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Popular Dogs of the Day

NO. |

THE
BOSTON TERRIER

ITS HISTORY, POINTS,
BREEDING, REARING
TRAINING, AND CARE
TOGETHER WITH SEV-
ERAL INSTRUCTIVE
CHAPTERS ON MAN-
AGEMENT AND _ DIS-
EASES OF DOGS FROM
A COMMON SENSE

By J. VARNUM MOTT, M. D.

eee and Revised Edition

ILLUSTRATED

FIELD AND FANCY PUBLISHING CO.
14 and 16 CHURCH STREET, NEW YORK

LIBRARY of CONGRESS
Two Copies Received
NOV 6 1906

OOPYRIGHT, 1906.

FIELD AND FANCY PUBLISHING CO.
NEW YORK

THE LATE DR. J, VARNUM MOTT.

CONTENTS:

CHAPTER “TI;
HISTORY OF THE BREED.

The Origin and History of the Boston Terrier—Concerning
Some of the Earlier Dogs—The Influence of Bernard’s Tom
—Other Important Sires—How the Small Size Was Ob-
tained—A False Impression Corrected............... 9-13

CHAPTER II.
THE BOSTON TERRIER CLUB.

The Purposes and Objects of the Boston Terrier Club—History
of This Organization—The Work Done by the 'Club—The
Officers—The Specialty Show—The Constitution and By-
Laws—The Boston ‘Terrier Standard and Scale of
POG Sea cee eer UiNes Man ee ee eee ee Ray sre Ne atte ba, 8 14-25

CHAPTER III.
THE BOSTON AS A SHOW DOG.

The Unique Position of the Breed as a Show Dog—The Neces-
sity of Breeding in This Variety—The Small Kennel’s Breed
—The Importance of Good Judges—The Qualifications for
Judging—The Spirit of the True Fancier............. 26-31

CHAPTER IV.
BREEDING.

The Difficulties of Breeding Typical Dogs—The Keynote of
Uniformity—Breeding Hints—The Question of Mating—
Valuable Points as to the Selection of the Sire—The Im-:
portance of Pedigree—Care of a Stud Dog—Rational Mating
bie ditch and flier Puppies jas sro. laws cede ans § 32-40

CHAPTER V.
EDUCATING A BOSTON TERRIER.

The Characteristics of Boston Terriers—Their Intelligence—
A Practical Demonstration—Housebreaking—Teaching
Them to be Watchful—Discipline—Some of the Special
Advantages of the Breed) era en ecats oe te eeee 41-50

CHAPTER. -Vi.
BUYING A DOG.

How to Select a Dog—Intelligence of the Boston Terrier—Each
Dog’s Peculiarities and Characteristics—The Best Way to
Buy—Reputable Dealers—“Over Distemper’—Some Advice
on Veterinaries—The Dog vs. the Bitch as a Com-
WaAnion, cvs PSE ik SMe ctacie nt nig nig hate bre eee pean eet ace tame 51-57

CHAPTER VII.
THE CARE OF A DOG.

The Foundation of Health—Feeding—The Happy Medium—
What and When to Feed—The Candy Curse—The Play-
thing—The Importance of Exercise—The Airing—The
Walk—Street Breaking a Dog—Following a Trap.... 58-66

CHAPTER VIII.
SOME HINTS ON DOG KEEPING.

Dog Blankets and Their Use—The Care of the Feet—The Eyes
—Constipation and Its Opposite—Coughs From _ the
Stomach and Throat—The Bath—The Best Dog Soap—The
Best Way to Wash a Dog—Fleas—Care of the Coat.. 67-73

CHAPTER IX.
CANINE DISEASES.

The Susceptibility of the Breed to Disease—Worms—The
Dangers of Vermifuges—Teething Troubles—Distemper—
Its Causes and Treatment—Complications of Distemper—
Recovery From Distemper—Skin Diseases—How to Kill a
Dog Humanelys s,s $0 ee i eee 74-83

Glossary: of ‘Technical ‘Terms .29:. 1) ease 84-87

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page
Frontispiece—Dr. J. Varnum Mott.
BS eels Fe OEE et re ine Wek AG a Big aw es wakes owe c bens II
Bearcats alge ee See eet e Sarco wee Lote Cm Ma APS wierd a's alee 13
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Sot ULE ED he a Sage a RR eee eae EU aie cde oF,
Y epemiany <2 3 Ree atc ee oe RR a ie eee er ee 79
Lady Dainty Sie eer on od seve ae Le ee pe cen PEDMN Yev Ol
Whisper ss Sciacca can oe. il ete Sec ater ce eer ted eee eee 83

CHAPTER I.

HISTORY OF THE BREED.

The Origin and History of the Boston Terrier—Concerning
Some of the Earlier Dogs—The Influence of Barnard’s
Tom—Other Important Sires—How the Small Size was
Obtained—A False Impression Corrected.

A CORRECT biography of this most popu-
lar and important breed cannot fail to
prove of absorbing interest, and we are
particularly fortunate in being able to rely
on the history as given by one who cer-
tainly had ample opportunity, by his long
and varied experience as a breeder, to be-
come familiar and thoroughly conversant
with all of the most important facts of
Boston Terrier history. The mingling of
the blood of the aristocratic English Bull-
dog and the pugnacious Bull Terrier oc-

curred over thirty years ago, and the result was responsible for

the present Boston Terrier.

Being very anxious to present a correct and concise history
of this breed, application has been made to Mr. Dwight Baldwin,
long recognized as an expert, to be permitted to use in its en-
tirety his very lucid description of the early history of the breed
as contained in the Boston Terrier Club Book. This permission
was most cordially given, and we are surely indebted to him for
this privilege. Search was made among the earlier breeders for
photographs of the dogs of days gone by, and as a result of
their interest and kindness photographs of dogs who, although
noted in their day, have never thus appeared before the public
are in this little volume.

The question is often asked: How did the breed originate?
Briefly stated, it may be said to have resulted from a cross be-
tween the English Bulldog and the English Terrier, and then
to have been considerably inbred. Accidental peculiarities of the
first dogs used as sires are partly responsible for the present
type: .

ow --—5

re)

About twenty-five (now thirty-five) years ago Mr. Robert C.
Hooper of Boston came into possession of a dog named Judge.
This dog, which he purchased of Mr. William O’Brien of the
same city, was undoubtedly imported from the other side. Judge,
commonly known as Hooper’s Judge, was destined to be the an-
cestor of almost all the true modern Boston Terriers. He was a
cross between an English Bulldog and an English Terrier, lean-
ing in type rather more toward the Bulldog. He was a strongly
built, high-stationed dog of about thirty-two pounds weight. In
color he was a dark brindle, with a white stripe in the face. His
head was square and blocky, and he resembled the present Bos-
ton Terrier in that he was nearly even mouthed. Judge was
bred to Burnett’s Gyp (or Kate). Gyp was a white bitch,
owned by Mr. Edward Burnett of Southboro. She was of about
twenty pounds weight, had a fine three-quarter tail and was
quite low stationed. She was of stocky build, showing consider-
able strength in her make-up. Her head was good, being short
and blocky.

From Judge and Gyp descended Wells’ Eph. This dog was
of strong build and, like his dam, was low stationed. His weight
was about twenty-eight pounds. He was of a dark brindle color,
with even white markings, and, like Judge, was nearly even
mouthed.

Eph was mated with Tobin’s Kate. This bitch was of small
size, weighing only twenty pounds. She had a fairly short
head, was of a golden brindle color, and had a straight three-
quarter tail.

From Wells’ Eph and Tobin’s Kate came Barnard’s Tom,
the first dog in this line to rejoice in a screw tail. Tom was a
dark brindle dog, with a white blaze on the side of his face,
white collar, white chest and white feet. His weight was about
twenty-two pounds. This dog was a great improvement over
his sire and grandsire, being the first to show that fine quality
that is present in a good specimen of the modern Boston Terrier.
Tom was undoubtedly the best Boston Terrier of, his day, and
was naturally much used in the stud. He proved very pre-
potent, much more so than his litter brother, Atkinson’s Toby.
The latter was also dark brindle and white, but differed from
Tom in being evenly marked. His tail was not as good, being of
Neil ee Irom Tom came Barnard’s Mike, out of Kelly’s
wy Cli.

The latter was a dark brindle bitch, with uneven white mark-
ings, one side of her face being brindle, while the other was
white. Her weight was about twenty pounds. The head was
good, being short and blocky, while the tail was three-quarters
in length and tapered well.

Mike was of rather light brindle and white, and weighed
about twenty-five pounds. He was even mouthed, and had a
large, full eye. His tail was exceedingly short. He, like Tom,
had proved very prepotent. That this is true we have only to
look at their descendants and observe the type of head, large
eyes and short or screw tail that are continually reappearing;
so that it can fairly be said that much more is due to Tom and

BARNARD’S TOM.

Mike than to any other dogs for the establishment of the pres-
ent type of the Boston Terrier.

By this it is not meant that there were not other dogs of that
time or since who have not exercised an influence on the breed,
but only that the dogs mentioned comprised the main line, and
to them is the most credit due.

Among other dogs that were useful may be mentioned Town-
send’s Sprig, a son of Tom, out of Higginson’s Belle. Sprig was
a very small dog, weighing about twelve pounds. From Sprig
are descended most of A. L. Goode’s strain of dogs, remarkable
for their color and markings.

Another prominent dog was Ben Butler. He also was a son
of Tom, out of Barnard’s Nellie.

Other prominent stud dogs were Hall’s Max, O’Brien’s Ross,
Hook’s Punch, Trimount King, McCullen’s Boxer and Ben,
Goode’s Ned, and Bixby’s Tony; all of whom, through Bar-
nard’s Tom, or his brother, Atkinson’s Toby, trace their an-
cestry back to Hooper’s Judge.

Among the earlier bitches who proved worthy may be men-
tioned Reynolds’ Famous, dam of Gilbert’s Fun; Kelly’s Nell,
dam of O’Brien’s Ross and Trimount King; Saunders’ Kate,
dam of Ben Butler; Nolan’s Mollie, dam of Doctor, Evadne and
Nancy.

Besides the above dogs, and quite remote from them, were
several imported small dogs. These served to introduce fresh
blood into the line represented by Judge and Tom, which had
been considerably inbred up to this time.

One of these was the Jack Reed dog. He was an evenly
marked, reddish brindle and white dog, and weighed from twelve
to fourteen pounds. He had a straight three-quarter tail, but
was unfortunate in having a rather rough coat.

Another outside dog was the Perry dog. He was imported
from Scotland, and weighed but six pounds. He was of a
peculiar blue color, having some white on him. He also had a
three-quarter straight tail.

Kelly’s Brick was another outsider. He also came from the
other side. This fierce little dog was of white color, with sev-
eral black spots. His weight was from sixteen to eighteen
pounds. He had a good, large skull and an unusually large, full
eye. The tail was straight.

A fourth outsider was O’Brien’s Ben. He was a short, cobby,
low-set dog, of a white and tan brindle color. His weight was
about twenty pounds. His tail was straight and of three-quar-
ters length, carried low. He had an exceedingly short head and
was even mouthed. His breeding was unknown.

These few outside dogs were all small, and undoubtedly
helped to fix the small size of the present dog, while the con-
tinued interbreeding of the sons and daughters of Tom tended
to make the type permanent.

The above gives very briefly the main facts concerning the
older dogs of this breed, practically bringing the line down to
the present generation.

To correct an idea that has become somewhat prevalent, it
can here be stated that the dog is in no sense a fighting dog.
While he is plucky, as might be expected from his ancestry, he is
not quarrelsome.

A careful perusal of the foregoing article shows very con-
clusively that the present Boston Terrier, as he is now known
(his name some fifteen years ago having been changed from the
Boston Bull), is a result of inbreeding of the most careless or
happy-go-lucky sort, and as a consequence, even after a lapse of
thirty-five years, he continues to present himself as representing
several distinct types—so that we often have an example of the
English Bull, the true type of Boston Terrier and a pronounced
Terrier in the same litter, despite the utmost care in breeding.
This peculiarity of the breed will be more fully treated in a later
chapter.

HALL’S MAX.

CHAPTER Ii.

THE BOSTON TERRIER CLUB.

The Purposes and Objects of the Boston Terrier Club—History
of this Organization—The Work Done by the Club—
The Officers—The Specialty Show—The Constitution and
By-Laws—The Boston Terrier Standard and Scale of
Points.

IN 1890 a club was formed in Boston by the
men interested in the breeding of the Bull-
Bull Terrier cross dog, or as he was then
called, American Bull Terrier. The next
year, finding that judges at Bench Shows
would not give their dogs places in the Bull
Terrier classes, where at this time they were

entered, the club applied for admission in the American Kennel

Club and recognition for their dogs in the Stud Book. The

A. K. C. expressed their willingness to take the club under its

wings, but said that the dog was not an established breed and

could not go in the Stud Book. They also made a suggestion,
which was subsequently adopted, that as the dog was not a Bull

Terrier, and as he was then bred exclusively in Boston, a better

name would be the Boston Terrier Club. In 1893, the A. K. C.

were convinced of the merits of the breed and formally acknowl-

edged the same by admitting the Club to membership and giy-
ing their dog a place in the Official Stud Book.

The Boston Terrier Club, as its name would indicate, is
formed of breeders and lovers of this. breed. Its object is to ©
further in eve1y way possible the interests of the Boston Terrier.
It is duly incorporated under the laws of Massachusetts, and
has at present a membership of seventy-five. The club during
the past year has held regular monthly meetings, all of which
have been exceedingly interesting.

While the Boston Terrier Club is in no sense a social insti-
tution, still its interests are most carefully guarded by a member-
ship committee who investigate very carefully all applicants for
membership. The initiation is $5 and the yearly dues, payable
‘x advance, $10. Each applicant has to be imteoduced by a mem-

OSGOOD.

ber, referred to membership committee, reported on by them at
the next regular meeting, and, if favorable, then must be duly
elected by ballot.

Cups and medals are offered at most of the bench shows for
competition «mong the members. At the Ladies’ Kennel Asso-
ciation Show in 1902 a very happy departure was made by offer-
ing a cup and medal open to all exhibitors of Boston Terriers.
At the annual meeting, which was held on the second Wednes-
day of December, a number of judges are elected, and their
names are sent to the bench show committees of the principal
shows, requesting that one of their number be selected to offici-
ate as judge. This list is not absolutely confined to members
of the club, but also comprises the names of other gentlemen,
recognized either as all-round judges or as well known breeders
and experts of this particular variety.

This year (1906) the Club’s list of judges is a very excellent
one and comprises the following well known names: Joseph M.
Dale, Dwight Baldwin, T. Benson, H. D. Riley, Harry W. Lacey,
Dwight Moore, Myron W. Robinson, William J. Green, James
Mortimer, P. J. Brickley, W. H. Hanley, Alex.-Goode, M. F.
Mulcahy, A. Mulvey and F. A. Teeling.

