY. 

THE  OUTSTANDINQ  FEATURE 

Of  the  SCOTTISH  WIDOWS'  FUND 

Is  the  Unusually  Profitable  Character  of  its  Policies,  as  clearly 
shown  in  the  Tables  given  in  the  Society's  Prospectus,  relating 
practically  to  every  Policy  in  force,  and  also  in  the  recent 
Declaration  on  23rd  May  1902  of  the  two  following 

VERY  LARGE  COMPOUND  BONUSES 

of  jQi :  14s.  and  £1 :  12s.  per  cent  per  annum  respectively 

which,  compiited  on  Original  Sums  Assured  alone,  show  the  follow- 
ing remarkable  additions  to  the  Policies  : 

1.  For  the  Seven  Years  to  December  1901 

From  £l:14s.  to  £5:4:9d.  pep  cent  per  annum 

2.  For  the  Intermediate  Seven  to  next  Division 

From  £1  :  12s.  lo  £5:10:  5d.  per  eent  per  annum 

According  to  duration  of  the  Policies. 

These  Bonuses  are  of  exceptional  magnitude,  and  should 

decide  all  who  desire  to  obtain  Life  Assurance  Policies  of  the 

most  profitable  description  to  effect  them  tcith  the  Society. 


EDINBITHQH  (Head  Opfice),  9  ST.  ANDREW  SQUARE. 
LONDON,  28  CoRNHiLL,  E.G.,  AND  5  Waterloo  Place,  fcf.W. 
DUBLIN,  41  Westmoreland  Street.  LEEDS,  21  Park  Row. 

GLASGOW,  114  West  George  Street.     \      BRISTOL,  28  Baldwin  Street. 
MANCHESTER,  21  ALBERT  SQUARE.  NEWCASTLE,  12  Grey  Street. 

LIVERPOOL,  48  Castle  Street.  I      BELFAST,  2  High  Street. 

BIRMINGHAM,  12  Bennett's  Hill. 

Agencies  in  all  Important  Tovms  in  the  Kingdom. 


inui 


BLACK'S    GUIDE-BOOKS 


Bath  and  Bristol,  6d 

Belfast  and  the  North  of  Ireland,  Is  (cloth  Is  6d) 

Bournemouth,  6d 

Brighton  and  Environs,  Is 

Buckinghamshire,  2s  66. 

Buxton  and  the  Peak  Country,  Is 

Canterbury  and  East  Kent,  Is 

Channel   Islands,  Is  (cloth,  with   extra   maps, 

2s  6d) 
Clyde,  Is 

Cornwall  and  Scilly  Islands,  2s  6d 
Derbyshire  (Buxton,  Matlock,  Chatsworth),   Is 
Devonshire  (Torquay,  Plymouth,  Exeter),  2s  6d 
Dorsetshire  (Swanage,  "Weymouth),  2s  6d 
Dublin  and  the  East  of  Ireland,  Is  (cloth  Is  6d) 
Edinburgh,  6d 
English  Lakes,  3s  6d 

Do.  Cheap  Edition,  Js 

Exeter  and  East  Devon,  Is 
Galway  and  West  of  Ireland,  Is  (cloth  Is  6d) 
Glasgow,  Is 
Gloucestershire,  Is 


UC.  BERKELEY  LIBRARIES 


Hampshire  (Bournemouth,  Portsmoutli,  &c.)  2s  6d 

Harrogate,  Is 

Hastings  and  Eastbourne,  Is 

Hereford  and  Monmouth,  2s  6d 

Ilfracombe  and  North  Devon,  6d 

Ireland,  5s 

Do.    Cheap  Edition,  Is 

Isle  of  Man,  Is 

Isle  of  Wight,  Is  (cloth  Is  6d) 

Jersey,  Guernsey  and  Alderney,  Is  (cloth  2s  6d) 

Kent,  2s  66. 
Do.     East  (Canterbury,  Margate,  Bamsgate,  &c.),  Is 
Do.     West  (Tunbridge  Wells,  Maidstone,  &c.).  Is 

Killarney  &  the  South  of  Ireland,  Is  (cloth  Is  6d) 

Leamington,  Stratford-on-Avon,  &c.,  Is 

Liverpool  and  District,  Is 

London  and  Environs,  Is  (cloth  2s  6d) 

London,  Around  North,  6d;  West,  6d 

Manchester  and  Salford,  Is 

Margate  and  the  East  Coast  of  Kent,  Is 

Matlock,  Dovedale  and  Central  Derbyshire,  la 

Plymouth  and  South  Devon,  Is 

Scarborough  and  Whitby,  Is 

Scotland,  8s  6d 

Do.       Cheap  Edition,  Is 

Somerset,  2s  6d 

Surrey,  2s  6d 

Sussex  (Brighton,  Hastings,  Eastbourne),  23  6d 

Torquay  and  the  South  Hams,  6d 

Trossachs  and  Loch  Lomond,  Is 

Tunbridge  Wells  and  West  Kent,  Is 

Wales,  North,  3s  6d 
Do.  South,  3s  6d 
Do.     Cheap  Edition,  Is 

Where  Shall  We  Go?     3s  6d 

Wye,  The,  Is 
Yorkshire,  Is 


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