Full text of "The boy mechanic; more than 500 projects for the young home craftsman"

See other formats

Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2010

http://www.archive.org/details/boymechanic03popu

THE BOY MECHANIC

BOOKS

PRINTED IX U. S. A.

THE

BOY MECHANIC

BOOK 3

800 THINGS FOR BOYS TO DO

HOW TO CONSTRUCT

ELECTEIC LOCOilOTIVE MODEL AXD TEACK SYSTEM, BOYS' MOTOR
CAB, PAECEL DELIVERY' BICYCLE, AERIAL CABLEWAY', MINIA-
TURE TANK, SAILING CANOE, HOUSEBOAT, SUBMARINE
CAMERA, DIVING TOWER, HAMMOCKS, KITCHEN
FOE HIKEES, ICE Y'ACHT

AND

HUNDREDS OF OTHER THINGS WHICH DELIGHT EVERY BOY

WITH 802 ILLUSTRATIOXS

COPYRIGHTED, 1919, BY H. H. WINDSOR

POPULAR MECHANICS PRESS
CHICAGO

The General Arrangement of the Parts is Shown
in the Assembly Views, Figs. 1, 2, and 3. The
Bralie Detail, Fig. 4, should be Considered with
Fig. 9. Shown Separately. The Detail Construc-
tion of the Frame and Body can be Readily Under-
stood by Referring to the Assembly Views in
Connection with Fig. 7

DETAIL OF SUPPORT D

FrG.7
DETAIL OF FRAME AtsID BODY

EVEN though the home-built
"bearcat" roadster, or other fa-
vorite model, does not compare in
every detail with the luxurious manu-
factured cars, it has an individuality
that puts it in a class by itself. The
amateur mechanic, or the ambitious
boy, w h o is fairly
skilled with tools, can
build at least the main
parts for his own small
car, of the simple,
practical design shown
in the sketch and de-
tailed in the working
drawings. If neces-
sary, he can call more
skilled mechanics to
his aid. A motorcycle
engine, or other small
gasoline motor, is used
for the power plant.
The control mechan-
ism of the engine and
the electrical connections are similar
to those of a motorcycle. They are
installed to be controlled handily from
the driver's seat. The car is built
without springs, but these may be
included, if desired, or the necessary
comfort provided — in part at least —
by a cushioned seat. Strong bicycle
wheels are used, the l^/^ by 28-in. size
being suitable. The hood may be of
wood, or of sheet metal, built over a
frame of strap iron. The top of the
hood can be lifted off, and the entire
hood can also be removed, when re-
pairs are to be made. The tool box on
the rear of the frame can be replaced
by a larger compartment, or rack, for
transporting loads, or an extra seat for
a passenger.

The construction may be begim with
the chassis and the running gear. Fit
the wheels with %-in. axles, as shown
in the assembly views, Figs. 1, 2, and
3, and detailed in Fig. 4. Fit the ends

of the axles to the hubs of the wheels,
providing the threaded ends with lock
nuts. Make the wooden supports for
the frame, as detailed in Fig. 6. The
axles are fastened into half-round
grooves, cut in the bottoms of the sup-
ports, and secured by iron straps, as

To Simplify This Small but Serviceable Motor Car for Construction by

the Young Mechanic, Only the Essential Parts are Considered. Other

Useful and Ornamental Features may be Added as the Skill and Means

of the Builder Make Possible

shown in Fig. 4, at A. Make the side-
pieces for the main frame 2i/2 by 3i/i
in. thick, and 9 ft. 4 in. long, as de-
tailed in Fig. 7. Mortise the supports
through the sidepieces, and bore the
holes for the bolt fastenings and
braces. Glue the mortise-and-tenon
joints before the bolts are finally
secured. Provide the bolts with wash-
ers, and lock the nuts with additional
jam nuts where needed. Keep the
woodwork clean, and apply a coat of
linseed oil, so that dirt and grease can-
not penetrate readily.

Finish only the supporting structure
of the chassis in the preliminary wood-
work. Set the front-axle and steering-
rigging supports C and D, and adjust
the spacers F between them. Bore
the hole for the kingbolt, as detailed
in Fig. 6, and fit the bevel gears and
the fifth wheel G, of y^-in. steel, into
place, as shown in Fig. 5. The gear H
is bolted to the axle support. The

pinion J is set on the end of a short
■y^-in. shaft. The latter passes through
the support D, and is fitted with wash-
ers and jam nuts, solidly, yet with
sufficient play. A bracket, K, of V^ by
1%-in. strap iron, braces the shaft, as
shown in Fig. 3. The end of this
short shaft is joined to one section of
the universal coupling, as shown, and,
like the other half of the coupling, is

DETAIL OF AMGUE
SUPPORTING STRIPS B

DetailoftheMotor
Support: The En-
gine isMountedon
Reinforced Angle
Irons, and Secured
by Clamps and a
Supporting Band
under the Crank
Case

FiG.S

pinned with a %fl-in. riveted pin. The
pinion is also pinned, and the lower
end of the kingbolt provided with a
washer and nut, guarded by a cotter
pin. Suitable gears can be procured
from old machinery. A satisfactory
set was obtained from an old difteren-
tial of a well-known small car.

Before fitting the steering column
into place, make the dashboard, of Ys-
in. oak, as shown in the assembly view,
and in detail in Fig. 7. It is 19Vo in.
high and 2 ft. 4 in. wide, and set on the
frame and braced to it with 4 by 4 by
lyo-in. angle irons, 1/4 in. thick. Fit a
%-^n. strip of wood around the edge of
the dashboard, on the front side, as a
rest for the hood, as shown in Figs. 1
and 7, at L. A brass edging protects
the dashboard, and gives a neat
appearance. Lay out carefully the
angle for the steering column, which
is of 'Vs-in. shafting, so as to be con-
venient for the driver. Mark the
point at which it is to pass through the
dashboard, and reinforce the hole
with an oak block, or an angle flange,
of iron or brass, such as is used on
railings, or boat fittings. A collar at

the flange counteracts the downward
pressure on the steering post. The 12-
in. steering wheel is set on the column
by a riveted pin.

The fitting of the engine may next
be undertaken. The exact position
and method of setting the engine on
the frame will depend on the size and
type. It should be placed as near the
center as possible, to give proper bal-
ance. The drawings show a common
air-cooled motor of the one-cylinder
type. It is supported, as shown in
Figs. 1 and 3 and detailed in Fig. 8.
Two iron strips, B, riveted to IV^ by
iVa-in. angle irons, extend across the
main frame, and support the engine
by means of bolts and steel clamps,
designed to suit the engine. Cross
strips of iron steady the engine, and
the clamps are bolted to the crank
case. The center clamp is a band that
passes under the crank case.

The engine is set so that the crank-
shaft extends across the main frame.
Other methods may be devised for
special motors, and the power
transmission changed correspondingly.
One end of the crankshaft is extended
beyond the right side of the frame, as
shown in Fig. 3. This extension is
connected to the shaft by means of an
ordinary setscrew collar coupling. A
block M, Figs. 3 and T, is bolted to the
frame, and a section of heavy brass
pipe fitted as a bearing.

The ignition and oiling systems, car-
buretor, and other details of the en-
gine control and allied mechanism, are
the same as those used on the motor-
cycle engine originally, fitted up as
required. The oil tank is made of a
strong can, mounted on the dashboard,
as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. It is con-
nected with the crank case by copper
tubing. A cut-out switch for the igni-
tion system is mounted on the dash-
board. The controls used for the en-
gine of the motorcycle can be extended
with light iron rods, and the control
handles mounted on the dashboard or
in other convenient position. The
throttle can be mounted on the steer-
ing column by fitting an iron pipe
around the post and mounting this

pipe in the angle flange at the dash-
board. A foot accelerator may also be
used, suitable mountings and pedal
connections being installed at the
floor.

In setting the gasoline tank, make
only as much of the body woodwork
as is necessary to support it, as shown
in Figs. 1, 3, and 7. The tank may be
made of a can, properly fitted, and
heavy enough, as determined by com-
parison with gasoline tanks in commer-
cial cars. The feed is through a copper
tube, as shown in Fig. 1. A small
venthole, to guard against a vacuum
in the tank, should be made in the cap.
The muffler from a motorcycle is used,
fitted with a longer pipe, and sus-
pended from the side of the frame.

The transmission of the power from
the motor shaft to the right rear
wheel is accomplished by means of a
leather motorcycle belt, made by fit-
ting leather washers close together
over a bicycle chain, oiling the washers
with neat's-foot oil. A grooved iron
pulley is fitted on the end of the motor
shaft, and a grooved pulley rim on the
rear wheel, as shown in Figs. 1 and 3,
and detailed in Fig. 4. The motor is
started by means of a crank, and the
belt drawn up gradually, by the action
of a clutch lever and its idler, detailed
in Fig. 9. The clutch lever is forged,
as shown, and fitted with a ratchet
lever, N, and ratchet quadrant, O.
The idler holds the belt to the tension
desired, giving considerable flexibility
of speed.

The brake is shown in Figs. 1 and 3,
and detailed in Figs. 4 and 9. The fit-
tings on the rear wheel and axle are
made of wood, and bolted, with a
tension spring, as shown. The brake
drum is supported on iron bands, riv-
eted to the wheel, and to the pulley
rim. The brake arm is connected to
the brake wheel by a flexible wire.
Wheii the pedal is forced down, the
wire is wound on the brake wheel,
thus permitting of adjustment. The
pedal is of iron and fixed on its shaft
with a setscrew. An iron pipe is used
as a casing for the central shaft, the
shaft carrying the clutch lever, and

the pipe carrying the brake pedal and
the brake wheel. The quadrant O is
mounted on a block, fastened to the
main frame. The central shaft is car-
ried in wooden blocks, with iron caps.
A catch of strap iron can be fitted on
the floor, to engage the pedal, and lock
the brake when desired.

The engine is cooled by the draft

^Xll'cLUTCH LEVER

(^ THICK

SIDE vTeW

PLAN
DETAIL OF BRAKE AND CLUTCH LEVER
FlO.9

The Brake is Controlled by a Pedal, and a Clutch
Lever is Mounted on the Central Shaft, and Set by
Means of a Ratchet Device and Grip-Release Rod

through the wire-mesh opening in the
front of the hood, and through the
openings under the hood. If desir-
able, a wooden split pulley, with
grooved rim and rope belt, may be
fitted on the extension of the engine
shaft, and connected with a two-blade
metal fan, as shown in Fig. 2.

The lighting arrangement may next
be installed, gas or electric lamps, run
on batteries, being used. Mudguards
are desirable if the car is to be used
on muddy roads. Strong bicycle mud-
guards can be installed, the guard
braces being bolted on the axles. A
strong pipe, with a drawbolt passing
through its length, is mounted across
the front of the frame. The body is
built of %-in. stock, preferably white
wood, and is 2 ft. 4 in. wide. A prim-
ing coat should be applied to the wood-
work, followed by two coats of the
body color, and one or two coats of
varnish. The metal parts, except at
the working surfaces, may be painted,
or enameled.

-LABEL HANDLE
-PARAFFIN

GLASS JAR
PRESERVES

Combined Label and Cover Pad
for Preserve Glasses

A neat and convenient method of
making a label for jars of preserves, or
similar preparations, to serve as a tab
for removing
the co\'er of
paraffin on the
glass, or dish, is
s h o \v n in the
sketch. The
tabs are cut
from tag board,
notched, as
shown, and bent
on the dotted
line. When mel-
ted paraffin is
poured on top of
the material in
the jar, the tab is imbedded in it. To
remove the paraffin cover intact, a
pointed knife is run around the edge,
or the glass warmed sufficiently to
loosen the cover, which is then easily
removed. — Arthur M. Cranford, St.
Louis, Mo.

BEND ON
■DOTTED
LINES

Motor-Driven Entertainer
for the Baby

A contrivance that keeps the baby
entertained, by the hour, at intervals,
and is a big help to a busy mother,
was made in a
short t i m e. I
mounted four
wooden arms on
a small motor, as
shown. On the
ends of two of
the arms, I fixed
small pin wheels,
one blue and the
other yellow.
The other arms
hold curious-shaped pieces of bright
cardboard, one red and the other green.
The driving motor is run by one two-
volt cell. The revolving colored pin
wheels amuse baby in his high chair.
and the device has well repaid the lit-
tle trouble of making it. — A. H. Lange,
St. Paul, Minn.

GUIDE 5>

Simple Concealed Locking Device
for Cases of Drawers

A simple method of providing a
homemade locking device for a tier of
drawers, the use of only one keyed
lock being necessary, as is common
in manufactured cases, is shown in the
sketch. This is applicable to new or
old cases, where a space of about l^f;
in. is available between the back of the
drawers and the rear of the -case.

The device, as detailed, consists of a
locking bar sliding in guides, screwed
or fastened to the back of the case.
Attached to the bar are latches one less
in number than there are drawers, and
spaced apart the distance that each
drawer top is
above the one
below. The up-
per latch is the
master feature.
The top of this is
beveled off, forc-
ing it downward
when the top
drawer is closed.
The locking bar.
with the other
latches, also
moves down,
and the latch
fingers engage
the backs of the
drawers. The
connecting bar
is operated by a

light coil spring, set on a shouldered
rod at the bottom of the bar, as de-
tailed.

The master latch ma}- be attached
at any place on the bar, and should be
placed at the bottom drawer, for cases
too high to be reached handily. To
make the device for a small space, a
V4-in. metal rod, with metal fingers
clamped on, can be used. Metal strik-
ing plates are then put on the back
edges of the drawers. — G. A. Luers,
A\^ashington, D. C.

CSteam-pij)e drains should be provided
at all points in the line where water is
likely to accumulate.

Support for Wagon Pole Aids
in Hooking Up Team

To do away with the annoyance and
strain of holding up the heavy pole of
a mowing machine while fastening the
yoke strap to

the hames of a
restless team
of horses, I
equipped the
pole with a drop
stick, or rest.
This was made
of a 30-in. piece
of an old car-
riage shaft. One end of the rod was
hinged to the underside of the pole as
shown. When the machine is in opera-
tion, the stick is tied up out of the way
by means of a rope. This appliance
also lengthens the life of the pole, and
can be used on various kinds of ve-
hicles.— T. H. Linthicum, Annapolis,
Maryland.

String-Cutting Ring Made
of Horseshoe Nail

Persons having to tie a large num-
ber of packages or parcels soon find
that their fingers become sore from
breaking the
heavy cord in
the usual man-
ner by wrapping
it around the
finger to form
a cutting loop.
A hand}' device,
that can be easily made, is
a string-cutting ring fash-
ioned from a horseshoe nail, as shown.
The point of the nail is curled into a
hook, and the inner edge of the hook is
sharpened. The string is quickly
looped around the hook and cut by a
slight pull on the free end. The ring is
worn on the little finger. — C. C.
Spreen, Flint, Mich.

Teakettle Cover Held by Dent
in Edge

To prevent kettle covers from drop-
ping off, and the fingers from being
burned by the
escaping steam,
make a small
dent in the edge
of the lid, as
shown. In set-
ting the Hd into
place, arrange it
so that the dent
is at the point opposite the spout.
Thus, when the water is poured from
the kettle, the lid cannot easily tip
forward.— W. J. Parks. LaSalle, 111.

CA block of soft rubber, IV- by 3 by 5
in., is useful as a pad for sandpaper in
smoothing curved surfaces.

Candlesticks Wired Neatly
for Electric Lamps

A number of wooden candlesticks
were to be fitted with fixtures for
electric lights, and it was found that
the types ordi-
narily available
could not be at-
tached in the
usual manner. A
simple method
w a s, therefore,
devised, as
shown in the
sketch, and
proved practical.
A short length
of brass tubing,

A, was screwed into a hole drilled in
the bottom of the candle socket, both
ends of the tube being threaded. A
hole was drilled through the side of
the tube, and another through the side
of the candlestick cup, as indicated.
The hole in the wood was fitted with
an insulation ring. B. The wiring,
suitably taped, was carried through the
opening for it, into the tube, and fas-
tened in the usual manner to a stand-
ard keyless socket, which was then
screwed to the end of the tube, making
a substantial support. The lights were
controlled conveniently at the usual
wall switches. — Livingston Haviland,
Buffalo, N. Y.

Handy Parcel Carrier with Caster
Supports

Instead of carrying out an armload,
or a boxful, of miscellaneous parcels to
the delivery wagon or the customer's

The Parcels are Handled Easily and with Little

Danger of Damage by the Use of

This Homemade Carrier

vehicle, an enterprising grocery clerk
made a parcel carrier fitted with cast-
ers, as shown in the sketch. An ordi-
nary wooden box was used for the
tray, and handles were fitted at the
ends. The legs were made of light
strips nailed as shown. The parcels
are loaded into the tray and the ar-
rangement carried or rolled along on
the casters, as is convenient. Besides
making the work of handling the ar-
ticles easier, they are kept clean, since
it is not necessary to lay them on the
walk or other undesirable place. — Avis
Gordon Vestal, Chicago, 111.

Kinks in Cleaning a Typewriter

Irregularities in the feeding of the
paper into a typewriter are often due
to slippery spots on the platen. To
overcome this trouble, clean the platen
thoroughly with a mixture of two
parts of denatured alcohol to one part
of ether. Rub the polished parts with
No. 2 emery cloth, then smooth the
surface with No. 0 emery cloth. In
cleaning a typewriter with gasoline,
the effect is to leave the parts dry. A

better method is to use a mixture of one
part of typewriter oil to 50 parts gaso-
line. This will leave a fine coating of
oil, which is too fine to collect dust, on
the working parts. — William Doenges,
Fort Sam Houston, Texas.

Red Lens Hinged to Flash Light
for Dark-Room Use

Amateur photographers will find a
red lens attachment for a hand flash
light a useful arrangement for the
dark room, when going in or out. and
during the process of developing,
especially in temporary quarters. To
fit the device in place, measure the dis-
tance around the outside of the lens
holder, and lay out this dimension on
a strip of tin, or other metal, 1 in. wide,
as shown. Then add Yg in. at each
end, and an extra strip, which should
be cut into i/4-in. sections, along the
whole length. A spring tab, midway
along the top edge of the metal, is also
made. Curl the piece to a cylindrical
form and clinch the joint as detailed,
and bend the notched tabs into place.
Slip a piece of ruby glass into the cyl-
inder and hold it against the notched
tabs with a spring ring. Then solder
a small hinge to the edge of the cyl-
inder and to the lens holder on the
flash light, so that the spring tab will

^ HINGE ^

A Ruby Cap Hinged over the Lens of an Ordinary
Flash Light Is a Convenience for the Dark Room

snap into place. When a white light
is wanted, the red-glass fitting is re-
leased, as shown.

An Octagonal Mission Center Table

By henry SIMON

THE home craftsman who is fairly
skilled with woodworking hand
tools will be well repaid for a little ex-
tra care in making this mission center
table, of unusual design. Most of the
woodwork involved in its construction
is quite simple, the element calling for
careful work being the laying out and
shaping of the octagonal top and the
shelf. Because of the wide surfaces ex-
posed it will also pay the maker to
plane, scrape, and sand down these sur-
faces carefully. By selecting the best
pieces of wood and setting their better
sides out, the effect is also enhanced.

BOTTOM VIEW OF

When the top and shelf are dry, brace
the top with cleats screwed on under-
neath, as shown in the bottom view of
the top. Lay out the shelf accurately,
and shape it to a perfect octagon, 25
in. across from opposite parallel sides.
Make a strip, 1% in. wide, and use it
in marking the layout for the top, from
the shelf as a pattern, the edges of the
top being parallel with those of the
shelf and 1% in. from them.

Assemble the parts as shown, using
glue and screws where practicable, and
properly set nails for places where the
fastening will be exposed. All the stock

The Home Craftsman will Find the Making of This Octagonal Mission Center Table a Novel Piece of
Construction. It Offers No Special Difficulties if Care is Taken in the Shaping of the Top and Shelf

The table can be finished in a variety
of ways to suit the furniture of the
room where it is used. Various kinds
of hard wood are suitable, quarter-
sawed oak being preferable.

Begin the construction by gluing up
the pieces for the top and the shelf.
While they are drying, make the pieces
for the legs, the lower braces, and the
strips for the edging of the top. The
upper portion of the legs is of double
thickness, yg-in. stock being used
throughout. Fit the lower supporting
framework together as shown in the
bottom view of the shelf, two of the
braces extending across the bottom and
the others butting against them.

should be cleaned up thoroughly both
before and after assembling. Four
pieces for the casters are fastened to
the legs with screws. The edging for
the top may be mitered. with a rounded
corner, as shown in the detail, or butted
square against the edge of the top, as
indicated in the photograph and the
plan of the top, the latter method being
far easier.

CThe nuisance of tracking dust and
ashes from the basement can be over-
come, to a considerable extent, by pro-
viding carpet mats on two or three
lower treads of the stairs leading from
the basement to the rooms above.

Folding Ironing Board Clamps
on Edge of Table or Window

An ironing board is usually most
convenient for use when its left end
is set near a window, or other source
of lifrht. The arrangement shown in

This Rigid Ironing Board Folds Compactly and can
be Set Up with Ease at the Window Sill

the sketch was designed with this
in mind, and other interesting features
were added. The top is of the usual
type. Arranged underneath it is a
cross cleat near one end. Bolted
through this are two clamps which
engage the edge of the window sill or
table. They are clamped by lowering
the leg from its folded position, under-
neath the top, as indicated. The bolts
at the clamps are adjustable for grip-
ping various thicknesses of table tops,
etc., between the clamps and the top.
The lower end of the leg can be fitted
with a sliding adjustment, if the board
is used at different heights, the design
being otherwi-se the same. — T. J. Hub-
bard, jNIendota, 111.

Wire Trellis Fastened Neatly
to Brick Walls

A desirable vine often has not the
natural al^ility for clinging to stone,
and other walls, and a suitable aid must
be provided to support it. Fastening a
wire trellis to such a wall is a good
method. Screw anchors are used,
which fit into holes drilled for them
and expand under the pressure of the
screw. Staples may also be used in
walls laid up in mortar. A ^/ie-in.
screw anchor will hold an ordinary
fence staple, and requires a '^p,-in.
hole. After the staple has been placed

over the wire its ends are pinched to-
gether and driven into the anchor
socket. The staple is held firmly, and
will support a considerable load. First
fasten the trellis of wire mesh to the
wall, at the top, very securely. A
chalk line aids in setting the wire
straight. If carefully done, the trellis
will be hardly noticeable, and the wall
will be unmarred. — C. L. Meller, Far-
go, N. D.

A Homemade Fishing Float
Adjustable to Depth

A novel device for fishing, especially
with a short bait-casting rod, is a float
that can be adjusted to the depth of
water in which it is desired to fish.
The float is hollow and slides on the
line. To use it, the casting lead and
hooks are adjusted as usual, and a
sliding knot on the line is set for the
depth desired, and the cast made. The

^SLIDING KNOT

1 r^ GLASS t

- FlSWLtNE

QUILL

By Setting a Sliding Knot on the Line, as a Stop

for the Float, the Depth at Which the Sinker

is Desired can be Easily Regulated

float will stop at the sliding knot, and
remain on the surface. In reeling the
line, the knot passes freely through the
guides, and the float slides down on
the line until it reaches the casting
weight.

Cork is a good material from which
to make the float. Cut the cork in sec-
tions, as shov\m, and fit it over a large
quill, which provides a smooth-running
hole through the float. Fit a small
glass bead in the upper end of the float,
as a stop for the knot. The knot is
of the figure-eight type, and tied as
shown in the detail at the left. It
slides easily, but grips the line tightly
enough to stop the float. An ordinary
float can be altered for use as de-
scribed.— Charles Carroll, Baltimore.
Maryland.

Adjustable and Pivoted Bed Table
Attached to Bedpost

A table arrangement which can be
clamped handily to the bedpost and
swung out of the way or removed alto-
gether when not in use, is a conven-
ience that has a wide use in the home.
A device of this kind, which requires
no floor support and can be folded
compactly for storage, is shown in the
illustration. The table proper consists
of a %-in. board, of suitable size, the
edges of which are banded with metal
or thin wooden strips. The board is
supported on a frame of iron rod, bent
to the form indicated in the dotted
lines, and clamped with ^c'in- brass
clamps. The end of this frame rod is

BEDPOST
iy^' BRASS PLATE
^"X I4" BAND IRON

TABLE BOARD

COTTEP
PIN

THiurhB

- ^ ROD

RAISED EDGE

This Handy Table Clamps on the Bedpost and can

be Swung Aside Conveniently, or

Removed Altogether

bent at an angle and pivoted in a metal
bracket. A cotter pin guards against
accidental loosening of the joint. The
clamping device is made of Vl by l^/i-
in. band iron, and is bent to fit loosely
around the bedpost. A brass plate. A,
is fitted inside of the main piece B, as
shown. A thumbscrew is threaded
into the piece B, its point engaging
the brass plate, which acts as a guard.
In fastening the piece B on the bed-
post, the thumbscrew is set, and the
wing nut also tightened. — A. Lavery,
Garfield, N. J.

A Toy Tractor Built with Dry
Cell and Motor

An ordinary two-volt dry cell, a
small motor, and the necessary wooden
parts, as shown in the illustration, are
all that is needed for the making of a
toy tractor that will give its builder a
great deal of fun. A good feature is
that the parts can be taken down

quickly and used for other purposes
when desired. A base, i/^ by 3 by 9 in.
long, is made of wood, and two axles

'/// /x

A Boy can Make This Simple Electric Tractor in a
.Short Time, and will Get Much Fun Out of It

of the same thickness are set under it,
as shown. The wheels are disks cut
from spools, or cut out of thin wood
for the rear wheels, and heavier wood
for the front ones. They are fastened
with screws and washers, or with nails.
The dry cell is mounted on small strips
and held by wires. The motor is fas-
tened with screws and wired to the dry
cell in the usual manner. One of the
front wheels serves as the driver, and
is grooved to receive the cord belt. —
J. E. Dalton, Cleveland, O.

A Compact Toilet Outfit
for the Soldier

A compact outfit, which the soldier
or camper will appreciate, consists of
a comb, brush.

and mirror,

clamped to-

gether, as

shown in the

sketch. Two

long staples are

set into the

back of the

brush handle, as

indicated. From

a board, 14 in- thick, the backing for

the metal "trench mirror" is made,

with the handle portion small enough

to fit into the staples. A small bras?

strip acts as a spring when placed

near the end of the mirror handle, and

holds th£ outfit snugly.

Preserving Leaves in Specimen Book

The common method of preserving
leaves by pressing them with an iron
rubbed on beeswax may be improved
by substituting the following process.
Paint the under side of each leaf with
linseed oil, ironing it immediately, and
then paint and iron the upper side in
the same way. This treatment gives
the leaves sufficient gloss, while they
remain quite pliable. It is not neces-
sary to press and dry the leaves before-
hand, but this, may be done if desired.
The tints may even be well preser\-ed
by painting only the upper side of the
leaves with the oil and then placing
them, without ironing, between news-
papers, under weights, to dry. — Caro-
line Bollerer, New Britain, Conn.

Removable Drawer Stop

When I least expected it, the small-
tool drawers of my tool chest have
often dropped
out, after I had
left them partly
open. The result
was a waste of
time in picking
up the tools, not
to mention the
possible injury
to them. I made small clips, like
that shown in the sketch, and fitted
them to the back of the drawers, as
at A. When it is desired to remove
the clips, the portion that extends
abo\e the drawer may be bent forward.
This is necessary only where the space
above the drawer is small. The clips
may be made large enough to fit
drawers of various sizes. — T- Harger,
Honolulu, H. I.

Pole Supports Rug Handily for
Cleaning

A rug may be handled easily for
cleaning if the pole on which it is rolled
when purchased is used as a support,
as shown in the illustration. Two
stout wires are fastened into the ends
of the pole and hooked over the tightly

stretched clothesline. The rug is sus-
pended on the roller and is thus kept
straight while it is cleaned, the ten-

The Roller on Which the Rug is Rolled When

Purchased is Used to Advantage as a

Support While Cleaning It

dency being, when only a clothesline
is used, to crumple at the middle. —
Tohn V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.

Disk Talking Machine as China-
Banding Wheel

A ser^nceable wheel for banding
hand-painted china may be had by
adapting a disk talking machine for the
purpose. Three old records are placed
on the wheel, so as to bring the surface
of the upper one slightly higher than
the center pin. The piece of china to
be banded is set on the exact center of
the disk, with the rings on the record
as a guide, and the brush may be rested
on the arm of the machine. Care must,
of course, be taken not to injure the
talking machine. — Mrs. W. Read Elmer,
Bridgeton, N. J.

Emergency Collar Button

Requiring a collar button, and, as
usual, having no extra one on hand, I
devised the .,«s=^

holder shown in - - -^

the illustration. ' -^;=s»'V ;/ -^

It proved to be ^

l)etter than a collar button for use at
the Iiack of the neckband. It was bent
into shape from a hairpin and has the
advantage of keeping the collar fixed
with little chance of becoming unfas-
tened.— W'illiam S. Thompson, Hop-
kinsville, Ky.

Making a Coasting Toboggan

Br A. M. PARKER

ESSENTIALS of a good toboggan,
whether for coasting or use in
transportation, are strength and light-
ness, and when it is to be made in the
home shop, the construction must be
simple. That shown in the ilkistration,
and detailed in the working sketches,
was designed to meet these require-
ments. The materials for the toboggan
proper and the forms over which it is
bent, may be obtained at small expense.

Smoothness of finished surface, free-
dom from tendency to splinter, and
ability to stand up under abuse being
requisite qualities in the wood used to
make a toboggan, three varieties may
be mentioned in their order of merit :
hickory, birch, and oak. Birch is softer
than hickory and easily splintered, but
acquires an excellent polish on the
bottom. Oak stands bending well, but
does not become as smooth on the
running surface as close-grained woods.
Do not use quarter-sawed oak because
of the cross-grain flakes in its structure.

While the best toboggan is made of
a single board, both the securing of

material and its construction are rather
difficult. Narrow strips are easily bent
to shape, but do not make a durable
article. A toboggan made of four
boards is practical. The mill bill for
one 71/-; ft. long by 16 in. wide and for
the bending frame, is as follows :

4 pieces, ^Ae by 4 in. by 10 ft., hard wood.

7 " 1 by 1 in. by 16 in., "

2 " Vz by 1 in. by 10 in., "

2 " 1 by 6 in. by 6 ft., comman boards.

6 " 1 by 2 in. by 18 In.,

1 cylindrical block, 12 in. diameter by IS in. long.

.A-

This Toboggan Is Strong and
Light; It will afford the Maker
Much Pleasure Both in the In-
teresting Process of Construction
and in the Use for Coasting or
Transportation. It may be Made
as an Individual Project or as a
JointUndertakingbySeveralBoys

-'•'^ja^^^is^;':^'.

The form for the bending of the
pieces is made of the common boards
and the block. A block sawed from
the end of a dry log is excellent. Heat
it, if convenient, just before bending
the strips. The boards for the bottom
should be selected for straightness of
grain and freedom from knots and
burls. Carefully plane the side
intended for the wearing surface, and
bevel the edges so that, when placed
together, they form a wide "V" joint,
half the depth of the boards. The 1 by
1-in. pieces are for cross cleats and
should be notched on one side, 1 in.
from each end, to receive the side ropes.
The two 1/2 by 1-in. pieces are to be
placed one at each side of the extreme
end of the bent portion, to reinforce it.

Bore a gimlet hole through the
centers of the 1 by 2 by 18-in pieces,
and 414 in. each side of this hole, bore

THE FIRST BENDING
OPERATION

With 3-in. nails, fasten one of the bored
pieces to the block between the boards,
inserting, temporarily, a Vo-in. piece
to hold it out that distance from the
block.

Steam about 3 ft. of the ends of the
boards, or boil them in a tank. Clamp,
or nail, the boards together, at the dry
ends, edge to edge, between two of the
1 by 2-in. pieces, leaving about Y^-in.
opening between boards. Thrust the
steamed ends under the cleat nailed on
the block, the nails which hold it slip-
ping up between the boards. Bear down
on the toboggan carefully, nailing on
another of the bored cleats, when the
toboggan boards have been curved
around the block as far as the floor will
permit. The nails, of course, go
between the boards.

Now, turn the construction over and
bend up the toboggan, following the

^\"X\" CLEATS
The Boards for the Bottom are Steamed or Boiled at the Bow Ends and Bent over the Form.
Bending Operation Progresses, the Boards are Nailed to the Form with Cleats,
and Permitted to Dry in This Position

As the

two others. Nail the end of one of the
6-ft. boards to each end of the block,
so that their extended ends are parallel.

boards around the block with more of
the nailed cleats, until the clamped end
is down between the two 6-ft. boards.

where it can be held by a piece nailed
across. More of the cleats may be
nailed on if desired; in fact, the closer
together the cleats are the less danger
there is of splintering the boards, and
the more perfect the conformity of the
boards to the mold.

Allow at least four days for drying
before removing the boards from the
form. Clamp the I/2 by 1-in. pieces one
each side of the extreme ends of the
bent bows, drill holes through, and
rivet them. A 1 by 1-in. crossbar is
riveted to the inside of the bow at the
extreme front and another directly
under the extremity of the curved end.
These cleats are wired together to hold
the bend of the bow. The tail end
crossbar should be placed not nearer
than 21/2 in. from the end of the boards,
while the remainder of the crossbars
are evenly spaced between the front
and back pieces, taking care that the
notched side is always placed down.
Trim off uneven ends, scrape and sand-
paper the bottom well, and finish the
toboggan with oil. Run a %-in. rope
through the notches under the ends of
the cross pieces, and the toboggan is
completed.

Screws are satisfactory substitutes
for rivets in fastening together the
parts, and wire nails, of a length to
allow for about %-in. clinch, give a fair
job. Indians overcome the lack of
hardware by the use of rawhide, laced
through diagonally staggered holes
bored through the crosspieces and
bottom boards. Rawhide, which they
sometimes stretch over the bow as a
protection, afifords an opportunity for
elaborate ornamentation.

the tumblers are raised by it. The bolt
is slotted and a screw placed through
it to prevent it from being moved too

Wooden Lock with Combination Key

The lock shown in the sketch and

detailed drawings is made entirely of

wood, and it is nearly impossible to

pick or open it without the use of the

key. The casing of the lock is 5 by 5

in. and 1 in. thick, of hard wood, oak

being suitable for this as well as for

the other parts. Three tumblers, a

bolt, and a keeper are required. The

key is shown inserted, indicating how
2— Oct. 22.

TUMBLERS

TUMBUER

This Lock is Made Entirely of Wood and cannot be
Picked Easily

iar. The lock and keeper are bolted
into place on a door with carriage
oolts, the heads being placed on the
outer side.

The detailed drawing shows the
parts, together with the dimensions of
each, which must be followed closely.

-T-SLOTS FOR TUMBLERS

The Details of Construction must be Observed Care-
fully and the Parts Made Accurately to
Insure Satisfactory Operation

The lock casing is grooved with two
grooves, extending the length of the
grain and connected by open mortises.

all 1/2 in. in depth. The spacing of the
mortises and the grooves is shown in
the views of the casing. Three tum-
blers, V2 in. square and 21/^ in. long, are
required. The bolt is i/o by 1 by 8 in.,
and the key % by % by 5I/2 in., and
notched as shown. All the parts of the

lock must be fitted carefully, sand-
papered smooth, and oiled to give a
finish that will aid in the operation, as
well as protect the wood. Aside from
its practical use, this lock is interesting
as a piece of mechanical construction.
• — B. Francis Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.

Variety of Uses for an Electric Iron

A milliner, in addition to using her
electric iron for ordinary purposes of
ironing and
pressing, inverts
it between two
hollow tiles and
thus makes use
of it in steaming
velvet trim-
mings. The tiles
not only hold the
iron securel}^ in
this position, but
also insulate it from overheating or
scorching adjoining objects or surfaces.
The iron is also used inverted for heat-
ing water, cooking cofTee, and other
liquids, as well as in providing a warm
lunch.

Renewing Dry Batteries with Sal
Ammoniac

Finding that drjr batteries had in-
creased in price, and requiring a num-
ber for experimental purposes, I de-
vised the following method by which I
was able to use the old batteries for a
considerable period : When the dry
cells were nearly exhausted, I punched
holes through the zinc covering with a
nail, as shown in the sketch. The holes
were placed about 1% in. apart, and
care was taken
not to punch
them near the
upper edge of the
container, or the
black insulation
might thus be in-
jured. The cells
were then placed in a saturated solu-
tion of sal ammoniac. The vessel con-
taining the liquid must be filled only to

SAUAMMONIAC

within V'2 in. from the top of the cell,
otherwise the binding posts will be cor-
roded, and the cell probably short-cir-
cuited. The cells were left in the
solution six hours, and then became re-
markably live. They must not be con-
nected or permitted to come into con-
tact with each other while in the
solution. — H. Sterling Parker, Brook-
lyn, N. Y.

A Sliding Board for Coasting

The simple device shown in the
sketch can afford youngsters much
amusement i n
coasting down
inclines or small
hills, either on
the snow or on
surfaces slightly
crusted with ice.

TOP VIEW ry,, 1 , . .

Ihe board is m-
tended for individual use only and
should be about 10 in. wide and 2G
in. long. It is reinforced underneath
by a strip of wood, about I/4 in. thick
and smoothed on its lower side. This
piece is fastened in the form of a bow
by placing a small cleat between it and
the upper piece. The strip should be
about 3 in. wide, and aids in keeping
the sliding board in its course. — John
F. Long, Springfield, Mo.

Electrical Device Transmits Striking of
Clock

Converting an ordinary parlor, or
mantel, clock into a master clock, from
which the striking of the gong is trans-
mitted to various parts of the home,
may be accomplished by fitting it with
a simple electrical device, as shown in
the sketch. The general arrangement
of the batteries, single-stroke bells, and

the contact device within the clock
case is shown in Fig. 1 ; a detail of the
silk cord and other connections of the
contact key and the gong hammer, is
shown in Fig. 2. This arrangement
has been in operation for several years,
and has been found practical.

The various rooms to which the
striking of the gong is to be trans-
mitted are wired with Xo. 18 annuncia-
tor wire, run carefully behind picture
moldings and in corners, ^\'here the
wires must be carried through a par-
tition, a i/4-in. hole is sufficiently large
for the purpose. The single-stroke
bells are wired up as shown in the
sketch. The number of dry batteries
necessary varies with the number of
bells in the circuit, and also depends
on the length of wire through which
the current is carried. A trial should
be made with several batteries and
more added until the bells are rung
properly.

The connecting device may be fitted
into the clock case without defacing it
by boring holes in its side, and the
binding posts are fixed into place
neatly. The two sections of the con-
tact key, shown in detail in Fig. 2, are
fastened to the back of the clock case
with bolts. The upper member is fitted
with an adjustable thumbscrew and is
stationary on the bolt fastening. The
lower arm is made of covered wire and
is pivoted on the supporting bolt. At-
tached to its lower edge, at the pivot, is
a small lever arm. This is connected
to the hammer rod of the gong with a
silk cord. The length of the cord must
be determined by careful adjustment
so that it will not hinder the action
of the hammer H, but will bring the
swinging arm into proper contact with
the thumbscrew. The contact should
lie made at the instant the hammer
strikes the bell. The contact of the
platinum point of the thumbscrew and
the swinging arm must be close, but
not too strong. Metal posts or tubes
fitted over the bolts, at the points
where the arms are attached to the
back of the clock case, may be used to
bring the arms the proper distance for-
ward in the case, co that they will be

in alinement with the ' hammer rod.
The silk cord must not interfere with
the action of the pendulum P. To hold

SINGLE-STROKE BELLS

clock bell
Silk

THREAD'

BATTERIES
- STATIONARY ARM
■ SWINGING ARM

The General Arrangement of the Apparatus for Trans-
mitting the Striking of a Clock Gong is Shown in
Fig. 1, and a Detail of the Contact Device in Fig. 2

the silk cord in place on the hammer
rod, drop a small piece of melted seal-
ing wax or solder on the rod. — W. E.
Day, Pittsfield, Mass.

Antique Signboard Made of
Headboard of Bed

Some old headboards of beds are of
such a pattern that they lend them-
selves readily for use as signboards,
with only slight alteration. Such an
adaptation is shown in the sketch, and
was fitted to a bracket of ornamental
iron, the whole producing a striking
effect. The sign was made of black
\valnut and was, by reason of its age.

A Signboard Which

Attracts Attention

was Made of the

Headboard of a

Walnut Bed

ASHLANd

Lr~\ ROOMS

well seasoned. It was treated with
several coats of linseed oil to withstand
the action of the weather better.

Auto Horn for Child's Play Vehicle

A baking-powder, or other tinned,
can may be used to make the small au-
tomobile horn shown in the illustration.

This Small Auto Horn was Made of a Tinned Can
Fitted with a Notched Wheel and Pawls

for use on a child's coaster wagon. The
device consists of a toothed wheel oper-
ating against several metal pawls
within the can, and the warning sound
is produced by turning a small crank
at the end of the can. The can is fixed
to the side of the vehicle by means of a
wire or strap-iron bracket, as shown in
the sketch at E.

A piece of wood is fitted into the can,
to support the ratchet wheel. It is
bored to carry a shaft, which bears in
the end of the can, and at the exposed
end of which is fixed a crank. A disk
of wood, about ^A in. thick, is cut to
have a notched edge, as shown at A.
The notched wheel is placed upon the
shaft, and fastened securely to it, so
that the ratchet wheel revolves with
the shaft when the crank on the latter
is turned. Four small pawls of sheet
metal, are fixed on the inner support,
as shown at B. They are made by cut-
ting pieces of metal to the shape shown
at C, and folding them, as shown at D.
They are fastened to the support with
small screws or nails. The cover is
placed on the end of the can when the
device is used. The action of the
ratchet wheel against the pawls is to
produce a loud grating sound, resem-
bling that of a horn of the siren type. —
William Freebury, Buffalo, N. Y.

Wall Pocket for Paste Tubes

A small paste tube of the collapsible
variety is hard to keep at hand on the
desk and occasionally, if left uncov-
ered, the contents may be forced out
on papers or on the table. A simple
container may be made for the tube
by cutting the carton in which the
tube is packed with a penknife, so as
to expose the upper end of the tube.
The cover and upper end of the back
of the carton is doubled over to pro-
vide an extra thickness for a support,
by which the contrivance may be sus-
pended on the wall. — T. H. Linthicum,
Annapolis, Md.

Cutting Thin Wooden Disks

Instead of cutting thin wooden disks
with a coping saw, making it necessary
to smooth ofif the circumference of the
disk, more satisfactory results may be
had by the following method : De-
termine the center from which the cir-
cumference of the disk is to be struck.
Drive a nail through a strip of wood,
about 1 in. wide and i/4 in. thick, and
into the center of the proposed disk.
At a point on the strip, so as to strike
the circumference of the disk, drive
two sharp brads, as shown in the sec-
tional view of the sketch, arranging
them to act as saw teeth, by driving
them at an angle, with a slight space
between the points. By grasping the
end of the strip and drawing it care-
fully around the center a number of

TT^^L.

4 — -r:=.^

NAru TEETH

Draw the Strip with Its Saw-Tooth Brads around the
Center, Cutting Out the Disk

times, the disk may be cut cleanly. By
cutting from one side nearly through
the board, and then finishing the cut
from the other, an especially good job
results. — S. E. Woods, Seattle, Wash.

(gi YA(gfr^T

-;r^

bi| John F. Pjerrou

LARGE spread of canvas and great
speed when running with the
wind, or "free"; stability under heavy-
wind, and adaptability to sailing under
conditions similar to those of the com-
mon, single-boom-and-sheet ice boat,
are the features of the ice yacht sliown
in the illustration. The runner and
frame structure is in general typical of
ice-boat construction. The double, or
wishbone, mast is distinctive, as is the
double-boom and sail arrangement,
shown in Figs. 1 and 6. The booms
are pivoted at the bow of the craft, and
controlled at the stern by the usual line
and pulley rigging. The booms may
be spread so that a V-shaped cavity is
afforded for taking the wind when run-
ning free, or they may be brought to-
gether and both sails manipulated as a
single sheet. Reefing and lowering of
the sails are accomplished in the usual
manner. The framework is very sub-
stantial and the proportions are of mod-
erate range, so that the craft may be
constructed economically for one or
two passengers. The double-boom fea-
ture may be omitted if the craft is to
be used where little or no opportunity
is afforded for running before the wind.
by reason of the particular ice areas
available. For the experimenter with
sailing craft, the wishbone-mast ice
yacht affords opportunity for adapta-
tion of the var'ous elements of the
craft described, and is a novelty. The
dimensions given are for a small yacht,
and care must be taken, in adapting the
design, to maintain proper proportions
for stability and safety. A side view
with working dimensions is shown in
Fig. 1 ; inset into it is Fig. 6, showing
a front view of the mast and sail ar-

rangement. Figure 2 shows a view of
the framework from below. A detail
of the fastening of the backbone and
runner plank is shown in Fig. 3 ; a de-
tail of the fastening of the masts and
the forward runners into the runner
plank, in Fig. 4, and the fixture by
which the booms and the yard are at-
tached to the forward end of the back-
bone, in Fig. 5.

The construction should begin with
the making of the lower framework, as
shown in Fig. 2 viewed from the lower
side. The main frame consists of a
backbone, of spruce or white pine, 4 in.
thick, 8 in. high at the center, and 16 ft.
long, clamped accurately at right an-
gles to a runner plank, of the same ma-
terial, 2 in. thick, 10 in. wide, and 12 ft.
G in. long. The backbone is tapered
from the middle portion. 5 ft. 6 in. from
the forward end, and with a ridge, 8 in.
high and 2 ft. 6 in. long, measured from
the end of the taper at this end, as
shown in Fig. 1. It is tapered to 4 in.
at each end, and the bow end is fitted
with a three-eye metal ring, as shown
in detail in Fig. 5. The runner plank
and the backbone are clamped together
firmly at their crossing, the backbone
being set upon the plank, by means of
two strap bolts, with washers and nuts,
as shown in detail in Fig. 3. Only the
best material should be used in the
backbone and runner plank, and the
stock should be straight-grained, to
give the greatest strength.

The runner plank is tapered down to
8 in. at its ends, to which the guides for
the forward runners are fixed. The
guides are of straight-grained oak, ly^
by 3 by 14 in., bolted to the runner
plank with /le-in. carriage bolts, as

shown in the detail sketch, Fig. 4, and
in Fig. 2. The guides and the ends of
the plank are reinforced with oak
chocks, bolted in place at each of the
tapered edges of the plank. The for-
ward runners are of oak, II/2 by 5 by
36 in., shaped at their ends as shown,
and shod with half-round strap iron.
The heads of the screws used for this
purpose are countersunk carefully. The
runners are pivoted on %-in. bolts, the
nuts being set to the inner side. Wash-
ers and jam nuts should be provided,
or the ends of the bolts riveted slightly,
to prevent the nuts from becoming
loosened.

The stern runner is of oak, l^/o by 0
by 30 in., shod like the forward run-
ners, and is pivoted in a forged
wrought-iron hanger. The lower por-
tion of the hanger may be made of a
strip of heavy iron, bent into a U-shape,
and drilled to receive a %-in. bolt, on
which the runner pivots. The U-shaped
piece is riveted firmly to a vertical
shaft, provided with a heavy rubber
washer, protected from wear by a metal
one, as indicated at the right in Fig. 1.
The upper end of the shaft is threaded
to receive a washer and nut. A section
of pipe is fitted over the shaft, and the
steering handle, fitted to a square sec-
tion of the shaft, is clamped securely.

The cockpit is fixed to the lower side
of the backbone, and is 5 ft. long and 3
ft. wide, with coaming, 4 in. high. It is
shown with square corners, since this
construction is convenient, though not
as good as the type having the ends of
the cockpit rounded, and fitted with
coaming steamed and bent to the curve.
The floor of the cockpit is fastened to
the backbone with lag screws, and the
coaming is also fastened securely ; this
construction, if carefully made, will af-
ford ample strength. If desired, espe-
ciall}' in larsrer craft, ribs may be fixed
to the backbone, to carry the cockpit.

The runners, the runner plank, and
the backbone must be alined carefully,
so that they are at right angles, and
track properly ; otherwise the craft will
not keep a true course, and cannot be
controlled properly by the rudder run-
ner. The backbone and runner plank

are held rigidly by four i/4-iii. wire-rope
stays, shown in Fig. 2. They are fixed
to eyes on the bands at the bow, near
the ends of the runner plank, and to an
eyebolt below the cockpit. The stays
are provided with turnbuckles, so that
they may be adjusted as required. The
bands near the ends of the runner plank
are fixed to the lower ends of the masts,
as shown in detail in Fig. 4, and are re-
inforced with oak blocks. The ends of
the guy wires are fastened to the eyes
by looping them and clamping the re-
sulting eye with steel clamps made for
this purpose. Metal thimbles may be
fitted into the loop of the rope, to make
a better finish ; other fastenings may
easily be devised by one skilled enough
to make such a construction.

The wishbone mast is made of two
poles of hickory or ash, S^'o in. thick at
the base, and tapered to 3 in. at the
top. The poles are joined carefully at
the masthead, bolted together, and fit-
ted to an oak breast hook, as sliown
in Fig. 6. An iron strap reinforces the
joint, and an eye, fashioned at its upper
end, afifords a point of attachment for
the forward stay of the mast. The
lower ends of the poles forming the
mast are fitted into sockets in the run-
ner plank, which is reinforced with
mast blocks, as shown in Fig. 4. The
ends of the mast, projecting beyond the
lower side of the runner plank, are
fitted with eye bands, used in guying
the runner plank and backbone.

The sails are carried on a 3'ard and
two booms, of the same material as the
masts, each 16 ft. long, 2% in. at the
middle and tapering to IVU in. at the
ends. They are fitted with metal rings
at the ends to prevent splitting. The
yard and booms are fitted to the back-
bone at the bow by means of loops
bolted to them and engaging an eye-
bolt and ring on the backbone. The
eyebolt is fitted into ^ slotted plate of
?'iG-in- sheet iron, and fastened by a
lever nut, as shown in Fig. 5. The
sheets are fastened to the yard and
booms in the usual manner, being fitted
with grommets, and tied with line. The
yard is suspended from the masthead
by means of a line and pulley, the

JC«V\V^XV«WSWWSSSXWVVVXX«»X«V%NVV\NVVVVXVV\V>VVVVW^^^

The Wishbone Mast Provides a Strong
Construction of Marked Stability, and the
Double Booms and Sails Permit of Great
Speed When Running before the Wind.
When Tacking, the Sails and Booms are
Used as One Boom and Sheet. Figure 1
Shows the Side Elevation ; Fig. 2 a View of
the Lower Side, and the Details are Shown
in the Other Figures

former being c'eated to the backbone.
The booms are controlled by the oper-
ator from the cockpit, by the use of
lines and pulleys, similar to the ar-
rangement used on sailboats, except
that a duplicate set is required for the
additional boom. The lines are cleated
on the backbone convenient to the
cockpit.

The sails are of the lateen type, and
should be made of 8-0^. unbleached cot-
ton duck. The breadths are sewn to-
gether by lapping one edge over the
other about 1 in., and sewing or stitch-
ing along the edge. Yard-wide ma-
terial is satisfactory, and if narrower
laps or bights are desired, simply fold
over 1 in. of the goods and double-
stitch the seam. The bights should run
parallel with the after, or leach, edge
of the sail, as shown in Fig. 1. Each
corner of the sail should be reinforced
with a triangular patch of duck, so that
it will stand up under the severe strain
of winter usage. The edges of the sail
may be bound with ^.'i-in. tarred rope,
which is not difficult if a sailor's palm
and a diamond-pointed needle are used.
Sail twine, well waxed, should be used
for the sewing of the sails.

The edges of the sails adjoining the
yard and booms are provided with
grommet holes by means of which the
sails are attached to their supports.
The grommets are made by punching
holes in the sails, at the proper points,
fitting tv/o 34-in. brass grommet rings
into the holes, one at each side, and
overcasting them with a buttonhole
«titch. The sail needle and waxed sail
twine are used. The reef points are of
the usual type, and are made of %-in.
cotton rope, whipped at the ends to pre-
vent raveling, and sewed to the sails
at intervals.

The craft is designed to be taken
down when not in use, particularly be-
tween seasons, and can be stored in
comparatively small space, in the
knockdown form. The method of set-
ting up the ice yacht will serve to illus-
trate, also, the method of taking it
down, in that the process is practically
reversed. First, the backbone is fitted
with the forward ring and the strap

bolts are fastened at the crossing of the
backbone and runner plank. The run-
ners are fitted into place, and the steer-
ing rigging is adjusted. The wishbone
mast is set into its steps, clamped at its
masthead, and the bands fitted to the
lower ends. The guy wires at the bot-
tom and that at the masthead are then
set, by means of the turnbuckles. The
sails are attached to the yard and
booms, and the forward end of the lat-
ter supports are fixed into place. The
pulley at the masthead is fitted with
%-in. rope which is fastened to the
yard, at the proper point, as indicated
in Fig. 1. The rigging by which the
booms are controlled is threaded
through the pulleys at the stern and the
ends fixed on the cleats. The yard may
now be hauled up and the craft trimmed
so that the sails "set" properly. The
halyard is fixed to the yard, as shown,
and run through a pulley at the mast-
head, then down through a second pul-
ley fixed to the runner plank, from
which it is conducted to cleats conven-
ient to the operator in the cockpit.

The main sheets are rigged as shown
in Fig. 1. The ends of the lines are
lashed to the ends of the booms, passed
through pulleys, at the stern of the
backbone, on the booms, about 1 ft.
from the ends, and 5 ft. from the ends,
respectively, then down to the cleats at
the cockpit. This rigging gives good
purchase on the lines and makes it con-
venient for the operator to attend to
the helm and the lines at the same time.
The fittings are, as nearly as possible,
designed to be standard and may be
purchased from ship chandlers, or deal-
ers in marine hardware and fittings.
The special metal parts may be made
by one of fair mechanical skill, or may
be made by local blacksmiths. The
woodwork is all comparatively simple.
The masts, yard, and booms should
be smoothed carefully, sandpapered
lightly, and finished with several coats
of spar varnish. The other woodwork
may be painted suitably, and the metal
fittings should be finished with two
coats of red lead, or other good paint
for use on metals exposed to the
weather.

The manipulation of this craft is in
general similar to that of the common
lateen-rig, or other sail and ice, boats.
When running before the wind — free —
the booms are separated and the wind
acts against the sails in the pocket be-
tween them. When tacking, the booms
are brought together, and the sails act
as one sheet, on a craft of the ordinary
type.

The cap is li/^ in. square, and its edges
are chamfered slightly, as are those on
the upper edge of the base. The pieces

Cork Plugs Save Wear on Drafting
Board

Draftsmen, whose work demands the
use of drawing paper of uniform size,
sometimes experience difSculty in lix-
ing thumb tacks solidly in the board.
This is caused b}^ the continual placing
of tacks in the same spot and may be
overcome by the use of cork plugs
which can be removed when worn. At
the four points where the tacks are
generally placed, bore 1-in. holes nearly
through the board. Insert corks large
enough to be forced into the holes and
trim them off flush with the surface.
Tacks will hold firmly in them and
new corks may be inserted as needed.
— G. F. Thompson, Pittsburgh, Pa.

Stand for a Test-Tube Flower Vase

A test-tube vase, containing a single
blossom, adds color and a certain in-
dividual touch to the business man's
desk, or it may be used with effective-
ness in the home. A simple wooden
stand, finished to harmonize with the
surroundings, may be made easily, and
affords a support and protection for the
test tube. The sketch shows a small
stand of this type, made of oak, in the
straight-line mission style. It may be
adapted to other woods and to various
designs in straight or curved lines.

The base is 2^/2 in- square, and rests
on two cross strips, 1 in. wide. All the
material may be about 14 in. thick, but
it is desirable to have the base and cap
pieces of thicker stuff'. The uprights
may be of ^s to Vi-'m. stuff", and are
notched together as shown. They are
1 in. wide and 6^,4 in. long, a portion
being cut out to receive the test tube.

are fitted
used as hi
are glued,
the pieces
sunk into
holes filled
be stained
and given

The Stand

Provides a

Support and

Protection for

the Test-Tube

Vase on the

Office Desk or

in the Home

together with small brads,
dden dowels, and the joints
Brads may be used to nail
together, and they should be
the wood, and the resulting
carefully. The stand should
a dark color, or left natural,
a coat of shellac or varnish.

Pouring Liquids Quickly from
Containers

In pouring a liquid from a jug or bot-
tle, the vessel should be held with the
opening downward, rather than hori-
zontally, if convenient, and swung
quickly with a circular motion. The
liquid will rotate and in leaving the
opening will permit air to enter con-
tinuously, causing the liquid to run out
rapidly and without intermittent gurg-
ling sounds. If the opening of the
container is at one side it is best to
hold the container so that the openins;
is at the highest point of the end rather
than at the bottom. The air may thus
enter and permit a continuous flow
until the container is empty. — E. F.
Koke, Colorado Springs, Colo.

A Table-Knife Sharpener

The knife sharpener shown can be
easily made of two pieces of thin wood,
such as cigar-
box covers,
about 2 in. wide
and 21/2 in. long,
and two d i s-
carded safety-
razor blades of
the heavier type.
Lay the wood
pieces together
and saw a slot
down the cen-
ter for about 1%
in. Lay the two
razor blades at an angle of about 2°
on each side of the slot, as shown,
fasten them to one of the boards, and
securely attach the other board over
them.

To sharpen a knife, run it through
the slot two or three times. The
sharpener can be fastened with a hinge
so that it will swing inside of the
drawer, or box, that the knives are
kept in, and it will always be ready for
use. — Contributed by Henry J. Marion,
Pontiac, Mich.

Raising and Lowering Curtain at a
Distance

To enable an invalid, or any other
person, to easily raise and lower a cur-

the roller, at the center and on the inner
side of the curtain. The ribbon may ex-
tend across the room in line with the
window, and still operate the curtain as
well as with the regular cord attached
to the bottom. If desirable to operate
the curtain by a vertical pull, a flat pul-
ley may be conveniently fastened to the
ceiling or wall, and the ribbon passed
over it, or through a ring, as shown.
This plan is especially adapted for
show windows where the curtain string
would otherwise mar the appearance,
and be hard to get at. — Contributed by
L. E. Turner, New York, N. Y.

A Ribbon or Tape Attached to a Curtain Roller to
Operate It at a Distance

tain from a position at a distance from
the window, a ribbon can be attached to

The Mystic Climbing Ring

The performer hands out a wand
for examination and borrows a finger
ring. He holds
the wand in his
hand, point up-
ward, and drops
the ring on it,
then makes
mesmeric passes
over the wand
with the other,
and causes the
ring to climb
toward the top,
stop at any place
desired, pass
backward, and at last fall from the
wand. The wand and ring are ex-
amined again by the audience.

To produce this little trick, the per-
former must first provide himself with
a round, black stick, about l-t in. long,
a piece of No. 60 black cotton thread,
about 18 in. long, and a small bit of
beeswax. Tie one end of the thread
to the top button on the coat and to
the free end stick the beeswax, which
is stuck to the lower button until ready
for the trick.

After the wand is returned, secretly
stick the waxed end to the top of the
wand, then drop the ring on it. Mov-
ing the wand slightly from oneself will
cause the ring to move upward, and
relaxing it causes the ring to fall. In
the final stage remove the thread and
hand out the wand for examination.

3By ^tillmanThylcKl

"'l^te*#

PART I — Prominent Types of
Modern Skis

'X' HE requirements of the modern ski
-'■ call for a hard, flexible, and tough
material, and while hickory, white ash,
white maple, birch, j^ellow pine, white
pine, and spruce are all used, the experi-
enced ski runner considers hickory and
ash to combine in the fullest measure
the qualities most desired. Of course,
every wood has its limitations as well
as merits. Hickory is elastic and fairly
toug-h, but heavy. Ash resembles hick-
ory so far as elasticity is concerned, and
its weight is about the same, but the
wood contains soft layers. Birch pos-
sesses the requisite lightness, but is far
too brittle to prove serviceable, and pine
is open to the same objection. Maple
makes an excellent ski, which can be
finished very smooth so as to slide more
easily than the other woods, but it is
much less flexible than either hickory
or ash.

The Telemark-Model Ski

This form of ski, so called from the
Telemarken province of Norway, where
the art of ski running has reached a
high order of skill, is probably the
choice of the sportsmen wherever the
exhilarating sport of ski running is
practiced, and the larger portion of the
members of the numerous skiing clubs
use the Telemark-model ski. This type
is practically identical with the most

popular model so long used in Tele-
marken, and the rule for its selection is
to choose a pair whose length reaches
the middle joint of the fingers when the
arm is stretched above the head. There
are various makers of this type of ski,
and while the modeling w'ill be found
to differ but little, there are numerous
brands sold which are fashioned of
cheap and flimsy material, and conse-
quently unsatisfactory in every re-
spect.

The Telemark model is shown in
Fig. 1, and from this sketch it will be
seen that the wood has two curves or
bends, one running its entire length to
form a graceful arch, and the second,
at the toe. The first one is technically
known as the "arch," and the other
curve the "bend," while the front or toe
end of the ski is called the "point," and
the rear end the "heel." In almost all
skis the under, or running, surface is
provided with a hollow, known as the
"groove," which runs from the heel to
the bend. It will be noticed in the
drawing that the sides also 'are gently
curved, thus making the ski a trifle
broader at the ends than in the center.
This curve affords a somewhat greater
bend at the heel, and while some experts
approve, others disapprove of it, but
most ski runners agree that the curve
should not be pronounced, or it will
prove a handicap and make it difficult
for the runner to secure a firm grip at
the edge when ascending steep slopes
covered with hard snow.

The "arch" of the ski is necessary to
avoid bending when the weight of the
body is on the runner, and the total
height of this important curve should
not exceed % in., for a too exaggerated
arch will practically form a concave
running surface and retard the speed.

since it will run on two edges, or points,
instead of on tlie entire running surface.
A sliglit arch may be reckoned neces-
sary to offset the weight of the body,
but the utility of the ski, in nearly
every instance, will be less affected by
too little arch than by too great a curve
at this point.

A good ski is told at a glance by its
bend, which must never be abruptly
formed, nor carried too high. A maxi-
mum cun'e of 6 in. is all that is ever
required, and to prevent breaking at
this, the weakest, part of the ski, the
bend must be gradual like the curve of
a good bow, thus making it more flex-
ible and elastic at this point. As a rule,
the ski should be fashioned a trifle
broader at the bend than at any other
point, and the wood should be pared
moderately thin, which will make it
strong and resilient with plenty of
spring, or "backbone."

The groove in the running surface is
so formed as to make the ski steady and
prevent "side slip" when running
straightaway. In fact this groove may
be compared to the keel of a boat, and
as the latter may be made too deep,
making it difficult to steer the craft and
interfering with the turning, so will the
badly formed groove interfere with the
control of the ski. The Telemark
round-faced groove is by far the best
form, and for all-around use is com-
monly made y^o or ^'^ in. deep. Not all
Telemark skis are thus fashioned, how-
ever, some being made without the
groove, while others are provided with
two, and I have seen one marked with
three parallel hollows. The shallow
groove is the most satisfactory for gen-
eral use, and while a groove, % or % in.
deep, is good enough for straightaway
running, it makes turning more diffi-
cult.

To attach the ski binding, which se-
cures the shoe to the runner, a hole in
the form of a narrow slit is made just
back of the center. This is the usual
manner of attaching the foot binding,
and while it cannot but weaken the ski
to a certain extent, it is the best method
for making a secure foot fastening, and
weakens the wood to a much less ex-

tent than the use of bolts, or other metal
fastening.

So far as finish is concerned, most
Norwegian makers finish their skis with
a coat of black paint, while other mak-
ers stain the wood, and some finish the
wood in the natural color by varnishing.
This applies to the upper surface only,
the running surface being rubbed down
with linseed oil and made smooth with
wax.

The Swedish Ski

This type of ski is made quite long
and comparatively narrow, with a deep
groove, and is well adapted for run-
ning on the level or for gliding down
slight slopes. This type of ski is com-
monly used in Lapland and to a less
extent in the northern parts of Nor-
way, but the great length and quick,
short bend make this model less
adapted for ordinary use, since the deep,
rectangular groove slows down the
speed, and the great length makes turn-
ing doubly difficult. For special condi-
tions this type is probably useful, but it
can scarcely be considered suited to the
average use.

Lilienfeld Ski

This type of ski is favored by but
comparatively few ski runners, and the
modeling is inferior to the Telemark
ski. The arch is excessive in height,
the bend is abrupt and stiff, while the
round point, fashioned to prevent stick-
ing in loose brush, has apparently little
value in actual use. The Lilienfeld ski
is made without a groove, and since the
whole model is shorter and broader than
the usual type of ski, turning is more
easily accomplished, but side slipping
is, of course, considerably increased.
Ease in turning is a desirable qualit}^
to be sure, but steadiness and immunity
from side slipping are far more valuable
qualities in a ski designed for all-around
use. In short, the Lilienfeld model pos-
sesses no decided advantages over the
Telemark type, but has many points of
inferiority. To one who has used both
models there can be no question but
that the Telemark model is preferable.

When purchasing skis the sportsman

infill inake no mistake in selecting the
Teleniark model, and for an active per-
son the skis should be long enough to
reach to the middle joint of the fingers,
when the arms are stretched above the

straight running, uphill skiing, and for
jumping.

The best materials are hickory, or
white ash, with a straight, even grain
running from end to end. Ash is well

[Ii!lE%]

The Telemark, Swedish, and Lilienfeld Models with Grooves and Grooveless Bottoms, the Telemark Being

the Standard and Best AU-Around Ski; the Swedish Is Long and Narrow with Upturned Heel, and

the Lilienfeld Is Short with a Round Point, More Abrupt Bend, and without a Groove

head, and the ski is stood upright on its
heel. The length of a pair so selected
will be from TVo to 8 ft. For elderly
and less active persons, for individuals
of short stature, and for ladies, skis
reaching to the wrist joint will be about
right; the length ranging from 6iA to
7 ft. For youths and children shorter
skis, from 5 to 6 ft. in length, accord-
ing to the size and strength of the
person, are of course required.

For all-around use where a large
amount of straight running is done, the
running surface should be provided
with a groove, but if there is not much
straight work to be done, and ease in
turning is regarded as an important fac-
tor, the running surface should be made
smooth. This necessitates making the
skis to order, for practically all ready-
made skis of the Telemark model are
fashioned with a shallow groove.
However, a groove may be easily cut
in at any time if wanted later on. While
other types are at times preferred for
special use in certain localities, the Tele-
mark-model ski is the standard, being
equally good for all kinds of work.

liked by many experts, but it would in-
deed be difficult to find a more satis-
factory wood than our American hick-
ory. In fact, many of the most promi-
nent makers in Europe are now fashion-
ing their skis from American timber.
As a rule, the best well-seasoned ash,
or hickory, is heavier in weight than
an inferior grade, and this is why the
expert skier considers weight as one of
the reliable "earmarks" of first-class
material. A good hickory, or ash, ski
made by any reputable maker will give
the fullest measure of satisfaction.

The finish of skis is purely a matter
of personal taste, but practically all
Norwegian skis are painted black on
the upper side, while a few of the
cheaper maple and pine implements are
stained. The plain varnished finish
protects the wood as well as paint, but
allows the grain to show through, and
is generally preferred by experts. The
running surface must be as smooth as
possible to obtain the best speed, and it
must not be varnished, the wood being
filled with several coats of linseed oil
to which a little wax has been added.

Fio.2

Tar is used to some extent, but this
preparation is mostly employed by
Swedish makers.

The Requirements of Foot Binding

The manner in which the foot is se-
cured to the ski is highly important, and
while various kinds of "bindings" are
in use, from the
pimple cane bind-
i n g , which
marked the first
substantial im-
provement over
the twisted birch
withes originally
used by the peasantry of Telemarkcn,
the Huitfeldt bindings are for many
reasons considered the best by experts.
The ski runner must have a foot bind-
ing that is well secured under all ordi-
nary conditions met with in ski run-
ning, and it must be quite rigid and
without lateral play. It is desirable
also that the foot be freed whenever a
fall occurs, thus preventing possible
sprains at the ankle and knee, as well
as avoiding breakage of the straps.
Again the heel of the skier should be
free to move up and down for at least
3 in., but the binding should check the
vertical movement at this height, thus
casing the foot of undue strain when the
ski is slid forward, in climbing or work-
ing on the level. These essential speci-
fications are so well incorporated in the
Huitfeldt model that the description
and illustrations of this admirable at-
tachment will suffice. As shown in
Fig. 3, the boot is wedged into a firm
position between the metal toe piece at
the sides. To secure a rigid support,
these toe pieces must be firmly wedged
in position on the ski, and the skiing
shoe should fit between them snugly
and well. For this type of binding, a
shoe having a stout sole is desirable so
that it may keep rigid under the pres-
sure of the body at various angles, and
be heavy enough to stand the more or
less constant chafing of the metal toe
plates. One excellent feature of this
binding is the arrangement of the toe
and heel straps, which allow all neces-
sary vertical movement of the foot, yet

at the same time provide a fairly rigid,
strong, and reasonably light foot at-
tachment. When fitted with the Ellef-
sen tightening clamp, and it is a good
plan to order the Huitfeldt model so
equipped, the skis are easily put on and
taken ofif. A large number of experts
prefer this binding above all others, but
the Huitfeldt type of binding may be
made by the skier if desired. Any metal-
worker or blacksmith can supply the
metal toe pieces, and the binding may
be completed by adding suitable straps,
or the foot may be secured at the heel
by leather thongs.

The Skiing Stick

While there are occasions when the
proficient ski runner can dispense with
the stick, as in jumping and practicing
many fancy turns and swings, a good
stick must be reckoned a valuable im-
plement for climbing and downhill run-
ning, and often a help on a level. The
beginner should not depend too much
upon the stick, however, but should ac-
quire the knack of handling the skis
without this aid early in his practice.
In short, the novice should practice both
with and without the stick, that he may
learn all the little points of balancing
the body unaided, but every skier ought
to know how to use the stick, that he
may rely upon its assistance whenever
necessary.

The use of two sticks may be of help
for mountain climbing, but the majority
of ski runners consider one stout stick
to be of more real service. For down-
hill running, the extra stick is of no
value whatever, but rather a hindrance,
the one stick being all that is required
for braking. In choosing a stick, its
height may be such that it will reach
to the shoulders of the skier, although
many prefer a shorter one. On the av-
erage, a stick 5 ft. long will be found
about right for most persons, while a
proportionately shorter stick will be re-
quired for boys and girls. Bamboo of
good quality is generally preferred,
since it is light, elastic, and very stiff
and strong. Hardwood sticks are a
trifle heavier, but if fashioned from
straight-grain hickory, or ash, are as

satisfactory as the bamboo. In any
case, the end of the stick should be pro-
vided with a metal ice peg, and a fer-
rule to strengthen the wood at this
point. A few inches above the peg a
ring, or disk, is fastened, and this
"snow washer" senses to keep the stick
from sinking too deeply into the snow.
Wicker rings, secured with thongs or
straps, are much used, as are also disks
of metal and hard rubber. A decided
improvement over these materials has
been brought out in a cup-shaped snow
washer made of aluminum, which is
flexible and fastened to the stick with
clamps so that it can be easily shifted
or removed at will. This feature is a
good one, since the washer is often use-
ful for assisting braking in soft snow,
but is likely to catch and throw the
runner if used upon crusted snow,
hence the detachable arrangement is of
value in that it supplies an easy way to
take off the washer whenever desired.
The sticks are shown in Fig. 3.

Necessities of the Skier's Outfit

For skiing an ordinary pair of heavy-
soled lace shoes that fit well are suit-
able, but to keep the heel strap of a
binding from slipping, the shoes should
have broad, concave heels, or a small
strap and buckle, firmly sewed in place
at the extreme end of the heel, should
be fitted to them. Personally, I prefer
the heel strap to the special heel, but
any cobbler can fit the shoes with either
one. Specially designed skiing shoes,
or boots, as shown in Fig. 4, are to be
had at the sporting-goods dealers', and
while good, are somewhat expensive.
because most of them are imported. Of
course, shoes for skiing must be amply
large so that one or two pairs of woolen
socks may be worn ; two pairs of thin,
woolen stockings being less bulky and
very much warmer than one extremely
heavy pair.

For clothing, the soft, smooth finish
of the regulation mackinaw garments
cannot be improved upon for outdoor
winter wear, although any suitable ma-
terial will serve as well. Smooth-finish
material is the best in all cases, because
cloth of rough texture will cause the

snow to stick and make it uncomfort-
able. Regulation mackinaw trousers,
split at the bottom and fastened with
tapes to tie close to the ankle, are as
good as any, over which cloth puttees,

.ris.3

Skiing Sticks with Staff of Bamboo or Hard Wood
Having an Easily Removable Aluminum Washer

or leggings, may be worn to keep out
the snow. For the coat, a mackinaw,
made Norfolk-style, with belt and flap
pockets secured with a button, have
given me the most satisfaction. For
ladies, close-fitting knickerbockers and
leggings are generally preferred when
a short skirt is worn.

How to Make Skis

To anyone who can use a saw and
plane, the making of a pair of nicely
balanced and durable skis is a very easy
job. Ski making is far easier than
snowshoe construction, since each run-
ner is made from a single piece of plank,
and no intricate filling is required. In
choosing the wood, either hickory or
ash will give satisfaction, because both
are heavy woods, as well as strong and
flexible, and may be worked down much

Specially Designed Skiing

Boots, Handmade for the

Sport, with and without

Heel Buckles

thinner than birch, fir, or other mate-
rials. If it is desired to fashion the skis
from the rough material, procure two
ash, or hickory, planks, about 9 ft. long
and 3 in. thick. Should the maker wish

to hew his own material, select a sound
and straight tree, about 10 in. in diam-
eter, free from knots for at least 10 ft.,

HEEL

--*t-,.--- GROOVE- FROM HEEL TO BEND

how to pick out this desirable material
by noting the run of the grain. This
is very well shown in Fig. 6. The let-

HEEL ARCH BEND lOt

A Complete Layout Pattern for an Eight-Foot Ski: From These Dimensions It Is an Easy Matter
to Fashion Skis Longer or Shorter by Making Use of These Well-Balanced Proportions

and fell it during the winter. Place the
log in the crotch of a stump and cut a
groove along its length with the ax,
taking pains that the groove is straight
and about 1 in. in depth. Turn the log
over and make a like groove in the op-
posite side. Rap the bottom of the
grooves lightly with the ax, to start the
split, and drive in small wood wedges,
gradually working them along as the
wood splits. At some points the wood
will very likely split away from the
groove, but by cutting these fibers, the
split may be kept along the grooves. As
the strongest and best grain of the wood
will lie closest to the bark, only enough
of the outside should be hewn away to
make a flat surface, for this is to be the
running surface of the ski. Skis may
be made in any length and width, but
for a man of good height, 7 to 8 ft. is
the correct length. In Fig. 5 is given a
complete layout pattern for an 8-ft. ski,
and from the dimensions it is an easy
matter to fashion skis longer or shorter
by making use of these well-balanced
proportions. While the plan of the ski
may be drawn directly on the plank, it
is an excellent idea to make a paper pat-
tern, and laying this down on the board,
trace around it to get the correct out-
line.

When purchasing the sawed material,
the buyer should endeavor to obtain a
plank which has been sawed out from
the lower portion of the trunk of the
tree, from the outside. The dealer will
not be able to assist in choosing lumber
for this particular purpose, hence the
buyer should know something about the
growth of good wood in the tree, and

ters A, B, and C show the run of the
grain produced by the ring growth of
the tree, and D, E, and F indicate the
appearance of rings, in the run of the
grain seen in the sawed plank. The
best possible choice for wood is repre-
sented by A and D, because the layers
of good and elastic wood run deep, and
there is practically no soft layers of
punky wood. That represented by B
and E, and that of C and F, contain a
larger percentage of soft layers, and
while skis can be, and often are, fash-
ioned from this kind of material, the
wood is less strong and flexible than
that of wood showing the grain as A
and D, hence the latter should be
chosen whenever it is possible to do so.
While wood of fairly close grain does
not necessarily indicate inferiority, if
the material is hickory, yet if ash is
selected, the purchaser should select
an open, or widely spaced, grain in pref-
erence to a close and even-grained
plank. And this is so because in all
trees the grain represents the more
quickly grown soft wood — formed in
the period of greatest growth, which is
in the spring and summer months —
hence the more grain present in the
plank and the closer it runs, the more
soft and punky wood is present, and
the less durable the material will be for
the purpose.

When drawing the dimensions on
green, or partly seasoned, timber, a cer-
tain amount of shrinkage will occur,
hence be sure to allow for this and make
the width about I4 i'l- greater. When
working seasoned lumber, this need not
be taken into consideration.

After the outline of the ski has been
sawed out, the bottom, or running sur-
face, should be planed perfectly smooth,
with the grain running straight and true
from the point to the heel. The ski
should be worked down to the desired
dimensions before bending, and from
the top, or upper, side only, never from
the running surface. When the correct
thickness has been reached, the bend
at the point may be put in by soaking
the wood well to make it pliable. This
is most easily done by heating water in
a wash boiler, and when the water boils,
place the ski across the top and thor-
oughly soak the wood by mopping with
the boiling water, using a cloth tied to
a stick. That the bend may be gradual
and not too abrupt, do not attempt to
bend it to the desired arc at once, but
gradually work the wood and resort to
numerous hot-water treatments until a
good 6-in. bend is obtained. The arch
in the running surface is easily ob-
tained, and if bent too much, is easily
straightened out when cold. Of course,
more bend must be given the skis than
the actual curve will be when finished,
since the w^ood will straighten out
somewhat as it dries. Some kind of a
form will come in handy, and this inay
be furnished by making a rough frame
and placing a short length of log of the

Fio.6
The Wood is Selected by the Way in Which the
Growth of the Grain Runs

proper diameter at the bends, or the tips
may be lashed, or cleated, to the floor
of the workbench. A very easy method
is shown in Fig. 7.

After the bends are made, the hole
for the foot binding should be put in.
and if the wood has been left plenty
long, the skis may be trimmed off at the
heel so that they
will balance nice-
ly when lifted by
the toe straps.
This is the best
way, for while a
few skiers prefer
to make the heel
light and weight
it with lead,
there is no ad-
vantage in doing
so.

The groove in
the exact center
of the running
surface should
now be cut in,
which is made
about % in. deep,
and % to 1/2 in. in
width. A groov-
ing plane is most
convenient, but a
small gouge, if
carefully used,
will do as well.
The groove
should run from
the heel to the
beginning of the
bend.

To finish the
ski, sandpaper
top and bottom
smooth, and rub
down with lin-
seed oil to which
a little paraffin, or beeswax, has been
added. The running surface of the ski
should be finished with oil and waxed,
and it is an advantage that the entire
ski be finished in the same manner, as
less snow will stick to the tops than
if varnish is used. The experienced
skier is more concerned about the run-
ning qualities of his skis than the fin-
ish, but the novice is more likely to be
attracted by fancy implements. When
varnished tops are wanted, a glossy
and durable surface is obtained by

ris.7

brushing on a couple of coats of good
spar varnish.

A tube, or cake, of wax should be
carried by every skier, for the running
surface must have numerous coatings
that the snow may not stick to the
wood. Both paraffin and beeswax are
suitable, and the skier may use one of
the several good preparations put up
in tubes and in cakes, or melt up his
own, as preferred. A good cake, or hard,
wax is made by melting up 10 oz. of
beeswax with 5 oz. of rosin. When

melted, stir in 1 oz. of turpentine and
pour in small boxes to form cakes of
convenient size.

The running surfaces are often
waxed by rubbing the wax on and then
going over the surfaces with a hot flat-
iron. This is a good method, provid-
ing only a sufficient quantity of wax
has been applied. A too liberal appli-
cation of wax cannot be called a dis-
advantage when running downhill, but
it will make the runners so slippery
that climbing uphill is difficult.

Filling Toy Rubber Balloons with
Hydrogen

Any boy can easily convert a toy
rubber balloon into a real flier by

Apparatus for Filling Toy Rubber Balloons with

Hydrogen Gas to Make Them Fly to

a Great Height

constructing the simple device shown
in the illustration for filling it with hy-
drogen. Procure a clay pipe and break
off the stem near the bowl. Bore a
hole in a cork, or preferably a rubber
stopper, selected to fit some bottle and
insert the smaller end of the pipestem
in the hole. As the stem tapers, if the
hole has been made for the smaller
end, a tight fit is assured by simply
pressing the stem well into the cork.
Tie the open end of the stem on the
balloon tightly over the larger end of
the pipestem, and have ready a thread

to tie the stem of the balloon when it
is filled.

Procure from a local drug store 1 oz.
of hydrochloric acid. Place some nails,
or better still, a few strips of zinc, in
the bottle and cover them with a little
water, then pour a small quantity of
the hydrochloric acid into the bottle
and assemble as shown in the illus-
tration. In a few minutes hydrogen
gas will be given off, and if the joints
are tight, the balloon will begin to fill.
After it has expanded as much as it will
stand without breaking, tie the end
with the thread, and cut off any parts
of the mouthpiece that may weigh it
down. If sufficient gas has been
passed into the balloon it will rise to
the ceiling. Balloons filled in this man-
ner ha\e risen to a height of several
hundred feet.

Caution : Do not allow the hydro-
chloric acid to come in contact with the
skin or clothing, as it may cause fright-
ful burns. Do not under any circum-
stance fill the balloon near a flame or
allow fire to come near the bottle. —
Contributed by Ralph C. Jenkins, Man-
chester, Vt.

How to Polish Instrument Bases

There seems to be a feeling among
mechanical and electrical experiment-
ers that there is something mysterious
about the process of wood finishing,
and often one may see a really fine piece
of apparatus spoiled by mounting it
on a shellacked baseboard. I have
found that it is a very simple matter

to produce almost a piano finish on all
woods, even those as soft as poplar, in
the following manner. Quick-drying
wood dyes should be avoided. Simply
rub down a piece of ordinary water-
color cake into some plain water and
apply freely with a rag, rubbing it in
well. Any color may be obtained in
this way, but if this is not convenient,
use an oil stain made quite thin with
turpentine. Next apply a thin coat of
shellac, which should be sandpapered
when it is dry. A coat of ordinary var-
nish is then applied, and when this is
thoroughly dried, rub lightly with fine
steel wool. One coat of varnish may
be sufficient, although several coats
will produce a richer finish. Rub the
last coats down well with an oily rag
dipped in some abrasive material, such
as tooth powder or metal polish, and
finish with a simple oil rub. A beau-
tiful, soft, transparent efifect may be
obtained in this way on very ordinary
woods. Any open-grained woods, such
as oak, must be filled with a paste filler
after staining.^ — Contributed by John
D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.

Locating Droplight in the Dark

A simple device for locating a drop-
light can be had by putting a nail or

The Cord Fastened to the Door Casing is Easily
Located and Followed to the Lamp

screw eye into the side of the door
casing, high enough to clear persons
passing under it, but within easy reach
of an uplifted hand, and running a cord
from it to the light. It is not difficult
to locate the cord attached to the casing
and to follow it to the light. — Con-
tributed by H. S. Craig, Rushford,
Minnesota.

Clf kerosene oil is used when drilling,
reaming, or turning malleable iron, it
will make the work much smoother.

How to Make an Experimental Lead
Screw

Often in experimental work a long,
narrow, parallel screw is desired for
regulating, or moving, some part of

A Copper Wire Wrapped around and Soldered to a
Straight Rod for a Lead Screw

the apparatus in a straight line. A
simple way of making such a screw is
to tin thoroughly a small straight rod
of the required length and diameter.
After wiping of¥ all the surplus solder
while it is yet hot, wrap it with a suf-
ficient length of bright copper wire
and fasten the ends. This wire is then
securely soldered in place by running
the solder on while holding the screw
over a blue gas flame. To make the
solder run freely, brush frequently
during the heating with a small muci-
lage brush dipped into the soldering
acid. An even pitch can be secured by
winding on two wires side by side at
the same time, the second one being
unwound before soldering.

Self-Setting Rat Trap

A suburbanite successfully trapped
a bunch of rats by stretching a piece
of stout elastic paper on the top of an
open barrel. Spreading food on this
paper he allowed it to remain until the
suspicions of the rats were allayed,
then he cut two right-angled slashes in
the paper with a razor. Next morning

The Paper Stretched over the Barrel Top was Cut
after Feeding the Rats on It for Some Time

he found seven of the pests in the
barrel.

Smoker's Cabinet or Cellarette

This design, when completed, takes
up a wall space 20 in. wide by 31 in.

for the cabinet is made from %-in. ma-
terial, squared up to fit between the
sides, and be flush with their top edges
while resting on the bottom crosspiece.

The Smoker's Cabinet Makes an Attractive Addition to the Furniture of a Den, and should be Made Up
and Finished to Match Other Pieces of the Room

high, and extends out 14 in. The ma-
terial necessary for it is as follows :

2 sides, U by 14 by 31 in.

1 back, U by 14 by 28 ;« in.

1 bottom, K hy 14 by 20 in.

1 top, % by 1014 by 18Ji in.

i bottom shelf, ti by 14 by 14 in.

1 top shelf, % by lO'A by 14 in.

Door:

2 stiles, H by 2 by 14K' in.

2 rails, ^ by 2 by 10 in. (not including tenons, if

such are desired).
1 panel, H by 10>i by 11 M in.
Upper drawer ;
1 front, J^ by 4 by 14 in.

1 back. H hy 3'4 bv IZVi in.

2 sides, ■.< by 4 by 9?/8 in.

1 bottom, Js hy 9H by 13;/ in.
Lower drawer :
1 front, J^ by 5 by 14 in.

1 back, ^ by 4J4 by 13 VJ in.

2 sides, j5 by 5 by V2li in.

1 bottom, fi by 12j^ by IZVi in.
1 piece for keys, ^ by 2J4 by Q% in.

1 pair hinges.

2 drawer pulls. _
Screws and nails.

In constructing the cabinet, the outer
frame should first be made. The sides
can be laid out and cut to the desired
design. The top and bottom cross-
pieces should then be squared up, and
the tenons cut as shown, the bottom
tenons extending farther, to balance the
design. The top is set in % in. from the
back edge. Holes should be marked
ind cut for the %-in. keys, after which
the four parts may be assembled, and
suitable keys driven in place. The back

It can be fastened in place with nails.
The top and bottom pieces of the cab-
inet proper can then be made, and se-
cured in place with round-head screws,
after which the door may be made and
fitted. The stiles and rails of the door
should be rabbeted for a %-in. square
groove, to hold the panel in place. The
frame can be made sufficiently strong,
if properly glued and held together
with dowel pins passing through the
stiles into the rails. If it is desired to
fasten the frame with tenons, an extra
amount must be added to the length of
the rails given in the stock list. The
panel should not be glued in place, as
the shrinkage of the wood will cause it
to crack.

In making the drawers, the front
should be rabbeted for a groove to fit
the drawer bottom, and sidepieces can
be fitted and nailed in place. These
should be rabbeted for grooves, into
which the bottom and end pieces fit.

If the cabinet is finished in mission
style, or fumed oak, hammered copper
or brass hinges and drawer pulls will
go well with the general appearance of
the design.

~~H?unnin^umping aniXWitng'''

Part II

TJEFORE the beginner makes the at-
■'-' tempt to ski, he should see that his
complete outfit is perfectly suited to his
purpose. The shoes should be nicely ad-
justed to fit snugly between the metal
toe plates of the binding, and new
holes should be punched in the straps
wherever needed to adjust the harness
snugly and comfortably to the feet.
Many of the positions required in exe-
cuting the various turns and swings
may be practiced at home, that the
novice may get some idea of the cor-
rect position of the feet and body as-
sumed by expert skiers. For the ini-
tial practice outside, it is a good plan
to select a frosty day when the snow
is old and settled by the wind. This
will introduce the novice to the sport
under favorable conditions, while if the
first trials are made shortly after a
heavy snowfall, or upon a mild day
when the snow is thawing, only dis-
couragement will be experienced. Be-
gin with one stick — or two if timid —
and pick out an easy-sloping hill with
a gradual run to the level ground. A
few scattered trees and rocks will do
no harm, for it is a good plan to learn
how to avoid them from the beginning.

How to Turn on Skis

This and the correct manner of
standing on skis are easily mastered
if the beginner will but remember that
the weight of the body should rest
largely upon the advanced foot with-
out bending the body at the ankle too
much, or raising the heel from the ski.
This is the correct position to assume
when standing for a rest and for slid-
ing, and this as well as turning should
be practiced on the level. To make

the kick turn, simply raise the point of
the ski until the heel rests on the snow,
as shown in Fig. 1. Swing the ski
around by turning the point out and
back until the two skis are point to
heel, as shown in Fig. 2. When this,
the most difficult position of the three,
is assumed, raise the point of the other
ski as high as convenient to avoid trip-
ping, keep the heel down and swing
the ski around over the heel of the
other until both are facing in the same
direction, as shown in Fig. 3. A little
practice will make it possible for the
novice to turn quickly, and if all turns
are made with the advanced foot, when
practicing on the level, no trouble will
be experienced later on in attempting
to turn on a steep slope. The stick is
really indispensable for this practice,
and while two may be used, the single
stick will be found assistance enough
for any active person.

When skiing on level ground the
correct movement is rather more of a
slide than the motion used in walking
or skating. The body is thrown for-
ward on one ski and the slide is made
with both feet, most ot the body
weight being thrown on the advanced
ski, while the rear foot is slid forward
without stopping the forward travel,
as shown in Fig. 4. The expert skier
moves forward in long gliding steps
without raising the ski, but bending
the knees slightly to slide the ski
ahead. The feet should be kept as
close together as possible to make a
narrow track and the stick used to
lengthen the slide. At the beginning
it is a good plan to endeavor to make
a long slide with each advancement of
the foot, rather than strive to take long

Raise the Point

of the Ski

until the Heel

Rests on the

Snow

step," and which is made by ad-
vancing the foot with the legs some-
what wider apart, and the skis placed
at not quite so
acute an angle
with the hill, is
more useful when
climbing the ordi-
nary steep grade
and is far less
laborious. If the
skier knows how
to handle his im-

steps. The speed
of level run-
ning depends, of
course, upon the

condition of the snow. On hard, well-
packed snow, sliding is easiest and
greater speed obtained, while in deep
and soft snow less speed is the rule.
When skiing on the hard snow of a
road, four miles an hour is the aver-
age speed, and for average level run-
ning, the skier will cover about the
same distance as when walking along
a good path.

When traveling uphill, the regular
sliding gait will suffice if the slope is
gradual, but when a steep grade is en-
countered and the ski slips backward,
the skier stands quite erect, raises the
point of his ski about 3 in., and slaps
it down smartly, without pulling it
backward or making any attempt to
push his body fonvard with the stick.
This slap of the ski makes the smooth
surface of the runner adhere better
than when the runner is slid forward
in the usual manner. If the hill is
very steep, the skier will naturally
place his skis at right angles rather
than permit the slipping backward.
This is known as "side-stepping," and
is shown in Fig. 5. In doing this, the
heel of the ski must be raised clear of
the snow and the upper foot lifted up-
hill, then the lower foot brought up to
the last step of the upper foot, hence it
is extremely tiring for other than a
short distance.

A variation of this movement, which
is known to skiers as the "half side

The Body is
Thrown Forward

on One Ski and
the Slide is Made

with Both Feet

The Skier Naturally Places His Skis

at Right Angles Rather than Permit

the Slipping Backward

plements, side-stepping may be done
backward when necessary.

The "herringbone" is another step
which is much

used when the
skier wishes to
travel up a short
and steep incHne.
This step is made
b}^ stretching the
legs rather wide
apart and point-
ing the toes out,

The Skier Runs Straight
Downhill on One Ski and
Uses the Other as a Brake

Fio.9

When Running
Downhill One Ski
should Be in Advance of
the Other a Few Inches

The Herringbone

is Much Used

When the Skier

Wishes to Travel

up a Short and

Steep Incline

fie. 6

On Hard Snow as shown in Fig. 6,
Skis'nfat°irused at a decided angle,
to Check the Speed go that the knees are
^'°-^ bent inward and the
inside edges of the skis cut into the
snow. A variation of this is the "half
herringbone," the skis being turned
out at a less acute angle. These spe-
cial steps for special purposes are all
useful now and then in mountain
climbing, but when a long distance is
to be covered, the skier will conserve
his energy by mounting the hill in a
zigzag fashion rather than attempting
to climb straight up. The track of the
skier will then resemble the course of
a boat tacking through a narrow inlet
against a head of wind, and while
more ground is covered than when
going straight up the steepest part of
the hill, progress is faster and much,
hard work is avoided.

When running straight downhill,
one ski should be in advance of the
other a few inches, and the skis must
be held quite close together so that
they touch, or nearly so, as shown in
Fig. 7. To make a narrow track, most
expert skiers hold the knees together
with the back knee slightly bent. How-
ever, the body should be perfectly and
easily balanced. This is done, more
or less, intuitively, by beginning the
run with the body thrown on the ad-
vanced foot, and when full speed is at-
tained the weight automatically shifts
to the rear foot. The novice will find
it difficult at first to keep the skis to-
gether, there being an almost uncon-
trollable desire to separate them to

gain a better balance. A good track
will come with a little practice, but if
the skis are too short, or made without
a groove, even an expert would be

The Christiania Swing is Accomplished
i by Pressing with Both Heels ai

f] the Same Time While the Stick

Digs Well into the Snow Above

FjiLia

compelled to keep his feet a trifle
apart and make a double track in or-
der to keep from falling.

When making the start preparatory
for coasting downhill, the novice may,
if the slope is moderately steep, face in
the desired direction and assume the
proper position by supporting himself
with the stick. On most very steep
slopes, where the best coasting is to be
had, this is quite out of the question,
and the skier must step around quickly
by moving the lower ski first. This
will be somewhat difficult to do until
the novice gains more confidence,
which will quickly come after a little
practice, and it is a good plan to prac-
tice starting from the slope without
the aid of the stick to anchor the body.
Owing to the fact that the skis do not
reach much speed at the start of the
coast, even the slow novice will have
plenty of time to make the turn and
face in the right direction before much

speed is attained. A comparatively
crouching position, secured by bending
the knees and the body at the waist,
will much lessen the liability of a fall
forward. This position enables the
skier to control the balance of his body
with more certainty, and especially
when coasting on a hill where patches
of ice, or crusted snow, and soft spots
of unpacked snow are encountered, a
condition usually found wherever ski-
ing is enjoyed. When coasting, the
stick, or sticks, should be firmly
grasped at the upper end with the
looped thong, or strap, over the wrist,
and .the end dragging behind. Bal-
ancing is done entirely at the waist,
and for straightaway running, the
weight of the body will rest largely
upon the rear ski. The long running
surface of the ski will carry the skier
over many bumps and hollows without
disturbing the balance of the body or
causing a fall, providing the novice
does not lose his nerve. It is necessary
to practice on rough and uneven
ground if the skier desires ever to at-
tain much expertness, and plenty of
falls must be expected, but not dreaded
by the beginner. A fall on skis is by
no means fraught with danger, and one
may fall with impunity providing all
muscles are relaxed. Many beginners
find falling the easiest manner of
stopping, but this should not be neces-
sary, providing the hints given are
well understood and practiced. How-
ever, the novice should have no fear of
falling if he wants to become proficient
on skis, and to offset any timidity,
which so verj' often causes the novice
to lean backward and fall in this direc-
tion, it is a good plan to lean well for-
ward to check this natural tendency.
Getting up after a fall is easily enough
managed if the head is pointing up the
slope, but when the position is reversed
much floundering is necessitated. It
would seem that this would be obvious
to all, yet the majority of beginners
often forget it altogether.

Braking with the stick is only efifect-
ive when the body is properly bal-
anced, and the stick is kept well for-
ward and as nearly vertical as possible

Straddling the stick, sitting upon it, or
leaning backward on it held at an
angle, are slovenly methods which
every novice should avoid.

The '"snowplow" is most largely
used by all good skiers for braking,
stopping, and turning. This is accom-
plished by stretching the legs wide
apart and at the same time turning the
toes in as much as possible, thus pre-
senting the side of the ski to the snow
and retarding the speed. Aside from
straddling the legs wide apart, the
novice will have no trouble in learning
this useful knack. For the first prac-
tice, pick out a fairly steep hill road,
or a hillside where the snow is old and
not soft. Begin the run as for coast-
ing, and when good speed has been
attained, spread the legs wide apart,
turn the toes in and endeavor to con-
trol the speed with the skis rather than
depend upon the stick. On hard snow
the edges of the ski may be used to
check the speed, but on ordinary soft
and well-packed snow, the runner may
be kept quite flat. This is well shown
in Fig. 8.

The knack of "stemming" is a vari-
ation of the snowplow, inasmuch as
the skier runs straight downhill on one
ski, and turns the heel of the other ski
outward and downward and uses it as
a brake, as in Fig. 9. This is a very
useful movement, and is largely used
when coasting down steep slopes, and
when one has learned the knack of it,
stemming will serve for braking and
steering, and is useful for stopping by
turning the skiing course uphill. To
learn it, select a steep hillside, coast
down at an angle, with the feet a trifle
apart, and endeavor to retard the speed
with the stick and turn the heel of the
lower ski outward. This makes the
turn and the skier faces uphill and
comes to a stop. By turning the heel
of the lower ski outward and the heel
of the upper ski inward, the skis will
travel downhill with a sort of snow-
plow movement. When practicing
these movements, the beginner should
endeavor to use the stick as little as
possible and learn to depend upon the
skis for controlling the speed.

The "side slip" is useful on steep
slopes, and is done by turning the skis
so that the runners are at a
decided angle to the course
traveled. This affords the
maximum braking by the
skis alone, and is especially
effective when combined
with the braking done with
the stick. Side-slipping may,

"■"■^tiiiiil^is^ii^

of course, be done while the skier is
traveling forward, by keeping the skis
close together so that the edges almost
touch. While this movement checks
the speed in much the same manner as
stemming, side-slipping is less tire-
some, since the weight of the body
gives the required braking efifect,while,
in stemming, the muscles are called
upon to keep the heel pressing out-
ward.

Closely akin to side-slipping is the
Christiania swing with, the stick, which
is accomplished by pressing with
both heels at the same time, while
the stick digs well into the snow above.
This variation of the side slip is easily
done, and the skier is turned sharply

uphill to come to a quick stop. When
a sharp hill is met with, that is con-
sidered a bit too steep to take straight,

this swing with

the stick may be

to the right, keep the skis close to-
gether, the right a trifle in advance,
with the weight of the body equally
on both feet and with knees slightly
bent. Now throw the weight more
forward and upon

made by taking a zigzag course
down grade, steering clear of any
obstacles by snowplowing, stemming,
or side-slipping; and turning the cor-
ners, or "tacking," by making use of
the Christiania swing and the stick, as
shown in Fig. 10.

The '•S"-turn may likewise be used
for turning corners, without the neces-
sity for stopping to make the ordinary
kick turn. A good way to learn this
useful movement is to run straight
downhill in a snowplow position, re-
duce the speed to a comfortable walk-
ing pace with the stick, and stem with
the ski. If this is done with the right
ski, the "S"-turn is made by throwing
practically the whole weight of the
body on the right ski, at the heel, and
pressing it outward while the stick is
carried ahead and below the skier. If
the heels are kept well apart, and the
toes close together, the skier will have
no trouble about swinging around in
a curve and be off on the other tack.
About the only difficulty in making the
"S"-turn is the position of the body,
which must be thrown somewhat out
and away from the hill. To the novice
this at first seems to invite a fall, but a
few trials will soon prove that the
weight of the body must be thrown on
the foot which circles on the outside
of the cur\'e, hence the apparently un-
natural position of the body is essential
for a good turn. By bringing the stick
well forward and downhill, the skier
uses his staff as a pivot upon which
the turn is made.

The Christiania swing, made with-
out the stick, is a favorite with expert
ski runners when running on rough
and steep ground and is a good way
of stopping. The swing may be made
both to the right and left. To make it

the

toes,

ile

the

heels

are

car-

ried

forward

and

outward

the

"""-,^

^r"

^""■^^^

-*y

To Make the Jump the
Skier Assumes the Easy
Position Required for FiG-12

Coasting Downhill

left. The body must lean to the right
—the direction in which the swing is
made — and twisted somewhat at the
waist ; and the sharper the turn, the
more the body must lean sideways to
keep the balance. The swing to the
left is made in the same fashion, only
the left ski should be a trifle advanced
and the body thrown to the left.

The Telemark swing is more difficult
to master than the Christiania swing,
because it is done on one foot, or ski,
instead of using both, and as it is less
powerful than the latter, it is of far less
use for stopping. To make the Tele-
mark swing to the right, assume the
regular position for downhill coasting,
and, advancing the left foot, turn the
ski so that it rests on its edge as when
making the snowplow, throw the body
to the right and lean in toward the
slope to keep the balance. To make the
swing to the left, advance the right
foot, turn the body to the left and lean
as before. This is shown in Fig. 11.
The Telemark turn is, in fact, made in
the same manner as stemming, and the
sharpness of the swing rests altogether
upon the quickness with which the
heel is thrown outward and the body
turned in the di.ection the skier de-
sires to swing. The swing is made
upon one ski, and the key to the whole
swing is the knack of raising the heel
of the other foot off its ski until it rests
upon the toes. That this is hard to do
goes with the telling, and the novice
should first acquire the knack of bal-

ancing by running straight downhill
with the weight thrown on one foot.
When this can be done, and not before
then, the skier is ready to practice the
turn. The Telemark swing, like all
other turns, is easily acquired at slow
and moderate speeds, and becomes
more and more difficult to make as the
speed is increased and the turn is made
more sharply and quickly.

Jumping on skis is one of the most
exhilarating winter sports, and it is a
pity that it is not more popular wher-
ever a medium-heavy fall of snow oc-
curs. While touring on skis across a
hilly country, there will be many nat-
ural jumps to encounter, for drifts,
stumps, rocks, and other rises in the
ground, when well covered and padded
with snow, make good jumping-off
places. While but a few skiers may
have attempted such high leaps as the
famous Holmenkollen, Fiskertorpet, or
Foldberg, all who have done much ski
running have done a little jumping,
since, when running downhill, an un-
expected dip is often encountered, and
a rise in the ground causes the skier to
leave the ground for a short distance
and alight several feet below. Doubt-
less the skier has enjoyed the flying-
like sensation of this brief moment,
and very likely he has climbed the hill
to repeat the jump. Moreover, this
has very likely demonstrated that the
distance of the jump depends upon
the height of the dip, the speed of the
skier passing over it, and likewise upon
the spring of the body on the take-ofif.
In making a jump of any height, the
take-off may be level, pointing up or
even downhill, and constructed with
framework extending out from the
hillside, or consist merely of a large
boulder, or a pile of logs, well padded
with snow. The height of the slope
chosen will, of course, regulate the dis-
tance of the jump, and the place where
the jumper alights should be fairly
steep, since, if the skier lands upon a
level place great difficulty will be ex-
perienced in keeping the balance.
Therefore the usual jumping hill, where
jumping competitions are held, is pro-
vided with a 30°, or steeper, landing

place, and this merges gradually into
the outrun, or slope, connecting the
hill with the level ground below.

For the safety of the skier, the snow
should be firm but not icy or hard,
and this is easily done by packing the

rro.l3
Each Member of the Party should be Provided with
a Ruck Sack of Good Capacity

snow down well by means of the skis.
A good, thick padding of snow is of
course essential, and a thickness of 2 ft.
is really needed at the landing place
and at the take-off. In our more north-
erly sections, plenty of snow usually
falls, but wherever a few sportsmen get
together, it is an easy matter to shovel
sufficient snow to prepare a good and
safe jumping hill.

To gain confidence and acquire some
useful experience in jumping, the
novice should practice leaping from a
2-ft. rise and gradually increase the
height of the take-off by piling more
snow upon it to increase its height.
One or two packing cases firmly placed
upon a smooth, steep hillside, and well
padded with 2 ft. of well-trodden snow,
will make a nice take-off. For the be-
ginning the take-off may point slightly
downhill or be fashioned level, and as
the skier becomes more proficient,
snow may be added to the edge so that
the take-off will send the jumper well
up into the air.

The knack of jumping is nothing
more than balancing the body upon
alighting, and the steeper the landing
place the easier it is to keep the bal-
ance. To make the jump in good form,
the skier assumes the easy position re-
quired for coasting downhill, as shown
in Fig. 13. When within a dozen yards
of the take-off the body is lowered until
the skier is in a crouching position with
the arms extending back as in the act
of jumping. Arriving within a couple

of yards of the dip the body and arms
are thrown forward, which transfers
the weight of the body upon the toes,
and the body is straiglitened up and
the arms are raised not unlike the
wings of a bird, to keep the perfect bal-
ance of the body. The straightening
up of the body, known to skiers as "the
sats," is the leap proper and must be
timed so that the body assumes an
erect position when the jumper is not
less than 13 ft. from the edge of the
take-off. The beginner will invariably
jump too late, but after a little practice,
and profiting by numerous mistakes,
the take-ofif will be timed correctly.
Alighting after a jump is best done by
advancing one ski a trifle to keep the
balance, and bending the knees a bit
to lessen the impact. The jumper ends

with the Telemark or Christiania
swing.

When taking tours of anj;- length on
skis, each member of the party should
be provided with a ruck sack of good
capacity. That of the expanding type,
made with two outside pockets, and
with gores at the sides, is a good, sen-
sible pack. It should be made of
8-oz. waterproof kbfiki and fitted with
shoulder straps of good width, to pre-
vent chafing the shoulders. Leather
ruck sacks are sometimes used, but are
heavier in weight and more expensive,
but no better. One member of the
party should carry some kind of repair-
ing outfit, consisting of an awl, a length
of leather thong, a few spare straps,
and a stout cord, or string. These
sacks are shown in Fig. 13.

Knife, Fork, and Spoon Holder

The holder is ijiade of a piece of
sheet copper of sufficient thickness to
support the number of pieces of cut-

The Holder Keeps the Cutlery in a Position for Easy
Selection and Grasping

lery used. The piece is notched to ad-
mit the different pieces, and its back
edge is bent at right angles to provide
means of fastening it to a support, a
wall or the back of the kitchen cabinet.
It will save space, as well as time, since
it is much easier to grasp one of the
articles when wanted than if they are
kept in a drawer. — Contributed by L.
E. Turner, New Yoik City.

Making Round Rods for Fish Poles

In looking forward to the enjoyment
that may be had in the spring, it is well
to prepare and o^•erhaul the fishing ap-
paratus or the shooting equipment. In
doing so, it may be necessary to make
a joint for the fish rod or perhaps a rod
for the gun. These can be easily cut if
they are sized and run through holes
made in a piece of thin metal as fol-
lows : Make several holes of the desired
sizes in a steel plate, and ream them
out with a rather dull taper reamer, so
as to leave a bur on one side. This bur
should be filed down almost level with
the surface of the metal, leaving the
edges flat and sharp. If a rod of wood
from which the article is to be made is
put in a hole and drawn through from
the opposite side to the bur, a nice
round rod will result. As the rod be-
comes smaller, use a smaller hole until
the required diameter is obtained. A
saw plate that is not too thin is about
the proper thing to use for the steel
plate. It will be necessary to draw the
temper to make the holes, but it is not
necessary to retemper it after the holes
are made.

C Celery keeps well in a small box of

dry sand.

A Ski Sled

By GEORGE J. EGELBERG

npHE sled is built low and wide so
that it will not tip easily. The
skis, or runners, are cut 10 ft. long and
6 in. wide, from 1-in. ash boards that
are straight-grained. At the points
where the curve is to be formed, plane
ofif about 1/4 i"- on the upper side, but
do not plane off any at the very tip
end. This will allow the skis to be
more easily bent. If it is not handy to
steam the skis, put them in boiling
water, and be sure that at least l^/o ft.
of the points are covered. Provide a
cover for the vessel, so that only very
little steam may escape. Let them boil
for at least one hour. A good method
of bending the points is shown. When
the skis are taken from the water, put
them as quickly as possible in the bend-
ing blocks, side by side, and bend them
with a slow, even pressure. Weight
the extending ends and leave the skis
in the blocks 8 or 10 hours to dry.
Sharpen the points after they are bent.
The sled will run easier if the skis
have a slight rocker curve. To make
this curve, have the center block 6 in.
while the two end blocks are 5I/2 in.
high. A i/4-in- flat-head bolt is run
through the ski, the block, and the

cross strip. The holes are countersunk
in the surface for the heads of the
bolts. The top is made of three 6-in.
boards, fastened to the crosspieces. It
is a good plan to brace the tips of the
skis with a 2-in. strip.

Clocks for the Craftsman

Three designs of clocks are shown,
which can be easily made in oak, or
other wood, that will match other fur-
niture. The sizes of the pieces required
are given by the dimensions in the
drawings.

The clock is a matter of choice.
Prices in most stores range from 75
cents up and the works are of the ordi-
nary alarm-clock variety. After select-
ing the clock the small legs as well as

The Runners are

Shaped Like a Ski and

are Joined Together

with Knees for the

Top Board

the back plate are removed. The hole The finish may be a wax or gloss, as
cut in the wood for the clock must be a desired, and directions for applying it

; [ -KM

i— 1

:■ 1

' --■■-

^"'""^- i ^ -J

1 —

,lh-

An Ordinary Alarm Clock Mounted in a Wood Base Made in Elaborate Desii
Timepiece of Higli Value; yet Inexpensive to Make

rns to Resemble a

snug fit, and after placing it in position,
the back plate is replaced.

will be found on the can containing
the material.

A Compact Galvanometer

A small portable galvanometer is one
of the most useful instruments to the
electrical experimenter. There are con-
tinually arising instances where it is
necessary to test through and identify
certain wires, for which purpose a small
galvanometer and a dry cell are quite
sufficient. For comparing the resist-
ances by the well-known XVheatstone-
bridge method, a galvanometer_ is._ of
course, indispensable. If the winding
is made suitable, or by placing a shunt
across the terminals to reduce the de-
flection, a small galvanometer will
roughly indicate the current passing
andthus enable one to compare his dry
cells and eliminate the weak ones.
Rough voltage comparisons may also
be made by placing a resistance in se-
ries with the galvanometer.

For constructing this instrument, a

good pocket compass, of about 3-in.
diameter, must be procured. Prepare a
neat little box with the four edges accu-
rately beveled ofif. On the under side
of this, carefully cut a channel, about
y.2 in. wide and Si/o in. long, to a depth
that will bring the bottom of the slot
within % in. of the top of the base
block. Place two binding posts on the
base, as indicated, and secure the com-
pass in place with cement, or by two
very small nails put through the bot-
tom. If the glass cannot be removed,
it will be necessary to solder the nail
heads to the bottom of the compass
box, after having carefully removed the
lacquer.

The correct wiring will depend on
the strength of the current handled. It
is, however, very easy to get an idea of
what the deflection will be under cer-
tain conditions by merely making a
preliminary trial, after winding a few

turns of any magnet or bell wire at
hand around a small piece of wood, and
slipping the coil so formed into the slot
on the under side of the base block.
The winding ma}- be from two or three
turns of heavy wire up to several hun-
dred turns of fine magnet wire, but
after one or two trials, the maker will
have no trouble in determining his par-
ticular requirements.

The final coil should be wound
lengthwise on a wood core, and the
whole packed neatly into the slot.
Connect up the ends to the binding
posts, and then glue in a thin piece to
hold the coil in place.

By drilling a small horizontal hole
through the base, as indicated by the
two dotted lines in the top view of the
working drawings, and inserting a
small bar magnet, i s in. in diameter, or
less, the instrument may be rendered
independent of the earth's magnetism
and used without reference to the north
point. Such a controlling magnet re-

Galvanometer Made of a Compass Set on a Wood
Base, with Coil and Wire Connections

duces the time required to bring the
needle to rest after it has been violently
deflected.

CWoodwork about a house, when
primed with white lead made quite thin
in raw linseed oil, will never blister un-
less moisture gets back of it. Yellow-
ocher priming will cause blistering at
any time up to 20 years.

A Perpetual Calendar

It is only necessary to set this calen-
dar the first of each month, by sliding

It Is Only Necessary to Change the Sliding Pieces
to Set the Calendar for Each Month

the insertions up or down, to get the
proper month or week. The calendar,
as it is shown, is set for January, 1916.
Saturday is the first day and Friday the
seventh, and so on. It is not confusing
and can be read either b}^ the day or
date. If the day is known it will show
the date, and if the date is known it
will show the day. The illustration
clearly shows the parts, which can be
cut from heavy paper or cardboard.

Heater for the Experimenter

A convenient small heater for heat-
ing liquids in experimental work, and
even in making a hot drink where there
is no gas, can be readily made from
an ordinary oil lamp and a small round
can, having a crimped-on head or bot-
tom. The can should be of such di-
ameter that the prongs of the lamp
burner will hold it firmly in place. A
hole should be made in the bottom of
the can. It is then placed, upside
down, on the lamp burner. If the top
comes too far from the flame, cut oflf a
strip around the edge. — Contributed by
Clarence S. H. Anderson, Worcester,
Massachusetts.

A Camp Chair Constitutes the Body of the Sled
and the I^egs are Equipped with Runners

A Folding Ice Sled

On a smooth ice surface, or on hard
snow, the sled shown will run easily,
and a skater can push another with sur-
prising speed by a light push on the
shoulders while the rider rests his feet
on the front of the runners. The sled
is light, and it can be folded up and car-
ried under the arm. It is also handy for
putting on the skates, or for use in a
crowded car.

Any camp stool will do for the main
part of the sled. Holes are bored in the
ends of the legs to receive the lugs on
the runners snugly. If the builder is
not equipped with a forge, a blacksmith
will make the runners cheaply. The
sliding surfaces of the runners are
smoothed with a file. — Contributed by
Thomas Lappin, Portland, Ore.

Cleaning Tinware with Milk

Some housewives advise a system of
dry-cleaning for tinware for the reason
that it insures a surface free from rust
which is less liable to burn. Where
washing is preferred, however, a little
milk added to the water proves more
satisfactory than either soap or soda,
its peculiarly solvent effect upon
grease obviating all necessity for hard
scouring, which latter will wear the tin
coating and gradually cause the article
to become useless for holding food and
more apt to rust into holes. — Con-
tributed by J. E. Pouliot, Ottawa, Can.

Proper Way to Wrap Papers for
Mailing

In using a homemade paper wrapper
for mailing purposes cut a triangular
section from each end of it before ap-
plying the paste or mucilage. This
prevents the adhesive from oozing out

The Clipped

Corners Prevent

the Adhesive from

Coming inContact

with the Paper

Inclosed

CA column of water 27.6 in. will have
a pressure of 1 lb. per square inch.

at the edges and sticking to the paper
it incloses. This also permits the easy
withdrawal of the paper.

Groove Cutter for Wood

Having occasion to cut some grooves
in a board and not being properly-
equipped for such work, I made the
tool shown in the sketch. Although
rather crude in appearance it will do
good work if properly made. It con-
sists of a handle, A, shaped to afford
a comfortable grip for the hand, and a
cutter, B, made of a short piece of hack-
saw blade, clamped along the left side
of the handle by the strip C, which is
held with screws. A pin, D, driven
into the handle and allowed to project
about YiQ in., prevents the blade from
sliding back under the clamp. For
guiding the blade, the arrangement F
is employed. An extension, E, is nailed
on the right side of the handle, and
holes made near each end for two
screws having round heads, such as
may be obtained from discarded dry
batteries. These screws are for secur-
ing the sliding stop F, which is a flat
piece of hardwood with slots cut near
the end for screws to pass through to
provide for adjustment.

In use, the guide F is adjusted until
it is the desired distance from the cut-
ter and then secured by the screws.
The tool is handled like a plane, care
being taken not to bear down too hard,

Two Slots are Made with the Cutter, and the Stock
between Them Removed with a Chisel

as the cutter may bind and cause it to
be pulled from the clamp. In cutting a
groove, two slots are cut and the stock
between them removed with a chisel.

A One-Runner Sled

Just an ordinar}- barrel stave, with
a center post and a crossboard for a
seat, makes a good one-runner sled.

The Barrel Stave Has a Sufficient Curve to Make It
Pass Smoothly over Hard Snow

Select a good, smooth stave for the
runner and securely fasten the upright,
which is 1 ft. long, to it in the center.
The seat is made of a board, about l^/o
ft. long, nailed to the upper end of the
upright.

Substitute for a Gas-Stove Oven

Wishing to bake a nice loaf cake one
afternoon for dinner, and finding that
the fire in my range had gone out, I
remembered an oven shown me at one
time for use on a small gas plate, which
consisted of a cover, a bottom piece,
and a support for the pan. The thought
came to me that with all my pots and
pans I ought to be able to get some
results by the combination of two pie
tins, a cake pan. and a stew pan, and on
trial it baked as fine a cake as anyone
could wish.

A small pie tin was placed in a larger
one, as shown ; on this was placed the
cake pan filled with the cake batter,

and over the whole was placed the stew

pan, which acted as a heat retainer or
oven. A good hot flame was used at

A Combination
of Pie Tins, Cake
Pan, and Stew Pan
to Make Temporary

Gas-stove Oven

-LARGE pie: TItsI
-SMALL PIE TIN

first, and was then gradually turned
lower until the cake was finished. —
Contributed by Mrs. Anna M. B. Ro-
mig, Allentown, Pa.

Box Cover without Hinges

Two ordinary boxes may be fitted
together as one without using hinges,
if nails or screws are inserted at points
along the edges so that they will slip
into holes bored at corresponding
points in the edges of the other box.

Box Cover
Using Pins
Instead of
Hinges to
Keep It in
Place

The nail heads or screw heads should
be filed oft' or cut ofif after being placed
in position.

C.^ll metal patterns should be thor-
oughly cleaned with a stiff brush hav-
ing plenty of beeswax on it and dipped
in powdered plumbago. Brush the pat-
tern well, and it will draw easily and
make a smooth casting.

Sanitary Holder for Thread and
Dental Floss

A simple and convenient method of
protecting a spool of thread, or dental
floss, from collecting dirt and germs is
shown in the illustration. A small
glass jar, with a metal screw top, is
procured, of such a size that it will
easily accommodate the spool of thread
desired to protect, with at least % in.
clearance all around the edge of the
spool. Procure a short piece of stiff
wire, not more than ^ig i"- in diameter,
and make a frame similar in form to
the one shown. The center portion of
this frame should be just a little longer
than the spool, so that a small wood
key may be placed through the eye
formed in the wire and thus hold the
spool firmly on the frame. The out-
side portions of the frame should be
such a distance apart that they will
rest against the
sides of the jar
and of such a
length that they
will reach from
the bottom to
the top of the
jar when the lid
is screwed down
tightly. If these
dimensions are observed, the spool and
frame will remain in a fixed position in
the jar.

A small opening, just a little larger
tlian the thread, is made in the center
of the lid, through which the thread
is to pass. The edges of this opening
are smoothed off so that they will not
cut the thread when it is being drawn
out. A small cutter may be made by
forming a V-shaped opening in the lid,
through which the thread is' to pass.
The edges of the V-shaped piece are
sharpened to serve as a cutting edge.
The end of the thread will be held
under the V-shaped piece after it is cut,
thus preventing it from falling back
into the jar.

CThe word "diameter" when applied
to gears is always understood to mean
the pitch diameter.

The Sportin

&n^Ho\¥toUse!f

bij S-fillmarr itvijlor

SPORTSMEN are interested in
rifles and rifle shooting largely
from the hunting standpoint, although
target shooting is a favorite sport with
many of them. This discussion of the
sporting rifle will be concerned, there-
fore, principally with the hunting as-
pects, other forms of shooting being
considered as good methods of prac-
tice, and the development of skill in
the use of hunting weapons. The
novice, as well as the good shot, must
have a suitable weapon, and should
have at least a general knowledge of
the types of rifles available, and their
common uses. A number of represent-
ative types o'f rifles are shown in Fig.
1, and the details of the breech mech-
anisms and sights in Fig. 2. Targets
and a homemade device for backing
them are shown in Fig. 3. The full-
page illustration shows several posi-
tions in the use of the rifle ; a moving-
target arrangement, to be constructed
by the ambitious shot ; a diagram of
the trajectory of a rifle bullet, and sev-
eral diagrams of the vital shots, in
hunting common big game.

The single-shot rifle, shown at A,
Fig. 1. has been largely supplanted by
the repeater and the automatic, so far
as hunting is concerned. For use ex-
clusively in indoor shooting, a heavy
rifle of the "Schuetzen" type is best
suited. A high-grade ornamented rifle
of this type is shown in the headpiece
of this article.

The most popular type of American
rifle is the repeater of the lever-action
variety, shown at B. The lever action
embodies many good points : quickness
of fire, ease of operation, freedom
from jamming at a critical moment,
strength, and plenty of stopping power.

The mechanism of the lever-action re-
peating rifle is shown in detail at J,
Fig. 2, and that of the falling-breech-
l:)lock type of single-shot rifle, at K.
Several other types of lever-action
rifles are shown in Fig. 1.

Almost all lever-action repeaters are
of the tubular-magazine type, the
magazine extending under the barrel,
sometimes the full length — full maga-
zine; or halfway — half magazine.
Rifles of these types are shown at B
and C, and a hammerless repeater at D.

The trombone, or pump-action, re-
peating rifle, shown at E, has a mech-
anism similar to that used in the re-
peating shotgun, the sliding forearm
loading and ejecting the cartridge.
The merit of the military bolt-action
rifle lies in its great strength and
simplicity. A weapon of this type was
used by Roosevelt in Africa, and by
other big-game hunters. It is shown
at F.

The chief advantages of the auto-
matic rifle, shown at G, which is a
comparatively new weapon, are its
speed in firing and its almost noiseless
action. This rifle has a recoil-operated
action of the blow-back type. That
shown at H has a box magazine, and
the automatic action is based on the
sliding of the barrel within a steel
jacket. The rifle shown at I may be
used either as an automatic or as a
pump-action weapon.

The subject of stock and trigger ad-
justment is one to which every experi-
enced rifleman devotes considerable at-
tention. The regular stock rifle is built
to standard dimensions, and often the
stock is found a trifle short. For the
man of average reach, a IS-^^-in. stock,
with a 1%-in. drop at the comb, and

about 3 in. drop at the lieel, will be
found satisfactory.

Rifle sights are of several types, of
which there are in turn many varia-

Various Types of Rifles in Common Use: A, English
Model. Single-Shot, with Open Sights and Shotgun
Butt: B, Lever-Action Repeater, Tubular Half Maga-
zine: C, Lever-Action Repeater, Box Magazine; D,
Hammerless, Lever-Action Repeater; E. Pumo-Ac-
tion. High-Power Repeater; F. Military Bolt-Action.
Sporting Model; G. Automatic. Blow-Back Action;
H, Automatic. Box Magazine; I. Automatic. Combi-
nation Pump-Action

tions. Only the essentials of the stand-
ard types will be considered. The
regulation open sights, with which
most rifles are fitted at the factory, are
the buckhorn rear and the Rocky
IMountain front sight. For a hunting
rifle the most satisfactory sights are
a gold-bead front sight of about ^■••j-in.
diameter, as shown in Fig. 2 at L ; a
folding-leaf rear sight, shown at O, P.
and Q, and a combination rear aper-
ture sight, at M and N, mounted on
the tang of the rifle. An arm so
sighted is useful for all kinds of shoot-
ing. The combination rear sight is
used in deliberate shots at a target or
at game, and the folding-leaf sight is

better than the buckhorn for quick
snap shooting.

The sportsman who wishes to master
the use of a rifle must have a knowl-
edge of the trajectory of such weapons,
and particularly of the rifle he uses reg-
ularly. He must know, also, how to
aline the sights correctly to get satis-
factory results. The trajectory is the
path which the rifle bullet takes in
passing from the muzzle of the rifle
to its mark. The force of gravity acts
upon the bullet in flight and the result
is that the trajectory is curved, as in-
dicated in the diagram at the bottom
of the page illustration. A relatively
low trajectory is, of course, desirable
in a hunting rifle. The black-powder,
or slow-speed, cartridge has a rela-
tively high trajectory, while the high-
power smokeless cartridges have rela-
tively low trajectories.

The adjustment of the sights of a
rifle is also of much importance.
Every rifle is targeted at the factory,
but this may be done by a fair shot,
using the following method : Arrange
three boxes, so that the rifle barrel
may rest upon one, and the arms of
the marksman upon the other two.
Place a bag of sand upon the box, so
that the barrel may rest upon it, about
fi in. from the muzzle. Put the target
into place, and adjust the sights for IDO
yd. If the sights are properly lined
U]), the shots should fall quite regularly
within a 10-iii. circle. A\'ith peep, or
other target, sights, much finer results
will be obtained. In moving the sigiits
it must be remembered that to move
the rear sight to the right will bring
the shot to the right, and vice versa,
while if the front sight is moved to the
right, the arm will shoot to the left.
In making the test, first adjust the
front sight so that it is in exact aline-
nient with the center of the barrel, and
then all corrections may be made by
moving the rear sight.

The proper way to sight a rifle is to
hold the front sight just clear of the
notch in the rear sight, with the front
bead barely touching the outer ring of
the bull's-eye, at the extreme bottom.
This is shown at R, Fig. 3. It is the

ihe Ofi-Hand. Knee-Support, and Prone Positions in Shooting should be Mastered by the Sportsman.

The Diagrams Represent Several Vital Shots, the Moving Target, and

the Trajectory of a Rifle Bullet

ii)

rule of good rifle shot to "see daylight
between the sight and the bull's-eye."
In any event, do not cover up the front
sight by drawing it down into the
notch of the rear sight, so that only
the top of the bead is visible. Another
frequent error is to hold the front sight
to cover the bull's-eye.

The sportsman who wishes to be-
come a practical rifle shot should learn
how to handle the rifle in the several
useful positions, so that he may be able
to sight accurately under dift'erent con-
ditions. Several of the most widely
used positions are shown in the page
illustration. The ofi^-hand position,
with arm extended, is the most com-
monly used and best position for the
sportsman to practice, for use in the
woods. The oft'-hand, with body rest,
or elbow resting on the hip. is good for
target shooting. The "Schuetzen"
style of holding the rifle, with palm
rest, is used only in fine match
shooting.

The knee-rest position is often use-
ful for the sportsman in stalking game,
when it is desirable to expose oneself
as little as possible. A steadier aim
may be secured, especially if a strong
wind is blowing. The prone position
is much used by military riflemen, but
they are not permitted the muzzle rest,
whereas the hunter often uses it. It
is easy to learn, and more accurate
shooting may be done in this position
than in the oft'-hand or knee-rest
positions.

For indoor practice at a target, the
.22-caliber rifle is best. By fitting up
a suitable backstop, shooting may be
done safely in the cellar or attic. A
satisfactory backstop may be made by
fastening a plate of iron into a pack-
ing box, 3 ft. square, as shown in Fig.
3. The plate must be set at an angle
so that the bullets will be deflected to
the bottom of the box.

In order that the rifleman may check
up his work, it is desirable that a stand-
ard target be used. The American
standard target, shown in Fig. 3, has
been adopted by practically all rifle
clubs, and, as the majority of records
are made upon it, the sportsman should

become familiar with it. The paper
targets are inexpensive, and it is easy ■
to draw accurate homemade targets -
from the original. By the use of disks
of black and white paper — known as
gummed target pasters — one target
may be used several times.

If convenient to do so, the novice
should shoot a string of shots every
day, in the various positions. Do not
try to hurry, but shoot deliberately at
first, aiming to secure a good average,
rather than a few bull's-eye shots and
many wild ones. With reasonable
practice, it is not difficult to score eight
bull's-eyes out of ten shots, when using
the prone position. Having attained
this proficiency, the sportsman may be
regarded as a fair shot, and is ready to
take up outdoor target practice with
the high-power rifle.

For outdoor target shooting the .23-
caliber, long-rifle cartridge will give
very accurate results up to 100 yd.
The standard target has a bull's-eye
measuring 6 in. in diameter for 150 yd.
Shooting may be tried for a while at a
fixed range, then the target may be
moved to an unknown distance and
angle, and the marksman can try his
hand at estimating distance. Instead
of changing his sights at varying dis-
tances, the sportsman should learn how
to estimate the distance of the mark
and the approximate elevation of the
sights to land the Inillet within the
circle. This is valuable practice for
good shooting in the woods.

After considerable practice at the
stationary target, quick firing may be
varied by rigging up a sliding trolley
arrangement, like that shown in the
page illustration. It is easily made l>y
setting up two poles, properly braced,
one about 30 ft. tall, and the other
about 10 ft., spaced 30 ft. apart. Be-
tween the poles, about 8 ft. from the
ground, stretch a length of stiff tele-
phone wire, and make a wooden target
block W, with a metal sheave wheel,
so that it may slide freely along the
wire. On the tallest post, a little above
the wire, fasten a metal pulley, Z, and
at the top of the pole place a sash
pulley. Then attach a stout cord to

the target block, reeve it through the
two pulleys, and attach a sandbag, or
other weight, to the end of the cord.
On the shorter post, a latch, or trigger,
Y, is fastened to hold the target, which
is released by pulling a string. With
this easily constructed device, much
valuable practice may be had, for if the
pole is fairly high, the weight will
cause the target to slide as rapidly as
the average game bird travels. In
using this moving target, just as good
practice is obtained with a .23-caliber
repeater as with a high-power gun. In
fact, the high-velocity ammunition
should be used only on a regular range,
or where a suitable backstop is erected
to stop the high-power bullets. Such
a backstop may be constructed of heavy
timber, like old railroad ties, in the
form of a crib, which is filled in with
sand or earth. When a natural back-
ground, such as a mound or hill, is at
hand, this may be used with safety, but
a rocky hillside is not satisfactory, for
it is likely to deflect the bullets, and
may cause injury through stray shots.
As our antlered game, like the
moose, the Virginia deer, the caribou,
and the elk, are held in higher esteem
than other American big-game animals,
a few practical hints on where to sight,
may serve to bring better luck to the
sportsman who has yet to bring in his
first head. The shoulder shot, shown
in the rectangular sketch at S, T and
U, is taken by the experienced hunter
whenever possible, in preference to any
other. It is the object of this shot to
break the shoulder joint, and thus pre-
vent use of the forelegs. It is a vital
shot, also, because there is a good
chance of the bullet passing through
either the heart or lungs, which will
drop the game in its tracks. This is
the most effective of all shots, and as
the hunter more often draws a bead
while the game is running away, the
shoulder shot is used more than any
other. The exact spot, at which the
aim should be taken, depends upon the
distance of the animal, and its rate of
movement. If on the run and the range
is 100 yd. or more, the sight should
be taken at the point S. If less than

this distance, sight at T, and, if the
animal is standing still, take deliberate
J

Fig, 2

J, Mechanism of Lever-Action Repeating Rifle;
2, Breechblock ; 7, Cocking Lever ; 19, Firing Pin, Front ;
21, Firing Pin, Rear; 29, Guard Finger Lever; 34,
Hammer; 36. Lifter; 37, Locking Slide; 46, Main-
spring Plunger; 46, Mainspring Plunger Seat; 63,
Trigger

K, Mechanism of Falling- Breechblock, Single-Shot
Rifle; L, Gold-Bead Front Sight; M and N, Ccmbina-
tion Rear Aperture or Tang Sight, Raised and Folded;
O, P, Q, Folding-Leaf Rear Sight. Used as V-Crotched
Sight, Straight-Bar Sight, and Folded Flat to Barrel

aim at U, within the dotted inclosure.
This area represents what big-game
hunters call the vital zone, and a soft-
nose bullet, placed anywhere within
this spot, will be certain to stop the
game, often dropping it on the spot.
It is possible to
land a bullet in a
vital spot at dis-
tances up to 500
yd. with a high-
power rifle, but
it is very likely
that the game
will be wounded
only, and may
escape to die a
lingering death.
In taking long
shots at big
game on the run, the sight should be
taken well forward and a trifle higher
than the marks given, since the hunter

INDOOR OUTDOOR

FiG.3

must allow for the trajectory of his
arm and the time the bullet takes to
reach its mark.

The front shot, shown at the right,
has as its object to hit the heart or
lungs. It is a useful shot, and the sight
is taken at the cross indication on the
breast. The head shot, shown in the
circle, is a brain shot, and is used only
by the experienced hunter, when it is
difficult to land a shoulder or front
shot. As the brain is well up to the
top of the head, the best point of aim
is shown at V, midway between the
eyes and a trifle higher than their cen-
ters. This shot is most effective when
t!ie hunter stands a trifle above the
game, or shoots when the game is
charging head down. If on a level, aim
just above the eye, and if close to the
game, land the bullet just below the
eye. The ear shot, as indicated by the
cross, is taken at close quarters, and
the point to sight for is the inside of
the ear at its base.

A good rifle will give a lifetime of
service, and the sportsman should take
care of it. The best time to clean a
firearm of any kind is as soon after
shooting as possible, for the powder
residue is then fresh and moist, and is
more easily and quickly removed.
Black powder can be removed with a

wet rag, but smokeless powder not
only leaves a little powder residue, but
also a film of gummy residue on the
steel which is not apparent to the eye.
Common washing soda, dissolved in
water to make a saturated solution, is
used to remove it. Any of the ready-
prepared nitro solvents are good for
cleaning the rifle. A good way to clean
a rifle is to use strips of cotton flannel,
cut into squares of such size that they
will fit snugly, but may be easily
pushed through the barrel on the head
of the metal cleaning rod. Always
clean a rifle from the breech, if pos-
sible, by resting the muzzle on a few
folded papers on the floor. Push a
couple of dry wipers down to the floor
to remove the carbon residue. Then
saturate another square of cloth with
the nitro solvent, and carefully swab
out the barrel, turning the rod so that
it will follow the spiral rifling. Repeat
the operation two or three times : then
take a clean wiper, moistened with the
solvent, and repeat until the barrel is
well lubricated with the cleaning fluid.
The barrel should be well oiled with
any good, thick oil, or liquid vaseline.
The lock mechanism of the arm should
be kept clean and very lightly lubri-
cated with any good thin oil, and the
gunstock polished with linseed oil.

Camera for Taking Pictures from a Kite

By CHARLES I. REID

WHEN watching a kite flying at
a considerable height one fre-
(juently wonders how the landscape
appears from such a viewpomt as
would be possible from a kite. Few of
us can have the experience of a ride in
an aeroplane, but it is quite possible
to obtain a view from the kite, by proxy
as it were, through the use of a kite
camera. A kite of large dimensions
would be necessary to carry an ordi-
nary camera taking pictures of fair
size, hence it is necessary to devise one
of lighter construction, so that a kite of
moderate size may carry it to a height
of several hundred feet. Such a cam-
era is shown in the illustration attached

to a box kite. Details of construction
are shown in the smaller sketches.

A camera consists, briefly, of a light-
proof box, with a lens at one end and a
sensitive plate or film at the other.
For a kite camera, a single achromatic
lens will suit the purpose. Such a lens
is not expensive and may be taken from
a small camera. It must be obtained
before the camera is begun, since the
size of the latter is dependent upon the
focal length of the lens and the size of
the picture to be made. A camera tak-
ing pictures 2 in. square is satisfactory
for kite photography, and if it is de-
sired to enlarge the pictures, this may
be done in the usual manner.

The box of the camera is made cone-
shaped in order to reduce the weight
and air resistance. Its sides are of

The string holds the shutter closed
against the pull of the rubber band until
the fuse burns up to the string, severing

EXPOSURE
SLIT

light-weight, stiff cardboard, reinforced
at the corners to insure that no light
will enter. The back of the camera
is a tight-fitting cover of cardboard,
having the same measurements as the
picture to be taken. The lens is fitted
to an intermediate partition, as shown
in the sketch. It is necessary to de-
termine the focal length of the lens
and to set it at a distance from the in-
ner side of the cardboard back of the
camera — the film surface — so that it
will focus properly for photographing
distant objects.

The front is provided with a circu-
lar opening of a size large enough not
to obstruct the view of the lens. A
shutter made of thin pressboard is fit-
ted over the opening, as shown in the
sketch at the right. A slit is cut in the
shutter through which light is admit-
ted in making the exposure as the shut-
ter is drawn back. The size and width
of the slit regulates the exposure, and
a few trials must be made to determine
the most suitable speed of exposure for
the lens used. The shutter is pivoted
at its lower end and drawn back by a
rubber band. A string, to which a time
fuse is attached, controls the releasing
of the shutter to make the exposure.

The Kite Camera Offers a Diversion in Photography,
and Has Practical and Commercial Uses as Well.
The Camera Shown Is of Light Weight, Simple Con-
struction, and Produces Film Exposures Two Inches
Square. A Sectional View of Its Construction is
Given at the Left, and the Details of the Shutter
Device at the Right

it. The fuse must be long enough to
enable the kite to attain a suitable
height before the string is burned.
When the shutter has been set, and the
fuse attached ready for lighting, the
camera may be taken into the dark
room for loading. A piece of film, cut
to the proper size, is placed carefully

into the light-proof sliding cover, as
with a film pack, the sensitive side, of
course, being placed nearest the lens.

The camera is attached to the kite
securely at the middle, as shown, so
that when the kite is in flight a view
nearly straight down will be obtained.
When all is in readiness the fuse is
lighted and the kite started on its
flight. By timing experimental flights,
the required length of fuse may be de-
termined in order to permit the kite to
attain the desired height at the time of
exposure.

The kite used for taking pictures

from the air should be large enough to
carry the kite easily. One of the box
type illustrated is satisfactory, al-
though other types may be used. A
kite camera for the amateur has great
possibilities for experimentation, but
requires care in construction and a rea-
sonable knowledge of photography. To
the person willing to master the de-
tails, kite photography offers a pleasur-
able diversion as well as practical uses
in photographing plots of ground,
groups of buildings, manufacturing
plants, and other subjects which can-
not be photographed by other methods.

2 PIE TINS

How to Make a Canteen

Two sheet-metal plates that are well
nickelplated may be joined and pro-
V i d e d with a
suitable opening,
to form a useful
canteen for the
camper or hiker.
The illustration
shows such a
convenience fit-
ted with a shoul-
der strap ready
for use.

It was made as
follows : Two good-quality pie plates
were soldered at their edges to form
a water-tight container. An opening
was cut into the edge and a screw cap,
taken from a metal-polish can, was
fitted carefully and soldered over the
opening. A wire was soldered at each
side of the screw cap, providing loops
for the snap buckles of the shoulder
straps. — J. R. Townsend, Itasca, Texas.

CUT opr

AND SOLDER
TO PIE TIN

Mixing Stick That Breaks Up Lumps

In mixing paint, or paste, it is de-
sirable that all lumps be broken up
quickly, and that the forming of lumps
be prevented as. much as possible. A
mixing stick that will aid in this proc-
ess is made as follows : Procure a stick
of wood, that will take nails without
cracking, and cut it about 1 in. square
and 13 in. long. On one side, begin-

ning y^ in. from the end, drive five 8-
penny finishing nails, 1 in. apart. On
the next side, repeat the process, be-
ginning the nails 1 in. from the end.
Place similar nails on the other two
sides, spacing them to ofifset those on
the other sides. The nails cause a
thorough mixing of the paste, or paint ;
prevent the forming of lumps of any
considerable size, and by careful stir-
ring will break up all lumps in the mix-
ture,— Edwin R. Mason, Danville, 111.

Tin Can on Rod for Picking Fruit

The best apple is usually a little be-
yond reach, as every boy knows, so I
fitted a tin can, cut as shown in tlie
sketch, to a pole
and can easily
pick the apple
that I want. The
device is useful
for picking
many varieties
of fruit, and pre-
vents damaging
it by a fall. For
picking apples or
other fruit from the upper branches of
trees, where it is almost impossible
to reach by the use of a ladder, the
tin-can fruit picker is especially handy.
The small sketch shows how the edge
of the can should be cut to afford the
best grip on the stem, making it pos-
sible to cut the twig from above or
below. — T. A. Charles, Hamilton, Ont.

The Shotgun and How to Use It

By STILLMAN TAYLOR
PART I — How a Shotgun is Made

HUNTING and fishing have always
held the most important places in
the field of sport. Primitive man was
an expert hunter and a skilled fisher-
man. He had to be in order to secure
food and skins, and while but few men
are now dependent upon this method of
getting a living, the call of the outdoor
world is still heard by millions of men
and women. This, then, may be reck-
oned the inheritance which our primi-
tive ancestors have bequeathed to
every man, and every man will find
health and recreation through it. It
would be interesting to begin this chap-
ter at the start and set down the history
of weapons, trace the evolution of the
hunting arm all the way from the bow
down to the modern hammerless shot-
gun, but as this is a practical article
on how to pick out a good gun and the
knack of using it, only modern weapons
will be discussed. While the novice
need not know the detailed process of
constructing a shotgun, he will find it
an advantage to know something of
the way in which a serviceable weapon
is manufactured, for with this knowl-
edge he is better qualified to pick out a
suitable arm for his own particular use.
The frame of a shotgun — that is, the
part to one end of which the barrels
are affixed, the stock being bolted to
the other — contains the lock mechan-
ism, and that the weapon may give the

The Side-Plate Lock Is a Development of the Old
Hammer Lock with the Striker Inside

utmost satisfaction for many years, the
lock must be of good quality, of the
requisite temper, and the bolting

mechanism — securing the barrels to
the frame — must be simple, yet strong

The Box Type of Frame
Likewise Has Its Cham-
pions and Possesses Its
Advantages

and serviceable. For the frame, a solid
drop forging is milled to make a shell
into which the working mechanism is
fitted, and two types of frames are used
in making the modern shotguns. The
side-plate lock is really a development
of the old hammer lock, with the
striker inside. This lock is preferred

The Cocking Hook Is an Ingenious Device, with
Variations Used on Different Makes of Arms

by some shooters because of its neat
and graceful lines, and some manu-
facturers use this type because it en-
ables them to make use of a lighter
frame.

The box type of frame likewise has
its champions and possesses certain
advantages. Certainly it makes a
strong and rigid frame, and for inex-
pensive weapons it would be difficult
to improve upon. While its square,
boxlike form is not graceful in line, it
enables the maker to use a spiral, or
coil, spring instead of a flat spring for
operating the locks, which is an advan-
tage. In brief, the merits of both types
may be summed up in this fashion : The
use of the box type of lock enables the
maker to turn out a better quality of

gun at a low price, but in the case of
a well-made gun, selling for a reason-
able figure, there is very little choice
between them so far as dependability

A Hammerless Gun with Roller Bearings to Over-
come the Short Leverage and Make It
Open and Close Easily

and long service are concerned. Both
are much used by manufacturers of the
finest weapons, hence the shooter may
pick out the one which best suits his
fancy.

The Cocking Mechanism of the Hammerless
The locks of the hammerless shotgun
work inside of the frame or lock, and
are cocked by an ingenious little mech-
anism operated by the movement of
the barrels when they are opened. The
Anson & Deely cocking mechanism is
one of the oldest and best of these de-
vices, aiid is still used on many Amer-
ican as well as European arms. The
levers of this mechanism are hung with
pivots in the end of the frame — one end

A Lug is Forged on the End of Each Barrel, and
When Fitted Together They are Brazed

projecting into the fore end and the
opposite end resting beneath the ham-
mer toe. As the gun is "broken,"
or opened, it presses down the for-
ward end of the cocking lever, and
the other end rises and pushes the ham-

mers into the cocked position. This is
the principle upon which all cocking
devices are constructed, and while it
works smoothly and is so simple that
it is not likely to get out of order, it
is mechanically weak, owing to the
short frame required to secure adequate
leverage. Perhaps one of the best vari-
ations of the Anson & Deely device is
one employed by an American manu-
facturer who makes use of a rod run-
ning through the frame from the fore
end to the hammer. To each end of
this rod is attached a crank, so hung
that as one crank is depressed the other
rises and pushes the hammer to the
cock position as the barrels are swung
to open the gun.

The cocking hook is an ingenious de-
vice found on American shotguns and
many variations of it are, of course, used
on the difterent makes of arms. The
Parker gun is pro^•ided with a hook,
working a slide, thus pulling the ham-
mers to cock. In the Baker, a bent arm
is pivoted to the breech to serve the
same purpose. Another example of
American ingenuity may be noted in
the lug-cocking devices used on the
Ithaca and Fox guns. This simple ar-
rangement is made by connecting the
toe of the hammer directly with the
lug, which is an integral part of the
barrel. The hammer is thus made to
act as its own lever, for as the toe por-
tion rises when the barrel is opened,
the striker falls back until it is caught
in the notch of the sear.

To guard against the possibility of
accidental discharge of the hammerless
gun, in which type of gun the hammer
must be always at full cock, a safety
trigger bolt is utilized. This bolt is
affixed in the frame in a vertical posi-
tion by pivoting it, and to the upper
part of the lever is attached a slide,
placed on top of the tang immediately
back of the top lever which opens the
barrels. As this safety slide is pushed,
the lower end of the lever is brought
close up against the triggers, blocking
them, and thus prevents them from
moving while the safety is in the "on"
position. To discharge the gun, the
slide must be pushed forward to the

"off" position, which moves the lower
end away from the triggers. This type
of safety is of the nonautomatic vari-
ety and can only block the triggers
when the slide is operated by the
shooter.

The automatic t3'pe of safety con-
sists of a block, or bar, fitted in the
frame and extending from the safety
bolt to the post of the top lever. When
the top lever is pushed to one side to
open the barrels, this block, or bar,
pushes the safety bolt over the trig-
gers, automatically blocking them and
preventing accidental discharge. The

The Rotary Bolt, an American Invention, Is Strongest
Device Known for Locking tlie Barrels to the Frame

triggers must be pressed to withdraw
the automatic safety bar.

To make the shotgun less likely to
go off in the hands of the careless gun-
ner, the tumbler safety has been incor-
porated into the mechanism of a few
American weapons. The tumbler
safety is a bar, automatically operated
by the triggers, and interposed between
the strikers and their firing pins. This
device makes it impossible for the arm
to be discharged by the hammer jarring
off when dropped, for the tumbler bar
occupies its position between the strik-
ers and firing pins until the triggers
are pulled.

The practical value of both the auto-
matic safety and the tumbler type of
bolt is questioned by practically all ex-
perienced gunners. Its presence is de-
signed to make the arm less dangerous

The Three-Bolt Mechanism Is One Form of the Rotary-
Bolting Principle Used by Many Gun Builders

in the hands of careless and ignorant
sportsmen. This it may serve to do,
but since there should be no excuse for

tolerating the latter, most handlers of
the scatter gun fail to see the utility of
the former. The novice should lose no
time in acquiring the knack of han-

The Fore End Is an Extension of the Stock beyond
the Triggers and the Frame

dling his chosen weapon, and if he will
but exercise a little care, he will find
the hand-operated safety quite suffi-
cient, for he will not be troubled
through accidental discharge of his
gun. By far the larger portion of acci-
dents occur through careless handling
of the gun and by the untimely pulling
of the trigger, either by dragging the
gun through the brush or by nervous-
ness, and it is impossible to make use
of a safety device to prevent the acci-
dental discharge.

The Barrels of a Shotgun

Between 15 and 20 years ago shot-
gun barrels were made by combining
bars of iron and steel and weldinsj them

The Comparative Sizes of a 20-Gauge and a 12-Gauge
Repeating Shotgun

together to form barrels of the proper
diameter or bore. When these strips
of metal were twisted to make a spiral
tube they were welded together to
make the familiar "twist," "laminated,"
and "Damascus" barrels. Sometimes
three, four, and five strips of iron and
steel were twisted together to make
the "three-stripe," "four-stripe," and
"five-stripe" Damascus barrels. This
old type of a barrel was strong and
flexible, but being comparatively soft,
it was easily damaged by denting.

The modern compressed-steel bar-
rels are fashioned from solid drawn
steel, are very hard, will stand much
higher pressure than the Damascus
type, and since the process of manu-
facture is simpler, a first-class steel

barrel may be produced at one-quarter
the cost of the old type. The several
manufacturers have adopted trade
names to distinguish the various grades
of steel barrels. Various trade names
come from abroad, and those of Amer-
ican manufacture are labeled "nitro-
steel," "armor steel," "high-pressure
steel," etc. While differences very
likely exist in the quality of the differ-
■ ent barrels sold under the several
names, all the barrels used by repu-
table gun builders vi^ill be found amply
strong to resist any pressure exerted
by ordinary charges of powder, hence
the cheaper guns are perfectly safe and
will stand many years of hard shooting.

Locking the Barrels to the Frame

In the early models of the breech-
loader the barrels were locked to the
frame with a bolt operated by a lever
placed under the fore end. All modern
guns have the top-lever action. In this
device a "lump" is fastened to the
under side of the barrels near the
breech, forming a hinged joint to which
the fore end is attached when fitting
the barrel and stock together. When
closed, the breech end of the barrels is
held down to the action and tight up
against the breech by a slide, or bolt,
which fits into the "lump" attached
underneath the barrels. Different mak-
ers use various forms of top-lever bolt-
ing devices, as the "hook rib" or. "exten-
sion rib," otherwise known as the "doll's
head," and the cross bolt first used by
Greener, the celebrated English gun
builder. All of these devices are satis-
factory on a good grade of gun, but
the strongest mechanism is an Amer-
ican invention, known as the Smith
rotary bolt. This rotary bolt is tapered
and is pushed through an opening in
the rib by means of a strong spring.
Mechanically this locking device is all
that can be desired, and it cannot
loosen through manipulation, because
of its compensating feature, that is,
the spring forces the bolt farther in as
the bearings become worn through
much service. Many of our well-known
builders use this splendid fastening.

Shotgun Stocks

Walnut is exclusively used for gun-
stocks, and the several grades are
termed plain American walnut, fine
American walnut, English walnut, se-
lected English walnut, fine English
walnut, Italian walnut, and Circassian
walnut. The plain American walnut is
simply a common quality of black wal-
nut, oiled and varnished, and fitted on
the cheaper guns. Fine American wal-
nut is of better quality, darker in color,
and of better grain. It is strong and
durable, and when well oiled and pol-
ished by hand, it makes a neat stock
for the inexpensive gun. The selected
English walnut is of good color and
with good grain. When oiled and
hand-polished it makes an attractive
stock for the knockabout gun. Fine
English walnut is usually fitted to guns
selling at a higher price, and is gen-
erally made to order. Italian walnut
is a dark wood with a fine grain and is
usually supplied to order on the finest
guns. Circassian walnut is the finest
wood obtainable, of a rich dark color
and a fine curly grain. It is therefore
expensive and only finished to order
and fitted to the most expensive guns.

The Fore End

The fore end is an extension of the
stock beyond the triggers and frame
and affords a grip for the extended
hand — protecting it from the hot bar-
rel— serves to lock the barrel to the
frame, and likewise holds the ejector
mechanism. The Deely & Edge, and
Snal fore ends are both used on Amer-
ican guns, and they are so well de-
signed and made that it is practically
impossible for the modern types to
loosen even when the arm has been
subjected to long, hard service. Hence
this detail of the shotgun need not be
considered when selecting an arm.

Self-Ejector Mechanism

Although a great many shooters do
not use the self-ejector, this handy de-
vice will many times prove of great
value in the field, for when the birds are
coming fast and the shooter happens to
score a miss, the self-ejector throws out

the empty shell and enables him to
shove in a fresh load to bring down
the following bird. The nonejecting
arm is plenty good and quick enough
for trap use, for when shooting "clays,"
plenty of time is given each man to
reload between shots, but for upland-
bird and for duck shooting, the auto-
matic ejector is a desirable addition to
the double-barreled gun.

Repeating and Automatic Shotguns

While a good double-barreled gun in
the hands of the average shot will very
likely bag as many birds as the shooter
is entitled to — and it may be depended
on to do this when fitted with a good
automatic ejector — many shooters pre-
fer the repeating gun. The hand-oper-
ated, sliding fore arm, trombone-action,
or pump gun is so well-known that no
recommendation is needed. It will suf-
fice to mention that it will do every-
thing that a double-barreled gun can
perform, and considering that every
pump gun is self-ejecting, and its cost
less than an equal grade of double
gun equipped with an ejecting de-
vice, it is not difficult to understand
its popularity. So far as accuracy is
concerned, the repeater will shoot
rather more steadily than the double-
barreled gun in the hands of the aver-
age man, and after two shots have been
fired, there remain four more in the
magazine. Rapid firing is not always
an advantage, of course, but when after
ducks, the third shot is often wanted in
the interval that is required to load the
double-barreled gun.

The automatic, or self-loading, shot-

The Shells are Started About One-Quarter Inch in the
Regular Way Before the Ejector Kicks Them Out

gun is the logical development of the
repeater, and while its mechanism is
necessarily more complicated, it has
some merits peculiarly its own. The
devotee of the double barrel is inclined
to believe that the repeater and the au-
tomatic shotgun do not balance so well

as his favorite weapon, and the man
who swears by the pump gun is in-
clined to think that the automatic arm
is balanced like a club and prone to
get out of order. Both factions can put

The Automatic Ejector Mechanism Enables the Gun-
ner to Shove in a Fresh Load for the Following Bird

up plenty of argument to support their
opinions, but to the unprejudiced gun-
ner, both the repeater and the self-
loader will prove very fine guns after
the shooter has become familiar in han-
dling them. The double-barrel is a
mighty fine gun, so is the repeater and

A Self-Loading Shotgun in the Positions of the
Action Open and Closed

again the automatic ; so let the gunner
pick out the type he likes best.

How to Select a Shotgun

That the shooter may not be handi-
capped by using a misfit gun, it is well
to make a selection at one of the larger
dealers' where guns of various sizes,
weights and lengths, as well as drops in
stocks, may be tried until one is found
that fits the gunner the best. A good
shot can pick up almost any gun and
do fairly accurate shooting with it, but
he can do better work with a gun fit-
ting him properly. The chief measure-
ments of a gunstock are the length and
drop of the stock, and the drop and
shape of the comb. The ordinary
thickness of the grip will suit the aver-
age hand, but in the case of unusually
large or small hands, this must be
taken into consideration. For the aver-
age man these measurements will prob-

ably be about right : Length of stock,
from forward trigger to center of butt
plate, A-A, 14 to 141/0 in., drop at comb,
B-B, 11/2 to 1% in., which will give cor-

A Repeating Shotgun and the Position of Its

Different Parts When Cocked and

after Firing

responding drop at the heel, C-C, from
2I/0 to 3 in. A fairly straight stock of
good length may be reckoned an ad-
vantage for trap shooting, but for use
in the field, a somewhat crooked stock
with more drop at the comb, say, 1%
in. with 2%-in. drop at the heel, will
more fully meet the average shooter's
idea of a well-balanced gun. However,
as men differ, and there are as many
faces and eyes as there are men, every
shooter must decide this question for
himself. So far as the circumference
of the grip is concerned, the size of the
shooter's hand and the length of his
fingers will decide this detail. For a

The Measurem.^nts are Taken of the Drop at the

Comb ana Keel, and of the Stock from the

Butt to the Forward Trigger

small hand, a T-in. grip is about right,
while a grip of 7io in. will probably fit
the large hand well. The question of
straight or pistol grip is purely a mat-
ter of personal taste, for one is as good
as the other so far as accurate handling
of the gun is concerned.

The Gauge, or Size of Bore

The 10-gauge may be occasionally
useful for long-range duck and goose
shooting, but for ordinary duck and
upland use the r2-gauge is plenty large
enough. The larger the gauge the
greater will be the killing zone, and up
to their ranges the small bores may,
for all practical purposes, be regarded
as shooting quite as accurately and
with as much power as the heavier
gauges, that is, the small bores will
shoot to kill if held correctly. The
standard 12-gauge gun is fitted with
30-in. barrels, weighs 7 to 8 lb., and
the standard load for the field is 3 dr.
of powder and IVs oz. of shot. This
gives a killing range up to 40 yd. The
standard 16-gauge, with 30-in. barrels,
weighs from 61/0 to 71^ lb., and the
standard load is Si/o dr. of powder and
1 oz. of shot, with a killing range up to
35 yd. The standard 20-gauge, with
28-in. barrels, weighs from 5 to 6I/2 lb.
and the standard load is 21^4 dr. of pow-
der and Vs oz. of shot. Best killing
range up to 30 yards.

For an all-purpose gun, suitable for
wild fowling as well as upland shoot-
ing, the 12-gauge is the best choice,
although the 16-gauge will be found a
hard-hitting weapon. For the good
shot, the 20-gauge will prove a fine
little arm for upland work, only th«
gunner must shoot well with the small
bore to kill his bird clean. Contrary
to the notion, the large bore, not the
small gauge, will bring the most game
to the novice's ba?.

Mission Candlestick

Even though a candlestick is one of
the simplest of the smaller household
furnishings, it nevertheless can be made
a very attractive feature.

For the illustrated mission design, a
base, 4 by 4 by % in., should be pro-
vided. This is cut, with the grain, for
a l^-in.-wide groove, 1/4 in. deep and ex-
tending from one side to within l j in.
of the opposite side. In this groove is to
fit the handle, which is made from a
piece of I/2 by 2i/4 by 3%-in. stock. It

is provided with a finger-grip hole % by
11/4 in. at one end. Its upper edge
should be marked off from the center
pedestal and fitted to it. The pedestal
can be made from stock 1% by lyg by 5
in. A tenon, % in- long by 1^^ in.
square, is formed on the lower end.
This tenon is to fit a mortise in the
center of the base. A slot i/o in. wide
is cut centrally in the pedestal, and 2 in.
above the lower end, to fit the handle.
The upper end of the pedestal is cut
straight for % in. and squared off to
1% in. This is to serve as a tenon to
fit a corresponding mortise in the \-> by
2-in. square top. The sides of the
pedestal are evenly tapered oft' from the
1%-in. square base to the lower end of
the 1%-in. square tenon, at the top.

The parts, before assembling, should
be thoroughly sandpapered, as consid-
erable difficulty would otherwise be ex-
perienced. No nails or screws need be
used, as good glue will keep the parts
together equally well. When com-
pletely assembled, a hole should be
drilled through the top and into the
pedestal, to fit the size of candle to be

Mission Candlestick of Pleasing Design, That will
Appear Well with Other Furniture of This Class

used. A carefully applied mission stain
and varnish will give a proper finish
to the candlestick. — Contributed by G.
Crossley, Erie, Pa.

Pin Setter for the Home Tenpins

Bowling with a set of small tenpins,
which can be purchased at a depart-
ment store, is a very interesting game.
The chief draw-
back, however, is
the setting of the
pins. With a lit-
tle rack like the
one shown
illustration

All the Tenpins are Quickly Set, and Each in Its
Proper Place

interest in the game may be increased
considerably. It not only helps in
setting the pins rapidly, but insures a
good setting with the proper spacing
between the pins. It is very simple
to make, as it consists of a triangular
piece of wood with ten holes bored
into it at the proper places, the dimen-
sions of which will be governed by the
size of the pins, and three supports.
The pins are dropped in the holes and
the rack lifted from them. — Contrib-
uted by F. K. Howard, Los Angeles,
California.