A departure from the old methods of running the elections
was made this year. Instead of only allowing those present at
the meeting to have a vote, printed ballots were sent to all
members, who marked and returned them. The officers elected
December 13, 1905,by this system were: President, Dr. F. N.
Osgood; vice-president, Dr. George P. Morris; secretary, F. A.
Teeling; treasurer, Dwight Baldwin. The executive committee
is composed of the officers (ex-officio) and Messrs. Mark A.
Knipe, the Rev. John T. Fahey and Thomas Benson.

The Boston Terrier Club also gives a Specialty Show each
year in Boston. This show has the honor of being the largest
and in all respects the greatest of one-breed fixtures. In fact,
the Boston Terrier is the largest and one of the most important
supporters of dog shows throughout the country, and were it
not for him many of the shows, especially in New England,
would be relegated to the shelf. The shows held in this part
of the country seem almost to be Boston Terrier events, so
greatly are the entries of this breed in the majority.

Following are the Order of Business, Constitution, By-Laws
and Official Standard of the Boston Terrier Club:

ORDER OF BUSINESS.

Calling meeting to order.

Roll call.

Reading of minutes.

Reports of officers.

Reports of standing committees by seniority.
Reports of special committees.
Communications.

Applications for membership.
Election of members.

10. Election of officers.

11. Unfinished business.

12. New business.

13. Welfare of the club.

Under this heading is included remarks and debates in-
tended to promote the interests of the club and the Boston
Terrier in general.

14. Adjournment.

Pe ONG SAB

CONSTITUTION.

ARTICLE. 7:

NAME.

This Asociation shall be known as and called the Boston
TERRIER CLUB.

ARTICLE FL
, OBJECT.
The object of the club shall be to promote and encourage

the breeding and improvement of the Boston Terrier Dog, as
defined by its standard.

ARTICLE If.

MEMBERSHIP.

Section 1. Applications for membership .must be accom-

panied by the membership fee and endorsed by two members,

and made at least seven days before action by the Club, to the

secretary or a member of the membership committee, who shall
refer it to said committee for investigation.

Sec. 2. Any member can resign from the Club by sending his
resignation to the secretary in writing, and upon the acceptance
of such, all his interest in the property of the Club ceases from
the date of such resignation,

Sec. 3. Any member whose dues shall remain unpaid for one
month after the same becomes due, shall cease to be a mem-
ber, and forfeit to the Club all claims and benefits to which he
would have been entitled as a member, provided that the execu-
tive committee may consider his case, and upon sufficient cause
shown, reinstate him to membership upon payment of his dues.

ARTICLEMIY,
MANAGEMENT.

Section 1. The officers of the Club shall consist of a presi-
dent, vice-president, secretary, treasurer and an executive com-
mittee, of which three shall constitute a quorum; said committee
to consist of the above named officers and three active members
chosen by the Club.

Sec. 2. Any office vacated during the year shall be filled by
the executive committee.

Bei CWE Ne

Section 1. Nomination for officers and judges for the ensuing
year shall be made either by mail or from the floor, at a meeting
to be held in November, at least twenty days prior to the annual
meeting, the call to contain the purpose of the meeting, after
which nominations shall be closed. The secretary shall mail
a ballot containing all regular nominations to each member in
time to be voted at the annual meeting.

Src. 2. The officers of the Club shall be chosen by ballot at
the annual meeting and shall hold their respective offices for one
year or until their respective successors are elected.

Sec. 3. Mail voting shall be allowed on amendments to the
Constitution, By-Laws, Standard and Scale of Points.

Src. 4. Each member shall have the right to vote on the
election of officers and judges by mailing the official ballot duly
marked and sealed to the Secretary, and enclosed in an envelope,
which envelope shall also contain the name of the member so

voting.

ARTICLE Vi:
MEETINGS.

Section 1. There shall be meetings of the Club, at which
seven members present and voting shall constitute a quorum,
held at Boston, Mass., at such time and place as the president
may direct, but the annual meeting shall be held on the second
Wednesday in December of each year.

SPECIAL MEETINGS.

Sec. 2. A special meeting of the Club shall be called by the
president on the written application of five members in good
standing.

MR. DWIGHT MOORE.

BY-LAWS.

ARTICLE.
DUTIES OF OFFICERS.

Sad

SecTION I. President.—The president shall discharge the usual
duties of his office, preside at all meetings of the Club and of the
executive committee, call special meetings of the Club, or of the
executive committee, and enforce the provisions of the Consti-
tution and By-Laws of the Club. He may vote on amendments
to the Constitution or alteration of the By-Laws and Standard
or Scale of Points, on the expulsion or suspension of a member,
and on election of officers and judges. But on all other matters
he shall vote only on case of tie and then give the deciding vote.

Sec. 2. Vice-President——The vice-president shall discharge all
the duties of the president in the latter’s absence.

Sec. 3. Secretary.—The secretary shall have charge of all
official correspondence, keep copies of all letters sent by him,
and file such as he may receive, and correspond at the request
of the president or executive committee on all matters apper-
taining to the object of the Club. He shall keep a roll of the
members of the Club with their addresses.

He shall be exempt from payment of annual dues.

Sec. 4. The treasurer shall collect and receive all moneys
due the Club and keep a correct account of the same. He shall
pay all orders drawn on him by the executive committee out of
the funds of the Club, when countersigned by the president, and
present a repert of the condition of affairs in his department at
the request of the executive committee or president, and at the
annual meeting. The treasurer shall furnish a bond satisfactory
to the executive committee.

Sec. 5. Committees.—The executive committee shall make
all purchases ordered by the Club, audit the accounts of the
treasurer and report the same at the annual election in Decem-
ber, and transact all business not otherwise provided for.

It shall have the power to appoint sub-committees for any
special purpose, and to delegate to each sub-committee the
powers and functions of the committee relating thereto.

The president shall be the chairman of the executive com-
mittee.

Sec. 6. Sub-Committees.—The standing sub-committees shall be
a membership committee of five and a pedigree committee of three.

The membership committee shall investigate the standing of
all applicants, and report to the Club for action those names it
considers desirable as members.

The pedigree committee shall investigate the pedigrees of
those dogs offered for registration in the A. K. C. Stud Book.

The chairman of the pedigree committee shall have the cus-
tody of the Club stud book, and shall enter in *™= same the
registrations allowed by the A. K. C.

AIVICL ETE.

DISCIPLINE.

The executive committee shall have the power to discipline
by suspension a member found guilty of conduct prejudicial to
the best interests of the Club. All charges against a member
must be made in writing and filed with the executive committee
and no member shall be suspended without an opportunity to
be heard in his own defense. When the expulsion of a member
is considered advisable, the report of the committee shall be
presented to the Club, whose action shall be final.

ARLICLE ATI.

DUES.

SECTION I. The entrance fee shall be five dollars, which must
accompany the application for membership.

Sec. 2. The annual dues shall be ten dollars, payable upon
notice of election and at each annual meeting thereafter.

204) "a Ce coats

JUDGES.

SECTION I. There shall be elected by ballot each year at the
annual meeting a corps of not more than fifteen judges, a list of
whose names shall be sent to bench show committees with a
request that the judge of Boston Terriers at their approaching
shows be selected from said list. .

Sec. 2. The Club judges may exhibit, but shall not compete
at or be interested directly or indirectly in the show at which
they officiate.

ABEL IyvEe VE.

AMENDMENTS.

This Constitution and these By-Laws, and the Standard and
Scale of Points may be amended or altered by a two-thirds vote
at any regular meeting or special meeting called for that
purpose.

Notice of proposed change having been given to all members
at least ten days previous tec said meeting.

THE BOSTON TERRIER.

Standard.

The general apearance of the Boston Terrier is that of a
smooth, short-coated, compactly-built dog of medium station.
The head should indicate a high degree of intelligence, and
should be in proportion to the dog’s size; the body rather short
and well-knit, the limbs strong and finely turned, no feature
being so prominent that the dog appears badly proportioned.

The fox conveys an impression of determination, strength

and activity. Style of a high order, and carriage easy and
graceful.

Skull—Broad and flat, without prominent cheeks, and fore-
head free from wrinkles.

Stop—Well defined but indenture not too deep.

Eyes—Wide apart, large and round, neither sunken nor too
prominent, and in color dark and soft. The outside corner
should be on a line with the cheeks as viewed from the front.

Ears—Small and thin, situated as near corners of skull as
possible.

Muzzle—Short, square, wide and deep, without wrinkles.
Nose black and white, with a well-defined straight line between
nostrils. The jaws broad and square, with short, regular teeth.
The chops wide and deep, not pendulous, completely covering
the teeth when mouth is closed.

Neck—Of fair strength, without throatiness and _ slightly
arched.

Body—-Deep and of broad chest, well ribbed up. Back short,
not roached. Loins and quarters strong.

Elbows—Standing neither in or out.
Fore legs— Wide apart, straight and well muscled.

Hind legs—Straight, quite long from stifle to hock (which
should turn neither in nor out), short and straight from hock to
pastern. Thighs well muscled. Hocks not too prominent.

Feet—Small, nearly round, and turned neither in nor out.
Toes compact and arched.

Tail—Set on low, short, fine, and tapering, straight or screw,
devoid of fringe or coarse hair, and not carried above the
horizontal.

Color—Any color; brindle, evenly marked with white,
strongly preferred.

Markings—White muzzle, blaze on face, collar, chest and
feet.

Coat—Fine in texture, short, bright, and not too hard.

Weight—Light weight class 12 and not to exceed 17 pounds;
middleweight class 17 and not to exceed 22 pounds; heavyweight
class 22 and not to exceed 28 pounds.

Disqualifications—Docked tail and any artificial means used
to deceive the judge,

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General appearance and style. Io

ATKINSON’S TOBEY.

CHAPTER III.

THE BOSTON AS A SHOW DOG.

The Unique Position of the Breed as a Show Dog—The Neces-
sity of Breeding in This Variety—A Small Kennel’s
Breed—The Importance of Good Judges—The Qualifi-
cations for Judging—The Spirit of the True Fancier.

AS A show dog the Boston Terrier holds a
position in doggy America that is particu-
larly unique. It is a breed, the only breed,
that is distinctively American and conse-
quently there is no importing from England.
This fact has done much to keep this breed
from falling into the hands of the English
professional handlers, who, with one! excep-
tion, pay no attention to the variety. As it has been impossible
to import winners, it has been necessary for someone to breed
them and while there are some who still follow the buying
game so popular in other breeds, the vast majority of the Bos-
ton fancy are breeding their show stock. The success that has
attended the efforts of the Boston Terrier men and women
along these lines shows very plainly that it is possible to breed
good dogs in America and the fanciers devoted to other varieties
will do well to take the hint.

Another peculiar thing about the Boston as a show dog is
that although there are many big and very successful kennels
continually showing fine strings of dogs, still the small breeders
are also very active exhibitors. In most cases, when half a
dozen big kennels enter a breed they temporarily hurt it, for
small owners find that it is hopeless for them to show against
such competition and becoming discouraged drop out. This
lasts till the big kennel owners either discover that they have
themselves killed the goose that was laying their golden egg or
else break up their kennels. Then the small men re-enter the
fancy only to be forced out in a few years by a new lot of “big
’uns,” and so it goes on in an endless chain. With the Boston
Terrier, however, this is all different for, although there are

‘aNIM V JO HHAHL

many big owners, still the “kitchen kennels’ are also benching.
The explanation of this is to be found in the youth of the breed
and its consequent inability to breed true to type. This has
made it impossible for the wealthy fanciers to gobble up all the
good breeding stock. The present popularity of the breed seems
to foretell that by the time they do breed with accuracy there
will be so many good dogs in the country that a man would
have to have the wealth of the Indies to even start a Boston
“cormer.

The Boston Terrier is without doubt the largest supporter
of the bench shows of the country and at nine out of ten of them
he is in the very marked majority. If this may be taken as a
criterion of popularity, the breed is the rage of the day. There
are more people devoted to the breeding and showing of the
“American” dog than any cther two breeds put together, with
the possible exception of Setters and Pointers, who, while they
are largely supported in the western part of the country where
game abounds, are not very extensively bred in the East. Asa
show dog, however, the Boston is without a peer and never has
a breed so largely predominated the entries as at present this is
doing.

This being the case it is highly essential that the selection of
judges to pass upon the classes filled by this variety be most
carefully made. It is a well known fact that there are several
breeds that have been killed, as far as show dogs are concerned,
by unwise judging lists. It is more than possible that this might
happen to the Boston Terrier. What then are necessary quali-
fications for a good judge? First, he must be honest and con-
scientious. He must have had ample opportunity to study and
familiarize himself with the peculiarities of the breed and he
should be a gentleman. In the first of these requirements the
breed is very well off, for there are many devoted to it who are
as honest as the day is long and as conscientious as they are
honest. It is to be deeply regretted, however, that there are
also many in the Boston Terrier fancy whose ideals are not so
high and it is still more to be lamented that these men are often
called upon to judge. In the second requirement the Boston
Terrier stands way ahead of any other breed in this country, for
there are more Boston experts than any other. It is also un-
necessary to send abroad for men with a thorough knowledge of
the breed. In fact, our imported judges would be utterly at sea
if asked to place a hot class of Boston Terriers. That the Bos-

ton Terrier is particularly fortunate in having a great number of
true gentlemen interested in them all who study an exhibitor’s
list will know. All the requirements are so often found com-
bined in one man that it is a pity the judges are not more wisely
chosen. By the above it is not meant that those who judge to-
day are all incompetent, but that there are many who do are
not asked to pass on the breed, who would be-an improvement
on some of those who are doing this important work.

It is a very hard task for a man actually engaged in breeding
and showing dogs of any breed to pass upon them. He may be
perfectly honest, but being actively engaged in the fancy he is
bound to have many personal feelings that to a greater or less

O’BRIEN’S ROSS.

extent cannot help entering into his decisions. It is hardly fair
to expect any human being to pass upon dogs belonging to his
own rivals and competitors. He is certain to have friends and
foes in the fancy and, while he doubtless often does it uncon-
scoiusly, still his personal likes and dislikes will creep into his
awards. There are, however, many retired fanciers, who know
a Boston from his nose to the end of his short, screw tail, and

these might be asked to judge, with advantage to both the dogs
and their owners.

