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BRADSHAW'S 

ILLUSTRATED 

HAND-BOOK TO ITALY, 



INOLUDINQ 



SICILY AND SARDINIA: 

OEMING A COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE WHOLE COUNTRY 
UNDEB ITS PEESENT TEERITORIAL DIVISIONS : 
ADAPTED TO THE RAILWAY SYSTEM ; 

WITH MAPS AND PLANS. 



NEW EDITION. 



_ , LONDON : 

W. J. ADAM") ft SONS (BRADSHAW'S GUIDE OFFICE), 50, FLEET STREET, H.O.; 

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1894, 



PREFACE. 



This Hand-Book to Italy, fonnmg one of Bradshaw's series of 
Guides, embraces the whole extent of the Italian Peninsula, according 
to the territorial divisions now established. 

It offers to the Traveller or Resident, in one moderately sized 
volume, a complete description of every place and locality of any 
importance — ^with a particular account of all the Gralleries, Works of 
Art, Buildings, Sights, Natural Scenery, and other objects of interest ; 
and, as usual, it is adapted throughout to the latest development of 
the Eailway system. Ample details are given of Modem and Ancient 
Rome, as well as of Naples, Florence, Venice, Milan, Turin, Genoa, 
Bologna, &c, (including the latest antiquarian discoveries), undei their 
respective heads. 

We shall esteem it a favour if those who use the work will have 
the goodness to forward any corrections or suggestions for improving 
it, to 69, Fleet Street, London ; or Albert Square, Manchester, 



CONTENTS. 



INTEODUOTION. 



I.— USEFUL INFORMATION:— 



Carriage Trayelling 

Chiirches » 

Guides 

Hotels 

Luggage ^ 

Money .......m. ..•.!....••« 

Passports m 

Postage.... .» 

Post Trarelling 

Railways in Italy ......^ 

Routes to Itaty 

Tables of the former Italian Coinage, 

with its value in English Money 

Weights and Measures 

II.— SKETCH OF ITALY:— 



Ancient dirlsions of Italy . 

Army... 

Baths and Mineral Waters. 

OHniate « 

Coastline ......^ ^ 

Education 

Income 

Ulands 

Lakes 

La&gnageM«......M..M 



Page 
xvili. 
xvUi. 
xviii. 
xvi. 
xviiL 

XV. 
XV. 

xvi. 

xviii. 

xvll. 

xviL 

XV. 

xvi. 
xxiiii 

XX. 

xxi. 

xxii. 
xxi. 

XX. 
XX. 

xxi. 

xxi. 

xxiii. 



Page 

Manufactures xxii. 

Mountains - xx. 

Natural Features xx. 

wavy ................................................ XX. 

Plains • xxi. 

Political Features m... ..» xviii. 

Population xix. 

Ports, principal xxi. 

Products xxii. 

Rivers xxi. 

Volcanoes .■ xxi. 

Winds xxi. 

in. — THE FINE ARTS— CHRONOLOGICAL 
LISTS, Act- 
Alphabetical List of Italian Painters, 

Sculptors, and Architects xxv. 

Architecture xxiv. 

Books xxxvi. 

Chronological List of Important Evrats, 

Roman Emperors, Popes, Sovereigns, 

Doges, Artists, &c xxvii. 

Distances of the Principal Railway 

Stations from Florence xxxvii. 

Painting xxiv. 

Schools of Painting xxiv. 

Skeleton Route to Turin xxxvi. 



r 



SECTION I. 

NORTHERN ITALY. 

Route. Page 

1. Turin to Bussolino, Susa, Mont Cenis, and 

Mont Gen^vre 6 

9. „ to Pin«t>lo and the Waldenses* or 

Vaudois Country 6 

S. „ to Saluzzo and Monte Viso, Cuneo, 

Baths of Valdieri, Col diTenda, 

and Nice 7 

4. n to Alessandria and Genoa, through 

the Ligurian Apennines; and 
to Alessandria and Piacenca.^ 9 

5. tt to Chivaaso, Yereelll, Yalenza, No- 

. vara, Magenta, and Milan 11 



Route. Page 

6. Turin to Ivrea, Aosta, the Great and Little 

St. Bernard, and the Mont Blanc 
District; and to the Castella- 
monte District «.. 14 

7. „ to Biella, Varallo, Lake of Orta, and 

the Upper Novarese 17 

8. „ toNovara, Arona,andLakeMaggiore 18 

9. Nice to Genoa, alongthe Riviera diPonente, 

or Comiche Road m. 19 

10. Genoa, by the Riviera di Levante, to Spezia, 

Lucca, Pisa, Leghorn, and 
Florence 28 

11. Milan to Gallarate and Lake Maggioi^... 29 

12. „ to Lecco, Camerlata, and Como ... 37 

13. „ to Bergamo, Brescia^SoU«BVswc»Aj»^ 

dl Qttx4L«^¥«w&Yi^«t«KN vstoa^^V- 



vi. 



OOlfTBVTS. 



Route. Page. 

14. Milan to the Certosa, Pavia, Alessandria, 

and Qenoa 63 

16. „ to Piacenza, Panna, Modena, and 

Bologna 66 

16. „ to Treyiglio, Cremona, Mantua, and 

Parma 68 

17. Verona to Trento 64 

18. „ to Mantua, Modena, and Bologna ... 64 

19. Venice to Treviso, Undine, and Trieste ... 69 
19 (Continued). Venice to Vienna 88 

30. Venice and Padua to Arqu^^ Este, Rovigo, 

Ferrara, and Bologna 89 

31. Bologna to Florence 98 

32. „ to Gastel Bolognese (for Ravenna), 

Rimini, and Ancona ^8 



SECTION n. 



CENTRAL ITALY 



28. Pisa to Empoli and Florence 109 

34. „ to Lucca, Pistoja, and Florence. 118 

25. „ to Leghorn, Cecina, Saline, Volterra, 

Elba, Grosseto, Civita Vecchia, 
and Rome 116 

26. Florence to Empoli, Siena. Asciano ,Chiusi, 

Ficulle, Orvieto, Bolsena, and 
Rome 130 

26. (Continued). Florence to Rome, vid Empcdi, 

Siena, Ac 136 

27. Florence to Arezzo, Perugia, Aasisi, 

Foligno, Spoleto, Temi, Orte, and 
down the Tiber to Rome 143 

28. AnconatoFano,Fos8ombrone,Urbino, and 

over the Apennines to Arezzo, and 
Florence; or to Fossombrone, 
Oagli, Sigillo, Nocera, Foligno, 
&c., and Rome- 161 

29. „ to Rome by rail, vid Jesi, Fossato, 

Nocera, Foligno, Spoleto, Temi 
Falls, Orta, and down the Tiber... 166 

30. „ to Loreto, Fermo, and Pescara, on the 

rail to Foggia,Trani, and Brindisi 166 

31. Temi to Aquila, Solmona, Popoli, Chieti, 

and Pescara ; or to Solmona, Iser- 
nia.Capua, and Naples 169 

32. Rome, description of 161-223 



SECTION m. 

SOUTH ITALY -SICILY-SARDINIA. 

Route. Page 

33. (Continued). Rome to Naples, by railway, 
vid Ciampino, Albano, Velletri, 
Frosinone, Ceprano, Preseniano, 
Capua, Cancello, Ac; or by road, 
vid Terracina, Fondi, and Oatfta, 

and the Coast 237 

88. Castellammare to Chieti, Popoli, Solmona, 
Isemia, Capua, and Naples; across 

the Penhisula 388 

84. Pescara to Termoli,Foggia,&Manfredonta 284 

86. Naples, description of 385-61 

86. (Conthwed). Naples to Foggia— by rail, vid 
Aversa, Caserta, Benevento, and 
Ariano; or by rail and road, vid 
Nola, Montfort. Avellino, and 
Ariano 261 

86. Naples to Eboli, Muro, Melfi, Ascolia, and 

Foggia 368 

87. „ to Eboli, Potenza, Metaponto for 

Taranto, thence to Bari, and to 
Brindisi 368 

88. Foggia to Cerignola (for Canosa and 

CanniB), Trani, Bari (forTaranto), 
Ostuni, Brindisi, Lecce, QallipoU, 
and Otranto 264 

89. Bari to Taranto, Torremare, Cariati, Cot- 

rone, Catanzaro, and Reggio; 
towards Sicily 267 

40. Naples to Eboli, Auletta, Castrovillari, 

Cosenza, Nicastro, Gioja, Reggio, 
and Sicily 269 

41. Sicily.— Palermo to Messina, by the North 

Coast, vid Bagheria, Termini, 
Patii, Milazzo, Ac. 278 

42. Palermo to Trapani by Calatafiini (for 

Segesta), Castelvetrano (for Seli- 

nunte) and Marsala 280 

48. Palermo to Girgenti and Porto Empedocle, 
vid Roccapalumba, Lercara, Ac- 
quaviva, and Aragona-Caldare... 382 

44. Girgenti to S3a'acuse by Palma, Lioata, 

Terranova, Modica, and Noto; or 
by Terranova Caltaglrone, and 
Lentini 288 

45. Syracuse to Catania and Mount Etna 284 

46. „ to Messina, across the Island — 

The Lipari Islands.. 288 

47. Sabdinia.— Porto Torres to Cagliari 290 

48. La Maddalena to Sassari *.... 298 



INDEX. 



For wiM Lakes, Moontains, and Valleys, tet under those heads in th$ Index. 



Abano, 53, 89 
Abbasanta, 390 
Abbiategrosso, 12, 37 
Abetone, 116 
Abnizzi, 168-9 
Acerra, 282 
Aci Castdlo, 287 
AeiBeale,.287 
Acqnabona, 117 
Acquapendente, 141 
Acqni, 10 
Acragas, 282 
Aderno, 288 
Adige RiTer, 84 
Adria,89 
Agerola, 350 
Agira, 288 
Agropoli, 256 
AlmayiUe, 15 
Airasca, 6 
Ala, 64 
Alassio, 20 
Alatri,229 
Alba 7 

Alba*Longa, 220 
Albaccina, 155 
Alban Lake, 220 
Albano, 220,227 
Albate-Camerlata, 87 
Albenga, 20, 119 
Albissola, 1 
AIcaino,280 
Alessandria, 9, 53 
Alessano, 267 
Algbero,291 
Alicndi, 289 
Alpignano,6 
Al8eno,58 
Altamunt, 264 
AlUTllIa, 278 
Alyiano, 141 
Amalfi,254 
Ambroglo, 6 
Amelia, 151 
Amendolo, 235 
Amlternam, 16S 
Anacapri, 260 
Anagni, 229 
Ancoma, 105, 151 
Andorno, 17 
Angri,254 
Anio River, 221 
Antrodoco, 159 
Aosta, 15, 16 
ApenninoMountaiiis,xxt., 

10,98,131,164,158,263 
Apice, 262 



Aquabona, 117 
AquaB Albulm, 221 
Aqoila, 158, 160, 233 
Aquino, 230 
Aragona, 282, 283 
Arce, 229, 280 
Arcole,48 
Arcore, 37 
Ardara, 291 
Arena Po, 11 
Arezzo, 186, 144, 154 
Argenta, 92 
Argiro,289 
Ariano,262 
Ariccia, 221 
Amo River, 113. 121 
Arona, 13, 18, 37 
Arpino,229 
Arqnk, 89 
Arqali, 89 
Arqnata, 10 
Arqnato, 158 
Arsiero, 50 
Asciano, 140 
Ascoli, 263 
Ascoli Piceno, 158 
Asolo, 50 
Aspromonte, 271 
Assemini, 290 
Assisi, 148 
Asti, 9, 12, 37 
Atella, 263 
Atina, 231 
Atrl, 169 
Atripalda, 263 
Attigliano, 141, 142 
Augusta, 285 
Auletta, 269 
Avella, 262 
Avellino,232,262 
Avenza, 29 
Aversa, 229, 261 
Avezzano, 230 
Avise Castle, 16 
Avola, 283 



Baccano, 143 
Badia, 47 
Bagalbuto, 288 
Bagheria, 278 
Bagnacavallo, 99 
Bagnara, 272 
Bagnola, 42, 64 
Bagnoli, 53 
Bais, 258 



Baiano, 247 

Balsorano, 230 

Balvano, 263 

Bainbolo, 118 

Baragiano, 263 

Barcellona, 278 

Bardonnechia, 6 

Barge, 6 

Bari, 264, 265 

Barile, 263 

Barletta, 265 

Bassano, 50 

Bastia, 7, 148 

Battaglia, 89 

Battipaglia, 255 

Baveno, 18 

Becca di Nona, 15 

Beiaore, 157 

Bella, 363 

Bellaggio, 37 

BcUinzona, 19, 38 

Bellizza, 255 

Belluno, 88 

Benevento, 262 

Bergamo, 39 

Bemalda, 268, 268 

BianconuoTO, 268 

Biasca, 38 

Bibbianello, 62 

Bicocea, 285 

Biella, 17 

BUetto, 264 

Bisceglie, 265 

Bisignano, 268 

Bittonto, 265 

Bivona, 288 

Bobbio, 7 

Bologna, 92 
Academy (Pictures), 96 
Baccioccbi Palace, 97 
Bentivoglio Palace, 97 
Bevilacqua Palace, 97 
Campo Santo, 96 
Cathedral, 94 
Churches, 94 
Leaning Towers, 93 
Madonno di S. Lnca, 96 
Museum, 96 
Palaces, 97 
Palazzo Pubblico, 94 
Pepoli Palace, 97 
Pinacoteca, 96 
8. Domenico, 94 
S.GiacomoMaggiore,95 
S. Michele in Bosco, 96 
S. Petiouio, 94 
S. Stefano, 95 



BOLOQV A— Continued. 

Theatres, 97 

Unlrei-sity, 96 
Bolsena, 141 
Bonorva, 291 
Bordighera, 20 
Borghetto, 20, 28, 136, 151 
Borgo di Panigale, 98 
Borgof orte, 68 
Borgo Franco, 14 
Borgo S. Dalmazzo, 8 
Borgo S. Donino, 58 
Borgo S. Martino, 12 
Borgo TIcino, 18 
Borgo Vercelli, 13 
Bormio, 38 
Bosa, 291 

Boscolnngo, 98, 116 
Bourg Mont Gen^vre, 6 
Bova, 268 
Bovino, 262 
Bozzolo, 64 
Bracciano, 143 
Bracco, 28 
Brk St. Vittoria, 7 
Brenta River, 70 
Brescia, 40 
BriauQon, 6 
Brianza, 87 
Beikdisi, 266 
Brolo, 278 
Broni, 11 
Bronte, 287 
BucciuoJJ63 
Buflfalor^l3 
Buonalbergo, 262 
Burano, 87 
Bussoleno, 6 
Buttrio, 88 



Cabbo-Roquebrune, 20 
Cadenabbia, 38 
Cadore, 88 
Cagli, 154 
Cagliari, 292 
Caianiello, 231, 234 
Calatafimi, 280 
Calacibetta, 288 
Calciano, 263 
Caldare, 278 
Caldlero, 47 
Calimara, 267 
Calolzio, 37, 40 
Caltagirone, 28« 
Caltauisctta, 288 
Caluso^ 14, 16 



L'lmpoiU. 14« 
LliWn«1l>, 10 
Ltpu-l.lMS 
LlTerofirne, IS 
Loano, 30 
Lodl. U 



Lnclgnaiia, 1« 
Lngiiio, S» 



I MM|!SioreLako,16,*T 
I """'i^^Vsn 

I HaJeUn (Miiii)o], Itt 



!!Si2S„ 

MiU<wiUiiUi, U 
Uanfredonti, sa 

MiriiiiDpolL I^ 



KtleanuH, U 
MkIB.IM 






CilliKlciil, 30 
IIoipLlfll, 9G 
LaiC Sapi4i' (L. ila 



UodUmMt 

ii(idBaBa.su 

HdU <U Burt 3M 



Pindli, Onnd 1G 

Plcchliiiino, 
Porik), 3111 
aiblUi, 1ST 

SorBcle. ISI, 22> 

Vetnvioi, US 

Monte Ciu Psu. SO 



ontBlBOM. 40, ni 



Honie{i<lo», Ml 



Camaldolt QaDTent, 

Camom, 247 
Carmine Chnrch,SW 

Cathedral. >30 
Cemetery, 24a 

E'enti of' IMO, MO 
EicnrilDiia Irom, 3*1 

HercDlanenm. 9tt 



Fompell. :m 

S. Flllppo NbI, mi 



tKBBX. 



XU 



8. Papio, 241 

S. Sfverino, 241 

$aii Carlo, 238 

(Mbyl's Cave, 258 

Squares, 238 

Strada Toledo, 287 

Theatres, 245 

Universities, Colleges, 
Ac, 244 

Villas, 245 

Vesuvius, 248 

Virgil's Tomb, 246 
Nardo, 267 
Nami, 150 
Narzole, 7 
Na8,15 

Navacchio, 118 
Nemi, 220 
Nervi, 28 
Ncttuno, 227 
Nicastro, 270 
Nice, 9, 19 
Nichellino, 6 
Nicolosi, 2b 8 
Nicosia, 289 
Niella, 8 
Nisida, 256 
Nocera, 155, 232, 254 
Nola, 232, 262 
Noli, 21 
Norcia, 158 
Noto, 283 
Novara, 13 
Nova Sirl, 268 
Novi, 10 
Nulci, 294 
Nnoro, 291 



OiBda Cast, dl Lama, 158 
Oleggio, 18 
Qlei-ano, 221 
Olgiate, 87 
Oliver!, 278 
Oliveto, 263 
Olmeneta, 42, 64 
Omegna, 18 
Oneglia, 8, 20 
Oppido, 264, 272 
Orbetello, 119 
Orciano, 117 
Ordona, 268 
Oristano, 292 
Orsara, 262 
Orto, 13, 18 
Orte, 186, 142, 151 
Ortier Spitze, 88 
Ortoiia,2d4 
Orrieto, 1M,140 




Ostunl, 2(td 
Otranto, 267 
Otricoli, 151 
Oulx,6 
Ozieri. 29l 



Pabillonis, 291 
Paderno, 37 
Padua, 50-^53 
Padula, 269 
Paesana, 8 
Paestuni, 255 
Pagaui, 254 
Palagonia, 284 
Palazzolo, 40, 288 
Palermo, 274 
Palestina, 87 
Palestrina, 221 
Palidoro, 120 
Palinuro, 269 
Pallanza, 19 
Palma, 232, 288 
Palmi, 271 
Palo, 120 
Panaria, 289 
Panicale, 145 
Pantellaria, 282 
Paolo, 270 • 

Paradis, Grand 15 
Paratico, 40 
Parma, 58, 64 
Partinico, 280 
Pasian Schiavonesco, 88 
Passignano, 145 
Patemb, 287 
Patti, 278 

Paulilatino, 291, 292 
Pausnia, 167 
Pavia, 55 
Pedaso, 158 
Pegli, 21 
Penne, 233 
Pentima, 233 
Perouse, 7 
Pertosa, 269 
Perugia, 146 
Pesaro, 104 
Pescara, 159, 234 
Peschiera, 44 
Pescia, 115 
Pettorano, 233 
Piacenza, 11, 57 
Piadcna, 64 
Pianella, 233 
Pianosa, 119 
PIctra, 21 
Pietra Santa, 29 
Pietramala, 98 
Pieve di Cadore, 88 
Pignataro, 231 
PUvedl Cadore, 88 
FiBiiwiln, a 
- 118 



PuA, 109-118 
Pisciotta. 256 
Pisticci, 263, 268 
Pistoja, 98, 115 
Pizzighettone, 57 
Pizzo, 271 

Pizzuto di Melfi, 263 
Plaisano, 272 
Pliny's Villa, 154 
Ploaghe, 291 
Poggibonsi, 187 
Pogglo Renatico, 92 
Pojano, 50 
Polesella, 89 
Policastro, 269 
Pollcoro, 268 
Polignano, 265 
Poli8t«na, 272 
Pompeii, 250-254 
Pomptine Marshes, 227 
Ponzana, 13 
Pontassieve, 135, 143 
Ponte a Elsa, 137 
Ponte a Serragllo, 115 
Pontebba, 88 
Puntecagnano, 255 
Pontecorvo, 230 
Pontecurone, 11 
Ponte ddla Selve, 40 
Pontedera, 113 
Ponte dl Brenta, 58 
Ponte Felice, 151 
Ponte Galera, 120 
Ponte Ginori, 118 
Pontelagoscuro, 89 
Ponte Molle. 143, 151 
Pontenuve, 58 
Ponte Piave, 88 
Ponte S. Giovanni, 148 
Ponte S. Marco, 42 
Ponte S. Pictro, 40 
Ponte Valentino, 262 
Pontine Marshes, 227 
Pontremoli, 29 
Ponzana, 13 
Popoli, 233 
Populonia, 118 
Pordenone, 88 
Porlezza, 38 
Porretta, 98 
Po River, 1, 8, 55, 63, 89 
Portella, 228 
Portlci, 260 
Porto, 223 
Porto Ceresio, 89 
Porto Givitonova, 167 
Porto d'Anzio, 223 
Porto Empcdocle, 281 
Porto Ferrajo, 118 
Portogruaro, 88 
Porto Recanati, 156 
Porto S. Giorgio, 158 
Porto Maurisio,.f 
Potto Toawaa^t 



PoBchlavo, 88 
Posillp9, 256 
Posltano, 254 
Possagno, 50 
Poteuza, 263 
Potenza Piceua, 157 
Pozzuoli, 257 
Pracchia, 98 
Pragano, 255 
Prato, 116 
Pratollno, 135 
Prato Magno, 148 
Presenzano, 231, 234 
Pr^ St. Didler, 16 
Procida, 260 
Pula, -295 

Quadema, 98 
Quattro Castelli, 62 

Racalmuto, 283 
Racconigi, 7 
Ragalbuto, 289 
Ragusa, 283 
Randazzo, 287 
Rapallo, 28 
Rapolano, 140 
Rapolla-Lavello, 235 
Ravello, 264 
Ravenna, 99 
Recanati, 156 
Recco, 28 
Rocina, 156 
Recoaro Baths, 50 
Reggio(Calabria)268, 27 
Reggio (Emilia), 61 
Regillus Lake, 221 
Rende S. FUi, 268 
Resina, 250 
Resintta, 88 
Rezzato, 42 
Rho, 14 
Riardo, 231 
Ribis Rizzolo, 88 
Rieti, 159 
Rignano, 143 
Rimini. 103 
Rio Marino, 118 
Rlonera, 233 
Rioncro, 263 
Ripafratla, 113 
Rlparbella, 117 
Rlpalta, 234 
Ripatransone, 158 
Ripomerancio, 118 
Rltorto, 270 
Riva (Lake Como), 38 
Riva (Lake Garda), 64 
Rivalta, 65 
Rivarolo, 16 
Riviera di Levante, 28 
Riviera di P<meQt^V^ 
Rivo^^*^ 



xii. 



tjxnux. 



Rivolta, 379 
Robilante, 9 
Roccadebaldi, 8 
Rocca d'EvandrOt 281 
Rocca di Papa, 220 
Roooap^ombn, 282 
Roccarasa, 238 
Roccasecca, 280 
Roccastrada, 140 
Rocca Imperiale, 268 
Rocca Romana, 148 
Rocca Valle Oscnra, 388 
Roccheta Meia, 268 
Roccheti, 50 
Rocella lonica, 268 
Ro?{iriano, 268 
Rogliano, 270 
Rogoredo, 58, 56 
Romagnano, 18, 263 
Rome, 161 

Ancient, 208-18 

Academies, 207 

American Church, 162 

American Legation, 
]62 

Apollo Belvedere, 197 

Aqueducts, 170, 210 

Arches, 210 

Atrium VestaB, 210 

Basilicas, 174 

Br.ths, 211 

Benevolent Institu- 
tions, Hospitals, dec ^ 
207 

fridges, 167 

Briti^ Embassy, 161 

Business Directory, 162 

Campagna, 218 

Capitol, The, 200 

Carriages, 161 

Castel S. Angelo, 218 

Catacombs, 219 

Chief Objects of 
Notice, 168 

Churches, 162, 178 

Churches outside 
Rome, 198 

Circuses, 211 

Clubs, 162 

Colleges, 207 

Colosseum, 212 

Columns, 213 

Dying Gladiator, 201 

Egeria,Fountain of, 214 

English and American 
Bankers, 162 

English Church, 162, 
193 

Excursions from 

Rome, 218 
Foram, The, 209 
^^SS^ «id Basilicas, 



RoinB~C(0fi(<ntie(f. 

Galleries, 162 

Gates, 171 

Ghetto, 168 

Holy Week, 174 

Hotels, 161 

Inscriptions in Cata- 
combs, 196 

LaocoSn, 197 

Lateran, 180, 300 

Libraries, 207 

Money, 161 

Mosaics, 199 

Municipal Districts,166 

Obelisks, 170 

Omnibuses, 161 

Painters. 164 

PalaceoftheC8a8ar8,214 

Palaces and Villas, 202 

Pantheon, 215 

Papal Establishm^it, 
173 

Peter's, St., 176 

Physician, and Accou- 
cheur, 162 

Pontifical Palaces, 198 

Population, 161, 178 

Post Office, 162 

Principal Church n 
Festivals, 174 

Professional Direc- 
tory, 162 

Public Offices, 163 

Quirinal and Lateran 
Palaces, 199 

Railways, 162 

Remains of Ancient 
Rome, 208 

■Roads, 172 

Roman Art, 164 

Rostra, 209 

Banta SiariaMaggiore, 
181 

Sculptors, 164 

Seven Hills, The, 165 

Sistine Chapel, 194 

S. Paolo Fuori Le 
Mura, 182 

Squares, 168 

Steam Communica- 
tion, 162 

St. Peter's, 176 

Streets, dec, 167 

Telegraph Office, 162 

Temples, 215 

Theatres, 162, 171 ; 
(Ancient), 217 

Tiber River, 167 

Tombs and Mauso- 
leums, 217 

Tre Fontaue, 190 

University, The, 207 

Vatican Palace and 
IfaseniB, 168^ 19< 



Via Appia, 219 

Villas, 163, 206 

Walls, 165 

Week at Rome, 168 

Weights and Measures, 
161 
Ronchi, 88 
Ronciglione, 143 
Ronco, 11 
Ronco River, 99 
Rosamo, 271 
Roseto, 268 
Rossano, 268 
Rovato, 39 
Roverbella, 65 
Roveredo, 64 
Rovigo, 89 
Rubicon River, 103 
Rubiera, 62 
Russi. 99 
Ruvo, 265 

S. Andrea, 268 

S. Andrea del Lido, 87 

S. Angela In Vado, 153 

S. Antimo, 261 

S. Arcangelo, 108 

S. Basilic, 268 

S. Benedetto Tront^ 158 

S. Bernardino, 38 

S. Biagio, 270 

S. Bonifacio, 47 

S. Casciano, 186 

S. Cataldo, 286, 288 

S. Clementi, 254 

S. Dalmazzo di Tenda, 9 

S. Dona di Piave, 88 

S. Dorinino, 113 

S Elpidio, 157 

S. Fillppo d'Arglro, 289 

S. Gavino, 290 

S. Genesio, 11 

S. Giorgio, 290 

S. Giovanni, 148, 292 

S. Giovanni d'Asso, 140 

S. Giovanni Manzano, 88 

S. Giovanni Persiceto, 97 

S. Giuliano, 113 

S. Giulietta, 11 

S. Giuseppe di Cairo, 8, 10 

S. Giustino, 144, 153 

S. Ilario, 61 

S. Lazzaro, 87 

S. Lorenzo, 20 

S. LorenzoMaggiore,262 

S. Lussurgiu, 291 

S. Marco Argentine, 268 

S. Marino, 104 

S. Martino, 6, 47 

S. Martino d. Battaglia44 

S. Miniato, 118 

S. Nlcolo, 11 



8. Piero, 116 
S.Pierre, 16 
S. Pietro in Cattle 
S. Qnirico, 11 
S. Remo, 20 
S. Remy, 16 
S. Sepolero, 154 
S. Scverino, 167 
S. Severe, 284 
S. Sisto, 270 
S. Stefano, 20, 378 
S. Tcdoro, 268 
S. Valenthio, 288 
S. Vincent, 16 
S. Vincent (Baths) 
S. Vincenzo, 118 
S. Vito, 23 1 
S. Vito d'Otranto, 
Sta. Maria Ma«ldal< 
Sacile, 88 
Sala, 2^9 

Salandira Grotte, 3 
Salcini, 140 
Sale, 8 
Salerno, 255 
Salina. 289 
Salo, 64 
Saluzzo, 8 
Samassi, 292 
Samoggia, 63 
Sangiorgio, 233 
Sanluri, 293 
Sannazzaro, 56 
Sanseverino, 157, 2 
Santa Agata, 229 
Santa Caterina C 

288 
Santa Elena, 87 
Santa Eufemia, 27* 
Santafede, 263 
Santa Margherita, 
Santa Maria deg 

geli, 148 
Santa Maria di C 

232 
Santa Maria della ( 

231 
Santa Maria Made 

89 
Santa Maria Mag 

282 
Santa Marinella, 1 
Santa Severa, 120 
Santhia, 12 
Sant 'Orsola, 29Q 
Santuario, 8 
Sabddiia, 290 
Samo, 232 
Saronno, 87 
Sarzana, 29 
Sassano-Tegiano. 
Sa8sari.391,29^ 
Basso, 98 
Aamiu>1(H-68 



zUL 



Savlgliano, 8 - 

Savignano-Greci, MS 
Savona, 8, 31 
Scafati, 254 
Scala, 264 
Scala di Giocci, 391 
Hcaletta, 280, 288 
Bcarena, 9 
Schieggia, 154 
Schio, 50 
Sciacca, 281 
Scigliano, 270 
43cma, 273 
ficoglitti, 283 
Scopa, 17 
Soopoli, 157 
Becngnago, 57 
Sege8ta,281 . 
Segni, 221, 229 
Selinnnte, 281 
Seminara, 272 
Seregno, 37 
Seriate, 40 
Berra Capriola, 234 
Serradif alco, 286, 288 
Serramanna, 290 
Berra S. Quirico, 155 
Serravalle, 10, 115, 157 
Seasa Aurunca, 229 
Sestri di Ponente, 21 
Sestri Levante, 28 
Sesto, 37, 116 
Besto Calende, 37 
Settimo, 11 
8eve8o« 87 
Sgnrgola, 229 
Sibari, 268 
Bicignano, 263 
Sicilian Vespers, 275 
Sicily, 273 
Siculiana, 282 
Siena, 137 
Sigilk), 155 
fiigna, 113 
BiUqua, 292 
Simplon. 19 
Sinalunga, 140 
Binigaglia, 105 
Solfatara, 221 
Solferlno, 43 
Solino, 372 
.Solmona, 233 
Bolofra, 232 
Solopaca, 262 
Somma, 37 

Somma Campagna, 44 
flondrio^ 38, 40 
Bora, 229 
Borrento, 253 
JSospello, 9 
Boveria Manelli, 270 
BparaalBe, 381 
BpartlT«nto, Cape, 366, 
978 



Bpello, 149 
SpexiE La, 98 
Spezzano Albaneae, 870 
Spez zana-CastroTiilari, 

268 
Spigno, 10 
Spliigen Pass, 88 
Spoleto, 149 
S|K>tomo, 21 
Squillace, 868, 371 
Starza, 262 
Stelvio, 38 
St. Gothard Tunnel Rali, 

38 
Stradella, 11 
Stresa, 18 
Strevi, 10 
Stromboli, 289 
Strongoli, 268 
Stnpinigi, 6 
Snbiaco, 222 
Superga, 5 
Snsa, 6 
Sutri, 142 
Snzzara, 68 
Sybaris, 270 
Sybil's Cave, 258 
Stbacuse, 283 



Taoimina, 287 
Taranto, 264, 267 
Tarcento, 88 
Tarsia, 268, 270 
Teano, 231 
Telamone, 119 
Telese, 262 
Tempio, 294 
Tenda,9 
Teramo, 159 
Termini Imerese, 278 
Termoli, 234 
Teml, 150 

Terontola, 186, 143, 145 
Terracina, 228 
Terranova, 283, 291 
Terra Nuora, 272 
Testrina, 169 
Thiene, 50 

Thrasymenus Lake, 145 
Three Tarems, 220, 227 
Tiber River, 187 
Ticino River, 65 
Tirano, 88 
Tiriolo, 270 
Tissi-Usini, 391 
TrvoLi, 221 
Tocco, 233 
Tolentino, 167 
Tolve, 264 

Tora Presenzano, 384 
Torcello, 87 
Torralba, 391 
Torre, 50 



Torre Aonimiiftto, SM 

Torremare, 968, 368 

Torreberetti, 66 

Torre Cerchiara, 368 

Torre de Gonfini, 838 

Torre del Greco, 360 

Torre del Lago, 39 

Torre Masdea, 871 

Torrenieri, 119,140 

Torre Pellice, 6 

Torrita, 140 

Torrito, 364 

Tortona, 11 

Trani, 265 

Trapani, 283 

Trebbia River, 68 

Trebisacoe, 268 

Trecate, 13 

Tre Fontane, 190 

Tiento, 64 

Tres Nnraghes, 291 

Tres Tabern», 220 

TrevI, 149 

Trevico, 263 

Treviglio, 39 

Treviso, 60, 88 

Tricesimo, 88 

Trieste, 89 

Trino, 11 

Trivigno, 863 f 

Troflfarelio, 7, 9 

Tnrbia, 19 

Turin, 1-6, 8 
Academy of Science, 

Pictures, dec, 4 
Armoury, 3 
Cathedral, 3 
Chnrches, 8 
Corpns Domini, 3 
Egyptian Museum, 4 
Gran Madre di Dio, 8 
Hospitals, 6 
Monuments, 6 
Museum, 4 
Palaces, 2, 4 
Palazzo Madama, 2 
Piazza Castello, 2 
Picture Galleries, 4 
S. Filippo Ncri, 3 
Superga, 5 
Theatres, 4 
University, 4 

Tusculum, 220, 221 



Udine, 88 
Umbertide, 144 
Uras, 292 
tTrbania, 153 
Urbino, 153 
Usmate, 37 
UsUca, 278 



Vad<«Sl 
YagUo, 868, 364 
Yal BregaglU, 88 
Valcimara, 167 
Valdagno, 48, 50 
Valdamo, 185, 148 
Val di Bhsenzio, 116 
Yal di Bova. 386, 387 
Valdiera, 48 
Yaldieri Baths, 8 
Yaleggio, 65 
Yalenza, 12 

Yalle di Maddaloni, 363 
Yallelnnga, 378 
Yalleys — 

Amo, 185 

D'Aosta, 14 

De Challant, 14 

De Champorcher, 14 . 

Di Chiana, 145 . 

Lucema, 6 

Perosa, 6 

Po, 8 

Tiber, 140 
Yallombrosa, 135 
Yal Mesocco, 38 
Yalmontone, 239 
Yalsavoia, 285 
Yaltellina, 38 
Yalvo, 263 
Yarallo, 13, 17 
Yarazze, 21 
Yarese, 87, 38 
Yarigotti, 21 
Yasto, 234 
Yelleja, 58 
Yelletri, 227 
Yenaf ro, 234 
Yenice, 69-^8 

Academy of Fine Aria 
(Pictures), 79 

Archives, 82 

Arsenal, 78 

Bridge of Sighs, 77 

Ci d'Ore, 86 

Campanile Tower, 74 

Cathedral, 72 

Chioggla, 87 

Correr Museum, 86 

Custom House, 81 

Doges' Palace, 74 

Fenice Theatre, 88 

S. Francesco della Yig' 
na,78 

Frnri Church, 82 

Ornnd Canal, 70 

Grimani Palace, 84 

Law Court, 80 

Libreria Yecchia, 77 

Lido, 87 

Muraiio, 86 

Piazza S. Marco, 73 

Procuratie NuovexTT 



xiy. 



IKBBX. 



YMKicit^Continuid. 
Qiierini Library, 84 
Kedentore Church, 81 
Rialto Bridge, 81 
Salute Church, 79 
Scaizi Church, 81 
Scuola S. Rocco, 83 
8. Giorgio Maggiore^ 

79 
SS. Uiovanni e Paol, 

84 
8. Marciliaiio, 85 
8. Salyatore, 88 
S. Sebastiano, 81 
S. Stefano, 84 
S. Zaccarla, 77 
Vend ramini-Calergi 

Palace, 86 
Yenosa, 268 



Ventimlglta, 30 
Venusiiim, 364 
Vercelli, 12 
Vergato, 98 
Vema, 11 
Verola, 229 
Verolanuova, 42, 64 
Verona, 44 
Verres, 14 

Vesuvias, Mount, 248 
VctruUa, 142 
Yettica Maggiore, 255 
Yettica Minore, 255 
Yettuone, 14 
Yia Appia, 227 
Yiareggio (MUan), 86 
Yiareggio (Pisa), 29 
Yicenza, 48 
Yico, 258 



YIetri, 254 

Yietri di Potenza, 26S 
Yigevano, 12 
Yiggiano, 269 
Yilla Adriana, 221 
Yilla d'Este, 222 
Yillafranca, 65 
Yillafrati, 281, 288 
Yilla Mag«riore, 58 
YUIa Pallayicini, 27 
Yillarosa, 288 
Villa 8. Giovanni, 272 
Villasor, 292 
Villa Spinola, 27 
VillasteUone, 7 
Yillefranche, 19 
Yilleneuve, 16 
Vitecbo, 142 
Yittoria, 288 



Ylltorio, 88 
YU^lano, 262 
YoHiera,ll 
Yoiiigna,19 
VoftlHIo, 289 
Yolciv U9 
Yolta,ffi 
Yoltert*.U8 
Yoltri, ft 
Yoltumo Rtt^K, 231 



Waldensian 

Yaldesi) Countfjc, 4 
Wormaer Jocb, 38 



Zollino, 267 



ILLUSTKATIONS. 



To Face Page 
MAPS AND TOWN PLANS:— 

Florence, Town Plan of 120 

Italy, Map of Title 

Milan, Town Plan of 28 

Naples „ 284 

Palermo „ ^ 274 

Rome , 160 

Turin „ 3cl. 

Venice „ • 08 

Verona „ ** 

VIEWS:— 

Ancona, City of 46 

Catania, Sicily 46 

Clvita Vecchia 46 

Gaeta 46 

Genoa » 22 

Lago D'Orta ~ 22 

Lago Maggiore ,„>••., p v> ^ 



VIEWS: —Con/intf6d To Face Page 

Leghorn ».....••.. 46 

Naples 236 

Palermo 46 

ROMB :— 

Castle and Bridge of St. Angelo..... 212 

Colosseum SIS 

Pantheon, The SIS 

Ruins of the Temple of Saturn SIS 

Temple of Hercules „ SIS 

Salerno, Piazza di Solofra 46 

ScyUa 46 

Trieste SS6 

Turin: — 

Royal Palace .......••. SS 

Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele SS 

Venice S86 



y^ona.^, 



•t'ff 



*tt^*T I ****•**•*•*•*••• 



INTRODUCTION. 



I.— USEFUL INFOEMATION. 



*»* Bbad8HAW*8 Contiksntal Railway Guidk (published monthly, at 69, Fleet Street, London J 
gives the latest particulars respecting Passports, Hotels, Chaplains, Medical Men, Bankers, Popvda- 
tion. Railways, Steamers, Circular Tours, and other matters which are liable to change. It is 
so indispensable a Companion for Visitors to every part of the Continent, that in the course of the 
following remarks we shall take it for grranted that the reader has that useful work in hit hands, and 
fthall therefore make frequent reference to its contents in order to avoid repetition here. 



Passports. — See Introduction to Bradshato's 
Continental Quide^ for all the necessar}' directions 
on this head. Our agents, W. J. Adams & Sons, of 
£9, Fleet Street, London, will undertake to procure 
the Passport, with its visas. It is always useful, 
and is in fact a stranger's card of introduction to 
all the official world on the continent. 

Money. — Circular notes for £5 and £10, payable 
at the principal towns, may be obtained in London 
(see Introduction to Bradshato's Continental Guide). 
English coin should always be changed for the cur- 
rent coin of the country, at the money changer's 
(cambia moneta). For a visitor constantly moving 
about, the expenses may average 16s. to 20s. a 
day ; including travelling, living, and sight- seeing. 
Sovereigns can be exchanged for paper at 26 lire. 
In Italy, Napoleons pass, worth 20f ., or 16s. ; and 
the equivalent for a franc in Italy, is the ^' lira 
naova" (pi. lire), or "lira Italiana," worth 9id., 
now universally known as "lira" only, though 
sometimes called "franco,** and divided into 100 
**centesiml," or centimes. 

The currency of Italy is now uniform for the 
whole kingdom. Bank notes are issued for 1,000 
600, 260, 100, 60, 20, and 6 lire. Those for 
2 lire, 1 lira, and half a lira have been called in 
to be exchanged for silver, and are now rarely 
met with. Bronze pieces of 1, 2, 6, and 10 cente- 
simi (or centi) are coined; Ic. is worth about half 
a farthing; the 6c. piece is called a "soldo," and 
prices are not unfrequently quoted in soldi, just 
as In France they are often stated in sous. Silver 
pieces of 6 and 2 lire, and 1 lira, and 60c. and 50c. 
Gold pieces of 100, 80, 50. 20, 10, and 6 lire. (See 
the Money Table in BradthauTs Continental Guide.) 
Soiled or torn notes should be declined, and no 
ifotes 9|ioiild be laken oat of Ital^. 



In paper, £1 8terling=26-76 lira. One 8kilMng= 
1 lira and 80 centi. One penny=10 ccntl.- These 
vary a little with the rate of exchaBg«,- whrl«']i 
is rising. 

TABLE OF THE FOBXEB ITALIAN COINAQSV Wittf 
ITS VALUE IN ENGLISH MONET*. — 

Many of these terms are disused, and xkoUe of 
the coins are now current, but it is occasioiMl47 
useful to know their names and equivalents. - 

Italian, English, 

Bajocco ....worth id. 

10 bajocclii=l paul ».... „ 6id' to 6|d, 

Carlino (Naples)=:10 g^i'ani „ 4d. 

12 carlini=l piastra „ 4s. l|d. 

Crown (Roman), or scudo .. „ 4s. 8id. to 4s. 6d. 

Ducato (Naple8)=:10 carlini „ Ss. 4id. to ds* 6id. 

Florin (Austrian) = 100) «« ii«- 

soldi f " "'■*^"' 

10 florins (Austrian) „ 20S. 

Grano „ |d. 

10 grani=carlino „ 4d. 

Lira (Austrian) „ 8d. 

Oncia (gold)=3 ducati „ 10s. 4id. 

46to47pau1s „ SOs. 

Pistola (Naples) „ 13s. 8id.or Ts. 8d. 

Scudo (siiver),Roman crown „ 48. S^d, to 4s. 6d. 

Piastra or scudo (silver,) ^_ , .^ 

Naples)=12 cariini... j" " *"• **"' 

Sequin m Ss. 10|d. 

Soldo „ ^ *d. 

Zecohino or saquin (gold) .. „ 8s. lOfd. 

Zwanziger or Austrian llrji „ 8d. 



SMtlM.— Tin OMd^ImM for Utile d'hAto din- 

hik «f cbDcaIbt4^ ^reAd andbntt^r, find fruit, at 
era^i, ttgi, *«• A fair dinner St S liro, luclaiUnK 

■t ihDBl 1 lira par dK>-. Tho "portor" (iptsti 

M lenti. The walMHi culled •■''MierterB|"~il 

roloDdn." A cook shop 1b "trattorfa/' An Jnn 
"aJbergo" (plural -slberghl '■), -osterU," "luc 

BpHitel Editioa ot finuCiAow'i (Tnflimital Quids 

halt, tbo following Is thcsdvics of Mr, T. A, Trol 



I VelghtauidMMUnirM ("PwieMlrero"), 



, A> In UlBlUlrii, lar hecWltn. " Km. 
r, uied in Ihe OlBclsl Kuilwuy Onlde. 



ere = 1,000 !qa«re inMti, nearly. 

arlle at M (Taaean) = S-8 gsUoniL 

.iuibel = «e'*4Stilui. 

hllo^imma = 9 Ibi. B 0). V4 draclimi. 



any thing i chllome'lrl= 1.001 



<c1UeB,wheteaccoininoda1lL>nof different dojp^ca of . 
iaxury la provided at rAcognlMd and avowedly 

can give yoo l.i tjoiut of rooms and (are. TeU 

tag, e( conrgo, to tnclado in this 'best' [orelgu 

oi ipeclal denund. Say WHbiwt about prices. 
Bnt wben the hilt l> brought In, if It l> an cxtor- 
tlonato one, lutt cut il down to 1 fair charge. 

dsno good-homonrcdl)' and quietly, and with CTl- 
tlnat kDo^edi^c nf what tho charges ought to be. 



a roBoe. but ilniplj at a mailer of conne."- 
TBOLLOn's Latin Jaarstt. 



two dallv tntUs from London to Italy and tb] 

'™ Italy tho 'posi'a^ on letten it tc. ((d.) 1 
quarter oi.ln the towns, and !Oc.(2d.)to any pi 

(taopc Postage tu England, ite. the IS giamn 
(I ox.). 

Taltcmpb.— To the nnltad KtaeODm, Inlt 
diugal lira aodtObpor word. 



{To It 



mllei, multiply by 6 and 






le by 8). 

-,- -es, nearly. 

D9 JiSO'B square yards. 



'3'«lac 



.7=^.," 






bnshels, S peeks, O-on 
FathottcTl'sMiiii' 

■i cable Inebet. 

iy), (dd I^IItb). 

JmctrL = 33e rect. 

100 mctri (chllom.) S,M1 feel, or about J mlla. 
(EnBlHh) = 1,«M81S metres, or = IBlfS chllo- 

dcoI) = >,i^2» Englldl 
= t l-7ttaEngUsh mllB. 






feet, or =39 



Mile (SeapoUtai) =8.436 yards. 






„ (Pledmontesc)=3,69Tyaraa. 






., (Romiin) = 1,62H yards. 






„ (Tti«:adl = l,80eyard.. 






Moi;Blo = <-Mhsacr6. 






Ounce (aTolrduJ«H)=S8-MBTaimne. 
Pilmoin^'luehes,*" 










pSst <old) «Hes from 4i to 11 English 


mUw 










guartor (dry moasure)=3S*'I8 littrl. 






5»lotal (Tuiean}= IM T»«an Ib^ = 7 


4'B EnglW 








., (lroy)=a7S'Mgrainnie. 












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lltia 



INTBOBVOTION. 



xvil. 



Routes to Italy.— See itinerary ef Routes from 
England^ and lists of railways, steamera, diligences, 
Ac, in Bradshaw^s Continental Chdde. Throngh 
France, vid Dover to Calais (three timee a dayX or 
Folkestone to Boologpie. 

By rail, Qenoa may be reached through France 
or Switzerland in 2^ to 3 days (30 to 36 hours 
of actual travelling by short route), for about 
J&8, first class. Leghorn, in 3 to 3} days, for £8 
to £9. Florence, in 3 to 3^ days (or only 44 hours 
of actual travelling), for about £9. Rome, in 2^ to 
5 days, for i^O to £11, 43 to 48 hours travelling. 
Naples, 2^ to 5^ days, about £12; 60 hours travel-, 
ling by short route. 

The direct Land Routes are through France or 
Switzerland, and through the Tyrol. 

Sea Routes from London by the General Steam 
Navigation Company's boats to Genoa, Leghorn, 
Naples, <kc. P. ft O. boats to Malta, Naples, <fec. 
Norddeutscher Lloyd, Southampton to Genoa. 

Railway Routes are— rf<J Prance and Mont Cenis 
or Marseilles; vid Switzerland and th^ St. Gothard, 
or vid Germany and the Brenner. 

1. Through France. To Paris, Dijon, ChAlon- 
sur-Sadne, to Macon; hence, for Mont Cenis^ to 
Amb^rieu, Culoz, Chamb^ry, St. Michel, Modane, 
Cenis Tunnel, Turin; thence to Milan, Bologna, 
G«noa, &c. See Skeleton Route, page xxxvi. 
Or, Paris to Lyons and Marseilles, for Nice, <fcc., 
and the Riviera to Genoa. 

2. Through Switzerland^ To Calais, Basle (i/trecf 
irain^ avoiding Paris) , Lucerne, and the St. Gothard 
to Milan. Or Steamer to Antwerp, Rail to Brus- 
sels, Luxembourg, Strassburg, and Basle, thence 
08 above. — See Bradshaw's ContinerUal Guide. 

9. Through Oermany. To Brussels, Li^ge, Ver- 
▼iers, Aix-la-Chapelle, Cologne, Mayence, Aschaf- 
f enbnrg, Munich, Rosenheim, Kufstein, Innsbruck, 
Brenner Pa*$, Brixen, Botzen (or Bolzano), Ala, 
Verona; and thence to Venice, Milan, Padua, 
Bologna, Ac. At Venice the Peninsular and 
'Oriental Steamers may be taken, in connection 
with Ancona and Brindisi. Or, through Germany 
and Switzerland, ftid thenew/Sf^ Qothard Tunnel. 

Other Routes are as follow : — 

4. To Paris, Lyons, Marseilles; and by steamers 
to Genoa, Leghorn, Givita Vecchia; or Marseilles 
by rail, to Nice, Genoa, <kc. 

5. To Paris, Geneva, Martigny, Great Saint Ber- 
nard, Aosta, Turin. About 40 hours of actual 
travelling, to Martigny,. under Mont Blanc. 

6. To Paris, Geneva, the Simplon, Lake Mag- 
giore, Milan. 

7. Up the Rhine, Bftle, Lucerne, the St Gothard 
Pass or Tunnel, Lake Maggiore, Milan, or Lake 
Como and Milan. 

8. The Rhine, B&le, Lucerne, Coire, the Spltigon, 
Como, Milan. 

9. l^brongh the Tyrol, by tnnsbruok, the Enga- 
4^6» Ettel^ aM other Passes, to Loke Como, 
llSlilb, V«r(mA, Hod YtD^^. 



10. To Vienna, Laibach, Trieste, Venice, or An- 
cona, fto. About 86 hours of actual' travelling to 
Viouia. 

Through tickets can be obtained from the different 
railway companies. Circular Tour tickets may 
be got at Milan, and it will be found economical to 
take return tickets to the Italian frontier by those 
who are conversant with foreign travel.— See 
Bradshaw^s Continental Ouide. 

Italian Qyerland Route to EgsnDt—The 

extension of the Adriatic Coast Ihie (Rete Adriatica) 
to Brindisi (the ancient Brundisiumy made this 
place the most eligible starting-point for the East, 
instead of Marseilles. It is 700 to 800 miles 
nearer to Port Said, and within about 8 days' sea 
passage of the Suez Canal. A sum of 6 million lire 
was expended in the improvement of the port. 
The Journey may be performed at through fares by. 
the Mont Cenis, St. Gothard, or Brenner Route, 
as above, the three meeting at Bologna ; whence 
the main line runs on to Ancona, Pescara, Foggia, 
Bari, and Brindisi. Across France, the whole 
distance from Boulogne to Brindisi is about 
1,830 miles, as follows: — 

Miles 

Boulogne to Paris 157 

Paris, wdMont Cenis, to Turin, 
about 488 

Turin to Bologna and Ancona ... 336 

Ancona to Brindisi, about 345 

The P. & O. Express, leaving London on Friday 
afternoon, has attached to it a Sleeping Car from 
Calais for travellers holditig through tickets; due 
Sunday, at 4 p.m. The Mail steamer leaves Brin- 
disi at 10 p.m., and is due at Port Said on Thursday. 
Parties who do not like night travelling may break 
the journey here and there by starting a few days 
earlier, by ordinary train ; through fares, first- 
class, a little over £12. Refreshment buffets at 
most of the places mentioned above. 

For particulars of either the French or German 
Routes see Hand -Book of Infoi-mation compiled 
by the Agents for the South Italian Rail. Baggage 
on the Brenner Route is examined at Cologne, 
Kufstein, and Ala. 

Railways In Italy.— A railway is called " stra- 
da ferrata, ' and "ferrovia;" or "stradc ferrate," 
and "ferrovie," in the plural. See Bradshaw's 
Continental Guide for a complete list, with times, 
distances, fares, &c. Some are single lines. 
The oldest is Naples to Castellammare, opened 
30th November, 1839. 

At the end of 1889 there were 8,164 miles open, 
1,414 miles of steam, Ac, tram lines, and 22,076 
miles of telegraph. The lines are in the hands of 
the Government, and are divided into the Rete 
Mediterranea, Rete Adriatica, and Rete Sicula. 
Submarine cables arc laid from Otranto to Velona ; 
from Marsala to La Callc, in Africa; Speziato 
Corsica; Cagliari to Bone and Malta. 

In the Italian RaUway tables the ori<^«L ^* 
given in "lire" and » cent«toA.\\v:^\r. SS^^-'J,^^ 



XYiii, 



ZNTBODUOnOir. 



Vhe distancefl are indicated in " chilometH,** 
("cl»."). "Ant." (a.m.)j si^iflDs tawminj^; "t)oi!l»" 
(p.m.), afternoon { "anrr' arrivWj **diret." express; 
"misti," mixed; "tragetto in ore,** time in liours; 
"diligrenze," eoaoliesi Passe&gers sliotild look to 
uieir change at the stations. 

LnUSkge, '' Effetti di viaggiatore," may be 
Dbokea and forwarded by rail. There is no free 
Allowance of baggage in Italy. For example, 
from Modnne to Brindisi the charge is 8s. 5d. per 
20 lbs. There is, however, no charge for a small 
hand-bag, weighing not more than 44tb., maximum 
aiie, 20 X 10 X 12 inches. Revolvers are liable 
to be confiscated. It is not safe to put valuables 
Mnong ordinary luggage. 

Carriage Travellbig.— A ''Vetturino" is the 

driver of a "vettura," or two-horse carriage. It 
takes four in and one out, and will do 25 to 30 mUea 
a day, at a cost of about 30 to 40 franca, bflaHdea 
3 or 4 francs, '^ buona mana,*' to diivw. 

A *^Calesso " la a vdUcfs for two |»crMns; 
charge; ateirt t%i. a Mile. **Oa]easino,** ''caret- 
iiBa.*jni '^eorricolo** are names for a light vehicle. 

Tblt TrayeUlng costs about 9d. to lOd. a mile, 
including postilion and ostler. A post is from 7 to 
9 English miles. 



Chlidte— called "Ciceroni** (after Cieero% *«s«iv 
vitori de piazza,** "commissai^,** "faochini,** Sec 
For £ or 6 lire a day they will show all the siglita. 

Mr. Laing says: — "A valet de place, cioerone, or 
bear-leader, is a very useful personage, provided he 
is intelligent, and provided you never take him 
with you. If you do, vou are the party fairly efr> 
titled to be paid for the day's work, for yon have 
the fatigrue of lirtening to a rigmarole of inmM 
and phrases that would tire the patient ear <tf any 
of his marble statues. But consult him in tha 
morning before you sally forth, aa a kind of two- 
legged dictionary; get all the information yon can 
out of him about vdbat yon int«id to* see, and the 
way to it; plack him and leave him at home; and 
the gooee is worth his price.*'— Notes of a Travtiier 
( Tr me Ba r^t Idbrary). 

Chnrebes, which are generally the principal 
ol^tects of notice, are usually shut from 13 to S. 
**Chie8a" is a church; "Gustode," a person in 
charge; *Tinacoteca," a picture gallery; ^*Palazzo,** 
a palace, or family town house; "Piazza,** an 
open place; "Si afitta,*' means "to let." 

Turpentine or Condy's Fluid is good for the 
sting of a Wasp, or mosquito bite. Vinegar 
dropped on a hot poker is good for bad smells. 



II.— SKETCH OF ITALY. 



Italy, or "L'Italia,** between lat. 46i* N. in the 
Alps, to 3fii» in Sicily, and between long. 6^' E. at 
Mont Ccnis, to 18i' at Otranto, is a boot-shaped 
Peninsula, stretching about 500 miles into the 
Mediterranean Sea, from the basin of the Po, 
which forms its northern division, and lies between 
the Alps and Apennines, in a trough, 260 miles 
by 50. It is bordered on the west by France, 
or "La Francia," and the Maritime Alps. On the 
north by Switzerland, or "La Svizzera," and by 
the Swiss and I'yrolese Alps ; on the south and 
east by the Mediterranean Sea ("Mare Mediter- 
raneo") and the Adriatic Gulf ("Marc Adriatico"). 
Part of the Mediterranean, between the mainland 
and Sardinia, is the "Mare Tlrreno," or Tyrrhe- 
nian Sea; and that part at the mouth of the 
Adriatic is "Mare Jonio," or Ionian Sea. 



' Up to mid thigh I stand, nor ever stir. 




ny 

All stretch'd oompnct and Arm by viaorous needle, 
With hem at top, and seam straight down the middle." 
Giosti's n Stivate (the Boot), txuulated 
tn M(teminan'$ Mtiffoxtne. 
The territories of geographical Italy, as dis- 
tinguished from political Italy, are encroached 
upon by its neighbours. The province of Nice was 
transferred to France, 1860, followed by Savoy, In 
1866. Parts of the Swiss Cantons of Tcssin, or 
"Ticino," and the Grisons, or "Grigione," stretch 
down the Italian slope of the Alps to Lake 
Maggiore, Ac. Tyrol, or "Tirolo," belonging to 
Austria, comes down to Lake Garda. Corsica, 
which is geographically a part of I^ly, belongs to 
France; and MfUa, \o England. 



POLITICAL FEATURES. 

Before the revolutions of 1869-60, the divisions of 
the Peninsula were as follow, comprising twelve or 
thirteen States, and seven principal Governments. 
— Sabdikian States; Lombabdo-Vkkbto King- 
dom (from the Ticino eastward) ; Duchy of Pabma; 
Duchy of MoDEXA and Massa Cabbaba; Tus- 
CANT and Lucca; States of thb Chubch, includ- 
ing the Romagna, Marches, Ac; Kingdom at 
Naples and Siuilt; Principality of Monaco, 
and Republic of San Mabino, both independent— 
the former now surrounded by French territory. 

The Austro-Venetian territory, before its cession, 
1866, was, by the treaty of Villafranca, confined to 
the tract from the Mincio eastward to the Adriatic, 
including Mantua, Verona, Yicenza, and Padna. 
The four fortresses of Mantua, Peschiera, Verona, 
and Legnano, lying close together, constituted the 
famous Quadrilateral. 

The former Papal States, "Stati Pontificl,** were 
restricted to the Delegations of Rome, Comarca, 
Viterbo, Clvita Vccchla, Velletri, and Froslnone; 
a space about 100 miles by 40. These, with hii 
old possessions, which the Pope still pretends to 
claim, viz.:— Umbrfa, Romagrna, and the Marchea, 
made up a total population of three millions. 

The Kingdom of Italy, now consolidated into 
one united state, under the constitutional rule of 
Humbert I., son of Victor Emmanuel, is formed 
by the union of the Sardinian States, with Ix>m- 
bardy, Parma, Modena, and part of the Papal 
States, added in 1859; Tuscany, Umbria, the 
Marches, Naples, and Sicily, added in 1800; 
Venetia, added 1866 ; and the rest of the Papal 
States, added 1870; making abont 1U,000 square 



XNTBODUOTION. 



xiiC« 



mil68, with 36f millionfl of inhabitants, increased 
to 81 millions in 1890. It numbers 69 provinces, 
as below, each under a Prefect, and divided 
into Gircondarii, or Circuits; Mandimenti, or Dele- 
gations; and Gommuni, or Communes. The Italian 
colours are red, white, and green, with the white 
cross of Savoy. 

Colcmies. — Italy has for some time been de- 
sirous of obtaining colonial possessions, and is 
believed to entertain designs on Tripoli and Barca, 
in the event of the dismemberment of the Turkish 
empire. The practical annexation of Tunis by 
France in 1881-2 caused great excitement. In 
1885 the Italians, favoured by the English govern- 
ment, formally garrisoned Massowah, on the Red 
Sea, they having for some years held possession 
of Asab Bay, in the Danakil country, further to 
t«outh. The district has received the name of 
I firythrea,*' from the classical name of the 
Time jilaccs cannut as yet be said to 
have'HdiMi to tha^nMHil firosperity or resources. 

PopulatiOBr-ladaataK tha Wiads of Sar- 
dinia, SicUy, Elba, jfcc 



DEPARTMENTS. 

PlEMOKTB ,„... 8,297,157 

Containing the Provinces of— Alessan- 
dria; Conl; Novara; Torino. 

LiGURiA 947,800 

Containing the Provinces of— Genoa; 
Porto Maurizio. 

Sardeoka „... 735,588 

Containing the Provinces of— Cagliari; 
Sassari. 

LouBABDiA 4,018,978 

Containing the Provinces of — Bergamo; 
Brescia; Como; Cremona; Mantua; 
Milano; Pavia; Sondrio. 

Yenbzia „ 3,101,867 

Contabiing the Provinces of— Belluno; 
Padua; Rovigo; Trovlso; Udine ; Veue- 
zia; Verona; Yicenza. 

Emilia, ob Romaoka 2,352,497 

Containing the Provinces of— Bologna; 
Ferrara ; Forll ; Modena ; Parma ; Pia- 
conza; Ravenna; Reggio (in Emilia). 

Lb Mabchb 1,021,697 

Containing the Provinces of— Ancona; 
Ascoli Plceno; Macerata; Pesaro ed 
Urbino. 

Uhbbia 624,039 

Containing the Province of— Perugia. 

ToscAKiA 2,891,291 

Containing the Provinces of— Arezzo; 
Firenze; Grosseto; Leghorn; Lucca; 
^mt^ Ovnfmi Pisa; Slen^. 



DEPARTMEKTS— am(ifitffti 

Population, 
1890. 

ROHA (Latiitm) 982,581 

Abbuzzi 1,484,851 

Containing the Provinces of«-Chieti{ 
Teramo; Aquila; Campobasso. 

Campania 8,lil8,809 

Containing the Provinces of— Benevento; 
Napoli; Salerno; Avellino; Caserta. 

PuGLiA M 1,734,887 

Containing the Provinces of — Foggia; 
Bari; Lecce. 

Basilicata 556,809 

Containing the Province of— Potenza. 

Calabbia M 1,359,873 

Containing the Provinces of— Cosenza; 
Reggio (Calabria); Catanzaro. 

otmi JUL ■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■ 




Palermo; Blraeim; TrapanL 
Total popolatkMi, 1890 ^ 



..80,947,306 



Population in 1881 28,459,628 

Population in 1871 26,801,854 

Population in 1861 25,023,810 

The ratio of excess of births over deaths, though 
fluctuating much, is increasing, and the increase 
of the population in the great industrial centres 
is very marked. Marriages are rather decreasing. 

Besides the resident population there are about 
1,500,000 Italians abroad, mostly in America and 
Europe. From 160,000 to 210,000 (1888, 290,000) 
annually leave the country, not quite half for 
other European countries, the rest chiefly to South 
America. 

The number of persons of both sexes engaged in 
agriculture, including children over nine years 
(678,042), was. In 1881, 9,169,215 ; in day labour 
and industrial occupations, including mining, and 
inclusive of children (318,168), was 4,683,724; pri- 
soners and beggars amounted to 134,800. Those 
without business, trade, or declared occupation 
amounted to 9,442,976. Of these, 2,172,410 were 
between nine and fourteen years. There are no 
definite statistics as to religious belief. Fram 
questions addressed hi 1881 to ministers of Re- 
formed churches and rabbis, it would appear that 
there are only about 62,000 protestants (22,000 in 
the Vaudois valleys) and 38,000 Jews. A con- 
siderable proportion iu the large citien profeaa ^b» 
religious belief. 



umtosirdi^'Mt. 



Corsica, with its semi-Italian popalation of oyer 
a quarter of a million, has been annexed to France 
since 1770. 

Italy contains many large cities, the most popa- 
lons of which are as below: — 



Pop. 1891. 

Rome 423,000 

Naples 612,000 

Milan 407,000 

Turin 805,000 

l*jUermo 265,000 

Genua 206,000 

Florence 181,0U0 

Venice 167,000 

Boloj,Tia 187,000 

Messina 131,000 

Catunia 107,000 

Leghorn 108,000 



Pop. 1891 

Padna 80.000 

Fcrrara 7H,000 

Lucca 69,000 

Verona 69,000 

Brescia 68,000 

Alessandria 64,000 

Barl 63,000 

Modcna 68,000 

risa 64,000 

Pistoja 62,000 

Perugia 62,000 

Ancoua 48,000 



The above are the populations of the communes, 
which do not differ much from those of the towns. 
The latter will bo found under the respectiye 
headings. 

Inoome.—Income of the Kingdom of Italy, 
1891, about 64^ millions sterling; not equal to the 
Expenditure The former dcAcit was partly 
caused by bad tariffs and snm^^^ling at the so- 
called free ports. There is still an annual deficit, 
causing an increase of the national debt. The 
Public Debt amounts to 620 millions. The annual 
imports and exports between Italy and England 
amount to about 8 and 3i millions sterling. The 
maritime trade gives employment to 824,470 tons 
of shipping, nearly one-fourth being steam; num- 
ber of vessel:), 6,442 sailing, 279 steamers. 

Army. — Theregular army (1891) numbers about 
842.166 men; in addition there are 449,016 active 
militia, and 1,663,168 local, or territorial militia; 
nialcing a total of 2,844,339. '* Leva " meims the 
conscription. Large sums are devoted to the 
construction of new fortifications. 

Navy. — About 260 steamers and iron-clads, in- 
cluding 128 torpedo boats, with a total of 628 guns 
manned by 20,429 seamen anci marines. 

Education.-— There are twenty Universities, 
sonic of which arc reduced to colleges. The most 
important are those of Pisa, Turin, Pavia, and 
Naples. 

Other places of education are the Colleges, called 
Lyceums, the Gymnasiums or High Schools, and 
the "ScuoleTechnlche" (Technical Institutions). 

In 1888, there were 748 elementary, and 66,487 
national schools. In 1863 out of the whole number 
of scholars, some 800,000 in all, 300,000 were In 
I'iedmont alone, with its population of 3| milllims ; 
and only 126,000 in the Neapolitan and Sicilian 

f provinces, with their population of nearly 9 mil- 
ions. Before the revolution, Naples had hardly 
any schools, except some indifferent ones at the 
monasteries ; but the people are qaick and eager to 
learn. At Palermo there are nearly 100 schools, 
where there were only five before. 



Rome, to which the goyenunoit wts rflOMrrtd 
from Florence in June, 1871, Is now the capital 
of the consolidated kingdom of Italy. Here th* 
Houses of Parliament, consisting of a Senate and 
Chamber of Deputies, now assemble. TheChamMr 
of Deputies numbers about 608 members; the 
Senate, 270. 

There are 45 archbishops, and 168 bishope; or 
198 dioceses in all. The peculiar privileges of the 
clergy were abolished by statute in 1 861. 

One effect of the consolidation of the different 
governments, and the removal of the custom-hoatei, 
was a rise in the price of provisions, in conseqoGnoe 
of the Increased demand. Taxes are high all over 
the country. House rent, in Rome, Florenee, 
Milan, 'I'urin, Ac, increased, in some instances, as 
much as one-third. The income and property tazea 
are exceptionally heavy. At the same time new 
villas have sprung up near the towns; old honaee 
were repaired and cleaned; and the lig^tlnf, 
paving, sewerage, and other similar matters hi^e 
received great attention. 

A society for draining the southern provincea 
was formed under the Duke della GalUera. Bri- 
gandage has practically ceased, thanks to the 
vigorous efforts of the authorities. A great draw* 
back was the want of roads. In 1861, out of 1,^ 
communes in the kingdom of Naples, tteo-tMrdi 
were without roads. At Naples, the lazzaronl were 
made to work on the roil ; and the faechlnl, 09 
porters, here snd elsewhere, were put under better 
regulation. Provision was ma<le for the gradual 
suppression of all the monasteries and convents 
where the inmates are not employed in preaehing, 
education, or the care of the sick. 

NATURAL FEATURES OF ITALY. 

Mountains. — The Afp* take various names, as 
the Marithne, Cottian, Pennine, Graian, Rhetian, 
(Sarnie, Noric, and Julian Alps, ranging from i,000 
to 16,000 feet higli, in a circuit of 600 miles. 

Heights in round numbers of the chief Alpine 
passes and peaks:— 

Feet. 

Col di Tenda, near Nice 61,160 

Monte Vlso 12.640 

Mont Cenis 0,770 

Little St. Bernard 7,1«) 

Mont Blanc 1A,780 

Great St. Bernard 8,180 

Matterhom H70fi 

Pass (St. Theodule) ..^..10,900 

Monte Rosa lff,918 

Simplon 8,SM 

St. Oothard 6,948 

Bcnihardhi —» 6,770 

SplUgen 6,048 

Stelvio 0,980 

Ortler Spitz 11.818 

Many of the above only border on Italian 
territory, or are only Just within It, 



tSTkoDvcmo^t 



xsX* 



Dhe Apmnina^ or '* Monti App«iiniiU«** begin 
In the Maritime Alps, hug the coast of the Bivieiu, 
oear Q^enoa, and from thence rnn down the middle 
of the peninsula to the end of Calabria, a total 
length of 800 miles. Average height, 2,000 to 6,000 
feet. Highest points are Monte Camo^ or Como, 
or '^Gran Sasso/* near Aquila, 9,580 feet high; 
Monte Maiella, near Celano, 9,150 feet high; 
Monte Sibilia, near Tolentino. 7,000 feet ; Monte 
Cimone, near Pistoja, 6,975. At the back of 
Genoa, where they are only 2,560 feet high, they ' 
take the name of the Ligurian Apennines, and 
form the south border of the plain of Lombardy. 
Some of the Passes are — Pontremoli, 8,480 feet; 
Gollina, or Pracchia, 8,850 feet ; Pietra |f ^l^ on 
the old Florence Koad, 4,100 feet; and othi^Vs 
near Borgo Sepolcro, Fabrlano, Ac, of less 
imimrtance. The Apennines are generally lime- 
stone, covered with gn*AS8, but without trees, 
except chestnuts here and there. Mount Etna is 
10,875 feet high ; Vesuvius, 8,880 feet. 

Volcaxiaes.— Traces of volcanic matter are 
foun4 nearly all over Italy. In the north, near 
Vicenza, Padua, and the Euganean Hills; in Tus< 
cany, and the soil about Rome, especially in the 
Campagna; and round Naples, where Vesuvius 
has for ages been in a state of activity. It threw 
out a new crater in 1865. Etna, in Sicily, threw 
out some about the same time; and Stromboli, 
which is always smoking, was also affected. The 
peak of Ischia is an extinct volcano. In July, 1831, 
a submarine volcano, called Graham's ShoaJ, Isle 
Julia, Ac., appeared above the sea, off Sicily, and 
disappeared the same year. Sir Walter Scott 
landed on it. 

Blyors. — ^The principal rivers of Italy are the 
Po, Amo, and the Tiber (Tevere). The Po rises in 
the Alps and Apennines, and runs to the Adriatic, 
by a course of about 407 miles. Its afiSuents are 
. the Tanaro (fed by the Stura and Bormida), Treb- 
bia, Taro, Parma, Secchia, and Reno, on the right 
or south bank ; the Clusone, Doria-Riparia, Doria- 
Baltea, Sesia, Ticino (from Lago Maggiore, &c.), 
Olona, Lambro, Adda (from the Valtellina), Oglio 
(from L. Iseo), and Mincio (from L. Garda), on the 
north bank. Near the Po are the Adige, Bacchig- 
lione, Brenta, Piave, Tagliamento, Ac, which rise 
in the Alps and run into or near to the lagoons of 
Venice. 

All the other rivers have their source in the 
Apennines, and are for the most part mountain 
torrents. The Arno runs by Florence and Pisa to 
Leghorn. The Tiber, about 345 miles long, runs 
by Perugia, Orte, and Rome. The Secchia runs 

Skst Lucca. The Garigliano and Voltumo run 
to the Gulf of GaSta ; and some smaller streams, 
of little note, into the (iulf s of Salerno and Taranto. 
On the Adriatic side are the Ofanto, Pescara, 
Trento, Chienti,Metauro, Rubicon^ and many others, 
from 30 to 5Q mil^ Icmg, which make almost a 
atnAgHt Qonrse frran the slope of the Apennines 
dofwa to the ME. 
ftglffpd J^RjUral fiilrfHU Ctldiero; Yia- 



di^rl, He At ISirln*. Acqui; Abano mud l)aths; 
Porretta, Lucoa, vol terra, Solfatara, Ischia, Ac. 

IdlandB.'-The two largest islands are Sardinia 
and Sicily. 

Elba, between the Tuscan Coast and Corsica, 
with its neighbours, Capraja, Gtorgona, Pianosa, 
Monte Cristo, Giglio, Gianatri. Another Capraja, 
or Caprera, between Corsica and Sardinia, was the 
residence of Garibaldi till his death, 1883. 

Off the Gulf of GaSta— Ponza, Palmarola, Zan- 
one, Ventolene, Ac 

In the Bay of Naples — Ischia, Procida, Capri. 

Lipari Islands— Lipari, Stromboli, Volcano, Fili- 
curi, Alicuri, Saline, Ac. 

Ustica is off Palermo. 

Egati Islands— Off Marsala, including Levanzo, 
Maritimo, Favignano. 

Pantellaria, between Sicily and Africa. 

The Tremiti Islands, with Pianosa, Pelegosa, Ac, 
off the Gargano Promontory, are the only islands 
of any consequence in the Adriatic. 

Corsica is annexed to France, and Malta to 
England. 

Coast Line. — Estimated (exclusive of minor 
islands) at 3,350 miles, one-fourth belonging 
to the islands. In this respect Italy has an 
advantage over France or Spain, and its position 
qualifies it to become a first-rate maritime 
power, and to command the Mediterranean. The 
scenery of the Biviera^ or shore of the Gulf of 
Genoa, of the Bay of Naples, and the Straits of 
Messina, is proverbial for beauty. 

Principal Ports.— -Ixain, Genoa, Spezia (Royal 
Dockyard), Leghorn, Civita Vecchia, Naples, 
Palermo, Messina, Ancona, and Venice. 

Lakes. — Lago—Laghi — Under the Alps are Lago 
Maggiore, Orta, Varese, Lugano, Como, Lecco, Iseo, 
and (iarda, all remarkable for the rich character 
of the surroimding scenery. In Central Italy— 
Trasimeno, Bolsena, and Bracciano, shallow apd 
uninteresting, except for their historical associa- 
tions. In the Apennines — Celano or Fusino, now 
drained. On the east side— Lesina and Varano. 

Plains. — The Great Plain of Lombardy, 
the " pleasant garden of fair Italy," in the north ; 
the Campagna, near Rome, remarkable for its 
h^ds of buffaloes, Ac. ; and Campania, towards 
Naples, both on the west coast; with the plain of 
Foggia, on the east side, on which vast flocks of 
sheep are pastured. In summer they are driven 
up the Apennines. 

Winds.— The eight principal winds arc:— 

N. — ^Tramontana {''*■ across the mountains "). 

N.E. — Greco. 

E.— Levante("Sun Rising"). 

S.E. — Sirocco, the hot wind. Of any thing 
dull, the Italians say " Era scritto in tempo dell 
sirocco." (It was written in sirocco weather). 

S.— Mezzogiomo ("Midday"). 

S. W.— Libeccio (" Libyan,'^ or African). 

W.— Ponente ("Sun Setting'*). 

N.W.— Maestro (the "Master;" oaUed "Ittjbr 
tril,'* at Harseinei end ilM^i^i>9tt^« 



B«ra0D«CTl6tt. 



Prodoou.— Aiiione 






bMTii: 


ullve oil, aioot Florei 


C » 


pie., tc.: 




■nd lemoni, In III 






S[ 


'tsr::,'". 


'inB 


rdJnfi 


e'J-Aru^ 




-From Brienio I 


To, 




Otec. .t 


r^noo 






iiln q 


mmtlty li 


nlsed. 












The relne ol c 








«*,1«, 


lOO; tho jleld In r 






6,0W» lb.. 