Magically Naming a Written Card

This experiment consists in request-
ing anyone of a company of spectators
to name a card and write it on a piece
of paper, whereupon the performer in-
stantly names the card written.

Two persons are necessary, the per-
former and his assistant. The per-

'62

former leaves the room while the spec-
tator writes the name of the card on
the paper, the assistant supplying the

The Markings are Memorized so That Only Positions
of Pencil and Paper will be Seen

paper and pencil. When the name of
the card is written, the paper is folded
by the spectator and handed to the
assistant with the pen or pencil. The
assistant lays the pencil and paper on
a table in certain positions to desig-
nate the name of the card. Previous
to this test, the performer and the as-
sistant must have the positions of the
paper and pencil mentally fixed in their
minds. Referring to the sketch, the four
sides of the table represent the card
suits, viz., spades, hearts, clubs, and
diamonds; and an imaginary circle
divided into twelve parts indicates
the number of the card, 1 standing for
ace, 2 for deuce, and so on.

The assistant, knowing what has
been written on the paper, places the
paper to indicate the suit, and the pen-
cil is laid so that it points to the num-
ber on the imaginary circle, or dial.
The one shown in the sketch is desig-
nating the four of hearts.

Dry-Cleaning Mixture

An emulsion of gasoline and water
is much used by dry cleaners for re-
moving grease, tar, and paint spots
from clothing. It is in the form of a
thick, white sirup, which evaporates
entirely and is not injurious to any

fabric or color. The directions for pre-
paring this emulsion should be fol-
lowed out carefully.

Dissolve, in 1 qt. of boiling water,
1/2 oz. of pure castile soap, and i/4 oz.
of gum arable. Allow this to cool, and
then add 1 oz. glycerin, 1 oz. strong
aqua ammonia, I'/j oz. chloroform, and
2 oz. sulphuric ether. Shake well, and
pour enough of the mixture into a
quart bottle to fill it for % in. On top
of this, pour not more than ^4 in- of
gasoline, and shake until creamy. Re-
peat the addition of gasoline, shaking
each time, until full. The cleaning
mixture will then be ready for use, and
may be applied with a rag, or small
brush.

If, on adding the first lot of gasoline
and shaking, the mixture does not be-
come emulsified, it proves that too
much gasoline has been added. In this
case, allow it to stand for a few min-
utes, and pour oft the excess gasoline
which comes to the top. Shake well,
and add a smaller quantity of gasoline.
When the bottle is half full, larger
quantities of gasoline may be added at
a time.

It is interesting to note that the more
gasoline is added, the thicker the emul-
sion becomes, and if the addition of
gasoline and shaking is prolonged, a
semisolid jelly is formed, which will
not run from a bottle. — Contributed by
H. E. Zschiegner, Wellsville, N. Y.

Locking Window Sash

An excellent lock for window sash is
to use two small, but strong, hinges,
one fastened on
each side of the
top sash close to
the upper edge
of the lower
sash. This al-
lows one wing
of each hinge to
swing freely,
which permits it
to be swung over the upper edge of the
lower sash, locking both securely. In
placing the hinges in this position, they
are out of sight and not in the way.

TH£ SHOTGUN

AND / HOW T

/ !'|/ByStillmai

PART II— The Choke and Pattern of a Gun ' ''

"LTAVING picked
■'■ -*■ "fits the man,'
choke and pattern
sidered. For trap !

out a gun that
' the matter of
should be con-
;hooting and for

wild fowling, the full-choke gun may
be considered a necessity, since it will
throw the charge of shot within a rela-
tively small circle ; in other words,
make a denser pattern. Chokeboring
is accomplished by constricting the
barrel at the muzzle from ^^5 to %o
in., the amount of taper depending on
the size of the bore and gauge. The
narrowing of the muzzle forces the
charge of shot together and prevents
the pellets from scattering over a wide
area. Guns are bored with varying de-
grees of choke, from the full to the
plain cylinder, and the manufacturers
compare them by recording the num-
ber of pellets which any given choke
will shoot in a 30-in. circle at 30 yd., or
any other range selected as the maxi-
mum distance. This gives the pattern
from which we find that the full choke
produces 70 per cent, the half choke
CO per cent, the quarter choke 50 per
cent, and the cylinder 30 per cent.

For trap shooting and wild fowling
the expert considers it essential that
his 12-gauge should be capable of
throwing not less than 300 pellets ;
hence he selects a full-choked gun with
a pattern of 300 or better. As a full-
choked 16-gauge will pattern about
275, it may be used for ducks with good
success. For a general-purpose gun, a
pattern from 250 to 275 will prove quite

satisfactory for ducks and upland
game, and this may be had by picking
out a half-choked 13-gauge, or select-
ing a full-choked 16-gauge. The 20-
gauge gives a pattern of about 245
shot, and thus scatters its charge over
too large a circle to prove effective on
wild fowl, although it is very effective
on upland game, which is flushed not
over 35 yd. from the shooter. A gun
patterning from 225 to 250 may be con-
sidered the ideal upland gun, and this
may be had by choosing a quarter-
choked 12-gauge, a half-choked 16-
gauge, or a full-choked 20-gauge gun.
These are known as "open-choked"
guns, are the most efifective at short
ranges, up to 35 yd., and cannot be de-
pended upon to kill clean when used
at longer ranges.

Shooting with Both Eyes Open

To handle the weapon well is the de-
sire of every sportsman, and this knack
is not difficult to attain, providing the
novice will make a good beginning.
First of all, it is necessary to hold the
gun correctly, and while the forward
hand may grip the fore end at any
convenient point, a well extended arm
gives a better control of the gun when
aiming, by giving free play to all the
muscles of the arm ; hence the gun
should be held in a manner natural to
the shooter, rather than in imitation of
the style of another.

The old manner of aiming the shot-
gun by closing one eye and sighting

along the rib is fast becoming obsolete,
for better shooting may be done by»
keeping both eyes open. Doctor Carter
was the first great exponent of binoc-
ular shooting, and while but few men
can hope to approach this famous gun-
ner's skill, every one can learn to
handle a shotgun more quickly and
with greater accuracy by following his
common-sense method. It may appear
a bit strange at first to disregard the
sights and keep both eyes open, and
aim the gun by merely pointing it in
the desired direction, but to sight
along the rib and attempt to see the
bead on the muzzle end can only make
a slow and poky shot. This old-fash-
ioned method may be good enough for
making patterns on a stationary target,
but it is not much of a success for
wing shooting. For fine rifle shooting
the left eye is invariably closed for
target work, but for snap-shooting
both eyes are kept open, the sights are
disregarded, and the aim is taken by
pointing the gun at the object to be
hit. Of course, there are many good
gunners who shoot with one eye
closed, but the novice who is anxious
to become a good wing shot should
make it a point to practice with both
eyes open. Vision is always clearer,
and the objects more accurately judged
with both eyes open than with one,
and when this is done, and one eye con-
trols the line of aim, the shooter is not
so likely to make mistakes in estimat-
ing the distances and the rapidity of
the flight of his game. In shooting,
the right eye naturally governs the
right shoulder, and vice versa, and this
is so because habit has trained the eye
to do this. To find which is the master
eye, hold a pencil out at arm's length
and point it at some small distant ob-
ject with both eyes open, then close
the left eye, and if the pencil still
points to the object, the right eye con-
trols the vision, and is the master eye.
Should the closing of the left eye alter
the aim, the right eye must be trained
by practice until it becomes the master
*ye, or else the gun must be shot from
iie left shoulder, which is many times
more difficult. The modern way of

mastering wing shooting is to point
the gun where both eyes are looking,
and after a little practice this may be
done quickly, and the charge thrown
more accurately at the object than by
closing one eye, or sighting along the
barrel in the old manner.

The Knack of Hitting a Flying Target

When shooting at clay targets, or
at a flying bird, allowance must be
made for the swiftness of flight and
the distance from the shooter to the
game, or in other words, the shooter
must calculate the speed of the flying
target and allow the probable time it
will take for the shot to reach its mark.
To make a quick snap shot at the fly-
ing target, the gun may be directly
thrown at the mark and discharged as
quickly as possible, or the gun may
cover the mark and be quickly swung
ahead and the charge sent at the point
where the swiftly moving bird will be
found when the shot gets there. Snap-
shooting is only possible when the
birds are flying straight away or quar-
tering, and as the shooter fires point-
blank at the rapidly moving bird, the
shot must be delivered so rapidly that
only a very quick and responsive
trigger and a fast man back of it can
hope to score even a fair percentage
of hits. A more certain way of aim-
ing a snap shot is to throw up the
barrel below the bird, then rapidly
swing it to the proper elevation ahead
of the moving target, and throw the
shot at the point where the line of the
aim and the flight of the bird intersect.
For shots at quail, woodcock, and par-
tridge in the brush, the quick snap shot
often must be taken, regardless of the
chances of missing, for to delay even
a second will lose the bird. When a
bird rises near the shooter, no allow-
ance of lead or elevation are required,
and the charge is thrown directh' at
the bird.

The rapid swing, however, is the
most accurate manner of using the
shotgun, at all angles and at any dis-
tance within the killing zone of the
weapon. To make this shot, the gun
must be thrown up behind the bird and

then rapidly swung ahead of it, throw-
ing the charge without checking the
swing of the arm. In this style of snap-
shooting, the elevation of the gun must
be identical with the flight of the bird,
inasmuch as the gun follows it, and if
the gun is swung about three
times as fast as the bird is
traveling, plenty of allowance
for the time necessary to press
the trigger and deliver the shot
at the determined point will be
made.

To swing deliberately and
cover the bird with the sight,
then shove the gun ahead to
give the proper lead, is all right
for duck shooting where the
game is usually seen approach-
ing and thus remains within

painting a 4-in. circle in the center ot
each sheet. Tack it up on a board fence,
or on a board hung on a tree, measure
off 60 ft., and
try a shot. The
shot will not

■}%^

.:s-

range for a longer time. But '\^yi

this deliberate style of hand-
ling the gun is far too slow for the
uplands, and since the rapid swing is
the only accurate manner of cutting
down the fast bird, and usually useful
for wild fowling, the novice should
confine his practice to this practical
style of wing shooting.

Stationary-Target Practice

The first great mistake the novice is
likely to make is the natural one of
supposing that he must take his gun
to the field and learn how to handle it
by practicing at flying game. This is
by no means the best method, and there
is scarcely a poorer way of becoming
a wing shot, because the gunner is in-
tent upon bagging the game and for-
gets to observe the many little points
of gunnery, shooting high and low, and
making the hundred and one mistakes
of judgment he would not be guilty
of when practicing at a stationary
mark. Snap and wing shooting is the
last word in shotgun handling, requir-
ing quickness in throwing the gun, as
well as a trained eye to calculate the
distance from and the speed of the fly-
ing target. To acquire confidence in
using the gun, begin by shooting at a
fixed mark. A good target maj^ be
made by obtaining a dozen, or two,
sheets of stout wrapping paper and

The Forward Hand may Grip the

Fore End at Any Point, but a

Well- Extenc^ed Arm Gives a

Better Control of the Gun

spread very much at this short range,
and it will be an easy matter to de-
termine the result of your skill in
holding a dead-on to the large mark.
To avoid flinching and other move-
ments of the head and body, caused by
the recoil, begin your first practicing
with a light powder-and-shot charge,
say, about 3 dr. of bulk measure, or
its equivalent in smokeless, and '^g oz.
of No. 8 or 9 shot. There is no ad-
vantage in using a heavier charge, and
the recoil of the gun will appear much
greater in deliberate shooting at a tar-
get than is likely to be felt during
the excitement incidental to shooting
in the field. A dozen shots at these
targets will enable the gunner to make
a good score by deliberate holding,
and when this can be done without
flinching, snap and wing shooting may
begin.

Snap and Wing Shooting

The object which the gunner should
now strive for is to train the eye, hand,
and gun to work in unison, and to do
this, bring the gun quickly to the
shoulder, point it to the mark, and
press the trigger without stopping the
upward and even swing of the barrels.
At the first few trials some difficulty
may be encountered with the pressing

of the trigger at the proper moment,
but a little practice will soon tell how
to time the shots. Note the phrase,
"press the trig-
ger," for the trig-
ger is not pulled
by the forefinger
alone, but rather
pressed by clos-

SWING GUN ACROSS TARGET AS IN-
DICATED BY ARROWS AND

SHOOT IN PASSING
V.

practically every novice makes when
in the field, although the error is likely
to pass unnoticed when after game.

As the gunner
acquires profi-
ciency in swinging
the gun from side
to side, try swing-

ing both hands, the
forward hand on the
fore end pushing and
closing, and the hand
grasping the stock being drawn back
and squeezed at the same instant. This
is easily done, but rather hard to pic-
ture. After a few trials with an empty
gun, the novice will see the point, and
also discover the fact that the recoil of
the arm is much lessened by this
proper grip of the weapon.

Confine the first practice in snap-
shooting to throwing the gun to the
shoulder, and when proficient in liit-
ting the mark, try a snap shot by
swinging the gun from the side, right
to left and also left to right. Do not
attempt to check the even swing of
the gun, but rather let the barrels
swing past the mark, concentrating the
mind upon pressing the trigger the in-
stant the line of aim covers the mark.
Practice swinging slowly, and after
being able to hit the mark with the
center of the charge pretty regularly,
increase the speed of the swing. In
doing this, it will be discovered that
the speed of pressing the trigger must
also be increased to balance the speed
of the moving barrel, and very likely
it will be found that the natural ten-
dency is to press the trigger a bit late.
This is the common mistake which

Train the Eye, Hand, and

Gun to Work in Unison,
by Bringing the Gun Quickly to the
Shoulder, Pointing It at the Mark,

and Pulling the Trigger without risfllt tO left and Up-
Stopping the Motion o£ the Barrels ^ , , i_ i ■

ward, at an oblique

ing the gun at dif-
ferent angles,
changing the angle
of the swing with
each shot, from

angle upward, and so on, until it is
possible to hit the mark with a fair
certainty from a variety of angles.
When trying out the several swings,
one should always begin slowly and
increase the speed of the swing as
he becomes more expert, only making
sure to shoot by calculation and not
by guess. The manner of acquiring
expertness sounds easy and is com-
paratively easy, and, as it is the back-
bone of snap-shooting, improvement
will be rapid if the novice is willing
to practice slowly and master each de-
tail in turn. Do not make the mis-
take of overdoing the thing at the out-
set by shooting too long at a time. A
box of 25 loads is ample for a day's
practice, since it is not how much one
shoots, but how well, that counts.

Snap-Shooting at Moving Targets

When the gunner has reached the
point where he can hit the stationary
target by swinging his gun both fast
and slow, he has acquired better con-
trol of the weapon than many old
shooters, and he is well prepared to
take up snap-shooting at flying or mov-
ing targets. The access to a gun club

where clay birds may be shot at, will
prove of much value, but this is not
absolutely necessary, since tin cans,
bits of brick, and bottles, thrown in
the air at unknown angles by a com-
panion, will afford the needed variety.
Better than this is one of the inex-
pensive "hand traps" which project the
regulation clay targets by means of
a powerful spring worked by a trigger.
One of the large powder manufacturers
makes a trap of this kind, and a very
good trap can be had for $1.50. The
standard clay targets cost about $2.50
a barrel of 500. Practice of this sort
ma}' be made a very interesting and
highly instructive sport, providing the
targets are projected from different
and unexpected angles, thus simulat-
ing the many-angled flight of the live
bird.

Value of Second Barrel in Shooting

The use of the second barrel should
not be overlooked in practicing with
the idea of becoming an all-around
wing shot, for the second shot is often
needed to kill a cripple, or bring down
a bird which has been missed with the
first shot. Two-shot practice should
begin by placing two paper targets
about 20 ft. apart, then shooting at
the first one and continuing to swing
the gun to cover the second target.
Practice swinging from various angles
as directed for the initial practice, in-
creasing the speed of the swing as
proficiency is gained, and fail not to
profit by the mistakes which must in-
evitably occur to all who try to master
the shotgun. After a reasonable
amount of practice, conducted along
these lines, the gunner may venture
afield, and if his acquaintance includes
an old seasoned sportsman who will
point out the mistakes made, much
may be learned regarding the knack of
handling the gun, as well as relating
to the haunts and habits of our wild
game birds.

Cleaning and Care of the Gun

A good shotgun is a thoroughly re-
liable and dependable weapon, but as
with all tools of the sportsman's craft,

the best results can only be had when
the arm is in good condition. It is
gun wisdom always to clean the
weapon after a day's shooting, and the
amateur should make it a positive rule
never to put his gun away until it is
cleaned. The sooner firearms are
cleaned after the firing the better, and
if cleaned before the burnt powder has
had time to corrode the steel, much
future trouble is saved. In cleaning
the barrels, never rest the muzzle
against the floor. If a rest is needed,
use an old piece of carpet or a bundle of
rags. Clean from the breech end only,
as any slight dust, or burr, at the muz-
zle will greatly impair the shooting
qualities of any firearm. Never use a
wire-wheel scratchbrush, as it will
scratch the polished steel ; a soft brass-
wire cleaner is the only suitable imple-
ment for this work. There are several
good cleaners to be had. For removing
any rust deposits, a brass brush may be
used, while for ordinary cleaning,
plenty of cloth should be run through
the barrels, taking care that it touches
every part of the interior. This is
easily done by rotating the cleaning
rod as it is pushed through the barrel
from the breech to the muzzle. When
putting the gun away, the barrels
should be stopped, at the breech and
muzzle, with tightly fitting corks, or
gun ropes may be run through the
barrels after soaking them in some
good oil. To prevent rusting, cover
the metal, outside as well as inside the
barrels, by smearing on a little heavy
lubricating oil. Slip covers of chamois
are often used to protect the stock and
barrels before putting them in the
leather case, but stout woolen covers
are better, since chamois is likely to
absorb more or less moisture.

The mechanism of a gun is not
exactly complicated, but the novice had
better leave well enough alone and not
attempt to dismount the locks or tinker
with the mechanism. The modern
steel barrel is very hard and not easily
dented, but if so injured, it is better
to ship it to the factory for repairs
than to trust it to the crude methods
of the average gun repairman.

«s

A gun should be given ordinary-
good care, and this is not forthcoming
if one makes a practice of opening it
and letting the barrels drop down with
a bang. Snapping the triggers on an
empty barrel is likewise foolish. If
one desires to practice trigger pressing,
put a couple of empty shells in the
barrels.

If one owns a good-grade shotgun,
the stock is probably finished in oil and
hand-rubbed to a nice, durable polish.
On cheap arms the varnish is usually
employed to give an attractive finish
in the store. Of course, this varnish
will scratch, and otherwise come oft,

and spoil the appearance of the arm.
If a good finish is wanted, do not re-
varnish the stock, but remove all the
old varnish by using a little varnish re-
mover, and rub down with oil. For an
extra-fine polish, wet the wood to
raise the grain ; rub down with very
fine sandpaper; wet the wood again,
and sandpaper a second or a third
time ; then rub down with oil until the
wood is saturated with it, and polish
with a cloth, using plenty of pressure,
and the stock will be as fine in ap-
pearance as if it had the "London oil
finish" supplied with all high-grade
sruns.

Brass Machine Screws with Nuts

When small brass machine screws
and threaded nuts to fit them are
needed in small devices, or for experi-
mental work,
^ - ^ and the neces-

sary taps and
dies are not at
hand, secure
some old brass
globe holders and cut out the threaded
hole for the nut. The fastening-screw
arrangement on these will answer
every purpose very well. Enough
metal can be left on each one to fasten
it on wood, as shown at A, or they can
be cut, as shown at B, if they are to be
soldered to metal.

Snapper-Shell Ash Tray

An odd and unusual ash tray can be
made from a
snapping - turtle
shell. Four brass,
or wood, balls,
or knobs, se-
cured with
screws, as
shown, will keep
it balanced. The
exact points to
place the supports under the tray will
have to be determined by experiment,
as no two shells are of exactly the same
shape.

WOOD KNOB

A Portable Fire Screen

The fire screen illustrated can be
constructed at very small expense. In
brief, the screen consists of a light
metal frame surrounding three pieces
of V's-in. sheet asbestos. The frames in-
closing the asbestos pieces are hinged
together, as shown in Fig. 1, with spe-
cial hinges made to meet the require-
ments.

The asbestos comes in sheets 40 in.
square, and this size determines the
outside dimensions of the screen. The
size of the different sections can, of
course, be changed if such a change
will better suit the existing needs. By
making the screen in sections it may
be folded up and thus occupy much
less space, and when in use, the sec-
tions, b}' placing them at an angle to
each other, serve the purpose of legs,
which would be required if the screen
were in one straight piece.

The dimensions and form of the
outer portions of the frame are given
in Fig. 2, and those of the inner por-
tions, or edges, where the hinges are
attached, are given in Fig. 3. The
joining edges of the frames are made
wider than the others for the reason
that some of the metal is cut away
where the hinges are attached. These
frames may be made from heavy tin
or galvanized iron, and it will be a sim-
ple matter for a tinner to bend them
into shape. After all these pieces are

bent, fit them together at the corners,
making sure that they clamp tightly
on the asbestos sheets, as these help
to hold the frame in shape. Drill a
small hole in each of the corners and
provide a small round-head rivet of
proper length for each of the holes.
The vertical portions of the frame
should be placed inside of the hori-
zontal, or end, pieces at the corners.

Make four pieces of brass having the
form and dimensions given in Fig. 4.
Two %-in. holes are drilled in each of
these pieces as indicated. Slots are
cut in the inner edges of the frames
of such dimensions as will accommo-
date these brass pieces. The location
of these slots is given in Fig. 1. Ob-
tain eight pieces of Vs-in. steel rod,
about 3 in. long. Place the ends of the
brass pieces in the slots in the inner
frame and then put the rods through
the holes in the ends of them and sol-
der the ends of the rods to the inside
of the frames. Make sure that there
is no solder run in between the rod
and piece of brass, as this will prevent
the hinge from operating freely. After
the hinges are in place, the frames are
riveted together. Notches are cut in
the edges of the asbestos sheets at the
location of the hinges to allow the lat-

SECTION
OF OUTER FRAME

FlG.2

FiG.S

i — '^

FlG.4

Fire Screen Made of Sheet Asbestos Inclosed in Thin
Metal Frames Hinged Together

ter free movement. The sections of the
screen may be made very rigid by plac-
ing a number of small rivets around the

inner edges of the frame to hold it
tightly against the asbestos. The as-
bestos may be given a coat of bronze,
or be otherwise decorated for appear-
ance.

Tossing a Card at a Mark Accurately

There is an interesting old game
that can be played instead of solitaire.
It consists in trying to toss the great-

llllillllillllllllllllllllllllllllp'"

1 Ji

. a.

/ ~^^ /^l

1 ^^vx.7 rTt^"^'

\ 'W^^ ""^

\ =\ >

1^^

^-tltfl

^^C^^^.

A'- ^N ^,

""■^^^

WrM I

// \ \

^;>s^

k n -a

ppuuimii

W /^

^ ^iti

lljl

^ X.-'-^ D

v*^^

W i

ibi&SB

-^""^

iiii

mA i!

Tossing Cards Accurately so That They will Fall
into a Receptacle Set at a Distance

est number of cards into a small basket
or an upturned stiff hat, set at a dis-
tance. If the cards are held as shown
at A, and tossed as at B, they may be
thrown with surprising accuracy. —
Contributed by James M. Kane,
Doylestown, Pa.

A Sanitary Drinking Tube

To make this tube, procure a piece
of %-in. gauge glass, about 10 in. long,
and bend it by
heating the //

glass with a ;' /' :;::i||

blowtorch ^ //

214 in. from one \y

end, as shown.

If this is done in a place where no air
will strike the glass while it is heated
and the tube is then allowed to cool
slowly, it will not crack. It is used
by putting the short end under the
faucet and drawing on it as on a pipe.

A Comb Cleaner

A very handy device for cleaning
combs can be made from a piece of
spring sheet brass, 41/^ in. long and
about 3 in. wide. Notches are cut in
the ends of the brass with a hacksaw,
making the projections as wide as the

The Twisted Wires Form an Excellent Device for
Cleaning a Comb

saw cut. The brass is then bent into
shape with a special clamp made for
the purpose, which consists of three
pieces of wood, two being cut to form
a curved slot, then fastened to the
third piece. The brass is sprung into
the slot, and then fine wire is stretched
between the ends in the notches. The
wire should be very fine and two
strands twisted together and run
through the notches.

Concealing the House Key

The time-honored custom of con-
cealing the house key under the door
mat, or in the
letter box, when
the family has
not enough keys
to go around, is
so well known
that an unau-
thorized person
seeking to enter
the house would look in these places
first of all.

A simple and effective hiding place
for the key can be quickly and easily
made with the aid of an auger and two

pieces of tin. Pick out an obscure sec-
tion of the porch railing, and in the
edge of this bore a %-in. hole, about
1/4 in. deeper than the length of the
key. Make a piece of tin into a cylin-
der, the same length as the key, so that
the latter will slide easily into the hole.
At one end of this cylinder solder a
1-in. disk of tin, which will make it
appear as in the illustration.

If the key is placed in the cylinder
and the latter pushed into the hole
until it is flush with the surface, it will
scarcely be noticed by anyone not in
the secret, and by painting it the same
color as the railing it will become still
more inconspicuous. — Contributed by
Frank L. Matter, Portland, Ore.

A Mysterious Watch

A very interesting experiment may
be made with the ordinary dollar
watch in illustrating the law of the
pendulum.
A pendulum 39.1
in. long will
make 60 one-way
swings per min-
ute, the number
of swings vary-
ing inversely as
the square root
of the length.
By actual count
it was found that the balance wheel of
the watch in question made 210 one-
way swings per minute, which is just
4 times as fast as the 39-in. pendulum.
Therefore, according to the foregoing
law, a pendulum Vie ^s long, or about
2y^ in., would swing in unison with
the wheel of the watch. The question
then arises as to what would happen
if the watch itself were suspended so as
to swing as a pendulum of the latter
length. The experiment was made as
illustrated, with the result that the
watch keeps on swinging continuously.
The swing amounts to about % in.,
and appears so vigorous that it is al-
most incomprehensible that the small
spring in a watch should be able to
maintain so much weight in continuous
motion for Ji4 hours.

lillu 1 iDllr

k[ Sfillman Taijior

THERE are many enjoyable phases
of the fisher's art. but bait cast-
ing from the free reel probably has a
wider appeal than any other branch of
angling. The pleasure of handling a
short bait-casting rod is in itself a good
sport, even when casting done in the
back yard is made for distance and ac-
curacy only. Get two or three enthu-
siastic casters together, and you may
have an interesting little tournament,
held on a vacant lot, on the lake, or on
the greensward of a city park. There
is plenty of action in casting from the
reel, and it is its variety that has made
angling of this t3'pe so universally pop-
ular. True, considerable practice is re-
quired before the caster is able to shoot
an accurate plug far ofT, but the knack
may be gained after reasonable appli-
cation. The handling of the short rod
differs from all other angling methods
— it is an active sport rather than a
contemplative recreation — and when
the fun of handling a good outfit is
combined with the sport of coaxing out
a black bass, shooting a wooden min-
now among the lily pads for pickerel,
or casting the bait for those pirates of
our fresh-water lakes, the wall-eyed
pike and the muskellunge, the angler
gets a taste of fishing — plus.

The Outfit and Its Selection

A good firearm is necessary to the
good marksman and a well-made,
nicely balanced rod, to which is
clamped a smooth-running reel, is the
essential equipment of an able angler.
Bait casting is, of course, more a mat-
ter of skill than of outfit, but that is no
reason why the angler should be han-

dicapped by poor tackle, although large
expenditure is not necessary in obtain-
ing a satisfactory outfit. The casting
rod may be from 5 to 6 ft. long. Where
the caster regards length of cast as the
important factor, the 5-ft. length will
probably give the best satisfaction.
However, the superiority of one over
the other in this regard is rather to be
found in the elasticity and quality of
the rod than its length. The skill of
the caster is, moreover, the ruling fac-
tor. The 51/^-ft. rod is better than the
5-ft. length for fishing purposes, and
the 6-ft. rod is more resilient than the
5Vl;-ft. tip. If the greatest range is not
of more importance than the landing
of the fish, the longer rod will prove
the most pleasant to handle.

The split-bamboo rod has many
friends, and a well-made rod of this
material is a thoroughly satisfactory
casting tool. A fine-quality casting rod
of split bamboo costs from $10 to $25.
A fairly good rod may be bought for
$2 or a trifle less, and a smooth-running
reel for another $2, while a line for it
will bring the total up to about $5. An
outfit of this kind purchased with dis-
crimination, while not embodying ev-
er3-thing that a critical angler would
desire, will cast a long and accurate
line and stand up under the strain of
handling our heaviest game fish. The
one-piece rod is classed by many an-
glers as the ideal casting rod. The
two-piece rod is handier to pack and is
more generally used.

The chief fault in bait-casting rods
is the stiff action of the tip section.
For tournament casting, a fairly stiff
rod is desirable. The same requirement

holds good for muskellunge and other
heavy fishing. A flexible rod affords
more pleasure in playing black bass and
other active "gamey" fish. However,

The quadruple reel is the logical
choice of the bait caster, the spool turn-
ing four times to one turn of the han-
dle. As the work demanded of a bait-

A Serviceable Reel Costing $4, a High-Grade Reel Costiag $13.50, and a Fine Tournament Casting Reel Costing

$26, are Shown from Left to Right. The Center One Has a Level-Winding Device and a Thumb-Click Drag

on the Rims of the Plates. The Tournament Casting Reel Has a Cork Arbor and Jeweled Bearings

casting reel is different and more
exacting than that of the click reel used
in fly casting, its design is radically dif-
ferent. The best type of click reel is
of large spool diameter and narrow be-
tween plates, while the typical casting
reel is its direct opposite — being long-
barreled, with plates of comparatively
small diameter. For tournament cast-
ing the finest outfit will naturally be
selected, but for practical work it is
unnecessary to pay $2.5 for a finely
wrought reel. Three typical reels are
shown in the illustration. The one at
the left holds 80 yd. of line, can be
easily taken apart for cleaning, and
costs $4. In the center is a level-wind-
ing reel with thumb click and adjust-
able drag placed on the rims of the
plates. It holds 60 yd. of line, and costs
$13..'')0. At the right is a very high-
grade reel for tournament casting. It
has a cork arbor, jeweled bearings,
holds 60 yd. of line, and costs $26.

Any of the better grades of braided
silk are suitable for the bait-casting
line. The average price for a depend-
able line is about $1 for 50 yd. A small •
size line is best, and sizes G and E are
preferred. A brown and green, or other
dark-colored, line is preferable for fish-
ing. The black and white, all white,
and other light-colored, lines are sat-
isfactory for tournament use. After a
day's fishing the line shtluld be un-
reeled and looped around the back of a
chair in loose coils to dry, or loosely
wound upon a drying reel.

For practice and tournament casting,
one of the standard 1-4 and i/>-oz. loaded

the best way to test out a rod is by
casting with it.

The steel casting rod is well liked by
some casters, but only a high-quality
steel rod is worthy of consideration. It
is generally not classed as the equal of
a well-made solid-wood or split-bam-
boo rod, for casting. The better-grade
steel rod is springy and flexible, and
for this reason is a good rod for casting
for black bass. Still, most anglers have
a steel rod in their outfits, but it is not
as generally used at tournaments as
the time-tried wooden rod.

The guide is an important detail of
a casting rod. Inexpensive rods are
usually provided with large metal
guides, while the better rods are fitted
with agate guides, or with agate tip
and hand guides. A guide, ^,4 in. in
diameter, at the butt of the rod is large
enough and will handle the line
smoothly.

The single grip is sometimes pre-
ferred by casters, but the additional
grip placed above the reel is desirable
if much fishing is done. Solid-cork hand
grasps are most satisfactory, being less
slippery when wet and less tiring to
the hand than handles made of other
materials. If the lower grip is prop-
erly shaped with a forward edge, the
forefinger will find a firm grip upon it,
and the finger hook will not be needed.
However, some anglers prefer to use
the hook, and if the rod is not so fitted,
a detachable hook may be fastened to
it. A reel band that locks securely is
desirable, and all the better grades of
casting rods are so fitted.

wooden or metal plugs may be used.
The popularity of bait casting from the
reel has brought forth a large variety
of artificial baits. These wooden and
enameled lures are used by anglers be-
cause they bring the catches.

The wooden minnows, and other
forms of artificial bait, may be roughly
classed in three divisions : the surface
lures for use on top of the water; the
diving and under-water baits; and the
weedless varieties, which are usually of
the surface type. No bait caster's out-
fit is complete unless it includes one
bait of each class, and to meet fully
the different and varying conditions of
weather, season, and water, it is a good
plan to select one of each type in light
and medium-dark colors. A variety of
typical baits are shown in the page
plate at A, B, C, etc. Many of the baits
are provided with one or more eyes for
attaching the line, thus enabling the
caster to spin his bait at different
depths. All of the wooden-body baits
will float, and only dive under the sur-
face when reeled in ; the quicker they
are retrieved the deeper they spin.
While many of these baits have been
designed especially to entice the black
bass, practically all of them are good
for pickerel and general fresh-water
casting, particularly the minnow baits.

The other items which complete the
bait caster's outfit are the landing net
and tackle box. The net should be well
made, with a steel hoop 13 in. or larger
in diameter, and should have a handle
about 3 ft. long. The folding type of
net is the most convenient, and is pro-
vided with a separate handle. The
tackle box may be of sheet metal or
leather, with partitions for holding
reels, baits, and the angling "what
not." A convenient and serviceable
landing net costs $1 or more, and a
tackle box will cost about as much.

Suggestions on Making the Cast

Although much practice is required
before the caster can take his place in
a tournament, "getting the hang" of
handling the short rod and free-run-
ning reel comes quickly. As soon as
the simple principles are understood,

length and accuracy will come only
through practice. Bait casting is easier
than fly casting and the angler need
concern himself only with the length
and accuracy of his cast, since delicacy
does not enter into this phase of fish-
ing. The coarser sweet-water fish, like
black bass and pickerel, are not fright-
ened when the bait hits the water with
a splash — indeed, the splash of the bait
attracts them.

Two methods of casts are used by
bait casters, the overhead and the un-
derhand or side cast. The overhead
cast is used largely by the practical
angler, as well as by those who take
part in tournament contests, because
the bait is projected a longer distance
and may be more accurately placed.
If the novice will thumb the line, as
shown in Fig. 1, with thumb bearing
directly on the cross rod of the reel
with the ball of the thumb resting
lightly on the line, one or two trials
will show the correct manner of spool-
ing. The line is retrieved as shown in
Fig. 2, care being taken to form correct
habits from the start. To make the
cast, reel in the bait until it is some G in.
from the tip, release the click or drag,
and press the ball of the thumb firmly
upon the spooled line. Carry the rod
over the shoulder until it is horizontal
or nearly so, as in Fig. 3, and then
bring it smartly forward, checking it
quickly when it reaches an angle
of some -15°, as shown in Fig. 4. This
projects the bait forward in a straight
line. When the rod is brought forward
the tension of the thumb on the spool
is released so that the spool will re-
volve freely, but enough pressure must
be communicated by the thumb to pre-
vent the reel from spinning faster than
the line is unreeled from the spool,
otherwise backlash will occur. The use
of the whole arm and the weight of the
body, combined with the elasticity of
the pliant rod, enables the caster to
cover a surprisingly long distance after
a little practice. A distance of 150 ft.
is not difficult to attain, but for fishing,
a well-placed cast of 60 or 75 ft. is
long enough to reach promising
stretches of water.

The Method of Thumbing
the Line is Shown in Figure
1, and the Correct Form in
Retrieving the Line, in
Figure 2, The Overhead
Cast is Illustrat-
ed in Figures 3
and 4, and the
U nderhand or
Side Cast in
Figures 6 and 6

ii!ii|iiiiiiiii!ili|li

Typical Baits:

A, Under-
water Minnow:

B, Wabbler
Spoon;

C, Bass;

D, Fluted
Wabbler;

E, Weedless;

F, Diving; G. Combination
Color. Taste, and Smell;
H, Spoon and Minnow
Basb; I. Surface

The underhand or side cast is some-
what easier to master, and is made
much in the same way as the overhead
cast, only the rod is swung horizontally
to the rear, the tip on a level with the
angler's chest, as shown in Fig. 5.
Bring the rod forward smartly in the
direction it is desired to shoot the bait,
check the rod when about horizontal,
partly releasing the pressure of the
thumb, just enough to allow the spool
to revolve freely, and check the line as
the bait hits the water. Figure 5 shows
the beginning of the side cast and Fig.
6 the cast completed. This cast is use-
ful when fishing from a shore overhung
with trees, and with practice the bait
may be projected a long distance.

The chief factor of skill in bait cast-
ing from the reel lies in controlling the
line, and the thumb must be trained to
do this through practice. Some casters
turn the reel sideways with the handle
downward while making the cast, but
the majority keep the reel level and
cast with it in the same position as
when reeling in. Thumbing the line is
easiest done when the spool is well
filled, and if the casting line is not long
enough to do this, sufficient common
line should be first wound on to fill it.

The successful bait caster is one who
possesses an intimate knowledge of the
fish he casts for, and while a lengthy
exposition is not to form a part of this
article, reference to the fish commonly
sought by the caster will not be amiss.
The fish generally of interest to the
bait caster are small and large-mouth
black bass, pike, muskellunge, and
pickerel. The small-mouth black bass
is classed as the finest game fish, ounce
for ounce, by many casters. The mus-
kellunge, often confused with the Great
Lakes or English pike, is more limited
in range than the pike, being found in
the Great Lakes region and the waters
of the St. Lawrence River.

Since the habits and general charac-
teristics of the large-mouth bass are
much the same as its near relative, the
small-mouth, the following hints apply
to both. When wading, it is well to
cast downstream. Cast in the shallows,
tiear the weeds and snags, and close to

stumps. As little noise should be made

as possible.

For early-spring casting, bass are
likely to be found in the shallows and
sheltered places during the day, be-
cause the water is cool at this season.
The pickerel will also be found in the
warmer and shallower waters. The most
successful baits at this time are the div-
ing minnows, and other under-water
lures. As the warmer days of late
spring and early summer appear, the
bass swim out into deeper and cooler
water, while the pickerel remain close
to the lily pads. The wooden minnows
are excellent baits to use at this season.
When the weeds are very thick, one of
the several kinds of weedless baits may
be used.

The early-morning and late-after-
noon hours are the best for midsummer
casting, and the shallow places are the
good spots to work over. If there are
any brooks or streams emptying into
the lake or pond, do not neglect to
work this stretch well at the mouth.
When the sun is low, the white or
light-colored surface baits may be sub-
stituted for the medium-dark colored
diving varieties, and for casting after
dark, a luminous or moonlight bait will
often give good results. During the
fall months fishing conditions are sim-
ilar to casting in the spring, but the
deep water is then the warmest, and
the under-water or diving baits are
usually the best.

To catch bass, the angler must cast
his bait where the fish are feeding, and
he will find it an advantage to match
natural conditions, so far as possible,
in selecting his baits. For casting on
bright days in clear waters, the red,
white and red, white, or green min-
nows are good lures, as are also the
silverplated spoon baits. Cast well
ahead of the boat, and reel in very
slowly to keep the plug spinning well
below the surface. On cloudy days
and in muddy waters, after a heavy
rain, for example, use red and yellow
baits and goldplated or burnished-cop-
per spoons. The best all-around bait
— equally good for bass and pickerel —
is one of the green-backed minnows.

but no one bait can be expected to
meet all conditions, hence the caster
should have a fair assortment of baits.
A stifif casting rod with plenty of
backbone is essential for muskellunge.
The angler is out after big game and
must be prepared for the sport. A
hard, braided silk line, size E, and 3-0
or 4-0 hooks, snelled and swiveled, are
the best. Any of the wooden baits
suitable for pickerel — the minnows es-
pecially— are good for muskellunge. A
man to handle the oars is a handy com-
panion, and after casting the bait just

outside the weed bed, make for deep
water as soon as a fish is hooked. The
fish will be seen and felt quickly
enough, and when it breaks water
and leaps in the air, give it a little slack
line quickl)-, otherwise the strain will
snap the leader. A twisted, bronzed
trace is the best to use between line
and bait, and this need not be longer
than a foot — 6 in. is enough. When
the fish is brought alongside, shoot him
through the head with a revolver,
which is probably the most satisfactory
manner of making an easy landing.

A Cat-Proof Bird Table

Our bird table is a source of great

enjoyment, particularly since the birds

feel secure from

-•<^— ...... cats or other en-

— ^ \ ^ emies because of

i *" ' \ the construction

of this ornament
in our garden.
The sketch
shows the ar-
rangement of the
table braced at
the top of a 6-ft.
post. Shrubbery
surrounds the
table and a light
evergreen climb-
er clings to the
post, yet does
not give the cats
a good foothold.
Experience has
taught us that
birds in general
prefer bread crumbs to other vari-
eties of food, and they are also fond
of cracked wheat. The linnets like
oranges particularly. We cut an orange
in two and place the halves on the table.
It is amusing to see the birds Ijalance
on one side of the orange while they
peck at the fruit. Soon the orange
peel is almost entirely emptied. We
provide a small basin of fresh water on
the table, and the birds use it as a
drinking cup as well as a bathtub. —
F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.

Making Photographic Prints Glossy

Pictures printed on glossy, semi-
glossy, or semimat paper may be given
a high gloss by the following method :
Obtain a sheet of clean glass, without
scratches, and apply a solution of a
])icce of paraffin, the size of a walnut,
in one pint of gasoline. Use a soft
cloth, and when the glass is dry, rub
until all traces are removed. Soak the
jirints in water for 10 minutes and
place them on the glass, face down.
Place a clean blotter over them and
roll on it with a print roller, to remove
excess water and to give them a good
contact with the glass. Dry the prints
in a warm place, preferably where
there is a draft. — M. E. Fuller, Detroit,
Michigan.

Shaving-Brush Holder

A shaving brush is injured by per-
mitting it to remain in the mug to dry.
It should be suspended with the hair
down so that it may dry thoroughly
and quickly. A hook made from a
piece of wire bent to form a loop, with
a pointed section at each side of it, may
be made easily. The loop should be of
a size to fit the thin portion of the
handle, and the pointed ends of the
wire are driven into the wall or other
support. A loop may be made at each
end instead of pointing the wire and
the device fixed to the wall with two
small screws placed through the end
loops.

CANOE making is commonly con-
sidered more difficult than build-
ing the larger and heavier craft but
many amateurs with only ordinary ex-
perience and tools have turned out
satisfactory canoes, and if the simple
directions given here are carefully fol-
lowed out, the work will proceed rap-
idly and no difficulty will be encoun-
tered. Working with light materials,
the canoe builder must pay particular
attention to the workmanship, and, as
it is many times more difficult to patch
up mistakes in a canoe than it is in
rowboats or other heavier craft, the
work must not be hurried, but plenty
of time taken to do each and every part
well and in a workmanlike manner.

The craft described, which is the
regulation open or Canadian model, is
comparatively light and draws very
little water. It is not a flimsy make-
shift, but a stiff and thoroughly de-

Et^ Stillman Taylor

PART I
Specifications and List of Materials

pendable canoe designed for long serv-
ice, which, barring accidents and given
reasonably good care, will continue to
give satisfaction for many years. The
tools needed are the common ones
found in most homes, consisting of a
rip and cross-cut saw, chisel, screw-
driver, drawknife, awl, brace and bits,
rule, hammer, vise, plane, and three or
four cheap wood, or metal, screw
clamps. The list of material given is
for a canoe having a length of about
16 ft., 31-in. beam, 18-in. depth at the
ends, ISy^-in. depth amidships, and
weighing from 60 to 70 lb., according
to the material.

While oak or ash makes the best
stems, other woods may be used, rock
elm and fir being very satisfactory sub-
stitutes. Where cedar is specified,
spruce pine, cypress, or hr may like-
wise be employed. The materials for
molds and ribbands, which are required

STE^^, 1 piece oak or ash. G ft. long and 5i in. square.

KEELSON, (inside keel) 1 piece oak or ash, 14 ft. long, 3% in. wide, % in. thick.
GUNWALES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 16 ft. lone, % in. wide, % in. thick.
SEAT RISINGS, 2 pieces oak or ash, V2 in. square.

FENDERWALES, 34 ft. Va-in., half-round molding. Oak or ash best for hard knocks.
OITTSIDE KEEL (may be omitted if desired), 1 piece oak, 14 ft. by 1 in. by % in. thick.
DECK BE-MIS, 2 pieces oak or ash, S in. long, IVg in. wide, % in. thick.
SEAT FRAMES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 30 in. long, 3 in. wide, % in. thick.
SEAT FRAMES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 12 in. long, 2% in. wide, % in. thick.

PLANKING, cedar or pine, 100 sq. ft., Ys in. thick. Best secured by purchasing 25 ft. of 1-in. lumber,
and having same dressed on two sides to Va in. thiclc, and in lengths of 12, 14, and IG ft. This will
give the minimum amount of waste.
BACKBONE, 1 piece cedar or pine, any cheap stuff, 16 ft. long, 4 in. wide, % in. thick.
MOLDS. 1 piece any cheap stuff, 16 ft. long, 1 ft. wide, % in. thick.
RIBBANDS, 8 pieces any cheap stuff, 14 ft. long, % in. wide, % in. thick.
RIBS, 3G0 running feet, cedar, 1% in. wide, % in. thick.
BREAST HOOKS OR DECKS, 1 piece cedar or oak, 32 in. long, 0 in. wide, % in. thick.

1 lb. 2-in. wire nails to make form for keel.

1 lb. %'in. copper clout nails, for fastening ribs.
^ lb. 94 -in. copper clout nails, for fastening seat risings.
18 l^A-in. No. 8 brass screws, for fastening decks and deck beams.
24 1-in. No. G brass screws, for fastening seats.

4 lb. patent marine glue to cement canvas to planking.

3 oz. No. 2 ounce copper tacks to fasten canvas with.
11% yd. No. 6 ounce canvas for covering hull.

1 lb. % -in. copper tacks to fasten planking to ribs.

to give form to the craft, may be cut
fiom any cheap stufif, and this will
reduce the cost somewhat.

The Backbone and Molds

The first step in the construction of
a canoe is to get out the backbone and

t IP^ -V — 15- 8|

The Molds or Formf
The molds which give the form to
the hull are shown and numbered in
the order that they are fastened to the
backbone. To get out No. 1 mold draw
a rectangle on a sheet of stiff paper
exactly 13% in. long and 11 in. wide as

22i

-23}

.r*

-^^^^3i"-

-223

(^ ^ I5^9i; ^

FiS.I

The First Step in the Construction of a Canoe Is to Get Out the Backbone and the Molds, or Forms, Which
Give the Correct Dimensions and Shape of the Craft

the molds, or forms, which give the cor-
rect dimensions and shape of the craft.
The backbone may be made from any
inexpensive soft wood, such as cedar,
spruce, pine, or cypress ; and for mak-
ing it a piece of lumber, 16 ft. long, 4
in. wide, and "'§ in. thick, is used. By
referring to Fig. 1 it will be seen that
the upper edge measures exactly 15
ft. 834 in., and that the lower edge is
% in. longer, giving a total length of
15 ft. 91/4 in- The spaces numbered
from each end of the backbone toward
the center, as 1, 2, 3, and 4, indicate
where the corresponding molds are to
be placed. Seven molds are used and
as a canoe is tapered alike at both ends
the molds are numbered alike and are
made exactly to the same dimensions.
A good way to lay out the backbone
accurately is first to mark the total
length, making the lower edge 1 in.
longer than represented in Fig. 1, then
measure along the top edge exactly
231/4 in., and run a pencil line across.
From this line measure oft' % in. and
draw a second line across the width of
the board parallel with the first. This
space represents the thickness of the
mold, and it is marked 1. Measure off
2314 in. and make two parallel lines
as before and number it 2, measure
another 2314-in. length and number it
3. Begin measuring from the opposite
end of the board as in the first instance,
3214 in. and give it number 1, then
mark off 2 and 3 the same as for the
end already marked. The board is
then cut off at the bevel mark at each
end.

shown in Fig. 2. Run cross lines to
divide it in quarters and mark out the
center mortise for the backbone, which
is 5 in. deep and % in. wide. Measure
4 in. towarti each side from the outside
edge of the backbone mortise and
mark the mortises for receiving the
gunwales, which are 1% in. long and
% in. wide or deep. To obtain the cor-
rect bilge curve lay the rule on the
bottom line and measure off exactly
1 in. to the left of the center dividing
line and make dot 0. Measure 2% in.
farther to the left, to A ; turn the rule
at right angles and measure 2V8 in. in-
side the line and make dot 1. Measure
11/2 in. to the left of A, turn rule at
right angles and measure up the sheet
exactly 4% in. and make dot 2, which
will be 14 in. inside of the left vertical
line. On the center horizontal line,
which is 11^16 in. above dot 2, mark dot
3, YiQ in. from the left vertical line.
Measure off 2 in. above the horizontal
center line and make dot 4 on the ver-
tical line. The space between these
two dots is the widest part of the bilge
curve. Lay the rule on the bottom line
of the gunwale mortise and measure
off %6 in. from the outside line and
make dot 5. Pencil the angle from dot
to dot and draw in the full curve. Cut
out the half section, fold on the vertical
center line, and draw the right side.

Two complete No. 2 molds are re-
quired, but it is more convenient to
make each mold in two sections. Each
half is made lli/^ in. wide and 12 in.
deep, as shown in Fig. 3. First draw
a rectangle to these dimensions and

run cross lines to divide it into quar-
ters. Beginning at the upper right-
hand corner, mark the mortises for
gunwales and backbone, which, being
only one-half of the complete form,
will be YiQ in. wide and 3i/4 in. deep.
Laying the rule on the outside line im-
mediately below the mortise, draw a
second mortise for the keel, which is
% in. deep and IV2 in. wide in the half
section. Measure off 1% in. to tjie left
along the bottom line from keel mor-
tise and make dot 1. The dot 3 is made
by measuring 2Y2 iu- to the left of 1,
turning the rule at right angles at B
and measuring ^jg in. inside the line as
shown in the sketch. Make the dot 3
at a point 1% in. to the left of 2 and %
in. inside of the line. The dot 4 is 1%
in. from C and 1% in. inside of the line.
The dot 5 is I14 in. farther to the left
and 314 in. inside of the line. The dot
6 is ^s iu- from dot 5 and 43.4 in. inside
of the line, which will bring it % in.
inside of the left

vertical line. At
a point li/o in.

riG.2

al)0ve 6 make
dot 7 on the mar-
ginal line, and
dot 8, 11/4 in.
above it. Be-
tween the dots 7
and 8 is the wid-
est part of the
bilge curve. Dot
9 is exactly i/4
in. inside of the
vertical marginal line. These dots pro-
duce the angles, and it is only neces-
sary to trace in the full curve and cut
it out to make a pattern for the other
three half sections needed.

The molds No. 3, Fig. 4, are located
near the center of the canoe and are
made a trifle wider. Make a rectangle
14% in. long by 12 in. wide and draw
cross line dividing it into quarters.
Trace the half mortises for the back-
bone, gunwale, and keel from the No.
2 mold pattern. Lay the rule on the
bottom line and measure oft" I/2 in. to
the left from the center vertical line
and mark dot 1, which is the beginning
of the bilge curve. At a point 3% in.

to the left and % in. inside of the line
place dot 2, and 3 in. to the left of this
and 31/4 in. inside of the line place dot
3, then 1% in. farther to the left turn

C B KEEL

MORTISE

Fig, 3

It Is More Convenient to Make Each Mold in Two

Sections, as Two Complete Molds are Required

the rule at right angles and measure
up 4 in. inside of the line for dot 4,
which is i%6 in. inside of the left mar-
ginal line. At a point 3 in. above dot
4 make dot 5 on the marginal line and
21/s in. above it make dot 6. The space
between gives the widest part of the
bilge curve, with dot 7 exactly i/4 in.
inside of the marginal line, measuring
along the bottom of the gunwale mor-
tise. Trace the angle and from it run
the full curve and use this for a pattern
for cutting out the other molds.

Mold No. 4 is placed amidships in
the center of the canoe and only one
complete mold is required, as shown
in Fig. 5. To make a pattern draw a
rectangle 15 in. long and 12 in. wide,
and divide it into four equal parts as
before. From the No. 3 mold pattern
trace in the mortises for the gunwale,
backbone, and keel. Lay the rule on
the bottom outside line and measure

TOP
BACKBONE
MORTISE 1

GUN\A/ALE
MORTISE ]

Fig. 4

This Mold is Located near the Center of a Canoe and
is Made a Trifle Wider

2 in. from the center line to the left at
D and turn the rule at right angles and

measure off %6 in. inside of the bottom
line and make dot 1. Measure, from D,
ly^ in. to E, turn the rule up and meas-

TOP

j-GUNNA<AJ_E MORTISE

BACKBONE
MORTISE

KEEL
MORTISE I

E D

-15-

This Mold is Placed Amidships, in the Center of the
Caaoe> and Only One is Required

ure off % in. inside the line and make
dot 2. The dot 3 is 1% in. farther to
the left and 11/4 in. inside the line and
dot 4 is 1 in. to the left of 3 and 2 in.
inside of the line. The dot 5 is II/4 in.
to the left of dot 4, and 4 in. inside of
the bottom line, which will bring it
% in. inside of the left vertical side
line. At a point 2 in. above dot 5 make
dot 6 on the outside vertical line and
11/4 in. above it make dot 7. The space
between dots 6 and 1' gives the widest
part of the correct bilge curve. Ex-
actly 3% in. above dot 7 and % in.
inside of the vertical side line make dot
8, which marks the beginning of the
bilge curve above the water line and at
the gunwale mortise. The curve of
the canoe floor is quite flat, but not
exactly a straight line. Lay the rule
on the bottom line and measure up, on
the inner edge of the keel mortise, %

TOP 7

Straight-Grained Material must be Selected for the
Stems, as It Is Necessary to Bend Them to Shape

in., then 2% in. to the left make a mark,
F, 1/(5 in. inside the bottom line and a
pencil line drawn between them will
enable one to trace the correct curve.

Having cut out the pattern make two
wood forms exactly alike to have it
complete, as shown. After linishing
the seven complete molds, fasten them
securely together by nailing a couple
of battens across the halves.

The Ribbands and Stems

The ribbands are merely strips of
wood, % ill- wide, i^o in. thick, and 14
ft. long. Any cheap stuff will do be-
cause they are only used to give the
correct shape of the canoe curve while
building it. Six ribbands are neces-
sary, and it is best to use eight lengths
in order to make sure that the ribs are
bent at the required angle and that
both sides of the canoe are ribbed at
the one uniform curve. For the stems
ash or oak, 34 in- square, is used, and
straight-grained material must be se-
lected since it is necessary to bend
them to obtain the requisite curve.

To make the pattern for the stem
mold, shown in Fig. G, draw a rectangle,
24I/2 in. long by 13 in. wide, and divide
it into four equal parts. Lay the rule
on the left side at the upper corner, at
G, measure down 1 in. and make dot 1.
Lay the rule along the top horizontal
line and measure 2I/2 in. from G and
make dot 2, then draw a pencil line be-
tween them. From dot 1 mea'^ure
along this line exactly % in., and make
dot 3. From dot 3 measure straight
down 1% in. to H, turn at right angles
and measure off % in. to the right and
make dot 4, and make a pencil line
from 2 to 4 as shown. From dot 3 lay
the rule parallel with the top horizon-
tal line and measure off 9-^4 in., turn at
right angles and measure down on the
center line 214 in. and make dot 0.

Lay the rule at the upper right cor-
ner and measure down the vertical line
2% in., turn the rule at right angles
and measure off 3~(v. in. and make dot
G, From the upper right-hand corner
measure off l-lg in. and make dot 7 ex-
actly 1/4 in. inside the top horizontal
line. Again place the rule at the right-
hand corner, measure down the ver-
tical line exactly 2 in. and make dot 8.
Draw the line from dot 7 to S, and i/^
in. from dot 8, make dot 9. This gives

the correct contour of the stem where
it joins the splice of the keel.

The greatest curve and width of the

amidships. It is unnecessary to go to
the trouble of making a paper pattern
for this because the keel is merely ta-

WIDTM of i<E.E.l. - INCHES

-FEET STATIONS

-13-1 I

It Is Not Necessary to Make a Paper Pattern for the Keel, or Keelson, as the Piece is Merely Tapered
Uniformly from Center to Ends, and It can be Drawn Direct on the Board

Stem is at J on the lower line. To ob-
tain the correct curve begin at the up-
per left corner and measure from dot 1
down the vertical line 41^4 in. to K,
turn the rule at right angles and meas-
ure 11/4 in. inside the line, and make
dot 10. The dot 11 is placed by meas-
uring down from K exactly 314 in-
to L, when the rule is turned at right
angles and a length of 4 in. measured
oft' inside of the line. The dot 13 is
located in the same manner by measur-
ing 2% in. below L and running 8')4 in.
inside the line, as shown.

To finish the irregular curve of the
stem, measure from J at the center of
the lower horizontal line 3 in. to M,
turn the rule up and measure off i/> in.
inside of the line, and make dot 13.
The dot 14 is made by measuring off
4 in. from M to N and turning the rule
to a point 3 in. inside the line, as shown.
Then from point N measure to O li/4
in., and then measure up 4 in. to dot 15.
From the dot 14 to 15 run a straight
line. The dot 15 should be exactly 5
in. inside of the right vertical line.

Allowance for the beveled splice of
the stem to the inside keel must now be
made, and the beginning is to run a
light pencil line from dot 15 to dot 6.
From dot 15 measure up l/o in., turn
the rule at P and make dot 16 exactly
% in. to the left of the upright line.
From dot 16 a line is run to dot 8
which completes the angle of the curve.
The full curve is then easily traced in.

The Inside Keel, or Keelson

The inside keel, or keelson, is made
exactly 13 ft. 11 in. long and 3i/o in.
wide" in the center, which is, of course.

pered uniformly from center to ends,
and this may be drawn on the surface
of the board direct. The board being
13 ft. 11 in. long and Sy^ in. wide, it is
only necessary to make cross lines ex-
actly in the center both ways. From
the center measure 1 ft. toward one
end and make the width at that point
31,0 in. Measure 1 ft. farther along,
and again make the width 3I/2 in. as
before. Continue in this manner, mak-
ing the third station 3I/4 in. ; the
fourth, 2% in. ; the fifth, 2 in. ; the sixth,
1^/4 in., and the width at the ends i%6
in. This detail is well shown in Fig.
7. Bend the stem on the mold and
fasten it to the keel by means of a cou-
ple of 34-in. No. 10 screws at each end.

The Ribs and Gunwales

The ribs are best made of cedar, cut
from the same material as the plank-
ing. They are 1% in. wide and Vs in-

BACKBONE s

GUNWALE

PLANKINQ

INSIDE KEEL

^RIBBAND? ^OUTSIDE KEEL

Fig. 8
The Ribs are Fastened to the Outside of the Keelson
and are Curved under the Ribbands

thick. It is a good plan to saw out
several long lengths and cut them off
as required, the length being deter-
mined by measuring from gunwale to
gunwale around the curve over the rib-
bands. The ribs are put in under the

ribbands, and the thickness of the lat-
ter will allow sufficient wood for mak-
ing a good fit at the sheer line. The

PLANKING

Tht Bent Stem is Fastened to the Keel with Screws
at Both Ends

gunwales are two straight strips, 16
ft. long, % i"- wide, and i,-> in. thick.

Setting Up the Canoe

Having made all the material ready,
the work of setting up the canoe may
begin, and as it is built upside down,
place the backbone on boxes, about 1
ft. or more above the floor, and place
the molds in the numbered places on
the backbone, allowing the backbone
to rest upon the bottom of the mortises
cut in the top of the molds. Study
Figs. 8 and 9 before beginning the work
of setting up the hull.

True up the molds with a square and
fasten them firmly by toenailing them
to the backbone. Put the keelson in
place, allowing it to fit down in the
mortises cut in the molds to receive it.
Take particular care that the stems are
a good fit with the angle of the back-
bone at the ends, then fasten by nail-
ing through the top edge of the mold
into the stems. As shown in the stem-
mold drawing. Fig. 6, the splice where
the stem fits the keelson must be cut
out after it is bent into place. This is
easily done by marking around the out-
side edge of the stem and then bevel-
ing from the inside on each side. The
outer edge is left about Ys in. wide, and
the bevel runs out to the width of the
keel at the lower end.

The gunwales are next put on at the
sheer line, and fastened to the molds
and stems, leaving sufficient of the
nails exposed to make them easily
withdrawn later on. The four ribbands

are then put on each side, at equal dis-
tances apart, between the gunwale and
keel, or at 5-in. centers, measuring from
the keel up toward the gunwale. Fas-
ten the ribbands by driving ly^-in.
brads through them into the mold.
Measure off the keel for the ribs, which
should be put on 3 in. apart, measuring
from the centers. The ribs are fastened
to the outside of the keelson and are
curved under the ribbands. Fasten
each rib to the keel by means of two
%-in. copper clout nails, then spring
them into place and fasten to the gun-
wales. Put in all the ribs in the same
\vay, spacing them so that a rib will
be placed over each mold. When all
the ribs are put in, remove the rib-
bands, and begin planking the hull.

Planking the Canoe

As a canoe is planked with Ys-in.
cedar it is easily bent to the curve of
the ribs while cold, thus doing away
with the trouble of steaming. Unlike
heavier-planked craft the planking is
not rabbeted at the stem but is nailed
to the beveled surface. For strength
and to give a perfectly smooth skin on
which to lay the canvas, it is advisable
to run the planking the full length from
stem to stem. Begin by putting on
the garboard strake, which is the bot-
tom plank at the keel. Punch holes in
the plank with an awl, not directly in
line, but staggered from side to side
along the ribs. This will prevent the
possibility of splitting. Drive in the
copper clout nails while the plank is
kept in place with a clamp to facilitate

h — 6-

cane: or canvas

FILLING

■29-

SEAT
Fig. 10

The Seat Frame may be Caned, or a Canvas Seat
Tacked On, as Preferred

the work. Hold a clinch iron, or any
handy piece of iron, inside and clinch
the nails so that the ends are well im-

bedded in the rib on the inside. It is
a simple matter to fit each plank in
place, because they are merely a close
fit at the edge, butted together with-
out beveling. The number of planks
required will depend upon the width,
and while wider strips may be used,
planking cut to the width of 3 in. is
generally employed. In any case the
top plank or sheer strake should be
level with the gunwale from one stem
to the other. When the hull is com-
pletely planked, cut off the ends of the
planking to the curve of the stems and
gunwales. The backbone and molds
may now be taken out by sawing the
backbone in two. Tack a couple of
strips across the gunwales to keep the
hull from sagging out of shape, then
drive the nails over the sections the
molds occupied, since these forms pre-
vented doing this work before.

Seat Risings and Seats

The seat risings are simply straight
sticks, % in. square, and are fastened
on the inside for the seats to rest upon.
They are about 4 in. below the gun-
wale. Oak or ash is the best material,
and the length is 1-i ft. To fasten in
place, first bore a small hole and then
nail through the planking and ribs, and
clinch on the inside of the rising.

The seat frame is fashioned as shown
in Fig. 10, and may be caned, or a
canvas seat tacked on, as preferred.
Many canoeists prefer to kneel, in
which case a seat bar, about 4 or 5 in.
wide, is run athwartships for the pad-
dler's back and thighs to rest against
while paddling.

The Deck ^eams and Decks

The deck beams are merely straight
pieces, about 8 in. long, lYs in. wide,
and % in. thick. These are notched at
the ends as shown in Fig. 11, so that
they will come up and wedge against
the sides of the gunwales about i/^ in.
Put them in by boring a hole through
the gunwale and fasten with a li4-in.
No. 10 screw at each end. Two are re-
quired, one at each end.

The deck, or breast, hooks are made
16 in. long by 8 in. wide and of the

shape shown in Fig. 13. To fasten
them in place bore three holes through
the deck into the deck beam and se-

DECK BEIAM
Fi&.ll

FiG.12

The Shape of the Deck or Breast Hooks and the

Beams That Support Them

cure them with three 114-in. No. 10
screws. Bore three holes along the
gunwale on each side and turn three
1^-in. No. 10 screws into the deck.

A Center Thwart

To strengthen and stiffen the hull a
center thwart, or cross bar, should be
run across the canoe amidships. A
piece of oak or ash, % in. thick and
tapering from 2 in. in the center to 1
in. at the ends, should be screwed
to the lower side of the gunwale.
Although not exactly essential, it is a
good plan to run another thwart across
the canoe just back of the forward seat,
and a rear thwart some 3 ft. forward of
the rear seat, or paddling bar. This
will make the craft very stiff when a
heavy load is carried, and likewise pre-
vent the lightly constructed hull from

F10.13

The Manner of Shaping the Ends of the Canvas to
Fit over the Canoe Ends

sagging, or "hogging," when stored for
the winter.

Applying the Canvas

The canvas is put on with marine
glue, the black kind being the best for

this particular purpose. Before gluing
the canvas, lay it smoothly on the hull
and trim so that it will fold nicely at
the stems, as shown in Fig. 13. Melt
the glue in a can over a moderately hot
fire and spread it on one side of the
canvas with a stif¥ brush. Of course,
the glue will be too thick to spread
evenly, but be sure to apply it as evenly
as possible, and touch every bit of the
canvas with a fairly heavy coating of
glue. Lay the glued canvas in place,
and iron with a moderately hot flatiron.
This melts the glue, and the canvas will
adhere smoothly to the planking. Fin-
ish by tacking the edge of the canvas
along the edge of the gunwales, and
fold the canvas as smoothly as possi-
ble at the stem, and tack in place, run-
ning the line of tacks exactly down
the center line of the stem.

Fenders or Covering Strips

Fenders of i/o-in. round molding may
be tacked on to cover the edge of the
canvas, or a strip, 1 in. wide, may be
sawed from the same material as the
planking and tacked to cover the edge
by using Ii4-Jn- brads every 3 or 3 in.
along the edge.

Stem Bands and Outside Keel

The stem bands may be made from
wood if desired and bent to shape, but
the brass oval stem or bang iron, % in.
wide, makes a stronger and better fin-
ish. The wood stem band should be
about % in. square, and rounded on the
outside. Put this on with li/4-in. brads
and fasten the brass band with %-in.
screws.

The outside keel may or may not be
used, according to preference. It
strengthens the canoe to a certain ex-
tent and keeps the bottom from many
a scratch while pulling out. The usual
outside keel is about 1 in. wide and i/o
in. thick, of oak or ash, and tapered at
the stems to the width of the stem
bands, which are screwed on over it.
The most serviceable keel is about SVa
in. wide in the center, and tapers to fit
the bands at either end. When made
of %-in. oak, or ash, it makes a splen-
did protection for the bottom of the

hull, especially when the craft is used
in rocky waters. Unlike the narrow
keel, the flat keel makes the canoe
easier to turn with the paddle, but any
form of keel will add several pounds to
the weight of the craft and is for this
reason often omitted.

Painting the Canoe

The canvas should be given a coat of
shellac before the paint is applied. This
makes it waterproof. Then four coats
of paint are applied to fill the fibers of
the canvas. To make a smooth finish-
ing coat, rub down the second and third
coats with fine sandpaper. The entire
woodwork of the canoe should be fin-
ished with three coats of good-quality
outside spar varnish.

A slatted grating, made of soft-pine
lattice stufif, about V/g in. wide and
1% in. thick, will afford protection to
the bottom of the canoe. For summer
use this is desirable, but may be
omitted on long trips and when soft
footwear is worn. The grating should
not be fastened to the ribs, but the
parallel strips screwed, or nailed, to
cross strips, curved to fit the contour
of the canoe's bottom. The grating
should extend from well under the
stern seat up to the stem splice in the
bow, and should be nicely tapered to
make a neat appearance. By fastening
two or three little blocks of wood so
that they will extend up between the
slats, one may screw small brass but-
tons into these blocks to keep the slat-
ted floor in place, thus making it easily
removable when washing out the canoe.

A Ring-and-Egg Trick

This trick consists in borrowing a
ring and wrapping it in a handkerchief
from which it is made to disappear, to
be found in an egg, taken from a num-
ber in a plate.

Obtain a wedding ring and sew it
into one corner of a handkerchief.
After borrowing a ring, pretend to
wrap it in the center of the hand-
kerchief, but instead wrap up the one
concealed in the corner, retaining the
borrowed one in the hand. Before

beginning the performance, place in
the bottom of an egg cup a small
quantity of soft wax. When getting
the cup, slip the borrowed ring into
the wax in an upright position. An
egg is then chosen by anyone in the
audience. This is placed in the egg
cup, the ring in the bottom being
pressed into the shell. With a button
hook break the top of the shell and fish
out the ring. The handkerchief is then
shaken out to show that the ring has
vanished.

Lock for Gasoline Tank on a Launch

Having trouble by thefts of gasoline
from the tank in my launch, I made
the following device to prevent them,
which proved very effective. A strap
hinge, about 12 in. long, was procured,
and on one wing, near the outer end, I
fastened a staple made of a large nail,
and near the center a large hole was
drilled to fit over the pipe, or opening,
to the tank. The other wing of the
hinge was bent to the shape shoWn, and
an oak block was fastened in the bend
with wood screws. A hole was bored
in the block to fit over the end of the
pipe. A slot was cut in the same wing
at the end to receive the staple. In
turning the wing over to cover the
pipe end, the staple was brought into
position for a padlock. After locking
the device, most of the screws are cov-

PIPE INLET TO
TANK

Filler-Pipe Cover Lock to Prevent the Theft of
Gasoline from a Motorboat

ered so that it is almost impossible to
remove them without taking off the
lock. — Contributed by Stephen H.
Freeman, Klamath Falls, Oregon.

A Quick-Acting Bench Vise

For those who desire a quick-acting
vise and cannot afford the price of a
manufactured one, I designed the vise

A Quick-Acting Vise Made of Hard Wood for the
Home Worker's Bench

shown in the illustration. A detail is
given of each part, with dimensions, so
that it is not difficult to make it from
hard wood. The roll A binds the vise
so that it remains rigid, while the cam
in front gives the necessary play, to
release or tighten as preferred. The
clamp jaw B is pivoted so that it
swings loose, thus making it fit any
surface that may not be parallel with
its opposite side. In releasing the
stock, the cam is first turned, and then
the front part of the vise is pulled up
to relieve the roll A. The front jaw
can be then moved back and forth to
take stock of any size desired. As soon
as the stock is placed, the roll A falls
into place and clamps the jaw arm C. —
Contributed by J. C. Hansen, May-
wood, 111.

CA practical vacuum will raise water
30 feet.

SAILING and its recreations are
afforded the owner of an open
paddling canoe, for a satisfactory-
sailing rig may be provided at small
cost. A regulation sailing outfit may
be purchased, but it is rather costly,
and if the canoeist cannot use a sail
frequently, purchasing an outfit is un-
duly expensive. A sailing rig may be
constructed even by one of only mod-
erate skill, who will devote a few hours
to it. The specifications given, if care-
fully followed, will enable one to make
a sailing rig as serviceable as a ready-
made outfit, and at about one-half the
cost.

The specifications and list of mate-
rial for a sailing outfit suitable for a
16-ft. open canoe are as follows:

1 piece bamboo, lyi in. in diameter, 6 ft. 10 in.

long, for mast.

2 pieces bamboo fishing rod, 1 in, at butTt, 10 ft.

long.
1 piece, cedar or white pine, 5 ft. long, 4 in. wide,
and ?8 in. thick, for leeboard thwart. _

3 pieces, cedar or pine, 28 in. long. 10 in, wide,

and ^8 in, thick, for mast thwart.
1 piece, cedar or pine, Z1V2 in. long, 3V^ in, wide,
and H in. thick, for mast thwart,^

1 piece, cedar or pine, 5 in. long, 2^ in. wide, and

1 in. thick, for mast step.
8 yd. unbleached cotton sheeting. 1 yd. wide, for

making sail.
.SO ft. H-in. cotton rope, for halyard and main sheet.

4 brass lantern-board hooks, for clamping mast

thwart and leeboard thwart to canoe.

2 brass stove bolts, 3 in. long and Vie in, diameter,

with washers and thumb nuts, for clamping
leeboards at desired angle.
1 brass single-boom jaw for canoe. 2 in. long, for
keeping boom on mast.

3 brass screw eyes, 154 in. long with J^-in. eye,

one for halyard, two for spars.
1 brass split ring, VA in., for fastenmg ends of

spars together.
1 brass "S" hook, 154 in. long, for fastenmg ends

of spars.

In converting the paddling canoe for
sailing, it is desirable that it be un-
marred, as far as possible. The rig
described represents the result of ex-
periments with various arrangements,
and has been found to be safe and con-

Stillman Taylor
PART II

the Open Paddling Canoe

venient. The original outfit has been
in use for si.x years and will still serve
for some time.

Ihe lateen rig is best for an open
canoe, because a shorter mast is re-
quired for the same sail area. An open
craft is less suited for carrying sail
than one which is decked fore, aft, and
amidships. It is not safe to rig a canoe
too heavily, and the rig described has
been found to be well proportioned.

Bamboo is best for the mast, be-
cause it is lighter and tougher than a
solid wood spar of the same dimen-
sions, and is readily procured. Deal-
ers in rugs use bamboo of li-i to 2-in.
diameter on which to roll carpets, and
it may usually be purchased of them.

Cut the bamboo to a length of G ft.
10 in., and whittle a wooden plug,
about 3 in. long, tapering it so that
it will wedge firmly inside, taking care
not to split the cane. Bore a small
hole through the cane 2 in. from the
top, plug it and fix a screw eye
into the plug. Drive small brads
through the cane into the plug to pre-
vent the former from splitting. A
brass ferrule fitted over the end of the
bamboo will make a strong and neat
finish.

The sail is made in the form of a
triangle and measures 9 ft. on each
side. It is best to have it sewed on a
machine. The sail is bighted with
parallel strips, or folds, ^ in. wide,
spaced 6 in. apart, as shown at the left
in the illustration. First cut the can-
vas to the approximate size and shape
by laying the spars over it and mark-
ing the outline with a pencil. Next
sew the separate widths together, lap-

Sailing and Its Recreations are Afforded the Owner of an Open
Paddling Canoe, for a Satisfactory Sailing Rig may be Provided
at Small Cost. The Canoe Is Practically Unmarred, yet the
Sailing Outfit is Installed Substantially and may be Removed
Quickly. The Canoe Is Shown Running Nearly Free— before the
Wind— and the Leeboards are Therefore Only Partly Submerged

ping one edge over the other about I/2
in., and sewing close to both edges.
The bights or folds run at an angle and
parallel with the loose ends of the
leech of the sail. The sail should then
be reinforced at the corners by sewing
segments of cloth at these points.
Along the edges which are to be lashed
to the spars, fold over a strip of can-
vas and sew it to make a 1-in. hem.
Run a ^/o-in. tape into the fold along
the leech while sewing the hem. This
tape is fastened to the spar at each
end, to take up the slack caused by
the stretching of the sail after use,
thus preventing that bugbear of sailors
- — a flapping leech.

The mast thwart is made as shown
at the right in the illustration, and has
a hole cut in the center to fit the mast.
It is also provided with two lantern-
board hooks, one at each end, with
which to clamp the thwart to the gun-
wales. The mast is supported at the
bottom by means of the mast step,
which is a block of wood, shaped as
shown to give a neat appearance. It
is fastened to the grating, or to the
ribs if no grating is used.

The leeboard thwart is also shown
in the sketch, at the right. The short
upright ends are set at an angle so that
they conform to the curve of the canoe
and wedge the thwart into place im-
mediately aft of the mast. The ends
are grooved to fit the thwart and fas-
tened with screws. A carriage bolt is
fitted through each end piece and pro-
vided with a wing nut, which holds the
leeboard in place on each side. The
leeboards may thus be adjusted at the
desired angle by fixing them with
wing nuts. No dimensions are given,
for it is obvious that they will vary on
different styles and sizes of canoes. A
finish in keeping with that of the canoe
sl'ould be applied. Smooth all the
work as carefully as possible with
sharp tools and sandpaper it lightly.
Three coats of spar varnish will give
a satisfactory finish.

The sail is hoisted by running the
halyard through the screw eye at the
top of the mast, until the gaf¥ spar is
close to the mast top, as illustrated.

The boom jaw is fastened on the
boom, with the open end 18 in. from
the forward end of the boom. This
will permit the forefoot of the sail to
extend forward of the mast. By tying
the halyard at various points along the
gafif, the point of balance may be
found. For the sake of safety the hal-
yard should not be tied to the forward
thwart, but run under it to the stern,
within easy reach of the canoeist. The
main sheet should never be made fast,
but the rope merel}^ looped around the
thwart and held in the hand or beneath
the foot, so that it may be released
quickly if a puff of wind should strike
the sail.

Steering is done with a paddle. This
method is more convenient than a rud-
der where the single sail is used. The
paddle is always used on the lee side —
away from the wind — and the wake
keeps the blade close to the side of the
canoe, without much effort on the part
of the person guiding it. When turn-
ing about make the regular paddling
stroke, but finish it by thrusting the
blade of the paddle away from the
canoe. This will tend to keep the
canoe in its course, and the paddle will
not be drawn across the wake, which
would affect the headway of the craft.

The lower the weight is placed in a
canoe, or boat, the greater will be its
stabilit3^ Hence, in sailing a canoe, sit
on the floor of the craft, and when
turning about, turn against the wind
and not with it. The experienced ca-
noeist can shift his course readily, but
the novice must be cautious, even in a
moderate breeze. It would be well to
sail in shallow water and to wear only
bathing costume when learning to sail
a canoe. When tacking and sailing
close-hauled the leeboard is the most
effective, but as the boards are thin
both may be kept down without great-
ly reducing the speed. When running
before the wind both boards may be
raised to give the greatest speed.

CPaint may be readily removed from
windows by applying a cloth dipped
in hot vinegar or acetic acid. This ap-
plied to brushes will soften them.

ASTANCHLY built canoe of suffi-
cient length and beam may be
converted into a light, serviceable,
and convenient power boat by the in-
stallation of a light-weight motor of
about 2 hp. While the craft thus be-
comes less available for shallow wa-
ters and cannot be used so readily on
trips where portages are necessary,
a power canoe has advantages in that
longer trips may be undertaken with
less regard for weather conditions.
Greater speed and the fact that phys-
ical power need not be expended also
increase the value and range of opera-
tions of such a craft.

Unless a motor of extremely light
weight is procured, a canoe of frail
construction and less than 16 ft. long
is not likely to stand the jar of the
driving mechanism. The canoe illus-
trated in the page plate is 18 ft. long,
of 36-in. beam, and strongly planked,
decked, and braced. A canoe of even
broader beam would tend to give more
stability in rough water, and if it is de-
sired to transport heavy camping packs,
or other material, in the craft, this fac-
tor should be observed particularly.
Likewise, the depth and draft must be
considered, as the carrying capacity
and seaworthiness of a canoe depend
in part on these factors. The fitting cf
the various parts of the mechanism and
accessories must be done with the aim
of balancing the load evenly. If prop-
erly disposed, the weight of these parts
should tend to lower the center of grav-
ity of the canoe, thus rendering it more
stable.

The actual work of installing the
motor and fittings should be preceded

fi\j Sfillman Taylor
PART III

Fitting a Motor into a Paddling Canoe

by careful planning and the making
of a full-size diagram of the stern
portion of the canoe as rebuilt. Too
much care cannot be taken in this work,
as, if it is neglected, the craft may be
rendered unsafe, or the motor and fit-
tings may not operate satisfactorily.
The motor should be set in the stern,
as shown in the illustration, as this will
permit the use of a minimum of shaft-
ing and other fittings which must be
accommodated. The exact location of
the motor may vary with canoes and
engines of different types. This should
be tested out by placing the motor in
the canoe and noting the effect on its
balance in the water. For a canoe of
the dimensions indicated, and a light-
weight motor, 0 ft. from the stern is
a satisfactory position. The motor
should be placed as low in the canoe
as possible, allowing the flywheel and
crank case sufficient clearance below.

A convenient method of operation is
as follows : Place the canoe on boxes,
or sawhorses, taking care that it is
properly supported about 2 ft. from the
ground, or floor. Take measurements
directly from the canoe, or part, to be
fitted, whenever convenient. Procure
two sheets of paper, 30 in. wide and
7 ft. long; mark one "diagram" and
the other "templates," and use the
former for the full-size detail and the
other for the making of templates for
curved or irregular parts.

Begin the diagram by drawing the
base line AB, Fig. 3. This is the lower
line of the engine bed and the upper
surface of the ribs. Draw the line CD
perpendicular to the base line, and 18
in. from the left end of the sheet. The

point C is the center of the stern end
of the driving shaft. The dimensions
of parts are not given, except in spe-
cial instances, since they must be ob-
tained from the particular canoe and
other parts entering into the construc-
tion. Indicate the layer of ribs E, the
planking F, and the keel G. Using
the template sheet, cut a template or
pattern for the curved stern. This
may be readily and accurately done by
fixing a straightedge to the keel and
permitting it to extend to A. Rest the
long edge of the sheet on the straight-
edge when fitting the template to the
curve. Use the template as a guide in
marking the curve on the diagram, as
at HJ. The curve K, of the stern deck-
ing, may be indicated similarly.

Determine the distance the motor is
to be set from the stern and indicate
it by the perpendicular line L. Meas-
uring from the base line, indicate the
height of the center of the motor shaft
from the floor, as at M. This should be
made as low as possible, permitting
sufficient clearance for the flywheel
and the crank case. Draw a straight
line from C to M, which will thus in-
dicate the center line of the driving
shaft. This line is fundamental in de-
termining the dimensions and placing
of certain parts and fittings, and should
be established with extreme care. The
size and exact position of the engine
bed N may now be indicated. Its di-
mensions, given in detail in the per-
spective sketch. Fig. 5, are suggestive
only. They may be varied in order to
provide proper bearing on the floor,
and so that the bolts holding the bed
may pass through ribs. The cross
brace at the forward end is important,
and should be fitted carefully over a
rib. The upper line of the engine bed
must not be confounded with the cen-
ter line of the shaft, for in many en-
gines they are on a horizontal line
when viewed from the forward end,
}'et not necessarily so. The slant of
the engine bed must be made accu-
rately, as any deflection from the angle
of the center line of the shaft will dis-
arrange the installation.

The shaft log O may next be indi-

cated and a template made for use in
guiding the bit when boring the hole
for the shaft through it. The template
used for the curve HJ may be altered
by drawing the shaft log on it at the
proper place. The point P, from which
the bit is to be started when the shaft
log is fixed into place, should be in-
dicated and the center line of the shaft,
extended to O, may then be used as a
guide for the bit. If the homemade
type of bearing R is used, it should
be indicated on the diagram. A metal
bearing may be made, or a suitable
one obtained from dealers in marine
hardware. In the latter case it will
probably be necessary to block up the
bottom of the canoe in order to provide
a flat, horizontal bearing surface for
the bearing flange.

The rudder and other parts, which
are not directly connected with the
motive-power unit, may be indicated
in detail on the diagram or be made
from sketches of a smaller scale. Pa-
per patterns, made full size, of?er a
convenient method of outlining the
parts of the engine bed, the rudder, and
other irregular pieces. When the dia-
gram is complete, measurements may
be transferred directly from it without
reducing them to figures, and, wherever
possible, parts should be fitted to it.

The shaft log, shaft bearing, and en-
gine bed may be made of oak, or other
strong hard wood. It will be found
desirable to have the engine bed com-
plete before an attempt is made to fit
the shaft and its connections. It is made
of l^^-j-in. stock, bolted together with
lag screws and fixed firmly into the
canoe with bolts. The heads of the
bolts should be provided with cotton
and red-lead packing, and care should
be taken that the bolts pass through
ribs.

The shaft log should be fixed into
place before it is bored. Bolts may
be passed through it and fastened on
the inside if there is room for drawing
up the nuts in the stern. Large screws
may be used to aid in the fastening
and smaller screws may be used from
the inside. The lower rudder support
will also aid in holding the log in place.

Fio.5
EMGINE BED

A Light-weight, Two-Horsepower Motor Installed in a Stanch 18-Foot Canoe will Increase the Range
and Utility of Such a Craft; the Construction Shown Is Simple and within the Capabilities of a Careful
Novice of Fair Mechanical Skill. A View of the Stern from Above is Shown in Fig. 1. The Engine is
Shown Mounted on the Engine Bed. and near the Stern the Shaft Block is Shown. A Partial Sectional
View is Shown in Fig. 2. the Relation of the Engine and Bed, Shaft and Fittings, Shaft Block, Shaft
Log. and Rudder are Shown. The Construction Diagram, Fig. 3, is Described in Detail in the Text. A
Larger-Scale View and a Section of the Shaft Block are Indicated in Fig. 4, and Fig. 5 Illustrates the
Engine Bed with Dimensions and Fastening Holes

and the iron straps S, Fig. 3, will insure
its rigidity. This is an important point
in the construction, as if the log is not
fixed positively, the thrashing of the
propeller will soon loosen it.

A detail of the shaft bearing R is
shown in Fig. 4. The hole to receive
the shaft must be bored accurately, and
the use of the template, as with the
boring of the shaft log, is advisable.
Flanged metal bearings are provided to
take up the wear in the bearing block.
The method of fastening the block, as
shown in the detail view, insures a
rigid bearing with a minimum of holes
through the bottom of the canoe. A
U-bolt, T, binds tlie double angle brace
U and the block firmly to the keel.
The angles of the brace are fixed into
the sides of the canoe with bolts, and
a bolt at the stern end of the block
supports it further. The block should
be placed so that it will bear on three
ribs and must be fitted to the curve
of the canoe.

The rudder is made of sheet metal
supported on a rod or pipe. Its gen-
eral dimensions are shown in Fig. 3.
The fan of the rudder is riveted to its
supports and rests in a bearing strip
of i/i hy 1-in. strap iron, which is
shaped as a guard for the propeller.
The upper bearing of the rudder post is
formed from a strip of iron, bolted to
the stern, and the upper guide bar, to
which the ropes are attached, is cut
from an iron strip.

The propeller is 8 in. in diameter,
but may be installed of a size suitable
to the power, speed, and type of the
motor used. The stuffing box V, Fig.
3, the bearings for the bearing block
R, the intake strainer W, the exhaust
outlet X, Fig. 1, and the shaft coupling
Y are all of manufactured types that
may be purchased of marine-supply
houses.

The intake strainer W is placed in
the bottom directly below the pump
Z. The exhaust outlet X is placed
above the water line, and a muffler
should be installed to avoid noise from
the exhaust explosions. The exhaust
may be conducted under water or to a
point near the stern. No indication is

given for the placing of the gasoline
tank, the supply pipes, electrical-energy
source, and wiring. The tank may be
placed in the stern of the canoe high
enough to provide a good flow. A
magneto may be used to give current
for the sparking circuit, or batteries
may be provided. They may be placed
at any point convenient, and should be
incased in a waterproof container.

In assembling the parts care must
be taken not to wrench the shaft or
other pieces out of line, and in general,
it is well to fix nonadjustable parts
solidly when they are fitted into place.
This applies particularly to the engine
bed and the shaft log. The bearing
block may be adjusted vertically b}'
adding packing, or by reducing the
lower surface. The rudder and its fit-
tings may be made in regular course,
but should not be fitted until the power
unit and driving mechanism is in place
finally. The propeller may be pro-
tected from possible injury by laying
it aside until needed. All the openings
in the hull through which bolts or other
fastenings are placed should be packed
with red lead or other waterproof pack-
ing. The working parts and finished
metal surfaces should be oiled or
greased thoroughly as the parts are as-
sembled, and the unfinished metal
parts painted with red lead. This will
protect them from moisture and aid in
the smooth operation of the mechan- j
ism. '

How to Make a Fluorescent Screen

Many experimenters have occasion
to use a fluorescent screen, particularly
those interested in X-ray work. Such
a device is quite expensive if pur-
chased, and may be made as follows :

Mix 1 oz. each of common salt, so-
dium tungstate, and calcium chloride.
Place the mixture in a crucible and J
heat it dull red in a coal fire, for several]
hours. It will melt into a clear liquid, I
and should then be removed and per-|
mitted to cool. The liquid will crys-
tallize into a hard glasslike mass.
Break this out of the crucible and crush I
it into small pieces. Put them into a I

jar of clear water. The sodium chlo-
ride resulting from the chemical change
by heating, will gradually dissolve and
the calcium tungstate will fall to the
bottom in fine crystals. Wash this
precipitate until all trace of the salt
disappears ; then pour the crystals
upon a sheet of filter or blotting paper
to dry. After drying, place them in a
mortar and grind them to a fine pow-
der, when they will be ready for use.

To make the screen proper, procure
a piece of thin white cardboard of the
size desired. The calendered board
known as three-ply is satisfactory.
Paint the cardboard on one side with a
thick solution of gum arable in water,
or better still, with celluloid dissolved
in amyl acetate. Permit the gum to be-
come "tacky" before dusting with the
chemical. The latter process requires
care, to produce an even layer on the
cardboard, and it is advisable to prac-
tice with ordinary salt before attempt-
ing it on the cardboard for the screen.
The calcium tungstate should be
placed in a dry jar, and a piece of fine
muslin fixed over the mouth of it. The
chemical may be dusted over the sur-
face with this sieve jar.

Shake oflf the superfluous crystals
and permit the screen to dry thor-
oughly. Fasten a piece of mica, or
sheet celluloid, over the sensitized sur-
face to prevent damage to it. Mount
the sensitized cardboard in a wooden
frame of suitable size and arrange' a
hood around its edges to cut out un-
necessary light. The sensitive side of
the screen is, of course, held toward the
observer when the apparatus is used. —
Contributed by Chester Keene, Ho-
boken, N. J.

Preventing Wire Mesh from Rising
between Fence Posts

Fences which inclose pastures for
hogs, or other smaller animals, are
usually stretched to give rigidity and
strength. Often the adjustment of the
wire, after being put into place, causes
it to rise from the ground between the
fence posts, permitting the animals to
escape. An effective method of hold-

ing the wire close to the ground is
shown in the sketch. A peg, notched
near its upper end, is driven into the
ground so that the lower edge of the

wire mesh is held fast in the notch. —
Contributed by O. B. Laurent, New-
Roads, La.

Jig-Saw Table for Vise

Those wha have occasional work to
be done with a jig saw will find the
simple device shown in the sketch con-
venient. It provides a table for saw-
ing light work. By holding it in a vise,
as shown, a rigid support may be had.
The table is made of a rectangular
piece of %-m. wood, 8 in. wide and 10
in. long. At one end, a strip, 1 in.

The Jig-Saw Table Provides a Rigid Support for
Light Fretwork

square, is attached for clamping in the
vise. The other end is notched to pro-
vide a place for the saw while in use.
— Contributed by Victor A. Rettich,
New York, N. Y.

An Emergency Dark-Room Light

The traveling man who "lives in a
suitcase" and at the same time wishes
to enjoy the
pleasures of ama-
teur photo g-
raphy sometimes
experiences diffi-
culty in develop-
ing films in a
hotel room. Soup
plates borrowed
from the stew-
ard, or even the
bowl pitcher and
the ice -water
pitcher in the room, can be used for
development, but it is very hard to
improvise a ruby lamp. My emer-
gency lamp is a small vest-pocket
flash lamp over which two yellow en-
velopes, one inside of the other, are
slipped, as shown. The lower edges
are cut perfecth' square and rest on
the table, or shelf, in the closet, and
all white light is excluded. At night,
the shades may be drawn, and a yellow-
paper sack may be tied around the
electric light. — Contributed by J. L.
Pinkston, Granite Hill, Ga.

The

— Contributed
Lewiston, Me.

An Ice Creeper

illustration shows a one-piece
ice creeper for
the heel of a
boot or shoe. It
is made from
sheet steel with
the arms bent up
to receive a strap
for buckling it in
place on the boot
heel. The zigzag
cuts in the bot-
tom part are
turned down for
engaging the ice.
Chas. S. Snell,

Waterproofing for Fish Lines

Dissolve lo oz. of orange shellac in
I'o pt. of alcohol, and add 1 teaspoonful
of Venice turpentine, the same quan-
tity of raw linseed oil, and 2 oz. tinc-
ture of benzoin. Shake well, and set
in a varnish can in hot water.

Soak the coiled line in the varnish
for two hours, then hang it up to dry.
Thin the varnish with alcohol, and re-
peat the dipping. When the line is
dry, rub it down well with a wool rag
greased with tallow. Silk lines treated
in this manner are pliable, and the
fibers of the silk are so united by the
varnish that the strength of the line
is almost doubled.

Making Chest Lock More Secure

As a rule, ordinary chest locks can-
not be relied upon, since almost any
kind of a similar
key will unlock
them. I found a
good remedy by
taking out the
pin on which the
key fits, and
making a new
one twice as long
as the one re-
moved, then
drilling a hole in
the ke}'' deep enough to fit over the _
new pin. In case the pin extends too ■
far, a piece of wood block, with a hole ■
in it to admit the key, can be fastened
over it to prevent bending the pin. No
ordinary key will pass on the pin far
enough to turn the lock. — Contributed
by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.

CIn machine work a way must be pro-
vided for removing dowel pins before
the}' are driven in place.

Driving Screws in Hard Wood

Keep the supply of screws in a boxd
containing a small amount of powdered!
soapstone. Shake the box occasionally,]
and the screws will be dusted with the
powder, which acts as a lubricant. ThisI
is a much cleaner and more convenient
method than the ordinary one of rub-i
bing each screw on a bar of soap before
driving it in hard wood.

PART I—

Kinds of Canoes

THE charm of the birchen canoe
has long been sung in verse and
prose, and while the bark that the
Indian used has been supplanted by
a more perfect type of modern manu-
facture, the popularity of this, the most
graceful of water craft, has increased
with years, until today we find the
canoe the choice of thousands of rec-
reation seekers who paddle about in
park lakes and quiet streams, or spend
their vacations in cruising down rivers
and other attractive waterways — some-
times within the environs of towns and
villages, and again dipping paddles in
the wilderness streams of the far
north. True, the modern canoe is a
distinct product of the twentieth cen-
tury, and while it is so largely used at
summer resorts, it nevertheless re-
tains all the good points of the old,
while embodying numerous improve-
ments which fit it even better for wil-
derness travel than the Indian model
after which it was patterned. The
noteworthy increase in the number of
canoeists in the past dozen years is
good evidence that this natty craft is
fast coming into its own, and as more
and more outdoor men and women
understand its possibilities and limita-
tions and become proficient in handling
it, the long-rooted fear and distrust
with which the uninformed public re-
gard the canoe, will pass away. As a
matter of fact, accidents ever follow

in the wake of ignorance and careless-
ness, and while there are very few ex-
pert gunners injured by firearms, and
still fewer experienced canoeists
drowned, there are numerous sad acci-
dents constantly occurring to the reck-
less and foolhardy, who do not knov/
how to handle a weapon, nor under-
stand the first thing about paddling a
canoe. Let us consider then, the prac-
tical side of the subject, the choice of
a suitable canoe and the knack of
handling it in a safe and efficient
manner.

If one would experience in full
measure the many-sided charm of
paddling, he should get a good canoe.
Unlike other and heavier water craft,
the canoe is a lightly balanced and
responsive conveyance, which may be
cranky and dangerous, or safe and
stable, according to the model, the skill
of the builder, and the dexterity of the
paddler. There are canoes and canoes,
of varying models and sizes, and con-
structed of many materials, and while
all may serve as a means of getting
about in the water, the paddling quali-
ties include numerous little idiosyn-
crasies which serve to differentiate
canoes as well as men. In fact, this
light and graceful craft may be prop-
erly viewed as the highest type of boat
building, since it must be fashioned
strong but light ; it must be steadj
when going light; capable of carrying

comparatively heavy loads ; draw little
water, and it must be honestly con-
structed of good material to stand up
under the hard usage which every
canoe is subjected to, whether used for
summer paddling, or up on long hunt-
ing and shooting trips.

Three types of canoes are in common
use by experienced canoeists, the birch-
bark, the all-wood, and the canvas-
covered cedar canoe. The birch-bark,
by reason of its rougher workmanship,
is slow under the paddle, is easily in-
jured, and it grows heavier and more
difficult to handle ever}- time it is used.
The all-wood canoe is most expensive
to buy, and though swift under the
paddle, is too easily injured and too
difficult to repair for rough and ready
use. The cedar-planked canoe which
is covered with filled and painted can-
vas is for many reasons the best all-
around craft — attractive enough for
park use, and stout enough for use in
rapid water and for cruising in north-
ern lakes and rivers.

How to Select a Birch-Bark Canoe

The Indian-made birch-bark canoe
costs about $1 a foot and is fashioned
of birch bark over an ash, or spruce,
frame. The bark is not nailed to the
frame, but is sewed together with
boiled spruce, or tamarack, roots, split
to a suitable size. To give the proper
shape to the canoe a double row of
stakes are firmly planted in the ground
and the spruce frame is sprung be-
tween them. The bark is put on inside
out, and the work of sewing together
is done while the bark is fresh, or
immediately after it is stripped from
the tree. The seams are afterward
made water-tight by smearing well
with spruce gum, which hardens quick-
ly and makes a fairly good joint. The
Indian model is a good one so far as
the freeboard, width of beam, and flar-
ing stems are concerned, but the curved
bottom makes it extremely cranky and
dangerous for the novice to handle. Be
sure to see that the birch-bark canoe
is fashioned with a flat, straight bot-
tom, which makes the craft steadier
and less inclined to veer about under

the stroke of the paddle. In an expert's
hands the round bottom will be found
a decided advantage, making it faster
to paddle and more easily turned and
steered in swift and rough water.
Many prefer the three-piece bottom,
but the bottom made of a single piece
of bark is stronger and less likely to
open up and leak. All birch canoes
will warp and twist somewhat, and it
is practically impossible to find one
that is straight and true. The birch-
bark canoe has many limitations and
not a few weaknesses, but if one has
the good luck to find a good one, and
treats it fairly, it will prove a safe and
dry craft for many hundreds of miles'
travel-. Of course, one must carry a
kettle of pitch for making repairs, and
be content to travel somewhat slower
than with modern canoes, but this may
not be a disadvantage. Birch canoe's
have no seats, as the Indian kneels
when paddling, but a low thwart, or
seat, is easy to put in at the bow and
stern, if one prefers the white man's
paddling position.

All-Wood or Peterborough Canoe
This type of craft is much used in
Canada along the St. Lawrence River,
and to a much less extent by American
sportsmen, owing to its higher cost,
and its tendency to break and cause a
leak. Of course, the all-wood canoe
is a good craft, but everything con-
sidered, there can be no question in
the minds of canoeists who are ac-
quainted with all types of canoes, that
the all-cedar or basswood craft is less
dependable than the canvas-covered
cedar canoe. The Peterborough type
— so called from a Canadian city of
this name where many wood canoes
are made — with its relatively low ends
and straight sides with but little sheer
and tumble home, is the model com-
monly used by practically all manufac-
turers of the all-wood canoe. While
a boat of this kind can be, and often is
used in rough-water lake paddling as
well as in wilderness travel, the all-
wood canoe is better suited for club
use, and in the wider and more quiet-
flowing streams and lakes.

The Canvas-Covered Cedar Canoe
The canvas-covered cedar canoe,
when rightly made of the best ma-
terial, is by all odds the best paddling
craft afloat, being strong and light.

price to obtain a good craft, and while
various manufacturers supply canoes
of similar types at different prices,
some of them are so inferior that they
will scarcely stand a season's use. Of

with a hull so smooth that it is swift
to paddle, while the mode of construc-
tion makes a very stiff craft, which will
not warp or twist out of shape. More-
over, it will stand a vast amount of
hard usage and abuse, while repairs
are quickly and neatly done by the
stream side. In the making of a first-
class canoe of this type, the ribs are
first steamed and then bent and fitted
over a solid form ; cedar being used for
the ribs and planking; spruce for the
gunwales, and white ash, or oak, for
the stems and thwarts. In a canoe
built according to my instructions,
each plank runs to the full length of
the craft and all are beveled and
lapped together, thus making a per-
fectly smooth and almost water-tight
canoe, before the canvas is cemented
on its surface. The canvas is thor-
oughly waterproofed before it is put
on, then it is drawn tightly over the
planking, and several coats of filler
and the final finish of paint are applied,
after which it is rubbed down.

The well-made canvas-covered canoe
is, if properly designed, a pretty good
facsimile of the representative Indian
model in that it possesses all the good
points of the birch-bark canoe, but is
more substantially constructed, of bet-
ter and more durable material, and
more finely finished. In making the
selection, it is necessary to pay a fair

course, the use to which a canoe is put
will influence the selection. If the
craft is wanted for long service on
hunting and iishing trips, a high-grade
canoe of plain finish is the logical
choice. If the canoe is for club use, a
highly finished craft with mahogany
trimmings may be preferred. A canoe
for occasional use on some quiet lake
or small stream may be selected from
the cheaper kinds, which will, no doubt,
answer every purpose. However,
most manufacturers list what they call
an "A" and a "B" grade. The "A"
grade provides selected-cedar ribs and
planking; oak for gunwales, stems,
thwarts and seats selected from the
finest material, and the finish the best
that can be procured, while the "B"
grade is identical in model, canvas and
paint, but the material not quite so
clear or free from minor defects, though
for all practical purposes it will render
as much service and give fully as much
satisfaction as the first, or "A," grade.
A little saving may be made by select-
ing the second-grade canoe, having
most of the money invested in the
canoe and not so much in the finer
finishings. The ordinary construction
provides for the ordinary solid topwale,
but the open gunwale is sometimes pre-
ferred, because the openings make
washing easy, all sand and dirt running
out freely between the wales. This

construction detail is supplied by most
manufacturers, when specified, at a
slight additional cost.

Points to be Considered

The particular shape, combined with
the dimensions, of the canoe is com-
monly called the model, and since

TOPWALE

THWART

The Important Parts of

a Canoe, Giving Names

for the Information of

the Novice

many canoe builders oft'er several
different models it is a comparatively
easy matter to find a craft which fully
meets one's ideas of a canoe. Canoes
can be had as small as 10 ft. long
and weighing as little as IS lb., while
others are built all the way up to
35 ft. and ranging around 50 in. wide.
For all-around use, that is for cruis-
ing, hunting, and fishing, the 16-ft.
length, with 32-in. beam, 12 in. deep
amidships, and weighing about 60 lb.,
will meet the approval of the experi-
enced canoeist. In a good canoe of
this size a flat floor, medium-high
ends, and a fair amount of tumble
home — to add stability and keep the
water from shooting inboard — may be
reckoned the "earmarks" of a general-
purpose craft. For exclusive river
work, where many rapids are en-

countered, a lightly rounded bottom, a
trifle lower in the center than at the
ends, will be easier to handle in white
water, while comparatively narrow
ends will give more speed under the
paddle.

All canvas-covered canoes are pro-
vided with brass bang plates, or irons,
at stern and bow, and if wanted, an
outside keel may be furnished. In
most cases this is not essential, but
when the canoe is largely used in rocky
rivers a broad keel of ^/-i-in. oak, or ash,
Si/2 in. wide in the center and tapered
at both ends to fit the brass bang irons,
will protect the bottom from hard
knocks. The narrow 1-in. keel is an
out-and-out nuisance, making the
canoe slow to turn and furnishing Ijut
scant protection for the bottom. Any
keel adds to the weight of the craft,
and weight is a factor that must be
considered when much portaging is
done. So far as capacity is concerned,
a canoe, IG ft. long, 32-in. beam, and
12-in. amidship depth, will accommo-
date two men and the usual amount
of camp duffle, weighing from 350 to
400 lb. On short trips, a 15-ft. canoe
may be made to accommodate two men,
while on very long cruises, where a
larger amount of duffle must be taken
along, an IS-ft. canoe may be needed.
For three persons, the 17 or IS-ft.
canoe, of 34-in. beam, is about right,
but for a party of four it is better to use
two IG-ft. canoes than one large craft.
In fact, canoes longer than 18 ft. are
more properly regarded as freight craft
and only used on special trips.

Moccasins, or rubber-soled footwear,
are most suitable for the canoeist's
wear, but since heavy-heeled shoes are
often worn, it is a good plan to protect
the thin planking by running a slatted
floor, 8 or 10 in. wide, in the center of
the canoe. Provide this grating with
brass buttons, and it will be held firmly
in place, but removable at any time.
For convenience in towing, a small but
flexible rope — braided cotton is always
soft and pliable — about 20 ft. long,
should be tied at both bow and stern.
The ordinary "painter eye," which
fastens with a bolt screwed to the un-

der side of the breast hooks, is good,
but a small hole, through which the
rope is securely knotted, will serve as
well.

Paddles

The best material for paddles is good
selected spruce, and while this ma-
terial is not so heavy nor will stand
hard knocks so well as maple or birch,
its lightness makes it the choice of
many paddlers. For rough work the
maple paddle may be chosen, and while
heavier than spruce, it possesses great-
er elasticity, and this spring offsets to
a great extent the larger weight of ma-
terial. Cedar, ash, and pine make ex-
cellent paddles, and the Indians often
fashion them from these woods.

In selecting a single-blade paddle, it
is well to remember that the length will
depend on the paddler's height, for it
is self-evident that a tall man will re-
quire a longer paddle than a short per-
son can conveniently swing. Hence the
usual rule is to pick out a paddle as
long as the paddler is tall, and is a
sensible one to follow, although there
are exceptions. Personal preferences
diiter, and, also, a longer paddle will be
required when paddling from seats than
when a kneeling position is adopted.
For general use, the stern paddle of
5^-ft. length will be long enough,
while the bow paddle of 5 ft. will prob-
ably suit the average man. Ladies,
boys, and girls will need shorter
lengths.

The shape of the paddle blades varies
somewhat, and while some prefer a
broad blade and others a narrow one,
it is well to pick out one of medium
size. Large blades are tiresome for
long trips, while the narrow blade
balances best in the hand, but affords
less resistance in the water. When
picking out a spruce paddle, see that
there is plenty of wood at the juncture
of the blade and shaft, for it is at this
point most paddles break. Spruce
being a comparatively soft wood, it
will fur badly, and the blades should be
fitted with copper tips to prevent split-
ting. Maple paddles do not need this
protection, but most builders err in
making them too thick and heavy.

Pick out the lightest and thinnest
maple paddle that can be found, one
that is fashioned of straight-grained
wood, and test it for elasticity before
making the purchase. A couple of

Canoe Yoke Equipped

with Adjustable

Shoulder Pads, and

the Pneumatic Carrier

That Serves Two

Purposes

coats of spar varnish will keep the pad-
dles in good shape, but as a varnished
surface is hard on the hands, most
veteran canoeists varnish the blades
and finish the shafts with oil. An extra
paddle will, of course, be carried on all
long trips.

The single-blade paddle is quite uni-
versally used, but the double-blade
gives more spread for the lone paddler.
Although the double-blade was de-
signed for the "Rob Roy" type of canoe
— a one-man craft, decked both fore
and aft, the paddler sitting in a cockpit
in the center — it is sometimes used for
propelling the open Canadian canoe,
and when the canoeist travels alone,
the double-blade is a good choice, espe-
cially on open waters where much wind
and high seas are likely to be encoun-
tered. Spruce is the best material for
double paddles, and 10 ft. is the best
length. As all double-bladed paddles
are provided with a ferrule, or friction
joint, in the center, they may be un-
jointed and each used as a pair of single
paddies. In case the open end of the
metal ferrule is objectionable, a wood
plug may be fitted to provide a palm
grip, similar to the grip of the single
paddle.

Portages for Carrying the Canoe

When the weight of the canoe does
not exceed 6-5 lb., it is easily carried by
placing the paddle blades over the cen-
ter thwart, the ends under the next
after thwart and lashing them se-
curely in place; then placing a sweater
or coat over the shoulder to form a

100

pad on which to rest the paddles to
carry the canoe in an inverted position.
However, when long portages must be
undertaken the "neck yoke," or the
pneumatic canoe yoke, may be used.
The neck yoke is fashioned from a
block of pine, or other soft wood, to fit
the curve of the shoulders, and the ends
fit in the grooves made in the gunwales ;
or small pieces of wood may be screwed
to the under side of the gunwale to
serve the same purpose. The pneu-
matic cushion, which fits around the
neck and is provided with straps to

secure the paddles in position, is well
liked by some canoeists, but the wood
neck yoke fits so well that it is hard
to find a good substitute. A large and
heavy craft can be easily carried by
two men by turning the craft bottom
side up and resting the weight on the
back and shoulders. If the man at the
stern lets the gunwale rest on his
shoulders and his companion lowers
the front thwart to rest against his
neck and shoulders, both may carry
a light pack of duffle and will have a
clear view of the trail ahead.

To Practice Batting for Baseball
Playing

A boy with a very great desire to
make a good ball player fovind that
he could not hit a ball tossed to him.

Learning to Strike a Ball without the Aid of a
Pitcher or Fielder

Try as he might, the bat never hit the
ball. Some one suggested that a ball
hung by a cord would help to a great
extent, and it was tried out with excel-
lent results. An inexpensive ball was
suspended from the limb of a tree so
that it would be at the proper height
for the batter. In striking at the ball
it was not necessary to make home-run
hits, as this is liable to break the cord,
or get it tangled to its support. If

the strikes are made properly, the ball
will swing out and come hack in a per-
fect curve, or can be made to come back
bounding and in no straight line. This
will teach the eye to locate the ball and
make hits where it cannot be taught by
having some one toss the ball to the
striker.

Making Impressions of Leaves

A very true and artistic impression
of a leaf, or similar object, can be made
as follows : Grease a piece of heavy
writing paper with linseed oil, and
smoke the surface well by lighting a
small piece of camphor gum and hold-
ing the paper over the flame. Place
the leaf on the smoked surface of the
paper and cover it with several thick-
nesses of newspaper, then press the
leaf into the blackened surface. Re-
move the leaf and lay it with the black-
ened surface on a piece of white paper,
then cover again with the newspaper
and press evenly and thoroughly. A
beautiful and permanent impression of
the leaf will be transferred to the paper.

Care should be taken not to move the
leaf the least bit either in coating it
with the smoke or in transferring it to
the paper. Be careful not to use too
much oil. This process can be used
to stamp cloth for embroidery. A
candle can be used in place of the cam-
phor if care is exercised, but the cam-
phor gives a very dense smoke with a
minimum of heat. — Contributed by
J. H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.

Making T- Squares

By J. B. MURPHY

THE making of a single article of
any kind presents a distinct prob-
lem in itself, but the production of a
large number of the same article must
be done in a difterent way, if efficiency
and uniformity in the product are desir-
able qualities. Taking, for instance, the
making of a large number of T-squares,
the material is not made up in the same
manner as for one. Where a number
of these instruments was required, they
were made as follows, with no other
equipment than bench tools and a band
saw. The squares were made of ma-
hogany having both stock and blade
edged with maple. The blades were
fastened to the stock with five %-in.
button-head screws.

The material for the heads and the

MAHOGANY

Dimensions for a T-Square of Which a Number were
to be Made in Duplicate

blades was glued up and finished to the
sizes given at A and B. The material
was cut to gauge lines on the band saw,
the blades being a scant % in. in thick-

ness, and the stocks, % in. Two of
each were cut from each prepared
piece, first from one side and then from

Stock and Blade Material for Matting the Parts, and
the Jig for Assembling

the other. They were then faced off on
both sides, and two more pieces cut.
With careful cutting, six blades and six
stocks were made from each piece.
This left one side of each piece to be
planed after sawing. The holes for the
screws were drilled with a small hand
drill.

For assembling, a jig was made by
nailing a piece of stock, 3,^ in. thick,
to a straight drawing board. One end
of the piece was planed straight and
true before it was fastened in place.
Stops were provided to locate the stock
and hold the blade square with it.
Wedges were used to keep both stock
and blade against the stops while the
screws were inserted. The wedges
were not driven with a hammer, but
pushed in firmly with the fingers.

CInsert a scratch awl in common hard
soap for hardening, and it will need no
drawing after the plunge.

101

PART II— The Knack of ^-
Handling the Paddle

THE knack of paddling a canoe as
the majority of amateurs paddle
is quickly learned, but to handle a pad-
dle as the expert woodsman and the
Indian wield it requires not a little
practice and experience. In the birch-
bark and canvas-covered craft, used by
the guides of Maine and Canada, there
are no seats, and the stern paddler
kneels with his back against the rear
thwart, while the bow paddler usually
kneels with his back against the sec-
ond thwart from the bow. However,
the builders of modern canoes furnish
a seat for each paddler, and while it is
more comfortable to use them, it is
better to take the kneeling position,
which brings the weight lower in the
canoe, as it is safer, and the paddler is
better able to control his craft. Again,
the use of the seat makes it impossible
for the paddler to put much of his body
into the stroke, and he propels the
craft largely through the muscles of
his arms and shoulders. But when
paddling from the knees they are
spread out to brace the body firmly,
and the back resting against the
thwart enables the paddler to use his
back and thigh muscles to drive his
craft ahead with much less exertion
and waste of energy than when sitting
erect. Of course, the kneeling position
is a source of discomfort at first, but
after a little practice it will be easy to
keep the position for several hours.

The stroke of the paddle is made with
the body motionless, one hand grasping
the shaft of the paddle and the other
holding it a short distance above the
blade. The paddle is now carried for-
ward, dipped into the water in front.
Fig. 1, A and B, and carried downward
past the paddler's body. Fig. 2, A and B,
and the stroke is finished in the rear,
Fig. 3, A and B. The paddle is recov-
ered by turning the wrist so that the
blade is turned edgewise as it is swung
through the air to begin the second
stroke. The swing of the paddle should
be smooth from the beginning to the
finish of the stroke, that is, free from
undue jerkiness, but the long and slow
sweep of the paddle is amateurish, pure
and simple. The canoemen of the North
woods do not use this stroke, but prefer
a shorter stroke, quick recovery of the
blade, and the "accent" of the stroke
is much the same as that the expert
axman uses when felling a tree. There-
fore one's energy should be concen-
trated upon the first part of the stroke,
easing up quickly as soon as the blade
is opposite the body, and finishing the
stroke smartly as it is carried back-
ward. The driving power of the paddle
diminishes rapidly as the blade is car-
ried backward, and if the full force of
the stroke is continued with a long
backward sweep, a way of most ama-
teurs, much energy is wasted, since it
adds nothing to the forward momentum

102

103

of the canoe, but rather retards it, by
forcing down the stern, and also causes
the craft to drag more water after it.
For a short afternoon paddle almost
any kind of a stroke will suffice to drive
the canoe ahead, but upon long trips, or
when head winds and rough water are
encountered, the quick, short stroke
will save both time and muscle. The
long sweeping stroke of the summer
idler will probably
average about 2G to
30 strokes per minute,
while the North-woods
guide and Indian will

FiG.2

dip their blades
almost twice as
often, a fair cruis-
ing average being
about 45 strokes
per minute. Short
strokes, with the
accent at the be-
ginning of the
stroke, will push
the canoe faster
and with less ef-
fort, and the pad-
dler has better
control over his
craft.

The bow pad-
dler usually does
nothing more than
keep up a regular

stroke and watch for rocks and obstruc-
tions, but if he is a good hand at the
paddle he can do much to steer the
canoe. For example, take the usual
bow stroke, made by dipping the pad-
dle quite close and ahead of the canoe.
The force of the stroke thus made
forces the bow in the opposite direc-
tion, and the man in the stern will be
called upon to use more energy in steer-
ing. In contrast to this faulty handling
of the paddle, the experienced bowman
will begin his stroke by dipping his pad-

dle well out from the bow and pulling it
toward him at a greater angle, which
keeps the canoe moving straight ahead
without swinging to one side, and the
energy of both paddlers is used in driv-
ing the craft steadily ahead. When
paddling in tortuous and rocky streams
it is the bow paddler's duty to watch
out for rocks and snags, and he should
always be prepared to "draw" the canoe
whenever it is necessary to clear an ob-
struction or assist the stern paddler to
shoot the canoe around an abrupt bend.
To do this is simple enough, since the
bowman merely
reaches his paddle
out at arm's
length over the
side and pulls the
bow in that direc-
tion, while the
stern paddler sim-
ply paddles
straight ahead.

The stern pad-
dler is the helms-
man of the canoe,
and while he can
keep his craft on a
straight course by

F1G.3-A

The Stroke of the Paddle is Made with the Body

Motionless, One Hand Grasping the Shaft of

the Paddle and the Other Holding It a

Short Distance above the Blade

r.^..

F1G.3-B

trailing his paddle at the end of each
stroke and using it like a rudder, it can
only be done when a long, slow stroke
is used. To save time and muscle, the
experienced stern paddler always fin-
ishes his stroke with an outward push
and a turn of the wrist, which offsets the
swing of the bow and keeps the canoe
on a straight course with much less
effort than when trailing the paddle
astern. Paddling from the stern is
often considered difficult, but one soon
masters it by a little experience.

104

Paddling in Open and White Water
When traveling in the open waters
of large lakes where heavy winds and
seas are commonly encountered, pad-
dling should always be done on the
knees, and the canoeist's own experi-
ence and judgment must be called upon
to meet constantly changing conditions
of the wind and water. To cross a broad
stretch of wind-swept water where
whitecaps are running high, means a
long, hard fight, and the stern paddler
must be ever alert to ease the canoe
through breaking crests and shift his
balance whenever the necessity arises.
When paddling in rough water, many
canoeists make the mistake of driving
their craft too hard, consequently the
canoe will "pound" when it reaches the
trough of the sea, and much unneces-
sary spray is sent flying aboard. Of
course, in rough water some spray is
certain to come over the rail, but if the
craft is well balanced by stowing the
camp duffle so that the canoe floats on
an even keel, it
will, with proper
handling, weath-
er a pretty stiff
gale.

When paddling
against a heavy
sea and wind,
the regular
stroke must be
altered and mod-
ified, and the
man in the stern
may often bal-
ance his craft by
holding his pad-
dle in the water
while a particu-
lar high comber sweeps by. Short and
clean strokes are essential for handling
the canoe in a heavy sea, and while the
skillful canoeist can handle his craft in
the trough of the sea when the need
arises, it is hazardous for the novice
to attempt it. In heavy weather, it is
a good thing to keep one paddle in the
water while the other is in the air, hence
the experienced canoeist will — uncon-
sciously perhaps — alternate or "split"
strokes with his bowman.

Dangerous for the Novice,

but Experts Win Races

in This Position

To paddle, head on, into heavy seas
is slow and tiresome work, and most
canoeists find it easier to take the seas
on the quarter, and the stern paddler
must be ever on the lookout, nursing
his craft over the big ones and often
turning his bow into the largest comb-
ers. To be sure, the canoe will plunge
more or less and yaw about, but the
stern paddler merely checks this side
spin, since he cannot prevent it entirely
and drive his craft onward at the same
time. When running before the wind,
it is only necessary to keep the canoe
balanced or "trimmed" to keep things
dry. Here the bow paddler has the
best of it ; his sole duty is to keep pad-
dling steadily ahead, while the balanc-
ing and handling of the canoe rests with
the man in the stern. This point is well
worth remembering, for to keep the
canoe right side up when shooting
rapids or when bucking heavy seas on
a lake, the bow paddler must stick to
his seat. He can, from his position in
the bow, quickly note rocks or other
obstructions and pass the word to his
partner, who from his point of advan-
tage can likewise better size up the
effect of a high wave upon the craft.
Probably more capsizes have resulted
through the bowman's mistaken efforts
to balance the canoe by leaning to one
side, or attempting to dodge the spray
in rough-water paddling, than through
the inability of the stern paddler to
handle his craft.

Running a rapid stream in a canoe
is replete with excitement, but it is
likewise a dangerous bit of fun for the
inexperienced canoeist who has not ful-
ly mastered the handling of his craft.
When running rapids where the water
is fairly deep, the use of the paddle is
the better way, providing both paddlers
kneel in the bottom of the canoe. Un-
known streams are naturally the most
dangerous, although the veteran canoe-
ist can "size" up the character of the
stream at the first glance, that is, the
trained eye of the woodsman will read
the bottom of the river by the indica-
tions on the surface ; depth of water,
strength of current, swirl caused by
submerged rocks, and many other de-

105

tails are evident to him. To the novice
these signs mean but little. If the cur-
rent flow is from three to four miles per
hour, rocks or submerged logs, 4 or 5
in. below the surface, will show very
little, but in a 10-mile or swifter cur-
rent obstructions 12 or even 18 in.
below the surface will throw up swirl-
ing ripples, and in a very rocky stream
with much water flowing, rocks 3 or 4
ft. below will throw up waves of good
size. Again, waves are caused by swift
water striking the comparatively quiet
water of a deep pool and the canoeist
should be able to determine the differ-
ence between them in order to know
what part of the stretch is dangerous
and that which may be run in safety.

The waves in a rapid stream are alto-
gether unlike the rolling waves of the
open lake, in that the crests follow one
another closely and the canoe cannot
rise, but plunges through the curling
crests. Rocks on the surface are easily
avoided, as they split the current, and
it is only necessary to steer the craft
to one side to pass them safely. The
one chief thing to do when shooting the
rapids is to keep the canoe on an even
keel and the bow into the current, and
when it is necessary to change chan-
nels, the craft must be shot diagonally
across the fast water. To keep the
canoe under perfect control in white
water, it must be propelled faster than
the current flows, and the force of the
stream must not strike one side of the
bow with greater force than it exerts
on the other side. When a canoe swings
around in the current, the power of the
paddles will be unable to cope with the
more powerful current, which quickly
swings it broadside and one is strug-
gling in the water in the next instant.

On a long canoe trip where much
rapid water must be run, a "setting
pole" should be reckoned a necessity.
The pole may be a stout sapling, 10 ft.
long, cut by the stream side, but an iron
shoe, or spike, about 3 in. long, with an
iron band or ferrule, should be carried
in the kit, the iron spike being simply
driven in the end of the green pole. The
pole may be used to good advantage
when running down shallow rapids, the

man in the bow kneeling and using his
paddle to help steer while his partner
stands in the stern and wields the pole.

The Double Blade Is Often Useful When Paddling

Single-Handed on a Broad Reach of

Wind-Swept Water

When traveling up shallow and swift
streams, the setting pole is absolutely
necessary, and while at first it is an
awkward implement to handle, a little
practice will enable the canoeist to pole
his craft with very little more effort
than is required to paddle it. The use
of the pole necessitates a standing posi-
tion, but this is neither risky nor diffi-
cult for any canoeist who understands
the knack of balancing a canoe, and
none but an experienced canoeist has
any business in swift, white water. The
setting pole is gripped with the left
hand near the top, with the right hand
held stationary about 2 ft. lower, and
as the canoe travels past the pole, firm-
ly planted on the river bottom, the poler
leans forward and makes use of his
weight and strength to give a quick
push. The pole is again shoved for-
ward as quickly as possible, that the
craft may lose as little headway as pos-
sible, and a new grip secured for the
next push. After a little experience
with the pole, the canoeist will find it
an eas}^ matter to swing his craft across
the current and avoid rocks and other
obstructions as easily as when pad-
dling. When contemplating a long
trip up a stream where the water is
heavy and the current swift, the use of
two poles will make the work easier.
Both persons should pole from the

106

same side, the man in the bow doing
the steering while the stern man adds
his straight-ahead push to force the
canoe upstream.

The Track Line

The average wilderness stream of the
North has enough "tight" places which

Shifting the Paddle

from One Side

of the Canoe

to the Other

judgment tells the traveler to avoid by
making a detour by land rather than
risk a capsize and a possible loss of the
outfit. To "tote" the outfit overland
means more or less hard work, and as
every canoeist will avoid portaging if
there is a fair chance of getting the
canoe through a bad stretch of water,
the tracking line will come in handy
very often. The usual ring in the bow
of the canoe is far too flimsy for hauling
the loaded craft, and sufficient length
of stout rope should be carried along
to pass through the painter eye, and
then carried aft and half-hitched to the
first and second thwarts. One man can
pull the canoe up a swift stream by
walking along the bank while his part-
ner takes up the opposite side and
steers the craft away from rocks by
using a stern line. With a heavily
loaded canoe in very swift and shallow
water, both men must often wade, and
a tump line rigged up as a breast or
shoulder strap will make it easier work
for the man at the bow line.

Paddling a Canoe Single-Handed

The open, or Canadian-model, canoe
is, of course, handled more easily and

with better speed with two paddlers,
but there are occasions when the canoe
is used single-handed. When out for
a few hours' paddle, the canoeist usu-
ally balances the craft by sitting on the
bow seat — or kneels on the bottom with
his back against the bow-seat brace —
and using the stern for the bow. This
brings the paddler's weight nearer the
center and keeps the canoe better bal-
anced than when paddling from the
stern with the bow high in the air.
However, when the canoe is loaded,
many canoeists stow their camp duflle
forward and paddle from the stern, the
weight of the outfit keeping the craft
on an even keel. This answers well
enough for smooth-water going, but
when the water is rough, or a stretch
of rapids is run single-handed, the stern
position is by no means a good one,
since the craft is more difificult to con-
trol, and much more strength is re-
quired to drive it forward. The Indian
manner of paddling a canoe alone is the
only correct one, for he always sits
amidships — kneeling in the center^
and if a load is carried, it is placed in
front and back of him so that the craft
is balanced on an even keel. Conse-
quently the canoe draws less water and
can be paddled faster with the same
eiTort, while the paddler has the craft
under perfect control. But the experi-
enced line paddler does not kneel in the
center, he moves out until his body is
close to the gunwale. This makes the
craft heel at a decided angle, it is true,
but this position makes for better speed,
because it enables the paddle to be held
almost vertical, and the more nearly
perpendicular the paddle is swung the
more efficient will be the stroke.

In using the double blade, the pad-
dler dips first on one side, then on the
other, and to make the blades travel
through the air with the least resist-
ance, it is customary to set them at
right angles to each other. The motion
is really a push and pull, the shaft of
the paddle being rotated in the hands
so that the blade will enter the water
with the full breadth facing the canoe-
ist. Rubber cups, to catch the drip as
the paddle rises in the air when makinrj

lor

the stroke, are sometimes used by
novices, but these are unnecessary if the
paddles are set at right angles, and the
paddler will bend his wrist a trifle to
throw the drip ahead and to one side.
At the beginning, the novice will very
likely throw a little water in the canoe,
but a little practice will soon master the
knack.

Care and Repair of the Canoe

The canvas-covered cedar canoe will
stand a vast amount of hard service,
but it should not be dragged over the
ground or over the boarding of the land-
ing float, neither should it be so placed
that any strain will come amidships
while the ends are well supported.
When storing for the winter, keep it
under cover, resting bottom side down
on a floor, or turn it bottom side up and
support it with boxes, or other stand-
ard.', at the center as well as at the ends.
While unused at the camp, turn it bot-
tom side up on the bank. Birch bark
must be kept out of the sun, and the
paint of canvas-covered canoes will last
longer if kept in the shade. When the
paint becomes rough, sandpaper it
down smooth, and give it a couple of
coats of canoe paint. When the paint
is worn off and exposes the canvas, give
the bare cloth a couple of coats of shel-
lac before painting.

A repair kit should be taken along
on all long trips, consisting of a small
can of white lead, a can of orange shel-

Paddling should be Done on the Knees When Traveling
Where High Winds and Seas are Encountered

lac, and a sheet of oiled silk. For small
cuts in the canvas, a coat or two of shel-
lac will suffice, but for bad gashes, cut
oft' the loose threads of canvas and rub
on a little white lead under the raised
portion near the hole and on the sur-
face, cut a patch of the oiled silk to
cover it, and paste it in position. When
the lead is dry, give it a couple of coats
of shellac. For making quick repairs,
a roll of electrician's tape will come in
handy. The birch canoe is quickly
repaired in the same manner as sug-
gested for the canvas-covered craft, and
as the shellac is waterproof and dries
quickly, all ordinary repairs may be
made by the stream side with but little
loss of time.

Oiling Tool for Clocks

Jewelers use a little tool for oiling
clocks and watches that could be used
profitably by others for the same and
similar work. It consists of a steel
wire, bluntly pointed on the end and
set into a wood handle. Very often
the only thing that is the matter with
a clock which does not keep good time,
is that it is dirty and dry. If this is
the case, any person handy with tools
can fix it at practically nO' cost. Re-
move the works, which are usually held
with four screws, from the case, im-
merse them in kerosene and allow them
to stand for a few minutes, then re-
move and drain. This will clean out
the dirt.

The oiling tool is dipped in light oil

and a drop applied to each bearing. Re-
place the works in the case and the job
is finished. A reliable jeweler will
charge very little for this work, but the
more crafty ones may ask a good price
for this "mysterious" process. If the
works are not dirty, apply the oil with
the tool. Anyone who has tried to oil
a clock with an ordinary spout oilcan

WIRE-'

The Tool will Pick Up a Drop o( Oil and Deposit It
Where Wanted

knows the futility of the attempt. The
object of the tool is to pick up and
carry a drop of oil and deposit it where
wanted. A can, a feather, or a match
will do. but any one of them is apt to
carry dirt, flood the dry part, or smear
up nonmoving parts.

108

Easily Constructed Wall Shelves

All that is necessary to make and sup-
port the simple set of wall shelves,
shown in the illustration, is lumber for

Shelves for Books

Supported with

Picture-Frame Wire

to the Wall

the shelves, four screw eyes, four screw
hooks, sufficient picture-frame wire to
form the braces and supports, and wood
screws for attaching the wire. On the
top side of the upper shelf are fastened
the four screw eyes, two near the wall
edge and the others near the outer edge.
To support the upper shelf four screw
hooks are used ; two placed in the wall
and spaced to match the set of screw
eyes nearest the wall, the others being
placed above the first and connected to
the outer set of screw eyes with the
wire, thereby forming strong inclined

supports, ihe remaining shelves can
be hung to suit by the supporting v/ires,
which are fastened with screws to the
end of each shelf.

Showing the Strength of a Giant

This trick is not so well known as it
might be, although for a while it was
quite a popular drawing attraction for
circus side shows and other amuse-
ment places. It is one of the favorite
Hindu tricks. The performer passes
for examination two pieces of rope 10
ft. long. In one end of each rope a large
ring is fastened. Taking a ring in each
hand the performer commands three or
four men at each end of the rope to take
hold of it and at a signal they pull as
hard as possible. They pull until they
are exhausted as in a tug of war, but the
performer only appears a trifle exerted
and finds no difficulty in holding the
men.

The secret is in the use of a piece of
flexible wire, which passes up the right
sleeve of the performer, across the back
and down the left sleeve, lying just
inside of the coat sleeve. At the ends
of the wire are small hooks. When
about to perform this trick the per-
former puts on a pair of gloves. The
gloves are slit in the palms to allow the
hooks to pass through. The hooks are
covered with cloth, colored to match
the gloves. An essential point to re-
member in performing the trick is to
keep the fingers well around the rings
to prevent the ropes from dropping in
case of a slack-up on the tension.

?he Performer Seems to Hold the Ones Pulling on the Ropes without Any Effort. Producing an Effect That
cannot be Readily Understood, and Making an Excellent Trick for the Lawn Party

The Tricks of Camping Out

By STILLMAN TAYLOR

PART I— The Camping Outfit

TO enjoy a vacation in the woods
thoroughly, it is essential that the
outer be provided with the right kind
of an outfit. The inexperienced are
likely to carry too much rather than
too little to the woods ; to include many
unnecessary luxuries and overlook the
more practical necessities. However,

generous

The Choice of a Tent
There are tents and tents, but fov
average outings in what may be con-
sidered a permanent camp, the regula-
tion wall, or army, tent is generally
used to make a comfortable shelter.
It is a splendid utility tent, with
ffoor space and plenty of
headroom. For the perma-
nent camp, the wall tent is
often provided with a fly,
which may be set up as an
extra covering for the roof,
or extended over the front
to make a kind of porch.
An extension may also be
purchased to serve the same
purpose. The 7 by 9-ft.
wall tent will shelter two
persons comfortably, but
when the camp is seldom
moved, the 9 by 12-ft. size,
with a Si^-ft. wall, will af-
ford more room. The reg-

The Old Hand at the Camping Game

Prefers to Cut Poles on the Camping

Site and Set Them Up on the Outside

for the Camp-Fire Tent

camp life does not mean that
one must be uncomfortable,
but rather implies plain and
simple living close to nature.
An adequate shelter from
the sun and rain, a com-
fortable bed, a good cooking
kit, and plenty of wholesome
food, are the important
things to consider. No man
or woman requires more,
and if unwilhng to share the
plain fare of the woodsman,
the pampered ones should
be left at home, for the
grouchy, complaining indi-
vidual makes, of all persons,
the very worst of camping
companions.

'/i^^^ -^i^is'

The Wall Tent may be Erected with the Regular Poles, or.

When Ordered with Tapes along the Ridge, It can be

Set Up with Outside Tripod or Shear Poles

109

110

Illation 8-oz. duck is heavy enough, or
the same tent may be obtained in tan
or dark green khaki, if preferred. In
any case the tent should have a sod
cloth, from 6 to 12 in. wide, extending
around the bottom and sewed to the
tent. An extra piece of canvas or floor
cloth is desirable, but this as well as
the fly are extras, and while convenient,
are by no means necessary. The wall
tent may be erected with the regular
poles, or it may be ordered with tapes
along the ridge and erected by sus-
pending between two trees. The old
hand at the camping game rarely uses
the shop poles supplied with most
tents, but prefers to cut them at the
camping site and rig them up on the
outside, one slender pole fastened with
tapes along the ridge and supported
at either end in the crotch formed by
setting up two poles, tripod or shear-
fashion.

The "Baker" style is a popular tent,
giving a large sleeping capacity, yet
folding compactly. The 7 by 7-ft. size,
with a 8-ft. wall, makes a good com-
fortable home for two, and will shelter
three, or even four, if required. The
entire front may be opened to the fire
by extending it to form an awning, or
it may be thrown back over the ridge
to form an open-front lean-to shelter.

The "Dan Beard," or camp-fire, tent
is a modification of the Baker style,
having a slightly steeper pitch, with a
smaller front opening. The dimensions
are practically the same as the Baker,
and it may be pitched by suspending
between two trees, by oi:tside poles, or
the regular poles may be used.

For traveling light by canoe or pack,
a somewhat lighter and less bulky form
of tent than the above styles may be
chosen, and the woodsman is likely to
select the forester's or ranger types.
The ranger is a half tent with a 2-ft.
wall and the entire front is open ; in
fact, this is the same as the Baker tent
without the flap. If desired, two half
ranger tents with tapes may be pur-
chased and fastened together to form
an A, or wedge, tent. This makes a
good tent for two on a hike, as each
man carries his own half, and is as-

sured a good shelter in case one be-
comes separated from his companion,
and a tight shelter when the two make
camp together.

The forester's tent is another good
one, giving good floor space and fold-
ing up very compactly, a 9 by 9-ft. tent
weighing about 51.. lb. when made of
standard-weight fabric. It may be had
either with or without hood, and is
quickly erected by using three small
saplings, one along the ridge, running
from peak to ground, and one on each
side of the opening, to form a crotch
to support the ridge pole, shear-fash-
ion. These tents are not provided with
sod or floor cloths, although these may
be ordered as extras if wanted.

The canoe or "protean" tents are
good styles for the camper who travels
light and is often on the move. The
canoe tent has a circular front, while
the protean style is made with a square
front, and the wall is attached to the
back and along the two sides. Both
tents are quickly set up, either with a
single inside pole or with two poles
set shear-fashion on the outside. A
9 by 9-ft. canoe or protean tent with a
3-ft. wall makes a comfortable home in
the open.

Whatever stjde of tent is chosen, it
is well to pay a fair price and obtain
a good quality of material and work-
manship. The cheaper tents are made
of heavier material to render them
waterproof, while the better grades are
fashioned from light-weight fabric of
close weave and treated with a water-
proofing process. Many of the cheaper
tents will give fair service, but the
workmanship is often poor, the grom-
mets are apt to pull out, and the seams
rip after a little hard use. All tents
should be waterproofed, and each pro-
vided with a bag in which to pack it.
An ordinary tent may be waterproofed
in the following manner : Dissolve %
lb. of ordinarj' powdered alum in 4 gal.
of hot rain water, and in a separate
bucket dis.solve i/o lb. of acetate of lead
— sugar of lead — in 4 gal. of hot rain
water. The acetate of lead is poison-
ous if taken internally. When thor-
oughly dissolved, Jet the solutions

Ill

The Forester's Tent is Quickly Erected by

Using Three Small Saplings. One along the

Ridge, and One on Each Side of the Opening

to Form a Crotch for the Ridge Pole

Stand until clear, then pour
the alum solution into a tub
and add the lead solution.
Let the solution stand for
an hour or two, then pour
off the clear water and thor-
oughly soak the fabric in
the waterproofing mixture
by rubbing and working the
material with the hands.
Hang the cloth up without
out.

How to Pitch a Tent

It is, of course, possible
to pitch a tent almost any-
where, but for the sake of
comfort, it is well to select
a site with natural drainage.
Many campers dig a shallow
trench around the tent to
prevent water from running
in during a heavy rain. This
is a good idea for the per-
manent camp, but is not
often necessary if the soil is
sandy or porous, or where
a sod cloth is used.

is rarely necessary to

'3?

The Ranger's or

' * er's Tent Comes

alves. Each Half

may be Used

Independently as a

Lean-To Shelter for

One Man, or Both Joined Together to Make Room for Two Persons

The Canoe or Protean Tents Are Good
Styles for the Camper Who Travels Light
and Is Often on the Move, and They can be
Quickly Set Up with a Single Inside Pole

carry the regular poles to
the camping ground, and
they may be omitted except-
ing when en route to a tree-
less region. The wall and
other large tents may be
pitched in several ways. In
some places the woodsman
cuts a straight ridge pole,
about 3 ft. longer than the
tent, and two crotched up-
rights, 1 ft. or more longer
than the height of the tent.
The ridge pole is passed
through the opening in the
peak of the tent, or fastened
to the outside of the ridge
with tapes sewed to the

113

cloth. The two upright stakes are
then firmly planted in the ground, one
at the back and the other in front, and
the ridge pole is lifted and dropped
into these crotched supports. Set up
the four corner guys first to get the
tent in shape, then peg down the side
guys and slide them taut so that all
of them will exert an even pull on the
tent. Another good method for set-
ting up the side guys is to drive four
crotched stakes, each about 4 ft. long,
somewhere near 3 ft. from each corner
of the tent, and drop a fairly heavy
pole in the rest so formed, then fasten
the guy ropes to this pole. When a
sod cloth is provided it is turned under
on the inside, the floor cloth is spread
over it and the camp dufifel distributed
along the walls of the tent, to hold it
down and prevent insects and rain
from ente-ring.

To overcome the disadvantage of
placing the poles in the center of the
entrance, the uprights may be formed
by lashing two poles together near the
top to make a crotch and spreading
the bottoms to form a pair of shears.
Poles may be dispensed with entirely,
providing the tent is ordered with
tapes for attaching a rope to suspend
the ridge of the tent between two
trees. Ili a wooded country this man-
ner of setting a tent is generally
preferred.

Where a wall tent is used in a more
permanent camp, it is a good plan to
order a fly, a couple of sizes larger than
the tent. This should be set up by
using separate poles and rigged some
6 or 8 in. higher than the ridge of the
tent, thus affording an air space to
temper the heat of the sun and also
serving to keep things dry during long,
heavy rains.

The Camping Kit

The camping kit, including the few
handy articles needed in the woods, as
well as the bedding and cooking out-
fit, may be either elaborate or simple,
according to the personal experience
and ideas of the camper. In making
up a list, it is a good plan to remember
that only comparatively few articles

are really essential for a comfortable
vacation in the wilderness. A comfort-
able bed must be reckoned one of the
chief essentials, and one may choose
the de-luxe couch — the air mattress or
sleeping pocket — use the ordinary
sleeping bag, or court slumber on one
of the several other styles of camp
beds. The fold-over combination bed,
the stretcher bed, or a common bag
made of ticking, GV. ft. long by 2 ft.
wide, which is stuffed with browse or
leaves, will suffice for the average per-
son. Folding camp cots, chairs, tables,
and other so-called camp furniture,
have their places in the large, fixed
camps, but the woodsman can manage
to live comfortably without them. A
good pair of warm blankets should be
included for each person, providing
the sleeping bag is not taken along.
The regulation army blankets are a
good choice and reasonable in price,
or the blankets used at home may be
pressed into service.

A good ax is the woodsman's every-
day companion, and a good-weight tool,
weighing 3 or 4 lb., and a smaller one
of 11/2 lb. should be carried. When
going light, the belt ax will suffice.

The oil lantern is only suited for the
fixed camp, since the fuel is difficult
to transport unless it is placed in
screw-top cans. The "Stonbridge" and
other folding candle lanterns are the
most convenient for the woods and
give sufficient light for camp life.

The aluminum cooking outfits are
light in weight, nest compactly, and
will stand many years of hard usage,
but like other good things, they are
somewhat expensive. A good substi-
tute, at half the price, may be obtained
in tin and steel, having the good fea-
ture of nesting within each other, but,
of course,not being quite so light nor so
attractive in appearance as the higher-
priced outfits. Both the aluminum and
steel outfits are put up in canvas carry-
ing bags, and an outfit for two in-
cludes a large and a small cooking pot ;
coffee pot ; frying pan with folding or
detachable handle ; two plates ; cups ;
knives ; forks, and spoons. Outfits may
be bought for any number of persons,

113

The Stretcher Bed may be Stuffed with Browse or

Leaves, or Suspended from Poles and

Stakes to Make a Camp Cot

Food Bags with Friction-
Top Tins to Fit Them, in
Which Lard, Butter. Pork,
Ham, and Other Greasy
Necessities are Carried

The Compass Is by Far

the Most Useful Instrument for

the Woods, but Any Reliable

and Inexpensive Watch

may be Carried

A Pack Basket with a Waterproof

Canvas Lid and Cover, Having

Straps to Go over the Shoulders,

Is a General Favorite with

Woodsmen and Guides

A Good, Tempered
Knife Should be Worn at the Belt

The Cooking Kit may be of Aluminum or Steel, All Nesting within the Largest

E'ot. and may Include a Folding Baker, or Reflector, with Bread Board

n Canvas Bag, a Wood Salt Box, and a Water-Tight Can for Matches

Folding Candle Lanterns
are the Most Convenient
for the Woods and They
Give Sufficient Light for
Camp Life

114

and almost all sporting-goods stores
carry them. The two-man outfit in
heavy aluminum will cost $9 or $10,
while the same outfit duplicated in steel
is priced at $3.35.

The Camper's Outfit

The personal outfit should include
only the most useful articles, and each
member of the party should be pro-
vided with a dunnage bag of canvas to
hold bedding and clothing, and a
smaller, or '"ditty," bag for keeping to-
gether the toilet and other personal be-
longings which most everyone finds
necessary for everyday comfort. A
mending kit, containing a few yards of
silk, linen, and twist ; a length of mend-
ing cotton ; buttons ; a few needles and
pins, both safety and the common
kinds, should not be overlooked. The
veteran usually stows away a bit of
wire ; a length of strong twine ; a few
nails and tacks ; rivets, etc., for emer-
gency use, and it is surprising to the
novice how handy these several odds
and ends are found while in camp. A
compact tin box will form a convenient
place to keep them and will take up
little room in the dunnage bag. A med-
icine case and a first-aid outfit are well
worth packing; the smallest cases con-
taining a few of the common remedies
will fully meet the camper's needs.

W'hen carrying food by canoe or
pack basket, the canoe dufi'el and pro-
vision bags are a great convenience,
enabling the outer to carry different
foodstuffs in a compact and sanitary
manner. Food bags may be had in
different sizes, and friction-top tins
may be purchased to fit them ; and one
or more of these liquid-proof contain-
ers are desirable for transporting lard,
butter, pork, ham, and other greasy
necessities. The food bags slip into the
larger duffel bags, making a very com-
pact bundle for stowing away In a
canoe or pack harness.

Carrying List for the Camp Outfit

For permanent camps, take the wall
tent with fly, although the Baker or
camp-fire styles are also good. When
traveling light by canoe, the canoe or

protean tents are recommended. When
going very light by pack, use the for-
ester's or ranger's tent. Sod and floor
cloths and mosquito netting are op-
tional.

The cooking kit may be of aluminum
or steel, all nesting within the largest
pot. Include a folding baker, or re-
flector, with bread board in a canvas
bag, a wood salt box, and a water-tight
can for matches.

Furniture for the permanent camp
consists of a full-sized ax, double-blade
or tomahawk st\le with straight han-
dle, in a protecting case, whetstone and
file for keeping the ax in shape. A
shovel and saw will be needed when a
cabin is built. A canteen may be in-
cluded, but is not required on most
trips. A folding candle laptern is the
best for the average trip, but an oil,
or acetylene, lantern may be used in a
fixed camp. Cots, folding chairs,
tables, hangers, etc., are only useful in
fixed camps.

A pack basket with a waterproof-
canvas lid and cover, having straps to
go over the shoulders, is a general fa-
vorite with woodsmen and guides. Can-
vas packs or dunnage bags may be used
if preferred. There are two sizes of
food bags, one holding 5 lb. and an-
other of 10-lb. capacity, with draw-
strings at the top, and these are the
best for carrying provisions.

Pack harness, with a tumpline to go
across the forehead, is needed when
the outfit must be carried on portages,
etc. This may be omitted when pack
baskets are used. Packing cases of
fiber may be used for shipping the out-
fit to the camping ground, but ordi-
nary trunks, or wood boxes, will an-
swer as well.

The Personal Outfit

An old ordinary suit that is not worn
too thin is sufficient. Corduroy is too
heavy for the summer and too cold for
winter, and canvas is too stiff and noisy
for the woods. Cotton khaki is ex-
cellent for the summer, and all-wool
khaki, or mackinaw, coat and trousers
are comfortable for winter. Wool is
the best material for undergarments

115

in all seasons. Two sets of garments
will be sufficient, as the washing is
done at night. Be sure to have the gar-
ments large enough to allow for shrink-
age. Light-weight cashmere is the best
material for socks during summer, and
heavier weight for tlie winter. Three
pairs of ordinary-weight and one pair
of heavy-weight will be sufficient. A
medium-weight gray-flannel overshirt,
with breast pockets having button
flaps, is the woodsman's choice. On
short and light trips one shirt will do.
A light-weight, all-wool gray or brown,
sweater is a good thing to carry along.
It is easily wetted through and a fa-
mous brier catcher, yet most woods-
men carry one.

The regulation army poncho is more
suited to the woods than a rubber coat
or oilskins. The larger-size poncho is
more bulky to pack, but may be used
as a shelter by rigging it up with poles,
lean-to fashion. A poncho makes a
good ground blanket also.

A medium wide-brimmed hat, in
gray or brown, is better than a cap.
A gray, or brown, silk handkerchief
should be included to wear around the
neck to protect it from the sun and cold.
Only few novices will carry one, but
not so with the regular woodsman.
The moccasin is the only suitable foot-
wear for the woods. The "puckaway,"
with extra sole, is known to most
woodsmen. A pair of larrigans — ankle-
high moccasins with single sole —
are suitable to wear about the camp.

Each member of the party carries his
own knapsack, or ditty bag, in which
such things as brush and comb, tooth-
brush, razor, towel, medicines, station-
ery, etc., are kept. The extra clothing
is carried in its own canvas bag.

Each member of the party carries a
pair of woolen blankets. Army blank-
ets in tan color are serviceable and in-
expensive.

A good, tempered knife should be

worn at the belt, preferably one with-

I out a hilt and having a blade 5 or 6 in.

! A small leather pouch containing a
■ few common remedies, such as quinine,
, laxative, etc. ; and a small lirst-aid out-

fit should be included in each camper's
personal pack. Also a small leathtv
pouch containing an assortment of
needles, darning cotton, buttons, and a
length of heavy silk twist is a handy
companion.

A few sheets of paper and as many
envelopes, a notebook, pencil, and a few
postal cards, are usually carried, to-
gether with an almanac page of the
months covering the intended trip.

The compass is by far the most use-
ful instrument in the woods, but any
reliable and inexpensive watch may be
carried.

i\Iany woodsmen carry a small
hatchet at the belt, and on trips when
but the few necessities are carried the
belt ax takes the place of the heavier-
weight tool. The tomahawk style
gives two cutting edges and is there-
fore the best tool to carry. A leather
or other covering case is needed to pro-
tect the blades.

A small tin box containing an as-
sortment of rivets ; tacks ; a bit of
string; brass wire; a few nails; a
couple of small files ; a tool holder with
tools; a sheet of sandpaper; a bit of
emery cloth, and any other small ar-
ticles which the sportsman fancies will
come in handy, may be carried. It is
surprising how often this "what not"
is resorted to while in the woods.

The odds and ends of personal be-
longings, as a jackknife ; pipe and to-
bacco ; map of the region visited ;
length of fishing line and hook ; a few
loose matches ; match box ; purse ; note-
book and pencil ; handkerchief, etc.,
are, of course, carried in the pocket of
the coat.

A Camper's Salt-and-Pepper Holder

A camper will find a very clever way
to carry salt and
pepper by using
a piece cut from
a joint of bam-
Doo. A piece is
selected with the
joint in the cen-
ter, and the ends are stoppered with
corks.

116

A Simple Self-Contained Motor

To say that the subject of this article
is the simplest motor in the world is
not to overestimate it, for the apparatus
is not only a
motor reduced to
its essential ele-
ments, but com-
bines within it-
self its o w n
source of electric
power, all with-
out the use of a
single piece of
wire. The experi-
ment is very in-
teresting and
instructive and
will well repay
a careful con-
struction along
the lines indicat-
ed, even though
not in strict ac-
cordance with
the dimensions
given.

The first step
is to procure a permanent magnet,
about % in. in diameter and C in. long.
If such a magnet cannot be conven-
iently secured, a piece of tool steel with
flat ends should be hardened by heating
it to a dull red and plunging it in water,
and then strongly magnetized. This
may be readily accomplished by slip-
ping a coil of insulated wire over it
through which the current from a stor-
age battery or set of primary cells is
passed. If these are not at hand, almost
any electrical supply store will mag-
netize the steel.

A square base block with neatly bev-
eled corners is now in order, which is
trimmed up squarely and a hole bored
centrally through it to receive the lower
end of the magnet. Procure a neat
spool and make a hole in it large enough
to pass over the magnet. Glue the
spool to the base after locating it in
the exact center.

The outer and larger cylinder is of
copper, or of brass, copperplated on
the inside. It is cup-shaped, with a

hole in the bottom just large enough to
permit the magnet to be pushed
through with a close fit, to make a good
electrical contact. The magnet may be
held in place by having it closely fit the
spool and the copper cylinder, and by
soldering the heads of a couple of small
tacks, or nails, to its under side and
driving them into the spool. Coat the
magnet with pitch, or paraffin, from the
top down, and around its connection
with the bottom of the cylinder. The
small thimble shown at the top should
be of brass or copper, and while one
can be easily formed of sheet metal and
soldered, it is not improbable that one
could be made in seamless form from
some small article of commerce. In the
exact center of the under side of the
top of this thimble, make a good mark
with a prickpunch, after which a small
steel thumb tack should be filed to a
fine needle point and placed, point up,
exactly central on the upper end of the
magnet, to which it is held with a little
wax. The smaller cylinder is simply a
piece of sheet zinc bent into a true
cylinder of such
a size that it may
be sprung over
the lower end of
the thimble. This
done, it is only
necessary to slip
the zinc over the
end of the mag-
net until the
thimble rests on
the thumb tack,
and then pour
some dilute mu-
riatic or sulphu-
ric acid into the
outer cylinder,
after which the
thimble and at-
tached zinc will
begin to rotate.
The required
strength of the acid and the resulting
speed will depend upon the nicety of
suspension and the trueness of the ro-
tating zinc cylinder. The zinc will
have to be changed, but the copper
undergoes no deterioration.

The Tricks of Camping Out

By STILLMAN TAYLOR

PART II — Cooking in the Woods

COOKING in the woods requires
more of a knack than equipment,
and while a camp stove is well enough
in a permanent camp, its weight and
bulk makes this article of camp furni-
ture unsuited for transportation by
canoe. Patent cooking grates are less
bulky, but the woodsman can learn to
do without them very nicely. How-
ever, the important item which few
woodsmen care to do without is the
folding baker, or reflector. The baker is
folded flat and carried in a canvas case,
including baking pan and a kneading
board. The largest size, with an 18-in.
square pan, weighs about 5 lb., and the
smallest, with an 8 by 13-in. pan in
aluminum, only 2 lb. In use, the re-
flector is placed with the open side close
to the fire, and cooking is accomplished
evenly and well in any kind of weather.
Bread, fish, game, or meat are easily
and perfectly cooked, and the smaller
size is amply large for a party of two
or three.

The camp fire is one of the charms
of the open, and if it is built right and
of the best kind of wood, cooking may
be done over it as well as over a forest
range. Many woodsmen prefer to
build a second and smaller fire for cook-
ing, and although I have never found
this necessar}', excepting in large
camps where a considerable quantity
of food must be prepared, the camper
can suit himself, for experimenting is,
after all, a large part of the fun of liv-
ing in and oft' the woods.

A satisfactory outdoor cooking range
may be fashioned by roughly smooth-
ing the top and bottom sides of two
green logs, and placing them about 6
in. apart at one end and about 2 ft.
apart at the opposite end. At the wide
end a few stones are built up, and
across these, hickory, ash, and other
sticks of hard wood are placed. The
reflector is placed close to the coals at
this end, and the fire is built between
the logs, the broiling and frying being
done at the narrow-end opening.
Woods that burn slowly when green
should be tised for backlogs and end
logs ; chestnut, red oak, butternut, red
maple, and persimmon being best
adapted for this purpose.

The hard woods are best for cooking
and heating, since they burn more
slowly, and give out considerable heat

A Cooking Range

Two Green Logs Laid in a V-Shape

a Few Stones Built Up at the Wide End over

Which a Fire is Made of Hard-Wood Sticks

117

118

and burn down to a body of glowing
coals. Soft woods are quick to catch
fire, burn rapidly, and make a hot fire,
but burn down to dead ashes. Hickory
is by far the best firewood of the
North, in that it makes a hot fire, is
long-burning, and forms a large body
of coals that gives an even and intense

A Green Pole Placed in

a Forked Stick Provides

a Pot Hanger for a

Noonday Meal

heat for a considerable length of time.
Next to hickory comes chestnut ; the
basket oaks, ironwood, dogwood, and
ash are the woodsman's favorites.
Among the woods that are easy to split
are the red oak, basket oak, white oak,
ash, and white birch. Some few woods
split more easily when green than after
seasoning, and among them are hick-
ory, dogwood, beech, sugar maple,
birch, and elm. The most stubborn
woods to split are the elder, blue ash,
cherry, sour gum, hemlock, sweet gum,
and sycamore. Of the softer woods,
the birches make the best fuel ; black
birch in particular makes a fine camp
fire, and it is one of the few woods that
burns well when green. The dry bark
of the hemlock makes a quick and hot
fire, and white birch takes fire quickly
even though moist. Driftwood is good
to start a fire with, and dry pine knots
— the limb stubs of a dead pine tree —
are famous kindlers. Green wood will,
of course, burn better in winter when
the sap is dormant, and trees found on
high ground make better fuel than
those growing in moist bottom lands,
Hard woods are more plentiful on high
ground, while the softer woods are
found in abundance along the margins
of streams.

For cooking the noonday meal a
small fire will suffice to boil the pot
and furnish the heat sufficient to make
a fry. Simply drive a forked stick in
the ground and lay a .green stick in the
fork with the opposite end on the

ground with a rock laid on it to keep
it down, and hang the pot on the pro-
jecting stub left for this purpose. A
long stick with projecting stubs,
planted in the ground to slant over
the fire at an angle, will serve as well.
Let the pot hang about 2 ft. from the
ground, collect an armful of dry twigs
and plenty of larger kindling sticks.
Now shave three or four of the larger
sticks and leave the shavings on the
ends, stand them up beneath the pot,
tripod fashion, and place the smaller
sticks around them to build a miniature
wigwam. While the pot is boiling get
a couple of bed chunks, or andirons,
4 or o in. in diameter, set and level
these on each side of the fire, and put
the frying pan on them. When the
pot has boiled there will be a nice bed
of coals for frying that will not smoke
the meal.

When the woodsman makes "one-
night stands," he will invariably build
the fire and start the kettle boiling
while he or a companion stakes the
tent, and as soon as the meal is pre-
pared, a pot of water is started boiling
for dish washing.

For roasting and baking with the re-
flector, a rather high fire is needed and
a few sticks, a yard or more long, rest-
ing upright against a backlog or rock,
will throw the heat forward. When
glowing coals are wanted one can take
them from the camp fire, or split uni-
form billets of green, or dead, wood
about 2 in. thick and pile them in the
form of a hollow square, or crib. The
fire is built in the center of the crib
and more parallel sticks are laid on
top until it is a foot or more higher.
The crib will act as a chimney, and
a roaring fire will result, which upon
burning down will give a glowing mass
of coals.

Camp cookery implies the prepara-
tion of the more simple and nutritious
foods, and in making up a list it is well
to include only the more staple food-
stuffs, whici are nown to have these
qualities. Personal ideas are certain to
differ greatly, but the following list-
may be depended upon and will ser\-e
as a guide.

119

Provision List
This list of material will be sufficient
for two persons on an outing of two
weeks. Carry in a stout canvas food
bag 12 lb. of common wheat flour. The
self-raising kind is good, but the com-
mon flour is better. It is well to bring
a little yellow, or white, corn meal,
about 6 lb., to be served as a johnny
cake, hot, cold, or fried mush. It is
fine for rolling a fish in for frying.
Rice is very nutritious, easily digested,
and easy to cook. It is good when
boiled with raisins. When cold, it can
be fried in slices. About 3 lb. will be
sufficient. Oatmeal is less sustaining
than rice, but it is good for porridge,
or sliced when cold and fried. Take
along about 3 lb. About 2 lb. of the
self-raising buckwheat flour should be
taken along, as it is the favorite for
flapjacks or griddle cakes. Beans are
very nutritious, and about 2 lb. of the
common baking kind will be required,
to boil or bake with the salt pork. For
soups, take 3 lb. of split peas. They
can also be served as a vegetable. Salt
pork is a stand-by, and 5 lb. of it is
provided and carried in friction-top
tins or a grease-proof bag. It should be
parboiled before adding to the beans or
wiien fried like bacon. The regulation
meat of the wilderness is bacon, and
5 lb. of it is carried in a tin or bag.
Carry along 3 lb. of lard in a tin or
bag, for bread-making and frying.
About 3 lb. of butter is carried in a
friction-top tin. For making rice pud-
dings, take along 1 lb. of raisins. About
1 lb. of shredded codfish is good for
making fish balls. Other small arti-
cles, such as % lb. of tea ; 1 lb. of cof-
fee; 3 lb. of granulated sugar; 1 pt. of
molasses; 1 pt. of vinegar; 4 cans of
condensed milk ; 1 can of milk powder,
a good substitute for fresh milk ; 1 can
egg powder, good for making omelets
or can be scrambled; 1 lb. salt; 2 oz.
pepper; 1 package each of evaporated
potatoes, onions, and fruits, and 3
packages of assorted soup tablets.