The hardest class to judge at any show, and the ones from
which the vast bulk of kicking comes, are those where the Bos-
ton Terrier competes for bench honors. At a first glance the
conditions that exist in these classes seems to be the outcome
of the vast popularity of the breed, which always guarantees
good large classes. While, of course, this is a factor in the dis-
satisfaction that runs riot among Boston Terrier exhibitors,
there are other features that should not be overlooked. It is a
very regretable, but, nevertheless, true, fact, that the Boston
fancy is the most materialistic one in the entire game. Nine out
of ten of the. breeders of the “American dog” are in the fancy
not for sport, but for the money that there is in it. Of course,
there is nothing criminal in being a breeder of dogs for the money
that is to be made out of the sport, nor does this stamp a man as
dishonest; but it does tend to cause kicking over judges’ deci-
sions. This is but natural, for if your dog is thrown down he
loses in value, and to those who are continually trying to sell
their dogs at as high‘ prices as possible, it is a considerable blow.
The Boston Terrier people feel that each peg lower their dog is
placed in the prize list is just so much money out of their
pockets, and, naturally, they complain.

This very materialistic view of their dogs has other bad
effects upon the Boston Terrier fancy and is conducive to many
little “tricks” that are certainly, to put it in its mildest form, a
little bit off color. There are many in the fancy who would
scorn to deal in any but the most upright manner, but there are
also many who do not scruple to resort to shady methods to
make a sale. As is always the case, the just suffer with the evil,
and unless there are some very radical changes the men who
are supposed to have the best interests of this most desirable
little dog at heart will kill the breed.

The diversity in opinion as to just the correct thing in Boston
Terriers is another question that causes considerable complaint.
The standard is notorious as not being all that it should, and
really the dog as defined in this would not stand the ghost of a
chance on the bench, even under those who are continually call-
ing out “Stick to the standard.” The youth of the breed is also
another element that makes judging difficult, for the whole of
the Boston Terrier fancy is in a growing stage and nothing is
settled. There are several other features which, in a way, seem

to justify the complaints that are daily heard among the breed-
ers of this dog, but it seems that there is a great deal of this
sort of thing that could very well be gotten along without. The
continued squabbling, scrapping, charges and countercharges
that are indulged in hurt the dogs far more than the men, and
if it continues will seriously and pre-eminently injure the Boston
Terrier. As an example: A novice likes the looks of the dog,
but on seeing the jealousies and fights that their owners are
plunged into, decides that he had better not mix up in the tur-
moil. New fanciers must be found to take the place of the old
ones that drop out, or the breed will fall off, a condition that
does not seem unlikely for the Boston, if we look ahead a few
years.

WEINER’S BESSIE.

CHAPTER IV.

BREEDING.

The Difficulties of Breeding Typical Dogs—The Keynote of
Uniformity—Breeding Hints—The Question of Mating—
Valuable Points as to Selection of the Sire—The Im-
portance of Pedigree—Care of a Stud Dog—Rational
Mating—The Bitch and Her Puppies.

IT IS safe to assume at the very outset that there
is no occupation that presents a more interest-
ing, complex and, at the same time, uncertain
proposition than the breeding of Boston Ter-
riers. The old adage, that “like begets like”
does not always apply, for, as was intimated
in the previous chapter, the results, even when
special care is exercised, are liable to be not only

disappointing, but actually ludicrous. This statement is not in-

tended to discourage prospective breeders, for it should be
coupled with the assurance that although the results are not
always calculated to inspire one with delight, yet the study
necessary and the experience gained never fail to prove most
interesting; therefore this fact should serve as an incentive and
stimulus to those about to enter the field, providing they are
guided by the right motive, namely, to breed so as to obtain the
very best possible results, not for. themselves, but for the breed.

Many rules and regulations as to breeding have been elabor-
ately set forth by numerous writers, and success attends a care-
ful following of these in most breeds; but, alas, they do not
apply to Boston Terriers. Those of us who have tried the ex-
periment can cheerfully testify that the Boston Terrier is a law
unto himself and seems adverse to complying with rules and
regulations that govern the breeding of dogs in general. Expe-
rience alone qualifies a man to advise others, irrespective of the
length of time he has been engaged in breeding Boston Terriers,
for one often attains a lot of experience in a few years, particu-
larly if he has conducted his breeding along liberal and pro-
gressive lines. Even the most skilled and careful breeder, how-

ever, cannot be perfectly sure of the results of any given mating,
no matter how much care he may have given the selection of
sire and dam.

The chief end and aim with most breeders of Boston Terriers
has been to breed and raise a winner. This is certainly a very
commendable ambition, but one very seldom realized in both de-
sires, for the temptation to sell a fine pup for a high price before
it reaches maturity is very great, and as a rule typical speci-
mens pass into other hands before they are a year old. The
breeder belonging to what might be termed the old school con-

GOODE’S BUSTER.

tinues to breed along the same old lines, and seems unwilling
to adopt any progressive methods, but of late years men with an-
other ambition have entered the ranks and are breeding, not
alone with the hope of securing a winner, but with the intention
of raising typical Boston Terriers of a higher grade and of a
more uniform type; these men are seeking enlightenment wher-.
ever it is to be found, and heartily welcome any and all sug-
gestions along the line of advancement. It is with the hope of
aiding these and assisting beginners that a few general prin-
ciples regarding the breeding of Boston Terriers are here made.

The subject of mating is an exhaustive one, but there are cer-

tain well-defined rules that if faithfully carried out, will redound
to the credit of this breed and the honor of the breeder. The
prospective sire is first to be considered. Many breeders rush
for a champion, regardless of many very important considera-
tions, several of which might most certainly prohibit his being
selected. Whilst it is true and generally accepted that the sire
does impress his personality or individually upon his offspring,
it is equally true that his ancestry is of even greater moment,
and often is the determining power. The ancestry of the bitch
is generally but erroneously considered of but little, if any, im-
portance. This is wrong, for, on the contrary, her breeding is
of the utmost importance, and good results cannot be expected
unless due weight is given this most important factor. Occa-
sionally a bitch will seem to throw pups exclusively after the sire,
they not possessing any likeness whatever to herself or to her
ancestors. Fortunate, indeed, is the breeder who possesses such
a jewel, but they are more often heard of than seen. Start, then,
with a well-bred bitch, although she herself may not be a typical
specimen, and then select as a sire a dog who is strong in points
where she is lacking, not only in himself, but in his ancestry,
for Boston Terriers are proverbially given to “throwing back”
more than any other breed. For example, if you have a bitch
that is weak in muzzle, breed her to a sire who is very strong
in this respect, but if upon inquiry you find that his strong
muzzle was an accident and that his ancesters were very weak
in muzzle, look elsewhere, for disappointment will most surely
attend. The principle is the same when, regardless of breeding
on either side, a bitch is taken to a very small dog with the full
expectation that the pups must of necessity prove small. The
fallacy of this expectation has been so often exemplified, and at
such great cost to many breeders that it need not be further
dwelt upon.

Again, a prize dog is used regardless of ancestry on either
side, simply because his prestige as a champion will give the
pups a higher market value. If we are to be influenced entirely
by mercenary motives, we had better at once relinquish the hope
of ever being able to improve the breed or of bringing credit to
-our kennels. It has been this money-making motive that has
been the curse of the breed and it is to be devotedly hoped that
no more additions of this stamp of breeders will be made to the
ranks of the Boston fancy. You should study carefully the an-
cestry of both parents and select the sire best adapted to your

needs. Then, although complete success may not always attend,
you will have the consolation that you have acted not only ac-
cording to your best judgment, but intelligently.

There are three important factors that result in weaklings
and small litters: First, the sire and dam may be too closely
related, and the deformities incident to inbreeding will appear.

TRIMOUNTAIN KING

Secondly, the sire, if popular, is often abused by overwork, and
as a result is not in a fit condition to get good pups. A stud dog
should be well nourished, have plenty of outdoor exercise, and
should be strictly limited regarding the number of services; in
no other way can we reasonably expect healthy and robust off-
spring. Too many stud dogs are kept closely confined in a

vitiated atmosphere, and are deprived of exercise in the fresh
air, which is so essential to maintaining good health. Third,
the custom of breeding a bitch twice, with one day intervening.
This custom has been handed down from the dark ages, and,
strange to relate, is still quite popular. This practice, however,
is decidedly wrong. The second mating often wholly or par-
tially destroys the benefits accrued from the first. When we
realize that the period of gestation at most is only sixty-three
days, we certainly must admit that in forty-eight hours, or two
days, nature has not been idle if conception has taken place as
a result of the first mating. The bitch, if the mating was success-
ful, has already enveloped the ovum or ova and has started the
development of the future litter. Two days are two sixty-thirds
of the entire time required for full development, hence material
progress has been made; and yet custom selects this period for
another mating. Any one who has knowledge of the anatomy
and appreciates the continuity of the uterus in its normal state
with the other generative organs cannot fail to agree that a sec-
ond service is well calculated to undo all that has been done.
In support of this theory a carefully kept record shows that in
a given number of bitches mated to a popular stud dog (who
has been strictly limited to two bitches a week) there were
larger litters end fewer misses when bred once than when mated
twice. The percentage in favor of the former is double that of
the latter, and from a physiological standpoint it is just exactly
what we should expect. Another strong argument for the gen-
eral adoption of the rule to mate only once, providing, of course,
that the union is in every way complete and satisfactory, is that
the stud dog is also greatly benefited, and as a result will most
certainly sire much stronger and healthier pups.

Many are the traditions handed down, from no one knows
where, regarding the best time during the season to breed a
bitch. Claims are made that the sex of the pups can be regu-
lated by choosing the proper time, and in consequence often too
long a time will be allowed to lapse, and as a result the breeder
imbued with this fallacy will find that he must wait another five
months. Nature is a very 1eliable guide, and as a general rule
the bitch will be in full season between the eleventh to the four-
teenth days after showing the first signs of heat and then is the
time to mate with rightful expectations of good results.

The theory entertained by many for a long time was to the
effect that the bitch determined the number of pups, whilst the

dog regulated the sex; but, unfortunately, experienced has not
yet justified this belief, and careful breeders are even now seek-
ing authentic information on this important subject.

It is a very excellent plan, when feasible, not to breed a Bos-
ton Terrier bitch at her first season unless she should be ex-
ceptionally well developed. Small ones generally have more or
less trouble in giving birth to their pups; therefore in selecting
brood bitches it is much safer to purchase those weighing not
less than fifteen pounds. Breeders argue that they will breed to

HOLLANDER’S PETER.

a very small dog if their bitch is under weight, but, as we have
seen, unless he comes from small stock this precaution is of no
avail and the bitch is lost. Pages could be written on the proper
care of a bitch about to whelp, and even then the subject would
not be fully covered, so that in this short treatise only a very
few important details can be dwelt upon. In the first place,
plenty of exercise must be given whilst in whelp, and it is a
good custom to give a small amount of raw meat every other

day during the last two weeks. When in whelp they crave all
kinds of carnivorous food, and it is to gratify them that it should
be given, and also with the hope that by satisfying this craving
to a certain extent that they will not find it absolutely necessary
to devour their pups. One week before due she should have her
bed arranged, for it is very common for them to whelp several
days ahead of time. It matters not whether she has a very little
broken straw, excelsior or an old piece of carpet in the bottom
of her box, for when she has finished whelping it must be
cleaned out, and then a permanent covering can be substituted,
according to the preference of the breeder. It is best to select
a roomy box and tack around the three sides a strip of wood
about one inch deep and about two inches from the flooring—
the object is to prevent the bitch lying close to the sides of the
box. If properly adjusted, there will always be a space just
large enough to permit a pup to crawl through in the event of
his getting behind her. This little expedient has prevented
many pups from being crushed or smothered by the bitch lying
on them. ‘The box should be placed in a reasonably warm place
and where the bitch can be free from interference. If the pro-
cess of labor goes on satisfactorily, do not disturb her, but keep
her under careful supervision. If, on the other hand, after sev-
eral hours of pain nothing is accomplished, prepare at once to
aid her by securing the services of a competent “vet.,” if you
yourself are not able to render prompt and intelligent assistance.
Many fine Boston Terrier bitches have been lost through delay,
and valuable litters of pups are often destroyed. If, on the other
hand, one pup is taken from them before their strength is de-
pleted, they will often be able to have the rest of the litter with-
out further aid. The period of whelping greatly varies with
bitches, and it is very important to be assured that each pup
soon after being born is able to secure nourishment, otherwise
he should have one of the teats placed in his mouth and held
there until able to work for himself. Bitches will seldom take
any nourishment until all is over, then plenty of warm milk or
soup seems very grateful. It is well when the bitch is undershot
or tired to cut with a pair of scissors the naval cord, leaving
about three inches attached to the pups’ abdomen. This opera-
tion must not be done too soon after birth for the cord contains
blood vessels and if these are not allowed to dry up the baby will
bieed to death. Bitches generally eat the afterbirths when al-
lowed to do so; but to my mind it is just as well to limit the

supply, providing it is a fairly large litter, by burning most of
them.

After the lapse of twenty-four hours the bitch can be fed
with strong soup and well-soaked stale bread; meat in small
quantity can be gradually given. If the litter is large or the
milk supply seems inadequate, oatmeal and milk should be
freely given. On the second day the bitch should be taken out
for a short time, but not kept long from her pups, lest they be-
come chilled. If the pups are quiet and nurse well, it is a very

CH. ROXIE.

good indication that matters are progressing nicely, but if they
are continually crying it is an evidence that they are either cold
or hungry. In the former case more heat must be supplied, and
in the latter the milk supply must be increased. When possible,
it is an excellent idea to have two bitches due to whelp within
a day or so of each other; in such an event, if the service of a
foster mother, even temporzrily, should be indicated, you have
one atshand. Some bitches have plenty of milk the first twenty-
four hours, whilst with others the full supply is very slow in
coming. The former condition is more apt to exist when the
bitch has gone her full time, and the latter when somewhat
previous. —

About the ninth or tenth day the pups will begin to oper
their eyes, and much trouble is obviated if they are kept in a
place guarded from the rays of the sun, so that they may become
gradually accustomed to the light. Some breeders declare that
if their pups live to be three days old they never have further
trouble, but it is the experience of all others that the pups will
require careful watching; that does not mean handling, for there
is nothing so injurious as lifting them up for inspection and for
the admiration of one’s friends. Leave them severely alone until
they are able to trot around and thus exhibit themselves.

When the pups are three to four weeks old the process of
weaning is in order. Sometimes one or more of the pups at this
age will show symptoms of being infested with worms; if so, it
is advisable to take active measures towards their relief prior to
weaning by the administration of a vermifuge. Even at this
young age it is surprising to see the masses of worms that are
thrown out. Ordinarily it is best to wait until the pups are six
or seven weeks old before employing these measures, but if
symptoms appear no time should be lost. I prefer the capsules
rather than the liquid vermifuge, for in the former instance the
actual dose is known, whilst in the latter, despite the utmost
care, part of it is lost during its administration.