The Kn 


mbcr eniDloyed In 


rlnd 






l,SS»i vomen. Bi.lO; cbi 








'TheV 


neofcponed.ilk 






14.(»(l,00«», 


Irfwhlc 


IhrM-ouerter. of 








The Mnnyw lystem li 




ommon in Itali; 




h-prodoeeoflhe 


•™ 


gdlYld 


MeqajUly 



HumdoturoB.— siikfl, ir 













per, from Pal.ni., nc*rNo 


'rom Blu 


o^nca? 




In Vil 






lognei 


nd from Ollomont 




' Snip 




fromlr 


panl nnd Balorna 




m, ChLy 




ne.r Qe 

InMu. 


OB. Btetnery m 


naefram 


FonunK 


Z] 






dlead, fr. 
BerBMdo: 


IS 


icr 


*nd ietuL (rom Valsmalna 


Mloerel 






from U 










Altei.lni 






'AS. 




£"Je»l 
















ce. 


from No 


er^Tlmoln. 4e, 


Plp^ rel.il 


>. >lmu 




01I.M, 


fte., from Tr^L 


iDdKD 






Arena. 






rt. Pic 





from BreKli. Cutlery.froni CampobuB. Cgnl 
necklace^ broachei, Ac., [rou Naple.; (ud n4 
coral irutk from Traplnl. Blelly. UoecU Poth- 



Smaltg IroTn tbe moulc isuintKiMrj, it Ik* 
Inlaid tahlei and pavementi. In ImlUtlon iiiiirlil*^ 

clQO, Flnnlnl (near CattllMl), Coaenu, TtbbL 
Sleni. Cumncchlo. ChlaiarU Sondiio, IintJa. Mar- 
Hla (Sicily), DeDevciiio, Omano. iMla, Acqal, 
BegKlo (1° llie Emtlle), CeluH, Me.iina. Lucca, 
Naplea, Genoa, Salerno, Parma, Ferrara. OrTl«tt, 
Rlell, and other piece.. Annual nnenlitr of TrU* 
■bout S»0,OM,noO nallont. The Hutcal wlna d 
SardinialilmportedlDtheKorlhof Enropg. Aboat 



tlpinn or Utvogltee, Tbrongbont the wbdl 

-here wine 1. m abnnilant Ibat all maj^k 11, 

seqnetill; neglected. Gocd wliie demand. lUII, 

llan. are now dlrectlnK their attention to IhK 
wnrco of wealth. "—T. Q, BHawa Wbu, Ma Vlat, 



CUnute.— Em 



MtorH)ll, *c., from Cagllari. 



aUk, f rom Lueca. Orgnnilne andTelvet, madt __ _ ^ 

Turin. Oatmn and .Ilk rlbboni. at Portlcl, near | to the palm tree .nd plant, indlpnon. to warn 
So'ra.%ODnMr^m'p!IniiaanVTer.™."'QloT»s «'!?.".?'.«". In the phy.lcal and mot 
from Haplei. Chair., from ChhtvarL Bice, 



inv^ii^ /a im/ul/ao at Flio'SBllae m 



i; inilliBllkWlilMUll 



tNTfiODUCTIOK. 



xziii. 



ratio to the prevalltng humidity, heat, and siroccal 
Tcntilation." When, in addition to these circmn- 
■tance^ we take into consideration **the extent of 
submerged or irrigated land; the beds of nomerons 
rivers occasionally overflowing, at other times 
more or less dry; the lalces, the lagunes, Ac; 
there will be no grounds for surprise at the 
quantity of rain which annually falls, or at the 
partially existing malaria in the snumier and 
autumnal seasons/* 

Dr. Lee adds, **The transition from spring to 
summer is frequently abrupt in Italy. In May 
the sun acquires considerable power. The gre&t 
heats prevail from the middle of June to the middle 
of September. At this period it rains only oc- 
casionally, and during the prevalence of storms. 
The ground is usually parched, and the roads laid 
thiclc with dust. The towns in the interior, as 
Milan,. Florence, <fec, are generally hotter than 
those on the sea-coast, where the heat is somewhat 
tempered by the sea breexe." This daily sea 
breeze blows from noon to sunset, and its influence 
is felt for miles up the valleys. 

**If yon wish to keep your health In Italy,'* says 
the author of Roba eU Roma^ ** follow the example 
of the Italians. Eat a third less than you are 
accustomed to at home. Do not drink habitually 
of brandy, porter, ale, or even Marsala, but confine 
yourself to the lighter wines of the country, or of 
France. Do not walk much in the sun; only 
Englishmen and dogs do that, as the proverb goes; 
and especially take heed not to expose yourself 
when warm to any sudden change of temperature. 
If you have heated yourself with walking in the sun, 
be carefal not to go out at once, and especially 
towards nightfall, into the lower and shaded streets 
which have b^^un to gather the damps, and are 
k^ cool by the high thick walls of the houses.** 
Buy a skull cap to put on year head when you enter 
the churches and cold galleries. With this precau- 
tion, and by taking care to cool yourself before 
entering such buildings, or on coming into a 
bouse, and generally not to expose yourself to sud- 
den olumges, '^you may live for twenty years in 
the ooontry without a fever. Shut your windows 
when you go to bed. The niglit air is invariably 
damp and cold, contrasting greatly with the 
wannth of the day ; and it is then that miasma 
drifts in upon the sleeper. Do not indulge in ices 
and cold drinks.** 

Laagaage.— The '* Italian** language is the 
Toacan, as written and spoken by its educated 
population, especially at Florence and Rome, and 
AS shaped and polished by the great writers of 
the foartemth century, or TreeentUH (or " three- 
eentory men,** as the Italians say), viz.. Dante, 
Petrarch, Boccaccio, Sacchetti, Villani ; succeeded 
by Lorenzo de' Medici, Pulci, Bojardo, in the 
flfteenth century, or Italian quattrocentitti; and by 
Majtblarelll, Guieclardini, Ariosto, Bembo, Vasari, 
B. CeUini, Ouarini, Tasso, Bandello, called (Hngue- 
emUUi, or sixteenth eentory writers.* The prin- 



cipal dialects are the Milanese, Venetian, Padnan 
or Lombard, Mantuan, Piedmontese, Genoese, 
Bolognese, Neapolitan, CaUbriau, SicUian, and 
Sardinian (or Island dialect). A few useful words 
and phrases are given in the Yocabularv at the 
end of the Special Edition of Bradshcue^t ContU 
nental Guide, 

ANCIENT DIVISIONS OF ITALY. 

The North of Italy, above the River Macra (now 
Magra), near Spezia and the Rubicon, near Rimini 
(both about latitude 44*), was called G<Mia Citerior 
or Gallia Citalpina. The remainder of the Penin- 
sula, to the south, or Italia proper, was styled Auso- 
nia, Hesperia, <fec., by the poets. 

Cisalpine Oaul was divided into Cispadana and 
Transpadana, by the Padus (Po), or Erldanus ; and 
more particularly as follows: — 1. Ligubia — con- 
taining Genoa and Nice. 2. Taurina— About Turin, 
Aosta, Ac. 8. Insubkks — ^Milan; Pavia, where 
Charles V. defeated Francis I. 4. Cbnoxanxi — 
Brescia, Cremona, and Mantua, near the birth- 
place of VirglL 6. EnaANKi— Verona, the birth- 
place of Catullus. 6. Vbwkti — ^Padua, where Livy 
was bom ; AquUeia, Friuli. Venice (named after 
this province) had no real existence till the des- 
truction of Aquileia, a.d. 452. 7. Lurooxsa — 
Ravenna, where the emperor kept his court, and 
also Theodoric, the Goth, after defeating Odoacer. 
8. Boil— Bologna, Modena, Parma, Piacenza. 

The ancient divisions of Jtalp proper were: — 9. 
Etruria, between the Magra and Tiber, from 
which Napoleon borrowed his name of the short- 
lived kingdom of Etruria. It contained Lucca, 
Pisa, Florence, Leghorn, Volterra, Siena, Arezzo; 
Perugia, near Lake Thrasymene, where Hannibal 
defeated the Romans for the third time ; CttuiuM, 
the city of Porsena ; Targuinii, of the Tarqulns, 
Veii, and other Etrascan cities ; and Clvlta Vecchia. 

10. Umbru — Rimini; Urbino, the birthplace of 
Raphael; Spoleto; Terni, the birthplace of the 
Emperor Tacitus, and Tacitus, the historian ; Nami. 

11. PiCBNUM — Ancona, Loreto, Ascoli ; Sulmo, the 
birthplace of Ovid; Celano, in the country of the 
Marsi ; Reata, in the country of the Sabines, in 
which Vespasian was bom ; Amitemum^ the birth- 
place of Sallust; and Horace's Villa, near Tivoli. 

12. Latiuh— Rome, on the Tiber, in the Cam- 

pagna; Tivoli; Frascati, or Tiuetilum; Albano, 

Ostia. 18. Caufania — Capua, on the Voltumo; 

Venafro, Cumae, Baife^ Puteoli, Naples; Pompeii, 

under Vesuvius ; Salerno, and the Islands of Ischia, 

Procida, and Capri. 14. Saxnium, in the Apennines 

— Benevento, and the Caudine Forks. 15. Apulta 

— Foggia, Manfredonia; Canosa, near CannXy the 

scene of Hannibars fourth g^reat victory; Venosa, 

the birthplace of Horace ; and Bari, captured by 

Robert Guiscard, 1087. 16. Calabria C5».s2wfe\kw^ 

of the boot, on the AdtV«Wa %\^fc\ \sNiN. ^^'V?^^ 
wasafterwardftttaxl%UTT*aL^»V\v^^^«fe^«sv^^^»^^^^^ 



^ . . cs HtMswBtMT.ttoiat^BotlpailliWiot 



Side)— BrVndVaV, or Br«na%MA«»«v,\\i«^ ^^;^SiV • 
Tarento, near \Jie \>Vrt»iS^w» ol ^ia«^ 



^aoA-v 



IT. LucAVii (i»w Bo^1lcat«>— JZifru 
th«clRur the Iniartuiu Hybullei; J'/tilim, und 
'It! rulnii. IB. llBUTIi (uuw CuliiliHB Cltn>— 
riiFmiii; SiilU or Boylla, opncMiio Charybdli; 
Rciielo. nn<t CotmnD. Thg lait Ihrso proilncei, 
with their flanrlibLnE Oroek colonlu, cumtliuled 
Kagnm Grscla. 




-Oin*ilo, 

i(aifN»-«. BooMDO, FiinuttUdo. 



jlldlapiaretobBii 

j:im,GlrgenU,Triip»nL OIBam 

thB auUwt Ifl« of th» r(p__ 

bat npecUUf of U» time of U< &d- 



IKIBODVCIIOH. 



mpell are rciiMlni ol pnbl 



K'.,, ,„ . 


Ull 




















fsaj»""« 


itsi 




1434 

im 




















iMXAnircLo Allori) i6« 












ThJui^a: 


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J^/^!b::::::::: 


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jHrio(M.AmcriBM) 


lt«> 






1, fl. (CaTtliM d'Arpiwo) 1 MO 












K^w:..:™:;;:;::::;;;:: 


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4ng<slloa'{0-^Ef Uco d 



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.. lite i4gsr 



G0UOI1.B. 
OttntM (I 
Giiidi,D. ( 



lADghl, O. (• 



Hljana, B. dl (I) 
M.jiino.a.d.<a| 
Mntdlnl, P. (i) 



Birth. Ututl). 

J(««rto(TMmM«adldl). J*W 1^ 

m"S, Vh;-.;^uS-(-::;:)"::::::::: jwi i»«« 

■Oobad IngBto {piliitor, ntuliJiur, 

EndanUieM) J|JJ »™j 

4lelo,a.- "■• .'Si 

jlcntomllO) ..-^v-..; ,™ i2mi 

«s:«ii^°"'^°' :"i23 iSS?' 

*;Jli B:ibB3vri^o»"ti isw 1^, 

pr^;2:il?(S'«i'?'«<;«.ii : 1^ '«« 

^iXoi) "'8 !**<* 

Pilnia fllovMw J*** 'SS 

JP«lmii VMchlo JJ™ J™ 

i'a™(?l«ii*»{F.M>"™uolnt J™ !!f? 

pBueri, Q. B J"" \f' 

/VMri!7IIOIKl(D0nl. CWBtll JBBU !B«8 

PrtlogtlDl. P-^CO^^-. JJ« j™ 

pIJfiiBit,' c: (a) inj I*^ 

ftrttirtBo le.VmnOKl). - ......... 1*« J"* 

TBniiil,B.{p«lo»r»ndiiri:Lil:.tli 1*80 IMB 

Wntelll, B. Co). "™ J™ 

PlntnrlMihlo, B. j™ '?!" 

Plombo, Ft* BelHM. del '«* J"' 

Pl«,A.aa{.) 1"» i|« 

Piw.ir.a*{«S- ■■ ,;i, !S5 

PomBrando J™ JfJS 

AnlnOM [d,A.UBlnlo1 IM* 1"0 

ft«fc B. dilln C«H •> ,K, ISJI 

gjjri«ia.I>BiibM) ;;;;;;;;:::;:::; ™ {^ 

S^rT_V^' 1«4J 1708 

ggj-^*"' " laiB 'IMfl 

BaiundU,a. 





Qlll, I. (d« corner) J" 


ffiS^ «,.«■•■.■,'' : =!'» 




oA.dl(ft.t.to) 1«^ 


£z^s:: ','"••"<-••' ■■ !S 




t> ;■■:::■:::::- ii« 



tP. &Co).. 



flcoKnglor'B"! 
tmulitvd Ity E 
Pilntan," by Fo 
lug," */ Eoatoo 



ke Tnutl'i "Una of Ik* 
LaDzl't "Hlitiuyot Falnk- 
veACtTiliiuoUl'l^'KMoV 



afPaliiUiigliitlalri" Mlwrarguhar'B " > Ul nql 



•rn'mx^ovoTLOv. 



xxriL 



of Painters;" Miss Thompson's "Hand-Book to 
the PnbHQ Picture Galleries of Europe ; " Fer- 
gU88on*8 "Illustrated Hand-Book of Architecture," 
2 Tolnmes; Street* s "Brick and Marble in the 
Middle Ages" (North Italy). 

CHRONOLOGICAL LIST OP IMPORTANT 
EVENTS IN ITALY, ROMAN EMPERORS, 
POPES, SOVEREIGNS OF STATES, DOGES, 
ARTISTS, Ac. 

N.B.— Many of the earlier dates of Roman events, 
Bishops or Popes, are very doubtful. The Popes 
marked thus * are Romans or Italians by birth. 

B.C. 

753 Rome founded by Romnlus, first King. Fes- 
tival kept 2l8t April. The "2e3fith year" of 
the city, A.U.C, was duly celebrated 21st 
AprU,1882. 
716 Numa Pompilius : • 

^73 TuUus Hostilius 
640 Ancus Mar|;ius 
616 Tarquinius Prisons 
578 Servius Tullius 

634 Tarquinius* Superbus, last King of Rome 
510-09 Espulsjton of the Kings, Republic founded, 
"^ and Consuls instituted 

KOI Dictator appointed 
494 Tribunes instituted 
491 Coriolamis exiled 
469 Volscian "^ar 

461 Decemvirs tiistituted, Twelve Tablea 
448 Censors created 
896 Veil taken by Oamillus 
89*) Rome taken 6y the Gauls 
840 Latin War . 

'998-90 Third War with the Samnit^s 
S64-41 Roman Supremacy in Italy; first Punic War 
Hannibal, ^47-18af 
Cato, 234-i89 
281 Conquest of Sardjinia and. Corsica 

Scipio, 219-185 
216 Battle of Canon 
Terence, 195-169 
146 Destruction of Carthage 

Cicero; 10^8 
111-06 Jugurthlne War 
Cassar, 100-44 
Lncretins, 95-55 
Sallust, 86-84 
86 Death of C. Marini 
82 SvUa, DicUtbr 

74-1^ Second War with Mithildtites. Cicero at 
Rome 
Virgil, 70-19 
65-2 Catiline's conspiracies 

Horace, 65-8 
68 Cicero, Consul 
60 First Trinrnvirate between Cssar, ^on^ey, 

^ ]Pimr 0@l, M tim9 



B.C. 

49 CflBsar, Dictator 

48 Battle of Pharsalla. Death of Pompey 
44 CsBsar assassinated 

43 Second Triumvirate; Lepidus, M. Ant(my, and 
Octavian (Augrustus) 

— Death of Cicero 
Ovid, 43 B.C. to jL.D. 18 

42 Battle of Philippi; Death of Brutus 

81 Battle of Actium 

30 Death of Antony 

27 Augustus, first Roman Emperor 

A.D. 

Seneca, 2-65. 
14 Emperor Tiberiuf 

Martial, 29-104 
33 The Gracifixion 
37 Emperor Caligula 

Lucan, 37-66 

41 Emperor Claudius 

42 "St. Peter," reputed Bishop of Rome 
64 Emperor Nero 

Tacitus, 61-110 
65-66 St. Linus, Bishop ot Rome 
69 Emperors Galba, Otho, Vitelllus, and Vespa- 
sian 

Silius Italicus, about this time 

78 St. Anacletus, Bishop of Rome 

79 Emperor Titus. Pompeii overwhelmed— Death 

of Plhiy the Elder 

81 Emperor Domitian 
Plutarch, 86-120 

91 St.- Clement,* Bishop of Rome (sometimes 
placed before Linus) 

96 Emperor Nerva 

98 Emperor Trajan 

Pliny the Younger. Die4 about A.D. 110 
100 St. Evaristus, Bi^op of Rome 
109 St. Alexander,* Bishop of Rome 
117 Emperor Hadrian 

Juvenal died jld. 128 
119 Sixtus L,* Bishop of Rome 
127 St. Telesphorus, Bishop of Rome 
138 Emperor Antoninus Plus 
138 Si Hyginas, Bishop of Rome 
142 St. Pins L, Bishop of Rome 
156 St. Anicetus, BisJtiop of Rome 
161 Emperor Marcus Aurelius 
161 Emperor Lucius Verus 
168 St. Soter, Bishop of Rome 
177 St. Eleutherus, Bishop of Rome 
180 Emperor Conunodus 
185 or 198 St. Victor, Bishop of Romo 
198 Emperor Pertinax 

— Emperor Didius Sevems 
193 Emperor Septimius Severus 

197 or 202 St. Zephyrinus,* Bishop of Rome 
211 Emperor Caracalla 

217 Emperor Macrinns 

217-219 St. CaIiz&Qi3»l> 'fi.Vibiars^ ^ -fttwaA 

218 EmpeTOTU«\Vois«teAx»v'«^'^'^*f*'^^sr«ak 
222 Bmveroi loixt^^aA, «i^«*iS^S2f^^ 






imnovwmow. 



SJi at. Antberai, Blthop of Brnne 

236 3t. Fabian.* BUtiopol Rome 

ass Emperon Gordlan, 1. rmd IL 

118 Emponir FtUip 

Sl9 Kniporor Dociui 

HI EraiKror Qalloi 

SSI Bt. Comelliis,* BliltDp ol BauM 

ass NovBtLan, Anllpope 

as3 8CLui:lu8.*Blibi>por Roma 

3K3 St. Sicplion I.,' Blibop Of Roma 

in SL mam U., mthof of Bom* 

361 ErapHoraatlleniu 

Mi Emperar ClanillBi II. 

364 or -m St. Folli L.> Blsbopof Bom* 

3T0 EmiKror UomltlDt Anrellmui 

174 or 37S 81. BatJM;UanD^BlIl»pof Book 

371 Emperor U. ClandlDi TacKui 

176 Emperor Probu 

m Emperor Canii 

38} St. Calui, Blihopal Rom* 

181 Emperori DIocletltin and Hiximliiluiai 

3116 St, MarcelllUDs.- Blihop of Booie 

Si>4 St. Marcetlni,* Bishop of Rome 

8M Emperor CoDftuitiDettw Great, flntClirigttui 

SID St. EOBeblng, Bishop of Roiaa 

(11 Conitantine defeat] HHenlli)> nt Rome 

SIS At Mlliui, lie proclainii the equality of Cbtlil- 

laiilty with other rellBloni 
S14 St. Sytvaiiei,* Blihop or Roma 
ISA St Mark I,,* Blebopof Rome 
S37 St. Jullni I.,* Blibop of Re — 
SIT EmperoraConiUntUiell.: 
Ml Sl.Lll«rtii»I.,*Bl>hijpo( -^ 
SStI Tc}\i II.,* Antipope 
Kl Emperor Jallui, the Apoitate 



ma>iii I.. Blihop of Rome 
or TheodMin. the Gresl 



US (Eait) E 






T., Ulihop of Boma 
Blflhop of Roma 



Ml St. Inn 
«08 (Ea.l) 

417 at. ZiMlmae. tliibop of Ro 
4IB St. Boniface I,,' Bllliop of 
«0 Eulallne, AnlJpiT? ^ , 
431 HI. Coleiline I , Bliihop o( 



Lrtsilll..* BlUlop of Roma 
tiImh todr pmelmlaied 



iO (Eait) Emparon Falcit 



.S {Weit 



ir Mailmoa 



(Ran) Emperar Leo r. 
St. Hilary, Blsbop of Roma 
{West) Kmperor Llblut SeTsnu 
St. Simpllclui, Glibop tA Rome 

West) Empsron Anitiemloa and Fncopiiu 

Wait) Emperor Olybliu 
[WbM) Emperor Glycorln* 

Emperor Romnlni AapiAulna (it 
•ui,;d In ridicule), Ibe lut Emperorol 11a 
Weat; dethroned by Odoacer, 476 
471 Odoacer. Kloe ot Ilic Enill ("ICuly"), ■« 

481 Clevli tbe Great, King of Franc* 
483 at, Felii III.,* Bishop of Borne 

491 St. Gela.lni, Bl.bop"('Roma' 

«8 Thoodorlothe Oatrogolh, King of "Italy," at 

490 at, Ana<taBlD>II..>Blahopof Rom* 
4es SI. Symmacbna. Ulihop of Rome 

£14 Bt. Hormladaa, Bllliwof Roma 

515 (Eait) Emperor Joitia I. 

516 St. Felix' I.. Biabopof Rome 
636 AthalaMc. Kbigi^i "Italy." 

fi!7 (Eait) Emperor JiMivlan, Author of the 

"Dlgcat." 
690 BonHaMlJ.,"Bli!iopof Rome 
SSO Dlousuroi. Antipope 



a Bt. Silvarlui. Bishop of Rome 

g Vltlget, King of "Italy" 

7-9 Betliirini recoTarg Italy from the Gotbi 



MB lGul)Gii4mn\Q»AiuII. 



tKTBODtJOTIOK. 



X^ix. 



A.l>. 

582 (East) Emperor Mauritius 

584 Autharis, Duke Of the Lombards 

58 1 Smaragdus, Exarch of Ravenna 

590 St. Gregory I.* (the Great), Bishop of Home 

590 Roman ns^xarch of Ravenna 

591 Agiluph, Duke of the Lombards 
597 Callinicas, Exarch of Ravenna 
602 (East) Emperor Phocas 

602 Smaragdus, Exarch of Ravenna (a second time) 

604 Sabinianus. Bishop of Rome 

606 Boniface III.,* Pope. About this time the 

Papal power begins to rise. 
608 Boniface IV., Pope 
610 (East) Emperor HeracHus 
Cll Johannes Lemigius, Exarch of Ravenna 
615 Deodatus,* or Adeodatus I., Pope 

615 Adawald, King of Lombards 

616 Eleutherius, Exarch of Ravenna 

618 Boniface V., Pope 

619 Isaac, Exarch of Ravenna 
625 Honorias I., Pope 

625 Ariwald, King of Lombards 
628 Dagobert the Great, King of France 
636 Rotharis, Duke of Brescia, or King of the Lom- 
bards 

638 Plato, Exarch of Bayenna 

639 Severinus,* Pope 

640 John IV., Pope 

641 Theodore I., Pope 

648 Theodoras I., Exarch of Ravenna 
619 St. Martin I., Pope 

649 Olsrmpius, Exarch of Ravenna 
652 Rodvald, King of the Lombards 

652 Theodoras, Exarch of Ravenna (a second time) 

653 Aribert I., King of the Lombards 

654 Eugenius I.,* Pope 
657 Yitalian, Pope 

661 Pertharitus, King of the Lombards 

662 Grimsald, King of the Lombards 
666 Gregory. Exarch of Ravenna 

670 Adeodatus II.,* Pope 

671 Pertharitus, King of the Lombards (a second 

time) 
675 Dommus (or Donus) I.,* Pope 
678 Agathon, Pope 
678 Theodore II., Exarch of Ravenna 
682 St. Leo II., Pope 
68 ( Benedict II.,* Pope 
685 John Y., Pope 
685 Peter, Antipope 

685 Theodore, Antipope 

636 Cunibertf King of the Lombards 

686 Paschal, Antipope 

686 Conon, Pope 

687 Sergius I., Pope 

687 Johannes Platon, Exarch of Ravenna 
697 Republic of Venice founded; Paolo Luclo 
Anafesto, first Doge 

700 Laitpert, King of the Lombards 

701 Bagfanbert, King of the Lombards 
701 Aribert XL, King of the Lombards 
701 John TLf Pope 

703 Tbeophilactiis, Exareb o/MnvennA 



A.D. 

705 John VII., Pope 
70:j Sisinins, Pope 
708 Constantinns, Pope 

710 Johannes Rizocojiius, Exarch of Ravenna 

711 Eutychius, Exarch of Ravenna 

712 AiKsprand, King of the Lombards 

712 Luitprand, King of the Lombards 

713 Scholasticus, Exarch of Ravenna 
715 Gregory IL,* Pope 

727 Paul, Exarch of Ravenna 

728 Eutychius, Exarch of Ravenna (a second time) 
731 Gregory III., Pope 

741 Zacharias, Pope 

744 Hildebrand, King of the Lombards 

744 Ratchia, King of the Lombards and Duke of 

Friuli 
746 Chilperic II. (or ChUperic Martel), King of 

France 
749 Astolfns, King of the Lombards 
752 Stephen II.,* Pope 
752 Stephen III.,* Pope 
752 Pepin, King of France 
756 Desiderius, King of the Lombards and Duke 

of Istria 

756 Pepin gives the Exarchate to the Pope 

757 Paul I.,* Pope 
763 Stephen IV., Pope 
^68 Theophylact, Antipope 
768 Constantine II., Antipope 

768 Charlemagne, King of the Franks 

769 Philip, Antipope 

772 Adrian I.* (of the Col(mna family), Pope 

774 Lombardy, &c., taken by Charlemagne 

795 St. Leo III.,* Pope 

800 Charlemagne (Carolus Magnus) the Frank, 
Emperor of the West. From this time the 
Roman Pontificate was finally separated from 
the Eastern Empire, and came under the 
influence of the Frank or German Empire 

814 Louis I., Emperor of the West 

816 Stephen V.,* Pope 

817 Paschal I.,* Pope 
824 Eugenius II.,* Pope 

826 Zinzinus, Antipope 

827 Valentinus,* Pope 

827 Gregory IV.,* Pope 

828 Egbert I., King of all England 
828 Boniface I., Marquis of Tuscany 
840 Lothaire, Emperor of the West 
844 Sergius IL,* Pope 

846 Leo IV.,* Pope 

847 Adelbert I., Duke of Tuscany 

(Legend of Pope Joan, or "John VIII." 863-5) 
855 St. Benedict III.,* Pope 
S55 Louis II., Empei-or of the West • 
855 Anastasius, Ant^pe 
858 Nicholas I.,* Pope 
867 Adrian II.,* Pope 
872 John VIIL,* Pope 
872 Alfred, KiixK ol Ytv^X^xwOl 

880 Charter 111^ T2L\iv« ol \w^^^ wv<i.^«>^y^ 
QenoaxKy 



INTHODTrOTtOK. 



A.D. 

882 Martin II., Pope 

884 Adrian IIL,* Pope 

885 Stephen VI.,* Pope 

888 Berenf^er, Duke of Frlull 

889 Guy, Dulce of Spoleto, King of Italy; and 

Emperor of Germany, 892 

890 Amulf, Emperor of Germany 

890 Adalbert II., Duke of Tuscany 

891 Formosns,* Pope 

891 Sergius 111., Antipope 

894 Lambert, King of Italy, and Emperor 

897 Boniface VI.,* Pope 

897 Stephen VII.,* Pope 

897 Komanus I., Antipope 

897 Theodore II., Pope 

899 John IX., Pope 

900 Louis the Blind, King of Italy 
900 Benedict IV.,* Pope 

903 Leo v.. Pope 

903 Christopher,* Antipope 

904 Sergius III.,* Pope 

905 Bereniirer. King of Italy ; Emperor, 915 
911 Anastasius III.,* Pope 

913 Landus, or Lando, Pope 

914 John X.,* Pope 

919 Guy, Duke <.f Tuscany 

922 Rudolph, King of Italy and Borgundy 

926 Hugh, King of Italy 

928 Leo VL,* Pope 

929 Stephen VIIL,* Pope 

929 Boson, Marquis of Tuscany 

931 John XI.* (Conti family), Pope 

936 Leo VIL,* Pope 

936 Otho the Oreat^ Emperor of Germany 

986 Hubert, Duke of Tuscany 

988 Aledran, Marquis of Montferrat 

989 Stephen IX., Pope 
943 Martin IIL,* Pope 

945 Lothaire, King of Italy 

946 Airapetus II.-,* Pope 

950 Berenger II. and Adalbert, King of Italy 
956 John XIL* (Conti), Pope 

961 Hugh the Great, Duke of Tuscany 

962 Italy united with Germany, under Emperor 

Otho the Great 

963 Leo VIIL, Antipope 

964 Benedict V.^* Pope 
966 John Xllt,* Pope 

972 Domnus or Donus II.,* Pope 

972 Benedict VI.,* Pope 

973 Otho IL, Emperor of Germany 

974 Boniface VIL, Antipope 
976 Benedict VIL* (ConH), Pope 
983 John XIV., Pope 

983 Otho III., Emperor of Germany 

985 John XV.,* Pope • 

986 John XVI.,* Pope 

987 Hugh Capet, King of France 

991 Pietro Orseolo IL, 26th Doge of Venice 

995 William L, Marquis of Montftrrat 

996 Gregory V., Pope 

IKT j»hii XVIL, Antipope 
■■ "fr^regterlL, Pope 



A.D. 

1001 Adalbert IIL, Doke of Tuscany 

1002 Henry IL, Emperor of Gen&any 

1003 John XVIIL, Pope 
Gregory VI. , Antipope 

lOO:; John XIX.,* Pope 

1009 Ottune Orseolo, Doge of Venice 

lu09 Sergius IV.,* Pope 

1012 Benedictus VIIL* (Conti), Pope 

1014 Kinaldo, Duke of Tuscany 

1017 Canute, King of England 
Gregory VL,* Antipope 

1018 Normans enter Italy 

1024 John XX.,* (or John XIX.), Pope 
1024 Conrad II., Emperor of Germany 

1026 Pietra Barbolano, Doge of Venice 

1027 Boniface, Duke of Tuscany 

1032 Domenico Flabanaco, Doge of Venice 

1033 Benedict IX.,* Pope 
1033 Sylvester III., Aniipope 

1039 Henry IIL, Emperor of Germany 
1043 Will. Braccia-f erro, Count of Apulia 

1043 Domenico Contarini L, Doge of Venice 

1044 Gregory VI.,* Pope 
1046 Clement IL, Pope 
1046 Drogo, Count of Apulia 

1046 Emperor Henry IIL deposes three Popett 

1048 Damasus IL, Pope 

1049 S. Leo IX., Pope 

1051 Humphrey, Count of Apulia 

1054 Robert Guiscard, Count and Doke of Apulia 

1055 Victor IL, Pope 

1055 Beatrtce and Godfrey, Dukes of Toscanj 

1056 Henry LV., Emperor of Germany 

1057 Stephen X., Pope 

1058 Benedict X.* (Conti), Antipope 

1059 Nicholas IL, Pope 

1060 Philip L, King of France 

1060 Boniface L, Marquis of Montferrat 

1061 Alexander 11.* (Badagio family). Pope 
1061 Honorius IL, Antipope 

1066 William the Conqueror, Bling of England. 

1067 Frederick I., Lord of Ferrara 

1071 Domenico Silvio, Doge of Venice 

1072 Roger L, Count of Sicily 

1078 Gregory VIL* (Hildebrand or AldobrandaeM) 
Pope 

1073 Clement IL, Antipope 

1076 Matilda, Countess of Tuscany 

1077 Emperor Henry IV., at Canossa. 

1084 Vitale Faliero, Doge of Venice 

1085 Roger, Duke of Apulia 

1086 Victor IIL* (Epifani), Pope 
1088 Urban IL, Pope 

1090 Paschal IL, Pope 

1095 First Crusade 

1096 Vitale Michel! L, Doge of Venice 
Albert, Antipope 

1100 William IL, Marquis bf Montferrat 

1101 Roger IL, Sicily. Duke of Apulia, 1127 
Kingof Sicily, 1180 

Theodoric, Antipope 
1103 Ordelafo Faliero, Doge of Venice . 

1102 Sylyester IIL, Antipope 



nfTBOBVcnffoir. 



A.©. . 

1106 Henry V., Emporor of Germany 
1108 Amadeus II., first Count of Sayoy 
1108 Louis VI., King of France 

1117 Domenico Micheli, Doge of Venice 

1118 Gelasius II.* (Caetani), Pope 
1118 Gregory VIII., Antipope 

1118 Guy Salinguerra, Lord ofFerrara 

1119 Clixtus II., Pope 

1119 Conrad, Duke of Tuscany 

1123 Ninth Council of Lateran 

1124 Honorius II., Pope 
Celestine 11., Antipope 

1125 Lothairc II., Emperor of Germany 

1126 Rinaldo, Marquis of Montferrat 
1130 Innocent II.* (Paparesehi), Pope 
1130 Silk brought into Italy 

1130 Anacletns II., Antipope 

1130 Pieto Polani, Doge of Venice 

1131 Ramprest, President of Tuscany 
1183 Henry, Count of Tuscany 
1188 Victor IV., Antipope 

1138 Conrad III., Emperor of Germany 

1139 Ulderic, Marquis of Tuscany 

1140 William III., Marquis of Montferrat 

1143 Celestine IL,* Pope 

1144 Lucius II.* (CcKcianemki)^ Pope 

1145 Eugenius IIL* (Paganelli), Pope' 
1148 Domenico Morosidi, Doge of Venice 
1150 Taureilo, or Torelli, Lord of Ferrara 

1152 Fred. I. ii'Barbctrossa), Empgror of Germany 

1163 Anastasins IV.,* Pope 

1153 Guelph, Duke of Tuscany 

1154 Adrian IV. (Breakspeare), Pope; bom at Ab- 

bot's Langley, near Watford 
1154 William I., Kfaig of Sicily 

1166 Vitale Micheli II., Doge of Venice 
1159 Alexander III.* iBandineU{)y Pope 
1169 Victor IV., Antipope 

1164 Paschal HI., Antipope 

1167 William II., the Good, King of Sleily 
1169 Calixtus HI., Antipope 

1178 Sebastiano Ziani, Doge of Venice 

1178 Innocent III., Antipope 

1179 Orio Mastropiero, Doge of Venice 

1180 Philip Augustus, King of France 

1181 Lucius III.* (AUueiffnoK), Pope 
1185 Urban HI.* {CriMlK), Pope 

1187 Gregory VIIL* {Dt Morra), Pope 

1188 Clement IIL* (Scolari), Pope 

1188 Conrad, Marquis of Montferrat 

1189 Tancred, King of Sicily 

1190 Henry VI., Emperor of Germany 

1191 Celestine ni.*( Or«lni), Pope 
1198 Boniface II., Marquis of Montferrat 

1192 Enrico Dandolo, Doge of Venice 

1194 Emperor Henry VI. (Suabia), King of Sicily 

1195 Salinguerra IL {Torelli), Lord of Ferrara 

1195 Pliilip, Tuscany ; elected Emperor, 1198 

1196 Azzo VI. {Este), Lord of Ferrara 

1197 Frederiek, King of Sicily 
1196 foBoeent HI.* (CkmH)^ Pope 

1198 PMlip, Emperor of Qwmny 

1199 JcitaCKtageiBaghmd 



1205 Pietro Ziani, Doge of Venice 

1207 William IV., Marquis of Montferrat 

1208 Otho IV., Emperor of Germany 
1208 Florence, a Republic, till .1531 
1210-15 Frederick IL, Emperor of Germany 
1212 Aldovrandini I. {Este), Lord of Ferrara 
1216 Azzo VII. {Este), Lord of Ferrara 
1216 Honorius III.* (SavelH), Pope 
1224-74 St. Thomas of Aquinas 

1225 Boniface IIL, Marquis of Montferrat 

1226 St. Louis IX., King of France 

1227 Gregory IX.* (Conti) Pope 

1229 Giacomo Tiepolo, Doge of Venice 

1242 Celestine IV.* (Cattiglione), Pope 

1243 Innocent IV.* (FieteM), Pope 

1244 Giacomo (Torelli), Lord of Ferrara 

1249 Marino Morosini, Doge of Venice 

1250 Conrad I., King of Sicily and Emperor of 

Germany 
1252 Ranieri Zeno, Doge of Venice 
1264 Alexander IV.* (GonH), Pope 
1264 William V., Marquis of Montferrat 
1256 Conrad II., or Conradin, King of Sielly 
1267 Martin della Torre, Lord of Milan 
1259 Manfred, King of Sicily 
1261 Urban IV., Pope 

1264 Obizzio II. (Este), Ferrara 

1265 Clement IV., Pone 

1265 Napoleon della Torre, Lord of Milan 
Cimabue, the painter f 

1267 Charles I. (Anjou), King of Sicily 

1268 Lorenzo Tiepolo, Doge of Venice 

1270 Salinguerra III. (ToreUi), Lord of Ferrara 

1271 Gregory X.* (VUeonH), Pope 

1273 Rudolph of Hapsburg, Emperor of Germany 

1275 Giacomo Contarini, Doge of Venioa 

1276 Innocent V., Pope 

1276 Adrian V.* (F%ucM), Pope 

1276 John XXI., Pope 

1277 Nicholas IIL* (Orsini.) Rome beeaaEMg In- 

dependent of the Emperors' 
1277 Otho Visconti, Milan 
1279 Giovanni Dandolo, Doge of Venice 

1281 Martin IV., Pope 

1282 Charles of Anjou, King of Naples 

1282 Pedro I. {Aragon\ King of SicIly~(SleiIiaB 

Vespers 
1286 Charles IL, King of Naples 
1286 Honorius IV.* (Savelli), Pope 

1288 Nicholas IV.* (Masei), Pope 

1289 Pietro Gradcnigo, Doge of Venice 

1292 John I., Marquis of Montferrat 

1293 Azzo YllI.iEste), Lord of Ferrara 

1294 Celestine V.*(i/bfTon<), Pope; who made the 
" gran refiuto" (Dantel Giotto, the painter ♦ 

1294 Boniface VIII. iCaetani), Pope 

1295 Matthew I., Milan 

1296 Frederic IL, King of Sicily 

1298 Albert L (of AastTV«.^^Y.XBC^xAT tA ^^^e^^^^Sy 
Dantct «x\\ed tTOsa "BVont^ftOb. \ ^^wra. vmw 



d\ediaav> 






%.SS£!3^' 



xxxlt. 



Vxfnoj>vonoiX4 



A.T>. 

13i»a Boncdlct XI.* (Bo^c(Uini), Popo 

1303 CIvinent V. Tho Papal Court raoVecl to 

Avl;jrii«m 
13)0 TluMKloni P(il0D<)l()ffUH, Marquis of Moiitforrat 
1308 Kwlko, or Folco {Jiatf), ImvCL of Fcrrara 
1300 Uohort, Klitffof NaplcK 
131 1 (%)unoil of Ten, at Venice 
1811 Marino (Horirl, Doge of Vonico 
1811 (Jiovnnni Soraxo, DoKe of Vonico 
ISU I/ouIhIV., Emperor of Uorniany 
IHlG John XXII., Popo 
1317 KonaUlo Oblsico III. and Nicholas I., Lords 

of Forrara 

1333 (HaleaH I., Viscount of Milan 

1327 Edward III., Kin«r of England 
nn Asxo, Visooant of Milan 

1328 Franoosco Daudolo, Doge of Venioo 
1399 Louis (loniaga I., Lord of Mantua 

1334 Nicholas V., Antlpope In Rome 
1834 Benedict XII., Pope 

1338 Pedro II., King of Sicily 

1S3S John II., Marquis df Montferrat 
1| )9 Luohin, Viscount of Milan 

1339 Dartolommeo Uradonigo, Doge of Venice 
1943 UUnient VL, Pope 

1843 Joanna II., Queen of Naples 
1343 Andreii Dandolo, D<Hre of Venice 
1347 Cola di Rien«i at Rome 
1347 Charles IV., Emperor of Germany 
1819 John, Viscount of Milan. 
1849 Charles IV. (Qermauy) 
lioccaccio 

1853 Imiooent VI., Pope 

]3d3 Aldovrandi III., Lord of Ftorrara 

Petrarch 
18M Venetian Fleet destroyed 

1854 Marimt Faliero, l>og« of Venice 

1854 Mat. 11. and Oaleas II., Viscounts of Milan 

1855 Olovanni Urandeiiigo, Doge of Venice 
me Uiovanni Doltia, Doge of Venice 
U^ iV^orick IIL, King of Sicily 

|«(i() Gu>. Lord of Mantua 

18«l Nicholas IL, Lord of Ferrara 

1861 Lorenao Celsi, Dog« of Venice 

18«3 Urban \\ Pope 

1865 Marco Oomanx I>09« of Vmlce 

1867 Andrea C\Mxtarini« IX^ge of Venice 

1349 LouiH IL, lAurd of Mantua 

1370 Urvgorv XI. (France) P^pe, Tt)9 P«pal Court 

g\MM hack to KivntM 
1873 OthK\ M. of MMi|ferra| 
187S Urban VL* {I^Hifmmi) Pope 
1;)TS John III.. Marquis of Montferral 
1478 Marv 1.. Queen of Sicily 
W4 J«)hn tialeas Viac^Hiti. Duke of Milan 
1878 WenousUs. fimp'^T^^ «^ G«rmany 
1881 TheiKkure II., Marquis of Montferrat 
1383 Mioheli Morosiui. Doge of Veuioe 
1883 Antvtnto Venier^x Dog« of Venice 
J^ Francis L. Lord of Mautua 
iW/ 7i»/umMM» A/h/sMl Ixtniof Florence 



A.T>. 

1387 Clement VII., Antipopo at Avignon 

1388 Albert {Etie), Lord of Ferrara 
1889 Honiface IX.* (Toniacelli), Pope 
1891 Atnadeus Vllf., First Duke of Savoy 
i;<93 Nicholas III., Lord of F*orrara 

1394 Hcnodlct XI it., AntIpo|X) at Avignon 

139.1 John Galcas, Duko of Milan 

1400 MIcholo Stcno, Doge of Venice 

1402 Mnrtln, King of Sicily. (United to Aragon, 

1410) 
1402 John-Mary, Duke of Milan 
1404 Innocent VII.* (Migliorati)^ Popo. He and 

Benedict abdicate 
1406 Gregory XIL* (Coriaro) 

1406 Guy TorroUI, Count of Guastalla 

1407 John Francis I., Marquis of Mantua 

1409 Alexander V. (Phylargyritu)^ Pope 
Fra Angel Ico, tho Painter 

1410 John XXIII.* (Cossa), Pope 
1410 SIglsmund, Emperor of Germany 
1412 Philip-Mary, Duko of Milan 

1414 Tommaso Moceiilgo, Doge of Venice 

1415 Joanna II., Queen of Naples 
1417 NIcolo Albezzo, Lord of Florence 

1417 Martin V.,* (Gotonna), Pope 

141 8 John James, Marquis of Montferrat 

1422 Charles VIL, King of Franco 

1423 Francesco Foscari, Doge of Venice 

1424 Clement VIIL, Antlpope at Avignon 
1427 lilnaldo Alblzza, Lord of Florence 
1431 Eugenlus IV. ^ondolmUri), Pope 

1434 Cosmo do' Medici, Lord of Florence 
Masaccio, the painter 

1435 Alfonzo tho Wise, King of Naples and Aragoa 

1439 Felix V., the last Antlpope 

1440 Frederick IV., Emperor of Germany. The 

last Emperor crowned at Rome 
Discovery of Printing 

1441 Lionel, I/>rd of Ferrara 

1444 Ix>uis III., liord of Mantua , 

1445 John V., Marquis of Montferrat 
1447 Nicholas V.* (PareHtuetfli), Pope 

1449 Christopher and Peter Guy L, Coimta of 

Guastalla 

1450 Rorso, Duke of Forrara 

1450 Francis Sforaa, Duke of Milan 
1453 (XmstanHmopIe taken by the Turkt 
1455 Cllxtus in. (Borgia) Pope 
Mantegna. the painter 

1457 Pasqualo Mallpiero, Doge of Venice 
U58 Plus II.* (Hctotomini)^ l»ope 

1458 Fenlinand L, King of Naples 

1460 Guy Galeotto and Francis-Mary, Connto of 

(niastalla ^ 

1461 Umis XI., King of France 

1463 Christofero Moro, l>i>ge of Venloe 

1464 Paul II.* (Barboi, Pope 
Perughuv, the painter 

1464 Pietro do' Medici, Lord of Florenee 

1464 WtUtam VL, Marquis of Montf^mt 

1469 U^renat) (the Magnificent) and Qlullaae 4e 

Meiiici^ Lords of Fioreno > 
U7 1 liilccolQ Ti^mo, T>o«« a Venlee 



tNTAODUOTIONt 



xxxiii. 



A.b. 

1471 Sixtus IV»* (DeVa Rowre), Pope 
1471 Hercules (Ercolo) I., Ferrara 
Ghirlandajo, the painter 

1473 Niccolo Marcello, Doge of Venice 

1474 Pletro Mocenigo, Doge of Venice 

1474 Ferdinand and Isabelia, King and Queen of 

Spain 
1476 John Galeas-Mary, Duke of Milan 
1476 Andrea Vendramino, Doge of Venice 
1478 Frederick I., Marquis of Mantua 
1478 Giovanni Mocenigo, Doge of Venice 
1484 Innoteent VIIL* (Cibo), Pope 

1484 Jolin Francis, Marquis of Mantua 

1485 Marco Barbarigo, Doge of Venice 

1486 Agostino Barbarigo, Doge of Venice 
1486 Peter Guy II., Count of Guastalla 
1492 Alexander VI. (Borgia), Pope 

1492 Pietro II., Lord of Florence 
Columbus discovers America 

1493 Maximilian I., Emperor of Germany 

1493 William VII., Marquis of Montferrat 

1494 Achilles, Count of Guastalla 
1494 Alfonso II., King of Naples 

1494 The Medici expelled from Florence 
1491 Louis-Mary, Duke of Milan 

1500 Louis XIL, of France, Duke of Milan 

1501 Leonardo Loredano, Doge of Venice 

1502 Pietro Sodorini, Gonfalonier of Florence 
1608 Pius III.* (PiccolominiX Pope 

Leonardo da Vinci 

Machiavelli 

Palma Vecchio, the painter 

1503 Julius II.* (Oiuliano della JHovere), Pope 
Ariosto 

1505 Alfonso L, Duke of Ferrara 
1509 Henry VIII., King of England 

Raphael 
1512 Giuliano de' Medici, Lord of Florence 

1512 Maximilian Sforza, Duke of Milan 

1513 Leo X.* (liedidj. Pope 

1515 Francis I., King of France, and Duke of Milan 

1516 Lorenzo II., Lord of Florence 
Luther and the Reformation 

1518 Boniface V., Marquis of Montferrat 

1519 Charles V., Germany and Spain 
1519 Frederick II., Duke of Mantua 

Michael Angelo 
1519 Giulio de' Medici, Lord of Florence (Pope, 1523) 
1521 Antonia Grimani, Doge of Venice 

1521 Francis-Mary, Duke of Milan 

1522 Adrian VI., Pope 

1622 Louisa Torclli, Count of Guastalla 
Correggio 

1523 Andrea Gritti, Doge of Venice 

1528 Clement VIL* (GiuUo de Medici), Pope 
1530 John George, Marquis of Montferrat. (United 

to Mantua, 1586) 
1581 Alexander, Duke of Florence 
1534 Paul IIL* (Famete), Pope 
1634 Hercules II., Duke of Ferrara 
1687 Cosmo the Great (de' Mtdici), Grand Duke of 

TBflcany 
1689 Ferdinand dtf Qoaxaga, Coaat oi Guastalla 



A.D. 

1539 Pietro Lando, Dogo of Venice 

1540 Francis II., Marquis of Mantua 
1545 Francesco Donato, Doge of Venice 
l-)45 Peter Louis Famcse, Duke of Parma 

G. Romano, the painter 
1547 Octavius Famese, Duke of Parma 
1550 William I., Duke of Mantua 
1650 Julius IIL* iCiocehi), Pope 

1553 M. A. Trevisano, Doge of Venice 

1554 Francesco Veniero, Doge of Venice 

1555 Marcellus II. (Cervini), Pope 
Titian 

Palladio 
Sansovino 

1555 Paul IV.* (Carafa), Pope 
B. Cellini, the sculptor 

1556 Lorenzo Priull, Doge of Venice 

1557 Ceesar L, Lord of Guastalla 

1558 Elizabeth, Queen of England 

1558 Ferdinand I., Emperor of Germany 

1559 Girolamo Priuli, Doge of Venice 
1559 Pius IV.* (Medici), Pope 

1559 Alfonso II., Duke of Ferrara 

1564 Maximiliam II., Emperor of Germany 

1566 St. Pius v.* (Ghislieri), Pope 
Tintoretto, the painter 

1567 Pietro Loredano, Doge of Venice 
1570 Luigi Mocenigo, Doge of Venice 
1572 Gregory XIIL* (3uoncomp<tgni), Pope 

P. Veronese, the painter 

1574 Francis, Grand Duke of Tuscany 

1575 Ferd. II., Duke of Guastalla 

1576 Rodolph II., Emperor of Germany 

1577 Sebastiano Veniero, Doge of Venice 

1578 Nicolo da Ponte, Doge of Venice 
1685 Sixtus v.* (Peretti), Pope 

1585 Pasquale Cicognia, Doge of Venice 

1586 Alexander Famese, Duke of Parma 
Tasso 

1587 Ferd. I., Grand Duke of Tuscany 

1587 Vincent I., Duke of Mantua and Montferrat 

1589 Henry IV., King of France 
1690 Urban VII.* (Castagna), Pope 

L. Caracci, the painter 
Ag. Caracci, the painter 

1590 Gregory XIV.* (S/rondati), Pope 
An. Carracci, the painter 
Caravaggio, the painter 

1591 Innocent IX.* (Facchinetti), Pope 
Domenichino, the painter 
Guido, the painter 

1592 Clement VIII.* (Aldobrandini), Pope 
1592 Ranutio I., Duke of Parma 

1595 Marino Grimano, Doge of Venice 
1697 Caesar I., Duke of Ferrara 

1605 Leo XI * (Medici), Pope 
Galileo 

Guercino, the painter 

1606 Paul v.* (Borghese)^^<!i^ 

1606 LeouatAoXKsR»X»,\>o%fc^^'^««^'^ ^ 
1609 Co«mo 11., GTMv^\i^iJ«A q\'\>M6R»scj 



xxxiy. 



UrTBODITCTlbK. 



A.D. . . 

1612 Matthias, Emperor of Germany 
1612 M. A. Memmo, Doge of Venice 
1616 Giovanni Bembo, Doge of Venice 
1618 Nicolo Donato, Doge of Venice • 

1618 Antonio Priuli, Doge of Venice 

1619 Ferdinand 11., Emperor of Germany 
1621 Gregory XV,* (Ludovisi), Pope 

1621 Ferdinand XL, Grand Duke of Tuscany 

1622 Edward, Duke of Parma 

1628 Urban VIII.* (Barberini), Pope 

1628 Francesco Contarini, Doge of Venice 

1624 Giovanni Comaro, Doge of Venice 

1625 Charles I., King of England 

1626 Vincent II., Duke of Mantua 
Dedication of St. Peter's (founded 1450) 

1627 Charles L, Duke of Mantua 

1629 Francis I., Duke of Modena and Ferrara 
1680 Cajsar II., Duke of Gnastalla 

1630 Nicolo Contarini, Doge of Venice 

1631 Francesco Erizzo, Doge of Venice 

1632 Ferdinand III., Duke of Guastalla 
1637 Ferdinand III., Emperor of Germany 

1637 Charles II. and III., Dukes of Mantua 
S. Ro'sa, the painter 

1638 Charles Emmanuel II., Duke of Savoy 
1644 Innocent X.* (Pamfili), Pope 

1646 Ranutio 11., Duke of Parma 

C. Dolci, the painter 
1646 Francesco Molino, Doge of Venice 
1668 Cromwell, Protector 
1655 Alexander VII.* (Chigi), Pope 

1655 Carlo Contarini, Doge of Venice 

1656 Francesco Comaro, Doge of Venice 

1666 Bertucci Valiero, Doge of Venice 
1658 Leopold I., Emperor of Germany 
1658 Alfonso IV., Duke of Modena 

1658 Giovanni Pesaro, Doge of Venice 

1659 Domenico Contarini II., Doge of Venice 
1662 Frances II., Duke of Modena 

1665 Charles IV., Duke of Mantua 

1667 Clement IX.* (RoapiglioH)^ Pope 
L. Giordano, the painter 

1670 Clement X.* (Altieri), Pope 

C. Maratti, the painter 
1670 Cosmo III., Grand Duke of Tuscany 
1675 Vict. Amadeus II., Duke of Savoy 

1675 Nicolo Sagrcdo, Doge of Venice 

1676 Innocent XL* (Odneakhi), Pope 
1676 Luigi Contarini, Doge of Venice 

1678 Charles, Duke of Mantua and Gnastalla 
1684 M. A. Giustiniani, Doge of Venice 

1688 Francesco Morosini, Doge/>f Venice 

1689 Alexander VIIL (Ottoboni), Pope 

1689 William and Mary, King and Queen of Eng- 
land 

1691 Innocent XII.* (PignaUlli), Pope 

1692 Vincent de Gonzaga, Duke of Guastalla 
1694 Frances I., Duke of Parma 

1694 Reginald, Duke of Modena 
1694 Silvestro Valiero, Doge of Venice 
3700 Clement XI.* (Albmi), Pope 

'* '-'-^ Jfocentgo I., Doge of Venice 
', -Emperor of CteraUmy 



A.D. 

1709 Giovanni Comaro XL, Doge of Venice 
1711 Charles VL, Emperor of Germany 
1718 Charles II., King of Naples 
1715 Antony Ferdinand, Duke of Guastalla 

Canaletto, thej)ainter 
1718 Victor Amadeus 11. , King of Sardinia 

1721 Innocent XIIL* (Conti), Pope 

1722 A. 8. Mocenigo, Doge of Venice 

1723 John Gastone, Grand Duke of Tuscany 

1723 Carlo Ruzzinl, Doge of Venice 

1724 Benedict XIIL* (Ortini), Pope 
1727 Antony, Duke of Parma 

1729 Joseph, Duke of Guastalla 

1730 Clement XIL* (CorHni), Pope 

1730 Charles Emmanuel III., King of Sardinia 

1731 Don Carlos, Duke of Parma 

1735 Charles III. (Bourbon)^ King of Naples 
1735 Luigi Tisani, Doge of Venice 
1737 Francis 11. (Lorraine), Grand Duke of Tus- 
cany. (Emperor of Germany, 1746) 
1737 Francis III., I)uke of Modena 

1740 Benedict XIV.* (Lanibertini), Pope 

1741 Pietro Grimani, Doge of Venice 

1742 Charles VII., Emperor of Germany 
1745 Francis L, Emperor of Germany 

1749 Don Philip, Duke of Parma and Guastalla 

1758 Clement XIIL* (Rezzonico), Pope 

1759 Ferdinand IV., King of Naples 

1760 George IIL, King of England 

1762 Marco Foscarini, Doge of Venice 

1763 Alvise Mocenigo IL, Doge of Venice 
1765 Peter Leopold, Grand Duke of Tuscany 
1765 Joseph II. , Emperor of Germany 

1765 Don Philip, Duke of Parma 
1769 Clement XIV.* (GanganelliX Pope 

Alfieri 

Canova 
1773 Victor Amadeus XXL, King of Sardinia 
1775 Pius VL* (Braschi), Pope 

1779 Pablo Relnler, Doge of Venice 

1780 Hercules, Duke of Modena 

1789 Luigi Manin, last Doge of Venice 

1790 Ferdinand IIL, Grand Duke of Tuscany 
1790 Leopold II. , Emperor of Germany 

1792 Francis II., Emperor of (jtermany 
1797 Modena, part of Cisalpine Republic 

1800 Pius VIL* (Chiaramonti), Pope 

1801 Louis, Grand Duke of Etrurla (Tuscany) 

1802 Victor Emmanuel L, King of Sardinia 

1803 Charles Louis, Duke of Etruria (Tuscan^) 

1803 Parma united to Ftance 

1804 Napoleon L, Emperor of France 

1804 Francis IL of -Germany becomes Emperor of 

Austria ' 

1805 Bacciocchi, Prince of Lucca 

1806 Eliza Bonaparte, Grand Duchess of Tiueany 
1808 Joseph ^apoleon, King of Naples 

Murat, King of Naples 
1814 Ferdinand IIL (restored), Grand Dnke of 

Tuscany 
1814 Maria liouisa. Grand Duchess of Parm* 
1814 ^ancifl IV., Duke of Moden^ (MasM and 

Gttmara nMedte Modena, 18f^ 



INT&ODITOnoir. 



XXXV. 



1815 f'erdlnand IV. (restored as Ferdinand I. of 

Naples) 
1821 Charles Felix, King of Sardinia 

1828 Leo XII.* (Oenga), Pope 

1824 Leopold II , Grand Duke of Tuscany 
1824 Charles Louis, Oake of Lucca 

1829 Pius VIIL* (Castiglioni), Pope 

1830 Louis Philippe, King of France 

1830 Ferdinand II. (" Bomba"), King of Naples • 

1831 Gregory XVI.* fCapeUari), Pope 
1831 Charles Albert, King of Sardinia 
1838 Isabella, Qaeen of Spain 

1835 Ferdinand, Emperor of Austria 

1837 Victoria, Queen of England 

1846 Pius IX.,* Pio Nono (Mcutai-FerretH), Pope, 

16tb June. Bom, 1792 
1846 Francis V., Duke of Modena 
1848 Francis Joseph, Emperor of Austria 

1848 Repablic in France 

1849 Victor Bmmanttel //., King of Sardinia, May 

24th, upon the abdication of his father, who 
died at Oporto the same year 

LEADING EVENTS IN THE REIGNS OF 
VICTOR EMMANUEL AND UMBERTO I. 

1849 February— June. Rome under the Triumvirs 

— Mazzini, Safii, Ac. 

1850 April 4. Pope Pius returns to Rome from 

GaSta 
1852 Napoleon III., Emperor of France 
1855 Italy joins the Allies in the Crimea 

1859 Francis IL, King of Naples 

„ April 27. Leopold II. leaves Tuscany 
„ 29. Austria invades Piedmont 
June 4. Battle of Magenta 
„ „ 35. Battle of Solferino 
„ July 11. Treaty of Villafranca 
„ „ Lombardy annexed to Sardinia 

1860 March 18—24. Annexation of Tuscany, Mo- 

dena, Parma, and the Papal Legations of 
the Romagna, Umbria, and the Marches 
„ March 24. Savoy and Nice ceded to France 
May 11. Garibaldi lands in Sicily 
November. Naples and Sicily annexed by 
GaribaldL Monastic houses suppressed 

1861 February 18. First Italian Parliament meets 

at Turin 

March 17. Victor Emmanuel assames the title 
of King of Italy. Constitution of Sardinia 
(March 4, 1848) extended to the countries 
. annexed 

June 6. Death of Cavour 

1863 May 29. Garibaldi captared at Aspromonte 
November. Father Passaglia and 10,000 
priests declare against the Pope's temporal 

„ November. Rail from Rome to Naples opened 
UH Alkrfl. GAribaldi visits En^and 
V) iirefmiiber 4. RaU from TtoJin to Florence 



»1 



»1 

11 



»» 



»* 



»» 



1» 



11 



11 



\ 



A.D. 

1865 May 14. At Florence, the new capital of Italy, 

the king oi)ens the Dante Festival, by un- 
covering Pazzi*s statue opposite Santa Croce, 
on the 600th anniversary of the poet's birth 

„ August 26. Mr. Moens captured by brigands 

„ The Pope proclaims a jubilee 

„ November 18. First Italian Parliament a& 
Florence 

1866 January 18. Death of D'Azeglio 
July 6. Venetia ceded by Austria 
July 20. Italian fleet defeated by Austrians 

off Lissa 

1867 August. Church Property Bill passed 

„ September 23. Garibaldi stopped at Sinalunga 

and sent to Caprera 
October 15. Garibaldi leaves Caprera, defeats 

tfie Papal forces at Monte Rotondo, October 

26 and 27 
October 30. French troops at Civita Vecchia. 

Garibaldi defeated at Montana, November 8 ; 

sent to Caprera, November 21 

1868 March. New Order of the " Crown of Italy" 
„ November 13. Vesuvius in eruption 

„ „ 28. Etna in eruption 

1869 February 22. Marriage of priests legalised by 

the law courts 
„ Pope summons an (Ecumenical (Universal) • 

Council. Dr. Cummingofiers to attend the 

Council dh the Protestant side 
October 5. Italian government protests against , 

the Council 
December 8. Opening of the Council attended 

by 800 dignitaries. December — January, 

Papal Infallibility voted by 450 against 88 
1870. May 8. Republican rising at Catanzaro 
„ September 2. Battle of Sedan followed by 

evacuation of Civita Vecchia by the French 
October 9. States of the Church annexed, 

after a plebiscite of 133,681 against 1,507. 

Pope's temporal power abolished 
October 20. Rome annexed. The GScumeni- 

cal Council adjourned sine die 
November 16. Victor Emmanuel's son, 
• Amadeo, elected King of Spain 
December 4. Pius IX. issues another Ency- 
clical letter 
December 25. Mont Cenis Tunnel finished 

after twelve years' labour 
December 81. Victor Emmanuel visits Rome, 

at the inundations of the Tiber 
1871 January 23. Prince Humbert moves to Rome 
May 13. Law of Guarantees passed assuring 

the Pope of his position and income at 

Rome. 
„ June 16 The Pope celebrates the twenty-fifth 

year of his pontificate 
July 2. The king and government move to 

Rome, the new capital of Italy 
September 17. Mont G««sN& "^^sksn.^ Vs^^^J^"^ 

opened lot \x«t.^<;^ 
187^ Deat\iotlll«AT\xv\%.\.'«\»a. . v*.v*i»«v*»^*^ 



11 



11 



yj 



11 



11 



11 



11 



11 



11 



11 



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xxxvi. 



INTRODrCTION» 



11 



11 



11 



11 



A.D. 

ls73 September 16. King visits Vienna and Berlin. 

1874 Marcii 23. Celebrates the ;;£th year of his 
reign, at Rome 

1875 Oaribaldi takes his seattn the Chamber 

1876 The King receives the Emperor of Austria at 
Venice, and the German Emperor at Milan. 

November 6. Death of Cardinal Antonelli, 
who leaves his collections to the Vatican 

November 8. Death of Duchess of Aosta, 
M'ife of Prince Amadeo (Duke of Aosta) 

1878 January 9. Humbert 1. succeeds upon the 
death of his father, Victor Emmanuel 

Feb. 10. Leo Xlll.CPecci), Pope, in succession 

to Pius IX., who died 7th February 
Novtmbe*. King Humbert's life attempted 

1879 March. Queen Victoria visits Baveno, Lago 
Maggiore 

1882 June 2. Death of Oaribaldi at Caprera 

Books. — Among the books quoted in the l)ody of 
the Italian Hand-book, or deserving the reader's 
attention, are the following: — 

Rose's '•' Letters from the North of Italy," 2 volumes 

Forsyth's "Remarks on Antiquities, Arts, and 
Letters, in Italy " 

Beckford's "Letters from Italy," 2 volumes. 1805 

Laing's " Notes of a Traveller in Italy," &c. (Tra- 
veller's Library). 1854 

" Italy," by Lord Broughton (Sir J» C. Hobhouse), 
2 volumes. 1859 

Whiteside's "Italy in the Nineteenth Century." 
1860 

Arthur's "Italy in Transition." 1860 

Norton's " Notes of Travel and Study in Italy." 
1860 

Mrs. Gretton's "Englishwoman in Italy," 2 volumes 

Miss Bremer's " Switzerland and Italy," 2 volumes. 
1861 

Miss Catlow's " Sketching Rambles in the Apen- 
nines, <&c," two volumes. 1861 

Stansfield's'" Italian Movement." 1862 

Count Arrivabeue's " Italy under Victor Emman- 
uel," 2 volumes. 1862 

Dr. (Bishop) Wordsworth's "Tour in Italy," 1863 

Mendelssohn's "Letters from Italy" 

Gallenga's "History of Piedmont," 2 volumes. 
i 1855. His "Country Life in Piedmont;" and 
1 his "Italy Revisited." 1875 
! Ball's " Guides" to the Western and Central Alps 
: King's " Italian Valleys of the Alps." 1858 

T. A. Trollope's "Tuscany in 1849 and 1859." His 
" Lenten Journey in Umbria." 1862 

Misses Homers' "Walks in Florence" 

Braun's " Hand-Book to the Ruins and Museums 
of Rome." 1853 
• J. H. Parker's " Archaeology of Rome" 

C. Hemans's "Historical and Monumental Rome;" 
and his "Medieval Christianity" 

Dicey's " Rome in 1860." Published 1861 

Wills's "Roman Candles." 1861 

Dean Burgon's "Letters from Rome" 
^.^. a. Ifare's "IF/»JJr« Jji Rome" 

-v^v'a ''£oiae, " wJtb about 3^0 eDgrarlnga 



Farini's " History of the Roman States." 1815-60, 

translated by the Right Hon. W. £. Gladstone 
Robelli's " Rome et scs Environs " 
Nibbv's "Itinerario di Roma" 
W. W. Storv's " Roba di Roma," two volumes. 1863 
Story's " Castle of S. Angelo, and the Evil Eye" 
Canon No'.thcotc's *' Epitaphs from the Cata- 
combs; " and liis " Roma Sotterranea" 
S. A. Smith's "Tiber and its Tributaries: their 

Natural History and Associations" 
Kavanagh's "Summer and Winter in the Two 

Sicilies." 1860 
Homer's "Century of Despotism in the Two 

Sicilies." 1860 
Admiral Mimdy's " Palermo and Naples." 1863 
" Garibaldi's Campaigns," by Captain Forbes 
Keppel Craven's "Tours in the Abruzzi and 

Naples" 
Admiral Smyth's "Sicily" 

Brydone's " Tour through Sicily and Malta." 1770 
Forester's "Rambles in Sardinia and Corsica" 
Murray's Knapsack edition of " Byron's Poems." 
The notes to the 4th canto of " Childe Harold" 
are by Lord Broughton 
Crowe and Cavalcaselle's "History of Painting 
in Italy to the 14th century ; " and the " History 
of Painting in North Italy, 14th to 19th cen- 
turies" 
Simond's "Tour in Italy,"— praised by Dickens. 
W. Davies's " Pilgrimage of the Tiber." 1 874 
Shakspere Wood's " New Curiosum Urbis." 1876 
J. H. Middleton's "Ancient Rome," 1886 
Forbes' "Rambles in Rome." 
Monsign. C. A. Pasini's '* Guide de la Basiliqae 
St. Marc." 1887 



SKELETON BOTTTE TO TUBIK. 

From Paris by rail throughout; for which 
Through Tickets are issued by the different rail- 
ways. A daily international through service is 
now established in this direction; and to Geneva 
for Switzerland, as well ; the two routes parting 
offatCuloz. Paris to 

Mft^on, on Lyons Railway 276 miles 

Culoz (bufifet) 834 „ 

[Geneva, 872 miles.] 

Chamb^ry 3564 „ 

St. Michael (buflfet) 407 „ 

Susa ; 457J „ 

Turfai 490l „ 

PARIS Station, in Boulevard Diderot. 

Pass Bercy Wine Stores, Suspension Bridge 
on the Seine, and Viaduct on the Mame, Charen- 
ton, Alfort Veterinary College, and Vincennes 
Castle, in view to the left. 

Villknedvb-St.-Gbokges, 9| miles, on the Seine. 

Brunoy. — Wellington was Duke of Bmnoy. 
Brie-Comte-Robert Church to the left. ' 

Mblun.— Capital of department Selne-et-Mame. 
Large old Church and Gothic belfry. Great House 
of Detention on an island. Amyot, who trana* 



INTROBUOTION. 



xxxvii. 



lated Plntarchf was a native. Nangis Castle, and 
Orange Bleneau, to the left; the latter was Lafay- 
ette's seat. 

Fontainebleau. — Old Palace, hegun as early 
as twelfth century. One court is the Cour-des- 
Adieux, where Napoleon took leave of his Guards. 
Louis XVI.*8 pillar outside the town. Fine views 
in the forest. 

Thomert, 3} miles. Noted for chasselas grapes. 

MoNTERBAn. — ^Buffet for refreshment. On the 
Vonne and Seine. Junction with the Chauroont 
line, Jean Sans-Peur's sword in the old church ; 
he was murdered here by Charles the Dauphin. 

Sens. — Sous-prefecture. Old gates and walls, 
half Roman. Early Gothic cathedral, with Becket's 
mitref Ac Hotel de Ville. Fleurigny Chftteau. 

ViLLFHKUVE-suR-YoNNE. — Gothic gates and 
church ; old castle. 

JoiGXY. — Sous-prefecture. GKx>d views. Hotel 
Bleu. Ancient chfiteaiL 

Laroche. — Refreshment Buffet. 

St. Florestin. — On the Arman^on . Good views. 
Canal de Bourgogne and aqueduct. Church of the 
XIV. century. Ervy Castle to the left. 

ToNKBRRE. — Buffet for refreshment. Sous-pre- 
fecture, in Burgundy wine district. Rich hospital 
founded by St. Louis's sister-in-law, Margaret. 
Old chftteau. St. Pierre's Gothic Church. To the 
right, Chablis, noted for white wine. The Turin 
Express does not stop here. 

Taklat. — Fine chftteau of the Tanlay family, in 
the Renaissance style. 

Lbzinb Tunnel, 1,740 feet. Passt Tunnel, 3,280 ft. 

MoNTBARD. — In department C6te d'Or. Buffon's 
Chftteau, where he wrote his '* Natural History." 
Semur is on a rock to the right. 

Lbs Laumes. — Alise Abbey, and sulphur spring 
near ; hilly country, and fine views. 

VERRBT.^Old chftteau. St. Seine Church, in a 
deep pass, to the left. 

Blaist Bas. — One of the most remarkable 
tonnels in Prance, 2| miles long, at the highest 
part of the line. A succession of tunnels and via- 
ducts hence to Dijon. 

MALAiv.—Combe-de-Fain Viaduct near this, 147 
feet high, on a double row of arches. 

Dijon.— Buffet for reft-eshment. Chief town of 
department Cdte d'Or, and old capital of Bur- 
trundy. Cdte d'Or Hills in view. Cathedral, with 
tall spire, 328 feet high. Old cathedral church. 
Ancient Palais des Etats, with ducal effigies, &c 
Large prefecture and theatre. 

C2lMon*4nir-8a6]ie.— Sous-prefecture and a 
Boman station. Two churches. Old bridge and 
hospital. Here Ni^pce, one of the French in- 
ventors of photography, was bom. 

TouBNCS. — Suspension bridge on the Sadne, 
Boman pillar. Greuze's paintings in the church. 

Hl^^ y^, — Buffet for refreshment. Chief town 
of Sadne-et-Loire. Modem Cathedral ; and towers 
of the old one. Lamartine bom here. Tho main 
IhM to hfoM foUowB the livw. 



Here the Mont Cenis line turns off tg Chamb^ry 
and crosses the Sadne on a viaduct. 

Bourg, or Bourg-en-Brasse.— Chief town of 

Aix, founded thirteenth century. Semi-Gothic 
Church ot Notre Dame. Lorin Museum at Hdtel de 
Ville. Fine Church of Le Brou, built by Margaret 
of Austria. 

Pont d'Ain.— Suspension bridge on the Ain. 
Amb^eibu, at the foot of the Jura Hills. 
Aetekarb. — Mont Colombier, 5,000 feet high. 
CuLOZ. — On the Rhdne. Here the branch line 
to Geneva, about 42 miles long, parts off. 

AlZ-les-BainS. — in Savoy, now part of Franco. 
A watering-place, visited for its mineral springs 
and fine neighbourhood. 

Cliaml>^r7.— For this and the remainder of the 
road to the Italian frontier, over the fine scenery of 
Mont Cenis, see Route 5 (page 592) in the 
Special Edition of Bradshaui's Continental Ouide, 
For the great Tunnel^ see page 591 of the same. 

Distances from Turin by rail to 
Miles. 
Genoa (Route 4) ... 108 

Milan (Routes) 94 

Venice (Route 13) .. 260 
Bologna (Route 15) 252 



Miles. 

Florence (Route 21) 258 

Ancona (Route 22). 379 

Brindisi (Routes 30, 

38) 728 



There are refreshment buffets on the Brindisi 
line at Ancona, Pescara, Foggia, and Bari. 

There is also a service vid Calais, Basle, and the 
St. (Sothard to Milan, see under St. Gothard and 
Route 6 in Bradthato't Continental Ouide^ the latter 
in the Special Edition. 

♦»*For the approaches to Italy through Switzer- 
land, see the Itinerary of the Alpine Passes and 
Lakes, and Routes 2, &c., in the Special Edition of 
Bradshato^s Continental Ouide, or see BradshoM'i 
Hand-Book to Steitzerland. For routes vid Mar- 
seilles, see Bradshaw's Hand-Book to France^ or 
the Continental Guide, 



DISTANCES OF THE PRINCIPAL RAILWAY 
STATIONS FROM FLORENCE, in chUometri 
or kilometres. 

(N.B.— For English miles, take iths.) 



Chil. 

Acerra 684 

Acqul 410 

Acqulno 574 

Alba 443 

Albano 466 

Alessandria 376 

Ancona 836 

Arona 435 

Arquata 410 

Asciano 130 

Asti 411 

Bari I^V 

BEHGkilO ^^^^ 



Chil. 

BorgoTicino 426 

Borgo 8. Donino ... 244 

Brescia 449 

Brindisi 895 

Camerlata 393 

Capua 654 

Caravaggio 387 

Carmagnola 470 

Casale 409 

Casorta 665 

Castcl liQ\»'gCkS»Ri. ,,, wv 






Bi^U ^^J. 






XXXTiii. 



UfTBODUOTIOK. 



DISTANqjSS OF THE PBIKCIFAL RAILWAY 
STATIONS— 0^<<n«Mf. 



ChU. 

Chamb^ry 689 

Chiusi 187 

Chlvasso 470 

Civita Vecchla 856 

Conegliano 673 

Cbemona ^ 446 

Cuneo £17 

Desenzano 477 

Eboli 778 

Empoli 83 

Faenza 182 

Fano 289 

FSSBABA 179 

FicuUe 204 

Foggia 662 

Follonica ;. 202 

Forli 196 

Fossano 494 

Frascati 457 

Frbsinono 534 

Gallarate 389 

QsNOVA (Genoa) ... 452 
Grosseto 244 



ChD. 

Imola 167 

Ivrea ,».*, COS 

Legnano 377 

LivoRNO (Leghorn) 98 

Lodi 316 

Lonato 473 

Loreto 860 

Lucca 78 

Lugo 188 

Magenta 363 

Maktoya (Mantua) £54 

Massa 122 

Melegnano 331 

Mestre 625 

MiLANO 848 

MODENA 169 

Moncalieri 459 

Monza 861 

Napolx (Naples) ... 698 

Nola 689 

Novara 898 

Orbetello 282 



Chil. 