This list is by no means complete,
but it will' suffice for the average per-
son on the average trip, since the occa-
sional addition of a fish or game will

help to replenish the stores. When
going very light by pack, only the most
compact and nutritious foods should be
selected, while on short, easy trips the
addition of canned goods will supply a
greater variety.

Woodcraft

WHiile shooting and fishing and
camping out are chapters in the book
of woodcraft, the word is generally de-

'Mm

A Limb Supported at an Angle over the Fire Is
Another Means of Hanging the Pot

fined to mean the knack of using the
compass, the map, and in making use
of the natural signs of the woods when
traveling in the wilderness. If the
camper keeps to the beaten paths and
does not stray far from the frequently
used waterways, he needs no compass,
and sufficient knowledge of the ways
of the woods may be acquired from
the previous articles, but if the outer
ventures into an unknown region the
value of more intimate knowledge in-
creases as the distance to civilization
lengthens, because it will enable him
to keep traveling in the desired direc-
tion and prevent the "insane desire to
circle,"' should one discover he has lost
the trail.

The Emergency "Snack" and Kit

The woodsman well knows that it is
an easy matter to stray farther from
camp than he intended to when start-
ing out, and that it is a common enough
occurrence to lose one's bearings and
become temporarily lost. To prepare
for this possible emergency and spend
a comfortable night away from the

120

camp, he carries in his pocket a Httle
packet of useful articles and stows
away a tiny package containing a
small amount of nutritious food. W hen
leaving camp for
a day's hunting
and fishing, the
usual lunch is,
of course, includ-
ed, but in addi-
tion to this, the
woodsman
should carry a
couple of soup
tablets, a piece
of summer sau-
sage, and some tea. Wrap this in oiled
silk, and pack it in a i^at tin box. It
will take up very little room in the
pocket.

The emergency kit is merely a small
leather pouch containing a short fish-
ing line ; a few fishing hooks ; 1 ft. of
surgeon's adhesive plaster; needle and
thread; a few safety pins, and a small
coil of copper or brass wire. These
articles, with the gun and a few spare
cartridges, or rod ; a belt knife ; match
safe; compass; map; a little money,
pipe, and tobacco, make up the personal
outfit without which few woodsmen
care to venture far from camp. In ad-
dition to the above, I carry a double-
edge, light-weight ax, or tomahawk, in
a leather sheath at the belt and a tin
cup strung to the back of the belt,
where it is out of the way and unno-
ticed until wanted.

The Compass

A small pocket compass affixed to a
leather thong should be carried in the
breast pocket and fastened to a button
of the shirt. An instrument costing $1
will be accurate enough for all pur-
poses. Many of the woodsmen as well
as the Indians do not tise a compass,
but even the expert woodsman gets
lost sometimes, and it may happen that
the sun is obscured by clouds, thus
making it more difficult to read the
natural signs of the wilderness. The
compass is of little value if a person
does not know how to use it. It will
not tell in what direction to go, but

when the needle is allowed to swing
freely on its pivot the blue end always
points to the magnetic north. The
true north lies a degree or more to
either side. In the West, for instance,
the needle will be attracted a trifle to
the east, while on the Atlantic coast it
will swing a trifle to the west of the
true north. This magnetic variation
need not be taken into account by the
woodsman, who may consider it to
point to the true north, for absolute
accuracy is not required for this pur-
pose. However, I would advise the
sportsman to take the precaution of
scratching on the back of the case these
letters, B = N, meaning blue equals
north. If this is done, the novice will
be certain to remember and read the
compass right no matter how confused
he may become on finding that he has
lost his way. The watch may be used
as a compass on a clear day by point-
ing the hour hand to the sun, when the
point halfway between the hour hand
and 12 will be due south.

The compass needle is attracted to
iron and steel, therefore keep it away
from the gun, hatchet, knife, and other
metal articles.
Hold the com-
pass level and
press the stop, if
it has one, so
that the needle
may swing free.
Note some land-
mark, as a prom-
inent tree, high
clift", or other
conspicuous ob-
ject lying in the
direction of trav-
el, and go direct-
ly to this object.
Consult the compass frequently when
making a detour, or when the landmark
passes out of sight. When this mark
is reached, select another farther on
and continue the travel, always pick-
ing out new marks along the line indi-
cated by the compass. When making
camp, consult a map, study it, and so
gain a good general idea of the sur-
rounding country ; and when leaving

121

camp, take the bearings from the
compass. By so doing a person will
know in what direction he is traveling,
and when the course is changed, keep
the general direction in mind. When
climbing a hill or making detours, take
a mental note of the change in direction
and the bearings will not be lost.

Maps

The maps of the U. S. Geological
Survey are drawn to a scale of 2 in. to
the mile and cost 5 cents each. On
the back of each map are printed the

rises just south of east and sets some-
where south of due west. Therefore,
if a person is going north, he should
keep the sun on the back and to the
right shoulder in the morning hours ;
full on the back at noon, and on the

t- ^m^

Ssia

symbols showing the character of the
land, the contours, roads, and all im-
portant rivers and lakes in the district.
For convenience, the map should be
pasted on a backing of cotton cloth
and then cut up into handy sections.
Number the sections from left to right
and paste a key to the pieces on the
back of one of them.

Natural Signs

When traveling through underbrush
the woodsman cannot see far ahead,
and so lays a true course by noting the
position of the sun. For example, here
in the northern hemisphere the sun

Note Some Landmark, as a Prom-
^ inent Tree. High Cliff, or Other
•^- Conspicuous Object Lying in the
Direction of Travel and Go Directly to the
Object, and Look for the Old Blaze Marks

back and over the left shoulder
throughout the afternoon.

If the day is cloudy, set the point of
a knite blade on the thumb nail, twist
It around until the full shadow is cast
on the nail, thus indicating the position
of the sun.

The direction of the wind is apt to
change and for this reason is an unre-
liable guide, while the so-called signs
of the woods, such as the tips of ever-
green trees pointing north, bark being
thicker on the north side of trees, or
moss growing thicker on the north side
of the trees, are by no means to be de-
pended upon. There is absolutely
nothing in these signs. However, every
woodsman is aware that the foliage of
trees grows somewhat thicker on the
south side, and that the branches are
rather shorter and more knotty on the
north side, but these and other signs
are scarcely infallible, and if they were,
few tenderfeet would recognize them.

When traveling by night, look for
the Big Dipper or Great Bear, as the
two end stars are known as the point-
ers, pointing to the north star.

123

Marking the Trail
When traveling over old and blind
trails, look for the old blaze marks,
and if doubtful about them, make new
ones by breaking down the brushes
every 15 or 20 ft., the bent part point-
ing in the direction of travel. If a road
is encountered, it is easy to tell if it
is a tote or logging road, for tote roads
are crooked and wind about the trees
and rocks, while the logging road is
fairly straight and broad. Of course,
tote roads lead nowhere in particular,
but all logging roads are sure to come
to a fork and lead to water. When
breaking a new trail, blaze it by taking
a single clip from a tree from the side
it is approached, and on the opposite
side make two blazes, indicating the
way from the camp. If this is done, a
person will always know the way back
if the trail is crossed from side to side.
This is the rule of the wilderness, but
is not always observed to the letter,
for many woodsmen blaze their trail
by clipping the trees as they pass them.
Be sure to blaze your own trail cor-
rectly, and when you come to a place
where two roads or trails fork, set a
stick to indicate the right direction.
When a person becomes lost in the

woods, as every woodsman is sure to
do sometimes, sit down and think it
over. Many times a person is nearer
camp and companions than it is possi-
ble to realize, and if a straight direc-
tion is taken, a lumber road or a stream
will be found that will give one his
bearings. Above all, do not become
frightened. If the emergency kit and
lunch have not been forgotten, a day
and night in the woods alone is not a
hardship by any means. Avoid wast-
ing energy by rushing madly about
and forgetting to blaze the trail that is
being made. Bend the points of the
brushes down in the direction of travel.
Do not shoot the last cartridge to at-
tract attention, and do not shout until
hoarse. Sit down and build a fire of
green wood, damp leaves or moss, so
that it will smoke. Build a second fire
a short distance from the first. This
is the recognized signal of the one who
is lost. The afternoon may be windy,
but the wind is certain to die away at
sundown, and the smoke rising from
the fires will be visible from a consid-
erable distance. When an Indian gets
lost he merely camps on the spot and
awaits the next day for picking up the
trail.

A Camp Water Bag

While out on a camping trip I de-
vised a way to supply the camp with
cool water. A strip of heavy canvas
was cut about 2'
ft. long and 1 ft.
wide, and the
edges were sewed
up to make a sack
1 ft. square. In
one upper corner
a large porcelain
knob insulator
was sewed in for
a mouth piece ; the
groove around it
made a water-tight joint with the cloth.
Two metal rings were sewed in the
cloth at the top for attaching a strap
to carry it. The side and top seams
were made as tight as possible.

In use this sack was filled with as
cool water as possible and tightly
corked. It was then hung in the shade
where a breeze would strike it. The
water gradually seeped through the
cloth and this, in evaporating, kept the
contents cool. This sack also came in
handy while fishing or on the road. —
Contributed by Earl Zander, Three
Rivers, Mich.

A Mold for Making Hollow Candy
Figures

Those semitransparent candies made
up in the shapes of animals which are
brought out for the holidays and are so
dear to the children have caused many
to desire to know how they are made
hollow. It is a little trick of the candy-
maker, which is perfectly clear to me-
chanics. The candies are cast in metal

123

molds just as babbitt bearings are cast
for motor cars. One-half of such a
mold is shown in the sketch. A con-
cave recess in the face gives the shape
of a horse, dog, or sheep, and another
half with a similar recess is laid on and
located with two dowels. In use the
halves are set on a table resting on
the back face A, the hot liquid is poured
in at B until the mold is full, then it is
allowed to set for a minute, during
which the portion in contact with the
cold metal hardens, whereupon the
mold is turned over and the still liquid
center is poured out. This leaves a

One-Half of a Mold Cut in Metal and Used in Pairs
to Make Hollow Candy Objects

glossy surface like candy, a delight to
the child, that saves money for the
maker and because of its thin walls
makes eating easy.

Ornamenting an Old Tree Stump

An old stump remaining after cut-
ting down a large tree in front of a
house was made
into an orna-
mental object in
the following
manner: A cap
was made of con-
crete, reinforced
with a square
piece of netting.
A concrete vase
w a s made and
set on the cap.
It is only neces-
sary to make a square box from a few
scrap boards of the desired size, built
up around the stump top. A neat mix-
ture of cement is made and poured in
around it, and allowed to set.

Marker for a Hat

A quick and convenient way of mark-
ing a hat is to take a visiting card and
cut it down in
the manner
shown in the il-
lustration, then
make two small
slits in the
sweatband of the
hat and insert
the ends of the
card. If the card
becomes soiled it
can be easily re-
placed with another. The address can
be added if desired. — Contributed by
James F. Hatch, Raleigh, N. C.

A Quickly Made Door Latch

A door latch that is efficient as well
as simple may be made by bending a
piece of iron rod
and pointing one
end, as shown in
the illustration,
then securing it
to the door with
staples; or small
rods may be bent
in the shape of a
staple and the ends threaded for nuts.
The door is locked by turning the han-
dle in the position shown by the dotted
lines and securing it with a padlock. —
Contributed by Claud M. Sessions,
Waynesville, 111.

An Electric Lure for Fish

Every good fisherman knows that a
light will attract fish. A simple light
can be made by taking a pint fruit jar,
cutting a Vi-'u. hole in the top of the
cover, inserting a piece of gas pipe in
the hole and soldering it to the cover.
Insulated wires are run through the
pipe, and a small electric globe is at-
tached to the ends in the jar. The
other ends of the wires are attached to
a pocket battery. The jar is placed
under water and the light turned on,
which attracts the fish.

ISf

A Table Box for Campers

By GEO. J. EASTER

A very useful combination packing
box and camp table may be made from
a coffee or other large box. If a box
with a three-ply top is available, it
makes a neat appearance, but this is
not essential. A box, 14 in. deep, 20
in. wide, and 29 in. long, outside meas-

The Strips in the Corners of the Boxes
Form Sockets for the Legs

urements, is convenient, as it will slip
under the seat of a spring wagon, and
is of such a size that a person's knees
will pass under it when used as a
table.

Saw the box in two on the center
line of the narrow way, making two
uncovered boxes of the same size and
depth. The "orners of each box should
be well braced on the outside, as
shown at A, Fig. 1. The strips B are
fastened to the inside of the box to

Each Half of the Box Inverted is Used as a
Table Top on the Legs

form sockets, C, for the legs. The
strips are I/2 in. thick, ly^ in. wide,
and as long as the box is deep. Four
legs, about 12 in. long and of such size

as to fit in the sockets, are used for
holding the boxes together in transit.
Rope handles are fastened in the ends
of each box, and also a hook and eye,
which are used to lock them togetii'er.

To pack the boxes place one half
open side up, and insert the legs, as
shown in Fig. 2. Then fill it and ex-
tend the packing to the level of the
leg ends ; slip the other half of the box
on the legs, and fasten the two with
the hooks. If properly roped, such a
box will be taken as baggage. Canvas,
and other articles which will be re-
moved at once upon arrival in camp,
rather than provisions, should be
packed in this box, so that it can be
converted into a table with the least
possible work.

To make one table, or two, of the
box, remove the packing legs and in-
sert long legs in the sockets of each
section. A set of eight legs, 30 in.
long, take up very little space, and
can be carried diagonally in the bottom
of the box. A piece of oilcloth can be
wrapped around them and used later
as a cover for the table. The legs
should fit loosely in the sockets to
provide for the swelling in damp
weather. Ordinarily they can be
wedged to make them rigid. The table
is shown in Fiar. 3.

Novel Homemade Picture Frames

Pictures can be mounted cheaply and
artistically on stiff paper, to make them
serviceable for decorating the summer
home or camp cottage, without having
them placed in a wooden frame. For
this purpose a "natural-surface" draw-
ing paper should be used, each sheet
being sufficiently large to allow a bor-
der all around. With the picture prop-
erly centered and marked oft", the frame
can be fixed. Sets of parallel slots can
be cut all around in the border, and a
suitable ribbon drawn through so that
it is held in place only by the narrow
strips of paper. On each of the four

135

corners, a rosette, or similar decora-
tion, can be placed. Ribbons harmoniz-
ing with the subject of the picture
should be used ; for example, a marine
scene could have a blue ribbon ; fields
and brooks, some shade of green ; while
flowers would probably be best set oiif
by some delicate pink shade.

Another means of decorating the bor-
der is to choose some appropriate illus-
tration from a newspaper, or magazine,
and carefully trace this outline with
carbon paper all around the frame.
These figures could then be colored as
desired. Profile pictures are best for
such work, as they are most easily
traced. To be in harmony with the
picture, cuts such as captains, sailors,
or ships would be suitable for marine

SBEi;^

(PICTURE

'"h1 cardboard

l«h

-RIBBON

The Edges of Cardboard Extending Out from a
Picture Made to Represent a Frame

scenes; soldiers and guns, for war
scenes; and trees or flowers, for land-
scapes.— Contributed by J. B. Murphy,
Plainfield, N. J.

Rectangular Opening to Use over
Camera View Finder

Ordinary view finders on cameras,
having the cut-out in the shape of a
Maltese cross, are quite confusing to
some camera users. To overcome this
difficulty, I cut a piece of celluloid
to the shape shown, and in taking a
picture, the proper opening is held

The Rectangular Opening Allows Only That Portion

of the View to be Seen Which will

Show on the Picture

over the view finder so that only the
view that will appear in the picture can
be seen. — Contributed by E. Everett

Buchanan, Elmira, N. Y.

Clipping File Made of Envelopes

Handy pockets for holding notes, or
small articles, may be made by any-
one from ordinary envelopes. The

The Flaps Hold All the Envelopes Together,
Producing a File of Several Compartments

gummed flaps of the envelopes are
stuck together after spacing the en-
velopes to allow a small margin at
the end on which the contents of each
separate pocket may be written. — Con-
tributed by H. Goodacre, Wolcott, Ind.

Handle for a Drinking Glass

Measure the bottom part of the glass
and make a band of copper that will
neatly fit it. The
ends of the cop-
per can be riv-
eted, but if a
neat job is de-
sired, flatten or
file the copper
ends on a slant,
and braze or
solder them to-
gether.

Attach to the
band an upright
copper piece a little longer than the
glass is high. To this upright piece a
bent piece of copper to form a handle
is riveted or soldered. The glass is set
in the band and the upper end of the
vertical piece is bent over the glass
edge. — Contributed by William King,
Monessen, Pa.

CA simple and handy pincushion can
be made of a large cork fastened to
any support or base with a nail or
screw.

■,i/.~:-ft-'riy

Combination Camp-Kitchen Cabinet and Table

By J. D. BOYLAN

THE combination camp-kitchen
cabinet and table is the result of
not being able to take the members of
my family on an outing unless they
could have some home conveniences
on the trip, and perhaps the sketch and
description may help solve the same
problem for others. The table will ac-
commodate four persons comfortably,
and extra com-
partments may be
added if desired.
The cabinet, when
closed, is strong
and compact, and
if well made with
a snug- fitting
cover, is bug-
proof, and the
contents will not
be injured great-
ly, even though
drenched by rain
or a mishap in a
craft.

For cofifee, tea,
sugar, salt, etc., I
used small screw-
top glass jars.
They are set in
pocket shelves at
both ends. When
closed, one can sit
on the box or
even walk on it if
necessary when
in the boat, and if an armful or two of
coarse marsh grass is spread over it,
the contents will keep quite cool, even
when out in the hot sun. When open
for use, the metal table top F is sup-
ported on metal straps, E, which also
act as braces and supports for the table

leaf, G, on each side of the box. This
afifords plenty of table surface and one
can easily get at the contents of the
cabinet while cooking or eating. The ■
legs, D, are stored inside of the box
when closed for traveling. They are
held in place under metal straps when
in use, and held at their upper ends by
the metal plate and blocks, B and C.
The bent metal
pieces, A, on the
ends of the top,
spring over the
blocks at B and
C, and form the
handles.

This Outfit Provides Accommodations for
Four Persons, and Folds Compactly

13 in. in diameter.

A Homemade
Life Buoy

A serviceable
circular life buoy
may be made by
sewing together
rings of canvas,
filling the result-
ing form with
ground cork, and
waterproofing the
covering. Cut two
disks of canvas
about 30 in. in
diameter, and cut
out a circular por-
tion from the cen-
ter of each, about
Sew the pieces to-

gether at their edges, leaving a small
opening at a point on the outer edge.
Fill the cover with cork used in pack-
ing grapes, and sew up the opening.
Paint the buoy thoroughly, with white
lead, and attach hand grips of rope.

127

Locking Device for Latch Hook
on Gate or Door

The troublesome opening of a latch
hook on a gate or door, permitting in-
truders to enter or possibly injuring
the door in the
wind, can be
easily overcome
by fitting a small
catch over the
hook, as indi-
c a t e d in the
sketch. The U-
shaped locking
device is cut
from a piece of tin, and fastened on the
screw over which the hook is set.
When locked, it is pushed back over
the head of the hook, and cannot be
easily jarred out of place.

Hill Mi

mil inn \

LOCKED ^

OPEN) ^~^,y

A Vanishing-Cuff Parlor Trick

A trick which is interesting and
amusing for the entertainment of the
home audience, is performed with a
derby hat and a gentleman's cuff. The
efifect is produced as follows : The per-
former takes the derby from his head
and shows that it is empty. He re-
moves one of his cuffs and drops it into
the hat. He tips the hat over so that
the spectators can see the inside, and
the hat appears empty. He then shakes
his arm, and the white cuff reappears,
whereupon he places the hat back on
his head. The explanation is simple :
The white cuff', dropped into the hat,
contains a false cuff link, and the in-
side of the cuff is painted black. A
thread holds the cuff in shape until the
latter is dropped into the hat, when the
thread is broken without the specta-
tors being aware of it. The cuff just
fits into the hat, and its ends are deftly
snapped beneath the hatband, the hat
thus appearing empty. The duplicate
cuff is kept on the forearm of the per-
former, and with a shake, slides into
place. — ]\Ierritt Hale, Hartford, Conn.

Inexpensive Table Lamp Made
of Electrical-Fixture Parts

A small table lamp that is light and
easily portable, can be made at a cost
of less than $1 from electrical-fixture
parts, either old
or purchased at
a supply store
for the job. The
base is a bracket,
with its brass
canopy inverted,
as shown. The
upright is a %-
in. brass pipe,
and it is fitted to
a standard
socket. The
shade holder can
be made com-
plete from a strip
of tin and two
wires ; or adapted
from a commer-
cial shade holder used for candlesticks.
Various types of shades, homemade if
desired, can be used.

CA little fresh developer added occa-
sionally to old developing solutions will
bring them up ir? speed and intensity.

Wire Holders Keep Cabinet
Doors Open

Doors of cabinets often have an an-
noying tendency to swing shut when
articles are being removed from the
shelves. To overcome this trouble with
a kitchen cabi-
n e t, I fitted
brackets of No. 9
gauge wire into
the sides of t h e
cabinet, the wire
being bent to the
shape shown in
the sketch.
^Vhen the doors
are to be held
open, the wires
are slid forward

from their original position, as indi-
cated by the dotted lines, and set in
front of the doors. Before the doors
are closed, the wires are quickly
snapped back into place. — A. S.
Thomas, Amherstburg, Ont., Canada.

128

"Switchboard" Protects Milker
from Cow's Tail

A simple and effective device for
guarding a person milking a cow from
being hit in the face by the cow's tail

The Legend Put On the "SwitcnDoard Dy tne Boys
Shows How They Value It

is made of a board, about 10 in. wide
and 5 ft. long. This is hung by two
wire hooks from a long wire running
lengthwise of the stable just over the
front edge of the gutter. It is moved
along with the milker and effectually
protects his face while milking. The
device was made by a Wisconsin farmer
after nearly losing the sight of an eye
in being hit by a cow's tail. He-
tried tying the tails of the cows while
milking them, but found by actual test
that some cows dropped down as much
as 25 per cent in milk production when
their tails were tied. The "switch-
board" gives the cows the necessary
freedom. — D. S. B., Wisconsin Live
Stock Breeders' Association.

Refiected-Light Illumination with
Homemade Arrangement

"Friend wife" does not complain any
longer because of poor light over the
kitchen stove. The windows in the
kitchen were so disposed that the liglit

was partly shut off" from the stove by
the person standing before it. I solved
the difficulty in this way : A small win-
dow was cut directly back of the stove,
in a partition between the kitchen and
an adjoining storeroom, locating it just
a few inches above the top of the stove.
A mirror was placed, after some ex-
perimenting, so that the light from an
outside window in the storeroom was
reflected through the small window in
the partition and onto the top of the
stove. Plenty of light was thus af-
forded. Various adaptations of this
arrangement may be worked out. — F.
E. Brimmer, Dalton, X. Y.

Bedroom Shade and Curtains Arranged
for Thorough Ventilation

Curtains, shades, and similar fixtures,
often interfere with the proper ventila-
tion of sleeping rooms. By arranging
these features as shown in the sketch,
the ventilation is not interfered with,
and the shades and curtains give the
same service as with the usual arrange-
ment. The curtains are hung singly on
hinged bars, which may be homemade
or those used as towel bars. Details of
the supports, at A and B, are shown in
the sketch. Two pairs of fixtures are
provided for the shade, permitting it to
be lowered at night, with free circula-
tion of the air at the top and bottom.
The shade is quickly raised, and the

This Arrangement of Curtains and Shade Permits
Thorough Ventilation in the Sleeping Room

curtains swung into their closed posi-
tion.— J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.

129

Coffee Grinder Repaired with
Rubber Faucet Plug

A rubber piece that held the glass
container on a wall cottee grinder wore
out, so that the glass would not stay-
in, putting the grinder out of commis-
sion. The piece worn out was a thick
rubber washer, tapered at one end to
form a hollow in the other, when in
place. I cut a section from the thick
end of a standard rubber faucet plug,
and shaped it to the form of the de-
sired washer. By removing the old
rivet carefully, I was able to use it in
fixing the new washer into place, and
the mill was soon grinding merril}-, as
of old.— ]\I. T. C, Chicago, 111.

Coal Hod Made from Iron Pipe

When my coal hod became worn
out, I made one of a length of 8-in.
galvanized-iron pipe, and found it to
be handier and stronger
than the kind I had used.
I fitted the pipe with an
iron handle and with a bail
of strong wire, set in metal
eyes riveted to the pipe.
The upper end was cut to
the curved shape shown,
and the lower
end square, and
holes were
punched along
the edge for
fastening it with
nails to the dou-
ble bottom of wood. Three wooden
pads were set under the bottom, so
that the hod stands easily on a spot
that is not quite level. — T. E. Roberts,
Toronto, Canada.

BOTTOM
VIEVV

Frayed Shoe Laces Repaired
with Pitch or Wax

When the tag or end fastening comes
oft' of a shoe lace, take a little black
sealing wax, and press it carefully
around the end of the lace and shape
it to a point. This will last a long time,
and does away with the annoyance of
frayed lace ends.

An Enameled Armchair Made
of Wooden Strips

An armchair suitable for a dressing
table was made by a handy woman
from pine strips. The photograph

The Simple Construction of This Neat Armchair

Makes It an Attractive Job for the

Amateur Craftsman

shows the simple and pleasing lines of
the construction. Aside from the board
seat, only three sizes of wood are used,
2 by 3 in., 1 by 3 in., and 14 by 3 in.
The pieces are fastened with screws,
round-head brass ones being used at ex-
posed points. The seat is wider from
side to side than from front to back.
Two coats of white paint and one of
white enamel give a good finish.

The dimensions may be varied to
suit individual needs. Sizes suggested
are : back. 32 in. high and 2-i in. wide ;
side, 26 in. to top of arm and 19 in.
wide ; seat, 17 in. from floor, 18 in. from
front to back, and 20 in. wide between
the front supports. The stock is all
planed up square to dimensions, and
sandpapered smooth. The ends should
be cut squarely in a miter box, with a
fine-toothed saw, and then sandpapered
smooth, taking care not to round the
ends. — A. May Holaday, Chico, Calif.

130

A Curling-Iron Heater

Heating of curling irons is a not un-
common source of fires, and to min-
imize this danger, an electrical heating

This Efficient Electric Heater for Curling Irons can

be Made Quickly and Is Safer to Use

than an Open Flame

device is valuable. In the arrangement
shown, a long candle-shaped incandes-
cent lamp is mounted in a suitable can,
or metal tube, to form the body of the
heater. This should be bright, both
inside and out, and preferably nickeled.
Two irons can be heated by setting
them in the holes in the top. Four
small brackets, soldered, as shown,
around the edge of the can, hold it to
the base. A porcelain lamp receptacle
is used, mounted on a base block. Stain,
fill, and finish the wood as desired. In
assembling the parts, screw the re-
ceptacle to the base, and connect the
flexible cord through a suitable hole.
Screw in the lamp, and fasten down
the body. — John D. Adams, Phoenix,
Arizona.

A Stepmother for Incubator Chicks

The best imitation mother hen for
incubator chicks that we have found.
is built by attaching rag strings to the
bottom of an inverted cracker, or sim-
ilar, box, which accommodates 2 doz.
chicks. The rag pieces are torn 1 in.
wide, from coarse cloth or gunny sack-
ing, and their loose ends just touch the
floor. They are placed close together.

An inlet to the mother box is cut in
the edge of it. The chicks huddle in
among the string rags, keeping safe and
warm, whereas without such an ar-
rangement, they may crowd together
too closely, and some of them be
smothered. — J. Cecil Alter, Salt Lake
City, Utah.

A Cardboard Writing and Drawing
Pad

Where neatness is desired in the
writing of themes, manuscripts, etc.,
especially if sketches are set into the
copy, a homemade writing and drawing
pad is useful. The one shown in the
sketch can be made easily, and is a
handy device for school children as well
as older persons. The paper is placed
under the guide strips, as shown, and
is moved along under the sliding
straightedge as desired. Drawing in-
struments can be used handily along
the straightedge, as indicated. The
pad is built up as detailed in the sec-
tional views. The general dimensions
can be varied. The bottom piece is Yg-
in. cloth board. The second layer is
^-32 in. thick and of cardboard ; the next
is Mc"iri. cardboard, and the upper
layer is ^^-in- cloth board, similar to
the straightedge. The latter rests on
the projecting guides for the paper, and

PAPER SPACE--'

CARDBOARD

CUOTM BOAPC

Manuscripts with Drawings maybe Prepared Neatly

and Quickly by the Use of This Homemade

Writing Pad

is set between the shaded sidepieces. —
R. S. Edwards, \\'alla Walla. Wash.

Homemade Shoulder- Pack Tent

By J. D. BOYLAN

AFTER sleeping under various
kinds of canvas coverings and not
finding any of them entirely to my lik-
ing, I made the tent shown in the illus-
tration, which proved quite satisfac-
tory. It is of light weight, easily set
up or taken down, and when buttoned
closely is practi-
cally rain, wind,
and bug - proof.
The cost of mate-
rials necessary for
making it is com-
paratively slight. I
use it not only as
a sleeping tent
but also as a car-
ry-all in packing
camping equip-
ment. The can-
vas is supported
by frames made
of pliable
branches cut in
the woods.

The layout for
the canvas is
shown in the de-
tailed drawings.
The sections for
the ends are made
of three pieces,
one for the ground
and two, divided
vertically, for the
end covering. The
ground section of
the main portion
of the tent and the
covering are made
in one piece, 6 ft. wide, joined at the
middle, as shown. The adjoining
A are sewed together and the

Stakes, Rope Braces, and Supporting Poles are Not

Required for This Shoulder-Pack Tent, the

Supports being Cut at the Camp

edges B, which are set at the ridge of
the tent, are sewed, after the other
pieces are joined. Brass grommets are
fitted in the canvas, as indicated, and
the points of the supporting frames
pass through them in driving the sup-
ports into the ground. The shoulder
straps C are
placed so that
they are in posi-
tion when the tent
is folded, and
rolled into a pack.
Other equipment
may be placed in-
.side of it. The
tent supports D
are pointed at the
ends E, and are
twisted together
at the top. The
ridge pole F
steadies them and
holds the canvas
at the middle.

To set up the
tent, lay the can-
vas flat on the
ground and place
the supports,
twisted together,
through the grom-
mets. Spring them
into the ends of
the canvas, and
insert the ridge
pole by springing
it between the
supports. The
canvas is 8-oz.

edges

duck, and the fastenings used are snap
buttons ; buttonholes, buckles, or har-
ness snaps may also be used.

131

Kitchen for Hikers

By PRESTON HELLER

WITH a view to provide all the
needs of a commissary depart-
ment for 36 boys for a period of four
days, either on a hike or in a perma-
nent camp, the kitchen illustrated was
constructed. As it is placed on two
wheels, which are removed when the
kitchen is in use, it can be moved from
one day's camp to another by attach-
ing it to the rear of a horse-drawn
wagon by means of a shaft. When the
wheels are removed the entire outfit
rests on legs, which are swung down
from the bottom. The sides and one
end are opened by swinging one half
up and resting it on the top, while the
other half swings down to a horizontal
position where it is used as a work
board, making all parts easily ac-
cessible.

The outside dimensions of the
kitchen, when closed and in the form
of a large box on wheels, are 5 ft. 3 in.
long, 3 ft. wide, and 2i'o ft. high. The
main feature of this entire kitchen is
its compactness. At the front, and ex-
tending about 1 ft. back, is a kitchen
cabinet where the plates, sugar, salt,
flour, etc., are kept in separate com-
partments. Here also are found the
necessary cooking utensils, such as
bread knives, butcher knives, cleaver,
cooking spoons, pancake turner, sieves,
large forks, lemon squeezer, etc. ; and
on the shelves of galvanized iron small
boxes and packages of baking powder,
cocoa, etc., are placed. This entire
compartment, as well as all others
where food is handled and prepared, is
lined with No. 2S gauge galvanized iron
which makes sanitation a feature also.

Upon passing around to one side
there can be seen a large three-shelved
oven, 21 in. wide, which is heated by
a gasoline burner. Between the burner
and the bottom of the oven are located
coils of pipe for heating water, and
these coils are connected with a tank
of 'i'-gal. capacity, located just above
the oven. An air valve and glass
gauge are attached to the tank.

The next compartment to the rear
is a large storage space, extending all

the way through the kitchen, and a

2V2-gal. forged-copper gasoline tank
occupies a shelf in the upper portion of
this space. At the rear end along this
side are located nickelplated faucets
which are connected with the hot-
water tank mentioned ; a T-gal., white-
enameled milk tank above; an 18-gal.
cold-water tank, and an ice-water tank,
used when distilled-water ice can be
secured. These faucets all drain into
a small sink, which, in turn, drains off
through an ordinary sink drain to a
hole dug in the ground beneath it.
Practically the entire rear end of
the kitchen is occupied by the large
water tanks, ice box, and milk tanks,
with the exception of a small space at
the bottom where the silverware is
kept in a drawer.

On the other side, and to the rear,
two compartments above and below
the large water tank form excellent
storage space for ham, bacon, sausage,
preserves, butter, etc., which need to
be kept in a cool place. Next in line
is the other end of the large storage
place which extends through from the
other side. Pans, pails, canned goods,
larger packages, etc., are kept in this
space.

Immediately to the rear of the
kitchen cabinet, on this side, are lo-
cated compartment shelves where the
tin cups are kept, and adjoining this is
found a three-compartment steam
cooker. By having the cups and plates
near this steam cooker, which is also
heated by a gas burner, there is less
danger from rust, as they are kept thor-
oughly dried. Wherever there is a gas-
oline burner the compartment in which
it is located is not only lined with gal-
vanized iron, but asbestos in sheets is
placed on the inner side, so that the
heat will not ignite the interior packing
or the woodwork. The tanks are ac-
cessible from the top of the kitchen for
filling and cleaning, and are packed
with ground cork.

The kitchen has shown its efficiency
by giving satisfactory service in camps
of many members.

132

The Portable Kitchen Outfit Opened. Exposing the Various Compartments Arranged So as to Be Convenient:
Above, Stove and Cooking Compartments; Below, Pantry Compartment and Space for Utensils

133

134

Bird House Made of Kegs

Two ordinary nail kegs, or other
small kegs, will
make a good bird
house. They
should be
mounted on a
square post with
braces of light
wood, as shown.
The openings for
the entrance can
be cut in the
ends or sides, as
desired. If cut

in the sides, be sure to make the hole

between two staves.

To make a

A Drinking-Glass Holder

make a glass holder quickly,
shape a wire as
shown in the sketch.
The wire should be
of sufficient size to
hold the glass firmly.
It is fastened to the
wall, or support,
with a screw and a
staple. — Contribut-
ed by Edwin P.
Stott, Chicago, 111.

Needle Threader for a Sewing Machine

The threader consists of two brass
pieces riveted together so that they will
make an extension conical hole for the
thread to enter free-
ly. The length of the
pieces should be such
that when the upper
end of the threader
is placed against the
needle-holder end,
the conical hole will
coincide with the
hole in the needle.
A piece of thin sheet metal is placed
between the pieces above the conical
hole to make an opening below for the
thread to pass through when the
threader is removed. The opposite

edges of the brass pieces from the large
part of the conical hole are filed to a
bevel so that when they are riveted
together they will form a V-shaped
groove to center the needle. — Contrib-
uted by Harriet AI. Kerbaugh, Allen-
town, Pa.

Winding Coiled Springs

When a helical spring is needed
badly, one can be made up quickly by
winding the wire around in the threads
of an ordinary
bolt. An accu-
rate spring can
be formed, and
the pitch be-
tween each coil
will be exact for
the entire length.
In removing the spring from the bolt,
grasp the coil in one hand and turn the
bolt with the other.

iHOLE

END VIEW

Revolving-Wheel Ruling Pen

A ruling pen that will do neat work
and not leave any ink on the ruler,
and which with its small ink fount
draws many
lines at one fill-
ing, can be made
from an old dis-
carded revolv-
ing-wheel glass
cutter. A Vs-in-
hole is drilled in the body, or handle
part, just above the wheel. The hole is
filled with a piece of felt— a piece cut
from an old felt hat will do— rolled to
fit snugly, so that it will bear lightly
against the wheel. The felt is soaked
with the ink to be used, and the pen
is ready for use.— Contributed by Bert
Fish, Rochester, N. Y.

CAn excellent method of closing a
crack in a wall before papering is to
paste a thin strip of linen over the
crack. This not only makes a smooth
job, but prevents the paper from tear-
ing, should the crack widen.

A Portable Folding Boat

By STANLEY L. SWIFT

A BOAT that is inexpensive, easily
made, and readily transported is
shown in the illustration. Since the
bow section folds inside of the stern
portion, it is important that the dimen-
sions be followed closely. The material
used is %-in. throughout.

]\Iake a full-size diagram of the plan
to determine the exact sizes of the
pieces. Brass screws are best for fas-
tening this type of work, but copper-
plated nails may be used. Tongued-
and-grooved stock is best for the bot-
tom. The joints should not be driven
together too firmly, to allow for expan-
sion, and all joints in the boat should
be packed with red lead or pitch.

The adjoining ends of the sections
should be made at the same time, to

insure a satisfactory fit when joined.
Braces are fixed into the corners.

]\Ietal straps hold the sections to-
gether at the bottom of the hinged
joints. These should be fitted so that
there is little possibility of their becom-
ing loosened accidentally. The front
end of each strip is pivoted in a hole,
and the other end is slotted vertically
on the lower edge. Their bolts are
set firmly into the side of the boat,
being held with nuts on both sides of
the wood. A wing nut, prevented from
coming off by riveting the end of the
bolt, holds the slotted end. Sockets
for the oars may be cut into hardwood
pieces fastened to the gunwales. The
construction of the seats is shown in
the small sketch at the left.

BOAT FOLDED

The Construction of
the Portable Boat
Is Simple. When
Folded It may be
Transported Readily
and may Even be
Carried in Three
Parts. It Is Inex-
pensive, and should
Prove a Valuable
Addition to the
Camping Outfit

135

136

Nontangling Pasture Stake

An old carriage wheel and axle were
•antag(
of the pasture stake

used to good advantage in the making

shown in the

-./r^it ■&■

The Wheel Revolves on the Stake, Preventing
the Rope from Tangling

sketch. When the animal tethered to
the wheel walks around the stake, it is
])ractically impossible for the rope to
become tangled, as the wheel revolves
on the axle. — Contributed by W. F.
Ouackenbush, New York, N. Y.

Inkstand Made of a Sheet of Paper

Drawings are not infrequently
ruined by the spilling of ink, which
might have been averted by the use

cur AND TURN UP

sketch. The upper illustration shows
the method of cutting the paper to fit
the ink bottle and stopper, and to pro-
duce a pen rack. The device will be
found especially useful when materials
for drawing are used away from a place
especially fitted for the purpose, since
the inkstand can be made in a few min-
utes from material readily available. —
Contributed by Henry C. Franke, Jr.,
Philadelphia, Pa.

A Sheet of Heavy Paper Quickly Transformed into
a Holder for Ink Bottle and Pen

of the simple inkstand cut from a
sheet of heavy paper, as shown in the

How to Wind Wire on Electrical
Apparatus

\\'hen a beginner, it was the despair
of the writer to try to produce in his
homemade apparatus the mathematical
regularity and perfection of the wind-
ing on the coils of electrical instru-
ments in the supply stores, but when
he found that this professional and
workmanlike finish could be obtained
by means of a simple contrivance, and
a little care and attention to details be-
fore beginning, experimental work
took on a new interest.

At the outset let it be stated that
wire should never be wound directly
on the iron core, not only because it
cannot be done satisfactorily in that
manner, but for the reason that it is
often desired to remove a coil from a
piece of apparatus after it has served its
purpose. It is therefore advisable to
make a bobbin, which consists of a
thin, hard tube with two ends. The
tube may be easily formed by wrapping
a suitable length of medium-weight pa-
per on the core, having first coated it
with ordinary fish glue, excepting, of
course, the first 2 or 3 in. in direct con-
tact with the core. \\'ind tightly until
the thickness is from ^'jo in- to ^ic in.,
depending upon the diameter of the
core, and then wrap with string until
the glue hardens, after which the tube
ma}' be sandpapered and trimmed up as
desired.

\\'here the wire is not of too small
a gauge and is not to be wound to too
great a depth, no ends will be neces-
sary if each layer of wire is stopped
one-half turn before the preceding one,
as indicated in the accompanying

13T

sketch, and is also thoroughly shel-
lacked. With ordinary care magnet
wire may be wound in this manner to
a depth of over one-half inch.

The tube having been made ready,
with or without ends as may be neces-
sary, the small winding jig illustrated
is to be made. All that is essential is
to provide a suitable means for rotat-
ing by hand a slightly tapering wood
spindle, upon which the tube is to be
pushed. The bearings can be just
notches made in the upper ends of two
standards, through each of which a
hole is drilled at right angles to the
length of the spindle, so that some
string or wire may be laced through
in order to hold the spindle down. A
crank maj^ be formed by winding a
piece of heavy wire around the larger
end of the spindle. A loop of wire, or
string, is to be attached at some con-
venient point, so that the crank may be
held from unwinding while adjusting
matters at the end of each layer, or
while making a connection. There
should also be provided a suitable sup-
port for the spool of wire, which is gen-
erally placed below the table to good
advantage. Much depends, in this sort
of work, upon attention to these small
details, after which it will be found that

Winding a Coil of Wire so That the Layers will be
Even and Smooth

the actual winding will require very
little time. — Contributed by John D.
Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.

CA No. 10 gauge shotgun cartridge
shell telescoped with a No. 13 gauge
shell forms a convenient match safe
for campers, or other persons out of
doors, and is moisture-proof.

Hourglass Sewing Basket

Two oblong peach baskets, their
bottoms fastened together and the
whole covered with .silk, formed the

Artistic Effects may be Produced by the
Inventive Woman

hourglass sewing or darning basket
shown in the sketch. Square plum
baskets and other forms trimmed in
cretonne, linen, or inexpensive goods,
depending on the intended use, may
also be utilized. Ornamental details
may be added to suit the individual
taste.

The basket was made as follows:
The peach baskets were wired together
at their bottoms. A piece of silk was
cut, wide enough to reach from the top
to the bottom of the joined baskets and
to permit the folding over of a portion
at the top and bottom. One long edge
of the piece was glued to the inner edge
of the bottom and drawn in around the
sides to form neat folds. The upper
edge of the silk was then glued in the
top, being folded over the edge.

A cord was fixed around the middle
of the basket, as shown in the sketch.

138

A lining was glued into the top and
bottom. It was folded and stitched
along its edges to prevent raveling and
to give a smooth finish. The bottom
need not be lined, but it is desirable to
have it so.

The pincushion was made by pad-
ding a block with cotton and then cov-
ering it with silk. A cardboard box
may be used instead. The cushion was
nailed into place from the bottom. Rib-
bon may be used to draw the silk to the
sides of the basket at the middle, and
a cushion may be made entirely of cot-
ton or cloth and attached with ribbons.
— Contributed by Thomas J. Mac-
gowan, Mount Vernon, N. Y.

A Perpetual-Motion Puzzle

The fallacy of perpetual motion is
now so generally understood that the
description of a new scheme for attain-

The Interaction between
Poles of the Magnets Causes the
Traveler to Move around the Triangle

ing it is only justified in so far as
it may be instructive. The sketch illu-s-
trates such a device, apparently suc-
cessful, and the discovery of the error
in it is both instructive and interesting.

Mount a horseshoe magnet on a
wooden base, and into the latter cut a
continuous groove along the three sides
of a triangle opposite the poles of the
magnet, N and S. Suspend a long,
narrow bar magnet on a universal joint
from a standard. A pin projects into
the groove from the lower end, which
is its north pole, and can move only
along the triangular course.

Start the device with the suspended
magnet in the position shown. The

lower end will tend to move in the di-
rection of the arrows, because in so
doing it is getting farther away from
the repelling north pole of the horse-
shoe magnet and nearer the attracting
south pole, which action will bring it
to the corner of the triangle in the fore-
ground. It will next move down the
side as indicated by the arrow, because
along that line it is nearer the attract-
ing south than the repelling north
pole. When it reaches the end of its
trip, at the angle between the poles of
the magnet, the attraction and repul-
sion will be balanced, but a slight jar
will carry the traveler beyond the
angle.

The third leg of the triangle will be
co\ered similarh", the north pole re-
pelling the traveler. On this basis the
motion should continue indefinitely,
but a test will show that it will not
do so.

The corners of the triangle should
be rounded slightly and it would be
better to use several hanging magnets,
flexibly connected, so that when one
is at the dead center the others will
carry the traveler on.

How to Transfer Drawings

Soiling of drawings transferred with
carbon paper may be avoided by sub-
stituting a piece of unfinished paper,
the surface of which has been covered
with a thin coating of lead rubbed
from the pencil. If any errors are
made in the tracing, or undue pressure
is applied with the hand, the resulting
impressions may be removed readily
with an eraser.

If a copy of a drawing is desired,
and it is not necessary that the same
relative left and right position be
maintained, the original pencil draw-
ing may be placed face downward on
a sheet of paper and the back of it
rubbed with a bone paper knife, or
other smooth, rounded object. By
going over the impression and making
a reverse of it in the same way a copy
of the original in the same relations
may be obtained. — Contributed by j.
E. Pouliot, Ottawa, Canada.

r^^t'-

Pivoted Searchlight Made of an Old Milk Strainer

By JOHN J. SPAULDING

BOTH as a safety device and a prac-
tical novelty, a homemade search-
liglit for a canoe, or other small craft,
is worth while making. An old milk
strainer was used for the reflector of
that shown, and many equally service-
able makeshifts can be devised easily
from old cans, or formed from sheet
metal. The detailed construction, as
indicated, is suggestive only, since local
conditions and materials available will
govern the design of the fittings. The
light has a double control, one cord
governing the vertical adjustment, and
another, arrangerl like that of a ship's
wheel, the hor-
izontal pivotal
range. The ver-
tical adjustment
is desirable, but
not essential.
The control
cords are run in
screw eyes along
the coaming of
the craft, so that

cells, stored under the bow deck, or in
a box set at some other convenient
place, suppl}^ the current for the 6-volt
lamp.

The main dimensions of the fittings,
as detailed, are : strainer, 10 in. in
diameter and 10 in. long; vertical sup-

MILK STRAINED

WOOD BLOC'

CONTROL CORD'

''■^t ^-iX^r,^

The Support for the Reflector is Pivoted in the Deck,
Reinforced as Indicated

one person can paddle the canoe, and
adjust the searchlight as well. Dry

Canoeing and Boating at Night Is Safer and More
Pleasurable if the Craft is Equipped with a Search-
light. This One was Made of Pick- Up Materials at
Small Cost

port, l^i/o in. over all, and 6 in. wide
at the upper portion ; the wood used
is 1'2 and ^'^ in. thick, except that for
the pivot post, which is 1 in. thick.
The reflector is fitted with a wooden
block through which the porcelain
socket is set, as shown. A knife switch.

139

140

placed near the stern of the craft, con-
trols the connection with the battery
circuit.

The inside of the reflector should be
])olished with emery cloth, and if the
surface is rough, it may be painted with
white enamel. The outer surfaces of
the metal part are painted black. The
wooden parts may be painted, or given
several coats of spar varnish, to with-
stand the weather.

Gravity-Feed Coal Hopper on Truck

In the large farm kitchen, in the
workshop, and even for firing a small
furnace, a coal hopper that will
hold consider-
able coal, and
that can be rolled
along the floor
easily, is a con-
venience. Such
an arrangement,
made from a sec-
tion of galvan-
ized-iron pipe,
10 in. in diameter
and 30 in. long,

The Large Capacity of the Hopper and the Ready

Portability of This Arrangement Are

Practical Features

is shown in the sketch. The pipe was
cut at one end, as shown, so that when
the coal was poured into the hopper, it
would feed out. A truck, mounted on
casters, was made, 12 in. wide, 5 in.
high, and 25 in. long. The hopper was
mounted on one end of it, and bolted
securely at the sides and end. The
coal is shoveled into the hopper at the
bin, and the load pushed to the furnace,
where it can be easily used as needed.
The construction can be made larger
for use with a coal scoop, in firing a
boiler or large furnace. — L. R. Mark-
wood, Factoryville, Pa.

Taking Photographs in Falling Snow

Falling snowflakes in a camera
photograph — the large feathery, slow-
falling kind — often make an exquisitely
beautiful picture out of a commonplace
scene. And while the great majority
of the attempts to get them prove fail-
ures, the photographer — usually an
amateur — needs only to provide an ave-
nue in front of his lens a short dis-
tance, that is free from falling flakes,
by the use of a shelter such as a tree
or porch. The slow snapshot neces-
sary in cloudy weather will not stop the
motion of the flakes nearest the camera,
and these passing through greater
angles of space in equal length of time
than those farther away, will blur on
the negative. We made some excellent
outdoor views in deep snow, while
heavy snow was falling, with flakes
splendidly decorating the darker re-
gions of figures and foliage, by holding
a felt hat and two umbrellas in a line
in front of the camera, and above the
range of the lens. — J. Cecil Alter,
Cheyenne, Wyo.

A Double-Contact Vibrator

A double-contact vibrator, which
eliminates sticking contacts, spring
troubles, and other sources of annoy-
ance, in addition to producing a fine,
high tone, is shown in the sketch. It
is an instrument easy to construct, by
reason of its simplicity. Special care
in making the vibrator D will insure
good vibration. The springs, holding
the contacts, are of phosphor bronze.
The contacts may be made of silver,
platinum, or other metals, which will
not burn and break contact. The coils

When the Vibrator Touches One Contact, the Coil

OR the Opposite Side Attracts the Vibrator,

This Process being Repeated Alternately

141

B are of the common bell-ringing type.
The springs on the vibr^itor should not
be too long, nor too weak ; experiment-
ing will determine the length at which
they will work best. The adju.stment
is made at the thumbscrews A. The
coils are supported on metal brackets,
bolted to a wooden base. The method
of hooking up the vibrator in the key
circuit is shown in the diagram. — J. L.
laylor, Barker, N. Y.

designs are possible, and the position
and size of the stumps available will
suggrest suitable construction. The

Battery Buzzer Converted into
a Telegraph Sounder

An ordinary battery buzzer may
readily be converted into a telegraph
sounder for use in practicing the Alorse
code. All that is necessary is to connect
the vibrator contact C of the buzzer
to the binding post that is not insulated
from the frame. The other connec-
tions of the key and battery are the
same as in any ordinary telegraph or
buzzer circuit. In the diagram, C rep-
resents the vibrator contact : D, the
tvire connecting the contact and the

The Amateur can Practice the Morse Code Handily
on This Sounder, Made from a Buzzer

uninsulated binding post, and F, the
uninsulated binding post ; E is the tel-
egraph key, and B, the dry cells. — Clar-
ence F. Kramer, Lebanon, Ind.

Lawn Seats Built on Tree Stumps

A practical use to which stumps, left
from the felling of trees, are put in a
city park is as supports for lawn
benches. This obviates the need of
grubbing them out, while the work of
preparing them to receive the seats is
less than would be required to remove
the stumps. Of course, the location of
the stump will determine whetlier it
is worth while as a support for a seat,
or had better be grubbed out. Many

WR?

^^^I^H^^'* ' ^¥^"ti

. ■■l^M^|PV6^jBV

These Practical Lawn Seats Show the Possibilities
of Stumps as Supports tor This Purpose. The Con-
versation-Chair Design Is Especially Interesting

woodwork for the seats is simple, and
the benches can be made removable
for the winter if desired. — C. L. Meller,
Fargo, N. D.

A Hinged Box Cover Made without
Hinges

When a wooden box with a hinged
cover is desired, especially a small one,
hinges are ijot always at hand, and are
sometimes difficult to obtain. LTnder
these circumstances a good substitute
is to make the box as shown in the
sketch, using the extension of one end
and nails, or screws, driven through the
back corners of the lid, as a hinge ar-
rangement. This
makes the use of
hinges unneces-
sary, and is serv-
iceable even for
permanent use.
Where hinges
projecting from
the surface of the
box are objec-
tionable, this
method of con-
struction is es-
pecially desir-
able. It is best to make the hinged
ends with the grain vertical, and to
round ofif the hinged corners of the
lid slightly.— R. J. Rohn, Chicago, 111.

143

Automatic Flash Light Snaps
Chicken-Coop Marauder

After the wire fence around the
chicken house had been torn up, and

This Photographic Evidence
Was Proof Positive as to the

HINGE
NAIL~

Identity of the Thief
Night

the place entered
13 nights in two
weeks, I decided
on more prepar-
edness. Various
ways and means
failed, so I used
a comparatively slight knowledge of
photography in the process.

I mounted my flash lamp on a piece
of board, 1 by 4 by 8 in. long, and
fastened this to a base, as shown. I
attached a weight to the lamp, whicli
was supported by a hinged drop, half-
way down the upright board, which in
turn was supported by a nail, to which
was attached a string. The flash was
set off by a slight pull of the string,
which dropped the weight. This con-
trivance I concealed in the chicken
yard, and the camera in the chicken
house. That night I opened the lens
of the camera in the dark, and at-
tached the string to a loose board in
the fence. The next morning, before
daybreak. I closed the lens again. The
flash had been set off during the night.
Also there were drops of blood on the
ground. I could hardly wait until the
plate was developed. The result, as
reproduced, was hardly what I ex-
pected.—H. U. Scholz. Medford, Ore.

A Fishing-Tackle Outfit
in a Shotgun Shell

At the camp or on the trail,
emergency fishing-tackle outfit
almost as handy as matches, compass,
and knife, and it may even be the means
of saving one's life. A convenient way
to carry such an outfit is in two old
shotgun shells, telescoped. The hooks,
on a cork, and the sinkers are fitted
snugly into the shell. Several yards
of line are then wound on the outside.
This outfit can be stowed into a pocket
handily, always ready for use. — E.
Everett Buchanan, Jr., Elmira, N. Y.

A Split-Bamboo Lettering Pen

Marking of packages and similar let-
tering can be done neatly with a pen
made in a few minutes from split
bamboo fitted with a short section of
watch spring. Select a piece of bam-
boo, i/i by YiQ in. and about 7 in. long,
and finish the end, as at A. Trim the
end to an angle, as at B. and then point
it, as at C. Split the point carefully,
as at D, and smooth away the tufts at
the edges. Cut a piece of watch spring
the width of the pen point and bind
it into place, arched as shown. To use
the pen, insert ink into the arch of the

KK^^^jV^yy^./:^

9x^yyy/^t^yyXM^y!n^i^yirjtx^aiyx^:rjv-jtKyja-^j-^^

This Pen, Cut from a Piece of Bamboo and Fitted

with a Spring Fountain Device. Is Especially

Useful for Marking Packages

spring, and it will work much like a
fountain pen. — Raymond H. Lufkin,
Dorchester, Mass.

J--'

^'tf. .'*ma»~gi' --.5?,

->.. ,

How to Make a Houseboat

By H. SIBLEY

'TpHE houseboat shown is of the
■*■ scow design, 6 ft. wide by 20 ft.
long, with the cabin extending beyond
the scow 1 ft. on each side. The scow
tapers up at the forward
end and is protected with
a heavy sheet-iron plate so
that the craft may be
snubbed up on sandbars
without danger of spring-
ing a leak, even though a
submerged log be struck
while running at full speed.

The power plant consists
of a standard 4-hp. revers-
ing gasoline engine which
drives the paddles at their
most efficient speed, 45
revolutions per minute
through a 13-to-l reduction. Cast-
iron hubs, into which are inserted cold-
rolled steel spokes, and wood paddles
bolted to their ends constitute the pro-
peller wheels. The cruising speed is
about -4 miles an hour.

Two wide bunks, beneath which is
locker space, provide sleeping accom-
modations for a crew of four. In the
kitchen the motor and gearing are
almost completely con-
cealed under the work

table. The cooking is done on a two-
burner blue-flame kerosene stove, and
the sink is provided
with running water

^ The Hull of the Houseboat is

r _ ^~ Built on the Scow Type so That
It can be Run in Shallow Water
without Danger

suitable for washing dishes, etc. This
water is drawn from a 30-gal. tank on
the roof, which is filled by a centrifugal
pump driven from the engine shaft.
A modern toilet room is installed, and
an ice chest on the after deck will hold
supplies and ice for a week's cruise.

An acetylene-gas lighting system is
installed and is used to light both
cabins and a searchlight. A heavy
anchor of special design is manipulated
by a windlass on the forward deck.' A

FUEL TANK

Detail of the Anchor Windlass and Engine Gearing; Also the Deck Plan, Showing the Location of the Parts

and the Arrangement of the Cabins

144

similai device controls the rudder.
Life rafts, complete with paddles, are
placed on the roof, and in hot weather
these are moved to one end and an
awning erected to make a cool sleep-
ing place.

Wood Box with a Refuse-Catching
Drawer

The ordinary wood box may be
greatly improved by adding a drawer
at the top and one at the bottom, as

The Wood Receptacle Has a Drawer Bottom for
Catching the Dirt, Which can be Easily Cleaned

shown ill the sketch. The upper
drawer is used for storing the flat-
irons and stove-polishing materials,
and the lower drawer is the bottom of
the wood box. The dirt and pieces
falling from the wood remain in the
drawer, which can be removed and
cleaned easily. — Contributed by ^Vil-
liam Jutila, Astoria, Ore.

Disappearing-Coin Trick

To make a quarter disappear from
a glass of water after hearing it drop
is a very puzzling trick. The articles
necessary to perform this trick are a
glass of water, a handkerchief, a quar-
ter and a piece of clear glass the exact

size of a quarter. The glass can be
cut and ground round on an emery
wheel, and the edge polished.

To perform the trick advance with
the piece of glass hidden between the
second and third fingers of the left
hand and holding the quarter in plain
sight between the thumb and first
finger of the same hand and the hand-
kerchief in the right hand. Throw the
handkerchief over the left hand and
gather up the glass piece in the fold
of the cloth, allowing the coin to drop
into the palm of the left hand while
covered. Remove the left hand and
hold out the piece of glass with the
handkerchief drawn tightl}^ around it.
Anyone can touch the cloth-covered
glass, but it cannot be distinguished
from the quarter. While this is being
shown slip the quarter into a pocket.
Spread the handkerchief over the glass
of water and allow the glass disk to
drop. A distinct click will be heard
when it strikes the bottom. Raise the
handkerchief and nothing will be seen,
as the glass will not be visible in the
water. — Contributed by Amon H.
Carr, Gainesville, Tex.

Watering Window-Box Flowers

The window box for flowers can be
conveniently watered in the following
manner: Construct a metal box to
receive the box holding the soil and
bore enough holes in its bottom to ad-
mit water to the soil. The inside box
should be supported about 2 in. above
the bottom of the metal box. Sponges
are placed in the bottom to coincide
with the holes in the soil box. A fill-

^:^ > ^^ II _

WATER SPACE

The Soil is Kept Moist by the Water Feeding through
the Sponges from the Under Side

ing tube is made at the end. The water
is poured into the metal box and the
sponges admit only enough water for
the plants at all times.

im^

. ^

V*:-

-/^

''',%*/J

. '^^-w

^^^pttfiC*"^-,!^-'/, '•.&/', -- ,^

How to Make Combined Kites

By C. M.
PART 1— A

DRAGON kites are made as hideous
as the maker can possibly con-
ceive, and while the one to be consid-
ered is no beauty, it is more droll than
fierce-looking. In general appearance
the dragon and centipede kites are like
huge caterpillars floating about in the
air. The kite sometimes twists and the
balancer sticks appear to be large hairy
spines. Usually the tail end swings
higher than the head. It is like so
many single kites, pulls hard, and re-
quires a strong cord for the line.
The individual circular sections
may number 20, and if placed 30
ill. apart, would make a kite
about 50 ft. in
length, or the ^-j
number of s e c - ^$
tions may be more 'i- '^^-^
or less to make it
longer or shorter
The kite will fold

t'^^'^^^:?^'.

■^

In General Appearance

the Dragon Kite Is Like

a Huge Caterpillar
Floating About in the Air

up into a very
small space, for
carrjmg about or
for storage, but
care should be
taken in folding
not to entangle
the harness.

The Head

jl The head re-

/ quires much more

work than any of

MILLER
Dragon Kite

the other sections. There are two
principal rings to this sec-

tion, as shown in Fig.
^* 1. The inner ring is

the more important, the
outer one being added for the pro-
tection of the points when alighting.
The construction of the framework is
shown in Fig. 2. It is made entirely of
bamboo. The bamboo is split into
strips, about Yia in. wide, for the ring
A. As the bamboo strips will be much
too thick, they must be pared down to
less than Y^q in. The diameter of the
ring A is 12 in., and a strip of bamboo to
make this ring should be about 38 in.
long, so that there will be some end for
making a lap joint. The ends of the strip
are held securely together by winding
them with linen thread. The Chinese
boys use strips of rice paper, about Y^
in. wide and torn lengthwise of the pa-
per. The rice-paper strips are made
wet with paste before winding them on
the joint, and when they dry out the
shrinkage will bind the ends securely.
Two crosspieces, of the same weight
as the ring stick, are placed 3I/2 in.
apart, at equal distances from the cen-
ter and parallel, as shown at B and C.
The ends of these pieces are turned at
a sharp angle and lashed to the inside
surface of the ring A. To make these
bends, heat the bamboo over a candle
flame until it will give under pressure,
then bend and it will stay in shape after
it becomes cold. This method of bend-
ing should be remembered, as it is use-
ful in making all kinds of kites. Two

145

146

small rings, each 31/2 in. in diameter,
are put in between the two parallel
pieces, as shown at D and E. These
are for the eyes of the dragon. The

Fjg.I

The Kite-Head Section, Having Horns, Ears, and
Revolving Eyes, Is Very Hideous

rings are lashed to the two crosspieces
B and C. As the eyes revolve in the
rings they should be made perfectly
true. This can be done by shaping the
bamboo about a perfectly round cylin-
der, 3^4 in. in diam.eter. To stiffen the
whole framework, two pieces of bam-
boo, Yie in. thick, % in. wide, and 20 in.
long, are lashed to the back as shown
by F and G. There is a space of 3 in.
between the inner ring A and the outer
ring H, giving the latter a diameter of
18 in. It is made of a bamboo strip,
% in. wide, and should be less than Yiq
in. thick. It may be necessary to make
this large ring from two pieces of bam-
boo, to get the length, and in such
case be careful to make a perfect ring
with the ends well lashed together.
Two short pieces are lashed to the
two rings, as shown at J and K. The
supports "for the horns consist of two
pieces, % in. wide and less than Vis
in. thick, and they are lashed to the
upper crosspiece and to both rings, so
that the parts L and M are exactly
halfway between the ends of the pieces
F and G and radiate out from the center
of the ring A, the other parts, N and O,

pointing to the center of the eye rings,
respectively. The ears are unimpor-
tant and may be put on if desired. The
rings on the horns and the stick ends
may be from ^2 to 2 in. in diameter^
cut from stiff paper, but if larger, made
of bamboo.

Chinese rice paper is the best ma-
terial for covering, and it should be
stretched tightly so that there will be
no buckling or bagging places. The
only part covered is that inside of the
inner ring A, the horns, and the ears,
leaving the eye rings open. The shades
are put on with a brush and water col-
ors, leaving the face white, or it can be
tinted in brilliant colors. Leave the
horns white and color the tongue red.

The Eyes
The frame for each eye is made of
bamboo, pared down to ]i2 in- in thick-
ness and formed into a perfect ring, 3i^
in. in diameter. Each ring revolves on
an axle made of wire passed through
the bamboo exactly on the diameter, as
shown at P, Fig. 3. The wire should
be long enough to pass through the
socket ring D or E, Fig. 2, also, and
after the eye ring is in place in the

Fid 2

The Framework for the Head Section is Made
Entirely of Bamboo Strips Lashed at the Joints

socket ring and the axle adjusted, the
latter is fastened to the eye ring with
a strip of paper wrapped tightly around
the wire and pasted to the bamboo of

147

the ring. A glass bead, placed on the
wire axle between the socket rings D
or E and the eye ring O on each side,
keeps them apart and the revolving one
from striking the other.

Each side of the eye ring is covered
halfway with rice paper, as shown in
Fig. 4. The part R is on the upper
front half, and that shown by S is on
the back lower half. Placing the two
halves in this manner causes an un-
equal pressure of the wind on the whole
eyepiece, and thus causes it to revolve
on the axle. The front upper half of
the eyepiece is made black, and the
smaller dark portion extending below
the darkened half is a round piece of
paper placed just between the two
halves so that half of it will show on
both front and back of the eyepiece.
When the eyepiece is given a half turn
in its socket the back side will come to
the front and will appear just the same
as the other side. Some kite builders
add pieces of mirror glass to the eyes,
to reflect the light and cause flashes as
the eyes revolve in their sockets.

A Section Kite

The ring for the section kite is made
the same size as the inner ring of the
head kite, or in this case 13 in. in diam-
eter. The bamboo for making this ring
should be Y^ in. wide and Yiq in. thick.

be made small, light and well balanced.
Small tufts of tissue paper, or feathers,
are attached to the tip ends of the bal-
ancer sticks, as shown in Fig. 5. The

FiG3

Fis.4

Two Bamboo Rings with Paper Coverings, to Make
Them Turn in the Wind, Constitute the Eyes

cover for the section kite is put on
tightly, the same as for the head, the
colors indicated in the sketch being
only suggestions, as the builder can
color them as desired. The balancer
on the last section should have stream-
ers, as shown in Fig. 6, for a finish.
The streamers are made of light cloth.

The Harness

As previously stated, 20, more or less,
sections can be used, and the number
means so many separate kites which
are joined together with three long

The Section Kites Have Balancers and the Disks are Given Bright Colors So That They will Produce

the Effect of a Great Dragon When in the Air. the Head Piece Having a Ball

Balancer Hanging from the Under Edge

The balancer stick, 36 in. long, is lo-
cated about the same place as the cross-
stick F, as shown in Fig. 2, and must

cords, spacing the sections 30 in. apart.
The cords should be as long as the kite
from the head to the tail, allowing suf-

148

ficient extra length for the knots. As
such a kite will make a hard pull, the
cord used should be a six-ply, hard-
twisted seine twine. Start by tying
the three long cords to the head kite
at the points T, U, and V, Fig. 2. Tie
the next section at corresponding
places just 30 in. from the head kite.
The construction will be much easier
if the head kite is fastened to a wall so
that each cord may be drawn out to its
proper length. Continue the tying
until all sections are attached just 30 in.
apart. Other spacing can be used, but
the distance selected must be uniform
throughout the length of the kite. The
individual kites, or sections, inay vary
in size, or they can all be 9 in. in diam-
eter, instead of 12 in., and the balancer
sticks 30 in. long instead of 36 in., but
a kite of uniform sections is much bet-
ter and is easier to make. The posi-
tions of the sections as they will appear
in theliite are shown in Fig. 7.

The Bridle

The Chinese bridle is usually made
of three strings, which are attached to
the same points on the head kite as the

harness cords, or at. T, U, and V. The
lower string is longer than the two
upper ones so that the proper inclina-
tion will be presented to the breeze.
As the head is inclined, all the section
kites will also be inclined. Some
makers prefer a balancer on the head
kite, and in one instance such a bal-
ancer was made in the shape of a ball.
A ball made of bamboo strips is shown
in Fig. 8, and is attached as shown in
Fig. 7.

Flying the Kite
It will be necessary to have a helper,
and perhaps two, in starting the kite
up. as the harness might become entan-
gled. Quite a little run will be neces-
sary, but when up the kite will make a
steady flier and will pull very hard. If
the first attempt is unsuccessful, try re-
adjustment of the bridle or a little dif-
ferent position in the breeze, and see
that the balancers are not tangled.
Quite a number of changes may be
worked out on these plans, but it is
necessary to bear in mind that the dis-
tances between sections must be equal
and that the general construction must
be maintained.

A Movable Sunshade and Seat for
Garden Workers

Weeding gardens under a hot sun
and in a necessarily uncomfortable po-
sition is by no means a pleasant occu-
pation, but much of the hardship can

;;^^'^:>^

The Sunshade and Seat are Mounted on Wheels So
That the Device can be Easily Moved About

be avoided if a combination movable
simshade and seat is made, as shown in
the illustration. The framework con-
sists of two end pieces, both made in
the same way. Two %-in. tees are
required for each. These are connected
with a 5-ft. pipe, for the upright, and
the crosspiece that supports one end
of the canvas consists of two pieces of
pipe, each about II/2 ft. long, screwed
into the tee. The axle for the wheels
is also formed of two pieces of pipe, but
these ai^e only about 1 ft. long.

Four suitable cart wheels should be
provided, or solid circular disks cut out
of a board or plank, and drilled for a
%-in. axle. Ordinary %-in. washers
are placed on each side of the wheels,
one serving as a shoulder on the pipe
end, and Jie other for the nut. The
seat can be made of a 1 by 8-in. board,
about 6 ft. 9 in. long, notched at each
end to fit the pipe tees and prevented
from shifting by means of U-bolts

149

around the axle on either side of the
upright. After covering the top with
canvas, fastened at each end around the
upper crosspiece, the shaded movable
seat is ready for service. — Contributed
by \V. E. Crane, Cleveland, Ohio.

To Keep Grass and Weeds Out of
Tennis Courts

Tennis courts are very apt to be-
come covered with grass and weeds
unless considerable labor is expended
on them. The best way to keep a court
free from this growth is to put on
sheets of tar paper close together when
it is not in use. The paper should be
cut in strips the proper length, so that
they can be rolled up and set aside until
the game is over, when they can be laid
down again. After the court has been
covered a few times, the grass will
die out and disappear altogether. The
use of salt, acids, and a number of other
things, together with hoeing, were tried
out, but the paper covering was the
most successful of them all. — Contrib-
uted by W. D. Mills, Bakersfield, Cal.

Buttonhole-Bouquet Holder to Keep
Cut Flowers Fresh

Being employed near a glass-blowing
department I procured a small glass
tube and made a
buttonhole - bou-
quet holder. One
end of the tube
I closed and
flared the other,
then flattened
the whole tube a
bit. This tube,
inserted in the
buttonhole with
a few drops of
water in it, will
keep cut flowers
fresh for a whole
day. If the up-
per end is flared just right it will fit
the buttonhole and will not be seen, as
'.he tube is hidden beneath the coat
lapel. — Contributed by Frank Reid.

Cooler for a Developing Tray

Regardless of the fact that tank de-
velopment for photography is the better
method under most conditions, there

Water-Jacketed Tray for Use in Cooling a Developing
Tray with a Flow of Water

are many who take special delight in
tray development, because they enjoy
seeing the picture as it develops on the
plate or film.

There are many of this class of pho-
tographers both among amateurs and
professionals, and they universally ex-
perience much trouble in keeping the
solutions cool enough for good work in
hot weather or a warm dark room.
Many schemes have been used, but
there is none simpler than that shown
in the illustration. It is certainly bet-
ter than letting the developing tray float
in the bathtub, a common practice
among amateurs who are compelled to
use the bathroom as a dark room.

Any tinsmith can make a water-jack-
eted tray of zinc at a nominal price. If
one expects to use it for developing
films by hand, it should be made rela-
tively deep, or at least shaped so that
whatever method is used in manipu-
lating the film will be suited to the size
and shape of the tray. I had one made
of zinc to accommodate an 8 by 10-in.
plate and providing about Vi-'ni. space
all around the sides and bottom of the
inner tray for the circulation of the
water.

Two brass gas tips were soldered into
the ends of the tray and a rubber tube
was attached to one of them, as shown.

150

By connecting this tray to the bath-
room hydrant the developing solution
can be kept as cool as desired without
slopping water where it is not wanted.
- — Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chi-
cago, 111.

Doorbell Push Button on Screen Door

Push buttons are frequently put in
hallways, or other places, not access-
ible when the screen doors are hooked

TO BATTERY & BELL-

Method of Connecting a Push Button for a
Doorbell on a Screen Door

shut. By connecting an extra button
on the screen door with the regular
doorbell line, the service can be made
to go on uninterrupted whether the
screen be locked or open.

To do this, one wire, carefully in-
sulated, from the outside button is
laid under the upper molding strip of
the screen, as shown, coming out
through the hinge and passing down
to the battery line, being concealed in
any suitable manner, by molding or
within the door frame. The button
circuit is completed by connecting it to
the screen with a short wire, the screen
then acting as a conductor. If pre-
ferred, the line may be run down under
the screen-door molding, and out
through the bottom hinge same as with

the other wire at the top. If the screen
is used as conductor, a piece of wire
should be connected to it near the bot-
tom, and led through the hinge as be-
fore. In either case, after leaving the
hinge, the wire must be led and con-
nected to the battery line, to complete
the circuit. It is then possible to
operate the bell either from outside of
the screen door or at the regular place
within. — Contributed by E. M. Davis,
Philadelphia, Pa.

Working Wood by the Application
of Heat

It is often desirable to fit a piece of
wood into a piece of metal by means
of cutting a thread in the metal and
screwing the wood therein. This can
be accomplished by heating the metal
to a little over the boiling point of
water and screwing the wood piece
into the metal while hot ; or, if this is
impractical on account of size, to heat
the metal, make a screw plate by cut-
ting a thread in a small piece of metal,
the size and thread corresponding to
the hole into which the wood piece is
to be inserted, and heating it to the
required temperature, then running the
wood with some pressure through
the thread. The wood then can be
screwed into the larger piece, where it
will hold iirmly.

The process of heating wood with-
out the aid of steam can be used to
advantage in a number of ways; for
instance, a hammer handle that is
crooked can be straightened by careful
heating without burning; also billiard
cues, or almost anything of hard wood.
It is surprising how easily it is done
and how permanent the repair will be.
The Indians at one time made their
arrows from small hardwood twigs
which were almost always crooked
to start with, but after being dried
they were warmed over a fire and
straightened.

Another use for the application of
heat is as follows: When it is desired
to place a screw in a fragile piece of
wood that is likely to split, if the screw
is heated to a blue color and turned

151

into the wood while hot, there will
be scarcely any danger of splitting. In
this case do not try to use oil or a
lubricant of any kind, as the screw is
sure to set before it is in place. — Con-
tributed by James H. Beebee, Roch-
ester, N. Y.

from each side of the bottom shelf and
fastened to it by means of screws.
The rail pieces for the table top

A Parlor Table

The material required for the par-
lor table illustrated is as follows :

1 table top, 1 by 26 by 41 in.

1 bottom shelf, 1 by 15 bv 35 in.

2 side rails, K by 4 bv 33 in.
2 end rails, M by 4 by 21 in.

2 top cross braces, 1 by 4 by 195^ in*

4 feet, 1?^ by 4 by 4 in.

2 posts, 6 by 6 by 26 in.

2 side corner strips, 1 by 1 by 31 J,-< in.

2 end corner strips, 1 by 1 by 17^ in.

The bottom shelf can be made of
two pieces of 1-in. material, 8 in. wide,
carefully glued together, and rein-
forced on the under side with two
crosspieces, glued and screwed to it.
The foot pieces are secured to the bot-
tom shelf so as to project 1 in. on the
ends and sides. In case a center sup-
port is deemed advisable, another foot
piece can be added, but unless the floor
is very level, rocking may result. The
uprights, or posts, are made from solid
6 by 6-in. lumber, 26 in. long, care-
fully squared at the ends, and tapered
to 4 in. square at the upper end. If
desired, the posts can be made of

Detail of the Parlor Table, Together with
Dimensions of the Pieces

boards, cut and fastened together to
form a hollow tapered post. In either
case, they should be set in about 4 in.

Design of a Table That will Appear Well in the
Different Oak Finishes as Well as in Mahogany

should be cut and fitted with mitered
joints at the corner to form a rectangu-
lar frame, 21 by 33 in. This is glued
to the top and may be toenailed to it ;
but to provide a more secure bracing,
a 1-in. square strip of material is fas-
tened all around the inside edge of
the rails, flush with their upper edge.
The top is screwed to this. In order
to prevent tipping when the top is
resting on the 4 by 4-in. ends of the
posts, two cross braces are provided.
These should be screwed to the outer-
end sides of the posts, and beveled oft
on their upper edges to fit the table
top. They should be of such length
as to have a tight fit between the side
rails, and are fastened to these by
means of finishing nails driven from
the outside. Gluing and toenailing
can also be used to secure the top
more firmly to the braces; care should
be taken that no nails cut through the
table top. After thoroughly sand-
papering and smoothing oi¥ the table,
it can be finished to suit. — Contributed
by H. J. Blacklidge, San Rafael, Cal.

Homemade Fuses for Battery Circuits

To carry out the general arrange-
ment of the regular electrical equip-
ment of a large power plant, the bat-
tery circuit should have some sort of
a fuse block. An excellent wa^' to

153

make such a block is as follows : Pro-
cure a piece of glass tubing, about 1
in. long, and make a mounting for it
with four pieces of sheet brass, as

The Fuse is'Well Insulated and Protected against
Fire the Same as the Large Fuse

shown in the sketch. The brass pieces
are shaped and fastened to a wood base
so that their upper ends form a clamp
to hold the glass tube.

A very thin piece of tinfoil, about 1^/^
in. long, is cut i/g in., or less, in width,
the size depending on the amount of
current used. This is placed in the
glass tube and the ends are bent over
the edge. A piece of tinfoil is then
wrapped around each end, over the
ends of the inclosed piece, and pasted
to the tube.

The fuse thus made is pushed into
the spring clamps of the block which
are connected in the circuit. — Contrib-
uted by Charles W. IMeinberg, Somer-
ville, IMass.

covered by the object will remain a
lemon color. When the desired shade
of brown is attained, remove the paper
from the sunlight, and the image of
the object will be on the paper.

Go over the outline with crayons or
colors, and fill in the print according to
the natural colors. Very beautiful pic-
tures may be made in this way, and a
butterfly made up in natural colors on
a dark-brown ground is very pretty.
These prints, uncolored, will keep for
some time, if they are not exposed to a
strong light.

Washing as ordinary photographic
prints are treated will improve them a
little. If the instructions are followed,
many beautiful objects can be pre-
served in color. — Contributed by J. B.
Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.

Dishwasher and Drier

Wniere hot water is available the
dishwasher illustrated is especially
suitable. It is easily constructed and
inexpensive, the only real expense be-
ing for the tank, which is 15 in. deep
and 20 in. in diameter. A washer of
these dimensions will hold the dishes
from a table ser\^ing six to eight per-

Reproducing Flowers and Leaves in
Colors

A very cheap, easy, and quick way to
make reproductions of flowers, leaves,
insects, butterflies, etc., is the follow-
ing: Purchase 1 oz. of bichromate of
potash and dissolve it in water. Spread
this fluid over the surface of the paper
upon which the picture is to be made,
using a soft brush, and place it in a
dark room to dry. Wlien dry it will be
a light lemon color.

The leaf, or part to be reproduced,
is placed upon the yellow side of the
paper and the whole exposed to the
sunlight. The uncovered portions will
gradually turn brown, while the part

The Hot Water from the Faucet is Forcefl over
the Dishes in a Fine Spray

sons. The tank may be supported on
legs if desired.
The supports for holding the dishes

153

in a vertical position are made of wire
in a U-shape, the ends being fastened
into two wood hoops that snugly fit the
inside of the tank, one near the bottom
and the other about 9 in. above the
first one. The wires are set about 1^2
in. apart and radiate from the center
like wire spokes in a wheel.

A funnel-shaped piece, having a hole
5 in. in diameter in the center, is made
of mesh wire and hung in place with
several wires running to the upper edge
of the tank. Hooks are attached to the
edge of the hole on which cups and
glasses are hung.

The cover consists of a wood disk,
with a hole bored in its center for a
%-in. pipe. The piece of pipe used
should be 3 or 4 in. longer than the
depth of the tank. A long thread is cut
on the lower end of the pipe, and two
rectangular holes are cut in the pipe
end through the threaded part. These
holes are made by cutting through the
pipe as if making a slot for a key. Two
large nuts are run on the threads of the
pipe. These nuts should be thick
enough to cover the slot in the pipe.
A pipe cap is then screwed on the end
of the pipe. The upper end of the
pipe is attached to a hose connected to
the hot-water faucet. By separating
the two nuts just a little, a fine spray
of water will be forced out of the
holes.

When the dishes are in place the
spray of hot water can be directed over
them by moving the pipe up and down
through the hole in the cover.

After the dishes are washed sufifi-
ciently the hose is removed and the
tank placed over a gas jet so that the
heat will pass up through the funnel-
shaped attachment in the bottom of the
tank. The dishes, already heated by
the hot water, soon dry in the heat
from the gas jet. If desired, the tank
can be allowed to remain over the jet
until the next meal is ready to serve,
using a very small flame. — Contributed
by W. K. Baxter, Massillon, O.

How to Make Pop-Corn Cakes

It is very difificult to take a bite from
a ball of pop corn, and it becomes more
difficult as the ball increases in size.

The Pop Corn When Formed

into Cakes About One Inch

Thick is Eatily Handled

As a large number of balls were re-
quired for a church entertainment I de-
cided to make the pop corn into cakes.
This was more easily accomplished
than first imagined with the use of a
cake-forming device as shown in the il-
lustration. The body of the former was
made of a' baking-powder can with the
bottom removed. The cover of the can
was nailed to the top of an old table
with its flange upward. A plunger of
wood was made to fit snugly inside of
the can and a lever, about 3 ft. long,
attached to it and fulcrumed to the wall.
After the pop corn has been prepared
w-ith the sirup, it is placed in the can
and compressed. The can. is then lifted
out of the cover and the pop-corn cake
removed. This method offers a much
better way to serve pop corn than in
balls. In making the cakes, the can,
cover, and plunger must be kept well
covered with butter. — Contributed by
Howard A. Hopkins, Youngstown,
New York.

CTc empty a large sack filled with
heavy material, turn or roll it over a
barrel.

Threading a Darning Needle

Having occasion to use a darning
needle, the eye of which was too small
to insert the yarn in the usual manner,
I tried the following method with good
results. A thread was doubled and
passed through the eye, and the loop
thus formed was used to pull the yarn
through, — Contributed by Joe Hender-
son, Eldred, 111.

154

A Fish Scaler

All kinds of devices, both simple and
complex, have been made and patented
for use in scaling fish, but for a novelty
I found the following, which necessity
compelled me to improvise on an out-
ing trip, to be as efficient as any of
them. As usual, the commissary, in
making up the outfit, neglected to take
the curry comb to clean the fish, and
at the same time remembered to take
a plentiful supply of bottled goods.
Long before it became necessary to
scale any fish enough bottles had been
opened to provide the basis of a tool
for the purpose, which I constructed
by using the small tin bottle caps, a
few being nailed on a block of wood,
about 3 in. wide by 4 in. long, making
a splendid fish scaler, as good and effi-
cient at home as in the camp, and both

WOOD BLOCK-

3X4-" ^ ^

Bottle Caps Nailed to a Wood Block for Removing
Scales from a Fish

inexpensive and easily made. The
sketch shows the general appearance. —
Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chi-
cago.

A Disappearing Towel

Nothing is more unsightly to a
stranger entering a home than a dirty
towel in either the bathroom or the
kitchenette. To keep the towel out of
sight I made a hanger as shown in the
illustration. A wire was bent into
shape similar to a clothes hanger and
a sliding clip made to hold the towel
in place. A cabinet was made to ac-
commodate the towel, and the hanger
was attached to a cord run over a pul-
ley fastened at the top, through a
weight pulley, and then tied to a screw

eye at the top. The weight draws the
towel into the cabinet. Near the bot-
tom edge a slot was cut and a small

The Weight Draws the Towel into the Case Out
of Sight When Not in Use

panel fitted in it. This small panel is
fastened to the lower end of the towel.
It is only necessary to pull out the
small panel to get at the towel. When
through with the towel, let loose of it
and the weight will draw it into the
opening. — Contributed by Chas. C.
Bradley, W. Toledo, O.

Ammonia-Carrying Case for Insect
Bites

An old clinical-thermometer case
can be easily turned into a vial in which
to carry ammonia for insect bites. Fit
a small rubber stop-
per in the case, then
push a darning nee-
dle into the stopper
so that its end will
be a little more than
midway in the case.
Cut or break off the
needle end project-
ing on the outside and attach a small
wad of cotton to the inside end. The
case is then filled with ammonia. For
bee stings this works fine, as the
ammonia completely neutralizes the
formic acid which the bee deposits. —
Contributed by E. Everett Buchanan,
Elmira, N. Y.

GThe contact points of a firm-joint
caliper should never be struck on hard
surfa,ces to adjust them.

155

How to Make Combined Kites

By C. M. miller
PART II— A Festooned Kite

MORE than one kite on the same
framework is known as a com-
pound kite. The one illustrated con-
sists of three tailless kites on one long
stick, called the spine. The upper one
is 3 ft. ; the center one, 2 ft., and the
lower one, 1 ft. in width. There will
be needed for the construction of this
kite a stick of light wood — spruce is
best, but it may be of pine or bass —
T ft. long by 1/4 by % in. If the wood
breaks easily it will be better to in-
crease the width from 1/2 in. to 34 in.,
or the stick might be made % in. thick
without increasing the width, but with
a good spruce stick the dimensions first
given will be sufficient. The stick
should be straight-grained and without
a twist. If the spine is twisted, the
kites will not lie flat or in a plane
with each other, and if one is out of
true, it will cause the kite to be un-

rhe Spine with the Bow Sticks Properly Spaced as
Shown by the Dimensions

Steady in the air. The bow sticks are
three, the upper one being 4 ft. long

by 1/4 by I/2 in. ; the center one, 2 ft.
long by 1/4 by % in., and the lower
one, 1 ft. long by 1/4 by 14 in. About

The Kite as It Appears with the Festoons Hung
to the Ends of the Sticlis

five sheets of tissue paper will be re-
quired, but more may be needed for
color combinations. The so-called
French tissue paper is much better, as
it comes in fine colors and is much
stronger than the ordinary tissue. It
costs a trifle more, but it pays in mak-
ing a beautiful kite. The Chinese rice
paper is the strongest, but it comes only
in natural colors.

It will be seen that the kites do not
extend to the top and bottom of the
spine stick. The first bow stick is
placed 13 in. from the top end of the
spine, and each of its ends extends 6 in.
beyond the kite for fastening the fes-
toons. The bow sticks should be lashed
to the spine, not nailed. Wind diag-
onally around the two sticks, both left
and right, then wind between the twOj

156

around the other windings. This draws
ail windings up tightly to prevent slip-
pmg.

To string up the upper kite, drill a
small hole through the spine, 6 in. from
the top, at A, and also 6 in. from each
end of the bow stick, at B and C. If
a small drill is not available, notch
the stick with a knife or saw to hold
the string. Another hole is made in
the spine 29 in. from the upper bow
stick, or at D. Tie the outline string
at A, then pass through the hole at C,
then through D, up through B and back
to the starting point at A. In tying
the last point, draw up the string
tightly, but not enough to spring the
spine or bow. Measure carefully to
see if the distance AC is the same as
AB, and if CD is equal to BD. If they
are not, shift the string until they are
equal and wind at all points, as shown
at E, to prevent further slipping. Pro-
ceed in the same way with the center
and lower kite, and it will be ready
for the cover.

The cover tissue should be cut about
1 in. larger all around than the sur-
face to be covered, but turn over about
half of this allowance. This will give

plenty of looseness to the cover. For
the fringe festoons, cut strips of tis-
sue paper, 21/2 in. wide, paste y^ in.
of one long edge over a string, and cut
slits with scissors at intervals of 1 in.
along the loose edge. After the fringe
has been made, attach it as shown in
the illustration. Do not stretch it
tightly, but give sufficient looseness to
make each length form a graceful
curve and keep the sides well balanced.

To bend the bows of the upper and
center kites, attach a string from end
to end of each bow on the back side of
the kite and spring in short brace sticks
in the manner usual for tailless kites.

Attach the upper end of the bridle
at A. The length of the bridle string
is 87 in. and the kite line is attacied
to it 30 in. from A, leaving the lower
part from this point to F, where it is
tied to the spine, 57 in. long.

The kite should fly without a tail,
but if it dodges too much, attach extra
streamers to the ends of the bow sticks
of the lower kite, and to the bottom of
the spine.

If good combinations of colors are
used a very beautiful kite will be the
result, and one that will fly well.

Simple Experiment in Electro-
magnetism

The following simple experiment,
which may be easily performed, will
ser\'e to prove the theory that there

A Small Coil of Wire Mounted on a Cork
Floating in Dilute Sulphuric Acid

is a magnetic field produced about a
conductor carrying a current, and that
there is a acfinite relation between the

direction of the current in the con-
ductor and the direction, or polarity, of
the magnetic field produced by the cur-
rent. The current in the experii :ent
is to be produced by a battery consist-
ing of a small copper and zinc plate
fastened to the under side of a large
flat cork, as shown in the sketch, the
whole being placed in a glass or rubber
vessel partly filled with diluted sul-
phuric acid. A small coil of wire is
formed and mounted on top of the cork,
and its terminals are connected to the
copper and zinc plates. The electro-
motive force generated will cause a
current to circulate through the coil
from the copper plate to the zinc plate.
If the poles of a permanent magnet be
presented in turn to the same side of
the coil it will be found that there is a
force of attraction between one pole of
the permanent magnet and the coil,
and a force of repulsion between the

157

other pole and the coil. If the same
operation be performed on the oppo-
site side of the coil, it will be found
that the force between the poles of the
magnet and the coil are just the reverse
of what they were in the first case ;
that is, the pole that attracted the coil
in the first case will now repel it, and
the one that repelled it, will now at-
tract it. Applying one of the funda-
mental laws of magnetism — like poles
attract and unlike repel each other — it
can be readily seen that the two sides
of the coil are of opposite magfnetic
polarity.

If the direction of the current around
the coil be changed, the action between
the coil and the magnet will be oppo-
site to what it was originally, and if
the plates be placed in clean water,
there will be no current and no at-
traction or repulsion between the coil
and the poles of the magnet.

Double Lock for a Shed

Four boys using the same shed as
their workshop wished to lock it so
that any one of them could enter alone.
Usually only two
keys are supplied
with a lock, so two
locks were p u r-
chased and applied
to the staples as
shown. Each boy
was provided with a key and could
enter at his pleasure. — Contributed by
George Alfred Moore, Versailles, O.

Ferrules for Tool Handles

Discarded metal caps from broken
gas-mantle holders should be saved, as
they will come in handy for several
purposes, such
as ferrules on
wood handles,
rtir~x llllm and the like. The
wire screen is re-
moved from the end, and the cap is
fastened to the handle with a nail or
screw. — Contributed by James M.
Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Mallet Made from Wagon-Wheel
Felly and Spoke

When in need of a mallet and if an
old broken and discarded wagon wheel
is at hand, one can be made quickly as

A Well-Shaped Mallet Made from a Section of a
Wagon-Wheel Felly and Spoke

follows : Cut through the rim at A and
B, and through the spoke at any dis-
tance desired, as at C, for instance.
The spoke is dressed into the shape of
a handle and sandpapered smooth.
The section of the felly is used as head
and is shaped properly and fastened to
the handle with two nails. — Contrib-
uted by Mark Gluckman, Jersey City,
New Jersey.

A Mystery Sounding Glass

Procure a thin, tapering drinking
glass, a piece of thin, black thread,
about 2 ft. long, and a long lead pencil.
Cut a small groove around the pencil
near one end. Make a slip noose in
each end of the thread and slip one into
the notch and place the thin glass iii
the other with the thread near the top.
When the pencil is revolved slowly the
thread will be wound on it slightly and
it will slip back with a jerk that pro-
duces a ring in the glass. This may be
kept up indefinitely. The movement
necessary is so small that it is imper-
ceptible. The glass can be made to
answer questions by two rings for
"yes" and one ring for "no."

CA lighted match held to the outside
of a fish-pole joint causes an expan-
sion of the outer ferrule and allows
the pole to be readily pulled apart.

158

Kepairing a Broken Canoe Paddle

While paddling a rented canoe one
day the paddle struck a rock and
snapped in two a little below the center
of the handle. The
boatman laughed at
the idea of trying to
fix it, but after pay-
ing his price for the
paddle I decided to
try mending it. The
barrel of an old bi-
cycle pump was pro-
cured and I found
that it fitted over the
paddle at the break a
trifle loosely. It was
pushed on the handle
out of the way.
Then with a No. 8
bit I bored a hole 8
in. deep in the end of
each broken part. Into these holes,
which formed one cavity when the
broken ends were brought together,
was forced and glued a tight-fitting IG-
in. dowel pin. The outside of the
handle was then wrapped with tape for
about 10 in. each side of the break, and
the pump barrel was forced down over
this tape until it completely and firmly
enveloped the broken ends. — Contrib-
uted by Clarence G. INIeyers, Waterloo,
Iowa.

Tightening Lever for Tennis Nets

Tennis nets are always sagging and
to keep them at the proper height re-
quires considerable attention, espe-

The Upper Rope on a Tennis Net Held Taut with a
Lever on the Post

cially so where the posts are not solidly
set in the ground. A very effective net

tightener, and one that is easy to make,
is the lever shown in the illustration.
One end of a piece of hardwood board
is shaped into a handle the other end
being left large. In the latter a hole
is cut to fit loosely over the post for
the net. The upper end of the post is
notched and a sheave pulley is placed
in it so that the groove will be in line
with the net. The upper rope on the
net is run over the pulley and is at-
tached to the lever handle. A down-
ward pressure on the handle draws
the rope taut and locks it on the post.
It is easily removed from the post and
can be left attached to the rope and
rolled up in the net when not in use.

A Desk Watch Holder

A watch holder for the desk is a
great convenience for the busy worker,
and many calendar devices are sold for
this purpose, yet they
are no more efficient
than the one illustrated,
which can be made from
an ordinary spindle desk
file. If the wire is too
long it can be cut oS and
the bend made in it to
form a hook for the
Avatch rinsf.

Cleaning Silverware

To clean silver-
ware, or any-
thing made of
the precious
metals, such as jewelry, etc., is very
simple with the following method :
Place a piece of zinc in a cup, dish, or
any glazed ware ; put in the articles to
be cleaned, and pour over them a hot
solution of water and carbonate of
soda — washing soda — in proportions of
one tablespoonful of soda to y^ gal. of
water. This is a solution and method
used by many jewelers for cleaning
pins, rings, chains, and many other
small articles made in gold and silver.

CA machine should never be stopped
in the midst of a fine cut.

An Eight -Pointed Star Kite

By CHARLES M. MILLER

NEARLY every boy can make kites
of the several common varieties
without special directions. For the boy
who wants a kite that is not like those
every other boy makes, an eight-
pointed star kite, decorated in an origi-
nal and interesting manner, in various
colors, is well worth while, even if it
requires more careful work, and extra
time. The star kite shown in Fig. 1 is
simple in construction, and if carefully
made, will fly to a great height. It is
balanced by streamers instead of the
common type of kite tail. Any regular-
shaped kite should be laid out accu-
rately, as otherwise the error appears
very prominent, and unbalances the
poise of the kite.

The frame for this star kite is made
of four sticks, joined, as indicated in
Fig. 0, with strings running from one
corner to the second corner beyond, as
from A to C, from C to E, etc. A little
notching of each pair of sticks lessens
the thickness of the sticks at the center
crossing, and strengthens the frame.
The sticks are 1/4 by I/2 in. by -i ft. long.
They are set at right angles to each
other in pairs, and lashed together with

cord, and also held by a %-in. brat' at
the center. The strings that form the
sides of the squares, A to G, and B to
H, must be equal in length when tied.
The points where the strings forming
the squares cross each other and the
sticks are also tied.

The first cover, which is put on with
paste, laying it out on a smooth floor
or table as usual in kite making, is plain
light-colored paper. The darker dec-
orations are pasted onto this. The out-
side edges of the cover are turned over
the string outline, and pasted down.
The colors may be in many combina-
tions, as red and white, purple and gold,
green and white, etc. Brilliant and con-
trasting colors are best. The decora-
tion may proceed from the center out.

The Boy Who Makes a Star Kite of This Type will Have a Construction Different from the Common Run
of Kites, Especially If He Decorates It in an Attractive Manner

159

160

or the reverse. The outside edge in the
design shown has a li^-hi. black stripe.
The figures are black. The next oc-
tagonal black line binds the design to-
gether. The points of the star are dark
blue, with a gilt stripe on each. The
center design is done in black, dark
blue, and gilt.

The flags are tied on, and the tassels
are easily made of cord. The outside
streamers are at least 6 ft. long, and
balanced carefully. Ribbons, or dark-
colored lining cambric, are used for
them. The funnel-shaped ends balance
the kite. They are shown in detail in
Figs. 2, 3, and 4, and have 1-in. open-

ings at the bottom, through which the
air passes, causing a pull that steadies
the kite. They are of dark blue, and the
cloth fringe is of light blue. A thin
reed, or fine wire, is used for the hoop
which stiffens the top. Heavy wrap-
ping or cover paper is used to cover the
hoops. It is cut as shown in Fig. 4 and
rolled into shape.

A four-string bridle is fastened to the
frame at I, J, K, and L, as shown. The
upper strings are each 18 in., and the
lower ones 32 in. long, to the point
where they come together, and must be
adjusted after the kite line is fastened
at M.

Second Handle on Hoe or Rake Saves
Stooping

Anyone who has used a hoe or rake
for days at a time will appreciate the
labor saved by the attachment for the

Much of the Tiring Labor in Using a Hoe or Rake is
Overcome by This Simple Homemade Attachment

handle shown in the illustration. It is
adjustable to various-sized persons by
means of the holes at the front end of
the horizontal piece. The two parts are
each made of strips joined at the middle
portions, and arranged to clamp on the
handle of the hoe or rake. In hoeing
iround shrubs and large plants, the
handle may be set to one side. — A. S.
Thomas, Amherstburg, Ont., Canada.

Photo-Copying Lens Increases Angle
of Camera

Trying to take some indoor pictures,
I found the angle of my ordinary lens
was insufficient to "get in" the various
objects I desired. Not having a wide-
angle lens, I decreased the focal length
of the lens by using a copj'ing attach-
ment. The results were quite pleasing,
and while there is some distortion and
less of the plate is covered than usual,
there is a remarkable increase in the
angle of view. To obtain definition, it is
necessary to stop the lens down, but
the pictures are very clear.^Samuel L.
Pickett, Denver, Colo.

DIVIDERS
SPROCKET

Belt for Sprocket Drive Made of Brass
Strips

Being unable to purchase a small
driving chain for sprockets made by
cutting out
every other tooth
in gears taken
from a clock-
work, I used a
brass strip, prop-
e r 1 y punched,
and found it
satisfactory. The
strip was .00.5 in. thick and the points
where the holes were to be punched out
were indicated by dividers set from the
gears. I made a punch from a nail,
leaving a small center on it as shov/n,

3RASS STRIP

IGl

and g'inding' the end to an oblong
shape. I used a piece of sheet lead as a
die, on which to punch the strips. The
marks made Ijy the dividers provided
spots on which to set the center of
the punch, making the result quite ac-
curate.— Edward M. Davis, Phila-
delphia, Pa.

Rain Alarm with Drop-of- Water
Contact

An annunciating device, which
awakens a person sleeping in a room
with the window open and warns him
that it is raining, so that he may close
the window, is an interesting bit of
electrical construction. On the outside
of the house, as detailed, is a funnel
fixed to the wall. At its small end, two
separate wires have their terminals. The
wires enter the room at the frame of the
window, and connect to an electric bell,
and a dry cell. A drop of water enter-
ing the funnel, flows down to the small
end, falling on the terminals of the
wires, and acting as a conductor, com-
])letes the circuit, ringing the bell. A

//y//V///

in the job. The front of the coaster was
covered with a hood, and the steering
wheel was set back of it, as shown.
The center rod of the freezer was used

A Steering Rig That Works Almost Like That on

an Automobile was Made Out of the Driving

Parts of an Old Ice-Cream Freezer

for the steering post F, and an old
rubber-tired wheel was made into a
steering wheel. The casting from the
top of the freezer, with the gears in it,
and the rod on which the turning crank
was fastened were set on a block, H,
and braced, as shown. The shaft w^here
the crank was fastened, at B, was set
through the wagon bed. A crosspiece
of iron. A, was wired to the axle D
with wires C. A heavy block was used
for a turntable. The top end of the
casting was fastened to the hood with
a brace, G, and the block H steadies the
rigging also. — L. Chester Bryant, El
Dorado, Ark.

IMSIOE VIEW
A Drop of Rain Water Completes the Bell Circuit,
Thus Giving Warning of the Rain

switch inside cuts out the circuit, stop-
ping the bell's ringing. — John M.
Chabot, Lauzon, Quebec, Can.

OUTSIDE Pad for Glass Vessels Made of Corks

Coaster Steering Gear Made from
Cream-Freezer Drive

In rebuilding a wagon into an auto-
mobile coaster, I used the driving rod
and gears from an old ice-cream freezer,
and found that it worked so well that
perhaps other boys might be interested

In the kitchen, shop, laboratory, and
other places where glass or other frag-
ile dishes or vessels are used, a con-
venient pad on which to rest them can
be made by stringing corks on a strong
cord or wire in the form of a ring. Sev-
eral rings of corks may be used to
make a mat, or rings slightly larger
in diameter than the bottle or vessel
may be made for certain sizes of con-
tainers. If desired, the corks may be
cut to fit closely on the radial joints,
making the resulting ring more secure.

162

A Shaving Lamp and Mirror for the
Camp

To make shaving possible in camp at
night, or with little daylight, a small
mirror was provided with an electric
flash light. The
mirror was set to
swing free, in a
wooden support.
The light was
fastened slightly
above and be-
hind the mirror,
and swings at its
base, so that it
can be tipped up-
ward or down-
ward, throwing
the light corre-
spondingly. A
piece of wood,
114 by 31/4 in., and as long as the mirror
frame is wide, serves as a base. The
arms will hold the mirror far enough in
front of the lamp to allow room in
which to swing. The body of the lamp
is set on a block, and held between two
wooden pieces, into which a band of
iron was set near the top. The up-
rights move in an arc, pivoting at their
lower fastening, on screws. — C. L.
Meller, Fargo, N. D.

Automatic Electric Light on Talking-
Machine Cabinet

In many homes the phonograph is
placed where little light is available in
changing the
records, setting
the needle, etc.
An electric light
which is lighted
only while the
cover of the
phonograph i s
raised, is well
worth installing.
A metal arm. A.
supports the
open cover of the
cabinet. When the cover is closed, this
arm passes through a slot and takes the
position shown by the dotted line. A

strip of spring brass, B, is fastened to
the inside wall of the cabinet, in the
path of the arm, so that it will be
pushed down to the off position, as in-
dicated. ^^'hen the arm releases the
strip B, the latter presses against the
contact C. A small electric lamp, D,
is set in the corner, and electrical con-
nection made to it through B and C, the
plug connections passing through the
back of the cabinet. When the cover
is down, the electric circuit is open, and
the moment it is raised, connection is
made at C, and the lamp lights. The
backs of most phonograph cabinets
may be removed easily to make these
changes. — M. C. Ball, Kansas Citv, Mo.

Device for Suspending Parcels from
Overhead Hooks

To hang small sacks or other articles
out of reach overhead, so that they may
be easily taken
down, I use a
double-eye hook
Avhich I made of
wire. A single
piece of wire is
used, and twisted
into two loops,
as shown, and
then formed into
a twisted hook.
I use a pole with
a nail, hooking
it into the lower
loop, to raise the
parcel ; this
leaves the upper
loop free to be hooked on the nail above.
— E. B. Warren, Garnet, Mont.

Steel Wool as Aluminum-Ware
Cleaner

It takes little trouble to keep alum-
inum pots and pans shining if they are
cleaned frequently with steel wool,
water, and a nonalkaline soap. Use a
very fine grade of the wool, and give
the utensils a few rubs frequently,
rather than attempt to clean them only
occasionally, when much soiled. — L.
P. Langan, Denver, Colo.

How to Make a Model Old-Four Monoplane

By RALPH M. BROWN

'T'HE old-four monoplane model,
-'- made famous by its wonderful
flights, is one of the most graceful that
has been built. Its large size and slow,
even glide make it a much more desir-
able flier than the ordinary dartlike
model. It gives one a true insight into
the phenomena of heavier-than-air
flight. This machine, when complete,
should weigh 9 oz. and fly 1,200 ft., ris-
ing from the ground under its own
power and landing lightly. Its con-
struction is
simple, and
with careful
reference to
the sketches,
an exact repro-
duction may
be made.

For the mo-
tor bases. A,
Fig. 1, secure
two spruce
sticks, each 48
in. long, % in.
wide, and I/4
in. thick, and
fasten a wire
hook on one
end of each
stick with "
thread wound around after giving it a
coat of glue. These hooks are "to hold
one end of the rubber bands that act as
the motive power, and are designated
by the letter B. At the opposite ends of
the sticks, at C, bearings are provided,
which consist of blocks of wood, each
1 in. long, 1 in. wide, and Sg in. thick.
These are also bound in place with
thread after gluing them. Holes are
drilled through the blocks lengthwise
and then lined with bushings made of

T.he Mechanical Bird will

Run About Five Feet on

the Ground and Then

Rise and Fly

brass tubing, 'jg in. in inside diameter.
The two motor bases A are connect-
ed with four cross sticks, D, each 9 in.
long and ^10 in. square. These are
bound and glued on the under side, one
near each end and the others equidis-
tant each from the other and from the
nearest end stick. The front bumper
E is made of round rattan, % in. in di-
ameter.

The alighting gear is next in order
of construction. This is made as shown

entirely of
bamboo- %a
in. square.
The pieces
marked F are
11 in. long; G,
9I/2 in. long,
and the cross
bar H, 11 in.
long. At the
rear, the pieces
J are 13 in.
long; K, 41/2
in. long, and
the cross piece
L, 11 in. long.
The distance
between the
points M and
N, Fig. 2, is 6
in., and between O and P, 9 in. The
bamboo is easily curved by W'etting and
holding it for an instant in the flame
of a candle. It will hold its shape
just as soon as it becomes cold. The
wheels are made of tin, II/3 in. in di-
ameter, borrowed from a toy automo-
bile. The axles are made from wire.
Ke in- in diameter.

The wing spars Q are made of
spruce, %6 in. wide and I/4 in. thick.
Those for the front are 30 in. long, and

163

16J:

for the rear, 36 in. long. The ribs R
are made of bamboo pieces, %6 'n.
square, 5 in. long for the front plane,
and 6 in. for the rear. These are bound
and glued on top of the spars, 3 in.
apart. They are given a slight upward
curve. The round ends are made of
%6-in. rattan.

It is rather difficult to make good
propellers, but with a little time and
patience they can be shaped and formed
into good proportions. Procure two
clear, straight-grained blocks of white
pine, 8 in. long, l^/^ in. wide, and %
in. thick. Draw a diagonal line on one
block from opposite corners, as shown
at S, Fig-. 3, then on the other block
T, draw the line in an opposite direc-
tion. Turn the blocks over and draw
opposite diagonals, as shown by the
dotted lines. Draw a circle on each
side exactly in the center, i/o in. in di-
ameter. Drill Ke-in. holes through the
centers of the circles for the propeller
shafts. The wood is then cut down to
the lines drawn, leaving only enough
material so that they will not break
easily. The face of the blades should
be flat and the back rounded. Leave
plenty of stock near the hub. After
the faces have been finished, the blades
are shaped as shown at U. The pro-
pellers should be finished with sand-

Aluminum paint costs but little, and it
makes a fine finish for a model aero-
plane.

The propeller shafts V, Fig. 1, 2, and
4, are cut from bicycle spokes. An eye
for the rubber band is bent in the
spoke, about 2 in. from the threaded
end. The end having the threads is
run through the bearing block C, Fig.
4, and the propeller fastened on with
a small washer on each side of it by
means of two nuts, W, cut from a bicy-
cle nipple. These nuts may be turned
up tightly with pliers.

The planes are covered with tissue
paper put on tightly over the tops of
the ribs, using a flour paste. The
planes are movably fixed on the motor
bases A by tying at the four points of
contact with rubber bands. This makes
it possible to adjust the fore-and-aft
balance of the machine by changing the
position of the planes.

The motive power, which is the most
important part of the entire machine,
consists of rubber bands. There are
three ways of obtaining these bands.
It is best, if possible, to purchase them
from an aeroplane supply house. In
this case, procure about 100 ft. of Yiq-
in. square rubber, 50 ft. for each side.
These are wound closely between the
hooks X. This rubber can be taken

paper to make them perfectly smooth,
as much of the success of the model
will depend upon them. It will be a
good plan to shellac them, and also
the frame and the alighting gear.

from a golf ball. It will require about
40 strands of this rubber, which is re-
moved by cutting into the ball, on each
propeller. Another way of obtaining
the bands is to purchase No. 19 rubber

165

bands and loop them together, chain-
fashion, to make them long enough to
reach between the hooks without
stretching. About 30 strands on each

machine and hooked into the eye in the
drill. Stretch the rubber out for about
10 ft., and as it is wound up, let it draw
back gradually. Wind up the propel-

The Alighting Gear is Made Entirely of Bamboo and Attached to the Under Side
of the Motor Frame

propeller will be sufficient. The hooks
X are made in the shape of the letter
"S," to provide a way for taking out
the rubber bands quickly. To prevent
the hooks from cutting the rubber, slip
some Mc-in. rubber tubing over them.
The rubber bands, or motor, when not
in use, should be kept in a cool, dark
place and powdered with French chalk
to prevent the parts from sticking to-
gether.

With the model complete, flying is
the next thing in order. With a ma-
chine as large as this one, quite a field
will be necessary to give it a good
flight. Test the plane by gliding it,
that is, holding it up by the propellers
and bearing blocks on a level with your
head and throwing it forward on an
even keel. Shift the planes forward or
back until it balances and comes to the
ground lightly.

Winding up the propellers is ac-
complished by means of an eye insert-
ed in the chuck of an ordinary hand
drill. While an assistant grasps the
propellers and motor bearings the rub-
ber is unhooked from the front of the

lers in opposite directions, turning
them from 400 to 800 revolutions. Be
sure to wind both propellers the same
number of turns, as this will assure a
straight flight.

Set the machine on the ground and
release both propellers at once, and at
the same time push it forward. If

Yj.'-iji

\ '1

,-— ^

■■ \ i!

''(^

v^y

1 ■ )

1',/

■'//■'A

..-J

The Most Difficult Part of Making the Propellers can
be Overcome with a Little Patience

everything is properly constructed ancf
well balanced, the mechanical bird will
run about 5 ft. on the ground and then

166

rise to 15 or 20 ft. and fly from SOO
to 1,200 ft., descending in a long glide
and alighting gracefully.

If the machine fails to rise, move the

The Motive Power, Which Is the Most Important
Part of the Machine, Consists of Rubber Bands

forward plane toward the front. If it
climbs up suddenly and hangs in the air
and falls back on its tail, move it to-
ward the back.

After the novelty of overland flights
has worn off, try flights over the water.
To do this the wheels must be removed
and four pontoons put in their place,
as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 2.
The pontoons are made over a light
frame, constructed as shown in Fig. 5.
The frame pieces are bamboo, Ys in.
square. Each one is 8 in. long, 4 in.
wide, and 2 in. deep. The covering
consists of writing paper glued in place,
after which the whole surface is cov-
ered with melted paraffin to make it
water-tight.

No doubt various methods will be
suggested by the time such flights are
made, such as smaller planes for rac-
ing, larger ones for altitude and dura-
tion, etc. To make the machine carry
weights, build a duplicate set of planes

Framework for Constructing Pontoons by Covering
Them with Writing Paper Soaked in Paraffin

and fasten them 6 in. above the others
by means of struts, ^ic in- square, form-
ing a tandem biplane, as shown by the
dotted lines in Fig. 3.

Patience is the one thing necessary
in model building. Sometimes a ma-
chine carefully made will not fly, and
no one can make it do so until some
seemingly unimportant alteration is
made.

How to Make a Pair of Trammels

The making of these trammels is a
very nice workshop problem for a
school, as it requires a very small
amount of stock and a corresponding
degree of skill, and at the same time
adds a little something to the general
shop equipment.

The brass is best procured in strips,
which may be had in different widths,
except the bar. which is y^ in. thick and
not less than % in. wide. The steel for
the points may be the ordinary steel,

BEND ON DOTTED LINES, ,..
BRASS 4'thiCK^^ lh~6'

Trammel Points

Made of a Nail

and a Brass

Strip to Fit

the Bar

or if the trammels are to be used on
woodwork, very satisfactory points can
be made of heavy nails.

Cut two pieces of brass, 41^ in. long,
and straighten them with a w'ood or
rawhide mallet on a surface plate.
Draw center lines both ways through
each piece and lay out the openings for
the bar with a sharp scriber, and make
a center-punch mark for the %-in. hole
that is to be drilled at the intersection
of the center lines. Mark the lines
where the piece is to be bent, and with
a pair of dividers lay out the ends and
shape them with a file.

The center hole and bar openings are
next drilled, and the latter finished by
filing. It is better to plane up a short
piece of hard wood, 14 by ^%6 in-, and

167

use it as a gauge in filing the rectan-
gular openings than to try to make
them by measurement. Polish the
brass pieces with a piece of fine emery
cloth or paper, rubbing it in straight
lines lengthwise of the stock.

The bending is done by clamping the
pieces in a vise and bending first one
side and then the other on the lines
indicated. This will require some care,
as the upper ends should be I14 i"-
apart on the inside when the bending is
complete. To insure the same angle
on both sides, a template of wood is
used, and the pieces are carefully bent
to fit it.

The holes for the points are reamed
tapering from the inside, where they are
riveted in place. The points are filed
to shape and polished, which is best
accomplished in a lathe. Clamp one of
the points in an upright position in a
\ise with the shouldered end up. Slip
one of the brass pieces in place and
rivet by upsetting the projecting end
with a light hammer. — Contributed by
J. A. Shelly, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Seeding Bare Spots on Lawns

A lawn that shows patches of grass
with bare spots, or only partly covered
with grass can be sown with seed that
will fill the uncov-
ered places by using
the tool illustrated.
It is made of a block
of wood, 1 in. thick,
into which several
large nails are driven
so that their ends
project about 1% in.
Another block is
fastened on top of
the nail heads to keep them from push-
ing out of their holes. A handle is at-
tached to the latter block.

The tool is used by driving it into
the earth where there is no grass, or
in thin places, and the grass seed is
sprinkled into the holes. In raking
over the lawn the young grass is not
so apt to be torn out and destroyed
before it gets a good root. — Contributed
by Edmund H. Trabold, Orange, N. J.

A Porch Swing

The seat of the swing consists of a
board, 30 in. long, 14 in. wide, and 1
in. thick, with holes bored in each cor-

A Porch Swing Having
a Rail That Incloses
the Person Sitting in It

ner for the ropes. The rail at the top
is made of four oak pieces, two of them
30 in. long, for the sides, and the other
two 18 in. long, for the ends; all 3 in.
wide and % in- thick. The ends of
these pieces are finished rounding, and
holes are bored in them for the sup-
porting ropes. The supports for the
rails consist of four pieces of %-in.
pipe, 15 in. long. The ropes are run
through the holes in the ends of the
rails, down through the pipes and
through the holes in the seat board,
where they are knotted.

A rope tied to a convenient post or
screw hook makes a handy way to give
motion by pulling. To get into the
swing, raise one of the side rails on the
rope. — Contributed by Ward M. Mills,
Bakersfield, Cal.

CCover the top and side of ice in a
refrigerator with a piece of Canton
flannel, and the ice will last long-er.

168

Sheepshank Knot Used to Recover
Rope

The knot shown has a pecuHar char-
acteristic which enables a person to re-
cover the rope after letting himself

Only a Small Portion of the Rope will be Left
on the Projection

down from some elevated position.
After the rope has been tied firmly to
some support, as a limb of a tree, tie
this knot, or "sheepshank," as high up
as possible. Close inspection will show
that one of the three sections of the
knot holds no part of the weight below.
This section is identified as the por-
tion which projects through the loops
A and B at both ends. The other sec-
tions project through at one end only.
When the knot has been arranged,
slide down carefully to a position just
below it and cut the rope at C ; then
descend to the ground. By shaking
the rope the knot may be loosened,
and only a short piece will be left
attached to the support. — Contributed
by F. R. Gorton, Ypsilanti, Michigan.

Writing Two Colors on a Plain- Ribbon
Typewriter

To write red, or any other color, on a
one-color ribbon typewriter place a
long enough piece of red carbon paper,
or the color desired, between the rib-
bon and the paper. It will hold its place
quite well, does the work as well as a
two-color ribbon used on expensive
machines, and does not cost very much.
— Contributed by Leslie E. Turner,
New York City.

A Simple Card Deception

The effect of this trick is not new, but
the method is a new one. A card is se-
lected by a spectator and noted, then
returned to the pack, which is shuttled
by the one drawing the card. Despite
the thorough mixing the correct card is
located b}' cutting the pack. The secret
is this : When the card is chosen, the
chooser is allowed to remove it from
the pack. The performer then takes it
and holds it up and asks the audience
to fix it in their minds. While doing
this, allow the thumb nail of the index
finger to slightly graze the edge of the
card. This will not show, nor can it be
detected by the holder, and he suspects
nothing of the kind. When returned to
the deck and shuffled the pack is evened
up for cutting. A glance at the edges
will show a small white spot distinctly,
as the scraped edge will contrast with
the other soiled cards. It is simple to
cut the pack from this key. — Contrib-
uted by John C. Moorehead, Minneap-
olis, Minn.

Catching Minnows for Bait

Instead of chasing the little fish up
and down the stream to catch enough
for bait, try putting a clean bit of shell
in a wide-mouth jar and holding it in the
water. The minnows will be attracted
in great numbers, and it is an easy mat-
ter to dip them up. A bit of shell can
be used also in a net. The white, shin-
ing shell seems to be a good lure for the
little fellows. — Contributed by Miriam
Colchester, Amherst, Can.

169

Grinding Writing and Lettering Pens

A fine or coarse writing or lettering
pen can be produced quickly by means
of an oilstone. By rubbing it at the
sides of the nibs, the pen is made finer,
and grinding across the ends makes it
coarser. By grasping the penholder in
the normal writing position, and writ-
ing lightly on the surface of the stone,
the pen may be ground to the style of
the user, making it write more smooth-
ly. If the pen scratches, a slight touch-
ing up on the stone, which should be
a fine hone, will remedy the difficulty.

Pneumatic Door Check Made
of Bicycle Pump

A door was provided with a heavy
coiled spring that caused it to slam
shut, and in order to overcome this
nuisance, a check was made from an
old liicycle pump. The fittings being
worked out neatly, did not mar the
appearance of the woodwork. Band,
iron, % by IV2 in., was used for the
fittings. A clamp, as detailed, was
made to hold the end of the pump
cylinder. A bracket, S^A in. long, of

PROMT VIEW

This Neat and Effective Door Check was Made of

an Old Bicycle Pump and a Strip of Iron,

Shaped and Polished

similar iron was fastened to the door,
as shown, with screws, and the clamp

bolted to it. The end of the plunger
was extended and bent at a right angle,
so as to pivot in a small angle bracket
attached to the trim, as shown in the
front view. An air-release hole was
provided, as indicated, so that the air
was freed from the cylinder gradually
as the door closed, thus preventing
slamming. — P. P. Avery, Garfield,
New Jersey.

Convenient Tool Drawer
under Chair Seat

For the householder who does small
repairing occasionally at home, a slid-
ing drawer under
his working
chair will be
found a conven-
ience. The tools
are always
handy when he
sits down to his
work, and he can
put them away
again without
arising from the
chair. This ar-
rangement
is also useful in small shops where a
chair or stool is used for tinkering and
light bench work. — James M. Kane,
Doylestown, Pa.

Red Windows in Daylight
Photographic Workroom

Instead of the customary dark room,
with the expense of red incandescent
lamps or the evil-smelling oil lamp, the
photographer who works during the
day should have a red room, obtained
by means of a window with panes of
red glass. The amateur can cover the
windows with red cloth, through which
will penetrate a diffuse red light of the
desired quality. This is far superior to
the common practice of providing an
opaque screen, blocking up the win-
dows, etc., and the screen can be made
of red cloth instead of black cloth, just
as handily. Proper ventilation should,
of course, be provided. — Alfred J. Mil-
ler, Albuquerque, N. M.

170

A Model Paper Monoplane

That can be Steered

An interesting bit of paper construc-
tion is a small monoplane made from a
7-in. square of paper, folded as indi-

as shown at A and B in Fig. 3. Fold
the corners C and D upward to the
position C and D in Fig. 4. Fold cor-
ners G and H to the corresponding let-
ters in Fig. 5. Fold points J and K to
the corresponding letters in Fig. 6.

. f6ld on
dot.ted lines

The Method of Folding the Paper is Indicated Clearly in the Diagrams. Which are to be Followed in the
Order of Their Numbering, the Tail being Inserted Separately

cated in the diagram and provided with
a paper tail. This little monoplane can
V)e steered by adjusting the tail, and
even made to loop the loop in the
varying air currents. For the boy who
enjoys experimenting with such a
model this little construction ofifers
much instruction and entertainment,
and the grown-up who still has an in-
terest in such things will also find it a
worth-while job.

To make this model, fold a square of
medium-weight paper on the dotted
lines, as indicated in Fig. 1 in the dia-

Raise the points J and K, Fig. 6, and
fold them in so that the corners which
were below them in Fig. 6 now come
above them, as at L and AI in Fig. t'.
Fold the corner N back along the line
OP, Fig. 8, so that the shape of the
main portion of the model is as shown
in Fig. 9, at OP. Make the tail V/^ by
14 in. long, as shown in Fig. 10, and
paste it into position. This completes
the model, which can be steered by
bending or twisting the tail. — George
H. Stipp.

This Model Monoplane is Made of a Sheet of Paper,

Seven Inches Square, and can be Steered

by Bending or Twisting the Tail

gram. Then unfold the sheet and re-
fold it as in Fig. 2. Then bring the
folded corners A and B into position,

Roll-Film Spools Useful
in Economizing Pencils

Now that everyone should econo-
mize, short lead pencils should re-
ceive attention. A convenient length-
ener is easily made by removing the
metal ends from used film-camera
spools, the 3i/[-in. length being the best
size to use. The pencil is cut to fit the
unslotted end of the spindle tightly.
An eraser may be fitted in the slotted
end. In a school quite a saving was
made by collecting the short pencils
of the pupils and having them thus
fitted up in the workshop. — A. T. Moss,
Napa, Calif.

171

How to Use the Lawn Mower

Difficulty in the operation of a lawn
mower is often caused by failure to
use the machine properly. A lawn
mower cuts like scissors except that
one of the members is fixed. The cut-
ters pass over the cutting bar at an
angle and thus shear off the grass. The
machine tends to throw the grass oiT
to one side, usually toward the left ;
hence the machine should not be per-
mitted to throw the cut grass back into
the uncut patch. This may be pre-
\ented by passing around the lawn so
that the uncut grass is at the right of
the operator. — W. H. Ivruse, Fort
\\'avne, Ind.

Telegraph Recorder with Spool-and-
Pencil Indicator

A simple substitute for the some-
what complicated telegraph recorders
of the inking type may be constructed
of materials readily available to a boy.
The instrument shown in the sketch
was made in a short time and with no
special outlay. The base and the up-
right support are of wood. The arma-
ture A was made of a strip cut from a
tin box, and folded to a length of 4 in.

The recording device consists of a
short piece of pencil, P, set in a spool,
S. The electromagnet IM is fixed to
the base, and the armature A is actu-
ated when current is permitted to pass
through the magnet, causing the re-
cording pencil to move vertically. A
strip of paper is moved slowly under
the pencil, and in order to make the

The Telegraph Recorder v/as Made of Materials That
may be Gathered Easily by Boys

record regular a small channel-shaped
guide of metal may be arranged under
the pencil. — William Warnecke, Jr.,
New York City.

Campers' Bait Cache

Campers desiring a sure supply of
angleworms for fishing will find the
bait cache shown in the sketch con-

Angleworms for
Fishing Bait may
be Kept Satisfac-
torily in the
Buried Bo.\,
Covered with Sod

venient and practical. A box, about
18 in. long and 10 in. square on the end,
is sunk into the ground in a shady
place, and all the bait dug by the camp-
ers on their arrival is placed into it.
The soil used to fill the box should be
rich, black loam, quite moist but not
wet enough to be sticky. A few inches
of the top of the box is left unfilled and
a double layer of green sod is fitted
over it, as shown in the sectional view
at the right. The upper sod is ar-
ranged level with the surface of the
ground and should be cut carefully so
that it will not be observed by
prowlers. If the region where fishing
is to be done is such that angleworms
cannot be obtained easily, it is best to
dig them before starting for the camp.
The bait cache may then be made as a
convenient place in which to keep the
bait in good condition for fishing.

CAfter cleaning a shotgun, or a rifle, a
cork large enough to be seen readily
should be placed in the end of the bar-
rel to prevent rusting. The cork
should not be pressed into the end
deeply as, if it is forgotten and the fire-
arm discharged without removing it,
a dangerous explosion may result.

A Sail -Rigged Wind Motor

By E. R. HENDERSON

AMPLE power for driving light ma-
chines in a repair shop was ob-
tained by the use of a wind motor like
that shown in the sketch and in the de-
tail drawings. The device has numer-
ous other applications, particularly as a
substitute for wind motors that require
a high tower, as in the driving of a
pump. As an interesting and inexpen-
sive means of providing power for a
home or boy's workshop, or as an
experimental
device, the
motor is also
worth while
making. The
■ materials used
are easily ob-
tainable, and
the construc-
tion can be
carried out
with ordinary
tools, for the
most part.
The driving
connections
may be ob-
tained from
o 1 d machine
parts. The
dimensions
given are for
a motor of
considerable
size, and may,
of course, be
reduced p r o-
portionately
for a lighter
machine. If
the 'device is
made by boys,
the frame-
work and
other parts should be made one-half
as large as the sizes indicated. The
wood used should then be three-fourths
as thick as that shown. The roof of
the structure upon which the device is
mounted must be well braced and
strong enough to stand the strain. The
sails are headed toward the wind, like

This Novel Wind Motor Developed Power for the Driving of

Machines in a Repair Shop, and can be Made in

Various Sizes for Work or Play Purposes

those on a sailboat, when the motor is
at rest, by means of a control rod, F,
shown in the working drawing-.

The main structural portion is a ver-
tical beam, or tower, tapered at the ends
and built up of 1 by l-in. rods, strongly
braced, especially in the lower portion,
as indicated. It is 14 ft. high, and built
around an 18-in. square board, A,
notched at the corners to receive the
posts. A similar 14-in. square, B, is

built into the
lower portion.
The lower end
of the tower is
pivoted on the
ridge of the
roof on a hol-
1 o w shaft
made from a
section of iron
pipe, D, and
provided with
a metal bear-
ing washer, E.
The pipe D is
split at its
upper end, as
shown in de-
tail, and fas-
tened to the
wooden plate
B. The con-
trol rod F
]) a s s e s up
through the
pipe D, and is
fixed to the
control wires,
reaching the
sails, by means
of a leather
strap, from
which an iron
swivel. C, is
suspended, as shown in the detail at
the left. The ends of the strap pass
over pulleys, fixed to the lower side of
the plate A, and connect with the sail-
control wires. Spiral wire springs are
attached to the wire connected to each
end of the strap, as shown only at the
right sail beam, and aid in controlling

172

173

The Method of Construction is Shown in Detail: By Using the Perspective Slcetch in Connection with
These Working Drawings, the Arrangement of the Parts is Readily Understood

the sails. These springs are adjusted
so that when the control rod is drawn
down to its lowest extent, the sails will
be witli the edge "into the wind," thus
neutralizing each other, and causing
the sail beam to be at rest.

The sail beam extends 9 ft. out from
the center of the tower, and is built
up of three pieces. The center section
extends through the tower, above the
plate A, and the brace beam, which
crosses it at right angles, as shown in
the perspective sketch, and also at the
detail of the strap arrangement. The
center section is of 1 by 4-in. stock,
and the end portions are of 1 by 2-in.
stuff, fastened securely, as shown at
detail G. The sails are supported on
masts, 1 in. square, pivoted at their
junctions with the sail beam, as shown

at detail G, and in guy-wire plates at
their extreme ends, as shown at detail
J. The fastening and bracing of the
gaf?s at the mast ends is also shown
at J.

The canvas sails are 4 by 4 ft., and
mounted on the booms, gaffs, and
masts. The ends of the booms nearest
the masts are weighted with lead, as
shown at detail G, and extend beyond
the masts. The outer ends of the
booms are joined in pairs, and connect
to the spring and strap control. The
guy wires N, of No. 18 wire, support-
ing the masts are fixed to the ends of
the sail beam and to the ends of the
brace beam, as shown in the sketch and
the working drawing. The fastening
at the ends of the sail beam is made
as shown at detail H, which also shows

one of the coil springs. All of the
braces for the masts should be fitted
carefully, so as to have the proper ten-
sion without interfering with the
action of the sails, before the tower is
set into its place. The device should
be tested on the ground, with the pivot
shaft set in a suitable support, before
attempting to mount it on a roof, or
other structure. The support for the
bearing should be fitted into the roof,
as shown. The power from the shaft
is transmitted to the bevel gears, and
from them to the drive shaft and the
belted pulley.

The main tower is supported on the
roof by means of strong guy wires, set
over four built-up guy towers of 1 by
1-in. wood, and 13 ft. long, as shown in
detail L. The towers must be set so

that the sail beam has proper play,
and be secured firmly to the rocf.
The top of the main tower is fixed to
the guy wires by means of a guy plate,
shown in detail K. A plan of the
arrangement of the sail beam, brace
beam_, and sail booms is shown at detail
M. The sail beam is braced by No. 13
guy wires, O, attached at the top of
the main tower, at the junction of the
two sections of the beam, and similarly
at the bottom of the main tower. The
fastenings of the wires and braces
should be made carefully, and they
should be examined thoroughly both
before and after the device is mounted
in place. Grease the pivoted and other
moving parts, and start the device
slowly, bringing the sails into the wind
as required for the desired speed.

\ Lawn Benches Made from Old

Bedsteads

i Old bedsteads were converted into
serviceable lawn, or porch, benches, as
shown in the photograph reproduced,
by the addition of a suitable seat, prop-

when painted green, to match other
outdoor furniture. — F. E. Tuck, Ne-
vada City, Calif.

- — ^V__».;-_ij.=_..~.=...... , :. .t__,r .--...'.....-vTj; -.r?--:

^|k^^^^^'''^ ■* j>J£r| » .-. ^ ^s^jfl^h^^jl^^B^B

WMl 'ammiSBiuMa^Kam^im^^^^^^^

Painted Green, These Rebuilt Bedsteads St. .^d
as Lawn Benches

erly supported. The transformation
was a simple one. Only the foot and
headpieces of the bedsteads were used.
The front legs and other pieces were
made from other wood. The front legs
are of square stock, about 2yo by 2Y2
in. The crosspieces, supporting the
wide board seats, are mortised into the
legs and fastened with glue and screws.
The seat is fastened from the under
side by cleats. The lumber was care-
fully planed and sandpapered so that
the benches presented a smooth finish

Repairing Wood-Wind Instruments

» Wood-wind instruments sometimes
"leak" at the joints or keys and make
playing of the instrument difficult.
Many such instruments are made in
sections, with ends that telescope to
form a tight fit. This fit is maintained
by the use of a cork band cemented
around the tenon end of the telescoping
joint. The renewal of these cork joints,
and the addition of new pads on the
keys, will make an old instrument
nearly as good as it was when new, so
far as playing is concerned, provided
the work is correctly done and the
wood of the sections themselves has not
cracked. Many musicians have spare
time and can do this work themselves.
The outlay for materials for the job is
from 75 cents' to $1.00. A small alcohol,
or even a kerosene, lamp and an old
knife, or old file, are required.

All traces of the old cork on the joint
can be removed with sandpaper, leav-
ing it as shown at the left. The cork
comes in strips of about the proper
thickness, and wide and long enough to
allow for trimming. The ends of the

175

strip should be beveled to make a Y^-in.
lap joint.

A small quantity of the cement is
heated over the lamp and six drops
poured on the joint ; then with the end
of the file, which should be heated also,
it is spread to give an even, thin coat-
ing. The beveled ends of the strip are
similarly treated. By working quickly
and carefull}', the coating on the joint
and strip are brought to a plastic state
by holding in the flame, and the strip is
quickly laid in place. Before the ce-
ment has time to harden, press the cork
in, forming a neat joint. Bind a rag
around the cork, leaving it until the
cement is thoroughly set.

The corked joint will be too large to
go into the joining section of the in-
strument. File and sandpaper it to a
twisting fit. Though the cork should
be truly cylindrical, it may be tapered
a trifle smaller at the forward end. A
coating of tallow applied to the joint
will make it easy-fitting, but air-tight
and moisture-proof.

The pads are disks of felt incased in
thin sheepskin. After long usage, they
become too hard to make an air-tight
fit. Repadding should, therefore, be an-
ticipated. Shellac will give good results
in putting on pads. It is heated until
liquid and poured into the key recess.
The new pad is pressed into the liquid
shellac, care being taken to have it well

SPACE TO
BE CORKED

CORKED JOINT-
PREPARED CORK-

FIH_ V^ITH SHEIXAC-'

The Cork is Fitted Carefully into Place,
and Glued

centered. For dififerent keys, it will be
necessary to use varying quantities of
shellac to make the pad sit higher or
lower, as required. — Donald A. Hamp-
son, Middletown, N. Y.

CA simple method of bracing a screen
door is to stretch a stout wire diag-
onally across the lower portion of it.

Rustic Trellis to Shade Door or
Window

Proper preparation in the early
spring will make it possible for the
householder to shade doors and win-

Rustic Trellises are Easily Constructed and Wnen
Covered with Vines Add to the Attrac-
tiveness of the Home

dows from the hot summer's sun by
means of inexpensive rustic trellises
that add not a little to the beauty of the
home. A suggestion for a trellis at a
doorway and one for a window are
shown in the illustration. They are
made of straight tree trunks and small
limbs, having the bark on them. The
curved portions of the window trellis
may be made easily by using twigs that
are somewhat green. Morning-glories,
or other suitable climbing plants, may
be trained over the trellises. — J. G.
Allshouse, Avonmore, Pa.

Making Scale Enlargements with a
Rubber Band

For reducing or enlarging maps, and
similar drawings of irregular design,
the device shown in the illustration will
replace the ordinary instruments, and
enable the draftsman to turn out a

irc

given amount of work in much less
time than required when proportional
dividers are used. The materials
needed are an eraser, a rubber band,

This Simple Device Is Useful in Enlarging or
Reducing Drawings and Maps

two pins, two thumb tacks, and a few
drops of rubber cement. From the
eraser two pieces are cut, as shown in
the sketch, about 14 by \<2 by 1^4 in.
Cut deep slits in each end of these
pieces. Insert the end of the rubber
band, cut at the splice, in one of these
slits and place a thumb tack in the
other. A pin is thrust through the
eraser and trimmed close, to prevent
the thumb tack from tearing the eraser.
Cement the slits with rubber cement,
and place the assembled device under
a book weight, until the cement has
set.

Assuming that a contour map is to
be enlarged, the rectangular divisions
of the original map, ordinarily section
lines or the boundaries of quarter sec-
tions, are drawn on the larger sheet as
a base for the reproduction. Place the
device on the original map, as indi-
cated, the edge of the rubber band
touching a "horizontal" section line be-
tween two "vertical" ones, the rubber
band under slight tension. On the
black surface of the band, dot white

points, with water color, along the sec-
tion line at which the contour lines
intersect it. Also place a dot at each
end of the band to indicate the position
of the two "vertical" section lines be-
tween which the band is set.

Transfer the device to the same rela-
tive position on the enlargement,
stretching the rubber band. Make dots
at each end, denoting the "vertical"
section lines, for the corresponding
lines on the enlargement. The series
of intermediate points along the band
will be in the same relative position
on the enlargement as they were on
the original. They can be connected
on the enlargement with as accurate a
result as obtained by the use of propor-
tional dividers, and more rapidly.

After the points are indicated upon
the enlargement, the reproducing de-
vice is removed and the surface of the
rubber band cleaned instantly by
touching it with a moist cloth. The
exposed part of the rubber band is a
variable, and the device can be made
with this dimension adapted to the
work. It is capable of enlarging or
reducing at a ratio not greater than
six to one, above which the rubber
band approaches its elastic limit. — H.
L. Wiley, Seattle, Wash.

Signal Telegraph with Green and Red

Lights

By arranging a circuit with batteries,
lights, and keys, as shown in the dia-
gram, a signal
telegraph may be
made that will
afford much
pleasure to boys
and may be used
for practical pur-
poses. The keys
A and B are
wired into the
circuit with a
battery C and a
red and a green incandescent lamp. A
simple set of signals may be devised
easily so that messages may be sent in
the code. — James R. Townsend, Itasca,
Texas.

irr

A Circular Swing

By DAVIS FOSS GETCHELL

WHILE on the farm I constructed
a circular swing which proved
very attractive to my boys and their
friends. By its side, and suspended
from the same tree branch, was an ordi-
nary swing. During the eight weeks
of our stay the latter was seldom in
use. The circular swing was a far
greater favorite with
all the young people,
boys and girls alike.
Around a branch
of a large elm and 18
or 20 ft.'from the tree
trunk was looped a
10-ft. length of chain,
and to the hanging
end of this was made
fast a 1-in. rope
nearly 10 ft. longer
than was needed to
reach the ground.
Directly beneath the
point where the
chain went around
the limb, a s de-
termined by a plumb

bob, was set a 6-in. piece of cedar post
3I/2 ft. into the ground. This was
sawed off square 2i/4 ft. above the
ground. Into the top of this post was
set a i/o-in. rod, to serve as a pivot for
the swing. It was set in firmly about
G in. and projected about 3 in. from
the top of the post.

The Circular Swing will be Found Very Safe and Pleasurable, but, as in the Case of an Ordinary Swing,
Anyone Careless Enough to Get in the Way of It will Get Badly Bumped

178

A straight-grained piece of pine
board, 15 ft. long, 8 in. wide, and 1 in.
thick, was procured and a liole bored
in one end large enough to make it
turn freely on the pin in the upper end
of the post. Two holes were bored in
the other end of the board large enough
to admit tlie rope. The first hole was
6 in. from the end, and the second hole,
3 ft. The hanging end of the rope was
passed down through one of these
holes and back up through the other
and then made fast to itself about 3
ft. above the board after the board had
been adjusted so that it would swing
throughout its length at the height of
the post, or 21/2 ft- from the ground.
The swing was then complete except
for a swivel, which was put in the rope
within easy reach of one standing on
the board, so that it could be oiled.

One good push would send the board
with a boy on the end three or four

times about the 90-ft. circle. The little
fellows would like to get hold of the
board in near the post and shove it
around. Once started, it could be kept
going with very little effort.

In putting up such a swing, make
sure to have the post set solidly in the
ground, as it has a tendency to work
loose. Tie all the knots tightly. Do
not look upon the swivel as unneces-
sary. The first swing I put up was
without one, and the rope twisted off
in a few days.

It is not necessary to climb a tree;
just throw a stout cord over the limb
by means of a stone or nut tied to the
end, then haul the rope and chain up
over the limb with the cord. Before
the chain leaves the ground loop the
end of it and pass the cord through the
loop. The higher the limb from the
ground the better the swing will work,
but 25 ft. will be about right.

Hand-Operated Motorboat Whistle

Anyone with a power boat can cc>n-
struct a blower for the whistle very
cheaply. The whistle is attached to a

yf^^rt^v;:;!,'

.-=-.•

•.W;

[l._.-

I J^^

>i^SPRING

Bellows Operated by Hand for Blowing a Whistle
on a Power Boat

suitable length of pipe, threaded on
each end. The blower is made of two
white-pine boards, 1 in. thick, cut as
shown at A; a thin piece of leather is
cut like the pattern B, to form the bel-
lows part, and after it is shaped, the
edges of the boards are glued and the
leather placed in position, where it is

fastened with tacks driven in about 1
in. apart. The bellows are fastened to
the under side of a seat with screws,
and a tension spring is attached to the
bottom of the bellows and the floor of
the boat. A cord is fastened to the
lower board of the bellows and run up
through to the cabin roof over suitable
pulleys to a handle within convenient
reach of the operator. — Contributed by
John I. Somers, Pleasantville, N. J.

Filling In Broken Places on Enamel

Ordinary putty will not do to fill in
cracks or broken spots on an enameled
surface, such as a clockface. Fine
sealing wax is much better, as it hard-
ens at once, takes color without absorb-
ing the oil, and does not shrink like
putty. Use a wax of the proper color
to match the surface as closely as pos-
sible. Fit it in and smooth with a
warm, flexible piece of metal, such as a
palette knife. Give it one or two coats
of thin color to exactly match the other
surface, and varnish. If the article has
not a high polish, the gloss of the var-
nish can be cut a little with pumice
stone.

0 ¥(■ 'gSV**^

^-^ ^r-i^

A Twisting Thriller Merry-Go-Round

By R. E. EDWARDS

"OTEP right up; three twisting

O thrillers for a penny — a tenth of
a dime !" was the familiar invitation
•which attracted customers to the de-
lights of a homemade merry-go-round
of novel design. The patrons were not
disappointed, but came back for more.
The power for the whirling thriller is
produced by the heavy, twisted rope,
suspended from the limb of a tree, or
other suitable support. The rope is
cranked up by means of the notched
disk A, grasped at the handle B, the
car being lifted off. The thriller is
stopped when the brakeplate I rests
on the weighted box L.

Manila rope, % in. or more in diam-
eter, is used for the support, and is
rigged with a spreader, about 2 ft. long,
at the top, as shown. The disk is built
up of wood, as detailed, and notches,
C, provided for the ropes. The rope is
wound up and the car is suspended
from it by the hook, which should b
strong, and deep enough so that it can-
not slip out, as indicated at H.

The car is made of a section of 2 by
4-in. stufif, D, 10 ft. long, to whic
braces, E, of 1 by 4-in.
stufif are fastened with
nails or screws. The
upper ends of the pieces
E are blocked up with
the centerpiece F,
nailed securely, and the
wire link G is fastened
through the joint.

The seats J are sus-
pended at the ends of
the 2 by 4-in. bar, with
their inner ends lower,
as shown, to give a better seating when
the thriller is in action. The seats are

supported by rope or strap-iron brack-
ets, K, set 15 in. apart. The box
should be high enough so that the seats
do not strike the ground.

Kinks for the Talking Machine

When short of fiber needles or when
the jewel needle has broken, file down
the tooth of a

bone comb to
the required
point, and it will
serve well. It
the needle arm
becomes 1 o o s -
ened from the
diaphragm, and
no wax is handy.

The Supporting Ropes are Wound Up at the Disk A, the Car is Hooked

into Place, and the Passengers Take Their Seats for a Thrilling

Ride, Until the Brakeplate I Rests on the Box

a bit of soft chewing gum makes an
excellent temporary repair. US'" a

179

180

magnet to pick up steel needles from
the receptacles on the machine, to save
time and avoid punctured lingers. If
the machine is too loud for the room,
placing a piece of loose cotton in the
tone arm, directly behind the repro-
ducer, is more effective than muffling
the sound at the horn end. — L. B. Rob-
bins, Attleboro, Mass.

A Wire-Walking Toy

A daring wire-walking performer
who, unmindful of the fact that a mis-
step may mean destruction, keeps on

S, back and

gom

forth, so long as
the motor runs,
or the crank is
turned, is a toy

Adapted to Window Displaj^s, This Amusing Toy Has
an Advertising Value

that boys can make easily. The wire is
stretched, not across Broadway, but
between two 1 by 1-in. standards, held
upright by guy cords, or fixed to a base-
board. They are fitted with forked
tops, at A and B, and pulley wheels, C
and D. A wire, F, is fastened to two of
the prongs, at E, and a black thread, G,
runs over the pulley wheels. A car-
riage, I, is formed from a 12-in. length
of stiff wire, and weighted, at L. to
balance upon the tight wire. The figure
K is cut from stiff paper, and made to
turn upon the carriage upright J. and
braced with thread, at H. Thus the
figure is always drawn forward, revolv-
ing on the support J at the end of each
trip. Power to turn the thread is trans-
mitted from a hand crank or motor, M,
bv means of the double pullev wheel at
D.— Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla,
Washington.

Double Roofs Provide Ideal Shade
for Poultry Coops

Having no native shade in our city
chicken yard, we noticed one summer
that the hens, especially those in the
low brooder coops, became droopy and
exhausted from the excessive heat. We
studied the construction of the U. S.
Weather Bureau thermometer shelter,
which usually stands out in the sun,
and is no larger than our brooder
coops. It has a double roof with free
air-circulation space between the roofs,
hence the inclosed thermometers are
exposed to a true-shade temperature.
We then placed an extra roof on each
of the brooder coops, leaving a 6-in.
open air space between, the top roof
being supported at the corners only.
The arrangement proved so effective
that the hens sought the coops, against
the heat of unventilated inclosures on
quiet, hot days. — J. Cecil Alter, Chey-
enne, Wyo.

An Illuminated Indicating Target Box

The joys of target practice are often
hampered by the delays in the settle-
ment of hits. It takes time and is
annoying to be constantly advancing to
the target to examine it. To do away
with this, an illuminated target was
constructed that enables the shooter to
locate every hit without leaving his
post. To make the device, a square
wooden box of convenient size is ob-
tained. In one side of this, cut a round
hole as large as the largest ring on the
targets used. The side opposite this is

pSHEET I ROM

fTARGET-

rSHEET IRON
WIRES

jp^gsii];

FRONT VIElVy

CROSS SEICTION

INTERIOR OF
FRONT

The Location of Hits is Recorded by a Beam of Light
Streaming through the Hole Shot in the Paper Target

fitted with a piece of sheet iron to stop
the bullets. Paint this iron and the
interior white. Inside the box, arrange

181

four electric lights so their rays will
be thrown on the hole, as shown.
Candles may be used, if necessary. The
lamps must be out of range of the
bullets, that hit the target, and pro-
tected by an iron plate. The targets,
painted on thin paper, are fastened over
the front of the hole, and the
lights are on, while shooting. Each
shot punctures the paper, and the light
streaming through the hole will show
the location of the hit. — Thomas W.
Benson, -Philadelphia, Pa.

Kinks in Washing Photographic
Ne^,atives and Prints

Photographic defects, spots, stains,
.^tc, are often due to inadequate wash-
mg. In the common method of wash-
ing negatives or prints under the tap,
in a dish, the water is not changed
quickly enough. If the negatives are
placed film downward and supported at
the edges, the washing is quicker and
more thorough. Films as well as glass
negatives are in the same class in the
matter of washing. Films should not
stick together, and the sharp edges
must not be permitted to cause
scratches.

Bird House Made of an Old Straw Hat

A bird house of an old straw hat is
a practical and easily contrived affair.
Cut a hole in the
crown of the hat.
Then nail the hat
against a board
of proper size.
To protect the
hat against the
rain, put a roof
over it, as shown.
A perch is also
provided. Such a
bird house can be
hung against the
trunk of a tree,
or nailed against a wall. Leaving the
hat in its natural straw color, and
painting the rest a dark brown, pro-
duces a satisfactory effect. — C. L. Mel-
ler, Fargo, N. D.

Camp Shelter Affords Protection
from Mosquitoes

When it is undesirable to stay in a
camping tent, on warm nights or dur-
ing the day when a siesta is taken,

Lithe Branches Cut in the Woods are Used for the
Framework, Which is Covered with Mosquito Netting

a mosquito shelter can be made of
materials readily available at most
camping places. The arrangement, as
shown, is made as follows: Procure a
number of pliable switches, about %
in. in diameter, and S or 10 ft. long,
willow or similar growths. Sharpen
the butts, and force them into the
ground in two rows, S^^'o ^t. apart. Bend
the tops together, and tie them in
arches of the same height, as indicated.
Next, tie a ridge binder the entire
length. Cover the frame with mos-
quito netting, providing an entrance at
one end. The shelter shown is for one
person, but may easily be made larger.
The fly, supported on a rope between
posts or trees, affords shade. — J. T.
Trammell, Milwaukee, Wis.

CThe annoyance of a chair rocking on
a bare floor, especially a child's rocking
chair, may be overcome by tacking
sections of garden hose along the
curved rockers. If properly done this
also adds to the comfort of the chair.

188

Rustic Well for a Bazaar or Fair Booth

A feature of a bazaar which attracted
much attention was a rustic well from
which a pretty girl dipped cool drinks

■A Pretty Country Maid, Delicious Lemonade, a
Peep into the Well, and Music from a Phono-
graph Were Attractions at This Booth

with the aid of an "old oaken bucket."
The arrangement may also be used at
an outdoor fair or lawn party.

A corner of the room was marked
off by a rail fence and turnstile. The
floor was covered with green cloth and
green excelsior, for grass. The well
was constructed as shown in the detail
sketch. Half of a barrel, B, with the
head removed, was inverted, and a mir-
ror, C, was set in a shallow pan of
water on the floor. The pan was sur-
rounded with pebbles, D, and a frame-
work, E, built over the barrel. The
supply of lemonade was kept cool in
the tub G, behind the partition. When
the bucket A was lowered into the
well, by means of the sweep, it was
filled by pouring the beverage in the
trough F. The bucket was then raised
and the drinks served from it, a cocoa-
nut-shell dipper being used.

So many persons became curious to

learn how the well was constructed,
that an admission fee was charged to
pass the turnstile, and the reward was
a peep at the reflection in the mirror
at the bottom of the well. — Susan E.
W. Jocelyn, New Haven, Conn.

Novel Masks for Printing Pictures

In printing pictures, I have made use
of various masks, and those suited to
the particular picture, for some special
reason, have proved especially popular.
For instance, in making a picture for
a contractor and mason, a mask in the
shape of a trowel was used ; for a
policeman, a star; an automobile for
the motorist. Sometimes the special
interests of persons in a picture, or the
background, will suggest good outlines
for masks.— Russell Waldo, Indian-
apolis, Ind.

2KT\-D

C I

:0 >i

"m:

5-.5-I

^3"

atari
BJ E

r C,^

),-i>

Sheet-Metal Stand for Flatiron

Considerable energy is consumed in
lifting a heavy flatiron to the stand
which protects

the ironing |' -9" 'i i

board. The de-
v i c e shown in
the illustration
was made to
overcome this
objection to
most flatiron
stands and
proved efficient,
as well as easy
to make. The
iron is shoved
onto the stand at
one end, p r o -
vided with an
incline. The lay-
out for the sheet
metal is shown
in detail. The
piece A is cut
■iy^ by 9 in., and
the stop B, the incline C, and the leg
D, are cut as shown, and bent to shape.
The stand is fastened near the end of
the ironing board by means of screws.
— Ernest Ward, Detroit, Mich.

Water -Coasting Toboggan and Slide

By D. J. HOUGH

COASTING down an incline and
being projected through the air
to plunge into the warm water of a
summer lake, or other outdoor bath-
ing spot, has thrills and excitement
that appeal to the person seeking a
new aquatic diversion. The illustra-
tion shows a slide, and the toboggan
sled for use on it, that were built by a
group of young men at a summer resort.
While the slide shown is perhaps more
extensive than most boys would care
to undertake, the principle involvet
may be adapted easily to others one-
fourth as long, less than 20 ft. The
slide shown was strongly built of 2 by
4-in. material for the framework, 2 by
6-in. planks for the slide guide's,

cline, since this may result in acci-
dents. A location where the ground
is suitable should be selected rather
than assume danger or risk.

The end of the slide nearest the
water may be given a slight upward
turn, so that when the toboggan leaves
it the rider is carried upward before
striking the water. The hold on the
toboggan should be retained when en-

fxt»^^r**f^^rfs^^^*r^^**^*^^^*^^^^**jff^f^^^f*^r^^*rr*j'^^f^

2 by 12-in. planks for the bearing for
the roller. Lighter material may be
used for the guides and the roller bear-
ing on a smaller slide, but the frame-
work should be of 2 by 4-in. stock.

The high end of the slide illustrated
is about 7 ft. from the ground, but a
proportionately greater incline is pro-
vided because the beach slopes grad-
ually to the water's edge. It is reached
by a ladder fixed to a tree, which acts
as an end brace for the slide. If no
such natural support is available, the
end of the slide must be strongly
braced on three sides, to insure safety.
It is inadvisable to build the slide un-
duly high to provide the necessary in-

Thrills and Excitement That will Satisfy the Swim-
ming Enthusiast and Provide a New Summer Diversion
at the Lake or River may be Had from the Water
Toboggan and Slide. It may be Adapted to a Smaller
Size and Built by Boys. The Details of the Tobog-
gan and the Construction of the Slide are Shown in
the Sketches Above

tering the water, as injury may result
by failure to clear it in the plunge.

183

184

With experience a dive may be made
as the toboggan leaves the slide.

The construction of the slide is
shown in detail in the lower sketch.
The framework of 2 by 4-in. material
should be only slightly wider than the
guides, and the supports should be
spread toward the ground to give ri-
gidity. The supports A should be
nailed firmly, or bolted, to the hori-
zontal members B. If lighter stock is
used, the pieces at B should be nailed
in pairs, one on each side of the up-
rights. The guides C and D should be
of smooth lumber, and the edges of
these pieces, as well as of the bearing
plank E, should be rounded off to re-
move splinters. The joints in the sec-
tions of the guides should be made
carefully and placed over the frame-
work supports. They should be rein-
forced from the lower side by plates of
wood.

The bearing plank E is of 3-in. stock
and 13 in. wide. It may be made of
lighter material in a smaller slide. The
joints in it should likewise be maoe
carefully, to insure smooth riding over
them. They should be set directly over
the framework supports, but not on
those over which joints have been made
in the guides. The plank forming the
bearing for the roller should not ex-
tend to the end of the slide at the lower
end, bvit should be set back about 18
in. This permits the toboggan to slide

off smoothly rather than to spring di-
rectly into the air from the bearing on
the rollers. The bearing plank may be
nailed into place, but care must be
taken to set all nails below the surface.
A better construction is to use screws
or bolts. Bore holes for them through
the plank, countersinking their heads.

The toboggan, as shown in the de-
tail sketches, is built strongly, and is
to be fitted over the 12-in. bearing
plank, allowing i/4-in. play on each side.
The sides are of li/4-in. stock and high
enough to accommodate the rollers,
which should be about 3 in. in diame-
ter. The dimensions of 15 in. in width
and 30 in. in length, on the top sur-
face, are suggestive only, and will vary
with the materials used. The tobog-
gan will not stand the necessarily hard
wear unless good-quality oak, or other
hard wood, is used. The top and foot
brace should be fixed strongly with
screws, their heads countersunk.

The rollers are fixed in the sides by
means of screws, or a bolt may be set
through the length of the roller. In
either case the bearing should be in
holes bored through the sidepieces.
^Vashers should be fitted at the sides
of the bearing?, and the latter must be
kept greased. All the edges and cor-
ners of the toboggan should be rounded
off so that there is little possibility of
injury from slivers or contact with the
edges.

Tile Trap for Rabbits

Rabbits may be trapped in order to
rid grounds of them, or for food pur-

±^.

smaller opening of G in., is set in the
ground with the large end projecting.
Rocks are placed around it and it is
nrovided with a cover. Several exten-
sions are attached to the 6-in. opening
and the end permitted to project
slightly from the ground. Rocks are
also placed about this opening. The
rabbit enters the trap at the small open-
ing and is free to come and go from
the burrow. By closing the small
opening, the quarry may be taken out
at the large opening.

B> Closing the Smaller Opening, the Rabbit may be
Trapped and Removed at the Cover

poses, by the use of the tile trap shown
in the illustration. A tee, having a

CVaseline is a good cleaner for com-
mutators while machines are in oper-
ation and under load.

A Woodsman's Log Raft

By A. M. PARKER

MAKING a raft for crossing a
stream, or other small body of
water, is often a diversion for campers,
who have the usual supply of camp
tools and materials. The woodsman
is sometimes confronted with a diiTer-
ent situation : He has only a hand ax
as his tool equipment, and to construct
a fairly safe raft of crude materials
becomes necessary in order to pursue
his course. Logs are readily available,
and he may be fortunate enough to find
willow withes, various stringy kinds of
bark, or even coarse seaweed. If these

are not available, the practical woods-
man, particularly of the northern re-
gions, builds a raft of logs, pinned to-
gether firmly with poles and pointed
wooden spikes, cut on the spot. The
method, as shown in the illustration,
is simple and interesting. It may be
of service in the woods even when
other methods of binding the logs into
a raft are possible, and as a practical
test of woodcraft for the amateur or
boy camper it is of interest. The
sketch shows the completed raft, bound
together by wooden pins notched into

'ir '■(lyf'^F^

J7/ / I ] END VIEW \',\<:'A

51, 'W y Of CROSS PIECE V . ','v{'4i

A !i fj

^ •; 1 j:

END VIEW kf- •^
// OF LOG f- ***

The Inventive Woodsman Builds His Log Raft of Simp'e Material's Gathered at the River Bank; the Logs
and Poles are Notched Together Firmly and Held with Wooden Pins

185

186

poles, and the inset details show the
manner in which the poles are clamped
by the crossed pins.

This method of construction may be
applied to a variety of rafts, for car-
rying small or large loads. In select-
ing the material for the raft several
points must be considered. Dry logs
are preferable to wet or green ones,
and if the latter are used, a relatively
larger raft will be needed to carry a
certain load. For one passenger, three
logs, 9 to 13 in. in diameter, 12 to IG
ft. long, and spaced to a width of 5 ft.,
will provide a stable raft. Poles may
be laid across it to give sufficient foot-
ing. For heavier loads the logs should
be about the same length and diameter,
but spaced closer together, and laid to
form a raft of considerable width and
of greater buoyancy.

Select a shore, sloping gently into
the water, if possible, and cut the
logs and poles as near this place as is
convenient. Cut the logs and roll
them to the bank, alternating the butts,
if there is any considerable difference
in the diameter of the ends. Cut a sup-
ply of poles of about 3-in. diameter,
and of the length necessary to reach
across the proposed raft. Then cut a
number of pins of hard wood, 1 ft. long,
and sharpened on one end, as shown in
the detailed sketch.

Roll the first log — one of the largest
— into the water until it is nearly float-
ing. If it is bowed or crooked, place
the "humped" side toward the outer
edge of the raft. Chop notches, 2 in.
deep, in the top of the log about li/o

ft. from the ends, and squarely across
Place a pole in the notch, with its end
projecting slightly beyond the log, and
cut a double notch in the upper edge
of the pole, as shown in the detail
sketches, so that when the pins are
driven into the log, they will rest
diagonally in the notches cut into the
poles. Make rifts in the log with the
ax, cutting as though to split off a slab
of bark and wood, rather than toward
the center of the log, and drive two of
the pins into place. Properly done,
this will make a remarkably strong
joint. Fasten a second pole at the
other end of the log. and prop up both
poles so as to permit the next log to
be rolled into the water, under the
poles.