When you begin to wean your pups, do so by giving them
scalded milk with one-third water. Generally it is sufficient to
push the pup’s nose into the pan of warm milk, for he then licks
his chops and soon realizes where and how to obtain more.
This is particularly true if the mother has been kept away from
them for several hours. One such meal should be given once a
day for three days, then twice or three times, and by that time
the milk supply of the mother wil gradually begin to diminish,
and she will remain away of her own accord, so that the pups
will have to rely entirely on artificial nourishment. Four times
a day is often enough to feed them. After a week their diet
can be changed to shredded wheat and stale bread, soaked first
in milk and finally in soup. There are several forms of puppy.
food on the market, and when properly soaked and prepared ac-
cording to directions make a very handy method of furnishing
nourishment. It goes without fear of contradiction that when
you begin to wean the pups your experience is under full head-
way. Much will now depend upon the care and judgment you
exercise, and should failure be your lot, I can only urge the good
old precept, “Try, try again.”’

CHAPTER V.

EDUCATING A BOSTON TERRIER.

The Characteristics of Boston Terriers—Their Intelligence—
A Practical Demonstration—Housebreaking—Teaching
Them to Be Watchful—Discipline—Some of the Special
Advantages of the Breed.

THE SPECIAL .characteristics of the Boston
Terrier may be summed up by stating that for
a loving, faithful and all-round companion he
cannot be excelled. He is a small, short-
haired dog, of a decidedly sporty appearance,
intelligent to a very marked degree, kind and
affectionate, yet fully capable, should occasion
require, of taking not only very good caré of

himself, but also of his master or mistress.

Some years ago the idea was credited among misguided and
misinformed persons that the Boston Terrier, although he was
a handsome and an expensive dog, could not be taught like other
dogs. In other words, that he was naturally stupid, and could
only look pretty when on dress parade. At first the author did
not give the matter any special consideration, for he did not
own one, but within a year he saw a pup a little over six months
old, and the degree of intelligence that was manifested in his
beautiful eyes prompted him to purchase the little fellow and
deciding to test the matter as to his ability of absorbing knowl-
edge. He was a son of Ch. Monte, ex Murphy’s Lottie. He
was named Muggy Dee, and at once introduced into the home,
breaking him to the house, which, as is usual with this breed, was
very easily accomplished, for they are naturally cleanly in their
inclinations. By easy stages he was taught various tricks and
accomplishments, and it was amazing the facility with which
he became proficient. Before he was nine months old he could
perform some of the most difficult feats, and was always ready
and anxious to display his knowledge. This experience certainly
of itself refutes the calumny placed upon the breed by those
either ignorant of the possibilities or too indifferent to test the
matter.

Since then the author has owned several hundred Boston
Terriers, and must honestly confess that collectively they have
proved the most intelligent, observing and discriminating of all
breeds he has ever been interested in. They seem to possess
remarkable reasoning powers, and use them on every possible
occasion. In order to develop these attributes their education
must begin when they are young, and they should be so placed
that without any special effort their senses are unconsciously de-
veloped. Hence it is well never to attempt to raise pups in large
kennels, for the reason that their life there would of necessity
be the same from day to day, and the opportunity of brain de-
velopment would be materially restricted. A far better plan is
to find a small family, who for a consideration, will take them
to board, and who will permit them ample opportunity of exer-
cising around the house and playing with the children.

In this way they develop mentally and physically. Pups un-
der such conditions virtually grow in grace, and when six or
eight months old are housebroken, affectionate and in full pos-
session of their mental faculties, ready to be further educated in
the higher branches of canine learning, and shortly are fitted to
take their rightful position as an important member of the fam-
ily in one of the homes of the “Four Hundred.”

When a purchaser seeks a dog probably the first query will
be, “Is he housebroken?” Generally the reply is, “Perfectly.”
Now, this may be correct so far as the experience of his pre-
vious owner is concerned, but it is not the proper reply to give
unless we know positively that the prospective owner thoroughly
appreciates the correct handling and care necessary when intro-
ducing a dog into a new home. It is, therefore, much better to
modify the reply and to give explicit directions, which, if carried
out, will often save much trouble and annoyance for both parties.
Let us suppose, as an example, that you have just purchased a
pup five or six months old, and that he has no special recom-
mendations as to cleanliness. You naturally desire, as quickly
as posible, to break him to the house. The directions given
below will apply to a greater or less degree to every breed of
dog you may take into your home. It will depend upon his pre-
vious habits as to how long you will be obliged to exercise a
strict supervision. )

In the first place he should have had a good run before being
brought into the house, where of necessity everything will prove
strange and will tend to make him more or less nervous. The

strangeness of a new home, new people, etc., will often make an
old and ordinarily well-trained dog forget himself, so the rule
holds good in all cases. After fondling and petting him to a
limited extent take him into a corner of the room previously
prepared with a rug or pillow, and tie him up with a fairly short
leash or chain. Remain with him for some time until he has
tired of gazing around and has of his own accord lain down, ap-
parently to sleep. If, when you leave him, he should cry, or
even be inclined to be noisy, appear suddenly and reprove him by
speaking quickly and sternly, telling him to lie down or keep

DRUID VIXEN.

quiet. He wili quickly obey, for the same words have been
frequently used in his early training. In about two or three ,
hours you should ask him, “Do you want to go out?” and when
at the length of his chain he has manifested his willingness, take
him on the chain to the door leading to the yard, and, if in-
closed, let him loose to remain out as long as may be necessary.
When you take him in he can be allowed to follow you through
the house without a chain, and for a gradually extended time be
kept free to frolic about. He should be taught that his corner
belongs to him, and that when you say, “Go to your corner,” he

>
must obey. Prompt obedience should be demanded on all occa-
sions and if this rule is enforced much care and trouble will be
avoided.

The housebreaking of a dog will be greatly facilitated and
simplified if one, and only one, member of the family assumes the
whole charge of the dog, and when that person is not present
the dog should be tied in his corner. This methodical care
should be persevered in for several days, and the result will
never fail to prove perfectly satisfactory.

Remember one thing, namely, always let your dog out the
FIRST thing in the morning and the VERY LAST thing at
night. Have his chain quite short at night, and he will be much
less likely to offend. Once he learns the way out and the habits
required of him he will very quickly adapt himself to them, and
should he then offend in the house in any way it will be due
either to his not being well or to negligence on the part of the
one having him in charge. Regular exercise and opportunity
to relieve himself will prevent a repetition. If caught in the
act he should be punished not with a strap or a cuff, but se-
verely scolded. Bear in mind that a Boston Terrier is a very
affectionate animal, and hence exceedingly sensitive. Speak
quickly, looking very stern, straight in his eyes, and he will feel
it most keenly; strike him and you will either cow him or he
will, if old enough, resent it by becoming surly. It is seldom
necessary to administer other than a rebuke in order to convince
him that he has offended and displeased you, and he will show his
sorrow most decidedly. Having convinced him of his wrong-
doing, send him to his corner and make him remain there in
disgrace for a short time; then call him to you, and, after again
expressing your surprise, but more mildly, gradually make up
to him, and you will be greatly pleased at his attempts to regain
his former position in your affection. After he has been a
member of your household for a couple of weeks he will of his
own accord make known his desire to go out, should occasion
require oftener than is his usual custom, by going to the door
and by otherwise making the fact known. Whenever he does
so do not fail to respond, and thus not only enable him to re-
lieve himself, but to assure him that you approve of his actions.

Make a companion of your dog, study his peculiarities of
temperament the same as you would a child you were about to
instruct; talk “dog talk” to him and he will all the more quickly
learn what you mean. For the information of novices I would

OAKMOUNT BUD.

state that “dog talk” resembles very closely the same vocabulary
you would employ when speaking to a babe in the arms, coupled
with endearing terms, and with a rising inflection of the voice,
the combination forming a language of its own, peculiarly
adapted and very intelligent to the canine race.

If for any reason you think your dog has offended in any
place or places in the house it will be well to place a little to-
bacco or pepper at these spots, and you can be assured that he
will avoid them in the future.

To sum up the requirements of housebreaking and tabulate
them in rule form:

First—Let your dog have one master or mistress who will
keep the dog under supervision during a reasonable period of
probation. ;

. Second—Fasten him up when it is not convenient to watch
him.

Third—Always take him out immediately upon letting him
loose, leading him through the house the first few days.

Fourth—Let him out at regular intervals during the day, and
always the first thing in the morning and as late as possible at
night.

Fifth—Tie him up at night with a short chain or leash.

Sixth—If you would have your dog cleanly in his habits love
him. Treat him with due consideration, and do not expect or
try to exact impossibilities.

When we consider what grand watchdogs Boston Terriers are
when properly handled, it is more than surprising that they are
not kept in every house where valuables are at hand and where
the lives of the occupants are often at the mercy of midnight
prowlers. When we desire a dog to be watchful it does not
necessarily imply that he is to be savage and tear strangers
promiscuously to pieces, but that he should simply be on the
alert when we are sleeping the sleep of the just. Here is where the
discrimination and discernment of this breed is clearly exem-
plified, for when properly trained your dog will not arouse the
whole household should, perchance, a member of your family re-
main out rather late at his club, for the dog will recognize him:
even though the step be a little off at times, and will simply
welcome by quiet manifestations the pilgrim’s safe return. If
you leave your dog loose at night he will show his breeding and
good sense, and working on the principle that “the best is none
too good,” will select a soft pillow on the sofa, coiling himself up

and thus invite Morpheus to reign supreme. On the contrary, if
you will fasten him by a fairly short leash in the hall
at the head of the stairs, obliging him to sleep on an old piece
of carpet, he will quickly consider himself on duty, and will
promptly notify you of any unusual or strange sounds that may
emanate from below. This post of vantage fairly controls the
advance of any burglar, for a small dog’s bark or baby’s cry is
most dreaded by Bill Syke’s fraternity, and they will quickly
seek another house. This is also the proper place for the dog
when the family is down in the dining-room at dinner, and if
the doors of the rooms are left open you need have no fear of
second-story artists.

‘LORD DERBY.

{t is natural for Boston Terriers to be watchful if given half
a chance, consequently you must not overfeed your dog, for we
well know that a glutton sleeps soundly. If you wish him to
prove a faithful and thoroughly reliable guardian give him a
hearty meal for breakfast and only a tidbit for supper. In other
words he should indulge his sleeping ability at odd times during
the day, so that at night, with an empty stomach, his brain will
be clear and his senses acute.

The best way to quickly develop these watching propensities
is to test them from time to time. Begin the very first night by
providing an entertainment for him, and never fail to respond
by appearing in the hall should he bark as if he had reason to do

so. One plan is to have a string run from the bedroom down
through one of the openings of the banisters and attached to the
other end a piece of wood, which should be concealed in a
closet or behind a door. When all have retired and stillness
reigns supreme give the cord a few pulls, just enough to make
a slight noise in the hall below. If your dog jumps up and
barks, go out and let him loose, and he will run down stairs to
the seat of the disturbance. Go down with him, encouraging
him and showing him that he is doing right by saying, “Go for
him, find ‘him, boy,” etc. After a few minutes you can both re-
turn; reward him with praise and petting, and then, after fasten-
ing him up, retire to your room. This can be repeated very late
the same night, should you chance to wake up, and the pro-
gramme continued each night for a week, various changes being
made from time to time.

If you will promptly jump out of bed when he sounds an
alarm and listen with him for a few minutes he will quickly
catch on to the idea that if he wants you he has simply to bark.
There is a marked distinction between a bark and a whine, and .
while the former demands an immediate response the latter
should be as quickly suppressed by a good scolding and by
calling out, “Lie down,” or-“Be quiet, sir.”

We will now suppose that you have tested your dog quite
thoroughly with the cord end wood, and that he is quick to
respond. If you desire to continue this method vary it by
having the cord on the outside of the house so that the wood
will serve as a “tick tack”? on one of the windows of the lower
floor, and when this method has been exhausted ask the night
watchman once or twice a week to shake the front or back door
just to make sure that you dog is wide awake to his responsi-
bilities. A good watch dog is of much more practical value
than any burglar alarm that was ever invented, but as has been
stated before, in order that he shall prove thoroughly reliable
you must be ready and willing to at all times get out of your
warm bed in response to his summons. If, however, you will
not do your share he will tire of doing his duty and in the time
of real danger will be as useless as a wooden idol. Many instances
might be cited where houses marked for looting have been thus
successfully protected, and the neighbors have paid the penalty for ~
not also possessing so reliable a burglar alarm.

Now, remember that you are not to get up to interview a
housebreaker, for none will be there, but solely to encourage

your dog and to assure him that he has done his duty splendidly.
The burglars will make tracks just as soon as they hear your dog,
and will give your house a wide berth in the future. Let the
dog loose and urge him to bark and go down with him to the
place from whence the noise came. He will lead the way, and,
realizing that you are interested, will manifest extra vigilance in
the future. Thus you will be able to keep away unpleasant,
nocturnal visitors without the necessity of ever receiving them.

Study the temperament of your dog just the same as if you
were about to impart valuable information to a child, and apply

REMLIK BONNIE

much the same tactics to enforce attention and strict obedience
as you would with a baby. It is well to have a distinguishing
whistle when you call him, always using the same notes, for
then he will not be inclined to start for any one using another
call. Exercise him regularly and consistently, and avoid over-
feeding. A house dog should never have all he can eat at any
one meal, for his digestion would very soon be seriously im-
paired. Avoid sweets of every kind, for there is'nothing you
can give him that will tend more quickly to cause acute gastritis,
foul breath and decayed teeth.

In purchasing a dog buy from a reliable party, and be sure

that your dog comes from a healthy atmosphere. Remember
that you cannot find absolute perfection in the points of any
dog, particularly in Boston Terriers; therefore, be prepared to
sacrifice some show excellencies for true merit, unless you are
prepared to pay a very high price. A good specimen always
commands a fair value, for the demand far exceeds the supply,
so you must be prepared to pay something for your pet. Always
buy a good one, rather than to purchase a dog of doubtful
breeding, whose chief recommendation is his low price. In the
former instance you will have a dog that from the beginning
will prove a handsome, valuable and sporty acquisition to your
household, while in the latter case you are bound to daily be-
come more and more dissatisfied with him, and, acting upon the
advice of your friends, will eventually either relegate him to
the stable or dispose of him at a loss.

Purchase one from nine to eighteen months old, and one
that has had the distemper. He is then old enough: to at once
become a true companion, and the lability of serious illness
would be reduced to a minimum. A finely bred Boston Terrier,
with proper care, should live to the age of ten or twelve years.
Some live much longer without becoming infirm, but the above
statement as to their longevity is a fair average. Through care-
lessness or indifferent training many are killed by accident.
This factor should always be borne in mind when ‘exercising
your dog in the city streets, and he should have special training
if you live in a large town.