Osimo M 852 

Padoya (Padua) ... 59G 

Parioi (Paris) 1279 

Pabica 222 

Pavxa 370 

Pesaro 277 

Pescara 482 

Peschiera 4&2 

PlACBNZA 279 

Pinerolo 505 

Pi8A 80 

Pistoia 84 

Poggio Imperialc... 619 

Pompeii „ 721 

Pontedecimo 439 

Ponte Lagoscuro ... 184 

Porticl 708 

Potenza Picena 373 

Praccbia 60 

Ravenna 216 

Reggio.. 194 

RiMiNZ 243 

Riva 601 

Rivoli 484 

Roma 489 



ChU. 

Salenxo 7M 

Saluzzo 497 

Sarzana .- 142 

Siena 97 

Sinigaglia 811 

Spezia 156 

Susa 530 

Teano 683 

Termoli 576 

ToKiNO (Turin) 467 

Tortona 854 

Trani 742 

Treriglio 880 

Treviso 646 

I'RISSTB 884 

Udine 751 

VeUetri 481 

Venbzia (Venice)... 683 

Vercelli 420 

Vebona 518 

ViCENZA 566 

Yillafrilnca 425 

Villanova 487 

Voghera 338 

Voltrl 450 



SECTION I.— NORTHERN ITALY. 



Ctrrin ia ^laxtntk. 



PIEDMONT— LOMBAEDT—VENETIA— EMILIA— EOMAGNA. 
TUEIN— VAUDOIS COUNTRT—AOSTA— GENOA 

AND THE ErVTEEA. 

MILAN— LAKES MAGGIOEE, COMO, &o. 

BEESCIA—VEEONA— MAGENTA— SOLFEEINO— "VTCENZA— 

PADUA— VENICE— PAVIA— 

MANTUA- PAEMA— MODENA— FEEEAEA— RAYENNA— 
BOLOGNA— SAN MAEINO, &o., &a 



■) 



1 . 



I 

I 

I 

I 

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f 



^ .. .--^, ^, w-««, , oupiuii^ iWflMS^ \% «9ttva\ V^^ ^^- 



^ 



SECTION I.— KORTHEBN ITALY. 



K.B.— rOB THE BOUTE8 ACB088 EUEOPB TO ITALY, 8BB IHTBODUCTIQN. 
An cuUritk [•] in the follomng page* denotes olifectt deserving speeial notice. 



TURIN (Stat): In Italian, Torino. 
|r«palation (1889), 805,000, with environs. 

[Hotel de rEnrope, Piazsa Castello, opposite tlie 

ig's palace, five minute** walk from the station. 

ftiitiiol first-class hotel, entirely rcfamished, 
replete with every modem convenience. 
>iiuneQded. See Advt. 
[Hotel Feder, one of the best. Recommended. 
Hotel Trombetta,one of the best in Turin, under 
e immediate superintendence of the new pro- 
ifltor, Mr. Lieopold Baglionl. 
Grand Hotel de Turin.— Branoh establishment 

the Bernerhof at Berne, and Kraft's Hotel de 
lee at Nice, kept by M. Constant Kraft. English 
mrcli Service. 
[Orand Hotel Suisse. Advantageously situated, 

Sng the General Station. 

Baglionrs Grand Hotel and Pension d* Angleterre. 

•11 and conveniently situated in the Via Roma, 
the central Station. 



Hotel de Londres. 

Mestaurant de la M&idienne, 6, Via S. Teresa. 

Cb/^._Sau Carlo, in Piazza S. Carlo ; De Paris; 

Iniiblo; Due Indie. Plain breakfast of coffee, 

ie^TdO cents; dinner, 2 francs; cup of mixed 

Jffee and chocolate, called ''beccherino," drunk 

I early morning ; bread, in slender sticks, like 

f»i«^ two feet long, called grissinl, crisp and 

Mit. The wines are Barbera, Barolo, Caluso, 

Ml, and Soma. 

\OmK&nue$ belonging to the different hotels con- 

Iff passengers to and from the station, 1 franc. 

Iwn onmibuses, from one extremity of the city to 

b other, 10 cents. Cittadini, 1 franc for one 

forte, and 1 franc 50 cents by the hour. The 

keret ply for hire in the Piazza Castello. 

.S^om Tranwaps run to many of the smaller 

Aees in the neijshbourhood. 

Y^imey.—ln lire (or francs) and centeslml (or 

fDts). Value about the same as French tmnm 

tA centimes. 

iPoet 0^.— In Via Principe Amedeo. The latest 

kr for posting^french and English letters is 

i£it%iph 0^160— Close to the Qeneral Post Oflce. 



Resident English Vice-Consul and AmeHean Oon- 
sular Agent. 

Church of England Service is performed ertry 
Sunday, at 1 1 a.m. and 3 p.m., in the chapel behind 
the Vaudois Church, Corso Vittorio Emmanuclell. 
Entrance by the side gate. Via Pio (^uinto, 15. 
Bible Society's Agent at this address. 

Railtcays to Susa, Mont Cenis, Paris, Pinevolf. 
Cuneo, Genoa, Milan, Ivrea, Cirl^ Qastellamontt, 
Biella, Arona, &c.— One to Marseilles is proJeQted, 
via Saluzzo and Digne. 

Passengers by the Slmplon route are booked 
through from Turin to Domo d'Ossola, where they 
must take a fresh ticket. 

Paper money is accepted at the railway stations, 
but only for that part of the Journey w}^ch it 
within Italian territory. 

In Italy the locomotives are called Alfi^, Pfintt, 
Tasso, Volta, (Galileo, Manzoni, and so on, after 
their great men. The rail is **ttrada ferr»t««" or 
"ferrovia.*' 

Funicular Railway from Piazza Castello to L« 
Superga, see page 5. 

Races. — End of May, in the Piazza d*Anni, or dei 
Anui. 

*Chi^ Objects o/JVb^e.— Cathedral ; Piazza Cat- 
tello; King'sPalace; Armoury; Palazzo Madama 
and Picture Gallery; Carignano Palace; Churehet 
of S. Filippo, Corpus Domini. Madre di Die, 
Superga (Funicular Railway) ; Mole Antonelllant ; 
Capuchin Convent; University; Theatre Royal; 
Cavour's House ; Statues of Cavour and D'^^eglio. 
Architecture by Guarini and Giuvarit. 

TuKiH, the capital of the Sardinian States and 
of the new kingdom of Italy, till the court moved 
to Florence, 1865, is on the west side of the River Po, 
where the Dora Riparia joins it, in a fertile plain, 
adorned with gardens and villas (called v^fne); 
the Snowy Alps being in the distance to the nortk, 
including Mont Blanc, Monte Viso (at the head of 
the Po), and Monte Rosa. This plain lies at the 
foot of tlie mountains, and hence derives its namt^ 
Piemonte (Piedmont in French), because it is a pit 
del monte. The nearest range of hills (the Collinm 
on the loutb) it 1,800 ftet aboro the tea on th* 
average; but tb« hiffawt mIbIn «0k ^eJ^SnOa^ 
Superga tU&di^ V% t^MoXl^V^ Iw^ 



S BRADSHAW'a I' 

It ttkct nnidc from tha Tmrinl, In OiiUla Clul- I n B 
nlna, after irhom the Romani called It JutfiuIB it a 

or tore. Fen antlqulllea have been (ound. After ■ csat 

cngth mnilo It tl 

:o,fliiKlhlir«lile 

n>e French tonk it In ie40, in Rlchellen'i ili 
ilBged it [n IJM, when f - - - 






Princ. 



. DorlnK 



IBM, a 



bis lilnnd 

public pApera It was alj^led I 

City." "Counlesa of Oruliaaco," a 



part o( Frani 
fclUB, Victor 
Bardliila. " 
"Illurtrtou 

TTlth Bluunt the regnlarllT of an American cily, In 



regnloriyahapad-Walw^lo 

areTal'l"'T Tebiclei. A atrang r»ur-9tiled citadel, 
oiie-thirdofamlUliidlameter.fc— --■-'--- '-' 



OaUi, BTldfea, — - - 

four Qalsa. which hnTo left Ihc 
the Porta dlPo on 111 



fcO.-There 
> left Ihcli 



[Section 1. 

Flew of (he elty 






The I'D i> a broad, dirty, and t 
lueh xroUen al tbe time of the i 
SanaTM.— There are over ■ 



Hi TO Morn 



of Amndeo VI. Plai 



lel^nded 


of the Dukea aV Savoy, where the Senate, or 




Chan.ber of Peer., met till ISSS. ...d the Police 


iwri) are 




m™d<i 


dr.U« on the north elJe; thoTheMre Eoyalon 


e yeart. 


'"luS^ Pal*CM.-The Caille, or -Pabuiio Ma- 












the thlrt«ntb centnrr, r«lored hy Duke Amarteo 


ml. Doia 








old towflra li ated aa an ObMrratory. 




The •«oi«iIi\i(aM(PBlaiMA™"Jlsalarire pile, 


l«hlnd; 




ad. Porta 


byCa«ellam<.nt..wltl,theKarrten.b;hind,towJrf, 


the wont 




he .oDtb 


on. yon aee the marble eque.lrlnn italne of bia 




rather, TOtorlo Amadeo 1. On the atalrcais. a 


74'^ 








d 1.81X1 MS8.. Inclnfllngr ' 
d mno 3.000 dealgni, i 



albyEUpha^LCarn^iOt i 



u (I flhf portico o( flut«d CO 






bspvlroii, inr 
• bring eqM.lr 



-Clow to^bc PaLaco, on th 



S.Giori 



rr- II II 



I nutbliiE ilrlklng 



The*CW»efr 
(Jolili Bnpllai) 

Midioii Bo'.™,"i4S«-lMS'. 
■boutit, TbeporUlls — 
«nd the pilUri ftro wfto 

O^' Bt.TuKu'offcrEnir her Hil<in7o Ood. nnd 
mnnlitr of Bl. TcroM with Ihe Palm of ManjT- 
dDzq. Behind the h\Kh *Uar, «iid lit by « utilned 

Chapel, chicfl)- of t'latk pollahed marble, with ali 

■DcntaTilteToliraorQuaanUarUAiitlaldeassa), 
uid anothet by GaHlnL Thoiif^ adomcd with 
whito murble monomenti, broniL'a, Ac, the dirk 
colontof Udaehapelglr--" -- — ' 



"s'XiS 



mClTuT 


ei ud 1 hopela of Turin. 


orlhyof 


nolliic STB the (lOloTilng;— 


alala Cku 


reh. In the Via dolla Conool 



llghtlT omamcnlEd. IboiiEh liTf Ruler In lla abiipc. 
Jt IndDdei on i Id chapel of the lentb century. In 
th* Plana. lachiK It. U an Imaee o( I he Virgin. 



Mnrla Tliiirr»a and Mari 

traytd to the Hadonnr 
icky numbcrBforiholo 



hatchet. Tiie mob 



i; Iwgnii hj Qnulnl, wbow Tknli 



ielEht-ilded.wlth 



The chnrch In a work ol Guarlnl of the eenn- 
teonlh century. 

■drpui Amrfnf, In the PluiB or that name.wM 
tuilonof omenKnt by Alfitrl. That ot S. SpfHla, 
UUna, and Doled on account of Rouieau'i ab)uriB| 

Santa Trrea, in Contrida dl S. Tereea. wai built 
less, by Uuke Vlttorio Amadeo I, and hai a later 
rofado by Allbcrll (lTe4). with eaiue ilabailer 

by lioke Carlo Kmnuiiuele 1.. from Vnlperga'a de- 



jfi^^rV.-Ch^iT 


5. CWUfao, wit 


a rerj' correct 


"F^lng theee e 


hurchei, in 1 




Marochelii's broni 






t-lllbarto. wUh bnt-rclii'fi of the bat 


i-^'Jt; 


In (which he won, IMT), and the ir. 


Cambreili (1MB). 






The JniriO- Ciare 


A wai built IS 


7 from Pellc- 


grlnl^^d*^,, an 


i. Ycrj^ilohl 


marbtca and 


S. TbmBMM, one 




S. FroKrUtt dt P 


Wo. by PHleBttni, la'a pwd 


hurch, wilhabu.t 


of Carnoll, the sculptor. 


a«,l«it<»-l«a^U^ 


Maiio.oneofth 








aign.. ^ 




rounded 1*'*, 












nercino-i Chrlrt 


In the Tomb. 




founded by M. 




i>i. IJI.'i, thefu^l 


belneaJiirto 


VMant. **■ 


S. Beree, ollh a d 


n«!. Include, a 


roni by Deria. 


of an ocla«<ni abape 


on elEht pillar 




by Ijintranchl. 








the Pinerolo Road. biiTliiio. 




the Cnua. 




'Delia Oratt Madndt Dio.ntratal 


ePoRrldmle 


a modem chnrch b 


uiltln WIS by 






etum ol the B 


yal ll?i,« to 


Turin, in I«i4, and 


la a HTt ol m 


nialur. of the 


Pantheon, faced wi 




avlr.K n)arb1e 


illari. He Aborc 


II !• the Capn< 


bin Chnrch of 


I J/'oHft. command 
hepUjnoflbel'o 




Hhe city aad 




. C<Jkct afm 


Hptiv. on a 



Th« Tempta TolAtit,™'^*' 



BRAD8HAW8 ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



the Central railway station. A splendid Synagogue, 
in the Moorish style, with a massive tower, was 
opened 1871. 

PaJaces.— At Palazzo Carignano^ ti \a.rs<i semi- 
circular pile of cut brick built by Guaiini, the 
Italian Chamber of Deputies held their nittiiigs 
tin 1865. The rooms now contain the very good 
Natural History Collection (open, free, 1 to 4), 
formerly in the Ac-iricmy of Sciences. 

Palazzo di CUth is the Town Hall. There are 
several statues iu front of it. 

Palazzo Birago di Borgaro was built by Giuvara. 

Palazzo Priero has an excellent picture gallery 
(private). Palazzo Carlo Felice is near the Genoa 
railway station. 

Theatres.— •2Vjea^r« Royal (Teatro Regio) or 
Opera House, in Palazzo Castello, was built by 
Alfiv ri, and is the third largest In Italy, v»rlth every 
requisite for the public safety and comfort. Depth 
from curtain to back of boxes, 90 feet ; depth of 
stage, 100 feet; wl.ith of the curtain, 60 feet. 
' Teatro Vittorio Emmanuele, Via Rossini ; operas, 
ballets, &c. 

Teatro Carignano, in that Place, supported by 
columns, is used for comic operas, &c. 

Academy of Soiences, comer or Piazza Carig- 
nano, contains the Museum of Antiquities, and the 
Picture Galleries. The building, by Guarini(1674), 
was formerly the Jesuit College. 

1.— Cabinet of Antiquities (Museo dl Antichitk), 
Egyptian, Grecian, Roman, and Etruscan, besides 
one of 11,000 models arranged by countries. 
Among the marbles are Cupid sleeping in the Lion's 
Skin, Head of Antinous, a bronze Minerva, a 
mosaic (Oi*pheu8 and his Lyre) found at Stampace, 
1766, many Roman and other bronzes, vases found 
at I'otenzo, busts of ^Esop, Julian, Ac. 

The *Egyptian Afuseum, founded on the purchase 
of Drovetti's collection in 1823, by Carlo Felice, is 
very rich and celebrated, having, among other 
objects, statues of Osymandtas (15 feet high), 
Tliothmes I. and II., Amenophis II. (or Memnon), 
Ramescs II. (or Scsostris), in granite or basalt, 
also Egyptian paintings, ornaments, domestic 
articles, mummies, papyri, MSS. on linen (one 
being part of a chronology, and a list of about 100 
kings), and the Isaic Table (Table of Isis), a 
bronze covered with hieroglyphics of doubtful 
character, supposed to have been manufactured in 
the reign of Adrian. ChampoUion identified several 
of the statues here in bis visit, 1824. The celebrated 
Turin papyrus is in a room on the second floor. 

2. — "Oallery of Painting* (open, 9 to 4) in fifteen 
rooms ; chiefly of the Italian and Flemish schools. 
The rooms are named after the principal painters 
and schools — as the Piedmont Room, ilaphael 
Room, <bc ; and the specimens number over 510. 
The best are in Room xiii. 

Among them are the following:— 
G. Ferrari's St Paul; Lowering of the Cross; 

Christ in the Clouds; St. Peter. 
Giovenone's Resurrection ; Virgin and Child. 
^a/fAaej'a MsdoDOA di Tenda, the original of wbicb 



Guido's St. Catherine. 

Guercino's Virgin and Child; Prodigal Son. 

G. Ruumno's Assumption ; God the Father. 

P. Veronese's Finding of Moscu; Christ and Mag- 
dalen. 

Ba'<Rano's Ra]>e oT the Sabines. 

C. Dolcl's Virgin. 

Gcntlloschi's Annunciation. 

Domenichino's Agriculture, Astronomy, nnd Archi- 
tecture. 

Titian's Paul IIL; Jourueyto Emmaus; Adora- 
tion of the Shepherds. 

Velasquez's Philip IV. 

Albano's Birth of Venus; Forge of Vulcan ; Ceres, 
Juno, and Flora; Four Elements, with god- 
desses, nymphs, cupids, <kc. 

Vandyck's Charles First's Children ; Virgin and 
Child; Princes of Savoy. 

Lely's Cromwell and his Wiffe. 

Holbein's Luth«*r and his Wife; Calvin. 

Rubens' Holy Family; Portrait of himself. 

Rembrandt's Rabbi ; burgomaster. 

Ravenstcin's Portraits. 

Wouverman's Battle-piece. 

Mabus's Christ on the Cross. 

G. Uow's Children Blowing Bubbles. 

Memling's Christ's Passion. 

Honthorst's Samson and the Philistines. 

P. Potter'M Cows in a Field. 

Snyder's Hunting the Stag. 

Borgognone's Battle-pieces. 

A. Dlirer's Lowering of the Cross. 

C. Lorraine's Landscapes. 

H. Vernet's Carlo Alberto (1834). 

There are many portraits and landscapes. &c., by 
Claude, G. Poussin, Teniers, Vandyck, &c., besides 
battlepleces and paintings on porcelain, by Con- 
stantino. 

UniverBlty-, in the Vlk C^ Po, founded 1465, 
and revived by Vittorio Amadeo in 1710, numbers 
about 2,000 students, under about eighty professors. 
It is a large, well-planned building, with an 
arcadcd court, ornamented with bas-reliefs, and 
inscriptions fixed in the walls; making part of a 
Lapidarlan Museum. Its Library numbers 200,000 
volumes, and 2,000 MSS., of which last 170 arc 
Hebrew, 870 Greek, 1,200 Latin, 220 Italian, 120 
French. Some of its palimpsests have been deci- 
phered by Peyron ; among the MSS. are Theodore t's 
Commentaries on the minor Prophets, an illumi- 
nated bible (from the sack of Rome, by the Con- 
stable Bourbon), an old Testament of the twelfth 
century, bede's Commentary on Luke of the same 
date, and the Imitation of Jesus Christ (called the 
Arona MS.) on vellum, beautifully ornamented 
with miniatures and paintings, Ac. Gardens.— 
OlardHno Reaie, near the Royal Palace; near this 
are the Zoological Gardens ; a\arc^no della Citta- 
delta, near the middle of the Via Garibaldi ; Nuovo 
Oiard\no PubUico, near the Po, reached by the 
Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II., and containing the 
Botanical Garden and the Castle 11 Valentino, used 
by the Folytecbnic SebooL 



Ddction 1.] 



TURIN — UNIVERSITT, HOSPITALS, SUPEBOA. 



tht AlberHna Academy of Fine Arts, in the Via 
delT Accademia Albertina, contains cnrtoonn by 
Oaudenzio Ferrari and others, nnd a small 
collection of pictures. Open 10 to 4, on payment 
of a fee. 

Museo Civico is near the Royal Gardens, and has 
a collection of ancient and modern sculptures and 
paintings, pottery, &c. Admission by fee, 50c. 

Muteo Industriale, near the Exchange, and the 
I«J!ge Hospital of St. John the Baptist. 

Behind the Royal Theatre is the Royal Military 
Academy, founded in the seventeenth century by 
Viltorlo Amadoo II., with a riding school, &c., 
attached. 

Philharmonic Society, schools for the blind, for 
the deaf and dumb, Ac. 

Hospitals, ftC — Among these are the follow- 
ing :— Hospital of St. John (8. Giov. Batta.) as old 
asthetourteenth century, with about 400 beds, and 
an anatomical school, founded by Carlo Alberto ; 
it is an immense building, in the Contrada del 
Ospedale. Hospital of St. Maurice and Lazarus 
(1673), for soldiers, &c.; Maniconico, or hospital 
for the insane (1728) ; Spcdalo della Matcrnitit, 
for lying-in women and infants ; Spedale di 
Carita. for children and the aged, in the Contrada 
del Po. A Reale Albcrgo dl Vertu (or House of 
Industry) was founded, 1680, for the benefit of the 
poor, and reviyed in 1851 ; its inmates work at 
varioiu trades. Ospedale S. Luigi Gonzaga (1794), 
for poor and incurables ; Mendicity Refuge, 
founded 1838; the Hetiro, founded, 1745, by Rosa 
GoTona, for poor girls who support themselves. 
There is a well-managed Monte di Pieth, or 
public pawn-shop, which sei*vcs as a loan fund. 

The Mole Antondliana, or Templo Vittoria 
Emmanuele II., is a singular and very lofty (over 
6W feet) tower-shaped building with a cupola and 
long spire, not far from the top of the Via Rossini. 

The Arsenal, near the Piazza d' Armi, was begun 
by Carlo Emmanuele I., and improved by Carlo 
£mmanuele III. It contains various trophies, a 
foundry, laboratory, plans of fortifications, school 
of metallurgy, and a cabinet of Natural History. 

In the Cemetery at the Campo Santo, beyond 
the town, Silvio Pellico and Massimo Azeglio are 
Iniried. 

The *Snperga is 4 miles distant, on a hill about 
2,000 feet above the sea. It is a striking object 
from any point, and consists of a college annexed 
to a circular church, with an octagon dome 60 feet 
in diameter, built by Oiuvara, in consequence of 
the vow of Vittorio Amadeo before the battle of 
1706, and his victory over the Fi-ench. It is regu- 
larly designed, with a portico, side towers, <kc., and 
la ** very cleverly arranged, so as to give size aud 
Importance to whnt otherwise would be a small 
ehnrch ; but in d<Ang this, the church and convent 
are to mixed vp together, that it is difticult to tell 
ythm ona begins and the other enda^^'—FtrgimoH. 



Many of the royal' family are buried here. In- 
cluding the founder, and his son Carlo;- also, 
Vittorio Emmanuele I., and Carlo Alberto, the late 
king, who died at Oporto, 1842. There are also 
marbles of Vittorio Amadeo 'making his vow, and 
the Birth and Assumption of the Yir^rin, with 
pictures by Ricci. At the foot of the hteps lead- i 
ing 10 the vault is a statue of the Angel of De^ith, I 
by Michnel Angelo. Jn the gallery of the college, ! 
from which the best view is obtained, are portraits \ 
of Vittorio Araadco on horseback, and all the 
Popes as far back as St. Peter and Jesus Christ. 

The best way to reach the Supcrga, from which 
there is a magnificent view, is by steam tramway 
starting from the Piazza Castello, and running 
through the town to the village of Sassi; thence 
by funicular railway to the top, tlie time is nearly 
1 hour, and there is no changing of carriages by 
the direct trains. No one should omit this visit 

The King h«8 country seats at Vtgna delta Regina, 
on a hill by the To, built by Vittorio Amadeo's 
son-in-law. Maurice (it contains a lovely Carlo" 
Dolce) ; at Stupinigi Forest, on the Sairone (4 miles' 
off), built by Giuvara and Alfieri. with a good park ; 
at Moncalieri (page 9), Rivoli, Ac. A Royal 
Riding Scliooi is at La Venaria (8 miles). 

The climate of Turin is hot in summer, and cold 
ill winter, and, on the whole, unfavourable to ih- 
valids, who are advised to be exceedingly careful. 
(See Introduction, pp. xxii. and xxiii.) 

It was at Turin that the French authorities 
arrested Forsyth, the traveller, in 1808. as a British 
subject, and sent him, with others, to Valenciennes. 

Among the natives of Turin (most of whom 
have statues here) are Lagrnnge, and Giobertif 
the famous priest, at one time (1848-9) Prime 
Minister, and author of the Primato Morale e (Hvile 
d Italia, advocating a free Italian confederation 
of states, under a free Pope; an idea which 
Pio None attempted to can-y out till he fell hack 
to the Jesuits. Giobertl returned to Turin, after 
several years* banishment, in 1848. Count C.Balbo 
followed up the efforts of Giobertl in his Sperama 
d Italia, and by the Risorgimento (Resurrection) 
newspaper, assisted by Cavour, Massimo d' Azeglio, 
and others. D' Azeglio, a painter, novelist, soldier, 
and statesman, all in one, was Prime Minister 
to Charles Albert, and afterwards governor of 
Lombardy. By the influence of these great men, 
the Statuto, or fundamental law of the kingdom, 
promulgated on 4th March, 1848, was preserved 
through the reactionary period, and constitutional 
government settled on a firm basis in Italy. 

Cavour'S Monument (hy Duprb of Florence), 
in Piuzza Carlo Emmanuele II. (or Carlina, now 
improved with new houses), was opened by the 
King in 1873. It consists of his statue, surroimded 
by allegorical symbols, and arm* <il "^'65&»5n. ^3*i«^. 

The coxaitrj waxA't^'^xv Ytf?AA 'cw^>o»x^^*«' 
and tViT«« cx«(^% o1 Yi«u wacajfiCv-s. 



nOTJTE 1. 

Bmaoleno, Hont Oanli, t 

■jid Uont OeniTTe. 



■■ 


m 


t 


[Bntiich to fiaMon- 
iiechK IQF Mont 
t;enliTnnne1,Mo. 
dune. Ac] 








o^Bn..ol.„„ 1. th. m, 



AlpisnuiO aUX.), wbere the 
;he plain, ii 



BlUMleno (Stat.) Here the Mont Cei 



^xifo.fuanilridbyAUH'iKtna. A imallUlDDipbal 

Tur B.C. 8. nniiliii. The CutlietlrBl of at. Juit it 
<a tho Iwcirth ecm..ry. Nut it li Che mined fort of 
Brnmtti,itamoli.h«iil)j'tlie French miTBB. The 
— V> here, "einweil to the fall farce of the Ban, 



from the Medlterrj 
Valim Alp,.} 

U Ki^ll>h"^l1'e> 
Bhonn. The diet 

E.UUt -.„! 

OulK 



ere rarelj ne 



7i Mont Oentrre ... 



AtBxUtBBlBHRHl.wl 

Into Italy. Popnlvloii, 1 

Oulr(8tat)i»a,ii» i 



el tftrotiffh the Alpt, ft i 



t^on. SSO), about wa feet higher, 



ih the palhs (rum Serrl^tei 

IM feet high. 

^>llaw1a|: the road, yon i 



BrliuigoD. 

nyra 



(See Bradi/iaa'l Band-Betk to 

HOTTTE S- 
Piuerolo uid Ui« WKldauasB' at 
VkodolB OoniLtTy. 



Hldieiilno (8iai)li near the royal foroBt and 


Alraaca (bXaX.): frc 
ne^toVigOne.c„..tln 


m here there Ij a branch 
ad to SalualO {pas* 8), 
Cuneo(paB^8), 


Pinerolo (Stat,>, or 
Uetonulnn*. Agarriso 
province of tbe eatnc n 


ill 


ale priwn.Li which th 
•..hut up. The Una 



a bandMma c 

Qlllv, Oeiieral Be 
Vaudols. ffofcf:! 
(po|iu]aCMn 3,tm 



ckwltb. and other 



uBica. which rlMB In Col d'Allricni 
. 30 mDea each way. The pHn- 
neil lo La Tom (or Idt Toot da 



LoMme). 11* at. Olonnol. Ahetc 
TitUro. PamsnlM. St. Mntilno, V 
Perem. Bich yUlago has s cturc 



Tbc parlicDlArB of Ihene perK 



>, BTO, 7 

H.OXTTB S. 

TnTla to Baluno uid MonU VUo, OnnM, 

Batlu of TaUlarl, am dl Ttnda, and MiM. 



tbc Vandalfl'" Under lh« iprfltcnt equal lyalein all 






Que fo acpia lorn cur sou si ilen« lep." 

ThaCli. "O.Brethrcii.heBranDblelegton. W( 

ought often to irsccli and pray. Eleven bni'dml 

Tbfre la lonio tine scenery lu the nelghbrmhcod. 
of I>B Teire. wli h views of tlie nelirhlHiui'liiE Alps 
..jouiMsenddibo"")" 

BobblO. which Is I.ejg tect sboTc sea level 
<popDlntion. 3,3Su). Al Cul de la Cit>li Is nn 
erabaiikment on ihe PelUce. erected with a grant 

Ibe French Id 1«SB^S0. Froin''ta^itce"lt"ls A 

pTMpect of Uonte \iao- 

Fnjm P!nen4o, up the Val de Feruuae an 
PraB:elM, on the Clnsone. It U U miles to 

leMalmaBgloquarrleiof 



Oym 



folio*;— 



Id aalui: 



{lirnnchloUiinaKa 



Jnnch^s'SVr^' 

Ale»audr]iif MoDdorti 
and to Bavona.] 

Koneallerl (Stat.) Or UmtasittH (popuia- 

:inge of Italy. li> a castle restoied by VIltorM 



TroArello (Stat.), popnlatlon, l.ais. w 

VUlaateUous 
Garlgiiaiu),°i 



Oarmasnola (Stat.) . 



ta Marin, con tain* 
wn, once of Im- 



lug 






CaTBlleniutcKlore (Stab) Popnisi 

[Here a bra..ch rsll of J mile, leads ig 
BriL, or BrJ^ St. Vlttotia (Stat.)-. 



er Tan.roi 
I off. 



la Fenlktre to Soaa, Eoclng 



in Bra to SaTOna, Ibe ilalloni by tbs new 
.cUore'ciisraaciXp^piilBtiun, II.«iK).wber< 



MkA»nnAM*B ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



of these two pUicei(), sneHa C9Ta, Sale, St. 
Giuseppe de Cairo (where the line from 
AlcsMindria through AOQUi comes in>-See Route 
4), BantuarlO. and Sayona (page 2I), which is 
reached throogh a tunnel in the Apennines.] 

Savlgllano (Stat.), on the Macra. Popnla- 
tion, 17,000. A town containing two churches, a 
theatre, the Tafflni Palace (painted hy Molineri or 
Carracino), and a triumphal arch erected when 
Vittorio Amadeo married Christine of France. 

[Here the branch line of 10 miles turns off, vid 
Lacrnasco, to 

SalUSIO (Stat) Population, 16,000. 

Hotel: Corona Grossa. 

It is the capital of a province, formerly the 
Marqaisate of Saluzzo. and a fief of Dauphin^, 
whieh Henry IV. exchanged for La Bressa, Ac. 
The old castle, now a penitentiary, commands a 
Ane view. The Cathedral, built 1480, was re- 
•tored in 1844, and contains pictures by Mulinari, 
a natira. Monument to Silvio PelHco, bom 
here 1788. Ftom this jrou ascend the Po, to 

Paesana, 14 miles, a fine spot, 1,778 feet high, 
whence a path over the hills leads to La Torre, in 
the Vaudois country. Population, 6,467. The 
•eenery improves at San Chiaflteddo, where the 
September lesta attracts a large gathering, and 
also at 

CrlSSOlO (population, 1,085), 8 miles, the highest 
village in the valley of the Po (4,544 feet), and a 

food station for miucing the ascent of Monte Viso. 
he scenery is of an Alpine character. Within a 
abort distance are Jm Balma di Rio Martino, a 
Celebrated stalactite cavern, in the dolomite; the 
Ool del Poreo, 9,604 feet high ; the Piano del R^, 
the largest of the head streams of the Po; and 
Monte Meidassa, 10,991 feet high. 

The CoL DKLLA Tbavxbsettb, 7| miles from Cris- 
solo, on the shoulder of Monte VIso, in the boundary 
between Dauphin^ and Piedmont. It commands 
a view as far as Milan in fine weather. Delow the 
•rest is a remarkable Tuntul^ cut in 1480 by the 
Marquis of Saluzso, to open an easier communica- 
tion with Daophin^, at the height of 9,500 feet. It 
if generally filled with snow down to July. From 
this point there is an easy descent by the old 

Bived way, down the valley of the Oull, to Mont 
auphin (86 miles) and Embrun. Abritfs, the first 
village in France, is five hours from the foot of the 
mountain. 

Monte VUOf the ancient Mom VesuJw, In the 
Cottian Alps, rises tier on tier, to the height of 
about 1:1,640 feet. It was thought to be inaccessible 
till ascended by two members of the Alpine Club, 
in 1861, and again in 1862; in both cases from the 
Val di Vallanta, on the south side, above Sampeyre. 
The whole range, of the Western Alps from Pro* 

Japea to Monta Boaa it visibl«. In 1889, Profastor 
D. Forbes mada the eomplata tour of the moun- 
M*ja Jj9 a hard day's walk of 14 hours; a most 
^ffr^*^^0xeaj9Joa. (Bee Bail'b Outde to the 



The next station to Savigliano, on the main line, is 

Foseano (Stat.), on the Stura, and so called 
from Fonte Sano. Population, 17,000. It has 
remains of a castle and old \^alls. 

[Hence there is a railway to Mondovi, and over 
the hills to Savona, on the Riviera di Ponente of 
the Mediterranean. 

MondOTl (Stat.), on the branch rail from 
Oarru to Cuneo (below), is a city (pop., 18,000), 
and capital of a province, 1,986ft. above sea, 
celebrated for a French victory in 1 796. It has a fort 
in the old town, or Piazzi, with a large Cathedral. 
The fine cavern of Bossea, near here, accessible by 
carriage to Frabosa, is much visited. 

Oeya (Stat.), on the Tanaro. Population, 4,520. 
Hence by wayof Mille8llDO(about l,A50feethigh), 
on the Bormida, where the French beat the Aas- 
trians, 1796, and Altare, on the north slope of the 
Apennines, and Cadibona, at their summit, you 
come to Savona, on the sea, 80 kils. from Mille- 
simo. (See Route 9). Savonamay be now reached 
by railway direct from Turin (as above). From 
Ceva there is a way, vid Garezza (18 miles), and 
Ormea (7 miles), to the Col de Nava (2,480 feet 
high), and thence to Pieve (13 miles), down the 
Arrosia, to 

OnegUa (20 miles), on the Riviera. (See 
Route 9).] 

From Fossano, following the main Una, up the 
Stura, the only station of importance is 

CUNEO, or Oonl (Stat.), 

At the Junction of the Gesso with the Stura. 

Hotel: Barra di Ferro. 

A bustling town (population, 29,000), at the ter- 
minus of the line, and in the further comer of the 
valley of the Po, strongly fortified down to the 
battle of Marengo, when its walls were razed by 
the French, 1800. It has a cathedral, two churches, 
and a theatre. The Maritime Alps and Monte Viso 
are in view. A branch to MondOTl (above) was 
opened 1888. There is a i>hort line to B0C(^e- 
baldL From Cuneo, it is 15 milo^to the 

Bathe of Valdlerl, up the Gesso, 4,226 feet high. 
An omnibus runs thither daily. The accommoda- 
tion consists of an ^tablissement de bains, well 
appointed, frequented mostly by the Pledmontese. 
Tlie waters are hot and cold, sulphureous, and saline, 
but the most singular curative agent is a crypto- 
gamic plant, which grows in the hot springs at a 
temperature ofl35*, and forms a gelatinous mass, 
very useful in hot applications to the body for in- 
ternal complaints, old wounds, kc. The Oesso di 
Entracque was a favourite resort of Victor Enunan- 
uel, for chamois hunting; and many beautiful and 
rare flowers are seen. 

Rail from Cuneo to Limone, 90 miles, in 1| to 
8 h«>urs. Theaee diilgance to Nice in about 
ICIiours. 

The first placa is Bottt, then 

BoirgO 8. Dalmano^ a small townCpopulatioii, 
4,054), at the foot of tha mountain. Thenca to 




alwnl U mllx lonf, with tiKtrlc'llEhllne, iind 
mnUa tbs ■loant of tb* Col. TbroBib tb« TulltT 
of tbe Kulfc to 
TendK {popalstlon. 1,;S4). An old caKle of 

Tta« K«ncr7 la romtntle, fitpecLilly aboatlbfldeHlQ 
at Saor^o. on the Boji, whlcli tumu Ihe Freticb 
bonoda^ down to VflntloiIiflU, since the aunoxji- 
Hon at the eonntrj of Kloe. 
OU&doIa or Ootpal, near tha Col do Bronli, 



From Turin (poM 0, tha flrwl rtitlon Ii 
Honcallen (Stat.), popUBtlon. lO.OOO. and 

TrofM-ello (Scat.). popDlst Ion, l,24£, wo 

o Ihe north ore in Hew, wlui gltmpics of tho 
*"^liino Alps. The coanlry on both ildes 1> part 
•i (no old AlarqDlaate Dl Hontforret, which luorfed 

CIIieTl(p^ulatlan.li,a«l).wllblti large Ootbls 
ihurch of Santa Harla dolk Scala. An uid place, 

A*tl (8U,t.l, <hc anclont jiiata Pongiela. on tho 
'anaro.ntltjconflucncc with tho Borbore. PopnU- 
Ion. sa.DW. Branch linen lo Alba (Routo S). and 
a Caul* (Ronte S) and Ullan. 

A'ffleri.- Alberta Renle; Leone d'Oro. 

TUilsthacaplIolof a proiiiico. and the centto 

InlT. the Vino d^Aitl'bDlb red" and g^rltlln''K 
fblte: It Is alio notod for trafflca and allk goodi, 

Amone Ihe bDllrtlnxsnro thela^« GoIhlcCathe- 
ral, on tho efta of a Templo of Diana, bnlll 
MB, with paindnge hrCarlonl, Poizi. Ac.j the 
ninrcheeofS. Pleira In Concava a^ d 3. Seconda 

ad Alflcri PulKccs. lii'ihe last of which A'JIeH. Ihe 



rldga. thaCaldeBnuSitDOfecthlgh, Tbeneit 

BaBZ«Iia,iHithePaellone. PopnlatlcD, 9.W0. 
HlM (SUt.) (Boe BraiMaa; lland-Boot to 

Turin to Aleii^ndrla and denoa. 



^H ,....!'. "„"_ ,"..7. *,"^j„g, ijj 



o Camlt 

Feiiuaso (Btat), 



ALESSANDKU (Bt&t), 
: of vnrloui llnca which »ri 
via, Milnn. Pricenia. nud Ac< 




lUliiano 

Bf nil, annmenced In 1B4B. and opened IfaronEb- 
initIniaH,>taeinti>f»liiiinioni«ertliiE. Time, 



'iZ«i' 



thnmgh the Apcni 



fornlnltaly.lhongrbnochlnghntihaG 
bsilt Ills, by VlitoT* Anadeo II, i 
foitiflcaclomaddad b7NftpDlean,haTlDg DFonn 



10 



BRADBHAW'b ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



is often inundatedby the rain, and can be put under 
water by the sluicesof the Citadel. A n«-w covered 
bridge crosses the Tanaro. The Citadel, like the 
houses, is built of brick, and its ramparts serve as 
a promenade, for the April and October fairs, when 
a good deal of business is done. Considerable pnfns 
have been taken to strengthen this fortress. The 
other buildings are a Cathedral (Parodies statue of 
St. Joseph); S. Lorenzo^s Church, with its paint- 
ings by the Pozzi; Town House, Theatre, Hospital, 
and the Ghilino Palace, belonging to the King, 
and erected by Al fieri. 

** I chanced to pass (says Count Arrivabene) 
through Alessandria, so full of glorious recollec- 
tions for a Bonaparte, on the day on which Louis 
Napoleon made his entry In 1859. Triumphal 
arches had been thrown across the streets. At the 
gate of Porta Marengo, which leads to the famous 
field of battle, made illustrious by the First Consul, 
an arch had been erected, on which was emblazoned 
In tri-coloured letters,— Tb the descendant of the 
Conqueror of Marengo. Victor Emmanuel had gone 
to meet the Emperor. The gay and busy appear- 
ance of Alessandria at that time contrasted 
singularly with the stem severity of its old 
palaces and half decayed mediaeval churches.*' 

Ratazzi, the statesman, was bom at this town, 
and a bronze statue of him was erected in 1883. 

MARENGO, 

The site of the battle which Bonaparte lost 'and 
won, 14th June, 1800, is 2^ miles east, on the wide 
plain of 8. Giuliano, dotted with willows. At three 
o'clock, he was beaten by the Austrians, and their 
old Oenernl, Melas, had come to Alessandria after 
sending off news of his victory; when, atthiscrisis, 
Dessaix arrived with 6,000 fresh troops, attacked 
the enemy, and, though mortally wounded, turned 
the day. Kellerman. by a brilliant charge of his 
cavalry, cut the Austrian Infantry in two, drove 
their cavalry in flight to the Bormida, and took 
Zach, who was left in authority, prisoner. The 
total Austrian loss was 12,000 ; and that of the 
French, 7,000; but the Convention of Alessandria, 
a few days later, put them in possession of all 
North Italy. A building has been erected on the 
■ite, which contains a Museum of every object of 
interest found on the field of battle. 

For the rails to Novara, Pavia, and Milan, and 
to Piacenza see page 11, and Routes 14 and 15. 

CFtom AlOSSandria, a branch rail ascends the 
Bormida, following the track of the Via Aurelia 
Posthuma, to Acqul and Savona. The stations 

are: — 

Miles. 

Borgoratto 7 

Sezzfe 10 

Strevi 

Acqui 

Ponti 80 



17* 
2ll 



Miles. 

Spigno 38 

Rocchetta 47^ 

S.Giuseppe de Cairo 52| 
Santuario 62 



Savona 65| 

ACQUI (Stat), 
On the Bormida, is the Roman Aequo: Statiellce^ so 
ca/Jed /roai tAe tribe ot 8tAi\e\\\, whose town it 
»rM^ Miidrrom tbc hot mineral sprlngB which are 



still found usefiil in curing gout, rheumatism, 
paralysis, Ac. Population, 10,000. There are some 
arches of an aqueduct, with a cathedral of the 
twelfth century, and a theatre. 

In the middle ages Acqui was the capital of 
Upper Montferrat; a district rich in corn, wine, 
silk, cattle, Ac, and giving name to the coufltry 
dance, called Montrcdina. 

Passing Bistagno, where the two heads of the 
Bormida join, follow the road for 28 miles, to 

DegO, where Bonaparte beat the Allies, in 1796, 
after defeating them at Montenotte, near the Col of 
that name, higher up, over which the old road to 
Savona used to pass, until superseded by a more 
eisy one, constructed in 1800, between AUare and 
Cadibona. By this the descent of the Apennines is 
made to the Riviera and Savona, about 25 miles 
from Dego. 

But the most direct way to Savona, now, is by 
the rail as above, which falls into the main line 

from Turin, at s. Giuseppe de Cairo (Stat.), 

as in Route 3. For Savona see page 21.] 

Leaving Alessandria, the next station on the 
main line, is 

FTugarolO (Stat.), population. 2,494, near 
which is the once richly endowed Benedictine 
Abbey of Bosco, with sculptures byM. Angelo; 
but the country is flat and dull. 

Novl (Stat.) Under tlic north side of the 
Apennines, is a retreat for the Genoese merchants 
in autumn, and commands from its old tower and 
country houses a fine prospect of the distant Alps. 
Population, 11,450. 

Hotel: La Slrcna. 

Its white silk is of excellent quality. Here the 
French were defeated by the Austrians and 
Russians, in 1796, and General Joubert killed. 

From Novi, before the railway was made, the 
old road went over the Ligurian Apennines, by the 
Col della Bochetta, past Gavi and Voltaggio, and a 
succession of gorges and ravines. The highest 
part of the Col is about 2,500 feet above the level 
ot the Mediterranean. It was crossed by the 
French in 1796. The Valley of Polcevcrra, 
between this and the sea, a wild and desolate spot 
till reclaimed by the Genoese, is now covered with 
gloves of chestnut, ilex, arhutus, vineyards, 
gardens, and country houses, though it is apt to 
suffer from floods. The railway from Novi passes 
Serravalle (Stat.), and begins to enter the 
mountains. 

ArQiiata (Stat.)* population, 2,795, with ruins 
of a large castle, imposingly situated. Here the 
tunnels or galleries, and viaducts, for penetrating 
the ApenilllieB, commence. The scenery is very 
romantic. As far as Ronco the line passes a 
succession of embankments, tunnels, and viaducts 
over torrents and gorges. The Scrivia is crossed 
and re-crossed, and there are eleven tunnels in all 
between Ronco and Genoa. The rise from Aless- 
andria to Arquata is 293 yards. The fall to 
Genoa is considerably greater. 

ISOla del Cantone (Stat), with a fineTladact. 



Bonte 5.] 



MASXHOO, Hon, 



Owing to the inconyenience of the extremely 
steep grades between RonCO and Genoa, a new 
line was opened from the former place in 1889, 
which, after passing through the great tunnel, 
Jutit beyond Ronco, which is over fire niiles long, 
trarerses the Polccverra Valley, on the Mediter- 
ranean side of the mountains. Here, as elsewhere, 
strong embankments are used to protect the rail 
from the effects ol the torrents. MlgnanegO and 
8. QulriCO stations are now passed, and the 
valley, hitherto narrow, opens out, and villa 
residences of the Genoese are scattered about on 
the bills. The traveller now finds himself in a 
new and Italian climate, under which oranges, 
peaches, apricots, and myrtles flourish in early 
spring, with a sunny, cloudless sky. 

8. Pier d'Arena (Stat.) Population, 19,i!00. 
A handsome church, the Spinola, Sauli, and other 

r laces, and a tobacco factory. Then by the 
Laszaro Tunnel, or gallery, tmder Monte S. 
Benig^o, to the suburb of Delia Grazie, and the 

Genoa terminus, close to Piazza Acquaverde. 
(See Route 9.) 

AlessandTla to Fiacenza. 



Miles. 

*7ortona ....m... 18} 

Fontecurone 19| 

Toghera 24} 

CBranch to Pavia 

and Milan]. 

Casteggio „, 29{ 



Miles. 

S. Giulietta ...„. ... dS 

Broni 871 

Stradella « 40 

Arena Po 42| 

SanNicolb SH 

Piacenza 60^ 



Leaving Alessandria, the line passes through 
part of the battlefield of Marengo (see page 10) 
and crosses the Servia to 

Tortona (Stat.) Population, 13,218. A 
bishop's see, on a hill in a fertile plain, with a 
cathedral, dating from the latter half of the six- 
teenth century. It contains an ancient bas-relief 
of the downfall of Pbat'ton, with inscriptions 
in Greek. It was the ancient Dertona, and joined 
the Lombard League. Here a branch to Novi, on 
the main line towards Genoa, falls in. Across the 
Cnrone to 

Ponteonrone (Stat.) PopuiaUon, 2,579. 

Voghera (Stat.) Population, 18,201. — 
Another bishop's see, and the ancient Vievs Iriae^ 
near the borders of the old Duchy of Piacenza. 
It was bought of the Pozzo family by Carlo 
Kmmanucle I., and is now in the province of 
Pavia. The cathedral is a good building of the 
MYenteenth centnry,andhas paintings by S. Crcspi. 

OasteggiO (Stat.), population, 8,214, near 
the Coppin, a branch of the Po. The ancient 
Clastidium^ a Roman town burnt by Hannibal, 
whose name is perpetuated in one of the town 
fountains. At Montebello, between Voghera and 
Casteggio, to the south of the line, Lannes fought 
the battle of 9th June, 1800, against the Austrians, 
from which he acquired the title of Duke of 
Mootehello. 



11 



8. Giulietta (Stat), 

Broni (Stat.), population, 4,814, and 

Stradella (Stat.), population. 7,200, all 

stand in a well cultivated though flat country, 
planted with mulberry trees. The borders of the 
old Duchy of Parma are close by. 

[Short line to Pavia, 20 miles. Tramway to 
Voghera.] 

Arena Po (Stat.), population, 3,426. 

San NICOI6 (Stat.), near which Hannibal de- 
feated the Romans at Trebbia, and 

FiacenzC (Stat.), at the junction with the 
main line towards the south. (Sec Route 15.) 

Turln to OhlyasBo, Vercelli, Valenza, 
Noyara, Magenta, and Milan. 

By rail, as follows : — 



Miles. 

Settimo 10^ 

Brandizzo .......... 16 

Chivasso 18i 

Torazza 22 

Salnggia 2d 

Livomo Vercellese 29| 

Tronzuno 85| 

Santhili 87 

San Germano 40} 



Miles. 

Vercelli 49} 

Borgo Vercelli ... 52} 

Ponzana 56| 

Notara (Buffet) ... 62 

Trecate 68| 

Magenta 76^ 

Vittuone 80 

Rho 86 

Milan 98^ 



This route follows the north side of the Po, as 
far as Chivasso, and is at the foot of the Alps all 
the way. 

Leaving the terminus, the Soperga is seen on the 
right, and after crossing the Stura. we reach 

Settimo (Stat.) or Settimo Torinese (popu- 
lation, 8,664), the Roman Ad Septimam, at the 
seventh mile from Augusta Taurinorum. A short 
branch goes off to BlyarolO (Stat.), 14 miles; 
connected by omnibus service with the neigh- 
bourhood; see page 16. Cross the Oreo before 
reaching 

CMvaSBO (Stat.) Population, 8,781.— An old 
place, formerly the seat of tlie Marquises of Mont- 
ferrat, whose ruined Castle is here, with a church of 
the fifteenth century. The fortifications were 
razed by the French in 1804. Good lampreys 
here. Here the rail to Ivrea and Aosta, and the 
routes to Mount Iseran and the back of Mont 
Blanc, are taken. (See Route 6.) At two miles 
distance are the sulphur baths of S. Genesio^ with 
a good hotel. 

[Branch line, 80| miles, down the Po, to Casale. 
The tirst p<ace of any importance is 

Crescentino, l*^ miles, after crossing the Dora 
Baltea. There are Roman remains neurit. Popu- 
lation, 2.800. On ilie opposite side of the Po is 

Vcma (population, 2,850). on a hill; once forti- 
fied, but dismantled by the French. 

1^:lnO, 11 miles, in a tmct of low, swaropy^mea.- 
dow land ; has a population. vA^ ^^^..^ss^.V^Vwass^'w 
for its catUc «iti^Yv«xiv%. 



13 



BBAt)SHAW*8 ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



CASALE (Stat.). 

The capital of the province and old Marqulsate of 
Montferrat, and a ttrong military post, containing 
the ancient Casah, or fortified house of the family, 
from which it sets its name, and the Orologio 
Tower. It stnnds on the cross rail between Ales- 
sandria and Vercclll. Population, 17,096. Many 
Jews are established here, and there is a good 
tiade in sillc-twist, wine, and rice. Among the 
public buildings are the Duomo, or Cathedral, in 
the Lombard style of the tenth century, with G. 
Ferrari's Baptism of Christ and tlie statue of 
Bernini; Santa Caterina's Church and itspalntings ; 
8. Domenica, founded by the Palaeologus family, 
whose tomb is here; a theatre, prefettura. college, 
and Fome old palaces, including Delia Valle, which 
has some of G. Romano's frescoes. Railways to 
Vercelli, Valcnza, Asti,Mortara, Milan, Pavia, and 

Alessandria. ^ ^ ^. ^ t 

A line from Casale, across the Po, through flat, 
unhealthy, rice fields, to Mortaxa (popula- 
tion, 6,844), on the cross rails from Novara to 
Alesfandrla, and from Pavia to Vercclll. From 
Mortara to VlgevanO (population, 18,684), 
which has a Gothic cathedral and old castle. 
Cross the Ticino to Abbiategrosso, In Lom- 
bardy; thence to Milan. 
About 10 miles south-west of Casale, on the line 
to Afti, is ^ ^^^ ^. 

Moncalvo (Stat.), population, 4,007, the 
birth-place of Caccla, the painter, some of whose 
works are at the Franciscan Convent. About 
IS miles from Moncalvo Is Asti, see page 9.] 

After Chivasso, on the Milan Railway, we cross 
the Dora Baltca. On the right of the Po Is Montea 
del Po, the site of the Roman Industria, on a hill, 
and soon after Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn 
come Into view In the Alps on the left. 

At Leri, near this, was the country seat of 
Cavour, to which he retired upon his resignation 
in 1859; though he continued to advise the men 
in power, and to answer the telegraphic despatches 
sent to him dally from all parts oi Italy. He rose 
at S a.m., and after despatching letters, went 
to his farm, and there received visitors, or con- 
sulted with the numerous able and patriotic men 
who from him learnt to guide the destinies of 
Italy. 

Santhi^L (Stat.) Population, 5,065. Here a 
railway of 18 miles runs up the side of the hills to 
Blella in 1 hour, passing Salussola and three 
other stations. (See Route 7.) , 

VERCELLI (Stat) 

The ancient Vereellae, on the River Sesla. Popu- 
lation. 29,000. 

Hotels: Leone d'Oro; Posta; Tre Re. 

This Is a very ancient town of Cisalpine Gaul, 
near which Marlus defeated tlie Clmbri, 101 B.C. 
It Is now somewhat decayed, and stands among 
unhealthy rice flehls, at the junction of tho Cerro 
with the Sesla, with a fine prospect of the Alpa. 
^»ff J?iecfj7uf. baUt by P. Rlbaldi in the sixteenth 
c»iifmyr, jr/tA s vestibule added by AlSeri, was 



restored in 1828. Here Is a Tery ancient ▼ellura 
MS. of the Gospels In Latin, by Euseblua, Bishop 
of Vercelli In the fourth century; It Is bound In 
sliver. The chun hes of 8t. Crlstoforo, Santa 
Caterlna, and S. Bernardino, have frescoes by 

The old Church of Santa Maria Maggiore lyis a 
cuilous mosaic pavement; S. Andrea is an old 
Lombardo-Gothic bul'dlng, founded In 1219-22, by 
Cardinal Blcchlcri, Papal legate to King John of 
England, with a detached bell tower, or campanile. 
The doors and windows are round-headed, but the 
pointed arch appears in the nave. It is said to bo 
nearly the oldest specimen of this style In Italy, 
ar-d to have been designed by an Eugllshman— 
Brlgwithc, the arrangement being similar to 
BuiidwHS and Klrkstall Abbeys. There are a 
town house, theatre, large old hosplUl; the Tlzzlnl, 
Motta, AslgUano, and Gattlnara palaces, with 
pictures and frescoes ; a statue of Cavour; and the 
Victor Emmanuel pillar. 

In 1869, as early as the 6th of March, General 
Gyulal, the Austrian commander, had concentrated 
numerous troops here, on the right bank of the 
Sesla, thus threatening the line of the Dora-Baltea 
and the town of Toreo; they also occupied Trlno 
and Gattlnara, with the intention of getting pos-^ 
session of Turin by a coup de main. In this they 
were frustrated by the concentration of the allied 
French and Sardinian armies, and after wastlng^ 
time In useless and feeble demonstrations they 
were compelled to retreat, and the campaign was 
lost to them. They were also defeated at Palestro, 
a small village three miles east of Vercelli, which 
slopes down towards the Sesla, and had been 
strongly fortified by the Austrian genernl, Zobel, 
on 80th May. It was held by a Bohemian dlvhlon 
and two battalions of Tyrolese sharpshooters, with 
twenty field pieces and four howltasers. The 
ground being still muddy, from the rain of th© 
previous night, it was difficult to take tho position 
by assault. However, after a hard fight of two 
hours and a halt, it was carried at the point of the 
bayonet; and the Austrians were routed, and com- 
pelled to retreat on Uobblo and Mortara, with the 
loss of two guns and many killed and wounded. 
Thus tht Ir "first battle was their first ylctory," as 
Victor Emmanuel announced to his army in his 
order of the day. Zohel attempted to retake 
Palestro the day after, but was again thoroughly 
beaten, the king himself leading the attacking 
column In the thick of the action. Several of the 
officers of his staff were wounded. Bis heroism 
made such an impression on the third regiment of 
Zouaves that they elected him their corporal, an 
horour similar to that paid to Bonaparte after the 
battle of Montenotte. 

[Here a railway branches off to Valenzai and 
Alessandria, 86 mUes. The stations are : — 



MUes. 

AtigUano 6 

Pertengo 7| 

Balsola lOi 

Casale 14| 



Miles. 
Borgo S. Martlno... ]8|r 

GUrblc 21* 

Valenza 36| 

Alessandria 8ft 



Bonte 6.] 



CASALS, VERCBLLI, NOYARA, MAGEKTA. 



13 



At Yalenza it joins the line from Milan to Ales- 
MmdrU.] 

After pawing Borgo Vercelli f Stat.), popn- 
Uaon 8,M0, and Ponsana (Stat.), iu a wide 
rioe level, in full view of Monte Rosa, we reach 

NOVARA (Stat.). 
On ahiU by the River Agogna. Population, 83,000. 

ffota*: Italia: della Villa. 

This ancient town, the Roman Novaria, once 
forttted by 2 miles of ramparts, still retains some 
remnants of its walls and towers. The Duomo 
was an early Lombard building, on the site of 
a basilica or temple, but it has been much altered 
in the course of restoration. The portico which 
replaces the atrium contains several inscriptions; 
in the vestibule is the monument of C. Solari, or 
Gobbo. The baptistery is eight-sided and crowned 
with a dome. Within are Thorwaldsen's Angels (at 
the altar), and paintings by G. Ferrari, Bordonc, 
Ac. St. Gaudenzio's Church, rebuilt in the tenth 
century by P. Pellegrini, bas frescoes, Ac, by 
Ferrari, Caccia, &c. At S. Pictro al Rosario and 
8. Marco are works by Procaccini and others. 

The Palazzo di Giustizia was built 1346. The 
Bellini, Leonardi, Giovanetti, and Falcone Palaces 
are worth notice. Other builtings are the large 
market; the theatre, near Marchesi's statue of 
-Carlo Emmanuele III; a Jar»!e Hospital; and 
Statues of Carlo Alberto ancHUavour. 

Bossi, the historian, and Prina, Napoleon's min- 
ister at Milan (who was murdered, 1814), were 
natives of Novara. It is memorable for the battle 
of 33rd March, 1849, in which Radetzky, with 
80,000 men and 200 guns, defeated Charles Albert, 
whose forces numbered on?y about half as many, 
with the loss of 10,000 killed and wounded. This 
defeat led to the king's abdication ihe same even- 
ing, in the presence of his sons and generals, in 
favour of Victor Emmanuel, then Duke of Savoy. 
He left the country immediately with only one 
servant, and returned to Oporto, where he died 
iSth July, 1849. Several of his predecessors had 
abdicated in like manner, among whom were Vic- 
tor Amadous, iu 1730 ; Charles Emmanuel IV., in 
1802 ; and Victor Emmanuel I., in 1829. 

It is also celebrated for the victory gained by the 
Sardinians and French Zouaves over theAustrians, 
31 St May, 18fi9, which obliged them to retreat into 
liOmbardy. 

From Novara a Ihie (opened 1883) passes through 
Fara, Romagnano, Grignasco, fcc, to VarallO 
(page 17). Another short line runs to BustO- 
ArslZlO, about 4 miles from Gallarate on the 
Milan-Litveno line. 

[The line fr<»ra Mortars, Ac., falls in at Norara, 
and is continued to Arona, 23 miles further, see 
Route 8. From Novara, Lake Orta may be reached 
by a branch rail through Gozzano. This line is 
continued through Gravellona-Toce to Domo 
d'Ossola, see page 19.] 

The next station to Novara is 

Trecate (population 6,308), a small town; after 
whkhthe Ticioo, the old bonndary of Sardinia and 



Austrian Lombardy, is crossed by a viaduct, not 
far from the Ponte Nuovo Bridge for the post road, 
1,000 feet long, on eleven stone arches, begun by 
the French, 1810, and finished, 1827. The Austrians 
tried to blow it up in 1859, on their retreat, before 
the battle of Magenta. After this comes the Na- 
viglio Grande, a canal of the thirteenth century, 
cut IVom Lago Maggiore to Milan; then follows 

MAGENTA (Stat.) 
Population, 6,050. The ancient Maxentia, the site 
of the famous battle of 4th June, 1859; with a 
monument to mark the spot, erected in 1872. The 
position of the Austrians is described by Count 

"If, on crossing the Ticino, we place ourselves 
at the extremity of the BrMge of Buffalora, the 
heights on which the hamlet of Buffalora stands 
are on our left, the Ponte Nuovo of Magenta in the 
centre, and the 'old bridge to our right. We see 
that the ridge which formed the Austrian position 
is a soi*t of bow, whose arrow would be the road. 
On each side of this road the ground is covered 
with cornfields, vineyards, and groves of trees, and 
intersected by several streams which pour their 
waters into the meadows where rice is cultivated. 
Robechetto, Castelleto, Induno, Santo Stefano, 
Bi:rffalora(popu'ation 1,260), Magenta, Robccco^ 
all villages or small boroughs, of greater or less 
importance — are seen amidst that splendid scenery ; 
some relieved against the background of the Alps, 
which litt their majestic heads on the far horizon. 
In the vallev, the road is elevated 20 or 30 feet 
above the fields, and rises still higher on its ap- 
proach to the eastern slopes. Finally it reaches 
the table-land of the Lombard side, un the border of 
which is carried the Naviglio Grande, whose waters 
run almost parallel with the Ticino. On approach- 
ing this plateau, the railway is seen emerging from 
the bank, about half a mile to the right." 

This well chosen position of the Austrians could 
only be approached by the central road above 
mentioned, the railway on the right, or by a road 
somewhat to the left, towards Buffalora; and could 
not be commanded at any point. The Austrians 
had 89,000 against 133,000 French ; but the French 
had to cross a river to got at them. Gyulai's head- 
quarters were at Abbiate Grosso with his left 
wing; his right was at Magenta, and main body 
between Abbiate Grosso and Robccco. His object 
was to cut off the French from the bridges of San 
Martiuo and Buffalora, and to isolate those who 
had crossed the Ticino. On the 4th the French had 
no definite knowledge of the position of the 
Austrians. MacMahon with his corps and the 
Sardinian army marched trora Turbigo on to Buf- 
falora; Canrobert advanced by the right branch 
towards the Bridge of Buffalora, and Niel was 
ready to join from Trecate. 

Buffalora Bridge was the ccntrol point, where 
the French laid a pontoon bridge close to a stone 
one which had been partly destroyed by the 
Austrians. It was held for many hourv b«fc«:\ 
Niel and CMao\>«\«»xaa^Nii >e»a.%Vos5iwetfi^^^k»swx 



Bridge at Msgcnis : 





Inpiwe 


■c defended by CUm, z^bp 


and ulhor A 






t AtS 


ni. the AuitrUns hnd ili 


(cin brleadci 


orM>,« 


slrons. round thlj pgliit. 


At Icn^h HdcMiiI 


an, Joined by Eiplnaiie, m 


tacked llu 




the An«rlan line bctwre 


MsBenl. ai. 


Ponte 


Nnovo. Tbe tUla^e wa 


Jtornied ond 


carried. 


tbough defended lueh I.) 


inch bj- the Anitrlan 


who were obliged to fiv 


way. Gynla 




laiteflbrtlo retake imifii 


lora Bridge, 


oordjrl 




butwa>iti>ni 




and at length gave ortien 






'neb were .letor^a.. 


TheFrene' 


loMwa 


S2olHeer> Ailed, Ineladlni! 


Grnerals Eipliions and Clor, IM offlcsra, nnd 


4,!l)« n»n k 


led, wo 


iinded. and mlsilng. The 


AUMlriani IM 


«.«("> k 


led and weunded.nna i.im 


taken p>I»ne 




4s.n,, 9Bag.,4^MH)k,u|. 


oack., and lJ,0Ott mu. 


el. were captured bv t le 


FrerelL Jlol 




ulat»>ulW.{wlmen.>»tt.e 


Held. Awbl 




"* »^t a.tSlf'cJ^^t wtli'e 






burled. On 


iho «th 


the Emperor fl»d hl> 


head-goarlere 


at Mace 




(mie President of <he Fnncb ReKuhllc) a Mnrsha 




agenm. 




™°e?arMW 


bit Hilan. tke capiKd of I.<mibardy 








uelproe 


aimed King. He reccWed 


(he Milan dej 




n the field of bxllle. 


.i.dlSo"X 


la the T 


it>latk>n>areVittlloite, 






lliraie Hue (toward! Ln[;o 


Waeglorejjol 






Milan Ter 


[Bliius. CS«e Route 11.) 



Ivna. <Stat.), on the river Dora Baltea. Fopn- 
latloii, <l,Ui<. Thle lithe ancient Eprrdla. guarding 
the moutb of Val .I'Aoita, and a wellJniilt town, 
plcluroMuelyjeatodonahlllidilei having an old 
machicofatcd eaitle. and a eatkedral. on the ilta 
of a Temple of Apollo. UnrodnceiGbseBe. cotton, 
and allk. PIlKrlin church of Madonna del Monte. 



BOTfoOruico (popuii 

The rocky mountalnB c 



mountain, roek, tlvcr, forest, and eaitled belglit. 
with distant gtnclers and snowy peaki, while it 
literally teeuie Willi the rlchen produce."— (Klso'» 































re. 





HOXJTE S- 

Turin to lTr«a, Aorta, tba at»a,t and 

Little St Bernard, and tbe Hont &ianc 

DlfltrlDt ; and to the CastcUamonte Dia- 

trtet. 

Ullea. I Milco. 



MontlltoDork .„.. SS 



>*'^*mratmma wide mtd tkiUy tviOrtlai 



TU8 lino passe, the moulh of Val aola. which 
[eada up to Oremonay (« hours) and to the head 
r>[ the Lys Torrent, under Monte Ross. 

Donna> (population. I,JB4), cloie to n past col 
In Ihe rock by tbe Romant. Tunnel under Fort 

aeepKorge.on a massive rock. It was captured 
his marclidownlbe8t,lJem«rd"u 1800, "uwa"™" 



H6ne Bard (Stat). 

TheValdeChamporcher.allttlefurtheron.loadi 
111) the Fcn«tre de Ca^e to the Glaeiertof Coqnk. 
Joramenoiiig ac Bard, French li Ihe lansann 
principally spoken. 

TeiT&l (tOaXX with a population of I, SOS. hai 

ii'lhojuncIloH of Val de ChullanI, buUl*»I^St 
sex. this val leads up (In nine hours) lo the base 



prMlplet, tt. 
it lien at Ih 



Bonte 6.] iTi 

St.nueent (popniatioii. i.ist). in B totttt or 

cheitnutKnil walnut (^«^ I,0a0feet sbcrmiok la 



powii 






Mipolcn' 






01u,tmon {Tupulukon. i.^-j). 

ChlicEii d'UHlls. m ■ CDUIDlU; I 

fonata line the bills nearly to •i»it .uu.ii..»- 
■.OMtoMklgh, TheoldGuttcboloiiBiIoIbcEn 
MiMbniUy, of CMieuide ChilUiit. the large ! 
rfnd weilthieat proprietors In [he TBllcy, A brld^ 






Id wbie. The 11 



eood wine. 



Boteli^ DuMonlBlui' 



AD^etDi,B,c. M, though bid Away nmoiii; beoBea, 

They ore ahoat 31 feet high, and tonlfied by lur- 
reti. Trbilld One. near Ihe tall Campanile oC 
the Did Church of 31. Owi (founded about Mi by 

and flanked Ijy lowera. Outilde'lbl/Ml'e'it'B 
modem bridge on the Buthier Toireiit, which 
has In lime changed Ita course and left a marble 
Roman bridge. Id Ihe eait. high and dry. 
Here Btanda alio the triumphal *Arch creeled 
by T. Varro a> a memorial q( (be lubjugallon 
of the SalaMl. nine nr ten years before ADgualni 

aolldly bnllt. In tolerable condition. 






[a Quint. 






:hbjh« 






te the flight ol 






[ at. Grat, 1 
■ Archbishop 



aahit. at 
tlve of A 



uuerniiiiamnuius; an oio mamiu lom : ac"'- 
The hlahop'e palace hag aoma (roaco ponral 



choir 






Alplbus!" 

Due south of Aosta la tb 
feet high, about fi hoars 



rmitaga 



eak or 



;t feet. A iKih over th* 
mouniaineirom AonaioCoaHsCpopnlillon, I.IH)II)> 

■nd pas'Leg Grand Pai-adli. WOV feet alKive the sei! 
the hlxhesl of the Oralan Alp^andG^lToI■,i^ Val 
deCoene, IB.iOSteet. Parsdlai ' * '' 



. {SeeH 



■B Alfi.) 



irallliCB up tt 



lie road Is good and easy. 

ftlus Ahnos, a Roman genera] of the time of 



16 



BBADBHAW 8 ITALT. 



[Section 1. 



Chdid Argent. Near tblt is a steep mule path, 
like steps, on the face of the cliffs, for bringing iron 
ore from Cogne. 

ViLLEXEuvE (population, 847), a pretty idace, 
near some iron forges. The ore is brought by 
women and men as well as mules, from the works 
at Cogne, 8,350 feet high. Here the valleys of the 
RhSmes and Sayaraiichc unite. The house^bave 
their windows barred with iron gratings. 

Liverogne is beautifully situated and is noted for 
Kood wine. 

Avise Castle is on the opposite bank, near Val 
Grisancbe. Between this and 

FosT Roc, Mont Blanc comes into view, at the 
head of the valley, like a brilliant alabaster wall. 
The road here winds round the precipitous face of 
a cliff, over the abyss of the Dorn. 

La Salle was a town of the Salassi, and has 
some remains, and an old Castle. 

MoRGBX (population, 1,1 IG), among vineyards, 
pine forests, and waterfalls, is near the vnlley to- 
wards Col de la Serena, leading up to the Great St. 
Bernard. 

Put St. Didier (population, 859), 25 miles from 
Aosta, near the junction of tlio Thuile acd the 
Dora; where the road parts off to Courmayeur ana 
to the passes of AU^e Blanche and Val Ferrex, 
under Mont Blanc. Hot sprinj^s and baths. 

Courmayeur (population, 2,680). 

Hotels: Royal; L'Angclo; L*Union; Mont Blanc. 

Courmayeur consists of ten small hamlets, in a 
fine hollow of the mountains, so sheltered that 
com is grown to the very edge of the ice. Mont 
Blanc here rises up like a vast wall, 15,780 feet 
high. 

1. Aosta, over the Little St. Bernard, to Bourg St. 
Maurice, 46 miles, in fifteen hours* walking. This 
was the pass taken by Hannibal, according to 
Polybius, who travelled over it sixty years later, 
expressly for the purpose of tracing it. It was the 
way most familiar to the tribes in alliance with 
Hannibal. (King's Italian Valleys of the Alps.) 

Several chateaux are passed in ascending this 
beautiful valley, the richness of which contrasts 
with the "poverty, filth, and cretinism" of its 
resident populatiun. La Thuile is at the mouth of 
the glen up to the Ruitor Glacier. Hence to the 
Hospice, in 8 hours, the pass being 7,218 feet high. 
It is the boundary of Savoy, and has a column of 
Jupiter and a stone circle. The descent through 
St. Germain to Bourg St. Maurice is made in 8| 
hours, with the fine peak of Mont Pourri in front. 

2. Aosta, over the Great St. Bernard, to 
Martigny, 47 miles, in 16 hours. The greater part 
by omnibus. 

At Gignod, the Yal Pellina branches off on the 

right, towards the Matterhorn and Zermatt, which 

is 20 hours' walking from Aosta, through mag- 

^JJScfintscBn^ry. The Col at the top is 11,687 fett 



St. Rext (popoUtlon, 859), a poor place, where 
the Italian Custom House is passed. Hence it is 
a rather steep road to the Hospice of Great St. 
Bernard, where seventy or eighty travellers may 
be lodged. From 16,000 to 20,00<» cross this pass, 
which is 8,130 feet high, and has its mean annual 
temperature at about freezing point. The highest 
heat on record is 69*. At Chmuilettaz, or Mont 
Mort, on either side of the pass, there is a very fine 
view of the Mont Blanc ronge. From this down to 
Martigny Station, in the Valais, is 10^ hours. * 

From Settimo (page 11), on tiie Ivrea line, a 
branch rail runs to Rivarolo and Cuorgn^, with 
another branch from Rivarolo to Castellamonte. 
The stations from Settimo are Volpiano, S. 
Benigno, Bosconero, and Feletto. Then 

Rivarolo (Stat.), which has remains of a 
fine Roman bridge. At Pont, in Val d'Oreo 
(where the river is called Acqua d'Oro, on ac- 
count of its water power), is a cotton factory, 
cmpl«.ylng 1,200 hands. The path to Cuorgnd, 
and up to this rocky Val, passes Locano and 
Cescrolo, to the house of our Lady of the Snow, 
near the top of Mont Iseran (1S,271 feet high), on 
the border of Savoy, near the head of the Isfere. 
Here Vittorio Emmanuele used to come to hunt 
the stambecco, a gigantic chamois, or wild goat. 

Tlie winter is bitterly cold under the Alps, but 
beautiful in its kind. "The effects of light and 
shade," says Gallenga, "on the high, polished, 
mirror-like surface of the vast surrounding Alpine 
chain, would di*ive poets or artists attempting to 
paint them to distraction. Such golden risings 
and rosy settings the sun never displays at any 
other season of the year, even in Italy ; its light 
grows keener as itsface waxes colder; disthiotness 
of outline and depth of ground impart new 
grandeur to the sublime picture of the boundless 
hill-range and interminable plain. Then the 
revelry of the moon, stars, and planets in the 
night! every farthing candle of the sixth magni- 
tude peeping forth a luminarj'!" 

Past Salassa and Valperga to Cuorgn^ (6^ 
miles). From Rivarolo past Ozegna (5 miles) to 

Castellamonte (Stat.), at the terminus. 
The town (population, 5,621) is the head place of 
the Canavese district (or district of Ivrea), the men 
of which are mostly carpenters, who emigrate 
yearly for employment. It stands on a hill, 500 
feet above the plain, commanding a fine view of 
Turin, Monte Vise, the Maritime Alps, and the 
Alps to the north. Much silk is made ; it is also 
noted for its pignattefOr pots. For several years 
in succession the valleys in this neighbourhood 
were desolated with vine disease. Castellamonte 
was the head-quarters of Mr. A. Galleng'i, when 
writing his entertaining Couwtry Life in Piedmont^ 
in which he describes how the countrjrmen of his 
forefathers lived; their simplicity, hospitality, 
sturdiness, and love of huddling in towns, their 
indifference to diet, their industry, and other mixed 
qualities. 



Route :.] 

Tnrln to BlaUa, Vaxallo, Lake of Orto, 
and Ui« Spper HoTarEse. 

By r.n to a«,ll,ik, a> in Mont« «, and Ihenc. 1 

Bslnnol* — _~.~. 7i Ci 
VcmmMO "" ' "' 

B4ndig:lliiDi 

Tlu llnepuaeatbroDBh b highly fcrlll*! 