Notch the second log before slipping
it finally into place. Alternate ends
only, of the inner logs, need be fas-
tened, and if time is important, some
of the logs may be left unfastened,
provided they are held tightly between
the logs that are pinned. Shove the
raft out into the water as each log is
added. If there is a strong current it
is desirable to guy the raft with a
pole to the bank, downstream. The
last log, which should also be a large
one, is then floated down and pinned at
both ends.

The raft may then be floated, and is
ready to be covered with light poles or
brush, to provide a dry footing and a
place for the dunnage. The dunnage
is placed near the forward end of the
raft, and the person controlling it
sculls with a pole at the rear.

Curved Printing Surface for Sharp
Focus in Bromide Enlargements

Practically all of my negatives are
of post-card size, and, in making bro-
mide enlargements, I experienced diffi-
culty in getting a satisfactory focus on
6 by 10-in. or 8 by 12-in. prints. When
the center of the picture was in focus
the outer portions were usually
blurred, and vice versa. Compromis-
ing between the two gave unsatisfac-
tory results. By providing a curved

surface, on which the bromide paper
is mounted, results were obtained that
are satisfactory except for architec-
tural subjects. A wooden box was
made as long as the desired print and

1 in. wider. The height may be made
as is convenient, but a height of about

2 in. is satisfactory. A partition was
fitted into the box, dividing its lengfth
into two compartments. The upper
edges of the center partition and the
ends of the box were cut in the shape
of an arc, the curve being determined

isr

by the distance from the lens to the
easel when the center of the picture is
in focus. Tlie bromide paper is fitted
to the curves on the box. The device
is fitted to the easel by means of two
strips fixed to the bottom of the box,
and extending beyond its ends. The
curved surface may be covered with
cardboard to give a better backing for
the bromide paper, which is held in
place by pins or small tacks. Where
only a small portion of the negative
is to be enlarged, this difficulty will
not present itself, the flat surface be-
ing satisfactor}-. — Victor Woodland,
Denver, Colo.

Playing Talking-Machine Records with
the Finger Nail

Talking-machine records may be
played with the finger nail, and a per-
son skilled in the process can afford a
party of spectators much amusement,
creating no little surprise. The record
is placed over a penholder, or pencil,
and supported by the left hand as shown
in the sketch. It is revolved by the
fingers of the left hand, and the nail of
the second finger of the right hand is
applied to the record. Practice is re-

Talking-Machine Records may be Played with the
Finger Nail after a Little Practice

quired to obtain satisfactory results and
an old record should be used. — George
S. Nissen, Chicago, 111.

C Finely powdered graphite dusted on
the parts of a motorcycle clutch when
repacking it after cleaning will act as
an excellent lubricant.

Safety Chopping Block

Chopping of pieces of wood, which
must be broken into short lengths, is
often dangerous. The chopping block

This Chopping Block Makes for Safety in That Pieces
Chopped are Thrown Away from the Worker

shown in the illustration was designed
to overcome this element of danger and
it may be used for chopping small kind-
ling wood as well as for breaking up
heavier pieces. When the blow is
struck on the wood to be broken the
pieces are thrown away from the per-
son chopping. The sketch shows the
device in use for the chopping of short
pieces of wood, and the heavy portion
may be used as a seat. The smaller
sketch shows how the block is built up
of 2-in. planks, bolted together. — A. S.
Thomas, Amherstburg, Canada.

Repairing a Broken Reed Handle

A strong repair for a broken reed
handle, like those on market baskets,
handbags, or workbaskets, may be
made by joining the broken parts with
a ferrule of tinned sheet metal, brads
or wire being used to prevent the ends
from working loose. After the metal
fitting has been made, the handle is
rewound with the ends of the material
unwound from it, or if desirable, the
entire handle may be re-covered with
material of the original kind or other

suitable substitute-
Portland, Ore.

-R. E. Brown,

188

Duck Decoys Mounted on Folding

Frame

The duck hunter who wishes to
economize by making some of his
equipment will be interested in the

Duck Decoys Mounted on a Folding Frame
may be Made by the Hunter

folding frame for duck decoys, shown
in the illustration. It is made of two
strips, % in. by 2 in. by 3 ft. 6 in., of
soft wood, and fitted with a bolt at the
middle, so that it may be folded, for
convenience in carrying. The decoys
are cut from a sheet of tinned metal,
and are painted to resemble the game.
— Carl A. Haberlein, McPherson, Kan.

Onlaying Script on a Trophy Cup

A novel method of inscribing names
or other indications on trophy cups or

Copper or Other Metal may be Deposited on the

Surface of the Cup, Making an

Effective Inscription

medallions is to onlay copper, or other
contrasting metal, upon the surface by

the process illustrated. Beeswax, or
paraffin, is fixed to the side of the cup
and formed into a dish shape, the sur-
face on which the onlaying is to be done
being covered with only a thin layer
of the wax. ^\'ith a needle or other
suitable instrument, scratch the mark-
ings desired through the thin layer of
wax to the surface of the cup. Pour
copper sulphate into the wax cavity,
if the onlay is to be of copper, and sus-
pend a small piece of pure copper in
the liquid, connected with the positive
pole of a storage battery, or other sim-
ilar electrical source. Attach a wire
from the negative pole of the battery
to the cup. The copper will be depos-
ited on the surface of the cup where the
thin layer of wax has been scratched
ofif, exposing the metal. The thickness
of the deposit will depend on the length
of time that the current is permitted
to flow. Ten hours of action will per-
mit the depositing of a satisfactory
onlay. — M. H. Edwards.

Economy in Motorcycle Tires

Caution in the use of motorcycle
tires with a minimum of abuse will
result in a considerable tire saving.
Tremendous wear on a single spot re-
sults when the power is thrown in so
suddenly that the driving wheel makes
several revolutions before gripping the
ground. The proper air pressure must
be maintained in the tires in order to
obtain good wear. Guessing is a poor
method of determining the air pressure,
and the exact condition should be noted
from time to time with a gauge. Or-
dinarily, a pressure of 45 to 50 lb.
should be maintained in the rear tire
and about 20 per cent less in the front
tire, in the case of 3-in. tires. Rim-
cutting from running motorcycle tires
underinflated is the commonest abuse.
Dents in the edge of the rims cause
undue wear on the tire, the fabric be-
ing worn through by the constant rub-
bing. Bent rims are often caused by
insufficient air pressure in tires, the
liability to injury being increased
when crossing tracks or bumps with
an improperly inflated tire.

A Knock- Down Tennis- Court Backstop

By EDWARD R. SMITH

Instead of setting-
ground, they are
and guyed by a

SEVERE weather soon damages a
tennis-court backstop that is built
on posts set in the ground, and per-
mitted to remain in place during the
winter. The backstop shown in the
illustration was designed to overcome
this objection, and proved efficient on
this score, as well as economical to
build and maintain,
the supports in the
set on the ground,
system of wire
braces. The wire
netting is also
held taut by wire
braces, and the en-
tire rigging is
quickly taken
down for storage,
and easily set up
when needed
again. The lower
edge of the wire
is held down by
hooks pinned to
the ground with
tent stakes, mak-
ing it convenient
to unhook the net-
ting when the
grass is to be cut
around the back-
stop. The towers
are 50 ft. apart,
about 14 ft. high,
and built up of 4
by 4-in. and 2 by
4-in. pieces of
sound yellow-pine timber.

Foundations of brick, anchored into
the ground, were made for the towers.
End braces of heavy wire, fastened to
the top, and guyed to the sunken

The Backstop is Taken Down between Seasons,

and can be Raised Quickly by Means of

the Supporting Cables

anchors at the ground, support the
towers against the weight of the net-
ting and wire rigging. This is con-
venient in setting up the arrangement,
as a ladder can be leaned against
the end of the tower, guyed securely.
To withstand side motion at the top
edge of the netting, the supporting
wires are carried on crossarms of 1 by
1-in. pieces of wood, 2 ft. long. This
is suspended between the
towers and wired
to the netting.
\V h e n this is
drawn up tightly,
the netting is
fairly taut. Ad-
ditional support-
ing wires, with
vertical leaders to
the netting, are
used to draw up
the entire length
of the netting
tautly, as desired.
The netting ex-
tends under the
towers, and is
supported there
by wires. As the
netting extends
nearly to the end
guy wires, players
cannot be harmed
easily by running
into the wires,
particularly if a
white flag is at-
tached to the guy wires, about 6 ft.
from the ground. Number 20 gauge
wire was used for the supporting
cables, and No. 9 for the end braces
extending to the anchored fastenings.

189

19ff

A Folding Ground Seat with Back
Rest

Those who enjoy sitting or lying
upon the grass while reading will find
the device shown in the illustration

SEAT FOLDED

This Seat Is Useful Out of Doors and Also for
Special Purposes Indoors

convenient and comfortable. With
this, one may enjoy the coolness of the
ground without harm to the person or
clothing. The adjustable back rest
supports the body in various positions.
The device is liglit, compact, and
readily transported. It is useful also
in the home and elsewhere. By plac-
ing it across the bed, or on a trunk, a
good substitute for an extra chair is
provided. The seat proper may be
folded under and the back rest used as
a prop for reading in bed.

Oak is a suitable wood, and other
common woods may be used. First
construct, according to the dimensions
given, three rectangular frames, with
mortise-and-tenon joints. Cover the
seat and back frames with heavy duck,
turning it in I2 in. at the edges. The
base is an open frame, provided with
adjusting notches, spaced 2 in apart.
Next make the adjusting frame, as de-
tailed. Hinge the back and the seat
to the base, and fasten the adjusting
frame to the back with screws, per-
mitting it to fold, as shown. — T. H.
Linthicum, Annapolis, Md.

Bicycle Carried on Automobile as
Tender

Steam yachts often carry a motor-
boat tender, and an automobile may
carry a bicycle for emergencies. An
autoist whose duties require him to
travel through rural districts, had nu-
merous unhappy experiences with a
stalled car until he hit upon this
scheme. The bicycle is strapped on
the running board of the car, its han-
dlebars turned flat against the side,
and its wheels in tire sockets in the
running board. A tank in the bicycle
frame holds several gallons, and if the
owner runs out of gasoline, he uses
the tender to get a supply, filling the
auto tank by siphoning the gasoline
through a flexilile tube. — John Miller
Bonbright, Philadelphia, Pa.

Heater Keeps Developer at Proper
Temperature

Having had trouble with developer
cooling down and failing to work prop-
erly, while de-
veloping in the
dark room, I
constructed the
apparatus
shown. A small
light - tight box
was made slight-
ly larger than
the tray, with a
removable top
having an open-
ing to hold the
tray. An electric-light socket was fas-
tened inside at one end of the box and
a lamn fitted to it. A wire was at-
tached across the middle of the lower
side of the box, so that the latter and
the tray could be rocked. The box was
lined with black paper and varnished
black. The edges of the opening in the
top were fringed with felt to guard
against light leakage. A thermometer
is used to determine the temperature.
\\'hen the developer cools, turn on
the light until it reaches the required
temperature. — John Hoeck, Alameda,
California.

Steam-Propelled Motorcycle Made by Mechanic

By L. L. VOELEHERT

AS an example of the application of
steam power to the propulsion of
a vehicle, the motorcycle shown in the
illustration is interesting. While it
does not embody the many refinements
of gasoline motorcycles manufactured
commercially, and makes no pretense
of competing with them, the machine
has a striking individuality. It was
made by a mechanic in his spare time,
with only the facilities of a small ma-
chine shop. Tests and hard usage over
typical roads have shown it to be easy
riding, partly by reason of its weight,
and to give very steady power. The
machine can be reversed quickly and
no clutch is used. It has a wheel base
of 75 in., and weighs about 350 pounds.
The upper portions of the frame are
made of 1-in. steel tubing, strongly
riveted at the fork and other joints.
The lower section, from the fork to the
rear axle, is made of a double bar of
1% by %-in. steel, spread and braced
to carry the tank, engine, and boiler.
The fork is forged from strips of steel,

other fittings, are of the ordinary
motorcycle type. The seat may be
moved and clamped at various places
along the upper bar of the frame, and
an extra seat may be installed, or a
bundle carrier may be fitted behind the
driver.

Gasoline, with which to heat water
for the generation of steam, is carried
in the long round tank, hung below the
frame at the top. The water supply is
contained in the square flat tank under
the lower part of the frame. The en-
gine is supported on the frame imme-
diately above the water tank, and
drives a shaft, which is geared to the
rear wheel by a chain and sprocket.

The round boiler, with gasoline
burners beneath it, is carried on the
lower part of the frame, which is
spread, immediately behind the front
wheel. The boiler is 16 in. in diameter
and 13 in. high. It is fitted with valves,
whistle, water gauge, and the usual fit-
tings of a boiler. The engine is of the
horizontal type, and the working parts

This Motorcycle is Propelled by a

Steam Plant and was Built in a

Small Shop by a Mechanic in His

Spare Time

and fitted to standard motorcycle are largely inclosed, so as to protect
wheels. The handlebars, seat, trans- them from dust and to avoid possible
mission chains and gears, as well as danger to the operator.

191

193

Sideboard Converted into Kitchenette

Living in rooms, in which it was nec-
essary to use the small living room as
a kitchen and dining room as well, the

An Old Sideboard was Converted into a Useful
Kitchenette, Which Economizes Space

Storage of the cooking equipment be-
came a problem. It was unsightly in
the room when not in use, and there
was no convenient place in which to
store it out of sight. The kitchenette,
shown in the sketch, was made from
an old sideboard, and served the pur-
pose admirably, being useful also for
other needs.

The top was removed and hinged to
one end, the supports being remov-
able, for storing them in the cabinet.
The hinged top provided a support for
the dishes while cooking. The partition
between the top drawers was removed
and the fronts of the drawers fastened
in place with screws. The space thus
made available was lined with asbestos,
and a small gas stove was fitted into it.
The gas line was connected to the
stove and two pieces of asbestos sheet-
ing were hinged to fold under the cover
and to be leaned against the wall as a
protection while cooking. The top
could be hinged at the back to protect
the wall, or cut in two and the parts
hinged one at each end of the cabinet.
The lower drawers of the kitchenette
were fitted to hold the cooking mate-
rials and equipment.

When the kitchenette is closed it is
useful as a stand or table, for dining,
or for other purposes, including iron-

ing. In the latter operation, it is often
desirable to have the hinged top open
to give free access around the end of
the top. — J. S, Hagans, Toledo, Ohio.

Bee Feeder for Winter Use

The use of a feeder, like that shown
in the sketch, makes the feeding of
bees in winter convenient. Sirup is
fed to the bees from inverted glass jars,
the openings of which are covered with
muslin, the jars being incased in a
packing of chafT in a wooden covering.
The wooden box is made to fit over
the hive, as shown in the sketch, and a
2-in. strip is nailed over the joint.

The device is made as follows : Use
wood smoothed on both sides ; pine,
basswood, or other soft wood being
satisfactory. Make two pieces, % in.
thick, and the same size as the top of
the hive. Into one of these cut two
round holes, as shown, to fit the necks
of the jars. Make two pieces, 6% in.
wide, for the sides, and two for the
ends, the length being suited to the
hive, the dimensions given in the
sketch being suggestive only. Make
four strips, 2 in. wide, and long enough
to fit the four sides of the box. Nail
the pieces of the box together, as
shown, nailing the sides over the end

GLASS JARS

HAY CHAFF

pieces, and the top over the frame of
sides and ends. Pack chafT into the
box, and, after filling the jars with
sirup and covering their openings with

193

muslin, pack the jars into the box so
that their openings will be level with
the bottom through which the holes
have been cut. Fasten the board, with
holes for the jars, into place with
screws, so that it may be removed
when it is desired to remove the jars
for refilling. Nail the 2-in. strips
around the lower edge of the box so
as to cover the joint between the box
and the hive. The feeder is then fitted
into place, the bees feeding from the
surface of the muslin. The chaff pre-
vents the sirup from congealing in cold
weather and so it is always available
for the bees. The use of this simple
device will prove economical and prac-
tical in keeping bees over the winter,
assuring them a good food supply, with
little effort on the part of the keeper. —
Gus Hansen, Peachland, B. C, Can.

opposite pillar when the gate is opened.
Any suitable height may be chosen for
the gate, but, for the purpose sug-

Kink for Driving Nails

Nails, or spikes, may be driven into
hard wood without causing them to
buckle by applying a coating of vase-
line, beeswax, and rosin, mixed in
equal portions. A convenient method
of applying the mixture is to bore a
hole in the end of the hammer handle
and fill it with the material. The nails
may be pressed into the hole to coat
them. — O. Root, Lorain, Ohio.

Porch Gate Folds into Hollow Pillar

The porch is a convenient play spot
for the children, but must be properly
safeguarded to prevent not uncommon
accidents and injury by falls. The fold-
ing gate shown in the sketch provides
a substantial barrier to the head of the
stairs, and may be quickly folded out
of the way. It is hardly noticeable
when set in the side of the pillar, and
does not mar the finish or general effect
of the latter.

The gate is made of strips of band
iron, although wood may be used. The
strips are fastened with bolts, or rivets,
and the forward end is fitted to the sec-
tion of the pillar, which forms the cover
for the recess in which the gate is
housed. The cover is hooked to the

The Gate is Folded When Not in Use and is
Concealed in the Hoilow Porch Pillar

gested, 24 to 30 in. is satisfactory. The
device may be adapted to a variety of
other uses by providing a box or cham-
ber for the collapsed gate, when no hol-
low recess is otherwise available.

A Homemade Book Holder

A piece of board and four finishing
nails furnished me with the necessary
materials to construct a book-holding
apparatus when in a hurry. Each nail,

Nails Driven in a Board and Bent in the Shape of
Screw Hooks to Hold a Book

being driven through the board, could
l)e turned to release, and pulled out
far enough to accommodate a thicker
book. In fact the device was adjust-
able.

194

The Enchanted Card Frame

A mystifying card trick, in which
the performer makes use of the en-
chanted card frame shown in detail in
the iUustration, is as follows: A pack
of playing cards is given to one of the
spectators, who selects a card, noting
the number and suit. The card is then
placed in an envelope and burned by
the spectator. The performer takes
the ashes and loads them into a pistol,
which he aims at a small frame, shown
as empty, and set upon a table a few
feet distant. The frame is covered
with a handkerchief, and the pistol is
fired at the frame. On removing the
handkerchief the selected and de-
stroyed card appears in the frame, from
which it is taken at the back.

The trick is performed as follows :
A forced deck is prepared having 24
like cards, and the backs of the cards
are held to the spectators when a card
is selected. The frame is made of a
molding 2 in. wide, mitered at the cor-
ners, and of the size indicated, the
opening being C% by lYo in. The gen-
eral views of the frame in normal posi-
tion and inverted are shown in Figs. 1
and 5. A pocket is cut in the lower
edge of the frame at the back, as shown

in detail in Fig. 2. A pane of glass is
fitted into the frame, and on the three
edges other than the one having a
pocket, strips of cardboard, Ys in. thick,
are glued, as a bearing for a second
piece of glass, as shown in Fig 4. The
back of the frame is fitted with a cover
of thin wood, and a hinged door is
arranged in the center of the back, as
shown in Fig. 3.

A mat of black cardboard is fitted
into the frame to form a background
behind the card. Fig. 1. The pocket at
the bottom is filled with black sand —
that used by sign painters is satisfac-
tory— and tfie frame is ready to receive
the card for the performance of the
trick. One of the cards from the forced
deck is placed in the frame. By in-
verting the latter the sand is caused to
run between the glass partitions, con-
cealing the card on the black mat be-
hind it. In this condition it is exhibited
to the spectators and then placed upon
the table. A handkerchief is thrown
over it. The pistol is one of the toy
variety and a cap is fired in it. In
picking up the frame the performer
turns it over, while removing the
handkerchief, so that the black sand
runs back into the pocket in the frame.
— Harry Marcelle, Honolulu, H. I.

CARDBOARD

N
?l8p -BLACK SAND^ .

SECTION THROUGH CENTER

A Pocket is Cut into the Frame, and Filled with Black Sand, Obscuring the Card When the Frame is Inverted

Portable Fence for Baby's Play Area

By L. N. ROBINSON

m the

a prac-

may

A CHILD in the "toddler" stage
should be provided with a safe
place in which to play without disturb-
ing the household routine of the busy
mother too frequently. The folding
wood-and-wire fence shown
illustration meets this need in
tical and inexpensive manner.
be used in the home or out of doors,
the fence being especially useful in the
latter case, since it protects the child,
and likewise the
lawn flowers,
which a young-
ster, unguarded,
may injure. The
fence is 25 to 32
in. high, strong
enough to support
a grown person
sitting on the
edge of it, and
incloses an area of
about 4 by 6 ft.
This is ample for
the child, and the
folded fence is
thus not too bulky
to be transported
easily. The mate-
rials cost less than
$3.50, including
hardware for the
making of the
fence, as shown in
the working draw-
ings. The wood
used for the main
frames is % by 2 in., and they are cov-
ered with wire mesh, the edges of which
are nailed under strips, on the outer
side of the frames. Care should be
taken to insure that none of the wire
strands is exposed, thus endangering

A Sate Play Space Either Indoors or Outdoors is
Provided for the Child, and the Fence may be Moved
Easily. The Construction Is Light yet Stable, and
can be Carried Out without Difficulty by the Home
Woodworker

the child, or the clothes of passers-by.
The frames are hinged together, as
shown in the plan, and fold into com-
pact form. Two long and four short
frames are required. Cut the top and
bottom rails of the long frames 6 ft. in
length, and those of the shorter frames
and the stiles 25 in. The corner joints
are cross-lapped by cutting away one-
half the thickness of each strip, as
shown at A. The joints at the top and
bottom of the cen-
ter stile, or verti-
cal piece, are
made as shown at
B, and the joints
at the crossing of
the center stiles
and the cross
braces, as at C.
The braces only
are notched to fit
the stile. Each of
the joints is fas-
tened with flat-
head screws,
countersunk. The
ends of the braces
are cut to fit flush
into the corners of
the frames, and
are nailed in place.
This provides a
flat nailing sur-
face for the wire
mesh and the
strips that cover
its edges.

Before putting on the wire mesh, all
the exposed corners should be "broken"
slightly with sandpaper, the wood
wiped smooth, and finished with a coat
of shellac. The wood may, of course,
be left unfinished. In fixing the 1-in.

195

196

wire mesh in place, fasten one end of
the piece squarely at the end of the
frame, nailing it with staples. Place a
strip of wood under each end of the

OPEN

f\x

yf\

IHINOE^

^INOE =

1//

v ~i~ PLAN

oin the Pieces with Well-Made Lap Joints, and
Hinge the Frames as Indicated

frame and bear down on the middle of
the frame, or weight it, to produce a
bowed effect. Then nail the other end

of the wire securely ; on removing the
strips, the wire will be drawn taut.
Tack the edges down, and repeat this
process on the other frames. Next
nail the covering strips on the front
faces of the frames, mitering them at
the corners, as shown at A.

The frames are then joined by means
of hinges, as shown in the plan at A.
Care should be taken that they are set
so that the corners of the fence meet
squarely and evenly when it is opened.
Metal drawbolts should be fastened
horizontally, one on the top of each
folding joint between the end sections.
These will prevent the child from fold-
ing the ends in, and possibly injuring
its fingers. The completed fence is
then given a final coat of shellac or var-
nish, the galvanized wire being left
unfinished.

The materials required for the fence
are as follows, the wood being listed in
lineal feet, and smoothed on four sides
to the dimensions indicated :

l.^»5 ft. Vz by 2-in. clear pine.
50 ft. H by 1-in. clear pine.

22 lineal ft. 1-in. mesh, 2-ft. wide wire fencing.
6 pairs IV^-in. iron plain butt hinges, with screws.
2 steel drawbolts, with screws.
% pt. white shellac.

Water Rheostat for Small Electrical
Devices

The rheostat shown in the illustra-
tion can be made quickly and at small
expense. The
base consists of
a piece of wood,
V-i by 3 by 13 in.
A glass tube, 1
in. in diameter
and 6 in. long, is
fastened to this
with strips of
sheet metal. A
large brass tack
is driven into a
cork, and the
cork is inserted
in the lower end
of the tube. A
wire runs from

paraffined to make it water-tight. A
brass or copper rod is placed through
the binding posts B and C. The resist-
ance can be changed by sliding the rod
up or down. The tube is nearly filled
with water having a small quantity of
salt dissolved in it. The amount will
depend upon the current to be reduced.
The rheostat should be fastened to a
wall, or other support, and may be used
to regulate the speed of small motors
and other electrical devices. — R. R.
Wayt, Pittsburgh, Pa.

'-^^sg^&Z

the brass tack to the binding post A.
The lower part of the tube should be

White Blotting Paper Improves Light
Reflectors

In the lecture and classrooms of a
large university it was found that re-
flections of the electric-light bulbs in
the glazed porcelain reflectors were
extremely annoying to the eyes of
students, and concentration of sight on
the blackboard was difficult. A num-

197

ber of tef ts were made, and the follow-
ing method proved successful, elimi-
nating the glare and the reflections.
Large sheets of white blotting paper
were cut to fit the inside of the re-
flectors, and then glued to their sur-
face. The soft, somewhat rough sur-
face of the blotting paper diffused the
light, so that the glare was overcome.
— C. M. Hall, St. Louis, Mo.

Two Simple Vises for the Home
Workbench

Boys, and other amateurs, sometimes
have need of a vise when a commercial
article or one of standard type cannot
be had readily. The devices shown in
the illustration will give good service
and can be made of material easily
obtained. The vise shown in Fig. 1
was made of old machine parts, con-
sisting of a bolt and a wing nut. The
bolt A was flattened at one end and
bent at a right angle. A hole to fit it
was bored through the top of the bench
B, and the washer C and wing nut D
were put in place. The piece to be
gripped is clamped under the end A.
This device should be fitted near the
end and front edge of the bench.

These Vises may be Made Easily of Materials
Available in Most Workshops

The vise shown in Fig. 2 grips the
block E in the same manner as the first
vise. The jaw F is bolted to a vertical
piece, G, which is fitted into a mortise
cut through the bench top. The wedge
H passes through a mortise in the
piece G and clamps against the lower
side of the bench top. — James E.
Noble, Toronto, Can.

Drinking-Glass Holders Easily Made

Several styles of holders for a drink-
ing glass are suggested in the illustra-
tion. They may be made of durable

o\ '

V7 ;- '

These Homemade Holders for Glasses Are Useful
and Quickly Constructed

materials easily obtained in the home
workshop. The first is made by twist-
ing a galvanized-iron or brass wire, as
shown, with an eye and a loop for fas-
tening it to the wall. A cork is fixed to
the upper end, on which to rest the
glass. The lower sketch shows a
holder of the cup type made by rivet-
ing a metal cup to a diamond-shaped
plate, the latter being fastened to the
wall. The holder at the right is made
from a piece of sheet metal cut to the
shape indicated below. It is bent to
the shape shown, and the lower end of
the narrow strip is curved upward to
provide a rest for the edge of the glass.
The upper portion of the holder should
be large enough so that the glass may
be raised sufficiently to fit into the rest.
The holes are provided for a fasten-
ing.— Frank L. flatter, Portland, Ore.

Emery Needle Cushion on Sewing
Machine

A convenient emery pad and needle
cushion may be made by inclosing the
powder in a long sack, about 1 in. in
diameter, and sewing it in place around
the arm of the machine. It will thus
be close at hand and needles and pins
may be stuck in the cushion, free from
rust, and will not be in the way.

, N Edward

THE possibilities for
practical use as
well as novelty for play
and experimental purposes make the
compensated aerial cableway, shown in
the illustrations, not only interesting
but also worthy of study. The arrange-
ment assembled in its simplest form
with two towers, in the page plate,
shows how the weight of the car is
compensated, so that a fairly level
course on the track cable is provided.
The various positions of the load and
cables, showing the application of the
compensating principle, are indicated
in Figs. 1 to o, and a multiple system
is shown in Fig. 6. The details of the
constructional parts are also shown.
The car may be driven by wind power,
as shown in Fig. 7, or by a motor, as
in Fig. 8, in addition to the simple
application of hand power suggested
in the page plate. Devices for auto-
matically reversing the course of the
cars both for the sail rigging and with
the use of electrical power, are shown
in Figs. 7 and 8. By their use it is
imnecessary to have an operator at
each end of the cableway. The con-
structional features were worked out
first by experiments on models in a
shop, and then applied to a large rig-
ging spanning over 100 ft. between the
A-frames. The sketch in the page
plate was made from photographs of
this construction. Application of the
compensating principle to carrying and
transportation problems affords oppor-
tunity for interesting engineering, in
spanning streams, cations, or gulleys.

In most types of cableways a con-
siderable sag is allowed in the cable
supporting the car in addition to that
caused by its own weight. Even in
systems of practically constant cable
tension, in which the wire is stretched
by enormous weights, the loaded car
causes a sag in the track cable, and
ascends and descends an incline when
approaching and leaving a tower. The
aim in the compensated cableway is
to overcome this sag as much as pos-

sw^MmII^J

sible, and to offer a mini-
mum of resistance to the
car in its course.
The simple form of compensated
cableway shown in the page plate is
made by setting up two A-frames, with
wire braces supporting them, and
mounting the track and traction cables
upon them. A light, flexible compen-
sating cable extends from one tower to
the other and is fitted to grooved pul-
ley wheels at the tops of the towers,
as shown in the detail at the right.
The ends of the cable are fixed to wire
hooks, from which the track cable is
suspended. The latter is anchored at
the ends of the wire braces supporting
the A-frames. In order to understand
the operation of the system it is desir-
able that the course of a load be traced
in its various stages, as indicated in
the diagrams. Figs. 1 to 5. For
diagrammatic purposes the load is
shown passing from the west slope to
the east. As the load passes under the
first A-frame, as in Fig. 2, the track
cable is drawn down at that point ;
the corresponding end of the compen-
sating cable is also drawn down, rais-
ing the opposite end of the track cable,
and taking out most of the sag in the
center portion of the track cable. As
the load passes to the center position,
as shown in Fig. 3, the track cable re-
sumes a more nearly horizontal posi-
tion. \\'hen the second A-frame is
reached the load draws the correspond-
ing end of the compensating cable
down with the track cable, Fig. 4, and
the latter assumes its normal position
as the load reaches the end of the
course. It is evident from the dia-
grams that the course of the load is
more nearly level than it would be
if the sagging of the track cable were
not counteracted.

For use with a multiple-frame sys-
tem, the cables are arranged in units
between supports, as shown in Fig. 6.
The compensating action is similar, the
tendency being to level the entire
course of the load. The weight of the

198

COMPENSATING CABLE

~T~

<_TRACK CABLE

ANCHdtt

•^^IT^'5?r"'!^r^^~-"^W-^. ^-

^"i"-.... '. hy^^^''Zr'^J£:,J,^':£:A^^•,

iE>6,.g/.t-^-, , <-^^J?^'7^'^:'^>l^

i\flS. -GROOVED
PULLEY
WHEELS

TRACTION
li],^ CABLE

•^ -N

This Interesting

Built by a Boy for Play and Experimental
Purposes : The Principle by Which the
Weight of the Car is Compensated in Single
and Multiple Systems is Indicated in the
Diagrams Above. Cars Propelled by Sail
Rigging or by a Small Battery Motor may
Also be Used

199

200

car and load only is compensated, and
since the weight of the cable will cause
a sag, the course cannot be level, but
may approach this condition.

A model of the compensated cable-

--GROOVED PULLEYS-,

The Car is Propelled by the Wind Acting on a Sail

Controlled Like the Main Sheet of a Sailboat in

Tacking. The Trigger Device Releases the Sail,

Reversing the Course of the Car

way, as shown in the page plate, or on
a smaller scale, may be made by a boy
of fair mechanical skill. For experi-
mental purposes the detail may, of
course, be refined to a high grade of
workmanship, if desired. The size and
dimensions of the parts need not be
proportioned precisely as shown, but
may depend more or less upon the
materials available. The track cable
should be made of galvanized-iron
wire, the compensating cable of fish-
line, and the towers of 1-in. stuflf, the
width of the pieces making up the A-
frames being increased in proportion to
the height. Grooved pulley wheels, set
in housings fixed to the top of the A-
frames, carry the compensating cable.
These may be made of wood, built up
in three sections, to provide a flange on
each side of the cable groove. The

A-frames should be joined strongly at
the top, and braced to anchors, sunk
into the ground as shown. The hooks
from which the track cable is sus-
pended are made of heavy wire, bent
so as not to interfere with the H-frame
hanger supporting the car, and looped
around the cable.

Various types of hangers may be
devised to house the two pulley wheels
which ride on the track cable. A
simple H-frame hanger is shown in the
detail sketch in the page plate. The
grooved pulley wheels are set on bolts,
and a heavy wire is bent and set
through the center block as a support
for the car. For experimental pur-
poses, or even for play, when it is not
desired to make a more elaborate car,
a wooden block or other object of suffi-
cient weight may be used as a load.
An interesting feature of the work,
especially for a boy, is to devise a
realistic coach model, as suggested in
the sketch. A wooden block forms the
base, and the roof and platforms are
made of sheet metal. The windows
and doors are painted on the metal.
The inventive boy may, of course,
build a car with a hollow metal or
wooden body, and weight it properly
to provide the necessary load.

The motive power is provided by
means of a cord, or traction cable, car-
ried around two large grooved pulleys,
mounted in supports fixed to the land-
ing stages at each end of the cable-
way. They are made of wood, a suit-
able groove being cut around the edge
with a saw, and smoothed with a small
round file, or sandpaper wrapped over
a round rod. The traction pulley is
turned by means of a crank, set on the
bolt which is used as an axle. The trac-
tion cable must be drawn sufficiently
taut to provide the necessary pressure
on the grooved pulleys, or it will slip.
Rosin applied to the pulleys and the
cable will tend to prevent this.

If the frames and other fittings have
been properly set up, the cableway will
support a sail car, shown in Fig. 7, or
a two-cell electric car, driven by a
small motor, as shown in Fig. 8. The
sailing-car arrangement is often fea-

201

sible, since a stiff breeze is common
in gorges, cafions, narrow valleys, or
even in ravines where such a cableway
might be set up. The hanger is an H-
frame having the grooved pulleys
bolted in it, and further reinforced by
small blocks at the ends. A braced
frame, supporting a deck on which a
mast is set, is suspended from the
hanger by four curved wires, as shown
in the side view. Fig. 7. A sail with
boom and gafif is supported by the
mast. It is arranged to be shifted
around the mast, which is accomplished
automatically at the end of a run, or
"tack," by means of the trigger device
shown in the top view. The sail is
controlled in relation to the wind much
as is the main sheet of a sailboat. The
car can be operated in this manner only
at right angles to the direction of the
wind, or nearly so. For play purposes,
a boy stationed at each end of the
cableway can shift the sail, but the
trigger device shown makes this un-
necessary. A rubber band is attached
to the boom, as indicated in the top
view, and a cord and wire are arranged
to engage a trigger. A stop for the
trigger is fixed to the A-frame so that
it is sprung when the car reaches the
end of the run. The rubber band re-
verses the sail, the car having been set
on the cable originally so that the for-
ward end is in proper relation to the
wind.

The electric car is especially inter-
esting in that it provides self-contained
motive power by means of a battery of
dry cells, and a motor belted to the
hanger, as shown in Fig. 8. The
hanger is of the H-frame type with
heavy blocks between the sidepieces
to provide for the small grooved
driving pulley set on the axle of one
of the larger pulleys. A wooden deck,
supported by four heavy wires set into
the center block of the hanger, carries
the motor, and the dry cells are fixed
under it. The motor is of the small
reversible battery type, and should be
provided with a reversing lever. This
will make it possil^le to reverse the car
when it reaches the end of its course.
The motor and cells should be disposed

so as to balance, tests being made for
this purpose before setting them in
place finally. A cord or small leather
belt connects the drive pulley of the
motor with the proper pulley on the

JSJ cnOOVED PULLEYS

TOWER
LEO,

REVERSIBLE
BATTERY
MOTOR -

DRY BATTERIES

The Electric Car Is Self- Contained and may be

Reversed Automatically, if the Motor Is of the

Reversible Type, by Contact of the Lever with the

Stop Fixed to the A- Frame

hanger. These pulleys should be in
line, and that on the hanger should be
five times the diameter of the one on
the motor shaft. The power is shut
ofif at the end of the course by a shut-
ofif switch which strikes a stop crank
attached to the A-frame. When the
reversing lever and stop are used, the
stop crank is unnecessary. A nonre-
versing motor can be made to drive the
car in a reverse direction by removing
the belt from the motor pulley and re-
placing it to make a figure-eight twist.

CWhen babbitt metal is heated some
of the tin and antimony in it is burned
out, making it unsuited for use in ma-
chinery bearings, and similar purposes,
after several heatings. The oxidation
of the metal is indicated by the forma-
tion of a scum on the surface.

-fi-T.

I h ?\T H I ? r/*i 1 o «Cx I TT? n r""' n

By EDWARD R. SMITH

AMONG the engines of war in action
. on land, probably none has cre-
ated greater interest than the now-
famous "fighting tank," which, accord-
ing to reports, pours out missiles of
destruction on the enemy from armored
turrets, and crawls over trenches, shell
craters, and similar obstructions, like a
fabled giant creature of prehistoric
ages. The tank described in this
article, while not as deadly as those on
the battle fields of Europe, performs
remarkable feats of hurdling trenches,
and crawling over obstructions, large
in proportion to its size. The model,
as shown in the heading sketches, is
full-armored, and has a striking re-
semblance to these war monsters. The
turret is mounted with a magazine gun,
which fires 20 projectiles automatic-
ally, as the tank makes its way over
the rough ground. The motive power
for the tractor bands is furnished by
linked rubber bands, stretched by a
winding drum and ratchet device, on
the rear axle, as shown in Fig. 1. When
the ratchet is released, the rear axle
drives the fluted wheels on it, and they
in turn drive the tractor bands, as
shown in the side elevation. Fig. 6.
The wire-wrapped flywheel conserves
the initial power of the rubber-band
motor, and makes its action more
nearly uniform.

The tank will run upward of 10 ft.
on the rubber-motor power, depending
on the size and number of the bands
used. The gun is fired by a spring
hammer, actuated by a rubber band.
The trigger device is shown in Fig. 1.
The pulley A is belted, with cord, to
the front axle. Four pins on its inner

side successively engage the wire trig-
ger, drawing it out of the gun breech
B, and permitting another shell to drop
into place. As the pulley revolves, the
trigger is released, firing the projectile.
This process goes on until the motor
runs down, or the supply of shells is
exhausted.

The tank is guided by the pilot
wheel, shown in Fig. 1. The sheet-
metal armor, with its turret, is fitted
over the mechanism, and can be re-
moved quickly. It bears on angles
bent up, as detailed in Fig. 2, to fit on
the ends of the wooden center cross-
piece of the main frame., and is held by
removable pins at the ends of this
frame. While the rubber motor is
easy to make and install, the range of
the tank can be increased by using a
strong spring motor, the construction
otherwise being similar.

The construction is best begun by
making the wooden frame which sup-
ports the armor. The perspective
sketch. Fig. 1, used in connection with
the working and detailed drawings,
will aid in making the latter clear.
Make the frame C, as detailed in Figs.
5 and 6, % by 1% by 11 in. long, with
an opening cut in the center, 1 in.
wide, 1 in. from the rear, and 1^4 in-
from the front end. Make the cross-
piece D % by 1% by 5% in. long; the
gun support E, as detailed in Fig. 4,
•''s by I'-jg by 6^4 in. long. Shape the
support E as shown. Fasten the frame
C and the crosspiece D with screws,
setting the piece D 5% in. from the
front, and its left end 3 in. from the
side of the frame, as shown in Fig. 5.
This is important, as the fitting of the

202

203

other parts depends on the position of
these wooden supports.

The drive-wheel axles are carried in
sheet-metal hangers. F. shown in Figs.
1 and 5, and detailed in Fig. 6. These
hangers also carry bearing wheels, G,
Fig. 1, which are held between the
hanger F and a metal angle, as detailed
at G, Fig. 6. These wheels are cut
from a broomstick, and mounted on
nail axles. The metal for the hangers
F is drilled as shown, and bent double
at the ends to make a strong bearing
i'or the drive-wheel axles. The upper

portion is bent at a right angle and fits
over the top surface at the end of the
crosspiece D, and is fastened to it with
small screws or nails. Cut the stock
for the hangers 2 by 6% in. long.

Next make the sheet-metal support
H. Fig. 1, for the flywheel, the rim of
which is wrapped with wire to give it
added weight. Cut the stock, as de-
tailed in Fig. fi, 1-54 by 4%^ in. long,
and notch it to form the spring
arrangement, which holds the flywheel
so that the belt will be tight. The
other sheet-metal support may then be

20-i

made also. Cut the stock for the front
support J, for the rubber motor, -iVs by
334 in. long, and shape it as shown in
the detail, Fig. 6. Make the support
K from a piece of sheet metal, in gen-
eral shape similar to that used for sup-
port H, the dimensions being made as
required, and no spring arrangement
being provided. Drill these metal fit-
tings, as indicated, for the points of
fastening, and mark the places for tlie
holes in which shafts or axles run very
carefully.

The driving mechanism can then be
made, as shown in Fig. 1, and detailed
in Figs. 5 and 6. The driving shafts
and their parts, as well as the pulleys,
can be turned in a lathe, or made from
spools, round rods, etc. Make the front
axle L, and wheels, joined solidly, 5%
in. over all, the grooved wheels being
% in. thick, and I'^e i"- in diameter.
Wires are used as bearings for shafts
for the driving axles. If the rear axle
is turned in a lathe, it is cut down to
the shape indicated, thinner at the
middle, to provide a place for the cord
connected to the rubber motor. The
grooved pulley and the fluted drive
wheel at the winding-key end, shown
in Fig. 5, are then cut loose ; the drive
wheel on the other end is cut loose,
forming three sections, mounted on the
wire axle, one end of which is the wind-
ing key. Ratchet wheels, M, are fitted
between the ends of the center section
and the adjoining pieces, the ratchet
wheels being nailed to the center sec-
tion and soldered to the wire axle.
Pawls, U, are fitted to the inside of
the two end sections, as indicated in
iFig. 1 and in Fig. 5. When the rubber
motor is wound up on the drum, the
tractor bands are gripped until it is
desired to start the tank on its trip.
Then the power is communicated from
the drum, or center section of the axle,
to the drive wheels by means of the
ratchet wheels, acting on the pawls.

Mount the hangers F on the center
crosspiece D, fitting the axles of the
drive wheels into place. Make the
weighted flywheel, and mount it on its
shaft, as shown, lining it up with the
pulley on the rear drive shaft. Fit the

supports J and K into place, setting
spools for the rubber-motor cord in
place, on wire axles. Arrange the belt
from the flywheel to the drive shaft,
and connect the rubber bands for the
rubber motor as shown. Fasten one
end in the hook of support J, and pass
the winding cord through the spools,
and fix it to the drive shaft. The de-
vice can then be operated with the
fluted drive wheels, bearing on strips
of wood for tracks.

The tractor bands N are fitted over
the drive wheels, as shown in Fig. 6.
They are built up of canvas strips, on
which wooden shoes are glued and
sewed, as detailed in Fig. 5. The
stitches which reinforce the gluing are
taken in the order indicated by the
numerals. The pilot wheel is 2 in. in
diameter, and sharpened at its circum-
ference. Make a metal shell, O, for it,
as detailed in Fig. 6. Solder the shell
to the double wire, which supports the
wheel and gives it a spring tension to
take obstructions nicely. The wire is
fastened to the crosspiece D, as shown
in Fig. 5.

The gun and its mechanism can be
made handily before the support E is
fixed into place at the front of the
crosspiece D. Shape the magazine P
from sheet metal, making it 2% in.
high, as detailed in Fig. 4. Make the
gun Q from a piece of sheet metal, as
detailed, cutting the metal to the exact
dimensions indicated. Mount the mag-
azine and the gun, and arrange the wire
hammer R, and the rubber band that
holds it. Fit the pulley A into place
on its axle, supported by a small block
of wood. Belt it to the front drive-
wheel axle, as shown in Fig. 5, after
the gun support is fastened into place
with screws. Make the projectiles of
wood, as shown, and the fighting tank
is ready to be tested before putting on
the armor.

The armor is made of one deck piece,
S, Fig. 3, into which the covered tur-
ret is set, and two side pieces T, as
detailed in Fig. 2. Make one left and
one right sidepiece, allowing for the
flanges all around, to be bent over and
used for riveting or soldering the

205

4^p.iB

TRACTOR
BAND

Plan and Side Elevation o£ the Interior Mechanism, with the Armor Removed, and petails of the Metal
Fittings, the Ratchets, and the Tractor Bands

armor together. The bottom extension
on the sidepieces is bent double to form
an angle, on which the armor is sup-
ported, where it rests on the top of the
hangers F. The turret is fitted to the
deck by cutting notches along its lower
edge, the resulting strips being alter-
nately turned in and out along the
point of joining, as shown in Fig. 3.
When the armor is completed, it is
fitted over the main frame, the gun

projecting from the turret. Small pins
hold the ends of the armor solid against
the ends of the main frame C, so that
the armor can be lifted off readily. The
various parts of the fighting tank can
be painted as desired, care being taken
not to injure the points of bearing, on
the axles and pulleys, which should be
oiled. Silver bronze is a good finish
for the exterior of the armor, which
may be decorated with a coat of arms.

206

A Neat and Economical Baby Crib
Made from a Clothes Basket

A clothes basket on a simple but
strong wooden frame, mounted on
castors, m.akes a cradle which is as con-

CCOTHES BASKET
I6'X30"XI2'

OETAIU

A Few Sticks of Wood and a Clothes Basket Make
a Convenient Cradle for the Baby

venient and sanitary as many which
are sold for hve times its cost. It is
light enough to roll out on the porch
.without difficulty, and may be padded
and fitted with pillows until the most
exacting mother is satisfied. The bas-
ket and frame should be painted, pref-
erably some light color. The whole
cost, not including pads or pillows,
should not be over $2.50. — A. Switzer,
Denver, Colo.

A Small Rheostat for Experiments
and Testing

A rheostat made as shown in the
sketch has been used successfully for

.calibrating a large number of ammeters
and wattmeters. One of the general
designs suggested will be useful for

.many other purposes. The dimensions
given were used for obtaining a varia-
tion of from 14 to 5 amperes with a
6-volt source of electromotive force.
For other capacities the proportions

■ may be increased or decreased propor-
tionately. A piece of pine, 7 by 9^.2

in., forms the base. For resistance
wire No. 16 gauge "Climax" was used,
but wire of any material which will
carry the maximum current without
excessive oxidation may be employed
instead. Nails support the resistance
wire, which should be soldered to the
nails to insure good electrical contact.
Leads of flexible cord are arranged as
shown. These are soldered to the first
and last nails in the series. To provide
connection between the free ends of
the cord and the resistance wire or the
nails, 5-ampere test clips are soldered
to the cord ends. The teeth of the clip
jaws are filed oflF, and in their stead
a short piece of brass wire is soldered
to each jaw, as indicated in the detailed
view. A nick is filed in each of the
brass wires so that they will hold firm-
ly onto the resistance wire or nail.
Suspender or display-case clips, suit-
ably modified, may be substituted for
the commercial test clips.

In using the device, one clip is moved
along the front span. The other is
gripped to a nail in the rear row. Slid-
ing the front clip along the span wire
insures a fine adjustment of resistance.
Gripping the rear clip on the different

WIRE SOLDERED
TO NAILS

(

'■ BRASS WIRES SOLDERED

TO JA\A/S OF TEST CLIP

This Homemade Rheostat Has a Capacity of One-
Half to Five Amperes, on a Six-Volt Circuit

nails provides the coarse adjustment.
— R. F. Binney, La Vina, Calif.

CGlue applied to door-knob screws
will prevent them from loosening eas-
ily, yet they may be removed with-
out difficulty.

207

Roll -Paper Feed for Typewriter

Typewriter paper may be fed from a
roll where only one copy is necessary
and where maximum speed of produc-
tion is essential. Sections, not to ex-
ceed about 11 in. in length, of the typed
paper are torn off as necessary. This
practice is followed often in newspaper
offices. The roll paper can be pur-
chased at any paper-supply house, cut to
the width required b\' the user. The
construction of a roll-feed attachment
which may be mounted on any of the
standard typewriters will be described.

First make the two uprights. Both
are cut from -J/ie-in. sheet brass, as
shown. After cutting, heat the pieces
to anneal them before bending. A
hole is provided for the paper-roll rod
in the right-hand upright and a slot in
the left-hand one. A rod, threaded on
one end and equipped with two nuts,
constitutes the paper holder. For
a guide plate and cutter, cut a piece of
sheet brass, 1^^ in. wide and of a length
equal to that of the carriage, as detailed
in the drawing. Bend it as shown. A
Yg-in. slot is cut almost the entire
length of the guide.

In mounting the holder on the type-
writer, the uprights are drilled at the
base to engage the two small screws at
the side of the carriage back of the
roller. The exact location of these
holes will vary in machines of the dif-
ferent makes. Next, the uprights are
clamped into place with the screws.

one at each end of the carriage. Then
determine the distance between the
arms of the uprights, drill a corre-

PAPER BOLL

ROD TO HOLD PAPER ROLL
i'SLOT

GUIDE AND CUTTER

A Paper-Roll Holder for Typewriters That can be
Attached to Any Standard Machine

sponding hole at each end of the guide-
and-cutter plate, and fasten the plate
to the uprights with small stove bolts.
The roll of paper is placed on the rod
and fed between the machine platen
and roller as with single sheets. When
the article or memorandum being writ-
ten is finished, the paper is held against
the guide plate and the blade of a
pocketknife inserted in the slot. Pass-
ing the blade the length of the slot cuts
off the paper, or it may be torn oft' at
the slot. The end of the paper roll is
again fed into the machine, ready for
another operation.

Handy Paring Knife Made
from Old Hacksaw Blade

With a little work a hacksaw blade,
or a portion of one, can be made into a
paring knife that will prove very
durable because of the' excellent qual-
ity of the steel. Two pieces of hard
wood should be cut into the shapes
shown and riveted together with one
end of the blade between them. After
fitting a paper mold about the end of
the handle from which the steel pro-
jects, melted lead is poured into it, to
form a collar that will hold the parts

firmly together. The exposed part of
the saw can then be ground as desired.

-KNIFE BLADE

■ LEAD
- PAPER MOLD

HACKSAW/
BLADE

DETAIL OF HANDLE

KNIFE COMPLETED

A Serviceable Paring Knife Made from a Piece of

Hacksaw Blade, and Details of Its Construction:

The Handle and Blade are Held Together with a

Rivet and a Lead Ferrule

308

Washing Machine Equipped
with Churn Attachment

The owner of a power-driven family
washing machine has provided an at-
tachment for it with which he churns

Without Impairing the Usefulness of This Washing

Machine a Plunger has been Attached to the Flywheel

Which Does the Work of a Churn, a Jar for the

Cream being Installed as Shown

cream at a little additional expenditure
of energy. A wooden plunger was
bolted to the outside of the flywheel
and its upper end placed between two
rollers set in a metal frame attached
to the side of the tub. Enough play
was allowed between the rollers to per-
mit the plunger to move up and down
freely. A framework large enough to
hold a glass fruit jar was attached to
the side of the plunger, a thumbscrew
being provided in its upper end with
which the jar is held firmly in place.
As the flywheel revolves, the movement
of the plunger thoroughly agitates the
contents of the jar. — Dale R. \^an
Horn, North Loup, Neb.

Treating Closets with Cedar Oil

Apropos of the article in a recent
issue of Popular Mechanics Magazine
entitled "A Cedar-Lined Oak Chest."
readers who desire the advantages of
a cedar-lined box or closet may accom-
plish it by the use of cedar oil. Paint-
ing the interior of a box with this oil
will to all intents and purposes con-
vert it into a cedar chest regardless of
the kind of wood used. The cost of

the oil is not great. A closet treated
in the same manner will likewise keep
out insects. — Robert E. M. Bain, St.
Louis, Mo.

Barnyard Gate is Operated
with the Foot

A gate which can be unlatched with
the foot has proven a great conven-
ience across a path on a farm where
laborers frequently pass with both
hands occupied carrying pails. Pivoted
to the side of the gate, near its center,
a beam, or foot lever, is hung in a ver-
tical position, extending almost to the
ground and having a shelf bracket fas-
tened to its upper end. The horizontal
arm of the bracket passes beneath a
porcelain knob projecting from a piv-
oted bar that engages the elbow catch.
By pushing the vertical beam to one
side with the foot the bar is raised
above the catch, allowing the gate to
swing open. If the gate is properly
hung it will close of itself, the elbow
catch serving to prevent its being
opened again, except when the bar is

This Gate is Unlatched by Operating the Foot Lever
as Indicated. It Is a Special Convenience When One
has Both Hands Occupied Carrying Pails or Bundles

raised. — T. C. McDowell, Adrian,
Michigan.

Improvised Post -Card Projector and Enlarging Camera

By harry MARCELLE

AN outfit which may be used for
either projecting picture post
cards or enlarging photographic nega-
tives was assembled as delineated in
the illustration. An ordinary camera,
which provides the lens and bellows,
is required, in combination with a dark-
box which can be built in the home
workshop. The method of construction
is this:

Make a box about 8 in. square out of
^/■o-in. planed soft-wood stock. Nail
the sides, but omit, for the present,
the top and the bottom. The two
openings thus left will be called the
front and the back. Mount an 8 by
8 by i/2-in. board, D, which con-
stitutes a door, on the back with
hinges and provide a hook to hold it
shut. Cut a square hole, of the same
size as that of the opening in the back
of the camera which is to be used, in
another 8 by 8-in. piece, E. This
will constitute the front board. This
front board is so cut that it fits in
between the sides of the box instead
of on the ends, as does the back. In
the top, cut a square hole for ventila-
tion. A hood is provided over this
hole to prevent light being thrown
forward.

When using the arrangement as a
projector or magic lantern two 40-
watt tungsten lamps, A. are required.
Each lamp is mounted in a porcelain
receptacle held on the floor with
screws. A lamp cord, one end con-
necting the two lamps in multiple and
the other fitted with an attachment
plug, passes through a hole in the floor
of the box. Form the two reflectors,
B, of 8 by 7-in. bright tinned sheet-
iron pieces, each having holes along
one of its edges to admit of attach-
ment. The reflectors are bent to a
semicircular contour before mounting.
The card holder is detailed at C. It is
a piece of tinned sheet iron bent to
the form shown so that it will hold a
post card. A hole is drilled in its cen-
ter for a screw pivot. It can then be
fastened to the center of the back door
and can be turned into position for
cither horizontal or vertical pictures.

A washer is inserted on the screw be-
tween the holder and the door. The
thickness of the camera body having
been determined, a slide is fastened to

^PENfNG IN TOP FOB VENTILATION

SIDE VIEW '^INSIDE PAINTED

BLACK

An Ordinary Small Camera, Fitted with This Attach-
ment. Becomes an Enlarging and Post-Card
Projecting Camera

the front board, as diagrammed, to
support this body.

Before it can be used as a projector
it must be adjusted to operate with the
camera of the type and size available.
The adjustment, which must be made
in a darkened room, having on one of
its walls a white screen on which the
image will be projected, is effected
thus : Remove the back from the cam-
era and place the camera in the slide
without extending the bellows. Open
the shutter. Insert a card in the holder
C. Light the tungsten lamps. Now
move the front board, with the camera
carried on it, back and forth within the
box until the components are in focus,
that is, until the most distinct image
obtainable is reproduced on the screen.
Then, illuminate the previously dark-
ened room and nail the front board in
the position thus determined. These
adjustments having been made, paint
the box, inside and out, a coat of dead
black. Everything should be painted
black except the reflecting surfaces of
the tin reflectors and the incandescent-
lamp bulbs. The front board having
been fastened, subsequent focusing can
be effected by shifting longitudinally

209

210

the lens board of the camera. The
image of any sort of a picture that will
fit in the holder can be reproduced.
Colored post cards will project in their
natural tints.

To make enlargements with the same
box, a few minor changes are neces-
sary. When employed for enlarge-
ments the tungsten lamps, which are
required for projection, are not used.
They may, however, remain in the box
and can be disconnected from circuit
by unscrewing them a few turns. The
negative, or film, which is to be en-
larged, is held in the opening E. Where
a film is to be reproduced, it is held
between two pieces of glass which are
fastened to the inside of the front board
with small clips. If a glass negative is
used, the two additional glass plates

are unnecessary. If the negative does
not fill the opening in the camera, a
mask cut from heavy black paper will
be required to cut off the light.

The light for the enlargement is fur-
nished by another tungsten lamp
mounted in a porcelain receptacle
which is screwed to a board which con-
stitutes a base. This light source is
moved about in the house until it is
directly Ijack of the opening E in the
front of the box and vmtil the light is
distributed equally over the entire neg-
■ative. To focus, move the camera back-
ward or forward. While focusing, use
a yellow glass, or ray screen, to cover
the lens. W'hen focusing has been com-
pleted, the shutter is closed and the ray
screen removed. Then stop down the
lens to bring out detail, and expose.

Changing a Motor-Car Tire
without a Jack

It occasionally happens that a motor-
ist fails to have a jack at hand when a
^_^ tire needs to be
T^^ changed on the
road. The situa-
tion is easily met
with the aid of a
strong board and
a couple o f
blocks or rocks.
Driving the de-
sired wheel onto
the incline, pro-
vided in the
manner illustrat-
ed, and setting the brakes, a block is
placed beneath the axle. The board
is then knocked out of the wa}'. — John
Peters, Milwaukee, Wis.

Economical Use of Wood Alcohol
in Small Cooking Stove

A couple eating breakfast and supper
in their room used a chafing dish for
cooking. A hard alcohol was used for
fuel, and the expense seemed too high.
So a fuel can was filled with pulverized
asbestos pipe covering, and then sat-
urated with wood alcohol. A quart of
alcohol lasted about a month. — Charles
A. King, Plymouth, N. H.

Roller Truck for Use
in Scrubbing

A little padded platform on wheels
takes most of the drudgery away from
scrubbing in hotels and office build-
ings. The platform carries the pail as
well as the scrubber, and enables the
scrubber to keep dry. — Florence L.
Clark, McGregor, la.

Attractive Table Stands
for Hot Dishes

Attractive stands which will pre-
serve the dining table from injuries, or
heat marks made by hot dishes, can
be easily made from thin pieces of
board cut oblong or oval. After the
board has been
cut the proper
size, cleats are
fastened to the
underside t o
which billiard-
cue tips are at-
tached to serve as supports. The stand
should be varnished and waxed to
match the table. — George L. Furse, St
Louis, Mo.

211

Cord Used as Spacer
for Curtain Rings

To make the curtain rings space
automatically along the curtain pole,
tie a cord from one ring to the next,
spacing the rings uniformly. Or the
cord may be attached at uniform dis-
tances to the curtain. A pull at the
edge of the curtain will space the rings
evenly every time. — Frank L. Matter,
Portland, Ore.

Device for Packing Earth
in Transplanting

When tomato or cabbage plants are
to be set out in considerable num-
bers, the simple

implement
shown here
makes stooping
over to press the
dirt about the
plants unneces-
sary. After a
row of plants
has been set in
dibble holes and
watered, the soil
can be packed
about their roots
quickly while
one is standing
upright. The
jaws of the de-
vice are actviated

by means of the hinged lever. — A. S.

Thomas, Amherstburg, Out.

Cleat and Pulley Fastenings
to Adjust Clothesline

The following kink will relieve the
housewife of the trouble of sagging
clotheslines, and hubby of constantly
being asked to tighten up the line. The
cost should not be over 25 cents, as all
that is needed is a pulley cleat and
hook, all of which may be had at any
ten-cent store. When the line gets
slack, it is pulled tight through the
pulley and tightened up in the cleat. —
S. H. Johnson, Westville, Conn.

Convenient Type of Mail Box
for Home Use

A person having a mail box set flush
in the outside wall of hishome can, with
a little alteration, make it accessible

OUTSIDE OF WALL

GLASS DOOR

INSIDE OF ROOM

The Mail Box is Lengthened So That It Reaches
through the Wall to the Inside, Where a Door is
Placed through Which the Mail can be Removed

from inside the house. After removing
the back side of the box a tin extension
should be soldered to the box giving it
sufficient length to reach through the
wall in which an opening of the proper
size has been cut. The enlarged con-
tainer is completed by adding a glass
door to the inner end which enables
one to ascertain its contents at a
srlance. — A. Pertle, Chicago, Ills.

Block Plane Converted for Use
on Circular Work

Few amateur craftsmen can afiford
to own a circular plane, yet this tool is
decidedly neces-
sary for such
round work as
table tops, half-
round shelves,
segments, and
the like. Any
ordinary block
plane will ac-
complish such
work if equipped
as illustrated. A piece of half-round
hard wood is cut the width of the plane
and attached with countersunk ma-
chine screws, as indicated. The block
elevates the rear end of the jjlane, cau.s-
ing it to follow the curve of the work
on which it is used.

HADD-
WOOD
BLOCK

213

Pressure Spray Made of Old Oilcan

In making a spraying outfit for gar-
den use, or similar purposes, a 3 or 5-
gal. kerosene can and tire pump may be

Ila^»^°^Va^ ^3' bolts j-HANOLE

f ^=*\ |{'x| IRON STRAP

OtTAILATA U 12" -^ >^ , BALL CHECK VAiyE

Old Material Makes a Spray That Is as Good as the
Manufactured Product, at Less Cost

satisfactorily employed. The latter is
attached rigidly at the rear of the con-
tainer with iron straps, as shown. A
ball check valve is fitted in the top of
the receptacle and connection is made
between it and the pump with the
pump hose. A 6-ft. length of i/4-in-
rubber tubing is wired to the drain
cock. An 8-in. piece of ^/4-in. brass pipe
is filed down and wired in the spray
end of the hose to serve as a nozzle. —
P. P. Avery, Garfield, N. J.

Keeping Tools Bright and
Free from Rust

Bright-finished tools can be pre-
served against rust by coating with
linseed oil, and allowing the oil to dry
as a film. If more body is desired, ox-
ide of iron, very finely powdered,
should be mixed with the oil. An-
other antirust coating is made by dis-
solving !{; oz. camphor in 1 lb. melted
lard. The mixture is skimmed, and
fine graphite added to make an iron
color. Clean the tools and smear with
this mixture. Let the tools stand 24
hours, and rub clean with soft cloth.

A good method of removing rust is
to cover the metal parts with sweet
oil, rubbing it in well. Let stand 48

hours ; then rub with finely powdered,
unslaked lime. Next immerse the ar-
ticle for a few seconds in a solution of
1/4 oz. potassium cyanide in a wine
glass of water. Then clean with a
paste of potassium cyanide, castile soap,
whiting, and water, using a toothbrush.
Potassium cyanide is a strong poison,
and should be used carefully. — E.
Standiford, YoungStown, Ohio.

Repairing Leaks in Pipes

Frequently a cast or malleable-iron
pipe fitting will leak through its side,
the water oozing, drop by drop, from
a pinhole — ordinarily due to a sand
hole in the casting. Sometimes the
leak can be stopped by hammering the
affected spot with the ball end of a
hammer. If this fails, it is necessary
to replace the fitting. Where the leak
is around a thread, screwing the pipe
or fitting tighter constitutes the only,
and usually effective, corrective. — L.
A. Merton,' St. Louis, Mo.

Corn Popper Made from Coffee Can
and Broom Handle

With an old coffee can, or similar
tin receptacle, and a piece of a broom
handle, 21/0 or 3 ft. long, it is easy
to make a corn popper that is prefer-
able in many ways to a wire one. Take
a strip of wood a little shorter than the
height of the can to be used, and after
boring two holes in it to prevent its
splitting, nail it to the end of the han-
dle. The latter is then fastened to
the side of the can with two wire sta-
ples, as shown. Holes are made in

.-HOLES IN LID

BLOCK OF >«OOD
NAILS

^TIN CAN

PIECE OF BROOM HANDLE^

A Corn Popper Made from a Coffee Can, or Similar
Tin Receptacle, and a Piece of a Broom Handle

the can top to admit air to the corn
while it is popping. — James Crouse,
Dixon, Ky.

An Easily Constructed Ball -Bearing Anemometer

By THOMAS A. REYNOLDS

AN anemometer is an instrument
which measures the velocity of the
wind. The anemometers used by the
weather bureau consist of four hemi-
spherical cups mounted on the ends
of two horizontal rods which cross at
right angles and are supported on a
freely turning vertical axle. Since the
concave sides of the cups offer more
resistance to the wind than do the con-
vex sides the device is caused to re-
volve at a speed which is proportional,
approximately, to that of the wind.
The axle, to which the rotary motion is
transmitted from the cups, is connected
to a dial mounted at the foot of the
supporting column. This dial records
automatically the rotations. The re-
jiroduction of such a registering mech-
anism would be rather complicated.
Hence, in the arrangement to be de-
scribed none will be employed. There-
fore, one of these improvised anemom-
eters, when mounted on a high build-
ing, will indicate by the changing
rapidity of its revolutions only the
comparative, not the real, velocity of
the wind.

In constructing the instrument,
straight, dished vanes will be used in-
stead of hollow cups. The vanes op-
erate almost as effectively and may be
combined more readily into a sturdy
rotating unit. A bicycle front hub is
utilized to constitute a wear and noise-
proof bearing having minimum fric-
tion. Each of the four wings is formed
from a piece of galvanized iron, meas-
uring -iio by 10 in., which has one end
cut to a curve as shown. To each wing
is fastened, with tinners' rivets, a 4-in.
length of % by /ic-in. strap iron. Form
each of the strips into a trough-shaped
vane, measuring S^/i in. from edge to
edge — this being the distance between
the spoke flanges of a bicycle hub. Some
cylindrical object of suitable diameter
will serve as a form for bending. Place
the ends of the support strips between
the spoke flanges and rivet them secure-
ly. The rivets pass through the spoke
holes. Some trying out may be re-
quired to insure a synmietrical ar-

rangement of the parts. Solder the
curved end of each wing to the inner
surface of the adjacent wing. Place

SOLDERED JOirJT

This Anemometer is Made from Galvanized Sheet
Iron, a Bicycle Hub. and a Few Iron Straps. Prac-
tice in Observing Its Motion will Enable One to
Estimate Fairly Closely the Wind's Velocity

a tin cap — a salve-box lid will do — un-
der the upper locknut on the hub to
exclude rain from the bearing.

The supporting upright may be a
heavy wooden rod, or a piece of iron
pipe. A yoke of 1 by %-in. strap iron,
held to the top of the upright with
screws, is provided for the attachment
of the hub. The locknut on the hub
clamps it to the yoke. Apply a coat
of metal paint to the iron parts which
are exposed. Mount the device suffi-
ciently high to give the wind free ac-
cess to it from all directions. The
curve at one end of each wing is an ir-
regular one. Hence, its accurate con-
struction involves a knowledge of
sheet-metal pattern drawing. How-
ever, if it is made of a form similar to
that shown it will fit sufficiently well
to permit a good soldered joint.

(TBoards exposed to the weather
should be laid with the heart side
down, as determined by examining the
end grain.

213

Sharpened Poles, Two Feet
Long, are Used with This
Pile Driver in Building
Foundations, Wharves, and
Other Structures of Piling.
The Details of the Head-
block and the Nipper
Device are Showa in Figs.
2 and 3

214

By EDWARD A. KRUEGER

[These directions will enable boys of vary-
ing skill with tools to make a pile driver, as a
toy or model. Several simple methods of mak-
ing the parts in the home workshop, with
materials easily obtainable, are suggested. —
Editor.l

THE construction of small docks,
wharves, piers, and foundations
for bridges, buildings, and other struc-
tures, by the driving of piling is in-
teresting out-of-door play, in which
boys will find much fun. A pile driver
for this work is shown in the page
plate, Fig. 1. The hammer is raised
by means of a winch, and is dropped
automatically when it reaches the cap
of the derrick, as indicated in Fig. 3.
The drum is then released, and the
weighted double-hook nipper drops
down, picking up the hammer on the
next upstroke. A single-hook nipper,
that can be made easily of wire, is also
shown in the detail sketch. Fig. (5. The
small bo}^ who cannot make the nip-
pers or the winch, may tie the rope di-
rectly to the hammer, drawing it up by
hand, and dropping it as desired. The
hammer need not be fitted to the
guides, but merely arranged to drop
between them, and the derrick can be
made of only a few main pieces. The
larger parts of the hammer and nipper
weight are best made of lead, babbitt,
or white metal, as these may be cut or
melted readily. Iron, brass, or cop-
per, solid or in plates, may be used, if
means for shaping them are at hand.

The making of the derrick may be
undertaken first. Make two pieces for
the bed A, % by % by 17 in.; two
hammer guides B, % by % by 33%
in. ; one bed piece, C, % by % by 20
in. ; two bed pieces, D, % by Ys by
514 in. ; two posts, E, % by 1/0 by
3414 in. ; two braces, F, % by % by
261/2 in. Cut these pieces slightly
over their finished lengths as given,
allowing for trimming and fitting.
Make strips, I/4 by V2 in., for the brac-
ing on the sides of the derrick and the
ladder bracing on the back.

<^^r

Notch the lower ends of guides B,
% by %, and the lower ends of posts
E, on an angle, Vg in. deep, to fit pieces
A. Join the parts of the bed, as shown
in the page ])late, pieces A being set
314 in. apart, fastening them with bolts
or screws. Make braces G. of sheet
metal, and bolt them in place. Fit the
posts E into place, and fasten them at
the bed and the top. Put on several
ladder braces temporarily, to steady
the frame. Fit the braces F care-
fully, and bolt them in place. Remove
the piece C and the braces F, and nail
the horizontal bracing to the sides of
the frame. Then fit and nail the di-
agonal braces. The bolted construc-
tion is convenient in "knocking down"
the derrick for storing it. Reassemble
the parts, and make the cap for the
headblock.

The headblock and cap are shown in
detail in Figs. 3 and 3. Make two
pieces, H, I/4 by l^'ie by 1% in. ; one
piece, J, 1/4 bv 1 by l^o in. ; two braces,
K, 1/4 by 11 %o by 1% in. Make the
two beveled pieces of the cap % by
1-^4 by 11^ in., and provide a wooden
strip or metal plate for the front and
rear edges, as shown. Fasten strips
of sheet metal ^to the bevel of the
notch, to protect it from wear by the
striking of the nipper hooks. Make
the sheave 1% in. in diameter and %
in. thick, with a groove for the rope.
Assemble the parts, as shown.

The details of the winch are shown
in Figs. 4 and 5, and the method of
assembling the parts, in Fig. 1. The

215

216

drum may also be driven without
gears by fixing the crank directly to
the shaft. Gears may be obtained

SUPPORT L

SUPPORT M

The Supports of the Winch are Made of 3,^ -Inch
Wood, Bolted to the Bed

from old machines, or purchased from
dealers in model supplies. Make the
supports L and M, Fig. 4, % by 4 by
G% in., cutting patterns of paper, if
desired.

The gear. Fig. 5, is 31/2 and the pin-
ion 34 in. in diameter. The drum is
of wood, 2 in. in diameter and S-^io
in. long. Its ends are 3i,4-in. metal
disks, fastened with screws. The shaft
is a %-in. bolt, S'vg in. long, and bears
in holes bored in the supports, as
shown in the details of these parts.
The crank N, Fig. 5, is made of a ^10-
in. rod, bent as shown, and fitted with
a washer to fit next to the pinion. The
gear is set by means of the pawl O,
which is bent from a strip of yic.-in-
sheet metal. The brace P is bent from
a Vie by % by 1%-in. strip of sheet
metal, and riveted to the pawl. As-
semble the parts, fastening the gear to

Two DISKS

CRAWK N -i.

Q-l-^-

3"_

PAWL O

BRACE P
F.cS"

Details of the Drum, Its Driving Mechanism,
and Fittings

the drum end, and bolt the supports
into place. Put the pinion into mesh

with the gear at its proper place, and
carefully mark the hole for the crank.
Square the end of the crank and the
hole in the pinion, and fit them to a
driving fit. Fix the rope to the drum,
and reeve it through the head block.
The derrick is then ready for the ham-
mer and the weighted nipper.

The hammer, shown in Fig. 6, may
be made easilv from a solid block of
lead, 114 by 2% by 25/8 in. Cut Vie
by Vs-in- grooves in the vertical edges
to fit the guides. Make the circular
%6 by ]%-in. hammer plate Q of iron
or brass, and fasten it with screws.

DETAIL OF HAMMER HOOK

Tic 6

A Simple Method of Making the Tripping Device,
and Details of the Hammer

Rivet the wire lifting strap R, as
shown.

The single-hook nipper, shown in
Fig. 6, is made as follows: Flatten a
piece of /io-in. wire at the middle, and
drill a %2-in. hole for the bolt. Shape
the lower end into a pointed hook, and
bend the upper end to form the trip
arm. This strikes the notch in the
cap of the derrick, releasing the ham-
mer. The rope is wired to the hook
as shown. The nipper weight is made
of a solid piece of lead, I14 by 2% in.,
by 1 in. high, grooved at the ends to
fit the guides. Cut a slot through it,
for the hook, as shown in Fig. 6, and
bolt the latter into place. The double-

217

hook nipper is better mechanically, and
may be made of two pieces of wire,
or cut from sheet metal.

Test the action of the nippers, and
bend or file the hooks to operate prop-
erly. The pile driver may then be
painted, and work on "jobs" begun.
If it is used at the water, fix metal
guards at the lower ends of the guides,
to prevent the hammer from falling
into the water.

Split Needle Causes Echo on Talking
Machine

An amusing stunt is to split the end
of a fiber talking-machine needle care-
fully about 1/4 ill-, so as to make two
points, slightly separated. The needle
is then placed on the machine, prefer-
ably on an old record, so that the points
play the record successively, produc-
ing an echo. If the work is carefully
done, and the points are separated
slightly, both reproductions will be
fairly clear. — Frank Murphy, Fari-
bault, Minn.

Weighting a Metal Base

Flaving to weight a shallow metal
base to support a 4-ft. brass tube, I
found that the easiest way was to fas-
ten four screws on the base with nuts,
as shown in the illustration, and pour

Molten Lead was Poured In around Screws
Fastened to the Base

in lead. The screws were taken out in
polishing the base. — James M. Kane,
Doylestown, Pa.

Trunk Bookcase for Convenient
Shipment

Mechanics, engineers, and other per-
sons are sometimes engaged in work

A Small Library may be Shipped Handily in This
Bookcase

which keeps them at the same locality
only a few months. Those who de-
sire to carry with them a small library
will find the trunk bookcase, as shown,
convenient. It may be shipped as a
trunk, and used as a bookcase in one's
hotel or dwelling. Other articles than
books may be packed in it. The out-
side dimensions when closed are 31
by 18 by 18 in., providing for three
shelves. It may be made of %-m.
pine or whitewood, and stained, or
covered with impregnated canvas. The
outer corners are reinforced with metal
corner plates, and suitable hardware is
provided. — Lloyd C. Eddy, Jr., Buf-
falo, N. Y.

CIn toasting bread over a camp fire, it
is best to cover the fire with a tin pan.

Bottle Carrier Made of Pipe Straps

Two metal pipe straps, fitted around
the neck of a bottle and bolted to-
gether, form a convenient method of
attaching a carrying handle to a large
bottle. The handle proper is made by
fixing a grip in a bail of wire similar
to that on a bucket.

218

A Developiift, or Etching-Tray Rocker

An appliance that saves time ior the
worker in a photographic dark room is
a tray rocker,
made as follows :
Fasten a bracket
of strap iron, in-
to which are
riveted the
pointed ends of
two spikes, to
the under side
of a board, as
shown in the de-
tail sketch. Sup-
port this further
with a double
angle fastened at
the end of the
board. Fix a

IRON
ROD

SMALL CAN FILLED -
WITH LEAD

small can, weighted with lead, on the
end of an iron rod, adjusted to a suit-
able curve, and fasten the rod to the
bracket. The weighted end should ex-
tend under the edge of the table, as
shown, and be balanced so that it will
rock the board and tray without tip-
ping the latter toward the bracket.
The nails pivot on metal pieces, to pro-
tect the table top. — L. L. Llewellyn,
Piedmont, Calif.

Combination Laundry Tub and
Dishwashing Sink

A saving of space and time was ef-
fected in a home kitchen by the use
of a sink de-
veloped in a
large kitchen.
Two ordinary
laundry tubs
were installed
with the faucets
raised above the
tubs, as shown.
A sink of sheet zinc was fitted in the
upper part of one tub ; it has handles,
and a strainer set in the bottom. The
strainer i? closed by a rubber stopper,
and the sink becomes a dishpan. The
sink is easily lifted out for cleaning,
or for washing clothes. Another use
for the sink, between meals, is for

washing and preparing vegetables and
fruits. The second tub has a wire dish-
draining rack, in which the china is
rinsed and sterilized by hot water from
the faucet. — Mrs. Avis Gordon Vestal,
Chicago, 111.

A Leather and Silk Bookmark

An artistic and useful bookmark was
made from a silk ribbon passed
through a buckle of leather, tooled
with an inscription and a conventional
design. Ribbon of various sizes may
be used, and the
leather left plain
if desired. The
ends of the rib-
bon are fringed,
as shown. Mono-
grams make in-
teresting and in-
dividual decora-
tions for the
leather portion.
—Will Chapel,
Manchester, la.

Emergency Oar-
lock of Rope

An oarlock
that will give
considerable ser-
vice may be
made by fixing a
loop of rope to the gunwale of a boat
at the proper position. This kink is
useful in an emergency, such as when
an oarlock is dropped overboard.

Planing Thin Sticks Held in Flooring
Groove

Boys who make thin sticks for
arrows, kites, etc., as well as the me-
chanic, can make good use of the
following suggestion : The difficulty of
handling thin strips while planing them
may be overcome by setting the strip
in the groove of a piece of flooring,
clamped in a vise. A peg or nail is
driven into the groove and acts as a
stop for the end of the strip.

*»,.

iiiftiiiPiiie iAiiep?

Efcau^MMli.i.Cil lili/ XMM&^Km

^nM^-^.AVdI'L

SUBMARINE photography should
have great attractions for amateur
photographers who have access to
lakes, ponds, and other clear waters.
While more careful work is demanded
than in ordinary photography, the
method of obtaining good results is not
difficult, and the necessary equipment
may be provided by constructing the
device shown in the illustration. Sub-
•marine pictures can be taken in a con-
siderable depth of water, providing it
is reasonabl}' free from foreign matter.
This is a fascinating field of photog-
raphy, and many pictures of educa-
tional and scientific value remain to be
made of under-water life. The illus-
tration shows the detailed construction
of the camera chamber, and the method
of suspending it from a bridge, or other
place convenient to the body of water.
Reproduced in the oval panel is a pho-
tograph of fish near baited hooks, on a
fishline. The original was made from
a negative exposed by the use of the
camera chamber described.

The problem of making photographic
exposures imder water involves the
provision of a strong water and pres-
sure-proof container for the camera, a
means for controlling the shutter, and
a suitable opening in the container
through which the exposures may be
made. The arrangement described
combines these features in a simple
manner, and by the use of materials
that can be obtained without difficulty.
It was made for a camera taking 4 by
5-in. pictures, and the dimensions
given are for a container for this size.
The dimensions may be varied to adapt
the device to various cameras, within
reasonable limits. A 9-in. steel pipe
was used for the chamber, and its ends
were fitted with pipe caps. A heavy
piece of plate glass was fitted into the
forward cap, which was cut into the
shape of a ring, to provide the ex-
posure opening. ^

The general arrange-

ment of the camera in the chamber is
shown in the sectional view. Fig. 1, as
seen from the shutter end. The electri-
cal device, by which the shutter is con-
trolled, is shown in this view, and in
Fig. 3 it is shown in detail.

The chamber was made as follows :
A section of 9-in. steel pipe was cut
to a length of lli/> in. and threaded on
the ends to fit pipe caps. The forward
pipe cap was chucked up in a lathe and
the center portion cut away, to provide
an exposure opening and a shoulder at
the rim, on which the plate-glass win-
dow rests. A graphite paint was ap-
plied to the rim, then the glass was
bedded solidly in it, and a rubber gasket
was fitted to the joint, making it water-
proof when the cap was drawn up
tightly. The chamber assembled and
in detail is shown in the illustration.

Holes were bored into the top of the
chamber, and eyebolts were fitted into
them. Between the eyebolts a hole was
bored and fitted with a water-tight col-
lar, through which the wires leading
to the shutter-control device pass. The
chamber is supported by the wires,
which are fixed to the eyebolts and
secured at the base of operations by
the photographer.

A support for the camera was pro-
vided by bending a strip of % by 1-in.
band iron to the shape indicated in Fig.
1, at A, and riveting it to the bottom
of the chamber. Its upper surface is
flat and was bored and threaded to fit
the tripod thumbscrew B, on the lower
surface of the camera. The camera is
arranged on the support and clamped
into place firmly by the thumb nut, as
it might be on a tripod. The adjust-
ment of the camera in the chamber is
done from the rear, and the space be-
neath the thumbscrew should be large
enough to make access easy. A camera
of the size indicated, when fitted with
its lens centering on the center of the
window, will be raised sufficiently for

219

220

convenience in clamping it. The
threads on the back cap must fit snugly
and no paint must be used on them.
Hard oil, or vaseline, may be applied to
insure a water-tight joint that permits
easy removal of the cap.

The making and adjustment of the
electrical shutter device requires care,
but its operation is simple. An electro-
magnet, of the type used on doorbells,
was fixed to the front of the camera,
above the shutter, as shown in Fig. 1 ,
and in detail in Fig. 2. It is actuated
by current from two dry cells. The
latter are kept in a convenient earner
at the base of operations, and are con-
nected to the magnet by a single strand
of double, waterproof wire. This is
spread as it reaches the chamber and
fastened to the two eyebolts in the top.
The ends of the wires are conducted
through the water-tight center opening
between the eyebolts, and attached to
the magnet. The release lever is fitted
to a steel hook, pivoted at its upper end
with a small nail, C, Fig. 2. A rubber
band is fixed to the lower edge of the
shutter lever and its other end is at-
tached to the front of the camera.
When the current is permitted to flow
into the magnet by pressing a contact
key, in the hand of the operator, the
steel hook is drawn from the release
lever, aiud the rubber band draws the
lever down, making an exposure.

The double-wire cable carries the
current as well as holds the chamber
suspended in the water. The wire
should be about 25 ft. long, and, in
transporting the outfit, or when only
partly used, is coiled. The chamber
should be completed for picture-taking
operations by giving it a coat of dull,
black waterproof paint, both inside and
outside. This will prevent rusting and
also serves to make the object incon-
spicuous when in the water. It is im-
portant that the interior be painted in
this manner, because reflections of light
within the chamber may cause diffi-
culty in obtaining satisfactory results.
When the paint is thoroughly dr}^ the
device may be tested for leakage and
assembled ready for a test before mak-
ing an actual trial in the water. The

camera is fitted into the chamber so
that it centers on the center oi the
plate-glass window, and is clamped into
place. If the electrical device opera'-es
satisfactorily the plate may be inserted,
the plate-holder slide withdrawn, the
back cap replaced securely, and the
outfit lowered into the water. It should
be watched carefully until it reaches
the proper depth, for, if it is permitted
to touch the bottom, the sediment
stirred up must be given time to settle
before an exposure is made. The for-
ward end of the chamber should be
marked on its upper edge with a streak
of white paint, to aid in identifying it
at considerable depth in the water.
This is important, since the operator
must shift the chamber carefully until
the window faces the objects to be
photographed. When the chamber is
in position, the contact key is pressed,
and the exposure is made.

The time of exposure for imder-water
photography depends on the clearness
of the water, the depth at which the
pictures are to be taken, and the light
conditions on the surface. A bright
day is, of course, desirable for this class
of photography. A safe approximation,
on a sunny day, in clear water, and
with the chamber lowered to a depth
of 20 ft., is ^25 sec. at the F 8 stop. The
fastest plates or films obtainable should
be used for this work, making possible
a fairly rapid shutter speed. This tends
to overcome the movement of the sub-
ject and possible movement of the
camera.

The camera should be focused while
in the chamber in order that the plate
glass may not disturb the focus. The
glass usually changes the focal length
of the lens slightly, hence this precau-
tion must be taken. The camera should
be focused in the chamber for a dis-
tance of 10 ft., as this is the average at
which under-water photographs will be
taken ordinarily.

When attempting under-water pho-
tography in cloudy waters, or at a con-
siderable depth, the necessary illumina-
tion may be provided by a charge of
flash-light powder. For this purpose
another submarine chamber, similar to

221

Photograpiiin;; Subjects un^icr Water Is a Fasci-
nating Diversion, and Eacli E>iposure Has an
Element of Mystery in the Uncertainty of the
Result. The Photograph Reproduced in the Oval
was Taken with the Outfit Shown. The Construc-
tion of the Chamber is Shown at the Middle.
Fig. 1 Shows a Sectional Interior View, and
" . 2, a Detail of the Electrical Shutter Release

^^M'^^KMOM

'^J'^JUX/Xfyj-JX/'JVJXnU

222

that used for the camera, should be pro-
vided, with a plate glass, '/o in. thick,
and a valve fitted into the top of the
chamber, and opening outward, so that
the gas may escape. Fifteen grains of
powder will sufilice, and this should be
set off by a small electrical fuse con-
nected to the current supply.

Every pond, lake, and river abounds
in interesting and instructive subjects
for submarine photograph)^ Along
the coast of Florida, and at many
points along the Pacific coast, are
waters of such clearness that pictures

may be taken at a depth of nearly a
hundred feet, without the use of arti-
ficial illumination. These localities
abound in objects under water of great
interest, such as shipwrecks. The fas-
cinating art of taking pictures under
water does not make it necessary for
one to go to these places, for subjects
are easily available. Wnenever the
submarine chamber is raised from the
water there is an element of mystery
involved, regarding what may be re-
corded on the plate or film, and this is
an attractive feature of the diversion.

The Magic of Numbers

By JAMES L. LANYON

That there are a great many magic
squares; that the numbers in these
squares are arranged according to a
definite system ; that squares with very
remarkable properties are easily con-
structed, are facts not generally
known.

Consider the magic square A of 16
numbers. Add up any four num-
bers straight across, up and down, or
diagonally — 10 ways in all — and the
sum in each case will be 34. But that
is not all : Take the four numbers in
any one quarter of the square, as for
example, 15, 10, 4, and 5, and the sum
will be 34; or take the four central
numbers, or the four corner numbers,
and the result will be the same. But
even this does not exhaust the magic
of the square. Add any four numbers
arranged symmetrically around the
center, as 3, 10, 8, and 13, or 10, 4, 7,
and 13, and the result will also be 34.
In fact, it is really not necessary to
have them arranged symmetrically, be-
cause it will be found that four num-
bers arranged as are 6, 10, 11, and 7,
or 1, 4, 16, and 13 will produce the same
magic number of 34.

There are two other combinations
of the 16 numbers that will give the
same result. The)'' are shown at B and
C. In fact the second one, B, not only
exhibits some of the former combina-
tions, but also includes such sets of
four as 14, 5, 3, and 12, or 15, 8, 2, and

9, which places to the credit of this
square numerous combinations. Such
special features as this simply add an-
other element of mystery and interest.
Thus, while the square B has these two
combinations exclusively to its credit,
the first, A, and the third, C, have such
special arrangements as 5, 16, 1, and 12,
or 15, 6, 11, and 2. Also 10, 3, 5, and
16, or 4, 5, 14, and 11, making the total
number of such combinations for the
first square 34.

Magic squares of 25 numbers also
have remarkable properties. Examine
the square D and note the many pos-
sible combinations graphically set forth
in the small diagrams. Not only do
any five numbers in a row or along a
diagonal make 65, but almost any four
arranged around the center, with the
center number 13 added, will give the
same result.

This square is a good example by
which to illustrate one of the methods
of construction of these interesting de-
vices. Thus, place 1 in the middle
square of the top row, and then write
the numbers down consecutively, al-
ways working in the direction of the
arrows as indicated. When any num-
ber falls outside, as number 2 does at
the start, drop down to the extreme
square in the next row and insert the
number there, as was done in this case.
It will be observed that 4 falls outside,
and so it is moved to the proper square

223

as suggested, which will be at the ex-
treme left of the next row above. Con-
tinuing, it is found that at 6 it is neces-

Although they do not contain quite
so many combinations, the three magic
squares shown at G all add up to this

15^

:>}

ft^

2:J

ICO^VDINATIOni - fe C0«C)l/*AT10m

The Magic Squares Shown Afford
Much Interest to the Experimenter
in Such Devices: The Mastery of
the Principle Underlying Some of
Them will Enable One to Mystify
and Interest Onlookers, with Little
Chance of the Simple Method being
Discovered

sary to drop down one square and
continue in the direction of the arrows.
At 9 it is necessary to drop down to the
proper extreme square as shown. The
next number, 10, must again be pro-
vided for at the square on the left of
the next higher row. The square ahead
being already filled, 11 is placed below ;
after this there is "clear sailing" for a
time. In this manner magic squares
with seven or nine numbers to the side
may be made easily. When puzzles
and catch problems are under discus-
sion, it is always mystifying to take
one's pencil and quickly make out a
magic square according to this easily
remembered method. The small dia-
grams at D suggest some of the com-
binations.

Another method of constructing a
square of 25 numbers diagonally is
shown at E. Place the outside num-
bers in the open spaces at the opposite
side of the square, maintaining the
same triangular relation, which results
in the arrangement shown at F. While
this combination is entirely different
from the previous one, it exhibits the
same mysterious properties.

same magic number of G5, straight
across, diagonally, and many other
ways. A square with seven numbers
to the side, worked out according to
the first method described, is illustrated
at H. The magic number here is 175.
Since the general principle is similar
to that involved in the squares de-
scribed in detail, the working out of the
numerous combinations of the squares
shown at G and H will be left to the
interested experimenter.

MufHing the Ticking of a Watch or
Clock

When a watch is used on a table in
the sick room, the ticking may be
eliminated by placing an ordinary
tumbler over the watch. The face may
be seen readily. A large glass vessel,
or transparent jar, may be used in the
same way to cover a small clock. — L.
E. Turner, Jamaica, N. Y.

CTo letter on prepared cloth, use col-
ors ground in japan and thin the mix-
ture with gasoline to the consistency
of tream.

A Simple Cipher Code

Adapted for Use in Private Correspondence

By CAPT. W. H. WALDRON, U. S. Army

HAVE you ever needed a secret
code in which to couch the con-
tents of a message intended for the
eyes of one person alone? If you have,
you will remember the difficulties that
were experienced in making up the
code and enciphering your letter. Here
is a cipher code that may be mastered

Fig. I Fig.? Fig. 3

The Cipher Code Illustrated in These Diagrams may

be Adapted for Wide Uses by the Substitution of

Appropriate Key Words for Those Shown

in a few minutes ; one that is most diffi-
cult to decipher by any person other
than those having the key words, and
that is very simple when once under-
stood.

It is commonly known as the "Play
Fair" code and is in use in some of the
foreign military services. It is a sub-
stitutive cipher which operates with
one or more key words, two letters in
the code being substituted for each two
letters in the text of the message. In
preparing the cipher code by this
method the key words are selected by
the correspondents and their location
in the cipher square mutually agreed
upon. A large square divided into 25
smaller squares is drawn, as shown in
Fig. 1, and the letters of the key words
entered into their proper spaces, the re-
maining spaces being filled by other
letters of the alphabet. The key words
must not contain duplicate letters. The
letters I and J are considered as one
and entered in the same space, the let-
ter I being invariably used in encipher-
ing.

Suppose that the two words "grant"
and "field" have been selected for the
key, the same to be entered respectively
in the spaces on the first and third hori-
zontal lines of the square. Then the
basis of the construction would be as
indicated in Fig. 1. Now fill in the re-

maining fifteen spaces of the square
with other letters of the alphabet, be-
ginning at the blank space at the left
of the second line, entering the letters
in rotation and not using any letter of
the key words. The completed cipher
would then appear as shown in Fig. 2.

The text of the message to be sent is
then divided into groups of two letters
each and the equivalent substituted for
each pair. Where two like letters fall
in the same pair the letter X is inserted
between them and when the message
is deciphered this additional letter is
disregarded. If one letter is left over
after the last pair, simply add an X
to it and make a pair.

Suppose it is desired to send this
message in the cipher : "Will you meet
me as agreed." Having three pairs of
the same letter, it will be necessary to
break them up by placing the letter X
Ijetween them. The message will then
be paired oflf as follows :

WI LS LY OU ME XE TM EA SA GR EX ED

The message may now be enciphered,
after considering three simple rules for
guidance : Every pair of letters in the
square must be either in the same ver-
tical line; in the same horizontal line;
or at the diagonally opposite corners of
a rectangle formed by the smaller
squares within the large square.

In the first case, R and P are in the
same vertical line (the second), and the
next letter below, in each case, is sub-
stituted for R and P, which are C and
W. If the pair consists of K and Y
(fourth vertical), substitute L for K
and go to the first horizontal line
(fourth vertical) for Y, substituting N
for Y. In the second case B and H are
in the same horizontal line (the sec-
ond), and thus substitute the next let-
ters to the right, which are C and K.
If the pair consists of P and U (fourth
horizontal), substitute Q for P and
then go back to the first vertical line
(fourth horizontal) and substitute O
for U. In the third case, R and S are at
the opposite corners of a rectangle.
Each letter of the pair is substituted by

224

235

the letter in the other corner of the
rectangle on the same horizontal line
with it. Then R would be represented
by N, and S would be represented by
P. To illustrate further, NE would be
represented by AL; BZ would be rep-
resented by MV; TP by RU.

The message may now be enciphered,
applying the rules :

WI LX LY on ME XE TM EA SA GR EX ED
BP EY SN PO HD AQ MD QH QN BA QA LF

In sending this message, to make it
more difficult for the inquisitive cipher
expert, divide the substituted letters
into v/ords of five each and give him
the added task of determining whether
the cipher used is the transposition or
the substitution method. The message
ready to hand to the telegrapher would
read :

RPEYS NPOHD AQMDQ HQNRA QALFX

In deciphering a message the method
is reversed. Take the message as re-
ceived, divide the letters into pairs, and
disregard the final X, which was put in
to make a five-letter word. Then apply
the key reversed. Practice it on the
above message to get the system with
respect to letters occurring at the end
of the lines. Where the letters of a
pair are in the same vertical line, sub-
stitute for each the letter above ; where
they are in the same horizontal line,
substitute the letter to the left ; where
they are in the corners of a rectangle,
substitute the letters at the opposite
corners on the same horizontal line.
To test the understanding of the sys-
tem, the message given in Fig. 3, with
the key words "chair" in the first hori-
zontal line and "optun" in the fourth
line, may be deciphered. The message
to be deciphered is as follows :

POVUO njTEF HRWDG APARQ TMMZM RBFVU
FICXM TBMXM AGEPA DONFC BAXAX.

Cheese Grater and Ash Tray Made
from a Tin Can

Being in need of a cheese grater and
finding it inconvenient to go many
miles to town, I constructed a satisfac-
tory makeshift. I took a heavily
tinned can and cut it in two, as shown
in the sketch. By punching holes

through it from the inside a practical
grater resulted. From the remaining
half of the can I made an ash tray;
as shown at the right of the sketch.

Necessity Resulted in the Making of a Cheese Grater
and Ash Tray from a Tin Can

The semicircular ends were bent over
to form a rest, and by cutting portions
at the sides and bending them in, a
convenient rest for a pipe or cigar was
afYorded. — Gus Hansen, Peachland,
B. C, Canada.

An Improvised Typewriter Desk

Travelers and others who carry type-
writers on their journeys frequently
find it inconvenient to use the tables
provided because they are usually too
high for typewriters. A method of
overcoming this difficulty is to, with-
draw the drawer from the table and in-
vert it in the slide as shown. The type-

Remove the Drawer and Replace It Inverted, to Pro-
vide a Convenient Rest for the Typewriter

writer may then be placed upon the
bottom of the drawer and will be con-
siderably lower than if placed upon the
table top.

326

StBlPS 5P '■

An Inexpensive Imitation Fire

Window decorations may frequently
be made attractive by the use of an
imitation fire in
a stove or a fire-
place, when an
indoor setting is
on display. To
produce such an
effect, put an
electric fan be-
low the place at
which the imita-
tion fire is to
be arranged and
run an electric-
light cord, with
a red globe at-
tached to it, to
the center of the
"flame." Cut a
number of strips of Indian red tissue
paper and fix the lower ends of these to
form a circular mass above the globe.
When the light is turned on permit the
fan to direct a stream of air against the
tissue-paper ribbons, forcing them up-
ward to appear like tongues of flame.
The sketch shows this method applied
to a heater. The fan is placed in the
ash box and the electric light is con-
ducted through the grate.

,ppp^3^

^^2^^'

Jardiniere Made of Metal-Lamp Body

Some of the metal bodies of old
lamps, and they are usually brass, are
of such ample
size and so
neatly embossed
that they can be
readily used as
jardinieres i n -
stead of being
handed to the
junk man. It is
only necessary
to remove the
lamp part, and
set the plant pot
into the bowl of
the stand, as
shown in the sketch. — H. N. Wolfe,
Chicago, 111.

Replacing a Broken Coffeepot Knob

A knob was broken from the lid of a
coffeepot, which was valued by reason
of its associations. Attempts to fasten
the broken portions together were un-
satisfactory, and the rough surface,
where the earthenware was broken, was
ground smooth and fitted with a care-
fully shaped wooden knob. A hole was
drilled through the center of the lid
with an old file and the wooden knob
bolted into place. When stained ap-
propriately, the repair was quite satis-
factory.

Homemade Magnesium Printer

A convenient homemade printing
device consists of a smooth board. A,
2 ft. long and 1 ft. wide, and an up-
right, B, which is 1 ft. square. Bore a
hole in the center of the upright for
the small tin holder E, to carry the
magnesium ribbon, made by folding a
piece of tin to fit it. Small pieces of
wood, CC, are nailed across the board

Length of Magnesium Ribbon Burned Determines
the Time of Exposure

to hold the ground glass D and the
printing frame G. The ground glass is
10 in. from the upright, and the print-
ing frame is 10 in. from the ground
glass. The latter is 1 ft. square and
is used to diffuse the light from the
magnesium ribbon F, which may be
purchased from any dealer in pho-
tographic supplies. The length of ex-
posure varies according to the length
of ribbon which is permitted to burn.
This should be tested out carefully be-
fore making exposures. — Gustave
Straub, Albany, N. Y.

CIn sandpapering a varnished surface
between coats, especial care should be
taken to avoid rubbing through at
sharp edges.

Garden Plow Made of Pick-Up Material

Br T. T. STURGEON

THE labor of spading a garden of
even moderate size is sufficient to
warrant the person who undertakes the
job in making a hand plow like that
shown in the illustration, for it will
serve many years, with reasonable care.
I made one worth about ■$5- at an outlay
of 25 cents, gathering the necessary
wood and metal from among old ma-
chine parts and pick-up material.

An old wheelbarrow provided the
16-in. wheel. The handles were made
from a % by 4-in. strip of spruce, 5 ft.
long. They were marked on the strip
so that one of the curved grips was at
each end, on opposite edges. The
curved parts of the grips were cut with
a keyhole saw, and when a kerf long
enough to admit a large ripsaw was
cut, the board was ripped into the two
handles. They were smoothed and the
grips trimmed with a sharp knife. A
section of broomstick was cut for the
upper brace. The lower one is made of
a strip of iron, 14 by lY^ by 12 in.,
drilled for %-in. bolts, and bent at right
angles, II/2 in. from each end. Drill a
i/4-in. hole at the middle, to engage a
bolt on which the vertical strip is sup-
ported, and adjusted to the operator, as
shown in Fig. 1.

Cut a strip, % by l^^ by 18 in., for
the vertical support, shown in Fig. 5.
Drill four ^/4-in. adjusting holes, 1 in.
apart, at the upper end, and three V^-in.
holes at the lower end for fastening the
strip to the moldboard, as shown in
Fig. 3. Drill a Vie-in. hole at the iV^-'m.
mark, for bolting the strip to the braces,
the other ends of which are fitted on the
% by 10-in. bolt used as an axle. Cut
the two braces 14 in. long, of 1/4 by
li/4-in. strips, and drill a %-in. hole in

the forward end of each, to fit the axle,
and a •'^o-in. hole in the opposite ends,
1 in. from the ends in each case. Cut

This Hand Garden Plow was Made of Old Material,

a Shovel being Used for the Making

of the Moldboard

a strip, 14 by % by 12 in., for the land-
side, as shown in Fig. 2, bent under the
moldboard, and bolted to it. The proper
angle can best be bent after the mold-
board is made and fitted.

227

228

The method of marking the shape of
the moldboard on the blade of an old
shovel is shown in Fig. 4. Make a pat-
tern of cardboard, marking it into 1-in.
squares. Draw the shape of the mold-
board by tracing the outline through
the corresponding squares, using the
diagram as a guide. Mark the position
of the bolt holes, for fastening it to the
vertical support, indicated by the dash
lines at the right. Cut out the pattern
and trace around it on the shovel, using
the thickest part for the point of the
share. Cut out the outline, smooth the
edges, and point up the cutting edge.
Drill holes for fastening the moldboard
to the vertical strap with Vi-in. bolts.

and for the fastenings to the landside,
with Yie-in. bolts.

Curve the moldboard into shape and
fit it to the various supports so that it
sits properly, as shown in Fig. 1, seen
from the furrow side, in Fig. 2, from
the rear, and in Fig. 3, from the land
side. Bend the 12-in. strip into shape,
as shown in Fig. 2, and bolt it into
place, to form the landside. Assemble
the parts, being careful that the wheel
and landside are set in line, as shown
in Fig. 2, and that the rear edge of the
latter is raised slightly, as in Fig. 3.
The plow should be given a coat of
paint, and the cutting parts made
smooth, and oiled.

An Interesting Water Telescope

A water telescope is easy to make
and will afford much pleasure in ex-
ploring plant or
animal life in
compara-
tively shallow
water. The de-
vice is made by
fitting a heavy
glass disk into
the end of a
round metal
tube, about 3 in.
in diameter. The
glass is fitted be-
tween two rings
of metal, prefer-
abl)' with a small
flange set against
the glass. A wa-
terproof cement
is used to fix the
glass between
the rings. To use
the "telescope,"
rest it on the side
of a boat or other
convenient place
at the water, and
set the lower
end, containing the glass, under the
water. Remarkably clear views may
be had in this way. — S. Leonard Bas-
tin, Bournemouth, England.

Writing on a Moving Train

Writing legibly on a fast-moving
train is difficult to a person unaccus-
tomed to it. The railroad conductor
knows the trick of it and manages to
get along quite satisfactorily. He pre-
fers to write in a standing position and
holds his right elbow firmly against
his side. The reason for this is that in
a sitting posture there is too much
lateral movement in the trunk of the
body, while in a standing position this
is more easily controlled. When the
arm swings freely, as in ordinary writ-
ing, several joints of the body are af-
fected in the process, each of which is
capable of its own motion. Holding
the elbow against one's ribs "breaks"
these motion tendencies, except that of
the wrist, which movement is neces-
sary in writing, and thus the pencil, or
pen, is more easily controlled.

The same principles modified apply
in using a typewriter on a moving
train. Many traveling men, news cor-
respondents, and others, carry portable
typewriters and do much of their writ-
ing while traveling on trains, not to
mention the various railroad and gov-
ernment men who travel in office cars
and necessarily must get out their cor-
respondence en route. It is extremely
difficult to execute neat typewriting on
a moving train with free-arm move-
ment, even though the centrrvl portion

239

of the car where the vibration and
swing is less severe, is selected. As I
am employed in such capacity, I had
to evolve some plan to expedite the
work. I am able to do typewriting
quite rapidly by resting the palm of
the hands, near the wrists, against the
front edge of the typewriter frame sur-
rounding the keyboard, and using the
swing of the fingers instead of that of
the whole arm, as in ordinary type-
writing.— Victor Labadie, Dallas, Tex.

across a meadow or lot, a notch is cut
in the turf for the blade, and the device
is set into place, stamping it down to
give a good start. The operator stands

A Revolving Window Display

A jeweler attracted passers-by and
not a few customers by placing a re-
volving display
in his window,
which was kept
i n motion b y
means of the ar-
rangement
shown in the
sketch. A 10-in.
cut-glass bowl
was placed, up-
side down, near
the front of the
show window.
An inverted
tumbler was set
upon it and a
small tin box
was pivoted on
the tumbler by
means of a needle soldered inside of it.
Six arms of wire were soldered to the
box, and watches were suspended from
them. The carefully balanced frame
revolved easily on the point of the
needle. It was kept in motion by the
draft from a fan hidden behind a mir-
ror.— H. S. Hart, Shreveport, La.

A Horse-Drawn Sod Cutter

The cutting of a considerable area of
sod is tedious work when done by hand,
and it is difficult to make the sections
of uniform thickness and size. These
important features are provided for by
the use of the homemade sod cutter
shown in the sketch. To start a cut

With This Device Sod may be Cut Quickly and of
Uniform Width and Thickness

on the plank in front of the blade, and
a little practice will soon determine the
best position for ease in operation.
When a cut has been completed, the
cutter is dragged to a fresh starting
place, the driver turning it over on the
upper side. The strips are cut into
suitable lengths and piled conveniently
for removal with a stone boat or wagon.
The device may be made of any suit-
able width ; 15 in. between the inner
edges of the blade, and the latter set
to cut a depth of about Si/o in., being
desirable. The board is a 2-in. plank,
about 4 ft. long. The blade should be
set with the cutting edge slanting
slightly downward so as to make the
device "bite" into the ground. A
smaller cutter may be made for use by
boys, several of whom may draw it. —
F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.

230

A Match-Box Trick

All that is required to perform this
trick is a box of safety matches. Four
matches are removed and three of
them arranged as
>3;)} show n in the
sketch. The per-
former then tells
his friends that
he will light the
fourth match
and set the cross
match on fire in
the center, then
asks which
match of the
standing ones will light first. Most
persons will not stop to think and
guess either one or the other. As a
matter of fact, after the cross match
is set on fire it soon burns the wood
away, and the pressure of the two side
matches will cause it to spring out so
that neither catches fire. — Contributed
by Abner B. Shaw, North Dartmouth,
Massachusetts.

Cutting Glass Bottle with Electricity

Performing an experiment in a
laboratory, it became necessary to
have some apparatus which we did not
possess at the
time. A bell jar
could have been
used, but this we
did not have, and
as a substitute
we used a large
glass bottle, 8 in.
in diameter, with
the bottom re-
moved. In order
■ T-^ r..-. ^1 to do this, we

TO DYNAMO-" r • ^ J

first made a
mark around the outside of the bottle
near the bottom with a glass cutter. A
piece of copper wire, i/^o in- in diam-
eter, was then wound around the out-
side on the mark and connected to the
circuit.

As the wire would expand enough to
make it slip of? the bottle when heated
red-hot, pliers were used to keep it

taut about the bottle when the current
was turned on. A current of 110 volts
and 5 amperes was run through the
wire, heating it red-hot, and this
cracked the glass exactly on the line
marked by the glass cutter. — Con-
tributed by R. E. Hollis, Chicago, 111.

Nail Cabinet with MuiBn-Pan Trays

Muf?in-pan trays used by the house-
wife in baking make serviceable con-
tainers for nails, screws, and other
small articles used in a shop. The il-
lustration shows the pans fitted into a
box, and sliding in grooves cut into the
sides with a saw.

The box is made with the end pieces
lapping over the top and the bottom,
this being a better construction to

The Metal Trays Are Substantial and may be
Removed Readily for Use Elsewhere

carry the weight of the trays. The
wood used in the sides is Yg in. thick,
in order that a saw cut may be made to
a depth of 1/4 in. without weakening
the support. Thinner wood may be
used if instead of saw cuts small strips
of wood are nailed against the side on
which the trays may slide. — Contrib-
uted by Harry J. Blacklidge, San
Rafael, Cal.

Waterproofing Matches

Dipping ordinary parlor matches
into melted paraffin and permitting
them to dry thoroughly will enable
them to withstand water. The paraf-
fin acts like a wax candle and is un-
affected by the moisture. This should
be of aid to campers and others who
find it hard to keep matches dry. —
Contributed by J. \V. Lambert, Jr.,
New York, N. Y.

THE electric locomotive described
may be constructed by boys hav-
ing average mechanical ability and the
necessary tools. However, in any
piece of mechanical construction care
must be taken to follow the instruc-
tions. The material required is in-
expensive, and the pleasure derived
from such a toy is well worth the time
used in its construction.

The making of the outfit may be
divided into three parts, the first of
which is the motor; second, the truck,
which is to carry the motor and the
body of the car, and third, the track
system upon which the engine is to
operate. A side view of the locomotive
is shown in Fig. 1.

The motor is of the series type, hav-
ing its field and armature terminals
connected to the source of electrical
energy through a special re-
versing switch. By this means
the rotation of the armature
may be reversed to make the
locomotive travel forward or
backward. The armature and
field are constructed of sheet-
iron stampings, riveted to-
gether.

The detailed construction of
the armature and its dimen-
sions are shown in Fig. 3. The
shaft upon which the arma-
ture core and commutator are to be
rigidly mounted is made of a piece
of steel rod, %2 '"■ in diameter. A por-
tion of this rod, 2i/4 in. long, is threaded

PART I— The Motor

with a fine thread, and two small brass,
or iron, nuts are provided to fit it. The
ends of the rod are turned down to a
diameter of % in. for a distance of
Vs in. These are to fit in the bearings
that are to be made later.

Cut from thin sheet iron a sufficient
number of disks, ll^ in. in diameter,
to make a pile exactly % in. thick
when they are securely clamped to-
gether. Drill a hole in the center of
each of these disks, of such a size
that they will slip on the shaft snugly.
Remove the rough edges from the disks
and see that they are flat. Cut two
disks of the same size, from a piece of
%6-in. spring brass, and drill a hole in
the center of each, so that they will
slip on the shaft. Place all these disks
on the shaft, with the brass ones on the
outside, and draw them up tightly with
the nuts provided. Be sure to get the
laminated core in the proper position
on the shaft by observing the dimen-
sions given in the illustration, Fig. 2.

•^r^

^F^

Fig. I
Side View of a Locomotive Designed to be Operated
with Either End Forward

After the disks have been fastened,
clamp the shaft in the chuck of a
lathe and turn down the edges of all
the disks so that they form a smooth

231

233

cylinder, 1^16 in. in diameter. Draw a
circle on the side of one of the brass
disks, %2 in. from the edge, while the
shaft is held in the chuck. Divide this
circle into eight equal parts and make
a center-punch mark at each division.
Drill eight holes through the core
lengthwise with a /ie-in. drill. If the
centers of the holes have been properly
located, all the metal on the outside
will be cut away, as shown in the end
view, at the right in Fig. 2. The width
of the gaps, F, G, H, etc., thus formed,
should be about Yiq in. Smooth ofif all
the edges with a fine file after the holes
are drilled.

A cross-sectional view of the com-
mutator is shown at the extreme left.
Fig. 2. It is constructed as follows :
Take a rod of copper or brass, % in. in
diameter, and 1^/4 in. long; clamp one
end in the chuck of a lathe. Turn the
other end down to a diameter of % in.,
and drill a i/2-in. hole through it at the
center. Cut away the metal from the
end to form a disklike recess.

Cut off a disk, ^^e in. thick, measur-
ing from the finished end, from the
piece of stock. Place this disk in a
chuck, with the unfinished end ex-
posed, and cut away the metal in a dish
form, as shown at B. Cut small slots,
into which the ends of the wires used
in winding are to be soldered, as shown
at 1, 2, 3, etc., in the right-hand view of
Fig. 2. Obtain two brass nuts, about
^/4 in. in thickness, and turn their edges
down so that they correspond in form
to those shown at C and D. Divide the

points, in the rim of the disk. These
cuts should be through the rim. Fill
each of the slots with a piece of mica
insulation.

Place one of the nuts on the shaft,
and then a washer of mica insulation,
shown by the heavy lines, near A and
B ; then the ring, a second piece of
mica, and last the nut, C. The latter
should be drawn up tightly, so that the
insulation in the slots in the disk are
opposite the drilled slots in the arma-
ture core, as shown in the right-hand
view of Fig. 2. After the disk has been
fastened securely, test it to learn
whether it is insulated from the shaft,
'^his is done by means of a battery and
bell, connected in series, one terminal
of the circuit being connected to the
disk, and the other to the shaft. If the
bell rings when these connections are
made, the ring and shaft are not insu-
lated. The disk must then be re-
mounted, using new washers of mica
insulation. Mica is used because of its
ability to withstand a higher degree of
heat than most other forms of insula-
tion.

Each of the eight segments of the
dished disk should be insulated from
the others. Make a test to see if the
adjacent commutator segments are in-
sulated from each other, and also from
the shaft. If the test indicates that any
segment is electrically connected to
another, or to the shaft, the commu-
tator must be dismantled, and the
trouble corrected.

The armature is now ready to be

FiG.2

How the Armature Core is Made of Soft-Iron Disks for the Lamination, at the Left. Diagram for the
Winding of the Armature Coils and Their Connection to the Commutator, at the Right

disk ring, just made, into eight equal
parts, by lines drawn across it through
the center. Cut eight slots at these

wound. Procure Ys lb. of No. 26 gauge
insulated copper wire. Insulate the
shaft, at E, with several turns of thin

333

cloth insulation, and also insulate simi-
larly the nuts holding the armature
core and the inside nut holding the
commutator. Cut several pieces from
the cloth insulation, wide enough to
cover the walls of the slots in the core,
and long enough to extend at least Yiq
in. beyond the core at the ends. Insu-
late slots F and G thus, and wind 15
turns of the wire around the core
lengthwise, passing the wire back
through the slot F, across the back end
of the core, then toward the front end
through slot G, and back through F,
and so on. About 2 in. of free wire
should be provided at each end of the
coils.

In passing across the ends of the ar-
mature, all the turns are placed on one
side of the shaft, and so as to pass on
the left side, the armature being viewed
from the commutator end. The second
coil, Avhich is wound in the same
grooves, is then passed on the right
side, the third on the left, and so on.
After this coil is completed test it to
see if it is connected to the armature
core. If such a condition is found, the
coil must be rewound. If the insula-
tion is good, wind the second coil,
which is wound in the same slots, F
and G, and composed of the same num-
ber of turns. Insulate the slots H and
J, and wind two coils of 15 turns each
in them, observing the same precau-
tions as with the first two coils. The
fifth and sixth coils are placed in slots
K and L, and the seventh and eighth,
in slots M and N.

The arrangement of the half coils,
slots, and commutator segments is
given in detail in Fig. 3. Each coil is
reduced to one turn in the illustration,
in order to simplify it. From an in-
spection of this diagram it may be seen
that the outside end of the second coil
in the upper row of figures, at the left
end, is connected to the inside end of
the fourth coil at segment 1, in the
lower row of figures, representing the
segments of the commutator. The out-
side end of the fourth coil is connected
with the inside end of the sixth coil,
at segment 2 ; the outside end of the
sixth coil is connected with the inside

end of the eighth coil at segment 3;
the outside end of the eighth coil is
connected to the inside end of the coil 1
at segment 4; the outside end of the
coil 1 is connected to the inside end of
the coil 3 at segment 5 ; the outside

Pattern for the Field Stampings, Several Pieces being
Used to Make the Desired Thickness

end of the third coil is connected to the
inside end of the fifth coil at segment
6 ; the outside end of the fifth coil is
connected to the inside end of the
seventh coil at segment 7 ; the outside
end of the seventh coil is connected to
the inside end of the second coil at(
segment 8, and the outside end of the
second coil is connected to segment 1,
completing the circuit.

In winding the coils on the core,
their ends should be terminated close
to the commutator segments to which
they are to be connected, in order to
simplify the end connections. After
all the coils are wound and properly
tested, their ends may be connected as
indicated. They are then soldered into
the slots in the ends of the commutator
segments. The completed winding is
given a coating of shellac.

The dimensions and form of the field
stampings are given in Fig. 4. A num-
ber of these cut from thin sheet iron to
make a pile % in. thick when clamped
together is needed. The dimensions of
the opening to carry the armature
should be a little less than that indi-
cated in the sketch, as it will be neces-
sary to true it up after the stampings
are fastened together. Use one of the
stampings as a pattern, and drill seven
small holes in each, as indicated by the

234

letters O, P, Q, R, S, T, and U. Fasten
them together with small rivets, and
true up the opening for the armature
to a diameter of IVs in. Drill five Vs-
in. holes, as indicated by the letters

Now cut two pieces from Ke^in-
sheet brass, similar to those shown in
Fig. 5. Place them on opposite sides of
the laminated field structure, shown in
Fig. 4, and carefully mark the position

Detail of the Field-Structure Supports, One Being for the Left Side and the Other for the Right.
The Supports arc Shown in Place at the Right

V, W, X, Y, and Z, to be used in
mounting the pieces, which are to form
the armature bearings, brush supports,
and base of the motor.

Cut two rectangular washers from a
piece of thin fiber insulation, with out-
side dimensions of 1% in. and IVl in.,
and an inside opening, Mjin- by % in.
Cut open these washers and slip them
in position on the portion of the field
marked ZZ. Wrap two turns of the
cloth insulation about this part, which
is to form the field core, and wind the
space full of No. 18 gauge enamel-

-?—

-?--^

-f^H

Fig. 7
Detail of the Brush Holders. One Inch Long, with
Holes as Shown

insulated copper wire. Give the com-
pleted winding a coat of shellac. The
terminals of this winding should be
brought out through two holes drilled
in one of the fiber washers, one near
the core and the other near the outer
edge. It is better to have the field ter-
minals at the lower end of the part ZZ
than at the upper end.

of the holes, V, W, X, Y, and Z, as in-
dicated in Fig. 4, and drill Vs-in. holes,
where the marks were made. Lay out
and drill Vs-'ni. holes, A, B, C, and D,
Fig. 5. Bend the upper portion of the
pieces at right angles to the lower por-
tion, along the dotted lines E, and then
bend the end of the horizontal portions
down along the dotted lines F, until
they are parallel with the main ver-
tical parts of the pieces. The latter
should be bent so that one forms the
left support and the other the right, as
shown in Fig. 6.

Bend the projections G and H at
right angles to the vertical main parts.
The parts at the bottom are bent, one
back along the dotted line J and for-
ward on the line K ; the other forward
on the line L and back on the line M.
The pieces are then mounted, on the
side of the field structure, as shown
in Fig. 6. The supports are fastened
in place with five small bolts. The
grooves N and O, in Fig. 5, are used
in mounting the motor on the axles of
the truck. They will not be cut until
after the truck is constructed

The brush holders are made of two
pieces of hexagonal brass, each 1 in. in

235

length, having a %-in. hole drilled in
one end to a depth of % in-> ^^d 2-
threaded hole in the other end, for a
small machine screw, as shown in Fig.
7. Two holes are drilled and threaded
in one side of each of these pieces.
These holders are to be mounted, by
means of screws, through the holes A,
B, C, and D, Fig. 5. Each holder must
be insulated from its support. The
distance of the holder from its support
should be such that the opening in its
end is in the center of the commutator.
The brushes are made of very fine cop-
per gauze, rolled to form a rod. They

are made long enough to extend about
y2 in. into the holder, when they are
resting on the commutator. A small
spiral spring is placed in the holder,
back of the end of the brush, and which
will serve to keep the latter in contact
with the commutator.

Temporary connections are made and
the motor is tested with a six-volt bat-
tery. The construction of the motor
may be modified as to the length of
shaft, and other minor details, and may
be used for other purposes by fitting
it with pulleys, a countershaft, or
other transmission devices.

Making String Solder

String solder of a size convenient
for electrical work, or other soldering,
where only a small quantity is desired,
may be made by adapting a ladle for
the purpose. Drill a small hole
through the ladle near its upper edge.
Melt the solder and pour it through
the small hole, permitting it to fall on
a slab of marble, slate, or stone. The
ladle must be moved in zigzag lines in
order to prevent the string from cross-
ing and to make it possible to roll up
the solder into rings of a convenient
size. — Contributed by L. E. Fetter,
Portsmouth, N. H.

A
coat

ance

son.

Prevent Wire Coat Hook from
Turning

good way to keep a common wire

hook in an upright position is to
drive a small wire
staple over the
smaller hook. In
public places, such
as halls, this will
often prevent their
removal and save
considerable annoy-

— Contributed by Harry L. Dix-

Chicago, 111.

CThe second coat of varnish should
never be put on until the first has been
"mossed" (rubbed) ofif; as, otherwise,
it will not stick well.

Cement Grotto for an Aquarium

To build a small cement grotto for
an aquarium, make a clay mold by
roughly excavating two right-angled

WIRE ,r^ CEMENT

REIMFORCEMENT,

CLAY

'LUMP

PAPER

BOARD

Cement Grotto
Roughly Molded
over Clay, Shaped
to Make the Right
Form

gutters in a lump of clay. Grease, or
shellac, the mold after it is dry. Apply
cement of about the consistency of
putty, or dough, filling the gutters
roughly so as to give a rocklike fin-
ish. Small shells can be stuck into the
cement while it is yet moist. Before
entirely shaping the cement, a piece of
heavy wire is bent to conform to the
shape of the grotto and set in for a re-
inforcement.

Holes can be made by twisting pa-
per, so that it will extend out at each
side, and laying cement over it. After
the cement is thoroughly dry, the pa-
per can be removed in sections.

236

Lamp Wicks Cheaply Made

Lamp wicks may be made cheaply
at home from an old soft-felt hat. The
hat should first be brushed clean and

:;/

II II

1
1

))

Cut the Hat into Halves and Then Cut It into Strips,
from Which the Wicks are Made

the brim flattened by ironing it. The
greatest number of wicks may be ob-
tained if the hat is cut into halves with
a pair of scissors, and then cut into
strips of the required size, as shown in
the sketch. Soak the strips in vinegar
for two hours, dry them out of doors,
if convenient, and they are ready for
use. — Contributed by George H.
Holden.

Concrete Water Basin for Poultry

A concrete worker was asked by a
farmer to build a concrete basin for
watering the poultry. Having no forms
at hand, the mechanic used an ordinary
washbasin and a wood box as shown in
the illustration. The basin was greased
before it was placed in the concrete.

• CONCRETE

An Ordinary Washbasin was Used to Shape the
Depression in the Concrete

The completed concrete basin was
buried with its upper surface level with
the ground. — Contributed by James M.
Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Substitute for Ground Glass in Camera

The ground glass in my camera was
broken while arranging to take a pic-
ture of a party one evening, and being
unable to obtain another, I substituted
a piece of white tissue paper drawn
over a piece of plain glass. It did the
work so well on that occasion that I
have used it continuously since, and
have found it better than the ground
glass. It produces superior definition
in the views on the glass, especially
when working in a poor light, and is
a good focusing screen. — Contributed
by C. W. Smalley, Des Moines, la.

Pencil Holder for Workbench

Mechanics, and others who have oc-
casion to use a pencil on a workbench,
will appreciate
the pencil holder
shown in the
sketch. It was
made by solder-
ing the small
brass ferrule
into the bottom
of a portion of a

brass knob, and

""^ weighting the

knob with lead. The pencil will be
held in an upright position where it
may be easily seen. — Contributed by
R. F. Hoffman, Chicago.

Repairing Burned-Out Incandescent
Globes

Incandescent electric bulbs that
have been burned out may be repaired
by shaking them, in order to cause the
broken ends of the metal filament to
strike together. By examining the
broken filament one can determine in
what direction to shake the globe. The
sudden passage of the current upon
contact causes an arc at the broken
ends of the filament, welding them. A
globe thus repaired should be placed
in a socket where it will not be given
undue disturbance and will then last
for a considerable period.

SUCCESSFUL operation and con-
struction that is feasible, yet of a
reasonable standard of workmanship,
are the essentials of the locomotive
truck and cab described as the second
feature of the locomotive and track
system under consideration. The ma-
terials suggested are those found to
be satisfactory, but substitutes may be
used if caution is observed. The com-
pleted locomotive is shown in Figs. 1
and 2. The outward aspect only is
presented, and, for the sake of clear-
ness, the portions of the motor and
driving rigging attached to it, that
project below the cab, are omitted.
These parts are shown assembled in
Fig. 13, and in detail in the succeeding
sketches.

The locomotive, apart from the
motor, consists of two main portions,
the truck and the cab. Consideration
will be given first to the building of
the truck and the fitting of the motor
into it. The mechanical and operative
features are to be completed before
beginning work on the cab, which is
merely a hood fixed into place with
screws, set into the wooden cab base.

Begin the construction with the
wheels, shown in Fig. 3. Make the
axles of %-in. round steel rod, cut 3%g
in. long.

Turn four wheels of %-in. brass.
Drill a %-in. hole in two of them so
that they may be forced on the slightly
tapered ends of the axle. Drill a %,-in.
hole in each of the other wheels, and

PART II — Construction of the
Locomotive Truck and Cab

solder a collar, A, Fig. 3, on the inside
surfaces of them. Two fiber bushings,
B, should be provided to fit in the
%-in. openings in the wheels and to
fit tightly on the ends of the axles.
This insulates the wheels on one side
of the truck from those on the other.
If the rails forming the track are insu-
lated from each other, the current
supplied to the motor may pass in on
one rail to the two insulated wheels,
then to a brush, which bears on the
brass collar A, through the windings
of the motor, through the reversing
switch to the other set of wheels, and
back to the source of energy over the
other rail, as shown in Fig. 15.

The wheels of the truck should fit
on the axles tightly, since no means
other than the friction will be em-
ployed in holding them in position. If
the ends of the axles are tapered
slightly, the wheels may be forced into
place and will stay firmly. Do not
force them on until the truck is finally
assembled.

The truck frame should be con-
structed next, and its details are shown
in Figs. 4 and 5. Make two sidepieces
of Ke-iii- brass, 9% in. long and 1% in.
wide, cutting out portions, as shown,
in order to reduce the weight. This
also gives the appearance of leaf
springs.

The two rectangular openings are to
accommodate the axle bearings. They
should be cut to precise dimensions,
and their edges should be squared ofl^.
Extensions, Yiq in. wide, are provided
at the middle of the upper edges of
each of these openings. They are to
hold the upper end of the coil springs.

237

238

(which are to rest in the holes cut into
the bearings, as shown at G, Fig. 7,
and also in assembled form, Fig. 6.

Next drill four Vs-in. holes in each
of the sidepieces, as indicated at the
letters Hi to H4, Fig. 5. For the cross
supports use four pieces of brass rod,
% in. square, and square ofif the ends
to a length of 2% in. Drill holes in
the center of the ends and tap them
for %-in. machine screws. Join the
side and crosspieces as shown in Fig. 4.
Two fiber washers about Yi^ in. thick
should be placed on each axle at E
and F, to hold the wheels from contact
with the sidepieces.

Details of a bearing for the axles
are shown in Fig. 7. The hole G car-
ries the lower end of the coil spring,
and the hole J is the bearing socket
for the axle. Four spiral springs, hav-
ing an outside diameter of % in. and
a length of i/o in. when extended,
should be provided. The extensions
On the sides of the- bearings fit against
the inner faces of the sides of the
truck. They hold the bearings in posi-
tion and prevent them from falling out.

The base of the cab is made of wood,
dimensioned as in Fig. 10. The center
of the piece is cut away so as to pro-
vide a space for the motor, which ex-
tends above the upper edge of the
truck, as shown in Fig. 13. This block
is fastened in place by four screws
through the upper crosspieces at the
ends of the truck. The base should be
made and fitted into place temporarily
so as to be available in observing how
the motor and its fittings are placed
in relation to it. For convenience in
assembling the parts of the truck and
setting the motor, it may be removed
readily.

Assembling the truck, including the
motor, probably requires the most
painstaking effort of any part of the
construction of the locomotive. Too
great care cannot be taken with it. as
the dimensions are carefully worked
out and failure to obsen-e them may
cause errors sufficient to make the loco-
motive unserviceable. Before under-
taking this work it would be well to
examine carefully the arrangement of

the parts as shown in Fig. 13. The
upper view shows the relation of the
driving gears in mesh and the lower
view shows the machinery of the truck
as seen from above.

The power from the motor is trans-
mitted to one set of wheels by means
of a small gear on the armature shaft
engaging an intermediate gear, which
in turn engages a large gear attached
to the inside of one of the truck wheels.
The center of the armature shaft is
1%6 in- from the center of the power
axle, when both axles are in the slots
provided in the motor frame. Fig. 13.
The gears for the transmission may
now be selected. The gear on the
armature shaft should be as small, and
that on the axle as large, as practicable.
The intermediate gear should be of
such a size that it will close the space
between the small gear on the arma-
ture shaft and the large one on the
axle. Gears suitable for the transmis-
sion may be purchased at a clock store
for a small sum. If gears of exactly
the proper size cannot be obtained
readily, the position of the interme-
diate gear may be adjusted to produce
a proper meshing of the gears.

Mount the small gear on the end of.
the armature shaft away from the com-
mutator, so that there will be about
^^e-iii- clearance between the outside
surface and the shoulder at the end of
the shaft. Fit it on tightly so that no
other means of fastening will be neces-
sar)^ Mount the large gear on the
inside surface of one of the truck
wheels, as shown in Figs. 3 and 13.
Place the axle of the truck into the
proper grooves in the motor frame, and
mark the position of the center of the
intermediate gear, when it engages the
other gear. Drill a hole in the exten-
sion on the motor frame, provided as
a support, to fit a small bolt with
which the intermediate gear is fas-
tened.

Place a washer between the gear and
the piece upon which it is mounted,
and a locknut on the threaded end of
the bolt, drawing it up so that the
gear has only sufficient play.

The slots in the motor frame to fit

SIDE AND FRONT VIEW OF COMPLETED LOCOMOTIVE
Fig. I
H,

SIDE OF TRUCK
Fis.5

CONSTRUCTION OF WHEELS
FiG.3

C:::^

SS' '

! Q

^m,..

COUPLING
Fig. 1 1

Successful Operation, Based on Feasible
Construction and a Reasonable Standard
of Workmanship, Is the First Consideration
in the Locomotive. The Dimensions should
be Observed Closely in Order That the Parts
may be Assembled Satisfactorily. The Con-
struction of the Cab Is Suggestive Only,
and the Inventive Builder may Design One
in Conformity with the Materials Available
or the Individual Taste

BOrTOM QF LOCOMOTIVE CAB

the free axle may now be cut, as
shown in Fig. 13. Place the motor in
position on the axle so that the gears

Fig. 12, Installation of the Motor. Showing Gears
and Switch Contact Spring

all mesh properly. Fit tubes of insulat-
ing material with an outside diameter
of % in. at C and D, Fig. 3, and as
also shown in Fig. 12. Insulation
tubes should be provided for the sec-
ond axle so as to hold the motor in
position, and to keep the wheels in
line. In mounting the various parts
sufficient play should be allowed to
prevent excessive friction.

The reversing switch, which is to be
mounted on the under side of the
motor frame, is shown in Figs. 13 and
14. It is provided with a control lever
which projects out from under the

r*Tss4

Fig. 13. Details of the Switch, Shaded Portions Being
of Fiber Insulation

truck frame. A small movement of
the lever will produce the necessary
changes in the connections. The oper-
ation of the switch may be understood

readily from the diagram shown in
Fig. 15. The moving element of the
switch carries two pieces of copper,
E and F, which connect the four sta-
tionary pieces of copper, A, B, C, and
D, when the lever attached to E and
F is moved to either side of its central
position. The pieces of copper which
are moved — E and F — are shown out-
side of the stationary pieces in Fig. 15
for purposes of a diagram only, and
are actually directly over the ring
formed by the stationary pieces.

The operation of the switch is as
follows : Assuming that the current
enturs at the terminal marked 1 and
leaves at the terminal marked 3, then
the direction of the current in the arm-
ature and series field will be as indi-
cated in the diagrams. The direction
of the current in the series-field wind-
ing is difi^erent in the two cases, which
will result in opposite rotation of the
armature.

The base of the switch is made of
%6"ii^- fiber insulation ; its dimensions
are shown in Fig. 13. It is to be
mounted on the two pieces projecting
outward on the under side of the
motor frame, as shown in Fig. 1-1.
Drill a small hole in each of these pro-
jections, as indicated by the letters H^
and Ho, and tap them to take a small
machine screw. Next drill two holes,
Hj and H,, Fig. 13, in the piece of
insulation, with centers the same dis-
tance apart as those drilled in the pro-
jections. One end of this piece of insu-
lation is extended to form a mounting
for a thin brass spring, the ends of
which bear on the brass collars insu-
lated from the axles, as shown in Figs.
12 and 13. The form of this spring
and the method of mounting it are also
shown in Fig. 13.

The sections which come into con-
tact in the switch are made as follows :
Mount four pieces of thin copper or
brass on the fiber base with rivets hav-
ing their heads countersunk. Cut a
disk, 1 in. in diameter, from a piece of
sheet insulation and drill a hole Hj in
the center of it. Also drill a similar
hole H;, in the center of the switch
base. Mount two pieces of copper or

241

brass, E and F, on the under side of
this disk. The edges and ends of all
six pieces of metal should be rounded
of? so that the pieces E and F will
move freely over those on the base.
The disk, or upper part of the switch,
may be attached to the base by means
of a small bolt placed through the holes
at the center. A small spiral spring
should be placed between the disk and
the lower end of this bolt so as to
keep the pieces of metal on the disk in
contact with those on the base. Attach
a small handle to the disk so that it
will extend out on one side of the
truck. Fix the switch into place by
bolts through the holes H^ and H,,
Fig. 14, on the bottom of the motor
frame. The electrical connections
should be made as shown in Fig. 15.

The detail of the couplers is shown
in Fig. 11. They are made of brass,
fitted to the upper crosspieces and
fixed to them by machine screws.
"Cowcatchers" may be made for the
ends of the locomotive. Sheet metal,
corrugated appropriately and bent to
the proper shape, will afford the easiest
method of making them. Those shown
in Figs. 1 and 2 are made of strips
soldered together, and also to the
upper crosspieces ; they are strength-
ened by a cross strip at the bottom,
opposite the point.

The cab is to be made apart from
the truck and is to fit upon the base,

and 9, and may be varied by the
builder.

Sheet metal or wood may be used

Fig. 14, View of the Under Side of the Motor,
Showing How Switch is Fixed into Place

as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. It is fixed
into place by four screws and can be
removed easily for examination of the
locomotive mechanism. The dimen-
ijions for the cab are shown in Figs. 8

Fig. 15, Diagrams of the Reversing of Motor by Shift-
ing Switch to Form Contact between Pairs of
Brass Sectors Set in the Fiber Switch Base

in the construction, and the joints sol-
dered on the inside or riveted, as shown
in the illustration. The window and
door openings may be cut out or
painted on. Small bells may be
mounted on the ends of the cab, adding
to its appearance. The headlights
shown in Figs. 1 and 2 may be cut
from wood or made of sheet metal.
Light bulbs may be installed, and their
voltage should correspond to that of
the motive energy. The terminals for
the sockets of the headlight lamps
should be connected to the frame of
the truck and to the spring, which
bears upon the brass collars on the
wheels, which are insulated from the
axles, as shown at A, Fig. 3.

This completes the locomotive in all
essential details and it is ready to be
placed upon the track to be tested. The
track system will be considered in a
subsequent article.

Mixing Paste

When flour paste becomes watery
upon cooling, it is evidence that the
mixture has been boiled too long. Only
the best flour should be used for mak-
ing paste. Many paper hangers do not
boil paste. They make a stiff batter
with lukewarm water, stirring out all
lumps, and then briskly stir in boiling
water. When the mass thickens con-
tinue stirring, but add no more hot
water. Pour a little cold water on top
and set the paste away to cool. — Con«
tributed by A. A. Kelly, Malvern, Pa.

243

A Hammock Sleeping Tent

Compactness in transportation and
general serviceableness are features of
the hammock tent shown in the illus-

A Comfortable Sleeping Tent is Provided by the
Arrangement Shown in the Sketch

tration. It is made by sewing a piece
of canvas to the sides of an ordinary
"dog" or shelter tent and may be made
of a piece of canvas or tarpaulin. The
tent is suspended by the ridge from a
heavy rope supported on trees or posts.
It is kept taut on the sides by tent
ropes attached to stakes driven in the
ground. This form of tent is particu-
larly convenient in providing a good
sleeping place in very small space. It
is free from dampness, and the camper
is provided with a comfortable rest free
from prowling animals, without the use
of a cot. — Daniel C. Duvall, Washing-
ton, D. C.

Broken Spade Handle Repaired with
Water Pipe

A garden spade, or fork, broken at
the handle may be repaired by joining
the broken ends with a piece of old
iron water pipe. The broken ends
should be trimmed carefully and driven
into the piece of pipe. In order to
make a more secure joint, holes may

be bored and countersunk at each end
of the pipe and screws fixed into them.
If the break is so close to the handle
that the latter is useless, a new one may
be made by fixing a pipe tee, with a
wooden rod as a handle, to the end of
the fork or spade. — George H. Holden,
Chesterfield, England.

Tilting Top for Camera Tripod

Pointing a camera up, or down, as
in photographing tall buildings with
the ordinary camera tripod, is awkward
and requires much time to make a sat-
isfactory adjustment. To overcome
this, a tilting top was made for the tri-
pod, as shown in the illustration. The
extra top consists of two boards hinged
at one end. The lower board has a
tripod socket to fit the tripod, while
the upper one has a tripod screw for
fastening the camera. Two metal
brackets are provided, having slots
through which binding screws are fit-
ted, and clamped with wing nuts. This
permits the camera to be tilted at vari-
ous angles, or reversed for vertical
pictures, without removing it from the
tripod. Several positions are suggested
and a little experimentation will give

The Homemade Tilting Top Is Convenient in Making
Photographs at a Variety of Angles

numerous other possible uses. Devices
of this character may be purchased, but
the one shown is easily made and
serves its purpose well. — R. C. Miller,
Pittsburgh, Pa.

OPERATION of the electric-loco-
motive model described in the
previous articles is feasible only witii
a properly constructed track system.
This equipment, including- curves and
switches, is to be described in this, the
final, article. Two functions are to be
performed by the track system : It must
serve as a support and guide for the
locomotive and provide a path over
which the current from the source of
energy is supplied to the motor within
the locomotive and returned to the
source. On this basis, then, the con-
struction may be divided into two
parts : the mechanical and the electrical
features. If the mechanical construc-
tion is not practical and accurate, the
locomotive will not operate satisfac-
torily. The electrical connections must
be given due care also.

The track should be of uniform
gauge ; the joints should be solid and
free from irregularities, which cause
"bumping" in passing over them. The
material used should be stifif, so that it
will retain its form, and preferably non-
rusting. The rails must be insulated
from each other, and proper means
must be provided for making suitable
electrical connections between the vari-
ous sections. The construction of a
straight and a curved section of track,
together with a switch and signal,
adaptable to various places on the sys-
tem, will be considered in detail.

The straight sections may be made
any suitable length ; sections 16 in. long

PART III — Construction of the Track
System

will be found convenient, as the metal
pieces forming the rails may be bent
into shape easily when they are short
rather than long. The possibility of
various combinations of straight and
curved sections in a given area is in-
creased by having the sections shorter.
The rails may be made from tinned
sheet-metal strips, by taking pieces, 16
in. long and ly^ in. wide, and bending
them into the form shown in Fig. 1.
The rails should be mounted on small
wooden sleepers, 1.4 by Y^ by 4 in., by
means of small nails, or preferably
small screws. The distance between
the centers of the rails should be 3 in.
The sections of track may be fastened
together at the ends by means of a spe-
cial connector, shown in Fig. 3, made
from thin metal, preferably spring
brass. The type of connector shown in
Fig. 2 will not prevent the sections
from pulling apart, and to prevent this,
a second connector, similar to that

..1

SECTION OF RAIL
Fio.l

RAIL CONNECTION
Fio.J

Shape the Rails from Sheet-Metal Strips, I'-i Inches

Wide and 16 Inches Long, to the Form Shown

in Fig. 1. The Rail Connections are

Formed as Shown in Fig. 2

shown in Fig. 3, should be made. The
sleepers at the ends of each section
should have one side beveled, as shown,
and these edges should be exactly one

243

inch from the end of the rails. A
spring chp should be made, similar to
that shown, which will slip down on

METHOD OF CONNECTING TRACK SECTIONS
ris.3

END CONNECTION
Fig. 5

OF RAILS

SECTION
RAIL
Fio.4

A Spring Clamp for the Joints in the Sections is

Shown in I^ig. 3. An Improved Form of Rail is

Shown in Fig. 4, and in Fig. 5 is Indicated

the Method of Joining Its Sections

the inside of the end sleepers and hold
the sections together.

A better form of rail is shown in
Figs. 3 and 4, but it is somewhat more
difficult to construct. In this case, in-
stead of bending the piece of metal
forming the rail over on itself and clos-
ing the space entirely, the metal is bent
over a round form, such as a piece of
wire, which may be removed, leaving
an opening through the upper part of
the rail from end to end. This gives a
better form to the tread of the rail and

METHOD OF LAYING OUT CUPVEO
■»"■' ^ ~ SECTION

LEFT SWITCH
Fro. 7

RIGHT SWITCH
Fio,8

Lay Out the Switches and Curves. Full Size, and
Fit the Rails to the Curves Accurately

at the same time provides an easy
means of connecting the ends of the
rails, as shown in Fig. 5. Small metal

pins, about 1 in. long, and of such a
diameter that they will just fit the cir-
cular opening in the top of the rail, are
provided. One of these pins should be
fastened in one rail at each end of a
section, making sure that no rail has
more than one pin in it, and that the
arrangement of pins and rails cor-
responds in all sections. With proper
care the various sections should fit to-
gether equally well, and they may be
held together as shown in Fig. 3.

The curved sections may be made
from rails similar to those described
above, but some difficulty will be ex-
perienced in bending them into a curve
because of the necessity of bending the
lower flange on edge. The difficulty
may be overcome by crimping in the
inner edge of the lower flange and ex-
panding the outer edge by hammering
it on a smooth surface. The radius of
the curve to which the inner rail should
be bent in order to give a section of
convenient length, and not too abrupt
a curve, is 21 in. The circumference
of such a circle is approximately 133
in., which, divided into eight sections,
gives 161/^ in. as the length of the inner
rail of each section. Since the tread of
the track is 2 in., the radius of the
curve of the outer rail will be 23 in.
The circumference of the circle formed
by the outer rail is 145 in., which di-
vided into eight sections gives 18% in.
as the length of the outer rail of each
section. These curved rails may be
mounted on sleepers, their ends being
held in place, and the various sections
fastened together, just as in the case of
the straight sections.

Some trouble may be experienced in
getting the curved rails properly
shaped, and it would be a good plan to
lay them out full size by drawing two
circles on a smooth surface having di-
ameters of 42 and 46 in., respectively,
and divide each of the latter into eight
equal parts. The form of the curve
between these division lines and the
lengths of the curves will correspond
to the shape apd lengths of the rails
forming the curved sections of the
track. The pieces should be cut
slightly longer than required, and after

245

they are bent into shape their length
can be determined precisely and extra
portions cut off. Each curved section
will correspond to % of the complete
circle, or 45°, as shown in Fig 6.

The switches for the track may be of
two kinds: left and right. They are
named according to whether the car is
carried to the left or right of the main
track with reference to the direction in
which the car moves in entering the
switch. A left switch is shown in Fig.
7, and a right switch in Fig. 8, the di-
rection of movement being indicated
by the arrows.

A detailed drawing of a right switch
is shown in Fig. 9. Rail A corresponds
in form
and length
to the
outer rail
of o n e of
the curved
sections
previously
described ;
rail B cor-
responds
to the in-
ner rail of
one of the
curved
sections,
except
that 21/0 in.
of straight

DETAILS OF

F10.9

The Crossings of the Rails must be Fitted Carefully, and the Movable
Sections G and H Arranged to Make the Proper Contacts

over against the rail C, the end of the
piece H is drawn away from the rail B
about %6 ill- With these two combina-
tions the car may be made to move
along the main track or to the right on
the curved track. The two long sleep-
ers J and K are to provide a mounting
for the switch-control lever and signal.
The rail A is not continuous where
the rail D crosses it, but is broken as
shown in the figure. A small notch
should be cut in the surface of the rail
D where it crosses the rail A, for the
flange of the car wheels to roll through
when the car is moving onto or off the
switch. The sections of the rails A and
D must be connected electrically. Rail

A must be
connected
to rail C,
and rail B
to rail D.
It is ob-
vious from
an inspec-
t i o n of
F i g. 9, at
L, that
rail D will
be con-
nected to
rail A
when the
car is on
theswitch,
the car

SWITCH

rail is added at the left end. Rail
C is a straight portion of rail, 18
in. in length, with a part of the base
cut away at the switch, and rail D is a
section of straight rail, IS^/o in. in
length, with the base cut away where
it crosses rail A. The ends of rails D
and A are hinged at the points E and
F, 3% in. from the left end, with pins
driven into the ties. The outside edges
of the pieces G and H are filed off so
they will fit up against the rails C and
B respectively. Both the pieces G and
H are attached to a strip of fiber insu-
lating material, I, at their left-hand
ends, in such a way that when the piece
H is against the rail B, the piece G is
away from the rail C about -^r in.;
when the end of the piece G is drawn

wheels passing over the point L, and a
short circuit will result. This may be
prevented by insulating the short sec-
tion of the rail D at this point from the
remainder of the rail, but the length
of the insulated section must not be
greater than the distance between the
wheels on one side of the car; other-
wise the circuit through the motor
would be broken. If this is the case,
and the car stops on the main track
with both wheels on the insulated sec-
tion, it would be impossible to start the
locomotive until one wheel was moved
to a live part of the rail.

The switch control is shown in Fig.
]0, and the letters C, G, and I corre-
spond to those given in Fig. 9. A
%-in. rod, about 4 in. in length, is bent

246

into the form shown at AI. It is
mounted in a frame, the details of
which are shown in Fig. 11. A small
arm, N, with a hinged handle, O, is

SWITCH CONTROL
Fig. 10

TOP VIEW
SWITCH FRAME

The Signals Indicate the Open or Closed Condition

of the Switch by the Small Disk. Which is

Regulated by the Lever Switch Control

soldered to the rod, after it is placed in
position in the switch frame. The arm
N and the lever P should be parallel
with each other. If properly con-
structed, the handle O will drop into
the notches in the top of the switch
frame, and prevent the rod M from
turning. A connection should be made
from the lever P to the end of the piece
I, which will result in the switch being
operated when the rod M is rotated
one-fourth of a turn. After this con-
nection is made, the frame of the
switch should be fastened to the ends
of the long sleepers, which were pro-
vided when the track part of the switch
was constructed. Two small disks,
mounted at right angles to each other,
will serve as signals when properly
painted, or as an indication of the open
or closed position of the switch.

The speed of
the car on the
track may be
controlled by in-
serting resist-
ance in series
with the battery
or source of elec-
trical energy, or
by altering the
value of the voltage between the rails,
by changing the connections of the
cells forming the battery. The direc-
tion of movement of the locomotive
cannot be changed unless the car is

turned end for end, or the connections
of the armature or field winding — not
both — are reversed. The switch on the
bottom of the locomotive reverses these
connections.

A small rheostat, which will give the
desired resistance, may be constructed
as follows: Obtain a piece of hard
wood, -4 by 5 in., and "s in. in thickness.
Lay out a curve on this piece, as shown
in Fig. 13 by the row of small circles.
Procure eight round-headed brass ma-
chine screws, about Ys in. in diameter
and ^ in. in lengfth, and 16 nuts to fit
them. Drill eight %-in. holes along
the curve, spacing them % in. apart.
File the heads of the screws off flat and
mount the screws in these holes.
Alake a metal arm, S, and mount it on
a small bolt passing through a hole
drilled at the center from which the
curve was drawn, along which the
screws were mounted. This arm
should be of such a length that its outer
end will move over the heads of the
screws. Mount two binding posts, Q
and R, in the upper corners of the
board and connect R to screw No. 8,
and O to the bolt holding the arm S in
place. Connect small resistance coils
between the screws, starting with
screw No. 2 ; screw No. 1 corresponds
to an open circuit and is shown in con-
tact with the arm S. Two stops, indi-
cated by the black spots, should be
provided, to prevent the arm from
moving back of screw No. 1 or beyond
screw No. 8. The board may now be
mounted on a suitable hollow base, and
the rheostat is complete.

Two binding posts should be
mounted on the ties of one section of
the track, and one of them electrically
connected to each of the two rails,
which will give an easy means of mak-
ing the necessary electrical connections
to the source of energy. After careful
examination, to make certain that the
locomotive is in running order, a test
run may be made. If the locomotive
operates properly and difficulty is expe-
rienced when it is placed upon the
track, check up thoroughly on all rail
connections, insulations, and other
elements in the electrical equipment.

247

Cars of a proper gauge may be coupled
to the locomotive, and "runs" made as
extensively as the track system will
permit.

Sleeve Aids in Distinguishing Gas-
Fixture Chains

Annoyance through inability to lo-
cate quickly the proper chain for light-
ing a gas lamp in
the dark was
overcome by fit-
ting a small
brass tube to one
of the chains as
shown in the il-
lustration. The
tube was sol-
dered to the
chain by which
the light is
turned on and
the other chain passes through the
tube and is grasped below it. To turn
on the light, it is only necessary to
slide the hand along both chains and
to grip the tube, drawing on the chain
attached to it. To turn the light off,
the exposed end of the other chain is
drawn. — Thomas W. Benson, Hastings
upon Hudson, N. Y.

An Ornamental Horn Match Holder

A match holder made of the horn
shell of cattle hoofs mounted on a
wooden shield,
as shown in the
sketch, is both
"ornamental and
useful. One of
the pockets
holds the unused
matches and the
other the burnt
ones. The hoofs were cleaned thor-
oughly and polished and the edge of
the shield was beveled off and var-
nished in the natural color of the wood.
The front was lacquered black and also
varnished.

Driving Thin Metal into Wood

A slender piece of flat, or round,
metal may be driven into a wood
handle with- uv^or^ ljakipm r

^1 1 • *U METAL-^ r^'^^°°'-' HANDLE

out breakmg the mi^ial-i ^

wood or bending

the metal, if it is

placed in a vise

and the wood

part driven onto

the small portion

projecting from

the jaws of the

vise. Repeat the

operation until the metal is driven far

enough into the wood.

Slicing Board for Camp or Kitchen

The board illustrated was suggested
by a device used by a "sandwich man,"
and proved prac-
tical for use in
the home and es-
pecially in the
camp. Potatoes,
or other articles
of food to be
sliced, are placed in the hollow portion
of the board and moved against the
edge at the right, under the knife.
The guide, which may be adjusted by
means of the wing nut, permits slices
of varying thickness to be cut. —
Robert C. Knox, St. Petersburg, Fla.

CA small flat piece of wood is con-
venient for pointing up an eraser.

Cleanly Pencil Sharpener

Pencils may be pointed without
spreading the dust from them by the
use of the device
shown in the
illustration. A
piece of emery
paper is fixed to
one side of the
cover of the box.
By turning over
the cover with a
handle, after a pencil has been pointed,
the dust may be dropped into the box
and removed from time to time. —
Sidney Block, Detroit, Mich.

248

A Weeding Tool

A handy weeding tool may be made
of an old case knife — one of the kind
having a wood handle is the best. Re-
move the handle sides and heat the
blade about 1 in. from the end, then
bend it at right angles as shown at A.
Ream out the rivet holes in the handle
large enough to allow screws, about 1
in. in size, to enter. Procure an old
broom handle and saw a slot in one

board, and placed a stick in the vise
as shown. When the vise screw was

A Case-Knife Blade Bent and Fastened in a Broom
Handle Makes an Excellent Weeding Tool

end deep enough to receive the knife
shank, and fasten it with screws, as
shown at B. This makes an excellent
tool for removing weeds from beds of
young radish, lettuce and other plants,
as it is possible to get close to the
plant stem without injuring it. — Con-
tributed by L. G. Burnand, Lyons,
Iowa.

Spray Nozzle Made of Acetylene
Burner

An acetylene burner makes a first-
class spray nozzle, even though the
lava tips are
broken off level
with the metal.
The burner may
be secured on a
short piece of
pipe, as at A,
and this inserted
. g in a hose, or it

may be pushed
into a hose and wound with wire, as
shown at B.

Clamping a Wide Board on a Bench

Having occasion to cut a groove on
the surface of a board too wide for the
vise, I rigged up the arrangement
shown to hold it. The board was laid
on the bench with the edge slightly
projecting, then I nailed a block firmly
to the bench, close to the edge of the

A Block on the Bench and a Stick in the Vise Served
as Jaws of a Wide Opening

turned up, the board was gripped sol-
idly.— Contributed by S. H. Bosus-
ton, Victoria, B. C.

Feeding Pan for Poultry

An excellent water or feeding pan
for small chicks can be made of con-
crete. Take an old pan and place it
in an inverted position in a shallow

An Ordinary Pan Placed in a Shallow Box
Makes the Form for a Concrete Vessel

box, as shown in the sketch, then mix
the concrete and pour it over the pan.
AX^ien the cement sets, turn it over
and a pan will be had that small chicks
can climb out of, should they get
into it.

Metal Floor Corners

The hardest part of a room or stair-
way to clean is the corners, and these
always collect a good quantity of dirt.
Instead of re-
moving the dirt
each time, a bet-
ter plan is to fix
the corner as
shown in the il-
lustration. A tri-
angular piece of brass or copper. 2 in.
on each side, is fastened into the cor-
ner with one nail through the center.
These metal pieces are especially de-
sirable in public buildings. — Contrib-
uted by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dart-
mouth, Mass.

Measuring Resistance with a Lead Pencil

By JOHN D. ADAMS

THERE are very few electrical ex-
perimenters who can afford a
Wheatstone bridge for measuring-
resistances, and yet, if one is to gain
any knowledge from his experiments,
it is very necessary to know what re-
sistance is being used, particularly in
handling 110 volts. The amateur will
find the following method very useful.
There are several brands of lead pen-
cils, the leads of which have a resis-
tance of 200 to 300 ohms, while others
have comparatively little resistance.
Soak several pencils — preferably the
large kind carpenters use — in water
over night so that the leads may be
removed without breaking. Connect
up two 40-watt lamps in series and
note how they burn. Then replace one
lamp with a lead and note the relative
intensity with which the remaining
lamp burns. If the lead is of a suffi-
ciently high resistance it will cut down
the illumination about as much as the
additional lamp.

Having selected a lead, mount it on
a suitable board, holding it in place
by clamping each end under a strip
of brass held down with wood screws.
Next screw in place two porcelain re-
ceptacles and place three binding posts
in position, all as shown in the sketch.
Connect up as indicated, and attach a
short length of flexible cord, with a
metal tip on the free end, to one ter-
minal of the central receptacle. Pro-
cure a cheap 75-ohm receiver and con-
nect it to the two ends of the pencil
lead. Finally glue on a paper scale.

To operate, place a high-resistance
lamp in the center receptacle — say, a
15-watt lamp — to prevent heating, and
almost any lamp of known wattage in
the other receptacle. From the rating

of this lamp the resistance may at once
be determined by Ohm's law. Thus,
at 110 volts, a 25-watt lamp will have
a resistance of 484 ohms; a 40-watt

75. OHM RECEIVER-

„ LINE-
UNKNOWN RESISTANCE
The Lead Taken from a Lead Pencil and Used as a
Means of Measuring Resistance

lamp 300 ohms, and a 60-watt lamp,
200 ohms. Connect the unknown re-
sistance, as shown in the drawing, and
move the metal tip on the end of the
flexible cord back and forth along the
pencil lead until a point is reached
where no sound is emitted by the re-
ceiver. This point will be very well
defined, and as the connection is
moved away from it in either direc-
tion the sound will increase rap-
idly. Note the reading on the
scale, and then if a 40-watt lamp
is used in the end receptacle, the

•ti u 300 A
unknown resistance will be = — g — .

The resistance of the center lamp does
not enter into the computation, but by
changing the lamp in the end recepta-
cle, another set of figures may be ob-
tained, and a means had to secure
increased accuracy.

249

250

A Simple Motor Controller

The controller described is very sim-
ilar in operation to the types of con-
trollers used on electric automobiles,
and its operation may be easily fol-
lowed by reference to the diagram-
matic representation of its circuits, and

Q P

Fie. I

Diagram of the Electrical Connections of a
Controller to a Two-Pole Series Motor

those of a two-pole series motor to
which it is connected, as shown in Fig.
1. The controller consists of six flat
springs, represented as small circles
and lettered A, B, C, D, E, and F,
which make contact with pieces of nar-
row sheet brass mounted on a small
wood cylinder, so arranged that it may
be turned by means of a small handle
located on top of the controller case
in either direction from a point called
neutral, which is marked N. W'hen the
cylinder of the controller is in the neu-
tral position, all six contact springs are
free from contact with any metal on
the cylinder. The contacts around the
cylinder in the six different horizontal
positions are lettered G, H, J, K, L, and
M. There are three difierent positions
of the controller in either direction
from the neutral point. Moving the
cylinder in one direction will cause
the armature of the motor to rotate in
a certain direction at three different
speeds, while moving the cylinder in a
reverse direction will cause the arma-
ture to rotate in the opposite direction

at three diiTerent speeds, depending
upon the exact position of the cylin-
der. These positions are designated by
the letters O, P, and O, for one way,
and R, S, and T, for the other.

Supposing the C3^1inder to be rotated
to the position marked O, the circuit
may be traced from the positive termi-
nal of the battery U, as follows : To
contact spring E, to strip of brass L, to
strip of brass M, to contact spring F,
through the field windings VV, to con-
tact spring D, to strip of brass K, to
strip of brass J, to contact spring C,
through resistance W and Y, to arma-
ture Z, through armature to the nega-
tive terminal of the battery. Moving
the cylinder to the position P merely
cuts out the resistance W, and to the
position Q, cuts out the remaining re-
sistance Y. The direction of the cur-
rent through the armature and series
field, for all positions of the cylinder
to the left, is indicated by the full-line
arrows. Moving the controller to the
positions marked R, S, and T, will re-
sult in the same changes in circuit con-
nections, as in the previous case, except
the direction of the current in the series
field windings will be reversed.