Boston Terriers are not aggressive to other dogs, hence the
injuries sustained as a result of fighting are very few and far
between. As a companion for ladies they are peculiarly adapted,
being very easy to get under perfect control, able to enjoy no
end of petting, and are always ready, should the occasion
require, to prove their true allegiance to their mistress.

Space will not admit of further discussion as to the merits of
Boston Terriers, and as the best teacher is experience you had
best get a good specimen of the breed and learn for yourself
their many good qualities. When you desire a sporty canine
companion of unusual intelligence, devotion and reliability do
not fail to purchase the very best Boston Terrier you can afford,
providing you are attracted by him and he in turn shows an
affnity for you, and if, at the end of a month, you are not
willing to confess him the best dog you ever owned you will be
an exception to the rule.

CHAPTER VI.

BUYING A DOG.

How to Select a Dog—Remarkable Intelligence of the Boston
Terrier—Each Dog’s Peculiarities and Characteristics—
The Best Way to Buy—Reputable Dealers—“Over Dis-
temper”—Some Advice on Veterinarians—The Dog. vs.
the Bitch as a Companion.

] THE QUERY is often heard, “Why are Boston
Terriers so sought after as household pets,
and why are they so expemsive?” In the
first place, as stated in the previous pages,
being a very handsome and sporty looking
short-haired dog, they are peculiarly adapted
for our homes. Coupled with this, they are
of a very affectionate disposition and possess an even tempera-
ment. As an all-round companion they appeal most forcibly to
all lovers of dogs, for whilst they are not aggressive, still should
circumstances so require they are fully capable and willing to take
care of themselves or their masters.

As to the second query, it is readily answered by stating
that the demand for well-bred and house-broken Boston Terriers
far exceeds the supply. The reason for this is not only be-
cause they are so highly appreciated, but because they are very
difficult to raise. It may seem a strange statement to make, but
it is none the less true, that about 65 per cent. die at birth or
prior to reaching maturity, and generally the best in a litter are
the ones that are lost. This, however, is not an exclusive pecu-
liarity of the breed for all deg fanciers know that “the good die
young” and it is always the best of the lot that passes away.
Hence their very scarcity keeps up the prices. It is true that
poor specimens are often sold for the proverbial “song,” but
the writer is dealing in this little volume with only the correct
type of pedigreed stock, and has no use for “Yah Hoo’s” and
“Muts.” .The question is also asked, “Are. they intelligent?”
The reply is that under careful instruction they can be taught
any known trick quite as readily as any other breed; they
possess peculiar reasoning power, and whilst they not only be-

come devotedly attached to their owner and members of the
household, still also prove faithful and intelligent guardians.
Experience justifies the writer in stating that for a house pet
and boon companion, in doors and out, the Boston Terrier can-
not be excelled. Is it then a wonder that they are the most pop-
ular dog in the country, for human experience is apt to be very
similar and there are hundreds who would say the same.

Now, if you are of the same mind or open to conviction
follow these directions and you will avoid imyosition and will
secure a good specimen of this breed.

It has already been stated that this breed is not readily
raised, particularly when the attempt is made to rear puppies
in a kennel, so it may truthfully be stated that the Boston Ter-
rier is in no sense a kennel dog, hence only small kennels are
needed; for until a pup is twelve months old he must be boarded
with a family who is paid to raise him. This information may
be used when buying by remembering that the best dispositioned
dogs are in the smaller places.

As a general rule purchasers are advised not to buy other
than full grown dogs, for the reason that, despite the best care,
so many pups die before they are one year old. Whilst it is
true that all dogs do not have to go through distemper in one
of its many forms, it is equally certain that Boston Terriers are
peculiarly liable to contract it in its most fatal phase and
quickly succumb to its ravages. Although a grown dog natur-
ally costs more money, you will be amply repaid for the outlay
if you know that it has had the distemper, is thoroughly house-
broken, under good command and ready to prove a boon com-
panion. Only those who have been through a seige of dis-
temper can know what it means, and if buyers realized this they
would not get a dog who has not had the disease.

Each dog has his special characteristics and individuality; so
when about to make a selection, always choose the dog that
appeals to your eye and seems responsive to your advances, for
he will give you the best satisfaction, all other details, such as
price, age, etc., being equal. Reference is not being made to
show dogs, but to highly bred dogs suitable for household pets.
Naturally, the breeding of the dog should be considered, for
“like begets like,’ and as intelligence is a most important
factor we can only be certain to obtain it when the record of
the ancestors justifies the expectation.

A perusal of the foregoing leads us very naturally to realize
the importance of dealing with only the most reliable parties,
who have dogs to sell, otherwise no dependence can be placed
upon the pedigree, personal history or habits of the dog. Again,
it is very essential, if you desire to avoid unpleasant conse-
quences, to secure a dog that has been brought up under good
sanitary conditions, and not one that has been neglected and
only “conditioned” to sell at a bench show. As to the best
markings, that is simply a matter of preference; the same will
refer to the kind of tail; these two features often govern or regu-
late the price, and if you want a dog with perfectly even mark-
ings and just the correct kind of screw tail you must be

DAZZLER.

prepared to pay a good round price. These two are very hard
points to get in perfection and consequently dogs possessing
them command good prices. Remember this one essential fact
in selecting a dog, namely, that it is almost an utter impossibility
for a man to find a dog as near perfect as any of the great
cracks; but should you do so he will command almost any price.
Therefore, seck not perfection, for one is almost unattainable,
for when you examine a number of dogs you will discover that
some are strong in the head, others nice in the tail; some a
a good deal off in markings, others decidedly bully in shoulders,
etc., etc. Your search should result finally in acting upon the
advice already given, namely, to take the dog that attracts you,

and nine times out of ten you will have made no mistake, for
very quickly the affinity that led you to making the choice will
have developed and both dog and owner will be more than sat-
isfied. If you are looking for a bench specimen it will be wiser
to take a good judge, whom you trust, and let him pick for
you, for no book can teach the fine points of a breed. Would-
be puchasers, owing to living in a distant city, cannot always
exercise this choice, and must depend upon this duty being
performed by a friend or rely entirely on the honesty and
judgment of the parties who offer the dog for sale. Here
again rises the importance of dealing with a reputable kennel,
one whose prestige, already secured through honest and reliable
methods, would prove a certain guarantee of satisfactory
treatment.

It is a safe statement to make that a Boston Terrier who has
had distemper is worth double at eight months old what one is
who has the disease in anticipation. Like scarlet fever among
children, distemper is very liable to prove disastrous to the dog,
even though it is not actually fatal. Deafness is one of the
sequels to be dreaded; chorea, similar in its manifestations to
St. Vitus dance; partial or total blindness, various skin diseases
and other after effects, any of which might very properly
prompt you to put the dog out of his misery often follow this
dreaded illness. When selecting a dog, unles you have perfect
confidence in the seller, try and verify his statement if he states
that the dog really has had this disease. Unfortunately, how-
ever, distemper will sometimes afflict the dog twice, and
although the second attack is not generally as severe, still in ex-
ceptional cases it is very acute and more likely to become asso-
ciated with pneumonia, with which complication it is generally
fatal. These second attacks naturally tend to discredit the
statement of the seller, therefore it is best, when possible, to
have his claim investigated and confirmed. The seller labors
under another disadvantage, for if the dog is taken sick a month
or so after being sold, and a veterinary, well-posted on horses
and cattle, but never having had any experience with Boston
Terriers, is called in, at once proceeds on general principles to
proclaim the dreaded fact that the dog has distemper, when in
reality he has only a slight cold or his digestion is for the time
being somewhat impaired. You will need not only the best
“vet.” you can obtain, but one who is thoroughly honest and
above the contemptible practices of some who adorn (?) that

profession. It has been the custom of some of these latter to
share or limit their responsibility by stating emphatically that
the dog was undoubtedly a sick dog when purchased, although
several weeks or even months have elapsed since the animal
changed hands. Some will go further, by declaring that the
dog had always been an invalid, thus discrediting the seller re-
gardless of his reputation for honest dealing. Possibly they
think that such an occult demonstration will add to their im-
portance, when, as a matter of fact, an intelligent person will

DRUID MERK.

quickly realize that it is a subterfuge pure and simple, and al-
though prompted by profound ignorance is none the less dis-
quieting to the purchaser and unjust to the seller. Men of this
stamp have done much harm to reputable kennels and have
spread abroad the idea that all dog men are robbers.

It would be a boon to all parties concerned if the custom to
have every dog regularly examined and certified to by a com-
petent “vet.” prior to a sale being consummated, the would-be
purchaser to select the veterinary, were in vogue.

Fortunately, however, there are in most of our large cities a
number of very competent and honest veterinaries, who have
made a special study of the dog and are fully capable to render
prompt and efficient aid in time of need. Should your dog be
ill and really need the services of a “vet.” try and secure one of
these, so that the proper diagnosis can be made. The treatment
in most cases is so simple that it is a secondary consideration.
First and foremost you want to know what the trouble is, and
nursing, proper nourishment, with a modicum of drugs, will do
the rest.

Now, to sum up, purchase as good a Boston Terrier as you
can possibly afford; use good judgment in selecting him; buy
only from a responsible party, and once obtaining the dog take
good care of him by exercising common sense in regulating his
eating and habits.

Persons often write to know ete much cheaper a bitch is
than a male dog. The reply is that if they possess the same
degree of excellence, as to show points there is practically no
difference in the market value as applied to the Boston Terrier,
but when they are champions, naturally the dog is of greater
value. Again, we are asked which sex is best for a house pet.
This is a very hard question to answer when the query is made
about Boston Terriers, for they cannot help being of a most
affectionate disposition, but there is no denying the fact that
- the females are the most trusting and clinging, possibly not so
pronounced in their enthusiasm or open in their manifestations
of affection, but have a way all their own of showing their deep
love for their owner. It is true that when kept simply as pets
they must be cared for twice a year. This is the only objection
that can be urged against them, and that is readily provided for
by sending them to pass those weeks at some well-appointed
kennel, where they will not only receive the best of care, but
be absolutely safe. We all know that a dog will often wander
beyond certain prescribed limits in the company of other dogs,
whilst his sister could not be coaxed out of the yard. Accord-
ingly there is less likelihood of your losing a bitch. If you desire
to breed, always select a bitch that is rather long in the body,
whose breeding is of the best, and mate her along sensible lines,
which are fully brought out in the chapter on breeding. It
matters not which sex you select for house pets providing you
love them, for with Boston Terriers love is very contagious.

“ALNOW NIVLIdVO

CHAPTER VII.

THE CARE OF A DOG.

AS IT has been our aim and purpose to make
this little book practical and useful to all
classes of Boston Terrier owners, we will
give briefly a few directions, for the benefit
of the novice, as to the care of a house dog.

a The foundation of health, in dogs, as well

as humans, is the stomach, and we will therefore first con-

sider the cardinal principles of feeding. It is safe to say
that a vast majority of dogs kept as household pets are overfed,
and as a natural result they take on a superabundance of flesh
and become lazy and indolent. In order that the dog should
always be “up and coming” he should be fed lightly. In
other words, he should be kept in a condition to relish any-
thing that is put before him. Dogs are proverbially like children
in that they will eat until they absolutely cannot take in another
mouthful, then lie down and in the blissful ignorance of sleep
patiently awaiting the pain of colic and its attendant sorrows,
which, however, do not deter them from repeating the same
folly the very next time that opportunity affords. They lack
discretion and method and you must therefore use discretion
for them, acting much as you would if trying to raise a child.

Regulate carefully the amount of food given by the amount of

exercise that the dog has taken, varying each day to fit the

needs of the moment.

It is a gocd idea to weigh your dog from time to time, and
having ascertained what his weight ought to be to increase or
decrease the quantity of fcod given, so as to keep him in the
best posible condition. In hot weather, or after a day when
rain and storm has forced him to loll around the house, do not
feed him as much as you would under other circumstances. If,
on the other hand, it is the dead of a cold winter, or-you have

had the dog cut for a long walk and he has other hard work or
exercise, increase his portion slightly. Many people expect their
dog to run for miles after their trap and still provide him with
no extra food. The result is that the dog is in a continually
half-starved state, bolts his food, and in his weakened condition
ruins his digestion. It might be well to say here that it is
possible to go to either extreme and one is as bad as the other.
Neither the dog that is so fat that he can hardly waddle or the
dog that is famished is in true health. His ribs are a very good
indication of the condition that he is in and they should be just

OPAL.

visible, not noticeable. In order to secure this condition, or
even good health, your dog’s stomach must be in perfect order
and the best way to keep his stomach in order is to watch care-
fully what goes into it.

Table scraps, while they are not the best food in the world,
- still they will keep a dog in good health if they are carefully at-
tended to. Nine out of ten of the dogs that are kept in the city
are used as a sort of vulture to clean up what is left on the plates
after each meal, a system that is convenient if not productive
to the best health of the dog. In all the big kennels of the

country the dogs receive but one meal a day and if that 4s
enough to keep these dogs, who get a great deal of systematic
exercise, in the pink of condition it is certainly sufficient to keep
a house pet in the same state. With some owners it is the
custom to feed a big meal at night, while others do this in
the morning, which seems to be the better time. The morning
meal may consist of scraps, cut up fine and well mixed. This
should be done for a double purpose of preventing bolting and
affording a chance to have the food when it reaches the stomach
of being already mixed. It will also be found a good cure for
those dogs who are in the habit of picking and choosing their
food. This is generally the result of bad bringing up, though
too often overfeeding and consequent lack of appetite is also
liable to make a dog fastidious. Meat, fish (carefully boned),
cereals, vegetables (except potatoes), and bread all make good
things to feed.

Soups and gruels alternated with dog biscuits should make
up the evening meal or lunch. There are half a dozen different
kinds of dog crackers on the market and any of the reliable
brands are good. The makers of these foods are loud in their
praise and extravagant in their claims for them, but long prac-
tice has found that they are not a good thing to give a dog as a
steady diet. There is a great temptation to do this, especially if
one is not keeping house for they are cheap and handy, but the
practice is not to be encouraged. ;

The one thing that above all others causes sorrows, sickness
and pain to city dogs is the feeding of sweets. I wish that the
publishers of this book would allow to have printed in bold type
the warning, “Don’t feed candy,” but this they will not permit,
so I will have to be content with making that warning as strong
as I can in one short paragraph. There are more dogs that die
and suffer from candy eating, I am speaking now of pet dogs
only, than from any other half a dozen causes. Candy destroys
the desire for real, good, nourishing food, it ruins the stomach
and digestion, and it rots the teeth, and yet hundreds of well-
meaning, kind-hearted perscns who would not willingly cause
a dog so much as a fear make them suffer untold agonies, just
because they have not strength of mind enough to see a dog beg
for what is as bad for them as poison. Here again a dog’s sim-
ilarity to.a child may be seen, for they all dearly love candy, and
once given a taste of it will never cease to beg for it. Of course,
it is hard to refuse them, but is it not better to do so than to

have the dog’s health and comfort destroyed for life? Oh! if
they only knew what discomfort, what pain, candy causes there is
not a dog lover in the United States that would ever give a dog
a taste of sweets.