>, LUCE or OBTA. IT 

T ir0iitii Rou. and 11 honn from Fonli 
. Ai Andomo tH mile 



BiaUa<Btat)j 

It contdns Ui 



.10) I DIglla lei 

rllltconntiy, 
liTlBiitliiB 111 



It reached by ihe Unci opciwd 

J. at Iti Isrmlnna.— A bljhop"i k*. 
Vnl Andotno. Popnlatlun. S.SOO. 



cnnililorabls matt of 
plenty of lodgliigiln U 
Hydropathic EiubUibi 



nthood. Lnts^ 



the nlace, and a hatter by trade. On the 6tb Hsy 
OaribaldL after DTgianlalnir hli naff; oilh MSHiial 
- - ■ orldcir A' ■■ *- '-'- 

inlTedani 



Vlelor Emms 
»nin-BtlaiiB agalnat 
Henaile 



rw 



ndiurr, dedicated to tha Madonna, on Ibo lapi 
!^ l>>- Ferrari aiid Lnpii. 1'ha Hydropallil 



lie Do. by the tide of fbloh la a path lalolhebeail 
nf Val Setia.dDwn loPiDdoaiidSco|iii,orBcopallu. 
Haitii 1> H-hoira Jmn'OnaaOBsy, up lb« nlley. 



the Sella to 



VABALLO (Btat % 

HoMi: Fosta; ttnlla; Croce Blanca. 
The capital of Val Heila. and the centre of much 
jilMuTEaqneandlnTltlngiccneryln tblsandneigh- 
iiourlnB Tat1e]-a. It may ho rcachod Hi! rail from 
- vara. It coi.lalns many old honsoa, Popula- 
n, 8,900. The people of Val Sei'la are lionu 
inlon. At the Church of B. Gnadrnzlo la a 
e altar-piece o( Iha JMarrlage of St. Catherine, 
by Gaadciiilo Ferrari, an attlat of celebrity here. 
■--3 Santa ll*[la(hUaOraile.anneuil to the 



louniled l-ISO-DU, by D. Caiaio, a pilgrim fraiMbi! 

Holy Sepulchre, and (orty-Blx nnall chapcia and 
oralorlei on tb« aacsnt, buUt by F. TIbaldl, and 
adorned with treacoea and terra-cottai. by Fnnri 
and other a^llnl^ with auhjocla r ~- — ' 



ilcb (be derout p 
mmanda a flueproi 



At Id Bacca, 11 mile from Ihia, on the Seali, 
are the workiforlhe rlchnfcl(lra*r«iofLaBalmi, 
■Ituated on Flo de Caatello, «| bonra dieUnt, and 
producea good trofHoa, 



a, healdei cbestnuti 



UtADSSAW'S ITUT. 
It rlehnSH wllh boIdntH of fonn. beatsnofl be 



UkM, <»nttilnla> rl< 

Itll*bOD 

S.ltwrgo e. Qlnllo), 
oMt aura, with : 
to B. Princli d'Auli: 



naeUpsnnrBniuliiUllAIpi. (Bill's i7uMd to U 
fftiltr* 4l]n.} 

HOXTXB 8. 
TnHa to HonLtft, iron*, and Lkka 



« tiom Ngriiri (•» Route I) mn;— 

Mil.. J JtUtt. 

BonaTleliio^.. 1T| 



_ laj Anna 

vuiuo romhU ... ll| I 

Olanlo (ttMU FopDlAtmn, ifiM. Hem u* 
nwuraaModei of lUk. 

BOloTlclIlO (Btel), population, l,1i;. near 

AtOBK out.), U the termlnni of tbo rail, dbbt 
Um bottom or tha lake. Population, 1,MD. 

J7ont.- D'Kalla and Post, on a Ane part of Ibi 
Lake. 

A •■■U town of no gem IntVMt. sontalnlnn 
lb* Santa Haiia Church, la wUob an palotlnn 
hj Q. PeTrarl, uid an oM dsnrted leat of the 
BotTanwo family, Tomarkable at tha birthplace 
of St. Carlo BorroKwo (1SS3>. Near this ti 

bUb, beildei a pidaiul of 40 fael.' By meant of 

haUair body, and alt la the Inilde of the w or tha 
ngaa. It waa fat u lo 1»7 by the Borromeo 
fully. Hei* Peter taaityr, tha "MUlar of ten- 



BDhs, a beantUul epot oa LWO XacglOTO, 

Bartlt! Doi Ilea Borroinjeg, modenl* and 
finely placed i Hllan, EttflUA (nunA aatia at 

Thli Bioall place, beautifully >lt Dated, and 

•nltable lor a lengthened lUy. The atoeni et 
AfonM Xatltrrmt (about 4.10(1 feat) can be maAa 

[ThaheadofthelAkei9Bl 

MBKaOlno (population, 770), Id SfflH tanitoiT' 

The eteamer cilli here twice dall^i itartlnf 

from Locamo, and pn>ceedi M other placei OB 

Laro Hagglore. lulling paueagen al the ehlef 



When Oarlbal* arrlTod lere Ir 



rtan (lying ct 



be people 
lean, end 



From Anna, by dlllE^n 
Stmn Onnd Hotel B 



i; OtkM Hotel da 



Eitgttik MrAH Arefce at the Chapel In the grooBda 
if Villa dan, a eeat belonging to C. Henfrey, 
i^Mj. (bnUt by BoZnolaX which wai ooeuoled by 
loeenVlctoclaon her ililtto tha Lake, Uanb, 187*. 

A charming Tillage, under Mnue HoamiH, 
•hioh l> 4,890 feel high, and oommandi a nettle 
■iBwof the lakes and the BDowy AJpe. There are 



n Uaad) l> tha 



arottnd, in spite of thoAual 
wkleb ocenplul thsm In tnrt 
of Anna bellefe k* wai gal 
he left aeerMlT br night wit: 

marched on OMalalla Tlcluo. in >piw ui ine i an un 
■ crolalDK onihe lake, he ufely I which 

eii^oCa!end^ and on the evening of I a.'oio 

Ibe lard, made hli entry Into Vareae, In the mldM i garden 
' ATlolentitDrm. The whole population inmed "" 



laOLi SoPEUOtl, or Del Pi 
ilaod), and Ita piDtnreaqne i 
tlon of IM. FnrtlieT out 



landed hli 



ta wnlMme Ibeli llberataia. After balna la more a' 

t ffiflH;? fejr« 4tUfiM la; a«ar^ |h»B th« I 

w atro^rm, Jlav Krtmg, bjit tbty ww* I InncHOi 



imnnt. tropical planta, 
be Borromeo family, 



Blu-l(tolhe acuth). "Beautlfnl Iiland," 
' art. and perhapa lew charming 
It rlaaa ip ta a nnunUal t»^ 
■ — iflntlaldMtlirCowit 



Route 9.] AR017A, BAVEKO, LAOO MAGOIORB, DOMO d'OSSOLA, BITISRA. 



19 



Vitaliano Borromeo, abont 200 years ago ; planted 
with cedar, laurel, cork, beech, cypress, sugar canes, 
coffee trees, Ac, and many lemons and oranges. 
The -whole is set off with statuar}'; and there is a 
cnrions shellwork grotto, close to the water. At 
the summit is the sumptuotis Pqlace of the family, 
approached by a staircase, and built by Count 
Frederico Borromeo, over a century ago. Among 
the pictures inside are those of four battles in 
which he fought, besides a portrait of him with 
his jester. There are also frescoes and pictures by 
Giorgione, Bassano, Procaccini, Schidoni, Vandyck, 
Tempesta (an artist who killed his wife and fled 
hither for protection), with monuments in the 
chapel, and a thUitre. There is an hotel on the island. 

Pallanza (Grand Hotel Pallanza, good and 
moderate), is a fine summer and winter resort, at 
the angle of the two branches of the Lake, facing 
the Borromean Islands. 

Etiffiiih Church Service at the Hotel. 

In a small yard attached to the Church of S. 
Stef ano is a Roman pedestal with sculptures, temp. 
Emperor Claudius. At Snn^i a' village near to 
Pallanza, is a remarkably perfect Roman Arch. 

Intra (Hotel de la Yille) is a short distance 
round the point. Opposite is 

LaVdllO (Stat.) — HoteU: Stella; Albergo del 
Moro — 7 miles across from Baveno on the opposite 
side of Lago Maggiore. The best view of the en- 
gaging scenery ot the Lake is from a boat in the 
middle. From Laveno a line runs viA Gallarate 
to y»«»^«j 45 miles. This line is continued north 
to LQtnO And BeUlmOXia, on the St. Gothard 
line, for which see Bradshaie's Illustrated Hand- 
Boct to SwUzerland. 

From Baveno there Is a diligence to 

Ora^ellOlia (Stat.), & miles from the beauti- 
ful Lake of Orta (see Route 7). From here rail to 
Domo d*Ossola. passing through 

VogOgna (Stat.), with an old castle. Near 
here the fine Yal Anzasca begins, leading up to 
Monte Rosa, and into Santhlk (Saasthal), by the 
Monte Moro. The scenery is as grand as anything 
on the Swiss side of the Alps, but softened down by 
an Italian sky. In common with those of other val- 
leys here, the people are of German origin. It is 
about two days' journey to Visp, Macugnaga being 
half-way, vid Fonte Grande (Jnn) and Borcn (InnJ. 

BOXno d'OSBOla (Stat.). Hotels: Grand Hotel 
de la Villc; Grand Hotel; Albergo dl Spagna ; Angtlo. 
Alivcly little town, near theTosa, in the Eschen or 
Ossola Valley, quite Italian in its character, with 
some of the houses supported by arcades. This 

gart of Piedmont belonged to the Duchy of Milan, 
ut is now Incorporated with the Kingdom of 
Italy. It is an excellent starting point for Ex- 
cwiions in the valleys around. For example: — 
one may be taken through the terrace-shaped and 
fertile Yal Formazza or Pommat, past the fine 
Tosa Fall, above Andermatt, on the Frutt, thence 
OTer th« ffaMfort of the Gries (7,78fl feet high), and 
tknoHA BBln«iMn*T]ial to Oher^Gostelen (on tbA 



fi-om Upper Tosa you may go by Val Bedretto 
to Airolo, on the St. Gothard Road, 16 stunden. 
Another trip from Domo d'Ossola is by the road to 
the cast, through Val Vigezza, or Centovalll, past 
Masera, Bajiesco, Trontans, Rlva (near a Fall), 
Malesco, Olgla (the highest part, 8,020 feet), under 
Monte CJrldone (7,0i)0 feet), Borgnone, Verdasio, 
Intragna (at the mouth of Vnl Onsersone), across 
Ponte Brolla. on the Maggia to Locarno (10 hours), 
at th« head of Lago Maggiore. 

Hence it is 7^ hours to the Siniplon Pass. (See 
Bvadshaw's Hand-Book to Switzerland). 

ROXja?E e. 

Nice to Genoa, along the Riviera dl Fonente. 

By rail, near the Comlchc Road. About I 
hour to Mentone, and 6 to 8 holy's thence to Genoa. 
It may be done in 16 hours by steamer, but, as this 
goes by night, all the beauty of the scenery is 
missed. This is one of the routes which should be 
walked over to enjoy It In perfection. 

N.B.— The distances to Mentone, on the French 
side, are reckoned from Nice; after that, from 
Ventimiglla, on the Italian side. 

The principal stations are as follow:— 



Miles. 

Monaco 9i 

Mentone 141 

Ventimiglla 21| 

Bordlghera 8 

S. Remo 10 

Oneglia 25i 



Miles 

Alassio 88 

Albenga ;. 42| 

Flnalmarlna 63 

Savona 67 

Voltri 86 

Geima 93^ ' 

For Nice, see Bmdshaic's Hand^Book to Frdnee, 
or the Continental Guide. 

The Comlche road, by the Riviera di Ponente 
(i.e., western edge), as this side of the Gulf of 
Genoa Is called. Is In the direction of the Via Fla- 
mlnla, and up and down hill ali the way, past a 
succession of picturesque towns and villages, and 
never far from tlio Me<llterrancan, with Its beau- 
tiful winding bays and headlands on one Kide, and 
the Maritime Alps and Apennines on the other. 
Mulberry, orange, lemon, olive, and other trees are 
abundant. N.B.— The description applies to the road. 

Leaving Villefranca, or VUle&anche (Stat.), 
on the right, the road ascends to a point 2,100 feet 
above the sea, and then passes 

Esa, or Eza (Stat.), where there was a temple 
to Isis. to 

Turbia, called Trophxa Augusti by the Romans, 
from a tropliy, or tower, which marked the boun- 
dary of Italia and Gallia on this side-, now a ruin, 
witli some Gothic additions about it. To the right 
is Monaco (Stat.), population, 3,000, so called 
from a little principality belonging to the Grimaldi 
family, with its ruined castle, on a peninsula, in a 
beautiful bay. the site of a temple to Hercules 
Moncecus. The prince keeps a public gaming table 
at Monte Carlo. The Palace contains sumptu- 
ously furnished apartments, shown thxAi^^fsssM^'^ 
week in the afteTwowv. "^w^y^^sNw %»«k vk^Vsss^k^^ 

made, I>wtxl^tiMtT%^\^^*««^^^'^«>^'*^^'^^ 






/■ 



20 



BRADftUAW's ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



Oabb^Roquebnme (Stat), under bold, 

dark, irregular rocks; and al8o 

Mentone, or Menton (Stat.), now annexed to 
France. 

Hotels: Hotel des Anglais; Hotel Westminster; 
Hotel d'Orient; Hotel de Belle Vne; Grand Hotel 
des lies Britanntques; Hotel d'ftalie; Grand Hotel; 
Grand Hotel et Pension du Pare; Hotel et Pension 
da Midi; Hotel de la Gare; Hotel Gamuns; Hotel 
Princeof Wales ; Hotel et Pension d* Anglcter^o. — 
Bee Bradshauf'i ContinentcU Ouide. 

Resioent PhpHciant. English and Scotch Church 
Services. 

English Chemist.— ySr. Gras. 

A winter residence forinyalIds,in afinobay,wIth 
a beautiful climate, visited by Queen Victoria, 
1882. It consists of long, narrow, steep iFtreets, 
leading to the Cathedral of St. Giorgio, which is 
hung with silk damask. Some of the houses are 
nine storeys high ; three spire churches. Moun- 
tains shelter it all round. At the back is the 
▼alley up the Klvcr Coreille, to Cnstiglionc, and 
Ln Montee, with innumerable walks and rides. 

Proceed over the new French frontier, and along 
a beautiful road to 

yentimlglia (Stat.) 

J7(0<e/«: Croce di Malta; Ruropa. 

An ancient town (population, 8,400), the Roman 
Albiwn Intermelium^ on a slope with a castle above 
it, at the mouth of the River Roja, which comes 
.down from the Col di Tenda, and is crossed by a 
long narrow bridge. It has a Gothic cathedral. 

Mr. Hanbury's garden well deserves a visit. 

Bordlghera (Stat.) 

Hotels: Hotel d'Anglcterre, flrst-class Hotel, 
close to the English Church, large garden. See 
Advt. Angst, first-class Hotel, in a beautiful 
sheltered position; Belvedere, in an excellent 
position, with back to the sea; des lies Rrittan- 
ntques, large garden ; Hotel West End; Windsor; 
Victoria; Hotel et Pension Sapia ; Pension Bella 
Vista. 

English Church Service. 

The town, lately much Improved, lies on a hill 
side, with a genial climate, suitable for invalids. In 
this neighbourhood the date palms, used in the 
ceremonies of Holy Week, at Rome, are grown, the 
exclusive privilege of supplying them having been 
granted by Sixtus V. 

Ospedalettl (Stat.), a new and favourite 
winter resort. 

San Bemo (Stat.) — i7(0/e2«:— Bellevne. 

Paix, near the station. 

Hotel de Nice; Hotel de la Medlterran^e ; Hotel 
d'Angleterre. 

Victoria, east end of town, well fitted up, in a 
beautiful garden. 

Hotel du Paradls. 

Grand Hotel Royal; Hotel des lies Brltanniques. 

^<i?Ml PjiJmieri. 
^-"^0 n^aioftown; ffoM de VRurope. 
fresf £ad Hotel, comfortable aad well fifnated. 



Rnssle. and Di San Remo, in the town. 

Villa Tatlock, facing the sea, near the rail. 

English Viee-Consul; English Church Services; 
English and other Res/dent Physicians. 

House Agent and Wine Merchant: Mr. J. Con- 
greve. 

Population, 17,000, 

The old town, on the large 6olid steep side of a 
hill, under C«po Nero, conhists of houses rising 
one over the ether, crowned by the Hermitage of 
St. Romolo, under Mount Bignone, and a hand- 
some Gothic church. 

At the new toi^Ti, below, nearer the sea, modem 
hotels, villas, nnd bonrding houses have been es- 
tablished, with a club, fouutains.ftftc. ; and this 
inviting spot, under a mild dry climate, is now 
a favourite winter residence. 

Near it is a Convent for fifty ladies. Piano del 
Rb is 3,500 feet high. 

The road ascends Capo Verde to the Chapel of 
the Madonna delta Guardia; then down to the 
River Toggia, past Arko; then S. BtefanO(Btat.), 
a fishing village; and Ban LorenzO (Stat), 
noted for its olives aad sweet wine, to 

Porto MaurizlO (Stat.) (population, 7,000), a 
picturesque place, on a neck of land, with a ni^w 
Cathedral overlooking the harbour, from which 
olive oil, lithographic stones, Ac, are exported. 
Over a suspension bridge, on the Impero, to 

OnegUa (Stat.) 

Hotels: Railway; Victoria. 

Populstion, 8,000. Here Andrea Doria, the 
famous Genoese admiral was born. It was burnt 
by the French in 1792. Its figs are celebrated. 
Past another cape to 

DianoMaxena (population, 2,191), and a castle, 
on a boy, la the Diano Vnlley. Up Capo delle 
Mole, and descend to another bay, terminated by 
Cnpo doUe Croce. Past the town of Lalgueglla 
(Stat.), to 

AlasBlo (Stat.) 

Hotels: Alassio; deLondrcs; Roma. 

Resident Chaplain and Physicians. 

Bankers: Messrs. Congrcve. 

An old place, with a little harbour; nowagrowing 
resort for invalids. Its figs are the best on this 
coast. Population, 5,000. Further on is 

Albenga (Stat.), or Albenza (population, 4,189). 
A beautiful spot (when the floods ce^se to come 
down), on the River Centa, with Monte Viso, 
Mt the head of the Po, in view, seen over the nearer 
Maritime Alps. Its apples and oranges are excel- 
lent, and olives are grown. It was the Roman 
Albiurti fngaunum, and i^ so ancient as to have 
made an alliance with Carthfige. Besides the 
Ponte Lungo, and some other Roman antiquities, 
it contains a Gothic cathedral and two old feudal 
castles, called Torre del Guelfo and Torre del 
Marchese Malatesta. In front of it is Gallinaria 
Island, once noted for a breed of fowls. 

The road passes OOTialO, half of whose popula- 
tion, two centuries ago, were carried int6 slavery. 
by the Turks; Botf^MttO, near tbe Cape of S. 



I— wiiMi t fci » r'»<' 



Route 9.] 



8 AN BEHO, 8AV0NA, COOOLETO, GENOA. 



SI 



L*ncU; LOftBO (popalation, 8,4^8). where the Aus- 
triuts were defeated 1795 ; and Pleira; to Finale- 
inarlTWl (Stat.), near FiKALK BoRGO, and Finals 
PiA, three fortined places (with n church in each) 
which belonged to Spain, near the ruins of Castel 
OaTone, and the Roman Finarium. They produce 
the delicious app!c called Male di Finale, or Male 
Carfo^ because It was a favourite of Charles III. of 
Spain. Then through a marble tunnel, or gallcry. 
to Varigotti, and 

Holi and its castle, on a bay of the same name, 
the rfte of Paulum. Population, 2,000, chiefly 
flshermen. Monte Calo is visible to the left. 
Next, on to SpotomOi with Bergeggi Island and 
its church ruins in front of it. Genoa comes into 
view. Past VadO, ancient Vada Sabata, and Cape 
di Vido, to the Roman Savo^ now 

SAVONA (Stat.) 
Here the direct lines from Turin and Alessandria 
come in— See Routes 3 and 4. 
Inn : Railway Hotel. 

Alai^e and prosperous town (population, 19,120), 
a bishop's sec, and head ui a province ; with a 
Cathedral^ begun 16M, by Pope Julius II., contain- 
ing life-size figures of inlaid ytwyd in the choir, 
by L. Brea ; several palaces; a theatre, built 1853, 
tkn*i dedicated to Chiabrera, the poet, a native, 
who i8 buried in S. Giacomo Churcl.; and the 
Dominican Church, containing A. Durer's Ador- 
ation of the Magi and A. Scmini's Nativity. Small 
pier harbour. Resident EnglisJi, Vice- Consul. 

Up in the hills is the Church of the Madonna 
della Misericordia, with a Presentation by Domeui- 
chino. Besides oil, Savona produces good pottery 
and porcelain, with excellent fruit, iicaches, apri- 
cots, oranges, flower roots, white wine, Ac. Its 
harbour was destroyed by the Genoese. Cl(>se to 
it is a statue of the Virgin, with a rhyme which is 
quoted as an example of either Italian or Latin:— 
"In mare irato, in *ublt» pirocelU. 
Inv<x» ie, uostn benign* Stella.*' 
A railway goes inland to Mondovi and Turin, 
in connection with the one along the coast to 
Genoa. Here a branch of the Via Aurelia went 
up the Bormida to Acqui, Ac. The next place 
is AlbiSBOla (Stat.), the seat of the Rovcre 
family, of which were Popes Sixtus IV. and 
Julius II. 

Varazze, a bustling port, under the Apennines 
(population, IQ.COO). 

CogOletO (Stat.), or Cuculetto (population, 
2,18B), claims to be the birthplace of Columbus, and 
his house is shown. Here the coast becomes finer 
than ever, and the towns arc more picturesque in 
appearance; but when examined they are found to 
be dirty and ruinoun. The railway now passes 
through deep cuttings and tunnels. 

yoltri(Stat) Population, 11,228. It has 
some fi I. e churches, villas, paper mills, and sulphur 
springs. 

FegU (Stat.) I^pulatlon, 8,000. A growing 
resort for visitors. Here are the Villas Grimaldi, 
Doria, and PallaTidni; the last a bhow-place, to . 
fee wbSeb Mp wder mny be obtain^ In Genoa. I 



I Jlotels: M^diterrane'e; Grand Hotel Gargini. 

English Chuixh Service. 

Fine view from the Scoglio Vittoria, so named 
from the Crown Princess, who stayed here in 1879. 

Sestri di Ponente (Stat.) Population, 11,000. 

The last town before GeHo:i, to which the splendid 
Cornichc Road leads by a line of churches, castles, 
villages, and country seats. Here are Villas 
Spinola, Lomellina, &c. 

Oomigliano (Stat.), population, 3,499, near 
Palazzo Serra, Villa Darazzo, Ac, aud the Junc- 
tion of the rail from Polceverra Valley. 

Hotel: Villa Rachel, good and moderate. 

Resident Chaplain and Physician, 

S. Pier d'Arena (Stat), population. 22,000, 

in the suburbs of Genoa, which comes into view 
after the Lantcrna tunnel. The terminus is in 
Piazza Acqua Verde, overlooking the harbour of 
Genoa. 

GENOA (Stat.) 

Called Qenova by the Italians. Qines by the French, 
Genua by the Germans: all from the Latin Janua^ 
a gate. A tunnel under the city now unites the 
ea«^t and west lines. 

Hotels: C2rand Hotel de GSnes, fiist-class hotel, 
situated o|tposite the Carlo Felice Theatre. 

CJrand Hotel d'ltalie et do hi Croix de Malte. 

Grand Hotel Isotta. 7, Rue de Romp, first-class 
hotel, newly built. Orent comfort. 

Grand Hutel de la Ville, beautifully situated in 
the centre of tlie town. 

Hotel de Fr mce, well situated. 

Hotel de Londres and Pension Anglaise, well 
situated, near the Central Station. 
Grand Hotel du Pare. 

Hotel des Ktrangers, in Via Nuovissima. Well 
recommended. 

Hotel Metropole ; de TEcu * Victoria ; Bonera ; 
del Gran Colombo; Pension Girard. 

Beet and veal are both excellent ; fish abundant, 
including the briglia (oiullet); acciqua (anchovy); 
vitelladiapparizionehviAdipaisione; tunny, and the 
little white bianchetti^ with a delicate rose tint. 
Pies, some of the best in Italy; good macaroni; 
mushrooms from the Apennines, called boleti when 
red, neri when black, and imported in the dry state; 
sold in Piazza de'Funghl. Snails are sold in the 
market. Good preserves and fruits, and delicious 
green figs and orai>ges, citrons, appl es, pears. French 
and Montfcrrat wines are the best ; of the common 
native white wines that of Polcevera is the most 
agreeable. One of the liqueurs is cuqua d'aman'na 
(from the cherry); tucchero rosato (rose sugor) is 
a conserve, which mixed with water, makes n re- 
freshing drink. Tobacco is a ((overnment monopoly, 
but real HAvannah cigars may be bought at the 
Custom Houte. 

Resident English Consul. 
Bankers.— Mensn. Ganiet> Bt^^mvi., v\«^ C^. 
Resideat EiigUiiKPl^k%\ci«ii\\ «»9M>«M^»\. 
Filigree Work*,— \ii%^'^« %sA^Q^i5A»HC^» ^^ 



22 



BSADSHA.W*S ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



recommend the manufactory and dep6t of Mr. 
Emilio Forte, 155,VlaOreficl; prissemedal awarded, 
London Exhibition, 1862. 

Poit-OjffUe, Galleria Mazzini. Telegraph at 
Palazzo Ducale. 

English Cfturch Service, on Sundays at the new 
Church. 

Sccteh Presbyterian Service every Sunday in the 
Church, Via Peschiera. 

Conveyances. — Omnibuses attend the railway 
stations in the town. Street omnibuses for each 
course, 10 cents. Street calashes, called cittadini, 

1 lira the course ; or 1 lira 50 cents, for the first 
hour ; 50 cents, extra at night. 

There is a tariff for boatmen, including any 
ordinary quantity of baggage, either for em- 
barkation or disembarkation, but the fare had 
better be agreed on beforehand. Pleasure boats, 

2 lire the first hour. 

Steamer to various parts, as Marseilles, Leghorn, 
Civita Vecchia, Naples, Palermo, Malta. (See 
Bradshaw's Continental OuideJ. On the 24th 
April, IS.H, the Ercolano left for Marseilles, with 
Sir R. Peel and others on board, and was run down 
by a steamer. Sir R. Peel clung to a floating 
mast, and was saved at the last moment by the 
Sicilia, which brought him and others back to 
Genoa. Mr. Halsey, M.P., and his family were lost. 

Population (1889), 206,000. It is divided into six 
•estiere or sections. 

* Chief Objects. 0/ Notice.—Wa, degli OreficI, 
Palazzo Ducale, Palazzo Serra, Palazzo Pallavi- 
cini, Palazzo Brignole. Cathedral, Churches of St. 
Annunziata, St. Stefano, St. Ambrogio, St. Siro, 
Santa M. Carignano. Villa Pallavicini. The 
pnpazzi, or marionettes, nre worth seeing. 

This renowned city, denominated GbnSa la 
Superba (i.e., the proud), is a free port at the top 
of the Gulf of Genoa ; head of a Duchy, and of a 
province ; seat of a governor, archbishop, univer- 
sity, &c. It stands in the best part of that beauti- 
ful strip of the Mediterranean called the Riviera, 
in a pure and healthy climate, sheltered by the 
Ligurian Apennines. The city proper lies east of 
the harbour, along which is a noble range of fine 
houses, 2 or 3 miles long. From this it rises in a 
magnificent amphitheatre, with palaces, gardens, 
churches, &c., stretching in every direction, over 
a space of 8 square miles; only one-sixth of 
which is level ground. It is defended by a double 
line of fortifications, the outer one being 7 to 8 
miles in circuit, and commanded by detached forts 
on the highest points beyond; as the Diamante, 
Due Fratelli, Quezza, Santa Tecia, &c. It is from 
these points and from the harbour that the city 
should be seen. The Protestant Cemetery and the 
Negri Palace are good standpoints. Many of the 
houses are painted in fantastic colours, and adorned 
with statues, columns, festoons, fic. 

The streets arc generally narrow, steep, and 

irregular, mere lanes in fact, up and down hill, 

with no foot-paths, and encroached upon by pro. 

/w/y>y^ u/fper storeys. They are often lined by tall 



well-built houses, and marble palaces, five, six, 
and even nine storeys high, with light slate roofs, 
and courts fragrant with orange trees, Ac. Some 
of the best streets are Balbi, Nuova, Kuovissiraa, 
Carlo Felice, Carlo Alberto, Santa Giulia. The 
Via di Circonvallazione a Monte, and the V. di C. 
al Mare are also fine streets. There is a constant 
succession of priests, nuns, soldiers, monks, and 
porters carrying bales strung from poles over their 
shoulders. 

An inscription in the cathedral affirms that this 
ancient town was founded by a grandson of Noah, 
named Janus. It was called Genua (as some think, 
from genu, a knee) in Livy^s time, and, as an ally 
of the Romans, was destroyed by Hannibars 
brother, Mago. 

After suffering from the Guelf and Ghibeline 
factions, the first Doge, S. Bocanegra, was elected 
in 1339. Charles VI. of France in 1396, Fran- 
cesco Sforza in 1458, and Louis XII. in 1499, were 
for a time successively masters of the republic, 
which again acquired its independence under the 
famous Andrea Doria, in 1528, and lasted till the 
French invasion of Italy, when it was annexed to 
the Ligurian Republic in 1798. In 1800, Massena 
sustained a siege of two months against the Aus- 
trians and the English fleet, and only yielded after 
the loss of 15,000 men by famine, Ac. In 1814 It 
was taken by Lord W. Bentinck, and finally united 
to Sardinia. 

Two Moles of solid stone protect the harbour, 
which has plenty of deep water and is lined by a 
marble terrace throughout. Molo Vecchio, on the 
east side, is about 1,250 feet long, and Molo Nuovo, 
on the west side, near the Lazaretto, about 1,000 
feet, with an outer basin protected by a pier. 
Outside the new mole stands the tall Lantern or 
Lighthouse, built in 1547, and looking like a slender 
pagoda ; it is ascended by 365 steps. 

The Darsena, within the port, was begun in the 
thirteenth century, and included, till lately, the 
Marine Arsenal, with its magazines and workshop*, 
small docks for the Sardinian navy — ^now moved 
to Spezia, — with the Bagnio for convicts, near the 
Bisagno torrent. A marble terrace, or Quay^ with 
a carved portico and shops below it, about 440 
yards long, and begun 1839, leads hence past four 
pontes or stone jetties, to the Porto Franco, a 
collection of eight piles of warehouses, where goods 
are stored free of duty, except for bonding. The 
facchini or porters, on account of the narrowness 
of the streets, are in great request here. They 
are or were a privileged class, exclusively from 
Bergamo, and still form a rather close corporation, 
like the Fellowship Porters of London. Near the 
Porto Franco is the Mandraccio Basin. Via 
Carlo Alberto leads from the port to the cathedral 
square. 

The Dogana or Custom House, hard by, is the 
old hall of the Banco di S% Georgio, which was 
founded 134-5, and plundered by the French in 
1800. It was this rich trading body which gare 
life to the commercial enterprise of ancient Genoa, 



Th« RnJwngt, ar Lo|:gUdii'Baaobl (si Dincklri), 

It bi* (Bmonf othTMStnuj'Veln" .Wt™?( 
CftTDur. A Itltlo •bore l> the 
* Via difit OrtJM, i bntliliiK Btnot, when tba 

PIdimllhi' ibon us found. Ororone oTllieDi li 
FlolB'i plcton of the Holy Family. CQTond 
with Elua. >Dd bolonslQE to thu Quild; uurly 
oppgiltc 1> a bu-rellef oil tbe Hmlvlly. Here, 
lORi, ftc, era mede lor ox-Toto 



. Up tb 



! rl^bt uid bi 



le boipitilti 



•plendld tIcw d[ the city tai the sea, from neer 
tfie Biiltm railway >tatloni there i> en equally 



le CirlKuaa and 9anou 
;ho old nobility, aad th< 



aKy)a.wsi moitly 



In the Uuptiit'e deetb. Some good bronie wotk, 
by Zibello, li leen in the abalr. In the lUrlBty 
tbey (hew lb* Sacro Catlno [bailnj, a lii-eldad 
piece ofRlaii, broDfbt from Caiana, bi llSl. and 
ri-poited to b4 tbat whleb held the puelianuDb al 
)ht Lait aan*'- }* **• flm> ^ W M > pun 



It leiuppotledbyiliteeu tall while marble pi llan. 
The pafated lenlt by CaileuL 

B. Maria Mil VIgn alBo nete on ilxleen EOlnmba 
of marble, eaeh hebig a ilngle block. Painting! gf 
IhB Annunelstloii, the Preeenlalion In the Temple, 
Ac; Mgb altar by Pngiti thi Virgin Chapel, rleUr 
adorned. Uaregllano'i C)iri>l on the Cnite,Ia 
wood; and Solaru'i baa-rellef at Ibl TlidD and 

•Z'Aanuiuisia, at the earner of that PlMia, WM 
buUt by Puget, fbr Ibe Loraeltlnl ramllv, and bae 
been later reitored. It abaondi with marble 
werke, gliding, *e.. In Ibe cellUig and every other 
part. II hni a etipala: the front li good end li 
ndomod with the Lart Supper, by Procacclnoi bnt 
the dome li iinan and nnflnlihed. Farguaemi 
prnises Its pnre detlgn. "Tble church l> a basilica 
of contlilerahle dlmeTnloDs, being Bl feet wide, af 

nave 1b lepunteil irom the aliloi by a range of 

paitenii ofgreat hdanly. Thoroofofthe n»re la 
divided longltndlnslly Into three compertmenli. 



le Diw defect Ibat url 
lluw lines of the Cor 
[Bk to flupport the pler- 



is better pictureB, ai Itubene' Cli 
Is St. Ignatins (aver the aliar.whl 
marble pilUr^ 38 feet high), ai 



by the richnBBs of the coloarliig and aatonighed at 
lUe won^lerfol elaboralloo of the datalls, wliboM 
inqnliingtiHi oloBaly wbalber or Dot it Is alllntb* 

w, Rr Cliureb of Iba 



. and DnvM. umhr Uw cHpola, the beat of whidi li 
. FnECt'i SebaiUan 1 ileb brr»ii«s br Boldiln on tbi 
, »ltiir; nHnadrRsii! Procscctnrn VIriln (wllh »t 
I'mnvlii ond St. CI»rlM)i Qnerclno-i SI. Francb 



MonleraoLi. who built (In the cry«) the tomb ur 
Ihtgrul AnOraa Dorla, to wfaoid t>Ml III. unia 
»w{ird,noiikeplpUcedsbo»olh(hti"»"«r. Tho 
SI. StbailiuK, Ulh cui'tnry Oatbic, hna the 
HsrVrdom u[ that ulnl by OlDlIn Rgmano. 

.'rtlleribySehlnigiuiuid Cacclaloro, with Onldri'i 
Pualon. 

8mta llaria dt CiultUa, » v«ry old Ootblccburch 
ot lh» tleront]! Goiitury, bill t by Iho Cailclll 
(«IIillr.h»'ln(lbH!«rowiofp-anllflpllli.ni. Nsur 

SilnU. and Iha AiuioncUltuii, by L. Br». a natiye 
artlit ot ths afteenth century. Anothtr worth 
notice [• Gre^l»:lto'i Virgin; bnt the boat lalhc 






Hi>i> 



in Ow. The EngUab 
The luicoVaDdoli chore 

gellcalchntcht indpabl 


hiinb7.%'viB G 
ihedan'Alman.cco 


"Genoa(My«Dr. Wo 
moat idtenmlns citie. i 
bnlldlngs. You past cot 
thi»e1o^,iuirra^.l.dr< 
brilUanl with ((Old, Jew 


lulyforold conven 
ile^vrnVaryc^fill 














t of bUick 




blCTOinod vlih 


old. Oi«otL.B 


ea'i DM fa 




led pahillnra la 
ncM^- ofChrtit, 




»h«aa- 


Ik 


llnled bv SI. Lnlu 


for Aeharna. 


KhiKofEdeau.^ 




top 


ofBanWI.lBlla. 




HDall Ida 


nodQUhlesbnrch. 


mtalnine a eolebr 


led work 


of 


n. the Martyr- 


m of 8.. aiapbim 


byBnph 


Del 




B™'wl!.Vi 






Hd performed a' 


Ano'^tln 




Gothic chu-cb, 



Mih ^shl-ildwl emnpanllc. a. QloTuinl dl Pre 
«^wvJta /Ab Knl^a at SI. John, 

"O""^ t^ trmlU « ,fy^ of tbt Capuclnl «id 



pnlacea. I appnlian 



I of Fmndi t: 

If IhoH IH 



Vaiilee by Gluriflono." 



It tUdrconr(-yaidi,conalillnKofiati(eaof marble 
arcadoai bat bMntltnl a* tbey ars. vltb n liitle 
qor« t4M« Bnd)iUlt-Atnt,tt v;inv^\Atc\n«i'w4« 



Bottte 9.] 

ten timai mf>n 
for Ibsb ilH. 



QBNOA- 

kibls. Brsi 



»<>d portico, elcren pannlli, by Vandirck, L'nm 

Jowph BDd tbs Chiet Butler, by B. Stroiil 

•/^aaoBrignoli-Salt, at Palaia Rouo (Bed) 
Via Ndois. Ko. U, one of Ibo Iwst In Gonoii. 



HulyFrnrlly! Qolilo'ii St. SotHHlbi 
. niiitidi:d lh« Duke q( OnlMeru, 



eino> Mjucdnlenei Dnvld Tith Oo]la1h-> tlenrl. Hci 
C.Hanini'i HBirlHiie of St-CnthFiiiie; Holbelii'i 
Gutvlii: Ripbiol'gHolyFttmtly! Guldo'-Sl.Luke 
ana ■ SI^gil«lBt1c; Ihree pnrtmHs ^ Vmilj-ck j 

'Pal-Tio Cfi-v. In Via NnoTiv bnllt liy Aleisl, 
Isoneof thelnr^HiinEl teatlnCcnoai bmliiga 
■qoare (ront 83 lent btond. snil »S tcel high, dl- 

l™ Cmitello; P.VeroneWs Adornllimof thoMnBl: 
ntlnn'a Herodlai with the Bopllnt'i head. 

Palaiio Doria. occiipj-lii(tiinob!c»lleontbonorth 
tide of the nort, near tbe DancnH and laUwiy, 
but DOW nogkctcd. It will rebuilt by Monlosorll, 
......_ ..._ _.. J .... ..jiunjjto oilu ijniosceret" {he 



iDlKht et 



dV«ga,who.u 
llunol. and hU I 






f ft bronie tablet, found at Folnvorru, In lED. on 

lonufttao and Vccturll. a< aol^d by the Boman 
ulhorllioi (A.U.C. «SB), the rivers and inountaino 

enoa a> old as Il«l. 

'PabUBi Dtaalt or daria Cilia, x tim and msenl- 



an Conslgllo, are planter 

Iho repobllMns hi 179T. 
' good Flemish painting i 
itoRraph) of Colombll^ a 

iver, elabued by Cegolete. 
Id. or della Scala. In Vis 
tlauco. and enlarjted I^ 



It liMD feet tone, ai 
Nymph) i Gne ■ 
Money: P 



AlW'IlD luid (he M 

DomeDlefaliio'a Cb 
and St. Scbasllan 
large collctllon of 



tt and Mary In 



InBalhl. "Thonebu 



large and cold. It haa an onaii cwrldw and two 
:n«nd marble italrcBKi by Foiitana; acallecllon 
jf paintings; Hpagnolello a Frlnr; a p'>rtralt by 



a Lady, by Bulxns! another by BoUlnl; 
1'jLnlherandhl.WUe. 
M LcHacI Jmptriatt. or fan^l, boltt by 
Hero are arabesquea, aaid to be by Car- 
d painllngg by L. d'Olando. tu:. 



.'tB)n> nutegraphi of Colombna and A. Doris, tma i •poloHO PollonWal, St. N-* *^»*''' 'J^SSZ^ 
^timoot/Wcmrr^ Tbjj.if, t wije In (lulling i Ml. ■Vm\4^9'*:»V^*'*-'**'^**"'^ ^^^^ 



26 



BBADSHAW*S ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



Coriolanas; Franceschinrs Sacrifice of Abraham, 
Virgin and Child, Bathsbeba in the Bath, and Birth 
of Adonis; A. Carraoci's Magdalene; L. Carraoci's 
Dream of Joseph: Guercino's Music, and his St. 
Jerome; StrozzPs St. Francis and Madonna at 
Prayer— (Strozzi is called the " Prete Genovese." 
or Genoese priest); Raphaers Madonna della 
Colonna; Albano*8 Diana and Actaeon; Rubens' 
Angel and St. Peter; A. Diirer's Descent from the 
Cross. Here tickets for Villa Pallavlcinit at Pegli, 
belonging to the same owner, may bo obtained. 

Palazzo Pesehiera, built by Alesai, with frescoes 
by Semini, stands in a spot commanding a fine 
Tiew, and has many fishponds (whence the name) 
in its beautiful gardens. It was for a time occu- 
pied by Dickens ; who also resided at Villa Bella- 
vista. 

Palazxo Saluzzi^ called " Paradise," outside 
Porta Pill, has frescoes by Tavarone, and was the 
•eat of Lord Byron the year before his death. 
Lady Westmoreland lived in it afterwards. 

Palazzo Sauli or Saole^ by Alessi, is one of the 
largest and most pleasing here, but neglected. It 
consists of a central block, with the wings thrown 
forward, in two storeys, with arches between. 
" There is more light and shade, and more variety 
of design in this palace than in any in Genoa; 
and if its details were a little more pure, it might 
challenge comparison, in some respects, with any 
in Italy." — Fergtuson. 

*Palazzo Serra, Via Nuova, No. 49, built by 
Alessi, and restored by Tagliafichi. Its saloon is 
so richly gilt and decorated with marble, glass, 
tapestry, &c., that it is called the Palace of the 
Sun (del Sole). The gildhig was done by melting 
down many thousands of sequins. "The Serra 
Palace boasts the finest saloon in Europe. This 
celebrated object is oval in plan — the elevation a 
rich Corinthian ; the walls are covered with gold 
and looking-glass; the floor consists of a polished 
mastic stained like oriental breccia. Here the 
ceiling oorrows and lends beauty to the splendour 
below." — Forsyth. 

Palazzo Ferdinando Spinola^ formerly Palazzo 
Grimaldi, in Via Nuova, built by Alessi. It has 
a great hall and staircase, Vandyck's portraits 
(one on a horse), Titian*8 Venus, and Bellinrs 
Madonna. % 

Palcuzo Giovanni Battista Spinola^ near the 
Piazza Fontane Amorosa. Here are Vandyck's 
Madonna ; L. Giordano's Destruction of Troy, and 
the Samaritan; Lesueur's Joseph before Pharaoh; 
Guido's St. Sebastian, Magdalene, and Flight into 
^flTypt; Domenichino's Family of Tobias; Borgog- 
none's Sacrifice of Abraham ; Wael's Landscapes; 
Parmegianino's Adoration of the Magi. 

Palazzo ManimiHano Sptnola, or Palazzo Taglia- 
vaeeht, in Via Santa Catarinn, is ornamented 
with some of L. Cambiaso's early frescoes. 

"Thereny merit of the Genoese palaces if that 
^^ u^d ther mn merely de^rntfopt. PUUn «r« 



never introduced when not wanted, and, above all, 
are always the principal feature of the design, and 
always at the top of the wall— attics being almost 
unknown in Genoa; and windows are only intro- 
duced when and where they are wanted. With 
these elements it in diflficult to fail; and Alessi 
only wanted a little more elegance in designing 
his details, and a little better material to work 
with, in order to have attained a great success. 
The last-mentioned is, in fact, one of the principal 
defects of the Genoese buildings, though not the 
fault of the architect ; for, though it is usual for 
tourists to talk of the * marble* palaces of Genoa, 
it is a melancholy fact that, except some of the 
black atid white medisBval edifices, there is not a 
single facade in the city built wholly of that 
material.'' — Fergusson. 

The Villa Giuttiniani, outside the walls, is a very 
harmonious pile, by Alessi, having an ancient 
granite Isis in the grounds. 

VUletta di Negro stands in a fine spot, and has a 
small Natural History Museum. 

Villa Scoglietto is another charming seat, with 
orange gardens, grottoes, &c. The Palazzo dei 
Padri delle Commune (fathers of the city) is now 
used by the Chamber of Commerce. 

In Via Balbi, opposite the Royal Palace, is 
the Palazzo delV UnivertitU, founded by the Balbi 
family, having a fine court, with frescoes, bronzes, 
and statues by Giovanni di Bologna, and a public 
Library of 70,000 volumes, containing a Hebrew 
Bible in seven folio volumes, wii h coins, &c. There 
are also a royal college, priests* aeminary, com- 
munal schools, school of navigation, and a marine 
hospital. 

In Piazza Deferrari is the *Aecademia di Belle 
Arti (fine arts), founded by the Dorias. It has a 
collection of sculptures and pictures, and a public 
library of 40,000 volumes; open daily. In the 
Piazza Acquaverdo, near the marine college, is an 
Armoury^ in which are shown a wooden cannon, 
bound with copper, taken from the Venetians in 
the war of Chioggia, 1872-81, and the rostrum or 
beak of a Roman galley, which made a figure, 
according to tradition, in the Carthaginian attack 
on Genoa. 

The new Teatro Carlo Felice^ or Opera House, 
in the Piazza Deferrari, was built in 1828 by 
C. Baradino, and is large and remarkably hand- 
some, especially the portico, staircase, saloon, Ac. 
Other Theatres are the Paganini, Politeama 
Oenovese. and Politeama Regina Margherita. 

One of the most extensive charitable institutions 
Is the Albergode'Poveri (Poor House), on the north- 
east side of the city, founded in 1654 by Emmanuel 
Brignole, for the benefit of the infirm, the aged, 
orphans, the unfortunate, Ac, who are employed 
in work. It is a tall pile, 560 feet square, with a 
front 120 feet high in the middle; behind which 
are four courts and a chapel, where you see the 
Ascension by Piola. a statue of the Virgin by 
Puget, and M. Angelo's fine Pieth or Dead Christ. 

The vast Otpedale di Pammaione, one of the finest 
building! In Genoa, Vftive&T the Acquasola, an^^f^f 



Houte 9.] 



GEKOA — ^PALACES, TILLA8. 



27 



bnilt for B. Bosco, 1420, by A. Orsolino, for the 
MM of sick persont, Ijin^-in wmnen, and orphans. 
It has a statue of the boy Ballllo, who figured at 
the rising against the French, 174ft. Outside the 
walls is the Casa di Recuvero dei Paxxi (Home of 
Recorery for Lunatics), founded 1888, for 800 
patients. The hospital for Incurables, in the Via 
Giulia, has a portico with marble statues; four 
rooms for fifty each; and a Last Sapper by 
Cambiaso. 

A Sordo-Mutiy or Deaf and Dumb Asylum, was 
founded 1801, by Father Assarotti, on Monte di S. 
Bartolommeo. A Maniconiio, or Lunatic Asylum, 
was built 1884-41, on the east hills, near Porta 
Pilla, in the shape of a star. Noceti's Infimt 
Asylum was founded by a rich merchant. At 
fSampierdarena (S. Pier d; Arena, page 31) is the 
OoTemment Tobacco Factory. 

The Contervatorio ddle Fieichine was founded, 
1768, by the Fieschi family, as an asylum for 
orphan girls, who learn to weave, embroider, and 
make artificial flowers, Ac. Many similar estab- 
lishments are under the Sisters of St. Catherine. 
There is a Protestant Hospital for sailors, well 
"deserving of support from English visitors. 

The people are simple in their manners, but have 
a great reputation for cunning; they are essen- 
tially commercial in their habits and instincts, as 
is to be expected from their having so long held 
pre-eminence as the greatest merchants and 
bankers, and as the most adventurous mariners of 
Europe. The women are well shaped ; the poorer 
•dress in a long mezzano or veil. There is a good 
•display of costume at their Casazze, or religious 
-processions, especially in Holy Week. 

The language is a dialect of the Italian, with 
a numher of Spanish and French words. It has 
no «; they slur the /, /, and v; saying "rffo" 
for dito; ^''noo'"' for nolo, and such like; and they 
drop the final syllable in words like beutione, which 
they sound bastion. A collection of Genoese poems 
has been made in G. J. Cavalli's "Chittara." 

Adrian V. was bom here, as well as Andrea Dorla, 
find Columbus already mentioned. The illustrious 
navigator, who, according to his epitaph at Valla- 
dolid, "gave a new world to Castile and Leon," 
was the son of a weaver named Colomlx). Paganini, 
another native, bequeathed his violin to his native 
city. Mazzini was bom here, 1808. 

" On the I'ith of May, 1859, the year of the Italian 
war, the French Emperormade hisentry into Genoa, 
the superb queen of the Ligfurian Sea. At dawn of 
that day, the Genoese people were busily engaged 
In erecting triumphal arches, and in adorning the 
balconies of their white marble palaces with velvet 
■draperies and fresh flowers. The women were in a 
delirium of joyful expectation, and one might have 
said that their only occupation consisted in inter- 
weaving the laurel leaf with the spotless camellia 
of their gardens. When I go back In thonght to 
,the evening of that day, and think of the magnifi-> 
cent city of Genoa— unquestionably one of the most 
beautiful towns of the south, and perhaps superior 
to all 0!tb»r«, Bxceptlngr Naples and ConitHPtinopl^ 



— I experience once more the ideal luxury I then 
enjoyed in the ancient seat of stately Doges and 
trlumphan t warriors. The weal her, too, was in har- 
mony with the occasion. Shakespeare might have 
derived the inspiration of that famous line- 
How sweet the moonlight sleeps upon this iMiik— > 
from the lustre of the whit e Italian orb which shone 
that night upon the gardens of the Doria Palace, 
and the numberless arched loggie of the marble 
buildings of the Contrada Baibi. The picturesque 
hills which skirt both sides of the valley of Bisagno, 
with their elegant villas, were in a blaze of light, 
from the point of Rebizzo's Casino — the most 
hospitable of all— to the far-famed Villetta di 
Negro ; and nothing was wanted to complete the 
beauty of the scene."— Count Abrivabsnb's Italy 
and Victor Emmanuel. 

Some of the manufactures carried on here are gold 
filigree work, chains, ear-rings, brooches, &c., such 
as the Maltese and Venetians are noted for ; silver 
plate, wood and marble carvings ; inlaid cups and 
boxes, from fig-tree wood; works in copper, ivory, 
and coral articles ; damasks, velvets, guipure lace, 
silk, ribbons, cotton, hats, flowers, soap, tobacco, 
paper, macaroni or pasta ; all these, with rice, oil, 
olives, fruits, oranges, citrons, &c., the produce 
of both Rivieras, are exported to the value of 
£8,000.000 a year; the imports, including raw silk 
from South Italy, Ac, cotton from the Levant, 
linen from North Europe, amount to £16,000,000. 
An excursion may be made by the rail to the 
west, or by omnibus, to the 

• Villa Pallavidni, at Peoli, about half-way. 
Tickets are got at the Pallavicini Palace, in Genoa; 
a fee of 1 f r. is given to the gardener. It is a sort 
of show place in a fantastic style, adorned by its 
wealthy owner with English, Italian, Turkish, and 
Chinese gardens; greenhouses, containing tropical 
plants; a Roman arch, marble temples, obelisks, 
pagodas; a wonderful grotto, with a stalactite arch; 
a lake, with dolphin-shaped boats, porcelain seats, 
and porpoises in the form of squirting jets of water; 
but one of the best things about it is a glorious 
prospect of the sea and mountains from the model 
castle, at the highest point of the gardens. 

At Villa Spinola, the seat of bis friend. Colonel 
Vecchi, Garibaldi resided, before his expedition to 
Sicily, in I860, upon the outbreak of the insurrection 
againstthe Bourbons. "I never advised this Sicilian 
movement," he said, "but since our brethren are 
fighting, it is my duty to go to Ihe rescue." His 
motto was, "Italy and Victor Emmanuel!" A regu- 
lar crusade began ; ofi[icers and men came in by 
thousands from all parts of Italy, and embarked un- 
der the very noses of the authorities, who could not 
(and perhaps did not wish to) stop it; such was the 
magic of Garibaldi's name. Ships cleared out with 
saltpetre, rifles, and muskets, which were entered as 
"soda," "chincaglieria" (hardware), and "ferra- 
reccla" (old iron). He embarked 5th May, In two 
steamers, with 1,067 tried men, leavltui B««\^aB5w -^s^. 
his agents to {orww^T<\xv\w<swaiSN\V«k. '^^^^^S^ 



BBADgHAW'B HALT. [SCCtlOIl I. 

e Tawnn bord«M, lo orpii.l.c ThcnM lo IiivantO (BUt); an old jwrt on a 

hilthcst en Iho rrmd. 1.3J0 ha. above th« teC 



iMsaomiluiiofSicilv, iindinl:'IdjiJ-shEo.ervnlUll,j 
■two aLciUB^ and Imnded uvcr «iifw kii^gdim, wiih 
nloa nil I lion B o( ^nbJect^ to Victor Emnisnuol. 

R.OTTXE lO. 

OMioa, br ttie Blvlen <U LeTaute, to Bpeiia, 

Lucca, Pisa, Leghorn, and Florence. 



Bradiliaic't Conliiunla/ ( 



Pisa, Ac 



■ It li . 
.) Chief 



(Sm 



ireiiy 10 



e( hlsh nl 



lid Hotel BiidFciuloaAiidaiK. 

'heinclenlRMnD, on IhtVin 
"n (popolslloii, 4.S6fl). wilb I 



„ , jotwoeii oamogii 

id Sta. Horslierlta Uraid: BellernO, Is S.m 
yotds lor- 



n Hills. 
1 ( " ■ ■ 

' Bapiillocstat) Poi>i 

r. It jniiilDi 



™,ll,OTO.(H-o(sr;Do 
I. Anold place, and > 
— ■ ipmillo 



«ld°Dtchy"nM 

Hf oce. by roai 
hlsh, whore ve 



I* SpMla (fltat.) 



(iSlt ""■ °" 



•pleuiid' illoatloii, full 


outh, 


onrlooUni tb* 
oC the fiotel; 


Hit. btaDlKiil nrden 1 




Grand Holol d'ltBllo. 






EiflUk FfM-Cmuitf; E<iglUh Ch 


urch Bii-ria. 


SpHL-lsa^rowlngna. 




fiToorite winler 


reioit. and batbine-nlaca 


(IBpn 


atlon. wHh .ul.- 


nrb>,3H7ai>,wllhav«y 


fineN 


v^il Antunl and 


Dorli-yard. and a hartm 




BO Horoa In.fdo 




andee 










is llie lOO-luii Gun, luado 


IS 'si 


W. Armnrong, 


M feet long, m Inch bote 


.iirin 


at.lHIOIb, ahnt. 


with MO 11* ofpowdor. 




at the hiud of 


hoteaolifulSjistaav. 


liillea 


by4,aa[»,deep. 


■nd well guarded by lo 
and inrronuaBd by illlaa. 


. bn t by NaKrfeuii, 


Ruins 


of the old uills 


of St George. La Poila 






rising ODt<.nba»a. Spo 






Limic. or£ri;di,glTlneiiniDetoL 




Shelley, the poe^ with bl 


fr?™'d7lvKr.'m*™ 



herewaaabonafmaiieyuii board. Hit body wna 
mrnton llio sbore by Byron.and the aaht. were 






lAvacna <Btat.>, i 






'^SS^'SV*"-"™"" *"/""■'• From'ben'tbe Shod Una W Po»ireiioli, near tha JIfoaf 
"^'"f "omiiwani^ jNiit Kontglia (SUA.) I Vlini,oYWlhe ApTO<iVi«i,a,*»to*^^\tfi. 



Boute 11.] 



BIVIEBA, SPEZIA, CARBABA, MILAN. 



29 



The line to Pisa crosses the wide bed of the 
Magra by a viaduct, -which with the new bridge 
for the road, is made especially strong to resist the 
i-An»n frnm f^f, /i^pcnnincs. Old 



i 



1- 



I 



mnch of it to the United States, where it is in 
great request. In Roman times it was called Luna 
marble, that being the nearest place to the quarry; 
and ma n y blocks and half -worked marble? prc- 
~ ■ — ■ ■ ■ ■ I d here, 

figores 
. cd near 
►rs have 
iglio is 
ves and 
isit.] 
ulntion, 
ead of a 
den a at 
I a trade 
, with a 
a Eli^a; 
lar, and 
Princess 
. Massa 
ons. 

cnnincs. 

11,100. 

;hc8 and 

particu- 

\e grahi. 

y Dona- 

f the ex- 

15miles 

but its 

ite 24.) 

bathing 

nder the 

Anglo- 

At the 

iths. 

Serchio, 






;glore. 

j'Crmans. 
And Mail 



first-class 
ly recom- 

> Vittorio 
Dmmcndcd. 

. } the public 

•ictor, well 

lel. 

.idc attached 



h 



i.. wvA iney are lucnwriieu lu uunwn. viu^* 
to the water, side at Avenxa. Above 120,000 tons, 
ia cargoes of &0 tons each, are shipped yearly, 



ark. 



SMite 11.] 



BIVIEBA, SPEZIA, CARBABA, MILAN. 



29 



Jim line to Pisa crosses the wide bed of the 
Mnm by a viaduct, which with the new bridge 
BUM road, is made especially strong to resist the 
Bsttntain Jtorrents from the Apennines. Old 
istles on the distant heights. 
tonana (Stat.), population, 8,964, a bishop's 
le, is the birth-place of Pope Nicholas V., the 
jhnder of the Vatican Library; and was the 
Iginal seat of the Bonaparte family, which 
rured here as a branch of the Counts Cadulonghi, 
tfore it settled in Corsica. Sarzana, when it 
une under the power of Ocnoa, in 1424 (by cx- 
lange for Leghorn), was granted to the banking 
•rporatiou of S. Giorgio, in that city. Besides a 
leatrc, hospital, Ac, it contains a handsome 
arble Duomo, with some fi-etworlc brought from 
>e ruins of Luna — an old Etruscan city up the 
Agra, which has yielded many pavemcnti<. marbles, 
^uzes, inscriptions, &c., and was a bishop's sec 
U 1465, when it was transferred to Sarzaua. 
" But hark ! tho cry la Astur, 
And lo ! the rank* divide. 
And the great Lord of Luna 
Comes with his stately stride.**- MACAULxr. 
The district, still called Lunigiana, was divide^ 
fetween Modcna, Sardinia, and Tuscany. 
Cross the River Parmignola, on the old frontier 
f llassa, or Modena, to 

AveDZa (Stat.), population, 3,254, which has 
fine old castle and a port at the mouth of the 
Arrone, vv hence Carrara marble is shipped . Gre-at 
loclcs of this marble, which is the kind most pre- 
kfred by sculptors, are brought down by immense 
Hen, noted for their grey and white coloured 
bining skins, and large, soft, patient eyes. Branch 
Ml to Carrara, 8 miles distant. 

[Carrara (Stat.) A town to the left (popuia- 

lon, 11,870), under the purple and red hills, abounds 
fiih blocks of white marble, strewn on all sides, 
tul with shops full of ornaments for sale. 
In Piazza Albcrica is a fountain with a statue 
f Duchess Beatrice of the Cibo family, who, by 
er marriage in 1741 with the Duke of Modena, 
arried this little Duchy of 80 square miles of 
aountain, with that of Massa, into the Estc family, 
t contains a fine Cathedra!, marble of course, of 
he fourteenth and fifteenth centuries; Madonna 
telle Grazie Church with some gcod marbles in it ; 
i. Giacomo Hospital; and an Academy of Sculp- 
ttre, founded by Princess Elisa, Napoleon's sister, 
md provided with casts and medals, placed in her 
Ratofc, which she gave up for the purpose. 

The white Carrara marble, so called from the old 
liatin quarrante (whence our old English word 
inarry), is found in inexhaustible quantities in the 
ower ridges of Monte Sagro and Monte Crestpla, 
lear the Rivers Torano, Bedizzano, &c, which 
anite near Carrara, in the Carone. Within a few 
Odiles there arc above 400 quarries; those of Cima, 
Crestola, Palvaccio, Zampone, &c.,givingthe finest 
for sculpture. Above 6,000 men are employed in 
the quanies and water mills by which the blocks 
•ra sawn. They are then carried in bullock carts 
to the water, side at Avenxa. Above 120,(;00. tons, 
la cargoes of &0 tons each| are shipped ye&rly, 



much of it to the United States, where it is in 
great request. In Roman ti mes it was called Luna 
marble, that being the nearest place to the quarry; 
and many blocks and half-worked marble? pre- 
pared for removal to Rome were found here, 
and the name of fantiscritti, from some figures 
of Jupiter. Bacchus, and Hercules, carved near 
them, on which some ancient Roman visitors have 
left their names. A voriety called bardiglio is 
streaked with blue and jmrple The Caves and 
their spars of the purcbt water deserve a visit.] 

Massa (Stat.), or Massa Ducaie (population, 
19,000), in the Valley of the Frigido. The head of a 
Duchy, which was incorporated with Modena at 
the besrinning of this century. It cairics on a trade 
in marble; and contains a fine old castle, with a 
Palace formerly inhabited by the Princess Elim; 
the Church of S. Pletro, the Mercnrio Pillar, and 
the Kite only of a cathedral, which the Princess 
razed to improve the pros]^ctfrom her seat. Massa 
has a mild climate and is noted for its melons. 

Pass the Castle of Montignoso on the Apennines. 

Pletra-Santa (Stat.) Population, ii,ioo. 

The Roman Lucus Feronise, with two churches and 
a campanile, and many marble quarries, particu- 
larly that of Saravezza, known for its fine grain. 
The Church of S. Marti ^o has bronzes by Dona* 
tcllo. This town is within the bounds of the ex- 
tinct Duchy of Lucca; and Lucca is about 15 miles 
dibtant by a road through Montramito, but its 
Baths are about 20 miles oast. (See Route 24.) 

ViaregglO (Stat.), near the sea. A bathing 
place (population, 5,000). in a pine forest under the 
Apennines. Hotels: Corona; Russie; Anglo- 
America in. English Church Service. At the 
Bagni di Nerone are remains of Roman baths. 

Torre del LagO (Stat.), near tho Serchio, 
which ascends past Lucca, to its baths. 

Pisa (Stat.) See Route 23. 

I^OXJTE 11- 

Milan to Qallarate and Lake Magglore. 
MILAN (Stat.), - 

Mildno of the Italians, Mailand of the Germans. 
It gave name to the Milainersor Milliners^ and Mail 
armour, for both of which -it was famous. 

Hotels: — 

Grand Hotel de Milan, the largest first-class 
hotel of Milan. Great comfort. Highly recom- 
mended. 

Hotel de TEurope, situated Corso Vittorio 
Emanueic, 9 and 11. Deservedly recommended. 
See Advt. 

Hotel Cavour, Place Cavonr, opposite the public 
gardens, good accommodation. 

Hotel de la Ville, J. Baer. proprietor, well 
situated, on the Corso Victor Emmanuel. 

Hotel de Grande Bretagne. The Guide attached 
to this hotel is recommended. 

Grand Hotel Continental. 

Grand Hotel Manin, opposite the park. 

Hotel de Fronco, 19, Conrs Victor Emmanuel. 

Hotel de Rome. 

Hot©\H€ltovQ\v,'aQV)«^^'QA\Wi\VLOc«Sv^««fia^s^ 



Onllciii Victor : 



illRhtlr denrer. OmnlbotM: IdcenU percourwi 
frem tbe rillffi; Kitloni, IB amtt. 

Hatdal Bn^Wi VUt-Ciini«l. 

Engliili Oivreh aerc/ce.S, Via Andegiil. 

Xagliih finntcra.— Olrlch and Co,; Flock and 
SeharblDa, S, Via AndegiTt 

Poal Qprs. m, Via Raitrelll; M hoori from 
London. TelegnpA^ 10« Fiaiza de' Hercantl- 

Btllwsy auuiimt. CcnlTal. near Porta Nnorai 
Erbi. n<ar tbo Cait«1ls. for Saronno, LarcDO, Ac. 



mXh'i »°°he I 



wLdfl, fflrtlEo, andwelHrrlfaledpLalnof Lbmbardf, 
bctmen tb« Olona and Lnmbro. IS diIIcb from Iha 
Fo. to whicb tbey nm. The CoDnli M. Marcollui 
and C. BcIdIo took II In i.e. 33). trom tbe Insobrca 
In Cltalplhe Oaul. and called It VvMolantm, from 

In 313. Issued bit decree declaHng all religion* 



ofPrina.NMW 


un'a ml nil 


itar. 3inii A 


prli. 


SIS. 






e capital 




r Linn. 


li."'trJ'"nd"l' 


kmgdom. 


Two rli 


Tt't, 


-jcurred 


driven oumfle 


f^.o^"d»^ 


■ flBlilfng 








or Emm 


AugaM, 


he Eniietor-a 


binhilay. Vic 




enirr 


h«re Anijiut 






>^^tr«.ty of 


Vlllafrancx 


It' gOVE 








Hon waa the 


■bbi and 


dlitfngula 






d'Ai9Ello,oncl 


to tbe tat 


Italian A 




adorat 


London. Very 










then chBng«.i 








ricbeat 




Tbeano 


wyAlpia 








aplrea. tb 




dnuirk 


from all lidee, 




be midst 


tbe 






ftheoWcitv: wbkb 






by a brsncliDf tbe NivlgU 


Grande. 






r™!.w; 


e. Thlsca 






■by the 








on each 


sMs. Beyond 1 










to .bo biSione 






llM 





old town contradc fronlrodfl, 


street; and calle 


(ealla. a lajie), Iraprore In tbe n 




the be« bouaoa are found, and 


9 Ihcy widen take 




ae) i they are bow- 








treeu art known 


by the name of Pi* and tho. 


onlslde, iklrUoe 


lbcbattlo„.,a.Pia(f, 










« Charles Albert 


Tho Vlclor Emmano.i «rca 






■;'!!'.™"fH 



he cleanoBl city In Italy, 
be bouse) are dlsgnliaa 
el!,caatlea.andCblne« 



Is open to the Leonardo da Vlncl PHiiai a LoErta 
Realc. by Mennonl, faces It, That of Plana For- 



The CnnicHM are uanally ahnl from twelve lo 
tbree. Of all the bolldlnfs, tbe mart itllHng !• 
tta* mvblft, eiH>4li^«d 



Boute ILI 



MILAN— CHtmCHSS • 



di 



most remarkable church in Italy, after St. Peter's, 
at Rome, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is 
for the most part In the florid Gothic style, with a 
proftisloti of spires and niched statues. There are 
100 of the former, and 7,000 of the latter, of which 
2,400 have been put up in the last twelve years, 
one of the latest being the statue of Victor Em- 
manuel. Visitors are recommended to see it first 
bymoonlight, if possible. Though begun by G. 
G. Visconti, Duke of Milan, as far back as 1386, it 
Is still unfinished, after various additions and 
alterations from the original design, which seems 
to be due to H. Ahrler, a German. In fact, it is 
in a continual state of repair, in terms of a deed 
under whidi a certain sum is spent annually upon 
the edifice. Length, S71 feet; width, 226 feet; 
height of the aisles, 9'2 feet; of the nave, 1S2 feet 
(about 150 to the vaulting); of the cupola, 197 
feet (or 860 feet to the top of the spire). The front 
is an elaborate piece of work, much broken up by 
small doors, and many windows, in a Gothicised 
Roman style, little harmonising with the scale of 
splendour of the interior. This part was restored 
iu Napoleon's time, and decorated with statues and 
baa-re)iefs. On each side of the middle door are 
two eolumns, each of an enormous granite block, 
from Baveno, 85 feet high, carrying statues of 
8. Carlo Borromeo (by Monti) and Marchesi. A 
stained window above contains the Assumption, by 
Bertini, a modem window painter, who died 1849. 
The interior, though ill lighted, is vast and impos- 
ing, being a clear space from end to end, onlv 
interrupted by the great clustered pillars which 
support the vault. There are fifty-two of them, 
69 feet higbi, 20 feet round the base, and covered 
with niched figures, foliage, tracery, &c. They 
divide the body into two aisles, on each side of the 
nave, and one on each side of the transepts. 

The pavement is of chequered marble. There 
are tombs of archbishops, the Visconti, ttc, and 
two popes, Martin V. and Pius IV. Round the 
pulpits are bronzes of the four evangelists, and 
four fathers, by Brambilla. In Pellegrini's choir 
are seventeen bas-reliefs of great excellence. The 
bronze tabernacle of the high altar is another 
work by Brambilla. Here they keep a nail of the 
true cross, which is carried in procession on the 
8rd of May, the anniversary of the great plague of 
Milan, in which its excellent archbishop, San 
' Carlo Borromeo, figared so worthily. He died in 
1584, and his body is preserved here. His rich gold 
md silver shrine is in a shrine below, where he 
it seen dressed up in pontifical robes, sparkling 
with diamonds, and his head resting on a g^ilded 
cushion. He was the nephew of Pius IV., and 
was canonised by his successor; which cost his 
fainlly so large a sum, that they declined to ask 
for a similar honour for his cousin. Cardinal Fred. 
B<Mrromeo, the one celebrated by Manzoni, in the 
Promesti ^M>ti. 

An inscription at the east end of the cathedral 
giTM a list of the relic* belonging to it, among 
ulrtflh 99% Christ's cradl# and swaddling clothes; 
|»Mrt of the toweJ wjtb wbScb be wiped bis div 



ciples' feet ; four thorns of his crown ; parts of i ho 
reed, the cross, the sponge, and the spear ; and 
one of the nails; a piece of Moses' rod; two of 
Elisha's teeth ; and so on. A charge of 5 lire is 
made for showing the relics of S. Carlo Borromeo. 

"One of the most popular religious books is the 
FHotea, published by one of the confessors to the 
cathedral. It is full of legendary fables and sells 
by thousands. Every disorder of every part of 
the human body has a saint , to whom the patient 
may pray for a cure." — Dr. Wordsvorth. 

Here also are St. Carlo's statue, and that of St. 
Ambrose, besides eight pictures, ^c, of the events 
of St. Carlo's life. Behind the choir is a curious 
anatomical statue of St. Bartholomew, by Agrati, 
in the act of being flayed. The Treasury (admis- 
sion, 1 lira) contains an enamelled gospel and a 
diptych of very ancient date, and a statue of 
Christ by C. Solari. 

In the Medici Chapel is a tomb, designed by M. 
Angelo ; built by Pope Paul IV., to his brother. 
Some of the pictures are worth notice from being 
on glass. High up is the portrait of the principal 
architect, witl^ the inscription, "I. O. Antonius 
Homodeus Venere Pabrice, ML. I., Architectus," in 
a circle. About 530 marble steps bring us at 
length (past Brambilla's statues of Adam and Eve) 
to the gallery round the spire, whence there is a 
noble view over the whole plain of the Po, as far 
as Mont Blanc, Mont Rosa, the Stelvio Pass, Ac. 
Charge, 25c.; guide, 1 lira. The cathedral is open 
all day. 

** It wants chiaro-scuro, and some of its details, 
especially in the f a9ade, and the Roman erection 
on the roof of the nave, greatly impair the effect. 
But who can describe the interior? After the 
light and somewhat tawdry decorations of many 
other Continental churches, this magnificent 
cathedral, especially when entered from the subter- 
ranean passage which leads from the archbishop's 
palace, produces a powei'ful impression on the 
mind, by its vast size, its lofty proportions, its 
solemn gloom and sublime grandeur, and the rich 
hues of its stained glass windows. It seems as if 
the ancient spirit of religion, such as dwelt in 
Milan in the days of St. Ambrose, loved to linger 
here. The inscription, which is conspicuous on 
the rood loft, ^Attendite ad Petram undo excisi 
estes' (Look unto the Rock whence ye were hewn), 
is very significant. There are side altars, but not 
prominent as in many churches." — Dr. Wonbicorth. 

The large windows at the east end are modern, 
stained with subjects from the Bible, especially the 
Revelatinn,8ome by Bertini; and replace those which 
were shattered by the cannonading of 1805. at the 
time when Napoleon was crowned King of Italy. 

The choir has no screen. At the intersection of 
the nave and transepts are the large ambos or 
pulpits, from which the gospel and epistle are read. 
The Ambrosian liturgy, which the Pope has never 
been able to abolish, is a standtix^ v^<»«A <A *c^^ 
independence oi t>aft\\^«s«»fcC\s!W^. '*'^*''^2^SS^ 
use tt%^ BoiftwitVX»A ii» w*. ia*f«^^;;^^S 
except oiv very ut^twX wft«A«a»- viw*— 



82 



BBJLOSHAW*8 ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



tcachiiijBr is carried on every Sunday. The whole 
of the facade is to undergo restoration, tlie plans 
having already been approved. 

In 1859, the day of the Battle of Magenta, Arch- 
bishop Ballcrini was nominated to the see by the 
Emperor of Austria; the appointment did not take 
effect, and Caccia was chosen by the chapter as 
VIcar-Gcncral ; he afterwards retired to Monza. 
At the end of 1862 there were thirty-four vacant 
sees out of the 257 in the new Italian kingdom. 

On the 1st June, the national anniversary, or 
Festa dello Statuto^ is celebrated with great splen- 
dour. 

A Societh Eedesiastica was founded here in 1859, 
and consists of 200 members, the object of 
which is to cultivate religious studies, especially 
those which have a practical influence on the social 
welfare of the people; but, laudable as it seems, it 
was denounced by the Ultramontane journals 
as schismatical and revolutionary. 

Sta. Maria deJJe Orazie, in Corso Pta. Magenta, 
attached to the old Dominican Friary (now a bar- 
rack), was built 1468-98, by Leonardo da Vinci's 
patron, Duke Ludovico II Moro, and has a Gothic 
nave, with apicturesque cupola added by Bramante, 
65 feet diameter, supported by semicircular tri- 
bunes, *'and which externally and internally is 
one of the most pleasing specimens of its class to 
be found anjrwhere." — Fergusson. 

It has frescoes by G. Ferrari, &c., and (in the 
refectory, entrance to which is by a door to the 
west of the church) the traces of the famous 
Cenacolo, or *La»t Supper of Da Vinci, painted in 
fresco on the wall, 1497-1500 (some say sixteen years 
altogether), but now so decayed, partly from sub- 
sequent il (treatment, as to be hardly noticeable. 
Thcfacesof the Saviour and St. Thomas are visible, 
the latter with a face worse than Judas's. Twelve 
copies, however, are extant, the best of which is by 
Oggioni (1510), at the Royal Academy, London ; 
while the engravings have made the design of it 
universally known. The great painter established 
n School of Arts here, and lived on an estate near 
the Porta Vercellina, close by, given him by the 
Duke. 

*St. Ambrogio (Ambrose), In Piazza St. Ambro- 
gio ; built by Archbishop Anspertns in the ninth 
century, of brick. In a very early Romanesque or 
Byzantine style (on the site of one founded 887 by 
St. Ambrose, in honour of two martyrs), and con- 
sists of two naves of equal size; one forming a 
court or Atrium to the other or principal nave, in 
which is a brass serpent on a granite pillar (said to 
be the very, one put up by Moses in the Wilderness), 
and a very ancient tomb with curious bas-reliefs. 
This Atrium, in which the people asked alms and 
performed penance, is bordered by an arcade, and 
has many tablets and inscriptions, some of them 
being Greek mixed with Latin. The ancient 
pillar, at which the Lombard kings took the 
coroji/ttion oath, is preserved in the Piazza. Here 
*«^' ■^'"^''o^^ Jbaptiaed Bt. An^elbert, and sang 
f^€f S-rsrnf 7^ jf^ff^ ^auOtrmiaf Mcrlbed to Wm. 



Among the remarkable things to be found in this 
church are the ancient pulpit; the splendid Shrine 
(shown for 5 Ir.) of gold and silver, a remarkable 
specimen of metal work (done 835), adorned with 
inscriptions and coloured reliefs of Augustine's 
life, Ac, and covered with a beautiful canopy; the 
very old chapel behind his choir, and its twelve 
curious Byzantine mosaics on a gold ground. 

The Ambrosian service book is of vellum, very 
ancient, in six folio volumes, richly illuminated, 
with the musical notes. The large marble ambo, 
or pulpit, is adorned with a bas-relief of an agape 
or love feast. Opposite this is a portrait of St. 
Ambrose on a pilaster. Over the altar is a mosaic 
of the Saviour, with a GreeK inscription, signifying 
"Jesus Christ, the King of Glory." By his side 
are the martyi's, Gervasius and Protaslus, whose 
bodies were discovered in 886. Some mosaic illus- 
trations of the life of St. Ambrose are seen in the 
choir; and the archbishop's chair and canons' stalls 
are in the apse behind the altar, near a mosaic of 
the Baptism of St. Augustine, in 887. 