The construction of the controller
may be carried out as follows : Obtain
a cylindrical piece of wood, 1% in. in
diameter and Sy^ in. long, preferably

Upper-End View of the Controller, Showing the
Manner of Attaching the Springs

hard wood. Turn one end of this cylin-
der down to a diameter of y^ in., and
drill a i/4-in. hole through its center
from end to end. Divide the circum-

251

ference of the small-diameter portion
into eight equal parts and drive a small
nail into the cylinder at each division
point, the nail being placed in the cen-
ter of the surface lengthwise and per-
pendicular to the axis of the cylinder.
Cut off all the nail heads so that the
outer ends of the nails extend even
with the surface of the outer, or large-
size, cylinder. Divide the large part
into eight equal parts so that the divi-
sion points will be midway between the
ends of the nails, and draw lines the
full length of the cylinder on these
points. Divide the cylinder length-
wise into seven equal parts and draw a
line around it at each division point.
Cut some %-in. strips from thin sheet
brass and mount them on the cylinder
to correspond to those shown in Fig.
1. Any one of the vertical division
lines drawn on the cylinder may be
taken as the neutral point. The pieces
may be mounted by bending the ends
over and sharpening them so that they
can be driven into the wood. The vari-
ous strips of brass should be connected
electrically, as shown by the heav}'
lines in Fig. 1, but these connections
must all be made so that they will not
extend beyond the outer surface of the
strips of brass.

A small rectangular frame is made,
and the cylinder is mounted in a ver-
tical position in it by means of a rod
passing down through a hole in the top
of the rectangle, through the hole in
the cylinder and partly through the
bottom of the rectangle. The upper
part of the rod may be bent so as to
form a handle. The rod must be fast-
ened to the cylinder in some conven-
ient way.

Make six flat springs similar to the
one shown at A, Fig. 2, and mount
them on the inside of the rectangle so
that they will correspond in their ver-
tical positions to the strips of brass on
the cylinder. Six small binding posts
mounted on the outside of the box and
connected to these springs serve to
make the external connections, and
they should be marked so that they
may be easily identified.

A flat spring, 14 in. wide, is made

similar to the one shown at B, Fig. 2.
Mount this spring on the inside of the
rectangle so it will mesh with the ends
of the nails in the small part of the
cylinder. The action of this spring is
to make the cylinder stop at definite
positions. The top of the case should
be marked so that the position of the
handle will indicate the position of the
cylinder. Stops should also be pro-
vided so that the cylinder case cannot
be turned all the way around.

"^r=

^X3

Miniature Push Buttons

A very neat and workmanlike push
button may be made in the following
manner: Procure an unused tan-shoe
eyelet with an
opening about
^16 in. in diam-
eter, and at the
proper point drill a hole into the board
in which the button is to be set. Force
the eyelet in flush, using a little shellac
to hold it in tightly. For the button
proper, polish off and round one end
of a piece of brass rod of a diameter
that will move freely up and down in
the eyelet. Solder a small piece of
sheet brass across the lower end to
keep it from coming out, then adjust
and fasten on the two contact pieces,
all as indicated in the sketch. The
larger piece should be quite springy
so as to bring the button back each
time. The connections may be made
by slipping the wires under the heads
of the two wood screws that hold the
contact pieces in place.

As every experimenter knows, it is
almost impossible to drill a hole in the
varnished base of an instrument with-
out leaving a raw edge. Under such
circumstances, when it is desired to
make an opening for conducting cords,
and the like, simply drill a hole with
an ordinary drill and then set in a
small shoe eyelet, which immediately
presents a very finished appearance.

CVaseline, with a little powdered gum
camphor added and heated over a slow
fire, makes an excellent rust preventive
for tools.

352

A Quickly Made Toy Electric Motor

The illustration shows a small elec-
tric motor of such simple construction
that it can be easily made from odds
and ends to be found in any amateur

FLATS FILED ON SHAFT
C

The Motor is Constructed of Pieces of Tin, a Nail,
and Some Wood Blocks

workshop. Cut six strips, 1/2 in- wide
and 314 in. long, from an old tin can,
and bend them together into a U-shape.
This forms the magnet A. The out-
side piece should be a trifle longer than
the others so that its ends can be
turned over the other ends to keep
them all in place. Screw this down on
a small wood base. At one side of the
wood base, fix an upright, B, and on
top, a light wood bracket, C, to take
the upper bearing of the motor. The
shaft D is simply a wire nail with the
head filed off and filed to a point.
Drive it through a li/^-in- length of the
same kind of material as used for the
magnet. This forms the rotating ar-
mature E.

Make a slight indentation with a
center punch, or strong nail, exactly in
the center of the base portion of the
magnet to lake the lower end of the
shaft. For the upper bearing file the
end of a brass screw ofif flat and make
a similar indentation with a center
punch, or by a few turns of a small
drill. This screw should be adjusted
in the bracket until the shaft rotates
freely with the armature just clearing

the tips of the magnet. Wind about 40
turns of fairly thin cotton-covered cop-
per wire — No. 24 or 26 gauge is suit-
able— around each limb of the magnet,
first covering the latter with paper, to
prevent the possibility of short-circuit-
ing. The windings should be in oppo-
site directions so that the connecting
piece of the wire from one coil to the
other passes across diagonally as shown
in the illustration.

The brush F is formed by doubling
up one of the free ends of the windings
after removing the cotton covering and
fixing it firmly with two screws to the
side of the upright. After attaching, it
should be bent until the outer end bears
lightly on the shaft. Remove the shaft
and at the point where the brush
touched, file two flat surfaces on oppo-
site sides of the nail in a direction at
right angles to the longitudinal center
line of the armature. On replacing the
shaft the brush should be adjusted so
that it makes contact twice in a revolu-
tion and remains clear at the flat por-
tions. Connect up to a battery, one
wire to the screw at the top of the mo-
tor and the other end to the open end
of the windings. Give the armature a
start and it will run at a terrific speed.
— Contributed by Morris G. Miller,
New Rochelle, N. Y.

Gauge for Woodwork

A convenient gauge can be quickly
made by using a block of wood and an
ordinary nail, or
several nails for
diflferent widths
can be placed in
one block. Drive
the nails straight
into the block
until the distance
between the
head and block is
the required
distance to be
gauged. The rim
of the nail head makes the mark as
the block is drawn over the wood sur-
face.— Contributed by E. P. Halde-
man, Balboa, Canal Zone.

A Homemade Ammeter

By JOHN D. ADAMS

WHERE a high degree of accuracy-
is neither desired nor necessary,
a very satisfactory ammeter may be
made at the cost of a few cents, and
without using hairsprings, permanent
magnets, or other articles usually not
at hand.

The actuating device consists of a
small coil of coarse, insulated wire,
with a bundle of soft-iron wires for
a core, which attracts a curved, soft-
iron, wedge-shaped armature. The
moving system is so balanced that the
armature will hang as illustrated when
no current is passing. On account of
its shape, the higher the armature rises,
the more iron it presents to the in-
fluence of the magnet, and, on the other
hand, the greater will be the effect of
gravity. The advantage of this type
of control is the elimination of the ir-
regular readings of the scale, due to the
law of inverse squares, that usually
follow when any method depending
upon a variable distance is used.
Further, the readings can be had as de-
sired by altering the taper of the arma-
ture, its thickness, or its distance from
the magnet, and also by adding a small
weight of nonmagnetic material at the
bottom. As most commercial circuits
supply alternating current, the friction
of the bearings does not affect the read-
ings, since the alternations set up a de-
cided vibration in the entire moving
system, thus eliminating static friction.

In view of the variations above re-
ferred to, it will be evident that it is
not very essential of what dimensions
the apparatus is made. The instru-
ment that I use has a base measuring
2% in. by 5 in. The coil is built on a
tube of glued paper, and contains about
15 ft. of No. 16 gauge wire. The

terminals consist of the brass bolts
taken from discarded dry cells. A steel
sewing needle serves as a shaft, and a
piece of wire for the pointer. The

A Very Satisfactory Ammeter for Use Where Accuracy
is Not Desired or Necessary

various joints are made with soft
solder, and suitable stops are provided
to keep the armature from shifting
laterally. In calibrating, a blank scale
should be glued in position and as
many 55-watt lamps as possible ar-
ranged so that they can be placed in
the circuit, one at a time. On a 110-
volt line, each lamp added will mark a
half-ampere point. If a sufficient num-
ber of lamps to carry the scale high
enough cannot be secured temporarily,
a resistance of some 20 or 30 ohms
should be placed in the circuit with-
out any lamps. Note the reading in
amperes on the scale thus far con-
structed, and then begin adding the
lamps again, making a mark on the
scale as each lamp is added. In this
manner a scale may be built up suffi-
ciently accurate for all practical pur-
poses.

If two identical coils are made in

253

254

place of one, the additional coil can be
placed in parallel with the instru-
ment as a shunt, thus doubling its
capacity and making it necessary, of
course, to multiply all readings by two.

Footstool

The material necessary for the foot-
stool shown in the illustration is as
follows :

2 end pieces, 1 by 10 by 15 in.

3 cross braces, 1 by 4 by 12 in.
2 end braces, J^ by 4 by 8 in.

1 top board, 'A by 10 by 14 in.
1 piece of leather, 11 l.>y lr> in.
Kound-head wood screws and nails.

The two end pieces should be
marked to a suitable pattern, and may
be cut out with a scroll or coping
saw, or, if these are not available, with
a keyhole saw. The center opening
should first be bored at one end and
then cut out with the saw. The three
long braces should be accurately
squared and finished at the ends ; the
rigidity of the stool depending on this
work. The seat consists of a box
form with the open side down. The
top is a i/o-in. board, 8 in. wide by 12
in. long; the sides are formed by two
of the long braces, and the ends are
the short braces. This box is securely
put together with nails, and then
screwed in position with round-head

wood screws so as to be flush with the
top edge of the end pieces. The lower
brace is secured in place with screws.
In putting on the leather top, i/o in.
should be turned under at each end,
and lYo in. brought down on each side.
This will provide sufficient looseness
to pad the seat properly. Large
round-headed brass nails can be used,
producing a neat appearance. The
stool is then ready for a suitable stain
or finish. — Contributed by Stanley B.
Furbeck.

Stopper for a Bunghole

While we were filling our barrels at
the cider mill it was discovered that one
barrel had no stopper. This did not
bother the cider-mill man, who took up
a sound apple of about the dimensions
or diameter of the bunghole and
squeezed it in, tight as a cork, then
shaved it ofif flush with the barrel
staves. We started home and rolled it
around a great deal with the other bar-
rels, yet it held as tightly as any wood
stopper, — Contributed by A. A. Kelly,
Frazer, Pa.

CAn open umbrella placed on the floor
upside down makes an excellent re>-
ceptacle for catching dirt and plaster-
ing when installing electric fixtures.

Footstool in Mission Finish
with a Leather Top

A Woven-Reed Footstool

By CHARLES M. MILLER

[The various materials referred to in this article by number or size were described in detail in
an article on *'A Reed Basket/* in the Boy Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.]

REED furniture has become very
popular within the last few years,
and the newer designs and methods
have been so attractive as to place this
constructive effort among the handi-
craft series of modern art. It is pos-
sible so to analyze, simplify, and illus-
trate this work as to make it feasible
for amateurs, and at the same time
there are possibilities which involve
problems that may try the ability of
the skilled workman. In other words,
there are possibilities of progress in
this kind of furniture making. There
are places where careful weaving is the
princiind aim; again particular atten-
tion will be given to corners, or, per-
haps, a nicety of modeling will be found
necessary t o
bring out the

proper curves — - - ■

involved.

Each ])iece
of reed furni-
ture h a s a
framework,
u s u a 1 1 y of
dowels, but it
may also b e
made of boards
in such models
as small tables,
dressers, bed-
steads, chests,
etc. The board

construction is more often covered with
flat reed. In footstools there are both
kinds of framework. The illustrations
show the same parts marked with the
same letters throughout the series of
sketches.

The framework of the stool is shown
in Fig. 1, in which the rails and posts
are made of dowels, % in. in diameter,
and the braces of dowels, % in. in
diameter. It will be noticed that the
posts extend to the top of the frame
for strength in this manner of construc-
tion. If the rails rested on top of the
post S, the nails would have to be
driven into the end grain of the wood,
which makes the strength depend en-

%^.

~^^S:~

tirely on the holding power of the nail
in this position, as there is no binding of
the upper part to the posts in the weav-
ing. With the post extending to the
top, the nail passes through the upper
part of the post and into the end grain
of the rails, and the rails are bound to-
gether horizontally by the weaving.

The material for the frame consists
of the following dowel stock: two
pieces for rails, % in. by 14 in. long;
two pieces for rails, % in- by 9 in. long ;
four posts, % in. by 7 in. long, and two
braces, % in. by 17 in. long. These
jjieces are shown in Fig. 2. If notches
are cut with a small saw, a coping saw
preferred, in the ends of each rail and
in the braces, as shown in Fig. 3, they

will fit to the
^-^-Tr--^.._ posts better

and make a
stronger joint.
While differ-
ent makers
use a finishing
nail ; a barbed
or corrugated,
nail; or a ce-
m e n t e d, or
glue- coated,
nail, I find the
best to be an
ordinary
4-penny nail,
which answers
the purpose well. Do not drive tlie nail
through the posts without first drilling
a hole with a YiQ-in. drill. A small
hand or breast drill will be needed for
this work.

Before nailing the frame together,
the holes for the spokes in weaving
should be drilled in the rails. The
spokes may be No. 4 and the weavers
No. 3 reed. The No. 4 reed requires a
i/e-in. hole. The hole for the top and
end side spokes may be combined, as
shown in Fig. 4. The dotted lines
show the vertical and horizontal diam-
eters, and E the outside and F the in-
side of the rail, one hole being repre-
sented as sawed in two. The spokes

The Framework of the Stool
is Made of Large Dowels,
Then Covered with Windings
of Reed and a Woven Reed
Top and Apron

255

256

for the top extend down and out at the
ends, and each may be of one piece, 32
in. long. As there are no spokes at the
top extending to the side pieces, short
spokes must be inserted at the right
time for the side weaving. The loca-
tion of the holes in the side rails is
shown in Fig. 2. The holes in the side
rails may be drilled straight in the
wood.

The pieces may now be nailed to-
gether to form the frame, as sliown in
Fig. 1. If the top of the side rails A
are set about ^ic in. below the tops of
the posts, the weaving will be almost
level, as the winding reed is thinner
than the round reed. The braces D are
halved at the center, on a slant, to
bring their upper surfaces on a level
when they are in place. The length of
17 in., as given in the material list, is
not accurate, as sufficient length is
given to allow the ends to be cut, in
fitting them in place after the frame is
assembled. The posts should stand
vertical and square. Try the braces be-
fore nailing them in place, to see that
they do not draw the frame out of
shape.

The first operation in weaving is to
cover the tops of the four posts, which
is started as shown in Fig. 5. A short
piece of winding reed, G, is first tacked
in place. A round reed can be split
if one is careful, in case winding reed
cannot be obtained. Tacks used by
shoemakers are just the thing for fas-
tening these weavings in place. After
fastening the weaving G in place, an-
other, H, is put on in an opposite direc-
tion, whereupon J is fastened on the
same as G, and so on, until the post is
covered, as shown in Fig. 6. Perhaps
a better way to cover the posts would
be to tack all eight pieces on the post
part C, and then weave them down to-
gether. It may not be necessary to
tack them all on the rails.

After the comers are all covered, the
end rails B are wound with the wind-
ing reed, the start being shown in Fig.
7, where the frame is shown in an in-
verted position. The reed is tacked, at
K, to the side rail, and whenever the
winding comes to a hole, a pencil mark

is made to locate the hole later. This
mark is shown at L. When the two
end rails are wound, push a bodkin, or
other steel point, in between the wind-
ings where the marks are located, to
make way for the insertion of the
spokes. It may appear to an observer
that the spokes could be put in before
the winding, but the winding cannot be
properly done after the spokes have
been inserted, as the windings would
separate too much around them. The
hole must be opened up through to the
opposite side of the rail. Single spokes
go through the rail, and they are only
put through one end rail at first, as the
weaving is much easier with one end
of the spokes free, but, of course, they
must be inserted in the other end be-
fore the weaving gets within 2 or 3 in.
of that end. An extra spoke is inserted
beside each spoke, as the weaving pro-
ceeds and after a strip has been woven
% in. wide. These short spokes are cut
just long enough to fit in between the
end rails. The weaving is done with
a single weaver, and it is passed over
and under double spokes as if they
were one. When the weaver comes to
the side rail, it is wound twice around
the rail, to take up the space for the
two strands across. If the weaver does
not go twice around the side rails each
time, either the weaving will take a
curve or the side winding will be loose.
The starting of the weaving is shown
in Fig. 8, where the extra spokes are
inserted along the side of each spoke
that runs through the end rails.

After the spokes have been inserted
in the opposite end rail and tlie weav-
ing in the top completed, the braces
and posts should be wound. Where
the braces D connect to the posts C,
three strips of the winding reed are
passed around the post and tacked on
both sides of the braces, as shown at
M, Fig. 9. A\'here the braces cross,
the winding passes around both pieces
for a short distance, as shown at N. It
is quite appropriate to use the brass
caps O on this model, but on many
stools their use has been discontinued
and the winding continues down to
within Ys in. of the bottom of the post.

257

C-

In case the brass cap cannot be ob-
tained, the windhig may be used also
on this model.

The side weaving- is called the apron,
and in this case the pairing weave is
used. The short spokes will have to
be inserted in the under side of the side
rails, and the extra spokes are added
after the weaving is started and a small
strip woven. The pairing weave is
shown in Figs. 10, 11, and 13. The two
weavers are represented by the letters
P and Q. The weaver P passes back
of spoke T and out between T and U.
The weaver Q is then used in the same
manner, and so on, around the stool.
When the post is approached the
weaver that comes out between the
last spoke and the post is passed around
the post and in behind the next spoke
on the other side. It will be seen in
the pairing wea\e that the weaver be-
hind is always thrown o\er the other
weaver. This gives the appearance of
a rope twist to the weaving, and also

Details of the Dowel Pieces, Showing
Dimensions for Drilling the Holes to Admit
the Spokes of Reed, Manner of Building the
Framework, and How the Top is Woven

cinches it to the spokes and prevents
slipping. Always pass the one weaver
around the post twice to take up the
space for the one that cuts across the
corner. The weaving of the sides or
apron is done with the object turned
upside down, where it is in a good posi-
tion for finishing off, which is some-
times called breaking down.

If the weaving has been carried far
enough, the extra spokes are cut ofif
even with the weaving, and the break-
ing down may be done as follows : The
spoke R, Fig. 13, is shown turned down
back of the spoke S. and S back of T
and out. The spoke R, as shown in
Fig. 14, is back of S, in front of T,
back of U, and out l:>etween U and V,
but as R is brought out, the spoke T
is brought down back and parallel with
R. Likewise the spoke S passes back
of V, and U is brought down with it.
The spoke T is brought back of W and
V is brought down back of it. The
short end of R is inserted under the

258

roll, between the roll and the weaving, more workable, the wet reed, held in
and is left extending on the inside. If place until dry, stays curved in the

RSTU RSTUVW RSTUVWXYZ

Fig. 12 f,g 13

The Weaving of the Apron is Done in the

Fi«.l4

Same Manner as in Making a Basket, with
the Break Down to Form the Edge

it is too long, it can be cut off close to
the inside of the weaving. In Fig. 15,
all the short ends are shown brought
through to the back as far as the weav-
ing is illustrated. At the corners, the
posts are used as spokes. To finish the
roll, the spokes will have to be inserted
through the roll, to correspond with the
rest of it : hence, the beginning of the
roll should be left loose, as in Fig. 13.
In weaving, the weavers should be
kept wet, but not the spokes. Do not
put the reed in water and leave it for
any length of time, as it will become
discolored. About 15 minutes will be
sufficient to make the reed pliable, then
it is best to have a sponge and bucket
of water at hand, to dampen long
weavers frequently by drawing the reed
across the wet sponge. Besides being

form woven much better. Some work-
men leave the reed in water for a long
time and depend on bleaching to
whiten it, but so much of the bleached
work looks like a poor job of painting
that it is much better to keep it white
from the start. In case bleaching is
found necessary, a little chloride of
lime in water makes a good bleacher.
Avoid making the solution too strong.
It should be put on with a brush, so
as to get it into the interstices of the
weaving, whereupon the work is placed
in the sunshine to dry.

Any kind of reed used will have some
of the small hairlike fibers sticking out
after the weaving is complete, and this
should be singed off with a gas flame.
A blowtorch is good for this purpose.
Be careful not to scorch the weaving.

A Homemade Ellipsograph

By J. A. SHELLY

The instrument illustrated was de-
signed to take the place of the two
nails and a piece of string for drawing
ellipses of different sizes. It is made
of hard wood, preferably maple or
beech, and consists of a bar with one
fixed and one sliding head, the latter
having a wedge clamp to hold it at
any point desired on the bar.

In the ends of the heads are driven
two coarse needles that have been
broken off about % in. from the eye

end. These ends should be placed Yg
in. from the inside of each head and
the same distance from the bottom, and
driven in until the eyes are each i/g in.
from the surface. A piece of linen
thread is run through the eye of the
needle that is in the end of the sliding
head and knotted to prevent its pulling
out, and the free end is run through
the needle eye on the fixed head. The
thumb tack in the fixed head is to se-
cure the free end of the thread. The

359

tack is driven in at an angle so that
one edge sticks up enough to allow the
thread to be pulled under it.

To operate the ellipsograph lay out
the length of the major axis on a cen-
ter line, then bisect the distance be-
tween these points and erect a per-
pendicular. On this line lay off half
the minor axis, measuring from the cen-
ter line ; then from this point locate
the foci by setting the dividers to half
the major axis and scribing arcs of
circles to cut the center line. Set the
heads of the instrument so that the pro-
jecting needle ends will be the same
distance apart as the foci, and clamp
the sliding head with the wedge. Set
the instrument so that the needle eyes
will be exactly over the points where
the foci are on the center line. A pen-
cil, with a little groove filed Vs in.
from the point, -for the thread to run
in, is set to half the minor axis and the
thread is pulled taut and secured by
the thumb tack. The pencil should be
held perfectly perpendicular while
scribing the line. The instrument must
be reversed to draw the other half of
the ellipse.

To draw an ellipse that will be an
exact projection of a circle at any given

The Sliding Head can be
Set so That Any Size
Ellipse may be Drawn
within the Scope of
the Instrument

angle it is necessary to determine the
length of the major axis. This may be
done by laying out the circle, either
full size or to scale, and projecting two
parallel lines equal to the diameter of
the circle, or its scale, and connecting
these lines with a line drawn to the re-
quired angle. The length of this line
is the major axis.

Ship's- Wheel Device for a Radiator
Valve

Leaving one's comfortable bed to
open the valve of a radiator in a cold
room is an unpleasant task. The de-
Draw on the Proper Cord to
Open or Close the Valve

C Never run a glass cutter over the
same line twice, as this will ruin the
cutter. Alcohol rubbed along the line
to be cut aids in the process.

vice shown in the sketch obviates the
necessity for leaving the bed, yet gives
as positive control over the valve as if
the hand were on the valve wheel.

The construction of the pulley at-
tached to the top of the valve wheel
is shown in the small sketch at the
right. It is built up of a center sec-
tion of wood and flanges of sheet metal,
fastened with screws. The pulleys at-
tached to the wall are built in the same
way, but are smaller. Any size that is
convenient may be used for the larger
as well as the smaller pulleys, but the
larger pulley must be small enough so
that it will not rub against the end of
the radiator.

The cord is wound around the pulley
at the valve handle, several times, like
the steering cord on a motorboat. This
gives a positive grip on the pulley.
The cord may be conducted directly
from the large pulley to the nearer
small pulley, the other small one being
omitted.

To operate the device draw on the
proper cord to open and close the
valve. It would be well to mark the
cords with tabs so that they may be
readily distinguished. — Contributed by
P. D. Norton, Chicago, 111.

260

Lighted Whirling Fan Used
as Radiator Ornament

An ornament for the automobile-
radiator cap that attracted a great deal
of attention at night was made by

CLAMP'
TOP VIEW OF BEARING

Homemade Ornament for an Automobile Radiator
Revolves with the Bulbs Lighted, Attracting Attention

attaching two incandescent lamps to
the blades of a small propeller, which
is whirled around by the wind. By
using the shaft on which the wheels
of a roller skate revolve, ball bearings
were provided. One end of this shaft
is held rigid in a block of wood.

The wires which lead from the pro-
peller are run under the hood, and at-
tached to the socket for the trouble
lamp. They are taped to the rod that
braces the radiator, to avoid a short
circuit, and then out from under the
hood at the radiator cap, and connected
to the brushes A and B. The incan-
descent electric-light bulbs are attached
to the ends of the propeller blades and
connected in series. The wire is run
from one side of the socket E to the
collar C, and soldered to the latter.
The wire from the other side of the
socket is connected to the other lamp
F. The other wire from this lamp
socket at F is soldered to the other col-

lar D. The brushes are made by bend-
ing a strip of copper into the shape
shown in the detail, and fastening it
to the wooden block by means of screw
binding posts, soldered to the strips. —
F. Lloyd Adams, Jersey City, N. J.

A Fifty-Cent Electric Stove

Few persons realize what an intense
heat may be developed when the globe
of an ordinary incandescent lamp is
tightly inclosed, largely eliminating the
loss of heat. When the lamp is in-
closed, the temperature will increase
until the rate of radiation is equal to
that at which the heat is generated. A
good reflector is a poor radiator, hence,
when the metal wall surrounding the
lamp is bright and shiny, both inside
and out, the heat is reflected inward.

To make a small stove that will keep
liquids warm, melt paraffin, dissolve
glue, etc., procure an ordinary 16-cp.
carbon lamp, a porcelain receptacle,
and a bright, clean tin can, about 4 in.
in diameter and 7 in. long. Thoroughly
blacken the bottom on the inside, and
then solder on four small brackets, cut
from sheet brass or copper, so that the
can may be held down firmly, when in-
verted on the base. The latter should
preferably be made of hard wood, with
the upper edges beveled, as shown.
Next bore the hole for the wire or flexi-

A Handy Electric Stove can be Made at an
Outlay of 50 Cents

ble cord. Fasten down the porcelain
receptacle, connect the wiring, screw in
the globe, and screw down the tin can;
the stove is then ready for operation.
— John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.

By CHARLES M. MILLER

A Variety of Small Stools and
Foot Rests

[The various materials referred to in this article
describ
article on "A Reed Basket,

n detail in
n the Boy

prefer-
those made

Dy number or size were described
an article on "A Reed Bask
llechanic, Book 2, page 257.]

FOOTSTOOLS of reed are
able, in the home, to
of other materials, because of their
light weight, rounded edges, and com-
fortable, yielding tops. Reed, rattan,
and similar material, used in their con-
struction, withstand hard wear, and
will not easily mar floors or furniture,
a feature not to be overlooked,
especially since the footstool is a
favorite seat or play table of children.
Several types of stools and foot
rests are shown in the illustration.
A stool having a framework of dowels,
covered with reed, and utilizing the
frame to produce a paneled efifect,
is shown in Fig. 3. The upper
dowel of the framework is covered
and woven over with the top, in
the somewhat lighter stool shown in
Fig. S ; the legs are braced at the ends
with reed, arched and covered with
winding reed. The stool shown in
Fig. 11 is designed with rounded lines.
the bracing dowels being set low, and
a panel of openwork woven into the
sides. Figure 15 shows a foot rest, the
framework of which is steamed and
bent, and the top slanted to provide a
more comfortable rest for the feet. It
is strongly braced, paneled on the sides
with winding reed, and ornamented
Avith openwork scrolls. The details of
the construction of the frames and the
method of weaving the reed are shown
in the other sketches.

Dowels, % in. in diameter, are used
for the main framework of all of the
stools shown. The dimensions of the
various stools may be made to suit
individual taste, those suggested in
each instance having been found satis-
factory. A good size for the stool
shown in Fig. 3 is: height, 9 in.; width,
11 in. ; length, 15 in. The lower of the

horizontal dowels should be set at
least one-third the height of the leg
from the top. The braces are notched
at their ends to fit the curve of the
legs, and finishing nails are driven into
them through the legs. The corner
joints are further reinforced by a bind-
ing of reed, placed over them. The
holes for the spokes are bored through
the braces before the construction is
nailed together. They should be bored
about 1^,4 ill- apart, spaced uniformly,
according to the length and width of
the stool. The tops of the legs should
project about /4,j in. above the upper
braces, so as to produce a level surface
when the winding reed is applied.

The upper end of the legs must first
be covered with winding reed, as
shown in Fig. 3. Tack a strip of the
reed on ; then add successive pieces,
as shown, until the end is covered. The
joint of the leg and the lower brace
must be reinforced, as shown in Fig. 2,
by tacking winding reed over it hori-
zontally. The braces must then be
wound with winding reed, the spokes
being inserted later. In winding the
reed on the braces, tack one end of it
to the brace at the left of a leg; then
begin the winding on the brace to the
right of the leg, and as each hole is en-
countered mark with pencil on the reed,
so that if any of the holes are covered

261

262

they may be found easily, when insert-
ing the spokes. The marks should be
made on the lower side.

The spokes extend from the lower
edge of the bottom rail on one side to
the lower edge of the corresponding
rail or brace on the opposite side. Short
spokes are fitted between the upper
and lower rails at the ends of the stool.
The top is woven complete before the
sides are woven, the pairing weave
being used. In this method two strands
of reed are handled together, the first
passing behind one spoke, and being
below the second strand, and then pass-
ing in front of the next spoke, and
being above the second strand, etc.
This weave is shown in detail in Fig. 9,
illustrating an article on "Taborets and
Small Tables for the Summer Veran-
da," page 155, July, 1916. The weaving
of the top includes the covering of the
upper rails at the ends of the stool,
which are wound in as spokes, the reed
passing around them and being di-
rected back in the opposite direction.

The weaving for the sides is carried
around the stool continuously, pass-
ing around the legs. One of the strands
in the pairing weave passes behind the
leg, and the other must be wound
around it an extra turn, to cover up the
space otherwise exposed. The reed is
wound around the legs to the lower
end, the strand being tacked at the
inner side of the leg.

The framework for the second type
of stool is shown in Fig. 6. The two
side rails are fixed into place by the
same method used in making the first
stool, and the frame is braced on the
ends by sections of No. 12 or No. 14
reed. These are fitted into place and
covered in the winding. The braces
should be fitted to the curve of the
leg, and nailed into place with small
finishing nails. The ends where the
braces join the legs and rails should
be whittled down to a long, thin wedge,
so that they may be bound in securely
by the reed that is wound around the
legs, as shown in Fig. 4.

The spokes in this model, as shown
in Fig. 6, do not pass through the
upper rails, but extend from one lower

rail over the upper rails and to the
lower rail on the opposite side. This
makes it necessary that the upper rails
be set slightly below and in from the
top and outer edges of the legs. The
lower rails should then be set in so as
to be uniform with the upper ones.

The lower rails and the end braces
are wound by the method used for the
rails in the first stool. The tops of
the legs are finished differently, how-
ever, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. The
weaving is begun at the lower rail, and
proceeds until the side panel is filled
to the under edge of the upper rail.
The weavers cannot then be returned
at the corner, and are cut off to extend
2 in. beyond the leg. Their ends are
thinned out, and then brought around
the corner against the upper rail on
the end, as shown in Fig. 5. Alter-
nately they are turned down on the
leg and against the end rail, produc-
ing a covering for the corner. The
strands of the top are woven over the
thinned-out ends, and bound over the
joint of the braces with the upper rail.
The corners may be beaten gently with
a block of wood to smooth them, and
to bring the weavers firmly together.
The weavers pass twice around the
legs, as each strand is brought to the
leg, as shown in Figs. 5 and 7. It
will be found convenient to place the
spokes in only one lower rail, as in
Fig. 6, while weaving the first side
panel, and the top. As the work pro-
ceeds the spokes are bound down to
the upper end rails, and when the mid-
dle of the second side panel is reached,
they are trimmed off and fitted into
their holes, on that side.

The third stool differs fundament-
ally from the preceding ones in that
the framework is curved at the upper
ends, and the weaving of the top is
carried down over the ends. The frame-
work is shown in detail, in Fig. 9. Ash
dowels, % in. in diameter, are used for
the framework, and the rails are
notched into the main sections, and
nailed, as were those in the preceding
stools. The length of the curved dowels
must be determined carefully, and it is
desirable to have the stock longer than

The Making of Stools in Woven Reed Affords the Craftworker an Excellent Oppor-
tunity to Produce Constructions, for Hoine Use, or as Gifts, That Have Origi-
nality and a Personal Element. The Frameworks for Four Typical Stools and Foot
Rests are Shown at the Left, and the Completed Objects at the Right. Figure 14
Shows a Variation Adaptable to the Methods of Weaving Shown in Other Models

263

26i

is necessary for the finished pieces,
so that inaccuracies in bending may be
allowed for properly. The distance
between the legs should be such that
a space of y^ in. is provided between
the legs and the first hole for the side
spokes, and the intervening spokes
should be placed 1 in. apart. A satis-
factory size is to make the stool 6 in.
high, the end rails 8 in., and the side
rails 13 inches.

The method of bending the dowels is
shown in Figs. 12 and 13. They must
be soaked in hot water or steamed, and
clamped around the form as indicated,
being left to dry. A pipe fitted over
the ends of the dowels, to give leverage,
will aid in bending them. The form is
made by fitting pegs, suitably spaced,
into a board, Ys in. or more in thick-
ness. The curved pieces may be braced
temporarily, as shown, and removed
from the form when partly dried, so
that it can be used quickly for the sec-
ond piece. The pegs must be set close
enough together so that the curve at
the upper ends of the legs will not be
too large, making the legs appear short.
Care must be taken in bending this
short curve, as the dowels are likely
to break if the curve is quite abrupt.
By setting the pegs solidly and making
them long enough, two pieces of dowel
rod may be curved in the form at the
same time, and permitted to dry. A
convenient tray of galvanized iron, for
use in heating water for the moisten-
ing of the dowels, is shown in Fig. 10.
It is 28 in. long, but may be made
shorter if the points at which ounces
are to be made are moistened sepa-
rately. A wash boiler, or any other
suitable vessel, may be used for heating
the water and dipping the dowels into
it. After being shaped, the pieces are
trimmed ofT to the proper height on the
leg portions. Holes for the spokes are
then bored through the lower and side
rails, and they are notched and nailed
to the legs.

The cross rails of the framework,
shown in Fig. 9, are fixed into place by
the method used in the previous
models. The lower rails should be set
about 2 in. from the floor, and are

bored for double spokes. The rails are
set with their outer edges Vs in- in
from the edges of the legs, so that the
weaving will be flush with the surface
of the legs, rather than project slightly
beyond it. The spokes for the ends
and seat, or top, pass from one lower
rail on one end to the corresponding
rail on the other end, and are sup-
ported on the upper end rails. There
are no corners to be fitted with the
winding reed in this model, as the
windings continue over the curves at
the ends and down over the latter, by
the same method of weaving as used
in the top. The weaving is begun at
the lower rails, and passes completely
around the sides and ends of the stool,
until about l^-^ in. has been covered, up
from the lower rails. The ends only
are then covered, the strands of reed
passing around the curved portion of
the upper rails, and around the dowels
forming the support for the top, in
weaving back and forth.

The ornamental weaving at the sides
of the stool is produced by spreading
out the double spokes and conducting
them to the proper holes in the upper
rails. Several types of design may be
made by crossing the spokes in various
ways before setting them into the holes
in the rails. The short spokes in the
sides are permitted to remain with their
upper ends free and longer than neces-
sary while the li/2-in. lower section is
woven. They must be cut carefully
to the size necessary to form the de-
sired design, and the ends glued into
the holes.

The stool shown in Fig. 15 is de-
signed as a foot rest, with a slanting
top. It is similar in general construc-
tion to that shown in Figs. 9 and 11,
the framework being made of dowels,
bent to the shape indicated by means
of a form. The top and ends are woven
in the manner described for the pre-
vious model. A point of diflference to
be noted is the bracing by means of a
woven panel below the side rails, as
shown in Fig. 15. This feature may
be carried around the ends also, or the
ends may be braced to the lower side
panel by the method of bracing shown

26c

in Fig. 4. The rails around the stool
are all on the same level. The double
spokes for the top are fixed into the
end rails, the spokes for the side panels
into the side rails, and the smaller
dowel placed at the lower edge of the
side panels, as a support for the twisted
weaving shown. The weaving of the
top and the panels is by the method
used in the previous model. The scrolls
fitted into the open portions of the
sides are tacked into place, and the
strands of weaving reed carried over
them, where the curves touch the upper
and lower rails. A variety of designs
may be worked out for the openwork.
The scrolls are made of No. 6 or No. 8
reed, and should be formed on a base,
as in Fig. 12, brads being used to hold
them in shape until dry.

Another type of foot rest with a
slanting top is shown in Fig. 14. The
framework is built up of dowels,
straight sections only being used. The
joints are fastened by the method used
in the first and second models de-
scribed. The method of covering the
frame is essentially the same as for
the stool shown in Fig. 15, or an adap-
tation of that used in Fig. 11 may also
be applied. \\^here facilities for steam-
ing or moistening the dowels are not to
be had conveniently, this type of con-
struction will be found satisfactory, the
designs being limited to straight lines,
however. The method of covering the
framework used in Fig. 3 is also avail-
able for the framework shown in Fig.
14, and the corners may be finished as
shown in Fig. 2. Numerous variations
and combinations of the types shown
may be worked out readily after one
has become reasonably familiar with
the possibilities of woven-reed con-
struction.

The piece of tape took the place of the
tail. The shot holes through the skin

Squirrel-Skin Bill Fold

As a souvenir of the "days afield" my
brother fashioned a quaint bill fold out
of a squirrel skin, which, by the way,
is a skin of remarkable toughness.
After tanning the skin and removing
the hair, it was cut as shown, the skin
of the forelegs being used as fold-overs.

Bill Fold Fashioned from a Squirrel Skin as a

Souvenir of a Hunting Trip

added the requisite touch of realism, re-
calling a day with the gun. — James M.
Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Waterproof Dry-Battery Case

_ Dry batteries that are sealed in a
tight, waterproof case will last much
longer than those exposed to damp-
ness, especially in marine practice. A
box, like that shown in the sketch, will
afiford excellent protection and add ma-
terially to the life and efficiency of
batteries. It is constructed of y^-'m.
cypress, or oak, of a length and width
depending upon the capacity in number
of cells desired. The inside dimensions
should be such that the ceils are
firmly fitted. It should be put to-
gether with screws and marine, or any
other waterproof, glue. The batteries
should be placed in the case and con-
nected. Molten parafiin wax should
then be poured over and under the
cells. Do not get the wax too hot, but
heated only to the melting point. Bind-

266

ing posts and a single-blade switch
should be placed on the case and con-
nected up. Screw on the cover, after
painting the top edges with the glue.

Batteries Protected
by a Waterproot

Case will Give

Longer and More

EfiEicient Service

Give the case a good coat of varnish
and paint, and fit with a carrying
handle. This makes a neat and handy
battery outfit that is thoroughly water-
proof. The case can be refilled by cut-
ting out the wax and removing the old
cells.— B. F. Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.

Making Small Ratchet Wheels in a
Lathe

Accurately formed ratchet wheels of
small size may be made without special
appliances in a lathe. A triangular
file and a simple gauge, made of a piece
of hardened steel, are the only tools
required, as shown in the illustration.

The lathe is prepared as an index for
the ratchet wheels by dividing the face
of one of the steps, preferably the larg-

est, of the cone pulley. A center punch
may be used in marking the gradua-
tions slightly, and another point should
be marked in the headstock base, from

which dividers are used to gauge the
movement of the spindle. The dividers
should be set, when the work is begun,
so that one point rests in the punch
mark on the headstock and the other
in one of the marks on the pulley. The
bearings should be tightened so that
the work will not shift easily. The
blank to be cut is supported on an
arbor provided with a shoulder, and is
held in place by a small machine screw,
threaded into the end of the arbor.

The teeth are cut by filing them with
the gauge as a guide. If the spindle is
turned carefully so that the dividers
register the graduations precisely, the
ratchet wheel will be cut accuratel3^
By first roughing out the teeth and
then refiling them with a fine file, a
more smoothly finished surface will re-
sult. Other forms of teeth might also
be made if a properly shaped gauge is
provided. — Charles F. Merrill, Hope-
dale, Mass.

Front-Opening Hatbox

Lifting a hatbox down from a high
shelf, onlv to find that the desired hat
is not among the several hats con-
tained therein, is annoying. If the hat
shelves of the clothes closet are pro-
vided with boxes that open on the
front, the hats may be removed easily
without taking the boxes from the
shelves. Rectangular boxes are used for
making the front-opening containers
by cutting the side corners of the front,
and using the front lower edge as a
hinge. The top, or cover, is placed over
the box, holding the hinged front in
place when closed. These boxes have
been found to afford ample protection
and are convenient. — D. J. Hough,
Toledo, Ohio.

Plaster of Paris to Set Screws into
Wall

Screws holding light fittings in a
bathroom were found to be driven into
the plaster between laths and became
loosened. No strain was placed upon
them, and as it was desired to replace
the screws in the same holes, the fol-

267

lowing method was employed : A cot-
ton string was wrapped around the
threads of the screw, and the screw
then dipped into plaster of Paris until
sufficient of this adhered to it to till
tlie hole in the wall and to permit some
of it to be forced behind the plaster.
When the plugs thus formed were dry,
they resisted a considerable pressure,
by reason of the enlarged portions be-
hind the plaster. — H. A. Trester, Mil-
waukee, A\^is.

Case for Fishhooks Made of a Tin Can

After trying several devices for keep-
ing my fishhooks, I hit upon my pres-
ent method, which has been found sat-
isfactory. The materials used are : a
i/^-lb. baking-powder tin ; two disks,
2 in. in diameter and 1-4 in. thick, sawed
from a convenient limb ; a twig, 4 in.
long, somewhat smaller than a lead
pencil, made smooth and straight ;
enough cork stoppers, about % hi. in
diameter at the small end, to make
Sy2 in. in length, and a few drops of
cold glue.

Drill a hole
lengthwise
through the stop-
pers and through
the center of
each disk, just
large enough to
allow the twig to
pass through
closely. Cut from
the small ends of
two of the stoppers a piece, 1/4 in. long,
for pieces A and B. Pass the twig
through the long stoppers and the
disks ; the pieces A and B should then
be glued to the ends of the twigs pro-
jecting beyond the disks, to fasten the
hook holder together, and to be used
for handles by which it may be lifted
from the box. If the hooks are dry
when they are stuck into the corks
which form the center, they will keep
in good condition indefinitely, and their
points will never be dulled by coming
in contact with the tin sides of the box
or with each other. — C. A. King, East
Kingston, N. H.

Improvement on Pocket Flash Lamps

It is often desirable to concentrate
the rays from a pocket flash lamp on
a limited area
rather than
spreading them,
as is the case
with many lamps
of this type. The
addition of a
hood, which may
be slipped over
the lens, as
shown in the
illustration, con-
centrates the light in this manner. A
strip of sheet brass, about ^32 in. thick,
4 in. long, and % in. wide, was drilled
at the center, forming an opening of
the same diameter as the lens. A brass
tube was soldered to fit over the hole.
The ends of the strip were bent back
at right angles, to hold the device
firmly against the sides of the flash
lamp. The lamp is used in the ordi-
nary fashion, and the clip may be re-
moved quickly when not needed. It
may be plated or finished to suit the
metal parts of the lamp. — Ralph W.
Tillotson, Erie, Pa.

Testing Dry Cells with Light Bulb

Tests of batteries for telephones,
doorbells, and similar appliances, may
be made by the
use of a lamp
from a pocket
flash light. Re-
m o V e the re-
flector and lamp
and connect
them with the
poles of each cell
to be tested, as
shown in the
sketch. The glow
of the lamp is
proportional to
the amount of life in the cell. Very
often but one dead cell will be found to
cause trouble. By testing carefully,
the good cells may be retained and new
ones substituted for those worn out.

268

Loading Box to Dispense with
Dark Room

When a daylight developing tank is
used, a dark room is needed only for
loading the plate holders and for trans-

A Dark Room Is Unnecessary for the Loading of
Plates When the Device Shown is Used

ferring exposed plates to the tank.
These operations may be performed
satisfactoril}' in darkness, using a large
box with holes made in the side to ad-
mit the hands, as shown in the sketch.
The box may be made of light wood
or stout cardboard. The sleeves fitted
to the openings are provided with elas-
tic bands to insure that no light creeps
in at the edges. The holders, plates,
and sponge should be arranged con-
veniently in the box before beginning
operations.

The box must be made light-proof
by lining it with black cloth if neces-
sary. If any difficulty is experienced
in identifying the film side of the plates
they may be marked with minute tabs
at the corner on the film side, or iden-
tified by moistening the finger tip on
the sponge and testing for a slight
stickiness of the film side at the ex-
treme corner. A red window might
be fitted into the box, but the device
has been found satisfactory without it.
—Contributed by H. J. Gray, Lewes,
Sussex, England.

CNew brooms should be soaked in
strong, hot salt water. This toughens
the bristles and makes them last much
longer.

Rubber Bands Made from Old Inner
Tubes

Old inner tubes of bicycles, or other
vehicles, may be cut into rubber bands
of various widths which will be found
to give good service. The tubes should
be laid flat on a hard piece of board, or
a piece of sheet zinc, and the bands
cut off' one at a time with a sharp knife
held against a straightedge. In cutting
them on wood, it is best to use a close-
grained stock and to cut across the
srrain of the wood.

Sailors' Sweetheart Picture Frame

The boys on United States battle-
ships are fond of making trinkets and
souvenirs to be sent home, and the
sailors' sweetheart picture frame shown
in the sketch is a favorite. Speaking
from experience. I know that many
"landlubbers" will be interested in this
novelty, although coming from a man-
of-war makes it more interesting. I
have been there and, therefore, I know.
The place of honor in the center is of
course reserved for the lady. The

ALL EDGES
ROUNDED

The Center Panel is Reserved for the Sailor's

Sweetheart, and in the Others Pictures of

Relatives are Placed

smaller picture openings may be filled
with penny pictures of father and
mother, or other relatives. — Contrib-
uted by Charles Rorer, Bridgeport,
Connecticut.

y/.

4 mMy, <^ ^M'. #%

i/'J^/My. M/.

By CHARLES M. MILLER

Taborets and Small Tables for the
Summer Veranda

[The various materials referred to in this article
by number or size were described in detail in
an article on "A Reed Basket," in the Boy
Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.

UTILITY and ready portability are
well recognized features of woven-
reed furniture, but the qualities which
make it especially attractive for sum-
mer use in the open air, or on the ve-
randa, are its inviting comfort and
graceful lines. While furniture of this
type arranged in suites makes a par-
ticularly harmonious showing, indi-
vidual pieces may be used in combina-
tion with other furniture, lending a
touch of variety. Small tables or tabo-
rets, of light weight and simple design,
may be made by the novice, and may
be adapted to a variety of uses. Foot-
stools, jardiniere stands, sewing tables,
card tables, and smoking stands are
some of the possibilities. Three repre-
sentative types are shown in Figs. 1 to
3, and the general method of construc-
tion as well as the details of the weav-
ing are also illustrated.

A serviceable taboret or stand is il-
lustrated in Fig. 1. It is 18 in. high,
and 17 in. in diameter on the top. The
sides are 9 in. wide at the top and 1-4
in. at the bottom.

The framework for the top of the
stand consists of a disk of wood, 16 in.
in diameter, with a similar one, 11 in.
in diameter, directly underneath, the
edge being set under 1 in. all around.
Four legs of 1-in. doweling support it,
and two cross braces of doweling are
placed between diagonally opposite
corner posts, behind the woven por-
tions of the side. The grain of the
wood in the upper disk should run at
right angles to that of the lower, to
prevent warping, and the disks should
be fastened together with nails or
screws. Avoid putting them into the
lower disk, where the legs are to be
fixed.

To locate the position for the legs,
draw a diameter on the under side of
the top, as at A, Fig. 4, and 4 in. on
either side of it draw parallel lines B
and C. Draw another diameter, D, at
right angles to A, and draw the parallel
lines F and F 4 in. from the diameter
D. Where the four outside lines inter-
sect will be the centers of the holes for
the legs. These holes are not bored
perpendicularly, but are slanted to con-
form to the slant of the leg. A template
should be used in guiding the bit, as
shown at G, Fig. 4. It may be con-
structed of wood, 3 in. wide and 5 in.
long, Fig. 5. Place the gauge just out-
side the edge of the hole to be bored.
Nail it to the board lightly on the diag-
onal, as shown, and guide the bit
against it.

Before the legs are fixed into place
finally, the holes for the spokes of the
side should be bored. The parallel
lines of Fig. 4 now serve another pur-
pose, that of giving the location of the
spokes. Place one spoke 14 in. from
each leg, and the others 1 in. apart.
The legs are utilized as spokes in the
weaving. The spokes should be dou-
ble, and the extra spokes may be in-
serted beside the original ones, after
the weaving has progressed a few
rounds. Number 5 reed should be
used for the spokes and No. 4 reed for

269

270

the weavers, which are woven back
an.d forth around the spokes.

Drive the legs into their sockets, ap-
plying glue, and pin them with nails, as
at H, Fig. 4. Tack strips on the bot-
toms of two pairs of legs and then
fasten two strips fo brace them, as
shown in Fig. 6. The strips should be
put on and the distance between the
legs spaced before the glue sets.

It is best to weave the sides before
beginning the top, so as to prevent rub-
bing the woven top while weaving the
sides, with the stand inverted. The
side spokes should be 2 ft. long and
should be set into the top 1 in., with
glue. Turn the top of the stand down
on a table, and laegin the weaving at
the under side of the top. Single weav-
ing is used for the sides, every other
round passing twice around the legs.

There being four sides in the con-
struction, there will be an even number
of spokes, even though there should be
an odd number to each side. The weav-
ing would thus repeat itself, in going
behind and before the same spoke each
time. This is not desirable in this con-
struction, and a change should be made
each round. To do this, go over two
spokes, instead of one, at the finish of
a round. Such a "skip" is an Indian
method, and forms a design that may
be carried in slanting lines back and
forth down the side of the stand. It
is best to confine these "skips" to one
side. Another way to overcome the re-
peat, as the weaving in and out around
the same spokes in two successive lay-
ers is called, is to insert an extra spoke
on one side, thus making an odd num-
ber of spokes around the stand. It is
necessary then to conform the design
of the open work for this side to the
number of spokes. The design for the
open work shown in Fig. 2 will be used
for the stand illustrated in Fig. 1, and
to be described in detail. The fir.st of
the two methods of overcoming the
"repeat" will be used.

Insert the extra reed for doubling
the spokes, after a few rounds have
been woven adjoining the top. The
method of weaving from the corner
post and the making of the open design

are shown in Figs. 7 and 8. The
method of "pairing" for winding the
reed in and out of the spokes, is shown
in Figs. 9 and 10. The rear weaver of
the pair of strands is thrown over the
forward weaver, back of the next spoke
and out. The fore weaver then be-
comes the rear one, and is thrown in
like manner. This process is repeated
in order to make the complete rounds.
Figure 9 shows the weaving from the
side, and Fig. 10 is a view looking
down on top of the spokes and the edge
of the weaving, shown in section. Pair-
ing gives a continuous rope twist to
the two weavers, and an even or odd
number of spokes is equally suitable.

For tiie open designs of Fig. 2, one
or more of which may be placed in the
side of the stand, the center spokes are
left free, as shown in Fig. 7. Before
turning the first weaver back for the
open work, as at M, start a short
wea\er N about two spokes back from
the opening, and pair it with the regu-
lar weaver across the opening, and two
spokes beyond. In turning back on the
spokes, the single weaver goes twice
around the spokes, as shown by the
intermediate layers O. This is a short
bend and the weavers must be very
soft. Use short ones and w^et them fre-
quently with a sponge. A sectional
view of the weaving at the opening is
shown in Fig. 8, as it joins with the
weaving around the corner posts. At K,
the weaver turns back on a double thick-
ness of reed, and at L, a short spoke is
set back of the other two, and the
weaver is wound around the three, thus
lessening the abruptness of the wind-
ing. The latter method is the better.
At the horizontal center of the open-
ing, two rounds continue across the
opening and around the stand. Pair a
short piece of reed across at the finish
of the openings, as was done at the
lower end at N, Fig. 7.

After weaving to within 5 in. of the
bottom of the legs, cut of? the extra
member of the double spokes, and soak
the ends of the remaining spokes in
water. Braid them into the border fin-
ish, as shown in Fig. 1. The corner
posts serve as spoke spaces, and the

F.s

-.1 h— %"

:X^^S^

;

Taborets, of Light Weiffht and Simple Design, may be Made by the Novice and Adapted to a Variety
of Uses in the Home. They Are Particularly Attractive for the Summer Veranda. Sewing Tables,
Jardiniere Stands. Taborets, Footstools, Card Tables, and Smoking Stands Are Some of the Possibilities.
A Taboret, or Small Stand, is Illustrated in Fig. 1, and the Details of Its Construction are Also
Shown. The Tall Stand Illustrated in Fig. 2 Involves the Same General Principles of Construction, Modi-
fied to Suit the Framework. The Footstool Shown in Fig. 3 Is Typical of Stands Having Vertical Sides

271

272

spokes nearest them are wound around
the bottom ends of the legs. Short
spokes may be inserted beside the posts
and wound around them if the ends of
the spokes are not long enough for this
purpose.

The top may be made next. Holes
are bored horizontally into the edge of
the under disk, as shown in Figs. 4
and 11. In Fig. 13 the holes are shown
bored into the edge on an angle. This
method gives a thicker rolled edge to
the top, although both methods are
satisfactory. These holes must be
bored before the work on the top is
begun. There are two ways of begin-
ning the weaving for the top. The
radial spokes may cross each other in
groups of four, the upper and lower
courses being bound together with
winding reed, as shown in Fig. 13, or
a small maple disk may be used as a
center from which the spokes radiate,
as shown in Figs. 1-4 and 20. The cen-
ter-disk method is not difficult, and is
used extensiveh^ The other type is
novel, and also quite feasible.

The spokes for the method shown in
Fig. 13 are bound together in the fol-
lowing manner: Place two spokes at
right angles to each other and wind
them with winding reed, the end of the
latter beginning between the two
spokes, as shown at P, Fig. 15. The
perpendicular spoke is uppermost. Add
a second perpendicular spoke and bind
it into place, as at O. Continue this
process until four perpendicular spokes
have been bound in as at R. Place a
second horizontal reed into position
and go over each vertical spoke with
a separate winding, as in the first
course. Continue until four horizontal
spokes are bound in, and the end of
the winding reed is looped around the
last, as shown at S. The spokes should
be of No. 5 reed, and 24 in. long.

Four groups of four spokes each will
result by following out the process de-
scribed. Separate the spokes by draw-
ing the outer ones into the corner
spaces. They should have the appear-
ance of spokes in a wheel, as in Fig. 16.
Use two weavers of No. 4 reed, in the
pairing weave, as shown in Fig. IG, and

in detail in Figs. 9 and 10. Continue
the pairing weave until a center, 8 in
in diameter, is woven. Crowd up the
weaving closely, for the appearance of
the top will depend much on the first
few rounds. Hold the center with the
left hand, and manipulate the weavers
until they are well seated in their
proper places.

\Vhen a few rounds have been
woven, nail the center securely to its
place on the middle of the top. This
will leave both hands free for the weav-
ing. After a disk, 8 in. in diameter,
has been woven, begin the triple weave
illustrated in Figs. 17 and 18. As the
triple weave is begun, add another
spoke. 8 in. long, between each pair, all
around the top, making 16 new and 16
original spokes. When two or three
rounds are woven, the new spokes will
become secure. Continue the triple
weave to the edge of the top. Measure
and cut the end of the spokes to uni-
form length. Curve the ends over the
edge to see how much will be needed
before cutting, allowing about lo in.
for insertion into the holes in the edge.

Wet the ends of the spokes with wa-
ter until they are pliable enough for
the cun'e. Bending and tying them
down while wet and permitting them
to dry in this position, as shown in Fig.
19, is desirable also. Weave down the
cun^e of the roll and insert the ends of
the spokes in their respective holes
with glue. Then with the single, plain
weave on the under side of the roll,
weave well up to the ends of the
spokes.

For the disk-center method of con-
struction, as shown in Figs. 14 and 20,
use y^-'m. maple, and cut it 5 in. in
diameter for the centerpiece. To locate
holes on the edge of the disk draw a
line Yir, in. from the upper edge and
mark off spaces 1 in. apart, except four,
which are made ^Yiq in. apart, to make
a convenient division, practically uni-
form. Bore the holes % in. deep.
Number 5 reed is used for the spokes
and No. 4 reed for the weavers. The
disk should be toenailed around its
edge with brads, fixing it firmly to the
top before the spokes are inserted.

273

Proceed with the pairing weave, as in
the other method described, until 2 in.
of the spokes is covered ; then change
to the triple weave and add additional
spokes. Proceed as with the other type
from this point on.

The taboret is braced by two l-in.
dowel rods, placed 2 in. above the bot-
tom roll of the sides and extending
from one corner to the other, diago-
nally. Their crossing at the center may
be made into a halved joint, by cutting
away one-half of each rod on the adja-
cent edges. The ends are fitted closely
into the corners, and are nailed to the
legs.

A taller stand or small table, the side
weaving of which has been described
as applied to the taboret shown in Fig.
1, is illustrated in Fig. 2. The construc-
tion in general is similar. A lighter roll
is used for the top, and the bottom
ends of the legs are curved outward
slightly. The legs are ctirved by steam-
ing the ends of the corner posts, clamp-
ing them into position, and permitting
them to dry.

The footstool, shown in Fig. 3, may
be made as a miniature stand, with
vertical legs, and the spokes set in a
circle under the top board. The spokes
and weavers will carry the form, if well
woven. The stool may also be braced,
to withstand hard usage. It should be
about 12 in. in diameter at the top, 10
in. in diameter for the body, and 6 in. in
height.

The method of forming the opening
shown in the side of the taboret in Fig.
1, and the weaving of the construction,
will be readily understood from the
method described. The principles and
methods presented may be applied
readily to other construction of the
same general type. The physical limi-
tations of reed, as a constructive ma-
terial, and the necessity for a substan-
tial framework must always be con-
sidered in such adaptations in order to
obtain satisfactory results.

COne ounce of nitrate of iron added to
8 oz. of hyposulphite of soda in a
gallon of water and applied hot, pro-
duces a sreen finish on brass.

Coaster with Safety Brake

Coasting on homemade devices is
much enjoyed by children, but often
accompanied with dangers because of

The Brake Is a Worth-
while Addition to the
Coaster from the
Standpoint of Safety

RUBBER MAT

difficulty in stopping quickly. The
sketch shows a method of applying a
simple brake to such a coaster, and "the
materials used may be obtained easily
by boys in the home. The rubber mat
indicated in the sketch gives a secure
footing. The brake consists of a piece
of wood, about 10 in. long and 3 in.
wide. It is hinged to the base and held
in a raised position by a coiled string,
attached near the top of the device. A
powerful pressure is obtained by
throwing the rider's weight on the

pedal.

Fountain-Pen Wrench

Fxperiencing considerable difficulty
in unfastening the parts of my foun-
tain pen, I pressed into service an
eraser in the method illustrated. The
grip on the pen parts was positive and
resulted in quickly releasing them

The Eraser

Aids in

Gripping

the Barrel

without marring the surface or in-
juring the fingers. — Contributed by
Charles R. Mellen, Jr., Geneva, N. Y.

274

Diving Tower for the Summer Camp

Aquatic pleasures and sports at a
summer camp or lake may be consid-
erably enlivened by the building of a
diving tower like that shown in the

of the camp some weeks later. This
covers the cost of the lumber, and
several resorts and cottages now boast
towers made by the campers.

The tower is built largely of 2 by 4-
in. stock. The longer pieces at the cor-
ners are 13 ft. in length, slanted so that
the lower end of the tower is T ft.
square and the platform at the top 3
ft. square. The handrail at the top is
fixed to extensions of the rear uprights.
A spring board is fastened on two hori-
zontal braces near the middle of the
tower, and is reached by the ladder.
The structure is built on the shore and
towed out to its position. It is sunk
and weighted by the box of stone sup-
ported on cross braces. — Contributed
by F. D. Lewis.

Boys at a Summer Camp
Construct a Diving Tower
Each Summer and Oisoose
of It for t.he Cost oi the
Lumber WhenThey Break
Camp, The Tower is Built
Largely of Two by Four-
InchStockand is Weighted
with a Box of Stone, At
the Right Is a Reproduc-
tion of a Photograph Show-
ing the Builders Putting
Their Diving Tower to Use

sketch. It has proved very successful
at a boys' summer camp at Crystal
Lake, 111. The boys have made a prac-
tice for several years of building a
tower early each swimming season on
the opening of their camp in July and
disposing of it for about $5 at the close

Gas Mantles Made at Home

I spent several interesting hours in
experimenting with gas mantles which
I made at home, and the process

should be of
interest to oth-
ers. While I
did not suc-
ceed in making
mantles of the
quality of the
commercial ar-
ticle, they were
neverth eless
successful and
gave light.
-Mag n e s i u m
produces a
white light
when ignited.
By using com-
mon Epsom
salts, which
contain mag-
n e s i u m sul-
phate, I made
a strong solu-
tion in distilled water. I soaked a piece
of gauze bandage in the solution, dried
it carefully and soaked it again a num-
ber of times, drying it after each im-
mersion. By this time the cloth was
stifif with the dry salt. When held in
a flame, the cloth catches fire and burns

«n.'wv-wnnAnnn:vx'vx'%.%xnwvvv'v^w*i^^xxx>Mn.xxxxx%%x«Ak«.^v%i'vvv%,««\,xxxxxxv^

2r5

out, leaving the skeleton of magnesium
sulphate. This framework, when held
in the flame, glows with an intense
white light. I shaped a piece of the
gauze like a commercial mantle and
dipped it into the solution as explained.
It proved quite satisfactory. — Contrib-
uted by Victor E. Carpenter, South
Bend, Ind.

Whistle Warns of Fish Catch

A toy railroad wheel, a piece of hol-
low cane, and pieces of wire are the
materials necessary for making the
whistle shown in the illustration,
which warns a fisherman that a fish
is attempting to make away with his
bait. The wheel is fitted into the end
of the cane and wedged into place to
form a tight joint. The wires are
formed into loops at the ends of the
cane and fixed to it. The whistle is
attached to the fishline. as shown, with
the open end down and slightly below
the surface of the water. The fishpole
may be fixed so that the whistle will
remain in this position while the fish-
erman is at ease in the shade near by.
When the fish attempts to make away
with the bait, as shown in the sketch,

When the Fish Strikes the Bait the Water is Forced

Up into the Whistle Suddenly, and the Escaping

Air Warns the Fisherman

the water forces the air in the upper
part of the cane out through the center
hole of the wheel, and a whistling
sound is the result.

Anchor for a Canoe or Small Boat

Small craft, particularly those used
for fishing or on streams where a cur-
rent is encountered, should be provided

This Homemade
Anchor Is a Practical

Addition to the

Equipment of a Canoe

or Small Boat, and

Weighs Five Pounds

with an anchor. The illustration gives
details for making one that is simple
in construction and inexpensive. It
weighs about five pounds, and is heavy
enough for light craft up to 18 ft. long.
The main section was made of a piece
of I'lj-in. angle iron, 10 in. long. The
flukes, or endpieces, were made of sheet
iron, 2 in. wide and 8 in. long, bent at
a right angle, and riveted in place. The
straps which hold the link, permitting
it to swing freely, were made of band
iron. The link was made of an old
bicycle crank, into which a ring was
forged. It may be made of iron rod,
forged into the desired shape and fitted
with a ring. A convenient method of
handling the anchor on a boat is to
run the line through a pulley at the
bow and fasten the end of it to a cleat,
near the seat of the person handling
the craft. Care must be taken, in a
canoe or small boat, that sufficient line
is provided to reach the bottom of the
anchorage, as otherwise the craft may
be overturned. — Contributed by B. E.
Dobree, Battleford, Sask., Canada.

CThe use of gasoline instead of tur-
pentine for a thinner will prevent the
sagging of colors in striping.

276

Oiler for a Hand-Drill Press

On stationary hand-power drill
presses, where both hands are required
to turn the crank and hold the work,
some means
must be pro-
vided for apply-
ing lubricant to
the drill, or the
machine would
have to be
stopped from
time to time to
apply the oil. A
very handy ar-
rangement, for
pouring the oil on automatically, is to
make a support of wire to hold an oil-
can, as shown. This will provide a
slow and constant dropping of oil on
the bit. — Contributed by Bert Verne,
San Diego, Cal.

Bearing for Playground Swings

To have the playground swing work

easily and without friction make the

hangers as

. ti shown in the

sketch. The ring
in the hook .s
produces a slight
rolling action
and gives the
swing a free mo-
tion. — Contrib-
uted by Edwin
J. Bachman, Jr., Fullerton, Pa.

Die in a Bottle

The die is made of cork and the
spots painted white. A small round
bottle is procured, the die is placed
in it and the bot-
tle is filled with
water. Be sure
to have enough
water to prevent
any air bubbles
when it is corked
tightly. The
cork is then sealed in the bottle. If

there is an air bubble, the cork die
will not work well.

If the bottle is held bottom up, the
cork die will spin around and float up
against the bottom of the bottle where
the number of spots can be seen. It
is impossible to manipulate the die to
turn up any desired spots, this being
left entirely to chance. A number of
bottles can be prepared so that any of
the dice games can be played. — Con-
tributed by Henry J. Marion, Pontiac,
Michigan.

Small Hook for Hanging a Picture

After an unsuccessful attempt to
hang a small picture with a common
pin, I devised the following method :
After bending about %
in. of the point on an
ordinary pin to an angle
of about 45 deg. and
bending up the other
end in the opposite di-
rection to form a hook, I drove the
point on a downward slant into the
wall. It went in easily and did not
mar the plaster, \yhen making a test
I found that the hook would readily
support a weight of several pounds. —
Contributed by C. P. Smith, E. Rad-
ford, Va.

Covering Hinge Wings

In making fancy boxes where ordi-
nary hinges are used, a much neater
job can be done if as much of the
hinge as pos-
sible is covered.
This can be done
by carefully rais-
ing a sliver with
a sharp chisel as
at A. The wings
are bent at an angle, as shown at B,
and are then set in place, as shown at
C. The sliver is carefully glued back
in place over the hinge wing, and the
surface is leveled with sandpaper.

CA bit of rubber insulation stripped
from an electric wire makes an excel-
lent holder for a scarfpin.

How to MaKe Hammocks

By CHARLES M. MILLER
PART I — A Twine Hammock

CORD hammocks may be made in
two or more different ways, the
knots being formed by the simple over-
hand tie, Fig. 1 ; the flat reef knot, Fig.
2 ; the Solomon's knot, Fig. 3, or by the
triple throw-over, Fig. 4 ; or they can
be knotted by the process known as
netting. Fig. 5, in which a special
needle, or shuttle, is used.

In using any one of the first three
methods of making the knots it is nec-
essary to have cords arranged in pairs
and long
enough to
reach from
one end of the
hammock to
the other, al-
lowing only
sufficient
length for the
take-up in ty-
ing the knots
and the spread
of the meshes.
The overhand
knot is large,
and the Solo-
mon's knot is
a little u n -
wieldy, but
is considered
more beautiful
when tied.
The flat reef
knot is small,
is easily tied
and will not
slip. The net-
ting process
has a good

knot and has the advantage of a short
single cord, as the meshes are made in-
dependently and the cord is carried on
the netting needle.

It is a great advantage, when making
a hammock with the simple overhand,
the flat reef, or the Solomon's knot, to
loop all the pairs of cords at the
center about a rod. Fig. 6 — which may
be any stick such as an old broom
handle — knotting from the center to-

When Making a Hammock with the Simple Overhand, Flat

Reef, or Solomon's Knot, Loop All the Pairs

o£ Cords at the Center about a Rod

ward each end, one side being tied, and
then the other. When the first pairs
are being tied, the opposite ends should
be looped up together out of the way.
Even half the length of a hammock
makes a long cord to be drawn through
each time a knot is tied, and each string
can be wound about the fingers into a
little bundle and secured with a half
hitch, using the same cord, and left
hanging, as shown in Fig. 7, allowing
sufficient cord free to throw large loops

in the tying,
and to make
about 10 addi-
tional meshes.
About 3 ft.
would be a
good length
to be left free.
It will be
necessary t o
have 24 pairs
of cords — 48
cords in all —
each 18 ft.
long to make a
hammock by
the first two
methods o f
tying the
knots. Seine
twine of me-
dium -hard
twist and 24-
ply can be ob-
tained from a
store carrying
sporting
goods, and is
about the best
material to use for this purpose.
When these pairs of cords are looped
on the center rod, and the rod has been
anchored to a wall, as shown in Fig. 8,
begin by placing the mesh stick, or
rather the mesh post. Fig. 9, between
the first pair of cords, A and B, at the
left end of the center rod, as in Fig. 8
and Fig. 6. The simple device illus-
trated in Fig. 9 is very useful for tying
any one of the three first-described

277

278

knots. The device needs no explana-
tion other than the illustration. It will
be seen that there are two sizes on the
top of the post ; the smaller is for the

FiG.2

riG.i

Fi6.3

Fic.4

Fig. 5

The Simple Overhand. Flat Reef. Solomon's Knot,
Triple Throw-Over, and Netting Ties

first time across only. The mesh post
should be of convenient height for a
person when sitting on an ordinary
chair. One foot rests on the base as
the tying proceeds, but there is no pull-
ing over, as the tie draws both ways
on the post, this also doing away with
the pull on the center rod.

The cord to the right, B, is taken in
the right hand and thrown over the
left cord A, Fig. 8, and is held by the
left hand. The left cord A is then
tucked down behind the right, as
shown in Fig. 10. If the right cord
goes over in making the first loop, the
same cord B must also go over in the
second throw, as in Fig. 11, in order
to have a proper square knot that will
not slip. The end of A is then tucked

under B, as shown by the dotted lines.
This makes a very serviceable knot for
the hammock, but can be also used for
other purposes. The knot is shown in
Fig. 2. Draw it up tightly, very hard,
for knotting is not worth much if it is
not tied well.

In case the simple overhand knot is
preferred, the mesh post is placed be-
tween the first pair as before, and cords
A and B are brought to the front as in
Fig. 13, but are carried parallel into a
large loop that is thrown over as illus-
trated, then tucked up through as indi-
cated by the dotted lines. The thumb
and first finger of the left hand now
slide up to the point P, while the right
hand pulls up the loop as it nears the
finish, the thumb and first finger crowd-
ing the loop down hard against the
mesh post. The small part is used for
the first row across. The knot formed
is shown in Fig. 1.

After tying the first pair of cords,
using the knot preferred, slip the first
mesh so made ofl: the tying post and
place the post between C and D, which
is the next, or second, pair. Tie the
second pair and pass on to the third
pair, which is E and F. Continue mov-
ing and tying until all the 24 pairs of
cords have been similarly knotted in
their first mesh. The last knotting will
be the twenty-fourth pair, which is rep-
resented by the cords marked Y and Z.
Instead of tying cords of the same pairs
on the return trip across, one cord Y of
the twenty-fourth pair is tied with one
cord X of the twenty-third pair, and
the other cord W of the twent\--third
pair is tied with the cord \' of the
twenty-second pair, and so on across
the series.

On the second row of tying, the post
is first placed between cords Y and X
and they are knotted together, but in-
stead of tying about the small part of
the post the larger size is used. After
cords Y and X have been tied, cords
W and V are combined. It will be seen
that this is tying the pairs together in-
stead of combining the two cords of the
same pair. The third time across the
combinations are the same as in the
first row. The large mesh is used on

279

all but the first row. The alternations
of rows is continued until the cords are
tied to within 21^ ft. of the end.

cord, or string, about the whole bundle
of cord together with the ends, pull-
ing tightly and tying securely with the

F16.7

The Mesh Post Has Two Sizes on Its Upper End. the Smaller for Knotting the First Row of Meshes, and
the Other for the Remaining Rows. This Illustration Also Shows the Manner of Tying the Knots

Pull out the center rod, insert it in
the second row of meshes, loosen the
ends that were looped up and begin the
knotting of the opposite ends of the
cords. When both sides are completed
to within 2^^ ft. of the ends, the center
rod is removed and inserted in the last
row of meshes. Another simple device
will be found efficient, which consists
of a board, 30 in. long, three or more
inches wide and 1 in. thick, with three
nails driven in slanting, as shown in
Fig. 14, to prevent the ring and rod
from slipping off as the tying proceeds.
One 21^-in. galvanized ring will be re-
quired for each end. The ring is at-
tached to the single nail at the end with
a string. This will be found better
than just slipping the ring over the
nail, as it is necessary to have a little
more play in putting the cords through
for the tying. The distance from the
rod to the ring should be 2 ft. The tie
is made in pairs as before, one cord
going under and the other over the
side of the ring, using the flat reef knot.
There will be a few inches of ends re-
maining after the tie is made and these
are brought back to the main body of
the cord and wound with an extra cord
used for that purpose. The winding is
started by looping the end of the extra

flat reef knot. This is illustrated in
Fig. 15. The winding should be about
11/^ in. long where the turned-back ends
are cut off. F.ach time the cord is
wound about the bundle it should be

Fis.ra

Tying the Overhand Knot and How to Run the First
and Second Rows Across

looped through its own winding and
drawn tightly. This is practically the
buttonhole loop. To finish the winding
the cord should be given a double loop-

280

ing through its own winding ; then with
an awl, or other pointed tool, work a
way through the under side of the

Fig. 15

Attaching the Rings 'to the Ends of the Cords and

the Binding near the Rings: All the Pairs of Cords

are Looped about a Rod in the Center, and the

Knots are Made toward the Ends

other windings so that the end may be
brought out farther back and pulled
tightly, to prevent unwinding when the
pull comes on the hammock. Attach
the ring to the opposite end in the
same manner and the hammock is com-
plete.

The edge can be bound the same as a
tennis net, or a rope can be run through
the outside meshes lengthwise, as de-
sired. A very pretty effect can be ob-
tained by knotting, in a similar man-
ner to the body of the hammock, an
apron fringe for the sides.

Homemade Section Liner

For the rapid and uniform hatching
of cross sections this little device will
be found to give results equaling most
of the high-priced instruments that can

Block Used in a Triangle to Move It at Equal
Distances for Making Section Lines

be purchased. It consists of a hard-
wood block used in connection with a
45° triangle. The corners are cut to
permit the triangle to slide the desired
distance; then, by alternately sliding

the triangle and block with the left
hand, equal spacings can be drawn
without measurements of any kind.

Two different spacings may be
drawn with one block by reversing it,
and two blocks having a different loca-
tion of the angles will give four spac-
ings, which is about all the draftsman
requires in ordinary practice. No
alteration of the triangle is required
with this device, and it requires but
little skill to construct it. — Contributed
by J. A. Shelly, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Tray Attachment for Developing Films

An ordinary tray can be used for film
development, when there is no tank at
hand, by the use of the attachment
shown in the sketch. It consists of a
strip of sheet metal, or tin, bent to fit
under the tray and up on both sides,
to provide bearings for a roller. The
roller is made of hard rubber and should

Roller Attached to a Tray for Use in Developing
a FuU-Length Film

be of such size that its lower surface
will be under the developer in the tray.
The film is drawn back and forth under
this roller.

An Automatic Window Closer

The window closer consists of a
weight. A, attached to one end of a
cord, B, which runs through several
pulleys and has its other end attached
to a hook in the center of the window
sash, as shown in Fig. 1. The weight
A is held in an elevated position by a
small trigger which is operated with
an electromagnet.

The arrangement of the weight and
its control is shown in Fig. 2. The
latch C is held in a horizontal position

281

by an extension on the arm D, which is shown in Fig. 3, in which G repre-
in turn is held by a latch, E. The sents the electromagnet to trip the
latch C is mounted on the same sup- trigger that supports the weight, and

Fig. 3

ritt.2 '

The Window is Automatically Closed by a Weight at the Time Set on the Alarm Clock When the Key
Closes the Electric Circuit, Causing the Magnet to Release the Latch

porting shaft as the arm D, and they
are connected with a coil spring hav-
ing the tension in such a direction that
it holds the latch C down on the exten-
sion of the arm D. When the weight
moves up through the box the latch C
will rise and allow it to pass down be-
side it. The latch holding the lower
end of the arm D may be released by
means of an ordinary vibrating bell
arranged so that its clapper will Sirike
the extension F on the latch and thus
cause its upper end to move from the
engagement with the arm D. A small
coil spring is attached to the arm D
so that it will be returned to its ver-
tical position when the weight has
passed C and thus make it ready for
the next operation without any adjust-
ment except raising the weight and
setting the clock.

A diagram of the electrical circuit

H the contact which remains open
until the weight is raised to the upper
position, when the spring J is forced
against the spring K and closes the cir-
cuit. The circuit still remains broken
until the contact L is closed by the
key on the alarm clock, which is set
in a vertical position between two
springs representing the terminals of
the wire. The contact H should be so
located on the housing for the weight
that it will be closed only when the
weight is resting on the latch C. The
circuit is then opened as soon as the
latch C is released, and the clapper will
stop vibrating.

CWhen a pencil becomes too short for
the hand, apply paste to about 1 in. of
the rubber end, roll on a sheet of paper
about G in. long, and almost all of the
pencil can be used.

How to Make Hammocks

By CHARLES M. MILLER
PART II — A Netted Hammock

A GOOD hammock should be about
12 ft. long, which includes 8 ft. of
network and 2 ft., at each end, of long
cords that are attached to rings. Seine

-:cT

SECTION G-H-N^

^'X^Ctl^-

SHUTTLE

T.'ie Tools Necessary Consist of a Needle, or Shuttle,
a Gauge Board, and a Mesh Stick

twine, of 2-1-ply, is the best material
and it will take II/2 lb. to make a ham-
mock. The twine comes in Vi;-lb. skeins
and should be wound into balls to keep
it from knotting before the right time.
Two galvanized rings, about 2io in.
in diameter, are required.

The equipment for netting a ham-
mock consists of a wood needle, or
shuttle, a gauge board for the long
meshes at the ends, and a mesh stick
for the regular netting of the main
body of the hammock, all of which will
be described in detail.

The shuttle is made of wood and i.-
12 in. long, 11^4 in. wide, and 1,4 i"-
thick. The best material to use is
maple or other hard wood, but very
satisfactory ones can be cut from good-
grained pine. The sketch. Fig. 1, shows
the general shape of the shuttle, one
end being pointed and the other
forked. Lay out the pointed end be-
fore beginning to cut down to size.
Place a compass at the center of the
end, and with a radius of l^A in. de-
scribe the arc AB. With the inter-
sections of this arc and the side lines
of the needle, C and D, as centers, and

the same radius, 11/^ in., cut the arc
AB at E and F. With E and F as cen-
ters draw the curves of the end of the
shuttle. The reason for placing the
centers outside of the shuttle lines is
to obtain a longer curve to the end.
The curves can be drawn free-hand,
but will then not be so good.

The space across the needle at GH is
divided into five ^/4-in. divisions. The
centers of the holes J and K at the base
of the tongue are 3^2 in. from the
pointed end. The opening is 2% in.
long. Bore a Y^-in. hole at the right
end of the opening, and just to the left
three holes, as shown by the dotted
lines. With a coping saw cut out along
the lines and finish with a knife, file,
and sandpaper. Round ofY the edges,
as shown by the sectional detail. It is
well to bevel the curve at L so that
the shuttle will wind easily. The fork
is % in. deep, each prong being 14 in.
wide. Slant the point of the shuttle
and round off all edges throughout and
sandpaper smooth.

The gauge board. Fig. 2, is used for
making the long meshes at both ends
of the hammock. It is a board about 3
ft. long, 4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. An
eight-penny nail is driven into the
board 1 in. from the right edge and 2
in. from the end, as shown by M, al-
lowing it to project about 1 in. and
slanting a little toward the end ; the
other nail N will be located later.

The mesh stick. Fig. 3, should be
made of maple, 8 in. long, 1% in. wide,
and Yi in. thick. Round off the edges
and sandpaper them very smooth.

The making of the net by a specially
devised shuttle is called "natting," or
netting, when done with a fine thread
and a suitably fine shuttle. Much may
be done in unique lace-work designs,
and when coarser material and larger
shuttles are used, such articles as fish
nets, tennis nets and hammocks may
be made. The old knot used in natting
was difficult to learn and there was a
knack to it that was easily forgotten.

282

283

but there is.a slight modification of this
knot that is quite easy to learn and
to make. The modified knot will be
the one described.

The .'-huttle )S first wound by loop-
ing the cord over the tongue, as shown
in Fig 4, then bringing it down to the
forked end and up to the opening on
the opposite side ; then the cord is
again looped over the tongue and re-
turned to the fork or place of starting.
Continue winding back and forth un-
til the shuttle is full. The shuttle will
accommodate from 20 to 35 complete
rounds. If the shuttle is too full it
crowds in passing through the meshes
and delays the work.

Attach one of the galvanized rings
by means of a short cord to the nail
in the gauge board, as shown in Fig. 2.
At a point 2 ft. from the lower edge of
the ring, drive an eight-penny finishing
nail, N. Tie the cord end of the shut-
tle to the ring, bring the shuttle down
and around the nail N; then bring it
back and pass it through the ring from
the under side. The cord will then ap-
pear as shown. A part of the ring pro-
jects over the edge of the board to
make it easier to pass the shuttle
through. Draw the cord up tightly

the left over the thumb and up over a
portion of the ring and pass the shut-
tle under the two taut cords and bring
it up between the thumb and the two

The Shuttle is First Wound and the Long Loops
at One End Formed over the Gauge Stick

and put the thumb on top of the cord
O, Fig. b, to prevent it from slipping
back, then throw a loop of the cord to

After the Completion of the Long Meshes, the Ring
is Anchored and the Mesh Stick Brought into Use

cords, as shown. Draw the looped knot
tight under the thumb. Slip the long
loop of¥ the nail N and tie a simple
knot at the mark P. This last knot is
tied in the long loop to prevent loose-
ness. Proceed with the next loop as
with the first and repeat until there are
30 long meshes.

After completing these meshes
anchor the ring by its short cord to a
hook or other stationary object. The
anchorage should be a little above the
level for tying the knots of the net.
Tie the cord of the shuttle to the left
outside loop and always work from the
left to the right ; and the first time
across see that the long meshes do not
cross over each other, but are kept in
the order in which they are attached to
the ring.

After tying the cord to the mesh 1,
Fig. 6, bring the mesh stick into use.
Pass the cord down over the mesh
stick, drawing the lower end of the
loop down until it comes against the
upper side of the mesh stick and put
the thumb down upon it in this posi- j
tion to prevent slipping. Pass the shut- '

284

tie up through the loop 2 and draw
that down to the mesh stick. Shift the
thumb from the first position to the
second. Throw the cord to the left
over the thumb and about the loop 2,
as shown in Fig. 7, and bring the shut-

Vv.v

Fis.9

FiG.IO

A Square Knot is Used to Join the Ends of the Cord
When Rewinding the Shuttle

tie under both of the cords of mesh 2
and up between the large backward
loop and the cords of the mesh 2.
Without removing the thumb draw up
the knot very tight. This makes the
first netting knot. Continue the cord
around the m.esh stick, pass it up
through mesh 3, throw the backward
loop, put the shuttle under and up to
the left of the mesh 3 and draw very
tight, and do not allow a mesh to be
drawn down below the upper side of
the mesh stick. Some of these cau-
tions are practically repeated, but if a
mesh is allowed to get irregular, it will
give trouble in future operations.

The Gauge Board is Again Used for the Long Loops
at the Finishing End, Then the Cords are Wound

Continue across the series until all
of the long loops have been used and
this will bring the work to the right
side. Flip the whole thing over, and

the cord will be at the left, ready to be-
gin again. Slip all the meshes off the
mesh stick. It makes no diiiference
when the meshes are taken ofif the stick,
but they must all come off before a new
row is begun. Having the ring at-
tached to the anchorage by a cord
makes it easy to flip the work over.
Be sure to flip to the right and then to
the left alternately to prevent the
twisting, which would result if turned
one way all the time.

The first mesh each time across is
just a little dift'erent problem from all
the others, which may be better under-
stood by reference to Fig; 8. The knots
Q, R, and S are of the next previous
series. The cord is brought down over
the mesh stick and up through mesh 1,
and when the loop is brought down it
may not draw to the mesh stick at its
center; it is apt to do otherwise and a
sideway pull is necessary, which is
pulled so that the knots Q and R are
side by side, then the knot at T may
be tied. When the mesh 2 is drawn
down it should pull to place without
shifting, and also all the others of that
row.

Continue the use of the mesh stick
until a net 8 ft. long is made. When the
cord gives out rewind the shuttle and
tie with a small knot that will not slip.
The weaver's knot is good if known, or
the simple square knot shown in Fig. 0
is very good. It is too easy to make
to need direction, but unless it is
thrown over just right it will slip. Let
U, Fig. 8, represent the short cord and
V the new piece to be added. Place
the cord V back of U and give U a
complete turn around V, Fig. 9, and
bring them together at a point above
U, then to the front. Repeat the com-
plete turn of U about V, shown by the
dotted line, and pull tightly. If an-
alyzed, it consists of two loops that are
just alike and linked together as shown
in Fig. 10.

When the 8 ft. of netting has been
completed, proceed to make the long
loops as at the beginning. The same
gauge board can be used, but the tying
occurs at both ends, and since the pairs
cannot be knotted in the center, two

285

or three twists can be given by the
second about the first of each pair.
The long loops and the net are at-
tached together as shown in Fig. 11.
Slip one of the meshes of the last run
over the nail N, and when the cord
comes down from the ring, the shuttle
passes through the same mesh, and
when drawn up, the farthest point of
the mesh comes against the nail. After
this long loop has been secured at the
ring, the first mesh is slipped ofif and
the next put on. All of the long loops
at this end will be about three inches
shorter than at the other end, unless
the finishing nail N is moved down.
This will not be necessary.

With a piece of cord about six feet
long, start quite close to the ring and
wind all the cords of the long loops
together. The winding should be made
very tight, and it is best to loop under
with each coil. This is shown in
Fig. 13.

The hammock is now ready for use.
Some like a soft, small rope run
through the outside edges lengthwise,
others prefer a fringe, and either can
be added. The fringe can be attached
about six meshes down from the upper
edge of the sides. The hammock
should have a stretcher at each end of
the netted portion, but not as long as
those required for web hammocks.

Gourd Float for a Fishline

A unique as well as practical fishing-
line float can be made of a small gourd.
After the gourd has dried sufficiently,
wire loops, to hold the line, are in-
serted, or rather, a single wire is run
through and looped at both ends. The
contents of the gourd need not be re-
moved. Dip the float in a can of var-
nish, or apply the varnish with a brush.

Homemade Arc Light

Those who wish to produce an arc
light for experimental purposes, or for
the brief periods required by photogra-
phy, will find the method of construc-
tion shown in the sketch very simple
and inexpensive. Using the short
lengths of carbons discarded by mov-
ing-picture operators, there is no diffi-
culty in maintaining a good arc for 15
minutes, or more, without once manip-
ulating the adjusting screw at the top.

Only three pieces of wood are neces-
sary besides the base, and in the prep-
aration of these no particular care is
necessary except to have the top arm
swing freely up and down without any
appreciable side movement. The car-
bon holders are merely strips of heavy
tin, which need only be screwed up
sufficiently tight to hold the carbons
in place and yet permit their being
pushed up when the top adjusting

screw will no longer operate. This ad-
justment may be readily taken care of
by means of a long, slender wood screw
with the point filed ofif and a metal

An Efficient Arc Light for Purposes Where a Light
is Required for a Short Time

disk soldered to the top. Connections
are made to the carbon holders either
under a screw head or by soldering the
wires to the metal.

In operating any arc light on the
commercial 110-volt current some re-
sistance must be placed in the circuit.
An earthen jar of water with two strips
of tin or lead for electrodes, will an-
swer every purpose.

CA small leak in an oil or water pipe
on an automobile can be temporarily
stopped by melting a piece of rubber
over the hole.

286

Ornamental Pencil and Pincushion
Holder

A nicely polished animal horn may
be turned into an article of utility in-
stead of being merely used as a wall

Fastening a Horn to a Base to Make an Ornamental
Pen or Pincushion Holder

ornament, as shown in the illustration.
An old lamp base, heavy enough to bal-
ance the horn, and secured to it with a
bolt, is all that is needed to effect the
transformation.

Knife to Trim Magazines for Binding

There has been a number of descrip-
tions telling how to bind magazines,
but none how to trim the edges after
having bound them. Desiring to have
my home-bound volumes appear as
well as the other books, I made a trim-
mer as follows :

Any large knife with a straight edge

Cutter Made of a Large
Straight-Edge Knife for
Trimming Edges of
Bound Magazines ^^^

the untempered portion near the back
of the handle end. Two U-shaped sup-
ports were made of metal and fastened
to the top of an old table, between
which the knife was fastened with a
bolt. A piece of timber, 6 ft. long, 4 in.
wide, and 2 in. thick, was used as a
lever. One end of this piece had a U-
shaped notch cut in it to straddle the
supports under the projecting ends. A
board was attached to the table top,
having one straight edge set where the
knife edge would just pass it.

If the knife has a good sharp edge
it will do very satisfactory work.
When the edges are trimmed the knife
can be removed and used for its origi-
nal work. — Contributed by E. S. Mun-
dell, Lowpoint, 111.

will do for the cutter. I used a large
hay knife. A %-in. hole was drilled in

How to Repair Rubber Gloves

While making a bunglesome job of
patching a pair of rubber gloves, which
I used to keep the stains from my
fingers while developing photographic
plates, a physician friend happened
along and told me how to do it prop-
erly. The method is as follows: Pro-
cure a piece of card, such as heavy
Bristol board used for filing cards;
spread it on one side, rather thick, with
ordinary library paste and stick it to
the rubber tissue, preferably dentists'
rubber dam of light weight ; smooth it
flat, and let the paste dry. When a
patch is needed cut one out, ruljber
and card together, and fit it to the cut
in the glove. Put the glove on the
hand inside out, moisten the patch with
cement, let it dry for a few seconds and
then press it in place hard. If the tear
is large, it is easier to lay the moistened
patch down and fit the edges of the tear
to it, then press hard in place. After
the cement has thoroughly dried out,
soak the patch in water and remove
the bit of card. This gives a patch
fastened securely to the extreme edges ;
flat, water-tight, and as fit to stand boil-
ing as any patch, for sterilizing. After
removing the card, the glove is dusted
with talcum.^Contributed by J. S
Hogans, Uniontown, Pa.

Miniature Metal -Bound Chests

By F. E. tuck

BOYS in a manual-training class be-
came very enthusiastic over the
making of small chestlike boxes, bound
with ornamental metal, and adapted
them to a great variety of uses. The
boxes were designed to suit the taste
of the maker and for use as glove,
handkerchief, jewelry, toilet, treasure
and other boxes, lined with silk, and
finished in wax and varnish, in various
stains. Oak was used for most of
them, and the metals employed were
largely copper and brass, although
silver is suitable for small boxes. They
are simple in construction, as shown
in the working drawings, and can be
made in the home workshop. The
photograph reproduced shows a group
of boxes, for various purposes, and in
several styles of metal binding. The
long box at the top is for gloves or
ties; the larger nne^ are for the boys'

personal use, caring for collars, hand-
kerchiefs, etc. ; the smaller boxes are
for the dresser, providing for the care
of jewelry and similar small articles.
The boxes proved great favorites as
gifts, and the monogram of the re-
cipient may be etched into the metal.
Well-seasoned oak is the most suit-
able material for the making of the
boxes, as it harmonizes well with the
plain metal trimmings. The quarter-
sawed variety is preferable, being more
ornamental, and less likely to warp
or twist. For most of the boxes, stock
% in. thick is suitable, although this
may be cut down to %6 in. for the
smaller boxes, if convenient. The
method of joining the pieces is similar
in all the varieties of boxes, and the
jewel box illustrated in the working
drawings will be taken as a specimen.
The sides of the box are butted against

These Gift Boxes. Trimmed with Ornamental Metal, were Made by Boys in a Manual- Training Class.
A Long Glove Box is Shown Above; the Larger Boxes Are for Handkerchiefs,
and the Smaller Ones for Jewelry and Trinkets

287

&88

the ends, lapping over them, flush, and
nailed with small brads. The bottom
is fitted between the sides and ends,
and nailed so that the nails are con-
cealed by the metal bands, at the four
corners, and at other points, if bands
are placed near the middle. The stock
for the box is cut and finished on all
sides to the following dimensions : all
pieces to be % in. thick ; top, 4i/^ by
7% in.; two sides, 1% by 7 in.; two
ends, 1% by 4 in. ; bottom, 314 by
614 inches.

All the pieces should be scraped care-
fully to a smooth finish, and the nails
started with an awl, or a slightly flat-
tened nail of the same size, fitted into
a hand drill. Extreme care must be
taken, in nailing, that the surface of
the wood is not marred, which is likely
to occur if the nails are driven into the
wood too rapidly, or without starting
holes for them. The feet are cut from
a strip, ^s in. thick and % in. wide, the
cut edges being sandpapered smooth
without destroying the squareness and
the sharp corners. They are nailed to
the bottom of the box with brads, care
being taken to have the end grain of
each block at the end of the box, par-
ticularly if the metal trimmings do
not cover the blocks.

The cover is fixed in place with small
plain butts, countersunk into the wood,
one leaf into the top and the other into
the back of the box. A simpler method
is to set both leaves of the hinge into
the edge of the back. Care must be
taken in fitting the hinges that they are
set in line with the back of the box,
and holes for the screws should be
made before driving them into place.
Too much care cannot be taken with
the fitting of the hinges, as the proper
fitting of the lid, both as to resting
level and being in line with the edges
of the box, depends on the fitting of
the hinges.

After the construction work and
nailing is completed, the box may be
sandpapered carefully, rubbing in the
direction of the grain, and being care-
ful not to round ofif the edges unduly.
The oversandpapering of woodwork
marks the work of the careless novice.

The box should be handled as little as
possible while the metal trimmings are
being fitted, and, before the finish is
applied, should be gone over lightly
with sandpaper to remove dirt. When
the metal pieces are fitted, and ready
to be fastened in place, the finish may
be applied to the box. Warm browns,
or other dark-oak finishes, are best
suited to the simple style of chest, and
the metal fittings. A coat of stain
should be applied, and this followed,
when dry, by a coat of filler, rubbed
well into the pores of the wood. The
filler should be permitted to dry hard,
and the surface is then sandpapered
very lightly with a fine grade of paper
— No. 00 is best. Do not rub through
the filler or stain, particularly at the
corners. Wax is the most readily ap-
plied outer finish. Several coats may
be used to give a substantial finish. A
coat of shellac, followed by coats of
rubbing varnish, dried well and rubbed
between coats with No. 00 sandpaper,
may be applied for a high-gloss finish.
This is a more involved process and re-
quires that the varnish be rubbed down
with pumice stone and water, and fin-
ished with an oil polish.

Copper or brass, of No. 20 gauge or
lighter, is suitable for the making of
the trimmings. The details of the
handles are shown in the sketch, at the
right. Cut a back plate, % in. by I'/i
in., and fit the handle of wire to it by
means of a strap, bent from a strip of
metal, % in. by Ys in. The other bands
are merely strips, 1/4 to % in. in width,
and fitted to the size of the box, where
applied. Strap hinges of the same
metal may be made, but the most con-
venient method for the amateur is to
fit the metal strips into place at the
hinges, merely as ornamental features.
\'arious types of locks may be fitted
into the box, and for the worker having
the necessary skill, it is interesting to
make a hasp, as indicated in the sketch.

The designing and making of the
metal trimmings afifords unlimited op-
portunity for originality, and a good
plan is to fit the desired strips, cut
from paper, to the box before making
them of the metal. It is well to re-

289

member, in this connection, that the
simple bands and forms are better
suited to the plain box than ornate
trimmings. Having determined upon

finish may also be obtained. The metal
should be polished with wax to pre-
serve the finish if other than the latter
type is used.

DETAIL OF HANDLE

The Construction of the Jewelry Box Is Typical of the Others. The Handle is Shown in Detail,
of the Bottom and the Fitting of the Lining are Shown at the Right

The Nailing

suitable patterns for the metal strips,
cut them from the sheet with snips, or
tinner's shears, care being taken to
produce a smooth edge. A file may be
used to remove roughnesses and to
round the edges of the metal slightly.
The metal is fastened with escutcheon
pins, which add to the ornamental
effect if properly spaced. Holes for
them must be drilled, or punched,
through the metal.

The metal may be left smooth and
polished, or hammered with the round
end of a ball-peen hammer, to produce
the dented effect shown on several ot
the boxes in the group. This, as well
as other finishing of the metal, must be
done before it is fixed in place. Beau-
tiful colors may be given to the metal
by heating it, and observing the colors
as they "run." A trial will enable one
to judge the proper heat for the various
colors, which "run" from a light straw
to a deep purple, with various reddish
intermediate tones. A brown oxidized
finish, or a verd-antique — greenish —

The boxes are lined with silk or
other suitable material. The method
is as follows : Cut cardboard pieces
to fit against the inner sides of the
bottom, sides, and ends. Pad one side
of them with cotton batting, and cover
with silk, gluing the edges of it on the
back of the cardboard, as shown in the
sketch. By bending the pieces slightly,
they may be inserted and glued in
place. Care must be taken ii: handling
the glue, that the silk is not soiled.
Pads of felt, or chamois skin, may be
glued to the bottom of the feet of the
box, so as not to mar the surface upon
which it rests.

The most popular boxes, which are
especially suitable for gift purposes,
are the jewelry, glove, and handker-
chief boxes. Their dimensions are:
jewelry box, 2^4 by 4 by 7^ in. ; glove
box, 314 by 5 by 13 in.; handkerchief
box, 4 by 6 by 10 in. Other sizes suited
to special purposes may, of course, be
designed readily, and made in walnut,
mahogany, or other cabinet woods.

290

A Piano or Reading Lamp

By WILLIAM E. FINKERNAGEL

THE lamp illustrated was designed
for use in reading, the doing of
hand work at which one is seated in a
chair away from a table lamp, or for
lighting a piano rack. It is light,
readily moved about, easily made, and

This Lamp of Substantial Construction and Pleasing
Design may be Made at Small Cost. The Pedestal
Assembled is Shown at the Left and the Details of the
Parts and of the Metal Frame for the Shade, Above

of pleasing design. It combines con-
struction in wood and metal, is inex-
pensive, and within the range of a care-
ful amateur craftsman. The pedestal
is shown assembled at the left, and
above are detailed sketches of the
parts. The construction of the shade,
which is 18 in. square, is shown at the
right. The central post is 40 in. long
and 2 in. square, and the base meas-
ures 16 in. on the arms.

The stock bill for the lamp is as fol-
lows:

1 piece. 2 by 2 in., oak, for post.

2 pieces, 1 by 3 by 16 in., oak, for base.
1 piece, 1 by 6 by 6 in., oak, for cap.

1 piece, 1 by 4 by 4 in., oak, for column base.
1 piece, 1 by 2 by 3 in., oak, for braces.
Copper or brass strip, 1 in. wide and 3 32 in.
thick, for shade frame. Wire braces for shade.

Make all the pieces, smoothing and
finishing their surfaces with a scraper,
before assembling the parts. The cap
A may be made first. Square the piece
to 6 in. and cut a Vi-'m. chamfer around
the upper edge. Cut the 3 by 3-in.
block on one of its diagonals and
smooth it to form the braces B. Square
the ends of the post C to a length of 40
in., and smooth up the sides. Square
the column base JD to 4 in. and cut a
^iG-in. chamfer around its upper side.

Square up and smooth the cross
arms E and F, for the base, to a width
of 3 in. and a length of 16 in. Bevel
the upper corners 1 in., at an angle of
45°. Bore holes with a V2-Jn. bit to
form the rounded ends of the portions
cut out from the lower sides of the
cross braces. Chisel the wood away
between the holes and smooth the re-
sulting surfaces. The half-lap joint,
by which the cross braces are joined,
may then be made. It should not be
made until the lower portions are cut
out of the cross braces, and the re-
maining portions are made of exactly
the same width. 2io in., according to
the drawing. The joint must be fitted
tightly in what is termed a driving
fit, or it will not be strong enough.

The construction may be assembled
as follows, although several methods
may be adopted that will prove satis-
factory : Fix the cap A to the top of
the post with glue and %-in. dowels,
bored not quite through the cap.
Screws may be used for this purpose,
but they mar the finish of the upper
surface of the cap. Glue the braces
B into the corners to support the cap.
They should be warmed before apply-
ing the glue and rubbed slightly to
bring them into place tightly and to
distribute the glue evenly. Small
brads may be used to nail them in
place, but care must be taken not to
mar the finish.

The column base D may be fixed to
the bottom of the post in the same way
that the cap was fixed at the upper
end. The cross braces E and F, form>»

291

ing the base, should be glued in the
half-lap joint and fixed to the column
base with glue and dowels, or screws
sunk into sockets from the lower side
of the braces.

When the glue has dried, the pedes-
tal should be scraped and cleaned pre-
paratory to a final sandpapering before
applying the stain and varnish.

The arms G for the shade holder are
made of strips of brass or copper, 1 in.
wide and 8% in. long,' bent to the
proper form, as shown in the sketch.
The straight end, 2 in. long, is provided
with two holes through which screws
are fixed into the top of the cap.

The shade is constructed as follows :
Make a 4-in. square, H, of brass strip,
1 in. wide, and solder or rivet it at the
joint. Make the lower square J of the
same material and in the same way,
18 in. on each side. Solder %-in. wire,
of a length that will give the desired
slant to the shade, at the corners of the
squares, forming a rigid frame for the
covering. Cloth or silk may be used
to cover the frame.

The braces for the shade may then
be fastened to the top of the cap, as
shown in the assembly sketch, and
their ends shaped to hold the frame
firmly. The pedestal should be
smoothed ofif immediately preparatory
to finishing, and the sharp edges re-
moved slightly. Care should be taken
in sandpapering, since rubbing across
the grain is ruinous, as is too much
sandpapering. The latter particularly
smacks of the novice. A coat of stain,
one of filler rubbed in thoroughly, a
coat of shellac, and a finish coat of
wax or varnish will give a satisfactory
finish. The shellac and varnish coats
should be permitted to dry thoroughly
and should then be sandpapered lightly
before applying other coats.

The electrical connections for the
lamp may be made from a cord ex-
tension to a socket fixed in the center
of the cap. In some instances it may
be desirable to connect the cord from
a floor socket. In that case the post
should be built up of two pieces of
1-in. thickness, and a groove to admit
the cord made in the center of it.

Sewing Rack Attached to Rocker

A rack like that shown in the illus-
tration is convenient as a support for
articles being sewed or repaired by the

The Swinging Rack Folds under the Arm of the Chair
When Not in Use

home worker. It was made by fasten-
ing two bars from a towel rack to the
arm of the rocker by means of a bolt.
When not in use, the bars are folded
back under the arm of the chair. One
of the bars may be provided with hooks
so that scissors and other sewing requi-
sites may be placed on them. — Mrs. J.
E. AlcCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.

Glass Bottle as a Candle Lamp

A candle may be carried in a glass
bottle, as shown in the sketch, with
little danger of
setting fire to
surrounding ob-
jects, and with-
out permitting
the melted ' wax
to leak upon the
floor. The bot-
tom of the bottle
is cut ofif and the
candle inserted

as shown, the neck affording a con-
venient handle. — Stanley Radclilife,
Laurel, Md.

292

A Folding Wall Desk

To provide an inexpensive desk in a
shop, where space was quite limited,
the folding wall desk shown in the
sketch was devised. It was cut from a
packing box and the hinged lid built
up of boards of better quality. To give
a good writing surface, a piece of heavy
cardboard was fastened to the writing
bed with thumb tacks and may be re-
newed whenever necessary. The in-
side of the desk was fitted with filing
compartments arranged to care for a
large variety
of shop forms
and station-
ery. An i n k-
well ♦holder
made of a
strip of sheet
metal was
fixed to the
end of the
desk and the
bottle sus-
pended in it,
there being
space for ad-
ditional b o t-
tles also. The
hinged 1 i d is
provided with
a hasp and
padlock.
When not in
use the desk
may be tilted
upward and
locked against

The Packing Box, from Which the Desk was Made, is Shown in
Fig. 1. The Dotted Lines Indicate Where It was Cut to Give
the Slanting Writing Surface. The Device in Its Normal Posi-
tion is Shown in Fig. 2: Hooked against the Wall, in Fig. 3. and
with the Lid Raised, Showing the Compartments, in Fig. 5.

the wall with small
catches. By using a T-square against
the left edge of the writing bed, a con-
venient drafting table for shop sketch-
ing is provided.

The detailed construction, for the
making of the desk from stock lumber,
by boys, or amateur workers with tools,
may be carried out as follows : Deter-
mine upon the size of the proposed
desk. Convenient dimensions are 3(1
in. long, 18 in. wide, T in. high at the
back, and 4 in. high at the front. Use
T-s-in. soft wood ; pine and poplar arc
suitable. Cut and shape all the pieces
before beginning the assembling of the

parts. The wood should be planed
smooth and may be sandpapered lightly
when the construction is completed, be-
fore applying a finish. A simple ar-
rangement of the pieces so they can be
nailed together is that shown in the
sketch, which was used in making the
box. First shape the pieces for the
sides, 51^ in. wide at the larger end,
21/4 in- wide at the smaller, and I614
in. long. Clamp the boards together,
or tack them with two wire nails while

shaping them,
so that they
will be exactly
alike. Make a
piece 5V. in.
wide and 30
in. long for
the back, and
one the same
length and 2io
in. wide for
the front.
Kail them to
the ends, as
s h o w n, per-
mitting the
slight excess
material
to project
over the upper
edges of the
s idep ieces.
Trim oft" this
extra stock
with a plane
so that the upper surfaces of the front
and back conform to the slant of the
sidepieces. ]\Iake a strip 4 in. wide
for the upper edge of the desk, to which
the writing bed is hinged. Cut pieces
for the bottom and nail them in place.
Before nailing down the upper hinge
strip the interior fittings should be
made. Use wood not thicker than %
in., and fit the pieces into place care-
fully, nailing them firmly through the
outer faces of the desk. A better
method is to make the pigeonholes or
compartments with a piece of the thin
stock on the ends of the partitions, so
that the compartments are built up as

393

a unit and slid into the desk, no nails
being necessary to hold them.

The lid should be made of sound,
dry stock and glued up of strips about
3 in. wide, to prevent it from warping
or twisting easily. If the person mak-
ing the desk has the necessary skill, it
is best to fix a strip, 2 in. wide, at each
end of the writing bed, to hold the
pieces together and to keep the bed in
shape.

The holder for the inkwell is made
of a 1-in. strip of metal, bent to the
shape shown in Fig. 4, and drilled to
fit small screws. A can is supported
in the holder and the bottle rests in it.

The desk may be finished by paint-
ing it or giving it a coat of shellac and
one of varnish, either after it has been
stained to match adjoining woodwork,
or in the natural color.

Sewing Stand with Workbag in Top

The stand shown in the sketch may
be made by using part nf a small table,
or by building
the framework
especially for the
purpose. It was
made for use in
connection with
sewing and
fancy work, and
provides for the
tools and inci-
dental materials
necessary. The
stand is 28 in.
high and about
15 in. square at
the top. The bag built into the frame
may be made of any strong, suitable
material, and its color should match
the finish of the wooden part. A row
of nails are set in the top edge of the
rails to provide for spools of thread
and thimbles. Scissors and other tools
are placed on the shoulder hooks fas-
tened on the side of the rail.

CWhen paper sticks to a negative dur-
ing printing remove it by soaking it
in the hypo bath, sacrificing the print
rather than the negative.

Toy Paper Warships

With a pair of scissors, pins, and a
newspaper or two, a fleet of warships
can be made to sail the seven seas of

polished floors. Strips of paper, through
which holes at opposite points have
been cut, and pinned together at one
end, as shown in Fig. 1, are used for
the sides of the boat. Rolls of paper
are slipped through the opposite holes,
as shown at Fig. 3, and' provide sup-
port for the deck, which is a flat piece
of paper pointed at the end to fit be-
tween the sides of the craft. A second
deck fitted with funnels and masts, as
shown in Fig. 3, is made of a folded
piece of paper with holes cut through
it for the masts and funnels, which
are rolls of paper. If plain paper is
used, the warships may be made in
several colors, which adds to the effect
of rivalry between the fleets. Other
types of craft may easily be devised,
two of which are shown in Fig. 4. Not
only the youngsters in the household,
but their elders as well, may find not
a little amusement and diversion in the
ni«king of a fleet of such warships,
modeled after battleships, destroyers,
battle cruisers, and other vessels.

Caster Board for Scrubbing and
Floorwork

A board for use in work that re-
quires tedious kneeling, as in scrub-
bing, repairing of sidewalk lights, and
similar work, may be made as follows:
Procure a board, % by 10 by 14 in.,
and pad it with a section of carpet.
Place three casters under it, two being

294

set at the rear and one at the front
edge. If desired, small strips may be
nailed at the sides to prevent the knees
from slipping ofif. Such a device en-
ables the user to move along the floor
easily without injuring the knees. — R.
S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.

A Lamp Cooker

An ordinary circular-wick kerosene
lamp produces enough heat to do con-
siderable cooking, provided the heat is
^,^ properly utilized.

/ '~--^^ A simple and
! "■? practicable meth-

od of converting
such a lamp into

FLOWER -

This Lamp Cooker will Prepare Meats and Vege-
tables Satisfactorily, and Is Useful for
the Camper and in Emergencies

a cooker is as follows: Saw a hole, 12
in. square, in the top of a small table,
or packing box of about the same
height as a table. Cover this with a
piece of sheet metal, having a 4-in.
hole in the center. Place a 5-in. flower-
pot over the hole in the metal, and plug
up the hole in the bottom of the pot
with fire clay or plaster of Paris. Veg-
etables in jars may be set around the
flowerpot to cook slowly and a roast
in a pan on top of it. A wooden box,
or metal pail, large enough to cover the
arrangement, should be placed over it.
Air holes should be provided in the
lower box and in the cover.

To operate the device light the lamp
and when it is burning brightly, place
it under the table, elevating it so that
the top of the chimney is in the center

and barely within the rim of the flower-
pot. Use little water in the vegetables
and keep the caps loosely on the jars.
The roast, if well buttered, will brown
nicely, and while the cooking will re-
quire considerably more time than it
would in a range, the results will be as
good, if not superior. The natural
juices are preserved by the slow cook-
ing at comparatively low temperature.
The cover may be lifted to turn the
meat c«:casionally. This device will
appeal to campers, summer cottagers,
and others. — W. W. Baldwin, New
York, N. Y.

Placing a Miter Box on the Workbench

In placing a miter box on a work-
bench considerable space is often
wasted, and the workman is obstructed.
By raising the miter box on the bench,
mounting it upon two blocks, about 6
in. high and set back about IS in.
from the front of the bench, small
space is utilized, and the tool may be
used as conveniently as otherwise.
The space under the miter box and the
open space in front of it are available
for the disposal of ordinary tools, and
there is no danger of the saw striking
them. By making another stand, the
height of the bearing surface of the
miter box, and moving this about on
the bench, long pieces may be handled
with ease. This stand is removed from
the bench when not in use. — Henry
Simon, Laguna Beach, Calif.

A Book and Document Protector

A device for punching identification
marks in the pages of books or papers,
may be made easily by setting pins into
a small box filled with sealing wax.
The box should be large enough to
accommodate the desired wording
without crowding, leaving about V4 in-
all around the edge. Cut the box, which
may be of cardboard, to a height Vie iri-
less than the length of a common pin.
Mark the words to be punched on a
piece of cardboard which just fits into
the box. Punch holes along the letters
and transfer them to the bottom of the

393

box. Insert pins from the outside
through the bottom of the box and
permit their ends to come out of the
holes in the cardboard guide. Cut away
enough of the guide piece so that the
melted sealing wax can be poured in,
setting the pins firmly. The guide
piece is then removed, exposing the
ends of the pins about Ke 'H- If the
work is carefully done they will be of
uniform length. Place heavy blotting
paper or cardboard under the page
when using the punch. — D. G. Steven-
son, Chicago, 111.

Blotter Attached to Wrist Saves Time

The annoyance of having to look for
a misplaced blotter or to pick it up
each time a sig-
nature is to be
blotted, may be
avoided by the
use of the wrist
blotter shown in
the sketch. It
is made by fold-
ing a piece of
blotting paper, 6 in. wide and 12 in.
long, into three sections. A rubber
band is placed in the fold of the blotter
and passed around the wrist, thus
holding it in place until no longer
needed. When one portion of the
blotter becomes soiled, the folding may
be reversed and a new surface ex-
posed.— Frank W. Roth, Joplin, Mo.

Celluloid Cover for Road Maps

Road maps are easily soiled and torn
unless properly protected, and a satis-
factory case to hold them should pro-
vide for conveniently examining the
map. A piece of transparent celluloid
about twice the size of the map when
folded can be made into a suitable
cover. Fold the celluloid into an
envelope form and rivet or sew the
ends, leaving the fourth edge open.
The map is inserted in the cover with
the desired section uppermost, afford-
ing protection and ready access at the
same time.

Shield for Heater in Chick Brooding
House

A shield of sheet metal, having a
small heater in the center of it, pro-
vides a good
means of warm-
ing a brooding
house for small
chicks. The heat
is radiated from
the shield and
the chicks re-
main at a dis-
tance, seeking a
comfortable tem-
perature. The
device may be
made easily by
cutting a sheet

of metal to form a cone-shaped hood
and fitting it with a vent passing out
through the roof of the house. — Sam-
uel S. Snelbaker, York, Pa.

Kink for Removal of Wall Paper

Removing old wall paper, particu-
larly from the ceiling of a room, is a
disagreeable task ^^^^^^ p^^
at best, and the
device shown in
the sketch aids
in the process. A
board, about IS
in. long and 12
in. w i d e, was
provided with
strips at its
edges and a pad
of flannel was fit-
ted into it. The
device is used by moistening the pad
and applying it to the wall paper. The
paper is loosened thoroughly and may
be removed in pieces of considerable
size. This method has been found
much quicker than that of soaking the
paper with a moistened brush. — J. H.
Moore, Hamilton, Canada.

CA clay pipe may be used as a crucible
for melting small quantities of metal.
The stem is broken off and a plug fitted
into it.

296

A Secret Trinket Case for the Bookshelf

By T. H. LINTHICUM

PRACTICAL use as well as the
novelty of its construction makes
the trinket case shown in the illustra-
tion well worth the time and effort
necessary to make it. \'arious kinds
of wood — preferably of the better cabi-
net varieties — are suited to the design
shown, which was made of /io-in.
stock, like that used in cigar boxes.
The size shown is that of a bound
volume of a magazine like Popular
Mechanics, and may be adapted to
special needs. The back and the cover
slide in grooves, which are not visible
when the "book" is closed, making it
difficult and interesting for one to dis-
cover how the case is opened. The
back may be marked and lettered to
resemble a bound volume closely, and

Make the pieces for the frame of the
box first. If possible, make one strip
of the proper width — 2 in., in this case
-^and long enough for the two ends
and the front. Make another strip 1%
in. wide and long enough for the parti-
tion and false back of the tray. Cut
these to the lengths indicated in the
detailed sketches of the parts. Mark
out the grooves in the end pieces care-
fully and cut them with a saw that
cuts a groove %2 in. wide. The
grooves may be cut by clamping a
straight strip of wood on the surface
of the ends the proper distance from
the top, and sawing cautiously along
the strip to the proper depth. The
grooves across the grain may be cut
similarly, or in a miter box.

FALSE BACK

This Trinket Case Is a Practical Novelty That may be Used as a Secret Container to be Set on the
Bookshelf with Similar Bound Volumes

if special secrecy is desired, it may Glue the pieces of the frame to-
even be covered with leather, in exact gether, taking care that the corners are
duplication of those on a bound set of square. If necessary, place blocks in-
magazines kept in the bookcase with it. side to insure that the clamping will

297

not disturb the right angles of the box.
Shape the bottom and cover pieces
nearly to the final size before gluing
them; then, if small nicks are made
in the edge, they may be removed by a
cut of the plane, when the case is com-
plete. Glue the sliding pieces to the
cover and to the back. This must be
done carefully, and it is convenient to
drive small brads part way into the
second piece, from the inner side, to
prevent the pieces from slipping while
being glued. If proper care is taken,
only a small amount of glue will be
forced out, and this can be removed
with a chisel when dry. The edges
may be trimmed off to their exact size,
and the entire construction given a
final light sandpapering. It is then
ready for the stain and shellac, or other
finish. The parts that slide in grooves
should not be shellacked or varnished,
because this is apt to cause them to
stick.

A Cylinder Reversing Switch

A cylinder reversing switch for small
battery motors may be constructed
cheaply, from a
3-in. length of
broom han-
dle and Yo-m.
boards, as
shown. The
four brushes are
strips of copper.
The contacts on
the moving cyl-
inder are eight
brass tacks, con-
nected as indi-
cated in the diagram. The wires are
insulated with paper where they cross.
The handle is of heavy wire, and two
tacks limit its motion, as shown. The
method of connecting the switch is as
follows, for either a series or shunt
motor: Remove the two wires from
the motor brushes, and connect the
two middle brushes of the switch to
the motor brushes. Connect the wires
removed from the motor brushes to the
outer brushes of the switch. — Claude
Schuder, Sumner, 111.

Summer Radiator Cover Serves as
Cupboard in Winter

Because of the accumulation of dust
on a kitchen radiator in the summer,

This Radiator Cover

IS Built so That Shelves

may be Inserted Quickly for Use as a Cabinet

a cupboard was built over it, and used
at other seasons of the year for the
storage of various articles, by fitting it
with shelves. While in use as a radia-
tor cover, the top of the cupboard pro-
vided a convenient seat. If properly
made, cabinets of this type can be used
in other parts of the home to advan-
tage.

A Safety Spring for Porch Swings

It is often necessary to hang swing-
's porch seats fairly close to sur-
rounding wood-
work, which is
marred by their
swinging too far.
To overcome
this, procure a
coil screen-door
spring and cut it
in two. Bend a
hook on each
cut end, and fas-
ten one of the
springs to the
center of each
of the swing, and to the floor,
permits only gentle swingeing. —
. Hayes, Niagara Falls, Canada.

end
This
F. C

C Proper ventilation of cellars makes it
desirable to provide a screen door on
the cellar entrance.

298

Frying Pan Made of Tin Cover

If you want an egg done to per-
fection try the frying pan made of a
tin cover. It was
intended for
emergency use
only, but proved
s o satisfactory
that I kept it as
a regular fixture.
The wire handle
was fitted to the
rim through two
holes, as shown,
and hooks under
the bottom of the pan, the twisting of
the wires giving the required strength.

TIN COVER-i

Safety Cover for Valves on Gas
Stove

In order to safeguard the valves of
a kitchen gas stove with which chil-
dren might occa-
sionally meddle.

I fitted a sheet-
metal cover over
the valves, as
shown in the
sketch. The
cover is wired to
the feed pipe and is swung forward,
as indicated by the dotted outline,
when not in use. Small catches may
be fixed at each end of the -cover, if
desired. — Leroy Schenck, Mount Ver-
non, N. Y.

A Come-Back Rolling Can

An interesting toy may be made by
fitting a rubber band into a tin can and
weighting it as
shown. When
the can is rolled
on the floor it
will return to its
original place by
reason of the
weight which is
supported on a
string at the middle of the rubber band.
The latter is passed through two holes

at each end of the can, and when the
can is rolled along the floor the elastic
is wound at the middle. The weight
reverses the direction of rolling. — Al-
bert French, Hamilton. Ontario, Can.

Removable Paraffin Covers for Jars

To remove paraffin from the tops of
glasses or jars of preserves, without
getting bits of
the covering into
the contents, is
difficult. When
pouring the
melted paraffin
over the top, put
a small cork in
the center and
let the paraffin
harden around
it, as shown. To remove the cover-
ing, dip the top of the glass in hot wa-
ter. This sealing can be used again
by placing it on the top of hot jelly,
the paraffin melting and adhering to
the glass." — J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia,
Pennsylvania.

A Marble-under-Bridge Game of
Skill

The object of this game is to pass
a marble from one end to the other
of the "road-
way," under the
"bridges," and
over the "in-
clines," without
dropping it. A
stop must be
made at each
hole. The device
is made as follows : Cut two pieces of
wood, 14 by 1% by l"^ in., and join them
to form a right angle. Cut pieces of
cardboard, 4 each, 1% by 2Y2 in- wide,
with a %-in. hole in the center, for in-
clines B, and 1% by 3 in., for bridges
A ; also two pieces 1% in. square for
stops C. Fasten them with tacks as
shown. The marble should be large
enough so that it will rest in the holes
at B.

K4 "5 I Li

;\(1pp\t 0111 P

p D • r c

Dij Oonnie L.onovv

HOMEMADE toys and gifts, as
well as the "treasure boxes" in
which they are contained, ha\e an
added interest both to the one making
and the one receiving them. The holi-
day season makes this work especially
attractive, which affords opportunity
for individuality in construction and
design limited only by the skill of the
worker. The
decorated toys
and the box
described in
detail in this
article are
suggest-
ive only, and
may be adapt-
ed to a large
variety of
forms and de-
signs. The
gorgeous-
ly colored par-
rot and the
gayly capari-
soned rider
and horse
suggest a host
of bird and
animal forms, those having possibili-
ties for attractive coloring being most
desirable. The decorated box shown
in Fig. 7 may be adapted as a gift box,
to be used where its decoration may
be seen, in the nursery, for example,
and may be made in many forms, in
fact as various as cardboard boxes
are. Plant, animal, or geometrical
forms may be used to work out de-
signs, and appropriate color schemes
applied to them. A good plan in de-
termining upon a color scheme is to
use the colors of the flower or other
motif. If the design is not associated

FIG. I

The Outlines for the Horse and
Rider and the Parrot may be Made
by Enlarging These Sketches. The |
Color Scheme Indicated Is Sugges-
tive Only and may be Varied to Suit
Individual Taste

with objects having varied colors — a
geometrical design, for instance — har-
monious colors should be chosen.
These may be bright and contrasting,
as red and green, violet and orange, or
subdued in tone.

A design for a horse and rider,
brightly colored, is shown in Fig. 1.
The form is cut out of thin wood, the

color applied,
and the figure
mounted on
the curved
wire, weight-
ed at one end,
as shown in
Fig. 6. The
toy adds a
touch of color
and novelty to
a room, when
suspended
from the cor-
ner of the
mantel, from
a shelf, or
other suitable
place. Bal-
anced in a
striking atti-
tude, forefeet upraised, even grown-
ups can hardly resist tipping the rider
to see his mount rear still higher. The
parrot shown in Fig. 2 is made simi-
larly, and is weighted at the end of the
tail. The point of balance is at the
feet, which may be fastened to a tra-
peze, or be arranged to perch on a con-
venient place, like that suited to the
horse and rider.

The tools and equipment necessary
for the making of such toys are simple,
and available in most boys' workshops
or tool chests. A coping saw, like that
shown at A, Fig. 3, is suitable for cut-

t /"^

-V-RED

YELLOW fofl

—^YELLOW

OUTLINES *\
BLACK VVHITE-A-

- MARKINGS BLACK -I

n^ \

1 YElLLOWj,^

^NNaa

..f

1 M

sue

5PORT

1 /

FIG. 2

299

300

ting the wood. A fretsaw, operated by
hand, foot or power, may be used, and
such a tool makes this work quite rapid.
To use the coping saw to the best ad-
vantage, particularly if the work is to
be done on a table which must not be
marred, a sawing board should be
made. In its simplest form, this con-
sists of a board, as shown at B, about
y's in- thick, 3i4 in. wide, and 6 in. long,
with one end notched. This is clamped
to the end of the table, as at D, with a
clamp, an iron one of the type shown
at C being satisfactory. Another form
of sawing table especially useful when
it is desired to stand up at the work, is
shown at E in detail and clamped in
the vise at F. It consists of a notched
board, 3]o in. wide, fixed at right angles
to a board of similar width, 11 in. long,
and braced at the joint with a block
about 1% in. square. In using the
coping saw with either of these saw
tables, the wood is held down on the
support, as shown in Fig. 5, and the saw
drawn downward for each cutting
stroke, thus tending to hold the board
more firmly against the saw table. It
is, of course, important that the saw

described may be followed. The wood
must be sawed slowly, especially at the
beginning of a cut. The operator soon
learns the kinks in handling the saw
and wood to the best advantage, and
can then make rapid progress.

An outline drawing of the form to
be cut out of the wood must first be
made, to the exact size that the object
is to be. There is much satisfaction in
working out the form of the animal or
other figure, especially for the boy or
girl who has the time necessary to do
good work. If desired, the figure may
be traced from a picture obtained from
a book, magazine, or other source. Cut
a piece of wood to the size required
for the design, and place a sheet of
carbon paper over it ; or if none is avail-
able, rub a sheet of paper with a soft
pencil, and use this as a carbon paper,
the side covered with the lead being
placed next to the wood. The carbon
paper and the sheet bearing the design
should then be held in place on the
wood with thumb tacks, or pins, and
the transfer made with a pencil, as
shown in Fig. 4. The design should
be placed on the wood so that the

■rf

Kils'H

'3!4"

The Tools Required are Found in Most Boys* Workshops, and a Satisfactory Saw Table may
be Made Easily, as Shown in Detail

be inserted in the coping-saw frame
with the teeth pointing toward the
handle, so that the method of cutting

weaker parts, such as the legs of the
horse, will extend with the length in--
stead of across the grain of the wood.

301

In some instances, where a compli-
cated form is cut out, it is necessary
to use wood of several plies, and where

put on first and the other colors ap-
plied over it, when dry.

Oil paints may be used, and a var-

FiG. 4 Mi.y wm mm tmr fig. 5

The Design is Traced Carefully onto the Wood and Then Cut Out with the Coping Saw, on the Saw Table

this is available it is worth while to
use it for all of this work. For smaller
objects wood Yiq in. thick is suitable,
and stock up to Yj, in. in thickness may
be used. Whitewood, basswood, pop-
lar and other soft, smooth-^grained
woods are suitable.

When the design has been outlined
satisfactorily, place the piece of wood
on the saw table with the design on the
upper side. Holding the wood down
firmly, as shown in Fig. 5, and sawing
in the notch of the saw table, cut into
the edge slowly. Apply light pressure
on the downstroke only, as the up-
stroke is not intended to cut, and turn
the piece to keep the saw on the line
and in the notch. It is important that
the saw be held vertically so that the
edge of the cut-out portion will be
square. With proper care and a little
practice, the edges may be cut so
smoothly that only a light sandpaper-
ing will be required to produce a
smooth edge. When the figure has
been cut out, smooth the edges by
trimming them carefully with a sharp
knife, if necessary, and sandpaper them
lightly to remove sharp corners. A
fine sandpaper, about No. %, is suit-
able for this purpose. The figure is
then ready for painting. The white is

nish or shellac applied over them to
give a high grade of work, but this
process requires much care, consider-
able skill, and long drying between
coats to prevent "runs" in the colors.

Water-color
paint, which
can be pur-
chased in
powder form,
at paint
stores, mixed
with water to
the consisten-
cy of cream,
is a satisfac-
tory coloring
material, and
is easy to ap-
ply. Five
cents' worth
of each of the
colors used —
yellow, red,
blue, black,
and white —
will be suffi-
cient for sev-
eral toys. Mix

each color in a separate saucer, and
use a small water-color brush to apply
the paint. In painting the horse and

FIG. 6

302

rider, the horse is
white, and then
applied after the

first painted entirely % in. The weight of the metal and
the black spots are the curve of the wire should be ad-
color is dry. The justed to obtain the proper balance.

The parrot is balanced in the
same way, except that the
weight is fixed to the end of
the tail, Avhich is curved like
the wire.

These and other homemade
toys or gifts may be sent or
contained appropriately in
boxes decorated to match them,
as shown in Fig. 7. They may
be made complete, or commer-
cial boxes of suitable sizes may
be covered and decorated. If
good materials are used, such
a box makes a pretty and use-
ful gift in itself. The complete
process of making a typical
box is described for those who
prefer to make one of special

the Indi- • rr^t ,• . . *^

1 Gift Size, i he dimensions given are

thus only suggestive, and may
lie adapted to suit particular needs.

The materials necessary are: card-
board, cover paper, lining paper, bond
paper, paste, and water colors. The lat-
ter should be of the opaque variety,
since white or other light shades may
then be used on darker-colored paper.

A Handmade Box Is Interesting in that It Expresses
viduahty of the Maker, Especially When Made as ;

rider's coat is painted red ; the trousers
blue; the hat and leggings buff, as
indicated in Fig. 1. Mix a brushful of
yellow with a brushful of red, and add
about three brushfuls of white. A half
brushful of black may be added to dull
the color, if desired. The flesh tone for
the rider's face is made by mixing a
little red with white. \\'hen the colors
are dry, all edges are outlined with a
heavy line of black, not less than Vs in
in width. This outline may be evenl}
applied with the point of the brush.

The method of making the parrot !■-
similar to that described for the horse
and rider, and the color scheme is sug-
gested in Fig. 2.

It will be noticed that no attempt
is made to secure a lifelike, or realistic,
effect in painting these toy shapes. All
colors are flat, that is, without light
and shade. The toys are really decora-
ti^■e designs, and the maker is at liberty
to use any colors desired, whether nat-
ural or not.

The horse and rider is balanced on
the hind foot, as shown in Fig. 6, b\-
using a lead weight, attached to a Yur
in. wire, as a counterweight. The wire
should be set into the body of the
horse, behind the foreleg, to a depth of

BLACK

PLUM j^B 5T0CK'

CREEN&sH

YELLOW

FIG. 8

pe:o WM

Color Schemes may be Obtained from Flowers and
Other Natural Forms, or by Selecting a Combination
cf Harmonious Shades. The Background Is of Plum-
Colored Paper; the Small Circles are Emerald-Green;
the Light Area, Yellow, and the Ovals, Orange-Red

A sharp knife, a scissors, a metal-edge
ruler, and bookl.Mnder's paste are also
needed. Suitable substitutes for the

303

various kinds of paper may usually be
obtained in the home, if they are not
readily available at local stationery
stores or printing establishments.

from the long edges, and then spread a
thin layer of paste over the outer sur-
face of one of the sides of the box.
Apply the paper to the pasted surface

\^^%^

-5-
G

-3^/4^

1 '.^

SCORE

is?.:

■21

♦

4 i-^

V^ 'i^'-^ <- SCORE

. ■n5?'

1 T I 'a '

- 1

The Various Steps in tbe Process of Making and Covering a Rectangular Cardboard Box are Shown in Detail.
The Method of Malting a Pattern for the Design is Shown Below

The box is made as follows : Deter-
mine upon the proper size and select
materials to carry out the design. An
appropriate combination of colors and
materials is suggested in Fig. 8. Cut
out a square of the cardboard, having
sides 12^2 hi. long, as shown in Fig. 9,
at G, then mark it as indicated and cut
on the full line to remove the square
corners. Crease it on the dotted lines
and fold to form a box. To hold the
cardboard in box shape, strips of bond
paper — ordinary writing paper — are
cut, 334 in- long and 1 in. wide, then
creased along their centers and pasted
to the corners. The paste should be
applied to the paper strip first, then on
the corners of the box. Apply the piece
of paper over the corner of the box on
the outside, pressing it to make a snug
fit. Repeat this operation on the other
corners.

Lay off the dimensions given at H
on the selected color of cover paper,
which in this instance is plum, and
score the lines indicated. Spread paste
smoothly over the surface of the plum
paper, between the lines drawn % in.

and press it down, rubbing gently out
from the center to remove air bubbles.
Fold the %-in. laps at the top and bot-
tom over the upper edge of the box and
around the lower corner. Repeat this
process, covering the four sides. To
form a smooth fold at the corners, it
is best to miter the paper as shown at
J and K, before pasting it down. Then
paste a square of the same paper 4%
in. wide on the bottom of the box, tak-
ing care to match the edges evenly all
around.

Line the box with a strip of lining
paper, 20 in. long and 4 in. wide. Try
the lining by folding it into the box so
that its upper edge is about % in. from
the edge of the box, and crease it care-
fully into the corners. Remove it, ap-
ply paste, and press it well into the
corners when pasting it down. Paste
a square of the same paper, 4% in.
wide, in the bottom of the box.

The cover is made by the same proc-
ess as the main portion of the box. The
dimensions of the cardboard are shown
at L, and the covering at M. It should
be observed that the cover is slightly

304

wider than the box, so that it will fit
easily.

When the box is thoroughly dry, it
is ready to receive the decorations on
the top and sides. The design may be
adapted from a leaf, flower, or similar
form, as well as from geometric or ani-
mal forms. The horse and rider, the
parrot, and the animals shown in the
headpiece of this article are all sug-
gestive of animal forms that are avail-
able.

The design shown on the box in Fig.
7 was adapted from a flower form, two
of the units being joined for the deco-
ration on the top. To obtain a pattern
for the design, fold a piece of paper,
2 by 4 in., as shown at N, and outline
one-half of a leaf, flower or similar mo-

tif. Cut the folded paper as at O, and
a pattern similar to that shown at P
results. Trace around this to place the
figure on the box. Outline the figure
with black, about Vs in. wide, as at Q.
The oval figures, suggestive of small
pods on a flower, are also outlined in
black, and joined to the main portion
of the design by a black line. Thinner
black lines are drawn vertically across
the form, and small circles placed along
them at intervals. The color scheme
is shown in Fig. 8. The light back-
ground is yellow, the small circles are
emerald-green, and the ovals red-
orange. The rim of the cover is deco-
rated with a border of white ovals, out-
lined in black. The corners are banded
in black and white as shown in Fig. 7.

Care and Storage of Camp Equipment

A slovenly sportsman misses much
of the joy of the man who takes pride
in giving his outfit the proper care, not
only during its period of use, but also
during the winter, when occasional
overhauling serves to keep one in touch
with sports of other seasons. And a
very real joy it is, each article recalling
an experience as one examines it mi-
nutely for a possible rust spot, scratch,
or injury.

Tents usually come in for much
abuse, which shortens their life con-
siderably. Cotton duck molds quickly,
and rots if left rolled up damp. Care
should be taken, therefore, to insure
its perfect dryness before storing. Silk
and silk-composition tents, being
thoroughly waterproof, are almost as
dry after a rain or dew as before, so
may be packed for moving at any time.
But all tents and tarpaulins should be
washed and dried carefully after the
season's use.

Blankets absorb much moisture, and
should be shaken and spread out over
bushes to dry in the sun, at least once
a week. In the cold nights of late
summer, the increased warmth of
blankets after drying is considerable.

Pack straps and ropes should not
be left exposed to the weather. They

speedily become hard or brittle ; squir-
rels like the salt they can obtain by
chewing the leather, and if left on
the ground in a rabbit country, the
straps are soon cut into bits. Hang the
leather goods in the peak of the tent,
keep them away from fire, and oil them
occasionally.

A canoe should not be left in the
water overnight, or at any time when
it is not in use. Simply because use
makes it wet, a canoe should not be
left so any more than a gun should be
left dirty, or an ax dull. If on a cruise
with a heavy load, pile the stuff on
shore at the night camp, and turn the
canoe over it. If a canoe is permitted
to remain in the water unnecessarily,
or its inside exposed to rain, it soon be-
comes water-soaked and heavy for
portage, besides drying out when ex-
posed to the sun, and developing leaks.

Small punctures in the bottom of a
canoe may be mended with spruce,
tamarack, or pine gum, melted into
place with a glowing firebrand, held
close, while blowing at the spot to be
repaired. Torn rags of canvas-covered
bottoms may be glued with the softer
gum of new "blazes," gathered with a
knife or flat stick.

While traveling on shallow streams,
the bottom of a board canoe develops a
"fur" of rubbed-up shreds. Every

305

night these should be cut short with
a sharp-pointed knife, to prevent a
shred from pulling out and develop-
ing into a large splinter. The paddles,
and the setting pole, unless shod with
iron, become burred at the ends and
require trimming down to solid wood

The track line, if in use, is wet most
of the time, and unless dried fre-
quently, becomes rotten. Every tracker
knows the grave danger with a rotten
line in a rapids.

During the winter the canoe should
be scraped and sandpapered, bulges
nailed down, permanent repairs made
to the covering, and the canoe painted
on the exterior and varnished on the
interior.

The average fisherman is an en-
thusiast who needs no urging in the
matter of caring for his outfit, and the
user of firearms should profit by this
example. Even if not a shot has been
fired from a gun all day, moisture from
the hands, or from the dampness in
the woods, or marshes, may cause rust
spots, or corrode the bore. Rub an oily
rag through the bore and over the out-
side of the gun every evening, before
laying it aside.

Cleaning rods are safer and more
thorough in cleaning the bore than
the common mouse string, which may
break when drawing a heavy piece of
cloth through, causing much difficulty.
A wooden rod, preferably of hickory,
is best, although the metal rod is
stronger for use in small bores, but
care must be taken not to wear the
muzzle unduly. The hunting weapons
should he carefully overhauled before
storing them, and given a coat of oil
to protect the metal parts from rust.—
A. M. Parker, Edmonton, Can.

tical uses as well. In a store or other
place where a person on duty cannot
watch all parts of the establishment,

Useful Periscope Which a Boy
Can Make

Mention of periscopes is quite com-
mon in the reports from European
battle fields ; such a device in a simple
form can be made easily by boys who
have fair skill with tools. The illus-
tration shows a periscope which may
be used for play, and has other prac-

SIDE VIEW FRONT VIEW

This Simple l-enscope Is Useful Both for Play and

Practical Purposes

such a device is convenient in that it
will reflect persons entering the door.
As a toy or for experimental purposes
the periscope shown has many possi-
bilities, and will appeal to youngsters.
It consists of a square box, 18 in.
long, open at the ends. It is 314 in.
wide and made of wood, % in. thick.
A mirror is fitted at an angle of 45° near
one end of the box or tube, as shown in
the sketch. The front of the mirror is
opposite a three-cornered opening in
the box which extends across one side.
The opposite end of the tube is also
fitted with a mirror in the same man-
ner, except that the front of the mirror
faces to the opposite side of the box
at which there is also an open-
ing. In using this device, the user
sights from the point indicated by the
eye. The image is reflected in the
mirror at the top and thrown onto
the lower mirror, where it may be seen
without exposing the head above the
level of the lower opening. It is this
application of reflection by mirrors that
makes it possible for soldiers to see dis-
tant objects without exposing them-
selves to fire, by the use of the peri-
scope.

306

Trap for Coyotes

I'wo coyotes, resisting capture in a
hole under a lava ledge, were hauled
forth quickly when the device shown

By Drawing on the Wire the Coyotes were Brought
under Control and Forced from Their Lair

in the sketch was used, after other
means had proved ineffective.

I made a snare of baling wire and
attached it to a pole, 6 ft. long, running
the wire down from the loop to the
end of the handle. The loop was made
about twice the size of the coyote's
head, and, by drawing on the wire at
the handle, the animals were placed
under control and held at a safe dis-
tance.— Contributed by Alilton Barth,
Geyserville, Cal.

Utilizing an Empty Paste Pot

The type of paste pot that contains
a central well to hold the paste brush
is not always cast aside when empty.
A pincushion built to fit the outer ring,

A Pincushion Built to Fit the Empty Paste Compart-
ment Malics a Useful Article of the Paste Pot

or paste-holding section, is added and
the brush holder is used to hold pens
and pencils.

CA magnet may be used to advantage
in picking up tacks or small nails which
have been scattered on a floor.

A Colonial Mirror Frame

Black walnut, or mahogany, is tlie
most eft'ective wood to use in making
this simple but artistic frame. It re-
quires a very small amount of stock,
and what is used should be of a good
quality and carefully worked to the
given dimensions with keen tools. The
stock required for the frame is as
follows :

Black walnut, or mahogany :
2 pieces, 27 J'^ in. long, IJ^ in. wide, and ^

m. thick.
1 piece, 22 in. long, 1^ in. wide, and ^ in.

thick.
1 piece, 9% in. long, 1)^ in. wide, and 'A in.
thick.

White holly:
1 piece, 27J^ in. long, 1>4 in. wide, and Vie in.
thick.

Picture board :^
1 piece, 25 in. long, 9 in. wide, antj l& in.
thick.

The dimensions for the walnut or
mahogany pieces are rough sizes, over-
size to allow for the planing to the di-
mensions given in the sketch. The
white holly may be procured smoothly
planed on both sides and of the e.xact
thickness required. The picture back-
ing may be purchased in almost any
store that sells frames. It is usually
rough pine and inexpensive.

The first operation is to plane the
frame pieces on one side and edge,
using great care to insure both being
perfectly straight and the edge square
with the face. Gauge for, and plane to
the thickness required, although this
need not be exactly % in. as called for,
but if the stock will stand ^Yio in. or ^^
in. do not take the time to cut it down
to % in. The little cross rail mvist be
exactly Ys in. thick, as it is to be let
Ys in. into the rabbet cut for the glass,
which makes it come % in. back from
the face of the frame when it is in
place. Plane all of these pieces to the
width, lYs inch.

For cutting the rabbet, a plow, or a
•^4-in. grooving, plane is the best tool
to use, but if neither is available a rab-
bet plane can be used. Be sure to
plane the rabbet square and to the
lines gauged for the depth and width.

To groove the pieces for the holly
strips a special tool is required. This
may be made of a piece of soft sheet

307

steel or iron, which must be of a thick-
ness to correspond to that of the holly.
A piece 21/2 i"- ^ong, and of almost any
width, win answer the purpose. File
one edge of the metal straight, and cut
saw teeth in it by filing straight across
with a small saw file. Remove the burr
raised by the filing by rubbing each
side on an oilstone. Drill two holes
in it for fastening with screws to a
piece of hard wood. The wood serves
as a fence, and if properly fastened to
the metal, the teeth should cut a groove
YiQ in. deep and 'fie in. from the edge.
The holly strip should fit the groove
tightly so that it can be driven home
with light taps of a hammer. It is
well to try the tool on a bit of waste
wood first to see if it cuts the groove
properly.

The holly is cut into strips, % in.
wide, with a slitting gauge. An ordi-
nary marking gauge, with the spur
filed flat on each side to make a sharp,
deep line, will do very well for this
work. The gauging is done from both
sides of the piece to make the spur cut
halfway through from each side. Be-
fore the slitting is attempted, one edge
of the piece is first straightened. This
is readily accomplished with a fore
plane, laid on its side and used as a
shoot plane. The strip to be planed is
laid flat on a piece of %-u-i. stock with
one edge projecting slightly. This
raises it above the bench and allows
the fore plane to be worked against the
projecting edge.

The strips should be applied to the
groove to test the fit, and if found to
be tight, they must be tapered slightly
by filing or scraping the sides. If the
fit is good, hot glue may be run into
the grooves with a sharp stick, and the
strips driven into place. They will
project above the surface slightly,
but no attempt • should be made to
plane them off flush until the glue has
become thoroughly hardened ; then use
a sharp plane, and finish with a scraper
and No. 00 sandpaper.

The miters are cut in a miter box,
or planed to the exact 45° angle on a
miter shoot board. Before gluing the
corners, the recesses are cut for the

cross rail, hut it must not be put in
place until the corners of the frame

An Inlay of Holly Makes an Exceedingly Pretty
Frame of Colonial Design for a Mirror

have been fastened and the glue given
time to dry.

The frame may be given either a
dull or bright finish. The dull finish
gives a rich appearance and is very
easy to apply. Give the completed
frame one coat of white shellac, and
when it is dry, rub the surface with
very fine sandpaper until it has a
smooth finish. Finish with any of the
prepared waxes, being careful to fol-
low the directions furnished.

Before putting the board back of the
mirror, be sure to place two or three
sheets of clean paper on the silvered
surface. The picture board is fas-
tened with glazier's points, or with
small bung-head wire nails. The back
is finished by gluing a sheet of heavy
wrapping paper to the edges of the
frame. If the wrapping paper is mois-
tened with a damp cloth before it is
applied, it will dry out smooth and
tightly drawn over the back.

CAn emergency penholder may be
made by fixing the pen on the end of
a pencil with a clip, or small rubber
band.

308

A Turntable Stand for Potted Flowers

Potted flowers, if kept in the house,
tend to grow toward the light. From
time to time the
pot should be
turned. To do
this more .read-
ily, the turntable
stand shown in
the sketch was
designed. It is
made up of a
low, four-legged
t a b o r e t upon
which a 12-in.
disk of 1-in.
wood is fixed
with a screw. A
thin wooden
washer, sand-
papered and
shellacked, in-
sures easy turn-
mg. Rectangular boxes or circular
jars look equally well upon the stand,
the beauty of which depends much
upon its workmanship and finish. —
Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.

TURN-
TABLE

Endex for Popular Mechanics Magazine
on Bookshelf

As it would be impossible to keep in
one's mind all the good ideas given in
Popular Me-
chanics Mag-
azine, I preserve
my back num-
bers for refer-
ence, and, to re-
duce the amount
of index and
page searching,
I have adopted
a convenient
plan of indexing
any special ar-
ticle to which I
expect to refer.
I write, on one
end of a strip of paper, the page and
date of issue of the article. I place
these slips at the proper pages in the
magazine, so as to project at the top.

as shown, making reference easy. If
a slip drops out, it is quickly replaced.
When articles are no longer needed
for reference, the slips are removed.
By keeping the magazines on an open
shelf they can be reached handily, for
reference as well as for removing them
from the shelf. — J. E. McCormack,
Haliburton, Ont., Can.

Trimming Board with Foot Control
and Counterweight

A trimming board with the knife
operated by a pedal, leaving both hands
free to handle
the work, is a de-
vice appreciated
by p h o t o g r a-
phers, commer-
cial artists, and
others who have
more or less
heavy paper or
c a r d b oard to
trim. An ordi-
nary trimming
board is mounted
on a packing box
of suitable
as shown. A pedal is

-*^

dimensions

hinged to the bottom of the box, and
a heavy cord, or wire, runs to the
handle of the knife, so that pressure
on the pedal operates the knife. The
latter is returned by a weighted rope,
passing over a pulley attached to a
standard at the rear corner. — H. F.
Blanchard, New York, N. Y.

Folding Card Table Handy
for Invalid in Bed

When it is necessary to serve a meal
to a patient in bed, and no invalid
table is at hand, use an ordinary fold-
ing card or serving table. Unfold one
end over the bed, and a splendid sub-
stitute table is provided, useful for
reading, games, and other purposes. If
the table rests too low on the bed,
adjust it with cushions. This is far
more convenient than using a tray. —
John P. Rupp, Norwalk, Ohio.

Morris Chair with Newspaper Rack, and Smoker's Trays

By J. E. BRONSON

A COMFORTABLE and novel
after-dinner chair for the man in
the household can be made by fitting a
morris chair, or other
armchair, with devices
which appeal especially
to a man. The chair
shown is that of the
ordinary mission mor-
ris type. It is of simple
outline and can be
made by the home me-
chanic of fair skill in
furniture making. The
details of its construc-
tion, while not essen-
tial to A description of
the special fittings, are
shown in the several
working drawings. The
joints used for the
framework are of the
common mortise-and-
tenon variety. The
back is a plain frame,
fitted with vertical
slats, and hinged to a
shoulder in the back
legs, as shown in the
side view. For a sub-
stantial piece of furni-
ture, oak or other
hard wood should be used ; as a piece
of porch or summer-cottage furniture,
the chair may be made of softer woods.
The cushion can be made of various
leathers, or upholstery fabrics. It is
built over a wooden frame and is
removable. The seat bottom may be
paneled, and a loose cushion fitted into
it, and a similar one bound with thongs
to the back of the chair.

The drawer is slightly different from
the standard construction in that the
front is arranged as a blind rail. It
fits snugly between the front legs and
is suspended from strips fitted between
the pairs of legs at the sides.

No handle is provided, as the drawer
can be opened easily by grasping it
underneath the front board. Pipes,
smoker's supplies, or a variety of other
articles may be stored handily in it.

The newspaper rack, as detailed, is
made up of strips forming a basket,
which is supported by a rod pivoted in

DtTAlL OF KjEVi/SPAPER RACK

FRONT VIEW

These Novel Features of a Morris or Armchair Increase Its Comfort
and Usefulness, and can be Made Easily by the Home Mechanic

wooden hangers, one on each of the
side legs, adjoining the rack. When
papers are not being taken out or
placed in it, the rack is tilted back
against the side of the chair arm. The
ash and tobacco trays, which may be
made large enough for cigars, are sus-
pended under the right chair arm by
means of rings made of strips of brass.
These holders are pivoted on bolts, and
the trays can be removed easily for
cleaning. They are ordinarily swung
out of the way, under the arm. The
special features of the chair may also
be adapted to the needs of nonsmokers.

CThe nuisance of soiled fingers and
pen grip in lettering, when using a deep
ink bottle, can be avoided by filling a
bottle up to the neck with cement, and
using only the neck as an inkwell.

309

310

Homemade Talking-Machine Cabinet

An old six-foot folding screen, three-
ply Vi-in- panels from a packing box,

This Cabinet was Made by an Amateur Woodworker at a Cost
oi $16.35 for Materials

and parts from secondhand talking ma-
chines, were used to make the cabinet
shown in the photograph reproduced.
The screen was cut down to form a

framework of the desired height for tht
sides and back. Other parts of the
screen were used for the frames of the
doors on the front, and for the top. The
panels were made from a good
quality of three-ply stock, with
a hardwood face, which was
scraped, sandpapered, and
brought to a very smooth fin-
ish. The material happened to
have a pretty grain, and this
added to the elifect when it was
stained and varnished. Pieces
of this stock were used for the
sounding horn and for other in-
terior fittings, such as the
shelves for records and the
drawer below the horn. Space
is provided for a large supply
of records.

A secondhand two - spring
motor, a turntable, and a sound
arm from a disk machine were
fitted into the cabinet, and gave
excellent service. Care in
staining the woodwork, shel-
lacking, and varnishing it with several
coats, gave the cabinet almost a com-
mercial finish, and at a cost of $16.35
for all materials.

Eggshells as Flowerpots

A novel method of caring for small
plants until they are ready to be set out
in the garden is shown in the photo-
graph reproduced. Holes were bored
in the bottom of the till of an old trunk
and eggshells fitted into them. Seeds

Seeds were Planted in the Eggshells, Which were

Broken without Disturbing the Roots

When Transplanted

were planted in the shells and the
names of the varieties were marked on

them. The arrangement is compact,
and when the plants are ready for
planting, the shells may be broken, and
the plants set without disturbing
the roots. — Charles Darlington, Des
Moines, la.

A Recording Annunciator Target

In rifle practice it is often desirable
to provide a target which will indicate
to the marksman when the bull's-eye
is struck. The device shown in the
sketch, arranged behind an ordinary
card target, has given satisfactory re-
sults on a private range, and can easily
be adapted for other uses.

Referring to Fig. 1, A indicates a
wooden base, 4 by 8 by i/^ in., on which
is mounted a strap hinge, B, GYn in.
long, by means of a block, 1^(^ in. high.
An opening, C, 1^2 in. in diameter, is
provided in the base, and a plate, D,

311

1% in. square, is riveted to the strap
hinge opposite to the opening. An
electromagnet, E, obtained from an
electric bell, is mounted upon the base
under the small end of the hinge. A
standard, F, provided with a cross arm,
G, is secured upon the base between
the opening and the magnet. A thumb-
screw with a locknut extends through
the cross arm, engaging the rear side
of the strap hinge, and permits an ad-
justment of distance between the core
of the magnet and the surface of the
hinge. A bell or buzzer, H, is con-
nected as indicated, through the bat-
tery circuit. The electromagnet is con-
nected through the battery and push
button J.

The strap hinge normally rests
against the electromagnet. The force
of any projectile passing through the
opening against the plate closes the
bell circuit and indicates to the marks-
man that the bull's-eye has been hit.
By the closing of the magnet circuit,
the strap hinge is drawn again into
normal position and the bell circuit is
broken. Figure 2 shows a front view
of the circuit-closing device. The de-
vice may be mounted in any suitable
box, as suggested in Fig. 3. The front

ael (7*

r ® \
/o o\

e S)

The Bullet Forces the Hinge against the Thumb-
screw, Causing the Bell to Ring

of the box is covered with sheet metal,
YiCt in. thick, and the standard target
card is mounted thereon. — John B.
Brady, Washington, D. C.

Scraper for Tennis Court

In order to level and scrape a tennis
court, which was in bad condition, the
two-man scraper shown in the sketch

A Tennis Court was Smoothed and Leveled by the

Use of This Scraper, Made Quickly of

Rough Lumber

was made. It is built of rough lumber,
and a metal shoe is fixed to the lower
edge of the scraping blade at the rear.
The bearing at the front is on a flat-
bottom sled of wood, and the depth of
the cut is regulated by pressure on the
handle. The scraping blade is set at
an angle, as shown in the smaller
sketch. By lifting the handle slightly,
the operator is able to deposit dirt in
holes so that when the court is rolled
they are filled evenly. Where a large
number of courts are to be smoothed,
the device may be adapted and made
large enough to be drawn bv a horse. —
Ed\vard R. Smith. Walla W'alla, Wash.

CA convenient method of holding pa-
per in a roll is to fasten a wire clip at
each end near the edge of the piece.

Barrel Staves as Springs for Play Auto

I made springs for a small foot-
power automobile by using barrel
staves joined together in the shape of
pointed oval wagon springs. Two
strong staves were nailed together at
each end and braced with a block
where they were nailed. Two of these
springs were placed over the rear axle
and one of them was set over the front
axle extending in the direction of its
length. The wooden springs made the
automobile ride comfortably. — Charles
Delbridge, St. Louis, Mo.

313

Hall Seat with Storage Compartment

The illustration represents a simple
design for an easily made and substan-
tial hall seat, provided with a compart-

Details Showing the Construction of a Hall Seat
to be Made in Mission Style

ment for odds and ends. It is advisable
to make it of wood to match its sur-
roundings. The following material is
necessary :

2 ends, H by 14 by 28 in.

2 rails. Vs by 6 by 38 in.

1 seat board, % by 14 by 36;^ in.

1 bottom board j| by 12J4 by 36^^ in.

2 seat cleats. % by ^ by 1254 in.
2 bottom cleats, ?i by ?| by IV/, in.

The two ends, A, are marked to the
same outline and cut with a coping or
scroll saw. If a fine-tootbed saw is
used, the edges of the boards can be
easily smoothed with sandpaper, other-
wise a file is necessary to remove the
coarse saw traces. The rails B are cut
to size and squared up at the ends, after
which they can be placed at the proper
places on the ends A, which may then
be marked for the notches to receive
the rails. In fastening the rails to the
end pieces, 2-in. round-head screws can
be used. The seat C is attached to the
back rail by 2-in. butt hinges. To pre-
vent the seat from sagging in the mid-
dle, it is supported on each side by
cleats screwed to the end pieces A. If

the seat is liable to warp it can be held
straight by two cleats screwed under-
neath. The bottom board D may be
held in place by means of screws
through the rails, or by resting on
cleats screwed to the end pieces. The
seat, when assembled and thoroughly
sandpapered, can be finished to suit.

Putting In Screw Hooks Neatly

To prevent a wire hook, when the
last few turns are given, from marring
or scratching the surface, special care
must be taken. A splendid way to do
the work neatly is to first lay a piece of
stiff paper on the surface where the
hook is to be attached and hold it in
place while starting the screw hook.
Turn the hook in the usual way through
the paper. When the hook is in place
the paper can be removed by tearing it
oft. — Contributed by Eniile Parent.

A Window Ventilator

The illustration shows a ventilator
I constructed to allow air to pass
through between the upper and lower
window sash. It consists of a board
8 or 10 in. wide, and as long as the
window sash is wide. A short dis-
tance from one end it is marked and
cut on a slant. The small piece re-
moved is hinged to the main part so
that it can be raised in taking the board

A Removable Window Board to Raise Lower Sash
ior Ventilation between the Sashes

from the window. When the sash
rests on the board it cannot be re-
moved from the window. — Con-
tributed by David Hannigan, Orange,
Connecticut.

'r i -K

An Inexpensive Gluing Press

By N. E. STUDEBAKER

THE floor space in our high-school
shop is somewhat limited, leaving
no room on the floor for the gluing
press, and during a large part of the
year the temperature on the floor is too
low for gluing. We met these condi-
tions with the gluing press illustrated.
Three pairs, or sets, of steps. A, were
made of pine, 3 in. thick, and fastened
in a series by strips B, so that they all
would move forward or backward be-
tween the guides C, which are nailed
to the floor above the shop. On one
of the steps — the corresponding one in
each pair — rests a piece of wood, D,
4 in. wide and 2 in. thick, through
which, near its ends, are bored holes
to receive lengths of 1-in. gas pipe, E.
Over these holes and screwed to the
wood piece are 1-in. floor flanges, F.
The pipes E are threaded at one end
so that they will screw through the
floor flanges about 3 in. On the other

ends of the gas pipes are fitted pieces
of material, 4 in. wide and 3 in. thick,
G, resting on washers, which in turn
rest on the locknuts H. The locknuts
H prevent the tees J from unscrewing
in operating the press. A rod is used
through the tees as a handle for screw-
ing the pipes E on or out of the floor
flanges F. On top of the pieces G rests
the floor K, on which are placed the
pieces to be glued. On the under side
of the ceiling joists, and directly over
the floor K, is spiked the 3-in. piece L,
between which piece and the floor K
the material is pressed. For the sake
of stift'ness and lightness the floor K is
built up of 1-in. material, as shown in
the detail. This floor may be raised or
lowered by the windlass M. The wind-
lass is simply a %-in. gas pipe turning
in bearings fastened to the under side
of the ceiling joists.

Supposing the press to be standing

The Gluing Press is Attached to the Ceiling Where It Is Out of the Way and Where the Temperature Is
More Correct for Making a Strong-Holding Joint

313

314

as shown in the drawings, it is oper-
ated as follows : The pipes E are un-
screwed so that their upper ends are
flush with the top surface of the floor
flanges F. The ropes N are wound up
a trifle on the windlass M, thus rais-
ing the pieceb D, the pipes E, and the
floor K. Lifting D clear of the steps
releases the latter so that the entire
series may be moved to the right by
pulling the rope O. In unwinding the
ropes from the windlass, D is let down
on the lowest step, which has just been
drawn directly under it. This opera-
tion lowers the floor K to its lowest
limit and the pieces to be glued are
placed, one on the other, on this floor.
If the total thickness of the material

to be glued is sufficient to nearly fill
the space between the floor and the
piece L, a rod is thrust through J, and
the pipes are screwed up, thus press-
ing the material between the floor K
and the piece L. If, however, the ma-
terial does not fill the space well, then
the ropes N are wound up on the wind-
lass M, thus raising the floor and its
contents as far as possible, and by pull-
ing the rope P the steps are drawn as
far to the left as possible and D rests
on a higher step, thus lessening the
space to be taken up by the screws.
The pipes are then screwed up tightly
as in the first operation. Our press is
operated from a mezzanine floor where
all the gluing is done.