I would not for a moment have my readers think, as they
may after reading the foregoing pages, that the Boston Terrier
is a difficult dog to feed properly, and they are not, for what has
been advanced will apply equally well to any breed of dogs.

[<omeeee eee ans ecceusactamenn

SWELL.

All that it has been my intention to do is to make a plea that
the dogs be fed along common sense lines. You surely ought
to be wiling to exercise due care and take a little trouble for
your dog, not alone because of his intrinsic value, but also for
his own sake.

Another thing that should be brought up while we are on
the subject of feeding is that of giving a bone to the dog. Nearly
every author who has dipped his pen in ink to write on doggy

matters has advised that a bone be given to the dogs to play with
and gnaw on, but many of them have failed to warn that not
all kinds of bones are good for this purpose. Chicken bones
should never be given to a dog, for they are easily cracked with
the teeth and a splinter swallowed may do a world of harm. A
bone splinter in the stomach or the intestines has often caused a
good dog’s death and the chances of such an accident are too
great to make it advisable to give chicken bones. A big shin
bone, with the joint attached to it makes a very good thing to
give a dog to chew on and play with. There is absolutely no
virtue in an cld soup bone that has all the good boiled out of
it, besides these are soft and can be broken by a strong dog.

By nature the Boston Terrier is a playful dog, if he were not
he would not enjoy that popularity that is his, and it is well that
he be given something to play with while in the house. For this
purpose there is nothing in the world so good as an old shoe.
Let him have this and see that it is always kept in a certain
place and you will have little difficulty:in training him to use
that and that alone for his frolics. If he*should happen to take
a fancy to a rug or some cther article around the house, take
him away from it and give him the shoe. A few repetitions
of this will teach him the purpose of his plaything and generally
you will have no further trouble with him. If, however, he
persists in his wrong-doing, tie him up on a short chain when
he is caught in mischief and it will not take him many weeks to
come to associate the confinement with the destructiveness. In
extreme cases a little tobacco or tobasco sauce placed on the
articles he plays with will prove an effective cure. Do not place
too much of the punishment on the things for you do not want
to make him sick, only to afford a surprise that will prove
lasting.

Next to food the most important thing in the well keeping
of a dog is exercise. Although this subject has been touched
upon in previous pages, still it will bear repetition and amplifica-
tion. We all know that if we are to keep ourselves in good
health we must indulge in at least a certain amount of exercise,
and this same rule holds: equally good with the lower members
of the animal kingdom.

A dog’s exercise may be divided into two classes, the first
a simple airing to give a chance for the animal to relieve him-
self. For this purpose a closed in yard is all that is needed. It
is not sufficient, however, to let your dog out in the yard to

play all by himself, for as soon as the necessities of nature
have been complied with, he will come to the door and crouch-
ing down wait to be admitted. In the warm months this may
cause no harm, but in winter, with ice, rain and snow, the
climatic conditions, he quickly becomes chilled, catches a cold
and becomes a fit subject for pneumonia or other ills. Another
reason why the owner should watch the dog while he is out in
the yard is that by observing his passages a very good idea of
his condition may be formed. In no other way can you so
quickly detect that something is not quite right than by this

SIRDAR.

observation. Should he be constipated or unduly relaxed, a
slight change in diet may remedy the trouble and avert a serious
illness.

In addition to his airing your dog should have at least an
hour’s walk in the open each day. This is an important part of
his life, not only as an aid to digestion and exercise, but also
as a pleasure to you, for you will come to enjoy the walks with
your canine friend and the benefit that it will do your health
will also be considerable. If you are to enjoy to the fullest
extent this feature of your dog you should get a dog weighing

somewhere between fifteen and twenty-two pounds. If» you
get a dog that is smaller than that you will naturally have to
lift him in and out of cars and carriages and, unless you want
to risk the chance of having him maimed or killed, you will
have to keep him on a lead. If, on the other hand, he is a big
dog he will be too large to go on the cars or in your brougham,
and on many other occasions you will find that he takes up too
much room. Therefore, so as not to have him burdensome,
select a medium sized specimen, a good all-round dog, capable of
taking care of himself in any company or under any conditions.
By this advice I do not mean in any way to decry the merits
of the Toy Boston Terrier, which so many prefer, for I well
know their advantages, but I also appreciate that owing to
their size they have to be a great care to their owners. They,
therefore, cannot be so companionable as their larger brothers, |
for their comradeship is necessarily limited.

The first thing that you must teach your dog if you would
take him walking in the crowded thoroughfares of a city is
prompt and strict obedience to your whistle. Select some dis-
tinctive call of one, two or three notes and always use it so
that he will readily distinguish your call from others, but only
use it when you really want him, as he soon learns the moral
of the story of the boy who called “Wolf!” and he will think
you are only fooling him. It is necessary that he should be
taught to obey your call before you venture on the streets.
The best way to teach him is to whistle the desired notes, en-
couraging him to come to you, and when he obeys pet and make
much of him. Half an hour will generally be all that is needed
to teach this lesson, and when once you are sure that he knows
what is expected of him punish him if he does not come. The
next step is to have him trained to walk right beside you. This
is an important part of his training and will be found to be
invaluable many times. It is the best preventive for fights, and
will be found a great convenience in a crowd or crossing streets.
Call the dog to you and saying the words, “To heel,” or some-
thing similar, make him walk beside you. Always give the com-
mand the same way, using the same words and the same tone
of voice and gradually increase the distance that you have him
walk near you till he is perfectly trained in this respect. You
can let him run ahead with the words, “All right,” or “Go on,”
but care should be taken not to allow him to leave you till you
give your permission. It is a good plan to always call your dog

to heel on crossing a street and a week or so of this will often
find him coming to you of his own accord. If he should do
anything directly contrary to your commands, scold him severely
and put him on the leash. This is one of the best ways of pun-
ishing a dog and if you notice the downhearted and contrite
way in which he walks along while under this disgrace you
will yourself be convinced that it is an effective reprimand. It
is a good plan to always carry a lead with you, for if that is the
way in which he has been punished you will find that a mere

OAKMONT SENSATION.

sight of it will often cause him to mend his ways. When your
dog has been trained perfectly in this wise he will indeed be a
companion, a comfort and a protection, and you will soon grow
to enjoy your walks with him. There is nothing more humiliat-
ing than having a poorly trained dog on the streets and those
unfortunate ones who have not taken the trouble to train their
dogs are to be pitied. How foolish a person looks vainly calling
after a dog that is running riot all over the streets and how much
danger there is in such a course for the dog.

When the weather and the condition of the roads permit
he may follow your trap for a reasonable distance and it will
be very beneficial to him, but you must be careful to introduce
this more violent form of exercise gradually. Do not run the
legs off the dear little fellow without any regard for his condi-
tion. Lead up.to it by degrees, taking him into your carriage
very often at first, and never indulge this particular kind of
exercise for some time after eating. In other words, if you want
him to be able to run long distances train him as you would
yourself if you were desirous of becoming a distance runner.

The secret of success in exercising a dog, as in pretty much
everything in the world, is common sense and moderation. Be
humane in the amount of exercise, making it enough to keep him
in health, but not so much as to take the flesh off his bones.

CH. KIMBERLY.
66

CHAPTER VIII.

SOME HINTS ON DOG KEEPING.

Dog Blankets and Their Use—Rubbing—The Care of Feet—The
Eyes—Constipation and Its Opposite—Coughs from the
Stomach and Throat—The Bath—The Best Dog Soap—
The Best Way to Wash a Dog—Fleas—Care of the Coat.

SS ek aw HILE THE two cardinal principles of dog
ie health were treated in the last chapter, still
there are many things that it might be well
for the novice to know for they add not only
to the health and comfort of a dog, but also
to his looks. The subject that is being
briefly touched upon here is one that has
filled great volumes of canine lore and at
the outset the author feels almost swamped
with the mountain of material that is available. It is the
intention, however, only to write on those things that are
most important and necessary for the tyro to have explained.
The great amount of material will also have to be the excuse for
the patchwork character of this chapter for it is impossible to
try to follow any particular order.

In regard to dog blankets and covering a dog up. If your
dog is not a Toy and you keep him on the move when outdoors
there is not the slightest need for a blanket, in fact they are
rather to be discouraged, for a dog that gets use to one is apt
to be a great deal more susceptible to cold than one who has
been hardened, as it were, by going without one. In rainy or
wet weather, however, there is no objection to putting on a
blanket for it keeps him from getting wet and you will not have
to rub so much on your return indoors, and right here it should
be said that whenever a dog is brought in wet he should be
thoroughly dried and well rubbed. An ounce of prevention is a
good working rule and in this case it holds as good as it does in
any other case and a little care when you bring your dog in
may save you a great of trouble and expense later.

Feet are another part of the dog that soemtimes need a
little care though it must be acknowledged that in a vast ma-

jority of cases they are left absolutely to take care of themselves.
A dog’s nails, especially if he is kept in the city and not being
out enough to wear them down, often need cutting. This is an
operation that does not hurt the dog in the slightest and gen-
erally gives no trouble so that anyone can do it. Care, how-
ever, should be taken not to trim them too close. If the nails
are not cut they become so long as to force the foot apart and
splay feet are often caused in just this way.

A dog often catches cold in his eyes, which become blood-
shot and water. Sponge out the eye with boracic acid, allowing
a little to get in the eyes and the trouble will generally disappear
in the course of a day or so. Constipation is one of the most
common ailments of the house dog and one for which there is
absolutely no excuse. It is caused by insufficient exercise and
improper feeding and is very easily remedied. A teaspoon of
castor oil will generally do the trick if supplemented by a change
of diet. Give raw, lean meat and plenty of greens for a few
days and the trouble will disappear. It is important to attend
to this, for if allowed to go on the complaint will become
chronic, the digestion impaired and the general health of the dog
suffer severely. Diarrhoea may be so easily cured that there is
not the slightest excuse in the world for allowing it to run on to
an extent that will injure the dog. Both of these bowel com-
plaints are not in themselves very dangerous, but they point
towards a disordered condition and if not taken care of they lead
to serious results. The warning that was sounded in the last
chapter to go out with your dog when he is let out for his airing

may well be repeated here, for how else are we to know if
the functions of nature are being properly performed?

Dogs are affected with two very distinct kinds of coughs,
though there are many who think that all arise from the same
source. One of the coughs comes from a cold and the other
from the stomach, the treatment of each therefore differs ma-
terially. Amateurs sometimes experience no little difficulty in
determining the real cause of the cough, so a word or two on
the subject may be of use. Generally speaking a cough that
comes with a cold is not as hard as the one caused by stomach
trouble. The stomach cough is a little dry, hacking one, as if
there was scmething in the throat. The cold, also, often shows
itself in other places, with watering eyes and running nose,
while signs of stomach troubles are frequently in evidence in
the other case. The ordinary cold that dogs have can often

be cured with Syrup of White Pine or some other similar
human cough mixture. Cod Liver Oil, Honey and such reme-
dies are also successful treatment, while in extreme cases a
bronchitis kettle or one of the patent lamps that are used for
that trouble are an almost unfailing cure. Stomach coughs
may be cured by putting the stomach back into its normal,

BOYLSTON REINA.

healthy condition. This can often be done by the use of some
mild physic and then a little dieting. There are several in-
digestion preparations on the market and most of these are
reliable and will often be found useful in cases of this kind.
The question of how often a house dog should have a bath
is another that often causes discussions. A dog kept in the
house will not under ordinary circumstances need a bath more

than once in two or three weeks, though in hot or wet weather
this rule does not hold good. There are a host of dog soaps on
the market, but experience, that hard, but excellent instructor,
has taught that many of them are not as good as their advertise-
ments lead one to think. After having used many of them I
have come to the conclusion that Fleasoap is one of the best, if
it does that hold the title alone. It lathers quickly and freely,
it kills insects in a way that is wonderful, and it has no bad
effects upon the coat. There are of course many dogs who
dread a bath as much as a cat, but these animals have generally
been spoiled by their owners, for it seems to be a dog’s nature
to enjoy water. Young dogs should be washed, but when you
do start in to give him his bath do it careiuliy. Do not scold or
scare him, and by taking things easy for a time or two you will
often find that he will come to enjoy rather than dread his
washing day. This is a consummation devoutly to be wished,
for a fighting dog in a big tub of water can exhaust more
patience and wet more cloths than anyone would imagine.
Aside from this “scenes” with a dog, especially a Boston, are
not apt to be productive of the best feeling between you and
him, for his sensitive nature will not forget it and you will also
remember what happened and unwittingly be on the lookout for
a chance to get even.

The best way to give a dog a bath applies to all breeds and
is as follows. First see that the water is not hot, but merely
has the chill taken off it or is lukewarm. Stand the dog in the
tub, which should be large enough to permit this without crowd-
ing, then start at the head and work backwards. The object
of this is that fleas will make for the head the minute they are
threatened with drowning and by making a lather ring of
Fleasoap around his neck you will not miss any of the pests.
After you have made the ring around his neck wash and clean
his head and ears carefully, taking care to keep all soap out of
his eyes. When his head is clean rinse it off and turn your at-
tention to his body. Lather this thoroughly and rub it just as
a barber does when giving you a shampoo. Rub the soap in
with the finger tips and remember that it is harder to get the
dirt out of hair than it is off plain skin and so it will take time
to get him good and clean. Next turn to his legs and feet, tak-
ing one at a time and doing them thoroughly, for they are gen-
erally quite dirty. The soep may be left on the body while
the legs are being done, so that its antiseptic and insect killing

ee ee a er ences ae ee

Teg ae Sy tee

properties may have a chance to do all that lies in their power.
After he is clean stand his front feet on the rim of the tub and
rinse him off till all signs of the soap have disappeared.

When all the soap has been washed out of his coat place
him on a table, previously prepared, and rub him dry, using as

_many towels as may prove necessary. After he is as dry as he
can be gotten by artificial means, either roll him up in a

blanket or else induce him to romp about till he is perfectly

dry and circulation restored. The latter method is to be en-

couraged and it will be found that after a bath he will generally

ELLSWORTH FI FI.

be very willing to play. In fact, some dogs get into the habit of
playing during the bath, but this should not be allowed for it
will be found a great nuisance. He should not be allowed to
go out of doors, even in summer, for several hours after his
bath. The reason for this is two-fold; first, he is susceptible to
cold and, secondly, he will nine times out of ten pick out as
dirty a place as possible and roll in it, undoing all your labor.
It is not advisable either to give him a bath just after eating,
but two or three hours should elapse so as to give his meal time
to digest.