One of the chapels is dedicated to St. Ambrose's 
sister, Marcellina, who is buried with her brother 
(who died Easter day, 397) under the high altar. 
He was Metropolitan over eighteen Lombardy 
bishops. Another chapel is called St. Satyrus, 
after Ambrose's brother, who was buried hero 
close to St. Victor, in a sarcophagus, which was 
found in 1861. 

The paintings. Ac, contained in the side chapels 
are G.Ferrari's Virgin; Lanciani's St. Ambrose on 
his death-bed; Pacettl's statue of Santa Marcel- 
lina; Borgognonc's fresco of Christ and the two 
Angels, <fec. 

The Latin hymns of St. Ambrose have been 
edited by Biraghi, one of the prefetti of the 
Ambrosian library, under the title of "Inni Sinceri 
di Sunt' Ambrogio."— Dr. Wordsicorih. 

S. AlcMandro (1602), in Corso degli Amadei, has 
two large statues in the front, and a richly orna- 
mented interior, with paintings on the cupola, by 
Campi, Procaccini, and other artists. 

Santa Maria prcMO S. Celso^ near the Porta 
Ludovica, opposite the Military College, founded 
by the Viscontis, 1491, shows a very beautiful 
front, in which are two sibyls, by Fontana; and 
an excellent Adam and Eve at the entrance, by 
Laurcnzi. Inside, among other work, are'Appi- 
qui's frescoes, and Fontana's statue of the Virgin ; 
with a rich altar. &c. 

S. Vittore al Corpo, in that stradone, behind a 
barrack, was rebuilt 1560, by Alessi, on the site of 
one from which St. Ambrose shut out the Emperor 
Theodosius. the gates of which are said to be at 
S. Ambrogio; with pictures by Procaccini, Bellon, 
&,c. 

Santa Maria della Passione, in the Via del Con- 
servatorio, is rather a fine church, 3?0 feet long, 
with a triple portal, three naves, and a dome 106 feet 
high. Note the tomb of the founders (Archbishop 
Birago and his brother),- by A.. Fusina, J 498 ; • 
paintings of the Crucifixion, by Campi; the lAstt 



^iagiilMioii, by Bilmeg^a, Ai 



u]7 JltCIft dignity the dome llnlf nriglit pwmH,' 



il«Bry Ch»pel of B. 



• a. Lircru«, Dfsr Cono dt Porto Ttdneae. 1> J 

m^ uctajrona; ona of them tietiig bn Anclen 
hapel In which Ataulpbui. the Oot^, and hia wifi 



nt of the SomiD 



bnlit on the ilCe ot ta old temple of the Bn 

Toimd church, buUt 18^-47, bj Auutl. wUl 

ec^ed from Ihr "~*' '"" '-"* •" 

UgfggtUgh. 
intecnallT twt 



"Hotwllhstad 



the whole is thin, mesn, and ! 
dom fOiud anywhere elee. £i 
«bjtd- A portico of lhlrty-3i 



raaUyth. 



icenent shrine of 



capital painted Imitation of one, at the endof Uw 

a. attaiHami, a. rouoii church, Id Contrada della 
FalU. 

A notawortliy olnMl ll the Btltne of lAOOaTdtf 
da Vlnol, hi the tlaiiB della Scala. of Carrara 



ho Dokcs rf Mllad, °ln ths 
i.s by Applani (tha 



wliiga itre deitroyed by bayli]^ hooaea bulJt behind 
tbem, with throe aloreyi of windows nnilcr the 
BortlaOM, and thna note abore them, k> arnnged 
m to aaavMa irtA,aad, u fn M.jxiKlUe, ^aMioy , 



apotheoBla of Napolooi 



General of Lombardy. The large haJls adjoiniag 
the baU-room are hung with lUk drapery, or ol3 

tnonB of Baphael, embroidered by the'nnni of Ban 

over the chapel, with a colossal angel la ci^per 
at the top. Hear this palace 1b the 

almple, yet £uod front, rehollt by S, Carlo Bdt- 

waa Pellegrhil. The court la siirroiuided by ■ 

andAaion. Poriii«rly It farmed part of the ra>al 
palace adjalnlag. 



brjU)Sbaw 8 iiu-r. 



Hllii (or HuniEon Hoaie), In Con 
H the Calhedral, ceaiiHa of l« 
1 Bei>a[i»nc<> couiti. built b 

if(i(a.n<iirFltizuBew<irl>,s1>rg 



IX. lis Latin uanalstlon of Joaephua, b; Bufliiua, on 

he Com nanynn, BUppoMd to bo elBvcn ccnluties old; 
lory. In ' imother, at the Gospsia In Irlah, is of the Bovdnth 



•liui(e and Teli^rapb sfllce. 

Palaaa MaHm or MmMptt, In Plana S. Fcdele, 
oppoalte Ibe Seals. Ii uiuallTcalled the •CaiaRalto 
(Ked Houac). II la a rich pile, »H) foEl loriR, 100 



luwhalmaylBcallodtliEl 
BO Mltla afltnlty with tha r 
worka In Itallui cltlei."-J' 



saCMtifllooe 1> the honw wbich «ai 
ad them to the Tower of London."- 



It. Cyril 
■ lock ot harbrlght yellow hair; a MS. -vSudic of 



train, by Da Vinci, and a copy"r>r lila LmI Hu'ppori 
eleven TllUas: CorteKKlo'sChrf.t and the Maler 
Doloroiai Riphael's W«»hinf the Dlsciplea' feet; 



ast building, 






lit by tbem. are — pataxJo Anntme, 
MtlDg pile, bnllt by D. Blchlni. 
la Lanionl, with > bun kbO'e thi 
Mch, with tbe akeleton of Ettotf. 
!«, are tha only remabiBol that 
Palam BOi^ot, bnllt by Q. 

Pakaa IW™Mo, built by Mar- 

hai a libiaiyof SO.OOO Tolnmes 

— ■ Bon.pmrle. In fine garden.. 

merly occnpLed by the late 



Dance of LoTea. by Albano.— and bii Madonna i 
Domenicblno'. Virgin and Child; Bordone'a 
Aganmptlan; O. Koinano-> Matlrity; Guerclno'a 
•Hasar and Abrnham (deserving panleulat 
■Kenlion), alia bla Feter and Paul ; borgognone^a 

BfllntiWor'e the Croiai P. Vero'ne'so-a Chrlit°ln 



Conegliat 






t Peter; O. BelUni'i 



Bpnl, an old quadrangle of one atorey. 
llmo /^Ml'PtaaU, Via Morone. hai a good 

iTon'ofwtilchahiiolduotbeonillted. Open, iW 
«; holldaya, lltoSi admiealon. 1 lira. 
ThA * AmbrotUm Library (epen, November to 
!r, lO to n. in Conlrada della BIMiMaea. , 



Chrial bearing the Cl.__, __.,, __ 

bli portrait of Cecilia QalleranI (minreis of 
Ludoviccll MarD)i Raphaeri*Spo«allzlo.oTEBpDn- 



■atnry. Freo on Tbnradayi 



Route 11.] 



MILAN — ^THEATRES — ^ARCO BELLA FACE, ETC. 



85 



fine collection of ancient and mediroval works. 
Here are preserved whatever remains of the old 
city have been removed in effecting improvements. 

In the Via del Senato, in the Palazzo delta 
Sociefh pelle Belle Arti, witli a permanent Art 
Exhibition. 

The Conservatorio delta Musica is the old convent 
near the Chnrch of Sta. Maria dclla Fassione, Via 
del Conservatorio. 

In the Via Manin is the Museo Civico, with 
natural history and ethnological collections; the 
reptiles are especially worth seeing. Open, 
Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday (gratis^ and 
Saturday, 11 to 3. 

Of the theatres, the best, and also the largest in 
Italy, is the *Teatro la Scala, or Opera House, in 
Corsi del Giardino, on the site of the Santa Maria 
della Scala, and facing the new Statue of Leonardo 
da Vinci. It was built, 1777-9, by G. Piermarini, 
and is as magnificent as it is commodious in all its 
parts. San Carlo, at Naples, is its only rival. A 
large vestibule leads into the pit, and by two grand 
staircases to the boxes, which number 240, and 
have a small saloon or cabinet to each; total 
length, 320 feet; breadth, 180 feet (length of 
San Carlo's, 210 feet); pit, 105 feet deep, and 87 
wide across the boxes. Its facade is Corinthian 
on a rustic basement It holds above 4,000 per- 
sons. Performances, as a rule, only during the 
Carnival. **The Scala Theatre is the general ren- 
dezvous of Milan, and those who meet nowhere 
else meet there. The principal business of the 
audience certainly is not attention to the music; 
and murmurs, loud talking, and laughing are heard 
f nim the beginning to the end of the performance, 
except during one or two favourite airs, when all 
are still. Those who sit in the pit are the only real 
audience. Those who stand in the alleys come to 
hear the news and arrange commercial affairs; of 
the boxes, the two first tiers are the most polite 
and the least amusing; in the third and fourth 
tiers arc settled almost all intrigues of all kinds ; 
in the fifth some of them are brought to a conclu- 
sion; and there also arc card-tables, and gambling 
is going on during the whole performance; the 
sixth is open like the pit." — Lord Broughton. 

Teatro Cannoblnano, near Contrada Larga, and 
the Royal Palace (to which it is joined by a cor- 
ridor), was also built by Piermarini. It is usually 
open only during the carnival. 

Teatro Afanzoni, near Piazza San Fedele, is 
handsomely arranged. Carlo Re, on the site uf an 
old chnrch. Teatro dal Vermes a new one (1872) for 
grand operas and ballets, occasionally circus. 
Teatro Filo-drammatici, for amateurs, Via S. Dal- 
mazio, is near La Scala, and was built by Pollack. 
Operatic performances. 

The CircOj or Anfiteatro (or Arena), in the Piazza 
di Armi, built by the French, 1805-6, from 
Canonico's desigrn, is an oval, 850 feet by 170 feet, 
for races, shows, Ac. ; the Marble Arch stands at 
one end. It may be flooded for boat races. It will 
bold 80,000 spectators in its ten rows of seats, 
wbicb are nearly all 9f turf » 



" For some time after the change of government 
the Circus was neglected, and the races discon- 
tinued, but the velvet throne of Napoleon, and two 
figures in the ceiling, representing him and his 
Empress, Josephine, were shown at our first visit. 
At my next visit, in 1822, the Empress was become 
a Minerva; and the former master of the iron 
crown was an old man with a beard." — Lord 
Broughton. 

In front of the Castello or Caserma, a great 
Barrack on the site of the old castle of the Dukes 
(of which some traces remain), is the Foro Bona- 
parte, a public walk laid out by Napoleon. 
Behind it is the Piazza d'Armi, for reviews; about 
9C0 feet square, planted round the borders. On 
the further side, across the Siraplon Road, rises a - 
noble marble triumphal arch, called the 

*ArC0 dellaPace, or Arco del Sempione^ second 
only to the Arc de I'Etoile at Paris for size. 
It was began 1807, by Marquis Cagnola, but not 
finishedtill 1837, and was inaugurated the year after 
at thecoronation of Emperor Francis I. Thus,though 
destined to record the triumphs of Napoleon, it 
records only his reverses at Leipsic, Paris, &c. 
It was re-dedicatcd to its new masters, 1859. As 
seen from all sides, it is a conspicuous mass 72 feet 
wide, 74 feet high, 42 feet thick ; the centre arch, 
24 feet wide by 48 feet high ; two smaller ones, 1 1 
feet by 28 feet. Fluted Corinthian pillars face 
each of the principal wings. There are numerous 
reliefs, statues, Ac, including emblems of tho 
Rivers Po, Ticino, Adige, and Tagliamento, by the 
artists, Cacciatore and Pompeo Marchesi. On the 
top are two bronze Victories, 13 feet high, and 
(in the middle) a colossal bronze figure of Peace 
(by Sangiorgio), in a car drawn by six horses. Its 
total cost is reckoned at upwards of £140,000. 

Out of the ten gates in the city ramparts, that 
of the Porta Ticinese (formerly Marengo) is also 
by Cagnola, being composed of two Doric arches, 
with rustic work across the canale ; the old towers 
have been removed. The Porta Romana is flanked 
by rustic pillars. Porta Nuova is Corinthian in 
style, with good bas-reliefs, by Zanaja (died 1817). 

*0^dale Afaggiore, or Great Hospital, with room 
for 1,300, is a parti-coloured building in the pointed 
style, 400 feet by 153 broad; made up of two 
square masses, each containing four courts, united 
by a grand court, 243 feet by 223 feet, consisting 
of two tiers of light, elegant arches, ornamented 
with pilasters, reliefs, &c. It was founded, 1457, 
by Duke F. Sforza, and is richly endowed. Bra- 
mante, Richini, &c., have had a share in the 
building of it, since the commencement, by 
Filarete, of the southern mass; the northern being 
of a modem date, and inferior design. In the 
middle of the centre court is a domed roof, with 
Gnercino*s Annunciation, and the portraits of 
benefactors. The smaller donors are drawn 
standing, while the others sit. 

There are also the two hospitals of the Fate 
bene-Sorelle and Fate-bene-Fratelll (Sat ol«L%5a*j«'«. 
and bretbr<iiiV> wv^ ^.'^kscvNa ^v.'^NsS^^^^ ^xSs5i«^ 



36 BttADBOAW'B IIILT. 

Ohm dt SImrmie, In Vli Uoote U PlsU, li a Idh how to ipe 






for the guide l> <onie«iliiitii 



ted br Mui»D 



B 1 .UanBtr to him, and will m 
ad kind rECCptton, 

'iardin) Pubttid ut the uorth-e 
ic cllf. Hete and on the Bi 
OTietK which iBon the outeldi 






nclghbonrhDod ar 



1773. of the Boizl (Bo<) ftUDi] 
TllleonhiimothDr'aEida. 
IToim/iKiurft.— eiik goDdt 



Dure than ££.000 raoliDn h; hnndrede. Tbi 



re Ihsa deabled ill 



(HBTTih lor Fran« or Spain, ao tliat wa get enoii«b 
manly 'cbiracter. Thay aie noWd tor affabllllj 
"patliioiiab"^"^^! at CalKt Mutinl, and Cova. 
u^ed. I'roTlded a man la well 

dropped, a noWe being addrewed by ht« name, ai 


















M 'Bw A »# (i/(r. ^ M*4 te at V 



the etty on 
[Lombard 



On the 71h June, » 
by the Porta Vercelll. 



heir entry the day after » Barly ihal mnit ol ibi, 
■eopls were In bed, Lonl. rfapolton oocoplod 






•'«»"" <:' p™'«lr 



A little while 4ftcr his enlty, Loula Mapoleoa 



an slde-f 
of ^ratltode 



draught of this. In 



CaTonr, vtao had followed tbe aoverelgna to HlUn, 
beeama. of iiaTm, ons of tbe lloni of Uu dayTima 
hli pDctaslt iraa Mea •niTwliut. 



Itonte 12.] 



MILAN, SOMMA, MOITJBA, OOMO* 



37 



Miles, 
Somma Lombardo.. 30^ 

Sesto Calende d6| 

Arona 41f 



Several short rails start from Milan ; amongst 
which are the following : — 

1. From MiUn to Lago Magglore. 

Miles. 

Rho 8 

Legnano 16^ 

Gallarate 25^ 

[Branch to Varese] 

Oallarate (Stat.), the junction for Varese, 

87 miles from Milan, for which see Route 12. 

From Gallarate a line, opened April, 1884, runs 
to Laveno (page 19) and Lulno. 

Somxna (Stat)— population, 4,715— near the 
Ticino, which has an old seat of the Visconti family, 
in which is a cypress, 24 feet in girth. Here Scipio, 
the father of Scipio African us, was defeated by 
Hannibal, at the battle of the Ticino. b.o. 218, and 
was obliged to retreat towards the Po. 

Sesto Calende (population, 2,817), at the out- 
let, at Ticino, from Lago Maggiore. The line ends 
At Arena (Stat.) steamers for Baveno, the 
Borromean Islands, Laveno, and other points on 
the lake. (See Route 8.) 

9. Milan to Casale and Asti (page 12). 
Miles. 

Oaggiano I2| 

Abbiateg^asso 18 

Vlgeyano 24i 

Hortara 82} 

[Branch to Yalenza 

and Alessandria.] 

This lino effects a junction at Asti with the 
main line from Turin to Alessandria. 

S. Milan to Pavia and Yoghera (Route 14). 



Miles. 
Candia Liomellina...41i 

Casale *...60| 

Moncalro 65| 

Asti 78f 



Miles. 

Locate 9^ 

Certosa 17} 

Payia 22} 



Miles. 
[Branch to Cremona.] 
Yoghera 38} 



4. Line up the Brianza, towards Como, Ac, to 
Bovlsa, Bruzzano, Pademo, Bovisio, Seveso, 
Mariano, Lambrugo, Indno (ancient Forum 
IneM), and Erba (.Inn), 1,020 feet high, oyerlooking 
the fertile Brianza, and Lake Fusiano. 

5. To Saronno and Como, 284 miles, by the 
Riva Lago line. From Saronno to varese (page 88) 
and Laveno, on Lake Maggiore. At Saronna are 
a number of fine frescoes by Lulni. 



Milan to Monza, Oamerlata, Como, 
Clilasso: and to Lecco. 



and 



Miles. 
Sesto S. GioTanni... 4| 
Monza 8 

etranch to Lecco,23.] 
esio 12| 

Seregno 14| 



Miles. 

Camnago 18 

Cucciago 24| 

Albate-Camerlata.. 27 

Como 80 

Chiasso 82| 



8Mto 8. CUoraimi (Stat) Ium nnmeroiu tUIss 
round it. 



MOKZA (Stat.) ; where the line toLeeeo parts off. 

Innt: Hotel Gastello; II Falcone; Angelo; 

Hotel Monticello (1| hour from station), in the 

old Kara Palace, at a fine point of view. (See p. 38.) 

OntheLambro: population 17,077. Here are a 
Palace, or royal hunt ing-seat, built by Piermarini in 
1799. in a park: Broletto, or Town Hall ; a college, 
hospital, theatre, and an old Cathedral, enlarged in 
the fourteenth century, which has a front of various 
coloured marble, much ornamented. On the door 
is a bas-relief of the founder (/ 95), (S.Theodolinda 
and her husband. It contains paintings by Guer- 
cino, B. Luini, Procaccini, and others; with the 
celebrated Iron Crown of Lombardy, which was 
used at the coronation of Charles V., and which 
Napoleon placed on his own head, with the warn- 
ing, Quaia chi la tocca (Woe to him that touches 
it). It was again used at the crowning of the 
Emperor of Austria, in 1838, and was carried off 
to Yienna, 1859. It consists of a circular rim of 
iron, said to have been made from a nail of the 
Saviour^s cross, covered with gold and precious 
stones. In the same church is the mummified body 
of Ettore Yisconti. Frescoes by Luini at the 
Madonna Church. 

[At Monza, the line for Lecco turns off. It passes 

the Stats, at Arcore (pop., 2.060); Usmate 

(omnibus to Monticello, p. 38) ; CemilSCO (pop., 
5,086), a pretty spot on the Martesana Canal; 
Olglate (pop^ 2,085); GalolziO and LeCCO, as in 
Route 13.] 

Seregno (Stat.), line to Bergamo (page 39), 

passing Usmate-Carnate, and Ponte 8. Pietro; 
Camnago (Stat.), branch to Seveso S. Pietro. 

Before the line reaches Como, it passes Baradello 
Tower, on a lofty hill, in which Napoleone della 
Torre, of the Torriani family. Lords of Milan, 
was imprisoned in an iron cage, by his victorious 
rival, Visconti. He at last killed himself by 
dashing his head aeainst the bars. From Albate- 
Camerlata (Stat.) to 

OOMO (Stat.), 

On the beautiful Lago di Como. Population, 80,560. 

Hotels: Yolta; La Corona; L'ltalia; Regina 
d' Inghilterra; L* Angelo. 

An ancient city, formerly of considerable impor- 
tance, three miles from Camerlata. It has a con- 
siderable trade in silks. Here are the beautiftil 
Cathedral of 14th-16th centuries, with paintings 
by Guido and B. Luini; the Broletto, or Town 
Hall ; the Del Crocefisso Church ; the ancient 
Basilica S. Abbondio ; the Piazza Yolta and his 
statue; and the Porta del Torre. The Yilla 
d'Este, once the residence of Queen Caroline, wife 
of George lY., at CemobblO, about 3 miles from 
the town, is now the Queen of England Hotel. 

From Como 2| miles to Chiasso (see next page). 

The exquisite Lake Of Oomo, 80 miles by 
8 miles, is surrounded, except at t^<^ vs^t^vsc^ 
extremity^ \>7 VAVj Tsv<c3raxv^»^3A 'Ca»N. 'tw^ ^^ij^. 



88 



BRADSHAW'S ITALT* 



[Section 1. 



the most charming spot on the Italian lakes 
(population, 3,200). Hotel Grande Bretagne, with 
its dependence— Magnificent hotel, veil managed. 
Villa Serbelloni belongs to the same proprietor. Mr. 
Augnste Meyer, and is recommended also. Eng. 

Ch. sebv. (C.c.c. Soc.) See Advt. Cadenabbia, 

opposite, has also a good hotel (Hotel Belle Vue); 
and is rising into repute. There is also an English 
Chaplaincy established there. The Villas in 
this part of the Lake, Villas Melzi and Carlotta 
especially (the latter at Cadenabbia), with their 
fine gardens and their tropical vegetation, should 
be visited. Villas Melzi and Giulia, at Bellaggio; 
fee for entrance to the grounds. 

At MenagglO (opposite) is Hotel Menagglo. 
Villa Vigoni is worth a visit. In the wall of a 
church here, a Roman inscription of the first 
century is built in. Fine views and beautiful 
gardens. Tram from Menaggio to Poxlezza. 
Lugano on Lake. 

At Cavsllesca, a mountain village, near Como, 
Garibaldi had encamped, thinking the Austrian 
General, who occupied a strong position at San 
Fermo, would attack him. A young Lombard lady 
boldly rode across the Austrian lines and brought 
him news that Urban intended to bar his march to 
Como, with a force of 10,000 men, while Garibaldi's 
corps was not more than 3,000. He at once made 
up his mind, took the Anstrians by surprise, carried 
their^sition. and drove them in f nil retreat through 
the streets of Como, towards Camerlata and Mouza. 

From Clliasso (Stat, on Swiss territory, the 
line is open by rai .'and steamer to LuganO, viA 
MendrislOt Ac, and connects with the new St. 
Qothard Tunnel Line, which comes in vid Belll&- 
ZOna, Biasca* AlrolO, Ac. (See Bradshaw's 
Hand-Boot to Switzerland.) At the top of Lake 
Como the rivers Maira and Adda fall in ; one near 
Riva, the other near CollCO, whence there is a 
line uptheMairatoChiavenna, in Val Bregaglia 
(for the Engadine). Thence up the Liro to Campo 
DoLCiNO and the Splilgen or Spluga Pass (16 milea), 
6,950 feet above sea, between hills 10,000 to 11,000 
feet high, on the way to Coire. San Bernardino or 
BetTiardhin Pass, 7,115 feet high, lies to the west, 
near some good sulphur springs, in Val Mesocco, 
on the Coire and Bellinzoua road. From Colico, 
on Lake Como, a line runs up the Valtellina past 
HorbegnO to SondrlO (25 miles), thence diligence 
to TiRANO (route to Poschiavo and the Engaaine), 
and to BormiOt near the warm Sulphur 
Baths, 4,400 feet high; thence 14 miles up to 
the Wormser Joch and the fine Stelvio Pass, or 
StUfser Joch, 9,175 feet high, on the frontier of 
Tyrol, which is j-eachcd by a splendid zigzag. The 
great Ortler Spiti^ (12,816 fee^ is to the east.— See 
Bradshato's Hand-Book to Switzerland and J^frol, 

The Brianza, or district between the two arms of 

the lake, is called the Garden of Lombardy, and is 

jrvmArAaif/e not on)y /or its fertility but for the 

^f°fJ^ ones scenery. The rail from Como to 

^^aoff, acroaaU,paea^ffa^^P^aifa^Q X,^e (ancie^Jt 



Evpilis) and MontlCellOi a fine summer resort, 
on a ridge. Hotel JUonticello, in the Palazzo Nara, 
at an excellent point of view. Parini and 
Amaboldi, the poets, came from this part. In the 
neighbourhood of the Lccco, Manzoni has placed 
the scenes of his Promessi JSposi. Omnibus from 
Usmate (p. 37) to Monticello. 

From Como there is a line, 18 miles, through 
Civello to 

Varese (Stat.) ^o/e/«: Grand Hotel Varese; 
in a fine situation; first-class, with 200 rooms, 
baths, &c.; Angelo; La Stella. Resident Physician; 
Church Service. Population, 14,000. A good sized 
town, best reached, ft*om Milan, by rail, vtd/Saronno 
(Route 11). 

From Castello d'Azzati Is a view of the Lake of 
Varese, and of the Convent of Madonna del Monte, 
on a beautiful hill 7| miles from Varese. From 
this convent a magnificent prospect is obtained. 

"This place (says Count Arrivabene) is remark- 
able for the way in which Garibaldi outwitted the 
Austrians in 1859. After fortifying Como as well 
as possible. Garibaldi proceeded to assault the fort 
of Laveno ; but he had no artillery, the place was 
too strong for him, and the attempt \«as a failure. 
Hearing of this. General Urban stopped his retreat 
and suddenly moved again on Varese, -w hich was 
totally defenceless and upon which he levied a war 
contribution of two million francs. Garibaldi 
hastened back, and found tlie enemy right in his 
way, occupying a strong position, near the hills 
of Sant' Ambrogio and tl;e famous Sanctuary of 
Madonna del Monte, and numbering not less than 
10,000 strong.'' 

*' So certain were they of capturing the Italian 
Volunteers, that on the morning of the 4th June, 
Urban telegraphed to Milan, that he had at last 
surrounded Garibaldi and hoped to have him, dead 
or alive, before the day closed. In fact, the Aus- 
trians had nearly turned his left wing ; so that he 
was compelled to fall back upon Colonel Medici 
(who with the Second Regiment occupied the Villa 
Medici-Melagnano) and concentrate the whole of 
his forces on the narrow height crowned by that 
country seat. On the critical day in question, pali- 
sades and chevaux-de-frise were put up by the 
Cacciatori. To induce Urban to believe that he 
really meant to accept the fight. Garibaldi as night 
came on, made a great display of blazing bivouac 
fires, and ordered liis men to march up and down 
behind them. Tiie sky which had been pure and 
blue during the day was suddenly covered with 
dense rolling clouds. Taking advantage of the 
darkness and a storm. Garibaldi gave orders for 
retreat. With their bivouac fires still blazing, 
the Cacciatori delle Alpi passed unnoticed close 
to the Austrian outposts, struck along the moun- 
tain paths into the deep gorges, and arrived at 
Como. whilst Urban was awaiting the moment 
of attack." 

From Varese there is a line (18} miles) through 
Gayirate to Laveno, on lAke Magglore. 



I 



Boute 13.] 



CABBNABBU, VJLltSgfi, BKRGAUO. 



sd 



Diligence from Tarese (7} miles) to PortO 
CeresiO on the beaatif al Lake Lugano, which is 
mostly within Swiss territory. (See BracUhaw's 
Hand-Book to Switzerland.) 

IS. 



Milan to Bergamo, Brescia, Solferlno, Lago 
di Garda, PescMera, Verona, Vicenza, 
Padua, and Venice. 

By railway, 176 miles, hy Bergamo. 
Miles, 



Miles. 

Limito ', 6f Castelnuovo (T) ... 80 

Melzo llf Somma Compagrna.. 84^ 

Cassano 16t Verona (P. Nuova) 91 

Treviglio 20 Verona (P.Vescova) 98f 

[BranchestoCremona [Branches to Man- 

and Rovato.] tua, and to Trent 

Verdello 26 and the Brenner.] 

Bebgaho 32f S. Martino 97| 

[Branch to Lecco Caldiero lOU 

and Lake Como.] San Bonifacio lU6i 

Goriago 39f Lonigo 110 

Palazzolo 45f Montebello 118| 

Coccaglio 60i Tavemelle 118| 

Rovato 40 ViCENZA 128f 

Brescia 61 i Pajano 128 

[Branch to Cremona.] Padua 142J 

Rezzato fi6i Ponte di Brenta ...1464 

Ponte S. Marco 62 Dole 152^ 

Lonato (T) 65i Marano 156| 

Desenzano 68f Mestre 160^ 

Peschiera 77^ Venice 166* 

Cassano (Stat.), or Cassano d'Adda, the 
i^cient Ccusianwn, on the Adda. Population, 5, 805. 

Treviglio (Stat.), on the Adda, a curious old 
town (population, 10,326), near the ancient Pons 
Sureslh "With a large and imposing Church, con- 
taining some pictures. 

The direct line runs from here to Cldari and 
BOVatO, shortening the distance to Brescia by 12 
miles (see page 40). 

[A branch railway turns off to Crema and 
Cremona (Route 16), passing 

CorreggiO, which gives name to the g^reat 
painter, bom here 1669, the son of a builder.] 

BERGAMO (Stat.) 

Population, 40,000. Branch rail to Lecco, on 
Lake Como. 

Hotel: D'ltalia. The thrushes, larks, confetti, 
and fruits ai-e excellent. 

Conveyances. — Railway to Milan, Camerlata, 
Verona, Padua, Venice, Lecco, &c. 

Chief Objects of Notice. — Fiera, Palazzo Nuova, 
Duomo, Tasso's Monument. 

It was the Roman Bergomum, which Alaric 
burnt in his progress through Italy, and formed 
part of the Austrian possessions till 1859. 

Ber'gamo is the capital of the province called 
Bergamasco, and a bishop's see, &c., in an amphi- 
between the Brembo and Serlo, flowing 



or castle, on the top of MonteVlrgilio, commanding 
a magnificent prospect. Its outskirts extend round 
the fortified eminence, the most populous being 
that of S. Leonardo. Its most remarkable building 
is the •Fiera, or Fair House, where an annual 
August Fair is held; an immense quadrangle, 
having three gates on each side, and several streets 
in it, with six hundred shops, and a fountain in the 
midst. Silk and other goods are sold, but the fair 
has much declined in importance. 

The Palazzo Nuovo^ or Town Hall, Is a very 
excellent building, though unfinished, by Sea- 
mozzl. An Academy^ founded by one of the 
Carrara family, has several good casts, and 
paintings by Lotto, Moroni, Ghrislandi, &c. 
Nearly all the buildings of interest are in the 
oldest, or Cittk part of the town. 

The Cathedral, or *Duomo, was designed by 
Fontana; it contains some pictures, and tho 
bones of St. Alexander, its patron saint. 

At Santa Maria Maggiore, a half Romanesque 
church, are good paintings also, and the marble 
tomb of B. Calleone, a general of the fourteenth 
centur>% who was the first to employ artillery, on 
a large scale, In armies. His monument is covered 
with bas-reliefs. Here also is the tomb of Doni- 
zetti, the composer. The tower is 800 feet high. 

In the old Augustine Church is the tomb of 
Father Palepino, bom at Calepio, on Lake Iseo, 
near this, who published a learned dictionary, in 
seven languages, 1503. 

The Benedictine Church of Santa Orata is r«* 
markable for its profusion of carving, gilding, 
and an altar-piece by Salmeggla, a native. Paint- 
ings by L. Lotto at S. Spirito and S. Bartolammeo. 

There are besides, two theatres, a musical school, 
which has produced some distinguished pupils (as 
Donizetti and Rubinl), and a refonnatory for 
boys, founded by C. Botta, a priest, in 1315. 

In Piazzo Garibaldi opposite the old Palazzo 
Vecchio, or Broletto, where is the public library 
of 90,000 volumes, is a monument to *Torquato 
Tasso, the poet, who was born here; or rather 
he is claimed by Bergamo, because his father, 
Bernardo Tasso, who was also a poet, was a 
native. Another native is Tiraboschl, who haq 
written the History of Italian Literature. 

The castle was evacuated by the Au&trlans fo^u» 
days after the battle of Magenta. ^' On ^terln^ 
the town, Garibaldi learnt by a t^legraph.icmessag^, 
that 1,500 Croats would sjiort^y arrive, an^ a 
detachment was sent tp t^p st^^io^ to c^pturtt 
them. The trick was frustrated by an Austrian 
straggler, whg stpppe^ tUe ti*a\n about a mile off, 
shouting with all the power of bis lungs, ' Gari- 
baldi, Garibaldi.* Sq great was the consternation 
of tbe CrQats fvt bearing Bergamo was occupied 
by this Italian Tet^fel (Devil) that instead of goinff 
back by train to Brescia, which they might safejiy 
have done, they abandoned the cars, and tqok^tcK 



theatre, 

from the Valtellina Mountains to the north. It is ^- -^ - - 

•urroonded by walls and ditches^ and has a cltade\f \ ftp«akiti% «k xQTX%\^'^«t%«3SkMns^'^ 



their legs across the open fiftld" — A.wV.'*«fe««*. 



40 



BBADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Seetion 1. 



always pat into the mouth of Arleqttino, or Harle- 
quin, who, on the stage, under a simple and rustic 
air, hides much acuteness and cunning. He is the 
^accessor of the old Sannio, or Zany. 

The town gives name to the citrus bergamium, 
which yields the essence of bergamot. Every 

2ard of the fertile soil around is turned to account 
y its enterprising population. 

[From Bergamo exchrsions may be made to 
Leeeo, on Lake Como, 20 miles, and up the Brem- 
bana, Seriana, and Canonica Valleys, in the 
direction of the Valtellina, and to Lake Iseo. 
SoNDBio (pop., 8,000), in the Valtellina, is about 
t5 miles aorth-east. 

LoTSBS, a small town at the head of the Lake 
of Iseo, is one of the most picturesque spots above 
Brescia, and was once the residence of Lady 
Wortley Montague. It may be reached by the 
road from Oorlago station. It is built on the 
side of a wooded hill, and is watered by num- 
berless fountains. Garlbaldihad his head-quarters 
iiere when the news of the peace of Villafranca 
Arrived. Count Arrivabene describes him thus: — 
"The General was not dressed in the costume 
with which the English eye has been made fami- 
liar, nor did he wear the tireek cap or the round 
hat with Puritan plume which the fancy of foreign 
' painters generally ascribe to him. He was clad in 
the Piedmontese uniform of his rank. Whether in 
peace or war. he always gets up at dawn, and, ff 
not prevented by duty, invariably goes to bed a 
little alter sunset.** 

On hearhig the news of the peace of Villafranca 
be offered to resign his commission, but the king 
would not accept it; "Italy stiU requires the 
legions you command," said the kio^, *' and you 
flOQUst remain.** 

During the war of 1859 the passes were guarded 
by Cialdinl and Garibaldi, to prevent an Austrian 
eorpt darmde from descending upon the rear of 
. the allies. Here Garibaldi, with his Gacciatori 
delle Alpl (Alp hunters), was in his true element, 
. and showed his great experience and daring in a 
series of well-conducted operations, which enlisted 
the admiration of the Austrian general. In their 
Tetreat to Bormio before the forces of Garibaldi, 
ihe Austrians barricaded the tunnel and blew up 
tthe bridge of Stelvio, and then retired towards the 
•Tyrol. 

There is a short ferrovia economica, 18 miles 
frem Bergamo to Ponte delle Selve, passing 
ihrevgh Albino-Desenzano. 

RaW from Bergamo to Seregno, 24f miles (see 
pageWr). 

From Bergamo to Lecco is now open by rail. 
The stattons are~Ponte 8. Pletro, 5 miles, the 

Searest to Val Brembana; Mapello, 7^ miles; 
'Isano, Hi miles; GalolziO (where the direct 
ne from Milan comes in), IHf miles ; and LeCCO 
(population, 6.470), 20^ miles, on the south-east 
•ffW of Lake (>omo. It is chiefly a manufacturing 
^^^ ^^a brldgB dates from 1385. Hotel des 

^»^a^tctMtMtJ<m toBevamo towarda Venice Ib 



Striate (Stat.) Population, 2,481. 

GtorlagO (Stat.), population, 1,249; whence a 
road goes to Samico and Lovere, on Lake Iseo. 

GmmellO (Stat.), on the road to Samico 
(6 miles), on Lake Iseo, by omnibus. 

Palazzolo (Stat.), or Palazzuello (popula- 
tion, 4,129). An old mediaeval town, near a fine 
viaduct, on the (Jglio, which comes down from the 
Iseo Lake. A branch rail of 6 miles goes off to 
ParatlCO (Stat.), on the Labe. 

COCCaglio (Stat), population, 2,280, at the 
bottom of a hill, which commands a fine prospect. 

BovatO (Stat.), where the direct line from 
Treviglio to Brescia comes in. 

[This line passes Vidalengo, Morengo, Bomano, 
Calcio, and 

Cblarl (population, 9,341), with an ancient 
cathedral and clock tower. To the left is 

Iseo (population, 2,161), on the pretty Lake of 
that name, so called from a temple of Isis which 
stood there. Xhis is now united with Brescia by 
a line 15 miles long, opened August, 1885.] 

BRESCIA (Stat) 

Population, 68,000 ; of the commune, the province 
(called Bresciano) contains about 1,300 square 
miles. 

Hotels: New Hotel d'ltalie, best; Gambero; 
Fenice; Posta; Cappello. 

Excellent fish from Lake Garda. Vino di 
Benaco and Guzago are the local wines. 

Conveyances. — Railway to Bergamo, Cremona, 
Milan, Camerlata, Verona, Mantua, Padua, Venice, 
Ac. 

Railway Station near Porta Stazione, about 
400 yards from the town; omnibuses, 1 lira; 
carriages, one horse, 1 lira 25c.; two horses, 
2 lire 50c. per hour. The hotels are in the centre 
of the town. 

*Chi^ Objects of Notice.— Toym House, Broletto, 
two Duomos, Museum in Vespasian's Temple. 

A healthy and busy city; capital of the province ; 
seat of a bishop, Ac. ; in a rich country, near the 
Mella. Here the Alpine Hills fall into the great 
plain of Lombardy, and offer many charming 
points of view. A naviglio, or canal, passes by 
it from the Mella, to join the Chiese, and helps 
to supply the seventy-two public fountains in the 
principal squares and streets; besides manv 

Erivate ones. The streets are narrow and arcaded, 
ut there are many handsome houses and palaces. 
Brescia is nearly square, about 1 mile each way. 
Several buildings are conspicuous, among which 
are the Torre deWOroIogio (clock tower), the 
Broletto, &c. In the north-east quarter, on a hill, 
is the Torre di Pallata, or bell tower, a castle- 
looking pile. 

"There are few towns in Italy (says Count 
Arrivabene) in which the summer and autumn can 
be more thoroughlv enjoyed than at Brescia. The 
city itself is one of the cleanest in Lombardy; for 
it is provided with so large a number of fountains 
that there is plenty of water to wash the streets 
and houses. It is Bltu«ted at the fool of a charmtng 



Itoate 13.] 

gliutsr of hlllft ottsu msBUontd In tb« ▼«■» of 

CtitsIlni.(c«ettaerwttbtlialltTGr]l*l1i. AH ilong 
tba ridga at Ihew hllla. wblcb are called nmchi, 

been bulU, lome ot tbem boloiiKlnR to Ibe nabljlty 

tlmei of the Mini Berono Repobllo of Venice, to 



Notblng can be preltler [bin tbe eSec» ot lb 
Mtting- ion, or iho moonllebl on tbe slope, o 

•Palata ritlla Loggia, or Mnnlciplo, Is a rlcbl; 



Iwenly-tour parts by well-modelled pillars, 
A peHslyle ot elgbt piers In the Interior 



It has a cupola, man; aid tombl. palntlDgs by 



^ Foraienlone and SMSorino, It hai plctnres by ^^P" "" '"" '•"'l 

Tbe Bitlaji'i Pidaa Is wortb notlee. and other dmam 

Close to It is the fliWlOBto, fonndeS In tbe ^'^y °y the paii 

iMl centnry, by Cardinal Onlrtnl, and contain! 

«b0Dt 40.DOO rolumes, wltb some ancient MS 



'leoiy, Monlfauoon, A 



the Cathedral). 



m An^],'^ or first Anff^i 



dUcarned on the houies In many street.— as Corao There are about torty mora Cbnrcbes, many of 
■lal Teatro, Corio dl Mereanli.fltrada dl Gambara. ^™,?*'°"'''^ J"'* f"»»«» "nd P'lutlijBS ot Iba 
. as Moretta (at S.^CIemsnte, <^i^annl 



■ad Night; PampaloDO'sCbUdPrayingi a 

M^^o'a.m£"''fnd'0°."b'r'rl2'J'ln 
llaninmgi>™C^nuliii Etan G^aMaS^ wl 
left ■■ a legacy la tbe town. Admlsilor 

Bnndaya, 1 to i. On otherdaysio ta4,ln 



->a<MJffnKr)ff,bniltI4S 
ia delli Oraiit, irblch be 

> Ibe iltc of the Temple o 



ThBoia«i>H>mo (Doomo Veceblo), or catheiral, the (oorth centnTy, iainl»Sii»TB»M iwJi.'Was™"™- 
Mlled tbe Botondo, near tbe Broletlo. Is of stone I DfUoretto «>& 'BAmuAiui. K.QiwicNw'siVO^^ 
aad brisk, nid K nw «f U* moM mutkibl* \ Tl«)tlav»uanvk,^ ^ftncawn- 



42 



BSJLD8HAW*S ITJLLT. 



[Section 1« 



Santa Euftmia hfts /fdseo^s by Gambara. One of 
Romanino*8 best pieces is at Santa Maria Calehera. 

S. Francesco, of the thirteenth century, has a 
front in the Lombard style, or mixture of Norman, 
and the Byzantine, with a round window, «kc. 

S. Salvatore, behind Santa Giulia, an old half- 
mixed Lombard church, was founded by 
Desiderius, for his daughter Ausperga, the first 
abbess. 

In the old church of Santa Giulia, in the 
Contrada del Padri Riformati, in the Museo Civico 
Eta Cristiana which contains a collection of me- 
dieval rcmahis, the cross of Sta. Elena (8th cen- 
tury) and weapons, also the Mausoleum of Marco 
Antonio Martinengo. Entrance, 60c. 

The Oreat Hospital, founded 1447, has S. Luca's 
Chapel, painted by Roman iuo and Moretto. 

The large Theatre is new and well built. The 
new Cemetery^ or Campo Santo, by Vantini, 
outside the Porta Milano, contains tombs like the 
Roman Columbaria. 

The Museo Civico Eth Rotnana, open from 10 to 
3, (50c.) is near Piazza Novarino, on the site 
oif a Roman Temple, built a.d. 72, in Vespasian's 
time, and contains several inscriptions (some from 
the Palazzo Lecchi), bas-reliefs, pavements, pillai^, 
altars, and statues ; one of which is a noble bronze 
Fame or Victory, above 6 feet high, discovered 
1826 ; a rival to the Venus of Milo. 

Remains of an aqueduct, called *Aquidotto del 
Diavolo, exist in the way to Valtrompia. 

Brescia was the ancient Brixia, on the northern 
branch of the Via Emilia, and capital of the Cer- 
romnni, in Gallia Cisalpina. It was colonised by 
the Romans, 206 B.C., ravaged by the Goths, Ac, 
and taken by the Lombards, whose last king, 
Desiderius, was a native. 

In 1849, after the rout of the national army at 
Novara, the Brescians resisted, for ten days, the 
legions of the ferocious Haynau. His revenge was 
so bitter that the Austilan General, Prince Thum 
and Taxis, who was mortally wounded, bequeathed 
his property to the families of those who suffered 
for heroically defending the town. Their leader, 
Tito Speri, was hung at Mantua, in 1852. 

The Allied Sovereigns spent two days here in 
June, 1859. Louis Napoleon was the guest of 
Count FenarolL, using the same bed and table 
which the First Consul had used in 1796. Hither, 
also. Colonel Ttirr, of Garibaldi's staff, was brought 
to be nursed by the ladies of the family, after the 
indecisive battle at Tre Ponti, between the Volun- 
teers and Austrian s, in which two hundred of the 
former were put hors de combat, and Tiirr shot 
through the arm. 

Among natives it reckons the famous Amoldo di 
Brescia, a religious and political reformer, burnt at 
Rome, 1155; Gambara, Moretto, Vincenzo (or il 
Bresciano), the painters; Tartaglia, the mathema- 
tician, so named because he stuttered, in conse- 
fzaejice o/AJsJip being cut Jn the siege of 1512. 



Brescia was long celebrated for fire-armi, cut- 
lery, sabres, Ac, so that there is a proverb ''Tutta 
Brescia non armerebbe un coglione." Monti (ou- 
trasts the two in the lines — 

BrwrU adenosa d'ogni vil penstero 
Pin che di ferro. di VAlore arm»tM. 

The neighbourhood Is populous, and studded with 

country seats and villages in every direction. 

[Rail to Cremona (page 63) and Pavia (page 
65): — 



Miles. 

Bag^olo 8 

Verolanuova 17^ 

Olmeneta 26 

Cremona 82 

Acquanegra 38 J 



MUes. 

Pizzlghettone 44 

Codogno 48 

Casalpusterlengo... 51 

Ospedaletto 56 

Pavia hl\ 



From Pavia to Piacenza (page 67).] 
Leaving Brescia, we reach 

RezzatO (Stat.), population, 1,995, where the 
hills are left ; followed by 

Ponte S. Marco (Stat.), on the Chiese, which 
flows from Lake d'Idro and Val Giudicaria. Here 
the hills again are approached. A little to the 
right is Calcinate, which was the head-quarters of 
Victor Emmanuel in June, 1859. To the left of 
this is a by-road, from which the famous plain of 
Montechiaro spreads out before the eye. Villa 
Bonoris, in Montechiaro, was the Imperial head- 
quarters, before the battle of Solferino, at the time 
of the celebration of the Corpus Domini. 

LonatO (Stat.), population, 6,730. An old 
town, not far from Lake di Garda. Here Bonaparte 
defeated the Austrians, 3rd August, 1796. 

A beautiful road runs from Lonato round the 
Lake of Qarda. From the top of a hill some of the 
most enchanting scenery of Italy spreads itself 
before the eye of the traveller. "At the southern 
extremity (saysArrivabene),amid8tthe blue waters, 
rises the Island of Sirmione. Its extensive gardens, 
its Roman ruins (said to be the remains of the Villa 
Catullus), and its high square tower, bearing the 
arms of the Scaligari, are seen on the distant 
horizon. The town of Desenzano is distinctly 
beheld from the top of the promontory of Lonato, 
together with the whole of the picturesque borders 
ofthe lake, commoniycalled the Riviera di Garda." 
The effect is heightened when the rising sun shines 
on the snowy summits of Monte Baldo. 

A short c!istance (4 miles) to the right of Lonato, 
on the Mantua Road, is Castlgllone (telle Stl- 
vlere, where the Austrians were finally beaten on 
the 6th August, 1796, and driven out of Italy. " It 
stands," says Count Arrivabene, whose paternal 
home was here, *'for the gpreater part on the 
declivity of a beautiful hill. Monte Belvedere 
erects its barren top over it, on the left. In the 
centre, the old Gonzaga Castle, once stained with 
the blood of the Marquis Rodolph, frowns above 
the houses, with its strongly built round towers. 



■ imiill bill, w 



the Ittbet ot St. Lonl! 



BRESCIA, LONATO, gOLVBRIHO. 43 

ind CirtJrllonc; (he kin or ceoire being Sol/tHne, 

Vttrmier In ^uly. 1196. In Ills diKcnl fnm'tbt 
■yroL TheUlled(orf^BritcndeJfroii.De8eiiiaiio, 
II Lake Gtirds. ilone: tke woalem rlilgs of lillle, 
torn Lonito lo Ci.tlgllonc, btHding back lo 
rarpcDcdolo on (he rbiew. The ground Is i»>e>cd 



11 1^ Rati 



lie Catbedral- 



■0 with Benedek 
-oin Eacnla lo E 
lone OH Cavrlana^ 
on OuldlziniilD a 



:e1 and Ganrobert 
DiiHodolc. The 
eat objeet wu to 
d then by flank 



thrOD^out Italy. 

of Bttrilae 1> (be placi 



»4lli, iai»i it ilandi among hills, the higheil of 
Noriliem Italf. "From tbe top at a lower. 

rUdp™"! 



doadjy Btroggleo 



DisuDied the offeni 

Napoleon. Ther 
sod rslo. 
The victory, iplem 



; Alpa 






are distlnetly je._, 

Just^vljlblo In the bEsii of the TrrolcH Alpi. Ita 

[Dilitary annaliof Italy." — Arrieabfne. 

nerar, but General Dois bad plannod tbs csmpalpi. 
After aalllng In their gamwna, the]' bad 140.U0D 
men, all treeh. In two aroilei. Coant Schllck led 
lbs rlsht -wing, designed to uke CaMlxIlone and 
Lonatoi and Coonc WlmpffeD the left »1ne. lo 

■Inceieit. ThelrottlectvaetoonKlank the French 
right, and cot them hilHO. On «th June, their 
poiltlotie wrered a parallel apace of billy : 









Lonato, Paachkrm, 'VolU, \ ftttttn* Vi •aiVt^.V. "■o)i.^%»»."*««*=^" 



asASSBiw'g i: 



I retKken 



EnglUA Charth Senia In ttaa Hotel 



44 

The Ttllige wu taken, bi 
fifth tlmo by ttM AnBtriMH, Moll.rd's Bardlnlan ', Tonra. 
dlTLsiantaaifliHt one-thlrilot Us nanberai vhen AuiTff at theatxtlon. 

from 'the BaWo/ So^tertno. 'xbe Kins cried onl Ihat ol rorta''vea< 

' hours' flgbltng Son MartJno vaa occupied, Coims^nca. — Oi 






ID' i tiro. 

■ChiffOi 

mcl, Catheiirai; Painting* by i 

nno- n«>o, Bruuaorcl; JollM'a ' 

tbe Arrhltecfnte. by Sjunnilchel 

luct. An old, middle-aged loot 

.V.1 ?L«'*"S^L^^"i.?',.'')'5 



rh BcaliR^r Tombs ^ 



I UlDCIo, nbkh 9avs out of Lake ill Garda, and 
■ PeBohlBra (Btot.) PopaUtion, i,tiio. itbs 



with fiye gatei, built by S 



Somma Campacns (E 



taly, hy Odoaeer, Theo- 



I ifallilR. andabraoeh 

^™>; Boul Sorm! d^ Oeax Toort. TbaloTM 



It MilaulnB. Tti* o< 



Boute 18.] VEBONJL — ^AHPHITHBJLTRB, PALACES. 45 



Torchl, hiB family name, or Orbetto, because he 
had a blind father), lired from 1580 to 1648, and 

-nainiiul in a. mlvfrirA nf thA 'Lnmhiu'd. Rnman. and 



antiquity, the best part of which is at Munich. It 
is intended to be used as a museum. 

Palazzo Caruuaa hnilt for Bla hon CanQsafl^ by tho 

Corin- 



a com 

Br&: a 

which 

la," in 

Museo 

style, 

Ictures 

•re also 

d base, 

irdens, 
ty. It 
ere are 

I 

I zza, in 

quary, 
Fres- 

collec- 

Ridolfi 

I ?roces- 

I en the 

iligers* 
\ glio, or 

' * onk of 

I sovino, 

j 'onzes, 

I as the 

I (iation, 

I ' minent 

i Nepos, 

adjoins 

'alazzo 
tie Sca- 
e lower 
• storey 
3lendid 
ichis a 
)f. On 

j height, 

i lything 

j 'gtuson. 

i 

Eretable 
»g, the 
with a 
in, and 
narble. . 
I eight- 
jwer of 
of the 
h, Sta. 



I 

tl. 



by 0ManM«U, 1194 ooii|«i2ied mioy rflmalni 9f \ eartoos t<ff ^Qda «Dft^Q0».>M6* «9^ >^ 



46 



BBADSHAW'S ITAi^Y. 



[Section 1. 



effigies on horseback, and with Its pinnacles, 
statnes, pyramids, bas-reliefs, Ac, is something 
like an elnborate Gothic cross in style. One of the 
best monuments is that by Bonino da Gampiglione 
of Can Signorio, who murdered his two brothers, 
and is here duly supported by figures of Charity, 
Faith. &c. Another belongs to Can Grande (t.«., 
the Great Dog), the friend of Daute, who refers 
to him as the 

" gTMl LomlMTdo 
Che in su la Scala porta 11 santo UeotUo." 

i.e., the bidder and eagle, which figure in the 
family arms, on the beautiful trellis. The fretwork 
and small statues look quite fresh; the stone 
coffins arc suspended in the air. A third monu- 
ment is dedicated to Bartolommeo, in whose reign 
Romeo and Juliet lived. 

The year 1303 is fixed by the Veronese as the 
date of Juliet's story, of which they seem very 
tenacious. Luigi di Porta, of Yicenza, was the 
first who gave it a connectoil form in his novel of 
'' Giulietta," published 1535. In his preface he 
sayif it was told him by one Peregrino, *' an archer 
of mine, a pleasant companion, and lilce almost all 
his countrymen of Verona, a great talker." 

The red marble *Tomb, certainly not the genuine 
one, though it may cover the lovers' grave, is hi 
the wild and desolate' conventual gardens of the 
Orfanotrofio, facing the river and railway, once 
a cemetery ; " a situation," says Byron, " appro- 
priate to the legend." 

Of the old Palace of the Cappaletti, marked by 
a cappello or hat, with Its uiicouth balcony and 
irregular windows, there Is only a gateway in the 
Via Capello, near the Piazza Erbe. 

' And shall I sup where Juliet at the manque 
Saw her loved Montague."— Bookxs'b Italjf. 

Of the forty Churches, the 

*Duomo, or Cathedral of BantaMaria Matrioolare, 
is a Lombard-Gothic structure, in brick and Verona 
marble, partly built 1458-73, but in part as old as 
the eighth century, with round and arched 
windows. Its circular apse is ornamented with 
tall slender pilasters, out of all proportion, 
according to the usual standard ; and it has a 
profusion of figrures carved on its front, including 
two of Charlemagne's peers, Roland and Oliver, 
and the Adoration of the Magi, with a porch 
rising arch over arch, adorned with large grritions. 
Within is a fine Assumption, by Titian; a bronze 
Crucifix in the choir, by Sammicheli ; another by 
Bellino, in St. Nicholas Chapel ; also, the tomb of 
Pope Lucius III. (who died here 1185) ; another of 
Branchini, a rich native ; a library with some valu- 
able MSS. In the Chapter House. One monument 
is a Roman relic, being that of Julius Apolonius 
and his wife. Its Baptistery, called 8. Oiovanni in 
. Fonte, has a large old Font, and Farinati's Bap- 
tism of Christ. At the Bishop's Palace are paint- 
ings by Brusasorcl, a Veronese artist. 

*8. Zenone Church, or Zeno Maggiore, built 1045- 

1178, is another fine specimen of the Lombard 

^i^}e. Thex^ is a descent to it of eleven stops, 

^fff {^^'^ /i7«/</tf of sixteen to the altar; belofw 

*r6/c/, Js sn MjcJeat C^y^pf. Jt bMB bnmxtd ^«tet 



and curious ancient carvings in the portal ; and 
the tombs of the saint, of King Pepin (Its founder), 
and A. A. Valerian; with old frescoes in tho 
Cloisters, and A. Mantegrna's Virgin enthroned, <fcc. 
Its pleasing campanile is of the twelfth century, 
and the cloister is elegant. At the west end 
Is a red porphyry tazza, 9 feet diameter. " This 
beautiful church shows traces of the same style 
of decoration as is exhibited In the apse of the 
cathedral ; pilasters being used here as slight as 
those, but so elegant and so gracefully applied as 
to form one of the most pleasing decorations of 
the style." — Fergusson. 

8. Bernardino has a chapel {Cappella Pellegrini) 
which is one of Sammicheli's best works; being a 
decorated rotunda, 3U feet across, 64 feet high, of 
fine bronzino stone, that is, of hard stone which 
sounds like bronze. 

At 8anta Anastasia, a good specimen of Italian 
pointed Gothic (1260-1807), are frescoes said to be 
by Giotto, and others by Michele da Verona and 
Pisiuiello; with a cinque-cento altar-piece, a 
beautiful pavement, Ac. In front, statue of Paolo 
Veronese, 1888. At the Capuchin (jhurch Is a Dead 
Christ, by A. Veronese, one of his best works. At 

8. Stefano, in Veronetta, Is a work by P. Vecchio, 
with one by A. Veronese, the Passion of the 
Forty Martyrs ; and at the Misericordia Hospital, 
another, the Descent from the Cross. This church 
was rebuilt by Theodorlc. 

8ta. Maria data 8cala, built 1324, by Can Grande, 
has Maffei's tomb. 

8. Helen's Church contains the Virgin and Con- 
stantino, by Brusasorci. 

Santa Eufemia has Brusasorcrs David Playing on 
the Harp, and Moses with the Two Tablesof the Law, 
and B. de Moro's St. Paul ; also some of the best 
specimens of Caroto, another native affist. 

Several of the churches are old; for example, that 
of 8. Natzaro e Celso, in Veronetta, the Monastery 
of which, with its old wall paintings and galleries, 
was of the seventh century. 88. 8iro e Libera was 
built by Bercngarius. S. Corona is a Lombard 
brick. S. Lorenzo is Gothic. 

8. Fermo Maggiore, mostly built 1318, is partly 
in the Lombard style, with pointed windows. It 
contains several ancient paintings of the twelfth 
century, Riccio's Torre or Turriani Mausoleum, 
and tombs of the two Brothers Alighieri, descen- 
dents of Dante. 

8anta Maria-in-Organo. at Veronetta, begun, 
1542, by Sammicheli, has a facade of columns and 
pilasters. It contains a St. Bernard beaten by 
Devils, by L. Giordano; Guercino's Guardian 
Angel; and A. Veronese's St Francis; with 
yatious specimens of tarsiatura or inlaid work, by 
Fra Giovanni, of the fifteenth century. 

8. Oiorgio in Braida, by the same architect (the 
body, by Sansovino), has two good pictures by A. 
Veronese; one, the Martyrdom of St. George. 
Also, the Miracle of the Five Thousand, by 
Farlnato; Bmsasorci's Manna; and the Baptism of 
Christ, by Tintoretto. The Palazzo Pompei, on 
this tide of th« town, is by SMnmicheli. 



Route 18.] 



ySBONA, CALDISRO, 8. BOKIFACIO. 



47 



The interior of 5. Ibnmuua Cantuar (<.«., Thomas 
2i Becket) is another -vrork of SammichelL It con- 
tains an altar-piece by Girolamo dai Libri. 

Santa Maria della Vittoria has a Descent from 
the Cross, by P. Veronese. >Si. Paolo di Campo 
Martio was built by Pompei. 

The Church of Madonna di Campagna, at the vil- 
lage of San Michele (tramway), is a beautiful 
colonnaded rotunda, by Sammicheli, but eight- 
sided within, and surmoanted by a large dome. 

The Lazzaretto, by Sammicheli, is an immense 
space, 728 feet by 357, surrounded by a wide 
arcade on pillars, and having a round chapel in 
the middle. It stands 3 or 4 miles from Verona, 
and is turned into a powder magazine. 

A Cemetery, in the Campo Marzio, outside Porta 
Vittoria, laid out by Barbierl, 1832, is 600 feet 
square, within a colonnade, and is one of the best 
in this part of Italy. 

Statue of Garibaldi (by Bordoni, 1887), repre- 
sented on horseback, in the Piazza dell' Indipen- 
denza, adorned with gardens, in which is the 
Post-OJice. 

Calderari is the architect of the Seminario for 
Priests and of the Casa Cocastelli. The Collegio 
de' Fanciulli (for children) is the work of Mala- 
came, 1822. 

The ancient Chapter Library^ annexed to the 
Cathedral, contains 16,000 volumes, and 540 MSS., 
some as old as the fourth century, among which 
are several poems by Dante. It was here that 
Petrarch discovered Cicero's Epistles and Fami- 
liares; and Niebuhr, in 1816, the Institutes of 
Gains, a Roman lawyer of the time of Antoninus 
Pius. The latter MS. is a palimpsest, consisting 
of 127 skins of parchment, on which the four books 
of Gains had been first written; these were 
washed or scraped out by the monks of a later day, 
and re-writtcn with the Epistles of St. Jerome (one 
portion has been used twice over). In this con- 
dition the original, with all its erasures and ab- 
breviations, was made out, and first published in 
1820. 

Six Bridges cross the Adige, besides the one 
(closed) near the old Castel Scaligeri. That of di 
Pietra, or Ponte della Pietra, built by Fra Gio- 
condo. which has two Roman arches in it, leads to 
the barracks on the site of the Castel and Church 
of S. Pietro, in Veronetta ; this castle was occupied 
by the French, 1797, after a hard struggle. From 
it and from Castel Felice bastion, behind it, there 
is a fine prospect of the country around, as well as 
from the Qiardino Qiusti on the east of the city. 
Below Cartel S. Pietro, near the bridge, are re- 
mains of a Roman theatre. 

Some traces are seen of the old wall of Gallicnus. 

Pindemonte, the poet, and Isotta Nogarolo, a 
learned lady of the fifteenth century, were natives 
of Verona, besides those already mentioned. A 
modern name is Aleardi, the poet, author of 
< ' Arnaldi di Roea," bom 1814, 



Steam Tramway to Cologna Neneta, 25f miles, 
passing through San Michele, San Martino, Cal- 
diero (mineral baths), and Lonigo, rimning part 
of the way parallel with the line to Vicenza. At 
Gargagnano, in the hills, belonging to Can Grande, 
Dante wrote part of his Purgatory. 

At Ronca and Bolca, many fossil shells, fish, 
and plants have been found in the limestone forma- 
tions. Ponte della Viga, in the mountains, is a 
natural bridge, 100 feet span. 

Among the products are gloves, oil, and wine. 
The silk trade used to employ 10,000 hands. 

A Congress was held here, 1822, by the principal 
powers, at which the Emperors of Austria and 
Russia, and the Kings of Prussia, Sardinia, and 
Kaplcs, were present, but no British minister 
appeared, though Wellington was sent unofiicially. 
It decided on allowing France to send an army 
into Spain in behalf of the old monarchy. Lord 
Broughton, in his Italy, describes a concert given 
to the Allied Sovereigns, in the amphitheatre, on 
this occasion, and how Alexander took pains to 
ingratiate himself with the people, by "rambling" 
about in pretended incognito ; a legion of spies 
hovering around him all the time. 

Excursions to Chloggia, by a line which pro- 
ceeds vi& Dossobuono, Legnago (page 48), and Badia 
to Rovigo, 56^ miles; and thence to Chioggia 
(pages 87 and 89) on the coast. 

The route to Vicenza is through a fertile plain, 
where the vino is twined round the mulberry 
trees. It is bordered on the north by hills culti- 
vated to their summits, behind which are the Alps 
dividing Italy from the Tyrol. These hills are 
chiefly limestone, yielding good red and other 
marbles. The Euganean Hills are to the south. 

San HarUno (Stat.) Next Vago-Zevlo, and 

Caldiero (Stat.) The Roman Calderium, so 
called from a sulphur spring, over which a bath 
was built in the year 1 a.d. Here, near Cerca, the 
French were defeated by the Austrians, 12th 
November, 1 796, who occupied the heights under 
Alvinzi. Bonaparte withdrew to Verona and 
wrote a desponding letter to Paris, but on the 
14th he marched out and turned their position at 
Arcole. In 1805 a battle took place here between 
Massena and the Austrians under Prince Charles. 

Colognola, opposite, was the seat of Count 
Alcssandro Pompei, the builder of the Exchange 
at Verona. Soave Castle stands on a hill near 
this. At a spot near the Roman way on tlie 
Cenera plain, about 5,000 coins (now in the 
Verona Museum) were found 1877. They are of 
the time of Diocletian, Anrelian, Probus, Ac, and 
made of an alloy called billon. 

S. Bonifacio (Stat.) it gives name to a 
family whose old tower here serves as a campanile 
to the Church of Villanuova. At IiO&lgO (Stat.) 
is a handsome Church, 330 feet by 99 feet, having 
two west spires and an octagon tower. Piazza del 
CavfiUi is tU^ ftlt^ ot ^ CveftX^. 



48 



BBADBHJLW'S ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



[Down the Alpone, 8 miles ffonth, is the f amoui 
Tillage of 

Arcole in a marshy spot, where it joins the 
Adige, intersected by causeways, one of which 
leads to the Bridge now marked by a pillar. Along 
this Bonaparte advanced 15th November, 1796, to 
surprise the Austrians under Alvinzl. Two bat- 
talions of Croats and Hungarians with artillery 
defended it. The French twice attempted to storm 
it amidst showers of grapeshot and musketry; 
and a third time Bonapaite headed them with a 
standard as far as the middle of the bridge; they 
were repulsed, and he himself was thrown into a 
pond and nearly lost. 

On the 16th the French again attempted to carry 
the bridge, only to be driven back with immense 
loss, especially of officers. They attempted it 
again the next day without success ; but Augereau 
having by a flank movement taken the village 
once more, Alvinzi retreated on Montebello, with 
a total loss of 8,000 in killed and prisoners. Fur- 
ther down the Adige are Valdiera and LegnagO 
(Stat.)» on the Verona-Rovigo line, a fortress 
and market town.] 

Montebello 'Stat. ), a town not to be con- 
founded with another Montebello, near Yoghera, 
which gave Marshal Lannes his title. Lannes, 
however, was with Bonaparte at the bridge of 
Arcole. A fine prospect of the Berici Hills, a 
volcanic range, opens out, on one of which is an 
old ruined castle of the Montecchi family — the 
Montagues of Shakespeare. Rlvoll (battle of 
1797) is up the Adige (page 64). 

VIOBKZA (Stat), 
Galled "Antica,'* or the Ancient. 

Population, 40,000. 

Hotels: Roma; Tre Garofani; Due Mori. 

Tram to Valdagno and Recoaro (pagre 60). 

* Chief Ol^ecU of Notice.— T^ttXTO Olimpioo and 
many palaces, by Palladio; Duomo, Madonna del 
Monte; Villa Capri. Paintings by P. Veronese, 
Bassano, <fec. 

The ancient Vicentia, of which the Consul Aulas 
Csecina was a native, founded as far back as 
B.C. 392, in a hilly and fruitful spot. It is the seat 
of a provincial government, dec, is of a regu- 
lar shape, and about three miles round, with 
narrow, arcaded, winding streets, surrounded by 
a double wall, and traversed by the Bacchiglione 
and another mountain torrent, which frequently 
do harm by their inundations. Of six bridges, 
the best is the Ponte delle Barche, or di S. Michele, 
remarkable for the size of its single arch and the 
beauty of its marble parapets, in allusion to which 
they have a saying here— "Buy a river, or sell 
the bridge." 

''Near Vicenza the white villaA'es and gaudy 
summer-houses, and battlemented walls of gar- 
dens, crown the summits of vine-covered conical 
eminences, hardly to be called hills. The imme- 
diate approach to the city is through a suburb of 
Off/jtetoa TiDag; bvt the general eflltet is madi 
^jvjf/esaiasrtlutn the indiriduMi azwufmitloa of 



these Palladiaa abodes, where mansions of porti- 
coes and pediments, with an approach between 
sculptured pilasters, surmounted by statues of 
gods and heroes, are frequently found to be in a 
cabbage garden, enclosed by four dead walls." — 
LoBD Bboughton's Italy. 

Vicenza was the native town of the famous 
architect, PaUadio (1618-80), the author, with 
Scammozzi (another native), of many of the 
numerous private mansions or palaces, some of 
which have never been completed ; so that on the 
whole the general appearance of the town is 
unequal. His buildings are in the Classical, as 
distinguished from the Gothic style, well propor- 
tioned, and usually having a front of two archi- 
tectural orders. His statue, by V. Gaiassi (1859) 
stands near his house in the Corso. 

The best work of Palladio is the *Teatro Olim- 
pico, in a narrow lane, so called after the Olympic 
Academy, one of the oldest institutions in Italy, 
at whose cost it was erected, though not finished 
till 1584, after the architect's death, by Scammozzi. 
He took for his model the ancient theatres, which 
were semicircular. His, however, is semi-oval, 96 
feet by 45, with a triumphal arch (in honour of 
HerciUes) like the entrance to a town. This is the 
proscenium, a place for the spectators, who sat on 
fourteen rows of steps, at the top of which is a 
tribune or balcony on pillars, 16 feet high. It 
holds about 2,400 persons, but is seldom opened 
except for balls and concerts in honour of great 
personages ; for instance, in 1855. 

From the seenOy or fadata itself (at the centre), 
seven avenues or streets stretch across the stage, 
in which are seen fronts of houses, temples, &c., 
carved in relief, and adjusted according to per- 
spective. All this is styled mere gringerbread and 
tnimpery by some architects, though it was 
greatly admired at the time. Part of the fa9ade 
not occupied by the proscenium is decori^d bv 
Corinthian colunms, supporting an attic, with 
many statues, of which there are ninety-five in 
all. The first piece acted in it was "OBdipus,** 
translated for the occasion by the patrician Giusti- 
niano, and acted by L. Grote, a blind poet of 
Adria. 

Among the Palazzi worth notioa are two public 
ones. That called the Basilica, or *La Ragione, 
used as a town-hall, is on the fine square or Piazza 
de* Slgnori. It is a Gothic edifice (with a tower 
866 feet high), improved by Palladio's loggia and 
double portico. It is one of his most successful 
designs, "being the only instance, perhaps, in 
which an addition of that age and style has im- 
jn'OTed a building of the Gothic period." — 
Fergvsson. 

Cipposite this is the Palazzo del Capitanio, or 
PrtfettiziOy of the composite order, also by Palladio. 
Here are some good works, as a portrait by Van- 
d3rck, a Virgin, and another picture by P.Veronese, 
St. Joseph and Bt. Catherine, and the Adoration 
of the Magi, botSi by M. ligoliiii, «nd Bmmbio*» 
St BoQCft healing the Plsgne. 



Sonte 13.] AROOLE, VICENZJL— C&imCHES, PICTUSS GALLERY. 



49 



Kear the last, and on the same side, is the Monte 
diPieth. 

The Piazga del Isola, where the two streams 
unite, is large, but the buildings are not remark- 
able. 

Notable works of Palladio are — Palazzo Porto- 
Barbaran in Via Porta. " The Barbaran Palace 
perhaps shows Palladio's style to the best advan- 
tage. The proportion of the orders one to 
another is good, so is that of the solids to the 
Toids ; and the whole has a palatial, ornamental 
air, and with as little false decoration as is perhaps 
compatible with the style." — Fergttsson. 

Also, the Palazzo Franceachini; Palazzo di Porto, 
or Ch del Diavolo, in Piazza del Telle, now the 
Seminary Library; Palazzo VcUmarano, with its 
colossal pilasters; Palazzo ThUne, a large rusticate 
but unfinished structure, now the Banca Popolare ; 
Palazzo Trissino dal Vtllo dOro, near the Porta di 
S. Bartolommeo, on the north side of the city. 
This last was one of the earliest of Palladio' s 
constructions. 

Another Palazzo Trissino, in Via del Giudeci, 
near the Corso, is by his follower, Scammozzi; 
and the Palazzo Cordellino, now the Elementary 
Schools, by another follower, Calderari, and a 
native of Vicenza, like his predecessors. In the 
Corso, near Porta di Verona, is Palladio's house. 
That of Pigafetta, the companion of Magellan, is 
near the Ba^ica, in the half- Venetian style of the 
fifteenth century (1481). Under the windows are 
carved roses, and the motto, *'I1 nest Rose sans 
Espine." The Palazzo del Conte Schio differs 
from other palaces here in being in the full style 
of Venetian Gothic. 

•*Vicenza is a city dear to all admirers of the 
Renaissance style, not only as being the birthplace 
of Palladio, but as containing by far the greatest 
number, as well as the most celebrated productions 
of his genius. Strange to say, however, it is not 
in Vicenza that these can be studied to the greatest 
advantage, as, unfortunately, most of them are of 
brick, concealed under stucco, and are constructed 
with wooden architraves, and all the shams we 
blame so much in the architecture of the present 
day. The city, too, is now sunk into decay, and 
most of its palaces are deserted, so that the build- 
ings themselves have an air of shabbiness most 
destructive of architectural effect; and are, in 
fact, better studied in drawings." — Fxbgusson's 
ArehitKture. 

About forty Churches still remain here; many, 
of course, of inferior class. Specimens of Mor- 
tagna, Andrea Vicentino, and other native artists 
are abundant. 

The Cathedral is a large, fifteenth-century, Gothic 
church, with a crypt chapel under the choir, which 
is ascended by twenty steps. It contains some of 
the best works of Zelottl. 

At the Santa Corona are— a fine Adoration of the 
Magi, by P. Veronese; a Descent from the Cross, by 
Basaano, • native; a beautiful Baptism of Chriiitf 
by G. Bellini; and (over theporch; Christ Crowned 



with Thorns, by Tintoretto, a rich composition. It 
contains some old Gothic tombs, and mosaic work 
at the high altar. 

S. MicheWs Church possesses a Tintoretto also, 
St. Augustine Healing the Plague. 

At 8. Bartolommeo, a Descent from the Crosi, 
by Buonconsiglio, and the Adoration of the Magi, 
M. Figolino. 

At S. Biagio, The Flagellation, by Guerclno. 

At Corpus Domini, the Descent from the Cross, 
by J. B. Zelotti. 

At Santa Croce, the same subject, by Bassano; 
and Paul Veronese's Dead Christ, in the sacristy. 

At S. Roeca, Healing the Plague, by G. Bassano, 
a fine specimen of this artist. 

At Santa Maria de Campagnano, pictures by the 
same master, and Pordenone. 

8. Lorenzo^s old Gothic church, which had become 
a magazine, was restored in 1886. It has a fine 
porch, and several monuments, amongst them 
Mortagna's. 

The new *Pinacoteea is in the Museo Civico, in the 
Palazzo Chicricati, a vast building, by Palladio, 
with an arcaded f a9ade of Doric and Ionic columns, 
restored in 1855. It contains several pictures, the 
best of which are — a Holy Family, by P. Veronese; 
a Madonna, by Guide; a Magdalene, by Titian; a 
half figure, by A. Carracci; Christ and the Virgin 
on the Throne, by Bassano; portraits by Bonifacio, 
Giorgione, <fec. An Assumption, by an old Vene- 
tian painter. Maestro Paolo, is dated 1338. But 
the most remarkable picture is>the copy of *Christ 
and St. Gregory I., of P. Veronese, which was the 
chief attraction of the Madonna del Monte Church 
down to 1848, when it was cut to pieces by the 
Austrians; it was afterwards patched together, 
and placed here. The original is in the monastery 
of Madonna del Monte (see below). Here also are 
the MSS. and architectural drawings of Palladio 
and his disciples; with cabinets of natural 
history, <fec. 

At the Public Library, or Biblioteca Bertoliana, 
open daily, are 30,000 volumes and 800 MSS., 
including a Latin Bible of the thirteenth century, 
and rare copies of Italian and other classics. 

Outside the Porta del Monte is a triumphal Arch, 
by Palladio, whence a covered arcade of 180 
arches, half-a-mile long, terminated by a staircase 
of 200 steps, conducts to the entrance of the 

*Madonna del Monte, a famous convent or pil- 
grimage, on Monte Berico, whence there is a 
splendid prospect as far as the Adriatic. Among 
the paintings is B. Mantegna's Adoration of the 
Virgin. 