A Luminous-Minnow Fish Bait

Make a plug of light wood, prefer-
ably cedar or white pine, 1% in. long
and % in. in diameter at the large end.

Bait Shaped Like a
Minnow and Coated
^ with Luminous Paint
for Night Fishing

tapering to i/i in. at the small end.
Finish it to the shape of a minnow
and bore a Yie-'m. hole, 1 in. deep, in
the large end. Make a lead plug,
with a hole through the center, to
drive tightly into the hole in the head
of the minnow, and finish the front end
smooth and even with the wood. Run
a wire through the minnow and form
an eye at the tail for hooks, and an-
other at the head for the swivel. A
three-cornered piece of tin inserted Y^
in. back of the head on each side and
bent so that the water will cause it to
turn gives motion to the lure.

Two coats of luminous paint will
be sufficient for the illumination. Ex-
pose the minnow to the light for sev-

eral hours, and it will give a luminous
glow in the dark that makes it easily
seen by the fish as it is drawn through
the water. As most game fish are night
feeders, it makes a very effective
lure. — Contributed by Charles Carrol,
Saint Cloud, Fla.

To Prevent Putty Sticking to the
Hands

When purchasing putty buy a little
whiting. This is one of the ingredients
of the putty. Mix enough of it with
the putty to absorb the excess oil.
This will prevent it from sticking to
the hands. It also gives the putty more
body and makes it much easier to
handle.

Signal for Lighted Lights in Basement

To avoid the loss of electric current
by forgetting to turn out the light in
the basement, I placed a 3-cp. lamp in
the circuit near the switch at the head
of the stairs. The small light is a sig-

S\A/ITCH

3.C.PLAMP

TO CELLAR

The Small Lamp near the Switch in Circuit Glows
When Lights Are On in the Basetnent

nal that the light is still turned on in
the basement. — Contributed by A.
MacCunn, Toronto, Can.

315

Dies for Cutting Cardboard

An inexpensive, yet very efficient, die
for cutting quantities of tin foil, sheet
lead, paper, and cardboard can be made
from a steel rule such as used by
printers. Procure a rule, two points or
about yV in. thick, which comes in 2-ft.
lengths. The rule can be readily bent
without annealing. Bend it to the de-
sired shape and solder, or weld, the ends
together. To give it rigidity, iill in the
space with melted lead to a depth of
half the height of the die.

Place the material to be cut against
the die and put both into a vise, or let-
ter press. Apply pressure steadily un-
til the die has cut through the last
thickness of the material. As many fis
25 pieces can be placed and cut at one
time. When cutting designs for static
machines, etc., from tin foil, this appli-
ance does away with the tedious work
of cutting one at a time, and then, too,
they will all be uniform. In making the
connection at the ends of the rule, be
sure that they meet evenly and do not
lap to make the joint. — Contributed by
M. H. Granholt, Long Beach, Cal.

surface. When the steam escapes,
solder the holes. This will produce a
partial vacuum in the space around the

How to Make a Vacuum Pail

As a substitute for a vacuum bottle
a very efficient pail can be made in the
following manner : Procure a 1-gal.
sirup pail for the outside and a Vi'-gal.
size for the inside. Make a collar of
tin, as shown, with projections; bend
these down, inside and outside, then
solder the collar to the inside of the
larger pail, and the smaller pail to the
inside of the collar. Be sure to make
a perfectly air-tight joint in the solder-
ing. This gives a double wall with an
air-tight space all around the inner pail,
or opening. To make vacuum covers
for the pails, take two covers of each
size and solder them together, as
shown.

To produce a vacuum, make a small
hole in the metal forming the collar,
also one in each cover. Put a few
drops of water in each vacuum com-
partment and set the parts on a heated

EXHAUST HOLES
SOLDERED

COLLAR V\/ITH

POINTS TURNED

DOWN

A Two- Wall Pail with Covers in Which a Partial
Vacuum is Made

inner pail and in the covers. This will
make a very efficient vacuum pail. —
Contributed by John H. Spicer, Mag-
nolia, Ark.

Ironing Board for Use on a Table

A handy ironing board for use on
kitchen or dining-table top is made
with a cleat to keep it from moving
across the table top. The cleat, which
is lii'o or 2 in. wide, is fastened to the
board with screws. If desired, the
board can be made as immovable as the
table top by putting another cleat at
one end, so that the two cleats will

A Cleat Fastened to the Underside of an Ironing
Board to Hold It on the Table Top

hold against one side and one edge of
the table top. — Contributed by H. S.
Craig, Rushford, Minn.

316

Combination Bookcase and Writing
Desk

In planning a writing desk, much
convenience can be added by providing

have this done by an experienced joiner,
or in the mill. The back edges should
be carefully planed, and rabbeted % in.
deep by % in. wide for the %-in. thick
back. The bottom or foot piece of the

Combined Bookcase and Writing Desk Which can be Made Up in Golden Oak, Mission, or Mahoganized Birch,
and will Appear Well with Other Furniture of Like Construction

it with a bookcase, in which may be
stored those reference works most fre-
quently used. The design illustrated
furnishes ample room as a drawing
desk, besides providing sufficient space
in an inclosed cabinet for books or let-
ter-filing cases.

The material required, figuring exact
sizes, is as follows :

2 sides, Ji by 16H by 67 in.
1 bottom shelf, ^Ji by 12 by 32'A in.
1 top shelf, H bv Q<4 by 32'4 in.
1 back, ^ by 40 by 31 in., made of pieces of con-
venient widths.
1 desk board, U by 16 '^ by 30 in.
1 lower bookcase shelf.

1 middle bookcase shelf, pi

by 9;8 by 30 in.
by Sig by 30 in.

1 desk cover, % by 15J/S by 30 in.

1 upper back rail, ^ by 5 by 30 in.

Bookcase Doors
4 stiles, H hy I'A by W in.
4 rails. Jii by 154 by 13!^ in.
2munions, 'A by 1 by 17 }4 in.

2 mullions, "4 by 1 by 13^i in.

1 pigeon-hole stock, j^ by 7 by 72 in.
For Alain Drawer

1 front, Ji by 4 by 30 in.

2 sides, M by 4 by 15'A in.

1 back, a bv S'A by 29^ in.

1 bottom, H by 15'A by 29}^ in.

2 drawer slides, Ji by IK by 15 in,
1 lower rail, J^ by 1J4 by 30 in.

1 molding strip, J4 by ^ by 120 in.

As the main sides are of considerable
width, it would be best to make them of
two pieces glued together and, in or-
der to obtain a strong and neat joint, to

sides should be squared up with the
back edges, or the completed desk is
liable to be winding, or warped. The
bottom and top shelves or main cross
braces should be marked and cut out,
and, to be in harmony with the shape of
the sides, the lower-shelf tenons are
made wider than those on the upper
shelf. The top shelf should be rabbeted
1/2 in. deep by % in. wide, to fit the
back boards which are nailed to it. The
required mortises in the sidepieces are
marked from the corresponding tenons
of the shelves, and can then be cut out
with a chisel. When finished, the four
parts constituting the frame should be
assembled, and may be held together
with blind screws, or dowel pins, passed
through the tenons.

The desk board and two library
shelves should then be fitted, and fas-
tened in place with blind screws
through the sides, or with cleats from
the inside. For a neat, finished appear-
ance, the back boards should be care-
fully joined, exposing no cracks, and
fastened with nails driven into the vari-

sir

ous shelves. The upper rail, resting on
the bookcase, and the lower rail, fomi-
ing part of the drawer support, can then
be fitted and secured to the sides with
blind screws, either from the outside
or diagonally through the rails from the
inside. Drawer slides are fitted in place
flush with the top edge of the lower rail,
and fastened to the sides with screws.

In making the drawer, the usual
construction should be followed. The
front piece should be rabbeted near its
lower edge to fit the drawer bottom,
and notched i/o in. at each end to fit the
sides. The bottom and end pieces fit
into grooves cut in the sides. Suitable
drawer pulls or knobs should be pro-
vided.

For the doors of the bookcase, the
best construction would be to tenon the
rails into the stiles about 1/2 in. The
glass panel fits in a notch, I/2 in. deep
and 1/4 in. wide, cut around the inside
edge of the door, and is held in position
with molding strips. In order to give
the door an appearance of being di-
vided into four parts, mullions, or cross
strips, are fitted on the outer side of the
glass flush with the rails and stiles, and
fastened to them with brads. The
doors are attached with butt hinges.

In making the desk door, a specially
selected board should be used, as the
finished appearance of the desk will
greatly depend on this. The ends and
sides should be perfectly squared, and
the lower or hinge end cut beveled cor-
responding to the edge of the desk
board. Butt hinges are used to secure
it in position, and hinged brackets or
chains provided to support it when
open. When closed, it rests against a
strip fastened to the lower side of the
bottom bookcase shelf.

In arranging the pigeonholes it is
best to have the inside boards rest on
the desk board, so that, when desired,
the entire arrangement of the drawers
and shelves may be withdrawn easily.

When thoroughly sandpapered and
finished to taste, a serviceable, handy
and attractive piece of furniture is ob-
tained, suitable for either office or
home. — Contributed by James Gaffney,
Chicago.

Automatic Stop for Spring-Roller
Curtains

It frequently occurs, in adjusting
spring-roller curtains, that the cord
slips through the hand and the curtain
not only winds up to the top but con-
tinues until the spring has spent its
force, and the curtain and cord are

The Rubber Ball Fastened on the String at the
Stick Prevents the Curtain from Winding Up

rolled up out of reach. It is then neces-
sary to use a chair, or stepladder, to
readjust it. All this trouble and annoy-
ance can be avoided if a small hollow
rubber ball is obtained, and holes
punched through so it may be threaded
on the curtain string, and tied close to
the stick. Should the curtain slip away
with this attachment, the ball will jam
up against the window frame, prevent-
ing further winding up. — Contributed
by T. B. Lambert, Chicago, 111.

Spoon Attachment to Prevent Child
from Using Left Hand

To discourage a child from using a
spoon in the left hand, a projection was
made of a piece of brass, filed into the
shape shown in the illustration. After
the projection was attached, the entire
spoon was plated. This makes it im-
possible to use the spoon in the left
hand, as the projection will prevent the

The Projection Keeps the Spoon from Entering the
Mouth When Taken in the Left Hand

bowl from entering the mouth. — Con-
tributed by W. H. Hutchinson, Ham-
ilton, Ont.

318

A High Chair

Where a high chair is not at hand
or available, an ordinary solid-bottom
kitchen chair can be used instead, if

An Inverted Solid-Bottom Chair with Attachments
Used for a Child's High Chair

rigged up as shown in the illustration.
The chair is reversed, and the back is
used as one support, while two pieces
of wood fastened to the sides form the
other. A seat board is fastened to the
upper side rounds, and a table board to
the two lower side rounds. A small
piece is nailed to the two back posts
for a back. — Contributed by J. S.
Fritzen, Minneapolis, Minn.

Blower for a Fireplace

Having considerable trouble with a
smoky fireplace when trying to start a
coal fire in the basket grate, I decided
to make a blower of sheet iron. A

blower covers the upper part of the fire-
place and forces the draft through the
basket grate until the fire gets a good
start, then it can be removed. Before
making the blower I again had trouble
one morning when the chimney would
not draw, and the whole room became
filled with smoke; I then grabbed a
newspaper and held it up against the
upper part of the fireplace like a regular
blower. To my surprise the suction
of the chimney held the newspaper in
place without any outside aid. In a few
minutes the fire was roaring, and best of
all, when it became hot, the newspaper
caught fire and was sucked into the
flames. This in reality became an auto-
matic blower, as it removed itself when
no longer needed. — Contributed by
Charles F. Kopp, Amite, La.

An Ironing-Board Wall Fastening

One of the most useful and con-
venient articles for a household is an
ironing board, one end of which is
fastened to the wall by means of hinges
to allow it to be folded up against the
wall when not in use. Wood brackets
are preferable to the metal hinges, as
there must be some little space between
the wall and the board to allow for the
thickness of the coA'^ring. The brace
which extends from near the end of the
board to the base of the wall is best
hinged with canvas strips, as they will
last better than any other material for
this joint. The hinges should be put
in place when the board is in a vertical

CANVAS
HINGES ■

Ironing Board Supported

on Wood Hinges at the

Wall to Provide a Space

for the Covering

position to allow the brace to go in
position without straining. — Contrib-
uted by J. H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y,

319

Oars Flattened to Make Rowing
Easier

When rowing a small boat, we were
bothered by the turning of the oars in
the locks, so that the hlade of the oar
was not in proper position to take the
water. We overcame this by planing
off slightly one side of the oar, so that
when this surface was against the lock,
the blade was in the correct position to
catch the water. It is unnecessary to
grip these oars tightly, as they fall
naturally into place and save the
novice a great deal of trouble. In locks
where this method is undesirable, the
handgrips may be cut as a guide. —
H. D. Burnside, Madison, Wis.

A One-Piece Bracelet Cut from a
Calling Card

A trick that will amuse and interest
persons both old and young can be
performed with a calling card, ciga-
rette paper, or other similar material,
cut with a scissors or knife, as indi-
cated in the diagram. The card is
shown, and the performer announces
that he will pass his hand through the
card, making a bracelet of it. He will,
of course, be challenged, and proceeds
as follows : He folds the card length-
wise and cuts through two thicknesses
from 1 to 3, 3 to 4, etc. ; then opens the
card, and cuts from 1 to 13. By
stretching the paper, as shown in the

CARD EXPANDED

AFTER CUTTIN5

It Is Hard to Imitate a Quick and Skillful Perform-
ance of This Simple Trick

sketch, the hand may be passed
through the card readily. The specta-
tors are soon trying to duplicate the
trick. — R. E. Jones, Velasco, Texas.

Device for a Finger Tug-of-War
Game

Considerable pleasure and pastime
was afforded by the tug-of-war game
which I made. Two contestants, one

The Contestants Grasp the Rollers, One at Each End,

and Attempt to Draw the Pointer

Over in Their Favor

at each end, take hold of the rollers
with their forefingers and thumbs and
endeavor to move the pointer to their
respective ends. The game interests
persons of various ages, and they all
want to try it.

The device should be made strongly
to stand the wear on it. The top and
bottom are boards, i-o by 8 by 24 in.,
and four blocks, 3 in. high and 21/2 in.
square, are fastened between them at
the corners with screws. The rollers
are set in the blocks, and held by small
nails passing through them and set
against the inner faces of the blocks.
The pointer is made of a strip of brass,
bent to the shape shown. Cords ex-
tend from the pointer inside of the box
and are tied to the rollers. — James E.
Noble, Kingston, Ontario, Can.

(Tin applying a white paint over a
dark, or mottled, surface, tint the first
coat with a little black, making it gray ;
then the next coat will show solid
white.

330

"Window Frame and Table for Dark Room

By JOSEPH LIMBRUNNER

''r^HE amateur photographer often
A has a poor dark room, sometimes
made worse by the use of an evil-
smelling lamp. If he wishes to use a
room that has daylight, he finds it
difficult to convert the room quickly
for his purposes, especially if he de-
sires to make use of the daylight for
his work. Under these conditions, the
arrangement described in this article
was devised, and proved so satisfac-
tory that I pass it on to the host of
amateurs who find satisfaction in
making part of their equipment. The
table and window frame in place are
shown in Fig. 1. The table is removed
by withdrawing the rod, and bending
up the hinged legs. The frame and
window covering are removed by re-
leasing the four small hooks. Ruby,
yellow, or ground glass may be in-
serted in the sliding frame, as required,
nearly all of the light being shut out,
or light admitted without a glass, by
sliding the frame.

The general arrangement of the
parts is shown in Fig. 3. The dimen-
sions are suggestive only, being suited
to a small window in a bathroom.

WINDOW FRAME -

FRAME C
CARDBOARD

where the equipment was installed.
The table is merely a board top sup-
ported by hinged legs, which are
braced by a removable round wooden
rod. A frame, C, as detailed in the
section at A-B, Fig. 3, is fitted closely
in the window casing. It is covered
with heavy cardboard, tacked on. The
ways J, in which the frame for the glass
slides, are fixed to the lower rail of the
frame C, and to a crossbar at its
middle. A 5 by 7-in. opening is cut in
the cardboard to admit the light, as
shown in Fig. 3. Holes D are bored in
the ways to receive pins which hold
the frame at various positions, as in-
dicated by the stop holes E. Fig. 4.

The sliding frame is detailed in Fig.
4. It consists of a back frame of ^l;-in.
wood, sliding in the grooves of the
ways J, and a frame of 1-in. stuff,
mounted on the front of it. The open-
ings may be made to suit the size of
plate to be used, 5 by 7-in. openings
being indicated. The openings are
provided with rabbeted edges, as indi-
cated by the width G, and the height
H, in which frames of light weight,
for the 5 by 7-in. glass plates, are

;-T

i.ii"Hi'

Af.

■?>

CARDBOARD
OR ASBtSTOS

'':m^

SECTION A-B

TABLE WITH
FOLDING LESS

--i--?

DETAIL OF SLIDING FRAME
F.G.4

vVith This Sliding Frame and Folding Table, the Work of the Photographic Dark Room can be Done by

Daylight in the Home Bathroom

321

fitted. The frames may be made, or
plain, cheap picture frames may be
used. The sliding frame is raised and
lowered by means of the handle F.
The cardboard covering the larger
frame should be painted a dull black,
and the wooden parts may be shel-
lacked in the natural color.

When developing films or plates, the
frames with the red and yellow glasses
should be inserted in the sliding
frame, and held in place by turn but-
tons. The red glass, will ordinarily be
satisfactory for developing, but on
very bright days, with the sun shining
directly on the glass, a layer or two of
"post-office"' paper is placed over it.
The yellow glass may be used when
fixing, and other work requiring a sub-
dued light, but not when developing is
done. For printing, put in the yellow
and the ground glasses, the latter ad-
mitting sufficient light for the purpose.
To use the dark room occasionally in
the evening, I set a lamp on a well-
protected shelf outside of the opening
in the cardboard, and proceed as in the
use of davlia:ht.

Non-Blow-Out Cigar and Pipe Lighter

"It is a poor Irishman that cannot
light his pipe when the wind is blow-
ing," but the
sketch shows a
device that will
make a "Paddy"
out of anyone,
with a great sav-
ing of matches.
It is made from
a small piece of
brass tubing, or
drawn shell, %
in. in diameter,
and about l^/o
in. long. The
open end is

placed in the bowl of the pipe or over
the end of the cigar, a match inserted
through the slot, and a quick stroke
on the threaded portion ignites the
match. The small holes provide air.
The top is soldered in place. — James
H. Rodgers, Montreal, Canada.

r.S^S^' 1

BRASS
TU5E
THflEADED
INSIDE

,SLOT
MATCHp

^^M

Electric Counting Glass for Thread
Fabric

The intelligent housewife and shop-
per, as well as persons professionally
interested in the structure and quality

Hill

U-

Li-

MA<3NIFYINQ GLASS
CLOTH

GROUND QLASS

Woven Fabrics are Examined under the Magnifying

Glass and the Number of Threads to the

Square Inch Counted

of woven fabrics of various kinds, can
make good use of a counting glass for
close examination of such material. In
its simplest form the device consists
of a cigar box with a ground-glass top
and a small electric light inside.
Where larger pieces of goods are to be
examined a small table with wooden
legs and wooden frame for the glass
may be made.

The diagrams at A and B represent
the threads making up the cloth as
stretched on the rollers of a loom. The
lengthwise threads, or warp, are shown
at A, and the cross threads, or weft,
at B. By magnifying the material
with a glass exposing an area of H or
1 in. square, the threads may be
counted or closely examined and the
quality determined. This also enables
one to identify goods as being the
same. — F. Ball Pinkus, La Crescenta,
California.

GAn inexperienced workman broke
eight curved window panes on a lake
steamer by attempting to cut them on
the inside, instead of on the outside of
the curve, in fitting the glass.

322

Clock Device to Record Time of
Appointments and Other Events

An ordinary clock, fitted with an
electrical device to record the length
of telephone conversations or appoint-

The Electrical Device
Attached to the Clock
Records Contacts Made
by the Opening of a
Door, and the Using of
a Telephone

ment hours, or indicate when a door is
opened, is shown in the illustration.
The record is made by the hands in
contact with brass rings attached to
the face of the clock, the front of the
rings being covered with white paper,
dipped in a chemical, on which black
dots are caused to appear, at each con-
tact. By examining the dots and not-
ing the items corresponding to them on
a memorandum, the length of conversa-
tions, etc., may be observed.

Two rings of Mr.-in. brass, one
within the other, and having side arms,
are moimted on the front of the clock,
as shown in the illustration. The ring
on arm A should be slipped under both
hands, and should have spring enough
to hold it in contact with the small
clock hand. The ring fixed to arm B
must be in contact with the large hand,
but must be some distance from the
small hand and the smaller ring, so
that they will not come into contact
when the hands cross each other. An
offset in the arm A, and a piece of mica
insulation, are provided where the
larger ring crosses the bar A. On the
surface of each ring, between it and its

respective hand, is glued a piece of
white paper, cut to conform with the
ring, but Ym in. larger, so as to extend
over the outer edge of the brass rings.
The rings of paper are saturated in a
solution of potassium chloride and per-
mitted to dry, before being placed on
the brass rings.

A high-tension current, passing
through the coil D, enters the arm A,
l^asses to the small hand, to the large
hand, and out at the terminal on arm
B. Black dots will appear on the pre-
pared paper at the position of the
hands, when the contact is made.

The primary wires E and F may be
attached to a doorbell or to a contact
on the door, indicating on the prepared
paper the length of time the door was
held open, as well as the time at which
it was opened. The arms A and B
must be well insulated from one an-
other. For greater accuracy in record-
ing time, to within H minute, prepared
paper dials, with hour and minute
marks, coming into contact with the
hands at small projections punched in
the hands from their upper surfaces,
should be used. An ordinary sec-
ondary coil from an automobile may
be used, and if the clock has a wooden
case, the arms may be fastened directly
to it.

Practical Memorandum for Odd Jobs

Not infrequently home or shop me-
chanics find that trifling odd jobs are
neglected repeatedly, simply because
they are not of sufficient consequence
to warrant getting out the tools or
materials necessary for the work. A
convenient metliod of insuring that
these small jobs are not overlooked is
to make a memorandum of them and
place it with the tools required for the
work. For instance, if a small job of
soldering is to be done, a memorandum
placed with the soldering outfit will
not easily be overlooked, and the work
may be done while the coppers are hot
for use in a larger job. Likewise with
small painting jobs. Sometimes only
a brushful of paint is needed and one
does not care to mix a small quantity

323

of paint nor clean the brush afterward.
A memorandum of the job makes this
unnecessary. — John Hoeck, Alameda,
California.

A Homemade Vulcanizer

Tire tubes may be vulcanized satis-
factorily in the home garage, or even
on the road, with the simple device
shown in the sketch. It is made as
follows : Obtain a piece of sheet iron,
i/i in. thick, 3 in. wide, and 5 in. long.
Drill a i,4-in- hole at the middle of each
end. Fit a strip of similar stock, 1 in.
wide and 5 in. long, to the first piece
with bolts, as shown. Procure a tin
cover without embossing on the top,
such as is used on baking-powder cans.
Cut several disks to fit in the cover,
from heavy cardboard ; soak them
thoroughly in a saturated solution of
saltpeter, and dry them. Wrap each
disk in oiled paper, and keep them in
a water-tight container.

To use the vulcanizer, clean the
area around the hole in the tube with
sandpaper, and cut a piece of rubber
of the proper size to fit over it. Slip
one of the prepared cardboard disks
into the tin cover, and clamp the cover
and tire with patch into the iron frame,
as shown. Touch a lighted match to

IXSxi SHCET IRON

TIN COVER

Rudder for a Toboggan

Learning to steer a toboggan by
means of the foot dragged behind it is
an interesting feature of the sport, but
this method is dangerous at times and

TOBOGGAfM-

This Rudder for a Toboggan Insures Positive Control,

and Prevents Wear on the Shoes and

Clothes of the Rider

results in much wear on shoes and
clothes. The device shown in the illus-
tration makes this method of steering
unnecessary and gives the rider
accurate control over the sled. It con-
sists of a strip of V-i by 1-in. iron
curved to form a rudder at one end and
twisted at the middle to provide a flat
piece for pivoting it on the rear cleat
of the sled, as shown in the working
drawing below. A handle is fastened
to the front end of the strip with bolts.
The rudder should not be curved too
deeply or it will cut through the snow
and be damaged, or ruin the track. —
H. B. Mclntyre, Waterville, Me.

3"xs"x4 SHEET IBON

This Homemade Vulcanizer Utilizes the Heat from
a Slowly Burning Disk of Cardboard

the cardboard disk, which will burn
rapidly, but without flame, supplying
sufficient heat to vulcanize the tube. —
Thomas W. Benson, Hastings on Hud-
son, N. Y.

A Window Refrigerator

A simple method of constructing a
window refrigerator that will not ob-
struct the light is shown in the illus-
tration. A box was made the width
of the window and was fitted to slides
fastened outside the window on the
side of the house. The exposed sides
of the box were inclosed completely
and the inner side was provided with
two sliding doors. A handle was
fitted to the side of the box so that.

324

by reaching out of the window, the
box could be drawn in front of the
opening easily. Several shelves were

A Box Fitted on the Outside of the Window to Slide
in Grooves Provides a Convenient and Inexpen-
sive Refrigerator for Winter Use

fitted into it and the materials stored
were not easily molested. Trunk
casters attached to the bottom of the
box improved the action on the lower
rail. — Hubert Kann, Pittsburgh, Pa.

Toy Paper Glider Carefully
Designed

A paper glider is an interesting and
useful toy that can be made quickly;

Ai-15'H

The Glider will Travel 30 Feet, Carrying a Messaee,
if Carefully Made

it may be used out of doors, but occa-
sions when weather conditions make
it neces&P'-/ to remain indoors are

especially good for this form of pas-
time. The glider shown in the sketch
was worked out after considerable test-
ing. With a toss it travels 20 to 30
ft., on a level keel, with a message
slipped behind a pin, as shown in the
upper sketch. The inventive boy may
devise many play uses for the glider,
in tournaments, competitions, and for
"military" flights, in which the "driv-
ers" of the devices may "annihilate
armies." Practical use of the toy was
made in a series of air-current tests.

The glider is made as follows : Fold
a piece of paper, 10 by 15 in., length-
wise, and mark the outline shown at
the left upon it. The dimensions
should be followed carefully. Measure
first from the end A to the point B,
and then draw the slanting line to D,
at an angle of 45°. Mark the width to
E, and measure the other distances
from A and at the middle, to determine
the curve of the edge. Mark the dotted
lines extending from D, which are
guides for the folding of the paper to
form the glider, as shown in the lower
sketch. Curl the points under the' side
so that the line FD comes to the posi-
tion DG, and pin them to the corners
H, as shown in the lower sketch. The
glider is tossed by holding it between
the thumb and forefinger at the middle
of the fold underneath it. — S. R.
Edwards, Seattle, Wash.

Cleaning a Clock with Kerosene
Fumes

A simple way of cleaning a clock is
as follows: Remove the pendulum,
and procure a ball of cotton wool,
about half the size of a fist. Saturate
this with kerosene, and place it in a
saucer, or a tin lid, in the case under
the works of the clock. Close the case,
and leave the cotton for several days.
It will then be found that the fumes
from the kerosene have brought down
the dust from the works; in fact, the
cotton will be covered with black
specks. It only remains to oil the
bearings of the works, and the clock
will be quite in order. — S. Leonard
Bastin, Bournemouth, England.

325

A Reversible Photographic Developing Tank

By LAWRENCE F. CAMPBELL

NE of the chief difficulties in de-
veloping plates in a nonreversible
developing tank is that irregular de-
velopment takes place, because the
developer tends to settle more or less,
depending on the time necessary for
complete development. The construc-
tion of a reversible tank is a simple
matter, and the cost is slight. The tank
described, is 314 by 414 in. in size, but
the dimensions can be varied for other
sizes of plates. The tank is a box
having grooves in opposite ends for
the plates. By placing the latter back
to back, 12 can be developed at a time.
Sheet rubber is fitted between the
cover and the body of the tank, and
the cover, upon being screwed down,
makes a, water-tight compartment of
the box. The asphaltum paint used is
not affected by the developer, and pre-
serves the wood. Fixing and develop-
ing may both be done in the one tank,
but it is preferable to use the tank for
developing only.

©~^^^:i^

SIDE VIEW END VIEW

Assembly Views, Showing the General Construction
aad Detail of the Cover

The two sides are plain pieces, I/2 by
4 by 41/2 in. in size. The end pieces
have % by %-in. grooves, i/4 in. apart

and extending the length of the piece,
which is 1-2 by Si/o by 41/1. in. long.
The grooves can be made either on a

-T B - — ^ __ - -

--^— :zr^

-r-J

BOTTOM

The Finished Tank, and Details of the Bottom, Ends,
and Bolt Supports

power saw, or by chiseling them out by
hand. The bottom piece is % by SYo
by 5Y2 in. in size, with two %-in. holes
bored to receive the bolts. The two
bolt supports are I/2 by % by 1 in.,
and are also bored •"§ in. to receive the
bolts, and are nailed to the end pieces.
The cover is Y2 by Sio by 514 in. long,
with a slot in each end for the bolts,
which are % by 6-in. carriage bolts.

The parts are assembled with screws,
and the tank is given two coats of as-
phaltum paint. Care should be taken,
before assembling the parts, to insure
tliat the plates fit the grooves.

Turned Cane with Snakes Inlaid

The making of a cane is a favorite
job for the home craftsman, especially
the veteran who finds himself in need
of such a support and has the leisure to
make it. A novelty in constructions of
this kind is a turned cane built up of

326

dark and light-colored woods with
snakes inlaid. That shown in the i'Uus-
tration was made of black walnut and
birch, with a walnut knob. It is made
as follows : Glue up a piece of walnut

shellac. Tip the bottom of the cane
with a suitable ferrule. — E. K. Wehry,
Cedar Rapids, la.

and a piece of birch, ■% by 1% by 3 ft.
long, as shown at A. Mark out the
snake on the birch surface, and cut it
out very carefully on the band saw, or
with a fine hand turning saw. The
snake portion will drop out and is then
separated into a walnut and a birch
strip, making two similar snakes. Bore
holes for the eyes and plug them with
the opposite kind of wood. Replace the
snakes in opposite positions, the one of
birch in the walnut side, and the walnut
one in the birch side. Glue them care-
fully into place, removing a small por-
tion of the wood at the ends of tlie
sawed pieces to make a close fit.

The stock then appears as at B, and
is ready for turning in the lathe. If de-
sired, circles may be laid out on the
ends of the stock, and the piece planed
down to the rounded and tapered form
of a cane. This is a more tedious job.
but if carefully done with sharp tools
will give good results.

Turn down the shaft to the desired
thickness, as shown at C, the upper
end being about 1 in. and the lower end
1/2 in. in diameter. Turn a knob of wal-
nut as suggested, and after sandpaper-
ing the work carefully, finish it with

An Inexpensive Dry-Plate Kit

Wishing to use some 314 by Sy^-in.
plates in a 614 by 8V2-in. camera, I
made kits that proved satisfactory, as
follows, the method being adaptable
also to other sizes : A piece of card-
board the size of the camera plate was
procured. A rectangle, as at A, was
cut in the center, Yie in. larger each
way than the plate. Paste, over the
back of the cut-out rectangle, a sheet
of tough, thin paper, B, and glue two
small pieces of cardboard, as at C. Cut
cardboard pieces D, E, F, and G, pro-
portioned as at H, and glue them into
position, G being over the others, the
piece E sliding. If a dry plate is placed
in the rectangle and E is slid toward
the plate, it will hold the latter in posi-
tion. The plate holder is loaded with
the kit, and to prevent warping, a cou-
ple of pins are driven into the plate
holder, as at H. Figures J and K indi-
cate the open and closed positions. The

-3J-,

'lO

■l

1 1

' i====.

■•J

(

—

l::i..,. .

" -

1 U

\ -J
1 ^

K*-,

This Dry-Plate Kit is Made of Cardboard and Serves
the Purpose Admirably if Carefully Fitted

ground glass is marked to correspond
with the rectangle, so that one can tell
where to focus the image. — L. L. Llew-
ellyn, Piedmont, Calif.

Photographic-Print Washing Machine

By harry MARCELLE

MANY amateur photographers have
occasion to make a considerable
numlier of prints and find the washing
of them tedious, by the
ordinary methods. In
order to overcome this
difficulty the print-
washing machine
shown in the sketch
was made. It is sim-
ple in construction and
performs the work
quite satisfactorily at a
saving of not a little
time. Since the water
in which the prints are
washed must be agi-
tated, a pivoted tray is
provided. A unique
feature is the water
wheel through which
the water supply
passes, at the same
time developing power
to operate the rocker
arm, by means of which
the tray is agitated.

The frame for the large trough
which contains the tray and other ap-
paratus, is made of .3 by 4-in. up
risrhts, braced with 2 by

ported on a rod or pipe at its center,
the ends of the support being set into
the sides of the trough. A crank arm

W/ATER WHEELS
ARM TO ROCK TRAY -
TROUGH TO

STOP FOI

OF WATE

m. pieces.
The trough is made of %-in. stock,
joined at the ends with a water-tight
grooved, or dado, joint. The top is
fitted to form a cover and may be
hinged or arranged as a lid, supported
and held in place by cleats, fixed on
its under side with screws. The
trough and its fittings may be made of
a size suited to individual require-
ments. The device illustrated is 4 ft.
long, and has a trough IS in. wide and
13 in. high. The interior of the trough
is given a coat of tar to make it water-
proof, and the exterior may be painted
thoroughly to preserve the wood.

The rocking tray, in which the prints
are placed, is made of ^{v,-in. stock. It
is 5 in. high, 15 in. wide, and 28 in.
long. Splash boards are fixed at its
ends, as shown, and the bottom is made
of muslin, reinforced with wooden
strips, 14 in. wide. The tray is sup-

The Spray Forced from the Pipe Gives Power
to the Water Wheel, Which in Turn is Trans-
ferred to the Rocker Arm Attached to the Tray

of wood or metal is attached to the
center of one end of the tray, and op-
erates through an opening in the top
of the trough. The crank arm engages
a crank fixed to the shaft of the water
wheel, as shown in the sketch. The
crank must be made not longer than

2 in., or the resulting action on the tray
will pour out too much water, the
prints being thus in danger of damage.

The water wheel is made of two
round disks of sheet metal, 9 in. in
diameter. Strips of wood are fitted
between them so that the wheel is

3 in. wide on the face. Wooden blocks,
grooved to fit the shaft of the water
wheel, are used as bearings. They are
fixed to the top with bolts. The water
supply is provided through a pipe at
one end. A cap is fitted over the end
of the extension on the pipe and a small
hole drilled through it. This forces the
water against the blades of the water
wheel rather than permitting it to drop
under normal pressure. The flow of
water is regulated by the valve on the

327

328

supply pipe, and the excess water is
drained off at the opposite end of the
trough. The force of the water, as it
leaves the water wheel, is lessened, and
the water carried getitly to the tray, by
means of a board set between the top
and the tray, at the wheel end of the
trousfh.

A Washstand for the Baby

To make this washstand, I mounted
a cheese box on a frame 20 in. from
the floor, and
fitted a shelf be-
tween the legs 9
in. from the
fioor. In the
center of this
shelf a hole was
cut. with a com-
pass saw, to hold
a washbasin.
Rods between
the legs are
handy for
towels, wash-
cloths, etc.
A\ ithin the cir-
cular box are kept baby's toilet and
bath articles. The inside of the box
is padded with cotton and lined with
nainsook, the latter being used, also,
for the cover. When the cover is on
the box, the stand is used as a small
table. White enamel gives the stand
a neat finish. — F. E. Brimmer, Dalton,
New York.

Carrying Strap and Lock for Hand
Cases

The illustration shows how to make
a locking device for hand cases or
satchels, and
providing, also, a
strap for carry-
ing. Cut two
pieces of % by
" i^s~~it= 2-in. strap iron,
and two pieces,
21/0 in. long. Bend them, and fasten
them with screws or rivets, as shown.
^^'hen the case is carried, the strap
holds the crosspieces firmly.

Disk Talking-Machine Records Played
Eccentrically

A hole was bored about an inch from
the center of a disk talking-machine
record and the latter was placed on
the machine with the new hole over
the center pin of the table. When the
record was played, the result was a
reproduction extremely amusing and
hardly recognizable as compared with
the original one.

/-TIN PAIL WITH
BOTTOM IN IT

Safety Flue Stopper Made of Tin Pail

The usual method of covering stove-
pipe holes in chimneys with a tin disk
is not as safe as
it should be, es-
pecially adjoin-

a^mf ^mr I lu ing nonfireproof

I^B ' y^fff' "):j material. A safer
'mK V cr V I i'l'li method is to fit a
tin can, or a tin
pail, into the
chimney hole, as
shown. Cut it off the right length,
with a pair of tin shears, leaving pro-
jections as stops, and replace the disk
stopper. — J- A. Raught, Janesville,
Wisconsin.

FLUE STOPPER^

Book Rest for Music Stand

The music-stand attachment shown
in the illustration aids in the handling
of music books,
and is easily
made. Some
stands are pro-
vided with a
supporting edge
about 1 in. wide
and will not
properly carry
larger music
books, and the
device is at-
tached to this edge. The device is of
wood, ^/'ic by 314 in., and the length of
the stand. On the bottom, two wood
strips are fastened. They are beveled
as shown in the sectional view, to
wedge on the music rest. — L. R. W.
Allison, Newark, N. J.

529

Uses for Worn Talking-Machine
Needles

Among the uses made of discarded
steel talking-machine needles are the
following: as glazier's tacks; as
brads, where a headless nail or an in-
conspicuous one is desired ; as pins for
fastening papers together; and for the
tacking in of the backs on picture
frames. — William A. Martin, Jersey
City, N. J.

Automatic Photo-Print Washing
Device

A photographers' automatic print-
washing device may readily be made
with the aid of
an alarm clock,
and a spool to
which a piece of
thread is at-
tached as shown.
The spool is
fixed to the
alarm - clock
winder. An up-
right support,
having a nail driven into the top and
bent over to form a hook, carries the
thread, to which the print is attached
by a small clip. The alarm-clock
mechanism is then set, and when re-
leased draws the print from the dish,
the bell warning the operator. — George
H. Holden, Chesterfield, England.

Portable Sectional Poultry Fencing

Sectional poultry fencing has sev-
eral advantages over stationary fenc-
ing: It can be easily moved, the poul-
try yard being made larger, smaller,
or shifted ; an area may be planted to
a crop and gradually included in the
yard, furnishing greens for the poul-
try. Also, the tenant who does not
care to put down permanent equip-
ment, will find sectional fencing desir-
able.

Sections are practical to about 18 ft.
long, and should be 7 ft. high for the
lighter breeds of poultry. If the fenc-
ing is to be used for grown stock only,

the fine-mesh wire below may be
omitted, and 2-in. mesh used. Some
sections should be fitted with gates,
and the top batten should be set down

Poultry Fencing Made in Portable Sections Has
Several Advantages over a Stationary Barrier

about 1 ft., so as not to afford footing
for the poultry. The sections are
lashed together with wire, and sup-
ported by an occasional post, or guyed
to buildings or supports.

Suitcase Holder for Running Board of
Automobile

Two metal strips, %6 by l^^o by 20
in., were used to make a strong and
adjustable holder for suitcases carried
on the running board of an automobile.
One-inch slots were cut near the top of
the strips, which were bent to form
angles having an upright portion 13 in.

■SLOTS-,

V''Tr^'"1 jT-'^.^'f'*— ^ s7y,?.\S

RUNNING BOARD -

These Homemade Supports Are Adjustable to Suit-
cases of Varying Widths

long. The angles are adjusted at the
bolts, as shown, and the suitcase is
held in place by straps. — Lucien G.
Baer, Los Angeles, Calif.

330

Wheelbarrow for Large Cans

Large cans for milk are awkward to
handle and transport in the dairy or
barn, and the cart shown in the sketch

Milk Cans were Handled Easily by Means of This
Homemade Cart.

was made from an old wheelbarrow
and sections of pipe, to make this work
easy. The pipes were bent to the
shape shown and strongly braced with
iron rods. A board bottom was pro-
vided, and the barrow wheel was

mounted between the forked ends of
the frame. The cart may be used for
numerous other purposes, and is espe-
cially convenient in that the load need
only be lifted slightly. — Monroe \\^ool-
ley, San Francisco, Calif.

Plain Butts Used as Double-Swing
Hinge

By placing two ordinary plain butt
hinges so that two of their wings over-
lap completely, they may be made to
serve as a double-swing hinge. If the
holes do not correspond in the adjoin-
ing wings, drill hew ones, disposing
them to give the best hold in the wood.
Allowance must be made in applying
the hinge, for the double thickness of
the center portion.

CA rubber finger tip is convenient in
counting sheets in that the paper is not
soiled, since moistening of the finger is
unnecessary.

Portable Skylight for Home Portraiture

By W. W. IRVINE

Photographers who wish to con-
struct a part of their equipment may
be interested in a portable skylight,
which I made and use with thorough
satisfaction, for home portraiture.
Covered with imitation leather, it is
quite presentable in carrying it about.
Figure 9 shows the case closed, with
stand, flash lamp, box of flash powder,
and a white-cloth reflector inside. The
apparatus set up for work is shown in
Fig. 5, and the details of construction
in the other sketches.

First make the frames for the top
and bottom of the case, A, of % by
2Vi>-in. wood, and B, of % by IVi-in.
stock, lengths and construction as
shown in Fig. 3. Cut from extra-
heavy mount board, two 21 by 38-in.
pieces, C, and tack one to one side of
each of the frames. Cut a similar
piece, E, 15 by 261/2 in., and hinge it
with strong cloth, or thin leather, to
the inner side of the thicker frame, to

form the roof E, Fig. 5. Hinge the
two frames with three butt hinges.

The frame is then ready for cover-
ing, and for this purpose imitation
leather is economical and practical.
Two yards of 36-in. material is needed.
Use hot glue, first on the bottom half
of the case, applying it smoothly, and
press the fabric into place. Then
cover the sides, the upper half, and the
roof. The covering must be in one
piece to prevent the smoke from escap-
ing at the joints. Glue down the edges
inside of the case, and set it aside for
24 hours to dry.

While waiting for the case to dry,
the work on the bag can be done. Two
yards of close-woven white muslin, or
one yard of 60-in. sheeting, is required
for the front. For the sides, close-
woven black material should be used.
Figures 1 and 2 show the dimensions,
the white portions representing pat-
terns, and the shaded portions mate-

331

rial for hems and seams. The mate-
rial is folded over the pattern, basted
down, and hemmed at the dotted lines,

in Figs. 5 and 6. Mine was made for
cartridges, but by attaching a pan of
heavy tin, I use it for flash powder.

This Homemade Skylight was Made at a Cost of ?3, Gives Satisfactory Service, and Is Not Unsightly

li/o in. from the edge. Sew the front
to the curved sides. Allowance for
shrinkage, when the bag is washed and
fireproofed, has been made in these
sizes.

For fireproofing the bag, the follow-
ing formula is good : water, 60 oz., am-
monium phosphate, 4 oz., ammonium
chloride, 8 oz. Soak the fabric half an
hour, wring it out slightly, and hang
it up to dry.

Cut a hole, 6 in. square, in the lower
half of the case for the door F, Fig. 5.
The door is of galvanized sheet iron,
7 in. square, covered on one side with
imitation leather and provided with a
leather handle. The door slides in
guides of mount board, or metal, as
shown in Fig. 4. Figure 8 shows the
notch below the door to allow play for
the spring of the flash lamp, in place

The leather socket, into which the
top of the holder G, is slipped, is shown
in detail in Fig. 7. Suitcase catches,
D, lock the apparatus in open or closed
position. The roof E, is supported by
two folding desk slides.

To fasten the bag in place, slip a'
cheap yardstick, or strip, cut to the
proper length, in each of the hems at
the edges, and set them snugly inside
and against the sides of the open case
and under the edge of the roof. Fasten
them with screws, as shown at the
edges in Fig. 5. The bag is easily re-
moved by withdrawing the screws and
the strips, for washing and fireproof-
ing it again. The front must hang
away from the lamp before the charge
is fired, or the bag may be burned.
After firing the flash, the skylight is
carried out and the smoke expelled.

333

Fuel Box in Seat Filled from Floor
Trapdoor

A fuel box for the fireplace may be
easily arranged so that it is unneces-

The Fuel is Placed in the Box by Passing It Up
through the Trapdoors in the Floor

sary to carry the fuel through the liv-
ing rooms, thus avoiding soiHng floors
and rugs. It may be installed, as
shown, for a summer cottage, or even
in the living room of a home. The
fuel box is built under the seat of a
comfortable settle, and the wood, coal,
etc., are placed in the fuel compartment
by passing it up through trapdoors in
the floor at the center of the box. The
fuel is piled at each side of the trap-
door behind a low partition, and the
trapdoors are closed when not in use.
The seat of the fuel box is divided at
the middle and hinged to swing back.
Suitable cushions should be provided
for the seat.— M. P. Norton, Chicago.

Homemade Relay of Inexpensive
Materials

A practical relay was made of odds
and ends gathered in the workshop.
The base is of wood, % by 3 by 6 in.
The magnets A are made of two wire
nails driven into the base, the heads
projecting fiA in. They are wound
with six layers of fine insulated No.
25 gauge wire, as shown in the small

sketch. The ends of these magnet wires
are carried to the two binding posts B
and C, taken from dry-cell carbons.

The armature D is a piece of soft
iron, lo by ai/o in., screwed to the
armature lever E, which is a 1/2 by iy^-
in. piece of wood. A piece of tin is
tacked to the opposite end F, and a
%-in. hole is bored through the lever,
21/^ in. from the front end. Nail a
wooden block, G, to the base, slotted
to accommodate the lever, so that
when the latter is pivoted in the slot,
the armature will lie directly over the
magnet heads. Fit a wooden stop, H,
under the end of the lever, so that the
armature is held i/g in. above the mag-
nets, by a brass spring, J, connected
to_ the tin, F, and the binding post, K,
with copper wire. Arrange the brass
hook, L, so it comes in contact with
F when the armature bears down upon
the magnets. Connect this hook to the
binding post, M. \Mien current flows
through the magnets, the armature is
pulled down and the contact of the

Nails, a Screw Hook, and Similiar Common Materials,
were Used in Making This Relay

hook, L, with the tin, F, completes a
secondary circuit. — L. R. Hardins,
Harwich, Mass.

CA nutcracker may be used as a sub-
stitute for a pipe wrench or pliers, and
its toothed handles grip round objects
quite firmly.

333

A Photographic Printing Machine

By L. B. ROBBINS

PRINTING machine for "gas-
light" papers, to be used in locali-
ties not equipped with gas or electricity
and where printing is to be done after
daylight, is shown in the sketch. The
measurements given are only approxi-
mate, as conditions will determine its
size. That slrown is made as follows :
First procure a Sy^ by 8%-in. or 8 by
10-in. printing frame. Remove the
brass clips from the pad and fasten one
end of the pad to the frame, by a pair
of small hinges, with the glass in the
frame. Procure a box, about 1"3 by 15

in., by 8 in. deep,

with one side
open. Cut a rec-
tangular opening
through the 12 by
lo-in. side a bit
smaller than the
printing frame,
and secure the
frame in place
over the opening
with screws. Saw
a slot 34 in. wide
through the top of
the box — the end
nearest the hinged
end of the print-
ing frame pad —
running it the full
width and about
3 in. from the
front.

Nail cleats along
the inside of each side of the box. plac-
ing them vertical and parallel, and about
% in. apart, so as to form a slide groove
in conjunction with the slot. This
groove is to receive a frame or curtain
constructed of stock, 2 in. wide and
14 in. thick. The outside dimensions
of the curtain are a trifle smaller than
the inside measurements of the box
itself. Cover the frame with orange
paper, and when finished insert it
through the slot in the top of the box.
Build a frame as indicated, on the out-
side of the box. Along the inside of

Photographic Printing m
Systematic Use

the Uprights fasten cleats, thick enough
to come flush with the ends of the slot.
These serve to steady the curtain when
raised. Make a suitable baseboard and
secure the box to it. Then with sheet
tin construct a lamp house extending
from the back of the box and of suffi-
cient size to accommodate a round-wick
lamp. Leave an opening in the top
to admit the chimney, provide holes
for ventilation, and a door by which
the lamp may be adjusted. When
completed, paint the interior of the
box and lamp house white, to intensify
the printing qual-
ity of the light.
Tie a piece of
stout cord to a
screw eye inserted
in the upper end
of the sliding cur-
t a i n, lead it
through two pul-
leys fastened as
shown, and down
to the hand lever.
The latter is
pivoted at the
rear end by a bolt.
Attach a spring to
the lower end of
the hinged pad on
the printing
frame. This holds
the pad out of the
way when not i.n
use. A curtain-
roller spring is suitable for this pur-
pose.

To operate the machine, place the
negative and paper in position, and,
with the left hand, bring the pad down.
Pull down the hand lever with the
right hand, raising the orange curtain.
When the required exposure is made,
release the lever, shutting ofif the direct
light. While nearly all light is shut
out by means of the lamp house, the
paper may be handled safely and easily
by means of that admitted through the
orange curtain. By systematic ar-

ay be Done Rapidly by the
of This Machine

334

rangement and handling of materials,
it is surprising what an amount of
work can be turned out by the aid of
this machine, especially if one person
attends to the exposing and another to
the developing.

A Small Variable Condenser

The condenser shown in the diagram
combines the large capacity of a fixed
condenser with the gradual capacity

^ ^ ftjj ^ ^
[il [oi (ii fi) fci

>...J..-r.U-

A @

WAX PAPER SiX*i

TINFOIL
6X4

Diagram for a Small
Variable Condenser

variation of a variable one. It is suit-
able for a wireless receiving circuit, or
to shunt around the vibrator of an in-
duction coil, by making the units con-
siderably larger. It is made up of sev-
eral fixed condensers, connected in
parallel, a lever being the means
whereby the capacity is varied. Five
or more units may be used, each being
a small condenser, built up of 10 sheets
of waxed paper and nine sheets of tin
foil. A convenient size for the tin foil
is 6 by 4 in., and for the paper, 5% by
414 in. The latter should be a good
grade of very thin linen paper and
should be carefully prepared by dipping
it in hot paraffin. The sheets of tin foil
and paper in each unit are piled up al-
ternately, allowing about % in- on each
tin-foil strip to project beyond the pa-
per for making connections. The pile is
covered with heavy paper, and a heated
flatiron is passed on the top of each
unit until the paraffin begins to melt.
Upon cooling, the units are compact.

The connections necessary are shown
in the diagram. The condenser units
C, D. E. F, G, each have one side con-
nected to a common terminal A. The

other sides of the condensers are con-
nected to the copper strips H, J, K, L,
M. They are 14 in. wide and Yiq in.
thick. A copper lever, Vs by V^ by 8
in., is pivoted on one end so that it will
connect two or more of the condensers
in parallel. The pivoted end is con-
nected to the terminal B. The dotted
line shows different positions of the
lever. The apparatus is mounted in a
wooden box. — Peter J. M. Clute, Sche-
nectady, N. Y.

Lighting a Candle without Touching
the Wick

A candle may be lighted without the
match flame touching the wick, as fol-
lows:' Light the candle, let it burn a
bit ; then blow it out. A small column
of smoke will rise from the wick.
Touch the rfiatch flame to this, a little
above the wick, and it will ignite, travel
down, and relight the wick from the
Inirning oil gas.

Emergency Lifting Device of Rope
and Lever

\\'hen block and tackle, chain hoists,
or similar equipment are not at hand,
the simple ar-
rangement
shown in the
sketch is useful
for lifting heavy
loads. Alake the
lever A of a piece
of 3 by 4-in.
stuff, and cut
notches into it
for the ropes, as
indicated. From
a suitable sup-
port, B, fix the
ropes C and D to
the lever A at
the proper
notches, permit-
ting the ends C-1
and D-1 to be
drawn down and
fastened to the floor or other support,
as required in raising the load. Fix

335

the rope E to the load W, and suspend
it from the lever A at the proper notch
by means of a loop, E-1. To raise the
load, bear down on the end of the lever
when it is in its original position A-1,
bringing it to the position A-2. This
will bring the lower rope to position
E-2. Draw up the slack in rope D, to
bring the loop to position D-2, and fas-
ten it. Then lift the lever A from its
position A-2, to the position A-3, and
draw up the slack in rope C to bring
the loop up to position C-2. The lower
rope will be brought to position E-3.
By repeating this process, the load may
be raised gradually. The ropes may,
of course, be of various lengths within
the range of the support and the
operators.

Mucilage Brush and Container Made
of a Test Tube

An ordinary test tube, about % by
6 in. in size, may be made into a mu-
cilage container
Muc.LASE ^^^ brush that

economizes the
material and
does not get the
fingers sticky.
The end of the
tube is covered
with a piece of
soft cloth after
the tube is filled,
as shown in the sketch. A convenient
way to care for the device is to keep it
in a small tumbler. — A. H. Carrington,
Trenton, N. J.

Holder for Household Ice Pick

An ice pick is often a source of dan-
ger, if left lying about the home, and
should be kept at a place convenient to
the ice box, where it will not be likely
to cause injury. The small bracket on
which the ends of the roller curtain are
supported is a satisfactory holder for
the pick. It may be fastened to the
wall with nails, or screws, so that the
pick may be suspended in the center
hole. — Robert J. Donnelly, Cincinnati,
Ohio.

Swing Made of Hickory Sapling

A swing, so durable that it has be-
come a virtual landmark, was made
from a long,
straight hickory
sapling sus-
pended from the
limb of a tree.
The sapling was
split part of its
length, as shown
in the illustra-
tion, and a bolt
put through it to
prevent the up-
per portion from
cracking. The
lower end was
smoothed ofif, so
as not to injure
the hands, and
mortised
through a slab of
wood, as shown
in the detailed
sketch. A safe
hook from which
to suspend the
swing is sug-
gested. It is
made from a bolt
fixed through the
limb and curled
at the hook end

so that the swing mav be taken down
in bad weather. — Hubert Kann, Pitts-
burgh, Pa.

Match Safe of Miniature Cannon Shell

The match safe shown in the sketch
was made by a
worker in a mu-
nitions plant.
The container
was shaped like
a small cannon
shell and was set
into a bracket
supported on a
prettily grained
board, stained
and varnished, and supported by a
chain — J. H. Moore, Hamilton, Can.

336

Washing Bromide Enlargements

The difficulty of washing bromide
enlargements of the larger sizes has al-
ways made the amateur hesitate to un-

PRINT -

The Cork Clips Hold the Bromide Print in the Water
in a Vertical Position

dertake much of this kind of work. The
developing and fixing can be done with
comparative ease, because of the fa-
cility with which the print can be kept
moving in a tray that is smaller in size
than the print itself, but washing is
such a long process that one's patience
is exhausted before the hypo is com-
pletely eliminated. Continuous han-
dling of a print for 30 minutes is tedious
work. This objection can be overcome
in the simplest and most efficacious
manner, as follows :

Procure some large corks of the best
quality and in each cut a groove com-
pletely around it, near one end, to serve
as a retainer for a rubber band ; then
cut the cork lengthwise through the
center, and cut a wedge-shaped piece
from the center toward the end oppo-
site the one where the groove was cut
for the rubber band. After placing a
band in the groove of the proper size
the combination will work similarly to
an old-fashioned spring clothespin.

If two of these are snapped on the
edge of a bromide print, this can be
dropped into a bathtub or laundry tub
for washing. The corks will cause the
print to float vertically in the running
water. By this means a number of
prints can be washed at a time without
any danger of their sticking together
or becoming wrinkled or cracked in
the bath. — Contributed by T. B. Lam-
bert, Chicago.

Bench Support for a Miter Box

To make the most effective use of a
miter box, it must be fastened solidly
to a base, but if fastened to the work-
bench top it is in the way when not in
use, and it is a nuisance to fasten and
unfasten the box every time it is used.
To avoid the changing, I mounted the
miter box on two pieces of 1 by 3-in.
stock, about 2 ft. long. These pieces
were placed on the bench top, at right
angles to the front edge and with their
centers as far apart as the two pairs of
legs on the box. The box was placed
on the front end of the pieces, with the
back parallel to the front of the bench,
at right angles to the pieces, and was
fastened to them with screws. The
other end of each piece was fastened
to the bench top with a hinge.

This fastened the miter box firmly
to the bench top, but in such a way
that I could tip it up and back against
the wall, or other support, where it was
out of the way but ready for use imme-
diately. To stiffen the frame, I placed
a cross brace between the two pieces,
making it in the form of the letter H. —
Contributed by L. C. Burke, Madison,
Wisconsin.

A Blowpipe for Gas

Every experimenter who has a gas
connection within convenient distance
of the workbench should provide a i
or 5-ft. length of 14-in. rubber tubing,
terminating in a brass tube through
which air may be blown in order that
a clear blue flame may be available for
either hard or soft soldering. The
brass tube should be 4 or 5 in. long
and fitted at one end with a removable
nozzle having a Mc-in. hole in it. A
hole is then drilled in the side and a

AIR SUPPLY -
Blowpipe Connection to the Ordinary Illuminating-
Gas Main for Hard and Soft Soldering

piece of smaller brass tubing, bent a?
shown in the sketch, is soldered in
place for the air supply. A piece of
soft-rubber tubing about 1 ft. long is
then provided and one end slipped over

33r

the projecting end of the air pipe and
the other fitted to a hard-rubber, or
amber, mouthpiece. By regulating the
gas supply and blowing to the proper
degree, a pencil of blue flame may be
produced, anywhere from 1 to 4 in.
long. For heating large surfaces, the
nozzle tip should be removed.

This method of soldering not only
makes a better connection than the
usual copper, but is instantly available
and does not disarrange the several
pieces where, as is often the case, it is
not practicable to pin or hold them in
place.

Scraper for Dishes

Housekeepers will find the scraper
shown to be silent and more rapid
than a knife for cleaning dishes. It
consists of a handle cut from a piece
of straight-grained wood, with a kerf
sawed in the wide end to a depth of
34 in., into which a piece of sheet rub-
ber is inserted. The rubber may be
cut from an old bicycle-tire casing and
is fastened with two or three brads
driven through the handle. The ends
of the brads are bent over or riveted.

A Dish Scraper Made of a Piece of Rubber Inserted
in a Wood Handle

The edge of the rubber should be made
straight. — Contributed by H. S. Craig,
Rushford, Minn.

Protecting Lights in a Gymnasium

A public-school auditorium was used
for playing basket ball, and the lights
were protected as shown. Wire waste-
baskets were fastened to pieces of
board, which in turn were nailed to the
ceiling around each lamp. As it was
desired to provide a way to ventilate
the room, an opening was cut in each
board around the lamp base, providing
fan-shaped cut-outs covered with gal-
vanized metal of the same design, to

make a way to open and shut the ven-
tilator. The air passed up into an attic.
The goals, which were old black-

Wire Wastebasket Fastened around a Light to Protect
It for Basket-Ball Games

boards, were fastened between the
posts that supported the ceiling. Two
iron rods, one above the other, were
clamped with bolts to the posts, and the
boards were bolted to the rods. — Con-
tributed bv Frank C. Svacha, McKees
Rocks, Pa'

Shortening a Pasteboard Box

If a pasteboard box happens to be too
long for a special purpose it can be
shortened as shown. The sides are cut
down to the bottom and the end re-
moved. The bottom is then bent up on
a line between the places where the

■ CUT OUT END
><— CUT ON DOTTED
LINES

Shortening a Box by Bending Up the Bottom after
Removing the End and Cutting Down the Sides

sides were cut down, to form a new end
for the box. The joining parts are then
held with a thread or wire fasteners.

338

Repairing Shade-Roller Springs

Springs of window-shade rollers,
which usually "break at the tin cap by
which they are fastened inside the rod,

Fix the Loosened Spring into Place
Fio 2 ^"d "le Roller Is in Working Order

can be quickly repaired in the follow-
ing manner:

Remove the ferrule and dogs from
the end of the roller and pull out the
stick to which the spring is attached.
Measure the length of the stick A,
Fig. 1, on the roller, and at C cut a
small square hole through to the hol-
low center. Remove the metal cap thus
exposed. Fix the cap on the end of the
stick at B and fasten the spring around
one point of the metal cap, Fig. 2. In-
sert the stick into the roller and tap it
gently, driving the cap points in ; then
replace the ferrule and dogs, and the
roller is in condition for use.

Drying Photo Films Rapidly

Waiting for photographic films to
dry is often tedious, particularly when

The Current of the Fan Dries the Films Rapidly

the photographer is in haste to see the
results of his efiforts at picture taking.

The method of drying the films shown
in the sketch will aid materially in the
process. The films are held by small
spring clips attached to the wire frame
surrounding the fan, and when the cur-
rent is turned on, the films are blown
away from the fan and held suspended
in a diagonal position. — Contributed by
W. J. Clausius, Chicago, 111.

Applying and Drying Bronze Powders

Surfaces may be coated readily with
bronze powder by applying a thin coat
of shellac and quickly dusting the pow-
der over it. Speed is important in
dusting on the powder, as if the shellac
hardens it will not hold the bronze.
Surfaces which have been bronzed in
this way may be polished if additional
coats of shellac or varnish are applied
over them.

Forceps for Weeding Garden

Difficulty in removing small weeds
around plants in the garden may be
overcome by the
use of a forceps
made of a piece
of wire, as
s h o w n in the
illustration. The
wire is formed
into two loops by
which the weeds
are grasped, and
the portion held
in the hand is bent to form a circular
spring. Its tension may be regulated
so that the hand will not be tired in
using the device. — Contributed by Irv-
ing McEwen, New Westminster, B. C,
Canada.

Shielding Pictures from Damp Walls

Injury to pictures from dampness of
walls may be prevented by fixing small
disks of cork to the lower edge of the
frame so as to form a contact with the
wall only at the cork. This permits a
current of air to pass between the wall
and frame.

1 1

M. itKL

IC^aHH^R^^^^l

^mk^^

— ^V.

New Method of Developing Roll Films

By T. B. LAMBERT

TUMBLER

MANY devices have been made for
developing and fixing roll films.
There is the simple wholesale method
of the professional who hangs a weight
on one end of the' film and lets it down
in a deep tank of developing fluid where
it hangs submerged from an upper
support until the development is com-
plete. Then the support, the film, and
attached weight are removed, dipped
into a similar tank of running water,
then to another tank of fixing solution,
and subsequently
washed and dried.

This is the only
practical plan
where there are
many such films
to be handled si-
multaneously, but
the amateur who
has only one or
two rolls a week
cannot afford the
tanks, the space,
nor the expense
incident to such
a method. The film is usually drawn
back and forth through a developing
solution placed in a tray, and after
the development has proceeded far
enough, the same process used in
washing, then the hypo solution, and
finally through the last washing for
about 20 minutes, all making a tedious
process.

Some amateurs and a few profes-
sionals who but occasionally develop
a roll film use a mechanical device that
rolls the film into a light-proof package
which is inserted in a metal tank for
development and subsequent fixation.

GLASS ROD

An Ordinary Drinking Glass Used for Developing
Roll Films

This is a standard process, the appara-
tus being on sale at all supply houses,
but it has its drawbacks.

The following method is not only
simple but perfect in its operation and
requires no special apparatus, only a
tumbler or lemonade glass, and an ordi-
nary lead pencil for its operation. A
glass rod is preferable to the lead pen-
cil, and it is also convenient to have a
deep tin cup, or similar device, to
cover up the lemonade glass and
make it light-
proof, should it be
desirable to turn
on the white light
in the dark room.
Pour enough
developing solu-
tion into the glass
tumbler to cover
completely the
roll of film when
it is standing on
end. In the dark
room open the
film roll, remove
the backing paper and the paper ends
on the film, run it through clear water
until it is thoroughly and uniformly
wetted from end to end, and drop it
endwise into the tumbler of developer.
Immediately insert the pencil or glass
rod into the center of the roll, and
with a rather quick circular motion,
move the rod around so that it will
quickly pass between the several con-
volutions of the film and thus distrib-
ute the developer all over its surface.
Repeat this operation at once, then
again in a few seconds, then in 15 or
20 seconds, then in 30 seconds, then

33y

340

in 1 minute, and so on, witn greater
intervals of time. If a 20-minute devel-
oper is used, it will only be necessary,
at the latter part of the development,
to separate the layers every 2- or 3
minutes.

When the development is complete,
pour off the solution and rinse in the
same glass by letting water run
through it while passing the pencil or
glass rod between the layers several
times. The water may then be drained
off, and the glass filled with the fixing
solution. While the film is fixing, the
glass rod should be passed between
the layers several times to renew the
solution in contact with the film.

It will be seen that at no time after
the first washing is it necessary to
handle the film, so that damage to the
film and staining the fingers are en-
tirel}' eliminated. Further than that,
no apparatus is tied up in the opera-
tion, and if a light-proof cup is at hand,
the developing tumbler may be covered
between the operations of separating
the layers of film, and the white light
of the dark room can be turned on for
further operations.

Swinging Bags on the Arms of a
Scarecrow

The ordinary ragman used as a scare-
crow can be made more effective by
adding to it something to make it
move, or some part that flutters in the
wind. This can be accomplished in
one way by blowing up paper bags to
expand them to their full extent, tying
the openings as if they were filled with

some commodity for the household,
and fastening them to the arms of the
dummy as shown. These will swing
and flutter about in a way that will ma-
terially aid in scaring away the birds
that damage the crops.

An Artistic Card Tray

Serving and card trays can be made
very beautiful and artistic with the use
of butterflies, natural grasses, and the
fluffy part taken from the milkweed
pod, formed to make a natural scene
beneath the glass bottom of the tray.
If an old tray is to be used, remove the
old panel, or painting, beneath the
glass bottom, and clean the glass thor-
oughly. Lay it upside down on a flat
table top and carefully place on it a
cluster of grass, or weeds, or some
botanical specimens, that are well
dried. Arrange the dried butterflies in
a natural way around the grasses with
their backs, or tops of the wings, facing
out, or on the glass.

The silky down of the milkweed
seed, with the seed removed, is used
to cover the specimens and grass,
which forms the most delicate back-
ground possible. It is laid on quite
thick at the bottom of the scene, grad-
ually thinning it toward the top. Be
careful to see that the fibers of the
down are placed so that they will radi-
ate from the bottom of the grasses to
the outer edges. A piece of white,
pearl, or gray cardboard is then placed
on this background, and another glass
or board back is sealed tightly over the
whole with glue or wax. — Contributed
by Joe v. Romig, Allentown, Pa.

Scarecrow with Swinging Paper Bags on the Arms
in the Place of the Hands

Deodorizing Lard Buckets

Lard buckets are the most easily ob-
tained and the most satisfactory of
utensils in which to pack food, or cook
for a small picnic or camping party, but
it is very difticult to remove the odor
of the lard. This may be easily accom-
plished by boiling the grounds from
the coffeepot in the bucket with about
one pint of water.

A Parlor Cue Alley

By C. QUINCY IVES

PARLOR cue alley is really a game
of bowling except that it is played
on a small raised board, and, instead of
throwing the balls by hand, an ordinary
billiard cue is used,
the balls being about
11/4 in. in diameter.
The automat'

feature of this new game saves the
time usually required to set up the pins,
and assures that they will be set abso-
lutely true each time.

To build this alley, first
procure three planed
boards, hard wood pre-
ferred, though they are
more difficult to
work ; two, 10 ft.
long, 9 in. wide, and
1^ in. thick, and the

anaBBBBDOBH

■■■■ ■■■■■■»■

The Alley Board

with Its

Attachments

Other, 10 ft. long, 15 in.
wide, and i/^ in. thick.
Place the first two
boards side by side and
fasten them with cleats,
the first cleat being
placed 18 in. from the
end to be used for the
pins. The cleats should

341

342

be of % or %-'m. material and cut as
long as the upper board is wide, or 15
in. These are placed on top of the
lower boards, or between the two. By
placing the first one 18 in. from the
end, clearance is obtained for the trap
A. The other board is placed on the
cleats and fastened, after it has been
centrally located, with screws from the
under side. The screws must not come
through or the surface of the upper
board be marred in any way so that
the balls cannot roll freely. The dif-
ference in width of the lower board and
the upper one provides ll^-in. clear-
ance on each side as grooves for the
return of the balls.

Inclose the alley with boards, 3 in.
wide and Y^ in. thick, to the point B,
and from there around the pin end with
boards, 6 in. wide. The upper board
should be cut to such a length that a
space of 2 in. at the end C will be pro-
vided. Into this space is fitted a block
of wood, about y^ in. thick, having its
upper surface slightly pitched toward
the sides of the alley to start the balls
back to the front of the board. From
the ends of this block two strips, II/2
in. wide, are fitted into the side grooves,
from D to E, on an incline, to return
the ball after each shot.

The location of each pin is marked
on the end of the upper board, and
small holes are drilled just large
enough to admit pieces of stout cord,
like a fishline, to pass through freely.
The pins are made of hard wood, care-
fully balanced, so that one end will not

be heavier than the other. The lower
end of each pin is drilled to make a
recess, F, in which the cord is fastened
with a screw or nail. Holes are bored
through the bottom board, "§ in. in
diameter, to correspond to the 10 small
holes made through the upper one.
Lead weights of about 2 oz. are fitted
in the holes and attached to the strings
from the pins. The ends of the weights
should extend about i,v, in. from the
under side of the alley.

Attach a board, 18 in. square, with
hinges to the end of the alley so that
it will hang under the weights. A
stout cord is run along the under side
of the alley to the front end through
screw eyes, and attached to the swing-
ing board. By letting the board swing
down the weights are released and
they draw the pins into a standing po-
sition, accurately set for the next
break. When set, the line is drawn,
and the swinging board pushes the
weights up and releases the pins.

The balls used are made of hard
wood, and, if it is not desirable to make
them, they can be purchased from a toy
store. They are I14 ™- iri diameter.
Each player has three shots. The ball
is placed on the spot G and shot with
a billiard cUe, the object being to
knock down as many pins as possible;
the score is kept as in bowling.

Horses can be made of metal and
wood, as shown, for holding the alley
at the proper height. The alley can be
used on a large table, but horses are
more convenient.

The Glass-and-Hat Trick

The efifect of this trick is as follows :
The performer first exhibits a small
table, about 2 ft. square, the top of
which is covered with black velvet. He
requests the loan of a Derby hat and a
handkerchief, then takes an ordinary
glass, filled with water, and places it on
the table top, covers it with the hand-
kerchief, and sets the hat on top of the
glass. He then withdraws a short dis-
tance, and at a command, the glass ap-
pears to pass slowly through both hand-

kerchief and hat until the hat rests on
the table top. The hat is then taken up
and is handed to the owner, wdio finds
the glass of water in the hat.

While this is seemingly impossible,
the effect can be easily accomplished
and the necessary apparatus can be
made up cheaply if a table of suitable
size can be had. although a kitchen table
may be used if so desired, but a table
about 3 ft. square is preferred, because
it can be easily carried. The table is
prepared as follows : Procure a block
of wood, about 3 in. square and l^/^ in.

343

thick, and glue it to the under side of
the table in the center. Bofe a Yi-in.
hole through both the table top and the

glass. As the handkerchief is held in
front of the glass the assistant pulls the
disk up ; thus the handkerchief is placed

block of wood. The top of the table
must be covered with some black cloth,
such as velvet. Using the hole bored as
a ce'nter, cut out a piece of the table top
to correspond with the diameter of the
glass to be used, and about % in. deep.
Fit into this depression a piece of round
sheet brass. Procure a i,4-in. rod, about
6 in. long, and fasten the brass disk to
one end of it so that the disk will fit into
the round depression when the rod i.s
run through the hole in the table top
and block. The other, or lower, end of
the rod is filed flat, and a small hole is
drilled tlirough it, the edges being
smoothed to receive a thread. The top
of the brass disk is covered with the
same material as is used for covering
the table top. This will make it appear
to be one piece covering the table top.
Fasten a strong black thread to one
corner of the table top on the under
side, and run it througli the hole drilled
through the end of the rod, then over a
small window-curtain roller fastened
into the opposite corner of the table
top, where the thread is run down a
table leg and through another pulley
out under a rug or the floor to an assist-
ant where the thread will not be seen.
The metal disk can then be controlled
without any apparent power. If the
rod extends under the table too far,
drape some velvet or fancy cloth around
the table edge to cover it.

To begin the trick, the performer ex-
hibits the glass of water, then sets it
on the table just back of the disk, and
in placing the borrowed handkerchief
it is put on the disk rather than the

BRASS DISK
SOLDERED ON
ROD

^THREAD OPERATED BY
CONCEALED ASSISTANT

Apparently the Class Filled with Water Passes Up

through the Crown of the Hat and is Taken

from It When the Trick is Completed

on the disk and the glass of water is left
uncovered just behind it. The per-
former then starts to put the borrowed
hat on the glass, crown up, and when,
seeing his mistake, he apologizes, turns
the hat over, and in doing so picks up
the glass of water and places it in the
hat. The hat is then set on the disk
with the crown down. In turning the
hat the glass is taken up with the first
two fingers of the right hand. When
the hat is raised, the glass is also raised
with it, and while doing this the hat is
slanted so as to hide the glass. In turn-
ing the hat over, the glass is brought
into it. This is quite hard to explain,
but a little practice will enable the per-
former to make no mistake. When the
hat is placed on the disk the assistant
slowly lets the disk down. It is very
necessary to let the hat down slowly, as
a sudden jerk is apt to tumble the hat
over and spoil it as well as the trick.
When the hat comes to rest on the table
top, it is removed and handed to the
owner with the glass of water in it.

344

Wire-Mesh Support for Flowei
Centerpiece

Pansies, violets, or other short-
stemmed flowers cannot easily be
shown to ad-
\antage i n a
table centerpiece
unless properly
supported. By
placing a frame
of wire mesh in the dish, as shown in
the sketch, the stems of the flowers
may be set in the openings, giving a
neat and eflfective display. — Victor
Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.

False Bottom for Emptying
Wastebasket

In order to avoid handling paper and
other material which sometimes sticks
in a wastebas-
ket, I arranged a
false bottom in
the receptacle, as
shown in the
sketch. A hole
was cut in the bottom of the basket and
a square board, nearh' as large as the
bottom, was fitted over it, and a leather
handle provided. The basket may be
emptied quickly by forcing out the false
bottom, without the hands touching the
contents. — Harold Laughlin, Reading,
Michigan.

Making Use of Refrigerator in Winter

By fitting a 3-in. pipe into the lower
part of a refrigerator so that a draft
of cool air from
outdoors is avail-
able in cold
weather, it may
be used without
ice for a con-
siderable part of
the year. The
top is left open
slightly, and a
piece of cheesecloth is tied over the
outside end of the pipe, to prevent dust
from entering. A tin shutter is placed
on the inside of the refrigerator to close

the pipe in extremely cold weather.
This arrangement has proved quite
satisfactory for the winter storage of
food. — R. R. Dowsley, Prescott,
Canada.

Inkwell Base Made from Fuse Socket

Workers in the munitions industry
frequently devise small useful or orna-
mental objects in

FUSE SOCKET

imitation of, or
from, discarded
parts on which
they work. The
inkwell shown in
the sketch was
made from a re-
jected fuse socket of a shrapnel shell.
It was fitted with a glass container and
fastened into a wooden base.

Valve-Bottom Pail for Dipping Water

An ordinary pail may be converted
into a convenient device for dipping
water by fitting
a valve into the
bottom, as shown
in the sketch.
Fasten a piece of
soft leather to
the bottom of
a block, 3 in.
square, and fix
this to the bot-
tom of the bucket by means of a small
hinge. By pushing the bucket bottom
down into the water, the latter rises up
through the valve until the bucket is
full. By lifting it the valve is closed.
This device fitted to a tall milk pail is
especially convenient. — R. S. Matzen,
Fort Collins, Colo.

A Shoe-Polishing Strop

It is awkward to shine one's shoes
with a long strip of cloth as is done by
a shoe shiner to produce a high polish.
An eflfective substitute method is to
suspend from the wall a strip of cloth,
about 5 in. wide, doubled to a length of
3(1 in., and rub the shoes on it before
putting them on.

345

A Magic Cabinet

The performer calls the attention of
his audience to a cabinet mounted on
short legs and having doors in the
front, back, and top. The back door is
opened, then the top and front, and an
arm is thrust through to show that the
cabinet is empty and without double
doors or double walls. The performer
also puts his wand beneath the box to
show that there is no deception there.
The doors are then closed, except the
top, and reaching down, he takes out
any number of articles, from handker-
chiefs to rabbits, and then the front
door is opened to show the box is
empty, but upon closing the front door
again, he is still able to produce articles
until the supply is exhausted. Won-
derful though this trick may appear, it
is very simple, and if a person is handy
with tools, it can be made from lumber
taken from a packing box.

To make the cabinet, nail together,
in the shape of a rectangle, two pieces,
16 in. long, 14 in. wide, and % in. thick,
and two pieces 14 in. square and i/o in.
thick. To one of the latter pieces fasten
four legs, one at each corner. In the
opposite piece, or the top, make an
opening in the center, 8 in. square.
This opening is covered with a door
8iy^ in. square, supplied with a knob to
open it easily. A piece, 16 in. long and
14 in. wide, with an attached knob, is
hinged to the front, for a door ; also an-
other for the back hinged in the same
manner and with a knob. In the back
there is a cutout made, 9 in. long and
7 in. wide, in the center. In this open-
ing a swinging box is hung to hold the
articles taken from the cabinet. The
swinging box is made of two pieces, 9
in. long and 7 in. wide, and two pieces
about I/O in. larger each way, nailed to-
gether on ends, cut triangular. This
box is hinged in the opening so that it
will swing in or out as desired and
show a panel on either side of the door.
The front door should have a panel
nailed on each side of equal size, to
make both doors appear alike.

After loading all the things desired
to be shown in the triangular box, start

the trick by pushing this box into the
cabinet and showing the outside; then
open the back, and in doing so, push
the triangular box out as the door
swings back and away from the au-
dience. This shows that there is noth-

Open the Front Door and Top of the Cabinet and

It will Appear Empty

ing to be seen but the panel. Open the
front door and top, and the cabinet will
appear empty. Close both front and
back doors, and in making this change,
push the triangular box in, and begin
to take the things out through the top
door.

By careful construction the cabinet
can be made so that the doors will open
freely and the triangular box swing
easily so that it will not be seen in op-
erating it. With a clever performer
this trick is without an equal, as many
variations can be made in the perform-
ance.

Countersinking a Hole Smoothly

When a hole in a piece of steel, iron,
or brass is being countersunk, the drill
usually chatters, making the counter-
sink rough. Where a smooth hole is
required, it is best to make the coun-
tersink first and drill the hole after-
ward. By doing so the hole will be
perfectly smooth. — Contributed by
Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.

346

Receptacle for Shellac Varnish Tooth Powder Used on Tracing Cloth

LEATHER
WASHER

A simple, inexpensive, and practical
pot and cover for holding shellac var-
nish in the pat-
tern shop, or at
home, is shown
in the sketch. It
consists of a base
made of wood
having in the
center a counter-
bore nito which
a glass tumbler,
or other con-
tainer, is fitted.
For the cover an
ordinary flower-
pot is used, fit-
ting down over a ring on the base. An
accumulation of shellac around the
top cannot come in contact with the
cover. The brush extends through the
hole in the bottom of the flowerpot
and is held suspended by means of a
leather washer resting on it. — Con-
tributed by J. D. Roberts, Kenosha,
Wisconsin.

Homemade Vaporizer

A simple vaporizer which can be
used by designers to project their col-
ors in a flu id
spray, or by
housekeepers to
disinfect or per-
fume their apart-
m e n t s, can be
made in the fol-
lowing manner :
Tjvo goose quills
are forced
through holes in
a cork at right angles to each other,
as shown. Place the vertical quill in
a bottle containing the fluid to be
sprayed and by blowing through the
horizontal quill a very effective spray
will be produced. — Contributed by
Hazel Kolar, Maywood, 111.

COM wringer clamps, used for holding
the wringer to the tub, are very handy
around a workbench.

Tooth powder is an excellent substi-
tute for the powders which are sold for
the purpose of preparing the glossy
surface of tracing linen to receive ink.
The gritty element removes the excess
gloss which prevents the ink from tak-
ing hold. A second dusting with talcum
powder makes a perfect surface for ink-
ing: in.

A Small Gas Furnace

A small gas furnace for melting
small quantities of gold, silver, or
other metals, can be easily made as
follows : Procure a cylinder of stove-
pipe iron of the desired size, say 4I/2 or
5 in. in diameter, and 6 in. long. Turn
in the edge of one end so that it will
hold loosely a disk of iron of the same
thickness as the cylinder, to form the
bottom. Punch

-hole:

•^

u
0

% - in. holes,
about 1 in. apart,
all over the cyl-
i n d e r and the
bottom. This is
to allow for the
escape of moist-
ure and air. At-
tach three legs
to the sides with
rivets, evenly
spaced so as to
raise the bottom
4 in. In the side of the cylinder cut a
hole, 11/4 in. in diameter, its center be-
ing li/o in. from the bottom. Select
a glass bottle whose diameter is 1 or
11/2 in. less than that of the cylinder.

Make a putty of fire clay, and add
about five per cent of plaster of Paris,
and also add about a teaspoonful of
vinegar, to prevent a too rapid setting.
Place a mass of the putty in the bot-
tom of the cylinder and press in the
bottle after its surfaces have been
well greased. The bottle should be
well centered in the cylinder. Press
the bottle well down, so that its bot-
tom is on a level with the lower edge
of the hole in the side. Fill in the
putty to form the sides, tamping it

347

well all around the bottle, and build it
up a little above the metal of the sides,
carefully smoothing off the edge.
With the fingers, or a spatula of some
kind, cut out the putty in the hole to
form an opening, ^4 in. in diameter.
Allow the putty to set for more than
an hour, and then with a circular, or
twisting, motion remove the bottle.
To prevent a vacuum in the bottom
that will prevent removing the bottle
easily, puncture the putty that lies on
the disk with a hatpin, to allow the
air to pass in.

A few places will be found where
the putty has not filled in properly,
and these should be patched up while
the filling is yet soft. The clay will
probably shrink after standing for a
time, and should be pressed out
against the sides while in a plastic
state. When dry, the furnace is ready
for use.

In furnaces of this kind the jet of a
large gas blowtorch is to be used. If
a standard is rigged up to hold the
blowtorch, it will be much easier for
the operator. The jet from the pipe is
thrown in the hole at the side and a
crucilile is placed in the furnace. It
is well to make a cover similar to the
body of the furnace with a hole in the
center a little larger than the hole in
the side.

A more efficient furnace can be
made with two holes in the side, op-
posite each other, for using a double
jet from blowtorches. — Contributed by
James H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.

The Magic Clock Hand

The hand, or pointer, is the only
working part needed to perform the
trick. A clockface can be drawn on
any piece of white paper, and a pin
stuck in its center on which the hand
revolves. The hand A is cut from a
piece of sheet brass, and may be in
any form or design desired, but it must
balance perfectly on the axle, which
passes through a %-in. hole in the
center, or else the magic part will fail.
The illustration shows a good design

with dimensions that will cause it to
balance well ; however, this can be ad-
justed by removing some metal from
the end that is heavier with a file or
tinner's snips, or a bit of solder may
be stuck to the lighter end.

gig

s ■

^ 6

H 15^^—

Design of a Hand That will Balance Well and the
Parts for Its Axle

A disk, B, is cut from a piece of sheet
brass, 1% in. in diameter, twelve ^o-i"-
holes are drilled at equal distances
apart near the edge, and a i/4-in. hole
is drilled in its center. This disk is
soldered to the hand where both Vi-'m.
holes will coincide. It is necessary to
procure two washers, C and D, that
are embossed, or raised, in the center,
and about V^ in. in diameter. These
can be purchased from a dealer in cur-
tain rods, the rod parts wanted being
the washers used on the ends. A care-
ful mechanic can raise the center por-
tion of a brass disk by beating it over
a hole with a ball-peen hammer.

One of the washers, C, has a spring,
E, soldered at one end, and the other
carries a small projection that will en-
gage the holes in the disk, B. The

348

projection can be made by driving the
metal out with a center punch, set on
the opposite side.

The washer D is provided with a
lead weight, F, and a %-in. stud, G,
is soldered in the center. The stud has
a Me'in- hole drilled through its center
for the pin axle. The weight is made
by filling the washer with melted lead,
which when cold is removed and sawn
in two. One piece is then stuck in the
washer with shellac. The stud is %
in. long with the upper part, about Vl
in. in length, filed, or turned down,
smaller, and threaded. Just below the

A Number is Mentioned
and the Performer Gives
the Washers a Twist to
Set the Concealed
Weight so That the
Hand When Hung
on the Dial will be
Drawn toPointOut
the Number
Selected

thread, or on the shoulder, the body is
filed square to fit a square hole filed
in the face washer C carrying the
spring. This square hole and stud end
are necessary in order that both
washers may turn together.

The dial can be made of a piece of
thick cardboard, or thin wood, with the
numbers from 1 to 12 painted on, like
a clockface. A pin, Yiq in. in diameter,
or an ordinary large pin, is run through
the center so that it will project on
the face side on which the hand is to
revolve.

The washer D with the weight is
placed on the rear side of the hand
with the fixed stud run through the
hole in the center of the hand ; then
the washer C is placed on the square
part of the stud, and the nut J, which
should have a round, knurled edge, is
turned on the threads. This will cause
the projection on the spring E to en-
gage one of the small holes on the
disk B. In turning the two washers,
C and D, with the thumb and first
finger of the right hand, the projection
snapping into the holes of the disk B
can be felt. The hand is placed on the
pin of the clockface. and the
washers are turned so that the
weight will make it point to
12. Scratch a mark on the
hand at H, also mark a line
on the front washer at this
point. These lines are neces-
sary, as they enable the per-
former to know how many
holes to snap the spring over
to have the hand point at any
desired number.

By reversing the hand it will
point to a dififerent number;
for instance, if set for 8 and
put on the pin backward, it
will point to 4, and so on, with
other settings. The dial can
be held in the hand, hung on
a stand, or fastened to a wall,
and can be used to tell the day
of the week, time of day, cards
selected, etc. The audience
can call for any number on the
clockface, and the setting of
the disks is an easy matter
while holding the hand, or pointer, in
the hands, so that it cannot be detected.

Uses for Steel Wool

The use of steel wool in place of
sandpaper when finishing off new or
old work, when preparing it for var-
nishing or other finishes, will be found
very helpful. It is put up in small pack-
ages and can be obtained in several
grades of fineness. It is especially use-
ful when removing old finishes, in and
around moldings, etc., since it conforms

349

to irregular shapes as sandpaper will
not. Put on a pair of heavy canvas
gloves when using steel wool. They
will keep the fine slivers out of the skin.
These gloves will also be found useful
when varnishing and painting.

Turning Long Wood Rods

To turn a long wood rod of small
diameter is not an easy job for the
amateur, and a suitable tool for the
purpose is seldom found in the ama-
teur's outfit. The tool illustrated can
be easily made from materials that are
always at hand. A block of hard wood,
A, is first provided, and a hole, B, large
enough to admit the square strip from
which the rod is to be turned, is bored
in the end, whereupon the hole C,
which has the diameter of the finished
rod, is bored through the block. The
hole D is next bored at right angles to
the axis of the hole C, and so placed
that its edge just touches the outer
edge of the hole C. This hole is to re-
ceive an ordinary gouge, and must be
of such size as to receive the gouge
snugly.

The gouge is ground back far enough
on the under side to make the cutting
edge level with its back, and then bev-
eled off on the inside to a sharp edge.
The gouge E is placed in the hole D
with the cutting edge on the center
line, as shown, and held in place with
a wood plug, F. A little soap applied
to the bore C will prevent binding.

A F D C

A Block of Wood Fashioned to Hold an Ordinary
Gouge for Turning Small Wood Rods

To use the tool, a strip of wood is
pointed sufficiently to allow it to enter
the hole C a short distance. The strip
may be rotated by holding it in the
chuck of a lathe while the tool is held
in the hand, using the handle of the
gouge to prevent its turning with the
stick. — Contributed by J. A. Erearley,
Washington, D. C.

Hanging Ladder for a Hatchway

A handy ladder to swing from a
hatchway can be made of a solid

plank, as shown.
Cut the plank to
the length de-
sired and saw
notches on each
side to form
steps. With a
solid hook to
fasten it in a
similar hook in
the ceiling, at
the edge of the
opening, it
makes a novel
yet practical
ladder. — Con-
tributed by Vic-
t o r Carpenter,
South Bend, Ind.

An Oilcan
Stopper

An empty car-
tridge shell
makes an excel-
lent stopper for
an oilcan in case
the original
stopper becomes lost. The cap in the
shell is removed and the hole enlarged
with the tang of a file so that a leather
thong can be inserted. A knot is tied
in the thong on both sides of the base,
to prevent the thong from slipping
either way. The end of the thong is
tied to the bail of the can.

Enamel for Steel Fishing Rods

Make a thin solution of shellac in al-
cohol and add a teaspoonful of Venice
turpentine to each half pint, and the
same quantity of lampblack for a black
enamel. Scrape the bare spots on the
rod and heat it slightly, to melt the
shellac for the first coat. Use a fine
brush and apply two or three coats,
which will give a smooth, glossy, and
elastic surface that will not scale or
crack.

350

Bench Receptacles for Small Articles

When working with small, round ar-
ticles, such as ball bearings, it often
happens that they roll off the bench and
are lost. To remedy this, I bored sev-
eral holes, each 2 in. in diameter, in a
convenient place in the workbench top,
making them about '"s in. deep, for the
different articles. To make the small
parts easily accessible the holes were
filled in with thick paste made of
plaster of Paris which was molded into
a saucer shape. After the plaster be-
came thoroughly dry the inner surface
was painted over with white enamel.
This made them easily cleaned with a
damp cloth. Any article dropped into
these depressions will roll to the cen-
ter, and as the sides are curved it
can be easily picked up when it is
wanted. — Contributed by Frank L.
Matter, Portland, Oregon.

Ruler with Round and Flat Edges

Picking up a smooth piece of ordi-
nary wood molding, intending to use
it as a ruler, I found that its shape. A,
combined the properties of the round
ruler and flat ruler, as well as assum-
ing the third position D. A simple

The Molding Presents a Round Edge for a Pen and
a Flat One for a Pencil

reverse changes the edge from a round
to a sharp or flat, accommodating it
to a pen or pencil, as shown. Such a
piece of molding can be procured from
a local lumber dealer. — Contributed by
James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

A Trouser Hanger

A wood frame, similar to a picture
frame, is made up and hinged to the
inner side of the closet door with its
outer edge hung on two chains. The

The Trousers can be Easily Hung on the Cross Bars
to Keep the Crease in Them

inside of the frame is fitted with cross
bars. After hanging the trousers on
the cross bars the frame is swung up
against the door where it is held with
a hook. Several pairs of trousers can
be hung on the frame, and when flat
against the door it takes up very little
space. The trousers are kept flat so that
they will hold their crease.

An Emergency Alcohol Stove

If a person starts on a picnic with a
ketchup bottle full of wood alcohol
placed in the lunch basket and suddenly
discovers that the alcohol stove was
left at home, it is not necessary to
walk back to get it ; just unscrew the
cover of the ketchup bottle and bunch
a piece of cloth large enough to fill the
top, soak it thoroughly in the alcohol
and light it. The metal top is just the
right size to make a hot flame.

CA box 81,4 in. square and 4 in. deep
will hold one gallon.

Fireside Dissolving Views

By SUSAN E. W. JOCELYN

TO those interested in amateur the-
atricals the following method of
showing dissolving views in the fire-
light of pipe dreams and mind pictures
will be appreciated.

A frame made of light inaterial, A,
Fig. 1, covered with red cloth and
chalked to represent brick, is placed in
the center of the stage. The central
opening, representing the fireplace,
must be rather large, about 12 ft. wide
and 7 ft. high, because it is at the back
of this opening that the pictures are
produced. From the chimney back, Si^-o
ft. behind this opening, the sides, B, of
the fireplace slope outward to the imi-
tation brickwork. The walls of the

fireplace are covered with sheet as-
bestos, for safety, and painted black;
then ashes are rubbed on the chimney
back and scattered over the hearth-
stone, to make the appearance more
realistic.

The chimney back is removable, in
fact it is one of a series of a half dozen
screens, the others being behind it, the
proper manipulation of which, together
with changing lights, gives to the audi-
ence the effect of dissolving views of
the dreams that are being acted out
directly behind the screens.

The screens are carried in a light
frame, the top of which is shown in
Fig. 2, with position of runs. The runs

The Tableau is Played Out behind the Screens and is Dimly Seen through the Fireplace Opening When the
Lights are Properly Controlled and the Screens Drawn Slowly

a51

352

are made of narrow strips of wood,
fastened to the under side of two end
pieces, for the screen frames to slide in.
Corresponding strips are placed in a
suitable position on the floor, to keep
the screens steady in sliding. The
frames holding the run pieces are
longer than the chimney back is wide,
and the upper one is placed as high as
the brickwork, the shelf, or mantel,
over the fireplace being an extension of
the upper part, or frame. The screens
are in pairs, as shown in Fig. 3, each
one extending to the center of the fire-
place. They consist of light frames
covered witla black mosquito netting.
The upper and lower sides of the
frames are sandpapered smooth so that
they will move easily in the runs. The
vertical sides of a pair of screen frames
that meet in the center of the fireplace
are made of one strand of wire, instead
of wood, so that their motion will not
be noticeable. To complete the appa-
ratus, andirons and a gas log are
needed in the fireplace, and whatever
arrangements are necessary for the ac-
tion of the views to be shown behind
the screens.

If gas is available, an asbestos log is
used in the fireplace, and it has a con-
necting pipe to the footlights, where
four or five jets are located on the floor
just back of the screens. A narrow
board, painted black, is placed in front

of the lights, which should be wide
enough to conceal the lights from the
spectators and reflect the light on the
tableau. If the light is thrown above
the imitation brickwork, then it should
be made higher.

In most halls, and some houses, elec-
tric lights are used instead of gas, and
in this case ordinary logs are piled in
the fireplace on the andirons, and one
or more red globes are introduced to
produce the effect of glowing embers.
The gas is more effective, however, be-
cause it is not easy to get a gradual
rise and fall in the glow of electric
lights. Four or five footlights are
sufficient.

The working of the dissolving views
can be best explained by an illustra-
tion from "Reveries of a Bachelor."
The gas log is turned low to make
the stage dimly lighted, and the tableau
to be shown is all arranged behind the
chimney back and the screens. There
should be barely sufficient light to
reveal the bachelor on the hearthstone
smoking in the gloaming. Then the
chimney back almost imperceptibly
parts, that is, the screens of the first
pair are gradually pulled apart, the
footlights and gas log are gradually
turned on, and the tableau behind the
fireplace, being more brightly illumi-
nated, is dimly seen through the series
of screens. Slowly the successive pairs

Fio.l

Frames Made of Light Material and Covered with Black Mosquito Netting Serve as Screens Which are

Operated in Runs Located behind the Fireplace That is Made Up in a Like

Manner and Penciled to Represent Brick

n.53

of screens are drawn aside, and the
tableau becomes' quite distinct. Then
the process is reversed, the screens are
gradually replaced, the lights are low-
ered and the dream fades away ; bright-
ens and fades again ; brightens and
fades, till gone entirely. The screens
are always slowly moving while the
tableau is exposed, and this makes the
illusory effect. It is evident that the
success of this plan depends principally
on the coordination with which the
screens are operated. "Cinderella," and
many other tales based on the vagaries
of the mind and having their source in
glowing embers, can thus be presented.

the device illustrated is used, a view
of the resultant photograph may be ob-
tained, right side up, and of nearly the
same size as the finished print.

Imitation-Celluloid Scales and Name
Plates

Often the amateur turns out a very
workmanlike piece of apparatus, which
only lacks the addition of a scale or
name plate to give it a truly profes-
sional appearance. I recently hit upon
an excellent method of making these
articles in a manner that will stand
considerable wear and at the same time
present a very good appearance.
Simply take a piece of good Bristol
board and letter it as desired with
waterproof drawing ink, then apply a
coat of clear varnish, such as is used
on bird's-eye maple furniture. After
not less than 24 hours rub lightly with
fine steel wool, wipe clean, and revar-
iiish. Usually two coats are sufficient,
and the last should be rubbed with a
soft oily rag dipped in some abrasive
material such as tooth powder, or one
of the many powders used for metal
polishing. Finally polish with a little
oil, and the result will be a perfect imi-
tation of celluloid. — Contributed by
John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.

Direct View Finder for a Box Camera

Disappointment in the taking of pic-
tures with a small camera is often
caused by the inability of the photog-
rapher to obtain an accurate view of
what he is photographing. If, instead
of the small view finder on the camera,

Sight through the Eyepiece for a Direct View of the

Object Photographed, Thus Insuring More

Nearly the Accuracy of the Result

The distance from the lens of the
camera to the front surface of the plate
or film must be determined. In the
camera shown this was 4io in. The
distance from the small metal eye-
piece, when it is in place on the box, to
the inner side of the opposite end of
the box must be made i/> in. shorter
than this measurement. This will cause
the box to be shorter than the camera.

The box is constructed so that the
sides extend above the top and engage
the camera. The view-finder eyepiece
is made from a flat piece of sheet metal,
laid out as shown, and bent into the
desired shape. It is fixed over the cen-
ter of the end of the box. The sight
hole must be Y^o in. in diameter. By
sighting through the small opening in
the eyepiece an unobstructed view of
the prospective photograph is obtained.
— Contributed by A. S. Thomas, Am-
herstburg, Ont.

354

Checking a Rip in Tire Tubes

It is often difficult to prevent a small
rip in an inner tube of a tire from be-
coming longer, even though a patch
has been applied. An efTective remedy
is to punch a small round hole at each
end of the rip before applying the
patch. This stops the tendency to rip
farther when pressure is applied. —
Contributed by George H. Holden,
Chesterfield, England.

Protecting Wall Back of Range or

Sink

A simple and attractive protection
for the wall back of the range or sink
in a kitchen was provided by fixing
a piece of plate glass to the wall by
means of round-headed brass screws.
The glass may be washed easily and
can be removed when new wall cover-
ing is applied. — Contributed by Jennie
E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.

Polishing with a Hand Drill

There are certain desired eflfects in
polishing metal that can only be ob-
tained with a true rotary motion. There
is no amount of handwork that will
produce a proper finish on the round
head of a brass screw. Therefore, when
small pieces of metal are to be shaped
up with the file and polished, simply
set them in a three-jaw chuck of a hand
drill, and then clamp the drill in a vise,
as shown in the illustration. Operate
the drill with the left hand and hold
the file, or emery paper, with the right,
and a finish will be obtained that can
in nowise be distinguished from lathe
work. It is surprising how different

Releasing a Parachute from a Kite

Parachutes may be released from,
suspended kites readily by providing
tripping loops on the kite tail, as shown

Pull In
About a Yard
of the Kite
String and
Release It,
Tripping the
Parachute

in the illustration. Form a loop on one
end of a piece of cord, and tie the other
end to the kite tail. Make a loop in one
end of another piece of cord and tie the
other end to the top of the parachute.
Tie a piece of cord around a nail close
to its head and fix this also to the kite
tail. Pass one loop through the other
and insert the nail, as shown in the
sketch. To trip the parachute, pull in
about a yard of string and release it
quickly. The parachute will trip with-
out fail. The end of the string may be
fastened to a stake driven into the
ground or it may be held in the hand.

A Hand Drill Clamped in a Vise and Used to
Polish Round- Head Screws

round-head brass screws appear when
treated in this manner.

A Trick Blotter

An ordinary blotter may be trans-
formed easily so that it will remove
ink completely when applied instead
of leaving sufficient to recognize the
script, by steeping it in a solution of
oxalic acid. Permit it to dry after sev-
eral applications of the acid. It will be
the source of much amusement, and
is useful as well.

Magic Candles Explained

Br CLIFFORD WAYNE

CLEVER and baffling though it may
be, the magic-candle trick may-
be performed easily and with profes-
sional skill by a person who has
made a few simple preparations. The
illustration shows the candles arranged
on a table made of a music stand.

Candles, cigars, or pencils may be
used, but for the purpose of this
description the
former will be
used. The can-
dles are of differ-
ent colors but of
the same size and
weight. The ma-
nipulation is as
follows :

Exhibit a tube
of brass, card-
board, or other
suitable material,
just large enough
to contain a can-
dle. Then retire
from the room,
leaving the tube
on the table while
one of the specta-
tors selects one of
the candles and
places it into the
tube, covering the
end of the latter
securely with a

Mysterious Passes over the Concealed Candle are
Made and Its Color Announced

small cap. The other candles are hidden
before the performer is permitted to re-
turn. The trick is to announce the
color of the candle contained in the
box by merely passing the hand over
it several times. The box and candle
are passed out for inspection and will
bear it if properly prepared.

The secret of the trick is this : The
first candle, for example, the white one,
is unprepared. The second, a blue one,
has concealed in it, % in. from the top,
a small piece of magnetized steel. The
third candle, a red one, has a similar
bar concealed at the middle ; the fourth,
a magnetized bar lo in. from the bot-
tom, and the fifth candle has the bar
at a point halfway
between the mid-
dle and the bot-
tom. The candles
are made of wood
and the magnets
may readily be
imbedded in
them. They are
made of two
pieces glued to-
gether like a pen-
cil.

The performer
hides a small com-
pass in his palm.
It is held in place
by a wire clip,
gripped between
the second and
third fingers near
the knuckles. A
wave of the hand
over the tube con-
taining a candle
will affect the
compass if any candle other than the
white one is used. Its needle will vi-
brate when approaching the concealed
magnet, and by determining quickly
the position of the magnet, the color
may be announced.

Those who offer guesses usually in-
sist that some electrical device is used.

{^^

MAGNET

'1^

a\\

A .

\ UJ '

a. .

356

Desk Slide in Top of Drawer

Placing a lock lid in the top of a
desk drawer provided a writing board

The Lid

Provides a

Writing

Slide and

Gives
Privacy to
the Drawer

and also gave privacy to the drawer,
as shown in the sketch.

A lady's desk in a nicely furnished
room was used for the telephone and
as the desk was often locked there was
no place on which to rest the instru-
ment or to take notes. The drawer lid,
locked with a chest lock, proved effec-
tive. The lid may be moved back so
as to expose the contents of the
drawer. It was finished to match the
desk.— Contributed by Victor Labadie,
Dallas, Tex.

Repairing a Broken Fly-Screen Frame

An old broken fly-screen frame was
made quite rigid with the use of metal
braces, cut as shown and fastened with
nails to each corner. The brace was cut
from sheet metal, and the edges A and
B were cut and bent at right angles
to the main part, with their extreme

j.<%6."»*<.

Sheet-
Metal
Braces
Used on a'
Loose Win-
dow-Screen
Frame to Make It Rigid

edges bent over the frame. These were
sufficient to make the frame as rigid
as a new one.

Raising the Temperature of a Room

The temperature of a room may ap-
parently be raised several degrees'with
the same expenditure of heat, and
greater comfort will result by the ap-
plication of a simple principle. In
summer a moist day seems warmer
than a dry one though the thermome-
ter registers the same. By permitting
steam to escape from a radiator or
keeping a kettle boiling on the stove,
the air is moistened and feels warmer!

A Carbon Electric Water Heater

The water heater illustrated is- for
use on a 110-volt circuit without added
resistance. It consists of two elec-
trodes which are

immersed direct-
ly in the water;
and while it is
^ not as artistic as
the usual nickel-
plated heater, it
is usually more
economical and has the dis-
tinct advantage that it can-
not be burnt out. It may be
made as rapid in action as
desired, is inexpensive and
very convenient where wa
ter is required for experimental or in-
dustrial purposes.

For the electrodes, procure two i/>.

in. uncoppered carbons, and drill a hofe

m the top of each of these so that feed

wires can be attached. The handle is

shaped from a piece of hard wood. The

lower end is hollowed out half round

at cither side, so that the carbons will

fit in snugly. Four small holes are

then drilled through from side to side,

for binding wires, and a large hole is

made in the center for the feed wires.

Two smaller branch holes are then

drilled to join the center hole, so that

the double feed cord may be branched

out to reach both electrodes. The

outer edge of the handle is neatly

rounded off and boiled in paraffin so

as to render it impervious to moisture.

Remove sufficient insulation from

the feed cord to make a good connec-

357

tion with the carbons. Fish the wire
through the handle from the upper end.
Pull each of the two ends pretty well
through, so that they can be securely
leaded into the holes previously made
in the carbons. Have the latter quite
hot and run in as much solder as pos-
sible, forcing it in with the end of a
match as it becomes plastic. Remove
all traces of the flux, and paint the
connection with some melted pitch,
taken from the top of a discarded dry
cell. The feed cord may then be pulled
up tightly, which will draw the car-
bons in place. They are then bound by
threading through several strands of
copper wire. If the holes in the wood
are slightly countersunk, and two
small grooves filed around each carbon
at the right places to let the holding
wires in, the binding feature may be
disposed of very neatly.

In some localities the water is so free
from all mineral salts that it will not
carry the current freely, which means
that the electrodes must be placed
closer together, or else a small pinch
of common salt may be added to the
water. Although, in sterilizing instru-
ments, boiling eggs, or something of
that sort, this would be of no advan-
tage, the salt greatly hastens the
boiling.

An Electrical Dancer

The modification of the well-known
mechanical dancer shown in the illus-
tration is based on the principle of the

When the

Contact is

Made the

Figure

Dances

Preventing Looseness of Drawer
Handles

Drawer handles frequently become
loosened and sometimes cause further
annoyance by falling
to the floor or be-
coming lost, because
the bolt fastening, as
shown in the sketch,
is not secure. This
may be avoided by

inserting a rubber Lrubber BAND
hand between the
head of the bolt and the drawer front.
When the knob is drawn up tightly
the pressure of the rubber band pre-
vents it from becoming loosened. —
Contributed by O. F. Germaine, Akron,
Ohio.

electric bell. While the amusing antics
of the mechanical dancer are controlled
by the hand, the manikin shown is
actuated by the electromagnet.

The mechanism is contained in a
box. It consists of an electromagnet
with a soft-iron armature carried by a
spring. A wire from the battery goes
to the magnet. The other terminal of
the magnet connects with the arma-
ture spring at L 1. The spring is bent
at a right angle at its other end, L 2,
and carries a platform, L 3, strength-
ened by a smaller disk underneath.
The dancer performs upon this plat-
form.

A contact spring, S, is carried by the
armature spring. A contact screw, C,
is adjustable in its contact with the
spring S. A wire runs from the con-
tact screw to the binding post B, to
which the other battery wire is con-
nected.

The current keeps the platform in
constant vibration, causing the dancer
to "dance." By means of the screw C,
the action of the current may be varied,
and the "dancing" will vary corre-
spondingly.

The figure is made of wood with
very loose joints and is suspended so
that the feet barely touch the plat-
form.— Contributed by Edward C.
Connelly, Wilkesbarre, Pa.

358

Child's Swing Built of Pipes in
Narrow Space

A narrow space between two city
houses was used to erect a swing, as
detailed in the illustration. A piece of

by 214 by lV4-in, tee, as shown in the
detail, was slipped over the 2-in. pipe,
which was built into the walls. A
lV4-in. pipe, B, 20 ft. long, bent as
shown, was joined to the tee, and a
seat, C, was attached. The con-
struction of the seat is shown in
detail, being fixed to the wooden
part with washers, nuts, and a threaded
nipple, D. A cushion and a removable
safety bar, E, were also features. This
swing is safer than one of rope, and
will stand much greater wear. — James
N. Reed, San Francisco, Calif.

DETAIL OF SEAT

DCTAIU OF SUPPORT

This Substantial Swing Guards the Youngsters from
Injury by Brushing against the Brick Walls

2-in. iron pipe. A, was cut 1 ft. longer
than the space between the walls.
Two pieces of Si/^-in. pipe and a 2V2

Door Bumpers Raise Height of Chair

Four wooden door bumpers, of the
rubber-tipped knob type, fastened to
the lower ends of the legs of one of the
kitchen chairs, make an almost in-
dispensable high chair, which will
bring the table work to a more com-
fortable height than the ordinary chair
does. The young child also will appre-
ciate such a chair at the dining table.
When it is no longer needed, the knobs
can be unscrewed quickly. — J- E. Mc-
Coy, Philadelphia, Pa.

A Homemade Hawaiian Ukulele

By S. H. SAMUELS

THE one-string banjo, the cigar-
box guitar, and similar vaudeville
favorites are giving way to the tanta-
lizing ukulele, and the home mechanic,
to be up to date in his musical crafts-
manship, must fall in line. The size
of this instrument makes it especially
suited to the cigar-box type of body
construction, as detailed in the several

This Cigar-Box Ukulele Cost the Maker 30 Cents,

and Affords Him the Pleasures of a

More Expensive One

sketches and shown in the photograph
reproduced. This neat ukulele was

made at a cost of 30 cents, by careful
selection of materials from the shop
scrap stock.

A cigar box of good-quality Spanish
cedar, about 2I2 by 6 by 9 in., as
shown in Fig. 1, is used for the body.
Remove the paper carefully, so as not
to mar the surface, soaking it if nec-
essary. Take it apart, and if the nail
holes are too numerous, or broken out,
trim off the edges. Fit the parts of the
body together, as shown in Fig. 2, the
top and bottom pieces resting against
the side and end pieces, and the latter
between the sides. Cut the 2V2-in. hole
in the top piece, as shown, 3% in. from
the neck end. To reinforce the body
make strips A, ^4 i^i- square, and fit
them to be glued into the corners at
the top and bottom. Make strips B,

359

% by % by 41/^ in., and glue them by %6 in. and cut grooves Vs in. deep

under the top and on the bottom as for them. The spacing of the frets is

indicated in Fig. 2. The final assem- determined as follows, a standard

bling and gluing of these parts, using practice : The distance from the metal

animal glue, should be done after the
bridge C is in place, and the other
parts are made. The bridge is of hard
wood hollowed underneath the notched
edge, as detailed, and is fitted with a
metal string contact.

Spanish cedar or mahogany is suit-
able for the neck, detailed in Fig. 3.
A single piece is best, but the exten-
sion for the pegs and the wider end
at the body may be joined and glued
to the main portion of the neck. Dow-
els should then be used to reinforce
the joints. The outline of the parts of
the neck are shown in detail in Fig. 3.
In the sectional view at the right, the
shape of the neck at the thinnest and
thickest parts is shown by the two
upper curved, dotted lines. The nut
D is made of mahogany, walnut, or
other hard wood, the grain extending
lengthwise, and the notches for the
strings spaced as shown.

The making and spacing of the frets
must be done very carefully. They are
of aluminum, brass and other metals
being suitable also. Make the frets Yig

To Keep in the Fashion in His Musical

Craftsmanship, the Home Mechanic

may Make a Cigar-Box Ukulele

as Detailed

string-contact on the bridge to the nut
should be measured carefully. The
first fret, near the head, is %s of this
distance from the nut, the total length
being in this instance, 13 in. The sec-
ond fret is set %s the distance from
the first fret to the bridge ; the third,
^s from the second fret to the
bridge, etc. The frets must fit tightly
in the grooves, requiring no special
fastening. The tuning pegs may be
bought or made.

In assembling the parts, fasten the
end of the body to the neck, with glue,
reinforced by screws. Set its upper
edge parallel with the fingerboard, and
so that the latter is flush with the top of
the body, when fitted to it. Assemble
the body, without the top, gluing it to
the end, fixed to the neck. When this
portion is thoroughly dried, fit the top
into place finally, and glue it. The
whole construction is then cleaned,
sandpapered, stained, and shellacked or
varnished. The stringing of the in-
strument is simple, and the strings may
be purchased in sets.

3G0

Homemade Suitcase Extension

A handy addition to the traveler's
equipment is a suitcase extension that
may be removed when not in use, and

This Suitcase
Extension can

be Made of
Strong Leather
or of Cloth Board
Suitably Covered

folded compactly, inside of the suit-
case if desired. This latter feature is
provided for by arranging the exten-
sion to be folded vertically at the mid-
dle. Heavy leather, cloth board cov-
ered with strong linen, or canvas of a
suitable color may be used. If cloth
board is used it should be cut the size
of the side of the suitcase, and smaller
sections hinged to it at the folds. The
leather need not be reinforced if it is
fairly strong. Cut the leather at A, B,
C, and D, and arrange it to be folded
on the dotted lines. Rivet guides for
the straps, as at E. Fit the corners
with buttons or snaps F, which are
locked in position when the extension
is in use. The device slides over the
suitcase and may be drawn tightly
against it when empty. — R. S. Matzen,
Fort Collins, Colo.

Putty Deadens Glossy Surfaces in
Photography

Atternpts to make "close-up" photo-
graphs of machinery, or highly pol-
ished objects, often fail because the
reflection of light upon the bright sur-
faces causes a blur in the photograph.

Some photographers use putty to
deaden the gloss. A lump of putty is
rubbed over the surface gently where
a brilliant reflection is visible, or the
entire surface is rubbed so that it pre-
sents an even, dead finish on the
ground glass of the camera, when
focusing. — Ralph W. Tillotson, Erie,
Pennsylvania.

Coop for Sitting Hens

W'hen several hens are to hatch out
settings at the same time, considerable
space can be saved and much con-
venience afiforded by making a coop as
shown in the illustration. It consists
of an outer frame of boards, 1 ft. wide
and 6 ft. long, or as long as desired for
the runway. The frame is divided into
compartments by boards extending
from end to end, each compartment
being for one hen. The frame is
placed on level ground and staked in
place. At opposite ends of each com-
partment is a hinged cover. The in-
tervening space is covered with wire
netting, with shelter boards placed
loosely over it. Under one of the
hinged covers the nest should be
placed on the ground, and at the oppo-
site end food and water are provided.
Each hen has plenty of space to exer-

Each Hen Has a Compartment, with Plenty of Space
for E,\ercising

cise in, and must at least get up for
food and water. The individual covers
permit separate examination of the
eggs, or feeding of the hens. — F. W.
Buerstatte, Pullman, Wash.

361

Smoking of Lamp Overcome by
Increasing Draft

While sitting in a room around a
lamp, a group of workmen discussed
the probable causes for the smoking
of an oil lamp. By way of experiment,
holes were punched 'm the perforated
part of the burner, increasing the draft
through the glass chimney. It was
then possible to turn the light up
much higher, without the usual de-
posit of smoke. As a result of this,
several other troublesome lamps were
soon remedied. — J. E. McCormack,
Haliburton, Ontario, Can.

place a needle in the groove so that a
very small portion of the playing end

Pencil Sharpener Made of Wafer Razor
Blade

This tool combines a knife and a file
on one handle, of wood, 7 in. long.
The knife is a
single - edged
safety - razor
blade, clamped
to the handle by
two round-head
screws. A space,
% in. deep, un-
der the blade is allowed for chips, and
a piece of a fine file is recessed into
the other end of the handle. To use
tliis sharpener, hold it as a pocketknife
is ordinarily held in whittling. The
blade will keep its edge for a consider-
able time. — Ralph W. Hills, Madison,
\\'isconsin.

OVER ON
DOTTED UNE

By Using This Needle- Sharpening Device the Life
of Records is Prolonged

extends past the face of E, and shear
oiif the end.— C. M. Hall, St. Louis,
Missouri.

Canoe or Boat Stored in Pulley Slings

A canoe, or small boat, which is
taken from the water when not in use,
suffers damage if it is left unprotected
in the open. A practical method of
storing it so that it can be taken out
quickly is to suspend it from the roof
structure of a small shed, or a garage,
by means of slings. The latter are
made of double thicknesses of strong
canvas, and are provided with rings
where they join to the lower pulleys
of the hoisting rope and tackle. The

Device for Sharpening Fiber
Phonograph Needles

A practical sharpener for fiber pho-
nograph needles may be made as fol-
lows : A lever handle. A, is cut from
heavy sheet metal. A safety-razor
blade. B, is bolted to it, and the metal
flap bent over as indicated. A block,
C, cut so that the upper face makes an
angle of 30° with the base, is faced
with a metal strip, E. A triangular
groove is cut or filed for the needle G.
The lever is hinged, as shown, by cushions, paddles, etc., may be left in
means of a screw. A base, D, may be the canoe. — Robert W. Jamison, Mitch-
added. To operate the sharpener, ell, S. D.

The Canoe is Stored in the Garage, and Conveniently
Hoisted into the Gable

362

Clod Rake Protects Corn in
Cultivating

Small corn is often injured by lumps
of dirt being thrown on it when culti-
vating. If these are
not removed the
corn may grow to
one side, or may lie
flat on the ground.
In order that I need
not get off the culti-
vator to remove
such lumps, I made
a rake out of an old
fork. The tines
were heated and
bent, as shown. An iron rod may be
used for the handle, but the wooden
one is light and easy to hold.

Curious Support for Call Bell

Two highly polished horns fitted
into a polished
wooden base and
banded with sil-
ver form the sup-
port for a call
bell shown in the
illustration. A
tapper, which
rests beside the

stand, was made of a deer hoof.— James

M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Ordinary Pen Converted into Fountain
Pen

An ordinary penholder and pen point
may be easily converted into a foun-
tain pen, with
the aid of a brass
paper clip of the
kind shown. The
cap is pried ofif
and the prongs
straightened.
One of the
prongs is cut to
suitable length,
. and the end bent

as indicated. It is then inserted in the
penholder, and adjusted to Vs in. from
the end of the pen point. The ink is

placed between the bent clip and pen
point, from where it feeds evenly as
needed. This kink is helpful when
using the heavier drawing inks, as well
as with writing inks.— R. L. Templin,
Champaign, 111.

Screwdriver Made from Buttonhook

Losing a sewing-machine screw-
driver, I easily made another by cut-
,-.. ting off the hook
end of a button-
hook with a
chisel. The cut
end was placed
upon a piece of
iron and, with a
hammer, formed
into a screw-
dnver in a few minutes. The rounded
top of the buttonhook makes it con-
venient to handle or hang up. — E. M
Bierwagen, South Bend, Ind.

Guarding a Camp Chest against Theft

Unless a camp chest is secured to
the ground so that it is difficult for
marauders
to carry it away,
it cannot be left
a t unguarded
camps without
some danger of
theft. By fit-
ting the chest A
over stakes, B,
set into the
ground with
crosspieces, D, a
secure fastening
IS provided. Cleats, C. with holes for
lag screws, are fitted into the bottom
of the chest, making it easy to remove
the fastening when desired. The
cleats are kept in the bottom of the
chest when not in use.— K. A. Thomp-
son, Lexington, Va.

CBy carefully piercing the small end
of an eggshell with a large needle, a
funnel for filling very small bottles is
provided.

363

A Toy Horse That Walks

This toy, amusing for the young-
sters, and their elders as well, will
repay one for the making of it. Use
a cigar box for the carriage, making
it about 10 in. high, and shape it in the
design shown. Nail a piece of wood,
Yg by 2 by 4 in. wide, on each side
of the carriage, and drill ^/s-in. holes
in them for the axle. For the horse,
take a piece of wood, lo by 4 by 6 in.
long, and draw an outline of the head,
neck, and body. Cut this out and drill
i^-in. holes where the legs are at-
tached.

Cut the legs as shown, about 31,4 in.
long. Attach them with small bolts,
or rivets, allowing space to move
freely. The wheels are made of pine,
1/2 in. thick and 3 in. in diameter. The
axle is made of %6-in- wire bent to the
shape indicated, i/o in. at each offset.
Fit the wheels on the axle tightly, so
as not to turn on it, the axle turning in
the pieces nailed to the sides of the
carriage. The horse is attached to the
top of the carriage by a strip of wood.
A 3-ft. wooden handle is attached to
the back of carriage to guide it. Wires

=v/^'

The Toy is Pushed by Means of the Handle,
Causing the Horse to Walk

are attached to the legs, connecting
with the offsets in the axle. — Charles
Claude Wagner, Los Angeles, Calif.

Safeguarding Contents of Unsealed
Envelopes

The gummed flaps on envelopes for
first-class mail are generally short, and
for sending photographs or second-
class matter these short flaps do not
stay tucked in. The solution is to
lengthen the flap, by pasting on a sheet
of paper, using the gum thereon. —
G. N. Neary, New York, N. Y.

Revolving Outdoor Lunch Table

Picnic parties on one of the Maine
lakes make much use of a large table,
having a revolving top, so that the

- ^CUPBOARD

The Persons Seated around the Table Help Them-
selves to the Food Conveniently by
Turning the Central Top

lunch may be placed on the center por-
tion and the persons seated around the
board may help themselves handily.
The stationary top is supported on
several cross braces of 2 by 4 in. stuff,
and the revolving top, pivoted at the
center, is carried on wooden roller
bearings, fixed near its circumference.
The lower portion of the table is in the
form of cupboards which are pad-
locked, providing storage space for
equipment left for the use of pic-
nickers. The table is set under a per-
gola, which provides shade. Benches,
curved to fit the table, may be used
conveniently with it. A small table of
this type is practical as a children's
play table, providing convenient stor-
age space for toys and other articles.
— E. E. Dickson, Holyoke, Mass.

CWhen, in papering a bathroom with
the same tiled paper on sides and ceil-
ing, the paper does not match in the
ceiling corners, place a strip of quarter-
round there, and color it to suit the
paper.

364

A Penny-in-the-Slot Newspaper Stand Timing Pointer on Watch Crystal

A silent, yet very successful "news-
boy" is shown in the photograph repro-
duced. Each rack
holds one of the
daily newspa-
pers. The passer-
by puts a penny
in the slot and
selects his paper.
The penny falls
down a chute,
striking a bell,
as evidence that
the customer has
paid. Hundreds
lit papers are
sold from this
rack each day
without the aid
of the newsboy's shouts. The slanting
shelves make it unnecessary to provide
weights for the papers. — ^I. F. Hall,
St. Louis, Mo.

Pedals for Typewriter Space and Shift
Keys Increase Speed

By attaching pedals to the space
key and shift key I increased my type-
writing speed
about 20 words a
minute. I made
two pedals fast
to the type-
writer desk, as
shown, then ran
stiff steel wires
up to the keys,
connecting the
latter to the wire
with rubber
bands. The
pedals are ad-
justed so that a
light tap oper-
ates them. If a
light typewriter
is used, it should
be fixed to the
desk. The wires can be unhooked
quickly from the typewriter, and sus-
pended on hooks under the edge of the
desk.— W. T. M., Manila, P. I.

Working in a photo-print finishing
plant where often several jobs need
attention and accurate timing, all at
the same time, I find a pointer on mv
watch crystal a great help. The crys-
tal was loose enough to permit turning
it. I glued a three-cornered piece of
black paper to the under side of the
crystal at the edge. When a batch of
prints is placed in a bath, the pointer
is set 15 minutes ahead of the minute
hand. When the latter reaches the
pointer, it reminds me to remove the
prints. After placing a batch of films
in the developing tank, I set the
pointer ahead of the minute hand the
required time for developing, placing
the watch in view, to see readily when
the time is up. — A. J. Viken, Waterloo,
Iowa.

Portable Tent Made from an Umbrella
and Paper Muslin

Picnickers desiring to go in bathing
are often handicapped by the lack of a
convenient place
to change
clothes. An um-
brella and some
paper muslin
provides a light
portable tent,
that is practical
and inexpensive
for such uses.
Cut the dark
paper muslin
into as many 9-
ft. lengths as
there are sec-
tions of the umbrella. Sew these strips
together. At each seam tie a string
about a yard long and a stout cord
15 ft. long to the handle to hold up
the tent. For use, open the umbrella,
invert it, and to each rib tie one of the
strings. Then tie one end of the cord
to the handle of the umbrella and
suspend it from a tree or other support,
as shown, weighting or tying down the
other end. — Mabel Hubbard Birch,
Cincinnati, Ohio.

365

Memorandum List for Camping and
Outing Trips

Persons who occasionally take an
outing or go camping will find a writ-
ten list of articles needed on
the trip a great saving of time
and mental energy. This list
should be made while making
preparations, and again read
shortly before the departure.
It may be kept from year to
year, and items added or with-
drawn, as experience teaches.
Classification is desirable, un-
der heads such as camping
gear, cooking utensils, table-
ware, foods, supplies, etc.
Each member of a party can
agree to furnish certain
articles, avoiding duplication.
Anyone who has gone on out-
ings and left behind some
much-needed article, will
readily realize the help such a list can
be, and by its use the amateur may
profit from the experience of others.

Pulley and Weight Exerciser
Homemade in the Orient

Finding it difficult to obtain ma-
terials for the making of a gymnastic

IBON 8BACKET

^ r-PECS FOR GUIDES,

When the
R

A Homemade Trouble Lamp

By attaching a handle for carrying,
and making suitable connections, a
u.ATH« WASHERS portabk trouble
light was made
of a dry battery.
A strip of iron
was bent to the
shape shown, for
the handle, and
fixed to the bind-
ing post on the
carbon. A bell
from an alarm clock was drilled and
tapped to fit a small light bulb, and
fastened at the zinc post. The upper
edge of the bell was bolted to the ex-
tension of the handle, as shown, leather
washers insulating it. A small switch,
riveted loosely to the iron strip, con-
trols the light. — Carl A. Haberlein,
McPherson, Kan.

Necessary Hardware Was Not at Hand, a Satisfactory
igging was Made for Exercising, by the Use
of Novel Substitute Materials

exerciser, I made one with makeshift
parts, typical of this locality. Later I
was able to get the necessary hard-
ware and made an exerciser, as shown
in Fig. 1, quite similar to those manu-
factured commercially. The original
arrangement is shown in Fig. 2. I
mounted a bamboo rod on two iron
brackets fastened to the wall. Small
pegs provided guides for the ropes, and
the smooth surface of the bamboo
caused little wear. Other bamboo rods
were used for the handle and to sup-
port the weights. These were made
by filling cans with sand, and tying
them with cords. This arrangement
was quite practical, but did not give
the desired freedom of movement. —
M. A. Laner, Hongkong, China.

C Books to be stacked or carried should
be arranged with the backs on alter-
nate sides.

Scoop on Painter's Knife Catches
Scrapings

By fitting a sheet-metal scoop to a
painter's putty knife or wall scraper,
much of the dirt and refuse resulting is
caught in the receptacle instead of fall-
ing to the floor and being tracked into
other rooms. The scoop is a rectangu-
lar can, and is fastened into place by
small bolts fitted through the scraper.

366

Gas-Hose Bracket for Ironing or
Shop Use

In a home where it was customary
to use an overhead sras fixture for the

Side VIE.W

The Bracket Gives Greater Freedom in the Use of
the Gas Iron

attachment of the gas iron for ironinof
clothes, it was found that mantles were
frequently broken by the resulting jar.
By making a bracket for the gas hose,
which is fastened to the end of the
ironing board or to the edge of the
table, this trouble was remedied. The
new arrangement gave much greater
freedom in the use of the iron. The
bracket can be removed quickly and
fitted to a bench for use in the shop. —
M. J. F. Schramm, Ridgewood, N. Y.

Homemade Guide for Photo and Paper
Trimmer

Having an old but still serviceable
photograph trimmer, with which it

"SPRING HINGES

The Spring Hinge Presses the Guide Down on the
Print being Cut

was difficult to trim prints uniformly
and quickly, I made a guide for this
purpose and fitted it to the board, as

shown. The guide is a strip of wood,
14 in. thick, and is fastened to the
cleat with a spring hinge, mounted on
a block. Although it is not trans-
parent, like the best commercial
devices of this kind, it gives good
service. — R. B. Manck, Nazareth, Pa.

Joining Broken Liquid Column in
Thermometer

To reunite the particles of mercury
or other liquid, which have become
separated in a thermometer, raise it to
the level of the extended arm, the bulb
outward, and jolt the tube with a quick
downward stroke. Repeat this, not
too vigorously, until the liquid returns
to its proper position.

Umbrella Used as a Clothes Drier

A clothes drier that can be carried
in a purse or a vest pocket will appeal
to travelers, and
persons living in
small quarters.
A n umbrella,
four yards of
strong wrapping
twine, and sev-
eral small brass
rings are re-
quired. Knot
the rings into
the twine at in-
tervals, measur-
ing the distance
between the rib points of the umbrella,
and hook the twine to the points by the
rings, as shown, providing consider-
able drying space for small articles.
Hook the umbrella handle over a suit-
able support, or tie it carefully to the
supporting pipe of a light fixture in the
middle of the room, ready for the ar-
ticles to be dried. The twine may also
be wrapped around the points, but it is
better to carry a line with rings at-
tached.

CBy reversing the handle on a dust
brush which has been worn near the
point, additional wear may be ob-
tained.

367

Metal Band Stiffens Brush

III painting, and other work where
a brush is used, it is often desirable to
stiffen the bristles. This may be done
readily by fixing a band of sheet metal
over the brush, to slide tightly. By
adjusting it, the length and stiffness
of the part of the bristles used may be
controlled.

RUBBEP BANO^;

Rubber Band Prevents Tangling of
Telephone Cord

It is exasperating to pick up the tele-
phone receiver to answer a call and
find the cord twisted
or wound around
the telephone stand-
ard. A long re-
ceiver cord will not
tangle if a rubber
band is used to sup-
port it. as shown in
the sketch. The
elastic permits con-
siderable play, and
if the fullest exten-
sion of the cord is
desired, it may be supported on several
linked rubber bands, on the left of the
standard. — K. M. Coggeshall, Webster
Groves, ^Mo.

Improvised Trousers Hanger in Train
Berth

The berth of a sleeping car is usually
provided with a coat hanger, but if
there is a rod on
it for trousers,
there is nothing
to keep them
from slipping
off. By remov-
ing two of the
curtain hooks,
hanging the
trousers over
the curtain pole,
and replacing the
hooks over the
trousers, a satisfactory hanger is ob-
tained, which will not permit them to
slip down no matter how rough the
road.

Headrest for Porch Swing

Here is a "peach" of a homemade
porch swing — a shock-absorbing spe-
cies. The top board is attached with

1 'SPRING
S HINGE

L^4-J

W^^fl

ih "~^^^

The Hinged Board Provides a Comfortable Headrest,
and Is a Safety Feature

springy hinges, and aft'ords an ideal
headrest. It also tends to prevent chil-
dren from climbing over the back. —
H. W. Hart, St. Paul, Minn.

Fruit-Picking Pole with Gravity
Delivery Chute

For picking fruit without bruising
it, in the home garden, or for exhibi-
t i o n purposes,
the fruit-picking
pole shown in
the sketch is
useful. A wi r e
ring is fixed to
the top of the
pole, and the
bag. suspended
from it, is fas-
tened to the pole
at intervals. The
fruit is removed
by means of the
ring and drops
to the bottom of
the chute, which
is held closed by

the hand. For picking large quantities
of fruit a receptacle is carried bj' the
picker. — Mrs. Ella L. Lamb, Mason,
Michigan.

':-

fW^^

368

A Set of Electric Chimes

A set of electric dinner chimes is a
welcome and useful addition to many
households, and may be made at a

When the Buttons are Pressed, Tones are Given
Forth by the Electrically Operated Gongs

trifling cost by the average person
handy with tools. The completed
article is shown in Fig. 1, the details
in Fig. 2, and the wiring diagram in
Fig. 3. The woodwork is of Vi-in.
stock. The back A, Fig. 2, is 1% in.,
by 9'% in. long. The ends may be
shaped to suit the builder's fancy.
The shelf B is 4 in. square, and is
fastened to the back piece 2i/4 in. from
the upper end. It supports the mag-
nets C, which are made on cores, % in.
in diameter and % in. long, with ends
YiQ in. by 1 in. in diameter. The spools
are wound full of No. 28 silk-covered
copper magnet wire. These coils are
mounted on the shelf by means of
brass straps D. Four magnets are
used, the forward one being omitted
in Fig. 2.

The supports E, for the tubes, con-
sist of Va-in. lengths of %-in. square
brass rod. One end of the rod is
drilled and tapped for an 8-32 screw
which holds the support in place.

Drill a small hole, 14 in. from the end,
for the pin G, made of steel wire. The
tapper H is made from a iy^-in. length
of stiff iron wire; V/^ in. from one end
a %-in. cube of iron, J, is soldered, the
wire passing through it. The ends of
the wire are fitted with balls as shown.
A nickeled gong, K, covers the four
magnets. The end of the tapper is
passed through the hole in the gong,
and the ball riveted into place.

Four %-in. diameter tubes are used,
respectively 3, 4, 5, and 6 in. long.
When the apparatus is assembled as
shown, and one of the magnets is
energized, the latter will draw the iron
cube J toward it, and the tapper will
strike one of the tubes.

To control the current supplying
the magnets, four small push buttons
mounted on a wooden base are used.
They are wired up with the battery
and coils, as shown in Fig. 3. A wire
from each of the coils runs directly to
one terminal of the battery, the other
wire from each coil being connected
to a separate push button. The other
sides of the push buttons are con-
nected to the battery. By this means
any of the magnets may be energized
at will, the coils and corresponding
push buttons being marked L and M,
etc., alphabetically.

Tabs for Turning Sheet Music Quickly

Musicians sometimes have trouble in
turning over sheet music quickly.
Here is a simple
way to turn the
leaves quickly
and easily: Paste
a tab on the
edge of each
sheet, as shown.
The first sheet
is tagged at the
top, the second
in the middle,
and the last
sheet at the bot-
tom, like a letter file. Where there are
many sheets, it is easy to gjasp the
upper tab, on each successive sheet. —
M. W. Meier, Chicago, 111.

369

A Springy Hammock Support Made
of Boughs

In many camping places, balsam
branches, or moss, are available for

each other, as shown, 1 ft. from the
ground. Set up the second pair simi-
larly. Fix the crossbars into place, in
the crotches, the ends of the crotch
branches being fastened under the op-

The Camp Bed can be "Knocked Down," or Trans-
ported Considerable Distances as It Stands

improvising mattresses. Used in con-
nection with a hammock, or a bed
made on the spot, such a mattress sub-
stitute provides a comfort that adds
to the joys of camping. A camp ham-
mock, or bed of this kind, is shown.

To make it, cut four 6-ft. poles, of
nearly the same weight and 1 in. in
diameter at the small end. These sap-
lings should have a fork about 2V2 ft.
from the lower ends, as resting places
for the crossbars, as shown. Then
cut two poles, 2 in. in diameter and 3I/2
ft. long, and two smaller poles, 3 ft.
long. Also cut two forked poles, 4I/2
ft. long, for the diagonal braces.
Place two of the long poles crossing

POLE MATTRESS SUPPORT-,

The Poles are Selected Carefully and Set Up with

Stout Cross Braces at the Middle," and Lighter

Ones for the Mattress Support

posite crossbar. The end bars are
fixed to the crossed poles by means of
short rope loops. The mattress is
placed on springy poles, 7 ft. long and
2 in. apart, alternating thick and thin
ends. The moss is laid over the poles,
and the balsam branches spread on
thickly. Blankets may be used as a
cover. — J. S. Zerbe, Coytesville, N. J.

A Revolving Card, or Ticket, Holder

A holder which may be ornamented
and trimmed with leather or other ma-
terials, was
made of several
disks of wood,
joined at the
center by a
thumbscrew, and
provided a neat
place for calling
cards, post cards,
etc. The block A, which fits against
the wall, is % in. thick and 2 in. in
diameter. The disk C is V^ by 7 in.,
the disk D, 6 in., and the metal disk E,
o in. in diameter. The edge of the
metal disk, which may be of orna-
mented or etched brass, or copper, is
curled forward as?shown. The thumb-

screw B holds the disks together and
fastens them to the wall. — James E.
Noble, Portsmouth, Ontario, Can.

Testing Direct Current Polarity with
Litmus Paper

Litmus paper laid on glass, and
moistened with a weak solution of
sodium sulphate can be used to test
the polarity of a direct current. If the
two conductors are touched on the
moistened paper, the latter will turn
red at the positive, and blue at the
negative conductor.

CA berry stemmer made of a small
pair of tweezers is useful for removing
superfluous buds from garden flower-
ing plants.

370

An Automatic Fishhook

The hook A is made of tempered
brass or steel wire of a gauge sufficient
for the size of the fish to be caught.
A wire of No. 18
gauge is about
right for ordi-
nary fishing,
with a No. 20 or
22 gauge for the
trigger. Hooks,
C C, can be sol-
dered on the
points to angle
for larger fish.
Barbs are not
required for
smaller fish.
Such a hook
will catch the fish, even if they only
nibble, and is especially good for fish-
ing through the ice. Use a bob and
a pole, and bait the short hook with
a minnow or worm. The extreme
length of a hook for catching a 1-Ib.
fish should be 3 in. Fasten the line
as shown at B. — Contributed by
Robert C. Knox, Waycross, Ga.

Temporary Binder for Magazines

The sketch illustrates an inexpensive
temporary binder for periodicals, mag-
azines, newspapers, etc. It consists of
four parts, namely, two sheets of card-
board, A, the size of the magazine to
be bound, and two pieces of linen or
tape, B. A slot is cut in each corner
of the cardboards about 1 in. from the

The Binding is Only Temporary to Keep the Maga-
zines in Good Condition for a Complete Volume

edge. The tape is run through these
slots in the manner shown.

The magazine numbers, as they are

received, are placed on the back card-
board, building them up consecutively
as they come. The ends of the tape are
tied to hold them together. The back-
bone is open and the contents are read-
ily seen.

The sliding of the tape in the slots
provides a means of holding from one
to as many copies as may be desired,
and they are kept in good condition
until a complete volume is compiled,
when a more permanent binder can be
made.

Instead of tape a leather strap can
be used with a buckle. The tapes can
be fastened to one of the cardboards,
allowing one end only to be movable.

Combination Workshop Seat

A most practical and satisfactory
way of using a stool in a small work-
shop is shown in the illustration. In
much of my small
work at the bench I
find it an advantage
to sit, and for that
]iurpose I purchased
a small stool. My
laihe is operated by a
geared foot motor,
provided with two
foot levers which may
be operated singly in
a standing posi-
L-==-~ tion or both at a
time when sit-
ting. The attachment shown converts
the stool, the seat of which is too low
except for bench work, into a comfort-
able and neat seat for working at a
lathe. The sketch is self-explanatory.
A plate with a setscrew is mounted
under the center of the stool seat,
through which a hole is bored for the
seat post. Two pieces of iron pipe, an
elbow and an old bicycle saddle con-
stitute the remaining parts of the de-
vice. Provision is made for adjust-
ment as to height, and the position of
the saddle may be changed in the or-
dinary way by using a wrench on the
part which grips the horizontal length
of pipe, just the same as the seat on a
bicycle-seat post is adjusted.

3ri

Substitute for Rivets in Couches

The rivets in a couch come loose
and work out quite often, leaving it
loose and wobbly. To make rivets fit
properly by hammering them into
place is almost impossible and to re-
pair the couch with stove bolts makes
an unsightly job. A very good re-
pair and one that will make a couch
rigid and strong again is by the use
of ordinary brass binding posts from
old dry-battery cells instead of rivets.
These can be easily placed without
tools. — Contributed by G. H. Clem-
mons, Storm Lake, Iowa.

A Nonbinding Tool-Chest Slide Tray

The slide trays of a tool chest, es-
pecially if they are wider than they
are deep, are apt to bind. To remedy
this trouble, I procured four ordinary
thread spools and inserted them in

The Spool in Each Corner of the Tray Rolls against
the Side of the Tool Chest

openings cut for them in the corners
of the tray. Holes were bored through
the corners for pins to hold the
spools in place. — Contributed by J. V.
Loeffier, Evansville, Indiana.

A Brooder

A very effective brooder can be
made of an old feather duster hung
in a box so that the tips of the feathers
will come close to the bottom. The
brooder consists of a wood box about
1 ft. high. The cover is removed and
a hole cut in the center to receive the
shank of the duster after cutting its
handle off. This makes an excellent
substitute for the feathers of the hen.
Some finely cut hay, or sand, is placed

beneath so as to bring the level up
sufficiently for the chicks to run among
the feathers. For ventilation, bore
some holes in the sides of the box near

The Feathers of the Duster in the Center of the Box
Take the Place of Those of a Hen

the top and cut a small opening for
an entrance. For convenience in
cleaning, the cover should be hinged.
— Contributed by \Vm. T. Miller, Ros-
lindale, Mass.

How to Make a Fancy Buttonhook

Procure a piece of %,-in. round steel,
about 5 in. long, and file one end of it
square for about one-third of the
length, so that the diagonal of the
square part is less than the diameter
of the rod. Cut about 8 washers each,
of brass and iron, from material, %-in.
thick. Make the hole in the washers
square to fit the square on the rod.
The washers can be cut out roughly
on the outside, but they must be larger
than the diameter of the rod. Place
the brass and iron washers alternately
on the rod, beginning with a brass and
finishing with an iron washer, which
latter is held in place by riveting the
end of the rod on it.

The washers are then filed round,
and the remaining end of the rod is

.BMjtHiija-aHp

The Different Colors of the Metals When Polished
and Buffed Give the Hook a Neat Appearance

tapered. The pointed end is bent into
a hook. The whole length is then pol-
ished and bufifed. — Contributed by H.
W. Hankin, Trail, Can.

372

Hinge Lock for Horizontal Sliding
Windows

A simple catch for fixing windows
of the horizontal sliding type so that
it is difficult to
pry them open is
s h o vv n in the
sketch. It is
made of an old
hinge, one end of
which is sharp-
ened so as to en-
gage the surface
of the frame on which the sash slides.
When not in use the hinge is folded up.
It can be used to set the window at
various points when it is desired to
have it partly open. — T. H. Linthicum,
Annapolis, Md.

T Mf

BF?ASS

Repairing a Brass Candlestick

A brass candlestick brought to me
for repairs had lost a crownlike bit of
ornamentation once
fitting on the top of
the grease cup. To
make a finish at this
point I soldered
therein a heavy brass
nose ring. The sol-
dering being con-
cealed on the under portion, the effect
was very good, and strength was added
to the thin brass cup, pre^'enting pos-
sible denting of the edge. — James M.
Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Hand Guards for Motorcyclists

When riding my motorcycle in cool
weather, my hands became very cold,
and in order to overcome this. I had
guards, like that
shown in the
sketch, made of
oilcloth. A piece,
tapered from 10
in. at one end to
41/0 in. at t li e
other, and 12 in.
long, was formed
into a cone, the smaller end being
fitted, with an elastic band, over the

handlebar. The guards keep the hands
comfortable without gloves in cool
weather, and, with gloves, are of great
service in the winter. — George Westa-
way, Davenport, la.

Bicycle-Handle Grip on Rake Handle

B3' fitting a bicycle handle to the end
of a rake handle a grip is provided that
is comfortable in
the hand when
considerable rak-
ing is to be done.
The sketch
shows the grip
attached. Sev-
eral small brads
were nailed
through the han-
dle and countersunk so as not to injure
the hand. This prevented the grip
from becoming loosened easily.

BEND ON _
DOTTED UNES

Removal Marker for Card Index

A marker which is adapted for use in
files of various sizes is shown in the
illustration. 1 1
may be made
easily of medi-
um-weight card-
board, cut to the
shape shown in
the diagram be-
low and bent as
indicated. The
marker is insert-
ed at a point in
the index from
which a card or other filed material
has been removed. It is of such a
size that, when in use, the tab pro-
jects only enough to be recognized,
and the marker may be left in the
drawer so as to be convenient for
future use. The sketch shows the
marker partly withdrawn. The small
projections shown in the diagram are
important in that they act as springs
when the marker is in use. — John B.
^^'ade, Wellington, Kan.

CGaskets cut from old inner tubes are
satisfactory for water connections.

373

Driving Nails to Prevent Splitting

A nail driven so that it crosses the
grain, as shown in the sketch, is not
likely to split the board through which
it passes. The
splitting often
results when
the nail is
driven straight.
The nail should
be started at
different angles according to the grain
of the wood. — Contributed by Chas. G.
England, Washington, Pa.

Feeding Geese in a Poultry Yard

Having four geese in a yard with
chickens, I found that the chickens
would not allow the geese to pick up
the food. To feed the geese I placed
the corn in the bottom of a pan and
filled it with water. The geese will
easily pick up the corn from under the
water, where the chickens would not
attempt to touch it. — Contributed by
Walter L. Kaufmann, Santa Ana, Cal.

Homemade Calipers

A good pair of calipers can be easily
and quickly made by anyone in the fol-
lowing manner : Procure a piece of
spring wire, about 15 in. long, and bend
it as shown in the sketch, allowing the
ends to point inward or outward as the
style demands. A loop of heavy wire
is fastened around the center so that it

The Spring Wire is Bent So That the Points Turn
In or Out as Desired

can be slid back and forth along the
wire. This serves the purpose of an
adjuster. — Contributed by Stanley
Radclifife, Laurel, Md.

Starting Garden Plants

In starting small plants to get .them
hardy and ready to plant in the early
spring provide separate receptacles of
paper, then the plant can be set out

The Paper Cup

Starts One Plant

and When Reset

No Damage

Results from

the Change

without trouble and it will grow as if
it had never been moved. Procure
some heavy paper and make the cups
as shown in the sketch.

The paper is cut into squares, the
size depending on the plant, and each
square is folded on the dotted line
AB. This forms a triangle of a double
thickness. The next fold is made on
the line CD, bringing the point E
over to F. Then the paper is folded
over on the line EG, bringing the
point H over to C. This will leave a
double-pointed end at J. The parts
of this point art separated and folded
down on the sides which form the cup
as shown.

These cups are filled with earth and
set into earth placed in a box. The
seeds are planted within the cups.
\Mien it comes time for transplanting,
the cup with the plant is lifted out and
set in the garden without damage to
the plant roots. The paper soon rots
away and gives no trouble to the grow-
ing plant.

Gas Stove for the Dining Table

The stove is made of one piece of
No. 6 gauge brass wire and a 6-in.
length of y^-in. gas pipe, A. Drill six
^V-in. holes in the side of the pipe,
spacing them evenly. Turn a cap on
one end of the pipe and fit a hose cock

on the other. Start with the ends of
the wire and make one turn around
the pipe, then make loops at both sides,

^^S

The Stove Takes the Place of an Electric Stove
Where There is Only a Gas Supply

to serve as feet, and shoulders, on
which to set the bread in making
toast. From this point, where the
wires come together, twist them for a
length of 6 in. They are then spread
and formed into a circle about 4 in.
in diameter. The other side, or up-
right, is made in the same manner as
making the first part.

A piece of sheet metal, B, is cut to
fit the space between the wires, al-
lowing projections at the upper and
lower outside edges for'bending around
the upright twisted wires. The entire
stove can be nickelplated if desired.
It can be used in the same manner as
an electric stove and for the same pur-
poses where a home is supplied only
with gas. — Contributed by E. L. Dou-
thett, Kansas City, Mo.

Castings without Patterns

The sketch shows a method of mak-
ing small castings that I have used
for several years and the castings so
produced are strong and very durable,
almost equal to the ordinary casting.
The idea may be of considerable value
to inventors and home mechanics.

The mold is of plaster of Paris, held
in a v/ood frame or box, and all that is

required in the way of a pattern is a
plain block or anything that will pro-
duce an impression of the general out-
line of the casting, as shown in the
sketch. After the impression is made,
the mold should be dusted thoroughly
with black lead. The journal bearings
are then located, holes drilled in the
hardened plaster and wood pins set,
as shown. These pins must be of hard
wood and of a diameter to suit the fin-
ished size of the bore. Brass tubing
of a suitable size is cut ofif to the
length required and placed on the
wood pins. These pieces of tubing
will be the brass bushings in the fin-
ished castings. Babbitt metal is
melted and poured into the mold. Be-
fore pouring the metal it is well to be
sure that the plaster is thoroughly dry.

The mold is as shown, and the upper
side of the metal is at all times ex-
posed to the air. This makes it neces-
sary to have all core prints on the
under side, as this side will be the
one in view when the casting is fin-
ished, and the upper side, as the cast-
ing lies in the mold, will be the inside
or unexposed side. In case of curved
work, reinforcing strips of sheet brass
should be placed in the mold and im-
bedded in the casting, as shown in the
sketch by the dotted lines.

A little practice will enable anyone
to produce very neat cored castings.

HIMI^:4

A Mold Made in Plaster without a Special Pattern
and Run with a Soft Metal

and when the brass bushings are fitted
to size and faced ofif, and the casting
painted, a piece will be produced that

375

will compare in finish and general use-
fulness with anything of the nature
that could be bought. Do not treat
the brass tubes with soldering flux un-
less necessary, for they should be re-
movable so that they can be replaced
when worn. — Contributed by J. B.
Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.

A Developing-Paper Printer

Having a rush order for' a large
quantity of post cards, I was compelled
to adopt some way of making the
prints quickly. As I was in a place
where a printer could not be secured
for several weeks, I set about making
one, with good results, as shown in
the illustrations.

I first secured an ordinary soap box
and took it apart, being careful to keep

Fia.3

Fig. 2

Fig. 4

Parts for Making the Switch So That It will Operate
Automatically as the Cover is Moved

the boards whole, then rebuilt it to
make a box with ends measuring 13
in. square, and 14 in. in length. In one
end I cut a large hole to admit a 60-
watt tungsten globe, then, taking an-
other board, I fitted a knob and hinges
to it and used it for a door. The other
end of the box was centered and a hole
bored large enough to admit an ordi-
nary socket. Another hole was bored,
4 in. to the right, for another socket.
A much heavier material was used for
the lid than for the box, being at least
Ys in. thick. A piece of double-
strength, clear glass, 8 by 10 in. in size,
was procured and set in a hole cut in
the cover so that its upper surface
would be flush.

An ordinary single-pole switch was
secured, as shown in Fig. 1, also a
small mousetrap, as shown in Fig. 2.
The front part of the trap was sawed

off so that only the spring was utilized.
The base of the trap was then cut out
to fit snugly on the base of the switch,

The Printer may be Set in the Table Top or Used
Separately, as Desired

into which two corresponding holes
were bored for the screws. The next
thing was to secure several clips,
which were cut from sheet brass, to
operate the switch, and a lever to con-
trol the .switch, as shown in Fig. 3.
The lever is 1 in. wide and 4 in. long,
having a slot at the bottom, to slip
easily over the lever handle in the
switch, and a hole, drilled 1 in. above
the slot, to admit a nail to keep the
spring from throwing it out of position.
The clips for holding the films, or
(. plates, are shown in Fig. 4.

Side View of the Printer,
Showing Parts Assem-
bled and the Main
Line Connections
to the Globes

^>/j/>j//>^/>///?>//>,/>'/>/M^jj^/w7:m

>//W//^/M

After securing a double socket, of
which there are many types, a few
yards of lamp cord, a piece of felt, 6
by 8 in. in size, and two ordinary lamp

376

sockets, I was ready to assemble the
printer. The switch was then placed
on a board of the same width, the
spring of the trap placed on top of it
and then fastened with screws. This
board was then cut ofif the length of
the inside of the box and fastened in
place, with the switch and trap spring
on top.

The ruby light A burns all the time,
acting as a pilot in placing the nega-
tive. When the cover B is lowered,
after placing the paper, the felt pad on
the under side holding it secure, the
projecting arm C comes in contact

with the switch lever D and makes the
connection to the tungsten light E.
After the proper time for the exposure
has been given the cover is raised and
by this action the tungsten light is
automatically shut ofif, leaving only the
red light burning. With a 60-watt
lamp I secure a print in about 3 sec-
onds, which is fast enough. Of course,
by using a larger lamp, the time could
be reduced to a second or more, accord-
ing to the size. The time given was
obtained by experience in using ordi-
nary brands of papers. — Contributed
by Harry Marcelle, Honolulu, H. I.

Transposing Temperature Readings

It is often necessary for the ama-
teur scientist to transpose a temper-
ature reading from the Fahrenheit to

BOIl

.ING
20

212"

° /

FREE

ZING

/po
o

32'^

-2

O 2

O 4

O 6

O 8

O lO

O 12

-4

The Readings can be Transposed from Fahrenheit to

Centigrade or Vice Versa Instantly

by the Use of This Scale

the centigrade scale, or vice versa.
This is easily accomplished by means
of the diagram without the use of a

formula. The centigrade readings are
given on the horizontal axis and the
Fahrenheit readings on the vertical
axis. The temperature readings are
the same at minus 40 deg. and from
that point on the Fahrenheit readings
equal nine-fifths of the centigrade plus
32. This reading is instantly seen by
the scale. — Contributed by James F.
Boyd, Ann Arbor, Mich.

Protecting Plans in a Shop

The magazines I used in the shop,
for making a few things from plans,
became so soiled that they were unfit
for the library. I now keep them
clean by using a covering made of an
old picture frame from which the back
was removed and a plain glass in-
serted in its place. This is placed over
the magazine or other plans on the
bench and keeps them clean, dustless,
open and flat. — Contributed by H. J.
Blacklidge, San Rafael, Cal.

Homemade Eyebolts

Many times one has use for an
eyebolt when there is none at
hand. Eyebolts of almost any size
can be quickly

made of a spring /;::x_

cotter. Simply (^ WfcudMMi

thread the end,

as shown, and use a nut and washer.
— Contributed by Chas. G. England,
Washington, Pa.

377

To Keep Tan Shoes from Turning
Dark

Tan-shoe polishes seem to rub the
dirt into the leather and to darken it in
a short time. Tan shoes can be kept
clean and well polished without losing
their original bright tan color if treated
in the following simple manner. In-
stead of using tan polish on a new
pair of shoes, dampen the end of a soft
clean cloth, and rub a small portion of
the leather at a time with the moist
end and then rub briskly with the dry
end. In this way tan shoes can be kept
clean and nicely polished like new. —
Contributed by John V. Voorhis,
Ocean Grove, N. J.

move the finger is a diflferent matter.
The end coils tend to pull out and hold

A Finger-Trap Trick

It is easy to fool one's friends with
the little joker made to trap a finger.
It consists of a piece of paper, about
6 in. wide and 12 in. or more long. To
prepare the paper, cut two slots in
one end, as shown, and then roll it up
in tube form, beginning at the end
with the cuts, then fasten the end with
glue. The inside diameter should be
about i/> inch.

When the glue is dry, ask some one
to push a finger into either end. This
will be easy enough to do, but to re-

It is Easy to Insert a Finger in the Tube, but to
Get It Out is Almost Impossible

the finger. If the tube is made of
tough paper, it will stand considerable
pull. — Contributed by Abner B. Shaw,

N. Dartmouth, Mass.

CWhen mercury is spilled it can be
picked up with a medicine dropper.

Homemade Roller Skates

The long wheel base of the roller
skate illustrated makes it quite safe
and will prevent falls. The construc-
tion of these skates is simple, the frame
being made of a board, 2 ft. long, 3 in.
wide and 1 in. thick. Holes are mor-
tised through the ends to admit the
wheels. A small block, cut out on one
side to fit the heel of the shoe, is se-
curely fastened centrally, for width,
and just in front of the rear wheel on
the board. Two leather straps are fas-
tened to one side of each board, to fas-
ten the skate onto the shoe. The wheels
can be turned from hard wood, or
small metal wheels may be purchased,
as desired. The axle for the wheels
consists of a bolt run through a hole

Wheels Fitted into the
Ends of a Long Board,
to Make a Roller Skate

bored in the edge of the board centrally
with the mortise. — Contributed by
Walter Veene, San Diego, Cal.

CThe screw collar of a vise should be
oiled at least once a month.

378

How to Make a High Stool

The cast-off handles of four old
brooms, three pieces of board, cut as
shown, and a few screws will make

a substantial high
stool. The legs
should be placed in
the holes, as shown at
A, and secured with
screws turned
through the edge of
the board into the legs
in the holes. The seat
B should be fastened
over this and the legs
braced by the square
piece C. Screws are
turned through the legs and into the
square piece to keep it in position.

Keeping Magazines in a Book Form

Desiring to preserve magazine copies
■vithout binding them, I made up a
series of boxes that gave the appear-

Several Boxes will Appear the Same as a Set of
Books and will Preserve the Magazines .

ance of books, and placed the numbers
in order in them as they were received.
The sides of the boxes consist of two
thin boards, a little larger than the
size of the magazine to be placed in
them. The ends are made of the same
material, wide enough to equal the
thickness of the copies to be placed in

each box, four or six numbers, or a
volume. One end of these pieces is
made slightly rounding, and the pieces
are then put together as shown.

The rounded ends of the end pieces
and the opening between the sides are
covered with a piece of cardboard or
bristol board, to shape the back of the
box like a book. The finished box is
entirely covered, like a book, with cloth
or imitation leather. The backs can
be lettered and decorated to appear
like a book. — Contributed by R. M.
Guarino, New York Citv.

A Cardboard Creaser

A simple apparatus for creasing thin
cardboard or heavy paper in a perfectly
straight line without broken edges is
described in the French magazine La
Nature as follows : On a base of con-
venient dimensions are fastened two
pieces of wood, well smoothed and of
equal thickness, so that there remains
a slot, about Ys in. wide, between

The Wire on the Creaser Presses the Paper into
the Space between the Two Wood Pieces

them. At one end a hole is bored
through these pieces for a shaft on
which the creaser will turn. The
creaser is rhade of a piece of wood
somewhat longer than the baseboard
so that a handle can be formed at one
end. At the other end it is slotted for
a piece of metal, perforated for the
shaft and fastened with two pins or
ri\ets. as shown. On the under side
of the creaser a stiff' steel wire is fas-
tened so that it coincides with the slot.
The wire is fastened by heating the
ends red hot, bending them at right
angles to the main part and driving
them into the creaser.

CA razorlike edge can be put on a knife
blade by carefully stropping it without
lubricant on a piece of smooth alumi-
num after first whetting on an oilstone.

A Miniature Illuminating - Gas Plant

By MORTON SOUTHARD

.<:^'M\l^i-^j\ /"E R Y few persons
realize that
the smoke i s -
suing from chim-
^-^ n e y s is mainly
f coal gas carrying
minute particles of
unconsumed c a r -
bon that gives it a
dark-gray color, con-
taining, besides, some
phur and sulphuric gases,
honic-acid gas, and other
rities. It is only necessary
lect this gas and remove
impurities to get a gas that
will burn with a bright flame.

The products obtained from a gas
plant are gas, ammoniacal liquor, coal
tar, and coke. Of 1 ton of coal, 1,500
lb. remains in the retort, or furnace, as
coke ; 20 gal. of ammoniacal liquor and
140 lb. of coal tar are taken from the
cylinders and washers. When distilled,
the ammoniacal liquor will yield close
to 18 gal. of ammonia, which is used in

ASBESTOS TOP

BOILING
WATER

the manufacture of artificial ice ard
cold storage. The coal tar will yield
approximately 19 lb. of benzol, which
is the base of all true aniline dyes; 6
lb. of naphthalene, commonly known
as camphor flakes or moth balls, which
also 3'ields some dyes; 4 lb. of toluene,
which is valuable as a solvent and is
the base of saccharine,' and about 2 lb.
each of phenol (carbolic acid), pyrene,
anthracene, xylenol, cresol, chrysene,
and alizarin. The residuum is coal-tar
pitch, used extensively as a binder for
iiriquetting coal dust for household
consunijjtion, and also for roofing and
street paving. From these various
coal-tar products, dyes of every tint,
shade and color are obtained, as well as
other industrial chemicals, from flavor-
ing extracts to perfumes, from volatile
oils to high explosives, and from the
sweetest of all sweets to the bitterest of
bitter.