A short coated dog, such as the Boston, is not very difficult
to keep in good condition in respect to his coat, neither are
fleas so hard to exterminate from him should they chance to
get into his hair. These little pests will, however, get on any
dog, no matter how carefully he is watched. Sometimes they
seem to run into a perfect hive of these pestiferous insects and
come in literally covered with them. In a case like this it will
be well to spread a sheet or something that will serve the pur-
pose on the floor and sprinkle your pet thoroughly with Dal- |
matian powder. Either a salt shaker or a blower may be used,
though the former will be found to be the most handy. When

VET.

the dog is covered thoroughly rub the powder in and the fleas
will drop off on the sheet. It is to be remembered, however,
that the powder does not kill at once and an extra dose should
be given them as they lie on the cloth. Leave the powder on
the dog for several minutes, say about five, then brush it off
thoroughly and vigorously. Do not allow the dog to lick off
the insecticide, for while it would not prove fatal, still it is not
the best thing in the world for his stomach.

The semi-monthly bath and the occasional flea treatment is
not all the care that should be given to a dog’s coat if you
would have him looking his best and keep away skin diseases.

OL ee ee ae ee

Every day he should have a good brushing, followed by a rub-
bing with the hands. There is nothing in the world so good
for a dog’s ccat as rubbing it with the palms of the hands and
if you want your dog to shine with that silk-like glossiness that
is sO much admired by all, the best way that you can reach this
end is to rub him, using a generous amount of elbow grease.
The white markings of the face, throat and belly should be
sponged off with water daily so as to keep them from getting
that yellowish appearance that is not beautiful to say the least.
Besides improving his looks this little sponge bath will greatly
refresh him and he will come to look forward to having his
toilet performed.

The little hints that have been given in the foregoing pages
will, it is hoped, be of practical assistance to the novice. It
has, of course, been impossible to give a complete list of all
that might be done to improve your pet’s looks, or. to meet all
of the minor ills that may befall him, but the author trusts
that what he has written will be of use. Only such things, as
might be called the more common cases, have been treated
upon, but care has been taken to make the explanations as
simple as possible and the explanations and the use of technical
terms have been done so as to make them well within the com-
prehension of all.

KINSMAN’S BILLY.
73

CHAPTER IX.

CANINE DISEASES.

The Susceptibility of the Breed to Disease—Worms—The
Dangers of Vermifuges—Teething Troubles—Distemper
—Its Causes and Treatment—Complications of Distemper
—Recovery from Distemper—Skin Diseases—How to Kill
a Dog Humanely.

IT IS not within the scope of a work such as
this to enter into exhaustive descriptions
of the details of the diseases that Boston
Terriers may suffer from or to give a com-
plete list of the medicines and treatments
that must be used in the case of any given
sickness, but it seems advisable to consider
some of the more important ones briefly.

The previous chapters must have convinced you that the

Boston Terrier is not an easy dog to raise, that the

rate of mortality is not only high, but that many are de-

formed or develop marked blemishes before maturity is
reached. These are one of the principal causes of the high
market value of a good specimen of the breed and
while it increases the value, still it also increases the care and
trouble that must be expended upon their raising. It has been
pretty conclusively proved that the inbreeding that has been
necessary to produce the breed.in its present perfected state
has been very largely responsible for its inability to withstand
and throw off the ravages of disease in its various forms. What-
ever the cause is it is a fact that all Boston Terrier breeders
have learned by bitter experience that dogs of their breed seem
to be especially susceptible to all canine diseases and more sick-
nesses end fatally with this breed than with others. It may
seem strange, in this age of deceit, to see a statement like the
above in a book devoted to the Boston Terrier and addressed
particularly to novices, but the author feels that the knowledge
of the high rate of mortality in the breed will come sooner or
later and he thinks that it as well to sound the warning at the
outset. If one goes into the breed realizing the difficulties
that beset his way he will be less liable to give it up when the
discouragements come, as come they will, than if he had an

idea that the road to success were all strewn with roses. More-
over, one of the worst features of the mortality of this breed
is that it is not confined to pups, but old and mature dogs will
often die of diseases that would hardly cause another breed to
turn a hair. In justice to the breed, however, it must be said
that they are not a great deal more tender than the average
well bred dog, who is much more care than a street cur. The
sensitive nature of a thoroughbred, like that of a refined woman,

OARSMAN.

makes them more susceptible to pain and sickness, but it also
gives them something that the mongerel can never have.

The first disease that will, in all probability, affect your dog
~ will be worms, which will generally make their appearance when
a pup is about a month old, though they often cause trouble
before a youngster is through nursing. If you can succeed in
getting rid of these pests you may consider that your dog has a
new, if somewhat temporary lease of life, for he will probably
be left in peace until another batch of these infernal parasites
appear or distemper sets in. The symptoms that point to the

presence of worms are not hard to detect and as nine out of
ten—yes, ninety-nine out of a hundred—pups have them it is
a very safe guess that the first thing that ails a puppy will be
worms. ‘The indications that worms give are many—and it is
impossible to tell just how a dog will act when suffering from
them, but the following are some of the more common symp-
toms. Nervousness, twitching and restlessness in the sleep,
changeable appetite, a seeming desire to eat dirt and rubbish,
thinness and wasting. All or any of these may be taken as a
message from a very undesirable visitor and you should act
accordingly. In order to expell the worms it is necessary to
use powerful medicines and as the pup’s stomach is not made of
cast iron you must not be surprised if he is upset. Almost all
of the worm medicines and powders that are on the market are
good, though, of course, there are some that are better than
others. It is, however, a fact that the worm medicines, while
they will all of them drive out the worms, will often cause the
puppy’s death and what is more one medicine may not harm one
dog but will kill his own brother or sister. There are, however,
one or two medicines that have been so greatly improved that
they are harmless, yet a sure cure in a vast majority of the
cases, and as it is a question of having the worms kill the dog or
taking a chance, it is always better to use a vermifuge. Once the
worms are out of the system a puppy will generally go along very
nicely, with the exception of an occasional case of colic or some
similar ailment, till he cuts his second teeth. The complications
that are apt to set in at this time are numerous enough to fill
a very respectable volume in themselves, but I will not attempt
to describe them. Suffice it to say that warmth, appropriate
nourishment, and careful nursing are the best cure for all the
teething troubles and are the main factors that are to be relied
upon during this trying time. Unless you have a long expe-
rience in such matters and are-well acquainted with the prop-
erties of different medicines it will be well for you to trust to
nursing and care, leaving the responsibility of dosing to rest
upon a more experienced pair of shoulders than your own.

Words fail when the Boston Terrier fancier tries to describe
his feeling towards that most-to-be-dreaded and very disastrous
disease, distemper. In the past few years science has made
great strides in discovering the causes and cures for the differ-
ent diseases that affect not only man, but his best friend, and
much has been done with distemper. It has been discovered

STUBBIE.

o
that it is a contagious disease, and that a dog to have it must
have been exposed to its ravages. It is a highly infectious dis-
ease and can be carried in drinking vessels, bedding, or in fact
anything that the sick dog has been in contact with. It is this
that makes it so deadly an adjunct to shows where the bench-
ing, feeding and drinking vessels, etc., are such excellent con-
veyors of the contagion. While the knowledge that distemper
is a transmissible disease is valuable in aiding preventive
methods being adopted, still it has not,so far at least, been of any
material aid to dog owners in curing the sickness once it attacks
an animal. Germany, which has been aptly called the “Home of
Science,” claims to have discovered a preventive and cure for this
disease in the form of an antitoxine. A celebrated German pro-
fessor has made extensive experiments in this line and is supposed
to have discovered the germ of distemper and a serum that, while
it gives the dog a mild form of the disease, still the sickness is not
serious and it is said to be an effective preventive. Dog
breeders in Europe are all most enthusiastic over the discovery
and claim that the inoculation does all that it could possibly
accomplish. While there is little doubt in the minds of leading
doctors that it is possible to discover an antitoxine for the
disease, still it seems highly improbable that it will act as a
sure preventive, for it is well known that even when a dog
has real, true distemper he is not necessarily immune from a
second or even third or fourth attack. This seems to make it
a doubly hard task to find a preventive for the sickness. No
one in America has, however, ever had any practical experi-
ence with the new discovery and we are still doubtful of its
unfailing success, still it is to be sincerely hoped that it may be
as good as repcrt says it is. This is a great field for some one to
make an important and valuable medical discovery and the in-
ventor of the real cure and preventive of this dread disease
wili reap a great reward.

Distemper .is not a very difficult disease to diagnose as its
symptoms are quite unique. The first signs of distemper may,
it is true, be taken for nothing more serious than a bad cold,
but the past history of the case, this cold coming generally as
it does either after a show or exposure in other ways, make the
matter of determining the nature of the disease a comparatively
easy one. The first symptoms are dullness, lassitude, and gen-
eral disinclination to move about. The dog will also show a
great fondness for warm places and seems to avoid the light.

Your dog will in all probability seck the fireplace and laying
down there, his head on his paws, go to sleep. If you call him,
instead of coming with a bound, he will slowly open his eyes,
look at you with a most pitiful expression, wag his tail spirit-
lessly. Next come alternate attacks of fever and shivering,
hot nose, loss of appetite, and a disarranged condition of the
bowels. The urine becomes scanty, but bright colored, the cvat
rough, vomiting occasionally sets in, a thin discharge from the
nose starts and distemper is with you. As the disease progresses

YEGGMAN.

the discharge from the nose thickens till it becomes almost
impossible for the poor animal to breathe. The eyes also be-
come affected and are often completely stopped up with a gluey
substance, causing the dog much discomfort. A short, sneezy
cough, caused by the dog trying to clear out his nose is also
one of the never failing signs of distemper. Another sure sign
is a very rapid wasting, a big, strapping, healthy dog will be-
come a skeleton in a very few days, and this is one of the things
that must be most carefully guarded against.

>
Enough has been said of the signs of distemper to
enable the merest novice to tell the disease and we will now
devote our attention to saving the dog once he is down with

the scourge. In all cases of simple distemper the mainstay of
the owner is nursing, diet, and hygienic measures. Keep the

dog in a cool but draftless room and give him plenty of good
nourishing food, so that he will be able to withstand the attack.
Raw eggs, beaten up in milk, soups, gruels, etc., should be given
in small quantities, but at frequent intervals. Keep the eyes
clean with a solution of boracic acid and if the nose is very
much stopped up hold the dog over a steaming kettle. Great
care must be taken that the dog, in his weakened condition,
does not catch any cold or almost invariably disastrous com-
plications will set in. In almost all these simple cases this
treatment will pull a dog through. It is an important thing to
remember in distemper that “a stitch in time saves nine,”
and if the case is not a complicated one and it is nipped in the
bud you will probably be able to win the battle.

The great danger in this disease is not in the disease itself,
but lies in the dog having different complications while ounce
ing from the disease and his weakened condition makes it
almost impossible for him to successfully combat the double
attack. The most common attendant of distemper in Boston
Terriers is complications. of the head. His short nose makes
a very vulnerable point, for it stops up with amazing rapidity
and is very difficult to keep clear. Steaming and keeping the
discharge as much under control as possible is the only thing
that can be done to have the air passages kept free. Boston
Terrier owners should be most careful of this for in it lies
their worst enemy. In extreme cases the entire respiratory
organs are affected and even the lungs are reached. Fresh air
is very important in these cases and in no instance should
a dog be kept in a poorly ventilated room. If the throat is
very badly affected, blistering, poulticing and the administering
of soothing ccugh syrups may be adopted, though the last 1s
hardly to be strongly recomemnded. Cod liver oil is often
useful in these cases for it not only is very ECE aE but
it also relieves the throat and bronchial tubes.

Sometimes it happens that the stomach and bowels are the -
seat of a serious attack. Diarrhoea often sets in and should
be checked as soon as possible, for if allowed to run will so
rapidly weaken the dog that it will be impossible for him ta

throw off the effects of the primary disease. It is well in cases
of this kind to give a good dose of castor oil—a Boston should
have at least a teaspoon. This will thoroughly clean the dog
out and help to remove the inflamation that is the cause of
the trouble. The following mixture should then be given: Take
of prepared chalk 3 dr., powdered acacia, 1 dr.; of oil of cassia,

LADY DAINTY.

8 drops; of tincture of catechu, 3 dr.; tincture of opium, I oz.;
water to make 8 oz. The powders should first be well mixed
in a mortar, the oil of cassia added, then the other liquids. This
preparation will have to be well shaken before using. The diet
should also be looked to carefully. A little arrow root added
to the milk given is an old-time remedy and one which has

much virtue. It is well to give oatmeal water instead Of the
plain, and the only food should be that which is very. easy to
digest.

In distemper, especially in the more serious cases, the skin
of the dog is very apt to break out. These are generally noted
on the inside of the legs, where there is but little hair, and are
in the form of little pimples that finally break, giving out blood
and matter. This should be carefully wiped off and the sores
just touched with some disinfectant. These eruptions are most
frequently noted in cases where the stomach and the bowels
have been attacked and are by most considered as a good sign,
as it shows that the poison of the disease is coming out of the
system. While it is a good sign, it is not an augury of recoy-
ery, for many dogs join the great majority even after this favor-
able sign appears.

One of the main things to remember about the recovery
from this dread disease is that it takes many, many weeks and is
really one of the most critical times of the.whole illness, for it is
during this stage that pneumonia is apt to set in. A dog suffering
from distemper should never be washed and for three months
after an attack it is well to avoid the use of water. Never ex-
ercise a dog recovering from this sickness unless he is on the
lead and even then it should be very gentle, for he is sure to
be weak and overexertion may prove fatal. If it is necessary
to clean a dog sick with distemper a brush and cloths should be
used. It is also, important to see that sick dogs do not get
their feet wet or be exposed to other things liable to bring on
a cold. The food of a dog in the convalescent period should
also be watched with great care and nothing that is in any way
apt to upset him given.

There are several kinds of skin diseases that affect dogs
and they are all more or less serious, but as this book is written
especially for the owner of one or two dogs and as these are
not often sufferers from skin troubles, I will not treat of them
in this volume. The same applies to any number of other
diseases which it seems hardly advisable to treat about in this
little book. In all cases it will be best for the novice to call
to his aid the experience and knowledge of a _ qualified
veterinary.

A suggestion that might sometime be useful and save some
poor animal a great deal of pain is to state the best way to send
your pet to the Dog Heaven, which is to give him a small piece

wet 4

of cyanide of potassium. This may be very easily done by opening
his mouth and dropping it in, holding the mouth closed till
the poison is swallowed. This will cause instant, painless
death and is easier and more handy to give than chloroform.