On the top of a grassy knoll is the celebrated 
Rotonda, or ViUa Palladiana, a round building, first 
built by Palladio, for the Marquis Capri, and often 
imitated; as at Lord Bexley's seat, at Foot's Gray, 
and at Chiswick. "It is a square of about 70 feet 
each way, with a recessed portico on each face, of 
the Ionic order, and endoring a domla«.\«:^■a:l^s&«:«^. 
of 80 feel dVKC!a«.\.«t Va. >\jl<^ ^xto^, ^n. n».^v«>^*^> 



BiittiitBlll Oi 



bkadshaw'b ir«LT. [Section 1. 

'dhi^ OtjteUtfSaiUe.—^iltxio delU Baslone, 



Scatptart, by E 
byPMcontlW, 



AmoD^ otber ipou u Tlalt ue tbft Labyrinik. 

BrMto, Ac. Eicnrilun bj- rail ihrough Ihuvllle 
and lilme to HOlllO, 10 miles on Ihe Trent Road. 
Frooi BdlD there le > >Iion line Id Anlero ttirongb 
Boccbetlc, »nd snolhar of 3 mllei lo ToTTB. 

OinUBt, mnd V»! >ugiin> iMy be yliiled. 

Bill ham Vie«M to TrevlilO Ip. 89). paiilng 
tbrongb MtMddla (Bit CMtalftsnco, tbe birth- 
pltc* of OUTgiau (died lill). BbH from ClttB- 
SelU to BUMAO (pop- ILBOO), on the Bren» 
(p,B!), from which Mnrat eol hli title of Date; 
Md IS mlLei aut at thi> it Poutnsa, tb« blrtb- 

VbUBCOO- wliore ■ csrriiae cin be ebtained for 
Ike cb«l7b«iite bsthB of Aeoaaro, bBKntlfnlly 
ilttutei Mtang Dolomite monntalnJ, wtti good 



■tyleii 

roHlilicn, aCI.MO. in IBie the popaliUon vu 
•Dly U,IW). 

ifdltbi Puitl BtelU d'Oro (Oolden Bitiy. 
CrOBed'OrotfJoUen Croii). 

«yS; CalB PedroetU, » noble building, InclndtnB 
« i«b1do, or *e»offlbls wouIh and caHd liiBlde uia 
aiU wtib nurble ; tobj. 4Mte. Good Monullu 
rnDttDn, 9glt-t<]iiKii°. •nd fauAefn, or •ireetmeUi. 






loTlceni 



1 (pigs B9), nnder the fuaimem 
fl north, t,S»0 feet high. When 



It when EiicUno 



iiBn5 There are 



ne gute, and a high belfry, and con tulns the Lomto 
d ConiifUo (eilecnlh cealnry). It was the work 
I Falconetto (1(32), aid has frescoes by Flcrtglri 
a the front. The Palaiio del Capilane is nov 
leUnlTenlly Library. The bestCaf^s are bore. 

ino la hy J. Dondl, called "Dell' Orologlo," 
lante and Ololto at tbe Ijoggii Amiilea, In the 

I Che circular JYalo dtUa 

rio Eramannelo II„ oma- 

1 with lineaof ttatnas of oelebrated nallye* 

ud lUIIUBi _wllh those of MarchesePolaDl(lTeO) 



tK'E'm"' 



ttoute 13.] 



TIOENZA, PADtJA— OH17BCHB8. 



51 



A most remarkable building is the *Pdlaxzo 
detta BoffUme, or Salone (entrance in Via del 
Mnniciplo), with its high pitched roof, built abont 
1309, by P. Cozzo, upon arches, and restored after 
ft fire, 1420. Tliis vast Hall, without ornaments 
or proportion, one of the largest in Italy, 
is 373 feet by 86, and 78 feet high, and painted 
with upwards of 400 faded frescoes, relating to 
the seasons, the planets, signs of the zodiac, astro- 
nomical influences, apostles, and saints, including 
8t. Mark on a throne, a symbol of Venetian power. 
They were painted chiefly by Q. Mirctto, from 
designs by Giotto, furnished by Pietro Apponi or 
d'AlSuio, a famous astronomer and native, whose 
bust is here. Under St. Mark's picture is the 
Tombstone of a frecdman of Livy, whose house 
was in Strada di S. Giovanni (?). There are also 
statues, 4cc., of Speroni, the philosopher, Lucrctia 
Dondi, a learned lady, related to Dondi dell' Oro- 
logio, and Belzoni, the traveller, between two 
Egjrptian obelisks (?), which he gave to his native 
town; with the model of a large Horse by Dona- 
tello. At one end is the Lapis Vttuperii, a black 
granite stone, or cutty stool, where it was the 
custom for an insolvent debtor to sit on his naked 
breech, and declare three times that he was not 
worth so much. He was then released from his 
oreditors. Many inscriptions, Ac, are placed in 
the corridors. 

The Cathedral, or *Duomo, in Piazza del Santo, 
was rebuilt in the sixteenth-eighteenth centuries 
by Andrea della Valle. It is large, but has 
nothing remarkable about it, though M. Angelo, 
they say, gave the design. From a want of 
^egance in the details, it produces little good 
artutic effect. It contains some monuments of 
Speroni and his daughter; of Bishop Barocci; 
A Madonna by Padovanino, paintings by Cam- 
pagnola, A«., and Rinaldo's bust of Petrarch, 
who v^as a canon of this church, and died at 
Arqu2^ near this. In the sacristry is a good 
fresco portrait, cut out of the house he lived in 
at Padua ; a Greek silver vase of curious work is 
used at confirmations. They show also a bimntiful 
missal on vellum, printed at Venice, 1498, full of 
miniatures. The detached Baptistery was built 
by Francis Carrara's wife, about 1380, and is 
covered with good frescoes by painters of Giotto's 
school. The chapter library contains 10,000 
volumes and some MSS. A bust of Petrarch was 
placed in it, 1817, by A. Barba. 

8. Antonio or II 8anto^ dedicated to the patron 
sain^ of the city, and a very ornamental structure. 
St. Anthony died here, 1231 ; and his relics arc of 
oonrse tolerably authentic, and are duly honoured. 
This great brick church was built 1265-1307, 
in the mixed Gothic style, by Nlccolb di Pisa(?) 
the seven cupolas being added in the fifteenth 
century. It is a cross, 280 feet by 140, with a 
front of 117 feet. **It8 Eastern domes, German 
■pires, and narrow galleries of pointed arches 
vp an aggregate that oould exist no- 



where else. An uglier church can hardly be 
found." — (Fergutioni) The arches are round and 
pointed. Above the chief portal are two figures 
of St. Bernard and St. Anthony, painted by Man- 
tegna, but since retouched. In the square fronting 
it is Donatello's bronze statue, on horseback, of 
Gattamelata, or Erasmo da Nami, the Condottiere 
leader; one of the oldest works of the kind. 

The interior is very full of carving, painting, 
sculpture, ex-votos, especially the saint'* chapel^ 
with its gold and silver lamps, and silver cofSn, 
and rich shrine, by Sansovino; having a facade 
of fine arches, above which are niched statues 
by Pironi, Alleo, Ac. The altar, built 1508, is 
of vcrde antico, surrounded by bronze statues, 
of saints (Anthony, Bonavontura, Louis, Ac), by 
T. Aspetti ; who also made the angels which carry 
A. Riccio's fine candelabra. One lamp is the gift 
of the Empress Eugenic. Two other gi'oups, by 
F. Parodi and O. Marinali, bear silver candelabra, 
weighing 1,600 and 1,400 ounces respectively. 
Nine or ten bas-reliefs on the walls are by Bardi, 
Padovanino, Campagna, Sansovino, Felucca, Ae. 
The silver doors of this chapel were painted over 
by the monks to save them from the French. 

The Chapel of the Madonna Mora (the black 
Madonna) has a sitting figure of the Virgin in 
marble (1392), decked out. In S. Luca's Chapel are 
wall paintings by Padovanino. In the choir 
are bronze gates by F. Aspetti, bronzes on the 
organ by Donatello ; twelve bas-reliefs from the 
Old Testament byVillano (1488) and A.Riccio; 
bronzes'round the altar ; and statues in bronze by 
Dunatello and T. Mincio; a beautiful bronze 
candelabrum by A. Riccio (1607-17); a bronze 
crucifix and bas-rclicfs (Christ in the Tomb), also 
by Donatello, to whom the bas-reliefs in St. 
Sacrament Chapel are also due. The Sanctuary 
(built 1690) has sculptures by F. Parodi, and 
relics of the saints ; the Sacristy, various carvings 
in wood ; and the Chapter House, traces of Giotto's 
frescoes. In S. Felice Chapel, which, till 1508, 
was dedicated to St. James, are frescoes relating 
to the latter, by Da Zevio and D'Avanzo (1376), 
besides sculptureA of the same date. In the body 
of the church are monuments of Sesio (by Parodi) 
who fell when Venice was attacked by the Turkish 
fleet, 1683; of Archbishop Trombelta, with his 
bronze bust, by Riccio ; of General Contarini, by 
Sammicheli ; Helen Piscopia, a learned lady ; Car- 
dinal Bembo, by Sammicheli ; and Cesarotti, the 
scholar ; with four organs in the choir. 

At the Scuola (school, or brotherhood) del Santo 
(Antonio), close by, are a series of frescoes 
relating to the miracles of St. Anthony ; three or 
four of which are by Titian (one contains his own 
portrait) ; others by Campagnola, Ac. 

A Fiera del Santo, or St. Anthony's Horse Fair, 
is held in June, when the animals are blessed by 
the priest. Here polesini di Rovigo are bou«,h.t 
for exportation to Rom«^ -^Vkin^ >C&»<3 vc% ^tt3tK.^>aDi. 



5S 



BItAD8HAW*8 ITlLt. 



[Section i. 



Anthony is sold, gWIng the saint's discourse to 
the fishes, beginning '* Cari ed amati pesci," and 
ending with the benediction. 

S. Oeorgio, near St. Anthony's Church, was built 
1377, as a Mausoleum for the Lupi family, and has 
Itome fresco paintings by Avanzi and Da Zevio. 

OH Eremitani (or the Hermitage Church), near 
the Arena, built 1376, for the Augustines, has 
eanopied tombs of the Carrara family (an inscrip- 
tion for Jacopo C. is by Petrarch), and Benavides, 
the priest, by Amman ati; with Guarento's fresco 
of the Last Judgment in the choir ; some by Man- 
tegna and his pupils, Ac, in S. Jacopo's Chapel ; 
a St. John Baptist, by Guido, in the sacristy ; a 
funeral urn to William of Orange, by Canova; 
and a bust by him in the cemetery to Mad. Calem- 
berg. The frescoes by *Mantegna, almost the only 
frescoes by this master, are in bad condition, 
and some of the principal figures have disappeared. 

Santa Xaria delC Annuntiata or *Madonna delF 
Arena^ on the site of a Roman Amphitheatre, 
which the predecessors of Enrico di Serovegno 
tamed into a castle, was built for him, 1303, by 
Giotto, who also adorned it with a series of fres- 
coes. It is a small, plain Gothic building, usiially 
called '* Giotto's Chapel,'' pierced with windows 
on one side only, and contains the founder's monu- 
ment by John of Pisa, and his statue. *Oiotto's 
Frescoes number forty-three, representing the Life 
of Christ, and the Legends of the Virgin, and 
include the celebrated Last Judgment^ with the 
Virtues and Vices, which they say was in part 
prompted by Dante, with whom Giotto lived at 
the time. They are on a blue grround, with ara- 
besques, saints, Ac, filling up the spaces, which 
are separated by painted borders, without any 
attempt at architectural ornament. Copies in 
chromo-lithog^aphy have been published by the 
Arundel Society. A fee is demanded. 

In Seuola del Carmine are paintings by Cam- 
pagnola, Titian (The Visitation), and P. Vecchio. 

S. Francesco^ built by Sansoviuo, has paintings 
by P. Veronese, and carved stalls. 

Santa Oiustina is a handsome, lofty building, 
807 feet long, on the site of an ancient temple; 
rebuilt, 1621-49, by A. Riccio and A. Morone; 
with a fine open lofty nave and eight cupolas, one 
of which is 130 feet high. It contains the tomb of 
St. Lulce, by G. Mussato, with P. Veronese's 
Martyrdom of Santa Ginstlna, including his own 
portrait; and a Madonna, by Romanino; beside 
some seat carvings in the choir. St. Luke's por- 
trait of the Virgin and Child are also shown. In 
the cloisters of the great Benedictine Convent, to 
which it is attached, are a very old piece of sculp- 
ture (about 1000) and some other clever statues of 
a later date. It has an excellent library, much of 
which was dispersed at the Revolution, but it is 
■till rich in first editions, and contains Petrarch's 
Jaiter to G. Doudi. It is further noted as being 
f" ^^^ sappoaed she of *Livy^s Orave, to whom 
iiSi% ^ ^f ,/McrJptioa, with » tfUMt nurked 



S. Canzione contains Danini's Miracle of the 
Miser (with the portrait of Fabricius, the anato- 
mist), and others by A. Riccio. 

3. Oaetano was built by Scamozzi, 1586. 

The Bishop's Palace (Palazzo Vescovlle) has 
paintings by Ricci and others, one being a portrait 
of *Petrarch. At the Seminario for Priests, 
attached to Santa Maria in Vanzo, is a library of 
55,000 volumes and 800 MSS. It was here that 
Forcellini brought out his great Latin Lexicon. 

The Mttseo Civieo contains the Municipal Library, 
Archives, and a collection of pictures, with some 
antiquities. The best pictures are by Boccaccino, 
Morone, Garofalo, and Romanino. 

The Palace of the University, called 11 Bb (ox), 
from standmg on the site of an inn with that sign, 
was built 1493-1552, though founded in the tliir- 
teenth century, by Frederick II., and numbers 
about 1,200 students, with forty or fifty professors. 
In its palmy state it could boast of 18,000 students, 
but then Padua was able to send 110,000 fighting 
men into the field. It forms a large pile, with a 
double gallery, by Sansovino, round the beautiful 
court, in which are arms of learned members from all 
parts of Europe, with the statue of the handsome 
Helen Piscopia, who took her degree as a doctor, 
and died in 1684. Galileo, Fallopius, Fabricius, &c., 
were professors here. It comprises an Anatomical 
theatre (a good collection, as old as 1594), Cabinets 
of physic and natural history. Library of 100,000 
volumes, in the hall of the GigantI, attached to 
the Capitano (page 50); Botanic gardens (near the 
Prato), as old as 1546, in which are many large 
agaves and cacti, a fan palm (celebrated in a 
poem by Goethe), magnolia, araucarias, and an 
ancient plane tree; Observatory (in Ezzelino's old 
tower of Tommaso), and an institute of rural 
economy. The Observatory commands a view 
of the plain, the Tyrolese and Euganean Hills, 
and of Venice (on a clear day). 

Forsyth relates that a Venetian Senator, being 
once deputed as a visitor to this university, asked 
the astronomer if the observatory wanted any 
instrument ''It wants nothing," said Chiminelli, 
''except a good horizon." "Horizon!" said the 
most potent signer, "why then we must send to 
London for one." Ezzelino's House is now the 
Santa Lucia Theatre for marionettes. The Uni- 
versity Hospital, or Spcdale, is in the old Jesuit 
College, and has a chapel containing Canova's 
monument of Bishop Giustiniani. Dr. Caius, 
founder of Caius College, graduated here. 

In Ponte S. Lorenzo, near the house of Dante, is 
the so-called sarcophagus of * An ten or, under a 
brick canopy, near the remains of S. Stefano 
Church. 

Palazzo del Podestis, of the sixteenth centnry, has 
paintings by D. Compagnola, Padovanino, Ac. 

* Palazzo Trente Pappa-fava (of Bean Bread) has 
Damini's frescoes: and a marvellous g^oup of 
seventy figures of Falling Angels, cut out of one 
marble block, by A. Fasolata, in the course of 
twelve years* work. Above is St. Michael, and 



fioiito 14.3 



PADtTA, DOLO, MfiSTfilSi CBfiTOSA. 



63 



below is Pluto, and the attitudes and grouping 
of the whole are surprising, considering the 
circumstances. 

"It is a group of sixty figures, representing the 
angels cast down from heaven, out out of one solid 
block of Carrara marble, about 5 feet high. They 
are in all attitudes that the human form could take 
in sach a headlong descent, and are so animated in 
appearance that they are almostliving. Each angel 
is separate from the rest, but the whole are twisted 
and twined together in a complicated manner, and 
are most exqnsitely chiselled, even in the minutest 
parts. The wonder is how the artist reached the 
inner portion of the group. The Archangel Michael 
forms the top of the pyramid. Fasolata, the artist, 
had never executed anything of consequence before, 
but his patron, thinking the man a genius, took 
him under his protection, gave him a block of 
marble, rooms in his palace, and liberal pay, and 
desired him to execute a group of figures to prove 
his talent. The artist stipulated that his work 
should not be seen till finished ; and after twelve 
years he produced this, which is certainly unique. 
He was afterwards invited to England to execute 
a similar work, and died there, our guide added, 
of *home sickness.* The group is now covered 
with glass, as a Russian General, some time ago, 
whilst examining it too closely, had the misfor- 
tune to knock off a small portion of one finger." — 
Miss Catlow's Sketching Rambles. 

Palazzo Giustiniani al Santo is a fine building 
by Falconetto, with Campagnola's frescoes, from 
Raphael's designs. Count Luigi Comaro,' who 
wrote on "Long Life," died here, 1566, and it 
includes a musical rotunda built by him. Palazzo 
Lazzaro a San Francesco has a gallery of paintings 
of the Venetian school, with many inscriptions, Ac. 
Palazzo Pisani includes an old chapel, in which 
are frescoes, with portraits of the Carrara family. 

The small Picture Gallery of the City, or Museo 
Civico, in St. Anthony's Cloister, contains a fine 
work by Guercino (Head of St. John the Baptist), 
with Padovanino's Woman in Adultery, with the 
town Library, coins, Ac. 

Other buildings are the Theatres Nuovo and 
Nuovlssimo, Hospital of 8. Giovanni, and the 
Esposti, or Foundling Hospital, established as far 
back as 1697. Near the Porto di Torricelle is an 
old house inscribed " Opifizi di Torricelle," said 
to have been built in 1217. 

Its eminent natives, besides Livy and Pictro 
d'Abano, ar3 A. Mantegim and Campagnola, the 
painters; also A. Musalo, the poet, and Davila. 
Petrarch resided here before his death in 1374; 
and a statue near the Carmini was dedicated to 
him, In 1874, at the fifth centenary of this event. 

Local rail from Padua to Bagnoli, 17^ miles, 
passing through Cagnola. 



By rail to Ferrara, vid Abano (page 89), Mon- 
B^ee, Bate, RovlgO, Ac. (Route 20). By rail, 

viA Gampotfampiero, ClttadeUa. to Bassano 

(page 50), 80 miles, up the Brenta. From Gampo- 
Mopiero to Cast9lftlUlC0 and iq[on^MXauu 



From Padua to Venice the country is fiat, inter' 
sected by numberless canals, and highly cultivated. 

A local rail, 26 miles, runs to Venice, vid DolO 
(below) and FUBina. 

Ponte di Brenta (Stat.), near the river, ig 
succeeded by 

DolO (Stat.), where the rail leaves the Brenta, 
which may be descended in the barge, or barca, fb 
Fusina, from which you cross the Lagoon to Venice. 
But the rail runs vid Marano (Stat.) to 

VeStre (Stat.), where Palladio built a splen- 
did palace for the Barbaro family; and to Fort 
Malghera, on the mainland, where the shallow 
Lagoon, or Laguna, not more than thirteen feet 
deep, on which Venice is seated, opens to view. 
Fort Malghera was taken, after a bombardment of 
five days, in 1849, when the Venetians rose against 
their Austrian masters, under the leadership of 
Manin and General Pepe, the patriotic Neapolitatlf 
who died in 1855. Forts St. Giuliano and St. 
Secondo serve to guard other parts of the Lagoon. 
It is crossed by an immense bridge, or viaduct, 2^ 
miles long, 14 feet high, on 220 arches, 33 feet 
span, on 80,000 piles driven into the mud. Besides 
the arches there are several embankments, the 
largest of which- is 450 feet by 100. It cost nearly 
£190,000, and terminates at Venice on the Canale 
Grande at Isola S. Chiara. The mainland on 
which Mestre stands was styled the Dogada in 
the old times of the republic. Local rail from 
Mestre to Malcontcnta, 8f miles. 

Venice (Stat.) (See Route 19.) 

ROXJTB 14. 

Milan to the Certosa, Pavia, Alessandria, 
and Genoa. 



Miles. 

Rogoredo 4i 

Locate 9)\ 

Villa Maggiore 12^ 

Certosa 17| 

Pavia 22i 

[Branches to Vog- 
hcra (Route 4) and 
Casalpnsterlengo.] 
Cava Carbonara ... 28 
Zinasco 32 



Milef. 
Pieve Albignola ... 33| 

Sannazzaro 36{ 

Ferrera 38 

Lomello 41} 

Mede 45| 

Castellaro 47| 

Torreberetti 50 

Valenza 54 

Valmadonna 58 

Alessandria 63 



Rogoredo (Stat.), here the line to Piacenza 
and the south branches off. 

The greater part of the line is over fiat, rich mea- 
dow land, bordered by trees and intersected by the 
Naviglio Grande and other canals. 

Villa Maggiore (Stat). On the right is 

Binasco Castle, an old seat of the Duke of Milan, 
in which Beatrice di Tenda, wife of Philip VJs- 
conti, was beheaded, 1418. 

Certosa di Pavia (Stat), so called from the 
Carthusian Monastery, 5 miles Ico.'^iss. ^'«?6a..« 
dedicated lo \Jd% ^^«\.«w ^^t^gosR. ^'S^^ ^"^^?Si 



54 



ii9t 



BBABSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



and eonrentnal establishment. It was founded 
by G. G. Yisconti, first Duke of MUan, 1896, in 
remorse for his poisonings; and, after being 
suppressed by Joseph II., has been again restored. 
Hither Francis I. was brought after the Battle 
of Paria, 1525, which was fought hard by. 

The *Church, approached by a marble court 820 
feet long, is cross-shaped, 250 feet long; built by 
Henrico da Gamodia, or Zamodia, a German of 
Gmunden, in the mixed Gothic and Renaissance, 
or cinque-cento, styles; but the rich Fafade, 
with its doors, pilasters, bas-reliefs, figures, so 
crowded together that scarcely a foot of smooth 
surface remains, is by Borgognone, 1473-5, and 
others. As a frontispiece, it is ^'certainly one of the 
most beautiful designs of the age. It consists of fire 
compartments, diyided rertically by buttresses of 
bold and appropriate form; the three centre 
divisions representing the body of the church with 
its aisles; the outer ones the side chapels. The 
other features are appropriate and well placed and 
give relief, with light and shade, to the com- 
position." — (Ferguuon.) Eight Chapels run down 
each side of the interior, which abounds with 
frescoes, mostly by Borgognone, including his 
adtar-piece of the Crucifixion, gilding, colouring, 
bronzes, bas-reliefs, medallions, and other orna- 
ments. Women were not admitted further than the 
nare of this church, the Order being a strict one in 
its observances. Only the superior was allowed to 
conrerse. " I went into the two Cloistral quad- 
rangles. The lesser contains a beautiful garden, 
rich in flowers; and the walks are adorned with 
graceful bas-reliefs in terra-cotta, representing 
scriptural subjects. The large cloister enclosed a 
field of com. The views of the noble monastery 
from these courts are very picturesque. Each of 
the monks has a separate abode, which opens into 
the garden; and there is a little window-like 
hutch by which his food is introduced. "-^Z>r. Words- 
worth.) The Certo^a is now kept up as a national 
monument, the monasteries having been suppressed 
by government. No gratuities are allowed to be 
given. 

Certosa Chapels. — Down one side are the 
following chapels and altars, the latter being of 
rich marble and mosaic work: — 

Ranta Veronica. — A. Langine's Resurrection; 
C. Procaccini'saltar-piece; Borgognone's Madonna 
and Angels. 

8. Ugone (Hugo).— 8t. Hugo and Angels ; altar- 
piece, by Borgognone and G. Fava. 

S. Benedetto. — C. Comaro's altar-piece of St. 
Benedict. 

S. CrociJUso. — Borgognone*s Crucifixion, one of 
the best of his works. 

S. 8iro.—0. B. Saoohi's Mosaics ; Borgognone's 
altar-piece of 8. Sirus. 

8S. Pietro e Paofo.^Montaldo's St. Paul Re- 
storing a Dead Man, and Martyrdom of St. Peter. 

■^^^M»r^afA3e.—Mojit»\Ao^ii frescoes. 



Ftfr^rintfcfeJIZoMtrio.— Polpino*! bas-relief of th« 
Adoration of the Magi. 

B. Ambrogio. — C. Rosnati's bas-relief of St. Am- 
brose expelling the Arians; Borgogpione's altar- 
piece. 

Santa Caterina. — Rosnati*s statues of St. 
Catherine of Siena and St. Catherine of the Wheel. 

at. Oitu^pe.—E. Procacclni's Three Wise Men 
and Herod, and the Angel and St. Joseph; D. 
Bussola*8 fine bas-relief of the Massacre of the 
Innocents (1677). 

S. Giovanni Battista. — Carolone*s wall-pieces of 
St. John Baptist. 

8. Michele. — Nuvoleno's Abraham and the Three 
Angels; Orsolino's bas-relief of Jacob's Dream, 
Ac, at the altar; Perugino's altar-piece of God 
the Father, one of six by him, the other five being 
replaced by copies. Two originals were carried 
on by the French, 1796, and the other three are in 
the National Gallery. Raphael is said to have 
had a hand in these works of his old master. 

Santa Maria Maddalena. — Paintings by F. Biancbi 
and Peroni. 

At the upper end, in the choir and transepts, 
are the 

Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy), in the south 
transept wall. G. Rosnati's bas-relief of the 
Nativity. A. Solario's (or II Oobbo's) altar-piece, 
showing the seams where it was joined together, 
after it had been cut for removal by the French, in 
1798. Borgognone's St. Peter and St. Paul. A 
door, by G. Omodeo, leads to the fountain cloisters 
(chiostro della Fontana), which had some good 
terra-cotta reliefs. 

8. Brunone's altar in the south transept is of 
rich alabaster, dedicated to the founder of the 
order, with reliefs by T. Orsolino ; above it are 
Bramantino's frescoes of the ViscontI presenting 
the design of the Certosa to the Virgin. Near it 
is the 

Matuoleum of G. G. Visconti, the founder, a, 
gorgeous clnque-cento pile, by G.Pellegrini, erected ' 
between 1490 and 156'i, under a canopy. In the 
north transept is the monument of Ludovico Yis- 
conti and his beautiful wife, Beatrice, by Solario. 

Lavatojo de' Monad, or Little Sacristy. — Bust of 
the architect, and heads of Duchesses of Milan. 
A. Carrara's bas-reliefs; stained windows (1477). 

Dome. — Frescoes in the Dome, by Casolani; 
carved stalls in the choir, by V. de' Conti; Fres- 
coes in the choir, by D. Crespi (1563). Two 
marble pulpits ; and six niched statues of St. Peter, 
St. Paul, Moses, Ac, by T. Orsolino. 

High Altar, under a tabernacle, is richly orna- 
mented with marble, bronzes, agate, cornelian, 
Ac; bas-reliefs by Solarie ; angels, by Volpino. 

6ai/rtttia Vecdiia, OBposit* th« Lftratory.— 
iU^GielBi Ac.jby 0. ^maa«o\ K.C«iiti%tV«^rtraitof 



Bonte 14.] 



OBBTOSA, PAYIA— GHnB0ff£9« 



S* 



O.yisconti, and Onido's Cardinal Colonna; B. degli 
Ubbriaohrs irory ba»-rellefB from the New Testa- 
ment. Near this is the 

jReUquie Altar^ where the chief relics were pre- 
aerved. Fine mosaics by V. Sacchi, the work of 
ten years; A. Fontana's beautiful candelabra; 
Btatnes of the Virgin, &c.,byOrsolino andC. Sacchi. 

The cupola is a beautiful object, and interesting 
as the only '* important example of a Renaissance 
copy of the form of dome used by the Italians in 
the medisBval period.'* — Fergusson. 

The marble Laratory has a bust of the architect. 
There are two sacristies, a large refectory, a 
library, a beantif nl fountain court, a brick cloister, 
tUl eqaally adorned with bas-reliefs, altar-pieces, 
and irescoes, well adapted for contributing to the 
comfort of the former inmates, who at one time 
had an income of X40,000 a year. 

Borgognone, whose other name was Da Fossano, 
paintCMl the Marriage of St. Catherine (now in the 
National Gallery) for the Robecchino Chapel, near 
Paria, which at one time was under the rule of the 
Certoea. 

The railway is carried to the west side of Pavia, 
to Porta Borgorato, while the Naviglio Grande 
runs round the east side to the Ticino. This canal 
it an excellent work, and was constructed by the 
French in 1807. 

PAVIA (Stat.) ; Pavla ''la Dotta," the Learned. 

Here lines branch off to Voghera (page 11), to 
Casalpusterlengo, Piacenza, Ac, to valonza, 
Alessandria, Brescia, and Cremona. 

Population, 29,000. 

Hotels: CroceBianca; TreRe. 

Omnibus^ to or from the railway station, 25 cts. 

*Chie/ Oly'ects of iVb«c«.— Duomo, S. Michele, 
University. For the Certosa, see above. 

Capital of the province, seat of a bishop 
with a University, (founded in 1361), on the Ticino, 
near the Po, in a pai*t of the plain of Lombardy ; 
so fertile that it is called the garden of the Milan- 
ese, but also aguish and unhealthy. In Roman 
times it was called Ticinum^ but Papia when it 
became the seat of the Lombard kings, whose 
palace was replaced by the strong Castle of the 
Viscontis, built 1469, and now used as a barrack, 
with a fine court. The celebrated Bnttle of 1525, 
in which Charles V. took Francis I. prisoner, was 
fought near the Certosa Convent, on the Milan 
Road. It was plundered by the French a few years 
after, in revenge for the defeat of Francis ; and in 
1796, by Bonaparte, who gave it up to storm, on 
account of an attack made on a garrison of 300 
French, who, without artillery, bravely defended 
themselvesagainst 4,000 men-at-arms. Of the"100" 
brick towers which surrounded it, only a few are 
left, about 200 feet hij^h, one of which is a Belfry. 
That which was the prison of B^Mu»^ when he 
wrot« We"Coniolati<m«of PhlloBophy,"aiid wherein 



he was beheaded by Tbeodoric^s arder, stood till 
1684. A portico runs round the Piazza Grande at 
the centre of the town. The streets are wide, one 
of the best being the Corso Yittorio Emanuele II., 
running down to the bridge, and to the suburb ef 
Borgo Ticino. This bridge, of brick, is about 5M 
feet long, and, being roofed over with marble, it 
serves for a promenade. There is a ehapel in the 
middle of the bridge. The views ffMS here axe 
especially picturesque. 

8. at^ano, or the ^DuofM, is a modem eight- 
sided building, built (from a design by Bramante) 
in 1486, on the site of one of the sixth centurj, and 
has some good paintings, with a brick tower. • 

"The churches of Pavia are very interesting-, 
especially the Cathedral and Church of St. Michael. 
There is a sombre, severe, and stem aspect in thb- 
churches, which, with their f abrks stiil unfiniihedir 
seems to connect the spectator of the present day 
with centuries long gone by."— ri>r. WordncorthJ 
The Cathedral contains a line cenotaph^ or altar' 
tomb, of St. Augustine, under a Gothfe eanopy, 
with more than 200 figures in it, a work bcSfun by 
Campione in 1362. St. Augustine is not buried 
here ; but his remains, after their translation iiotu 
Hippo, were brought to Pavia, in 710, by Luitpraad, 
King of Lombardy, and are supposed to lie under 
the alter of St. Peter's Church, because a silver 
chest was found there in 1695, wftb the name 
"Agostino" in Gothic letters. They also show 
here the lance of the Paladin Roland. The bvilding 
is being restored. 

*5. Michele (St. Michael) Church, in seme parfV 
as old as the sixth century, is one of the most 
ancient in Italy, and a geuuine Lombarde'Reman" 
esque, with the characteristic round arch, tower^ *c> 
It is 190 feet by 80, and full of curious carrlass* 
bas-reliefs, and early frescoes. 

"This church, which took its present form 
either at the end of the eleventh or beginning* 
of the twelfth century, is one of the most interesting 
of this ago, and presents in itself all the features 
of a perfect round-arch Gothic churcb. Its well- 
marked vaulting shafts spring from the floor to 
the roof; the pier arches in the aisle are perfeetly 
distinct and well understood featui-es; the anglea 
of the piers arc softened and ornamented by shafta 
and other ornamental arrangements. With other 
churches of the age, it fails principally from over- 
heaviness of parts, and a certain ciikmsiness in 
construction, which wants the refinemeats neces- 
sary for a true work of art. Externally, one- ef. 
the most plciising features is the apse, with its 
circular gallery."— /'«*{7i«5<w. 

The very old Church of S. Pietro in Cielo dCh'O^ 
which held the tombs of Luitprand, the Lombard 
King, and Boethius, has been rebuilt. Here the 
bones of St. Augustine, as above nientioned, are 
supposed to lie. 

"A Teodoro may be somewhat older than S- 
Michele, and has a gallery divided into triplets of 
arcades by bold flat buttresses 8i|>rln«^VL^t<E<^'<!s^^9bfo 



Itu lrcAdeib«1nf t 



Cafmittt^ ]A It lir^ Gottilc brick cburch o 


, or IK:1 


Byr.ll,ingtoBhoor.; 


31IcbU.,orl!SmUei. 


Iseatb cenluiT, with plnnmclea In front. 




Ullea 


UlleL 






«"«"■«''' ■■■• »1 


FloreniooU Mt 


Banla Maria Cormala, or Oiaaptnia 


«, I> by 
fs worth 




Bor^V'D^ntao" M| 


notice. InilieclolMorioIlheAoen«Hn 


Convent 




PariDif TH 


lio< B Duke of BnOolk, a title iiuumed b7 Rlch.rd 


CsMlpuatcrlengo... I3| 


B.Harlod'Enii.... SS 


wuborl'edh'crebj hu'relulfj. Chi-le. 


p/rket.* 




Sre'n/.^"!!.^:: if.1 






Mr*, finely gilt; and S. ian/ionm, In the 
«xlo.Bro™t.ldeth«woll.. 




s~"--a 


lIXo*" !l^ 


The 'UuinriUf, Dwndcd by Cbirlem 




I'.vlslnfonnBrtHlcof "Ls Dottii," li 
nt tblrteeii collogea, with sbout 1, 400 


™J^ 


BTeat Roman romd. talle 


d v7. Emil'^ter tbS 


utd many preftBiora. Amena the 1a 




fie™'.''ef"fl.Tri4. p.U«! 


.nd Indian com. .preid- 




gni. bt. 
ersliy li 


Ingover.mmby but ( 


ttlld tnot nlone the Po. 
e«> caniili. Mo fallow 


• >Utoe al Half. Ke»p here, bi 


LenTlng Mll'in by 




VUtorii EmmuiuelF, l> tho hsndioiDe 








compltted In 18«3. Dorronwo College. 


fine pile; 




H re P.Tla 


WMfoonded by tbnt family; mother, the 


Ohl.ltfrl. 


tum> atl. 




hy Plm v., whose bronie ituide In It ; 


IMrdby 


HelBgiiuH) (Btat. 


MarlgnatLO popnia- 



ff Hospital ; K food th 



Ct Archbishop of Cantetborj. wai bor 

ly rail, to CaialpDnerlengn (piige GT). oi 
Int (ram Ullan lo the Boulb. 



honie. The^Chnnh. the Cemetery, und the 
It Office were carried by " — '^' ' '~ 



t'ay" visible, eon- 
le provinces of Lodl 



Tavuiano (Stat.) and then 
LODI (Stat.) 



Cava Carbonarii (Stkt.), tben the line run 

Bannimaro (Btat.), popniaiien, t,2i3, iid< 
the Gtogua Dt 
Lomello (Stat.) Population. 3,ei>3. 
Al TomlMrettl (Stat.) it joins the line I 
jP^^^* AlaitMoiilt, uid Q^gii, 4eialbed li 



'llSS, by Fradcri 



nbytheUllanHe. The 



Route 15.] 



PAVIA, LODI, OODOONO, PIACEXZA. 



57 



giano, but now nniversally known as Parmesan. 
Grana is the name for it in Italy. The cows are a 
black and white breed, imported from Switzerland. 

Lodi is a well built, walled town, and famous in 
modem days for the battle of 10th May, 1796, when 
Bonaparte carried the bridge of the Adda against the 
Austrians, under Beaulieu. It is long and narrow, 
and the French leader himself helped to plant two 
pieces of cannon at its head in spite of a murderous 
fire from the enemy's grenadiers behind their 
ramparts from the opposite side. Here Masscna, 
Berthier, Lanncs, and others, first distinguished 
themselves. The Austrians retired in disorder to 
Crema. 

The most important edifices are the i/un»ctpa/»7d< 
or Loggia dei Comizi, and the Hospital (Ospedale 
Maggiore) of Piermarini. The public square is 
surrounded by houses with arched porticoes. 
Among the churches the most noticeable is the 

Cathedral, or Duomo, an ancient Byzantine 
structure of the twelfth century, containing the 
relics of St. Bassano, and a very old relief of 
the Last Supper. The Jncoronato Church, by 
Bramante (1476), is eight-sided, and painted in 
fresco and oil, by C. Piazza da Lodi, a pupil of 
Titian. S. Francesco and S. Agnese are both in 
the Gothic style, and contain good paintings. 

There is also a female school, founded by the 
widow of Cosway, the artist. This beautiful 
painter and musician returned hither after her 
husband's death. She was born at Leghorn. 

Outside the gate is a large pottery work, like 
that at Facnza. 

Steam tramways to Milan andPavia, to Brescia, 
and to Trcviglio and Bergamo. 

Secugnano (Stat.), followed by 
Casaipusterlesgo (Stat.), i)opuiation, 5,7ii. 

Once a fief of the Pusteria family. Here the rails 
to Pavia and Cremona turn off. 

[At 8 miles from Casalpusterlcngo is PIe- 
SdghettOne (Stat.), population, 4,263, on the 
line to Cremona, near a fortified post on the Adda, 
where the Serio falls into it. Here Charles V. 
kept his prisoner, Francis I., after the battle of 
Pavia, and before sending him into Spahi. About 
12 miles further is Cremona, seo Route 16] 

Following the main rail, we come to 

CodOgno (Stat.) A flourishing town of 9,620 
inhabitants, having a trade in Parmesan cheese, 
and some good churches. S. Stefano (Stat.) 

£xcept the vines and mulberry trees which 
appear, there is nothing particularly worth notice 
on the road to Piaccnza. Across the river to 

PIACENZA (Stat.). 

Which the French call Plalsance, following the 

Roman name, Placentia, or Pleasant. 
Population, 35,000. 
Hotels: S.Marcos; Italia. 
* ChUif Oiyects of Notice. — Palazzo Famese, 
Puomo, S. Sisto. 

Wearenow in Parma, or, rather, in the late Duchy 
pl P|AS$n»«t ^MoU bolopjaped (o Ux^ 9x-l>iike ol 



Parma, and was formerly held by the Famese 
family, and later by Napoleon's widow. Maria 
Louisa. It is now part of the kingdom of Italy. 

Piaccnza, originally founded by the Romans, 
about B c. 2S0, is very pleasantly seated on a 
fertile plain, surrounded by hills, near the south 
bank of the Po, and the mouth of the Trebbia. A 
bridge of two arches, erected in 1821, crosses the 
latter river near the town. Moats and ramparts 
hem it in, but its chief security is a citadel, which, 
under the old system, was garrisoned by Austrian 
troops. 

The houses and public buildings are of brick, 
which gived it rattier a sombre appearance. In 
fact, Piaccnza is more like a fortress of the middle 
ages, than a bustling town of modem days. It 
has never recovered the blow inflicted by F. Sforza, 
who, on account of its resistance against Milan, 
took it by storm, 1447, and sold 10,000 of its 
citizens. From that day its commerce and popu- 
lation have declined. In the earlier days of its 
hihtory, it was lorded over 'bv the Pallaviclni, 
Landi, and Visconti families.' The Via Diritta, 
leading from the Piazza de* Cavalli, is the 
principal street. 

In the principal square. Piazza de' Cavalli, or 
Gran Piazza, are F. MocchPs bronze equestrian 
statues of two Dukes of Parma (1620-4), of the Far- 
nese family, who succeeded to the sovereignty of 
Piacenza in the sixteenth century. One is AJessan- 
dro, the soldier of Elizabeth's time< and Philip of 
Spain's governor in the NetheWands, agaihst whom 
the lion-hearted queen threw out her " foul scorn," 
in her celebrated speech at Tilbury Fort, when 
threatened with the Spanish Armada; and the 
other is his son, the tyrannical Ranuccio, 

The Palazzo Comunale, in this square, built in 
the 13th century, is one of the earliest large 
municipal edifices. 

In the Piazza della Cittadella stands the 

*Palazzo Famese, begun from Vignola's designs, 
but not finished. Its style is grand and simple. 
Opposite the Ducal Palace is the ancient Gothic 
Podesteria, or Town Hall, built in the thirteenth 
century, with a Theatre near it. The seat of the 
ex-ducal family was at PalazzoMandelli. 

Among the religions edifices is the brick Lombard 

*Cathedral, or Duomo, at the end of the Contrada 
Diritta, in the Gothic style, begun 1132, finished 
1233, with nothing remarkable beyond the curious 
figures and ornaments about it. The interior is 
crowded with painthigs of little merit, but in the 
cupola and choir are discerned the frescoes of 
Gucrcino and L. Carracci. Two paintings by 
modern artists deserve notice — Jesus on Mount 
Calvary, by Chevalier Lnndi, and The Presenta- 
tion in 'the Temple, by Cammucinl. There is a 
monument to Sacchini, the musician. The brick 
Campanile is 200 feet high, and has an iron cage 
for prisoners. Close by is 

The old Cathedral, founded 908, now the Church 
of 8. Antonino, rebuilt in 1662. Its o<^<».'«!swsX 
tower is as old a*\^WKcA\%.%\.% <sfi.%'«jH*is:^^s^*»*'^ 



58 



BBADBHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



liadonna deOa Cmnpoffna, tormeatij belonging to 
the Franciscans was bnUt or altered by Bramante, 
and contains good frescoes, by Pordenone and 
Sogliano. 

S. Giovanni has two large pictures, by Landi 
and Cammucini, and was built by the Knights of 
St. John. There is a marble monument of the 
Scott fumily. Dante speaks of Michael Scott, the 
wizard. 

S. Francisco Grande is a remarkable Gothie 
church of the thirteenth century (1278). 

*S. Sisto Is a richly ornamented church of the 
sixteenth century, with two cupolas, containing 
seyeral pictures by yarious masters, as Procaccini's 
Massacre of the Innocents, Bassano*s St. Martin, 
Palma Vecchio's St. Barbe; a copy of Raphael s 
famous " Madonna di S. Sisto," originally here, but 
sold 1754, and which is now at Munich ; with a 
monument to Ottavio Famesc's wife, Margaret of 
Austria. 

S. Agostino, a fine building, designed by Yignola, 
with a nave on thirty-four grauite columns. 

3. Sepolcro is by Bramante. 

In general, the churches, though highly decora- 
ted according to the usual Italian custom, are 
covered with ornaments of indifferent design. 
The architecture of their exterior is striking. 

Other buildings are the Pakuzo di TrUmnali^ a 
brick building of the fifteenth century, resting on 
stone arches; and the College Albcroni, outside 
the Porta dc S. Lazzaro. 

The Biblioteea Publiea contains a yaluable 
Psalter (9th century) and a copy of Dante (14th 
century). 

Among its natives, it reckons Gregory X., 
Cardinal Alberoni, and Battista Porta. 

The Trebbia is rather a famous stream. On its 
banks Hannibal defeated the Consul Sempronins ; 
and Suwarrow defeated the French under Mac- 
donald, after a bloody fight of three days, at 
Novi, dec, 1799. These and other names are in- 
scribed on the bridge. 

[An interesting excursion may be made from 
here to Vellela, the ancient Veleia^ a sort of Pom- 
peii, at the foot of the Apennines, overwhelmed in 
the third century, a little after Constantino's 
death, by a landslip from the Moria and Rovin- 
azzo hills. It is 28 miles south of Piacenza, by 
carriage to Rezzano; and thence by mule, crossing 
the rivers Lngono and Riglio, you come to Costa 
Pelata, and thence to Cima Fava beyond the 
Yeseno; about 8^ miles further, Rezzano, where 
the carriage road stops. Passing Castel Badag- 
nano, you reach the Chero, another mountain 
torrent, in the bed of which the path leads to 
Velela. 

After remaining buried upwards of fourteen 
centuries. It was first brought to the remembrance 
of modem times, by the finding of a bronze tablet, 
in 1747. The village over It was then called Macl- 
nisso. This tablet, styled by antiquarians the 
Alimentary Table, was, in fact, a munieipal act of 
srJv^air > t}m^ prorldbig for the support of 979 poor 
c/rj/ore/j, aad jg 8f feet long by 6§ broad. In i76*, 



Philip of Parma ordered fiirth«r searches to be 
made, the results of which are collected in the 
Parma Museum. They consist of marble and 
bronze statues, medals, inscriptions, stamps for 
marking ornaments, and other articles, including 
a pair of snuffers, made exactly like those in 
modem use. Another table, still more ancient 
than the Alimentary Table, is about 2i feet square. 

What building^ have been uncovered are on the 
slope of a hill. These are the Forum, Amphi- 
theatre, and Baths. In the Forum are the marble 
tables and seals of the money changers. It is 
supported by a Doric portico, and architrave of 
wood, running round three sides of the building; 
the fourth side was a wall of a basilica, in which 
twelve statues, now at Parma, were found. 

Coming from Parma, a distance of 45 miles, to 
this place, you take the rail to Fiorenzuola, where 
the road turns to the left to Castel Arqnato, and 
up the bed of the Adda to Lugignano; here you 
take mules and a guide for the rest of the Journey 
of 9 miles, over rugged hills down to Yelleia, on 
the Chero, behind which are the Moria and 
Rovinazzo hills.] 

FoUowlng the railway and the Yia Emilia, we 
reach the College Alberoni, on the site of 8. 
Lazzaro's old hospital; then come to 

Pontennre (Stat.) and 

FlorenzilOla (Stat). A small but interesting 
old town, with a population of 6,182; whence 
Vdleia may be visited, as above mentioned. The 
views of the mountains are charming. Passing 

Alseno (Stat.), population, 4,018, we come to 

Borgo-San-DoiLalno (Stat.), in a fine plain. 
It has a large and ancient Inn, ornamented with 
frescoes and arabesques. Population, 9,992. It 
stands on the River Stirone. The Hospital, or 
asylum for the poor, was established by the French, 
in place of the suppressed convents. The Cathedral, 
of brick, with its curious animal sculptures, is of 
the twelfth century, and is extremely fine. 

Castel GuelfO (Stat). So called after a 
ruined fortress of the Ghlbellines. It is of brick, 
with machicolations and several curious towers. 

A little further Is the fine stone bridge on the 
Taro, built for Maria Louisa, by the engineer Con- 
clnelll, 1816-21, on twenty arches, and 1,070 feet 
long, by 25 broad. The piers are pierced by eighteen 
eyes, to offer less resistance to the torrent. At 
each end are noble staircases leading down to the 
wflter-side. At Famoso, up this stream, Charles 
YIII. of France routed the Yenetians in 1496. 

PARUA (Stat.) 

Population, 44,000. 

Hotels: Croce Bianca; La Posta; Italia. 

The best Parmesan cheese, to which this place 
gives name, is made about Lodi. Good ham (epalle 
di 8. Secondo), cooked in spices ; bondiala sausages, 
trout, mushrooms. 

Conveyance*.- Railway to Placensa, Modena, and 
Bologna. Railway SUtion a short distance outside 
the eit^. 0«)iabiis (arts, 7S ctatsi ciltadUii, 1 Ir, 



ntomnzi., TxixBU, pasma— cbusobe«. 



•OManV^Mt^JToMa.— DnOmo. Bt«iuli Church, 
PlnaooiM* Mid Comg^'i St. Jerumo. Falscza 
~ «,Aud«my. PsIotlDzi by Carrcjcslo nnd 
, or PBrmeitgliiiHiio. ol the >>nDeta 



LlTlnet It iKTBcible jn ParnU. Thru 
thonitli. (roBi Ihe ele»nlfi,n of the lowi 
nalghbonrboodariliD Apcnnluea. It bloi 



BcuttlT engugb com Jinrrown for taoiuoconiunip- 
Inm Dnd capper, mineral wulcn, Ac. 

Tbs el(T. wtalch I> ■ blihop's <«. ud the capital 
of • prOTiDU, and late of a duchy, now Incorpo- 
rated with the ktngdomot Italy, naa made a Roman 
aoIwiT, oiled Parma, abaot i.e. MO. and may 
therehire boast of Iti antiqnitj. Llttl« of ihe ulil 
tlDW nmstng. ticept tirn small pillars Donr Ibe 
Steceata Chorcli, and a clppaa and garcophamiB In 

BlTsr. where Ibe Via Emilia crotaea It. and roniu 
alms d'Aiegtlo. Ilr. Haiiln'l. and Co7aa Vllt. 



which all 


■Ji'lhc^ 


S^f, 


"™dp 


nS 


^ntr 


""■^ 




Parmi 


-Hlan 


o. whu 






















ThaUrg 


eLomS 




bedral. 






a in 


the Golhl 


"fo'r° 


of the 




cent 


ry {11W1>, 






it> 








ripe 


nUlery. a 


id e"L^h.-.ldod 


mipoli 




Intl 


of 




ecoratc 






Uf ul fresco 


esof 




The 


ubjec 


Is" the 








tbeVlrgli 


■man* 




wdofa 


gela 1 


d. 


Inla. 




hlaOi 




rka, iho 














lebrate 


^H^ 






A. Ma»o 


I'i'S 


■IcUn 


.and J 


U. B 


Ion 


(the 



-J.whniie edit lonaof Italian w>„....i,„.uvu 

admired. There It alao a manioleiim to Petrarch 
(with portrait), who was for many years arohdoMon 
ot the cathcdnl. Manyialualile iculpturea, plc- 
lurei, and frcscooi by Kondanl. Qattl. Ac, may 
be noticed in the cbalr and other parts of the 
bonding, » well aa the sabterranaan chapel, wUb 
ita 2B marbiB Corinlblan plUan. 

Attbaddcofttieutliedralarethetallcaiupanllii, 
■nd tbe £i«eufl'r), orBaptlatery ; a rl>^h oclagonal 
bnlldhw of III itoreya, oF Verona mirble, bnllt, 
IlW-;i«0, bj Anlthuil. II nnbMni muij highly 



aSon-od plllan. 


wo betns ol Oriental mnitet 
Bflus Palling from hliHorae. and 


picture o( 3t, Oo 


a large holy «« 


cr^^^ata o(%„_e rtnglo pi«!e of 


marbfe, ofthctb 






amlUta, a white niarble chnrch. 


althccudoftbe 




Codvcnt, waa bu 




cent orlei. and Ise 


rlched with good picturea. among 


which are— a hoa 


uliful copy of Ibe St. Jerome ol 


Corre(tglo,hyAn 


tasl; another copy of hlatamooa 


Night, now at Dr 






cupola, by Correrelo himself. 




gnat work, n hen he was only 




■nbjcct Is '31 John In a vision. 


secluE Christ on 


bla Ihroiio, with the AposUu 


aronnd. The same Rreat anlst painted in chlaro- 




enla round tho raidt of tbe aanc- 


jE'lZ'criS K-' 


ihe dealgiii of tbe tgum and 


ellel. In tho frleie of tbo comlca. 


aa wdl aa on th 


oandcUbras. and tbe capllala of 


the pilasters don 


tho whole iDngth of tiie cbnreb. 






ihapcla liuTC tre 





1fi6»by a. P. Tcila, and. tbougEaniall, !• rich and 
olegnnt. and crowned by s cupola. In which is the 

Tbe Ca^pvclnf Church belon^^cd formerly to tbe 
Knlghta Tcmplan. It has a Conception by J. B. 

,. Spada, in the choir; 
St. LoDli and Bt. Ellia 



oil Chapel a armDged 



■caco, ™ moved from 
ijury it hii suffered, 
nnd Child, and hie St 

if the snppressed co 



iltccala or rallijig be 



I rtnlly bnllt by Bern. ZacMgnl, «boot IBBfl, ' She Kalded. tl 






ithen are the Thre< 
Bbn'snd'sn Adam 



ftc, given by the City Dl Parli to tb« 

jS.odhBUbraTv.funiideil ITTD. There 
iTlrgln crownfd)liy Corregglo f rem S. 



I Men In IWnif. 



undSl.Prancla, biV.B.S 



brouRrlilln 1816. Hen 



^be Ai^de ef Mailonna diUe Grazia 



undaoor.t.rfchi 

It VWtA. 
riWB,am 



compoBed uf , thougb It iTBB ne 



le grouml floor. Open, Id to 8, 
arkshic ol Cantggla'a works, , 



lal of the Virgin. Annlbale Car- 
I, 0. Maziuola— Adoration of the 
o-Madonna. Clnia da Concglinno— 
Throne. Rsphael- Christ In Gloty. 
nna, 4c. Correegto— Martyrdom of 



iM Svirla. 

Famat, which fernd 
lilt by O. Aleolti tor 






The Lyraun, or Colli 



I Hialory, labural 



ic, and an Inlere-tinR plan o( altaek and detmca 
modelled by P. d-Aufteneonrt, director ol Ihr 



Pleth (or belphig the poor, foonded u ; 
IMS, by Father dl Pellro, who flrsl eel 

Djected by Marin LoDlaa: 

"'.aGlaniBldliis 
■re notice. 
.llectionofPiir' 
Christ (palnled 



The FalaiiB MiinUlpale, dealgnad by Q. Mi 
nanKSUlueof" '' —,■■'-'-''■ — ■•■■■' 



t o[ wool 



entllbrei 
nally ope 



public. 



fioate i5.J PUNA, ttSaaio, (JaDos^jL cAstLB. 

FtOiino Fallarldnl poIHlici Itna picture! \>j \ Koadi from Parma. 
Oaleotti, Tempeita. Ac. ^ Cailel ME^ioie (9 



and Clgniml, On 

■ebcwl, eiilrance li 

The CawBi de 

hODHi, Injured, h< 



u and iupraper 



milei'} li open to Snziara <pBge i 



tbe^fodfJ, wbich, thou^ reealarty pluiuett mA i : 



S. narlO (Btftt.), popqlatlon. 1,301). Croi 



seeded to Turin lo pfforthernvDrelBnly of Contnl 
condltJonaU)'! and Oaribaldl being appointed to 



This l> the ancient Rhigitan Lipidt. founded by 

Bmlllau Way and the nen Kalian province of 
EmlMa. Tbii nxLd. under tbe name of the Strada 
Uaeetrs (the master road), Is (he chief tborouxh- 
fare, wllb another called the Corio delta Ghiirra. 
Aitcr bolng ruined by Attlla and tebulll by 
CharleinaBne, Re^glo came to tho (amlly of Eite, 



inight. • 



I .pring Iro 
HuggleTO. a 



VUllla, or pnblic comet! 

Ahon(»mlle9ttomll 

MaggloteHoad, Uianot; 



t C:IL011I10, 01 

IS. Tho m. 
p the Apci. 






(rieodof Bmtu>; another Cas.lus. a poet, whom 



jtiAi £•(• 38) and S]ieil& 



I remains of ConOiM CftStW, Thlcll be 



62 



B&ADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



the dress of a penitent, and on the fourth day was 
granted absolution after kissing the Pope's foot. 
This celebrated incident was brought into promi- 
nent notice by the negotiations between the 
German Chancellor (Bismarck) and the Pope. 
The nearest Station is S. Ilario, but Parma or 
Reggio is more convenient. The Countess's Chapel 
and portrait are at Bibbianello. She bequeathed 
her lands to the Church. 

Rubiera (Stat.), 7 miles, at a little fortified 
place, near the Secchia. It was the state prison of 
the Duchy of Modeua, and belonged to the an- 
cestors of Bojardo, the author of the Orlando 
Innamorato (which Ariosto afterwards took up), 
and Count of Scandiano, a feudal castle a few 
miles off, under the Apennines. The next place is 

MODENA (Stat). 

The ancient Mutina^ where Mark Antony was de- 
feated, B.C. 43, by the Consuls Hirtias and Pansa, 
who were both killed. 

Population, 58,060, including the suburbs. The 
women wear blue kercliiefs on the head. 

Holds: San Marco; Reale; Italia. Good 
zamponc or pettitoes; spongate, pani speziali, and 
other confections; vino tosco (red), vino trebbiano 
(white), and vino di Sorbaro, are the usual wines. 

Conveyances. — Railway to Bologna, Paiina, and 
Piacenza. Omnibuses and carriages at the rail- 
way station ; the former 50 cents., the latter 1 lira 
to 1 lira 50 cents., to any part of the town. 

*C%tV Objects of Notice. — Duomo; Ghirlandina 
Tower; Ducal Palace. 

This small capital of the little absolute Duchy of 
Modena, now the principal city of the Italian 
province of Emilia, is a well-built and handsome 
place, between the Secchia and Panaro, shut in by 
walls, and containing several arcaded streets, the 
principal one called Strada Maestra, or Corso della 
Via Emilia, forming part of the Via Emilia. Here 
is a statue to Muratori, the great scholar. A canal, 
from near the railway station and Porta Castello, 
opens up a communication with the Po. It is well 
supplied with water. At the northern extremity 
is the citadel, in Piazza d'Armi. Of fifty Churches 
and chapels, the most remarkable is the 

*I>uomo, or Cathedral, near the Corso, in Piazza 
Grande, founded, 1099, by Countess Matilda, in the 
Lombard style, and fini8hed in the fourteenth 
century ; has a stone vault and crypt. It contains 
the Rangoni tombs, and an ancient Modenese 
painting of the Crowning of Mary, by S. dc' 
Serafini (1885), with a terra-cotta Nativity, by 
Begarelli. Its tidl, conspicuous Campanile (1224- 
1£(^), consisting of a square base of 200 feet, with 
an octagonal spire of 115 feet on top, is of black 
marble, with a bronze garland round it, which 
gives it its popular name of *Ohirlandina. It holds 
a famous Bucket^ which, in the civil wars of the 
fourteenth centuiy, was carried off from Bologna 
as a trophy, and is the subject of a burlesque poem. 
La Secchia Rapita (the Rape of the Bucket), by 
^Mssoai, whose statue is hbre, and "who moflt not 
^0 ^m£cfuadeii with XtUU<K 



San Pietro and San FraneHco both contain terra- 
cottas by Begarelli. 

8. Agostino, or Santa Margharita, near the 
Reggio Gate. Here is a good Descent from the 
Cross, by Begarelli, a Modenese sculptor, a work 
extravagantly praised by M. Angelo; also the 
tombs of two other distingnished natives, Sigonio 
and Muratori. Madonna del Carmine, in the Corso, 
near the Bologna Gate, has a cupola painted by 
Paradis. 8. Paolo has a Nativity of Mary, by 
Pellegrini, a native artist. 8. Vicentio, near the 
Palace Gardens, has tombs of the ex-ducal family. 

On the east side of the city, facing the Piazza 
Reale and near the Public Gardens, is the 

* Ducal Palace, now Palazzo Reale, an extensive and 
handsome pile, begun 1634, by Bart. Avanzini, 
with a fine colonnaded court and gardens, grand 
staircase, &c. 

Museo Civico, in Corso S. Bartolommeo, princi- 
pally small objects, bronzes, <fec. 

Alhergo Arti, Piazza S. Agostino, contains at 
present the Estense Oallery and library. Among 
the paintings are the following:— L. di Bicci — Ma- 
donna. 8. Aretino— A Marriage. N. dell' Abate 
— Landscapes (ho is one of the best artists of the 
Modenese school). Tintoretto— Madonna and 
Saints. Corregglo — Ganymede. Giorgione — 
Portrait. P. Bordone — Adoration of the Magi. 
L. Caracci — ^Venus and Cupid. Titian — Portraits. 
Garofalo — Madonna and Saints. Guide— ^. Roch 
in Prison, and a Crucifixion. D. Dossi — Judith, 
and portraits of the Este Family. G. Francia — 
Asstmiption. Guercino — Venus sitting, and Mar- 
riage ot St. Catherine. A. del Sarto — Holy Family. 
G.Procaccini — Circumcision. Tiarini — Crucifixion. 
Pellegrini — ^Nativity. Pomarancio — a Dead Christ 
on the Cross. Murfllo— a Pea8a^t. Velasquez — a 
Benedictine. There is also a collection of drawings 
by old masters. 

The Library, or Biblioteea Estense, is a fine col- 
lection of 90,000 volumes and 3,000 MSS., besides 
archives. Muratori, the author of "Autichitli 
Estense," and Tiraboschi, author of " Biblioteea 
Modensc," <fcc., were librarians here. The Soliani 
Collection of ancient and modern engraved wood- 
blocks (3,611 specimens) was acquired 1887. Some 
of the rarest MSS. and medals disappeared with the 
ex-Duke Francesco V., in 1859. 

His little army of 2,000 men remained faithful 
to him, and was incorporated with the Austrian 
forces. He used to say he did not want "en- 
lightened men, but obedient subjects and sub- 
missive Christians," the very essence of a despot's 
notions of good government. 

The military barracks, at the Salicetta, were 
used by him as a prison for political offenders. 

The Ducal Palace was occupied by FarinL, the 
Dictator. It was asserted by the Court faction, 
and repeated by Lord Normanby, that this eminent 
man appropriated all the Duke's linen, which 
being marked " F." (for Francesco), would do as 
well for Farini. When he resigpied the Dictatorship, 
upon the union of the Duchies with Sardinia, he 
was as poor as when be assumed it; so poor that 



k 



ItODEHA, alM^riSVlO, OKMU, OSEltOSA. 



tbe PtotIdcIhI Auemblf t< 



i" Tlall9i,uweUui>th«ImuileiilliinrU' 
ecbiefnukenarwhicb wars AmaU (bom 



prlndpal notewortbrobjKts betng tbe terrft-cottAi, 

hiia°<i good theVre mid ruhJic'ganloaa.'' Qeneria 
CUtdlul wia bora ac Cuulietro, nsar Hodeni, 



1. loimUei ;iipiUI of 



Flnile IB B ells' «< 13.000 111 
TIB EdilUtk to the Pbihto. 

w atBtMo"the Chnteb, ° 
Cutel&anco IStat.), 
by PopTtrban Vin. HaTl 

tUmaggla (Btat.l, on a river ol Iho iima 

LtLTUlO (Btat.), on BDOtber mounUlo ilreui^ 
tbo wiidenl Lapiaita, About 6 ndlei fnnbec, 
Ihrongb 1 hljhlv cnttlTited trael. ii 

BOiOCIW, wfth tbe consolcnon. UonLe DelU 
OnudlB to tbe louth. (See Boate SO.) 

ROXTTE IG. 
XUkn to TrwlKllo^CrwnoM, Hantiu, and 

Tnilslio u«- 



uriVrvjuuoi 



MlebelBOKtlo Anurl^), 
OmrtKglo, bom "■"" 



14 aoreebia... 



Hilei. 
14^ 



Caranggto 

CuBlBttoVl«HD... 

CMt*»eona"" 
_ .^ (saw.}, popniBllon, 

" """ ° ra'^rri; 

u oppoud to the lde*l, whlchlabaiedoiiislecl 
Ule^il work li the Flelk Id tbe VBticiin. 
Cbrlel at EminiDs i, in onr Natioml aBll< 
ll|Mi«i!oletlo "u one of bit foUowen. 
.Orema (BUI), popoUtlon, S.S40, on 

brOnldo. S.UBTlBdcllBCroce,oDtEldethe to 
(he war to CreiDona. 

CKEHOiri. (SUt) 
Soltlt: L'llBlia (theben); t 
Keale (Royal Holcl) : II Capcllo (Hat). 





own from the OglJo andmnalnl 


he Po, ffhlcb 


I henceforth navigable lo tbe » 




e miles In clrcnll. and thongh tb 


I«n««Wlow 


r Iti BiresiB and houtea la igrccahU 






Bcayad look 


boat tbo place. Many of Ihe gate 


eeeryenotjo 






im>iio,ar Bell Tower, nearly seo fee 


ilgU, being o 






ea round tbe town. It was boi 


aal-M.Dntbe 








>y ?" o^»e° 


and Bplra. Thara are 498 Bleps D 




64 



bradshaw*s ITALtr* 



f Section 1. 



In S. Ncuaro Church are cnpola paintings by the 
brothers B. A. and 6. Campi, some of whose works, 
as well as other native artists, are seen in the 
Churches of 8. Pietro al Po, 8. Abbondio, 8. 
Domenico, 8. Lorenzo, 8. Oiorgio, «fec. Santa Agata 
in Piazza. Garibaldi is an ancient Qothic building, 
of brick, like the rest, containing G. Campi's 
Martyrdom of Santa Agata. Another ancient 
church, S. Agostino, has Perugino's Virgin and 
Baints. At Santa Pelagia is a monument to Arch- 
bishop Vida, a native of the city; ** Immortal 
Vida," of Pope's lines, who prophesies — 

" Cremona now shall ever boast thy name 
As next in place to Mantoa, next in fame." 

One mile out of the town, on the Mantua road, 
is the fine Church of *S. SigUmondo, which was 
part of an abbey founded by F. Sforza I., Duke of 
Milan, who rebuilt it on his man-iage with Bianca 
Yisconti, 1441. It is full of paintings and frescoes 
by the Campi, Boccaccino,Gatti,and other Cremona 
artists. 

It was at Cremona that Prince Eugene surprised 
Marshal Villeroy, and made him prisoner, 1702. 

Cremona was a flourishing town in the territory 
of the Cenomanni, having been colonised before 
Hannibars March into Italy, so that it may vie in 
antiquity with any of its neighbours. Virgil and 
Tacitus both describe the injuries it endured in the 
civil wars of the empire. 

By rail to Casalpusterlengo (Route 15), and 
hence to Piacenza and Pavia. 

By rail to Mantua, 39 miles, opened 1874, in the 
direction of the ancient Via Posthumia; past 
Piadezia (Stat.) near Gannetto, an old fortified 
post in the Duchy of Mantua ; BozzolO (Stat.), 
population, 3,966, the ancient Bozzulum, on the 
Oglio, with a castle formerly belonging to the 
Gonzaga family; CasteliUChiO (Stat.), on a 
branch of the Mincio; and Le Grazie Church (see 
page 68). 

Hail to Brescia (page 40), 31 1 miles, through 

Olmeneta, Verolanuova, and Bagnolt 

For Parma, proceed to Piadena, as above, then 
take the line (opened November, 1884) to 

Casal Magglore (Stat.), population, 15,122, 

at the ferry on the Po. Then to Colomo (Stat.), 
and by Colomo Castle and the old Abbey of 8. 
Marthio, to 

Parma (Stat.), on the railway to the south 
(Route 15). 



17- 
Verona to Trento, 

Up the River Adige, near the Lago di Garda, by 
railway, on the Brenner route. The stations are — 



Miles. 

Parona 7| 

Pescanteno ll| 

Domegliara 14| 

Ceraino 18) 

-«3!A-y 25^ 



T/i/sJapartJjrin AuBtrian territory. 



Miles. 

Avio 82 

Ala 85 

Mori 44i 

Rovereto A%k 

Trento 61 



Verona (Stat.) See Route 18. 

Domegliara (Stat.), nesr Rivoli, on the 
other side of the Adige, where Bonaparte defeated 
the Austrians under Alvinzi, 14th January, 1797, 
after a hard fight, the town being taken and retaken 
twice over. 

Rovereto (Stat.), which is in Austrian ter- 
ritory, is the nearest station for 

Riva, at the head of Lake di Garda. (See 
Bradsfiato'a Hand-Book to Stoitzerland and the 
Tyrol.) 

Hotel &nd Tension an Lac, pleasant and comfort- 
able; recommended. 

A town of 5,000 population, seated among 
mountains, in a climate so mild that oranges, 
myrtles, olives, <fcc , grow in the open air, and 
entitle it to be called the paradise of the South 
Alps. Two mountain streams tumble into the 
lake here. At the Minorite Churchtire some works 
of art ; La Rocca Castle, on the lake, was built by 
the Scaligeri family. There is a tine promenade 
in the colonnade, on the little harbour. 

Various excursions may be made on the Lake, 
which is surrounded by hills, castles, country 
houses, Ac, offering a great variety of beautiful 
prospects. A steamboat starts daily to the little 
port of Desenzano, besides the ordinaria, or packet 
boat, twice a week. From Riva to Peschiera at 
the bottom, the Lake is about 80 miles long; 
the breadth here is 10 miles; excellent fish is 
caught. Virgil calls it the JSenaetu, and notices 
the storms raised by the momitain winds. Only 
the upper part on each side of Riva belongs to 
Tyrol. Mount Baldo, comparatively bare, hangs 
over the east side; the west is by far the most 
picturesque. 

In the middle is the pretty Island of Tremelone, 
with Count Lecchi's house and gardens. Among 
the spots on the west shore worth notice are — the 
Ledro ' Waterfall, behind Ponale, 200 feet down ; 
Limone, and its citron groves; the limestone quar- 
ries of Tremosine; Gargnano and its villas; Tosco- 
lano and vineyards; SalO (population, 8,000), 
among orange groves, one of the most delightful 
parts of the lake; Manerba, where was a temple 
of Minerva. Wtirmscr marched down both sides 
of this lake to meet Bonaparte in the campaign of 
1796. 

For Trento (Stat.), or Trent, where the Council 
was held, and the Brenner Pass, see Bradshavo's 
Hand-Book to Switzerland and the Tyrol. 

leoTJTE le. 

Verona to Mantua. Modena, and Bologna. 

By rail to Mantua, 25 miles, three times a day, 
in 1^ hour. 

Verona (Stat.) See Route 18. 

The trains leave Porta Vescovo, from which it 
is 1| mile to Porta Naova; after which the 
stations are- 
Miles. Miles. 
Dossobuono 6| Mozzecane 141 

[Branch to Rovigo.] Roverbelia„ 18 

YllUfranea U Mantoa 25^ 



Boute ta,] 

Alter punlni 
bnueh line to 
Cusifliu 10 tJ 

VlUallanoa (Hat), 






Hantna, witli a nulla ol I 
The two KTCTolpiB met a 
CBplHKcIul. beliHiKliir In a 
The lutcrview InMal an he 
Tsning BflinluHB In Itullai 



if llth Jul)-. ISW, 
leadiilant. 

a luDH III CuuinX 
Jgiior Iliirelll-Bu^tu. 

lefthie; but the Ink- 

. Euctly Hs tlicy v<"« set 
1. m«b,.nlc.lly'|.irk«l lo 
nan ill II Taw which ilwd 

icclHl; Ihg Kaiaer liwlot 

«e<l. 

laid (he rBati of this nO' 



rapcctcd pence t ^ .... __. 

Victor EiniiuinncI ; the flerce rage ol Cnvi 
Testgna], to lie replaced by KleiiHVII and 
though ho continued to be the lualimprliiK 



ejery 



eoplsin their public rcceptlan. About 6 mllei 
'est ol Vlllofraiiea It 

T«lealO. "■> ">° Mlnclo, and ibc high road 
iHu^i^ilern to UantuL At Ihh iilacc, Villa 
[■nei. a bidlilliiR <d the Mvemh cantory, and tlie 
!nt ol a FjunilT revMaented by Cuutit HnlFcl, 
to the Italliiii I,egHtloB lu 



Bnd,waa,forlndtai 

m aa the mUenee « lue Aunrun uenei 
If the annual loUttary maaenivrei In Antnii 
cli Jonph Obtabliflhea hia liead-<|uarton Ih 
■e the battle ol Bullerino, and It win oooupl 
ouliNapoloQiinrtcrtheballle. "Mure th 
■■ nay- Ouul Arrlvabnir, "while otrultl 
t the gardeiio. to wblch my ptrmti gave i 
«, 1 sHVtheEoiperorluhlflBh1rtHleerc«« WT 

, ^— — ledijrriit 

the campaign." The alinplleltr of his hubltt made 
hlin very popular with the peojile. 
Hewasupnt IlirceererymotnliKr. Fuurdlnhei. 

unvaryln» lare at table. Unl hi iiplto .rf the frce- 
doui which •eemed to oiiit, the rtriclex tigllance 
was kepi by the police and the Iinperlaf boily- 
iruard. From hsv he sent General Fleury with 






Itappn 



> real!; 



dltgoitedwllb tlie qnarreli of bis jtcnerali. ami the 

Cross the Mliielo to Tolla.aboul 4 miles »ul1i- 
west, nearer the field Df »allerlnu. It derlva hi 
name Iroma'irm In the road leudlmrtv tile paisatfe 
ut llH MIncIo at Ile^hctta. uidliesou theT^e 
ofasainllhill. Ilcrojaa aplendldilllabidenRhiB 
to Prince (;h. Gonzaea, whose lainlty were Lordi 

Ju>cph 1.' Who'ir'Nnpui'ean I. pauolTthnuKS 
Unulna. the head ot Ihliold huuseira-'iouoarihgt 



mall commune was rockuncd at three nillllunsof 
Ewaiiiigcri. A pt«san[ road runs from Quito lo 
BlTftlta. parallel li 



This is the |>1au when 



niKle, Count Wrdlnnnd^ ^ Ae^lvcs a verj'pleuDiit 
dcscrlptlgn of hH relura tn t Iw old liniily Imne In 

perleetloii lu July. Two months Uler. bis molber, 
a lady ol Blxlj'-tive, nasaireitcd by tlio Auatrlana 
In lier own taanne. and ahut up In prison with . 



10 fcU at Sun Manbio. 
distniice tu Uantua. 
on, S,0«. Cole- 



MANTUA {Stat), 



llul and morshy thongh lenlle country. Mavlne 
been ttrong'y foTtWcd by the Auslrlans. and 
defended by a cliadet cotwlder&d.i.iV.'.TBv>»!^.*iJ*. 

" '"lIMft 1ft« Vl^ "A 'COB li;o»A««Sxi«.. ■Vl.'vi. 



■pMlolly I 



driTlng out t 



dlMstcri whicb Half 

■od U leiiBtli tell under Hi8 power uf tlm Guumgi 
(«inUv. who ruled hero In groat tplciidour tron- 
Ludovlro I.. In IBia, till Vlucciit II. In 1S37. Thi 
French look 11 in 1197, after ■ valLant roilatwico 
by oU WUrmior; but tho Au>ltlan> recnvoren 
It aeain In ITM. 
xSe Isrand o( MmHa, whlsh ii iilwut B mlleip 



i the Pn. ^ht 



a— both lanie 
h HKcnd It rr 



■IlKli^e. Andrea Mantegna 



by O. KuinaoD, lejuli out tu one o( tho llrKI^'o (ni 

BordoIlD [ocn the Cathcdrah Plana di>ria lirbe 

1(1 nineteen Chnrchc* are lat^ au<l bandviine, 
•Dd nuMtly ut Ibe tlxleenlh emtnry. 

•a Andrfi wan ralnillt In the Ilullun nrylo l.y 
A1b«rtl, raeeft the capoU bf JnTani. a Hpunl^ 
artlit. Tho old Ooihlo lover of tho flnt chnrch 
sUiodi cloM b«, hBThiir MiinRr-conrMs lUid comleei 

nlfioDt oolH4foo ud spin. Tho church la an 
el«a>.t and irell-prDpanlDned croBi, Ur ru'i long 
MdH foot biRb In the naro ind tniiHpla. "Inlor- 
oMInt u the Ivpo o( all iboso ohurcho, (ron St. 
P. ter'i doimwanli, erected In Ituly and in inual 
p'rte ol Europe durlnsthc la>[ tbrcoecntarloii."— 

iBrtOr. fliiasajToatcentriil arch. wellinpimrtBl 
'i^/i/Za^ert ou eaeb BldE, and cTowBUt by an , 
WORU^ PfiUaunf. la tbo portico are tncet ol 



by Konuiuo and F, CJeuioutI roipoctlToly. 

ponocclo, Iho pbUoAopbcr. 