A model gas plant — one that will be
instructive and in no way dangerous if
proper precautions are taken — can be

STORAGE
TANK

The Furnace Made of Fire Brick is Connected to the Condenser and Washers with Ordinsry Iron Pipe
through Which the Gases Pass After being Purified Before They Enter the Storage Tank

37i?

380

built from a few fire brick, some pieces
of pipe, and a few tin cans. Enough
fire brick must be secured to build a
furnace 14 in. square by 20 in. high, in-
side measurements. Build up the four
walls on a level surface of the ground,
laying the bricks with a cement mortar
to seal them perfectly, as coal gas will
find any small crevice and escape. For
this reason it is best to build a second
wall outside of the first and plaster the
joint between them as it is built. When
the four walls are finished, make a
grate of fire brick in the bottom by set-
ting the brick on edge and spacing
them about i/4 i"- After the walls are
dry, make ready the material for the
fire. Place sufficient kindling on the
grate to start a quick fire, then cover it
with coal. When this is done, cover
the furnace with a heavy piece of as-
bestos board large enough to reach the
outside edge of the furnace walls. The
board must be cemented to the top sur-
face of the brick walls. Place the ce-
ment mixture on the wall top, then
press the board on it, and place a
weight on top until the cement becomes
dry. The cement mixture should con-
sist of one part cement to two parts
of fine sand.

Procure a large can, such as used in
canning tomatoes, having a diameter
of more than 4 in. and with top and
bottom whole; also two other cans,
each having a capacity of 2 gal. with
closed heads. Connect the first can to
the furnace with a piece of 2-in. pipe, as
shown in the illustration. The pipe
can be bent for convenience, but in case
such a piece is not at hand, regular pipe
connections can be made with threaded
ends, ells, waste nuts, etc. In either
case, be sure to make the joints gas-
tight. If a bent pipe is used, the ends
can be cemented in the asbestos fur-
nace top and the can top. Cut a hole
centrally in the asbestos top and at one
side in the can top. Fit one end of the
pipe in the hole made in the asbestos
and seal the connection with asbestos
cement, then do likewise with the end
that enters the can top.

In connecting the first and second
cans, use a piece of 1-in. pipe. This may

be bent or connected with ells to form
a U-shaped piece. In either case, one
end should be longer than the other,
so that one will just pass into the first
can, where it is sealed with asbestos
cement, while the other end passes
through the second-can top, where it is
sealed, and extends to the bottom of
the can. For the connection to the
third can, make a hole in the top of the
second can, but do not seal it up to the
connection until the can is first filled
with water to within 2 or 3 in. of the
top. Also put powdered coke into the
water, about halfway of the can's
height.

The connection from the second and
third cans should be made of glass so
that the gas can be observed passing
through it between the cans. This is
not absolutely necessary, however, and
a piece of l/^-in. iron pipe can be used
instead. This pipe is connected in the
same manner as that between the first
and second, extending to the bottom of
the third can and being sealed where it
passes through the tops. The third can
is filled with water to within 2 or 3 in.
of the top.

The gas coming from the third can,
or washer, is ready for use, but as the
pressure would not be uniform, a stor-
age tank must be provided. To make
a storage tank suitable for the needs
of this small plant, procure two pans,
from 10 to 12 in. in diameter and from
3 to 4 in. deep. One pan should be a
trifle smaller, so that it may be inverted
in the larger pan, as shown. Make a
connection from the third can with a
rubber hose to the bottom of the larger
pan, near the center, and use this pan
as the bottom part of the storage tank.
Pour into this pan enough water to
make it 2 in. deep, invert the other pan
and set it into the water. Attach a gas
hose to the bottom of the inverted pan
and fasten a gas jet into the rubber-
hose end. This will make the gas plant
complete and ready to operate.

To start the furnace, bore a hole in
one side of the brick walls, about the
size of an ordinary lead pencil, and in-
sert a lighted taper to set fire to the
kindling. There may be some difii-

381

culty in getting the fire to burn at first,
and it may be necessary to force con-
siderable air in ; however, when the fire
is fairly started, it will burn freely and
the gases will soon find their way
through the first pipe to the condenser,
which is the first can. There they will
mingle and deposit some tar and am-
monia, then flow out through the sec-
ond pipe, up through the coke and
water in the second can and through
the glass tube, where they may
be observed passing into the can of
water, where some more tar and ammo-
nia will be deposited. After leaving
this can the gas will find its way
through the rubber tube into the stor-
age tank. It passes from this tank to
the burner, where it can be lighted and
will burn with a bright flame.

If it is possible to force steam into
the furnace when the fire is at its
height, a much better quality and a
larger volume of gas will be made.
This is accomplished by placing a

closed can of water over a fire near the
furnace and connecting it to the latter
with a piece of 1-in. gas pipe. The
water in this can must be boiling hot
at the time the fire in the furnace is
lighted. The steam entering the fur-
nace is decomposed, the hydrogen be-
ing released as a gas. The pipe con-
necting the boiler with the furnace
should be fitted in the furnace wall so
that the steam will pass in at the top
of the fire; about halfway up the side
of the furnace being about right. The
steam will start the gases more rapidly
and force them through the pipes.

Make sure that all connections are
carefully sealed to prevent the escape
of gases, as they will always follow the
lines of least resistance and pass out
through a very small crevice. The only
danger with a plant of this size is from
fire, wherefore it should be built away
from inflammable materials. It will
not make sufficient gas to be of injury
to any living being.

Webfoot Attachments for Swimmers

In order to make the feet more effec-
tive in swimming, webfoot devices are
frequently used. A simple arrangement
for this purpose is shown in the illus-
tration. It consists of three thin sec-
tions of metal, or wood, fastened
together on the back side with spring
hinges, which tend to remain open,
thereby keeping all the sections spread
out in one straight surface. The center
section should be cut to conform closely
to the shape of the foot, or it will pro-
duce considerable resistance during the
inward stroke of the foot, and tend to
stop the forward movement of the
swimmer. Straps should be provided
for attaching the device to the foot ;
one to fit across the toes, and the other
adjusted around the ankle by a buckle.

When using the device, the upward
or forward stroke of the legs will cause
the wings to brush against the water,
creating sufficient resistance to over-
come the slight force of the springs,
thereby pushing the wings parallel
with the direction of the stroke. Dur-

ing the opposite, or pushing, stroke,
the resistance of the water combined

Device for Attaching to the Feet to Work
Like Webfect

with the opening tendency of the
hinges will quickly spread the wings
out flat, greatly increasing the effect-
iveness of the feet. — Contributed by
J. B. Laplace, New York City.

383

Repairing Sectional Spun-Metal
Candlesticks

In repairing hollow, spun-brass can-
dlesticks I find that frequently the
metal rod holding the -sections together
becomes loosened from the pitch com-
position designed to hold it in the base.
By tinning the outer edges of the sec-
tions that fit into the other portions,
which are also tinned on the inner sur-
faces, and then using an iron, or an
alcohol torch, to run the solder to-
gether at the^e points, I secure a very
firm job. Paper can be placed at points
necessary to keep the solder from run-
ning out of bounds. When the rod is
firm and the nut only gives trouble,
solder can be used to fasten the nut
permanently to the grease cup at the
top. — Contributed by James M. Kane,
Doylestown, Pa.

Alcohol Blowtorch for Difficult
Soldering

To solder in close places, I have
found the device illustrated quite con-
venient, as it leaves both hands free to
handle the object being soldered. Two
pieces of spring brass, about 3 in. long
and 1/4 in. wide, are bent to the shape
shown at A and clamped together with
a screw taken from a dry cell, as shown
at B. This device clamped to the blow-
pipe end and fitted with a tube, such
as used for holding pencil leads, filled
with a wick saturated in alcohol, com-
pletes the blowtorch. It makes an ex-

Clamps for Holding the Alcohol Receptacle on the
End of the Blowpipe

cellent tool for small work, as the hands
are free to hold the parts to be soldered
in place. — Contributed by J. A. Tandy,
Ghent, Ky.

Preventing Sewing-Machine Thread
from Tangling

The highly enameled surface of a
sewing-machine arm oflfers so little
resistance to the
bottom of the
spool that the
thread will un-
wind faster than
it is used, there-
by causing a tan-
gle. A piece of
paper slipped
over the spool post will cause enough
friction to prevent the spool from re
volving beyond the proper speed.

PAPER -s MB:x»#

CUT OUT

Bearing Made of a Brass Cartridge

A brass cartridge niakes a good bear-
ing to fit in a wood
driving rod used to
run a small piece of
flF^^^g ||ii|[ii-\ foot-power machin-
t| JTiiji^p llll ery. It prevents

wear on the wood
and admits more
lubrication than the
bare wood. Cut the
cartridge to the
proper length, and
ream out the cap
hole even with the
diameter of the bore of the shell.

WOOD DRIVING ROD

CElectric wires should never be run
crooked.

Lighting a Match in the Wind

To light a match in a stiflf wind is
very easy if the wood part back of the
prepared end is
cut and turned
up about it be-
fore striking the
match. The
curled-up shav-
ings about the
striker will catch

fire easily and hold a flame, where in
the ordinary way it is easily blown out
when the composition of the striker
has burned up. — Contributed by E. K.
Marshall, Oak Park, 111.

A Miniature Cement Plant

By MORTON SOUTHARD

FOR many years geologists searched
for a substance which could be
molded into any size and form, and
would have the hardness of rock. As
a- matter of fact it was found that lime-
stone was composed of carbonic-acid
gas, clay, and lime, and that when
great heat was applied the sealing bond
was disrupted and the rock was re-
duced to a powder. When this powder
was p 1 a c e d in
water the gas was
set free so fast
that it made the
water boil. The
powder, or cal-
cined rock, is now
known as lime.
This action dem-
onstrated that na-
ture used heat and
moisture in form-
ing these mate-
rials into rock.
Knowing that
clay contained
silica, and that
silica furnished
the sealing quality
of rocks, experi-
ments were made
t o reverse the

order of this rock formation, and a ce-
ment was produced. Equal portions of
lime and clay were mixed together and
stirred until all parts were thoroughly
mingled, and then the mixture was sub-
jected to a very high heat, after which
the resulting mass was ground to a
powder. When this powder was mixed
with water, instead of the gases pass-
ing off as they did in the case of the
lime, they penetrated the clay and the
mixture became hard. This was first

The Furnace is Built Up of Ordinary Brick and
Used for Calcining the Lime

called Portland cement, as it was made
from Portland limestone.

This discovery partly solved the
problem of artificial-rock making, but
not wholly, for the best makes will
break, peel, and crack without the
slightest cause and when least ex-
pected, and besides its dark-gray color
and rough appearance is unattractive.
Much progress has been made with
cement for inte-
r i o r decorations
and many of the
finest marbles are
closely imitated.
This grade of
cement will not
weather and its
use i s confined
wholly to interior
work. A white
cement is much
desired and many
of the large manu-
facturers maintain
laboratories where
experiments a r €
carried on con-
stantly in the en-
deavor t o pro-
duce it.

To build a mini-
ature cement plant, first secure suffi-
cient common brick to make a fur-
nace with an inside cavity, 30 in. square
and 24 in. high. Two sides and one
back wall are built up, sealing the
brick with mortar, clay, or cement.
The bottom is covered with bricks
standing on edge, and so placed that
they will be about 1/4 in. apart, to serve
as a grate. The top is then covered
with a piece of tin, or asbestos, and a
hole is cut in its center to receive a

383

384

pipe, about 3 in. in diameter, for a
chimney. This chimney should be
about 15 in. high. Build the front wall
halfway up by laying the brick loosely
together so that the fire will get the air
through the crevices, then cover the
grate with kindling, place coal on top
of it, and start the fire. When it is well
under way, place a few fair-sized lumps
of limestone on top of the fire and com-
plete the wall to the top by laying the
brick as closely as po'Ssible. Use suffi-
cient coal to burn at least two hours.

When the fire has burned itself out
and the furnace has cooled, remove the
front wall and take out the burned
limestone. Some parts of the limestone
will be mixed with the coal, but most
of it will remain in the lump, which is

known as "black lime," and when it is
placed in water it will give off gas very
fast. Obtain some fire clay and thor-
oughly mix equal portions of lime and
clay, then place the mixture in a one-
piece pan, made of pressed tin or sheet
iron, as a soldered-bottom pan will
come apart with the heat. Build up the
front of the furnace as before, build a
fire and place the pan on the fire and
let it burn itself out. When the fuf-
nace has cooled, remove the front, take
out the pan, and pulverize the mass in
the pan. When this powder is placed
in water it will become hard. If some
sand or gravel is mixed with it, and the
mortar thus formed is spread out over
a flat surface, a miniature cement side-
walk will be the result.

Gauge for Laying Out Model Gear
Wheels

The illustration shows a simple de-
vice for making small gear wheels by
hand. It is made of a piece of brass.

together, by using a piece of sheet
brass, 6 in. long and i/^ in. wide. This
clamp also acts as a depth gauge for
the slots.

Place the wheel in a vise and proceed
by cutting the first slot very carefully.
Place the tooth A of the gauge in this
first slot and cut the next by holding
the side of the saw close up against the
end of the gauge, at B. This keeps all
the teeth radiating from the center of
the wheel. Cut each slot in the same
manner until all of them are formed. —
Contributed by George Jupp, New
York City.

The Gauge Steps Off Each Tooth Accurately for
the Saw to Cut the Next Slot

% in. thick and about 5 in. long, shaped
as shown, forming a tooth. A, accord-
ing to the size of the teeth required
in the gear wheel, with the end B on a
radial line from the center of the wheel.
Use one or more hacksaws, according
to the size of the slots or teeth to be
cut. If one blade is not large enough
and two are too large, grind ofi^ the
teeth on the inner side of the saws, or
if two are not large enough, place a
thin piece of paper or metal between
them to make the thickness required.
Make a clamp, C, for holding the blades

Homemade Level

Having need of a level, and there
being no place to obtain one within sev-
eral miles, I constructed one as fol-
lows : A long medicine bottle was filled
with water and tied to a straight piece
of wood, 2 ft. long. After setting it
properly by turning the piece end for

A Bottle Filled with Water and Tied to a Straigh
Piece of Wood for a Level

end several times, I found that it couW
be used with accuracy. — Contributed
by Fred L. King, Islip, L. I.

A Tuberculosis Cottage

By N. F. FULTZ

The tuberculosis society of a certain
locality needed a demonstration cottage
for their crusade against the white
plague, and they placed their need be-
fore the boys of the public-school shops.
One class of eighth-grade boys volun-
teered, and two days after the job was
started the complete cottage was de-
livered to the society. The material
required for its construction was as
follows :

220 linear feet of ship-lap. 1 in. thick and 6 in. wide.
SO ft. of 1-in. flooring.

6 studs, 14 ft. long.

7 pieces for plates and rafters, 2 by 4 in., 10 ft. long.
3 pieces for sills, 2 by 4 in., 16 ft. long.

100 ft. of sheathing boards.
100 ft. of tar roofing paper.

The cottage is constructed in sections
and can be assembled or dismantled in
30 minutes. The sections are not so
heavy but that they can be handled
with ease by two men. There are seven
sections, namely, the floor, two
sides, two ends, and two roof sec-
tions. If the cottage is to be mov
only a short distance, it
can be loaded into an ordi-
nary dray assembled.

Since the building is
made in sections, it is
well to construct the
floor first, which is a
simple matter. Cut two
sills of the 2 by 4-in.
stock, 10 ft. long. Cap
these onto the ends of
the five joists, which are
cut from 2 by 4-in.
stock, to a length that
will total 8 ft. when the
thickness of the two
sills are added. Lay the flooring the
long way of the section, bringing it
flush with all outside edges. This com-
pletes the floor section.

The two side sections are made in a
similar manner. Cut the studs — 12 of
them — 6 ft. 4 in. long, and four plates,
10 ft. long. Cap the ends of the studs
with the floor and rafter plates, accord-
ing to the measurement on the floor
plan. Nail five pieces of ship-lap, cut
10 ft. 1^,^ in. long, on the bottom of the

section, and one similar board to the
top edge. Bore four holes, % in. in
diameter, 1 in. from the outside edge in
the floor plate. These are for y2-in.
lag screws, to hold the parts together
when the sections are assembled.

The front-end section is arranged for
a 30-in. door. The top, or rafter, plate
is cut 7 ft. ^Yo in. long. This makes the
allowance for the width of the side
studs and plates when they are to be as-
sembled, a very important matter to
rememljer. The floor plate is cut 4 ft.
5 in. long. Provide a dum-
my, made from a waste
piece, to be fastened at
the bottom of the door i

Cottage Built by Boys to Fill the Requirements of a Tuberculosis Society
for a Demonstration in Their Crusade against the White Plague

studs until the sections are assembled,
when it is removed. Use screws to
fasten this piece in place. Nail five
pieces of ship-lap, 5 ft. long, at the bot-
tom of the section, and an 8-ft. piece at
the top. Be careful to set the end studs
in from the end of the board the exact
thickness of the corresponding studs on
the side section.

The back-end section is much more
easily made. The top plate, as well as
the floor plate, is cut the same

385

386

as on the other section. Place the
intermediate stud on the center and
nail on ship-lap, as in the other con-
struction.

Lap-Joint Corner Construction with Angle-Plate

Reinforcement for the Screens or

Storm Screens

In making the roof sections, cut four
rafters for an 18-in. pitch, or any other
pitch desired. These are to be placed
at the ends. Note the notch on the
lower end of the rafter marked A in the
illustration. Make allowance for the
thickness of the rider marked C. This

piece can be made of 2 by 4-in. stock
or any convenient material 1 in. thick.
The rider must be nailed to the comb
end of the rafters of one section, while
a dummy, fastened to the under side of
the rafters of the other section, will
serve the purpose of holding them true
until the roof is placed. Nail the sheath-
ing on, closing the cracks between the
boards as well as possible. Start at the
comb end and bevel the first board for
the comb joint. Make allowance for an
8-in. board at the lower end, so that a
4-in. overhang may be had. Cover these
sections with the desired roofing. Place
two screw holes at the lower end of
each rafter to be used in holding the
roof in place. Always use screws in-
stead of nails, if the house is to be dis-
mantled. Provide three rafter locks,
marked B, and then the roof is ready
for assembling.

The three gable boards, cut from
ship-lap, can be more easily made after
the cottage is assembled. After they
are fitted, each board must be fastened

DOTTED LINES
INDICATE INSIDE
OF 2"X4 SILLS

m-T'

-5-0 ■

-5-0'

2-6-

The Floor Section Consists of Simple Frame Construction of Ordinary Material and Flooring Boards
Fastened on the Frame to Make the Edges Flush with the Sides and Ends

387

with screws which will find a hold in
the rafters. These boards are marked
D. Be sure that all lag-screw holes

wall. Place screw eyes, to which the
rope may be tied, at proper places on
the inside of the wall boards. An ordi-

TACK FINE MESH WIRE
SCREEN OVER SWVCE
ABOVE. 5IDt BOARDS

THIS END OF %
ROPE FASTENED TO
■? STORM WINGS

SHIP LAP
SIDE BOARDS

Each Section is So Constructed
That It can be Easily Handled
and Set Up with the Others to
Form a Cottage, Only Screws
being Used to Fasten the Joints
for Quick Assembling

for the corner and floor moorings are
bored before starting to assemble the
parts.

The screens are made with the half-
lap construction at the corners rein-
forced with angle plates. This con-
struction is shown in tlie detail sketch.
The screens, or storm wings, should be
covered with a good grade of oilcloth or
canvas. They are hung with an ordi-
nary 3-in. wing hinge.

The adjusting device for these storm
wings consists of a piece of 1-in. gas
pipe, 4 ft. long, threaded on one end to
receive a collar. Two flanges are used,
one on each side of the board, above the
wings and located centrally. A wood
plug is driven into the outer end of the
pipe, and a small pulley, suitable for a
%-in. rope, hung on it. Place a screw
eye centrally into the lower edge of the
wing and tie the end of a %-in. rope to
it. Run the other end of the rope
through the pulley and a hole in the

nary screen door is hung in the door
opening.

A house built in this manner was
placed in the courthouse lawn as a per-
manent fixture. Among other things
brought out in the construction was
the fact that a cottage may be built 1)y
a boy at a cost less than $50. Thus a
stricken parent, brother, or sister may
be provided, by the hands of a young
mechanic, with tl^e first means that may
bring him or her back to health.

To Remove Putty from the Hands

Putty purchased from a dealer is
usually in a soft and oily state, and the
amateur glazier soon finds his hands, as
well as the tools, plentifully smeared
after the job is finished. Removing this
from the hands with the putty knife or
a stick is very tedious, but if a bunch
of fine excelsior is used, the putty will
be removed quickly and thoroughly.

388

Focusing Screen for Enlarging
Cameras

It is often very difficult when focus-
ing an enlarging camera to determine
just when the perfect focus is reached,
especially when the negative is dim
and without contrasting lights and
shades. This difficulty may be over-
come and a perfect focus quickly de-
termined by the use of a focusing
screen prepared as follows : Take a
clear film or plate, one that has been
fixed without being exposed, and when
dry, rule lines on it with India ink to
form small squares. To make the ink
adhere to the film, dust the latter with
talcum powder.

To use the screen, slide the film to be
enlarged in place and set it for the size
of enlargement, focusing roughly. Re-

move the film or plate and put the
screen in its place. The camera may
now be brought to a perfect focus with
ease, as the black lines show up sharp
and clear on the screen. When the
focus has been determined the screen
is removed and the film replaced.

The squares may be drawn from %-
in. size down to the smallest it is pos-
sible to make. For large views it is
easier to focus with the smaller
squares. If the squares are made to a
certain size they can be measured
when thrown on the screen and the de-
gree of enlargement determined. — Con-
tributed by R. H. Galbreath, Denver,
Colorado.

CThe longitudinal carriage handle
should never be held in the hand when
cuttinof threads.

An Indian Snake Game

Ask any Canadian Indian what a
snow snake is, and he will tell you that
it is a piece of twisted wood, such as a

u— 1

lpiis.^J

:J^^

end by the other hand, while at the
same time the hold in the center is loos-
ened. With a hard bottom and about 1
in., or more, of
light snow on top
— ideal conditions
for playing the
game — the Indian
snake will travel
for a long distance
when thrown by
an expert, and to
a novice seeing
the snake travel-
ing along at a
rapid speed, rais-
ing and lowering

wild grape vme,
about 5 or G ft
long, and 1 m or
o\er in thickness,
stripped of its
bark and polished.
It is grasped with
one hand in the
center and given a
strong forward
throw at the tail

Throwing the Snow Snake in Tracks Made through the Snow with a Log:

Each Player Tries to Get His Snake First Out at the End o£ the

Track More Times Than His Opponents

389

its head as the wood vibrates from
side to side, its resemblance to the real
reptile is perfect.

When the Indians have tests of skill
with the snake they make tracks
through the snow by drawing a log
in it, and sometimes as many as a
dozen tracks are made side by side, and
a dozen snakes are sent along at once.
The one who makes his snake emerge
from the end of the track first the most
times out of a certain number of
throws, takes the prize. The trick of
throwing the snake is not at all hard
to acquire, and it makes an exciting
game. — J. E. Noble, Toronto, Can.

Storage of Wood for Cabinetwork

When working with wood to be
made into furniture, or other construc-
tions of a high grade of workmanship,
the ends of the finished pieces should
be shellacked in order to prevent mois-
ture from entering the ends. The ends
are more susceptible to moisture, as
the pores of the wood are exposed.
The application of this remedy will
often prevent warping or winding of
boards, which is particularly distress-
ing after a piece has been shaped to its
final size.

The pieces should be stored in a
warm, dry room, and in any event care
should be taken that they are exposed
evenly. If a board is placed on the
top of a pile of similar pieces, it will
be noted that, if left overnight and the
weather becomes rainy, the upper
piece will be warped. This is caused
by the absorption of moisture on the
upper side, the resulting expansion
forcing the piece to warp or curve.

Long pieces of wood under process
should be set on end while being
stored temporarily. The permanent
storage should be in racks having sup-
ports about 2 ft. apart. If the supports
are too far apart, the boards may warp
or wind at intervening points. Boards
in piles should be separated by strips
about 1 in. thick, set about 3 ft. apart,
in order that the lumber may be open
to the air. This will keep the stock
more uniformly dry.

Hanging Heavy Rug on a Line for
Beating

An easy way to put a heavy carpet,
or rug, over a clothesline is to fasten
two pulleys, one to the house and the

lKUl,V..^*'

■ i*K'.r„V.

When the Rug is Placed on the Line It is Easily
Raised by Pulling the Rope Ends

other to a post or tree, or on two posts,
and hang the line between them ; then
pull the rug over the line and draw up
the ends of the line. A very heavy rug
can be easily hung in this manner. The
line should be long enough to reach
over the pulleys and to the ground and
have end enough at both supports for
fastening.

Repairing a Broken Metal Cross

A metal cross, the shank of which
was imbedded in a plaster ball, broke
ofif level with the
top. Not wish-
ing to remove
some of the plas-
ter to take out
the shank, I sol-
d e r e d a stout
brass pin on the
back of the cross,
allowing the pin
to project far

enough to fit solidly into a small hole
back of the shank. This allowed the
cracked edges to fit closely together
so that the crack could be entirely con-
cealed with a touch of broiize paint. —
Contributed by James M. Kane,
Doylestown, Pa.

•-SHANK

390

To Determine the Efficiency of Elec-
trically Heated Devices

The efficiency of any machine is de-
fined as being the ratio of the output
to the input expressed as a percentage,
and both quantities must be measured

TO SOURCE

OF energyX,

VOLTMETER

AMMETER

Connections to the Voltmeter and Ammeter for
Measuring the Input to an Electric Heater

in tlie same units. For example, the
output of a motor is 10 hp. when the
power taken by the motor from the
electric circuit to which it is connected
is 9,325 watts. What is the efficiency?
Since the output must be expressed in
the same units it is necessary to change
the 10 horsepower to watts or the 9,325
watts to horsepower. There are 746
watts in each horsepower. The 9,325
watts are equivalent to 9,325 -^ 746 or
12.5 hp. The efficiency is then equal
to 10 -ir 12.5 or .8 ; that is, the output is
.8 of the input or, when multiplied by
100 to change it to percentage, 80 per
cent.

By way of an example, consider the
efficiency of an electric heater, like the
one shown in the illustration, which is
immersed in water placed in a suitable
vessel. The energy input to this heater
in a given time may be easily de-
termined by measuring the current
passing through the heater circuit and
the difference in pressure between the
terminals of the heater. These meas-
urements may be made, in case the
heater is operated on a direct circuit,
by means of any ammeter and volt-
meter of suitalile capacity, connected
as shown. If the heater is operated on
an alternating-current circuit, only
alternating-current instruments can be
used, as certain types of instruments
will not operate when connected to
such a circuit. In either case, the

product of the ammeter reading in am-
peres and the voltmeter reading in
volts will give the power taken by the
heater in watts, assuming the heater
winding to be noninductive. If the
heater winding is not noninductive,
then the current and the electrical pres-
sure will no longer be in phase when
the device is operating on an alternat-
ing-current circuit, and a wattmeter
must be used. Practically all heating
elements are wound noninductively so
that the power may be measured by
means of an ammeter and voltmeter.

The energy taken by a heater in a
given time will be equal to the product
of the average power and the time.
For example, if the heater takes 300
watts for 30 minutes — 1/2 hour— then
the energy consumed is equal to 300
times 1/2 or 150 watt-hours, which is
equal to .15 kilowatt-hour.

To determine the output of the heater
is a little more difficult, but it may be
approximated as follows : Since the
object of the device is to convert elec-
trical energy into heat energy the out-
put must be measured in heat units.
The unit of heat most commonly em-
ployed is the calorie, which is the heat
required to raise the temperature of
one gram of water one degree centi-
grade. Hence, if a certain weight of
water has its temperature increased a
definite number of degrees centigrade
by the electric heater, then the total
heat imparted to the water in calories
will equal the weight of the water in
grams multiplied by the change in tem-
perature in degrees centigrade. Of
course, the heat generated by the heater
exceeds that obtained by the above
calculation, due to the fact that some
heat is imparted to the vessel contain-
ing the water and to the supports for
the vessel, but it is only the heat im-
parted to the water that must be con-
sidered, as the other heat is not useful.

When the temperature of the water
is raised to the boiling point and a part
of the water is evaporated, the fore-
going method of calculating the heat
imparted to the water no longer holds
good, and the following method must
be used. Weigh the water before and

391

immediately after the test to determine
the amount of evaporation. For each
gram of water evaporated there will be
required approximately 536 calories,
and the heat in calories imparted to
the water to raise its temperature to
the boiling point will be equal to the
difference between 100 and the initial
temperature of the water multiplied by
the weight of the water at the start.
To determine the efficiency, the input
to the heating element in electrical
units must be changed to heat units
which may be done by multiplying the
power in watts by the time in seconds
and this product in turn by .24, giving
the result in calories. The following
example may serve as a help in per-
forming such an experiment or test.

Weight of water at the start 500.0 grams.

Weight of water at the end of test 474.5 grams.
Temperature of water at the start. .2.5 deg. C.
Average current taken by the heater 6.5 amperes.
Average pressure at the heater

terminals 110 volts.

Time heater is connected .5^ minutes.

Change in temperature of the water 75 deg. C.
Heat developed -in heater :

6.5 .X 110 X 5>S X 60 X .24= 56,628 calories.

Heat absorbed by water in coming

to boiling point : 500 x 75^.. 37,500 calories.
Heat used in evaporating 2.5.5

grams of water : 536.x 25.5=. 13,6(58 calories.
Total heat absorbed by water. .51,16S calories.
Efficiency of heater :

cs4^xl00= 90.4 per cent.

56,626

This value of efficiency may be in-
creased by insulating the vessel with a
nonconductor of heat and providing a
covering for it, thus decreasing the
losses to the air and surrounding
objects.

The efficiency of an electric stove or
electric iron, or, in fact, any electrically
heated device, may be determined in a
manner similar to the water heater.
In the case of a stove, place a vessel
filled with water on it and measure the
heat imparted to the water in a given
time, also the input to the heating ele-
ment in the same time, from which
data the efficiency may be calculated.
In the case of an electric iron, damp-
ened cloths may be ironed and the
actual water evaporated by the iron, de-
termined by weighing the cloths be-
fore and after the ironing, together
with the increase in weight of the cloth
on the ironing board, the time the iron
is in use and the temperature of the

cloths. The actual water evaporated is
the difference in the weight of the
cloths before and after ironing, minus
the increase in weight of the cloth on
the ironing board, which takes up some
of the moisture from the cloths being
ironed.

Earthen Mustard Pots Used as Acid
Jars

A small earthen mustard pot of the
type shown makes an ideal acid pot

PARAPFINED CORK

A Bottle Made from an Earthen Mustard Pot
to Contain Acid

for the bench, as it is not only acid-
proof but will not upset so easily as
the ordinary acid bottle. The large
cork, or stopper of soft wood, thor-
oughly boiled in hot paraffin, is bored
for the insertion of another paraffined
cork holding the acid-brush handle. If
a coat of paraffin is given the handle,
it will easily resist the action of the
acid and last much longer.

Squeezing Paste from Tubes

Tubes of paste, glue, etc., may be
more easily han-
dled by applying
an ordinary key,
such as found on
most cans con-
taining fish put
up in oil. The
end of the tube is
inserted in the
slot of the key
and then turned.
— Contributed by
J. H. Priestly, Lawrence, Mass.

392

Seeing an Alternating Current in a
Mirror

It will almost appear impossible to
those unfamiliar with laboratory meth-
ods that one may watch the vibrations

FLAME

The Alternations of the Current may be Seen
by Looking in the Mirror

— 3,600 per minute — of an alternating
current in a little pocket mirror with-
out the use of any apparatus other
than a telephone receiver. The experi-
ment is very interesting and instruct-
ive, one that may be performed at prac-
tically no expense.

Take an ordinary inexpensive watch-
case receiver, drill a hole in the cover
for a short piece of brass tubing, to
make a gas connection, and then plug
up the center opening with a cork, into
which is tightly fitted a piece of i^-in.
tubing. The upper end of this should
be closed with a plug having a central
opening about the size of a pin. Pro-
cure a small rectangular pocket mir-
ror and remove the celluloid covering,
and then, across the back, solder a
piece of straight wire to form a verti-
cal spindle, about which the mirror
may be rotated. Connect any resist-
ance, such as a magnet coil of 10 or 30
ohms, in series with an incandescent
lamp, and then connect the receiver
terminals to the ends of this resistance.
In this manner an ideal alternating-
current supply of a few volts to operate
the receiver safely is secured. Turn on
the gas only sufficient to produce a
narrow pencil of flame, not over 1 in.
long. Mount the mirror as shown, or
hold the spindle between the thumb

and forefinger of the left hand while
rocking it back and forth with the
right. Ordinarily only a streak of
light will appear, but immediately
■ upon turning on the current this streak
will be broken up into a series of regu-
lar waves, flatter or sharper according
to the speed with which the mirror is
rocked. After carefully noting the
wave form, connect the receiver with
the primary of an ordinary medical
coil, across the make-and-break, and
note the marked difference in the
waves.

By replacing the receiver with a
block of wood having a circular depres-
sion, about 3 in. in diameter and i-g in.
deep, over which is pasted a disk of
smooth paper, the waves set up by the
human voice may be observed if the
talking is done loudly and close to the
disk. The gas connection in this case
is made from the back of the block, as
shown. As the several vowels are
sounded, the characteristic wave from
each will be seen in the mirror. It is
also interesting to increase the pitch
of the voice and note how much finer
the waves become.

Homemade Screen-Door Check

An outside screen door causes con-
siderable annoyance by slamming when
exposed to the wind, even if it is
equipped with a bumper. Nothing

Air-Cushion Check Made of a Bicycle Foot Pump
for a Screen Door

short of a door check will prevent this
slamming, so I made a very simple

393

pneumatic check for our door, which
works entirely satisfactorily.

A discarded bicycle foot pump was
procured and hinged to the casing over
the door, as shown in the illustration.
The hinge was made as follows : Two
holes, A, were drilled through the
stirrup, as near the foot plate as possi-
ble ; two ordinary screw eyes were
turned into the door casing at B, and
two pins were passed through the holes
in the screw eyes and the holes in the
stirrup. This allows the pump to swing
when the door is opened. The end of
the plungtr rod C is flattened and a
hole drilled through it to receive the
pin at the top of the bracket D, which
is screwed firmly to the door.

The action of the pump when the
door is opened can be readily under-
stood. The check is adjusted very
easily by the machine screw E, which
controls the exhaust of the air when
the door closes. The screw is turned
into the hole in the base of the pump
where the pipe was originally con-
nected. One side of the end of the
screw is slightly flattened to allow a
better adjustment. The pump can be
quickly removed by pulling out the
upper pin in the hinge part. — Contrib-
uted by M. C. Woodward, San Diego,
California.

Bushing Made of Brass Tip on Cart-
ridge Fuse

In order to fasten a short piece of
tubing in a socket which had become
worn to a funnel shape, without having
to tap the socket and
put in a threaded
bushing, it was fixed
as follows : One of
the brass tips on a
spent cartridge fuse
was cut ofif and one
of its ends filed ta-
pering. After trim-
ming the fiber lining
so that it would fit snugly over the
tube, it was driven home. The com-
bination of brass and fiber adjusted
itself nicely to the shape of the worn
socket and made a tight fit.

Opening Springs for a Tennis-Racket
Clamp

When putting a tennis racket in a
press, it is difficult to keep the press
open to let the
racket slip in.
This can be eas-
ily remedied by
simply putting a
small coil spring
around each of
the four bolts, as
shown. This
will always open
the press when
the bolts are
loosened. — Contributed by W. X.
Brodnax, Jr., Bethlehem, Pa.

Magic-Paper Fortune Telling

At outdoor carnivals and fairs there
is usually a fortune teller who uses a
glass wand to cau^e one's fortune to
appear on a pad of paper. Anyone
may perform this trick by observing
the following directions.

Instead of a glass wand use a long,
narrow bottle of glass. Dip a new pen
into copper sulphate, diluted with six
parts of water, and write out the "for-
tune" on a piece of paper. The writ-
ing, when dry, will not be visible.
Next procure two corks to fit the bot-
tle. An unprepared cork is placed in
the bottle and the other is pocketed,
after hollowing it out and inserting a
small sponge soaked in pure ammonia.

The bottle with the cork is passed
out for examination. The cork is casu-
ally placed into the pocket after it is
returned by a bystander. A pad of
paper is then profifered and an initial
is placed on the pad of paper by
the person whose "fortune" is to
be told. The paper is rolled up,
with the prepared side on the inside,
and inserted into the glass bottle. The
fumes of ammonia will develop the
mysterious message. The trick can
be repeated if several prepared sheets
of paper are on hand, and always
proves of interest in a party of young
persons.

Common Mistakes in Model Making

By H. J. GRAY

MODELS made as a pastime or for
exhibition purposes should rep-
resent correctly the full-sized machine,
not only as regards general design but
also in the proportioning of parts, the
finish, and the choice of materials. The
satisfaction derived from the posses-
sion of a model is greater when it is
truly representative. Study and care-
ful measurement of the original are
necessary to attain this result, and pro-
vide valuable experience in the appli-
cation of correct mechanical principles.

The most conspicuous, though per-
haps not the most frequent, errors
made by amateurs are in the propor-
tioning of the various parts. This
usually arises from insufficient study
of the original machine, and is often
sufficiently glaring to attract the atten-
tion even of a casual observer. The
foundation or base of a model station-
ary engine, for example, is often
painted to resemble brickwork. This
is correct, provided the spaces are pro-
portioned so as to represent bricks and
not three-ton slabs of granite.

Mistakes are made in the selection

of pulley wheels, both as regards the
character and the size of the pulley
that would be suitable for the particu-
lar purpose.

The "cheese-head" or flat-head ma-
chine screw appears to have a peculiar
fascination for the model maker, judg-
ing from the frequency with which it
is misplaced. It is only necessary to
consider what would happen in a full-
sized machine if such screws were used
for making joints in valve rods, cylin-
der covers, slide bars, for fixing bear-
ing caps, and the like, to realize how
completely such a defect mars the ap-
pearance of a model to a discriminating
eye. Bolts, or, in some cases, studs
and nuts, should be used to give an
appearance of correct workmanship.

Many novices make a serious mistake
in the character of the finish given to
the various parts. This usually re-
sults through devoting insufficient at-
tention to the method of manufacture
adopted in engineering practice. Un-
der the impression that a mottled ap-
pearance gives an ornamental effect,
they will make a shaft end with a

Fic.l

Fis.2

ri<;.4

Details of Correct and Incorrect Practice in Model Making: Fig. 1, Valve Rod Joined by "Cheese-Head"
Screws, Wrong, and Joined by Joint and Pin; Fig. 2. Bearing Cap Fixed with Flat- Head Machine Screws,
Wrong, and with Studs and Nuts; Fig. 3, Cylinder Cover Fixed with Flat- Head Machine Screws, Wrong, and
with Studs and Nuts; Fig. 4, Represeatatioa of a Brick Foundation, Incorrectly on Side, and Correctly on End

394

395

scraped finish. To the casual observer
there would be nothing amiss, but a
mistake of this kind would offend the
trained eye of an engineer, because it
is entirel}^ unrepresentative. The ob-
ject of scraping sliding surfaces is to
obtain a greater degree of flatness by
removing small inequalities. As the
subsequent use of a file would only
undo the work of a scraper, the surface
is permitted to remain mottled, as left
by the scraping tool. But the end of
an engine shaft is not a sliding surface,
and in engineering practice would be
finished in a lathe.

Nickelplating is often resorted to in
order to produce a brilliant and sup-
posedly pleasing finish to the model of
a casting. This is obviously wrong, for
the actual casting — which might weigh
tons — would be painted, and not elec-
troplated.

Locomotive wheels or stacks of pol-
ished brass add to the appearance of a
model only in the eyes of the uniniti-
ated. Few persons would care to risk
a railroad journey if the engine had
brass wheels. Iron or steel is the cor-
rect material to use. Brass is also often
used instead of iron for cylinders, con-
necting rods, and starting levers on
models, or for steam pipes, which
should be made of steel or copper.

In certain cases there may 'be un-
usual difiiculties in using the correct
material for a machine part made to a
small scale. It is then permissible to
use other material, provided some at-
tempt is made to disguise the fact by
means of an appropriate finish. Cop-
perplating, for example, may be used
to disguise some other material, if the
parts should properly be made of cop-
per. It is often convenient to make a
model boiler of brass. It should not be
polished but bronzed, to represent the
iron or steel plates of a full-size boiler.

ordinary oars was cut as shown, and
pipe fittings were attached to the ends
to form a detachable joint. When

Take-Down Emergency Oars

Owners of sail or power boats will
find the take-down oars shown in the
sketch easily made and of value in an
emergency far out of proportion to the
space occupied in a boat. A pair of

When Knocked Down the Oars Occupy Small Space
in a Boat

knocked down the oars may be stored
in a seat cupboard, or other convenient
place. — Contributed by H. E. Ward,
Kent, Wash.

How to Make Propeller Blades
Quickly

Requiring a number of propeller
blades for use in making models of
windmills, and other constructions, I
found that I could save much time and
obtain a satisfactory set of propeller
blades b}- using ordinary shoehorns of
the same size. The small ends of the
horns were flattened out so that they
could be fastened to pieces of wood
for bearings, and then hammered to
the proper shape for cutting the air,
or receiving the force of the wind.-

Bench Stop

Serviceable bench stops may be
made by grooving pieces of maple, or
other close-
grained, hard
wood and fitting
strips of clock
spring into them,
as shown in the
sketch. The
pieces must fit the holes in the bench
top snugly, and the spring will then
prevent them from slipping out. The
end of the spring fastened to the stop
should be annealed so that a hole for
the screw may be drilled into it read-
ily.— Contributed by Stanley Mythaler,
Spring Valley, Minn.

396

How to Make a Good Putty

To make a good putty the following
formula should be used: Mix equal
parts of firmly ground whiting and
white lead with enough linseed oil to
make a thick liquid ; add enough com-
mercial putty to this to make the con-
sistency of regular putty. This putty
will not crack or crumble, and it costs
very little to make. If desired, the
commercial putty may be left out and
enough whiting added to take up the
liquid. The life of this putty is four
times greater than a commercial putty.
—Contributed by L. E. Fetter, Ports-
mouth, N. H.

Cupboard for Kitchen Utensils

The illustration shows a style of a
cupboard in which kitchen utensils
can be kept in an
orderly manner
without taking
up a great deal
of space. The
cupboard is tall
and narrow, and
the interior face
of each side is
scored at even
intervals with
saw cuts, 14 in-
deep. In the
grooves are
placed shelves,
which are merely
squares of gal-
vanized iron. By
placing the shelf
in the proper grooves the space is
adapted to the size of the utensil. The
small floor space occupied allows the
cupboard to be placed in the part of
the kitchen that is most convenient.

done quickly it will not be noticed. A
piece of paper is used the size of a reg-
ular playing card, and an ace is made
on one side. When it is folded over,
one side of the reduced size is made to

A Diminishing Card Trick

A clever diminishing card trick may
be played with a piece of paper made
up as shown in the illustration. Show
the audience the whole card, Fig. 1,
then fold it halfway and show again,
Fig. 2, then again. Fig. 3. If this is

FOLDED TO !^ SIZE
Fi<i,3

Reducing the Size of a Playing Card While Holding
It in One Hand

show the same ace, then another fold
is made and the smaller ace is made. —
Contributed by Louis Waherer, Tif-
fin, Ohio.

Table Sockets for Electrical Heating
Apparatus

The usual method of running a wire
from a chandelier or wall bracket to a
heating device on the dining-room table
is inconvenient as well as unsightly.
This I overcome by making a special
narrow leaf to put in the extension top
into which sockets are set flush for

The Extra and Narrow Table Leaf Carries the
Electric Sockets for the Cooking Apparatus

extension wires. These are connected
to a floor socket, or a line can be run
under the carpet or rug. — Contributed
by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

397

Dressing for Fishline

A quick-drying dressing for fishlines
may be prepared as follows: Mix equal
parts of boiled linseed oil and gold
sizing; apply this to the line in a mod-
erately thick coat. Dressing which
will not dry as rapidly but which Avill
resist the water as well is made by
melting together 4 parts of paraffin and
1 part of resin. Melt the paraffin in
a deep metal vessel over a small fire,
and add the resin after the paraffin has
dissolved. Care must be taken not to
permit the fire to come into contact
with the mixture. Allow it to cool
slightly and then coil the line in the
vessel. Draw it through a piece of wet
sponge held between the fingers. This
will cool the mixture rapidly and the
line may then be stretched and pol-
ished with a wet rag. — Contributed by
A. E. Tetu, r)ttawa, Canada.

Utensil Rack for Camp Fire

A compact, simple device for hold-
ing cooking utensils over a camp fire
is shown in the sketch. It may be col-
lapsed into a small bundle and is of
light weight, factors which are im-
portant in camping equipment. The
device consists of two sections of pipe,
A, supported on rods, B, having eyes
bent at their upper ends. The lower
end of the supports is pointed and

' ''''''■t

Iron Pipes Held by Pointed Steel Rods Provide a

Simple and Satisfactory Support for Cooking

Utensils in the Camp

may be driven into the ground so as
to spread the pipes more at one end
than at the other, thus providing for
large as well as small utensils.

Wheelbarrow as Tennis-Court Marker

Many home tennis courts are not
provided with a marker, and the use of
a wheelbarrow for this purpose has
been found con-
venient. A can
pi-ovided with
hooks at its up-
per edge was at-
tached to the
front of the
wheelbarrow, as
shown in the
sketch, and the

Tennis Courts may be
Laid Out Quickly by the
Use of a Wheelbarrow to
Which a Can Containing
a Thin Lime Mixture has
been Fixed, as Shown

lime mixture, very thin, poured into
it. Holes were made at the lower
edge of the can so that the liquid ran
onto the wheel and was transferred
to the court. The holes must be made
large enough so that they will not clog
quickly, and the mixture must be very
thin. It is easy to cover the outline
several times if necessary. Hence, to
use a thin mixture will be found eco-
nomical, rather than to waste time
removing sediment from the spout.

Retouching Negatives for Printing

Portraits taken out of doors some-
times show unusually heavy shadows
under the eyebrows and chin. The
printing of these through the negatives
may be altered by applying a little red
or blue color on the glass side of the
negative. Stippling the surface by con-
tact with the texture of the skin also
aids in removing the heaviness of such
shadows.

398

Mat varnish, containing a small
amount of iodine dissolved in it, and
applied to the glass side of a negative,
will cause much lighter prints than if
the negative is permitted to remain
with heavy shadows. The varnish will
dry quickly, and it maj' then be scraped
off carefully or removed with benzole
from the parts of the negative which
are not to be lightened. Care must be
taken in scraping away the varnish in
order to prevent scratches.

Hand-Operated Whirling Fan

The whirling fan illustrated is more
convenient than a fan of the ordinary
type, and may be made by a boy of
only moderate mechanical skill. The
materials necessary for its construction
are easily available in the home. The
sketch at the center shows the com-
pleted fan, and the smaller sketch at
the right illustrates the method of op-
eration. The details of construction
are shown in the working drawings.

The wins: of the fan is cut from a

of the driving shaft being glued into
place at the same time. The small
sketch at the left shows the size and
shape of the piece of wood into which
the driving shaft is fastened at its up-
per end.

The driving rod, shown at the right
of the larger sketch, is % in. in diam-
eter and 91-; in. long. The flattened
portions near the upper end are drilled
to receive the ends of the cords which
wind and unwind on the shaft at the
top of the handles. A brace of similar
wire is fixed near the middle of the
handles so that they pivot on its ends
when the lower ends of the handles
are pressed together, as shown in the
sketch at the right. The handles are
of wood, 1/4 in. thick, i/o in. wide, and
6Y2 '"• long. Their ends are rounded,
and slight notches are cut into the cor-
ners near the ends, to provide for the
tying of the cords.

A wide rubber band, slipped over the
handles near their upper ends, causes
them to close at the top, and when the
fan is in use this will reverse the rota-

RUBBER BAND

The Whirling Fan Is Superior to One of the Ordinary Variety and may be Made at Home of Materials'

Readily Available. The Small Sketch at the Right Shows the Method of Operation, and the Details

of Construction are Shown in the Larger Sketch and in the Working Drawings

sheet of Bristol board, and is 6 in. long
and 51/2 in. wide. It is formed by glu-
ing two pieces together, the upper end

tion of the fan. It is necessary only to
squeeze the handles inward, and the
reverse action is repeated.

399

Photographing Electric Sparks

Electric sparks may be photographed
with simple equipment, and the process
offers a diversion from the common
subjects for photography. The mate-
rials necessary are a spark coil and cur-
rent source, a photographic plate, fa-
cilities for developing it, and a sheet of
tin foil. The illustration shows a typi-
cal photograph of an electric spark,
and the variety possible is unlimited.

The process, which must be per-
formed in a dark room with a ruby
light, is as follows : Over the mouth
of a small glass bottle, partly filled
with talcum powder, tie a piece of
cheesecloth, to act as a sieve. Arrange
the material on a table, the sheet of tin
foil lying flat, and a photographic plate
on top of it, coated side upward.

Spread a thin layer of the powder on
the plate, through the sieve. Attach
a needle to an electric wire and fix the
other end of the
wire to one of
the secondary
posts of the
spark coil. At-
tach a second
wire to the other
post of the spark
coil and to the
sheet of tin foil.
Care must be
taken in handling
the needle that only the insulated por-
tion, where it is joined to the wire,
comes in contact with the fingers, or a
shock may result. Place the point of
the needle near the middle of the plate
and turn on the current, permitting it
to produce a spark of not more than
one second's duration. If the exposure
is longer than that the result will not
be satisfactory. Wipe off the powder
and develop the plate. If care has
been taken in the process, a photo-
graph similar to the one shown in the
illustration will result.

Cannon-Shell Dinner Bell

Being called to dinner by the stirring
peal of a bell made of a cannon shell is

Its Tones Penetrate
a Large House

a novelty in use in Toronto. The bell
shown in the sketch was made of a
3-in. brass shell, and when struck with
a gavel gives out tones that penetrate
throughout a large house.

The cap piece was removed at A, and
an eyebolt fastened in place with a nut
on each side. The gong was suspended
from a wall bracket made of a band of
brass fastened to the wall. — Contrib-
uted by James B. Noble, Toronto,
Canada.

Use for Old Magazines

Magazines are often thrown away
because of the rapidity with which they
accumulate. Since most readers care to
save only certain articles, a good plan
is to tear the magazines apart, remov-
ing the desired articles and binding
them in a separate volume. If this is
carefully and systematically done, and
an index prepared, the volume will be
of value and interest.

CShoulder hooks fixed about a shop,
so that handsaws may be placed on
them by the handle, will save damage
to saws.

Flatiron Polisher

Housewives, and others who appre-
ciate the need for a smooth surface on
a flatiron, will find the polisher shown
in the sketch a convenient aid in keep-
ing their irons in proper shape.

A wooden block, about 4 in. wide
and 6 in. long, was fitted with five thin

400

patches of beeswax as shown in the up-
per sketch. The holes bored into the
wood were made large enough to fit the
WAX wax, which may

be purchased in
large thimble-
shaped pieces. A
double layer of
line n, or other
strong cloth, was
fitted over the
side having the
wax imbedded in
EMERY it, and a piece of
CLOTH ^j^g emery cloth

was folded over
the other side of
the block. A
band of sheet
iron riveted together so as to fit snugly
over the edges holds the cloth and
emery cloth in place.

The flatiron may be polished by rub-
bing it on the emery-cloth side of the
block and waxed slightly by rubbing
it over the cloth .side.

Clothespin-Basket Hook

To conveniently support a clothes-
pin basket along the line on which the
,!. clothes are be-

ing hung, a wire
support can be
provided, bent
to form a hook
at both ends and
the center
shaped into a V-
bend. With the
basket support-
ed by the two
ends, the wire
can be slid along
the clothesline
as required. —
Contributed b y
N. R. Moore,
Cherokee, Iowa.

CVar n i s h i n g
should as a rule
be done in a room having a tempera-
ture of 80° F., and in some instances
15° higher is desirable.

Leather Tire Patch

A leather patch fixed over a tire
puncture with shellac will be found to
give satisfaction and may be attached
easily. Cut the patch somewhat larger
than the puncture and thin out "its
edges with a knife. Alelt flakes of
shellac in a flame, fusing them, and
rub the hot mixture on the patch and
tire, smoothing it down quickly. Such
a patch may be placed over a plug and
will aid in holding it in place. — Con-
tributed by Robert C. Knox, Peters-
burg, Fla.

A Perpetual Whirligig

Camphor is the motive power which
drives the device shown in the illustra-
tion, and it will cause the whirligig to
revolve for several days, or until the
camphor is consumed.

The whirligig is made of a piece of
cork, I/O in. square, with a needle stuck
into each of its four sides. Smaller
pieces of cork, to which pieces of cam-
phor have been
fixed by means
of sealing w a x,
are attached to
the ends of the
needles. Care
should be taken
to keep the nee-
dles and cork
free from oil or grease, as this will re-
tard their movement. As soon as the
device is placed in a dish of water it
will start whirling and continue to do
.so as long as motive power is supplied.
A small flag or other ornament may be
attached to the center cork.

Testing and Caring for Files

To test a file hold it so that the light
will be reflected sharply from the teeth
and observe whether their edges are
flattened and appear as white lines.
If so, the file is dull and should be
recut if of considerable size and value.

Files should not be thrown into
drawers and mixed with other tools,
but should be carefully set in racks or

401

drawers for the purpose. A mechanic
would not throw a straightedge into
a drawer containing other tools, and a
file should be given similar considera-
tion, as every nick in the teeth impairs
the efficiency of the file.

Files may be sharpened by dipping
them into sulphuric acid, but care
must be taken not to permit the acid
to come into contact with one's clothes
or person. Water is used to wash ofif
the acid.

Files should be provided with indi-
vidual handles. This prevents injury
to the hand of the worker and aids in
the proper use of the file. Handles
should be carefully fitted and be made
of a size proportionate to the file. In
removing a handle from a file, strike
the handle at the end nearest the file,
by sliding a piece of hard wood along
the surface of the file, as the blow is
struck with it. Do not use another
file or metal object in thus removing
a handle, as it will injure the latter.

Catching Large Fish with a Teaspoon

Teaspoons may be made into allur-
ing trolling spoon hooks, of a size suit-
able for catching large fish, by the ad-
dition of hooks, as shown in the
sketch.

Drill I's-in. holes near the end of the
spoon handle, the tip of the bowl, and
near the handle of the latter.

Procure three sets of triple hooks, a
line swivel, and a strip of lead, about 1
in. long. Rivet one end of the swivel
and the loop of one of the triple hooks
into the hole of the handle. Wire the
lower end of this triple hook to the
handle and with the same piece of
copper wire secure a second triple
hook at the thin part of the handle.
Drill a hole through the lead strip and
rivet it, together with a third triple
hook, into the upper hole of the bowl.
Fix the lower end of this hook by bind-
ing it with copper wire, through the
hole near the tip of the bowl.

This hook has been tested in the
waters of Puget Sound and is a deadly
lure for rock cod, and other fish weigh-
ing up to 13 lb. The famous barracuda

and rock bass of the Catalina Islands
have also been caught with it. By
permitting the lure to sink to the bot-

RIVET

LINE
SWIVEL

COPPER WIRE

Once a Fish has

Struck This Bait,

It Is Seldom Able

to Escape

torn and bringing it up a yard or two
with a quick jerk, it acts as a "jig"
bait. It may also be used in trolling.
Once a fish has struck, it is seldom
able to escape. — Contributed by O. P.
Avery, Los Angeles, Cal.

An Easily Made Counter

From unruled paper cut a piece, as
shown at A in the sketch, and make
slits parallel and eveijly spaced with a
sharp knife. Also cut six strips, sim-
ilar to the one shown at B, to fit the
slits cut in A. The strips are num-
bered as shown and inserted on the
under side of A, and by pulling the
strips as shown, one can count up the

An Accurate Account can be Kept of Parts or Score
for Any Game by Pulling the Strips

number of parts or keep tally on any
game. By making more slits and using
more strips very large numbers can be
recorded.

CBe sure to keep the screw and nut in
the jaws of a drill chuck clean and well
oiled, to prevent broken screws.

402

To Uncork a Bottle with a String

A convenient method of uncorking
a bottle, from wliich liquid is to be
poured frequently, is to thread a strong
string or cord through the cork, tying
it in a loop, which remains at the open-
ing of the bottle. The cork may be
removed easily by drawing on the
string. This is more satisfactory than
the use of a corkscrew, as the latter
frequently tears the cork. — Lee A. Col-
lins, Louisville, Ky.

Wood Turning on an Emery Grinder

The experimenter often requires
small turned-wood pulleys, circular
bases for switches, etc. To produce
these it is not necessary to have re-
course to a wood lathe, if a good emery
grinder is at hand. Simply clamp the
grinder firmly to the workbench, re-
move the grinding wheel, and fasten on
a block to serve as a faceplate. This
may be held in place by the nut that
holds the wheel and should be trued up
with a small chisel when in place. A
tool rest may be improvised by tempo-
rarily nailing one or more blocks of
wood to the bench. The article desired
should be first roughed out with a saw

The Hand Emery Grinder of
the Home Workshop Used
as a Substitute for a Lathe

and then fastened to the faceplate with
screws or brads, after which the actual
wood turning will require very little
time.

Three Bathroom Kinks

The devices for the bathroom illus-
trated may be made easily and con-
tribute to the comfort, convenience.

The Fixed Window Pole Is an Inducement to Venti-
lation; the Curtain Protects the Wall, and the
Lower Shade Gives Light with Privacy

and, in the case of the fixed window
pole, to the safety of the room. A wall
curtain. A, placed on the towel rod,
or hung on the wall beside the wash-
basin, is especially convenient in keep-
ing the walls unsoiled by children who
make use of the room and are likely
to splash suds while washing. Double
roller shades on the window, as at B
and C, give light and privacy as well.

Poor ventilation in bathrooms occa-
sionally causes asphyxiation and is
often a menace. The permanent fixing
of the window pole D makes it con-
venient to open the window, which op-
eration is often neglected through fear
of drafts from the lower sash and the
lack of a pole. Fig. 2 shows the top
of the pole P, provided with a screw
eye, S, which is fastened to a metal
strip, H. — D. L. Hough, Toledo, Ohio'.

Prevents Soiling Goods after Oiling
Sewing Machine

To prevent a sewing machine that
has been oiled from soiling the mate-
rial, the following is a good method :
Tie a small piece of ribbon or cotton
string around the needle bar near the
point at which it grips the needle.

PIGEON houses need not be eye-
sores, as is often the case, jjut
may be made to harmonize with the
surroundings, adding beauty to a dull
spot, and even making the grounds of
a home more attractive. The house
described will accommodate 20 pigeons,
and additional stories of the same type
may be added to provide for more.
Nearly all of the wood necessary may
be obtained from boxes, and the other
materials are also readily available at
small cost. The construction is such
that a boy handy with ordinary car-
pentry tools may undertake it success-
fully.

The house is constructed in general
on principles used in buildings, having
a framed gable roof, rough-boarded
and shingled. The interior arrange-
ment is original, being based on the
Indian swastika or good-luck sign.
While the construction is simple, it
must be carried out systematically.
The process outlined also follows in
general the typical methods in build-
ing construction.

The foundation need not be consid-
ered, since the house rests upon a
post, and the construction thus begins
with the lower story. The floor and the
ceiling are similar in construction, as
shown in Fig. 1. In framing them
into the lower story, as may be ob-
served in Fig. 8, the cleats are placed
below on the floor and above in the
ceiling. The construction is identical,
however. The cleats are fastened to
the boards with screws, although nails,
clinched carefully, may be used. The
4-in. hole at the center should be made
accurately, so as to fit the shoulder
portion at the top of the post, shown
in Fig. 2. The latter may be cut of
a length to suit ; about 9 ft. will be

found convenient. The notches in the
top of the post are to fit the ridge pole
and center rafters of the roof frame,
as shown in Fig. 10. They should not
be made until the house is ready for
the roof boards.

The pieces for the compartments, as
arranged on the floor in Fig. 3, are
made next. Figs. -4 and 5 show the
detailed sizes of these pieces, of which
four each must be made. The sizes
shown must be followed exactly, as
they are designed to give the proper
space for entrances and to fit around
the 4-in. square hole, through which
the post is to fit. The pieces marked
A, B, and C, in Figs. 4 and 5, corre-
spond to those similarly marked in
Fig. 3.

The pieces are nailed together to
form the swastika in the following
manner:

Mark the pieces A, B, and C, as
shown. Measure 4 in. from one end of
each piece marked A, and square a
pencil line across, 4 in. from the end.
Arrange the pieces in pairs. Place one
end of one piece against the side of
the other piece in the pair, so that the
pencil line is even with the end, per-
mitting the 4-in. portion to project.
Nail both pairs in this position. Then
fit the two parts together to form a
4-in. square in the center, as shown in
Fig. 3.

Fit the pieces C to the pieces B at
an angle, as shown in Fig. 3, trimming
off the projecting corners where the
pieces are joined. Nail them together,
and they are ready to be fixed to the

403

404

end of the pieces A, already nailed. By
nailing the joined pieces B and (J to
the end of the pieces A, as shown in
Fig. 3, the swastika is completed. Fix
it into place, with the center hole
exactly over the square hole in the
floor, by means of nails or screws
driven through the floor.

Two small strips must now be nailed
to the floor at each side of the swas-
tika. They should be exactly iVo in.
long, and are to hold the slides, Fig. 9,
which shut oft the various compart-
ments. The slides are shown hanging
by chains in the headpiece of this
article, and are shown in place in
Fig. 8.

Fix the ceiling into place m the
same manner, being careful that the
square holes fit together, and that the
cleats are on the upper side. Turn the
construction over and fix into place
the small strips for the slides, as was
done on the floor.

The fixed screens. Fig. 6, and the
doors, Fig. 7, are constructed similarly.
They are built up of V2-i"- wood, and
vary in size to fit their respective places
in the framework. Observe that the
fixed screens are 1/4 in. higher than the
doors, and that they are fastened be-
tween the ceiling and floor, bracing
them. The wire grating is l/o-in.
square mesh, and is fixed between the
pieces of the doors and the screens
when they are built up.

The doors are shown secured by
combination strap hinges, bent over
the baseboard. Plain butts may be
used and the lower portion of the
hinge covered by the baseboard, a
recess being cut to receive the part
covered. In the latter instance the
doors should be fixed into place imme-
diately after the screens are set.
Catches and chains may then be
placed on the doors. Next nail the
baseboards into place. They are 21^
in. wide and may be mitered at the cor-
ners, or fitted together in a square, or
butt, joint. The latter joint may be
nailed more readily.

The slides, shown in Fig. 9, may
now be made and fitted into their
grooves. The handles are made of

strips of band iron, drilled for screws
and bent into the proper shape. It is
important that the slides be con-
structed of three pieces, as shown, so
that they will not warp or curve from
exposure. The main piece is cut T% in.
long, and the strips, I/2 in. square, are
nailed on the ends.

The construction of the framing for
the roof should next be taken up. This
probably requires more careful work
than any other part of the pigeon
house, yet it is simple, as shown in
Fig. 10. Note that the rafters are set
upon a frame, or plate as it is called,
built up of pieces 3 in. wide. It should
be made 14 in. wider and longer on the
inside than the ceiling board, so as to
fit snugly over it. The joints at the
corners are "halved" and nailed both
ways. This gives a stronger structure
than butting them squarely and nail-
ing them. The end rafters should be
fitted in before fixing the others. It is
best to make a diagram of the end of
the roof framing on a sheet of paper,
or a board, and to lit the rafter joints
in this way before cutting them. The
rafters are then nailed into place.

The "rough boards" to cover the
rafters may now be nailed down. They
are spaced l/^ in. apart so as to permit
thorough drying, as is done in larger-
buildings. They project 3 in. beyond,
the ends of the plate frame, supporting
the rafters. A i/2-in. strip is nailed
over the ends to give, a neat finish The^
roof may^be shingled, r>r covered with
tar paper, or any roofing material.

Nail a 1-in. strip under each end of
the roof and nail the gable ends into
place. One gable end is provided with
a door, as shown, and the other has
an opening fitted with a wire screen
of the same size as the door.

The gable story rests on the lower
story, and the notches in the top of the
post should fit snugly to the ridge and
center rafters, as shown in Fig. 10.
This will aid in supporting the house
firmly. If additional stories are added
it would be well to place a post at each
corner of the house. The upper story
may be removed for cleaning, or for
transporting the house.

Fic.l I

Fig. (2

405

406

The post should be sunk into the
ground about 2Y2 ft- and set into a
concrete foundation, if convenient.
This will insure a more nearly perma-
nent as well as a more rigid support.
Care should be taken that the post is
set plumb and this can be accomplished
if a plumb bob is used. The post
should be braced to keep it vertical,
particularly if a concrete foundation is
poured and tamped around it.

The construction should be painted
two coats, inside and out, of a color to
harmonize with buildings or other sur-
roundings.

The cost of building the house
shown in the illustration was $3.50,
and by using tar paper for the roof,
and discarded wire mesh, hinges, and
other fittings, this may be reduced
considerably.

CIn matching molding into corners it
is often difficult to make miter joints.
The molding may then be "coped'' to-
gether by matching the end of the
piece to be joined to it with the curves
or surface of the molding. A coping
saw is used in sawing the irregulr.r
end.

Roses Tinged Blue by Chemicals

Roses may be colored without any
detrimental efl:"ect by placing their
stems in a solu-
tion of 100 cubic
centimeters of
water, 2 grams
of saltpeter, and
2 grams of an
aniline dye. A
centerpiece
of roses colored
to represent the
national colors
was made in this
way and proved
very effective as
a table decora-
tion. A conven-
ient way to color
the flowers is to
place their stems
in a test tube
containing the mixture. — Contributed
by Chester Keene, Hoboken, N. J.

Making Photographic Trays

Serviceable trays for use in develop-
ing and printing photographs may be
made quickly of cardboard boxes of
suitable sizes. Where one is unable
to transport readily a full photographic
equipment these trays will prove con-
venient as well as inexpensive. They
are made as follows :

Procure boxes of proper sizes and

see that they have no holes or open-
ings at the corners. Melt paraffin and
pour it into the box, permitting it to
cover botli outside and inside surfaces
If the paraffin hardens too rapidly the
box may be heated and the work com
pleted. — Contributed by Paul A. Bau
meister. Flushing, N. Y.

Camp Lantern Made of a Tin Can

Campers, and others who have need
of an emergency lantern, may be in-
terested in the
contrivance
s h o w n in the
sketch, which
was used in pref-
erence to other
lanterns and
made quickly
when no light
was at hand. It
consists of an or-
dinary tin can, in
the side of which a candle has been
fixed. A ring of holes was punched
through the metal around the candle
and wires were placed at the opposite
side for a support. The glistening in-
terior of the can reflects the 'light ad-
mirably.— Contributed by F. H. Sweet,
Waynesboro, \'a.

C Interior woodwork may be made
proof against ordinary flame by coat-
ing it with silicate of soda, known as
water glass.

Sidecar for a Parcel -Delivery Bicycle

By p. p. AVERY

OUICK delivery of small packages
within a two-mile radius can be
accomplished with a bicycle by a sturdy

should be strongly fastened, tongue-
and-groove boards being used, and the
side corners should be fitted with iron

DETAIL OF TRUSS UNDER
MAIN CROSS ST/>,V

SIDE VIEvy

FRONIT VIEW

An Ordinary Strong Bicycle can be Made into a Substantial Delivery Car by the Addition of a Body

and a Third Wheel

boy. An ordinary bicycle is used, pref-
erably one with coaster brake and mud-
guards. Iron braces. V^ by IVl i"-. are
shaped to make the framework, and the
ends are looped to fasten around the
frame of the bicycle and the supporting
fork of the third wheel. This wheel is
a bicycle front wheel with a fork. A
mudguard on the third wheel is desir-
able. Make the iron parts as detailed,
and fasten them into place. The body
is made of ^-i"- wood, preferably oak.
The upper portion of the body is cut to
receive the top brace, which is not in
the way in loading or unloading the
packages. Fasten the box with Yi-'m.
carriage bolts, using a spring washer
under the nut wherever a joint is made
between wood and iron. A canvas
cover can be cut to fit the top and
secured at one end only, with three
catch knobs on the sides and corre-
sponding eyelets in the canvas, keep-
ing the dust and rain from the interior
of the body.

It is a good plan to stiffen the body
with corner braces, using 1/8 ^Y %-'»■
band iron. The floor of the bodv

braces at the bottom. The body may
be extended farther over the rear, if
more loading space is required.

One coat of priming and one of paint
finishes the box, and with the name of
the merchant on the front and rear,
the whole makes a neat advertising
feature. Regarding the selection of a
bicycle, since great speed is not essen-
tial, the lower the gearing is, the easier
it will be to propel the load, and for
ordinary work, where only small grades
are covered, a gear of about 65 will be
found efficient.

Handy Use for Adhesive Tape

Adhesive tape is useful in the shop
and for the home mechanic, for many
purposes : to mend broken handles
temporarily : to bind up a cut finger ;
to prevent a hammer or ax handle from
slipping in the hands, by applying tape
around the handle ; for making a fer-
rule for an awl, chisel, etc. ; around
the nail set it will keep that tool from
jarring the hand ; around a lead pencil
in the vest pocket as a guard.

407

■lOS

A Toy Machine Gun That Fires
Wooden Bullets

For use in the mimic battles which
most boys like to stage in this war
time, an interesting mechanical toy
that a boy can easily
make of m a t e r ia 1 s
picked up in the work-
shop, is a machine gun
ha\'ing a magazine for
wooden bullets, and
s which can be made
as a single or a dou-
ble-barrel gun. The
construction of the
single - barrel arrange-
ment is detailed in the
sketch and the modifi-
cation for a double-bar-
rel gun is shown in the
smaller diagram. It is a duplicate of
the first type, suitably mounted as
shown. The gun is fired by turning
the crank on the wheel and the bullets
can be quickly replaced in the maga-
zine at the top.

The support for the gun is made of

The Machine Gun is Fired by Turning the Crank at
the Wheel, the Pins on the Latter Drawing Back the
Hammer, Which is Hooked Up with a Rubber Band

wood and braced strongly at the base.
The gim proper is set into the top of
the vertical piece, as shown, and the

magazine, which is bent from a piece
of tin to the shape detailed in the sec-
tional view, fits on top of the breach
of the gun. The hammer, which drives
the bullets, is made of a piece of stiff
wire bent to the shape shown. The
lower curved end is connected to a
small nail set on a block at the shaft
of the wheel. To fire the gun, the
hammer is drawn back by contact with
the small nails set into the side of the
wheel. As the wheel is turned, the
nails grip the hammer and then sud-
denly release it, driving out the low-
est bullet each time. The bullets are
piled in the magazine, as shown in the
detailed view at the right, where the
rear view of the gun barrel is indicated.
—Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla,
Washington.

Using Plate Holder
as Printing Frame

A cumbersome part of a commercial
photographer's equipment when "on
the road" is his set of printing frames.
Amateur photographers who have cam-
eras using plates of more than one
size find these frames an expensive
part of their outfits. A method that is
practical and inexpensive for these re-
quirements in many cases, is as fol-
lows : Place the sensitized paper in the
plate holder with the emulsion side up.
Then put the plate in the holder in the
same way rs if about to expose it in a
camera, but with the emulsion side
down, so that the sensitized side of the
paper and the emulsion side of the plate
are in contact. The paper and plate
are thus held in close contact without
the use of springs, as in the regular
printing frames. The plate and paper
can be removed by pressing the spring
catch at the bottom of the holder, and
the plate is not easily moved while in
place. — Francis W. Clinton, Brooklyn,
New York.

C Leaks in garden hose may be re-
paired by wrapping several layers of
adhesive tape over the break, lapping
the edges carefullv.

409

Wire Clips Weight Paper
in Typewriter

Three wire paper clips linked to-
gether make a good weight for type-
writer sheets that keep rolling or blow-
ing back over the carriage, into the
operator's way, in a breezy office or
where a fan is not properly stationed.
They may be quickly applied to the
end of the sheet, or batch of paper
and carbon sheets, and removed as eas-
ily, saving time and annoyance. — H. P.
Roy, Kansas City, Mo.

Chain Weight Prevents
Whipping of Flag

A length of chain, sewed into a hem
at the lower edge of a flag makes an
inconspicuous and effective weight to
prevent whipping of a flag suspended
from a horizontal stafif. A piece of
cord can be threaded through the links
of a chain to prevent it from rattling,
if necessary

Poultry-Fence Construction
Economical of Netting

Not wanting to put a high poultry
netting on my fence to keep my poul-
try at home, I de-
vised the method
^hown, and was thus
enabled to use 24-in.
wire instead of 48-
in., thereby efifecting
a saving, as well as
not marring the ap-
pearance of the
fence. Chickens will
not attempt to fly
over this wire but
once or twice, as
they endeavor to
alight on the pickets
of the fence instead
of the wire, and con-
sequently are thrown
back by striking the
wire. The wire
should be supported at each post, as
shown in the sketch. — Roy H. Poston,
Flat River, Mo.

A Fort Built of Snow Blocks
Made in Box Form

What boy does not enjoy a regular
snowball fight — a battle, in fact — espe-
cially when he has a fort of his own

The Making of the Snow-Block Fort Is Nearly as

Much Fun as Daring the Enemy to Come and

Capture It or Capturing the Enemy's Barricade

building to defend, and his friends have
one which he wants to capture? A way
to build a snow fort that will not crum-
ble easily when the enemy charges it
is to pack the snow into a box form
and build the structure of the snow
blocks, as shown in the photograph.
Portholes can be provided and when
the snow melts
slightly, and
freezes again, a
very solid wall
results. The
form for the
block, as detailed
in the sketch, is
made of a box,
arranged so that it is hinged at one
corner and has a catch at the corner
diagonally opposite. The form is set
on a wooden board and when the snow
is packed in solidly, the catch is opened
and the form lifted away from the
block. It is then carried into position
and another block made on the same
board. Several boards are handy in
making the block quickly. — H. S., Chi-
cago, 111.

DETACHED

BOTTOM' '

CIn applying varnish over an old wood
surface, or on new wood that has be-
come soiled, care should be taken to
remove all traces of oil or grease with
benzine.

41U

Model Steam Tractor
Made by Boy

Boys, and others who like to make
models, may be interested in a small
steam tractor I designed and built of

This Model Steam Tractor Is 28 Inches Long and

Drives Itself, Wood and Coal being

Used as Fuel

scrap materials around the farm shop.
I used only the ordinary tools on hand
in such a place. The steam engine and
tractor run smoothly, and the engine
propels the tractor just like a large ma-
chine of this kind. The tractor is 28
in. long and 14 in. high, and the boiler
holds 1^^ gal. The bore of the cylinder
is Ys '"■ ^nd its stroke 1% in. It was
made from an old iron window weight.
I use wood and coal to fire the boiler,
and steam can be got up in a few
minutes. — Albert H. Bennington, Park
River, N. D.

Toboggan Made of Old
Buggy Shafts

A method of making a strong tobog-
gan sled by nailing a suitable bottom

LEATHEn LOOPS

This Toboggan with Stout Runners Made from Buggy

Shafts can be Used like One of the Ordinary

Type, but Works Best on Frozen Snow

over sections cut from old buggy
shafts, as shown in the sketch, can be
adapted easily for use with poles of

about the same size. They can be
steamed and bent at the ends and the
construction otherwise made as shown.
The shafts were cut to the length indi-
cated, the curved front end being
sawed ofi'. The bottom was carried up
around the curved rear end, and a
strong bracing strip was bolted across
them. One-half-inch rope with leather
loops provided handholds, and was also
used as a brace at each side of the front
of the sled. Twisted wire may also be
used for this purpose. Cushions of the
usual type can easily be made for the
toboggan.

Bicycles Driven as Three-Wheel
Tandem after Breakdown

On a bicycle trip, when about five
miles from town, the front axle of my
partner's bicycle broke, and as neither
of us wanted to walk, we had to find
some way of getting us both home.

When the Front Wheel of One of the Bicycles Broke

Down, They were Rigged into a Tandem, and a

Distance of Five Miles to Town was Covered

We removed the front wheel from one
of the bicycles, and set the front fork
on the rear axle of the undamaged ma-
chine, as shown in the sketch. The
axle was just long enough so that the
sides of the fork could be bolted se-
curely. By careful riding we made the
distance to town with only the slight
inconvenience of my partner having to
carry the extra wheel on his back. — •
J. F. G., Mountain Grove, I\Io.

CDo not touch the inner surface of a
tent or shelter in the rain, as the water
will drip from the spot touched.

411

Test Exposures for Bromide
Enlargements

To avoid expensixe waste of paper
in making large bromide enlargements
the following device is useful: Cut an
oblong sheet of stiff cardboard, 5i/4
I)}- 4 in., with a central opening, meas-
uring 3% by 1^2 in. Along the lower
edge of the central opening mark off
five spaces of % in. each, and number
them from 1 to 5. Glue a strip of card-
board, 1 in. wide, at the top and the
bottom of the oblong, on the back.
Now glue a second strip of cardl^oard
over each of those just attached, mak-
ing the second strips slightly wider to
form grooves similar to those in a slid-
iiig-top box.

Cut a piece of cardboard, wide
enough to slide easily in these grooves,
and about T in. long. In the center of
it, cut an opening, l^/o in. long and %
in. wide, with the longer dimension
extending across the strip. By insert-
ing this slide into the grooves, the
opening in it may be shifted to cor-
respond to any of the five %-in. indi-
cations at the lower edge of the opening
in the oblong frame.

Focus the enlargement on the easel
and put the cap on the lens. Then pin
a lV2-in. strip of bromide paper where
a good range of detail will fall upon it.
Pin the oblong card over the bromide
strip and make five successive expo-
sures, of increasing duration, by slid-
ing -the strip so that its opening is
opposite the number indications on the
oblong. Note the particulars of expo-
sure at the time and later develop the
strip of bromide paper. Suppose the
exposures were of 8, 16, 24, 32, and 40
seconds' duration, and upon develop-
ment it was found that the first and
second exposures were much underex-
posed and that the fifth was over-
exposed ; the third and fourth being
only slightly under and overexposed,
respectively. Then the mean of these
two, that IS 34 plus 32 divided by 2,
or 28 seconds, will be approximately
the correct exposure. The use of this
device wdl effect a considerable saving.
— H. J. Gray, Lewes, Sussex, England.

Scale on Vaulting Pole Indicates
Points of Grip

Unnecessary delay in running off
the pole-vaulting events at athletic

meets is caused
by the repeated
testing of vault-
ers for the proper
height at which
to grip the vault-
ing pole. This
was readily over-
come by marking
intervals of 1 ft.
on the upper end
of the vaulting
poles. Vaulters
judge the proper
height once and
thereafter may
easily take the
same grip with the aid of the indica-
tions on the pole. — A. B. Wegener,
Madison, N. J.

Current of Canal Raises Irrigation
Water

The current of a canal was utilized
to raise water for irrigation purposes,
and other uses, by means of the home-
made device shown in the illustration.
A large-size buggy wheel was set on
an old axle, and extensions were fixed
to eight of the spokes. Paddles, 9 by
18 in. in size, were secured to the ex-
tensions, and imiform-size tin cans
were fixed to the paddles, as shown.
The current revolved the wheel, carry-

412

ing the loaded buckets upward, and the
water was thus poured from them into
a wide trough braced on the platform.

The Current of the Canal Causes the Wheel to Revolve,
Carrying the Water to the Trough

A flume led the water to the irrigation
ditches, and pipes were used to conduct
some of it to the ranch house for gen-
eral purposes. When the water is not
desired for useful purposes the trough
is withdrawn and the water drops into
the canal. — ^Joseph Gray, Heber, Calif.

Protecting an Air Pump against
Denting

The brass cylinders of many tire
pumps are made of thin metal, and a

S'^r^^T?)

CM UJ

Denting of Tire Pumps is Prevented by the Use of
a Case Like That Shown

slight blow may dent them. Such in-
juries interfere with the action of the

plunger, making the pump almost use-
less. A case which will afford protec-
tion to the pump is shown in the
sketch. It was made of two strips of
wood cored out on the inner sides to
fit the pump and provided with small
hinges and hooks, to lock it into place.

the tip as indi-

A Feather as an X-Ray Lens

The outline of the bones in the
hand may be seen by holding it
before a strong light and looking
through a lens made of a piece cut
from the tip of a feather. The sketch
shows such a lens, which is mounted
in a small piece of cardboard that may
])e carried in the pocket, and which
affords diversion wherever exhibited.

The device is made as follows : Pro-
cure a soft white feather from a
fowl, and cut ofif
cated in the up-
per sketch. Cut
a piece of card-
board, about 2
in. wide and G in.
long. Fold it to
form a folder, 3
in. long, and cut
a hole, 1/4 in-
in diameter,
through both parts of it. Glue the tip
of the feather between the folder at
the hole, taking care that the fibers lie
flat and that no rib is exposed. Glue
the edges of the folder, and the device
is ready for use. Hold the hand, or
other object, to be examined about 15
in. from the lens, and place the latter
close to the eye. Looking through
the hole toward an electric, or other
strong, light, it will be observed that
the bones of the hand, for example,
may be seen clearly. They will be out-
lined with a band of varicolored light.
A frosted globe is better than one
which exposes a filament. — Leander L.
Droesch, Chickasaw, Ohio.

CA safety-razor blade, fitted into a
wooden handle, provides a convenient
tool for ripping seams and cutting
cardboard.

413

Guard Saves Wear on Vest

Bookkeepers and others who work
close to a desk nearly all day find that
unusual wear results on the front of
the vest, forcing them to discard their
suits sooner than would otherwise be
necessary. By providing a strip of
cloth of a color to match the goods of
which the suit is made and buttoning it
across the front of the vest from the
lower to the upper button this wear is
prevented. — J. A. McGrath, Hancock,
Michigan.

Bilge Water Siphoned Through
Water-jacket Outlet

The sketch shows a simple method
of removing the bilge water from a mo-
torboat automatically while the engine
is in operation. A small pipe is fitted
into the outlet from the water jacket,
as shown at A, and extended to the
bottom of the boat where the bilge
water accumulates. A sack is fixed
over the end of the pipe to prevent
particles of dirt from entering the pipe.
The water passing out of the water-
jacket outlet causes a siphoning action
in the small pipe, and the bilge water
is drawn up and passes out of the
larger outlet. At the left, in dotted
outline, is shown a method of remov-
ing the bilge water by permitting it to
be drawn up into the pump which sup-
plies the water to the water jacket.

^ C93

The Small Pipe Fixed to the Water-jacket Outlet Siphons
the Bilge Water from the Bottom of theMotorboat

This method is sometimes used, but is
satisfactory only when the bilge water
can be kept clean, which is difficult.
—Francis B. Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.

A Hinged Window Box

A window box arranged to rest in a
hinged bracket on the outside of a win-
dow, as shown in the sketch, has ad-

The Flower Box is Arranged to Swing Away from
the Window so That It will Not Be in the Way

vantages over the, usual method of fix-
ing the box permanently. The bo.x is
separate from the supporting frame and
may be removed from it. The frame
is attached to the window casing by
means of T-hinges and is strongly sup-
ported by a bracket. When it is desired
to clean the window, the device may be
swung around and out of the way.
This feature is also desirable when it
is raining, for the flowers in the box
may be watered conveniently in this
way. — L. J. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.

Denatured Alcohol to Start Gasoline
Stove

Considerable smoke and dirt is
caused by the burning of gasoline used
to generate gas in starting a gasoline
stove. This may be eliminated by
keeping an oilcan filled with denatured
alcohol convenient to the stove, and
filling the starting pan with alcohol in-
stead of gasoline. The spout of the oil-
can is also :onvenient in pouring only
a small quantity into the pan. — Spen-
cer A. Pease, Chicago, 111.

CA strip of adhesive tape, fixed to the
lower side of a straightedge used for
cuttmg glass, will prevent it slipping.

414

Playing-Card Holder

While disabled with a broken arm
and being anxious to play cards for di-
version, I was at
a loss to hold my
"hand." I soon
devised the card
holder shown in
the sketch, and
found no diffi-
culty keeping in
the game. It is made of a strip of
wood provided with a groove near the
front edge, into which the cards are
inserted. — ^W. E. Thomae, Milwaukee,
Wisconsin.

Cocoanut-Shell Trays

Trays for holding matches, or other
articles, may be made of cocoanut
shells by cutting
them to appro-
priate sizes and
smoothing the
surface to a pol-
ish. The tray
shown in the
sketch was made in this manner, as
were a number of match trays which
were fitted with small sheet-metal
dishes. The outside of the shell is first
scraped as smooth as possible, sand-
papered, and then oil-polished, produc-
ing a beautiful finish. — John F. Long,
Springfield, Mo.

Nail Carrier Made of Cans

Four ordinary tin cans, fastened to
a wooden block as shown in the illus-
tration, make a
serviceable and
practical carrier
for nails, staples,
or similar mate-
rials, used in
making repairs
on the farm or in
the shop. The
tops of the cans are cut out carefully
and the edges smoothed oflf so as not
to injure the hand in removing nails
from them. The tops are cut to the

shape shown, as attached to the block,
and provided with a handle, making it
convenient to carry the contrivance.
If cans are used having covers which
may be pried olif, the central block
should be extended and the handle
nailed directly to it. — Dale R. Van
Horn, North Loup, Neb.

Stopping Rattle in Motorcycle Stand

Annoyance while traveling over
rough roads by the rattling of the rear
stand on a mo-
torcycle may be
overcome by
taping the part
of the brace
which hooks into
a catch at the
end of the rear
mud guard. The
sketch shows a
view of the lower portion of the rear
wheel with the stand raised and in
place in the catch.

Novel Covered Box for Index Trays

The box shown in the sketch is
novel in that it provides a nonsliding
cover with a
minimum of
wood for the
construction and
the use of no ex-
tra space for the
lid. Where in-
dex, or other,
boxes must be
provided in con-
siderable num-
bers, or stored
in a limited space, the saving will be
worth while. Index cards, or other
material, may fill the box to its upper
level without hindering the availability
of the cover. The small portions at-
tached to the cover are cut from the
side and end pieces. — DeWitt C. Ram-
say, Bridgeport, Conn.

CSmall parts may be soldered conve-
niently by holding them with a clip
made of a piece of clock spring.

415

A Simple Barometer

A barometer that will indicate
weather changes with reasonable accu-
racy may be made of two bottles. A
milk bottle nearly filled with water is
used as the container and a smaller
bottle fitting- snugly into the top is in-
verted in the mouth of the milk bottle.
The mouth of the inverted bottle
should extend about an inch below the
surface of the water. Weather changes
will cause the water to rise and fall in
the neck of the inverted bottle.

Removable Posts for Tennis Court

It is sometimes desirable to have
tennis-court posts arranged to be eas-
ily removed from the lawn or the court
when the grass is being mowed, or
during the winter. The method of fi.x-
ing the posts in the ground, as shown
in the sketch, makes it convenient to
remove the posts and still gives the
necessary stability. A square wooden
box, tarred to resist the moisture, is
placed in the ground, and the post is
fitted into it. The upper end of the bo.x
is level with the surface, and when the
post is removed a wooden block is
fitted into the opening. Removal of

The Post may be Removed for Mowing the Court
or When Not in Use

the posts permits the mowing of the
grass close to them and leaves the
place free from obstructions when the
court is not in use. — Edward R. Smith,
Walla Walla, Wash.

Lightning Switch for Wireless Aerials

Amateur wireless operators often
cannot afford to buy a lightning switch
such as is required to ground the aerial

Discarded Copper Half-Tone Plates and a Piece of

Marble were Used in Making This Lightning

Switch for Wireless Aerials

when not in use. The sketch shows
such a device, which was made of a
marble slab fitted with copper strips
cut from discarded half-tone plates.
The base was smoothed and polished
to the size indicated, 4 in. wide and 9
in. long. The upper edges were bev-
eled ofif, and holes were drilled near the
ends through which bolts were passed
to fasten the small brackets supporting
the crossbar.

The copper pieces were made as fol-
lows : The plates of /i(rin. copper were
cut into strips, iVi in. wide. Two were
made 8 in. long; four, 3 in. long, and
four, % in. long. The 8-in. strips were
fastened together with small bolts and
a hole was drilled through one end of
the joined pieces to fit the bolt which
forms the pivot for the switch. The
3-in. strips were bent to form a %-in.
angle, through which holes were bored
for fastening to the base. The %-in.
strips were clamped between the
brackets at their lower ends to pro-
vide a slot for the crossbar. The bolts,
by which the brackets were clamped
together, were provided with binding
nuts to which the wires were con-
nected. A handle might be fixed to the
crossbar, but this is not essential.

416

Stenciling with Photographic Films

Photographic films make excellent
material from which to cut stencils for
use in marking show cards, placards,

Serviceable Stencils may be Cut from Photographic

Films, and Afford a Practical Means of Making

Signs and Other Forms

etc., as well as for other uses to which
stencils are put. Pictures, or other de-
signs to be stenciled, may be pasted to
the film and the outline cut, care being
taken that the design is adapted for
stenciling. This is important, since
frequently binding strips must be left
in the design in order to make it pos-
sible to cut a satisfactory stencil from
it. The films are used with the rough
side down, to prevent them from slip-
ping. A variety of subjects for stencil
design may be adapted from pictures
clipped from publications or other
sources. — Robert Smith, New West-
minster, B. C, Canada.

the reader will connect one terminal of
a 60-watt lamp with the gas main or to
the gas stove and then touch the other
terminal successively with each of the
two ends of the live wires it will be
found that the lamp will light up with
one terminal but not with the other,
for the reason that one side of the cir-
cuit is usually grounded at most elec-
tric-light plants as a precaution against
lightning.

All that is necessary to get a spark
is tc provide a suitable resistance coil
with an iron core, so that the fuse will
not be blown and to secure sufficient
inductance to get a hot spark. The
writer uses an ordinary 5i)-ohm tele-
phone induction coil, in which the pri-
mary and secondary are placed in series
by the diagonal connection indicated in
the sketch. Almost any coil or electro-
magnet of 25-ohm resistance, or more,
connected in a circuit will prove safe
and give a hot spark. Place the coil
in some out-of-the-way corner, and run
one strand of the usual flexible cord
to the handle, which should be hung at
some convenient point at the right-
hand side of the stove. Let the handle
itself be long enough so that there will
be no tendency to catch hold of the
metal point. Run the flexible cord
through the center and out at the lower
end, into which a wire nail with the
head removed is driven. Solder the
wire to the nail, and the lighter is ready.
For lighting Bunsen burners, and
other fixtures using rubber tubing, a
small wire may be run down the center
of the tubing so as to ground the

A Gas-Stove Lighter

For lighting the gas stove, matches
are not only untidy but inconvenient.
In lieu thereof I use a simple afifair
consisting of a wood handle with a
large nail set in the end, with which it
is only necessary to touch the burner
in order to start a flame. There is
nothing to wear out and no parts to
renew. Furthermore this gas lighter
•jses only one wire — a fact that is apt
to strike a person as being rather un-
usual on first thought. However, if

Single Contact Point for Making a Spark to Light
a .Cas-Stove Burner or Tip

burner, or else a small surface on the
workbench may be covered with tin
and this grounded, so that it is only
necessary to set the burner thereon to
get a light. — John D. Adams, Phoenix,
Arizona.

417

To Stop Rattling of Windows

Annoyance from the rattling of win-
dows may be overcome by attaching a
small block to the side of the window
casing so that it will engage the sash
and hold it firmly. The block should
be of ^2-in. wood, about 3 in. long, 1 in.
wide, and have one end rounded off. A
screw is fixed through the block near
the rounded end and driven into the
window casing at such a point that
when the block is turned upward on
its pivot the rounded end will act like
a cam and force the sash firmly against
its grooves.

Practical Bracket for Garden Hose

Care in the storage of a garden hose
will pay the owner in the longer life

of it, and the'

homemade
bracket shown in
the sketch sug-
gests a conven-
ient method of
caring for the
hose. A portion
of a barrel was
sawed oft at one
of the hoops,
and after rein-
forcing it by
nailing the hoops
and inserting

shelves, it was nailed to the wall. The
hose may be coiled over it in shape to
be easily carried to the lawn or garden,
for use. The shelves provide space
for an oilcan for the lawn mower, and
other accessories.

Making Filing Envelopes Quickly

Folders in which large cards, calen-
dars, posters, etc., are commonly
mailed may be utilized to make con-
venient filing cases. Envelopes of the
type shown in the sketch, with leather-
board and cord fasteners for holding
the flaps together, may be cut to a
uniform size or used in any smaller size
desired, and, by gluing the flaps A
and B, will provide serviceable con-

tainers. Small tools or other objects
likely to injure a single-thickness

Folders Like That in Figure 1 may be Glued to Form

Envelopes, Figure 2, or Cut Down to the Size Shown

in Figure 3, for Use in Combination, Figure 4

folder, or drop out of it, may be stored
in double envelopes made in this way.

Yardstick on Tool Rack

I have derived considerable satis-
faction from the use of a yardstick fit-
ted above my workbench. A plug of
brass, having a center-punch mark,
was inserted at the zero point on the
yardstick. This is convenient in set-
ting dividers and other instruments.
Below the plug was fixed a small brass
angle, set so that its inner face was at
the zero point. This is useful in meas-

The Brass Plug and Angle Are Convenient Additions

to the Yardstick, Which Forms the Front

of the Tool Rack

uring pieces from a finished end. If
the end of the yardstick is at the zero
point it is necessary to attach a small
extension to take the brass plug. — V.
A. Rettich, Hollis, N. Y.

418

Bicycle Runner for Winter Use

A bicycle may be used with satis-
factory results in winter by arranging
a runner under the front wheel, which
is lashed to the
fork as indicated
in the sketch.
The mudguard
is used as a run-
ner by releasing
it and dropping

The Mudguard is Fastened to the Rim of the Wheel
and Acts as a Runner over Ice and Snow

it to the position shown. It is then
tied securely to the rim of the wheel
and the wheel is tied at the top to the
fork. This idea may be adapted by
providing a special runner of sheet
metal, making it unnecessary to wear
the mudguard. — C. H. ?iIcCaslin, Port-
land, Ore.

Homemade Snowshoe Toe Clips

The uppers from a pair of worn-out
shoes may be made into a serviceable
set of toe clips for snowshoes by cut-

The Uppers of an Old

Pair of Shoes were Used

to Make a Set of Toe

Clips for Snowshoes

ting them ofif. as shown in the sketch,
and fitting them to the lacing of the
snowshoes. The clip is fastened in
place by passing the tying .strap

through slots in the former, under the
lacing of the snowshoe, and then
around the ankle in the usual manner
of fastening. — Richard F. Lufkiri, Dor-
chester, Mass.

Mounting Tracing-Cloth Drawings on
Muslin

Tracings mounted on muslin will
give long wear and are more satisfac-
tory in handling than the unmounted
drawings. The method of mounting
them is as follows : Stretch a piece
of starched muslin, slightly larger
than the drawing, on a flat, smooth
board, fastening it with tacks. Coat
the back of the tracing with a good
varnish, and place it, face down, on a
flat surface so that it may partly dry
and become tacky, which usually
takes two hours. Place the tracing
upon the stretched muslin, varnished
side down, and place a smooth sheet
of wrapping paper over it. Using a
moderately warm flatiron, and begin-
ning at the center of the tracing, iron
toward the edges, applying moderate
pressure. To remove the tracing from
the cloth, it is necessary to warm the
cloth with the iron and strip the trac-
ing and cloth apart gradually. — John
\\'. Grantland, Cincinnati, Ohio.

Sandpapering Square Edges on Small
Machine Bases

The woodwork of small electrical
or experimental machines and devices
often detracts from the workmanship
because proper care is not taken in fin-
ishing the edges. To smooth oft the
ends of a small baseboard squarely,
proceed as follows : Square up a piece
of 2 by 4-in. stock, 1 ft. long; place a
flat sheet of sandpaper on the bench
and set the 1-ft. block on top of it, hold-
ing it in place with the left hand. Hold
the piece to be squared up firmly
against the block and rub it on the
sandpaper. A square edge of smooth
finish will result. The edges should,
of course, be planed as smoothly as pos-
sible before sanding in this way. —
John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.

410

Enlarged Lantern Pictures as Guides
for Scenic Painting

Scenery for a iiome-talent theatrical
performance was required, and since
the services of an expert in that line
were not available, an interest-
ing method of obtaining satis-
factory sketches for the figures
and other objects in the back-
ground was devised. Colored
lantern slides of scenes suitable
for the purpose were selected
and projected upon the canvas
to be painted, as shown in the
illustration. The outlines were '^'"'^by
drawn around the projected
figures, making them as accurate as
the original, and far better than would
have been possible otherwise by an
amateur painter. The colors were
applied following the original model,
with satisfactory results. By the use

of various portions of slides, it was
possible to place figures and outdoor
effects on the background which was
obtained from the first slide used. A
factor which must be considered in
using this method is that the picture

for an Amateur Theatrical Performance was Made
Painting Outlines Projected from a Lantern

on the canvas will be reversed as to
right and left positions compared with
the original, if a direct-reflection pro-
jector of the type used with post cards
is employed. — Thomas R. Milligan,
Fort Worth, Texas.

Three-Caster Truck for Moving Crates
and Furniture

A convenient truck for handling
heavy objects, especially in the home
where commer-
cial devices for
this purpose are
not available, is
shown in the
illustration. It
consists of a
frame built up
of three li/4 by 3
by 14-in. strips,
fixed to a disk,
% by 12 in. in
size. Revolving
casters are

mounted under the ends of the arms,
giving great freedom of movement in
transporting loads. The three-caster
arrangement is better than the use of
four casters, because it accommodates
itself to irregularities in the floor. —
Armydas E. Sturdivant, Muncie, Ind.

Inserting or Correcting on Typewritten
Bound Sheets

It is frequently necessary that type-
written insertions or corrections be
made in papers which have been typed
and bound, usually by rivets along the
top edge. It is difficult to remove the
rivets and replace them satisfactorily.
To make such insertions, feed a blank
sheet of paper into the typewriter until
its feeding edge is even with the upper
edge of the guide fingers. Then insert
the bottom edge of the sheet on which
the correction is to be made, under-
neath the sheet already in the machine :
reverse-feed the sheet to be corrected
into the typewriter. Corrections may
then be made in the usual manner. — A.
J. Cook, Pittsburgh, Pa.

CThe burner of an acetylene bicycle
lamp, fitted to an ordinary gas jet, will
produce a very hot flame.

Tire Pump Made of Gas Piping

A tire pump actuated by the explo-
sions in the cylinder of an automobile
engine, and made of materials easily
obtainable, is shown in detail in the
illustration. A section of iron pipe of
a diameter to fit one of the ports, and
about 4 in. long, as shown in Fig. 2,

420

is provided with a reducer, a tee, and
two caps. The inside of the pipe is
turned up true in a lathe and fitted
with a piston, the head for which is

Automobile Tires may be
Inflated Quickly by the Use
of This Homemade Pump

shown in Fig. 1. The head is built up
of a wooden drum, washers, and
leather packing disks. The washers
should be slightly smaller in diameter
than the chamber, and the leather disks
make it air-tight.

The tee is provided with two vah'es,
as shown in the detail sectional view.
Fig. 3, the upper ball valve retaining
the pressure in the pipe line, and the
other valve admitting air above the
piston. The ball valve has a seat of
lead, and a ribbed fitting is fixed to the
pipe cap above it. to provide a fasten-
ing for the hose. The cap of the other
valve is fitted with a spring, adjustable
on a threaded pin.

A light spring fixed to the upper side
of the piston, as shown in Fig. 2, forces
the piston back to its lower position
after the force of the explosion in the
cylinder has acted upon it. The cylin-
der of the pump should be oiled, and
a reinforced rubber hose should be
used to conduct the air under pressure
to the tire.

The operation is simple : The initial
stroke of the engine cylinder draws
the piston down, bringing in a charge

of air from the valve ports at the side
of the tee; the following compression
and explosion strokes drive it back,
forcing the air out of the ball valve^
as the other valve closes on the
upstroke of the piston. A large tire
may be pumped up with this device in
from five to ten minutes.

Aid in Ruling Uniform Cards or Sheets

When a number of cards or sheets
are to be ruled with either horizontal
or vertical divisions, the following
method will be found a timesaver:
Rule one of the cards as a sample. Place
it on the drawing board with its lower
edge set against two thumb tacks
driven part way in. Rule extensions of
the lines on the card to a sheet of
paper fastened to the board under the
card. Set a third thumb tack at
the right edge of the card as a guide.
By placing the cards to be ruled against
the three thumb tacks in the position
of the original card, the rulings may be
made quickly with the marks on the
paper backing as guides. — W. P. Shaw,
Stratford, Can.

Tinned Staples for Bell-Circuit
Wiring

Inexpensive and practical staples for
binding wires used in bell circuits, or
for similar purposes, may be made
from a strip of tinned sheet metal,
about 1/2 in- wide. The strip is cut on
the sides, as indicated in the sketch,
and the fNquares are broken oflf as
needed. They may be bent quickly to
the shape shown, and are used by plac-
ing them over the wire and driving the

The Strip is Cut into Squares Which are Folded and
Driven into the Support, Binding the Wire

points into the wall or other support.
If properly made, they will not injure
the covering of the wire and are more
satisfactory than wire staples.

421

Asbestos Table Mats Reinforced with
Wire Netting

Ordinarily heavy pieces of sheet
asbestos are used for the mats placed
under hot dishes on the dining table.
These are easily broken if bent, and a
simple method of overcoming- this
breakage is to make mats as follows :
Cut two pieces of sheet asbestos, each
about one-half the thickness of that
usually used, one having about % in.
around the edge which may be used
as a binder in pasting the sheets
together. Cut notches into this edge,
at intervals of about 2 in., and insert a
disk of wire window screening between
the pieces of asbestos. Turn the edges
of the larger piece over and paste in
place.

Device for Corrugating Strips

Having a sheet-metal cog rail to
make for the adjusting mechanism of
a n enlarging

screen, I built a
cog-forming de-
vice as shown in
the sketch. A
block of wood
served as the
base, and two
levers with
hinges were
fixed to one end
of it. Two pieces
of hardwood were grooved at their
ends as shown in the smaller sketch,
to fit over three tenpenny nails, A, held
in place on the block by staples. Four
small nails, B, were set into the block,
as shown, to act as guides for the strip
of metal, which was fed between the
forming blocks and the nails on the
base. By pressing down on the hinge
levers, the strip was formed into cor-
rugations or teeth. In order to make
the teeth uniform it was necessary to
guide the forming pieces by having one
of the cogs fit over the first nail. The
strip thus formed was fixe.d to a
wooden piece and served as a cog rail.
— R. E. Henderson. Walla Walla,
W^ashington.

Birch-Bark Leggings Made in the
Woods

An excellent pair of leggings for use
in brush and forest land can be made
in a few minutes
from birch bark
cut in the woods.
Select a suitable
tree, about 6 or
8 in. in diameter,
and cut into the
heavy bark to
obtain two
rolls around the
circumference of
the tree, taking
care not to cut
deep enough to
injure it. Fit
these sections
around the legs
leaving 6-in. por-
tions overlapping. Trim the bark to
the proper shape and soak it in water
to soften the grain. Place the bark
close to the fire until it curls. The leg-
gings are then readv for use.

Stretcher for Drying Small Fur Hides

Small hides should be dried over a
stretcher to give the best results, and
the device
shown in the
sketch will be
found useful for
this purpose. It
is made of two
strips of l.'o-in.
wood, hinged at
the pointed end.
Small holes are
drilled into the
upper surface at
the other ends
and adjustment
is made by
means of a wire bent at the ends and
inserted in the holes.- — Elmer Tetzlaflf,
East DePere, Wis.

CWire mesh is useful for drawer bot-
toms in tool cases where dirt is likely
to accumulate.

433

Reel for Use with Seed-Planting Guide
String

Many gardeners derive as much
pleasure from the orderly arrangement
of the plants in their "farms" as from

SMAa TINS

This Reel Aids in

Setting Out Plants

in Rows

any other feature of this home diver-
sion, and I am one of them. In order
to facilitate the planting I made a reel
like that shown in the sketch. The
frame is of wood, and the reel is made
of a piece of broomstick to which two
small tins, or box covers, are nailed.
A wire handle made of a long nail is
fitted to one end, and a shoulder hook
is used as a stop for the handle when
it is desired to check the line. A screw
eye driven into the back of the frame
holds it at various heights on the stake.
This device is far superior to the com-
mon use of two stakes for the planting
cord.— James M. Kane, Doylestown,
Pennsylvania.

Kinks on the Care of Umbrellas

Deriving long use from an umbrella
depends in part on proper selection,
care of the cloth and frame, and pre-
cautions against loss or theft. A silk
cover is desirable to shed rain, and a
cotton one for a sunshade. The hot
sun dries out the silk and heats the
metal ribs under it, quickly destroying
it. If silk is used for sun protection,
wet the cover occasionally. Always

set an umbrella to dry, handle down,
if there is not space to dry it open.

A broad ribbon loop on the handle
of a woman's umbrella permits carry-
ing it on the wrist and prevents for-
getting it. An umbrella with a remov-
able handle can be folded into a suit-
case, and putting the handle in the
pocket when leaving the umbrella in
any public place makes it less liable to
theft. An umbrella should bear the
name and address of the owner.

A Bell-Ringing Mail Box

The annoyance of watching for the
arrival of the mailman was overcome
by the fitting of an electrical
alarm to the mail box, as
shown in the sketch.
A strip of metal,
A, was pivoted in
the box and
weighted on one
end. A bell, B,
was wired to dry
cells in the box
below the con-
tainer for the
mail. When the
mail is dropped
in the box the end A is
forced down, forming an
electrical contact and com-
pleting the circuit from the
cells C through the wire D and
back through the wire E. When the
mail is removed the weight raises the
metal strip. — James E. Noble, Ports-
mouth, Canada.

A Simple Polarity Indicator

An ordinary compass, fitted flush in
a wooden frame as shown in the sketch,
forms the basis for the polarity indi-
cator described. The N, or north, and
S, or south, points of the compass
should run lengthwise with the frame,
with the former on the end farthest
from the binding posts, C and D. Five
turns of No. 18 gauge, or any similar,
wire are wound lengthwise around the
frame and over the compass. The ends
of the wires terminate at the two bind-

423

ing posts. Begin at C and wind toward
the compass, binding the wire at D.

If the two ends of a wire are free,
and it is desired to know whether there
is any current present, and if so, its
polarity, fasten one wire to the post C
and the other to D. Before connect-
ing the wires, hold the compass and
frame in such a way that the needle is
over the N point on the compass dial.
If, after the wires are connected, the
needle moves, there is a current flow-
ing. If the needle is deflected toward
the east, the neg-
ative wire is on
C ; if it is deflect-
ed toward the
west, the posi-
tive wire is on C.
W^hen it is de-
sired to ascer-
tain the polarity
of a wire, which is covered by a
floor, ceiling, or molding, hold the
compass as explained, and either di-
rectly above or below the wire. Then
turn on the current. If the instrument
is above the wire, the wire extending
parallel with it north and south, and
the needle is deflected toward the west,
the current is flowing from the north
to the south end of the wire. If the
wire runs east and west and the needle
is deflected to the west, the current is
running from west to east.

If the wire runs on a diagonal be-
tween the directions mentioned, and
the needle is deflected toward the west,
the current is flowing from the quad-
rant between N and W on the compass
dial toward the quadrant between S
and K. If the instrument is held over
the wire and the needle is deflected to-
ward E. the polarity is the opposite
to that last indicated. Should the in-
strument be held below the wire, if
the needle goes toward W, it is equiva-
lent to going toward E when above the
wire. — H. Sterling Parker, Brooklyn,
New York.

Flash Light Used as a Uedroom Night
Light

To save groping about in the dark
for my flash light when suddenly
awakened in the
night, I devised
the arrangement
shown in the
sketch and by
which a "flash"
is used as a wall
night light, with-
out lessening its
common uses.
The holder B
and the board A
are of wood, and
into the box is
fitted a metal clip, C, to hold the light.
A round hole of proper size is cut
through the top of the box and the
light set through it so that the bottom
end rests in the clip, the tin ferrule
pressing against it firmly. A light
spring, D, makes contact with the up-
per terminal of the push switch with-
out closing it. The apparatus is
fastened to the wall, and insulated
wires, soldered, one to the clip C, and
the other to the spring D, are connected
to a switch placed in a convenient
position. This switch replaces that on
the light. The ceiling serves to reflect
and distribute the light rays. — B. L.
Dobbins, Harwich, Mass.

-— R^,

; ■ ^^\'

Clf the white of an egg is used to seal
an envelope which has no mucilage on
the flap, it cannot be opened by steam-
ing it.

Pie-Plate Gas Heater

A satisfactory gas heater to take the
chill out of the air in a small room by
fitting a pie plate
over a gas burn-
er was made by
me, as shown in
the sketch. The
wires which for-
merly held the
glass shade were
fitted into holes
punched in the rim of the plate. It
could thus be removed quickly when
not needed and the glass shade put
back in place. — Morris Tinsky, Chi-
cago, Illinois.

434

A Folding Table with Split-Bamboo
Tray for Top

A folding table frame, designed as a
support for a circular split-bamboo
tray, is shown in the photographs re-
produced and
detailed in the
working draw-
ing. It is a serv-
iceable and inex-
pensive piece of
furniture, and
can be con-
structed readily
by the home me-
chanic. As the
trays vary in
size, the frame
must be made to
c o rrespond,
those from 24 to
28 in. in diam-
eter being satis-
factory. The
tray may be
made by the am-
l)itious crafts-
m an or pur-
chased at stores dealing in Oriental
goods. A wooden top may, of course,
be substituted. The frame, is made

This Tray Table Is Readily Port-
able, and Useful in the House and
on the porch or Lawn

■-iHh-

prefe.rably of soft wood. The follow-
ing finished pieces are required for a
24-in. tray: 4 legs, Yg by 3 by 30 in. ; 4

crosspieces, 1 by 2 by 25 in. Mortise
the legs to the ends of the crosspieces,
one set of mortises being % in. below
the other. Assemble the parts and fas-
ten the joints with glue and 2-in. flat-
head screws, coimtersunk.

Adjust the crosspieces of each set so
that their centers match, and fasten
them in this position with screws, from
the under side. The two parts of the
frame revolve on them when the table
is "knocked down." On the ends of
the lower crosspieces of each set, fas-
ten blocks to level the support for the
tray. Finish the frame to harmonize
with the furniture of -the room. Con-
ceal the screw heads under bands of
hammered or oxidized copper, fas-
tened with copper or brass pins. A
second tray may be placed on the
lower crosspieces. — F. E. Tuck, Ne-
\-ada Citv, Calif.

Small Desk Lamp Supported by
Paper Weight

Those who wish a small desk light
that may be pushed back out of the
way in the daytime, will find the accom-
panying sketch of interest. When in
use on a roll-top desk, the lamp is
placed on top near the edge, so that the
bulb overhangs. A 25-watt lamp will
light the bed of the desk, and the small
metal shade is so placed that no part of
the bulb is visible to the eye of the
worker. By providing a suitable base,
the lamp may be adapted to other uses.
A stock paper
weight, about 2
in. in diameter
and covered with
green felt, was
used as a base.
An ordinary
drop-cord socket
is provided, and
to one side of

the top cap a strip of brass, Y^r, by ^/^
in., is soldered. A hole is drilled near
the end of this strip so that the screw
which holds the knob will also hold the
socket. Connect the flexible cord in
the usual manner.

The shade is made of sheet metal,

42"

bent in the form of a cone, having the
front shorter than the opposite edge.
Make a sketch of the bulb, and deter-
mine the lengths of the two sides A
and B, and then draw two concentric
circles of corresponding radii on paper,
as indicated in the small diagram. The
proper cur\-e for the shade will then lie
between these two circles. Cut a paper
pattern, and form it into a cone. After
the proper shape is determined, mark
it on the metal, cut it to shape, and
solder it. A small spring clip, C, en-
gages the tip of the bulb ; the back of
the shade is held by a piece of spring
wire, D. It is easy to spring the shade
off in replacing the bulb. The outside
of the shade should be enameled an
olive-green. — John D. Adams, Phoenix,
Arizona.

Device Frightens Flies at Screen Door

An eiifective means of frightening
flies away from a screen door may be
made from a spring curtain rod and
cotton duck. Scallops of 8-oz. duck,
6 in. long, are fastened to the pole, on
opposite sides, as shown. The ratchet
on the end of the pole is arranged so
as not to catch. A small cord is wound

WINCX5W-SHADE. POLE

The Scalloped Roller is Revolved Rapidly When the
Door is Opened, Frightening Flies

around the pole and fastened to the
screen door. The rod supports are
fixed near the top of the door frame. —
Josef H. Noyes, Paris, Tex.

Porch Swing Made from Automobile
Seat

When an obsolete type of automo-
bile was converted into a truck for

The Seat Discarded from a Rebuilt Car
was Put to Good Use

marketing purposes, a leather
stered seat, discarded, was util
an attractive and comfortable
swing. HcKjks were secured
front corners of the seat and
upper edge of the back, for the
attached to suitable supports. —
L. Ayers, Washington. D. C

•-uphol-

ized as
porch

to the
to the
chains

George

Linoleum Panels for a Homemade
Chest

A strong packing box was converted
into a useful and not unsightly chest by
covering it with panels of linoleum left
over from a job of covering a floor.
Strips, \<2 by 2 in. wide, were nailed
around the comers of the box to form
a panel on the top. sides, and ends. The
wood and the linoleum were shellacked,
and made a good appearance.

CThe lower corner of an envelope may
be used as a small funnel.

426

Camera for Bird Photography

A reasonably large image must be
obtained in photographing bird life, or
the details of plumage and identifica-

Bird Images Large Enough to Show Identification
Markings are Obtained with This Camera

tion are lost, reducing the value of the
pictures. The "gun camera" shown in
the photograph was devised for this
purpose, and with it exposures may be
made more quickly than with the tele-
photo type of camera, a feature of
great value in this class of photog-
raphy. The device consists of an or-
dinary reflecting-type camera, mounted
on a carriage for ready portability
and quick adjustment. The bellows is
supplemented with a tube, permitting
the use of lenses of upward of 30-in.
extreme focus. This gives a larger
image without loss in speed. A ^.4-'n.
image of a bird was obtained with a
71/2-in. extreme-focus lens, as against
a 2-in. image with one of 30-in. focus,
from the same position. The lens is
set near the rear end of the tube, giv-

ing a deep hood for shading the sun-
light. Lenses of an old type, known
as "Long Toms," were used. They are
inexpensive compared w-ith newer
types with iris diaphragms, and give
good results even at /i.ooo exposures. —
Arthur Farland, New Orleans, La.

Electric Fan an Aid to Heating Room

The electric fan is useful not only
for cooling the air in summer, but also
for distributing the warm air to ad-
vantage in the w^inter. An efficient
way of warming a room fairly uni-
formly is to place an electric fan near
a radiator, so that its breeze passes
through the heating coils, or near
another source of heat. The heat is
circulated around the room, instead
of being kept in a limited area. — Peter
J. i\L Ciute, Schenectady, N. Y.

Cat-and-Bells Scarecrow

A scarecrow resembling a living ani-
mal is often more efifective than other
devices, and the
cat-and-bells ar-
rangement
s h o w o in the
sketch was found
especially
so. The hide of a
cat was stretched
over a hollow
frame and sus-
pended by a cord
from a large
weather vane.
Several bells
were attached to
the cord, and
when the vane
shifts in the
wind, the move-
ment of the hide and the rattling of the
bells combine to frighten the birds. —
F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.

CA coating of five parts of coal tar,
one part gasoline, and one part japan
drier will make canvas nearly water-
tight.

A Small Hydraulic Turbine

By frank D. bell

CONSIDERABLE power and speed
can be developed under ordinary
water-supply pressure by the turbine,
or water motor, shown in the sketch
and detailed in the working drawings.
The parts are of simple construction,
and the machine may be assembled or
taken down easily. It is useful for
either belt or direct connection to elec-
trical generators, small machines, etc.,
the direct connection being preferable
for a generator. The wheel is built up
of sheet metal and provided with
curved buckets set in the saw-tooth
edge. The water is admitted through
an opening in the lower part of the
housing and passes out at the opposite
end into a suitable drain pipe. The
housing is made of two sections, the
main casting and a cover plate. Bear-
ings for the shaft are cast into the hous-
ing, which is reinforced on the back by
ribs radiating from the center.

Wooden patterns are made for the
housing, the main casting and the cover
plate being cast separately. The pat-
tern for the cover plate should provide
for the bearing lug, as shown in the
sectional detail, and for the angle form-
ing a support at the bottom. Special
attention should be given to allowance
for proper draft in making the pattern
for the main casting: that is, the edges

of the reinforcing ribs, and the sides of
the shell should be tapered slightly to
make removal from the sand conven-
ient. The advice of a patternmaker

View of the Water Turbine with the Cover Plate
Removed, Showing Inlet and Drain

will be helpful to one inexperienced in
this work, although many machine
metalworkers are familiar with the
process.

The finishing and machining of the
parts and their assembling should be
undertaken as follows : Clean the cast-
ings and file off rough parts. Smooth
the cover plate and the shell to a close

Details of a Water Turbine That will Give Considerable Power and Speed for Driving a Generator

or Small Machine

422

428

fit, and drill and tap the fastening holes
for 8-32 machine screws. Drill ^/i-in.
holes for the bearings, through the
bearing arm and 14 in. into the lug on
the cover plate. Drill and tap the two
grease-cup holes for %-in. pipe thread.
Drill the nozzle hole Yi in., and drill
and tap it for a %-in. pipe nipple.

Lay out the wheel of Yia-'m. brass,
making 24 notches in its edge. Fasten
the wheel to the ^A-in. shaft with a
flanged coupling, fixing it with a set-
screw. Bolt the flange to the wheel
with 8-32 steel bolts. "Make the buck-
ets of Ho-in- sheet brass, curved as de-
tailed, and round oiif the edges. Solder

them into place, using plenty of soldei
and making certain that the curve is set
properly. Place drops of solder on the
flange nuts to secure them. Place the
ends of the shaft on two knife-edges,
and balance the wheel by adding drops
of solder to the lighter side. This is
very important, as undue vibration
from lack of balance will wear the bear-
ings quickly.

Assemble the machine, using shellac
between the cover plate and shell.
Make connection to the water supply
with a ^/2-in. pipe. Bolt the machine
down, and do not let it run at full speed
without load.

Automatic Lock Box for Milk Bottles

Uses for an Old Toothbrush

A mousetrap spring, provided with a
suitable catch, was fitted into a box for
milk bottles, and
served to pro-
tect the milk
bottle against
theft by prowl-
ers. The box
was made large
enough to hold
several bottles,
the empty ones
in one portion
and the filled
bottles in an-
other. The bot-
tle is dropped
through an
opening in the
locked end of the
box and the
spring forces up
the catch. While
this device may
be tampered
with, it guards
eflfectively against the theft of bottles
of milk, since most of those stolen are
taken because they are easily acces-
sible.— L. F. Head, Seattle, Wash.

HOLE SIZE OF LARGE
PART OF BOTTLE

CThe oxyacetylene flame may be
used in cutting or welding steel cables,
but such welds will not sustain the
orisfinal safe load of the cable.

A discarded toothbrush, properly
cleaned so as not to be insanitary, may
be used in one or possibly more of the
following ways : to raise the nap of
white buckskin shoes, after polishing
them ; in reaching corners with shoe
polish, or in cleaning out eyelets and
corners ; cleaning typewriter keys with
benzine ; polishing small parts of metal-
work. — Joseph A. Cunningham, Phila-
delphia, Pa.

A Locking Sheath for Hunter's Knife

Having made a hunting knife and
desiring a suitable sheath for it, I de-

vised that shown in the

sketch, which has the spe-
cial feature that the guard
on the knife handle locks
in slots cut through the
sheath. Two pieces of
leather were used, one for
the back section and the
other for the shorter front
piece. The sewing at the
edges of the two sections
extends from the level of
the slots around the lower
end of the sheath. Two
slots were cut vertically
through the upper por-
tion of the sheath, which is fastened tc
the belt of the wearer, as indicated. —
George H. Flint, Harrison, Me.

429

Discarded Buggy Springs for Diving
Board

Old leaf springs obtained from a
buggy were used to give the necessary
spring to a diving board. One of the
springs was set at each side of the
board about 2i/o ft. from the fixed end,
and they were joined by a cross sup-
port of 2 by 4-in. wood, on which the
spring board rested. Straps to check
the strain on the springs from the re-
bound were provided.

Water Wheel Turns Spit over
Campfire

When a camp fire is placed near a
stream, water power may be utilized
to turn the spit in roasting meat over
the fire. The rod, on Which the roast
is suspended, should be extended, and
supported at one end, over the water.
A small paddle wheel may then be
rigged up easily on the rod.

A Detachable Chair Arm

The children in the home as well as
others can make good use of a chair
arm which may be attached quickly to
an ordinary chair. The wide arm is
clamped to the back of the chair by
means of a strip of metal fitted with
a thumbscrew, and the upright is fixed
to the arm by a hinge, making it con-

This Folding and Detachable Chair Arm Is Useful
in the Home

venient to store the device. The lower
end of the upright is fitted with a
metal angle which fits on the corner of
the chair. — J. F. Long, Springfield, Mo.

Comic Chest Expander for Play or
Stage Use

A device used in an amateur vaude-
ville sketch with good effect, and

The Performer's Chest "Swells with Pride" When
He Draws on the String by Shifting His Position

which is interesting for play purposes,
was made of a /go by 9 by 14-in. piece
of sheet spring brass, rigged as shown.
In the center, near the upper edge, a
small pulley was soldered, and at the
center of the bottom edge a small hole
was drilled. In it was fastened one
end of a 4-ft. string which ran up
through the pulley. The other end
was fastened to a strap to fit around
the leg just above the knee. At the
two upper corners of the brass sheet
two slots were cut to accommodate
similar straps, as fastenings. When the
wearer stands in a normal position the
chest is as usual, but by straightening
the body and slightly moving the
strapped leg back, the brass sheet is
bowed outwaird, giving the appearance
indicated. — Arthur L. Kaser, Soutii
Bend, Ind.

CSquare cardboard disks fastened to
the ends of a spool with thumb tacks
will prevent it from rolling.

430

Cane Made of Tubing Contains Cigars Patching Canvas Bottom of a Canoe

As a novelty in canes, a steel tube
was provided with a suitable han-
dle and used as
a container for
cigars and
matches. The
tube was fitted
with a metal cap
at its junction
with the handle
and the cigars
are inserted or
removed at this
point. The end
of the handle was bored out and also
provided with a cover, as a match
safe. The tube was enameled and var-
nished to resemble wood. — James E.
Noble, Toronto, Canada.

Key Ring Used as a Cover Fastener

The usual box-cover fastener in the
form of a staple
and hasp can be
fastened quite
securely, and
much better than
with the use of
a wood pin, by
applying a key
ring to the sta-
ple. This is to
take the place
temporarily i n
case the lock is lost or discarded. —
James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Golf Tee Made of a Shotgun Shell

Instead of making golf tees in the
usual manner I used the brass end of
a shotgun shell,
weighted with a
small iron ball
attached to a
string. The de-
vice was made as
an experiment
and proved so
useful and convenient to carry that I
continued to use it. — Edward Beasley,
Texarkana, Ark.

A patch of silk, properly applied,
makes a good repair for a hole worn
through the canvas bottom of a canoe.
Loosen the canvas for about 2 in.
around the hole and apply thick shel-
lac. Insert a piece of silk in the hole
to lap under the edges of the canvas.
Permit the shellac to dry slightly and
smooth down the patch. Protect the
joint further with white lead, smooth-
ing over the patch and painting it
when dry.

Handy Tray for Pencils and
Penholders

A piece of light cardboard, or sheet
metal, may be folded into a neat and
useful holder for
pens, pencils,
etc., on the desk
or drafting table.
In the latter case
a piece of stiff
drawing paper,
folded into V-grooves and tacked to
the board, is convenient. For use on a
finished surface the folded piece
should be pasted on cardboard or
otherwise fastened down. — William
Robert, Springfield, Mass.

Removing Sag from Couch Spring

A couch spring of the type shown in
the sketch sagged considerably, mak-
ing it ineft'ective.
The sag was
taken up by
bending the sec-
tions of wire
with a monkey
wrench, so that
the entire spring
was stiffened almost as satisfactorily
as when new. Care must be taken
that the wires are bent uniformly so
that the strain is evenlv distributed.

CAn eggshell may be balanced on the
edge of a knife if the egg is "blown,"
and then partly filled with sand.

431

An Effective Combination Lock Easily Made

By E. F. strong

THE combination lock described
has been used for years on lock-
ers and letter boxes in a large public
building. The details of a lock with
three disks are given, and in Fig. 4 the
use of two disks is suggested. The
lock is made as follows : From a piece
of /ie or 14-in. hard wood, saw out
three disks, A, Fig. 1, from 1 to 4 in. in
diameter, according to the size of lock
desired. For one with 2-in. disks, as
shown, cut slots, B, Vi; in- wide and
deep, in the edge of the disks. For
axles use % by 2-in. hardwood dowels,
C, with a six-penny headless wire nail
in one end, leaving about y^ in. of it
exposed.

The case of the lock is shown in Fig.
1. It is made large enough to mount
the disks, as shown. Around the edges
of the inside surface of the lid fasten
strips a trifle thicker than the disks.
Place the disks in the positions shown,
drilling small holes in the baseboard
for the nail axles. The bolts, D, and
the piece, E, are made of hard wood,
fastened with a lap joint. On each
side of the bar, D, fasten cleats, F, to
hold it in position. The handle, H,
moves in a slot in the lid, and is fixed
to the bar, E.

The door, or lid, on which the lock
is to be used, is provided with open-
ings, J, as shown in Fig. 3. The axles
C, project through openings, as bear-
ings. When the windows J, through
which the combinations are read, are
made, place the ends of the bolts in
the slots of the disks and screw the
lock in position. JMark on each disk
the point exactly in the center of the
window, enabling one to work the
combination temporarily. To lock the
device, push the handle to the left and
turn the axles. To unlock it, turn the
axles vmtil the pencil marks appear in
the middle of the windows, and throw
the bolts.

Next make paper dials, K, of a diam-
eter as shown in Fig. 3. Divide the
circumference into from 50 to 100

equal parts, according to the size of
the dial, and draw radii, as shown.

■ ■

\=^- 7—- ^r^- ~

T °~^

^^^=J^—

■<^

TOP OF LID

Fia.s F10.4

This Wooden Combination Lock Gives Good Service
and is Easily Made

Number at least every fifth point. To
the face of each disk. A, with small
thumb tacks, fasten one of the dials,
placing the combination numbers
selected exactly over the pencil marks
made in setting the temporary com-
bination. Verify the combination be-
fore locking it. Unless the slots in the
disks are a little wider than the ends
of the bolts, the combination must be
very closely adjusted. An aid in set-
ting the combination is a line on the
glass or a point of black paper, as
shown in Fig. 2. The combination
may be changed by setting the dials in
new positions. The large number of
combinations possible makes it very
difficult to obtain the combination. For
most purposes, two disks are sufficient
in a lock of this kind.

CA convenient method of supporting
a garden-hose nozzle is to tie a loose
knot in the end of the hose, arranging
the nozzle to spray as desired.

432

A Simple Metal Bird Basin Practical Uses for Old Button Clasps

A bird basin can be made an attrac-
tive feature of a home garden, and that
show n in the
illustration was
made easily of a
metal basin and
a section of iron
pipe. The pipe
was sunk in the
ground to a
depth of 30 in.
and loose rock
placed around
the end of it. A
shallow pan,
hammered out
of a flat piece of
sheet metal and
provided with a
cork stopper,
was fixed to the
upper end of the
pipe. Holes were
made in the edge
of the pan and
strings to sup-
port morning-
glories were attached from them to a
hoop, set in the ground around the
pipe. When it is desired to change the
water in the pan it is drained oiT by
releasing the cork. — Mrs. F. D. Reyn-
olds, Stevens Point, Wis. .

^'^ARTH

Catch-AU Screen inside Hot-Air
Register

In order to recover small articles
dropped through the floor-register
grating of a hot-
air heating sys-
tem without the
necessity of re-
moving a section
of the pipe, mesh
gratings like
that shown were fitted into place.
Number six gauge wire mesh was used
in pieces just large enough to fit into
the metal box below the register. Ac-
cess to the screen may be had by re-
moving the grating. — F. M. Ball, St.
Louis, Mo.

Leather and metal-button clasps
from suspenders are useful in repairing
heavy gloves, large leather cases, and
other articles on which the clasps have
been lost or worn out. They may be
sewed or riveted into place. Attached
to straps, they are useful means of mak-
ing a fastening, and may be applied to
leggings, and other parts of outing
clothes.

Bark-Covered Porch Light and Plant
Shelf

A combination flowerpot holder and
reading lamp was made from two
pieces of wood,
bark, and a lamp
socket, and
proved to be a
good shaded
reading light.
With a plant in
the flowerpot,
the fixture was
made quite at-
tractive by day.
Maple bark, well
dried out, was
used. A piece of
board, % in.
. thick, was cut to
fit the curve of
the bark, and
fastened to it.
The former was
then nailed to another board, % by
5 by li in., which formed the support
for the fixture. A lamp socket was at-
tached and a suitable current source
provided.

Removable Headrest for Chair

A convenient attachment for the
back of a chair is an extension padded
to form a comfortal)le headrest. This
may be made by fixing a padded piece
of wood, 6 in. wide and 30 in. long,
to the chair back by means of suitable
wooden braces, notched to fit the top
of the chair.

433

Rigging Economizes Space in Closet Mechanical Toy Pigeon Made of Wood

It was necessary to store a consider-
able quantity of clothing in a small
clothes closet, and the rigging detailed
in the illustration was devised, and
provided unusual accommodations.
Wooden rods, 11/2 in. in diameter, were
set across the closet at each side of the
door and supported on notched blocks,
as shown in the detail at the left. The
clothes used frequently were supported
on these rods by means of hangers.
For clothes out of season, or used only
occasionally, a special rigging was ar-
ranged in the space above the door.
A li'2-in. rod was fitted between the
walls to slide in a groove at its ends.
Strips nailed to the wall formed the
groove. Cords, attached to the rod,
as shown, and carried to the ceiling,
where pulleys were fixed, made it con-
venient to raise or lower the rod. A

side: view

This Simple Rigging Gave Accommodation for a
Large Quantity of Clothing in a Small Closet

sheet was spread over the clothes to
protect them. — A. K. Hay, Ottawa,
Canada.

Scoop Made of Box End

A scoop that is serviceable for hand-
ling various kinds of lighter bulk ma-
terial may be made by cutting the end
from a cardboard box of suitable size
and trimming it into shape. A handle
may be provided by making a loop of
cloth, or flexible cardboard, and fasten-
ing it with a paper fastener.

When the head of the mechanical
pigeon is lowered the tail rises, and

Draw on the Wire and the Head and Tail Bob Up
and Down

the reverse. It is constructed as fol-
lows : Make paper patterns for the
parts, which consist of two body pieces,
a head, a tail, and the foot piece. The
shape of the parts is shown in the
sketch, the front body piece being re-
moved to show the connections of the
rubber and wire controlling the_ move-
ments. The view above shows the fas-
tening of the parts with nails. The main
sizes of the parts, which are made of Vs
to i/4-in. soft wood, are : head, 1% by
31/2 in. ; body, 2 by 514 in. ; tail, 1% by
314 in. ; foot piece, 1% by 11/2 in. Mark
the shapes on the wood, cut them out,
and mount them, with a rubber band
connecting the head and tail, as shown.
Nail the foot piece between the body
pieces, and pivot the head and tail on
nails. Connect the head with a wire,
having a loop on one end. Make the
holder, and cut a slot into it for the
draw wire, operated with the finger. —
C. C. Wagner, Los Angeles, Calif.

434

Sportsman's Cabinet for Guns,
Equipment, and Books

The books, magazines, guns, fishing
tackle, camera, etc., of the out-of-door
man are often
kept or laid aside
in various places.
To provide a
good place for
such equipment,
I made the case
shown. What
apparently is a
neat bookcase
when closed, the
top shelf used as
a magazine rack,
accommodates
numerous other
articles. After
the "bookcase"
has been exam-
ined superficially
I open the door,
swing the
shelves out, and
display back of
them my guns,
hunting togs
and outfit. Two
small drawers,
covered by the
upper rail of the
door when
closed, hold va-
rious small ar-
ticles ; and a
blind drawer un-
der the door
holds shoes and
the larger ar-
ticles. I con-
structed this combination cabinet as
follows : The lumber used was Vs-in.
chestnut. The dimensions of the cab-
inet are 60 by 30 by 14 in. For the
back of the bookshelf and cabinet I
used matched ceiling. The door cas-
ings are 4 in. wide ; the sidepieces of
the door are 3 in. wide, the top, 4 in.,
and bottom piece, 6 in. wide. This
cabinet cost me less than $3 and does
the service of a gun cabinet valued at
$30.— F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, N. Y.

A Photographic-Negative Filing
System

In order to preserve photographic
negatives and to make them easily
available, the following homemade
system was devised : The negatives
are kept in envelopes having a print
from the negative therein mounted on
the face. A trial, or an inferior, print
is used, and shows what negative it
contains. Extra prints and enlarge-
ments are kept in the same envelope
for each negative. On the face, or
back, of the envelope is written data,
such as name or title of subject, place
and date taken, stop and shutter speed
used, most suitable printing paper, de-
veloper, etc. This data may be kept
in the negative envelope on a sheet of
paper. This leaves the photograph al-
bum free from data that is of no in-
terest to persons viewing the pictures.
The envelopes are kept in their orig-
inal boxes, classified as "Animals,"
"Birds," "Live Stock," "Landscapes,"
"My 1914 Vacation Trip," and so
forth.

Knee-Rest Holder for Milking Pail

Becoming tired of holding the milk
pail between my knees while milking,
I made a con-
trivance of strap
iron to overcome
this. It is ar-
ranged so that
the milk pail will
just fit inside,
the curved
straps support-
ing the weight
of the pail on
the knees. The
holder may be
made of wood,
with the possible
exception of the
curved arms, which should be made of
pieces of iron, i/g in. thick and about 3
in. wide. The circular frame can be
made adjustable to various pails by
bolts set in holes in the bands. — ^J. C.
Whitescarver, Miami, Okla.

433

Tool Sockets in Edge of Drawing
Board

Drawing tools, pencils, etc., were
kept out of the way on a drawing
board by inserting them in pockets
drilled in the upper edge of the draw-
ing board. A small brass plate, piv-
oted on the center, was used to cover
each set of two pockets, and the latter
were numbered on the upper surface of
the board. — Elmer O. Tetzlaff, De
Pere. Wis.

Cart for Carrying Huge Drum in
Parade

The inalienable right of the small
boy to carry the drum in a parade was
disregarded wiien the cart shown in
the sketch was made for a large
drum. Two rubber-tired wheels were
mounted on an axle bent to fit the
drum, and curved handles, forming a
supporting frame, were fixed to it. The
frame was made of hickory, steamed

This Rubber -Tired Cart was Built Specially for a
Large Drum Used in Parades

and bent into shape, and the drum was
arranged to be quickly dismounted. —
W. C. K., Mason City, Iowa.

A Homemade Inverted Electric-Light
Fixture

An attractive and serviceable in-
verted-light fixture for a den and study
was made at an outlay of about 30
cents, the details of construction being
shown in the illustration. The light is

distributed thoroughly, and with a 40-
watt lamp is ideal for work at a desk.
The lower portion A is a tin wash-
basin, costing 10 cents, and the part

pBH

[E.

A Ten-Cent Wash-
basin was Used as
a Reflector for This
Light Fixture

C is a cup-cake pan, costing 5 cents.
The rim B is made of %-in. wood, 13
in. in diameter, and the disk E, 10 in.
wide, is the round block cut from the
center of the rim B. The uprights D
are made of %-in. dowel rods and of a
length suitable to the height of the
room. They are glued and toenailed to
the rim and disk. F is a cup-cake pan,
and G is a drawer knob, fastened to
the pan F. These parts can be omit-
ted if desired. They are fastened to
the top with wood screws.

The light socket is supported in a
metal strap, H, having a rounded offset
to match a bolted clamping strip. The
inside of the basin, being tinned, acts
as an excellent reflector. All parts ex-
cept the inside of the pan are enameled
white. The fixture is fastened to the
ceiling with screws through the disk. —
A. F. Krueger, Champaign, 111.

CThe gummed portions of unsealed
envelopes are often useful when a
gummed strip is desired.

436

Laying Out a Horizontal Sundial Plate

To make a sundial accuratel}' it is
necessary to lay out the lines for the
particular locality -where it is to be
used, as a dial will vary slightly accord-
ing to the latitude. The parts may be
made of wood, metal, or stone. A good
method is to have a bronze casting
made from a wooden pattern. The lines
may be cut with a lathe and planer in
a machine shop, or engraved by hand.

The illustrations show how the dial
is made. The lines, as indicated in
Fig. 1, should be laid out very carefully,
first on a pattern. Draw a horizontal
line near the top which represents the
six-o'clock line, A-\T, in Fig. 2. Then
lay out another line AH, at right an-
gles to A-VI. Take a point C at any
convenient place and construct the
right-angled triangle ABD. The angle
CAB should be equal to the degree of

Lay Out the Dial Plate Symmetrically, Allowing
Space for t. e Style

latitude of the place. The angle CBD
equals CAB. Take a compass and set
it to a radius equal to the side BD, and
draw the quadrant DF from E. From
D draw the line DG out for same dis-
tance and parallel with A-\"I. Now
divide the quadrant DF into six equal
parts. Draw the lines El, E2, E3, etc..
and where they intersect the line DG,
draw the lines from A, as A-I, A-H,
A-HI, etc. These are the hour lines.
Divide each of the six divisions of the
quadrant into four parts, and draw the
lines, as shown between the 3 and 4
divisions. These are the 15-minute

parts. Each of these parts may be di-
vided in turn, and this is best done by
eye. unless the dial is quite large.
This will complete one-half of the

The Dial is Mounted Horizontally with the High End
of the Style toward the North

dial. The other half is done in the
same manner, leaving a space between
the line AH and its corresponding line
for the other side of the dial. This
space should be equal to the thickness
of the upright shadow-casting piece, or
style. The style has its base equal in
length to the line AH, and its angle, S,
equal to the latitude, or the angle CAB.
It is mounted in the space with the
high end at 12 o'clock. It may be
fastened to the dial with screws pass-
ing through the base. Mount the dial
horizontal!}^ on a suitable pedestal.
The style should be exactly north and
soutli, with 12 o'clock toward the north.
The dial will be fast or slow over clock
time. This is corrected by consulting

Diagram for Marking

the Dial and Making

the Style

an almanac and setting the clock ac-
cordingly from the dial. A correction
plate may thus be made and mounted
on the pedestal. — F. B. Walters, Bal-
timore, Md.

43V

Homemade Roadster with Motorcycle
Engine

By mounting a 5-lip. motorcycle en-
gine on a frame built of 3 by 4-in.
stuiT, and rigging the outfit on running

gear made of gas-pipe axles, ;

old buggy springs, and motor- >
cycle wheels, I made the light
roadster shown in the photo-
graph, at small cost. It de- -J
velops 30 miles an hour easily,
carrying only the driver, and
lias carried five persons. The
frame is suspended from the
springs, with an underslung
efifect, on the front axle. The
power is transmitted by a fric-
tion drive, consisting of a filler
contact pulley, obtained from
an old commercial car, and a
disk used as a cutter on a plow.

The front axle is of 1-in. gas pipe

and washers, at the bearings. The
steering knuckle was made of steel
shafting turned down to fit a pipe tee,
set in the axle. The drive shaft is y^
in. in diameter, and has a ball thrust
bearing on the end. Sprocket gearing

fitted with suitable-size solid nipples,

This Friction- Drive Cyclecar was Built in Spare Time by a
Meciianic, Using Largely Makeshift Material

gives a ratio of 6 to 1, on high speed. — ■
E. L, Munsen, La Conner, Wash.

Mending Aluminum Cooking Utensils A California Bungalow for Canaries

Holes in aluminum ware may be
mended by plugging them with rivets
as follows : Make a rivet of lead or
solder, and enlarge the hole to fit the
rivet tightly. Insert the rivet from the
inside and back it with a piece of hard
wood, or metal. Rix'ct the other end
to fill the hole and lap over it slightly.
Suitable rivets may be made by cutting
a lead wire, about % in. long, and of
the desired diameter, on which a head
is formed by riveting down the end.
The' wire is set in a hole in a block
during this operation. — L. C. Burke,
Madison, \\'is.

Feeding Cards into Typewriter

Trouble is sometimes experienced in
feeding cards into a typewriter, and
this may be overcome by providing a
paper sheet as a leader. Run the sheet
of paper into the machine and feed the
card in after it, lapping their adjoining
edges. This prevents the edge of the
card from catching on the rolls.

An outdoor birdhouse, which has
proved popular in ^■arious sizes, es-
pecially for cana-
ries, is that with
a bungalow roof,
and sides of wire
netting, as
show n in the
jjhotograph re-
produced. While
a number of
these houses
were made in a
workshop to or-
der, the con-
struction is so
simple that boys
will find con-
siderable fun in
making them,
especially in

framing the roof. The house shown is
18 by 28 in., and 14yo in. high to the
eaves strip. The body of the house is
made in two side and two end frames,
fastened at the corners with screws.
The wire is put on the frames before

438

assembling them. A small, sliding
door, of wood and wire, is provided,
or one end may be made in two frames,
one of which is hinged for a door.
The eaves should extend at least 21/;'
inches. — H. L. Coolidge, Pasadena, Cal.

Homemade Device Aids Blind Person
in Writing

To assist my father in writing, not-
withstanding his blindness, I made the
machine shown in the illustration. It

The Height of the Letters

is Gauged by a Guide

Wire

has been in use two years, and proved
thoroughly practical. It consists of a
board, y^ by 11 by 13% in., on which
the paper is held by a clip. Two
stops. A, insure a good alinement of
the sheet. A T-square, B, slides in a
groove at the left side ; the upper edge
is beveled. At a distance of ^ in.
from this edge is stretched a brass
guide wire, C, by means of which the
height of the script is gauged. The
wire is supported on brass strips, D.
When the line is written, a pin, E, set
in one of a row of holes in the groove
F, is raised, the T-square moved, and
the pin inserted in the next hole below,
giving the correct spacing. As the
wire does not touch the paper, either
ink or pencil can be used. The board
consists of four pieces, glued, and fas-
tened with screws, as detailed. — Arthur
E. Tremaine, Brookline, Mass.

Making Cardboard Tubes for Electrical
Coils

It is often difficult to obtain card-
board tubes as foundations for coils of
special sizes, and the following is a
practical method for making them as
desired : Cut a strip of cardboard some-
what wider than the length of the tube
desired and about 2 ft. long. Soak the
cardboard in water until it is quite pli-
able. \\'rap it tightly around a wooden
rod of suitable size, gluing or shellack-
ing each successive layer. When the
desired thickness has been obtained,
bind the tube with string, and place the
whole in a moderately warm oven to
dry. The tube may then be cut to
length. — Alexander V. Bollerer, New
Britain, Conn.

An Army in a Small Box

A play device that will afford much
amusement and which is interesting
for boys to make is that shown in the
sketch. To make the peephole cabi-
net, obtain a box of suitable size ;
fasten a piece of looking-glass inside,
at each end. Make a peephole at one
end of the box, and rub the silvering
from the back of the looking-glass at
the hole. Place a few metal soldiers,
horses, etc., along the sides of the
box 1 or 3 in. apart, one being set to
hide the reflection of the hole. By look-
ing through the liole an endless army
may be seen. Light is provided

By Reason of the Mirrors, a Few Soldiers Appear
as an Army

through the skylight at the top, whicli
is fitted with ground glass or tissue
paper. This device perplexes most per-
sons who are not familiar with its
construction. — Jame« E. Noble, Ports-
mouth, Canada.

439

Liquid-Filled Tray Carried Safely

In photographic work, and in the
shop or laboratory, chemicals carried
in shallow trays are easily spilled. In
photographic work, especially, this en-
dangers materials used, as the spilled
liquid dries and dust affected by it
may spoil chemicals with which it
comes into contact. The tray should
be carried in a larger pan or basin
partly filled with water, thus keeping
the tray level.

Making an Umbrella Handle
Detachable

A parasol or umbrella with a detach-
able handle is a great convenience in
packing when
traveling, and a
handle may be
made detachable
as follows : Re-
move the handle
by using a block
of wood and a
iiammer. Clean
out the hole, and
polish the steel
stem with emery,
as far as it goes into the handle. Cut
off 1 in. from the end, and then solder
a section of brass tubing into this
piece, and another section into the end
of the stem. The abutting ends are
then tapped to fit an 8-33 screw, which
is then soldered into the shorter piece,
as shown. The latter is pushed into
the handle, and a hole, Yic, in. in diam-
eter, is drilled almost through the
handle. A piece of wire nail is driven
into this hole. By making the screw
fast in the handle rather than in the
stem, the threads are protected, and
the length when taken apart is corre-
spondingly reduced. — John D. Adams,
Phoenix, Ariz.

CTo renew a typewriter ribbon, roll it
on a spool and apply a very small drop
of glycerin at intervals of several
inches, with a fountain-pen filler, and
permit the glycerin to soak in thor-
oughly.