WHISPER.

A GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL TERMS RELATING TOY.
BOSTON TERRIERS.

Apple-headed—Skull round instead of flat on top.

Beefy—Big. beefy hindquarters.

Brisket—The part of the body in front of the chest and
below the neck.

Broken-up Face—Refers more particularly to the face of the
Bulldog or Toy Spaniel, and comprises the receding — or
layback, deep stop and wrinkle.

Burr—The inside of the ears.

Butterfly-nose-—A spotted nose.

Button-ear—An ear which falls over in front, concealing the
inside, as in Fox Terriers.

Broody—A broody bitch; one that from its length and con.
formation gives evidence of being a likely mother.

Blood—A blood; a dog with every appearance of aie
breeding.

Blaze—The white line up the face.

Cloddy or Cobby—Thick set; short coupled and low in
stature.

Cushion—Fullness in the top lips.

Crook Tail—The crooked tail of the Bulldog.

Conky—Compact and active looking.

Character—A combination of points contributing to the
whole and giving to the dog the desired character associated
with his particular variety.

Condition—A dog’s being in condition means he is in a
state of perfect health; just enough flesh and no more, and his
coat in excellent order.

Cat-foot—A short, round foot, with the knuckles high and
weil developed.

Chest—The chest of a dog must not be confounded with the
brisket; the breast, or chest extends between the forelegs from
the brisket to the belly. -

Cheeky—When the cheek ee are strongly defined.

Chops—The pendulous lips of the Bulldog.

Cobby—Well ribbed up; short and compact.

Couplings—The length or space between the tops of the
shoulder blades and the tops of the hip-joints, or huckle-bones.
A dog is accordingly spoken of as long or short “in the
couplings.”

z 84

Cow-hocked—The hocks turning inward.

Domed Skull—Round skull.

Deep in Brisket—Deep in chest.

Dewlap—Pendulous skin under the throat, as in case of
Bloodhound.

Dew-claws—The exira claws found occasionally on the legs
of all breeds, but especially of the St.-Bernard.

Dish-faced—This term describes a dog whose nasal bone is
higher at the nose than at the stop—a feature not unfrequently
seen in Pointers.

Dudley-nose—A flesh-colored nose.

Expression—The expression of a dog is determined by the
size and placement of the eye. As an example, in the St. Ber-
nard the eye is small, somewhat sunken, showing a little haw.
This gives a mild and benevolent expression.

Elbow—The joint at top of the forearm.

Elbows Out—This term defines itself. Bulldogs and Dachs-
hunds are desired with elbows so shaped, but it may occur as
a fault through weakness.

Faking—Interfering with a dog’s natural appearance for
the sake of hiding defects.

Flat-sided—Flat in ribs.

Flews—The chops, or overhanging lips of the upper jaw.
The term is chiefly applied to hounds or other deep-mouthed
dogs.

Forearm—This makes the principal length of the foreleg
and extends from elbow to pastern.

Frog Face, or Down Face—Nose not receding.

Harefoot—A long, narrow foot, carried forward.

Height—The height of a dog is measured at the shoulder,
bending the head gently down. The proper method is to stand
the dog on level ground close by a wall, and to lay a flat rule
across his shoulders horizontally so as to touch the wall; then
measure to the point touched by the rule.

Huckle-bones—Tops of the hip-joints. The space between
these and the tops of the shoulders is called the couplings.

Knee—The joint attaching the forepasterns and the forearm.

Kink-tail—A tail with a single break or kink in it.

Lippy—Applied to hanging lips of some dogs where hanging
lips should not exist, as in the Bull Terrier.

Lengthy—Possessing length of body.

Level—A term used to describe some Terriers. A dog’s

teeth are said to be level when the jaws are neither overhung
nor underhung.

Leggy—Having the legs too long in proportion to the body.

Listless—Dull and sluggish.

Lumber—Superfluous flesh.

Long in Flank—Long in back and loins.

Loins—That part of the anatomy of the dog between the
last rib and hindquarters.

Layback—A receding nose.

Leather—The skin of the ear.

Occiput—The prominent bone at the back or top of the
skull; particularly prominent in Bloodhounds.

Overshot—The upper teeth projecting beyond the lower.
This fault in excess makes a dog pig-jawed, which see.

Out at Shoulders—Shoulders set on outside, as in the
Bulldog.

Out at Elbows—Elbows coming out.

Pad—The underneath portion of the foot.

Pastern—The lowest section of the leg below the knee or
hock respectively.

Pig-jawed—The upper jaw protruding over the lower, so
that the upper incisor teeth are in advance of the lower, an ex-
aggeration of an over-shot-jaw.

Rose-ear—An ear of which the tip turns backward and down-
watd, so as to disclose the inside of the ear.

Ring-tail—A tail curling round in a circular fashion.

Roached Back or Arched Loin—The arched or wheel forma-
tion of loin, as in a Greyhound, Dachshund, Dandie Dinmont
Terrier and a Bulldog.

Racy—Slight in build and leggy, as in the Greyhound or
Whippet.

Septum—The division between the nostrils.

Shoulders—The top of the shoulder blades, the point at
which the height of a dog is measured.

Splay-foot—A flat, awkward forefoot, usually turned out-
ward; and the opposite of “cat-foot.”

Stern—The tail.

Stop—The indentation between the skull and the nasal bone
near the eyes. This feature is strongly developed in Bulldogs,
Pugs and short faced Spaniels, and considerably so in many
other dogs.

Snipy—Too pointed in muzzle.

Spring—Round or well-sprung ribs.

Shelly—Narrow, shelly body.

Stifles—The upper joint of hind legs.

Style—Showy, and of a stylish, gay demeanor.

Stocky—A bitch is called “stocky” when she looks as if she
could throw good pups and be a good mother.

Second Thighs—The muscular development between stifle
joint and hock.

The Hock—The lower joint of hind leg.

Tight Lipped—-Having no flews; as in Terriers.

Timber—Bone. :

Tucked Up—Tucked up loin, as in the Greyhound.

Tulip-ear—An upright or pricked ear.

Undershot—The lower incisor teeth projecting beyond the
upper, as in Bulldogs.

Upright Shoulders—Shoulders that are set in an upright,
instead of an oblique position; not laid back.

Varmint Expression—As in the eye of the Fox Terrier, which
is free from hair, is not sunken, nor large, and set in, in a some-
what horizontal position, giving a keen varmint expression.
Wall Eye—A blue mottled eye.

Wrinkle—Loose folding skin over the skull.

... Wheaten— Pale-yellowish color.

Weedy—Applied to a dog who looks leggy, thin, badly-bred

and apparently going to seed.

Oakmount Kennels

OFFER AT STUD

OAKMOUNT PUNCH

A. K. C. S. B. 78322, Sire of OAKMOUNT BUD, Rich

Dark Seal Brindle, 13-Inch Screw Tail, and One

of the Cobbiest and Best Proportioned
Dogs Before the Public.
WEIGHT, 153 LBS. FEE, $25.00
Also,

OAKMOUNT GENT, 97114, 12% lbs. - - $25.00
OAKMOUNT SENSATION, 76113, 142 abs: . 15.00
CABIN BOY, 88654, 19 lbs. - - 15-00

| Write for Booklet
187 Ege Avenue, JERSEY CITY, N. J.

5 Ope
Atchison Kennels

Registered

QpRFER at public
stud for the low
fee of <. $2500 «the
greatest Boston sire

of the age,

VET

a dog who has been at
stud less than a year
and who has sired six
big winners.

beri ae 13 poueds
A. K, C. 95,091

ET
Ww eight yan pounds
A. K. C. 77,096

A cobbly little lightweight, of

perfect markings and
screw tail.

Also his best son, the grand

VET II

A great son of a great sire,
who has inherited his daddy’s
ability to get the right kind
of pups. Fee, for the pres-
ent, $15.00.

Edgar Atchison-Ely

Stony Brook, Long Island, N.Y.

Phone 17L Smithtown

SELBCTIED 44lGn
CLASS: BOSTON
TERRIERS

CH. WHISPER

ANNISQUAM AENNELS
WALTER E. SPONE, PROP.
65 KILBY STREET, BOSTON, MASS.

| At Stud
Viking

The best Boston Terrier
Stud Dog alive

PERFECT MARKINGS,
GRAND HEAD AND SHORT
SCREW TAIL

A Getter of Puppies that Win and Sell

FEE $15
W. N. KIMBALL, 338 High St., Lawrence, Mass.

Telephone 244-4

Eiisworth Fifi
Sire, Champion Revillo Peach
Dam, Rosan

The sensational ToyBoston terrier, win-
ner at all the shows of 1905 and 1906
shown at New York, Ist, five specials;
Boston, Ist, five specials; Buffalo,
Ist,five specials; Lynn, Ist, six specials;
Haverhill, Ist, six specials. Judged by

James Mortimer, Alex Goode, Dwight Bald-
win, Mr. Green and Mr. Thomas Benson.

AT STUD—Kinsman’s BILLy and Duke B winners at above shows.
Puppies and grown dogs for sale. All Registered Stock.

Ellsworth Kennels, Mrs. John N. Champion, New Haven, Conn.

Rob Roy- Presto
Kennes 2

To breed or to buy at these kennels is
to know that you have the best.

CH. JUNIOR II., (Remlic Roi D’Or), 22 pounds, Fee, $15.00

CHAMPION OARSMAN,18 pounds, (Cracksman).......... Fee, $20.00
LORD DIRECT (Hazlewood Dick ex Cutty Sark)....... Fee, $15.00
OARMAN’S ANTHONY, 15 pounds (Ch. Oarsman).......... Fee, $15.00
BAYSIDE ALADDIN, JR.,17 pounds (Bayside Aladdin)... Fee, $15.00
MALLOW BOY, 17 pounds (Revilo Peach).................---- Fee, $15.00
BARNE Yo'8 pounds Ghinemaster): ccc. csccccmecsesea eas oes s Fee, $10.00
DERBY’S PRINCE, 16 pounds (Ch. Lord Derby)............-. Fee, $10.00
IBERIA NY; 16 poundSer: soccer oot ates toe ra ntetes emai se eae Fee, $10.00

Select number of bitches to each dog, assuming best results.
Send at once for new catalogue. Choice
of dogs on any return.

MYRON W. ROBINSON. Englewood, N. J.

Fee, $10.00

One of the most
typical and best bred
Bostons at public
stud to-day. Hand-
some, dark seal brin-
dle with perfect white
markings. Grand
head, two inch screw
tailand perfect body.

Sire, Rajah
Dam, Queen Regent
If you want salable

pups, give him atry.
A. K.C.S. B. 70,3872 Send;for a card.

C. P. WRIGHT, CLINTON, MASS.

SIRED by DAZZLER | I Get the Winner’s
Fee, $10,00

Cr. Dick Dazzler

Is the only dog to beat the
great FOSCO this year, 1906;
also Charmion, McAlvin’s
Nance, Sweet Marie, Miss
Ruby, Lady Teazle, Mrs.
Betz, Bad Boy and Red Ruler,
all are 1905 and 1906 winners.

Dazzler is TRUE
BUSTER BLOOD and Biss
INVINCIBLE as a SIRE. ARs og nail

WILL BELL, 64 Humphrey St., Lowell,Mass.

at ud Strong Heart

A winner of Many Prizes and a Sire
of Winners. Fee, $10.00.

ELMORE KENNELS, P. 0. Box 123, Hudson; N. Y.

At Stud YWEGGMAN_ Fee, $15

The best in the South, and very few superiors any-
where. Young and sound and almost perfect.
Weighs only 16 lbs. Won first open lightweight
at Boston February, 1906. Send for stud card to

Peachtree Kennels - Atlanta, Ga.

MOHAWK KENNELS

Breeders of High Class Boston Terriers

TIPSTER
(A K. C, 78758).

Rich dark brindle: perfect
markings; elegant head; tight
screw tail; light weight; ‘trappy
and stylish; winner of 11 firsts
and 5 specials.

FEE, $10.00

MOHAWK CHIEF
(A. K. C. 92,943).

Handsome brindle; even mark-
ings; short kinky tail; grand con-
formation; middle weight; very
cobby and showy; a winner at
the largest shows.

FEE, $15.00

Blue blood dogs that will breed you a winner

Office, 149 Clinton St., Schenectady, N.Y.

Dr. A. C. Daniels’

DOG WORM EXPELLER

Drives Out Any Sort of Worm
From Any Kind of Dog—5@Qe,

PUPPY VERIIIFFUGE

we 7 for Young Pups—50c,
FULL LINE DOG MEDICINES

Any druggist can get them for you, if he won’t, send direct to

Dr. A. C. DANIELS

172 MILK ST., BOSTON

The largest Manufacturer of Veterniary Medicines in the world
Dog, Cat or Horse Books free, mention this book

AT STUD FEE $15.00

5) CHAMPION
7) KIMBERLY

A. K. C. 730179

Kimberly is one of the most consistent performers on
the bench and in the stud before the public to-day.

He is a winner of many prizes and a sire of winners.
FOR PARTICULARS ADDRESS
Dr. J. H. FOQUET
CENTRE STREET OIL CITY, PA.

A Kenacl Toilet Powde

Refreshing and Pleasing

TRADE

MARK

For FLEAS and
All Other Insects

Price, 25 Cents

BY MAIL
Manufactured by

CHARLES H. ELLIS, Pharmacist, Port Chester, N.Y.

My Master uses Sectease Mine don’t —I wish he did

Field and Fancy Supply Dept.

Furnishes Anything and Everything for the Dog Fancier

Dog Crates, Dog Furnishings, Dog Medicines, Dog
Foods, Dog Books, Dog Papers, Dog Pictures,
Dog Soaps, Special American Agents
For All English Publications

DOG CRATES

é THE FIELD AND FANCY
» PATENT STEEL WOVEN
DOG CRATES are made of
the best quality of tough
hardwood slats, securely fast-
ened to the corners with
tement coated nails clinched
to the corner posts. The
corners are protected by gal-
vanized steel from top to
bottom, and the top _ rein-
forced with galvanized steel
corner clamps, thereby mak-
ing it rigid and the strongest

_ dog crate on the market.

SIZES, WEIGHTS AND PRICES

Length, Width, Height, Weight,
Inches. Inches. Inches. Pounds.

Special attention has been paid to the construction of this crate so
as to get the strongest and at the same time the lightest to SA
EXPRESS CHARGES; also the best ventilated and lowest priced dog
crate on the market. A sample order from you would substantiate
every claim we make.

Field 48 Fancy Supply Dep’t

Tel. 5897 Cortlandt. 14 Church St., New York

ONGRESS

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Full text of "The Boston terrier; its history, points, breeding, rearing, training, and care, together with several instructive chapters on management and diseases of dogs from a common sense view"

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