Among tho best pletnroa aro the Annnnclatlon. 
by MaiiCognu! Adoration at Iho Hag], ■ frcico by 
L. Cuita; Cmclflilon, by Gulsonl; and another 

In St, Lon^lno'a Chnpel are freaeoes by RInalrlo, 
from dml^iA by Romano (St. Bebaatlan for 

liy Cnnora'a puplli. They ahoir, as a most nrecloua 
relic, A drop of rtarixl'a blood; alas Iho bonea of 
Iho loldler (Longlnut) who iilereed hli ildo. 

•S. Plan?, or the Cilhe.lral, In that l-|azza, near 
(he Uueal I'alac*, and one of the finct In Italy, 
was built by O. Uoiuano. and adoniod hy bl- 
and albyli by* PrininllcciD. The painlinR. of Iho 
the Oratory In a Madonna, by Hnute^a. 

Sanla Apollonla.—Fiaaiea of Iho Veiilca and 

Palace, waa built 1^ O-B- Bertanl, and haa a 
giiod eamiianlle. Notice hera-The BanllBm of 
Conatanllne. and tbo Martyrdoni of St. Adrian, l<y 
L. CoHla. fnm Benanl's dolnma, with the llartyr- 
doin of Santa fiiubara. by Bmsaiorcl. In llio 
Miciiflly la a golden baaln, anpposed to be the work 

3anta Bnrnaba contains, among other plctarsa, 
ic Ulraeloof the LoaTet,bTL. CvAta; the Dream 
: Honnald, by HBzEan<i St. Pblltp. W Orlolt; 
[arrlagentCanB.bT Mainnui ilt. aebastUn, liy 
Pagnl ; In Ihe iccHily, ■ Midonna. by HonalEuurl 
and by a, B. MantoTa.m, from designs by a. 
Roimino. The tomb nf Romano la pertiapa Ilie 

and Inscription are worn out. Ills house remalna 
near the Pulizio dells Gul>tlila, bnllt by him. 



b was dedlcalod for 



:a Poatorla, waa boitt, HM, 



Itoute IS.] 

eoudiHon. The frescoes ol 



UAKTUl — >CADl«r, CORTE, THB I PALjlVB. 



of tha < 



' »[ l>Un. 



cent Irom tlic CnMB, by J. Houiliinorl. Thoro la a 
Ubnrji vltb n UumAiillqiurlt, luoludlnu biuli 
of Enripido, Tlwlei, Virgil, THwrlni. CdlsulA. 
Cumnuanii {an Moroury), wid uOwr Builiorurm 
baa-relleh o[ FldLiKt<;tF>, Latxmn of Ilorcnks 



Xaeary. Ue« 

WitllBUtllPSO 



Cata Btrim 
luaikcd by 



k Flnlo 



uf Orphour 
». ...una and Apullo; n Mnie. wllluiut 

e Temuiiablo hnviiKi Ani ^ OkJU J/lm 
uco a colebnilHl phlluU>};LHt. with tlifl 
■■Anllinnehnni ns lunicliK qoiBniB"i 
i(, bDill liy (he anhltcu Bertnnl. 

Cata B^Budi. witli ■ ph.'Iuri!, auiiiHined 
adiiG u[ a. Huniuiio 

■atoil liy frlmmierlu. A 



■null BDtlqUfl 

of It Lathonkiu4iv viniif-ciH'. oiiit 

designed. It ii marked by a ( 
caryatid of faiitattlc character, 
palntlngi by himaolf and disciples. 
Palarit del OiavolB oljtalncd Us 
wondarful tapidlty with nhlcb it i 
founder, P. CereMra, 



UanteiniA. Giildu. Frni 



a sailer; 
la, l-arni' 



irhtcb record! the dcat 
bnl]dll1r^ after flftecn 



i[ Noreniber, IMit, o( 
mt of all tlie Ducal 
7s- lllncsn." ^of tMW, 

le Gonxaira family, by 



The •Dueal iWa«, now Oirte Utal*, near tlie 
Plana della Flera. la a vast, old, lrn«nilar pile, 
wilb great nuwhlcolatcd towers nud bailli'incnlB. 

and tbB Cons Imperlale. 

It waa the amaeat sent of tho Goiua jn». began 
by O. BnonacDlsl Bottleetla. In ISVS, aud nilarited 
md renewed by Bomsno, whoHs schIdb anil ehil] 

US loama areln aetaleof n^led. rain, and decay. 
1> tto nom called tha SsabAerla (Stewai^i 
Oa«^- vnOvMag tM Plum del PiIIdud; an 



Car of A'iwUo; Id IIh culling, li by his pagilla"' 

Al tho raradlso aparlnicnla, auun« Ihe clccora- 
tlona nf llie calilneta. Ibe ni;nc of tlie Ircautlfnl 
laabella. daiudiler of Hcrcnlea irKate of Pcrrara, 
wife cifFnDeli III., wllb the uwtla "funa olual 
tine che no" (iierbapa Yen, periiapa No) may bo 
nutlred In theTrolH, orTivy Booui, are Ireieoca 
troat the war of Tn^, liy Romano ; and Cnpld utd 
Luve. by pujilla of Manlcglu. Tlis Camua dcgll 
Aruizl coiilalna airai laiKilry. copied bum tlie 
fuuMii'CartoiinaDl Kapluel. ^oballtHa d«M 
Siiecdil UfluMoa) la (nlfof painllnin anil purlriilta 
by Boniano'a puplla ; inauy of wtaleli anlfered from 
thcFteneb Krnubllcanslii 17ST. All tlioe rooma 



aabvllt 



roat prlDGlpIo of L 
[B, which tliey alwa 



tnU liuildlnge, wlilch Uiey alwajra eonght to 
DFtit by iDcmaliiR the niunlHr of opeoluga In 
each slurey, and deeroaalnt( In conacqaenn their 
size, but ninkbiglheni at llteaaraetlnie umreoma- 
ioei,(«l."-/Vrff<am.. 

Faaliig out of Iho Purla fn«ei Is wo coma. In a 
mile lime, to lho»/WoiiDdrir*or.wr.-B»quaro 
Doric pile, built by Ftnloric II. of Gunzaga, from 
Rwuonu'a dmiBn^ and >o called eilbrr (nno tbe T 
ehajtcd piece of gronud uii which it etnuits, or from 

l^^'fcvt, but ouiy M feet higb^w^th'lvra rau^ o^ 
wlniluws, between Doric pllnrtera J mid Imnstlcolcd 






with iuli]eet» from i 



<Drt,tuwardBtbcbtlilgBaiid garden . Ihou^ ol 
' ■-' of good pnmoniuna, and ia uruamcnted 
'—- ' — I ito hlHtory of Ua»ld, by tbo- 

- , III" pniiiUi bealdee haa-rellefa 

by Priniallcclu. 

Frederic's ^^o^lc^ by Papil ami Rlniildo, Tlio 

the itury of Cupid nnil Piyclio, from Ilumano'a 
deslRns. In Hid CVunfi'a ihl Zndiaco tbe leaioiis 
are painted iin Ihe wiills, and the eI{,iis of the 
Zodiac In cinupuilineiiti. on the eri^tni' i„. 



wllh 



hie pnplla. Bale ikfli SI 
Sl^ismuud into IftnuMji, V 



68 



BRADSHAW8 ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



which he keeps his Homer; Cicsar barning the 
letters of Ponipey; nil by Prlmaticclo. *Sala dei 
Oiganti, a small room, adorned by the Assault of 
the Giant Titans on Olympus, from desi^s of 
Uomano. The figures exceed a seal e of two to one. 
In the garden are a Grotto and Pavilion, the lat- 
ter containing a series of pictures of Human Life, 
from the Birth to the Resurrection of nmn, done by 
Rom.mo's pupils under their master's direction. 

"The charm of his palace" says Ftrguuon "de- 
pends on the coffering and colouring of the ceilings, 
which display an amount of design and fancy, 
com1)incd with elegance, seldom seen elsewhere; 
but they will not suffice to redeem the building 
/rom the reproach of being, at least, externally of 
the tamest commonplace, as an architectural de- 
sign." 

At the Scmle Pubbliche is the public Librar¥, 
foinded by Maria Theresa, containing 90,000 
volumes, and 1,000 MSS. Among these are Pindar, 
the Hecuba, and Orestes of Euripides, a Panegyric 
of Trajan and a Virgil; besides the correspon- 
dence of Voltaire and Bettlnelll. The Capilupi 
library possesses 129 valuable MSS., serving to 
elucidate the literary historj- of the fifteenth cen- 

A little way out of Mantua Is Pietole, which, 
agreeably to *a tradition preserved by Dante, In 
hfs Purgatory, Is thought to be the site of .4n(2M, 
Virgil's birth-place. An old ruined palace of the 
Mantuan dukes, called La Virgiliana, marks the 
gni.t. Hither the Cardinal dc' Metllcl came for 
refuge after the battle of Kavenna; and here also 
General Mbdles gave his banquet in a Temple of 
Apollo, Improvised for the occasion; the Saints 
taklng'the place of the Gods. 

At Curtatone, on the Grazle Road, near the 
Mlnclo, on the 29th May, 1848, the Austrians de- 
fe Ucd the Tuscans, who came to the assistance of 
Charles Albert. The Tuscan volunteers were 
1 ^16 soldiers of the Grand Ducal army, and 1,166 
of the ucwly-ralscd civic guard, with youths from 
the Pisa Universitv, and other equally unwarlike 
sources, to the number of 5,00); all under the 
command of General Langler, assisted by Pied- 
montese officers. They were opposed to 8>,n00 
Austrian troops, commanded by Radetsky. The 
vllla'-esof Montanara and Curtatone are I J mile 
distant from each other. " For more than six hours 
the devoted little band held in check the enormous 
force opposed to them, and though the promised 
Plcdmontese support never came, the Tuscans 
gained the object in view, and stayed the advance 
of the Austrians long enough to enable the Pled- 
m^ntese to win the battle of Goito the following 
(lav " The loss of the Tuscans was very heavy ; 
but thev had done their duty to their country, and 
nroved they could fight like heroes. The names 
of those who fell are recorded in the Church of 
Santa Croce. Two Pisa professors were killed: 
and a third, Montanelli, supposed to be mortally 
woum/ed, /ifterwM^t recovered, and became one 

n^^eauify ^jf IS49 ajufJS^, 



Beyond this, o miles from Mantua, on the right 
baiHc of the lake, and within view of the city, is 
the Church of 

Santa if aria detla Orazie, founded, 1899, by F. 
Gonzaga and the citizens, In pursuance of a vow 
made during the plague. It contains a miracnl'>us 
portrait of the Madonna, attributed, as usual, to 
St. Luke, and much reverenced. It Is still a much 
frequented place of pllgriinage, especially on 
Assuuiption Day. The church Is an Italian Gothic 
of the simplest stylo, set off with many ex-votos 
and inscriptions. Within, arc paintings by L. 
Costa, L. Gambara. Monslgnorl, <fcc., besides a 
monument of Coradi (1489), the son of the cele- 
brated military leader, and another of B. Castig- 
lione, the friend of M. Angclo and Raphael, and 
author of the Cortegiano. This latter was designed 
by Romano; the inscription Is by (cardinal Bembo. 
By his side is his young and learned wife. 

Among eminent persons who have visited this 
church and left their offerings, are Charles V. and 
his son FcrdlnamI, Plus II., the Constable Bourbon, 
and even an ambassador from Japan. The walls 
are covered with a double row of wax figures (the 
size of life) of these and other eminent personages, 
bishops, cardinals, kings, &c., who have received 
some benefit or grace from the Virgin. Kach bears 
an inscription In verse. The art of making them 
was Invetited by a Franciscan of Acqua Nera, ia 
1521, but they require frequent restoration. 

The miscellaneous offerings are most various and 
singular. One is a crocodile or lizard killed by a 
Mantuan in the rivers about here ; and another is 
a piece of rope from a convict about to be hanged, 
who prayed for help to the Madonna, when the 
rope broke and restored him to his place in society. 

A rail is open to Modena, and to Cremona; and 
one, viVI Legnago and Kste, to Monsel ice, on the 
line between Padua and Bologna. (See Routes 16 
and '20.) 

From Mantua to Modena, on the Central Italian 
rail, the stations are as under: — 

Miles. I Miles. 

Borgoforto 7 ; Carpi 29 

Suzzana 12 Solllera , 824 

Reggiolo 17 Modena 38 

Rolo-Novi 21i 

BorgOforte (Stat.), a fortified castle on the Po, 
built 1211, near the junction of theMincio. 

Suzzara (Stat.)— population, I,600-.where 
Prince Eugene fought an indecisive battle on Ist 
May, 1703. with the French under Vendome. 

[Rail from Suzzara to Parma (page 58), 
27| miles, through Brescello and Gnastulla. 

Quastalla (9,544 inhabitants), near the South 
bank of the Po, a bishop^s see, and formerly the 
head of a little c >unty and duchy, united to Parma 
in 1749, and to Modena in 1847. Its history has 
been written in four great quartos, by a native 
author, P. Affo. Ouastalla. now finally annexed 
to the Kingdom g( Italy, stands on the Cristolo, a 



Konte 19.] hantua, curt atone, ybnicb. 69 

brnnchof the Po, which was the Iwnndary towards I Gondolas, with one boatman, 1 lira the first 

Me to 
cents, 
.cicnt. 

boat- 
tmon, 
1 the 

your 
jerves 
ost (f 
found 

J port 

icon a, 

* O. 

ncona 

irlaud 

a San 

masks 

■ .blfsh- 

visit« 

hctto. 
Ualto, 
hncar 

lO. 

a fine 

The 

ivour- 

ekets, 

anti- 

in the 

riatic. 

^ even 

.t the 

•ound, 

shorn 

wllngr 

flying 

have 

y the 
Dvino, 

early 
alaco, 
Bcalzl 
atorc, 
lurcli, 
locco, 
lurch, 
ro, S. 

(Pal- 
'orks. 
rarini, 

« porter, to whom po'nt out your gondola ; 6 cents Bordonc, Bassano. Del Plombo^ T\s^vmi^Cva^ >£ * 
per package is expected as his fee. Vcroix^te^ V«\tol'^ ^>»N«aftx '^'ftft«!H%N^c«v^x'*»»'^^*'^ 

There are upwards of 4,000 gondolas at Venice. \ Ca\\a\«\\o,«x^^*^\V\».\^« 



I 

1 

i 



vlrirU'sWrth-P™ 

r^kin„' the place ' 

Charles Albert. 

of the "cwly-Mj; 

the Plna y^n^TfJ* 
goavccH, to the 
cominaud of oe 
inontc^e officew 
Xu^trlau trjrjpj 

distant from CM 
the dev..tcil mtV 
force opposed t; 
Plcdtnontese w 
gained the objej 
Sf the AustrlftW 
m )ntcHC to wm 

fmi they had do 

proved they co 
S tht»se who r 

Santa t^^^f ^ 
and a third. M 







.veruu, ana Dccame one 
j^^rs."— T. A.Taollofb's 



bcon written In four great quarto 
Buthor, P. AfTo. Guantalla, now fi 
to the kingdom of lt«l]r, stands on 



Bonte 19.] 



L 

■ranch of the Po, which was the bonndary towards 

^ttodena. It contains a Cathedral, and five or 'six 

other churches, public library of 6,000 vohnncs, 

ichool of music, and a statue, in bronze, of Gon- 

MfTJl I.] 

Hodena (Stat.), on the Central Italian line; 
nrhich comes this way from Parma and Regf^io, 
Mid goes on to Bologna. (Sec Routes 16 and 20.) 

Venice to TrevlBO, Undine, and Trieste. 
VENICE (Stat.) 

" There is a glorfouB City in the sea : 
The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets, 
Kbbing and flowing ; and the salt seaweed 
Clings to the marble of her palaoes."— Rooeks's Italjf. 

Venezia, of the Italians; Venedig, of the Germans. 
Population (1891), 167,000 (including suburbs), in 
S,000 streets and alleys. 

Ilotth: 

Grand Hotel (formerly New York Hotel), 
Palazzo Ferro, newly fitted up; well situated on 
the Grand Canal. 

Danieli's Royal Hotel. 

Grand Hotel de I'Kurope, on the Grand Canal. 
Comfort combined with moderate charges. See 
Advt. 

Grand Hotel d'llalieand Hotel Bauer, with a 
large terrace, on the Grand Canal. Recommended. 
See Advt. 

Ilutcl de Rome and Pensi* n Sui.^se, advan- 
tageously tiituated on the Grand Canal. 

Hotel Beau Rivage, facing tlie Lagunes. 

Hotel d'Angleterre, Qiiai ries Ksculrons. 

Hotel Btitannhi, firat-class hotel, with excellent 
accommodation. 

Grand Hotel Yittoria, old established first-class 
hotel, situated near to St. Marc Square; Monaco; 
UotcrLuna. 

Boarding House, 1159, Calle del Luganeglier. 

Cqfe'g: Florian and Suttil. English and French 
papers. Restaurant Francais, over the Cafd 
Milituire, Piazza San Marco. Fish here in great 
variety. Baucr-Grlinwald. 

liesident Englinh Consul and Amej'ican Consul. 

Church of England Service. — Every Sunday fore- 
noon at eleven, at the residence of the chaplain, 
Palazzo Contarini Scrigni. 

Presbyterian Service.— "Soxt door to the American 
Consulate 

Reading Room. — Piazza St. Marco, in the Pro- 
cnratie Vecchie. English and other newspapers 
by the week or month. 

Conveyances. — Railway, to Udine and Nabrcsina 
(for Vienna and Trieste); to Verona and Milan. 

On arrival at Venice there is often confusion. 
When you alight from the train call out the name 
of your hotel, and the porter bchmging to it will 
* engage a gondola and sec to your baggage. Or, pro- 
ceed to the canal, which is at thelrontof the station, 
engage a gondola, return for your baggage, witt 
ft porter, to whom po'nt out your gondola ; 5 cents 
per package is expected as his fee. 

There arc upwards of 4,000 g'ondolas at Venice. 



MANTUA, CURTATONE, TBNICB. 



69 



Gondolas, with one boatman, 1 lira the first 
hour, and 50 cents, for each successive hour; 
Omnibus gondolas, 25 cents., it is not advisable to 
take these. Ferry across Grand Canal, 6 cents. 
For going about the city one boatman is sufficient. 
The gondolas at the railway terminus, one boat- 
man, 2 lire (without luggage, 1 lira), two boatmen, 
3 lire; these men load your baggage in the 
gondola, and deliver it at the door of your 
apartment, at the hotel. A good gondolier serves 
as valet de place. Gulden are attached to most (f 
the hotels. Steam launches (vaporetti) arc found 
on the Grand Canal during the day-time. 

The tide rises two or three feet, but the port 
is gradually drying up. 

Steamers to the station; and t > Trieste, Ancona, 
Chioggia; office at the Piazzetta. The P. * O. 
Company run mail boats from here to Ancona 
and Brindisi, in connection with the Overland 
Ronte. 

Post and Telegraph Offices^ both on Piazza San 
Marco. 

Lace Manufactory. — M. Jesumm & Co., damasks 
and hand embroideries, old lace ; large establish- 
ment (with working rooms), worthy of a visit, 
S. Filippo Giacomo, near Bridge of Sighs. 

^aiiiter*.— Blumenthal & Co.,Calle del Traphetto. 

Theatres— AW near St. Mark's and the Rialto, 
Fenice, or Phoenix; Rossini, and Goldoni, both near 
S. Luca's; Malibran, near S. Gian Crisostomo. 

Chemist. — Zampironi. 

The Capuchins of the Redemption distil a fine 
liquor, called acqua di melissa. 

The climate is healthy, though moist. The 
marsh exhalations create an atmosphere favour- 
able to pulmonary complaints, scrofula, rickets, 
<bc., for which sea-bathing is an excellent anti- 
dote. Venice is not a pleasant place when the 
rain comes down, or storms move the Adriatic. 
Then boats ply in St. Mark's, and one may even 
get jammed in them under a bridge. At the 
fall of the year smells and mosquitoes abound, 
and cold winds blow from the Alps. Hartshorn 
or carbolic acid is an antidote for the "crawling 
animals, skipping animals, humming and flying 
animals, which then (says Thackeray) all have 
at the traveller at once." 

*Chief Objects of Notice. — Architecture by the 
Lonibardi, Sammicheli, Falconetto, Sansovino, 
Palladio, besides Byzantine artists of an early 
date. Piazza of St. Mark, Cathedral, Palace, 
Bridge of Sighs, Campanile, Academy, Scalzi 
Church, Rialto, Madonna del Orto, S. Salvatore, 
S. Giorgio Maggiorc (Palladio), Redentore Church, 
S. Sebastiano, 8. Stefano. Frari, Scuola. S. Rocco, 
S. Zanipolo, S. Zaccaria, Arsenal, Salute Church, 
Fcnlce Theatre, S. Maria Formosa, Ch. d'Oro, 8. 
Trovaso Clmich. S. Francesa della Vigna (Pal- 
ladio), Gesuiti Church, and Murano Glass Works. 

Paintings by Mantegna, G. Bellini. Vivarini, 
Palina Vecchio, Titian (the Assumption)^Pot*Sftx.RKNfcv 
Bordone, Bassauo. l>«\ '^Vsw^qk^^ '^'«^'^'*'^^CI^A 



70 



BRADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section U 



Sculpture by the LombardI, Sangoviuo, and Ca- 
nova, who was born and died in Venetian territory. 

Spurious old furniture and Canalettos arc two 
branches of manufacture carried on here. 

Venice is outside the lagunamorta, in the lajruna 
viva, which, at high water, is a lalce of some few 
feet depth ; but at low water (the fall beinj,' about 
2 feet) offers a number of banks of sand and 
weed, in the middle of which are the streets, or 
canals, practic«ble for small boats or gondolas 
only. This lagoon, 6 miles long and H to 2 broad, 
is shut in from the sea by a tongue of land called 
the Lido, which has three fortified entrances. 

About 160 Canals cut up the city into seventy or 
eighty little islands. The largest, called Canale 
Grande, and crossed by the Rialto Bridge, winds 
through the city in the form of an S. Another, 
called Canale Giudecca, divides the city from the 
suburbs of Guidecca Island. Near the north end 
of the Canale Grande is a small branch, called 
Cannareggio, leading towards Mestre. The smaller 
canals are joined together by upwards of 300 short 
bridges, to facilitate the communication. The 
houses are founded on millions of piles, their front 
or back being turned to a canal. Each door has a 
flight of steps to the water, and the gondolas are 
moored to the carved and painted side posts. 
Good drinking water from public cisterns, sup- 
plied from the mahiland by pipes laid along the 
railway,or from artesian wells, sunk in 1847. 

Venice comprises six sesticri, or administrative 
divisions, and has forty-one open places, of which 
8. Marco, or St. Mark, is the finest; twenty-nine 
parfsh churches, besi<les the patriarchal church, 
the churches of the Greeks, Armenians, and Pro- 
testants, and seven synagogues. 

It has lost the glory and commercial importance 
it enjoyed in past times, when it boasted of twenty- 
four ships of the line and 200 armed galleys. 
It had a Bank (so called) as early as 1157. 
During 1816-17, upwards of seventy old palaces 
had been demolished by their owners, and many 
are still deserted, or converted into hotels and 
warehouses. Books are printed here. It is a free 
port (so-called) since 1829, but its harbour is 
gradually filling up. 

The last scene in its fall is described in Daru't 
Histoirt. Out of 637 patricians, only 200 at most 
refused to vote for the Treaty of May, 1797, which 
transferred the Venetian territory toAnstria. The 
Doge's sword was received by an apothecary, who 
bore the historical name of Dandolo. The Golden 
Book and the Ducal ensigns were burnt, and as 
the French marched out the Austiians marched in. 

The latest important event in its history was the 
revolution of 1848, when the Austrian garrison was 
driven out. and the Republic of St. Mark proclaimed 
under Manin and Tommaseo. On the defeat of 
Charles Albert, it was attacked by Radetzky and 
Ilaynan, and Venice once more came under the 
iron rule of Austria. But now a better state of 
^/iJ/i£'/9 preTunH; «nd here the King of Italy and 
/^0 Ai/'rfi-///n E/nporormct an frieinln on the 6th 



of April, 1873: A statue of Manin stands in 
Campo di S. Paterniano. 

To the traveller who sees It for the first time, 
Venice presents a curious spectacle, with its marble 
palaces, buildings, and spires rising out of the 
water. It was begun in this manner when the 
ravages of Alaric and Attila (407-62) made the 
people fly from Aquileia, Padua, &c., on the main- 
land (which was called Venetia), and settle here, 
round a church built on the rivo alto, or Rialto, 
There arc many narrow quays and dry alleys 
between tall dark houses, where you may walk on 
foot, and where shops for meat, vegetables, jewel- 
lery, <fec., are found, but they are not suitable for 
carriages and horses, which, being useless here, 
are never seen. Their place is supplied by the 
gondola, a gloomy-looking, high-prowed boat, 
shaped something like the lord mayor's barge. 
The word is of doubtful origin. It is first men- 
tioned at Avignon, 12th century, and at Venice, 
In the Cronico di Altino, 1200. 
• The favourite colour of the gondola is black. It 
is a <« 

"long covered lioat that's common here, 
Carved at the prow, built lightly, but compactly. 

Rowed by two rowers, each called gondolier. 
It glides along the water looking blackly. 

Just like a coffin clapt in a canoe, 

Where none can make out what you say or do." — Byron, 

Some are used as floating shops, and even the 
beggars go about in gondolas. Gondoliers (called 
barcaroli) arc foimd at several points, or traghetti, 
where the traffic is greatest. Though useful, and 
at times necessary, to reach certain quarters, and 
obtain good points of view, yet, the canals being 
bridged, every part of the city may be reached on 
foot, though footways are not to be found on the 
sides of all the canals. Steam gondolas run to 
the station. , 

In spite of its aquatic advantages, and the cheap 
convenience of its gondolas, the visitor, "accus- 
tomed to expatiate on terra firma," may soon g^ow 
impatient of the "moated imprisonment of a town 
where one's walks are incessantly crossed by a 
canal, and the thread of talk or thinking is cut at 
the steep steps of a bridge." — Lord Brodghton's 
Itahf. 

CANALE GRANDE, or GRAND CAJHAL. 

Itinerary of objects to be noticed in going from 
the quay of St. Mark's to the railway station, 3 
miles long, by gondola. The palaces marked • are 
in the pointed, or Gothic, style. The style of the 
Lombanii school is marked by richness and ele- 
gance. The palaces stand on massive stone base- 
ments of a simple uniform character, rising out of 
the sea, "but above the water they are as various 
as their architects. Some display the light elegance 
of Sansovino, others the -exuberant ornament of 
Longhena, and a few the correct beauty of Pal- 
ladlo." — (ForxylJi.) Most of them have two or 
three gates, with steps to the water, in the middle 
of their fronts, over which are finely decorated 
balconies and arcades, and the windows are gene- 
rally arched, either Qotl^ic po|ntod, or circular. 



Koute 19.] 



YEKICE-HJHAKD CANAL. 



ri 



lAft. 

Dograna, or Custom 

Hoii|«. 
Seminario Patriarcalo 

and collection. 



Church of Sta. Maria 

dclla Salute. 
Palazzo Dario (by the 

Lombard! ). 
Palazzo Venier. 
PalazzoManzoni (ditto). 



Right, 
Royal Gardens. 

Palazzo Ginstiniani * 
(now Hotel del'Europe) 

Palazzo Treves (or Emo) 

Palazzo Znchelli (now 
Hotel Britannia) 

Palazzo Contarini-Fa- 
san. * (Lieut. Gov.) 

Pal.Ferro(Grand Hotel). 

Palazzo Comer dclla 
Ca Grande or Prefet- 
tura (by Sansovlno). 



8. VITALB BRID6B. 



Ltft. 
Accademlaand Picture 
Gallery. 



Palazzo Contarini degli 
Scrigni (two—one by 
Scamozzi, the other 
half-Gothic). 

Palazzo Rezzonigo (by 
Longhena). 

Palazzo Giustiniani.* 

Palazzo Foscari.*. 
(College). 

Palazzo Balbi. 
Palazzo Grimani. 

Palazzo Pisani a S. 

Paolo.* 
Palazzo Barbarigo. 
Palazzo Bernardo.* 

Palazzo Dona. 
Palazzo Papadopoli (by 
Sansovino). 

Palazzo Pisani Moretta. 



Right. 
S. Vitale Church. 

Palazzo Giustiniari-Lo- 

lin (by Longhena). 
Palazzo Cavalli* 



Palazzo Grassi. 



Palazzo Moro Lin. 
Palazzo Contarini. 

Palazzo Mocenigo (By- 
ron's residence). 



Palazzo Comer-Spinelli 
(by the Lombard!). 

Palazzo Grimani, now 

Law Court (by Sam- 

niicheli). 
Palazzo Farsctti, now 

the Town Hall, and 
Palazzo Loredano, now 

the Municipio. 
Palazzo Bcmbo.* 
Palazzo Danriolo 
Palazzo Manin (by 

Sansovino); belonged 

to the last DOge, now 

a bank. 



BIALTO BRIDGE. 



B. Giacomo di Rialto. 
Palaizo de*Camerlenghi 
(Court of App«al). 



Fondaco do' Tedescbi, 
now Custom House, 



Lefl. 

Fabbriche Yecchle 
' Sansovino), in 
Pescaria. 



Palazzo Comer dclla 
Regiua, now the 
Monte de Piot^. 

Palazzo Posaro, or Be- 
vilttcqna. 



RigKl, 

(by Palazzo ManglliValma- 
the rana. 



Palazzo Michicli dalle 
Colonnc, or Martin- 
engo. 
Palazzo Sagredo.* 
Ch d'Oro, belonged to 
Mdlle. Taglionl. 



Palazzo Tron. 
Palazzo 
Longhena). 



Battagia 



Palazzo Grimani dellA 
Yida (by Scamozzl). 

(l)y Palazzo Vendramln Ca- 
lergi, (by P. Lom- 
bardo) ; belongs to 
Duca della Grazia. 



Fondaco de' Turchi. 
Museo Correr; bequeathed 
to the city, with its Cannareggio. Up thU 
paintings, marbles, short canal are — 
<Src. Palazzo Manfriu, I*a- 

lazzo Galvagna. 
Palazzo Labia. 
Scalzi Church. 

IRON BRIDGE. 

S. Simeone Church. Railway Station. 



S. Lucia Church. 
Corpus Domini Church. 



Palazzo Papadopoli. 

La Croce Church. 
Santa Chiara Church. 

"Whilst other Italian cities have each ten or 
twelve prominent structures on which their claim 
to architectural fame is based, Venice numbers 
her specimens by hundreds, and the residence of 
the simple citizen is often as artistic as the palace 
of the proudest noble. No other city possesses 
such a school of architectural art as applied to 
domestic purposes; and if we look for types from 
which to originate a style suitable to our modern 
wants, it is among the Venetian examples of the 
early part of the sixteenth century."— (Ferawwon.) 
The churches are profusely ornamented with 
marble, porphyry, alabaster, agate, jasper, mosaics, 
&c., more remarkable for richness than good taste. 

"Canalctto and Stanficld are miraculous in 
their truth ; Turner is very noble ; but the reality 
itself is bcyonrl all description of pen or penciL 
I never saw the thing before that I should be 
afraid to describe; but to tell what Venice is I 
feel to bo an impossibility." — Dickens^ 1844. 

The canals are " water streets " without foot- 
way s on the sides. " You may (says Lord Brough- 
ton) from the back of most houses, and sometimes 
from the front, step from the hall door into your 
boat at once, and may row through the city almost 
the whole day without suspecting there are any 
streets in it; or "Y<i\i. tajK^ ^«xAsr. 'Cocs.^-^'^NsNKSi.-^ 



ondoB. irilhout Miinlna t 



KlldLDir, >in<t nwulc ci 



e to clrcunulniicci. mid iiiar be varied ill 
. Tho chanta for a g<nid»U l» Hlwut 4>, 



It Infarmoauted by & hoop of 



-eliicdanrlMlior 

ulorlali! °ln £ct, oil timi 1> nu[ x»lil, •> 



FIEBT TOWS. 
■PUlM B. Kftreo. ThLi piazza, or 
•nrrounacd by inngiilBetnt Mlflee^ Rtl t 
lilitorlcil monunicnli of the rlw and p 

day. Ui tliB ontt aids are St. Uark'i ( 
with Lti cfUDldD 1L« and tht«e pciteatalH fbr 

Veccblc and the Orolo^ Toner. Thfi 



Ionic by an avenge biciullb of VM fnX. TIhi 
Pluitclta <or mile tqturo), Sm tvet hv ISO Icct, 

watu ^t. bctwom tho I>agc'ii Palace «i Ibc cuft 

quay. aretlHjColoDncui-twip'illinof «. Hnrk 

the Polite dellaFaella to ibe Hlva dtdSchUvunl 
and the AlberpJ Rcale {fonnerly the UanbnocenI|i> 

ivuiite pcdeatals (by tjeopardl, of tlie alxteentb 

Eta tnncobiurfl — tlie three ilandardg 4^ttieiml>Jeet 
klngdomiof Cypra% Candla, nod UorEn Diwd la riy. 
The Torre dell' Orologdo, w cloeb-tower. at Ihe 

birdo. 11 beara aii aatruiioirlcnl clock, marked 



the Lion ol Bi 
IDupd In I lie Plazia. 

The plelnnsque Cfttliadlkl or 'Damo at S. 
Mareo, iB areek In ihapu. and pnwly Byiantlne (or 

liyanlitarnHiithalclty,andaTilFheilll.]|. Itlanijh 
poMd to Iiavc been eopleil (rani a ebuteh at Alei- 

wara fliiliihol In Ihe next cnitnry. It l> only W3 

lect Ions by ie4 (ect through Ilia Iranaepli. It li 

Mxnairie wlien compared with laler and mora tt- 

ru/MTBrntieniM, bat U It rxcetillL, 

""•^ i^e lunariut pr^wloB et Ih 






It tiro (lo the rlsht) 
sTG fan broniiiit). 1^ 



atlerS.mcGl! i 

The funr moaalei la the uppw vaulla are the 
Descent from the Orun, the ueacent Into Llmln 
{orhclD.llwIlcBDrrectlon.andlhaAKcnahini all 
by U t^aelauo, from dcalgna by H. Veniia. abnit 
leli. Ononeof the four bnniia galea «o tlio left 
on entering) la iIh name of their artltt. "M.CCC. 
Bcttueliu, Auritex. Venelna. nia fedii " he beiuc 
a Veuetl.in gold worker of the day. Jntblafo^da 
arc the funiMit fonr Hana ^ BI. Hart (neliMibitr 
only l,SMIba.).bj L^p|HU<?), bronzes but pre. 
lernlng tracei of their tonner gliding. They aro 

fettcd to Athena, were >ent to omamoit the tri- 
Duiphal aieheioll! era and Trojan, at Bone. Thej- 
Bccuinpanled Theoduiliu to ByiantlDm, and In tb« 
IblrtceDlh ccntuir wen trannotted to Venleei 
from whleh they were nured to Parla, by N apoteoti^ 
to Hie tu|> of thB An dn Carmuel, Is be aniln 
relnniodin ISiStnlhelroldplacBat Venice. Tlila 
la alludod to In th* gold tnaerlptloti on the ehnrcli 

Weatmlnaler, poaiearion hna lieon taken of them at 
tailoui llmea, a* an cniMem of power or cunqnciil. 



iiid left, aliove the jirliiclnnl entrance, are tlie Re- 
lurrectton of Laiann, and the Burial of the Virgin, 

ilao by llio Zoccatl. m the lower aide eoincra, 
ibe Four KvangeliMij lii the uppers eight Fropluitij 



n the OBtalde of tho 



XS 



Route 19.] 



VENICE — ST. HA.RK. 



T3 



hxg, and on enquiry found they had been burning' 
there about 200 years, in memory of a poor man 
who had been put to death for a murder, though lie 
died protesthig his innocence. After his execu- 
tion, another man on his dcath-be(i confessing that 
he liad committed the deed and thiit the person 
unjustly put to death had been entirely ignorant 
of it, the Senate ordered these lamps to be Icept 
burning as a sign of the innocence of the iKwr man, 
and in expiation for Ids unmerited death." — Miss 
Catlow's Sketching Rambles. 

To the right of the vestibule, in the Zeno Chapel, 
is an altar by the Loml>ardi, oniamcnted with a 
profusion of bronzes and marbles. Four large 
columns may be noticed of the greatest delicacy, 
a-id three bronzes of the Virgin and Child. St. John 
the Baptist, and St. Peter. In the middle are the 
bronze effigies of Cardinal G. B. Zeno. 

A little further inside the principal door is one 
of the most ancient mosaics in the church, Christ 
between the Virgin and St. Mark, supposed to be 
as old as tlic elevcntli century. 

The great Arch of the Nave is encrnsted with gold 
and marble mosaics in five divisions; tlie subjects 
taken from the Apocalypse. In the middle is Christ 
surrounded by seven candlesticks, by F. Zuccato, 
1570. The vault of the vestibule, whfch is in a 
line with this arch, and is prolonged to the exterior 
facade, is equally full of mosaics, in five compart- 
ments. In this part is a porphyry holy-water 
basin, the base of which is a Grecian altar, carved 
with dolphins and tridents, surmounted by another 
l)as-rclief, of children; the latter a work of the 
fifteenth century. 

To the right of this is the Baptixterjt, ornamented 
with marbles, bas-reliefs, and other carvings, and 
with mosaics, executed for the most part about 
1350. A mosaic of the Baptism of Christ, which 
covers the wall opposite to the door opening to the 
Piazzetta, is said to be as old as the tenth or twelfth 
century. At the altar are a marble Virgin and 
two Angels; a marble chair, believed to have been 
carved at Alexandria; a bas-relief of the Baptism 
of Christ ; and two bas-reliefs of St. Theodore and 
St George. In the middle of the chapel is a large 
marble ba.sin, with a bronze cover, onmmentcd 
with bas-reliefs, by two pupils of Sansovino, both 
of the sixteenth century ; and a bronze statue of 
St. John the Baptist. On the walls are monuments 
of Doge Sarauzo, and of Doge Enrico Dandolo, a 
successful leader in war against the Turks, and 
the writer of an excellent Chronicle of Venice, or 
History of the Republic, down to 1342. 

In the right transept of the church is the Oratory 
of the Cross, formed by six rich columns, one of 
which is of rare black and white porphyry. On 
the wall to the left are delicate marbles, and a 
mosaic of Paradise, attributed to L. Qaetano, from 
designs by Pillotti. 

In the Left Aisle (entering from tho great door) 
is the Chapel of the Madonna do Mascoli, with a' 
beautifnll^ iciilpti|red in^rbl^ oltar, of \\\t thir- 



teenth or fourteenth century, and some excellent 
mosaics of tlje History of the Virgin, by M. Ciom- 
bono. 

The Chapel of S. Isidore is covered with mosaics 
of the fourteenth century, representing the life of 
this saint. On the wall above the door is tho 
genealogical tree of the Virgin, by N. Bianchlnl, 
from SalvlatTs designs, 1542. On the -marble 
screen which separates It from the choir are four- 
teen marble statues of the Virgin and Apostles, 
carved In 1394 by the brothers J. and P. Massegna, 
of Venice. At the sides of the entrance to the 
choir are two rich marble seats, supported by 
costly pillars, and near them two small marble 
altars of delicate carving, said to be by P. Lom- 
bardo, 1470. 

In the Choir itself are many seats ornamented 
with rich Inlaid work, 1536; and two desks, with 
six bronze bai-reliefs of the life of St. Mark, by 
J. Simsovlno. On the interior balustrades, near 
the high altar, are eight bronze figures — the Four 
Evangelists, by Sansovino; and Four Doctors, 
supposed to be by J. Calllari, or P. da Udine, liil4. 

The High Altar stands under a baldacchino, or 
canopy, on four pillars of Greek marble, carved 
with various subjects of sacred history. This altar 
is remarkable for its two ancient paintings, one 
serving as a covering to the other. The first is in 
the Greek style, in oil, on wood, in fourteen divi- 
sions, relating to the Life of Christ, by Maestro 
Paolo, and his sons, Lucca and Giovanni, 1346, 
whose names are Inscribed on it He is the oldest 
of the Venetian school of painters; the next to him 
being Lorenzo of Venice, whose work is to be seen 
at the Accademia. The second altar piece, called 
the Pala d' Oro, Is a Byzantine enamel on gold 
and silver plating, set off by chased work, pearls, 
cameos, and other precious stones. This is only 
shown between 12 and 2; ticket 25 cents. Behind 
the high altar Is another altar, on clear spiral 
alabaster pillars ; with bas-reliefs, In marble and 
gilt bronze; all by Sansovino. 

The bas-reliefs in white marble, and on tho 
bronze gate of the sacristy, are by Sansovino. 
They took him al)out twenty years to execute. 
Among the heads are those of Titian. P Aretlno, 
and Sansovino himself. The sacristy is richly 
adorned with mosaics and inlaid work, by Zuccato, 
Schiavonc, &c., between 1520 and 1630. 

In a disused chapel, opposite Madonna de Mas- 
coli, is the Treasury of St. Mark, containing an 
assortment of the most esteemed relics; among 
them are pieces of tlie "true" cross, with a nail, 
the sponge, and the reed used at the Crucifixion; 
the knife which cut the bread at the Lord's Supper; 
the thlgh-l)one of St. John the Baptist; and innu- 
merable relics of the patron saint ; besides various 
trophies brought home from the taking of Constan- 
tinople. All the Doges were burled in St. Mark's 
before Marino Falicro's treason ; but he and Ids 
8Ucces.sor8 were buried in their own churches. Tha 
Crypt is 81 feet by 01 fe<it. ^ 



7^ 



BAADSIIAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



combination is neither Greek norOotlilc, nor Basi- 
lical, nor Saracen ; but a fortuitous jumble of all. 
A front divided by a g^allcry and a roof h(X)dcd by 
mosquish cupolas give it a strange, uncliristian 
look. Nowhere liave I seen so many columns 
crowded into so small a space. Neiir 300 arc 
stuck on the pillars of the front, and 300 more on 
the balustrades above A like profusion prevails 
in the interior, which is dark, heavy, and bar- 
barous." — (Forxt/th). But, notwithstanding this, 
the general offect is striking and historical. 

From the Pietra del Bando, a red stone close to 
the church, the laws were first promulgutcd. It is 
a trophy from Acre; another trophy, called the 
pillars of S. John of Acre, was brought from 
Ptolemais in \2r>G. 

The ancient Crypts have been cleared of water, 
and are n >w accessible. 

The best book of information Is " Ouide de la 
Basilique St. Afarc,'' by Monsign. C. A. Pasini. 

At the junction of the Piazza di S. Marco and 
the Piazzctta stands the brick 

*Cainpanile Totcet', so conspicuous in all Vene- 
tian views, forming a detached belfry to the Cathe- 
dral, 320 feet high. It was begtln in 902; in 1178 
a spire on an antique model was added, in the 
shape of an extinguisher, which was reconstructed 
by Martin B. Buono in 1510, as it now appears, 
and oniamentod with Oriental piarbles. At the 
base on one side is a loggetta by Soverini, a small 
and elegant building covered with marbles, sculp- 
• tnres, and bronzes. Four bronze statues of Pallas, 
Apollo, Mercury, and Peace, are by J. Sansovino. 
Of the bas-reliefs, the best are the three in the 
attic and those below two of the statues. 

"Its locality and associations have earned for 
it a great deal of inflated laudation ; but in point 
of design no campanile in Italy deserves it less. 
The base (42 feet square) is a mere anomamented 
mass of brickworlc, slightly fluted and pierced 
unsymmetrically with small windows to light the 
inclined planes within. Its size, its height, and 
apparent solidity are its only merits;" — (Fergusson). 
Cost of admission, 15c. The ascent is by a series 
of inclines — not steps. Napoleon rode his horse to 
the summit; whence there is a view over the city 
and islands, distant hills, &c. But this prospect 
from the top, though good, gives no adequate view 
of the canals within the citj-. 

* Ducal Palace, or Paiazzo DtMcale, the old seat 
of the Doge (doge from dux), is open from nine to 
four. (For Doges, see Introduction.) It is about 
240 feet square. The principal part has one side 
towards the Mole and the other towards the 
Piazzctta, and is remarkable for its singularity, 
the solidity and magnificence of its details, aiid 
for its style, which is Saracenic, of the fourteenth 
century in the oldest portion, which Is the work of 
Calcndario. An arcade, called the Broglio, sur- 
rounds it. It was formerly the seat of government, 
and contains the halls of the various departments — 
asr the HiiW of the Senate, the Hall of the Council 
or Teft OtofT tlw picture ffallcry), the Hall of the 
tyyo^f Cn„„r/l otow the library), fhp P/onjbf or 



State Prison, the Pozzi, or dungeons, Ac. 

Near the sea front, at the end of the Piazzetta, 
are two red granite pillars, brought from Greece in 
the twelfth century. One bears the famous 
winged Lion in bronze, called the^on of St. Mm% 
a copy of which was repeated in every subject 
l)rovince (hence the word I'antaloon, a nickname for 
the Venetians); and the other has a statue of St. 
Theodore (Teodoro) standing on a crocodile. This 
part and the quay adjoining are sometimes called 
"II Colonne," after these pillars, which thus serve 
as a mark. Public executions took place-between 
them, and hence it was considered unlucky to pass 
this way. Here Silvio Pellico stood before he was 
sent to Spielberg. 

•'The two arcades which constitute the base arc, 
from their extent and the beauty of the details, 
as fine as anything of their class executed during 
the middle ages. There is also a just and pleasing 
proportion between the simple solidity of the 
lower, and the airy, perhaps slightly fantastic 
lightness of the upper of these arcades, which ard 
pierced with light fretwork. Had the upper storey 
been set back according to the original design, 
instead of being brought foi-ward even with the 
arcades, which it o vei-powers by its ill-proportioned 
mass, a much more beautiful building would have 
resulted. 'All the beauty ascribed to this storey 
arises from the polychromatic mode of decoration 
introduced by disposing pieces of different coloured 
marbles in diaper patterns. The slabs are built 
into, not stuck on." — FergttMon. 

The palace forms a quadrangle surrounding an 
Ulterior court, the north side of which stands 
alongside St. Mark's, which until 1807 was nothing 
but the chapel of the palace. The east side, which 
rests on the Rio or Canal della Paglia. was the work 
of A. Rizzio and A. Scarpagnhio, 1490-1560. The 
other two sides towards the Mole and Piazzctta 
were restored by A. da Pont«, after the fire of 1577. 
They are marked by two large windows decorated 
with sculptures; that on the Mole side, constructed 
1404; that on the side of the Piazzctta at a later 
date, 1523-38. The carvings above them date from 
1577. The walls are diamonded in pale red and 
white. The palace entrance is near the church, by 
the Porta dcUa Carta, where the scribes used to 
stand, and the ornaments of which are due to 
Giovanni and Bartolommeo Buon. This leads to 
the interior court and the Giant's Stairs. Its 
principal defect is that "it reverses all the princi- 
ples of all other architecture. Here the solid rests 
on the open, a wall of enormous thickness rests on 
a slender fretwork of shafts and arches and 
intersected circles." — Forsyth 

The beautiful internal court was rebuilt 1486- 
1650, by A. Brcgno and Scarpagnino. Its pointed 
and circular arcades, partly imitated in the School 
of Mines, Piccadilly, its richly sculptured friezes 
and ornamented wall spaces, altogether make up 
a singularly pleasing design. In the middle of the 
9ourt are two circular bronze reservoirs, covered 
with reliefs, both of the sixteenth century. They 
jire filled da\)y w\th fresh water brought by tbp 



Route 19.] 



VENICE — T)OOE S PALACE. 



75r 



women of Friuli. It is sarrouhded by busts of 
eminent natives of Venice. In the facade i» the 
clock tower, built 1607-15, and ornamented with 
eight beautiful Greek statacs. 

The Arcade, opposite the Giant's Staircase, is 
probably due to Master Bartolommeo. the author 
of the Delia Carta Gate. A smaller and cle^^ant 
fa9adc to the left of the Giant's Stairs, in the 
Senators' Court, is attributed to G. IJcrgamasco 
and J. Lombardo. 

The Giant's Stairs (Scala dci Gis-anti) is a majmi- 
ficent work of the fifteenth century, by A. Bre;nio 
or A. Pi2zo; with delicate marble carvinjrs by two 
Mantua artists, and Sansovino's t wo colossal statues 
of Mars and Neptune, which gave name to the 
staircase. Below, them, at the foot of the staircase, 
are A. Uizzio's Adam and Eve. The Doge was 
crowned on the landing of those steps; here he 
took the oaths; and here Byron makes Marino 
Faliero deliver his piece of eloquent rant before 
his execution, 1855. 

"The gory bead rolls down the Giant's Steps." 
His corpse was removed in a barge, with eight 
torches, to his tomb in the little Chapel of Santa 
Maria della Pace, in the Church of SS. (jiovanni 
c Paolo; tut this was placed outside the church 
about the time of the French invasion. On the same 
landing the captain of the Bucentaur moimted 
guard during an interregnum. In the "Two 
Foscarl" Byron makes the old deposed Doge die 
suddenly after descending the steps, upon hearing 
the bell of St. Mark ring for his successor; though 
it really took place five days after. 

The Golden Stairs (Scala d'Oro), constructed 
1556-77, is a fine work by Sansovino. It led to the 
room in which the Libro d'Oro, or Golden Book of 
the Venetian nobility, was kept, in charge of the 
Avrogadori. In the vestibule is Tintoretto's Justice 
with the Sword and Scales. The Hercules and 
Atlas at the bottom are by Aspetti. 

Sala del Gran ConsigUOy or Hall of the Great 
Council, a splendid room, looking into the Piaz- 
zetta, 175 feet by 82, originally built by Calon- 
dario, and restored after the fire of 1577. which 
destroyed the paintings of Titian and Bellini, by 
which it was decorated. Every square foot of its 
surface, both walls and coiling, is covered with 
paintings, gilding, and other ornaments by late 
artists; the paintings relating fo events in the 
history of the Kcpnblic. and being remarkable as 
including some of the oldest existing works on can- 
vas. Portraits of Doges run round the frieze, and 
are continued in the Sala dello Scrutinio adjoining. 
Both rooms are filled with the books of St. Mark's 
Library. To the right, on entering, is Tintoretto's 
vast picture of the Glories of Paradise, 82 feet 
long by 33 high, full of figures, the largest oi\ 
painting in Italy. Then come the following pic- 
tures, to the number of twenty-one: — Q.Leclerc— 
Alliance Ratified between Doge Dandolo and the 
Cnisadera. in St. Mark's. 1201. A. Vicentluo— 



D. Tintoretto— Surrender of Zara (above the win 
dow). A. Vicentluo -Alexis invoking the protec 
tion of Venice for his Father, the Emperor 



of 

Taking 

D. Tin- 

of Constantinople, 1204. 

of Baldwin as King of 

Sophia's. L'Alicnsc— Dandolo 

P.Veronesc— Doge Contarinl's 



the 
Constantinople. Palma G iovane — First 
of Constatitinoplc, 1203, under Dandolo. 
toretto — Second Taking 
A. Vicentluo — Election 
Jerusalem, in S. 
crowning liuldwin 



Return after the Defeat of the Genoese, at 
Chiog'xia, 1378, when Venice was saved from ruin ^ 
(between the windows). G. del Moro— The Pope 
presenting the Banners to the Doge, at St. Peter's. 
G. Gambarato— Arrival of the Pope, the Emperor 
Frederick Bt«barossa, and Doge, at Ancona (al)Ove 
the door^. F. Zuccaro— Frederick kneeling to Pope 
Innocent, 1177. Palma G.— Tlie Pope releasing 
Otho, the Emperor's Son. A. Vicentlno— Doge 
presenting Otho to Pope Alexander III. (above 
the door of the Scrutinio). D. Tintoretto— Otho 
taken prisoner by the Vonetians, at a pretended 
naval battle, ofi" Istria. P. Flsunmengo— Pope bles- 
sing the Doge (above the window). F. Bassano — 
Pope presents a sword to the Doge. Tintoretto- 
Venetian Ambassador and the Emperor, at Pavia; 
L. Bassano— Pope presenting the Doge with a 
lighted candle (above the window); the Pope and 
Doge sending nn Embas?y to the Emperor; Alex- 
ander III., in disguise, recognised by the Doge, 
at La Cairita. 

In the balcony of the window i3 a St. George, one 
of the ear lit'St works of Canova. Round the frieze 
arc seventv-six portraits of Doges, beginning with 
the ninth, 'Obelerio Antenorio, in 604, with the 
omission of Marino Faliero, whose place in the 
black oval is painted over with "Hie est locus 
Marinl Falieri, dccapitati pro criminibus." They 
are by Tintoretto, Bassano, the Palmas, &c. 

In the richly ornamented ceiling aie three large 
fine pictures: P. Veronese— Venice crowned by 
Glory. Tintoretto— Venice among the Divinities 
Pahna Vecchio— Venice crowned by Victory. 

Among the smaller ones are : P. Veronese— Taking 
of Smyrna; Deence of Scutari against Sultan Ma- 
homm'ed. F. Bns-ano— Battle with the Duke of 
Milan, 1446; l-ofeat of Hercules of Ferrara, Tinto- 
retto— Victory on the Lukcdi Garcia, 1440; Defeat 
of the Prince of Este. Tintoretto— Brescia de- 
fended against the Visconlls, 1483; Victory over 
the Aragonese. F. Bassano — Victories over the 
Duke of Milan, and over the Imperialists, 1507 
Palma (i iovane— Battle at Cremona, 1427; Recap 
[ ture of Padua. 1509. 

I Sala dello Scrutinio, where the voting at the 

election of the Doge took place, is joined to the 

I Great Sala by a corridor, the portraits being con- 

i tinned so as to make up the 115, including Manin, 

I the last Doge. There are also Eight Prophets, by 

' A. Vicentitlo. It is now used as a library for MSS. 

and printed books. The pictures are — l>eginning 

on the right:— Tintoretto's Tatw^*:^^ '^'*^^^ ^^^'iS^. 

the vr\tvd«v> . K. ^\cwjevwv5 * "^^^^ ?>_^C^ 



^VsMialt of j^a, 1203, hy blind old Doge Dandolo, \ \\a\\\e o\ \av^wVcx, V • XS^^^^VSN-^ xvv^^K«^^ .. 



MBrnrliiina, In Atlmnli. P. Liberl'i Vletarj- ol 
UarilinollDK. Ills. A. Vlcontlno'i Ptyln hnirpiniT 
the RIalio. sm \ ■nd(PrDlcMiclcd) l>cle>t uf Pcplii at 
tlw Orfniiu C'liinl. e. Penmla'i llttmt of <ha 
Caliph grKllTpl. L'Aliniw'm C^irinra of Tyre. U. 
VhuIHd-s il^iim-K neplMW) VleK.ry over Aug"' of 
SieUr- PaliiM Cllotaiw'n LaM Jodipnent,— wMh 
tkTMnwtraltiotMiin'Ila. In Meana, Pnnntory. 
nil Hall. A rainteil tdnmcbal Arch, In honour 
nt tht llob'a UonmlnL fur bli coBoicit of the 
Pehi|nnBt>uii, MM Ot Alia one iUa at Iho rgsm). 
In tbe crlllnK emnpartuHiiKi »r«:—V. llaaunoa 
TaUarot Padu, HM. a. dal Moro'i Taklnir of 
JaBa,lftS. r. Balllnl'aVlctiirvoTerlht Onmoo 
at Trnpanl. P. ll«itinni>iinna'> VInorjr at Atrc. 
A. Vleentlnu'a VMnry over the PInanl. IMS; 
beildai tmlte alleitoilGBl ■al>|act> by FurdcnDnr. 

The £Ara>y. eontabird la theiie rDomi. wui 
lanoUcd <>>- Petrarch and Oirdliial nsHBilrin. the 
latter bohif (lie ehlal cnntrihDiar. Tbsy wcro si 
Antplae«llnSaDtKiTbio'i>Lil»erU.oiithcappa>[te 
lite tf tin PUneltn. before It •»■ Incanwattil 
with the Raral PiUaee. IVt Dtmiber aiioDt 
1M,0W nlumm rail lO.tH UK)., amone which 
are Cleero-a K|il*t. ail Faailllarlei-lho dm bouk 
prtnted at Venice, Hd.'i a Flurenca Homer, on 
nllnm. IIS^: Hareo Folo'i Tealament. Mt>: an 
HtrlMl, iialnled by A. Amiullo. UW; {^anllaal 
anmunl't Breviary, with HemlliiR't beaallfHl 
mliilalana. Ice. At V*nke. C. ViiUiirfi^r liroiiKbt 
ontthe DceaineRm. UT1. now at AHkorpa: nnd 
AldiM Uaiiutlun. Iiegaii the Aldlne Clarilei. I4P4. 

ArtlmoliijiitaltliiKiial.—'Tlilii collRtloli of liniti^ 

sparunenta of the ihigeH, under tbe nninei uf 
Cameni dotll Scarlatti, or Knlilns Kaam of the 
OrtalConndli Salailello ttcudo. wbcretheihteld 
of the rclirblnir Doatyrtii placed. now contulnlnf 
Pn Haoro-i cnrtona old Man of tho World, con- 
Mruted I4««. and « vnrv valuMe Canieo ot 



been destroyed by the i 
%la dtUa Bumila. v 






i. OoBtartHl'a Ecci 



I4WI Tltlan'i Hon ( 



t by TlntotTtto, Mid th 

taeGDe>liy A-VlttDTln. 
Bala drf PngaOi, or dil SeiuM, » called becaaK 
.1 am. the (itteucltiienii were prayed loaHlMth 
)oi[e with their advice. Here arc, Palnia Glovan 
-the Dogea, L, and O. I'riull, Prs^lnir In lb 



-I>oireBn 
at Volcan. 



ncUlnr*. A.VlHRtl 



latin" 1 



H. VKclliii'a PreacntatluB • 
Tlnrini Allnin'ieoliniluhHi 
Rccaptua t' 



painted colUnc by 



eWaneL—Bonlf ocln'* Chritt Driving onl Ihs 
Honey ChanEcri>! Rliill (^artooni for moaalo In 
Bl. Marfe'n! Hvg lalnln by Tlnloretln, ffope'j PH- 
ratt Ctoiwi— Alur, by acanioiil; the Vlririn, by 
SannoTlnoi and a unique fre«o by Titian (In n 
Malrcaie adHnlns). 

gala iit AnU-CoVrfflo, where torcl^ AmhanM- 
don waited an undlenea. The nuntel-plece and 
door* by Hcanioiili ihe itatne) liy A. Viituria. 
Here are four Mno piilntlafa by TIntorello— 
Ariadne and Bicchua: Pallai Chailnr Hua; 
Forge of Vulcan ; Merenry and the GracH. 



'■ I'lvmnua-nAogvl drit 



Thitomiu'l Itofa t 



to th* Madonna, 



T£K10£— CHDBCHIiH, I 
Virgin In Olory, ai 



Chrtit in aioiy 






and .«vcni1 r*r« |w<iitln«<, l.y 0. *nd 


.IMS. ThoehDlrcon 


aim four altan 


rtlc. Al Ihe IWrd In a 




icHlon, bv Q. BtHlnl, 
hand. AblrtbofJuli 




n the BapIM i. 


f,'nr"a'h™''NSr^S 


Pfllp.0, »b<» 


Saorlity !■ tbe 




xmd bun by 







lbs old lllmrv, or 

•la, where Ihe books were kept 



7d 



BllAD8UAW*» ITALY. 



f Section 1. 



then by two brltlj^cs at the end to the Quay 
de' Orcci, where Ktaiida the 

St. Giorgio d«' (freei, the Greek Church. It is an 
imposing pile, with a rather heavy facade, by 
Sansovino, 1560, adorned with nlosaiCH inside and 
out. Go baclc to the lir«t bridge, turn to the right 
along the quay, then by the la«t bridge to the 
riglit you come to 

8. Lorenzo, or 8t. Lawrence, l>ullt by Horclla. 
The richly-adorned higlj aliar in supported by aix 
pillars of Porto Venere marble, the work of Cani- 
pagna. The Conunenda di Malta in opposite it. 
Go back to the Ponte de' Orecl, and follow the 
street before you, to Ponte 8. Antonino; at the 
end of which is 

S. Antonino, liaving a chapel on the left side, 
with paintings by Palma. Follow the quay close 
at hand till you come to the Convent of 

S. Giorgio tUgli Schintoni (of the Hclavoniann). 
The front was bnilt IS&O. It has fine paintings 
by CanMt<-eio. Take the street or strada of the 
Farlani, tuni to the right and continue over the 
bridge to 

*8. Francesco della Vigna, near the Caserma, or 
barracks, a large and handsome church, by Sanso- 
vino, 153*, with a fnmt by Palladio. It has two 
wings in its front, like 8. Giorgio Maggiore, It 
numbers seventeen chapels and altars. 8econd 
Chapel — The Resurrection, by P. Veronese. In the 
Cappella Santa is a Virgin and Child, by O. Bellini. 
IntheGreat Chajiol are two fine marble monuments 
of the same shape (supposed to be by Scamozzi) 
to T. Gritti and to Doge A. Grittl. his nephew. 
The Giustiniani Chapel, in the right aisle, is 
covered with good marble scnlptures. Above the 
pulpit in the Cloisters Chapel are the Father and 
Hon, by G. Santa Cn)cc. In a chapel on the left 
is P. Veronese's Madonna 'and Saints. 

S. Pietro di Ca»te!lo, or St. Peter, near the Public 
Garden", on the Iwda di S. Pietro, at the oast emi 
of the city, rebuilt. 1594-1621, ])y Crapiglia. It 
was the Cathedral church of the city down to 1807, 
when precedence was given to the Ducal Church 
of St. Mark. To the right on entering is a very 
ancient marble pulpit, like a chair, with an Orien- 
tal inscription, said to have been used by 8t Peter 
at Antioch. In the Grand (*hapel is a picture 
8. Lorenzo Giustiniani delivering Venice from the 
Plague, by A. Hellucci; another represents the 
same Saint distributing Alms — one of the best 
works of G.Lazarinl. Others are— P. Veronene's 
88. Peter and Paul, Padovanino's Martyrdom of 
St. John, 8. Giordano's Virgin and Angels; with a 
good mosaic, by A. Znccato, <tec. The Veiulramini 
Gliapel isby B. Longhena. The fine belfry attached 
to this church was rohnilt 1474. The scenes of 
the "Brides of Venice," were enacted here. 
Going towards the Public Gardens you pass 

S. CHiueppedi Castello, or St. Joseph. At the 

hlgrh altar is the Nativity, by P. Veronese. The 

*^MfcfJd mjiaM>)eam oi Dt^qro M. Griniani and his 

^l^SS-i? '^-'I ^aatozz/, with bronze and othor 



The PuhUf {/</r(fc»;»(Giardhill»ubbllcl)areatthe 
extreiuc east end of the city, facing the sea, on a 
sort of peninsula. There are a monument of 
Garilialdl and a fine view. Turning back by the 
Riva degli Schiavoiil, you come to the Piazza di 8. 
Biagio (8. Blaise), and the Church of the Madonna 
dell Arsenalc, which contains Toretti's tomb of the 
Grand Admiral Kmo, the last naval commahdcr of 
the Republic, who died 17'j7. To the right is the 

* Arsenal (Arsenale Reale), within a wall 
about 2 miles round, now the Steamer Dock, 
but much reduced from its former importance. In 
the fourteenth century there were as many as 
1(1,00!) workmen sometimes employed here. About 
the middle of the last century the Venetian ficet 
included forty ship)*, of which twelve were three- 
deckers, and there were 4,(K)0 pieces of ordnance 
in store. It has somewhat revived under the 
preseni government, but has to contend with the 
rival p«»rt of Trieste, <»n the opposite side of the 
Adriatii-.. The oldest part dates from i:W4. The 
principal gale is a noble work, in the Corinthian 
style, oiufour columns of Greek marble, constructed 
aDout 14H0, and adorned with statues, <S:c. At 
the sides arc four Lions, bnmght from Mount 
Hymettus, nr.-ir Athens, in 1687, by DogeMorosini. 
Written application must be made for admission. 

Within the walls are the old and new arsenals, 
or basins, the galley docks, and a large modern 
dock (Novlsttima Grande), many building slips, u 
Naval College, Marine Barracks; a rope walk on 
pillars, 100 feet long; foundries, timber yards, 
model room, and- an armoury for 12,000 stand of 
arms, containing some old arms and armour, with 
the Turkish fiag taken at Lepauto, and Canova's 
monun)ent to Admiral Emo, one of the great sculp- 
tor's earliest performances. This dockyard was 
attacked or blockaded by the Sardinian fleet in 
1848, after Venice had set up a Republic, and was 
bombarded by the Austrians. 

The famous Bucentoro, the State Galley of the 
Republic, was here laid up until the French burnt 
her, 1797. Ilornamei^ of doubtful origin. Ilershapo 
was like that of the Lord Mayor's barge, though 
larger and more costly; the size being 100 feet by 
21, with forty-two oars, and four men to each oar, 
bc:<ide the regular crew of forty men. She was 
covered with gilding and carvetl syrens, tortoises, 
mosijues. fiowers, shells, medallions, winged lions, 
birds, allegorical emblems, &c. An awning of 
crimstm velvet was stretche-d over her. In the 
course of centuries she had been so often ])lankcd 
and canlkc<l, that not a part of her original timbers 
was left. Some fragments of her are shown. 

Every Ascension Day, in memory of Doge 
Ziani's victory over Frederick Barbarossa, 1177, the 
Doge embarked at the Piazza, and proceeded to 
the Arsenal ('hapel, thence to the Chapel of Santa 
Helena (where the archblsliop blessed the water), 
and the Ltdo, at the month of the port. Here ho 
dropped a ring into the Adriatic, with the words, 
" Wo wed thee with this ring in token of true and 
p«rpeiaAl •ov«r41guiv*'' TbU«et«iBODy origiaated 



£0Ute 19.] VEXlCE— AKSESAL, ACCAOliMlA W S£tLK AETI, BtC. 



fo 



in a grant, as was said, of Pope Alexander III., in 
whose behalf the battle was fou}?ht. When Julius 
II. was at war with the Republic, and asked the 
Venetian ambassador where the terms of this grant 
were to be found, he was told to look for it on the 
back of Constantino's donation of the States of the 
Church. 

Leaving the Arsenal, turn to the right, and you 
come to 

5. JUartino, built by Sansovino in the sixteenth 
century. It contains Santa Crocc's Last Supper, 
and a beautiful marble monument to Doge F. 
Erizzo. From this church, to the left, you come to 
the Calle della Pegola (Pitch Street), then to the 
Temi (Ovens), which terminates on the Riva degli 
Schiavoni. When here turn to the right, pass the 
first bridge, and on the right, at No. 3,8^3, is 

The Palazzo Craplietln, with a collection of paint- 
ings by celebrated masters of the Venetian and 
Flemish school, as Vivairini, Bellini, Pordcnone, 
Titian, P. Veronese. Canaletto, Rubens, A. DUrer, 
Ac. Follow the quay towards St. Mark, as far as 
the fourth street on the right, Calle del l^osc, and 
by this you reach the square, or Campo, on which 
stands 

S. Qiovanni in Brdjora, or in Bragola, a building 
of the fifteenth century. At the high altar is a 
large Baptism of Christ, by Cioia da Conegliano. 
From this church go back to the Riva degli 
Schiavoni, follow the quay towards St. Mark's, and 
pass over the first bridge, beyond which is the 
Church of 

Santa Maria dellaPieta, an elegant oval building, 
containing a painting by Moretto, which is worth 
seeing, subject, Christ in the house of Simon. 

THIRD TOUR. 

*S. Giorgio Maggiore (St. George the Great), on 
an island opposite St. Mark's, at the east end 
of the Giudecca. This fine work of Palladio 
(1556-69) is in the shape of a Latin Cross, with a 
dome and Corinthian fa9ade, in which we sec his 
expedient for combining a larger and smaller 
order, viz., by placing the principal order on 
pedestals, and bringing the sul)ordinate order down 
to the floor line. In this way the disproportion 
between becomes less glaring. The door is flankccl 
by two pillars, on each side, of fine-veined Greek 
marble, and the Four Evangelists by A. Vittoria. 
Above the door is the monument of Doge L. Dona. 
Tffthe right, on entering, one to the general and 
procurator, L. Vcnier. At the first altar, the 
Nativity, by J. Bassano. The high altar is com- 
posed of marbles and bronzes, by G. Campagna. 
In the choir are forty-eight beautiful carved stalls, 
referring to the life of St. Bernard, by Albert de 
Bmle, a Flemish artist Six of Tintoretto's pic- 
tares are here, including the Supper, the Resnr 
rcction, &c. Among the tombs is that of Doge D. 
Michieli, the crusader and "Terror Grajcorum," 
as ho is called, from his exploits in the Archipelago, 
and at the capture of Tyre. A fine view of Venice 
and the lagune may be obtained from the Cam- 
patUlei aibcessiblc from tho Interior. 



DogaXiadiMaXd (Custom House),at the castend 
of tho Grand Canal, Avas built 1682, by G. Beimoni, 
in the rustic style. Its tower has a globe carricti 
by two Atlases, on which stands a Fortune of gilt 
copper. It is near 500 feet in circuit, and contains 
200 rooms and offices. 

*Santa Maria della Salute, i.e., Madonna of 
Health, near the Dogana, on the Grand Canal, built 
by Longhena, a follower of Palladio, in 1631-82. 
It was founded after the gi-eat plague, and is 
eight-sided, with two cupolas and two slender cam - 
panilcs. The great Dome, 65 feet diameter, is 
surrounded by eight chapels, one of which, in the 
rear, carries the second dome, 42 feet diameter, 
flanked by two half-domes, and having a square 
chapel behind. It contains as many as 125 statues, 
some of which surromid the richly-adorned high 
altar. A candelabra in bronze, 7i feet long, is by 
A. A. Bresciano ; six others, also of bronze, are at 
the communion table. On the ceiling of the choir 
arc J. Siilviati's three large pictures of Elijah, 
Hnbakkuk. and the Manna. On that of the sacristy 
are the Death of Abel, and in other parts are 
the Descent of the Holy Ghost, and the Four 
Doctors, both fine works by Titian, in his best style. 
Another most excellent performance is Tin- 
toretto's Marriage of Cana. There are also the 
Birth of Christ, the Presentation, and the Assump- 
tion of the Virgin, by Ij. Giordano, and Samson, by 
P. Vecchio, with Padovanino's Madonna della 
Salute, at the altar. The little sacristy contains 
portraits of Doge F. Dandolo and his wife. The 
large convent attached to this church i»now tho 

Seminario Patriarcale. Here are the Manfredinl 
pictures, with some old inscriptions. In the oratory 
is Vittoria s bust of .J. Sansovino, the architect, 
wlio is buried here. 

*Accad6mia di Belle Arti, on tiie Grand 

Canal, was built by Palladio, 1561, for the Convent 
of La Caritk, partly burnt about 1650, and lately 
altered by Lazzini,"for its present purpose. Notice 
the Cortile (or Court), by Palladio. It is close to 
the new inm bridge over the canal, built, 1854, at 
the St. Vital e Ferry. It contains a numerous col- 
lection of the best works of the most celebrated 
painters, chiefly of the Venetian school, besides 
drawings, models of sculpture, «fec. The Academy 
was instituted by Napole<m, in 1807. The present 
Phiacoteca, as arranged by Count Cicognara, fills 
twenty-three rooms, many of which are elegantly 
carved and gilt. Opeii 10 to 3 every day, 
admission, 1 lira; Sundays and holidays free. 

In the Sala delV Assunta is Titian's celebrated 
*Assumption of the Virgin, considered to be his 
best work, and painted at the age of 30; it is 
about 12 feet wide and 22 high. It was found hi 
the Frari Church, neglected and covei-ed with dust. 
" But if I am to speak of Titian, I must do so in a 
more reverent mood. Till now I never knew that 
he was the felicitous artist I have this day seen 
him to be. That he thoroughlY e\\V»^<Mi.\s&5s. Ss^ "^sx 
Us beauty wm\ IxxVtv^*^ ^'^^^'«5^^'^^>^'*=^^^x^^ 



80 



BtlADSHAW's ITALY. 



[Sectiou 1. 



As well as the joys of henven. His glorious En- 
tombment, nnd niso the Assumption fully evince 
this. How Mary floats on the cloud, while a 
waving movement seems to pervade the entire pic- 
ture. How you see at a glance her very breathing, 
her awe and* piety, and, in short, a thousand feel- 
ings. All words seem poor and commonplace in 
comparison. The three angels too, on the right of 
the picture, arc of the highest order of beauty — 
tine serene loveliness, so unconscious, so bright, 
and so seraphic." — (Mendelssohn.) Tintoretto- 
Miracle of St. Mark delivering a Slave (opposite 
Titian's), another equally fine work of the Vene- 
tian school ; from the Scuola of St. Mark. Others 
by Titian— Lowering of the Cross, his last work 
(when 98 years old), finished by Palma Giovane; 
Visltati<m,*an early work. Tintoretto — the For- 
1)idden Fruit; Madonna and Senators; Christ 
and Senators; a Doge; Madonna, St. Mark, St. 
John, and a Doge; Death of Abel. Bonifacio — 
Pictures of Saints; St. Anthony and St. Mark ; St. 
James and St. Dominic; St. Francis and Qt. Paul; 
Woman in Adultery ; Judgment of Solomon ; Ado- 
ration of the Magi. A.Vicentino — Pictureof Saints. 
M.Basaiti— CallingofZebedee'sSons. Giorgionc — 
St. Mark and the Tempest. G. Bellini— Madonna 
and Saints. Palma Giovane —Vision of the Apo- 
calypse; the White Horse ; St. Francis; Assump- 
tion, a fine picture. Contarini — a Doge. P. 
Veronese — Ezekicl and Isaiah, two cameos ; Virgin 
in Glory and St. Dominic; S. Cristina beaten with 
rods; the People of Mira and St. Nicholas (in the 
ceiling). Padovanino-Marriageof Cana; Madonna 
and Saints. V. Catena— A Flagellation. C. Cag- 
liari— Christ bearing his Cross. B. Cagliari— 
liord's Supper. B. Marconi— Christ, St Peter, 
and St. John. D. Campagnola — Four Prophets (in 
the ceiling). Cima da Conegliano — Virgin En- 
throned. Carpaccio — a Presentation. 

Sa^a delle Antiche Pitture. — Works of the early 
Venetian school, chiefly saints, by B. and A. Viva- 
rini, M. Basalti, G. and A. Murano, Catena, &c. 

Vestibule to the Corridor.— StatVL&ry and busts. 

Pinacoteca and Qabinetto Contarini^ bequeathed 
by Count Contarini in 1843.— Upwards of 200 pic- 
lures, by Palma Vecchio, P. Giovane, Padovanino, 
Bassano, Bellini, Cima da Conegliano, <fcc.; with 
wood carvings in the corridor looking into the 
court. 

Corridors to the Scila J\rtfow.— Heads, &c., by 
Titian, Tintoretto, G. Bellini, &c. 

Prima S'lla iVi/orcr.— Titian's Presentation in the 
Temple; P. Pordonone's 8. Lorenzo Giustiniani 
and Saints; P. Bordone's Fisherman presenting 
the ring of St. Mark to the Doge ; with other works 
1)y masters mentioned in the Assumption Room. 
Ceiling by Tiepolo. 

Seeonda Sola Nuova. — G. Bellini's Recovery of 

the Cross. Procession in St. Mark's Piazza, full 

^/jfortrnSifK and costumes ; M. da Udlne's Annun- 

c/at/a/if C/trpacc/o's Dream of fi.OrrnitL and others 

TLlif/^^'j^ ^"^ ^'^'' M^tory: P. Veronese's Christ in 

*^«r/ s /lotisc ~a /ar^'c picture. 