Boys' Athletic-Equipment Locker

The boy should have a place in the
home for his sports togs and equip-

~~~-=^^=%P^

The Boy Who
Takes Pride in His
Athletic Equipment
will Find Much
Pleasure in Making
This Cupboard for It

ment. and a cupboard like that shown
can be made easily for the purpose.
Its size will depend on the quantity
of articles to be stored. A good size
is 12 by 30 in., by 5 ft. high. Plain
boards are used, and for the door they
are fastened together with cleats and
screws. The drawer is convenient but
not essential. — J. D. Hough, Toledo,
Ohio.

Wire Compacts Bristles in Polish or
Stencil Brushes

The bristles of brushes used for
applying shoe polish and for painting
through stencils
often curl so
much that the
brush becomes
almost useless.
In order to over-
come this I
bound the bris-
tles with several
turns of wire
and soldered them into place as shown.
When desirable, part of the wire may
be removed by cutting it at the solder. —
Hugo Kretschmar, West Nyack, N. Y.

440

Old Table Used as Wall Workbench Box to Protect Extra Spark Plugs

Good use was made of an old table,
one leg of which was broken, by re-
moving two of the legs at one side and
fitting the table against a wall. A
wide board was set on the back edge
of the table, against the wall, and pro-
vided a rack for tools. A drawer was
fitted into the front of the table, and a
small iron vise was clamped at one
end. The arrangement provided a con-
venient bench for home shop work.

Lettering Photo Prints without Mark-
ing Negative

Instead of scratching titles on pho-
tographic negatives, which often pro-
daces a poor result, a good method is
to write the title on the sensitive paper
with black ink before printing. Care
must be taken not to scratch the pa-
per. The toning and fixing baths wash
away the ink, leaving the script or let-
tering white. The negative is thus
unmarred.

Rope Pad Prevents Slamming of Door

An antislam pad, made of a piece of
rope and fixed to
the knobs of
doors, is in gen-
eral use in a
large hospital.
The device is
made by form-
ing loops on the
end of a short
section of rope,
as shown, and
fitting them over
the door knob.
This also pre-
vents the closing
of the door so
that a patient may be heard in calling
an attendant. — C. M. Hall, St. Louis,
Missouri.

CCurtain rollers should be arranged so
that the direction of pull on the tacked
edge of the curtain is away from the
end.

Damage often results to spark plugs
which are thrown in the tool box of an

TOP VIEW

END VIEW

"^;;--ri— — ^' ir;:^^— i::^ — -^J—- -^ri-— '^:^— — -^^ — -^^— — — r;r— H

^5^

1 1

1^^^^^^^

',■ '^^

=^=.^3^i^^»^^S^|___:_-^_ y

SIDE VIEW

The Spark Plugs are Fitted Compactly in the Case
and are Protected from Damage

automobile, and the use of a small case
for the extra spark plugs is desirable.
Partitions may be fitted into an old
box of suitable size, or a case may be
specially made. That shown was de-
signed to provide for six spark plugs
in a minimum of space. It was made
of i/4-in. wood, and of a length so that
the spark plugs could be slipped in the
recesses only by turning the faces of
adjoining plugs together. A hinged
cover keeps them firmly in place. —
E. R. Mason, Danville, 111.

Homemade Spring Wagon Seat

Two ys-in. boards, 12 in. wide, be-
tween which two 12-in. pieces of 3
by 4-in. wood are bolted, provide a
strong spring seat for a wagon. The
boards are cut to a suitable length, and
the 2 by 4-in. pieces are set near the
middle, and about 8 in. apart. This
gives a spring seat at each end of the
device.

Cushioned Chair Made of a Barrel

A strong barrel may be made into a
comfortable chair by cutting it halfway
through at the middle and shaping the
remaining upper portion into an arm
and back rest. Holes are bored at the
seat level and at the back, and wires
woven through them to form a back-
ina: for excelsior-stuffed cushions.

Bicycle Fitted Up to Resemble
Motorcycle

The boy who cannot own a motor-
cycle but who has a bicycle, may re-
model it to resemble a power-driven
machine by fitting it
up with equipment,
much of which can be
made in the home
workshop. The illus-
tration shows how an
ordinary bicycle was
improved by several
practical fittings. The
lower end of the mud-
guard of the rear wheel
was extended to form a
clip, for the homemade
stand A. Brackets
were made of strap iron
to support the bundle
carrier B, the basket of
which was made of
wood. The tank C, 3
by 3 by 21 in., with two
compartments and
doors, contains bat-
teries and tools. It is
fastened to the frame
by means of two bolted
straps. The bracket D was made of
~trap iron, to support the electric head-
lig-ht E. The handlebars were ex-

tended, as shown at F, and the horn
G was provided. The seat post was
lengthened by welding a piece to it,
and reversed, as at H. A tail light, J,
and a pump, K. held by straps, were
provided, and the front mudguard was

Comparison of the

'Before and After" Illustrations Shows Strikingly the
Resemblance to a Motorcycle

fitted with a leather piece. L, shaped
as shown in the front view. — P. P.
Avery, Garfield, N. J.

Toy Submarine Made of Shade Roller

The submarine shown really goes,
and was made of a bit of tin. some
lead, a few brads, and an old window-
shade roller, with a good spring. The
spring is the submarine engine. Saw
ofl: the roller 3 in. beyond the inner
end of the spring, and shape it like the
bow of a submarine. Flatten a piece
of lead, and fasten it to the bottom of
the boat for a keel. Experiment until
the keel is of the right weight, and
in the proper place, permitting the
boat to move evenly, just below the
surface of the water. For the pro-
peller, cut a 2-in. tin disk as shown,
and bend the blades into shape. In
the center make a hole to admit the

end of the spring, to which it is then
soldered. Wind up the "engine" by
turning the propeller. The shade-

SH4DE ROLLF.R '

TIN
PROP£Lt£tJ

-tEAtlKEEl.

This Submarine's "Engine" is Wound by Means
of the Propeller

roller spring can also be used for other
toy craft. — E. P. Sullivan, Arlington,
Massachusetts.

CRub powdered graphite on rubber
and asbestos gaskets so that they may
be removed easily when desired.

443

Simple Machine for Transmitting
Writing

An interesting and novel construc-
tion for amateur or boy mechanics is
a telautograph or writing telegraph

pencil on the pad at the left is moved
in writing a message. The pivoted
triangle communicates the action to
the string E, which actuates the other
triangle and its lever system. The rub-
ber bands serve to steady the action.
The instruments may be arranged a
short distance apart for play or experi-
mental purposes or ret in rooms on dif-
ferent floors, by making suitable pulley
connections for the cords E.^Villiam
Freebury, Bufifalo, N. Y.

A Message Written on the Pad with a Pencil is
Transmitted to the Other Pad at a Con-
siderable Distance Away

machine. The instruments, as shown,
are duplicates with the exception of
the placing of the rubber bands. They
can be made in different sizes, and sat-
isfactory results were obtained by
making the base 7 by 12 in., the arm B
5 in. long and % in. wide, and the
triangle C G in. by Si/o in. A hole is
bored in the arm B, slightly smaller
than the pencil to be used and a slot
sawed from the edge to hole, so that
when the pencil is forced into the hole
it will be tightly gripped, as at A. The
arm B is fastened to triangle C, to move
freely. The triangle is fastened to the
base, and can
also move freely.
The rubber
1) a n d s D are
stretched tightly
to hold the mov-
ing parts in posi-
tion. The strings
E should be
strong, and
stretched taut.

The larger dia-
gram shows the
instruments placed in parallel position.
The smaller diagram shows how they
can be placed one above the other. An
unruled pad is fastened to the base of
each instrument with thumb tacks. The
operation may be traced by noting the
successive action of the parts when the

FOLD ON DOTTED LINES

Diagonal Corners on Disk-Record
Covers

Having been bothered with the
edges of square paper covers of di.sk
records curling,
making it un-
handy to place
them in a file, I
remodeled them
as shown in the
sketch. The
covers without
the lower cor-
ners were so
convenient that
I made others
by folding and
pasting paper of
" LSLS^ ^'^^ shape sliown

in the pattern.
It was found desirable to use a good
quality of paper for the new envelopes,
as this gave added protection. — J. H.
Moore, Hamilton, Ontario, Can.

Live Poultry Weighed Handily in
Funnel Scale

A deep funnel, or cone, made of sheet
metal and attached to an ordinary
platform weighing scale or a draw
scale, is useful especially in weighing
live poultry. The fowl is placed in the
funnel head first and remains quiet
while being weighed, which is not the
case in most common methods of weigh-
ing. The funnel is mounted on three
legs, for use on a platform scale, and
suspended from a ring by chains, from
the hook of a drawspring scale. — C. W.
Reemtsen, Des Moines, la.

443

Transferring Pictures to Glass

The surface of glass on which pic-
tures are to be transferred must be

thoroughly clean. A

coat of nearly colorless
varnish is applied, and
permitted to dry over-
night in a room free
from dust. Wet the
picture, soaking it in
clear water for about
10 minutes. Place it
on blotting paper with
the front side down,
leaving the back wet.
Varnish the glass again,
and place the picture
face down on the var-
nished surface, pressing
out the bubbles, work-
ing from the center out.
Rub on the back of the
'transfer paper until the
picture is transferred to
the varnished surface,
and remove the paper ''"'•^
carefully. Permit the picture on the
glass to dry, and then varnish it.

Model Paddle-Wheel Boats

Only a few boys have ponds of their
own, in a pasture, perhaps. But there

An Order-Memo Device for Delivery
Routes

A milk driver who had many extra
orders of milk and cream to deliver had
considerable difficulty in keeping track
of the orders. He overcame this diffi-
culty by the use of a clip attached to
the steering wheel of his truck. He got
a spring clothespin, wired one side of it
to one of the spokes of the steering
wheel, and now places his extra orders
in a ring attached to the clip, as they
come on his route. When he makes a
delivery, he moves the memo on the
ring, bringing the next order before
him. This method can be used in many
other businesses, where articles such as
newspapers are delivered on routes. —
Francis W. Nunenmacher, Berkeley,
California.

The Rubber- Band
Motor is Wound Up
at the Crank, and
Propels the Boat
About 20 Feet

are miniature lakes in our city parks,
pools at our summer camps, and old
water holes in the woods ; if all of these
fail, a boy can still sail his ships on the
bathtub sea. A simple side-wheeler,
built of wood, is shown in the sketch.
It winds up with a crank and runs 15
to 20 ft. A float is made by pointing
the ends of a thick board, the dimen-
sions of which are given in Fig. 1. On
this the paddle-wheel frame is nailed,
as shown in the top view, Fig. 1, the

l°°nl

K ! .

pi}oonQOQ™°^^E'E'°°ff°°™°5tc=^^ 1

•^^2

^^^^^^— 0-

no. 5

== — ^^ "-'" ^

CTo counteract mildew on canvas,
coat the parts with soap and rub well
with powdered chalk or whiting.

The Stern-Wheeler Is Similar in Construction to the
Side-Wheeler as to Driving Mechanism

side view. Fig. 2, and the end view.
Fig. 3. It is made of thin wood. A
broom-handle section, just long enough

444

to slip into this frame, is whittled to
form a winding drum, and fitted with
paddles, wire axles, and a crank. A
second shorter section of the broom-
handle, set between blocks nailed to
the stern, serves as a roller for the
rubber bands. These, linked together
and tied to a length of heavy cord, as
shown in Fig. 1, are fixed to the bow

and run over the roller to the drum.
The addition of a top, or lid, of card-
board, wood, or tin, and painted to re-
semble cabins and pilot house, 'and
fitted with masts and a smokestack,
completes the model. Fig. 5 shows a
similarly built stern-wheeler with the
stern-wheel shaft set on brackets. — E
R. Smith, WMa Walla, Wash.

A Small Thresher of Practical Use

Buckwheat, oats, wheat, morning-
glory seeds, and other grains and seeds,
were successfully cleaned with a model

STRAW AND CHAFF

SlDE-VltW INTERIOR
.CYLINDER PULLEY

SIDE-VIEW EXTERIOR

END VIEW

Made as a Model. This Small Thresher Proved Useful
for Various Grains and Seeds

thresher of simple design which I made
from materials picked up in and around
the farm workshop. It is 24 in. high,
14 in. wide, and 3% ft. long. For a
cylinder, I used a roller, 3 in. in diam-
eter and 1 ft. long. The teeth are nails
driven spirally about the cylinder in
rows that alternate with similar teeth
in the concave, the nails being driven
Vo in. apart. The fan consists of a
small roller upon which four pieces of
tin are nailed. The beaters are larger
rollers, into which wooden teeth are
set. To hold the cvlinder, fan, and

beaters in place, four posts and two
crosspieces were used, as shown.

The power used is an 8-ft. windmill
that I constructed, using a buggy
wheel as the frame. The cylinder must
be run at a fairly high speed, the fan
nearly as fast, and the beaters may be
run much slower"; this is taken care of
by the relative size of the pulleys. The
screen between the fan and beaters
must be of small mesh so that grain
will not fall through into the fan cham-
ber. The sieve through which the
grain drops must be the proper size for
grain, and can be varied for the differ-
ent kinds of grain or seed threshed.
It is better to put only the heads of
grain into the thresher, as long straw.s
twist about the rollers. The material
to be threshed is fed into the cylinder-
in the usual manner, and takes its
course as indicated by the arrows, the
grain falling to the spout at the bot-
tom, and the straw and chafiF being
blown out at the exhaust for it. Soft
wood was used in the construction,
%-in. stock for the heavier pieces, and
% or %-in. stock for the other parts.
The curA'ed housing for the fan was
made of tin. Leather or rope belts,
fitted tightly, may be used. The power
is applied on the cylinder pulley, hand
or other power being suitable. — F. F.
Brimmer, Dalton, N. Y.

Moth-Bali Puzzle as Window-
Advertising Novelty

A druggist recently puzzled thou-
sands with a novel window display. A
small white ball in a 1-in. glass tube,
about 10 in. long, displayed in a show
window, would sink to the bottom, then

445

slowly ascend, only to sink as before. A
sign reading "What Makes It Move?"
kept the crowd guessing. The tube
was apparently filled with water. The
construction is simple. The tube is
about three-quarters full of carbonated
soda water. The white ball is an ordi-
nary moth ball. The ball sinks, and
when it becomes soaked gradually as it
lowers, bubbles of gas cling to it, carry-
ing it to the top of the solution. There
the gas escapes, destroying the ball's
buoyancy, and causing it to sink again.
This process is repeated over and over.
— David J. Lonergan, Minneapolis,
Minnesota.

holder for a kettle, and as a pencil clip.
Most of these can be made by twisting

Record-Cleaning Pad Fixed to Talking
Machine

By providing a practical method of
keeping talking-machine records free

from dust auto-

matically, a s
they are played,
the life of the
record i s pro-
longed and
the reproduc-
tions are more
clear, and free
from scratching
sounds. A felt
pad supported on
a fixture made of
a strip of brass
does the work nicely. The pad is
clamped in a clip at the end of the brass
strip, and the entire device is held in
place by the spring action of the upper
clip, which fits over the end of the re-
producing arm. The pad or the whole
device can be slipped out of place
quickly.

Novel Uses for Safety Pins

It is surprising to note how many
uses can be made of an ordinary safety
pin, both as an emergency-repair de-
vice, and for other purposes. I found
40 simple uses for safety pins, a few of
which are shown in the illustration.
Some of the many other uses are as a
chain, a candle holder, a spring, a cover

HOLDS BUGGY
SPRING HINGE FOR BOX CURTAIN OVER
TORN BUTTON-
HOLE

DRY-BATTERY CONNECTOR

These Eight Examples of How an Ordinary Safety

Pin can be Used for Practical Purposes

Are Suggestive of Many Others

the safety pin with a small plier. By
using a cutting plier, many more useful
kinks can be devised. — George G. Mc-
Vicker, North Bend, Neb.

Moving Heavy Objects with a Broom

After trying to move a heavy trunk
alone, the attempt is usually given up
until some friend
can be called in
to lend a hand,
because a truck

The Broom Is Slippery and Rides over the Floor or
Even Carpets without Trouble

or Other means of handling such heavy
objects is not at hand. An ordinary
sweeping broom will serve as a sled to
move a stove or similar object in the
home without heavy lifting. The straw
in the broom is slippery and can be
drawn over carpets without injuring
them. In handling a stove, the legs
must of course be removed, one person
drawing the load and the other steady-
ing it. — Samuel H. Avery, Chicago, 111.

4-i<3

Rear Seat for Motorcycle or Bicycle

A rear seat mounted on a light sup-
port that can be quickly attached to a

SECTION AT A

OETAIU OF StAT POST

This Light-Weight Homemade Rear-Seat Fixture Is
a Convenience for a Strong Bicycle or Motorcycle

Strong bicycle or a motorcycle is handy,
and one like that shown in the sketch
can be made in the home workshop.

The supporting frame, consisting of
two main sections forming a fork over
the rear axle, and a brace extending to
the bicycle frame, are made of 14 by
li/4-in. strap iron. The seat and the
handlebars are supported on posts of
the usual type, flattened at their lower
ends, and riveted to the fixture. The
lower ends of the fork are bent to form
foot rests. The detailed construction
of the seat post and the method of
clamping the brace at A are shown in
the smaller sketches. The fastenings of
the seat and handlebar posts are made
with rivets or bolts. — P. P. Avery, Gar-
field, N. J.

Changing Wheels Equalizes Wear on
Baby-Cab Tires

The front and rear wheels of a baby
cab are usually of the same size and the
tires on the rear wheels are worn much
more rapidly than those on the front
wheels. By changing the position of the
wheels, the wear on the tires is equal-
ized, making it unnecessary to renew
them until all are worn out. — J. Cecil
Alter, Cheyenne, AVyo.

A Craftsman Leather Billfold

By LIVINGSTON HAVILAND

The making of a billfold is easily
within the range of an amateur in

... . .. — '^r-

-2|--^t^2i''-^

,k<=

BODy PART NO. I

Fig. 1. Place
the Pattern on
the Leather and
Trim It to Size
Even with the
Edges of the
Pattern

leather work, who will observe the in-
structions carefully. Seal, morocco,

pigskin, and ooze sheep are satisfac-
tory. Skiver, or thin leather, and silk
moire make suitable linings. When
the processes involved in the making
of the billfold are mastered, numerous
other small articles in leather will sug-
gest themselves, and can be made simi-
larly.

The finished billfold is shown with
the cardcase side up; folded, and with
the bill compartment open, in Fig. 2.
Begin the making of it by cutting a
pattern of stifif cardboard for the main
portion, or body part No. 1, as shown
in Fig. 1.

Make a second pattern for body part
No. 2, as shown in Fig. 1. Trim the
leather to fit the patterns, a straight-
edge of metal being placed over the
pattern as a guide for the knife. A

447

close-grained hardwood board, or a
piece of sheet zinc, is suitable as a base
for cutting the leather.

Cut pieces of lining slightly larger
than the patterns. If skiver is used, it
must be glued to the leather with a
good quality of leather
glue, which should be
pliable so as not to
crack the leather. Do
not stretch the lining,
but merely smooth it
gently, as otherwise it
may cause the leather
to buckle. Place the
glued parts under a
light weight to dry.
In fitting the silk lin-
ing into place, apply a
thin stripe of glue
around the edges only,
and permit them to ex-
tend beyond the leath-
er. Then trim them
of¥ neatly.

Part No. 1 is to be
folded to form the back
of the billfold and also
the two pockets for
cards. The parts are
glued as shown in Fig.
3. Weight the billfold
and permit the glue to
dry. The sewing may then be under-
taken.

The neatness of the billfold will de-
pend largely on the care with which
the sewing is done, and the finish on the

sewed, ^e in- from them. Mark the
spacing for an inch of the stitches on a
strip of paper and transfer them to the
stitching line. Punch the holes, mak-
ing certain that each is made with the
awl held vertical, as shown at D. Back

APPLY STBIPES OF CLUE
AS INDICATED BY LIGHT
LINE AND DROP PART TWO
OF BODY INTO PLACE

Fig 2. The Photo-
graphs Show the
Cardcase Side, the
Folded Binfold,
and the Silk-Lined
Money Compart-
ment

the open ends
with strips of
cardboard when
punching holes
in them. Heavy,
waxed silk of a color to match the
leather is used for the sewing. The
work may be done by hand without a
holder, clamped between two boards.
Thread the two needles and start them
from the right side, as at E. Pass the
needle from the first hole through the
second as at F. With the needles then
in position, as at G, continue this stitch.
Tie the ends of the thread neatly at the
end of the stitching. Trim the edges
and tool them to a smooth finish with
a suitable metal tool, or rod, heated
moderately, applying water with the
finger tip.

PADT NO I-- FOLD ENDS OVER

AS SHOWN BY DOTTED LINES

Fig 3. Glue the Parts Together Carefully along the
Edges, and Fold the Ends as Indicated

edges. Draw a straight line with a
blunt-point tool along the edges to be

CThe taper of a key is generally Vs '"•
per foot of length, and keys having a
head are preferable because of greater
ease in removing them. The width of
a key is usually 14 the diameter of the
shaft, plus y^ inch.

448

Lawn Mower Sharpened Efficiently
with Simple Rigging

With this device, one can quickly
sharpen the lawn mower, or perhaps
earn money sharpening the neighbors'

-BENCH
MOWER SUPPORT

DETAIL OF HANDLE

The Lawn Mower is
Sharpened Quickly by
the Use of This Rigging

machines. Be-
cause several
knives in a lawn
mower work
against the cutting blade, it is difficult
to sharpen a mower satisfactorily with
a file or stone. A usual method is to
reverse the cutting-wheel cogs, turn the
mower upside down, and run it back-
ward over the ground. By the use of
grinding paste on the cutting blade the
cutting wheel tends to sharpen itself.
This process can be improved by sup-
porting the mower, as shown at A, the
blocks permitting the mowers driving
wheels to rest outside them. A block,
B, supports the wooden roller. Remove
the driving wheels, and the gears which
turn the cutting wheel. Take the gear
from one end and put it in the other
end, replacing the driving wheel. By
revolving the latter backward, the cut-
ting wheel will also turn backward.
Apply a paste of emery powder and
lubricating oil to the cutting blade, and
adjust the blade so that it comes fairly
into contact with the cutting wheel.
Turn the driving wheel backward, and
gradually tighten the adjustment until
a good edge on the cutting blade and
the knives is produced,

A handle fixed on the driving wheel,
as shown at C, makes turning it easier.
After sharpening, replace the gears,
clean the bearings thoroughly, and re-
place the driving wheels. — Ed. M.
Hawes, Everett, Wash.

Rubber Pads for Opening Screw
Watch Bezel

The modern screw case for watches
is primarily for the purpose of keeping
dust from getting into the delicate
works. Unless one is possessed of a
strong grip, it is hard not only to set
the case tight enough to keep out dust,
but also to open the watch when adjust-
ment is necessary. To make this work
easy, a jeweler has, as a part of his tool
kit, several rubber dies to fit the differ-
ent sizes of watch cases. He made
them from old rubber heels, cut to fit
the watch cases closely. Danger of
breaking the crystal is also overcome. —
C. E. Drayer, Cleveland, Ohio.

Spring Roost Releases Poultry-House
Door Latch

Those in the habit of shutting their
poultry houses at night to prevent dis-
turbance or loss by night-prowling ani-
mals, will be interested in a contrivance
that makes this unnecessary. The prin-
ciple of the mechanism, as illustrated,
is that the opening to the poultry house
is closed after the fowls have gone to
roost, and in the morning when they
descend from the roost, the door auto-
matically opens, and they are free to
go out. The spring door opens inside,
with hinges at the side, and a suitable

"-SPRING

CORD

^ DROPPING BOAHD

ROOST
SUPPORTS

'PULLEV

The Door is Opened Automatically When the Fowls
Leave Their Roost

bumper. The spring has just sufficient
tension to cause the door to open when
the catch is released.

44D

Tlie roost is fitted up as shown in
tiie detail. One end is held by a bolt,
■while the other rests on a coil spring
compressed by the weight of the fowls
on the roost. A cord is attached at
the spring end, passing through pulleys
to the door, where it is fastened to the
end of the bolt catch. The door is
closed after the fowls are on the roost.
The spring end is compressed to a level
position, by their weight. The instant
the birds leave the roost, it rises and
pulls the cord, releasing the catch, and
permitting the door to open. — George
S. Brown, Norwich, Conn.

A Child's Bell-Ringing Hoop

In making this useful toy, first, a
wheel from an old baby carriage was
stripped of the
tire ; then two
laths were fas-
tened together at
one end, and the
wheel inserted
between them,
at the other end,
and held by a
bolt. A strong
cord was passed
around the
groove in the
w heel, and
around a spool,
nailed so as tO'
turn on the side of the lath when the
wheel is rotated. Dri\en into the rim
of the spool are three nails, which
strike against the old alarm-clock bell,
fastened as indicated. — \V. F. Mac-
Gregor, Toronto, Can.

CORD-

Emergency Camp Stoves Quickly
Made

While conducting a boys' camp in
summer we experienced a severe sleet
storm. Our tents were not equipped
with stoves and I faced a double prob-
lem : to keep the boys warm and to
keep therh contented. The difficulty
was solved by having them construct
emergency camp stoves, as shown,
using iron stovepipe, and other mate-

rial at hand. One length of pipe is laid
under the side of the tent about 4 in.
in the ground, as in Fig. 1. An elbow
mounted in sod connects with the chim-

Boys at a Summer Camp Kept Themselves Busy
during a Cold Spell by Making These Stoves

ney. A stone at the front of the stove
regulates the draft, and stones placed
upon the pipe hold the heat. The ar-
rangement diagrammed in Fig. 3 is built
with one length of pipe or a stone con-
duit. A hole is dug into the ground,
about 10 in. deep. Over this is placed
a pan, and an opening is made at the
front for the fuel. The chimney is
made of stones and sticks picked up
around the camp, and plastered with
mud. Cofifee may be boiled or small
cooking done on this stove. — Williani
H. Leach, Alden, N. Y.

Pruning and Brush-Cutting Knife

With the blade of an old beef cutter
and a stout wood handle, I fashioned
a brush knife
that is superior
to a sickle for
cutting down
h e a V y weeds.
The blade was
secured in a slot-
ted handle by a
screw and rivet,
and the top of
the handle wired
as an additional security. A blade of
this sort is handy, also, for pruning pur-
poses.— J. M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

450

Plier Drives Nails in Backing Picture
Frame

The fastening of a picture into a frame

by the use of brads, or tacks, driven

into the frame

behind the back-
ing is often done
carelessly,
because it is dif-
ficult to do a
neat job with an
ordinary h a m -
mer. A much
better way of
driving in these
nails is to use a plier, as shown. Pro-
tect the edge of the frame with a layer
or two of cardboard, and start the nail
carefully, forcing it in by steady pres-
sure on the plier handles.

Clip Holds Flash Lamp on Handlebar
as Headlight

An ordinary pocket flash light makes
a satisfactory headlight for a bicycle if
fitted to the
handlebar with a
suitable clip.
The arrange-
ment shown
makes it possible
to remove the
light quickly for
use in the usual
manner. The
clip, as detailed,
is of spring brass
and is clamped over the post of the
handlebar.— P. P. Avery, Garfield, N. J.

A Backwoodsman's Nutcracker

Most persons know what a difficult
job it is to crack hickory nuts, unless
provided with a
suitable hammer,
or other tool, for
the purpose.
When nut hunt-
ing, such tools
are usually not
at hand, and a method used by an old
backwoodsman will be of interest.

NUT-
NOTCH

lOHEEN
LIMB

First he cut a hickory limb, about 2 in.
thick and 3 ft. long. In the center of
the limb, he cut a square notch, about
halfway through, and just large enough
to admit a nut. Then placing one end
of the limb on the ground, the other
end held in the left hand, he placed a
nut in the notch, and bent the limb
slightly. This brought the edges of
the notch closer together, and cracked
the nut neatly. — C. M. Vaiden, Port-
land, Ore.

Handy Tool for Tightening Wire
Spokes in Wheels

The wire spokes in bicycle and sim-
ilar wheels often become loose, and a
small pocket de-
vice for tighten-
ing them on the
road is handy. A
satisfactory one
can be made
quickly from a
washer, 3 in. in
diameter, cut as
shown. A tapering slot is cut to the
center of the washer to engage the
nipples of various-sized spokes. The
outer circumference of the washer is
filed with a triangular file to provide a
good finger grip. — H. E. Randell, Bos-
ton, Mass.

Bottle Economizes Spray Liquid
in Atomizer

Atomizers are sometimes provided
with delivery tubes_the lower ends of
which are I/4 in.
or more above
the bottom o f
the reservoir,
thus rendering
useless consider-
able of the
spraying liquid.
T o overcome
this waste, in the
case of expensive sprays, a small
homeopathic vial was filled with the
liquid from the bottom of the reservoir,
and lowered into the bottle, as shown.
The delivery tube of the atomizer was

451

set into the vial, and the cap screwed
on. By this means almost every drop
of the spraying fluid was utilized. —
Carl L. Hartshorn, West Haven, Conn.

A Small Rotary Pump Easily Made

This small power pump is made from
a block of wood, a piece of rubber hose,
and a 5-arm rotor of brass, with small
spools attached to it. The base of the
casing is 6 in. square, and of %-in.
wood. A %-in. triangular block is set
at each corner, and a %-in. cover of
wood, fastened at the four corners with
screws. A large nail is used as a shaft
for the rotor, which is cut from brass,
%2 to YiQ in. thick. Small spools are
mounted on the arms of the rotor, and
the small pulley wheel is fixed on the
end of the axle. The action is simple :
As the rollers on the arms revolve
against the hose, the force of the stream
at the discharge end is increased, the

RUBBER HOSE

The Rotating Spools Press against the Water Hose
and Force the Water from It at Increased Pressure

device acting as a pump. Such an
arrangement was used for moving tar-
gets in a rifle range, and can be built on
a larger scale if desired. A small water,
or electric, motor is used to drive the
pump. — S. A. Hardy, St. Paul, Minn.

Cleaning Type Cases with Bicycle
Pump

Type cases can be cleaned easily by
using a bicycle pump, which will blow
the dust out. Typewriters and other
small machinery can also be cleaned
this way. A long hose used with a foot
pump is often preferable to the hand
pump.

Weighted Rope Holds Flag Uprighl-

A householder devised a simple and
effective method of keeping the flag
upright when displayed from a nearly

This Weighted Rope Permits the Flag to Fly
in Its Natural Position

horizontal flagstaff. The cord which
held the flag was run through pulleys,
as indicated, and weighted with a pul-
ley weight. — M. T. Kanary, Chicago,
Illinois.

Homemade Gate Sign with Metal
Letters

Needing a permanent sign to be
mounted on an iron gate, I made one
of metal, which is more durable and
better-looking than most wooden or
other common signs that the home
mechanic can make. I used sheet
metal and marked out the letters to cut
them from the smallest possible strip,
by reversing some of them. They were
cut out with snips and chisels, and the
edges filed smooth. The letters were
then soldered to heavy wires, which

The Metal Letters were Quickly Made and Are
Durable as Well as Neat

were bolted to the gate. by means of
sheet-metal straps and bolts, as shown.
The letters should be polished from
time to time, especially if made from
brass or copper. — Hugo Kretschmar,
Brooklyn, N. Y.

453

Reinforcing the Ends of Rubber
Handlebar Grips

The flexible rubber grips used on
bicycles and motorcycles hav? good
shock-absorbing qualities, but they
have a tendency to break off at the end
of the handlebar. They may be rein-
forced by a small stick projecting from
,the end of the handleljar tubing. One
end of the stick is cut to fit tightly in
the opening, and the other to fit the
flexible end of the grip.— George M.
Zimmerman, Fort Sumner, N. M.

dishes slipping of? onto the floor. A
sink, of the old-fashioned kind used,

Film Holder for Photographic
Developing

The amateur photographer who uses
roll film and who does his developing
by the tray
y^^^ method, will find

this device a
simple and reli-
able means for
holding the film
spool while re-
moving the film,
duplex paper, autographic carbon
paper, gummed labels, etc. Once the
spool is properly placed in the holder,
there is little danger of its dropping.
The holder takes various sizes of film
spools. The side fingers are %6 by %
by 23 in. long. A small peg is s.et in
each finger, 1'/^ in. from the end, to
engage the spool. The upper ends of
the fingers are nailed to a tapered
block of wood, ■% by S^/i and 2i,{; in.
wide, and 8 in. long. The holder can
be conveniently fastened to a wall,
door casing, or to the under side of a
shelf in the dark room. — John Hoeck,
Alameda, Calif.

Old Sink Installed as Dish-Draining
Basin

An added convenience for the house-
wife is the installation, in the place of
the drain board customarily attached to
the kitchen sink, of a second sink, with
waste connections. Light wooden slats
in the sink bottom give it all the utility
of a drain board, without the danger of

f H ^H

W7^

% ^

HBI^^HI^^HHk

The Extra Sink Replaces the Drain Board and Does
Its Work More Effectively

can be purchased about as cheaply as a
good drain board. — E. C. Blomeyer,
Waco, Tex.

Desk-Light Arm Folds into
Pigeonhole

The extension arm for an electric
lamp shown in the illustration was
made of strips from steel building toys.
I installed it in my writing desk, and
fastened it with one screw to the back
of the desk inside the pigeonhole. When
collapsed the arm measures 7y2 in.
from the fastened end to the front end
of the socket, leaving only the globe
protruding. Extended, it measures
161/^ in. The lamp cord is taken
through a hole in the back of the desk.
If a very rigid arm is wanted, the strips
can be doubled. I used screws with
two nuts, but rivets can be used also,
leaving the joints to move freely. The

This Desk Lamp and Holder Folds Up into a
Pigeonhole When Not in Use

sliding feature at the inner end adds
about 2 in. to the length of the arm
when extended. — A. J. Viken, Water-
loo, la.

453

A Soldier's or Traveler's Kit for
Sundries and Toilet Articles

A soldier's kit approved by a colonel
of the national guard because of its
compactness, can be made easily of a
band of khaki cloth. The kit,
including the "housewife," re-
quires cloth, 27 in. wide. Cut
12 in. from one end for the
liousewife, which is 12 by 5
in. wide. To make the house-
wife, fold under the edges Vt
in., and fold one end over 2i/{;
in. and the other 1^2 in. for
pockets. In the larger center
pocket can be placed court
plaster, adhesive tape, photo-
graphs, letters, etc. Bind the
edges 1/4 in-, and form other pockets,
as shown. The entire kit weighs IV'i,
lb. and can be carried by the soldier in
his army blanket. The housewife, if
necessary, can be removed and taken

to the firing line. Handy articles to
be fitted in the kit are mirror that can
be hung up, comb, box of talcum pow-
der, cold cream, tooth paste, pencil,
wash cloth, soaps, shaving brush, tooth-
brush, and scissors. Three safety pins

The Soldier Appreciates a Handy Folding Kit, Especially
If the Girl He Left Behind Made It

at the top of the bag enable it to be
hung up in the tent. Strong binding
tapes are sewed to the bag, and it can
be folded handily in three sections. —
Kate Thomen, Topeka, Kans.

Cooling Foodstuffs with a Moist Rag
and a Draft

It is not always necessary to keep
milk and butter, or other foodstuffs, in
refrigerator temperature to preserve
them, for 50 or 60° will often serve
quite as well where the articles are to
be consumed within a short time. To
accomplish this slight degree of cool-
ing, wrap a moist linen cloth, single
thickness, snugly about the dish or
package, and place it in a shallow pan
of water, in an open window, out of the
sun. The brick of butter should be
placed on a support to hold it out of
the water. The cooling is due to
evaporation from the moist cloth. Not
infrequently on a warm summer day,
a thermometer with a bulb, wetted as
suggested, will be 20° cooler in a
breeze, than a dry-bulb thermometer.

CA table of decimal equivalents, or
other information can be mounted in
shellac, at an angle to be easily read, at
the head of a T-square, and is quite
convenient.

Device Quarters and Cores Apples
and Other Fruit

To provide a simple homemade de-
vice for cutting apples and other fruit
into quarters
and at the same
time removing
the core, the
a r r a n gemen t
shown in the
sketch was made.
The circular
frame is built up
around a ring, ^^
in. in diameter,
and the ribs and
handles are sol-
dered to it. A
strip of galvan-
ized iron, 1/2 in.
wide, was used
for the cutting

portion, and the lower edge was filed
sharp, and then finished with a small
oil stone. In use, the cutter is set over
the fruit, as shown, and by pressure
on the handles, it is cut neatly. — L. N-
Brown, Baltimore, Md.

. MI. J-J

t ^^ c:-CALV IPON
SHABP EDGE-'

454

Detachable Motor-Driven Tire Pump
Made of Foot Pump

To make this motor-driven pump,
which I use with considerable success,
I fitted a bicycle
foot pump to a
stand, arranging
it to be detached
quickly. A 4-in.
wooden disk was
cut in two, and
one-half bolted
to the stirrup of
the pump. A
wheel, 14 in. in
diameter and 3
in. thick, was
mounted on a 2 by 6-in. support, as
shown. A crankpin at the outer edge
of the large wheel was connected to
the plunger of the pump. The latter
may be run with an electric motor,
belted as indicated, or with other
power. I use a small homemade water
motor described in "Shop Notes," with
excellent results. — R. S. Matzen, Fort
Collins, Colo.

Fisherman's Pail with Wire-Mesh Cage

Oftentimes the fisherman takes a
pail along on a fishing excursion so that
he may bring
back his catch
alive, to put it in
a water tank, or
to keep the fish
fresh. The water
in an ordinary
pail soon be-
comes stale, and
the fish may die
before he reach-
es home. They
should be kept in
water of the lake or stream until
fisherman goes home. A good
means of caring for them, superior to
the common string, is to make a wire-
mesh container, to fit inside the water
pail, as shown. The mesh form can be
lifted out, carrying with it all of the
fish in the pail, and be set in the fresh
water. — Dale R. Van Horn, Milton,
Wisconsin.

TIN PAIl.

WIRE-MESH
CAGE.

the
the

Reinforcing a Strained Auto-Truck
Frame

The side member of an automobile-
truck frame was overstrained, and
started to sag. To replace it with a
new channel piece was out of the ques-
tion, so it was decided to 'repair the
trouble. A piece of %6-in. plate steel
was cut to the proper length, in a truss-
shape, wider at the middle than at the
ends, to carry the load properly. It
was riveted to the strained member by
means of ^e-'n. round-head rivets, and
prevented further sagging.

Drying Rack for Shoes and Rubbers

Footgear is injured when not
properly dried out after use in water
or in rough
weather, and to
care for the
shoes, rubbers,
etc., I made a
rack fitted be-
hind a stove on
which they are
dried out
quickly and
thoroughly. The
rack consists of
a row of brackets
made of strap iron, bent as shown in
the sketch, and the shoes are slipped
on them. The brackets are mounted on
a strip of wood, which is fastened to
the wall with screws. A thin piece of
board or sheet metal protects the wall.
— Edgar Morgan, Robbinsdale, Minn.

Keeping Scissors Blades Apart
Lengthens Their Service

Scissors will wear better and keep
their cutting edges longer, if they are
kept hanging up with the blades apart
when not in use. The better-grade scis-
sors, especially the longer pairs, are
made with each blade slightly bowed,
so that in cutting, the edges cross at an
angle near the cutting point. Keeping
them closed tends to weaken the
springiness of the blades, and the points
are worn by contact under tension. —
John M. Bonbright, Philadelphia, Pa.

455

Making Lead Soldiers and Similar Small Castings

By E. R. GARFIELD

THE boy who likes to play games in
which the lead soldier and other
features of imitation warfare have a
part, can make his own lead soldiers,
and other castings, by the use of a
plaster-of-Paris mold. If he cannot
undertake this work alone, the process
is interesting for his older brother, or
even for "daddy." A mold of plaster
of Paris, as shown in the illustration,
is used for the casting box. The hollow
impression of the soldier is filled with
the molten lead, which is poured in
through the sprue hole at the top.
When the lead
cools, the mold is
opened, the cast-
ing removed, and
the process re-
peated. An entire
army can thus be
made with a sin-
gle mold.

First obtain a
small lead soldier,
and coat it with
shellac. Make a
box somewhat
larger than the
pattern for the
soldier, as shown
in the sketch.
Make it about IV2
in. deep, and set
bolts near the cor-
ners, as shown,
pouring the
plaster around them. Fill the box half
full of plaster of Pari5. While still soft,
press the pattern into the center of the
plaster so that half its thickness is im-
bedded. Permit the under mold to dry,
and remove the pattern. Shellac the
surface of the plaster and the impres-
sion. Wrap a layer of oiled paper
around the bolts. Replace the pattern
in the impression and fill the remain-
ing half of the box with plaster, and
permit it to dry.

Also make a small wooden plug, and
set it in the center, its point touching

— UNDER MOLD

Lead Soldiers, and Many Other Small Castings, can
be Made by the Use of This Plaster-of-Paris Mold

the pattern, and pour the plaster around
it. When the mold is dry remove this
plug, thus forming the sprue hole,
through which the molten lead is
poured into the mold.

When the second part of the mold is
dry, lift it carefully from the under
mold, and remove the pattern. Shellac
the surface of the top mold, cleaning
away any small bits of plaster around
the edges. Trim down the box so that
the top mold projects over it about %
in., making it easy to drop the top mold
into place over the bolts. To use the
mold, make cer-
tain that it is clean
inside and set the
top into place.
Fasten down the
wing nuts at the
washers. Be very
careful that the
mold is dry, as hot
metal poured on a
wet surface may
cause a dangerous
splash. Repeat
this process, and
if care is taken,
about 300 castings
can be made witli
one mold. The
soldiers can b e
painted suitably
and even sold in
sets. The process
can be adapted to
many forms of other small castings,
using other suitable metals, or wax.
where the casting is to be molded into
shape further.

A Trap Nest for the Poultry House

Poultry raisers find a trap nest use-
ful, and one can be made quickly by
fitting an old packing box with a suit-
able sliding gate. In the arrangement
shown, the gate is raised slightly as the
hen enters the nest box, releasing the
spring and causing the gate to drop

456

The gate and spring can be adjusted
to various-sized breeds of poultry.
The two groov-ed uprights can be cut

The Trap Nest Automatically Closes as the Hen
Enters the Nest Box, Releasing the Trigger

from flooring and the other wooden
parts made from laths or wooden
strips. The trigger is made of wire. —
A. J. Call, Hartsville, Mass.

A Simple Wireless Detector

A cheap and serviceable wireless de-
tector was made from odds and ends
such as any amateur can obtain. The
base was made of wood, saturated in
parafifin. The mineral cup is a brass cap
from a cartridge fuse. The upright was

/— s|x2x|3ASE

CAT WHISKER
MINERAL

This Neat Wireless Detector was Made of Materials
Easily Gathered in the Boy's Workshop

made of a piece of copper, V^ by 414 in.
long, and is fastened to the base by
an old-battery binding post. The spring
which supports the cat whisker is made

of a strip of copper, H2 in- by %6 in.
wide. The cat whisker is soldered to
the spring, and the spring is bolted to
the upright. The setscrew, which regu-
lates the pressure of the cat whisker
upon the mineral, works in a nut, sol-
dered over a hole in the top of the
upright. The cat whisker is made of
No. 'i2 gauge bare copper wire. The
connection between the cup and the
battery binding post, at the front edge,
is made on the under side of the base.
— Charles Brinkmann, Chicago, 111.

A Wire-Screen Pincushion

Pins placed in a pincushion like that
-hown automatically arrange them-
selves vertically, head up, so that they
may be removed handily when needed.
The pincushion is durable, and a useful
device for the desk. It is made by bind-
ing two layers of ordinary screen wire
between wooden frames, mounted on a
wooden base, Y-i in- thick, 2^2 in- wide.

i"Xg*STRlPS

■• f e'Xi BASE

Pins Placed in This Durable Desk Pincushion Ar-
range Themselves in Vertical Position, Head Up

and 3% in. long. The frame can be
finished neatly, and made of hard wood
to match other desk fittings. — D. J.
McKean, San Francisco, Calif.

Straightening Sheets of Paper

WHien a sheet of paper, a drawing,
or a blueprint becomes curved or
warped, it is annoying to use the sheet
unless it is straightened. An easy
method of doing this is to lay the sheet
flat on the edge of a drawing board or
table and draw it down over the edge,
the hand pressing down on the paper,
stretching it out. This, repeated sev-
eral times, will soon smooth a much-
curled sheet.

457

Emergency Tension Weight Used
on Typewriter

If the band that draws the typewriter
carriage should break, the operator can
continue to write until proper repairs
are made by a temporary substitute for
the spring tension. Tie a string to the
carriage, where it will not become en-
tangled in the mechanism, and attach
a weight, about equal to the pull of the
spring, to the string. Let the weight
hang over the edge of the desk, to the
left of the machine. It will pull the
carriage along, as does the usual ten-
sion device.

Improvised Penholder Made with
Pencil and Clip

An ordinary pencil clip can be used
to make a practical penholder by sliding
it to the end of
the pencil, as
shown, and in-
serting the pen
under it. The
tension o f the
clip holds the
pen firmly, and provides a sen'iceable
holder, for emergency use, or even for
permanent use, where a pen and pencil
combined are desired. — Raymond B.
Rogers, Portland, Ore.

Generator Attachment Provides
Current for Bicycle Lamp

Rigging up a small dynamo on the
bicycle is a simple job, the dynamo
being belted from a friction pulley,
making connections with the rubber
tire of the rear wheel, as shown. Fig.
1 shows the make-up of the head lamp.
It is composed of a tin cylinder,
grooved at one end to hold the lens;
at the other end of the cylinder is
fastened a %-in. wooden disk, to which
the lamp socket is fixed. Clamp straps
hold the lamp on the fork frame. The
small lamp, inserted in the socket,
holds the reflector in place.

The dynamo-driving arrangement is
shown in Fig. 2, and detailed in Fig. 3.
A leather belt fits in the groove side of

the wooden pulley. The swinging pul-
ley arm supports and clamps the driv-
ing arrangement. A spring holds the
friction wheel against the tire, and to

OFF LEVER

The Dynamo is Operated by a Belt Arrangement

Connected to the Rear Wheel, and Supplies Light,

and, if Desired, Operates a Horn

release it, the "off" lever is used. A
small direct-current dynamo ser\'es
well, and may also be used to operate
the horn and whistle. — G. F. Thomp-
son, Pittsburgh, Pa.

Eccentric Drawbolt Stops Rattling
of Door

A simple method of preventing a
bolted door from rattling, by forcing it
against the doorstop, or a weather
strip, by means of an eccentric filed on
the socket end of the bolt, is shown
in the sketch. The bolt is fitted closely
to the door and casing, and, when the

The Eccentric End on the Drawbolt Holds the Door
Firmly, Preventing Rattling

bolt is turned so that the eccentric end
is in action, the door is forced firmly
against the doorstop. — C. H. Chambers,
Schenectady, N. Y.

458

Handy Kink in Addressing Mailing

Tubes

The job of addressing a large number
of mailing tubes is an awkward one,
unless the tube is set so that its upper
edge is on a level

with the hand. A
convenient
method of doing
this, and a kink
which is perma-
nently useful
where mailing
tubes are to be
addressed from
time to time, is
to arrange ordi-
nary coat hooks at the side of the desk
near the front corner, as shown. The
tube is placed on the hooks, its upper
edge even with the top of the desk,
making the writing of the address as
handy as in writing ordinarily.

A Flash-Light Egg-Candling Device

A pocket electric flash light can be
easily used for testing eggs if equipped
in the following manner: Take an
ordinary tin fun-
nel and cut of?
the spout so the
small end will fit
snugly over the
lens of the flash
light. Prepare
the larger end of
the funnel to ac-
commodate
a tin-can cover,
so the cover will
fit tight. Cut
out the face of
the cover, leaving a ^/^-in. rim all
around, and file the edge. Then cut a
1-in. hole in a piece of felt, place it
over the large end of the funnel, and
force the cover over it. This may be
quickly slipped on and ofif the flash
light and carried in the pocket. The
egg to be tested is placed on the felt,
over the opening, and the lamp held
vertically, the operator looking down
on the egg.

Simple Arrangement for Releasing
Camera Shutter from Distance

It is usually disappointing to the
amateur photographer, when taking
pictures of groups of which he is a
member, not to be able to be in the
pictures. However, most amateurs
can construct a release arrangement,
in a few minutes, that operates with
satisfaction. A clothespin of the clip
type is used. The spring should be
weakened by bending it from the wood,
so that it has just enough tension to
bring the jaws of the clothespin to-
gether without a snap. Whittle the
inner sides of the handles, as shown,
so that the jaws accommodate the
plunger of the shutter. Then saw a
slot in the handles, ^4 in. deep and Vs
in. wide. Drill a %r,-in. hole in the
whittled depression of one of the jaws,
and cut a %-in. slot to it, as shown.
The small trig-

JRUBBER BAND '^ gCr plCCe IS CUt

of hard wood. It
should fit its slot
snugly, at the
other end of the
pin.

The release de-
vice is operated
as follows : Slip
the plunger tube,
with the shutter
release cable,
into its slot.
Keeping the jaws
wide open, place the trigger in the slots
of the two compressed handles. It is
only necessary to jerk a thread at-
tached to the trigger to free the two
handles, which in turn snap the
plunger. If the tension on the jaws
is too strong, put a rubber band around
the handles to act as a check. — Werner
AV. Baumeister, Walla Walla, Wash.

CABLE

RELEASE'

A Crossbow Magazine Gun

A new type of bow gun that a boy
can make, and which will give him
plenty of good sport, is one of the re-
peating or magazine variety. To make
the gun, cut a soft pine board, 40 in.

459

long and 5 in. wide. With a saw and
knife, cut the gun form as shown. Cut
a groove along the top of the barrel,
where the arrow will lie ready to be
shot out when the hickory bow is re-
leased. The magazine holding the five
arrows is made of thin boards, 24 in.
long, and is held in place by four small
strips. The magazine is 3 in. deep,
thus permitting the five arrows to lie
evenly in it without crowding. The
bow is of seasoned hickory and is set

BOW^
VIEW OF MUZZLE^

The Arrows are Stacked in the Magazine and Fired

in Succession by the Bowstring Released

at the Trigger

into the end of the barrel. The notch
in which the bowstring catches, should
be cut just under the rear end of the
magazine. The trigger is an L-shaped,
pivoted piece, and pushes the cord off
the notch when ready to fire. As soon
as the first arrow leaves the gun the
one just above it drops down into the
groove when the bowstring is again
pulled back into place behind the notch.
Pressure on the trigger shoots this ar-
row, another takes its place, and the
cord is pulled back once more. The
arrows should be of light pine, 22 in.
long and i [> in. square, the rear end
notched and the front pointed. To
make the arrow shoot in a straight
course, and to give it proper weight, the
head end should be bored with a %r,-in.
bit, 3 in. deep, and melted lead run into
the hole. — E. F. Dalton. Cincinnati,
Ohio.

CRuling pens often work improperly,
or have a tendency to cut the paper
because of tiny feather edges at the
points. These should be carefully
honed and stropped off.

Egg Beater Made into Winder for
Model Aeroplanes

One of the features which take the
joy out of flying elastic-driven model
aeroplanes is the
time taken to wind
them up. For 10
cents and very little
work a fast winder
can be made out of
an ordinary geared
egg beater. Remove
the outer small
pinion and the
revolving beater
attached to it. Then
cut the other beater
off at A, as shown
in the sketch, and
the spindle at B. A
few turns of tinned wire soldered to the
spindle will keep the pinion from slid-
ing off. Another piece of the same
wire may be soldered to the two arms,
at C, to strengthen them. In use, the
hub of the propeller is inserted between
the two arms, as indicated and the rub-
ber wound. — Morris G. Miller. New
Rochelle, N. Y.

LAMP WICK

Stove Lighter with Feeding Wick
Guards against Burns

A stove lighter for gasoline or simi-
lar stoves can be made quickly. Cut
a piece of tin, 7 in. long and 1 in. wide.
Place a lamp
wick on the tin
so that a part of
it projects from
the end of the
tin. Fold the tin
so that the wick
is held, but so
that it can be
drawn out when
needed. Saturate

the wick in kerosene, or other thicker
oil. When wishing to light one or more
burners of the stove, light the wick and
apply it to the burners. The stove can
be lighted with less danger of burning
the hands than when a match is used
directly. — Lee M. Delzell, Maroa, 111.

460

Mechanical Toy Alligator of Wood

A toy alligator that opens its mouth
and wags its tail as it is pulled along
can be made of wood by a boy, with
a jackknife. The various parts, as

tightly in the wheels, so that the lat-
ter can move the axles around with
each turn. The axles are made froin
%-in. wire, bent as shown, and should
be long enough, after passing through
the bottom, to extend through the
wheels on each side. — Charles C. Wag-
ner, Los Angeles, Calif.

FRONT LESS

The Alligator is Drawn Along with a String, and the
Jaws and Tail Flip Up and Down

shown, are cut from soft wood, l/o in.
thick. The method of fastening the
parts is shown in the side sectional
view. When the wheels turn, the cams
A, set on the crank portions of the
wheel axles, raise and lower the jaw
and tail. The upper jaw is 1 in. wide
at the widest part, and 3 in. long. The
lower jaw is smaller, and the same
length. The body is 6 in. long, and
tapering in width from l^-o to % in.
The tail is 4% in. long, and % in. wide.
Holes are drilled in each piece near
the edge, at joining points, through
which wires are drawn, and clamped,
as at B. The legs are shown in de-
tail. They are attached to the body by
drilling a Mo-in. hole in each, and a
hole through the body, through which
the fastenings are passed. The lower
end ol the legs are fastened to the base,
which is 3 by 9 in. long. Square holes,
1 in. wide, near each end, are provided
for the cams A. The axles and wheels
are made as shown. The axles fit

Angle Bracket Gives Leverage
on Door Spring

Frequently, in placing a coil spring
on a screen or other door, the casing
is flush with the door, and it is
difficult to give the spring the de-
sired leverage. If it is attached to
the casing directly, the surface is
marred by the rubbing of the spring.
A good method is to set a small iron
bracket, either homemade of strap iron
or one of the commercial type, on the
casing and attach the end of the spring
to the bracket. This prevents the
spring from rubbing on the door and
casing, and gives it freedom of action.
— Harry L. Dixon, Chicago, 111.

Combination Indirect-Light Reflector
and Mirror

A small mirror combined with a
shaded electric lamp affords a nearly
perfect shaving
lamp, and facial-
toilet mirror.
The mirror
should be 1 in.
smaller all
around than the
reflector. By sol-
d e r i n g two
lengths of stiff
wire to the back
of the mirror
frame, it can be clamped to the re-
flector, as shown. The indirect light
from the reflector illuminates the face
without shadows or glare, adding to
the comfort of shaving. The mirror
can be removed, and the lamp used for
other purposes. — Thomas W. Benson,
Philadelphia, Pa.

CONTENTS

Acetylene Burner, Spray Nozzle Made of. . 248
Acid Jars, Karthen Mustard Pots Used as. . 391

Adhesive Tape, Handy Use for 407

Aerial Cableway, Compensated 198

Aerials, Wireless. Lightning Switch tor 415

Aeroplanes, Model, Egg Beater Made into

Winder for 459

Aid in Ruling Uniform Cards or Sheets.. 420
Air Pump, Protecting Against Denting.... 413
Alarm, Rain, with Drop-of-Water Contact 161
Alcohol Blowtorch for Ditlicult Soldering.. 382
Alcohol, Denatured, to Start Gasoline Stove 413

Alcohol Stove, Emergency 350

Alligator of Wood, Mechanical Toy 460

Alternating Current, Seeing in a Mirror... 392

Aluminum Cooking Utensils, Mending 437

Aluminum-Ware Cleaner, Steel Wool as... 162

Ammeter, Plomemade 253

Animonia-Carrvint; Case for Insect Bites. . 154

Anchor for Canoe or Small Boat 275

Anemometer, Easily Constructed Bail-Bear-
ing 213

Angle Bracket Gives Leverage on Door

Spring 460

Angle of Camera, Photo Copying Lens In-
creases 160

Annunciator Target, Recordins': 310

Apples and Other Fruit, Device Quarters

and Cores 453

Applving and Drying Bronze Powders 338

Appointments and Other Events, Clock De-
vice to liecord Time of 322

Aquarium, Cement Grotto for 235

Arc Light, Homemade 285

Arm. Desk Light, Folds into Pigeonhole... 452

Arm. Detachable Chair 429

Armchair, Enameled, Made of Wooden Strips 129
Arms of a Scarecrow, Swinging Bags on... 340

Army in Small Box 438

Artistic Card Tray 340

Asbe.«tos Table Mats Reinforced with Wire

Netting 421

Ash Trav, Cheese Grater and. Made from a

Tin "Can 225

Ash Tray, Snapper Shell 68

Athletic Equipment Locker, Boys' 439

Atomizer. Bottle Economizes Spray Liquid in 450

Auto Horn for Child's Play Vehicle 16

Auto, Play, Barrel Staves as Springs for... 311
Auto Truck Frame, Reinforcing Strained.. 454

Automatic Fishhook 370

Automatic Flash Light Snaps Chicken-Coop

Marauder 142

Automatic Lock Box for Milk Bottles.... 428
Automatic Photo-Print Washing Device... 329
Automatic Stop for Spring-Roller Curtains 317

Automatic Window Closer 280

Automobile, Bicycle Carried on, as Tender.. 190
Automobile Seat. Porch Swing Made from.. 425
Automobile, Suitcase Holder for Running

Board of 329

Baby-Cab Tires, Changing Wheels Equalizes

Wear on 446

Baby Crib, Neat and Economical, Made from

a Clothes Basket 206

Babv, Motor-Driven Entertainer for 4

Baby, Washstand for 328

Baby's Plav Area, Portable Fence for 195

Back Rest, Folding Ground Seat with 190

Backing Picture Frame, Plier Drives Nails

in 450

Backstop. Knock-Down Tennis-Court 189

Backwoodsman's Nutcracker 450

Bags, Swinging, on Arms of Scarecrow. . . . 340

Bait Cache, Campers' 171

Bait Casting for Game Fish 71

Bait, Catching Minnows for 168

Bait. Luminous-IMinnow Fish 314

Bali-Bearing Anemometer, Easily Con-
structed 213

Balloons. Toy Rubber. Filling with Hydrogen 30

Band, Metal. Stiffens Brush 367

Bare Spots on Lawns, Seeding 167

Bark-Covered Porch Light and Plant Shelf 432

Barnyard Gate Operated with the Foot.... 208

Barometer. Simple 415

Barrel. Cushioned Chair Made of 440

Barrel Staves as Springs for Play Auto... 311

Base, Weighting Metal 217

Baseball Playing, To Practice Batting for.. 100

Basement, Signal for Lighted Lights in 314

Basin, Dish-Draining, Old Sink Installed as 452

Basin. Simple Metal Bird 432

Basket, Hourglass Sewing 137

Bathroom Kinks, Three 402

Battery Buzzer Converted into a Telegraph

Sounder 141

Battery Circuits, Homemade Fuses for 151

Batting for Baseball Playing, To Practice. . 100

Bazaar or Fair Booth, Rustic Well for 182

Bearing for Playground Swings 276

Bearing Made of Brass Cartridge 382

Beating, Hanging Heavy Rug on Line for 389
Bed, Antique Signboard Made of Headboard

of 15

Bed, Folding Card Table Handy for Invalid

in 308

Bed Table, Adjustable and Pivoted, Attached

to Bedpost 9

Bedpost, Adjustable and Pivoted Bed Ta-
ble Attached to 9

Bedroom Night Light, Flash Light Used as 423
Bedroom Shade and Curtains Arranged for

Thorough Ventilation 128

Bedsteads. Old, Lawn Benches Made from 174

Bee Feeder for Winter Use 192

Bell, Call, Curious Support for 362

Bell-Circuit Wiring, Tinned Staples for... 420

Bell-Ringing Hoop. Child's 449

Bell-Ringing Mail Box 422

Belt for Sprocket Drive Made of Brass Strips 160

Bench, Clamping a Wide Board on 248

Bench Receptacles for Small Articles 350

Bench Stop 395

Bench Support for a Miter Box 336

Bench Vise. Quick-Acting 85

Benches, Lawn, Made from Old Bedsteads.. 174
Berth, Train, Iinproved Trousers Hanger in 367
Bicycle Carried on Automobile as Tender. . 190
Bicycle Fitted Up to Resemble Motorcycle.. 441

Bicycle-Handle Grip on Rake Handle 372

Bicycle Lamp, Generator Attachment Pro-
vides Current for 457

Bicycle, Parcel-Delivery, Sidecar for 40*7

Bicycle Pump, Cleaning Type Cases with... 451
Bicycle Pump, Pneumatic Door Check Made

of 169

Bicycle, Rear Seat for Motorcycle or 446

Bicycle Runners for Winter Use 418

Bicycles Driven as Three-Wheel Tandem

After Breakdown 410

Bilgt! Water Siphoned Through Water-

.Tacket Outlet 413

Billfold, Craftsman Leather 446

Billfold, Squirrel-Skin 265

Binder for Magazines, Temporary 370

Binding, Knife to Trim Magazine's for 286

Birch-Bark Leggings Made in the WocJ3... 421

Bird Basin, Simple Metal 432

Bird House Made of Kegs 134

Bird House Made of Old Straw Hat 181

Bird Photography. Camera for 426

Bird Table. Cat-Proof 76

Bites, Insect, Ammonia-Carrying Case for.. 154
Blades, Propeller. How to Make Quickly... 395
Blind Person, Homemade Device Aids in

Writing 438

Block Plane Converted for Use on Circular

Work 211

Blotter Attached to Wrist Saves Time 295

Blotter. Trick 354

Blotting Paper, White, Improves Light Re-
flectors 196

Blower for a Fireplace 318

Blowpipe for Gas 336

Blowtorch. Alcohol, for Difficult Soldering. . 382

Blue Roses Tinged by Chemicals 406

Board, Sliding, for Coasting 14

Board. Wide. Clamping on a Bench 248

Boat, Canoe or. Stored in Pulley Slings 361

Boat, Portable Folding 135

Boat, Small, Canoe or. Anchor for 275

Boats, Model Paddle-Wheel 443

Book and Document Protector 294

Book Form. Keeping Magazines in. 378

Book Holder. Homemade 193

Book Rest for Music Stand 328

Book, Specimen. Preserving Leaves in 10

Bookcase and Writing Desk, Combination.. 316

461

462

Bookcase, Trunk, for Convenient Shipment.. 217

Bookmark, Leather and Silk 218

Bookshelf. Index for Popular Mechanics

Magazine on 308

Bookshelf. Secret Trinket Case for 2a6

Booth, Bazaar or Fair. Rustic Well for.... 182

Bottle Carrier Made of Pipe Straps 217

Bottle, Die in 276

Bottle Economizes Spray Liquid in Atomizer 450

Bottle, Glass, as a Candle Lamp 291

Bottle, Glass, Cutting with Electricity 230

Bottle, To Uncork, with a String 402

Boughs, Springy Hammock Support Made of 369
Bo.x, Automatic Lock, for Milk Bottles.... 428

Box Camera, Direct View Finder for 353

Box Cover, Hinged. Made Without Hinges.. 141

Box Cover Without Hinges 46

Box End, Scoop Made of 433

Box for Campers, Table 124

Box Farm, Fort Built of Snow Blocks Made

in 409

Box, Hinged Window 413

Bo.x, Loading, to Dispense with Dark Room 268

Box, Novel Covered, for Index Trays 414

Bo.x, Pasteboard, Shortening 337

Box, Small, Army in . . 438

Box to Protect Extra Spark Plugs 440

Boxes, Decorative Toys and. Made at Home 299

Boy Can Make LTseful Periscope 305

Boys' Athletic-Equipment Locker 439

Boys' Motor Car, Homemade 1

Bracelet, One-Piece, Cut from Calling Card 319
Bracket. Angle, Gives Leverage on Door

Spring 460

Bracket for Garden Hose, Practical 417

Bracket. Gas-Hose, for Ironing or Shop Use 366

Brake, Safety, Coaster with 273

Brass Candlestick, Repairing 372

Brass Cartridge. Bearing Made of 382

Brass IVIachine Screws with Nuts 68

Brass Strips, Belt for Sprocket Drive Made

of 160

Brass Tip on Cartridge Fuse, Bushing Made

of 393

Brick Walls. Wire Trellis Fastened Neatly to 8
Bristles in Polish or Stencil Brushes, Wire

Compacts 439

Broken Canoe Paddle, Repairing 158

Broken Coffee Pot Knob, Replacing 226

Broken Fly-Screen Frame, Repairing 356

Broken Liquid Column in Thermometer,

Joining 366

Broken Metal Cross, Repairing 389

Broken Places on Enamel. Filling in 178

Broken Reed Handle, Repairing 187

Broken Spade Handle Repaired with Water

Pipe 242

Bromide Enlargements, Curved Printing

Surface for Sharp Focus in 186

Bromide Enlargements, Test Exposure for.. 411

Bromide Enlargements, Washing 336

Bronze Powders, Applying and Drying 338

Brooder 371

Brooding House, Chick, Shield for Heater in 295

Broom. Moving Heavy Objects "with 445

Brush and Container, Mucilage, Made of a

Test Tube 335

Brush-Cutting Knife, Pruning and 449

Brush, Metal Band Stiffens 367

Brushes, Polish or Stencil, Wire Compacts

Bristles in 439

Buggy Shafts. Old, Toboggan Made of 410

Buggy Springs. Discarded, for Diving Board 429

Bulb, Light. Testing Dry Cells with 267

Bumpers, Door. Raise Height of Chair 358

Bungalow, California, for Canaries 437

Bunghole, Stopper for 254

Burns. Stove Lighter with Feeding Wick

Guards Against 459

Bushing Made of Brass Tip on Cartridge

Fuse 393

Button Clasps. Old. Practical Uses for 432

Buttonhole-Bouquet Holder to Keep Cut

Fowers Fresh 149

Buttonhook,. Fancy, How to Make 371

Buttonhook. Screwdriver Made from 362

Buttons, Miniature Push 251

Butts. Plain. Used as Double-Swing Hinge 330
Buzzer. Battery, Converted into a Telegraph

Sounder 141

Cabinet and Table, Combination Camp-
Kitchen 126

Cabinet Doors, Wire Holders Keep Open... 127

Cabinet, Homemade Talking Machine 310

Cabinet, Magic 345

Cabinet or Cellarette, Smoker's as

Cabinet. Sportsman's, for Guns, Equipment

and Books 434

Cabinetwork, Storage of Wood for...! 309

Cableway, Compensated Aerial joo

Cage, Wire-Mesh, Fisherman's Pail with" 454

Cakes, Pop-Corn, How to Make ''" 153

Calendar, Perpetual ' ' 4?

California Bungalow for Canaries 437

Calipers, Homemade " ' 373

Call Bell, Curious Support for .[ 352

Calling Card, One-Piece Bracelet Cut from 319
Camera, Box. Direct View Finder for. 353

Camera, Enlarging, Improvised Post- Card

Projector and 209

Camera for Bird Photography 42$

Camera for Taking Pictures "from Kite..!" 52
Camera Shutter, Simple Arrangement for

Releasing from Distance 45g

Camera, Submarine " 219

Camera, Substitute for Ground Glass'in!!!! 236
Camera, Photo-Copying Lens Increases An-
gle of 150

Camera Tripod, Tilting Top for 242

Camera View Finder. Rectangular Opening

to Use Over 125

Cameras, Enlarging. Focusing Screen for!!! 388

Camp Chest. Guarding Against Theft 362

Camp Equipment, Care and Storage of 304

Camp Fire, Utensil Rack for 397

Camp-Kitchen Cabinet and Table. Combina-
tion 125

Camp Lantern Made of a Tin Can !!! 406

Camp or Kitchen, Slicing Board for 247

Camp, Shaving Lamp and Mirror for ' 16'

Camp Shelter Affords Protection from Mos-
quitoes 181

Camp Stoves, Emergency, Quickly Made.!' 441
Camp, Summer, Diving Tower for . . . 274

Camp Water Bag ; 192

Camper's Bait Cache 171

Camper's Salt-and-Pepper Holder " 115

Campers, Table Box for ]24

Campfire, Water Wheel Turns Spit'dver!! 429
Camping and Outing Trips, Memorandum

List for 355

Camping Out. Tricks of:

Part L — The Camping Outfit 109

Part II. — Cooking in the Woods 117

Can. Come-Back Rolling 298

Can, Tin. Camp Lantern Made of ! ! ' 406

Canal, Current of. Raises Irrigation Water 4U
Canaries, California Bungalow for . . . 437

Candle Lamp. Glass Bottle as ' 291

Candle, Lighting Without Touching the Wick 334

Candles, Magic, Explained 355

Candlestick, Brass. Repairing " 372

Candlestick Mission ' go

Candlesticks, Sectional Spun-Metal, Repair-
ing 3g2

Candlesticks Wired Neatly for Electric

Lamps 5

Candy Figures, Hollow, Mold for aiakVng.'.' 122
Cane Made of Tubing Contains Cigars 430

Cane. Turned, with Snakes Inlaid 3''5

Cannon-Shell Dinner Bell ... . 399

Cannon Shell, Miniature, Match Safe of'!!!! 335
Canoe, How to Build:

Part I. — Specifications and List of Mate-
rials 77

Part II. — Sailing the Open Paddling Ca-
noe 85

Part HI. — Fitting a Motor into a Paddling

Canoe 89

Canoe or Boat Stored in Pullev Slings ' 361

Canoe or Small Boat, Anchor for '>75

Canoe Paddle, Repairing Broken 158

Canoe, Paddling Tour Own:

Part I. — Kinds of Canoes 95

Part II. — Knack of Handling the Paddle.' 102

Canoe. Patching Canvas Bottom of 4.'?0

Cans, Large. Wheelbarrow for 330

Cans. Nail Carrier Made of 414

Canteen. How to Make ' 54

Canvas Bottom of a Canoe. Patching 430

Carbon Electric Water Heater... 356

Card Deception. Simple ''' ]68

Card Frame, Enchanted !!!!! 194

Card Index. Removal Marker for 37'

Card or Ticket Holder. Revolving... 369

Card Table, Folding, Handy for Invalid in

^ Bed 308

Card. Tossing at Mark Accuratelv 69

Card Tray. Artistic ". 340

Card Trick, Diminishing !!!!!!!!! 396

Card, Written, Magically Naming !!!!! 61

463

Cardboard Creaser 378

Cardboard. Dies for Cutting: 315

Cardboard Tubes for Electrical Coils, Mak-
ing 438

Cardboard Writing and Drawing Pad 130

Cards, Feeding into Typewriter 437

Cards or Sheets, Uniform, Aid in Ruling . . 420

Care and Storage of Camp Equipment 304

Care of Umbrellas. Kinks on 422

Caring for Files, Testing and 400

Carrying Strap and Lock for Hand Cases.. 328
Cart for Carrying Huge Drum in Parade . . 435

Cartridge, Brass, Bearing Made of 382

Cartridge Fuse, Bushing Made of Brass Tip

on 393

Case, Ammonia-Carrying, for Insect Bites . 154
Case for Fishhooks Made of a Tin Can .... 267

Case, Waterproof Dry-Battery 265

Cases of Drawers, Simple Concealed Locking

Device for 4

Caster Board for Scrubbing and Floorwork 293
Caster Supports, Handy Parcel Carrier with 6

Casting. Bait, for Game Fish 71

Castings. Similar Small, Making Lead Sol-
diers and 455

Castings Without Patterns 374

Cat-and-Bells Scarecrow 426

Cat-Proof Bird Table 76

Catch-All Screen Inside Hot-Air Register.. 432

Catching Large Fish with a Teaspoon 401

Cedar Oil. Treating Closets with 208

Cellarette, Smoker*s Cabinet or 32

Celluloid Cover for Road Maps 295

Cement Grotto for an Aquarium 235

Cement Plant, Miniature 383

Chain Weight Prevents Whipping of Flag 409
Chains. Ga.^-Fixture, Sleeve Aids in Dis-
tinguishing 247

Chair Arm. Detachable 429

Chair, Cushioned. Made of Barrel 440

Chair, Door Bumpers Raise Height of 358

Chair, High 318

Chair. Morris, with Newspaper Rack anfl

Smoker's Trays 309

Chair. Removable Headrest for 432

Chair Seat. Convenient Tool Drawer Under 169
Changing Wlieels Equalizes Wear on Baby-
Cab Tires 446

Check. Honteniade Screen-Door 392

Checking a Rip in Tire Tubes 354

Cheese Grater and Ash Tray Made from a

Tin Can , 225

Chemicals. Roses Tinged Blue bv 406

Chest. Camp. Guarding Against Theft 362

Chest Expander, Comic, for Play or Stage

Use 4 29

Chest. Homemade. Linoleum Panels for 425

Chest Lock. Making More Secure 94

Chests, Miniature Metal-Bound 287

Chick Brooding House. Shield for Heater in 295
Chicken-Coop Marauder, Automatic Flash

Light Snaps 142

Child, Spoon Attachment to Prevent from

Using Left Hand 317

Child's Bell-Ringing Hoop 449

Child's Play Vehicle, Auto Horn for 16

Child's Swing Built of Pipes in Narrow-
Space ; 358

Chimes, Set of Electric 368

China Banding Wheel. Disk Talking Ma-
chine as 10

Choke and Pattern of a Gun 63

Chopping Block. Safety 187

Churn Attachment, 'Washing Machine

Equipped with 208

Chute. Gravity Deliverv. Fruit-Picking Pole

with 367

Cigar and Pipe Lighter. Xon-Blow-Out. . . . 321

Cigars. Cane Made of Tubing Contains 430

Cipher Code, Simple 224

Circular Swing 177

Circular Work, Block Plane Converted for

Use on 211

Clamp. Tennis-Racket. Opening Springs for 393

Clamping a Wide Board on a Bench 248

Clasps. Old Button, Practical Uses for 432

Cleaner. Comb 70

Cleaning a Clock with Kerosene Fumes.... 324

Cleaning a Typewriter. Kinks in 6

Cleaning. Pole Supports Rug for 10

Cleaning Silverware 158

Cleaning Tinware with Milk 44

Cleaning Type Cases with Bicycle Pump... 451
Cleanly Pencil Sharpener 247

Cleat and Pulley Fastenings ■ to Adjust

Clothesline 211

Climbing Ring, Mystic 22

Clip Holds Flash-Lamp on Handlebar as

Headlight 450

Clipping File Made of Envelopes 125

Clock. Cleaning with Kerosene Fumes 324

Clock Device to Record Time of Appoint-
ments and Other Events 322

Clock, Electrical Device Transmits Striking

of 14

Clock Hand. Magic 347

Clock. Muffling the Ticking of a Watch or 223

Clocks for the Craftsman 41

Clocks. Oiling Tool for 107

Clod Rake Protects Corn in Cultivating.... 362

Closet, Rigging Economizes Space in 433

Closets, Treating with Cedar Oil 208

Clothes Basket, Neat and Economical Baby

Crib Made from 206

Clothes Drier. Umbrella Used as 366

Clothesline, Cleat and Pulley Fastenings to

Adjust 211

Clothespin-Basket Hook 400

Coal Hod Made from Iron Pipe 129

Coal Hopper, Gravity Feed, on Truck 140

Coaster Steering Gear Made from Cream-

Preezer Drive 161

Coaster with Safety Brake 273

Coasting. Sliding Board for 14

Coasting Toboggan. Making a 11

Coat Hook. Wire. To Prevent from Turning 235.

Cocoanut-Shell Trays 414

Code, Simple Cipher 224

Coffee Can and Broom Handle, Corn Popper

Made from 212

Coffee Grinder Repaired with Rubber Faucet

Plug 129

Coffee Pot Knob. Replacing Broken 226

Coiled Springs. Winding 134

Coils. Electrical, Making Cardboard Tubes

for 438

Collar Button. Emergency 10

Colonial Mirror Frame 306

Colors. Reproducing Flowers and Leaves in 152
Colors, Two, Writing on Plain-Ribbon Type-
writer 168

Comb Cleaner 70

Combination Bookcase and 'Writing Desk... 316
Combination Indirect-Light Reflector and

Mirror 460

Combination Laundry Tub and Dishwash-
ing Sink 218

Combination Lock. Effective, Easily Made.. 431

Combination 'Workshop Seat 370

Combined Kites. How to Make:

Part L — A Dragon Kite 145

Part II — A Festooned Kite 155

Combined Label and Cover Pad for Preserve

Glasses 4

Come-Back Rolling Can 298

Comic Chest Expander for Play or Stage Use 429

Common Mistakes in Model Making 394

Compact Galvanometer 42

Compensated Aerial Cableway 198

Concealing the House Key 70

Concrete Water Basin for Poultry 236

Condenser. Small "\'ariable 334

Contact. Drop-of-Water. Rain Alarm with.. 161
Containers. Pouring Liquids Quickly from.. 21
Contents of Unsealed Envelopes, Safeguard-
ing 363

Controller, Simple Motor 250

Cooker, Lamp 294

Cooking in the Woods 117

Cooking Utensils. Aluminum, Mending 437

Cooler for Developing Tray 149

Cooling Foodstuffs with a Moist Rag and a

Draft 453

Coop for Sitting Hens 360

Cord, Telephone, Rubber Band Prevents Tan-
gling of 367

Cord L^sed as Spacer for Curtain Rings.... 211
Cork Plugs Save Wear on Drafting Board.. 21

Corks, Pad for Glass Vessels Made of 161

Corn, Clod Rake Protects in Cultivating... 362
Corn Popper IMade from Coffee Can and

Broom Handle 212

Corners, Diagonal, on Disk-Record Covers.. 442

Corners. Metal Floor 248

Correcting. Inserting or, on Typewritten

Bound Sheets 419

Corrugating Strips. Device for 421

Cottage, Tuberculosis 385

464

Couch Spring. Removing Sag from 430

Couches, Substitute for Rivets in 371

Counter, Easily Made 401

Countersinlving a Hole Smoothly 345

Counterweight, Trimming Board with Foot

Control 308

Counting Glass, Electric, for Thread Fabric 321

Cover, Box. Without Hinges 4C

Cover Fastener. Kev Ring Used as 430

Cover for Road Maps. Celluloid 295

Cover, Hinged Box, Made Without Hinges... 141

Cover. Safety, for Valves on Gas Stove.... 298

Cover, Tin. Frying Pan Made of 298

Covering Hinge Wings 276

Covers' Disk-Record. Diagonal Corners on... 442

Covers for Jars. Removable Paraffin 298

Cow's Tail, "Switchboard," Protects Milker

from 128

Coyotes. Trap for 306

Craftsman, Clocks for 41

Craftsman Leather Billfold 44G

Crates and Furniture, Three-Caster Truck

for Moving 419

Cream-Freezer Drive, Coaster Steering Gear

Made from 161

Creaser. Cardboard 378

Creeper. Ice 94

Cross. Broken Metal. Repairing 389

Crossbow Ma^razine Gun 458

Cue Alley. Parlor 341

Cultivating. Clod Rake Protects Corn in... 362

Cup. Trophy, Onlaying Script on 188

Cupboard for Kitchen Utensils 396

Cupboard. Summer Radiator Cover Serves as,

in Winter 297

Curious Support for Call Bell 362

Curling-Iron Heater 130

Current, Alternating, Seeing in a Mirror.... 392
Current for Bicycle Lamp, Generator At-
tachment Provides 457

Current of Canal Raises Irrigation Water. . 411

Curtain, Raising and Lowering at a Distance 22

Curtain Rings, Cord Used as Spacer for. . . . 211

Curtains. Automatic Stop for Spring-Roller 317
Curved Printing Surface for Sharp Focus in

Bromide Enlargements 186

Cushion. Emery Needle, on Sewing Machine 1^7

Cushioned Chair IMade of Barrel 440

Cutter. Groo^'e. for Wood 45

Cutting Cardboard. Dies for 315

Cutting Glass Bottle with Electricity 230

Cylinder Reversing Switch 297

Damp Walls. Shielding Picture from 338

Dancer. Electrical 357

Dark. Locating Droplight in 31

Dark-Room Light. Emergency 94

Dark Room, Loading Box to Dispense with 268
Dark-Room Use, Red Lens Hinged to Flash

Light for 6

Dark Room. Windo^v Frame and Table for. . 320
Dark. To Keep Tan Shoes from Turning.... 377

Darning Needle. Threading 153

Deception. Simple Card 168

Decorative Toys and Boxes Made at Home. . 299
Decoys. Duck. Mounted on Folding Frame.. 188
Delivery Chute, Gravity, Fruit-Picking Pole

with 367

Delivery Routes, Order-Memo Device for. ... 44;J
Denatured Alcohol to Start Gasoline Stove.. 413

Dent in Edge, Teakettle Cover Held by 5

Dental Floss, Sanitary Holder for 'Thread

and 46

Denting. Protecting Air Pump Against 412

Deodorizing Lard Buckets 340

Depth, Homemade Fishing Float Adjustable

to 8

Desk, Folding Wall 292

Desk, Improvised Typewriter 225

Desk Lamp, Small, Supported by Paper

Weight 424

Desk-Light Arm Folds into Pigeonhole 452

Desk Slide in Top of Drawer 356

Desk Watch Holder 158

Desk, Writing. Combination Bookcase and. . . 316

Detachable Chair Arm 429

Detachable. Making Umbrella Handle 439

Detachable Motor-Driven Tire Pump Made

of Foot Pump 454

Developer, Heater Keeps at Proper Tempera-
ture 190

Developing Films. Tray Attachment for.... 280
Developing or Etching-Tray Rocker 218

Developing-Paper Printer 375

Developing. Photographic. Film Holder for' 45'>

Developing Roll Films. New Method of... 339

Developing Tank, Reversible Photographic 325

Developing Tray, Cooler lor 149

Device, Electrical, Transmits Striking of

Clock n

Device for Corrugating Strips 4'>l

Device Frightens Flies at Screen Door 4'>5

Device Quarters and Cores Apples and Other

Fruit 453

Diagonal Corners on Disk-Record Covers!! 442

Die in a Bottle 276

Dies for Cutting Cardboard !! 315

Diminishing Card Trick 390

Dining Table. Gas Stove for ! ! 373

Dinner Bell. Cannon-Shell 399

Dipping Water, Valve-Bottom Pail for 344

Direct Current Polarity, Testing with Lit-
mus Paper 359

Direct View Finder for Box Camera 353

Disappearing-Coin Trick 144

Disappearing Towei 154

Discarded Buggy Springs for Diving Board 4 29

Dish-Draining Basin, Old Sink Installed as 452

Dishes, Scraper for 337

Dishwasher and Drier 152

Dishwashing Sink, Combination Laundry

Tub and 218

Disk-Record Covers. Diagonal Corners on.. 442
Disk Talking-Machine Records Played Ec-
centrically 328

Disks. Cutting Thin Wooden 16

Dissolving Vie"n^s, Fireside 351

Diving Board. Discarded Buggy Springs for 429

Diving Tower for the Summer Camp 274

Document Protector, Book and 294

Door Bumpers Raise Height of Chair 358

Door Check, Pneamatic, Made of Bicycle

Pump 169

Door, Eccentric Drawbolt Stops Rattling of 457

Door Latch. Quickly Made 123

Door Latch. Poultry-House, Spring Roost

Releases 448

Door or Window. Rustic. Trellis to Shade.. 1'75

Door, Rope Pad Prevents Slamming of 440

Door Spring, Angle Bracket Gives Lever-
age on 460

Doorbell Push Button on Screen Door 150

Double-Contact Vibrator 140

Double Roofs Provide Ideal Shade for Poul-
try Coops 180

Double-Swing Hinge. Plain Butts Used as. . 330
Draft. Moist Rag and. Cooling Foodstuffs

with 453

Draft. Smoking of Lamp Overcome by In-
creasing 361

Drafting Board. Cork Plugs Save W^ear on 21

Drawbolt. Eccentric, Stops Rattling of Door 457

Drawer, Desk Slide in Top of 356

Drawer Handles. Preventing Looseness of. . 357

Drawer, Refuse-Catching. Wood Box with.. 144

Drawer Stop. Removable 10

Drawing Board, Tool Sockets in Edge of... 435

Drawings, How to Transfer 138

Drawings, Tracing-Cloth, Mounting on Mus-
lin 418

Dressing for Fishline 397

Drier, Dishwasher and 152

Drill, Hand. Polishing with 354

Drinking-Glass. Handle for 125

Drinking-Glass Holder 134

Drinking-GIass Holders Easily Made 197

Drinking Tube, Sanitary 69

Driving Nails, Kink for 193

Driving Nails to Prevent Splitting 373

Driving Screws in Hard Wood 94

Driving Thin Metal into Wood 247

Drop-of-Water Contact. Rain Alarm with... 161

Droplight. Locating in Dark 31

Drum. Huge, Cart for Carrying in Parade.. 435

Dry-Battery Case, Waterproof 265

Dry Batteries. Renewing with Sal-Ammoniac 14

Dry Cell and Motor. Toy Tractor Built with 9

Dry Cells, Testing with Light Bulb 267

Dry-Cleaning Mixture 62

Dry-Plate Kit, Inexpensive 326

Drying Bronze Powders, Applying and 338

Drying Photo Films Rapidly 338

Drying Rack for Shoes and Rubbers 454

Drying Small Fur Hides. Stretcher for 421

Duck Decoys Mounted on Folding Frame... 188

465

Earth, Device for Packing in Transplanting 211
Earthen Mustard Pots Used as Acid Jars.. 391
Echo on Talking Machine, Split Needle

Causes :;17

Economy in Motorcycle Tires 188

Edge ot Table or Window, Folding Ironing

Board Clamps on Edge of 8

Edges, Round and Flat, Ruler with 350

Effective Combination Lock Easily Made... 431
Efficiency of Electrically Heated Devices, To

Determine 390

Egg Beater Made into Winder for Model

Aeroplanes 458

Egg-Candling Device, Flash-Llght 458

Eggshells as Flowerpots 310

Eight-Pointed Star Kite 159

Electric Chimes, Set of 368

Electric Counting Glass for Thread Fabric 321

Electric Fan an Aid to Heating Room 426

Electric Iron. Variety of Uses for 14

Electric Lamps, Candlesticks Wired Neatly

for 5

Electric Light, Automatic, on Talking-Ma-
chine Cabinet 162

Electric-Light Fixture, Homemade Inverted 435
Electric Locomotive Model and Track Sys-
tem, Homemade:

Part I. — The Motor 231

Part II. — Construction of the Locomotive

Truck and Cab 237

Part III. — Construction of the Track Sys-
tem 243

Electric Lure for Fish 123

Electric Motor, Quickly Made Toy 252

Electric Sparks, Photographing 399

Electric Stove, Fifty-Cent 260

Electric Water Heater, Carbon 356

Electrical Apparatus, How to Wind Wire on 136
Electrical Coils, Making Cardboard Tubes

for 438

Electrical Dancer 357

Electrical Device Transmits Striking of

Clock 14

Electrical Devices, Small, Water Rheostat

for 196

Electrical Fixture Parts, Inexpensive Table

Lamp JIade of 127

Electrical Heating Apparatus, Table Sock-
ets for 396

Electrically Heated Devices, To Determine

Efficiency of 390

Electricity, Cutting Glass Bottle with 230

Electromagnetism, E.xperiment in 1.t6

Ellipsograph, Homemade 258

Emergency Alcohol Stove 350

Emergency Camp Stoves Quickly Made 449

En .rgency Dark-Room Light 94

Emergency Lifting Device of Rope and Lever 334

Emergency Oarlock of Rope 218

Emergency Oars, Take-Down 395

Emergency Tension Weight Used on Type-
writer 457

Emery Grinder, Wood Turning on 402

Emerv Needle Cushion on Sewing Machine 197

Empty Paste Pot, Utilizing 306

Emptying Wastebasket, False Bottom for. 344

Enamel, Filling in Broken Places on 178

Enamel for Steel Fishing Rods 349

Enchanted Card Frame 194

Engine, Motorcycle, Homemade Roadster

with 437

Enlargements. Bromide, Curved Printing

Surface for Sharp Focus in 186

Enlargements, Bromide, Test Exposure for 411
Enlargements, Scale, Making with a Rubber

Band 175

Enlargements, Washing Bromide 336

Enlarging Camera. Improvised Post-Card

Projector and 209

Enlarging Cameras, Focusing Screen for.. 388
Entertainer for the Baby. Motor Driven.... 4

Envelopes, Clipping File Made of 125

Envelopes, Filing, Making Quickly 417

Envelopes, Unsealed, Safeguarding Contents

of 363

Etching-Trav Rocker, Developing or 21S

Events, Clock Device to Record Time of Ap-
pointments and Other 322

Exerciser, Pulley and Weight, Homemade in

the Orient 365

Experiment in Electromagnetism 156

Experimental Lead Screw, How to Make... 31

Experimenter, Heater for 43

Exposures, Test, for Bromide Enlargements 411

Extension, Homemade Suit Case 360

Eyebolts, Homemade 376

Fair Booth, Bazaar or. Rustic Well tor.... 182
False Bottom for Emptying Waste Basket 344

Fan, Hand-Operated Whirling 398

Fan, Lighted Whirling, Used as Radiator

Ornament 260

Fancy Buttonhook, How to Make 371

Fastenings to Adjust Clothesline. Cleat and

Pulley 211

Feather as X-Ray Lens 412

Feeding Cards into Typewriter 437

Feeding Geese in a Poultry Yard 373

Feeding Pan for Poultry 248

Fence, Portable, for Baby's Play Area 195

Fence Posts, Preventing Wire Mesh from

Rising Between 93

Fencing, Portable Sectional Poultry 329

Ferrules for Tool Handles 157

Fiber Phonograph Needles, Device for Sharp-
ening 361

Fifty-Cent Electric Stove 260

Fighting Tank, Miniature 202

Figures, Hollow Candy, Mold for Making. . 122

File, Clipping, Made of Envelopes 125

Files, Testing and Caring for 400

Filing Envelopes, Making Quickly 417

Filing System, Photographic-Negative 434

Filling in Broken Places on Enamel 178

Filling Toy Rubber Balloons with Hydrogen 30
Film Holder for Photographic Developing.. 4ri2

Films, Photo, Drying Rapidly 338

Films, Photographic, Stenciling "with 416

Films, Roll. New Method of Developing... 339
Films, Tray Attachment for Developing.... 280
Finger Nail. Playing Talking-Machine Rec-
ords with 187

Finger-Trap Trick 377

Finger Tug-of-War Game, Device for 319

Fire, Inexpensive Imitation 226

Fire Screen. Portable 68

Fireplace, Blower for 318

Fireside Dissolving Views 351

Fish Bait, Luminous-Minnow 314

Fish Catch. Whistle Warns of 275

Fish, Electric Lure for 123

Fish, Game, Bait Casting for 71

Pish, Large, Catching with a Teaspoon 4(11

Fish Lines, Waterproofing for 94

Fish Poles. Making Round Rods for 40

Fish Scaler 1^4

Fisherman's Pail with Wire-Mesh Cage 454

Fishhook, Automatic 370

Fishhooks, Case for. Made of a Tin Can.... 267
Fishing Float, Homemade, Adjustable to

Depth 8

Fishing Rods, Steel, Enamel for 349

Fishing-Tackle Outfit in a Shotgun Shell.. 142

Fishline, Dressing for 397

Fishline, Gourd Float for 285

Fixture. Homemade Inverted Electric-Light 435
Flag, Chain Weight Prevents Whipping of 409

Flag, Weighted Rope Holds Upright 451

Flash Lamp. Clip Holds on Handlebar as

Headlight 450

Flash Lamps, Pocket, Improvement on 267

Flash Light, Automatic. Snaps Chicken-Coop

Marauder 142

Plash Light Egg Candling Device 458

Flash Light. Red Lens Hinged to, for Dark-

Room Use 6

Flash Light Used as Bedroom Night Light 423

Flatiron Polisher 399

Flatiron, Sheet-Metal Stand for 182

Flies at Screen Door. Device Frightens. . . . 425

Float, Gourd, for a Fishline 285

Floor Corners, Metal 248

Floor Trapdoor, Fuel Box in Seat Filled

from 332

Flooring Groove, Planing Thin Sticks Held

in 218

Ploorwork, Caster Board for Scrubbing and 293
Flower Centerpiece. Wire-Mesh Support for 344

Flowerpots. Eggshells as 310

Flowers and Leaves. Reproducing in Colors 152
Flowers. Cut, Buttonhole-Bouquet Holder to

Keep Fresh 149

Flowers, Potted. Turntable Stand for 308

Flowers, Window-Box, Watering 144

Flue Stopper, Safety, Made of Tin Pail 328

Fluorescent Screen, How to Make 92

466

Fly-Screen Frame, Repairing a Broken 356

Focus, Sharp, in Bromide Enlargements,

Curved Printini; Surface for 18B

Focusing Screen for Enlarging Cameras... 388

Folding Boat, Portable 135

Folding Card Table Handy for Invalid in

Bed 308

Folding Ground Seat with Back Rest 190

Folding Ice Sled 44

Folding Ironing Board Clamps on Edge of

Table or Window S

Folding Table with Split-Bamboo Tray for

Top 424

Folding Wall Desk 292

Foodstuffs, Cooling with a Moist Rag and a

Draft 453

Foot. Barnvard Gate Operated with 208

Foot Control and Counterweight, Trimming

Board with 308

Foot Pump. Detachable Motor-Driven Tire

Pump Made of 454

Foot Rests, Small Stools and, Variety of... 261

Footstool 254

Footstool. Woven-Reed 255

Forceps for Weedinsc Garden 338

Form, Book, Keeping Magazine in 378

Fort Built of Snow Blocks Made In Box

Form 409

Fortune Telling, Magic-Paper 393

Fountain Pen, Ordinary Pen Converted into 362

Fountain-Pen Wrench 273

Frame, Broken Fly-Screen, Repairing 356

Frame, Colonial Mirror 306

Frame, Folding. Duck Decoys Mounted 'on 188

Frame. Window, and lable for Dark Room 320

Frames, Novel Homemade Picture 124

Front-Opening Hatbox 266

Fruit-Picking Pole with Gravity Delivery

Chute 367

Fruit. Tin Can on Rod for Picking 54

Frving Pan Made cf Tin Cover 298

Fuel Box in Seat Filled from Floor Trapdoor 332
Furniture. Crates and, Three-Caster Truck

for Moving 419

Furniture. Woven Reed 261, 269

Fuse Socket. Inkwell Base Made from 344

Fuses. Homemade, for Battery Circuits.... 151

Galvanometer, Compact 42

Game, Device for Finger Tug-of-War 319

Game Fish. Bait Casting for 71

Game, Indian Snake 388

Game of Skill. Marble-under-Bridge 298

Garden, Forceps for Weeding 338

Garden Hose. Practical Bracket for 417

Garden Plants, Starting 373

Garden Plow Made of Pick-Up Material.... 227
Garden Workers. Movable Sunshade and Seat

for 148

Gas. Blowpipe for 336

Gas-Fixture Chains, Sleeve Aids in Distin-
guishing 247

Gas Furnace. Small 346

Gas Heater. Pie-Plate 423

Gas-Hose Bracket for Ironing or Shop Use 366

Gas Mantles Made at Home 274

Gas Piping, Tire Pump Made of 419

Gas Stove for the Dining Table 373

Gas-Stove Lighter 416

Gas -Stove Oven. Substitute for 45

Gas Stove. Safety Cover for Valves on 298

Gasoline Stove, Denatured Alcohol to Start 413

Gasoline Tank on Launch, Lock for 85

Gate. Barnyard, Operated with the Foot.... 208
Gate on Door, Locking Device for Latch

Hook on 127

Gate, Porch. Folds into Hollow Pillar 193

Gate Sign with Metal Letters, Homemade... 4.'^1

Gauee for Laying Out Model Gear Wheels. . 384

Gauge for Woodwork 252

Gear Wheels. Model, Gauge for Laying Out 384

Geese. Feeding in a Poultry Yard 373

Generator Attachment Provides Current for

Bicvcle Lamp 457

Giant, Showing Strength of 108

Glass-and-Hat Trick 342

Glass Bottle as a Candle Lamp 2'n

Glass Bottle, Cutting with Electricity 230

Glass. Electric Counting, for Thread Fabric 321

Glass. Ground, in Camera. Substitute for... 2.'!6

Glass. Mystery Sounding 157

Glass. Transferring Pictures to 443

Glass Vessels. Pad for. Made of Corks 161

Glider, Toy Paper, Carefully Designed 324

Globes, Burned-Out Incandescent. Repairing 236

Glossy, Making Photographic Prints 76

Glossy Surfaces in Photography, Putty

Deadens 360

Gloves, Rubber. How to Repair 286

Gluing Press. Inexpensive 313

Golf Tee Made of a Shotgun Shell 430

Good Putty, How to Make 395

Gourd Float for a Fisliline 285

Grass and Weeds, To Keep Out of Tennis

Court 149

Gravity Delivery Chute, Fruit-Picking Pole

with 367

Gravity-Feed Coal Hopper on Truck 140

Green and Red Lights, Signal Telegraph with 176

Grinding Writing and Lettering Pens 169

Grip, Bicycle-Handle, on Rake Handle 372

Grip. Points of. Scale on Vaulting Pole In-
dicates 411

Grips. Rubber Handlebar, Reinforcing the

Ends of 452

Groove Cutter for Wood 45

Grotto for an Aquarium, Cement 235

Ground Seat. Folding, with Back Rest 190

Guard Saves Wear on Vest 413

Guarding a Camp Chest Against Theft 362

Guards. Hand, for Motorcyclists 372

Guide for Photo and Paper Trimmer, Home-
made 366

Guide String, Seed-Planting, Reel for Use

with 422

Guides for Scenic Painting, Enlarged Lan-
tern Pictures as 419

Gun, Choke and Pattern of 63

Gun, Crossbow Magazine 458

Guns. Equipment and Books, Sportsman's

Cabinet for 434

Gymnasium, Protecting Lights in 337

Hacksaw-Blade, Old, Handy Paring Knife

Made from 207

Hall Seat with Storage Compartment 312

Hammock Sleeping Tent 242

Hammock Support, Springy, Made of Boughs 369
Hammocks, How to Make:

Part I. — A Twine Hammock 277

Part II. — A Netted Hammock 282

Hand Cases, Carrying Strap and Lock for.. 328

Hand Drill, Polishing with 354

Hand-Drill Press. Oiler for 276

Hand Guards for Motorcvclists 372

Hand-Operated Motorboat Whistle 178

Hand-Operated Whirling Fan 398

Handle for a Drinking Glass 125

Handle, Rake. Bicycle-Handle Grip on 372

Handle. Second, on Hoe or Rake Saves Stoop-
ing 160

Handle. Umbrella. Making Detachable 439

Handlebar. Clip Holds Flash Lamp on as

Headlight 450

Handlebar Grips. Rubber. Reinforcing the

Ends of 452

Handles. Tool. Ferrules for 157

Hands. Preventing Puttv Sticking to 314

Hands. To Remove Putt'- from 387

Handy Tray for Pencils and Penholders 430

Hanger. Improvised Trousers, in Train Berth 367

Hanger, Trouser 350

Hanging a Picture, Small Hook for 276

Hanging Heavy Rug on Line for Beating... 389

Hanging Ladder for a Hatchway 349

Hard Wood. Driving Screws in 94

Hat. Marker for 123

Hat. Old Straw. Bird House Made of 181

Hatbox. Front-Opening 266

Hatchway, Hanging Ladder for 349

Hawaiian Ukulele. Homemade 358

Headlight. Clip Holds Flash Lamp on Han-
dlebar as 450

Headrest for Chair. Removable 432

Headrest for Porch Swing 367

Heat, Working Wood by Application of 150

Heater. Curling-Iron 130

Heater for the Experimenter 43

Heater in Chick Brooding House. Shield for 295
Heater Keeps Developer at Proper Tempera-
ture 190

Heating Apparatus. Electrical, Table Sockets

for 396

Heating Room. Electric Fan Aid to 426

Heavy Objects. Moving with a Broom 445

Height of Chair. Door Bumpers Raise 358

Hens. Coop for Sitting 360

Hickory Sapling, Swing Made of 335

467

Hides, Small Fur, Stretcher for Drying.... 421

High Chair 318

High Stool, How to Make 378

Hikers, Kitchen for 132

Hinge, Double-Swing, Plain Butts Used as.. 330

Hinge Lock for Horizontal Sliding Windows 372

Hinge Wings, Covering 276

Hinged Box Cover Made Without Hinges... 141

Hinged Window Box 413

Hinges, Box Cover Without 46

Hinges, Hinged Box Cover Made Without.. 141
Hoe or Rake, Second Handle on. Saves Stoop-
ing 160

Holder, Drinking-Glass 134

Holder for Household Ice Pick 335

Holder, Knee-Rest, for Milking Pail 434

Holder, Knife, Fork, and Spoon 40

Holder, Playing-Card 414

Holder, Revolving Card or Ticket 36a

Holder, Sanitary, for Thread and Dental

Floss 46

Holder, Shaving-Brush 7 6

Holders, Drinking-Glass, Easily Made 197

Hole. Countersinking Smoothly 345

Hollow Candy Figures, Mold for Making 122

Hollow Pillar, Porch Gate Folds into 193

Home, Decorative Toys and Boxes Made at.. 299

Home, Gas Mantles Made at 274

Home Portraiture. Portable Skylight for... 330

Home Use, Convenient Type of Mail Box for 211

Home Workbench, Two Simple Vises for... 197

Hook, Clothespin-Basket 400

Hook, Small, for Hanging a Picture 276

Hooks, Overhead, Device for Suspending Par-
cels from 162

Hoop, Child's Bell-Ringing 449

Horizontal Sliding Windows, Hinge Lock for 372

Horizontal Sundial Plate. Laying Out 436

Horn, Auto, for Child's Play Vehicle 16

Horn Match Holder, Ornamental 247

Horse-Drawn Sod Cutter 229

Horse, Toy, That Walks 363

Horseshoe Nail, String-Cutting Ring Made of 5

Hot-Air Register, Catch-Ail Screen Inside.. 432

Hot Dishes, Attractive Table Stands for.... 210

Hourglass Sewing Basket 137

House, Chick Brooding. Shield for Heater in 295

House Key. Concealing 70

House. Pigeon 403

Houseboat, How to Make 143

Hunter's Knife, Locking Sheath for 428

Hvdraulic Turbine. Small 427

Hydrogen, Filling Toy Rubber Balloons with 30

Ice Creeper 94

Ice Pick, Household, Holder for 335

Ice Sled. Folding 44

Ice Yacht, Wishbone-Mast 17

Illuminated Indicating Target Box 180

Illuminating-Gas Plant, Miniature 379

Illumination. Reflected-Light, with Home-
made Arrangement 128

Iltiitation-Celluloid Scales and Name Plates 353

Imitation Fire, Inexpensive 226

Impressions of Leaves, Making 100

Improvement on Pocket Flash Lamps 267

Improvised Trousers Hanger in Train Berth 367

Improvised Typewriter Desk 225

Incandescent Globes, Repairing Burned-Out 236

Incubator Chicks, Stepmother for 130

Index Card. Removal Marker for 372

Index for Popular Mechanics Magazine on

Bookshelf 308

Index Trays, Novel Covered Box for 414

Indian Snake Gam ^ 388

Indicating Target Box. Illuminated 180

Indicator, Simple Polarity 422

Indicator. Spool-and-Pencil, Telegraph Re-
corder with 171

Indirect-Light Reflector and Mirror, Com-
bination 460

Inexpensive Dry-Plate Kit 326

Inexpensive Gluing Press 313

Inexpensive Imitation Fire 226

Inexpensive Materials. Homemade Relay of 332

Inkstand Made of Sheet of Paper 136

Inkwell Base Made from Fuse Socket 344

Inner Tubes. Old. Rubber Bands Made from 268

Insect Bites, Ammonia-Carrying Case for. . . 154
Inserting or Correcting on Typewritten

Bound Sheets 419

Instrument Bases, How to Polish 30

Instruments, Wood-Wind, Repairing 174

Invalid in Bed, Folding Card Table Handy

for 308

Inverted Electric-Light Fixture, Homemade 435

Iron, Electric, Variety of Uses for 14

Iron Pipe, Coal Hod Made from 129

Ironing Board, Folding, Clamps on Edge of

Table or Window 8

Ironing Board for Use on a Table 315

Ironing-Board Wall Fastening 318

Ironing or Shop Use, Gas-Hose Bracket for 366

Irrigation Water, Current of Canal Raises.. 411

Jack. Changing Motor-Car Tire Without 210

Jardiniere Made of Metal-Lamp Bod.v 226

Jars, Acid, Earthen Mustard Pots Used as 391

Jars, Removable Paraffin Covers for 298

Jig-Saw Table for Vise 93

Jobs, Odd, Practical Memorandum for 322

Joining Broken Liquid Column in Thermom-
eter 366

Kegs, Bird House Made of 134

Kerosene Fumes, Cleaning a Clock "with.... 324

Key, Combination. Wooden Lock with 13

Key, House, Concealing 70

Key Ring Used as a Cover Fastener 430

Keys. Typewriter Space and Shift, Pedals

for Increase Speed 364

Kink, Handy, in Addressing Mailing Tubes 458

Kinks for the Talking Machine 179

Kinks in Washing Photographic Negatives

and Prints 181

Kinks on the Care of Umbrellas 422

Kinks, Three Bathroom 402

Kit, Inexpensive Dry-Plate 326

Kit, Soldier's or Traveler's, for Sundries and

Toilet Articles 453

Kitchen for Hikers 132

Kitclien, Slicing Bo^rd for Camp or 247

Kitchen Utensils, Cupboard for 396

Kitchenette, Sideboard Converted into 192

Kite, Camera foi Taking Pictures from.... 52

Kite, Eight-Pointed Star 159

Kite, Releasing Parachute from 354

Kites. Combined, How to Make:

Part I. — A Dra on Kite 145

Part II. — A Festooned Kite 155

Knee-Rest Holder for Milking Pail 434

Knife, Fork, and Spoon Holder 40

Knife. Hunter's, Locking Sheath for 428

Knife. Pruning and Brush-Cutting 449

Knife to Trim Magazines for Binding 286

Knob. Broken Coffee Pot. Replacing 226

Knock-Down Tennis-Court Backstop 189

Knot, Sheepshank, Used to Recover Rope... 168

I^adder for a Hatchway, Hanging 349

Lamp and Mirror. Shaving, for Camp 162

Lamp, Candle, Glass Bottle as 291

Lamp Cooker 294

Lamp, Homemade Trouble 365

Lamp. Piano or Reading 290

Lamp. Small Desk, Supported by Paper

Weight 424

Lamp. Smoking of. Overcome by Increasing

Draft 361

Lamp Wicks Cheaply Made 236

Lamps, Pocket Flash, Improvement on 26'7

Lantern, Camp, Made of a Tin Can 406

Lantern Pictures, Enlarged, as Guides for

Scenic Painting 419

Lard Budgets, Deodorizing 340

Latch Hook on Gate or Door, Locking Device

for 127

Latch, Quickly Made Door 123

Lathe, Making Small Ratchet Wheels in.... 266

Launch, Lock for Gasoline Tank on 85

Laundry Tub and Dishwashing Sink, Com-
bination 218

Lawn Benches Made from Old Bedsteads.... 174

Lawn Mower, How to Use 171

Lawn Mower Sharpened Efficiently with

Simple Rigging 448

Lawn Seats Eui-t on Tree Stumps 141

Lawns. Seeding Bare Spots on 167

Laying Out a Horizontal Sundial Plate 436

Laying Out Model Gear Wheels. Gauge for 384

Lead Pencil, Measuring Resistance with.... 249

Lead Screw, Experimental, How to Make... 31
Lead Soldiers and Similar Small Castings,

Making 455

Leaks in Pipes. Repairing 212

Leather and Silk Bookmark 218

Leather Billfold, Craftsman 446

468

Leather Tire Patch 400

Leaves, Flowers and. Reproducing in Colors 152

Leaves, Making Impressions of 100

Leaves, Preserving in Specimen Boolt 10

Left Hand, Spoon Attachment to Prevent

Child from Using 317

Leggings. Birch-Bark. Made in the 'Woods 421

Lens, Feather as X-Ray 412

Lens, Photo-Copying, Increases Angle of

Camera 160

Lettering Pen, Split-Bamboo 142

Lettering Photo Prints Without Marking

Negative 440

Letters, Metal. Homemade Gate Sign with... 451

Level. Homemade 384

Lever. Tightening, for Tennis Xets 158

Leverage on Door Spring, Angle Bracket

Gives 460

Life Buov, Homemade 126

Lifting Device of Rope and Lever, Emer-
gency 334

Light Bulb, Testing Dry Cells with 267

Light, Emergency Dark-Room 94

Light, Flash. Used as Bedroom Night Light 433

Light, Homemade Arc 285

Light, Porch, and Plant Shelf. Bark-Covered 432
Light Reflectors, White Blotting Paper Im-
proves 1^6

Lighted Lights in Basement, Signal for.... 314
Lighted Whirling Fan Used as Radiator

Ornament 260

Lighter. Gas-Stove 410

Lighter, Non-Blow-Out Cigar and Pipe 321

Lighting a Candle Without Touching the

Wick 334

Lighting a Match in the Wind 382

Lightning Switch for Wireless Aerials 415

Lights in Basement. Signal for Lighted .... 314

Lights in a Gvmnasium, Protecting 337

Line. Hanging Heavy Rug on, for Beating 389

Liner. Homemade Section 280

Lines, Fish, ^S'aterproofing for 94

Linoleum Panels for Homemade Chest 425

Liquid Column in Thermometer, Joining

Broken 3fiR

Liquid-Filled Trav Carried Safely 439

Liquids, Pouring Quickly from Containers.. 21
Litmus Paper, Testing Direct Current Polar-
ity with 369

Live Poultry Weighed Handily in Funnel

Scale 442

Loading Box to Dispense with Dark Room. . 2G8

Locating Droplight in Dark 31

Lock Box. Automatic, for Milk Bottles 428

Lock, Carrying Strap and, for Hand Cases.. 328

Lock, Chest, Making More Secure 94

Lock, Double, for Shed 157

Lock, Effective Combination, Easily Made.. 431

Lock for Gasoline Tank on a Launch 85

Lock, Hinge, for Horizontal Sliding W^indows 372

Lock, Wooden, with Combination Key 13

Locker. Boy's Athletic-Equipment 439

Locking Device for Latch Hook on Gate or

Door 127

Locking Device. Simple Concealed, for Cases

of Drawers 4

Locking Sheath for Hunter's Knife 428

Locking Window Sash 62

Locomotive Model and Track System. Home-
made Electric:

Part I. — The Motcr 231

Part II. — Construction of the Locomotive

Truck and Cab 237

Part III. — Construction of the Track Sys-
tem 243

Log Raft, Woodsnian':^ 185

Looseness of Drawer Handles, Preventing 357

Luminous-Minnow Fish Bait 314

Lumps, Mixing Stick That Breaks Up 54

Lunch Table. Revolving Outdoor 363

Lure for Pish. Electric 123

Machine Gun. Toy, That Fires Wooden Bul-
lets 408

Magic Cabinet 345

Magic Candles Explained 355

Magic Clock Hand 347

Magic of Numbers 222

Machine Bases, Small. Sandpapering Square-
Edges on 418

Machine Screws, Brass, with Nuts 68

Machine, Simple, for Transmitting Writing. , 442
Magazine on Bookshelf, Popular Mechanics,

Index for 308

Magazines, Keeping in Book Form 373

Magazines, Knife to Trim, for Binding....! 286

Magazines, Temporary Binder for .' ' 370

Magazines, Use for Old ' " 399

jragic-Paper Fortune Telling [','_' 393

Magically Naming a Written Card ', 61

Magnesium Printer, Homemade ' 2'>6

Mail Box, Bell-Ringing ',\ 422

Mail Box for Home Use, Convenient Type

of 211

Mailing, Proper Way to Wrap Papers for... 44
Mailing Tubes. Handy Kink in Addressing.. 458
Mallet Made from Wagon-Wheel Felly and

Spoke 157

Mantles, Gas, Made at Home 274

Maps, Road, Celluloid Cover for 295

Marble-Under-Bridge Game of Skill 298

Mark, Tossing Card at. Accurately 69

Marker for a Hat 123

Marker for Card Index, Removal 372

Marking Negative, Lettering Photo Prints

Without 440

Masks, Novel, for Printing Pictures 182

Match-Box Trick 230

Match Holder, Ornamental Horn 247

Match, Lighting in the Wind 382

Match Safe of Miniature Cannon Shell 335

Matches, Waterproofing 230

Measuring Resistance with a Lead Pencil.. 249
Mechanic. Steam-Propelled Motorcycle Made

by 191

Mechanical Toy Alligator of Wood 460

Mechanical Toy Pigeon Made of Wood .... 433

Memorandum for Odd Jobs, Practical 322

Memorandum List for Camping and Outing

Trips 365

Mending Aluminum Cooking Utensils 437

Merrv-Go-Round, Twisting Thriller 179

Metal Band Stiffens Brush 367

Metal Base, Weighting 217

Metal Bird Basin, Simple 432

Metal-Bound Chests, Miniature 287

Metal Cross. Repairing Broken 389

Metal Floor Corners 248

Metal-Lamp Body. Jardiniere Made of 226

Metal Letters. Homemade Gate Sign with . 451

Metal, Thin, Driving into Wood 247

Method of Developing Roll Films, New 339

Milk Bottles. Automatic Lock Box for 428

Milk, Cleaning Tinware with 44

Milk Strainer, Old, Pivoted Searchlight Made

of 139

Milker. "Switchboard" Protects from Cow's

Tail 128

Milking Pail. Knee-Rest Holder for 434

INliniature Cannon Shell. JIatch Safe of 335

Miniature Cement Plant 383

Miniature Fighting Tank 202

Miniature Illuminating-Gas Plant 379

Miniature Metal-Bound Chests 287

Miniature Push Buttons 251

Minnows for Bait. Catching 168

Mirror. Combination Indirect-Light Reflector

and 4^0

Mirror Frame, Colonial 306

Mirror, Seeing an Alternating Current in... 392

Mirror. Shaving Lamp and. for Camp 162

Mission Candlestick 60

Mission Center Table. Octagonal 7

Mistakes in Model Making. Common 394

Miter Box, Bench Support for 336

Miter Box. Placing on the Workbench 294

Mixing Paste 241

Mixing Stick That Breaks up Lumps 54

Mixture. Dry-Cleaning 62

Model Aeroplane. Egg Beater Made into

Winder for 459

Model Gear Wheels. Gauge for Laying Out 384
Model. Homemade Electric Locomotive and

Track Svstem:

Part I. —The Motor 231

Part II. • — Construction of the Locomotive

Truck and Cab 237

Part III. — Construction of the Track Sys-
tem 243

Model Making. Common Mistakes in 394

Model Old-Four Monoplane. How to Make.. 163
Model Paper Monoplane That Can be Steered 170

Model Paddle-wheel Boats 443

Model Steam Tractor Made by Boy 410

Moist Rag and Draft, Cooling Foodstuffs

with 453

Mold for Making Hollow Candy Figures..,. 122
Monoplane, Model Old-Four, How to Make.. 163

469

Monoplane. Jlodel Paper. That Can be

Steered 170

Morris Chair "with Newspaper Rack and

Smokers Trays 309

Jlosquitoes, Camp Shelter Affords Protection

from 181

Moth-Ball Puzzle as "Window-Advertising

Novelty 444

IVIotor Car. Boys' Homemade 1

Motor Controller, Simple 250

Motor-Driven Entertainer for the Baby 4

Motor-Driven Tire Pump, Detachable, Made

of Foot Pump 454

Motor, Fitting into Paddling- Canoe 89

Motor, Quickly Made Toy Electric 252

Motor, Simple Self-Contained 116

Jlotor, Toy Tractor Built with Dry Cell and 9

Motorboat Whistle, Hand-Operated 178

Motorcycle, Bicycle Fitted Up to Resemble.. 441
Motorcycle Engine, Homemade Roadster

with 437

Motorcycle or Bicycle, Rear Seat for 446

Motorcycle Stand, Stopping Rattle in 414

Motorcycle, Steam-Propelled, Made by Me-
chanic 191

Motorcycle Tires, Economy in 1S8

Motorcyclist, Hand Guards for 372

Mounting: Tracinjf-Cloth Drawinps on Muslin 418
Moving Crates and Furniture, Three-Caster

Truck for 419

Moving Heavy Objects with a Broom 445

Moving Train. Writing on 228

Mucilagre Brush and Container Made of a

Test Tube 335

Muffln-Pan Travs, Nail Cabinet with 230

Muffling the Ticking of a Watch or Clock. . . 223

Music. Sheet. Tabs for Turning Quickly 368

Music Stand. Book Rest for 328

Muslin, Mounting Tracing-Cloth Drawings

on 418

Mustard Pots. Earthen, Used as Acid Jars.. 391

Mysterious Watch 70

Mvsterv Sounding Glass 157

Mystic Climbing Ring 22

Xail Cabinet with Muffin-Pan Trays 230

Nail Carrier Made of Cans 414

Nails, Driving to Prevent Splitting 373

Nails, Kink for Driving 193

Nails, Plier Drives in Backing Picture Frame 450
Name Plates. Imitation-Celluloid Scales and 353
Naming a Written Card, Magically........ 61

Needle Cushion. Emery, on Sewing Machine 197

Needle, Darning, Threading 153

Needle, Split, Causes Echo on Talking Ma-
chine 217

Needle Threader for Sewing Machine 134

Needles. Fiber Phonograph, Device for

Sharpening 361

Needles, Uses for Worn Talking-Machine. . 329

Negative Filing System. Phonographic 434

Negative. Leterring Photo Prints Without

Marking 440

Negatives and Prints, Photographic, Kinks

in Washing 181

Negatives. Retouching, for Printing 397

Nets. Tennis. Tightening Lever for 158

Netted Hammock, How to Make 282

Netting, Poultry Fence Construction Eco-
nomical of 409

New Method of Developing Roll Films 339

Newspaper Rack and Smokers' Trays, Morris

Chair with 309

Ne^wspaper Stand. Pennv-in-the-Slot 364

Night Light. Bedroom. Flash Light Used as 423

Noh-Blow-Out Cigar and Pipe Lighter 321

Nontangling Pasture Stake 136

Novel Covered Box for Index Travs 414

Novel Masks tor Printing Pictures 182

Novel Uses for Safety Pins 445

Novelty. Window-Advertising, Moth-Ball

Puzzle as 444

Nozzle, Sprav. Made of Acetvlene Burner.. 248

Numbers. Magic of 222

Nutcracker. Backwoodsman's 450

Nuts. Brass Machine Screws with 68

Oarlock of Hope. Emergency 218

Oars Flattened to Make Rowing Easier 319

Oars, Take-Down Emergency 395

Octagonal ^Mission Center 'Table 7

Odd .Jobs, Practical Memorandum for 322

Oilcan. Old, Pressure Sprav INIade of 212

Oilcan Stopper 349

Oiler for a Hand-Drill Press 276

Oiling Sewing Machine. Prevents Soiling

Goods After 402

Oiling Tool for Clocks 107

Old Toothbrushes. Uses for 428

One-Piece Bracelet Cut from Calling Card.. 319

One-Runner Sled 45

Onlaying Script on a Trophy Cup 188

opening. Rectangular, to Use Over Camera

View Finder 125

Opening Screw Watch Bezel, Rubber Pads

for 448

Opening Springs for a Tennis-Racket Clamp 393
Order-Memo Device for Delivery Routes. . . . 443
Orient. Pulley and Weight Exerciser Home-
made in 365

Ornament. Radiator, Lighted Whirling Fan

Used as 260

Ornamental Horn Match Holder 247

Ornamental Pencil and Pincushion Holder. . 286

Ornamenting an Old Tree Stump 12.'3

Outdoor Lunch Table. Revolving 363

Outing Trips, Camping and Memorandum

List for 365

Outlet. Water-jacket, Bilge Water Siphoned

Through 413

Oven, Gas-stove, Substitute for 45

Pad. Combined Label and Cover, for Preserve

Glasses 4

Pad for Glass Vessels Made of Corks 161

Pad, Record-Cleaning, Fixed to Talking Ma- .

chine 444

Paddle, Broken Canoe, Repairing 158

Paddle, Knack of Handling 102

Paddle-wheel Boats. Jlodel 443

Paddling Canoe. Pitting Motor into 89

Paddling Canoe, Open, Sailing 86

Paddling Tour Own Canoe:

Part I. - — Kinds of Canoes 95

Part II. — Knack of Handling Paddle 102

Pail, Fisherman's, with Wire-Mesh Cage.... 454

Pail, Milking. Knee-Rest Holder for 434

Pail, Tin, Safety Flue Stopper Made of 328

Pail, Vacuum. How to Make 315

Pail. Valve-Bottom, for Dipping Water 344

Painter's Knife. Scoop on. Catches Scrapings 365
Painting. Scenic. Enlarged, Lantern Pictures

as Guides for 419

Pan, Feeding, for Poultry 248

Pan. Frying. Made of Tin Cover '.. 298

Panels. Linoleum, for Homemade Chest 425

Paper Glider. Tov, Carefullv Designed 324

Paper, Inkstand Made of Sheet of 136

Paper Muslin, Portable Tent Made from an

Umbrella and 364

Paper, Straightening Sheets of 456

Paper Trimmer, Photo and, Homemade Guide

for 366

Paper Warships. Toy 293

Paper Weight, Small Desk Lamp Supported

by , 421

Paper, Wire Clips Weight in Typewriter.... 409

Papers, Proper W^ay to W^rap for Mailing. . . 4 4

Parachute. Releasing from a Kite 354

Parade. Cart fOi Carrying Huge Drum in. ... 435

Paraffin Covers for Jars. Removable 298

Parcel Carrier. Handy, "with Caster Supports 6

Parcel-Delivery Bicycle. Sidecar for 407

Parcels. Device for ' Suspending from Over-
head Hooks 162

Paring Knife. Handy, Made from Old Hack-
saw Blade 207

Parlor Cue Allev 341

Parlor Table 151

Paste, Mixing 241

Paste Pot. Utilizing Empty 30(5

Paste. Squeezing from Tubes 391

Paste Tubes. Wall Pocket for 16

Pasteboard Box. Shortening 337

Pasture Stake. Nontangling 136

Patch. Leather Tire 400

Patching Canvas Bottom of a Canoe 430

Pattern of Gun, Choke and 63

Pattern.s. Castings W^ithout 374

Pedals for Typewriter Space and Shift Keys

Increase Speed 364

Pen. Ordinary. Converted into Fountain Pen 362

Pen. Revolving-Wheel Ruling 134

Pen. .Split-Bamboo Lettering 142

Pencil and Clip, Improvised Penholder Made

with 457

Pencil and Pincushion Holder, Ornamental 286

Pencil Holder for Workbench 236

47D

Pencil, Lead, Measuring Resistance -n-ith.... 249

Pencil Sharpener, Cleanly 247

Pencil Sharpener Made of Wafer Razor Blade 361
Pencils and Penholders. Handy Tray for.... 430
Pencils, Roll-Film Spools Useful in Econo-
mizing' 170

Penholder. Improvised, Made with Pencil

and Clip 457

Penholders. Pencils and. Handy Tray for.... 430

Penny-in-the-Slot Newspaper Stand 364

Pens," GrindinE Writing- and Letterin" 169

Periscope Which a Boy Can Make, Useful.. 305

Perpetual Calendar 43

Perpetual-Motion Puzzle 138

Perpetual Whirligrisr 400

Phonograph Needles, Fiber, Device for

Sharpenir.e: 361

Photo and Paper Trimmer, Homemade Guide

for 366

Photo-Copying Lens Increases Angle of

Camera ISO

Photo Films, Drying, Rapidly 338

Photo-Print Washing Devic. Automatic... 329
Photo Prints, Lettering Without Marking

Negative 440

Photographic Developing, Film Holder for.. 4.'i2

Photographic Developing Tank. Reversible. . 325

Photographic Films. Stenciling with 416

Photographic-Negative Filing Svst^m 434

Photographic Negatives and Prints, Kinks

in Washing ■ . 181

Photographic-Print 'W^ashing Machine 327

Photographic Printing Machine 333

Photographic Prints, Making Glossy 76

Photographic Travs. Making 406

Photographic Workroom, Daylight, Red Win-
dows in 169

Photographing Electric Sparks 399

Photographs in Falling Snow, Taking 140

Photofraphv, Bird, Camera for 426

Photography, Putty Deadens Glossy Surface

In 360

Piano or Reading Lamp 290

Pick-Up Material. Garden Plow Made of.... 227
Picture Frame. Plier Drives Nails in Back-
ing 450

Picture Frame. Sailors' Sweetheart 268

Picture Frames. Novel Homemade 124

Picture. Small Hook for Hanging 276

Pictures, Camera for Taking, from Kite.... 52
Pictures, Enlare-ed Lantern, as Guides for

Scenic Painting 419

Pictures, Novel Masks for Printing 182

Pictures, STiielding from Damp W^alls 338

Pictures. Transferring to Glass 443

Pie-Plate Gas Heater 423

Pigeon House 403

Pigeon. Mechanical Toy, Made of Wood 433

Pigeonhole. Desk-Light Arm Folds into 452

Pile Driver. Small "Working 215

Pillar. Hollow. Porch Gate Folds into 193

Pin Setter for Home Tenpins 61

Pincushion Holder. Ornamental Pencil and.. 286

Pincushion, Wire-Screen 456

Pipe Lighter, Non-Blow-Out Cigar and 321

Pipe Straps, Bottle Carrier Made of 217

Pipe. Water, Broken Spade Handle Repaired

with 242

Pipes, Child's Swing Built of, in Narrow

Space 358

Pipes, Repairing Leaks in 212

Pitch or Wax, Frayed Shoe Laces Repaired

with 129

Plane, Block, Converted for Use on Circular

Work 211

Planing Thin Sticks Held in Flooring Groove 218

Plans in a Shop, Protecting 376

Plant. Miniature Cement 383

Plant. Miniature Illuminating-Gas 379

Plant Shelf. Bark-Covered Porch Light and 432

Plants, Garden, Starting 373

Plaster of Paris to Set Screws into Wall... . 266

Plate Holder, Using as Printing Frame 408

Play Area. Baby'.s, Portable Fence for 195

Play Auto, Barrel Staves as Springs for.... 311
Plav or Stage Use, Comic Chest Expander

for 429

Playground Swings, Bearing for 276

Playing-Card Holder 414

Playing Talking-Machine Records with the

Finger Nail 187

Plier Drives Nails in Backing Picture Frame 450

Plow, Garden Made of Pick-Up Material... 227

Pneumatic Door Check Made of Bicycle

Pump 169

Pocket, Plash Lamps. Improvement on ''67

Pocket, Wall, for Paste Tubes 16

Pointer, Timing, on Watch Crystal 364

Points of Grip, Scale on Vaulting Pole Indi-
cates 411

Polarity, Direct Current, Testing with Litmus

Paper 369

Polarity Indicator, Simple 422

Pole, Fruit-Picking, with Gravity Delivery

Chute 367

Pole Supports Rug for Cleaning 10

Polish Instrument Bases, How to 30

Polisher, Flatiron 399

Polishing with a Hand Drill 354

Pop-Corn Cakes, How to Make 153

Popular Mechanics Magazine on Bookshelf,

Index for 308

Porch Gate Folds into Hollow Pillar 193

Porch Light and Plant Shelf, Bark-Covered 432

Porch Swing 167

Porch Swing, Headrest for 367

Porch Swing Made from Automobile Seat... 425

Porch Swings, Safety Spring for 29'r

Portable Fence for Baby's Play Area 195

Portable Fire Screen 68

Portable Folding Boat 135

Portable .Sectional Poultry Fencing 329

Portable Skylight for Home Portraiture ... 330
Portable Tent Made from an Umbrella and

Paper Muslin 364

Portraiture. Home, Portable Skylight for... 330
Post-Card Projector and Enlarging Camera,

Improvised 209

Posts for Tennis Court. Removable 415

Pot. Emptv Paste. Utilizing 306

Pots. Earthern Mu.stard. Used as Acid Jars 391

Potted Flowers, Turntable Stand for 308

Poultry. Concrete Water Basin for 236

Poultry Coops, Double Roofs Provide Ideal

Shade for 180

Poultry, Feeding Pan for 248

Poultrv Pence Construction Economical o f

Netting 409

Poultry Fencing. Portable Sectional 329

Poultrv-House Door Latch, Spring Roost

Releases 448

Poultry House. Trap Nest for 455

Poultry. Live. Weighed Handily in Funnel

Scale 442

Poultry Yard. Feeding Geese in 373

Pouring Liquids Quickly from Container.. 21

Practical Memorandum for Odd Jobs 322

Practical Uses for Old Button Clasps 432

Practice Batting for Baseball Playing 100

Preserve Glasses. Combined Label and Cover

Pad for 4

Preserving Leaves in Specimen Book 10

Press, Hand-Drill, Oiler for 276

Preventing Looseness of Drawer Handles. . 357
Prevents Soiling Goods After Oiling Sewing

Machine 402

Printer, Developing-Paper 375

Printer, Homemade Magnesium 226

Printing Frame, Losing Plate Holder as.... 408

Printing Machine. Photographic 333

Printing Pictures. Novel Masks for 182

Printing, Retouching Negatives for 397

Printing Surface. Curved, for Sharp Focus

in Bromide Enlargements 186

Prints, Photographic, Making Glossy 76

Prints, Photographic Negatives and. Kinks

in Washing 181

Projector. Post-Card, and Enlarging Camera,

Improvised 209

Propeller Blades, How to Make Quicklv.... 395

Protect Extra Spark Plugs. Box to 440

Protecting an Air Pump Against Denting. . 412

Protecting Light in a Gvmnasium 337

Protecting Plans in a Shop 376

Protecting "Wall Back of Range or Sink... 354
Protection from Mosquitoes, Camp Shelter

Affords 1 81

Protector. Book and Document 294

Pruning and Brush-Cutting Knife 449

Pullev and Weight Exerciser Homemade in

the Orient 365

Pulley Slings, Canoe or Boat Stored in 361

Pump, Bicycle, Cleaning Type Cases ^\'ith.. 451
Pump. Detachable Motor-Driven Tire. Made

of Foot Pump 4B4

Pump, Small Rotary. Easily Made 461

Push Button, Doorbell, on Screen Door 150

471

Push Buttons, Miniature 251

Putty Deadens Glossy Surfaces in Photog-
raphy 360

Putty, Good, How to Make 396

Putty, To Prevent Sticking to the Hands... 314

Putty, To Remove from Hands 387

Puzzle, Moth-Ball, as Window-Advertising

Novelty 444

Puzzle, Perpetual-Motion 138

Quick-Acting Bench Vise 85

Rabbits, Tile Trap for 184

Rack, Sewing, Attached to Rocker 291

Radiator Cover, Summer, Serves as Cupboard

in Winter 297

Radiator Ornament, Lighted Whirling Fan

Used as 260

Radiator Valve, Ship's-Wheel Device for.... 259

Raft. Woodsman's Log 185

Rain Alarm with Drop-of-Water Contact. . 161
Raising and Lowering Curtain at a Dis-
tance 22

Raising the Temperature of a Room 356

Rake Handle, Bicycle-Handle Grip on 372

Rake. Hoe or. Second Handle on. Saves

Stooping 160

Range or Sink, Protecting Wall Back of... 354

Rat Trap. Self -Setting 31

Ratchet Wheels, Small, Making in a Lathe 266

Rattle in Motorcycle Stand, Stopping 414

Rattling of Door, Eccentric Drawbolt Stops 457

Rattling of Windows, To Stop 417

Razor Blade, Wafer, Pencil Sharpener Made

of 361

Reading Lamp. Piano or 290

Readings. Temperature, Transposing 376

Rear Seat for Motorcycle or Bicycle 446

Receptacles, Bench, for Small Articles 350

Receptacle for Shellac Varnish 346

Record-Cleaning Pad Fixed to Talking Ma-
chine 444

Record Time of Appointments and Other

Events, Clock Device to 322

Recording Annunciator Target 310

Records, Disk Talking-Machine, Played Ec-

centricallv 328

Records, Talking-Machine, Playing with the

Finger Nail 187

Rectangular Opening to Use over Camera

View Finder 125

Red Lens Hinged to Flash Light for Dark-

Room Use 6

Red Lights, Green and, Signal Telegraph

with 176

Red Windows in Daylight Photographic

Workroom 169

Reed Furniture, Woven 261, 269

Reed Handle. Repairing Broken 187

Reel for Use with Seed-Planting Guidt

String 422

Reflected-Light Illumination with Homemade

Arrangement 128

Reflector and Mirror, Combination Indirect-
Light 460

Reflectors, Light, White Blotting Paper Im-
proves 196

Refrigerator, Making Use of in Winter.... 344

Refrigerator. Window 323

Refuse-Catching Drawer. Wood Box with... 144
Register, Hot-Air, Catch-Ail Screen Inside 432
Reinforcing a Strained Auto-Truck Frame 454
Reinforcing the Ends of Rubber Handlebar

Grips 452

Relay of Inexpensive Materials, Homemade 332

Releasing a Parachute from a Kite 354

Removable Drawer Stop 10

Removable Headrest for Chair 432

Removable Paraffin Covers for Jars 298

Removable Posts for Tennis Court 415

Removal Marker for Card Index 372

Removal of Wall Paper, Kink for 295

Remove Putty from Hands 387

Removing Sag from Couch Spring 430

Repair Rubber Gloves, How to 286

Repairing a Brass Candlestick 372

Repairing a Broken Canoe Paddle 158

Repairing a Broken Fly-Screen Frame .... 356

Repairing a Broken Metal Cross 389

Repairing a Broken Reed Handle 187

Repairing Burned-Out Incandescent Globes 236
Repairing Sectional Spun-Metal Candlestick 382
Repairing Shade-Roller Springs 338

Replacing a Broken Coffee Pot Knob "e

Reproducing Flowers and Leaves in Colors. 152

Resistance, Measuring with a Lead Pencil . 249

Retouching Negatives for Printing . . . 397
Reversible Photographic Developing Tank 325

Reversing Switch, Cylinder 297

Revolving Card or Ticket Holder '.'." 369

Revolving Outdoor Lunch Table 363

Revolving-Wheel Ruling Pen 134

Revolving Window Display .,', 229

Rheostat, Small, for Experiments and Testing 206
Rheostat, Water, for Small Electrical Devices 196

Rifle, Sporting, and How to Use It 47

Rigging Economizes Space in Closet 433

Rigging, Simple, Lawn Mower Sharpened

Efficiently with 443

Ring-and-Egg Trick 84

Ring, Mystic Climbing 22

Ring, String-Cutting. Made of Horeshoe Nail 5

Rip in Tire Tubes, Checking 354

Rivets in Couches, Substitute for 371

Road Maps. Celluloid Cover for 295

Roadster with Motorcycle Engine. Homemade 437

Rocker, Developing or Etching-Tray '18

Rocker, Sewing Rack Attached to 291

Rod for Picking Fruit, Tin Can on 5'4

Rods, Round, for Fish Poles, Making 40

Rods, Turning Long Wood 349

Roll-Film Spools Useful in Economizing

Pencils 170

Roll Films, New Method of Developing.... 3.''9

Roll-Paper Feed for Typewriter 207

Roller, Shade, Toy Submarine Made of 441

Roller Skates, Homemade 377

Roller Truck for LTse in Scrubbing 210

Rolling Can, Come-Back 298

Roofs, Double, Provide Ideal Shade for Poul-
try Coops 180

Room, Dark, Loading Box to Dispense with 268

Room, Electric Fan Aid to Heating 426

Room. Raising Temperature of 356

Roost, Spring, Releases Poultrv-House Door

Latch 448

Rope and Lever, Emergency Lifting Device

of 334

Rope, Emergency Oarlock of 218

Rope Pad Prevents Slamming of Door 440

Rope, Sheepshank. Knot Used to Recover... 168

Rope, Weighted, Holds Flag I'pright 451

Roses Tinged Blue by Chemicals 406

Rotary Pump. Small. Easily Made 451

Round and Flat Edges. Ruler with 350

Round Rods for Fish Poles, Making 40

Rowing, Oars Flattened to Make Easier.... 319
Rubber Balloons, Toy, Filling with Hydro-
gen 30

Rubber Band, Making Scale Enlargements

with 175

Rubber Band Prevents Tangling of Tele-
phone Cord 367

Rubber Bands :Made from Old Inner Tubes 268
Rubber Faucet Plug, Coffee Grinder Re-
paired with 129

Rubber Gloves, How to Repair 286

Rubber Pads for Opening Screw Watch

Bezel 448

Rubbers, Drving Rack for Shoes and 454

Rudder for a Toboggan 323

Rug, Heavy, Hanging on Line for Beating 389

Rug, Pole Supports, for Cleaning In

Ruler with Round and Flat Edges 350

Ruling Pen. Revolving-Wheel 134

Ruling Uniform Cards or Sheets, Aid in.... 420
Running Board of Automobile, Suitcase

Holder for 329

Rust. Keeping Tools Bright and Free from. . 212

Rustic Trellis to Shade Door or Window... 175

Rustic Well for a Bazaar or Fair Booth 182

Safeguarding Contents of Unsealed En-
velopes 363

Safety Brake. Coaster with 273

Safetv Chopping Block 187

Safety Cover for Valves on Gas Stove 298

Safety Flue Stopper Made of Tin Pail 328

Safety Pins. Novel Uses for 445

Safety Spring for Porch Swings 297

Sag, Removing from Couch Spring 430

Sail-Rigged Wind Motor 172

Sailing the Open Paddling Canoe 8i>

Sailors' Sweetheart Picture Frame 2&'i

Sal-Ammoniac. Renewing Dry Batteries with 14

Salt-and-Pepper Holder, Camper's , , . 115

472

Sandpapering Square Edges on Small Ma-
chine Bases 'If

Sanitarv Drinking- Tube bV

Sanitary Holder for Thread and Dental Floss 46

Sapling, Hicl-;ory, Swing Made of 335

Scale Enlargements, Making with a Rubber

Band 1T5

Scale Funnel, Live Poultry Weighed Handily

in 412

Scale on Vaulting Pole Indicates Points of

Grip 411

Scaler. Fish 154

Scales and Name Plates, Imitation-Celluloid 353

Scarecrow, Cat-and-Bells 426

Scarecrow. Swinging Bags on Arms of 340

Scenic Painting. Enlarged Lantern Pictures

as Guides tor 419

Scissors Blades. Keeping Apart Lengthens

Their Service 454

Scoop Made of Box End 433

Scoop on Painter's Knife Catches Scrapings 365

Scraper for Dishes 337

Scraper for Tennis Court 311

Scrapings. Scoop on Painter's Knife Catches 365
Screen. Catch-All. Inside Hot-Air Register... 432

Screen-Door Check, Homemade 392

Screen Door. Device Frightens Flies at 425

Screen Door. Doorbell Push Button on 150

Screen, Fluorescent, How to Make 92

Screen, Focusing, for Enlarging Cameras.... 388
Screw. Experimental Lead. How to Make. ... 31

Screw Hooks. Putting in Neatly 312

Screw Watch Bezel, Rubber Pads for Open-
ing 448

Screwdriver Made from Buttonhook 362

Screws, Driving in Hard Wood 94

Screws, Plaster of Paris to Set into Wall.. 266

Script on a Trophy Cup, Onlaying 188

Scrubbing and Floorwork. Caster Board for 293

Scrubbing. Roller Truck for L^se in 210

Searchlight. Pivoted. Made of Old Milk

Strainer 139

Seat. Automobile. Porch Swing Made from.. 425

Seat. Combination Workshop 370

Seat, Folding Ground, with Back Rest 190

Seat for Garden Workers. Movable Sun-
shade and 148

Seat. Fuel Box in. Filled from Floor Trap-
door 332

Seat, Hall, with Storage Compartment 312

Seat, Homemade Spring Wagon 440

Seat. Rear, for Motorcycle or Bicycle 446

Seats, Lawn. Built on Tree Stump 141

Second Handle on Hoe or Rake Saves Stoop-
ing 160

Secret Trinket Case for the Bookshelf 296

Section Liner, Homemade 280

Sectional Poultry Fencing. Portable 329

Sectional Spun-Metal Candlesticks. Repair-
ing 382

Secure. Making Chest Lock More 94

Seed-Planting Guide String, Reel for Use

with 422

Seeding Bare Spots on Lawns 167

Seeing an Alternating Current in a Mirror.. 392

Self-Setting Rat Trap 31

Set of Electric Chimes 368

Sewing Basket. Hourglass 137

Sewing Machine. Emery Needle Cushion in 197

Sewing Machine, Needle Threader for 134

Sewing Machine, Prevents Soiling Goods

After Oiling 402

Sewing-Machine Thread, Preventing from

Tangling 382

Sewing Rack Attached to Rocker 291

Sewing Stand with Workbag in Top 293

Shade and Curtains. Bedroom, Arranged for

Thorough Ventilation 128

Shade. Ideal, Double Roofs Provide for Poul-
try Coops 1 8(1

Shade-Roller Springs, Repairing 338

Shade Roller. Toy Submarine Made of 441

Sharpener, Table-Knife 22

Sharpening Fiber Phonograph Needles, De-
vice for 361

Shaving-Brush Holder 76

Shaving Lamp and Mirror for Camp 162

Sheath for Hunter's Knife, Locking 428

Shed. Double Lock for 157

Sheepshank Knot Used to Recover Rope.... 168

Sheet-Metal Stand for Flatiron 182

Sheet Music, Tabs for Turning Quickly 368

Sheets of Paper, Straightening 456

Sheets, Typewritten Bound, Inserting or Cor-
recting on 419

Sheets, Uniform Cards or. Aid in Ruling..,. 420

Shellac Varnish. Receptacle for 345

Shelves. Wall. Easily Constructed log

Shield for Heater in Chick Brooding House 295

Shielding Pictures from Damp Wall 338

Shipment. Convenient. Trunk Bookcase for.. 217
.Ship's-Wheel Device for a Radiator Valve, . . 259
Shoe Laces, Frayed, Repaired with Pitch or

Wax 129

Shoe-Poli.shing Strop 344

Shoes and Rubbers. Drying Rack for 454

Shoes. Tan. To Keep from Turning Dark.... 377

Shop. Protecting Plans in 376

Shop Use. Ironing or, Gas-Hose Bracket for 366

Shortening a Pasteboard Box 337

Shotgun and How to Use It:

Part I. — How a Shotgun is Made 55

Part II. — Choke and Pattern of a Gun 63

Shotgun Shell. Fishing-Tackle Outfit in.... 112

Shotgun Shell. Golf Tee Made of 430

Shoulder-Pack Tent, Homemade 131

Sideboard Converted into Kitchenette 192

Sidecar for a Parcel-Delivery Bicycle 407

Sign. Homemade Gate, with Metal Letters... 4S1

Signal for Lighted Lights in Basement 314

Signal Telegraph with Green and Red Liffhts 176
Signboard. Antique, Made of Headboard of

Bed 15

Silverware. Cleaning 158

Simple Barometer 415

Simple Concealed Locking Device for Cases

of Dra^wers 4

Sink. Dishwashing, Combination Laundry

Tub and 218

Sink. Old. Installed as Dish-Draining Basin. 452
Sink. Protecting Wall Back of Range or. . . . 354

Sitting Hens. Coop for 360

Skates. Homemade Roller 377

Ski Sled 41

Skill. Marhle-Under-Bridge Game of 298

Skis and Ski Running:

Part I. — Prominent Types of Modern Skis 23

Part II. — Running. Jumping and Climbing 33

Skylight. Portable, for Home Portraiture... 330

Slamming of Door, Rope Pad Prevents 440

Sled, Folding Ice 44

Sled, One-Runner 45

Sled, Ski 41

Sleeping Tent. Hammock 242

Sleeve Aids in Distinguishing Gas-Fixture

Chains 247

Slicing Board for Camp or Kitchen 247

Slide in Top of Drawer. Desk 356

Slide Tray. Nonbinding Tool-Chest 371

Slide, Water-Coasting Toboggan and 183

Sliding Board for Coasting 14

Sliding Windows, Horizontal, Hinge Lock

for 372

Small Articles, Bench Receptacles for 350

Small Working Pile Driver 215

Smoker's Cabinet or Cellarette 32

Smoker's Trays, Morris Chair with Newspa-
per Rack 309

Smoking of Lamp Overcome by Increasing

Draft 361

Snake Game, Indian 388

Snakes Inlaid, Turned Cane with 325

Snapper-Shell Ash Tray 68

Snow Blocks Made in Box Form, Fort Built

of 409

Snow, Falling, Taking Photographs in 140

Snowshoe Toe Clips, Homemade 418

Socket, Fuse. Inkwell Base Made from 344

Sockets, Table, for Electrical Heating Appa-
ratus 396

Sod Cutter, Horse-Drawn 229

Soiling Goods After Oiling Sewing Machine,

Prevents , 402

Solder, Making String 235

Soldering, Difficult, Alcohol Blowtorch for. 382

Soldier. Compact Toilet Outfit for 9

Soldiers. Lead, and Similar Small Castings,

Making 455

Soldier's or Traveler's Kit for Sundries and

Toilet Articles 453

Sounding Glass, Mystery 157

Space in Closet, Rigging Economizes 433

Spacer for Curtain Rings, Cord Used as 211

Spade Handle, Broken. Repaired with Water

Pipe 242

Spark Plugs, Extra, Box to Protect 440

Sparks, Electric, Photographing 399

473

Specimen Book, Preserving Leaves in 10

Speed, Pedals for Typewriter Space and

Shift Key Increase 364

Spit, Water Wheel Turns .over Campfire.... 429

Split-Bamboo Lettering Pen 142

Split-Bamboo Tray for Top, Folding Table

■with 424

Split Needle Causes Echo on Tallying Ma-
chine 217

Splitting, Driving Nails to Prevent 373

Spokes, Wire, in Wheels, Handy Tool for

Tightening 450

Spoon Attachment to Prevent Child from Us-
ing Lett Hand 317

Sporting Rifle and How to Use It 47

Sportsman's Cabinet for Guns, Equipment

and Books 434

Spray Liquid in Aiomizer, Bottle Economizes 450

Spray Nozzle Made of Acetylene Burner 248

Spray, Pressure, Made of Old Oilcan 212

Spring for Porch Swings. Safety 297

Spring-Roller Curtains, Automatic Stop for. 317
Spring Roost Releases Poultry-House Poor

Latch 448

Spring Wagon Seat, Homemade 440

Springs, Coiled, Winding 134

.springs. Discarded Buggy, for Diving Board 429
Kl^-ings, for Play Auto, Barrel Staves as. .. . 311
Springs, Opening, for a Tennis- Racket

Clamp 393

Springs, Repairing Shade-Roller 338

Springy Hammock Supports Made of Bouchs 369
Sprocket Drive, Belt for. Made of Brass

Strips 160

Square Edges on Small Machine Bases, Sand-
papering 418

Squeezing Paste from Tubes 391

Squirrel-Skin Bill Fold 265

Stage Use, Player or. Comic Chest Expander

for 429

Stake, Nontang'ling Pasture 136

Stand for Flatlron. Sheet-Metal 183

Stand for Potted Flowers, Turntable 308

Stand for Test-Tube Flower Vase 21

Staples. Tinned, for Bell-Circuit Wiring.... 420

Star-Kite, Eight-Pointed 159

Starting Garden Plants 373

Steam-Propelled Motorcycle Made by Me-
chanic 191

Steam Tractor, Model, Made by Boy 410

Steel Fishing Rods, Enamel for 349

Steel Wool as Aluminum-Ware Cleaner 162

Steel Wool, Uses for 348

Steering Gear, Coaster, Made from Cream-
Freezer Drive 1<J1

Stenciling with Photographic Films 416

Stepmother for Incubator Chicks 130

Stick. Mixing, That Breaks Up Lumps 64

Sticking to Hands, Preventing Putty 314

Sticks Held In Flooring Groove, Planing

Thin 218

Stool, High. How to Make 3.8

Stools, Small, and Foot Rests, Variety of. . . 261
Stooping. Second Handle on Rake or Hoe

Saves Ill

Stop, Bench • ••■■■•■■•.•• J?"

Stop for Spring-Roller Curtains, Automatic. 317

Stop, Removable Drawer 10

Stopper for a Bunghole ^aj

Stopper, Oilcan ,•••„•/• 'J 1^ ,

Stopping Rattle in Motorcycle Stand 414

Storage Compartment, Hall Seat with 312

Storage of Camp Equipment, Care and 304

Storage of Wood for Cabinetwork 389

Stove. Emergency Alcohol ^JO

Stove, Fifty-Cent Electric ^bO

Stove, Gas, for the Dining Table 373

Stove, Gasoline, Denatured Alcohol to Start. 413
Stove Lighter with Feeding Wick Guards

Against Burns 459

Stove, Small Cooking, Economical Use of

Wood Alcohol in 210

Stoves, Emergency Camp, Quickly Made 449

Straightening Sheets of Paper 456

Strained Auto-Truck Frame. Reinforcing... 454
Strap, Carrying, and Lock for Hand Cases.. 328

Straw Hat. Old, Bird House Made of 181

Stretcher for Drying Small Fur Hides 421

Strength of a Giant, Showing 108

Striking of Clock, Electrical Device Trans-
mits 14

String-Cutting Ring Made of Horseshoe Nail 5
String Solder, Making 235

String, To Uncork a Bottle with 401

Strips, Device for Corrugating 421

Strop, Shoe-Polishing 344

Stump, Ornamenting Old Tree 123

Stumps, Tree, Lawn Seats Built on 141

Submarine Camera 219

Submarine, Toy, Made of Shade Roller 441

Substitute for Gas-Stove Oven 45

Substitute for Ground Glass in Camera 236

Substitute for Rivets in Couches 371

.Suitcase Extension, Homemade 360

Suitcase Holder for Running Board of Auto-
mobile 329

Summer Camp, Diving Towner for 274

Summer Radiator Cover Serves as Cupboard

in Winter 297

Summer Veranda, Taborets and Small Ta-
bles for 269

Sundial Plate, Horizontal, Laying Out 436

Sundries and Toilet Articles, Soldier's or

Traveler's Kit 4.^3

Sunshade and Seat, Movable, for Garden

Workers 148

.Support for Flower Centerpiece, Wire-Mesh 344
Support for Wagon Pole Aids in Hooking Up

Team 5

Support. Springy Hammock, Made of Boughs. 369

Sweetheart, Sailor's, Picture Frame 268

Swimmers, Webfoot Attachments for 3S1

Swing, Child's, Built of Pipes in Narrow

Space 358

Swing, Circular 177

Swing Made of Hickory Sapling 335

Swing, Porch 167

Swing, Porch, Headrest for 367

Swing-. Porch. Made from Automobile .Seat... 425

Swinging Bags on Arms of Scarecrow 340

Swings, Playground, Bearing for 276

Swings, Safety Spring for Porch 297

Switch, Cylinder Reversing 29'7

Switch, Lightning, for Wireless Aerials 415

"Switchboard" Protects Milker from Cow's

Tail 12s

T-Squares, Making ini

Table, Bird, Cat-Proof 76

Table Box for Campers 124

Table. Combination Camp-Kitchen Cabinet

and 126

Table, Dining, Ga.<; Stove for 373

Table. Folding Card, Handy for Invalid in

Bed 308

Table, Folding, with Split-Bamboo Trav for

Top "..... 424

Table, Ironing Board for Use on 315

Table, Jig-Saw, for Vise 93

Table-Knife Sharpener 22

Table Lamp, Inexpensive, Made of El metri-
cal-Fixture Parts 127

Table Mats, Asbestos, Reinforced with Wire

Netting 421

Table, Octagonal Mission Center 7

Table, Old. Used as Wall Workbench 440

Table, Parlor 151

Table. Revolving Outdoor Lunch 363

Table Sockets for Electrical Heating Appa-
ratus 396

Table Stands for Hot Dishes. Attractive.... 210

Table. Window Frame and, for Darlc Room. . 320
Tables. Small, and Taborets for the Summer

Veranda 269

Taborets and Small Tables for the Summer

Veranda 269

Tabs for Turning Sheet Music Quickly 368

Take-Down Emergency Oars 395

Taking Pictures from Kite, Camera for 52

Talking-Machine Cabinet, Automatic Elec-
tric Light on 162

Talking-Machine Cabinet, Homemade 310

Talking Jlachine. Disk, as China Banding

Wheel 10

Talking Machine. Kinks for 179

Talking-Machine Needles, LTses for Worn... 329
Talking Machine, Record-Cleaning Pad

Fixed to 445

Talking-Machine Records, Disk, Played Ec-
centrically 328

Talking-Machine Records, Playing -with "the

Finger Nail 187

Talking Machine, Split Needle Causes Echo

on 217

Tan Shoes. To Keep from Turning Dark.... 371
Tandem. 'Tliree-Wheel. Bicycles Driven as.

After Breakdown 410

474

Tangling of Telephone Cord. Rubber Band

Prevents 367

Tangling-, Preventing Sewing- Machine

Thread from 382

Tank. Miniature Fighting 202

Tank. Reversible Photographic Developing.. 325

Target Box, Illuminated Indicating 180

Target, Recording Annunciator 310

Teakettle Cover Held by Dent in Edge 5

Team, Support for Wagon Pole Aids in

Hooking Up 5

Teaspoon. Catching Large Fish with 401

Tee, Golf. Made of a Shotgun Shell 430

Telegraph Recorder with Spool-and-Pencil

Indicator 171

Telegraph. Signal, with Green and Red

Lights 176

Telegraph Sounder, Battery Buzzer Con-
verted into 141

Telephone Cord, Rubber Band Prevents Tan-
gling of 367

Telescope, Interesting Water 228

Temperature of a Room, Raising 356

Temperature, Proper, Heater Keeps Devel-
oper at 190

Temperature Readings, Transposing 376

Temporary Binder for Magazines 370

Tender, Bicycle Carried on Automobile 190

Tennis-Court Backstop. Knock-Down 189

Tennis-Court Marker. Wheelbarrow as 397

Tennis Court, Removable Posts for 415

Tennis Court. Scraper for 311

Tennis Courts, To Keep Grass and Weeds

Out of 149

Tennis Nets, Tightening Lever for 158

Tennis-Racket Clamp, Opening Springs for. 393

Tenpins, Home, Pin Setter for 61

Tension Weight, Emergency, Used on Type-
writer 457

Tent, Hammock Sleeping 242

Tent. Homemade Shoulder-Pack 131

Tent, jiortable. Slade from an Umbrella and

Paper Muslin 364

Test Exposures for Bromide Enlargements. 411

Test-Tube Flower Vase, Stand for 21

Test Tube. Mucilage Brush and Container

Made of 335

Testing and Caring for Files 400

Testing Direct Current Polarity with Litmus

Paper 369

Testing Dry Cells with Light Bulb 267

Theft. Guarding Camp Chest Against 362

Thermometer, Joining Broken Liquid Column 366
Thread and Dental Floss. Sanitary Holder for 46
Thread Fabric. Electric Counting Glass for. 321
Thread. Sewing-Machine, Preventing from

Tangling 382

Threader, Needle, for Sewing Machine 134

Threading a Darning Needle 153

Three-Caster Truck for Moving Crates and

Furniture 419

Thresher. Small, of Practical Use 444

Ticket Holder. Revolving Card or 369

Ticking of a Watch or Clock. Muffling 223

Tightening Lever for Tennis Nets 138

Tightening Wire Spokes in Wheels, Handy

Tool for 450

Tile Trap for Rabbits 184

Tilting Top for Camera Tripod 242

Time, Blotter Attached to Wrist Saves 295

Timing Pointer on Watch Crystal 364

Tin Can. Camp Lantern Made of 406

Tin Can, Case for Fishhooks Made of 267

Tin Can, Cheese Grater and Ash Tray Made

from 225

Tin Can on Rod for Picking Fruit 54

Tin Cover. Frying Pan Made of 2'.I8

Tin Pail. Safety Flue Stopper 328

Tinned Staples for Bell-Circuit Wiring 420

Tinware. Cleaning "with Milk 4 4

Tire, Motor-Car, Changing Without a Jack.. 210

Tire Patch 400

Tire Pump. Detachable Motor-Driven, Made

of Foot Pump 454

Tire Pump Made of Gas Piping 419

Tire Tubes. Checking a Rip in 354

Tires. Baby-Cab. Changing Wheels Equalizes

Wear on 446

Tires. Economy in Motorcycle 188

Toboggan and Slide. Water-Coasting 183

Toboggan, Coasting. Making a 11

Toboggan Made of Old Buggy Shafts 410

Toboggan, Rudder for 323

Toe Clips, Homemade Snowshoe 418

Toilet Articles, Sundries and, Soldier's or

Traveler's Kit for 453

Toilet Outfit, Compact, for the Soldier 9

Tool-Chest Slide Tray, Nonhinding 371

Tool Drawer, Convenient, Under Chair Seat 169

Tool Handles. Ferrules for 157

Tool, Handy, for Tightening Wire Spokes in

Wheels 450

Tool, Oiling, for Clocks 107

Tool Rack, Yardstick on 417

Tool Sockets in Edge of Drawing Board.., 435

Tool, Weeding 248

Tools. Keeping Bright and Free from Rust.. 212

Toothbrush. Uses for Old 428

Tooth Powder Used on Tracing Cloth 346

Top of Drawer. Desk Slide in 358

Top. Split-Bamboo Tray for. Folding Table

with 424

Top, Tilting, for Camera Tripod 242

Tossing Card at Mark Accurately 69

Towel. Disappearing 154

Tower. Diving, for the Summer Camp 274

Toy Alligator of Wood. Mechanical 460

Toy Electric Motor. Quickly Made 252

Tov Horse That Walks 363

Toy Machine Gun Fires Wooden Bullets.... 468

Tov Paper Glider Carefully Designed 324

Toy Paper Warships 293

Toy Pigeon. Mechanical. Made of Wood 433

Toy Rubber Balloons. Filling -with Hydro-
pen 30

Toy Submarine Made of Shade Roller 441

Tov Tractor Built with Dry Cell and Motor 9

Toy. Wire-Walking 180

Toys and Boxes Made at Home. Decorative. 299
Tracing-Cloth Drawings. Mounting on Mus-
lin 41S

Tracing Cloth, Tooth Powder LTsed on 346

Track System. Homemade Electric Locomo-
tive Model and:

Part I. — The Motor 231

Part II. — Construction of the Locomotive

Truck and Cab 237

Part III. — Construction of the Track Sys-
tem 243

Tractor. Tov. Built with Dry Cell and

Motor 9

Train Berth. Improvised Trousers Hanger in 367

Train. Writing on Moving 228

Trammels, How to Make a Pair of 166

Transfer Drawings, How to 138

Transferring Pictures to Gl.iss 443

Transmitting Writing, .Simple Machine for. . 442
Transplanting, Device for Packing Earth in 211

Transposing Temperature Readings 376

Trap for Covotes 306

Trap for Rabbits, Tile 184

Trap Nest for the Poultrv House 455

Trap, Self-Setting Rat 31

Trapdoor, Floor, Fuel Box in Seat Filled

from 332

Traveler's Kit, Soldier's or, for Sundries and

Toilet Articles 453

Tray Attachment for Developing Films 280

Tray, Developing, Cooler for 149

Tray for Top, Split-Bamboo, Folding Table

with 424

Tray, Handy, for Pencils and Penholders 430

Tray, Liquid-Pilled, Carried Safelv 439

Ti-iiy, Nonbinding Tool-Chest Slide 371

Trays, Cocoanut-Sliell 414

Trays, Index, Novel Covered Box for 414

Travs, Making Photographic 406

Travs. MufTin-Pan, Nail Cabinet with 230

Tree Stump, Ornamenting Old 123

Tree Stumps. Lawn Seats Built on 141

Trellis. Rustic, to Shade Door or Window... 175
Trenches. Miniature Fighting Tank That

Hurdles 202

Trick Blotter 354

Trick. Diminishing Card 396

Trick. Disappearing-Coin 144

Trick. Finger-Trap 377

Trick, Glass-and-Hat 342

Trick, Match-Box 230

Trick. Ring-and-Egg 84

Trick. Vanishing-Cuff Parlor 127

Tricks of Camping Out:

Part I — The Camping Outfit 109

Part II. — Cooking in the Woods 117

Trim Magazines for Binding, Knife to 286

Trimmer, Photr and Paper. Homemade Guide

for 366

475

Trimming: Board witli Foot Control and

Counterweight 308

Trinl<et Case for the Boolishelf, Secret 296

Tripod, Camera. Tilting Top for 242

Trips, Memorandum List for Camping and

Outing 365

Trophy Cup, Onlaying Script on 188

Trouble Lamp, Homemade 365

Trouser Hanger 350

Trousers Hanger, Improvised, in Train Berth 367

Truck, Gravity-Feed Coal Hopper on 140

TrucVt, Three-Caster, for Moving Crates and

Furniture 419

Trunk Bookcase for Convenient Shipment.. 217
Tub, Combination Laundry and Dishwashing

Sink 218

Tuberculosis Cottage, A 385

Tubes, Cardboard, for Electrical Coils, Mak-
ing 438

Tubes, Old Inner, Rubber Bands Made from. 268

Tubes, Paste, Wall Pocket for 16

Tubes, Squeezing Paste from 391

Tubing, Cane Made of. Contains Cigars 430

Tug-of-War Game, Device for Finger 319

Turbine, Small Hydraulic 427

Turned Cane with Snakes Inlaid 325

Turning Long Wood Rods 349

Turning Sheet Music Quicklv, Tabs for .f68

Turning, To Prevent Wire Coat Hook from 235

Turntable Stand for Potted Flowers 308

Twine Hammock, How to Make 277

Twisting Thriller Merry-Go-Round 179

Two Colors, Writing, on Plain-Ribbon Type-
writer 168

Type Cases, Cleaning with Bicycle Pump... 451

Typewriter Desk, Improvised 225

Typewriter, Emergency Tension Weight Used

" on 457

Typewriter, Feeding Cards into 437

Typewriter, Kinks in Cleaning 6

Typewriter, Plain-Ribbon, Writing Two Col-
ors on I*i8

Typewriter, Roll-Paper Feed for 207

Typewriter Space and Shift Keys, Pedals for

Increase Speed 364

Typewriter, TVire Clips Weight Paper in.. 409
Typewritten Bound Sheets, Inserting or Cor-
recting on 419

I'kulele, Homemade Hawaiian 358

Umbrella and Paper Muslin, Portable Tent

Made from 364

ITmbrella Handle, Making Detachable 439

Umbrella Used as a Clothes Drier 366

Umbrellas. Kinks on Care of 42'!

Uncork a Bottle with a String, To 402

Unsealed Envelopes, Safeguarding Contents

of 363

Use for Old Magazines 399

Uses for an Old Toothbrush 42S

Uses for Worn Talking-Machine Needles... 329

Utensil Rack for Camp Fire 397

Utensils. Kitclien, Cupboard for 396

Utilizing an Empty Paste Pot 306

Vacuum Pail, How to Make 315

Valve-Bottom Pail for Dipping Water 344

Valve, Radiator. .Ship's-Wheel Device for... 259

Valves on Gas Stove, Safety Cover for 298

Vanishing-Cuff Parlor Trick 127

Vaporizer. Homemade 346

Variable Condenser, Small 334

Vase, Test-Tube Flower, Stand for 21

A'aulting Pole, Scale on, Indicates Points of

Grip 411

Vehicle, Child's Play. Auto Horn for 16

Ventilation. Thorougli. Bedroom Shade and

Curtains Arranged for 128

Ventilator, Window 312

Veranda, Summer, Taborets and Small Ta-
bles for 269

Vest, Guard Saves Wear on 413

Vibrator. Double-Contact 140

View Finder. Camera, Rectangular Opening

to Use Over 125

View Finder, Direct, for Box Camera 353

A'ifws, Fireside Dissolving 351

Vise, Jig-Saw Table for 93

Vise, Quick-Acting Bench 85

A'ises for the Home Worlcbench, Tw,o Simple 197

Vulcanizer, Homemade 323

Wagon-Wheel Felly and Spoke, Mallet Made

from 157

Wagon Pole, Support for. Aids in Hooking

Up Team 5

Wagon Seat, Homemade Spring 440

Wall Back of Range or Sink, Protecting... 354

Wall Desk, Folding 292

Wall Fastening, Ironing-Board 318

Wall Paper, Kink for Removal of 295

Wall, Plaster of Paris to Set Screws into. . . . 266

Wall Pocket for Paste Tubes 16

Wall Shelves, Easily Constructed 108

Wall Workbench. Old Table Used as 440

Walls, Damp, Sliielding Pictures from 3.3S

Walks, Toy Horse That 363

Warships, Toy Paper 293

Washing Bromide Enlargements 336

Washing Device, Automatic Photo-Print.... 329
Washing Machine Equipped with Churn At-
tachment 208

Washing Machine, Photographic-Print 327

Washing Photographic Negatives and Prints,

Kinks in 181

Washstand for the Baby 328

Wastebasket, False Bottom for Emptying.. 344
Watch Bezel, Screw, Rubber Pads for Open-
ing 448

Watch Crystal, Timing Pointer on 364

Watch Holder, Desk 158

Watch, Mysterious 70

Watch or Clock, Muffling the Ticking of . . . . 223

Water Bag Camp 122

Water Basin for Poultry, Concrete 236

Water-Coasting Toboggan and Slide LS:!

Water Heater. Carbon Electric 356

Water, Irrigation. Current of Canal Raises.. 411
Water-jacket Outlet, Bilge Water Siphoned

Through 413

Water Pipe, Broken Spade Handle Repaired

with 242

Water Rheostat for Small Electrical Devices 196

Water Telescope. Interesting 228

Water, Valve-Bottom Pail for Dipping 344

Water Wheel Turns Spit Over Campfire... 429

Watering Window-Box Flowers 144

Waterproof Dry-Battery Case 265

Waterproofing for Fish Lines 94

Waterproofing Matches 230

Wear on Baby-Cab Tires, Changing Wheels

Equalizes 446

Wear on Drafting Board, Cork Plugs Save 21

Wear on Vest, Guard Saves 413

Webfoot Attachments for Swimmers 381

Weeding Garden, Forceps for 338

W^eeding Tool 248

Weeds, Grass and, To Keep Out of Tennis

Courts 149

Weight, Emergency Tension, Used on Type-
writer 457

Weighted Rope Holds Flag Upright 451

Weighting a Metal Base 217

Well. Rustic, for Bazaar or Fair Booth 182

Wheel, China Banding, Disk Talking Ma-
chine as 10

Wheelbarro\v as Tennis-Court Marker 397

Wheelbarrow for Large Cans 330

Wheels. Changing, Equalizes Wear on Baby-
Cab Tires 446

Wheels, Handy Tool for Tightening Wire

Spokes- in 450

Wheels, Model Gear, Gauge for Laying Out. . 384
Whipping of Flag, Chain Weight Prevents. 409

Whirligig, Perpetual 400

"Whirling Fan, Hand-Operated 398

Whirling Fan, Lighted, Used as Radiator

Ornament 260

Whistle, Hand-Operated Motorboat 178

Whistle Warns of Fish Catch 275

White Blotting Paper Improves Light Re-
flectors 196

Wick, Feeding. Stove Lighter with. Guards

Against Burns 459

Wick, Lighting Candle Without Touching. . 334

W^icks, Lamp, Cheaply Made 2.'i6

Wind. Lighting a Match in 382

Wind Motor. Sail Rigged 172

Wind Wire on Electrical Apparatus. How to. 136
Winder. Egg Beater Made into for Model

Aeroplanes 459

Winding Coiled Springs 134

Window-Advertising Novelty, Mot h-Ball

Puzzle as 444

Window-Box Flowers, Watering 144

Window Box, Hinged 413

Window Closer, Automatic 280

Window Display, Revolving 229

476

Window Frame and Table for Dark Room. 320

Window Refrigerator 323

■Window, Rustic Trellis to Shade Door or... 175

Window Sash. Lockinj^ 62

Window Ventilator 312

Windows, Horizontal Sliding, Hinge Lock

for 372

Windows. To Stop Rattling of 417

Wings, Covering Hinge 276

Winter. Making Use of Refrigerator in 344

Winter, Summer Radiator Cover Serves as

Cupboard in 297

Winter Use, Bee Feeder for 192

Winter Use. Bicvcle Runner for 418

W^ire Clips Weight Paper in Tvpewriter. . . . 409
Wire Coat Hook, To Prevent from Turning. . 235
Wire Compacts Bristles in Polish or Stencil

Brushes 439

Wire Holders Keep Cabinet Doors Open.... 127
Wire, How to Wind on Electrical Apparatus 136

Wire-Mesh Cage, Fisherman's Pail with 454

Wire Mesh. Preventing from Rising Be-
tween Fence Posts 93

Wire-Mesh Support for Flower Centerpiece. 34 4
Wire Netting, Asbestos Table Mats Rein-
forced with 421

Wire-Screen Pincushion 456

Wire Spokes in Wheels, Handy Tool for

Tightening 450

Wire Trellis Fastened Neatly to Brick

"Walls 8

Wire-Walking Tov ISO

Wireless Aerials. L-ightning Switch for 415

"U'ireless Detector. Simple . . . 4fi6

Wiring, Bell-Circuit. Tinned Staples for.... 4?0

Wishbone-Mast Ice Yacht 17

Wood Alcohol. Economical Use of in Small

Cooking Stove 210

Wood Box with a Refuse-Catch'-.g Drawer. 144
Wood, Driving Thin Metal into 247

Wood for Cabinetwork, Storage of 389

Wood. Groove Cutter for 45

Wood, Hard, Driving Screws in 94

Wood, Mechanical Toy Alligator of 460

Wood, Mechanical Toy Pigeon Made of 43:i

Wood Rods, Turning Long 349

Wood Turning on an Emery Grinder 402

Wood-Wind Instruments, Repairing 174

Wood. Working by Application of Heat 150

"Wooden Bullet. Toy Machine Gun Fires.... 408

Wooden Disks, Cutting Thin ]k

Wooden Strips. Enameled Armchair Made of 129

W^oods, Birch-Bark Leggings Made of 4"!

Woods. Cooking in the 117

W^oodsman's Log Raft '. I85

Woodwork. Gauge for ' ', . 252

Workbag in Top, Sewing Stand with!!.'!.'.'.' 293

Workbench. Home. Two Simple Vises for.. 197

Workbench. Pencil Holder for 236

Workbench, Placing Miter Box on 294

W^orkbench, Wall. Old Table Used as ' 440

Working Pile Driver. Small ois

Working Wood by Application of Heat...!! 150

W^orkshop Seat. Combination 370

Worn Talking-Machine Needles, Uses for.! 329

W^oven-Reed Footstool •'^;^

Woven Reed Furr iture .'.'.'. '.'.'26l' 269

Wrap Paners. Proper Wav for Mailing 44

W^rench. Fountain-Pen 273

Wrist, Blotter Attached to Saves Time . ! ! ! ! ! 295

Writrng and Drawing Pad. Cardboard 130

Writing Desk. Combination Bookcase and.. 316
Writing. Homemade Device Aids Blind Per-

.^ son 4R8

W^ritmg on a Moving Train . ... 228

Writing. Simple Machine for Transmitting- 442

X-Ray Lens. Feather as 412

Yardstick on Tool Rack 417

Internet Archive Audio

Featured

Top

Images

Featured

Top

Software

Featured

Top

Books

Featured

Top

Video

Featured

Top

Mobile Apps

Browser Extensions

Archive-It Subscription

Save Page Now

Full text of "The boy mechanic; more than 500 projects for the young home craftsman"

See other formats