Sola PaJloiUana, five rooms named after Palladio, 
full of pictures ; Titian's St. John in the Desert. 
Next to this, the Loggia Palladiana^ containing 
many Dutch masters. 

In the Sola dei Discgni (Drawings) are some 
drawings by old masters, and an urn inscribed 
"Dexter raaeni Canovaj," containing the sculptor's 
working hand. 

The SculptureGallery includes a large collection 
of models and casts of the most famous statues at 
Rome, Naples, Florence, London. &;c. Among these 
are the Elgin marbles, the ^gina marbles, and a 
copy of Canova's Theseus and Centaur. 

In the Great Hall of Sittings is a cornice orna- 
mented by several pieces of Titian, with emblems, 
heads, Ac. Over a door are excellent bas-reliefs, 
attributed to Donatello. Four bas-reliefs of the 
Invention of the Cross are by A. Riccio. In a second 
room is the Chevalier Bossi's collection of designs 
of the most celebrated artists, among which are 
many by Da Vinci, Raphael, and M. Angelo. 

Pcdazzo Oiustinian-LoUn^ on the Grand Canal, 
facing the Accadcmia, is by B. Ixmghena. A little 
below the Accadcmia is Palazzo Dario, faced with 
parti-coloured marbles of the fourteenth century. 
A little above it is Palazzo Caoalli, belonging to 
Baron Franehetti, wlio has had it restorer]. 

Palazzo Fosrari, on the Canale Grande, was built 
about 1400, but improved by Sansovino. It was 
the seat of the family which gives name to Byron's 
tragedy of the "Two Foscari," and is a noblo , 
structure; Francis I. lodged in it. It was turned 
into an Austrian barrack, as it coLvmnnds an angle 
of the canal. It now contains the High School of 
Commerce 

Palazzo Afocenigo, on the Canale Grande, has the 
cartoon of J. Tintoretto's Paradise, the large pic- 
ture in the Library of St. Mark Here Byron 
lived while writing "Marino Fuliero," Ac. 

Palazzo Pisani, on the CunalcGrande, built about . 
1400, contained the fine picture of the F»nnily of 
Darius supplicating Alexander, by P. Veronese, 
sold in 1-56 to the National Gallery for £14,000; 
and has Canova'a Daedalus and Icarus, one of his 
earliest works. 

Palazzo Barharigo was the residence of Titian. 
Some of his best works were sold to the Emperor 
of Russia in 1800. 

8. Luca, near S. Stefanb's. Over the altar is P. 
Veronese's St. Luke writing his Gospel. Near 
this is 

*Palazzo Grimani, one of Samniicheirs master- 
pieces, with a fine Coriuthiain threc-storoy front. 
It is now the Court of Appeal. " It embraces nil 
the elegance of classical ait. with the most perfect 
appropriateness to the purppses of a modem palace. 
Even the introduction of a magazine on the ground 
floor is so cleverly managed as not to be oflrcnsive, 
and the projection given to the upper cornice in 
excess of that and In the lower orders brings the 
whole into harmony. Its fayadv is 92 feet by 98." 
- {Fergufson .) The old Grimani Palace, near St. 
Tomn*« C\mrc\v V» al«o by Sammlchcli. 



Boute 190 

farther on Is 



TamOB— BULTO, BTC. 



lu-blij. highly pollBtiHI. ■ 



1588-91, by A. da Tonte, 75 feet span, very toUd. 
u^d aot « with deep 1ui3-re[icf9 and ataLuca of 



Bialla. by BrnxninolMi). on a rustic arcade or 
Iweiity-BTe grthei, compMea of the Lorlo aiid 

rating htia lor hl> sTancea. cLe hy la tha Church 



fouhth tour. 

Church of S. Oereaia, at the entiaoco to tha 
Canlrereio- 

Palam LoMit, on Oie C«nar»gglo, with fteicoM, 
by TlepolD. 

Paltia ilsi^Hn. sn (he Canarcggio Canal, 

portraits by^ Olorgione. which Byron mentlonjln 
(rlbutedlo bring Into [aihlcn. A eopy of TJtlan's 
The plctar^ yet Hmalnins In tot ale. " """■ 
Further up, on the right Biflo of IheCanaregglo, 
li the Qhnu reoMc leading Ui the ehtllo Nuom. 

. Longhena, a 

■ ~'2^'f^- 

leof ItaGftyChapi 
a ane altar by J. Poiio ; that of eebaatlsii Vcn 
la all Diarhlc, bronze, and Rlldli^g. A statue 
Santa Teresa la by llaldl. BcMud tho high al 
IsO Belllnrs(?)Madonna and Child. 

a flne Bt. Joronis In tho Desert, by P. Vcnn»c 
Prom Ihl) pu-t a gondola may be taken to i 
laland of the Gladecca, nasstne the Carapo 
Marte. and owning at three ehotehcs, S. Hlu 
B. Bebaitlano, and 1 Carmlnl. 

a, Iflali dH ifaialtaH. The Ihlrdohapalhaa 
dIIbt DD four plllara of eiCellant slalactttic mar 
Ballad ciKcladI Corfu. Bli coHuhqi of bWntUia 





•S. Stbatllaai) (liOe-lS) 








Baallio, 




arCaQipodi Marie. In 






1 Chapel are 




tue. 01 the Madonna a 




Child 








o Baptist, by I, Lomban 




rr 












oila 


alan) li 




re. On the high altar 




he Fir 


tM 


rtyrdom 


« 


SLHehastlan, hyp, V 












rther oil l> bis Second 




rtjTd 






K 


s the Martyrdom of B9 


M 


rkai 


IM 


rcelllno, 



bDllding (ihougb unfinished) by Palladlu 
), having a Greek portlcu with a double row 



erior."— fo.'ijXft. In the ucrUty Is a Virgin 
d Child and Two AJigela, a celebrated wort, 



Jfarfanna del Rosai-ia, or Ihc Geiuatl, en the 
lludeeca, by Maaaarl, la a church fronted by lofty 

ich and elegant tnbornaelc, supported by plllara 



Tt 


St. OiTKHfO 
..InOlory 


tProlaiio. 
waa Imllt 1 
marble bas 


-ellefi'ol <he Brtum 
^ eMh.^two''\lII 






FIFTH TOUR. 


Though a gondola Is not 
lie goes on !<-it tnaa ^t!ii> 


b«li.tdyr«gl.il.fo 
I'sheihopldmakati 



a-i™js.<i»ms> •■■A's* "^ 



L Tbomai, bnllt la 1741 by D. 



»ae, built ICi 
H Duit^nlficAn' 



uiariilo almr ul tbg flftHnth MntBrT. Cn> 

l3"riri?Uo Mlnolll Quny, nt tbs omi of whi 

the rlgbl. yon conie la IhaTuleatliil Qimy, ni 

TelmlM Churti. w a. NWIH dd Tolentlnl 

with s^Corinthiin lurtlca added by ^. Tlr 

Irescau by Ziinpinl anil Atireii. Oil (he 

mar IlH choir, li ■ c<in(8»>loniit, wlih n p 
onr it of S. Lnnnio aiuMlniani Dtslrlbutln 
Oooilt of Ih> Cbnrch (o (he Poor. 

Leaving this bulLdliiB, take tbe quay 1 
nshi and pneeed to the T«l«whl Bqaarei fi 



and pneeed to the T«l«whl » 

S. Olaeoma ailf OHo.— One j[0 
Jeiui Christ gupported by an Angel . , 
Ne,ir tbe -Ido door 1> a collinft In flvo eomMrt- 
ncnte; Iho middle one being; a palntLnE of Ihs 
TbMloirtcal Virtue* (lie other- tbe Four Docter*. 

by P. Veron«e. Close to Ihe dc— -' "■ '— 

li a picture of St. Sebaillon, I 
Lawrence, one of O. Duonenni 
Oo out by Ihe mcrlity door and 
and n ihort dlitancc brine* you 

SoBla Maria Itata- DtmiBi. bi 
UIO. In one comor of Ibis chu 



I.an; 



lata ilarta mariwa dtiFrari, n Ane old 

_ ig TedBKo-Goileo (Qsnuan-Goibli) ii 

t'tio ihlrteciilh century, built by tbe Minor 

- - li 200-1^8). IdiciunpanllBl. 

ilework.bySardlor Longheni 



of SI. Frai 









irbi i 

I. Th 
IK Ti/Um'. 



dato-l IWi. has a illtlnE HgurBDndor a cd 
Neil thl« Is Iho statue of SI, Jerome, a fine 
olA.VIItorUi. wllhahcadofTltlan. Fiirth 
Iho pidnrenf the Martyrdom ofSt.Cathrrlna, by 

?'Sr"-'_f' '*" •t^tuoofMan, by Bacela A» »(o 



ThtttUafoltKrit 



deservei notice, with its plclorea In tbres eom- 
partni«it% by G. Belllno. Um, of tbe Vltghi and 

Cbapd, of Doge Francisco Poscarl and Doge U. 
■"-- The Utter liuincniie composition contalna 

uthet^l>hyA.B^■«1lo. At the blgb iltaria 

right 'la the monument of Ocnoral Treil- 

■ olmple but elegant work. 

ir Ihe transept is the Orslni Tomb, by an nn- 



he Chapel of SL Peter 



of atatUH and 
. FurthoTonls 

n Tlllan-a 



tar-pleco of the Vlrsin with St. Peter an 

lenm of Doi^ Q. Pexaro, by B. Longhena, aap- 
iilcd by Jour negroes In white. On one side of 
Is Is a monument to Canova, erected by public 
ibscrlpllon, I8JT. and eKccnled by Zendomenighl, 
irrarl. Bosa. FabrK Martini. Blnildl. and Fadhta, 

llh a procession of An. Oei^los. Ac., wtlklnif 

rchdnchess Cbrlsilna. Beyond this Is an elegant 

Jtatae of S. John Ih's Bapllst, In the middle, Is by 

a Hnenuirhle lomb of P.Beniardo, who died 

mL In Ihe i 



i, superbly Inlaid 
e of Ihe Canozzi 



re kept, which 



■History of tbe Ri 

Ikomany other Its 
fans and back. ' 
[I IswonrlflrfuHy™ 



minoxis, going back to 



Deecrlptlim of Ihe Statu formerly under Vi 



•1 froi 

I,«vln>r"!^'e1-"oni'nl on th^rtl'you come to 
the Church of A. Asm, or St. Rnch. built I49».and 
roHnred mS. Here are paintings of St. Roch 
before tbe Pope. St. Roch In the Desert, and 

anotbcrt all byJ.Tlnlorelto. These are described 

elation and Christ In the hands or the F.Mcnlioneri, 
hf Titian. Tbe high altar Is hy Venlarlne, 
tiealnnlng otHieiA'attenttitKntUT. 



Bonte 19.] tikick— rsiRi, kuolx di n. rocco, cstRcnsB, btc. 

Tbe'&ii<:IiiifiS,X«ni,iinlni<tltiilefi>rcbartUble i ■culpturM. It nnlsini two Inc i 

Its loAgDLflcQLT AtaLrcnaa wai compLoIrd by 

Signlno, At lb* mlddLcgl It sr* two plctnri 
nnmicUtlou bj TUImi. and lli« Vbllallo 



hlitory. Tb 
pslntlDgi b; 



'IntoTotto, und v 



I'ii Bn» tlinber ieTlingii lij ¥'. Ptanls and M. Aiie«lo 

AboTotlii! bMutUul marble drwr. lltT. itandi the 
portrait dt Tlnlorella, palnlcit In hlnueH. IMl, 
On the mill in Ihe next room, called the Alberfo. 
(uciBj liila, i> bis (tr - ■ --- — -' 



Rnal 















Id Til Inn 






>■ ir <n 



■n body. Tbe» are gappmnt tu be syjubulicul 

br Iha Repnblic For treaion. Near lliiii eliuicli, at 
iheendofCaaiporaolo. It 

Palaao Omir-Mncriifgo, ■ line bulMtng by 
SmBBiclull. From Ihle yun pua bj- Call* della 
MadonMUtotlia Hlalto, and ri'acb theCkorcb of 

a8««««,orBllveater,-lnil.priHtLpaL<:hBpri 
I* a large picture at tbe Lord'i Bnppcr. I>y Palm* 
Veccliio. Gbirgloiie lived upporiia tbia cliarcb. 
Tnm to (be lafl Into Ihe alrcit which leadt 
to Itao Rliltu BrldicD, sailed Run Vecchia. 
when, by the aide u( an old tower, ta (he Cburcb of 

Si. Jt/m Ihe Almntr (S. Olonnnl ElemoalMrlo, 
nrS.Zuanedl Rla]to).bulll by Scanuffnlno. about 
liW. Palntluga liy Titian (at the high altar). 
" -• o, *e. From tble, over Iho RInlto, to the 



6 .ite, 

wing qalle out of repair. 1u thia ncliphbourbood 
S- Cattiano, containing three good Tintoretioa. 

tenrrecIlDD. 

SIXTH TOUE. 
On foot or In Kondola. according to the In- 

illBitlonDftheTlilIor. 
BS. AftioH. or Holy Apofilo' Chorch. la mn 






IB bridge on Iha 

iih cenlury. tba 
chcaded in lUS. 



- t, built 1488. Falntlupi by Dal 

(at tbe high altar) and G. Uelllnl. Near 

le Mallbrui Tbeatre. the moat iHiplUiv In 
CDOlinuaun toward! Ihe Rial to. aeroeitho 
if S. KartoloniniED towarda tbe Ucrcetla, 



VIrrin an 



■ork,euppo>edtob« 



third altar, by SaniovlDo, la a painting of Iha 

lu Ihc rlgbl la' tbe large" mauagteunt of CalbeHna 
or Cjprut, by whoae marrlita 
.1 ,1,1, Venellani 6in |«t 



brolher, Francla Veeelllo. ' 
Priuli, Buppoaed to te by C. 



IllcrlUrlU 
e right, la 



nted by Titian^ 

St. Jenme. br 
I of Iha ehgreli. 



1 1bc Royal Palace, lo the Church^" * '"' 
8. MeU. In which Law. the author o[ Ihe Hlu 



84. 



BBADftHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



,S» Fantino Church. Here are two marble monu- 
ments to B. Martini and V. Dandulo, of tlie six- 
tecnfh century. Above tlie door of tlic Siicristy 
is A small picture of the Virgin iind Infant Jcsuh, 
by G. Bellini. Leave by this door and j'ou 
CQjhe out in front of the Atcneo Vcncto. where 
ttiiere is a library and roadhi^^-rooni. Then take 
tl^e way to the left, throuKh Piazza S. An-relo, 
to. the beautiful Cloister of S. Stcfjino, built, 1532, 
by Fra Gabriel. From thence you pass on to 

*S. Stefano, or St. Stephen's Church, near Rio 
del Santissimo; a large Gothic structure, erected, 
1294-13)5, for the Austin Friars. It contains a 
magnificent high altar, and monuments to F. 
Morosini, the Peloponnesian, and to several of the 
Contarini family. On the left of the great door 
is'/a raiausoleum of G. Suriuno, a famous doctor of 
the fourteenth century, with a bronze bas-relief 
of the Virgin and Child, with «>ther figures by an 
unknown a'tist. Leaving this, walk down the 
Compo 8. Stefaho, and you pass the Palaces Lore • 
dai'O and Pisani, both good, and the latter very 
large; also the Palazzo Morosini, built In the six- 
teenth century. lA this square is a statue of the 
savant Niccolb Tommas^o. Through the square of 
S.-.Stefanoto the street on the right side, and over 
the neighbouring bridge, to the Piazza S. Maurizio ; 
sot. called after the Church of 

'ff. Maurizio. or St. Matirice, in which are sculp- 
tjires by D. Fadiga, rf modem artist. Turn to the 
right over two bridges, near the Churches of Santa 
Mftria of the Lily and Santa Maria Zobenigo. 
The latter church, by G. S.^rdi (I68i)), has a pic- 
turesque fapade, full of columns and statues, and 
rather overdone with ofnament. The rest of the 
building, with its spire, is plain. Follow the way 
towards St. Mark's Square, over Ostriche Bridge; 
beyond which, on the left, is the Micheli Court, 
where, at No. 2,040, is the Testocchi-Albrizzl Pal- 
ace; in which is a fine head of Canova, his gif r to 
the Countess Isabella. A little further on to the 
left is a turning called Pisina di S Mois^, where 
Count Cicognara lived, at No. 8,218. He was the 
founder of the Academy of Fine Arts, and the 
author of a splendid work on the most striking 
bitildings in Venice. *' U Fahhriche piu cospicue di 
Venezia'^ In his collection is a bust of Dante's 
Beatrice, and a large one of the Chevalier Cicog- 
nara, both by Canova. who presented them to the 
Chevalier; lilso a bust of Canova, by his pupil, 
Riiialdi, copied frojn one by Canova himself. 

From the Cicognara Palace proceed through 
Calle Limga; thence, turning to the right, and 
then to the left, vou come to the Barozzi Court, 
in which, at No. 1,256, Is the 

Palazzo Emo-Trnvet, on the Grand Canal, next 

thf Hotel deir Europa, containing Canova's 

colossal m 'rble sMuet of Hector and AJax. Cross 

^/f^ llArozzi Bridge, "and proceed towards St. 

AfjgrAr'jf r/ace. At the Comello Palace is Canova's 

Z^^f^i^^/'Cf'^^^'*'^'^^ Taking Leave of bis Family 
^ ^rJnkfae> the Hemlock. 



SEVENTH TOUR. 



On Foot, or In Gondola, from Razza S. Marco 
northwards. 

*Santa Maria Formosa is in the Carapo of the 
same name, nnd ne «r the pcturesquc Porta del 
Pnradiso. of the fourteenth century. lUiilt 1491, 
and rc])uilt in Sansovino's time. On the do >r is a 
statue of Gen. Cnpello. At the altar to the right, 
on entering, is a picture in six divisions, by Palina 
Vecchio. having S. Barbara in the middle. From 
this church, or from S. Pietro, in C istello, the 
brides of Venice were carried off by the Istrian 
pirates, in 887. Several brides were to be marriecl 
here at the same time. The pirates from Trieste 
landed, and bore them away ; but they were pursued 
by the Doge, Pietro Candiano, who rescued the 
brides and brought them back in triumph; an 
event formerly celebrated on 2nd February, and 
often dramatised. Near this is the Querini Libranr, 
a free library, founded by thn Duke of Queiiui; 
application to be made lo the librarian. Leaving 
by the right aisle, turn to the right, and we come 
to the Palazzo Malipiero^ over the canal, in front 
of it. Cross the bridge to Calle Ruga Giuffa, in 
which is 

* Palazzo Orimani, built by the Patriarch Grimani 
in the fifteenth century. The court was once 
decorated with a rich collection of ancient statues, 
urns, bas-reliefs, inscriptions, &c., of which but 
little is left. On the left, as we enter, is a 
colossal Mark Agrippa, from the vestibule of the 
Pantheon, at Rome, with a companion statue, 
called an Augustus, but really a manufaetured 
figure. Among the pictures in the rooms of 'he 
palace is A. DUrer's Institution of the Rosary, full 
of portraits, including those of thi' artist and his 
wife. Five pictures are devoted to the History of 
Psyche, the largest of which is a master-piece of 
F. Salviati, of Florence. 

Turn back to Santa Maria Formosn, and, opposite 
the Ruga Giuffa Bridge, is the Priuli Palace. 
Follow the street at the side of it, and, after cross- 
ing two bridges, you come to the square of Santa 
Maria. Then turning to the riglit, cross the 
bridge, to the Calle de' Mlrac^dl, and the Square 
and Church of 

* Santa Miiria dei MiracoH, built 1481-9, an elegant 
building in the early-pointed style, something like 
S Zaccaria, with a great chapel, much admired, 
having a balustrade, altar, «fec., in well-executed 
marble, by the Lombardi. Leaving this church, go 
over four bridges in succession, to the Church of 

♦SS. Giovanni e Paolo, or SS. John and Paul, 
called "San Zanipolo " by the Venetians; the 
next churclj to St. Mark in point of interest and 
magnificence, being ^I'O feet long, and full of monu- 
ments of Dogc:?, Senators, tfec. It was built by one 
of the Pisanos, in the Gothic style (12*6-1430), 
and stands near the Civil Hospital (formerly the 
Scuola of S. Marco, by M. Lombardo, 1485), and the 
Rio del Medicanti. It is full of monuments and 
statues, of the pointed and Renaissance periods. 



Boute 19.] 



VENICE — SS. ©lOVAKNI B PAOLO, ORTO, ETC. 



^5 



Kear tho entrance, on the riprht, is the tomb of 
Doge Mocenlgo, by the Lomhardi family. At 
the first altar, is the Virgin and Child and Saints, 
one of the best worlcs of G. Bellini, in distemper, 
almost destroyed by time ; and a monmnent to M. 
Lancia, by Barthcl, 1674; observe the expression 
of a woman who is weeping. At the second altar, 
• which is rich and elegant, is a picture in nine 
divisions, of a Dead Christ, the Annunciation, St. 
Christopher. Ac; a celebrated work by Bartolom- 
meo or L. Vivarini. Then comes the large man- 
. soleum of Doge Valier, nenr a stahicd glass 
window, by J. Mocctto In the sixteenth century. 

At the eighth altar the Saviour and his Apostles, 
a beautiful work of Marcori. In the great chapel, 
on the right wall, is the monument of Doge M. 
Horosini, decorated with many sculptures and 
some mosaics of the fourteenth century. A fine 
mausoleum of Doge L. Loredano, by J. Grafiglia, 
in 1572. Opposite this, another of Doge Vendra- 
mini, or the "New Man," who was made a noble for 
his great services at Chioggia, against the Genoese. 
It is one of the most elegant monuments in Venice. 
There is another to Admiral C. Zcno, who figured 
in the same war. The high altar is a magnificent 
work, by M. Camero (161 '')i behind which is the 
Annunciation, by L. Carona. The partition walls 
of this altar are covered with marble bas-reliefs of 
the Life of Christ, the work of several artists be- 
tween 1600 and 1732, as Bonazza, Tagliapietra, 
Doretto (Canova's master), &c. ; besides beautiful 
carvings in wood. To the left, near tho sacristy 
door, is the monument of r>oge P. Malipiero. 
Below it, a picture of tho Crowning of the Virgin, 
attributed to Carpaccio. Furtlior on, are various 
monuments, including that of General P. Gius- 
tiniani on horseback, by F. Tcrilli, of Fcltre; that 
of Doge T. Mocenigo,*and another of Doge N. 
Marcello, about the end of the fifteenth century. 

Other tombs are lo the memory of Captain- 
General Orsini, and to Bragadino, the defender of 
Famagosta. Near the great door was Titian's 
famous picture on wood of ♦.Sf I'eter Martyr (a 
Dominican monk, at Milan, killed in 1227), con- 
sidered the third or fourth best picture existing, 
but unluckily burnt, 1867. Titian's bust is over 
the church door. Near the same door is the large 
monument to Doges A. Mocsnigo and G. Bembo, 
by Grapiglia; and below it an elegant one to B. 
Bragadino; and two stone landscapes, by Doretto, 
the master of Canova, deserve notice for their 
delicate finish. 

The Sarcophagus of the Doge Marino FaHero 
formerly stood inside the little chapel of Sta. Maria 
della Pace, but when Byron was hore he found it 
placed outside the wall Close to this church, at 
libmbardi's Scuola of S. Marco, now a hospital, is the 

Colfeoni Monument, to the memory of Bartolom- 
meo Colleoni, of Bergamo, a celebrated leader 
vnder the Venetian Republic, and one of the first 
who made use of cannon. The pedestal, in the 
Corinthian style, is much admired for the richness 
of its marble carvings. Kuskin says it is one of 
-tfi« most g}oti<m8 pieces of Sk-nlpturo in the world. 



Leaving this, walk to the Comiani Palace. After 
tills is visited, return to the Fondamente NuoTe 
Quay, and then over a bridge to the ^ 

Jesuits' Church, generally known as the Gesulti; 
a modern grey and green building, by D Rotu^i, 
1728, but richly adorned with coloured marbles 
and sculptures. The marble pulpit has a canopy 
and curtains of marble, and even a marble carpef. 
The high altar Is a magnificent piece of work, by 
Fra J. Fozzo, enriched with lapis lazuli and verdc- 
antlco pillars. Here is the flag of the last Doge, 
Manin. A chapel on the left, close to the wall, has 
a fine monument to Doge P. Cicogna, by Canii- 
pagna. Observe among the paintings, the 
Martyrdom of S. Lawrence, by Titian; tlie 
Circumcision and the Assumption, both by Tin- 
toretto; the Preaching of 8. Francis Xavler, by 
Llberl ; and the Virgin in Glory, by Paln&a 
Vecchio. From this church turn to the left, folloyr 
the quay to 

Santa Caterina, belonging to the Liceo-Convitto 
College, founded 1807, by the French. At the 
high altar is P. Veronese's Marriage of S. Cathp- 
rlne. Thence down the canal, called Traghetto di 
Santa Caterlna, to the 

Abbey Church, or Abbadlazza della MisericordXli. 
It contains the Tobias of Cima da Con6gliano. 
From this, follow the quay over the Muti Bridget 
and along the Mori Quay, past Tintoretto's Hous<^; 
at the end of which, turn to the right, cross the 
Madonna dell' Orto Bridge, to the Church of 

*SantaMaria delV Orto, a large and anclen t Got-^ 
structure, built. 1350-1480, of brick; with a caflt- 
panlle tower 175 feet high. Ten pillars of velnejl 
Greek marble support the nave. This church has 
for many years been in course of restoration. In tlie 
chapel on the right is the large Judgment Day of 
Thitoretto; and to the left, the Adoration of the 
Golden Calf, with Mount Slnal, and Moses receivlirg- 
the Two Tables, a companion picture by the same 
artist, who was buried here— (see "Moderh 
Painters"). His 8. Agnes, which the French 
carried off to Paris, with other pictures, is now it 
the Academy. Two rich marble monuments fi|l 
up the sides of this chapel, on which are six busts 
of the Contarinl family: Near this church, arid 
the railway station, Is the Church of 

S. Oiobbe (S. Job), built, 1451-33. by the Lombard!. 
It contains a fine choir. The foriner Botanic Gar- 
den Is close by. Cross the Madojina dell' Ortaand 
Mori Bridges ; follow the quay on the left; to S. 
Marclllano Bridge and the Church of 

S Marcilmno. or S. Martial. At the first altal', 
inside the prnicipal door, is a fanious picture of 
♦Tobias and the Angel, by Titian. Return over the 
last bri'lge, take the turning to the right, and rft 
the end of the quay is the Convent of Misertcordia. 
Cross tho bridge of this name, tunri to the right, 
and follow the quay to the Church of S. Ftlix. 




Besides t\\e cVwotOwsis t^x^-aft.-^ "^'^"^*^'^^'^^"?^^ 



Sinner; mlil S. Alviw und Ibo Reformitl, facing 
t GuHle dl MuriliD. 

Oanla ilaria !• at tbe weil eiid of the Otud«ca 
Ciiul. ^ulii Tiraa mil Amla Maria MoB^ari 
•ra Dur lb< Ckidpd dl Mine {Field of Mun). uol 

d*lTiibachl). U rtrsiaimia.PMnPatrUinau 

S-Glaamo l> In tho Qlodscn, neir Rio do Punto 



fOrs.mMch hoi rich but unanlibed fiifiuls, of 

"It hsm no bigh nxirun- boldly nurktd botlnuei; 

■Rkalgn: anderory part li pBTvadcd by h fmiclfnl 



Vih!)cg, uwtl 
Oolblc peiiud. 



be bDlldlnfft of tbe pointed 

li Caltrffi, by P. LoinbArdo, 
:^iita atyle. "Nntblng ciui 



Opposite 1 

Xbmo OMaa • Oanrw, 

beoneelbedt— --'—•■■■ ' 



Aoant Owrtr.uid ii op« 
».mediil><.HSS..iurhle 
plan of Venlte. w old . 






Mr^ tlraelan at Iho fi.uitiHulli ceiUDrr 
er antaom; unolter IVIaia Cmtarlii\ 
• Saaaolo, It tappOMd ts b* bjr lb 



Lomburdl. aboat Ilia buKH 

Paiaiu, TrifUami. by Der) 
uid linpoiilngfgciide. Iloi 



me CaniirUvskl, an i 
houK, by Bergamum. lUi, n 

good ba«id«iit, by §nmrn1che 






In (IMt). 1> In 11 



t belnn^ lo Blanu 
i<Ib]t7E,lbeUrg«tiB 

near the Rlalto. 

B. Paolo, liai ■ 
r Comtr}, called 
y conpled Corin- 



tlie Rlilto. I> bIm by SanMi- 
"""■"nry, Ihowh altered by 
It baialnntof llirM 
I be lait Doge, Hanln, 
u,u Daodolo," Bcarthb, la 

lie Prert Chnrcb, by A. TH- 
K Woreys or oideri. It la 
inliqaltlH. 

lovanilllU a rldily-adonied 

init be ohtabicd beforehand. 






D by Long. 



BIOHTH TOUK. 



* glaM. plalo-gb 



dandi In 

atG.aaapopaia- 



Abooey, wbkh lb«]r 



Boute l9.j VEMICB~MlZRAKO» S. AKDftBA DEL LIDO, OHIOOOIA. 



37 



motalded round the ends, keeping them red-hot. 
Then, after forming a hole in the centre of each, 
they stood opposite another, and joining the two 
lumps just where the holes were, they walked 
backwards, pulling the soft glass into a long thin 
pipe of 100 feet or more in length, till the lamps 
were exhausted. When retouched it was hard, 
and the perforation ran through it from end to end. 
This was broken into lengths and carried to another 
room, where, by a very simple machine, it was cut 
up into bugles or beads; and beyond were rooms 
full of girls, threading them for the Eastern mar- 
ket. This they effected by having large basins of 
beads before them, and a number of long, slender 
needles ready threaded, in one hand, which they 
plunged into the basins repeatedly till all were 
full : then pulling the beads on to the thread, they 
renewed the action. By this means the work was 
speedily done." — Miss Catlow's Sketching Rambles. 

At the Church of S. Michcle, over the great door, 
is the monument of Cardinal Doffino, who died 
1622, chiefly by Beniini. The lofty choir is covered 
with many sculptured marbles; and the church 
altogether is highly ornamented. There are monu- 
ments to Fra Paolo Sarpi, the historian, and Morclli, 
the scholar, a foroier librarian of St. Mark's. 

On the left is the Cappella Emiliana, a highly 
adorned domed chapel of six sides, 28 feet diameter 
within, by Bergamasco. 

33. Fietro ePaoIo Church containsmany paintings. 
Near the second altar is Pordonone's Annunciation. 
To the left of this, near the wall, is the Virgin on 
a Throne, with the infant Jesus and Saints; a fine 
work by Vivarini. Fronting this picture is G. 
Bellini's Virgin and the two Aiigels, with the Doge 
A. Barberigo, and other persons, kneeling before 
her. Lieaving this church cross the wooden bridge, 
tarn to the left, and on the quay is 

Degli Angeli Church. — The sacristy has some 
ancient tapestry from Cartoons of the Venetian 
school of the sixteenth century. A little way back 
firom this, beyond the bridge, is 

3. Donato, the Duomo of Murano, the oldest and 
most curious church here, in the Byzantine style 
of the twelfth century. Ten Greek marble columns 
Bnpport the roof, and the pavement is inlaid with 
mosaics of the year 1 140. A picture of the Virgin 
is almost as old as the church, and there are soaae 
traces of early frescoes, but the whole are in a 
state of neglect. The altar of the chapel is 
imposing. 

, BurailO is north of this ; where lace and straw 
hats are made. 

Then comes TorcellO, which has a fine old 
church, built 1008, by Bishop Orseolo, covered with 
mosaics and marble. Eighteen pillars, with 
curiously shaped capitals, hold up the nave. The 
holy water basin was formerly a Pagan altar. 
The sanctuary, further in, is adonied with beautiful 
marble sculptures ; within this, in old times, only 
the clergy were allowed to come. Behind the high 
Altar Is the bishop's marble cbair, nnder a Tault 



covered with fine mosaics of the Last Judgment, 
which have been restored. The antiquated marble 
shutters on iron hinges are worth remark. From 
this church, you proceed to the very old Church of 

3. Fosca, built in the ninth century, out of the 
stones of Roman buildings, by fugitives from 
Altinum and JuHa Concordia, on the mainland, 
when it was ravaged by the barbarians. This 
church is decorated with pillars in the Greek 
style. 

There is a small Museum of Antiquities here. 

The island of Santa Elkna, close to Venice, has 
a church to the memory of the Empress Helena. 

S. Andrea del Lido, the old port of Venice, so 
called from the Lido or Littorale, a strip 35 miles 
long, which fences offtheseafrom the lagt>un8, has a 
fortress or castle, built 1541-71, by Sammicheli, to 
command the main entrance here (10 feet of water). 
It has a Doric entablature, and is a master-piece 
of this architect, many of whose works still exist 
at Verona. There is a large sea-bathing establish- 
ment. In 1887, a sum of £200,000 was voted for 
expenditure on breakwaters, Ac. Here Byron used 
to ride, and wished to be buried. "No pencil can 
paint the scene which I have so often beheld from 
the shores of the Lido, when the sun pours Ills 
last rays upon innumerable domes, palaces, 
and towers, floating as it were on the bosom of the 
water; and long after he has sunk behind the 
cupola of St. George, leaves his old purple light 
upon .the distant snow-Alps and far-seen pro- , 
montories of Istria." - Lord Broughton. 

There are steamers every half-hour from Venice 
during the season. 

Malamocco, or Malamauco, guarding one of 
the chief entrances from the Adriatic (with 17 feet 
of water), was the early seat of the Doges, after 
leaving Eraclea, where the first Doge, Anafesto, 
was elected, in 697. They removed hence to the 
Rialto, in 8U9. 

Forts Alberoni and S. Pietro are stationed at the 
mouth of the Porto, di Malamocco, In the middle 
of the great djke, which is 14 miles long, nt the 
edge of the lagoons, and is made of enormous 
stone blocks. 

On S. Lazzaro, to the south of Venice, is a eon- 
vent of Armenians, who settled here 1717, and 
have a library of 10,000 volume?*, about 400 
Armenian MS8., some as early as the fourth 
century, but most of them of the eighth century; 
a printing press, and a priests' seminary. Byron 
studied Armenian here, and helped his tutor in a 
dictionary of the language. 

Near Pelestrina are the Murazzi, or break- 
waters, strengthening the sandbanks enclosing 
the lagoon. 

Chioggia, the southernmost island of the La- 
goons (35J miles from Rovigo, page 59), contains a 
town and bishop's see of 20,380 souls, witji a good 
cathedral, theatre, &c. Here, in 1380, the Genoese 
were finally defeated after a long and dQvvht.&&]L 
struggle, and 4^<K\Q tcv'^.^si ^xNass«»ft«% >s^ ^^ 



1^ 



BRJLDSHAW'S ITXLY, 



[Section ). 



Genoese Admiral, P. Dorla, being killed by a stone 
bullet, 1951bs. weight. A steamer runs from 
Cbioggia to Venice. The inhabitants of Chioggia 
are peculiar as regards language, customs, and 
appearance. 

Routes from Venice. — By rail to Trieste and 
Vienna. Tu Padua, Milan, Ferrara (see Routes 
13 and 30). By steam to Trieste, in 6 hours. 



— Continued, 



From Venice, by rail, to Trieste, 186 miles in 6 
hours; to Vienna, 363 miles, in 21 hours. 

The stations are as follow : — 



Miles. 

Pordcnone 51^ 

Casarsa 64 

Godroipo 70| 

PaslanSchiavonesco 78 

Udine 85 

Buttrio 90* 

S.OiovanniManzano 94| 
Cormons* 98 



Miles. 

Mestre df 

'Mogliano 12 

Treviflo 18f 

Lancenigo 23 

Spresiano 27| 

Susegana 31i 

Conegliduo 35f 

Pianzano 40^ 

Sacile 46^ 

*Thi8 is the Austrian frontier station. The 
stations to Trieste are:— Gorizia (or Gorz), Rubbia- 
Savogna, Sagrrado, Ronchi, Monf alcoue, Nabresina, 
and Grignano. 

From Venice, across the lagoon, to • 

Mestre (Stat.), as in Route 13. From hero 
a line runs through S. DOXUl dl Piave to PortO- 
groaro, continued to Udine (sec below). The 
next place of importance is 

Treviso (Stat.) 

Inns: Stella d*Oro; Albergo Reale. 

The ancient tiU'visium, under the Golhs (whose 
last king was a native), now a bishop's see, &c., in 
a fertile part of the Sile. Population, with suburbs, 
31,000. After the Longobardi or Lombards held it, 
it became the head of a district called MarcaTrevi- 
sana; was acquired by the Venetians in the four- 
teenth century, and besieged in 1509 by the German 
and French armies. The street!) are old and irregu- 
lar, with ornamented arcades before the houses. A 
cross-shaped Cathedral, begun by the Lombards, 
and still incomplete, has paintings by Veronese, 
Titian, andBordone (Adoration of the Shepherds), 
a native. The town-hall, and Palazzo Provinciale 
are near it. St. Nicholas's Gothic Church has 
works by Bellini and Sebastlano del Piombo; and 
there is a work by Giorgionc (or Pordcnone ?), in 
the Monte di Pietfe. Other buildings are, ten or 
eleven Churches, the Bishop's Palace, the Palazzi 
(seats) of the Pola, Brescia, and other families, the 
hospital. Seal a theatre, public library of 30,000 vol- 
umes, Imanic garden, and Athcnadum or academy 
o/sciBocuB^ &c. The province was calledTrevisiano 
nriiea // belongred to Venice, A short line (23 

ifooned, pMst Ponto PU v; in 1885. 



From Treviso there is a line, h%\ miles, to 
Bellimo, through Oomuda and Feltre, which 
has a monument to CastalpI or Castalal^ who 
Is said to have first taught the use of moveable 
type. Near here Is Pie:oe di Codore, the birth 
place of Titian, to whom there is a statue He died 
aged 99, having painted 600 works. Rail also to 
Vicenza, see page 60. 

Conegllano (Stat.) Population, 5,000. It 
has an old castle, and a church containing an attar- 
piece, by G. B. Cima, called Oima da Ccneglimno^ 
a native of this town. From here a branch line 
is open to Vlttorio, 9 miles. 

The earthquake of June, 1873, which half 
destroyed Belluno, did great damage to FerettO, 
near Conegllano ; where the Church of St. Peter, 
a rotten old building, was overturned during 
service, and 38 persons killed. 

Sacile (Stat.), on the Tivenza. Pop. 4,500. 

Pordenone (Stat.) Population, 5,000. The 
birth-place of G. A. L. Sacchiense da Pordenone, 
the painter, some of whose works are in the town 
churches. 

Casarsa (Stat.) The rail crosses the stony 
bed of the Tagliamento, by a long viaduct, to 

Godroipo (Stat.) The next place is 

Pasiano Schlavonesco (Stat.), near Cainf^ 

Formic, or Formido (on the right), where tko 
Treaty of October, 1797, which decided the fate of 
Venice, was signed by the French and Austrlnns^ 

Udine (Stat) Population, 32,000. An arch- 
bishop's see and the old capital of FrtuU, whicb 
belonged to the Patriarch of AquUeia, and was. 
acquired by Venice in 1446. It was ravaged by 
pestilence in 151 1 and 1665. Among the buildinga 
are the Patriarch's old Castle^ averlooking the- 
plain; a Cathedral of the fourteenth century 5 
the Palazzo Publico, near the Pillar of St. Mark;- 
a campanile or clock tower, built by Giovanni da 
Udine, a native artist; the Archbishop's Palace, 
and Pal, Bartolinl, containing rare MSS. an^ 
coins, and the Coronation of the Virgin, by aBother 
native, Girolamo da Udine. From here, a branch 
RaUvtay is op^i across the plain of Friuli, to San 
Pelaffio, THcesimo, Tarcento^ Magnano-Artegna^ 
Qemona (an old place on a hill, near Monte 
Chiampo, 6,625 feet high), Carnia, Resittttet^ 
Cblusaforte, and Pontebba, on the Austrian 
frontier, thence to Vienna. Short line from 
Udine to Cividalk, the ancient Forum Julii, with 
an interesting Cathedrol, Museum, &c. 

S. Oiovanni Manzano (Stat.), the Italian 
frontier Nation. 

Cormons (Stat.), the Austrian Customs-house. 
Here Prague time is kept. 

Gorizia (Stat.), on the Isonzo, which forms 
the border line of Austrian Italy. The line 
descends the river to 

Boncbl (Stat.), Honfalcone (Stat.), and 
Nabresina (Stat), on the Gulf of Trieste 
Then througYi 



iloate 20.] 



TBEVI80, UDINK, BSTB, FBBBABA. 



89 



Miles. 

Arquh 32* 

PoUoscla 36i 

S. Mnria Mnddalcna..4di 

Pontclagoscuro 45 

Fcrrara 47^ 



Orlgnano (Stat.)» to the tcrminns at 
Trieste Station. (See Bradshaw's Continental 
Cfuidej. 

HOXJTB SO. 

Fadua to Arqn4. Bste, Roylgo, Ferrara» 

and Bologna. 

By rail, as follows, from Padua: — 
Miles. 

Abano G\ 

BAtta^lia Ill 

Monselice ICl 

Este 18 

RoviflTO 27J 

[Bra. to Adria<k Verona.] t 

AbanO (Stat.) Population, 2,S00. Noar hot 
springs and rand baths (Pons Aponi) which have 
been naed by invalids from Roman times. One is 
up to 180 deg^rees; they are Kt>od for rheumatism 
and the skin. BoteJs: Orologio; Due Torre; and 
a Bath House. There are similar sprin^^n at other 
spots around. Llvy was actually bom at Abano, 
thopgb claimed as a Paduan. It is also the birth- 
place of Pletro d' Abano, a philosopher of the 
fourteenth century. 

Battaglla (Stat.) and its old Castle (valuable 
antiques), natural hot springs and vapour baths, 
and Bath House, beautifully situated .tnd of coi^ 
siderable repute. About 2 miles south-west is 

Ar<inl^, the Roman Arquata, a healthy spot in the 
Euganean Hills, which, likewise, contains mineral 
springs, hut is most celebrated as the residence of 
Petrarch in his last days ; where he died peacefully, 
in 1874, with his head over a book in his library. 
They show his Tomb, which, with his bust, stands 
on four pillars of red marble in the Chapel of the 
Yii^n, which he built; also his house, chair, 
stuffed cat, and other relics. Several of his later 
works were written in this quiet retreat. The fifth 
centenary of his death was observed by a l&te 
here 1874. 

MontellceCStat.) Population, 5,000;. Where 
also a road may be taken to Arquk. It has a fine 
old Ckutle on the volcanic heights. 

[A line runs from here to EstO, MontagnauA, 
.-Li^ago, and Mantua (page 65). 
ESTE (Stat.) 

Jhn: Speranza. 

An ancient town (population, 10.650), near the 
Soman AIe$te, in a fine part of the Euganean Hills; 
having a round Lombard church, with a lean- 
ing tower or Campanile, and the feudal Rocco, or 
Castle of the Este family, one of the oldest in 
Europe. Its head, to go no further hack, was 
Oberto, Count of the Palace, and son-in-law of the 
Emperor Otho, who died 972. His grandson, 
Albertaxso II., received the fief of Este about in«0; 
and his great great grandson. Albertaxso, was Wulf 
or Welf IV.. from w hom desoends the Royal House 
ot Brunswick, or Este-Guelph, now represented bj' 

Soeen Viotona and other branches. Azzo V., in 
le. twelfth century, was elected Lord of Forrara, 
whldi henoeforth becaiue fiielr seat ; whilo Este 



was tftkon by the Padvans, 1298; and by the 
Venetians, who retained ft, 1405. In the year 
1288. the family acquired Modcna.] 
After crossing the Adige, you come to 

ROVlgO (Stat.) The head of a small waters- 
province, between the Adige and Po. and a bustling 
town of 9,600 inhabitants. Among its noticeable- 
buildings are the Cathedral of the Bishop of Adria, 
and the Palazzo Comunale, facing the column of 
St. Murk, with a large library and good picture- 
gallery. Richeno, or Rhoviginus, the scholar, was* 
a native. Another was Erminia Fusinato, tho; 
poetess, bom 1834, and buried at Rome. 

Branch Lines to Lama, Adria, and Chioggin 
(page 87), 35| miles; and to Lognago and Verona. 

[Adria (Stat.), or Hadria, about 15 miles oast of 
Rovigo, was once a Roman municipinm and port on 
the Adriatic, to which it gave name, but is now 15 
mi/es from the sea. Population, 9,000. Remains 
still exist of the jv^alls, baths, amphitheatre, 
aqueducts. Ac, of the ancient town, which lay some 
feet lower than the modem one. and nearer the 
sea, the wide tract towards which has been filled 
up l)y river deposits.] 

Arqilll (Stat.), not to be confounded with the 
Arquk of Petrarch, near Battaglla, above men- 
tioned. 

Folesella (Stat.) or PoUisella, on the Po, tha 
Bocche or mouths of which are 30 miles below. 

Sta. Maria Maddalena(Stat.), where the- 

line crosses the river to Ponte Lagoscuro, in the 
Ferrarcsc and the Romagna, now part of th« king- 
dom of Italy, by the popular vote of 12th Marchv 
1860. All this region of marsh and swamp i» 
protected by strong dykes from the cttcroachment» 
of the Po. 

From Pontelaffoseuro it is 5 miles to 

FEBBABA (Stat.) 

Population, 76,000. 

Hotels: Stella d'Oro; De TEurope; Tire BTocf; 
Tre Corone. 

*OMe/ Objects of Notice. — Ariosto's Howse, Cathe- 
dral, St. Benedetto, Santa Maria del Vado, Campo 
Santo, Dncal Palace, Pinacoteca, Santa Anna and 
Taspo'a Cell, Schifanoja Palace, Lyceum, Guarini's 
House. 

Ferrara, situated in a rich "plain, has declfned 
iu magnificence, population, and commerce, since 
Ario«to, its most <<>minent native, praised his 
"Cittli bene awenturosa,"as "di tutta Italia il 
pregio e*l vanto." But being large and well built 
its aspect is still imposing. It is the seat of the- 
Governor of the Province, and of an archbishop, 
and was formerly part of t^e Papal dominions,., 
standing near the Po, to which several canals or- 
naviglios run. 

Among its "wide end grass-grown streets,"" 
the best are Corso V. Emanuele and Strada della' 
Giovecca, meeting at th^ C«a*.\.^ Nsev •Csv'^ *s«^^^ 
squats aw^i CoT%o ^\ ^^> ^'>«^ "^ ^^S^tSSSSZ' 



90 



BRADSHAW'g ITALY. 



f Section 1. 



railway station to the Porta dl Mare. The 
town itself, fh>m the Porta di S. Benedetto to 
Porta di S. Giorgio, is not less than two miles 
in extent. Its fortified walls, nntil 1859, were 
garrisoned by an Austrian detachment, to support 
the authority of the Pope's legate. A strong 
citadel on the west side, on the site of the Piazza 
di Armi, was razed in )859. 

Compared with other Italian cities, Ferrara is 
modem, having grown up since the sixth century, 
when it was first enclosed by the Exarchs of Ra- 
venna. Though exhibiting in its deserted streets 
many marks of decay— noticed by Addison, 1670, 
who speaks of it as "very large, but extremely 
thin of people" — its population has increased 
lately, and it carries on a good trade, which may 
possibly extend under the new order of things, 
assisted by the railway. About 2,000 Jews are 
settled here, who, as usual, live by themselves in 
their Ghetto quarter, where theyhaveasynagogue^ 
Ac. The people of Ferrara have the reputation of 
being agreeable in their manners, and hospitable; 
but its chief drawback arises from the marshy 
exhalations to which it is at all times subject. 

In 1208, AzzoYI., of the line of Este,was chosen 
by the citizens as vicar, or lord over them : being 
the first instance of a free Italian city doing what 
in the course of time became a regular practice 
with all, to save themselves A'om those intemnl 
contests with which it has always been tlieir 
misfortune to be afflicted. One of his descendants, 
Azzo Novcllo, of the Gnelf party, and a great 
patron of learning, invited the troubadours here, 
and fonnded schools and a famous university. 
Niccolo III., called "Azo" in the poem, was the 
husband of Byron's Parisina Malatetta, who was 
executed in 1405. Bcrso, another descendant, 
was a generous and enlightened prince, and became 
the first Duke of Ferrara, Modena, Ac After him 
came his illegitimate brother, Ercole, who estab- 
lished a theatre and a Hebrew press here, and 
delighted in the company of scholars, as Bojardo, 
Tebaldeo, <fcc. Alfonso I., his successor, who mar- 
ried Lucretia Borgia, was the patron of Ariosto. 
Ill the time of Errole II., 1536, Calvin sought 
refuge here with the Duchess, the daughter of 
Louis XII., till he was driven away by the Inqui- 
sition. Upon the death, without issue, of Alfonso 
II., who shut up Trisso in the madhouse, Ferrara 
was taken possession of by Clement VIII , lft98 ; 
A change so unfavourable that its population 
l^radually fell from 60,000 to 20,000. 

The author of the "Diary of an Invalid" des- 
patches Ferrara in few words, an "old town 
where there is nothing worth seeing." But this 
is the hasty opinion of a sleepy traveller. 

The chief place is the Piazza AHostea in Corso di 

Porta Mare, named after the poet whose column 

stands here. He was not a native, though his father 

was. After ten years' labour he produced his great 

i>oem, Orlando Furioso, in forty cantos, dedicated to 

^Ja s-eacroua patron, Cardinal IppoUtod'Este. The 

J^f^^^aJ, Jjowerer, was a soldier, with iittle taste 

'orpoetiy, and ufter reading it, Mked where he 



had "picked up so many absurd stories." Duke 
Alfonso made up for this, treating the poet so 
bountifully that he was able to build himself a house 
opposite St. Benedetto's Church The garden is 
gone, but the house is still shown, as well as his 
father's house, called Casa degli Ariosti. 

The* Cathedral^ in Piazza del M create, is a Greek 
cross, marked by a campanile of red marble. It 
was begun in 1135, and is a mixture of the Gothic- 
Byzantine, or Romanesque and Italian. The 
fafade is plain below, but the upper part is filled 
in with round Gothic arches, and other ornaments 
of a harmonious and pleasing character, and 
includes reliefs of the same and later dates ; such 
as the Passion; Last Judgment, with Hell and 
Heaven (».«., Abraham's Bosom); the Seven Capital 
Sms, Ac. Notice also an antique bust by N. da Pisa, 
which is reverenced as a Madonna, above the side 
door on the left; and a statue.of Albert d'Este on a 
pilgrimage to Rome. In the interior, which is 
modernised, are Garofalo's Madoima on a Throne, 
8S. Peter and Paul, and the Assumption ; Bastia- 
nino's Last Judgment, with portraits of many of 
his acquaintancea in it, including a woman .who 
refused to marry him, and who is put in hell for 
a punishment; C. Tura's Annunciation, and St. 
George; Dossi's tomb of Urban III.; tomb of Clem- 
ent XI ; and C. Tura's cnrious series of miniatures 
In the twenty-three misj^als of the choirs. An 
ancient altar, near Francia's Coronation of the 
Virgin, is adorned with bronze statues by Biondelli 
and Marescotti Some parts of the choir are of 
the last centur(\ An echo repeats 20 times. 

S. FrancfKO Church, near the Giovecca, founded 
by Ercole I., 1498, contains Garofalo's Betrayal of 
Christ, a Madonna and Saints, the Holy Family, 
Resurrection of Lazarus, and his Massacre of the 
Innocents; Ortolano's Holy Family; with others 
by Monlo and Scarsellbio; also various tombs of 
the Este family, and that of Pigna who was 
Tasso's rival. Here also is a good echo which 
repeats seventeen (or sixteen) times. 

The Church of 8. Benedetto was attached to the 
Benedicthie Convent, now used as a military 
barrack. It is a fine building, deserving attention; 
rebuilt 1593, in place of the old one in which 
Ariosto was buried, 1533. For the new church, a 
handsome monument of the poet was prepared by 
his pupil, A. Morti, and placed on the right of the 
altar, over his remains. In 1612, these were moved 
to a more magnificent tomb, raiscl by his grand- 
nephew, on the left side of the altar. This was 
moved, in 1801, to the Studio Pubblico. There 
are frescoes in the barrack, by D. Dossi (the 
Crucifixion), Garofalo, Scarsellino (Martyrdom 
of St. Catherine), P. Veronese, Ac, with O. 
Cremonesi's St. Mark. There is also Garofalo*8 
Paradise in which a portrait of the poet Ariosto 
is introduced above the choir of angels. 

8. Paolo. Paintings by E. Grand! , Bonone, 
Scarsellino (the Holy Ghost), ain^ others; with 
monuments of G. B. Dossi, Bastamolo, and A. 
Montecatino; the last being the work of A. 
VlcentVno. 



Aoute 20.] 



FEBBJL&A— M3HU&CMB8} PALACES. 



91 



8. Domenico^ near the Castello. Here are carved 
^ffig^es in the front; good painthigs, by Garofalo 
(St. Peter-Martyr), Bononi, and other native 
masters; and the monument of G. Calcagnini, a 
learned man of the sixteenth centory. 

Santa Maria del Vado, built as far back as 1171, 
is the oldest church here, and has some quaint 
carvings on its front. It is full of paintings, among 
which are Bononi's Miracle of the Host, Crowning 
of the Virgin, Ac; and a copy of D. Dossils John 
the Divhie, and the Whore of Babylon. The latter 
was painted naked, but has been decently dressed 
by the care of some scrupulous Bolognese artist. 
Al«o» D. Panetti's Visitation; P. Vecchlo's Christ 
and the Tribute Money; Carpi's Miracles of St. 
Anthony; and N. Caffaccio's Death of St. Mary. 
On the picture of Justice and Force, is the enigma 
of Alex. Guarini, in Latin, which no person has 
hitherto made out. The sacrioty contains Panetti's 
Annunciation, and a Flight into Egypt by Sea. 
There are tombs of the painters, Garofalo, Ortolano, 
Bonone, Bastianino, and Dielai; and of the poets, 
T. V. StrozEi, and his son Ercole, a branch of the 
great Florentine houite of that name, which settled 
here in the fifteenth century. Ercole, the best 
poet of the two, and a friend of Ariosto, was killed 
one night by twenty-two stabs. His widow, a 
poetess, wrote a sonnet to his memory. 

8. Spirito. Garofaio's fresco of the Last Supper, 
In the refectory of the convent adjoining. 

8. Andrea^ near the Montegnone Promenade. In 
thjDchoirisGarofalo'sMadonna andSaints; painted, 
some say, under the direction of Raphael. 

8. Giorgio, in the south-west comer of Ferrara. 
Here Eug^nius IV. called a Council to effect a 
union between the Eastern and Western Churches, 
in 1438. Cosmo, or Cosimo Tura, the painter, is 
buried at the entrance of the campanile. 

8anta Maria delta Consofazivne, with an epitaph 
composed by E. Bentivoglio, for his daughter Julia, 
a child of four years. 

The Campo Santo Church was founded by Borso 
d^Este, first Duke of Ferrara, and was designed 
by Sansovino. There are twelve chapels, contahi- 
Ing the Mysteries, by N. Roselli, besides paintings 
by Bastianino (a St. Christopher), Dielai, &c. 
Several old tombs, worth notice, are in the grave- 
yard (Campo Santo) of the old Certosa Convent, 
Uieluding that of Garofalo, with Canova*s bust of 
Ckrant Cicognaro. 

In that of // Oesu, is the tomb of Alfonso's second 
Duchess, Barbara. Other churches are those of 

8, Maurelio^ or the Cappucini Church, and De' 
Teatiniy which has Guercino's Presentation. 

♦The Castello, or Palace of the old Dukes of 
Ferrara, In the Giovecca, sometime the seat of the 
Papal Delegote, is a large, brick, moated castle, with 
angular turrets, in the feudal style. There are 
here, though in a partly decayed condition, works 
te oU and fresco of the brothers Dossi; such as the 
Aurora and the Bacchanals, of D. Dossi; besides 
. other paintings. At the foot of the Lion's Tower, 
In the dungeons under this c/iAoibcr, Parislna and 



Ugo, or Hugh, were executed on the night of Slst 
March, 1405, and buried in St.Francesco's Cemetery. 
"Ferrara," says Byron, "is much decayed and 
depopulated, but the castle still exists entire, and I 
saw the court where they were beheaded." Pari- 
sina's room is shown. Some of the oldest buildings 
surround this palace. 

The Town Hall, or Palazzo del Municipio, near 
the Castello, has a fortified look, and is the place 
where the Accademia Ariostea holds its sittings. 

Ateneo Civico^ containing the *Pinacoteca, or 
Picture Gallery, is in the old Palazzo Ercole- 
Villa (1403), or House of the Diamond (Dia- 
mante) as it is called, from the diamond-shaped 
stones in its front. The paintings have been 
collected from the churches, and are in eight 
rooms. Among them are specimens of the Ferrara 
school of artists, including their chief, *Oarofalo^ 
viz., his Old and New Testament; Mount of Olives; 
Descent of the Holy Spirit; Resurrection ; Adoration 
of the Magi; and Christ in the Garden. His 
Madonna and Child, painted as an altar-piece for 
the suppressed Convent of S. Guglielmo. is in the 
National Gallerv. His real name was Tisio, but 
he is called Garofalo from the gillyflower or mark 
by which his pictures are known. C. Bononi's 
Marriage of Cana; P. Vecchio's Tribute Money; 
Tintoretto's Virgin of the Rosary; D. Dossi's 
Resurrection; Guercino's St. Bruno; Mazzolino's 
Adoration; A. Carracci's Manna in the Desert; 
E. Grandi's Adoration of the Magi; l>. Dossi's 
Madonna and Child Enthroned, with Saints, a 
large picture, said to be his master-piece; C. Tura'a 
portrait of a Cardinal. 

* Palazzo Schifanoja, or Scandiana, near S. An- 
drea's Church, rebuilt on the site of one burnt in 
1469 by Duke Ercole, was decorated with C. Tura's 
frescoes, illustrative of the achievements of Borso, 
the duke's brother, which were recovered from the 
whitewash in 1840. It is now a Deaf and Dumb 
School. 

Palazzo Costabili.^liere is C. Tura's St. George 
and the Annunciatioii, painted in 1 4 69 for the organ 
dome of the Cathedral, and reputed to be his mas- 
ter-piece. His portrait of T. Strozzi the poet, is 
at the Palazzo Strozzi. Palazzo Roverella, now 
Casino dei Negocianti, near the Hospital, was built 
in 1508. Palazzo BevUacqua has a good collection 
of paintings, &c. Palazzo Mazza, paintings by 
Garofalo and D. Dossi. Palazzo dei Lconi (C!ount 
Prosper!) has a fine portal by B. Peruzzi. One • 
marble palnce w^as Lucretia Borgia's. 

The (Chamber of Commerce is at Palazzo della 
Rayione, a Gothic brick pile, in Piazza del Mercato, 
near the Duomo. 

A *Studio Pubblico, or Lyceum, which replaces 
the old university, comprises faculties of medicine 
and jurisprudence, and about 100 students. In the 
portico are several classical inscriptions and bas- 
reliefs, a cypher or grave-stone of one P. Publius, 
and a large sarcophagus dedicated by Aux«]<5c». 
Eutychia to her li^a\i«a^«L^^x\«sv\i^Xi>«!<^- "^^ 
large awA x«\M«Jo\^\Vat«x^>a^«B. ^^'«^\^^^^. 



1M.O0O TolDmH iinil 1,000 MSB., »ma u o1 
cslcbiitles. lnc!udlnE Cardinal IppoLilo d' 



Ueiperiii jncet Mc Arioslua a Indls." Hue an 
hJs books, WDOdm ehnlr, Ink&tand, and tho US- o 
hl9 poonis — an kmpetfect copy, WADItn^ the lltio 

graph. Tilth "Vido e TenBto, IS Oingiio, 178a,' 

Amou? the other kit amy treaimrpa are Cardlna 
BentlToello's books, beqnwthcd in IISDi scorn 

Grerk pallmpHtta (f tf.. parclimenta written orei 
afrcBh) of Oro^ory Nazlnnxen, ChryaoAtom, Ac- 
■ntlptunarlaa, or anlhem book^ with mhilatnrea o 

unodlteit sonnett composed by him In his confine 

deik, and the US. of Ouarlnl'a PaiUr Fido, m 
Fitltbful Shepherd. 



1*1 lister, the Frincesi Elaonora. 



y, 1884. to Argante 



CODHnaablO, near tho sea (popnlallon. 8,000), 



Glorelo 18 | Bolopia 3H 

a {StaD Population, I,40K. 



From S. Pletro In CMOle (Stat), ■ dlltgeu 



ai the Church, or Galerla, a> It ia alyled by hi 

CUMlUa^OrelBt&t.}, on the NaTlgUo, I 

BOLOOITA (Stat.), 



t'^b?™« P"p" 
liandhtre, "^ 



Here Ih irrolo and pabtlghed many of hli tmaller 
' Doeiiual and phllowpblcal vorkA. and waa tlilted 
'by Uontalene, and Aldo, the printer. Inonoof his 

jttoon, be can are Iho tower of tho palace whare 
XAuora dn-elJn" which may help to fix tho ctaet 
^M^BB o/A* dmiUng^place darioB ""i* unhappy 



1: (mlt, and the OlnoCII dl Fallon*, ■ 
e> honi*I\n4tal MlS Ramo. 



DOI.OON*— «KUftCHXa . 



•au«r' O^KU 0/ XoMU.— Two Leuilns Towen. 
niuia Comnniile, Itucmio, S. Pmmnlo. S. 
DMHnlcd, B. Glscomo Mninsliirc. B. Bwfiinii, 

.iKodauiln dolle lUDe Ani. ind a niic Cuiapi^ 
SMlto— the lait oatiUc tlio Cocti a'linlH. 
The n«of BoLo^a tln^fi, vrhich ti^ure In th* 

vmi to tba Bnl«nniie nilunl of |i>Jnt«ra, vli. :— 
)t die flKMOtta CDiiturr-M. Zomn, Fmrclo. biuI 

'— lhin«iidilno.tial<ln.Alhiiua, 



li, OMta i •ixlHntb » 



F. Molo, 



Thli 



!hlaluv^ vaollliy.ii 



I city, w 



ii dlchkdliitothnaiip 
ulled mpectl'dy I^VHiiIe. or CBiili Ponfiiti!, ur 
•nn; and lleiii«<iinin. or Hnlh. 
Ths Cutlieilrsl, BmUIcb. Leiiulur TovTuri, Pd- 

TI> Uge Bu<l. Hhkh ron whI and wos!,. and 
■[« travimed liy nuirtlmr uuin llKiruUKlifara 
rnnuloc nonh and aauUi froin Purta aallioni 
■nd Hontngnuola, noni tlia Ralloay Slallon, to 
Porta d'Aaugllo. tloiiiagimula la a Utly, aiiBn 



nelhesDinouIPalluiie. Uaii 
rinilinR ttroet A are idiailod by £ 
fa nxilul [ur slKlter, giro tl 



Boncn la aided wttb tbe Bcnato and tanaa. Ibe Gun- 
anl. who died hero of hli wouiiila, after bia dofeai 
at Umlna. On an Ixland In the Rbmue (uoo the 
1tena).[»uriniIe><IM<inl.nDartbe BorKO faiilgale. 
Antony. Octsviii s (afwrwanl" Aaicu*tD*}, Bud Lrpl. 
dna, concluded iIid S "unnl Triouivlnilo. Uurliit 

npaUle, Ir adnpicd -'Ub«taa"furluuiuito,aiiHl 
tou tbe Ouolpb tli\e luralnii "■- "■' — ■■ 

I«/av« 1I|*Ia wa* Willi IfiUd 



n llttlo w 



-. In 

aiilta." It Iwcama aulijcci 

TiilDtlon. In IMS li Brmly ndali'd 
rIanaundiT Wedon and Un;anteld. In 
>dthDBr>topp»rtunlt>-, Diithodspartara 



Pripal Lega 
ol.?9,im on 



Fere guided by tl 
Khter at Mural, 11 
Prime Mlnlal^r.ai 
la l^Jpo1^ nItoTwan 



a parents liy tho 

t waa ImirtLwil, Hi 
mnnan ••! 1>ad cba 



Pinie iclll 



a lm]>rlaoncil In IheTorrlime, a i 
rer Dt tb« PaUini det Qorarg 



faifighk, Zainbecurrk, Mezwfanll,. 



pV.trHm" 



laiwmi Ivlcli Totri /> 
•i«a*nff Itowwj, 111 

KDTalleiMnlliellmca 
:a factory c: " 
•nxtod lltn. 



ircelB, ai 



Cuor fMt tmi 
b^ 4W alrpa, i 



nllRt] 



be llmca of Ihe rqiahUe, and looklni 
tlnnfya. Ono, eallod TornAriitelU, 
by Ihe Ailndll rninlly, la a plain 
an, alaat ^30 feet hluh, indlHlar 
n the perpeiiiliovlaF. It la aaoaDdad 

no Anennlnea, Ae. Tlio ntlier, Ttirt 
or la Utixa. built by tbe Ouriaandl, 
inEh only 140 or IM loet 1il(b. hiHna ai 



. Tbat IhD fuelliiatlDii 



Ihe xoonluK Olant Aiitimi. Tba 

I> eauaod by Iho allciiilne of tbe earth hi'luw. It the 
moat natural aupjioilllins as Ihe tl<n1ier and at 

Tbe tiro dt- Xfi-ranH, or ralaiio della Her 
Oothlo itylo, ntid railiired In INau [or a Chnnibor 



f Cenni 



lOBgiao 



1 Klttn V 



s, (on 



A ■Co* iJiT.'a.'e" 



ABXDBHAW'S WALT. 



■tn oHIa, by N. dclk 
iBlgnert for Gre([Oi 



« Room; A^ Lombjtrdo^ : 



Th« Portlrt it' I 



randBiafaopA^lini' 
~t ii.'Pf*a und tho Vlrifin 



a Ileiul Christ : 
ecnunorvhlcii w» 






byA. Vlncenil, In 
re<t long, anil 930 



ieu/Jll»niII.,»tleb 



[Section 1. 

ire by M. Tribolo ind 
ii1*«il.t. Inildesn 
le, inithe Aiiiinnoli- 

lentVII. TheiDlddla 
1 cliaMl on rigdt-A. 

'l. Anlhonypfl'iidui 

tbon;. End D[ cbgir— Frnnceichlnl'i latfe fresco. 
l«tD— Fumlgluw'a Bt. Kveli! iuhI Ihe XtriUm 
Mm, traced by Cunliil, ISU, the gnoown arhlck 
throin (liethadow minKWicetblffh. lllh— L. 

phW. Wife, by PropuriU d«' BomAii which tb« 

lhctwH(thceiitury,iindl>inPiiiiiiGoLil(oi"hich 
cOQtaliia ■ coioniiade and the two old lumbi of 
R. pAHfsglerl and Iba Foicherul ramlly. of iha 

TheThuKh wu'rd>D[]t In the last cenlury, « 



of cTenli In the Sslnt'i life, art b* Nloalll 
u. mi; igattt of finlnu, br Nlecolb detl- 
\iea; two Kneeling Angela, by U. Angela; 

1S3». The fresco o( 'SI. Donjtnlc In Paradlae, 

isbj'Ontdo;8I.I)oinlnleBnmlngHortilcalBM>k«, 
byL.Spndo; IheRcnoredCblld.byTlBriul. lOIb— 



ailonofiheMagl. IBtbeh 



SaertMy undCloliler— f^Spada'sE 



Boal« 30.] BOUIOIIA— CHDXOBBi. 

S. BarlolimmtB M Pa-la RaKgtiima. new 



7th— Msityrdora or 9. BoohoiomH.. hy Frtiio 
BbtnL IKlh— Tiarlni'sS. AnUionyo(P»diui. 
a. BarultmBm di Brno, built 1TS3. Amstl 



«. CiciUa. « rnniill chnrch, rotoreil IMt, In PU» 
del Twtrai bDllt IISI, snd rcnmrluhlB tor tbt 
BliiefrucoeBoftbeLireafSt.C*El11a.b7P.FraiKiii 
■ndhlIp□pl1^L.C(ltln.0.Francla,Chl<><la^ala.JIc. 

COrptu AiintfnV, ar Sania Co/aflna. nrylM Za 

Ilia Lonl'i Suppw- ""be hl(tli nltar. In ime of 
the chepeli, Chrtrt Appesrlng lo Iho Virsln and 

AKeuiion.Bttbehtgliallu'; O. Ftancli's Nativity 
Md the HsEl. 

j' Cnnom Hoom, or Dogaoi. It hH lui ol.l 



cumpuille 
o(T«n«i> 



» Fllumaiilu ; 1>eininl3«7.T>l11i 
llnic, addeil 14ST. It conlaint II 



Chspel— Prancta'i 
nllefibyN.der- 

elnl-a BlKlmiui 
Vinin and Snli 



H GngoriB. In Blmdn Pogirtale. Hen 



I piilnllniri. D.CalTiicH'iiSt.Gngorr.i 

prdB.n«wlhePorlii 9. Vlt«l», belonB«t 
in Aiylnni. I.. Ciirnicef" 81. CubMin 
and hl> HartyrdoiD of S. Unnla; J 






Snnla Itaria i/aggUa-e. Bu-rell*f ot tbe I 
of tbD Virgin, by A. Lonibardo. Inacrlplj' 
Buiiparle Ohliliert. 



a. UalHa. n 


"s. Hyactn 


■rx 


a. NUmiidt 


S.Frlki. At 


.Carrs 



v\ Bt. Fau]. Tnd cha^iel— 1 



iCredl. Ocncril of Ihe' Order? t^intk 

—I '3' V"\°^ f "" '^' "' "'""y- 



Tempi* of Ida. Enoh chapel bna a imrticBlar iuiuh ( 

oorrtdors and paiuaire". 1« cbapoY-Del Cn- 
ctfiaaoi haawallpalnllnpioflbeCnielflitlon, ind 
—Cliapol of S. QlalUina If Uanil. 3rd— 9. S«[»l- 

clrcle otpllKn, li 

portl|iB a dome. From 






aa. VOak td itria/ia-.'KB.- 



vt«nd Id IBIl. ln<) ohapel— TlnrliirR Fllglit Into 
j( the Virgin. 
Some uihcr charchci north iioil<» mre onulds 

■ Aaimiiiialit, mtKlrlri Pui-tD d'AiFKllii. belong! to 



■ Bytantlne atyle: ■ttrllililed i 
uke, and brought fmni GoAMantli 



•a. ifiehile 


Ji.»«™,i»a 


Pons 




hill, 11 nllflc 






and putly eoi 


verted 


.di>rl»aiii 


7W. Thi vi 


.part 


>.■;>[ the C 


tf dinid l^nK, vfhfch 



1 funlcnUr toil- 
>ria CuntgllDne, 



I* Oalkrfi. or'/HnarBUca, 









la of tha moot noticeable plt.^,- ,„_ 
•TiBK — AHmil'i VlrKin Entbroned, wUb 
hcrinc uhI at. U. Mtudlalcnr} ; Baptlun 
lat. flusnUui'i Rt. William of Aqnilalne. 

niLBiulullierwDIli". Ajimtlnii " " "" 

ruDUnhm of St. Jerome; 1 






'•'rancla, Aft. Alluring 

'' of tbo BarBfUlnl 

O. CavB- 






)U-i St, Ulchael, tbe Archueel- 



E»s:s 



rnllsry. Tlrno- 
Rnp&ael'K *SI. 

Osllo 



1 Bt. Catherine 'of 

Siena. CnUiurine Vlgrl'i {called La Sanu) Uartj^r- 
dimi of St. Unula. L>omenicliLno'fl 'Martyrdom 
of St.AgneHi •Uadonna of the Bouif; Martyr- 



cy. lijteii 
•ard 



t. for Gler 
aftoroarda cnnunlwd). Ellzahelh 
Anthony of " " ' "' 






MaUmalt. The 
!r artldo, foiuill 



ape l>rlaw) li a dat library of 200.(100 booka ani 
SS. The tLtruHui andqnltlH ihoold by a 



lean u old oa 1 llv. Olid U the oliloet in Italy after 
that g[ Salerno. It wa> il flnt Hated in the old 
Arelifjiitaito, behind 81. Telronio Chnrch— an 



eighteenth centur)-; and Clotilda TnmbronI, ■ 



lu i;h Ihe Uiil 
afteronrdt transto 

- I, nriidiially Ulit li* 1 

ildod by 'Trlachlnl. It n 

. J .- -. mtj, j^^ 

iirHit iioqilM fiHurded 1«U. awl 
a Cllnloal HOKpltal. (oundal ITOG, both near 
at hand. Heit Mt IreKoaa by P. Tlbaldl uul 
SlocoHi dell' AJiM*, «i»loTii\s*\ "■- —"--■■- 
the iihHotopMMl toK.ii'UBnW 
of BhBlteihoiT, "oa otaaeiiw 



. DuDatii, 'nilKiiially Eolit 

conrt added h - -^ " 
1,400 i4udenti • 



Bouta 20.] , 

g.rden; »lio 1 llliwry Willi 1 
•,000 MSB., (oiirdeil by Bciiert 
ewry dBy, eiwpl Sninlay. T 
iQBlcll rfnseum It In ■ nrieht- 
Tbe attU lln);ulit, Ciraine 
■t Bdlogiia. 1IT4. (be »ii of a c 
llbrnrUn b«tore hti remoml 1c 
my lunnoagc" fluaitly, and n 
blniiell In levaitf-clprht. InE 
he •poke not on]y good EiiglLih. 

.nd Slukeapenrrt anillhtntu: 



BOLOO K A — 7 Al JlCB R. 



, nnil Bagnacnvallo'i C] cm 



Citnitti, iru rerlvn 



Somlani. ted domino domns." II wbi built for 
bint In IMS. 

fo(a«ff Alirr^ll. In V)« di SarapiBS^ built Id 
pilmt AHobraHii, In glrndu GntllerB, rebuilt 



Papal ■nthoHtlei 
to MJ that B iti 
Crawford," but k 



9 folloirlng Myle: "Ajc, 



ff:«; 



toTdiMul. mlddllnsi eyw, grey and llltlr: nue, 
hisi monlb. middling; llpt. thick; beard, brown ; 
nHWUChn, light; vtiigc, oval; eomiilexlun.nalei 
haad link between the broad ahouldeni back. 

qOMtlon wa» Prince Loaii Napoleon, afterwards 
amperoT, who bad Jurt oBcaped fnin Ilnm. 

•Pa!aia Bnilmpia, In Via d'AiCKlio. butll, It 
I* lald. by itraiiiaiiitno. wllb n liundaiinc [tout ol 
HtBumii-thaacd «(one«, mid a Huo cotirt. 

'^taiMUB BcBiiBoglia. a bandwnie bulldlni li 



Pataae Biaoi. or FaOaTitinf. in Via 8. Btrf. 
fSibnIltby Ambroslnl. 

m'aidi /'aro. In Via Msnnml. facing 
ladenna dl Oalllcra. hai palntinga and Irei 
y Iho Cnrraccl. Albanl, B. Ccsl, *c. 

,. Carraccl. 

Palazto Uatnmi-aaldolti, In Via S. Dor 
ullt by TIbaldl. in I»7T, hai a fine frcic 
ioiniilu. and Rerans. by tbe Catraccl. 

Palauo eralanl. In Via MaMlni, wnii bull 

Palaao Uatcetii-Uedlri, In Via Zimbonl, a 
Pa^aiift Ualtrni-Cantpfffgi, li 



luaom 


tapeM^ 


byLueMof Leydoi.Klv, 


n hy 


Hont>- V 




dinal Cafflpegglo, wh™ I 


%fii 


Lcsacel] 


Engloni 






JWuii 




cM, faring S. SaWatore. 
It hni frewoei by L. Car 




,m b} 


TlbaldL 


accl 


uid Gu 


ao. 






i-oroi 


■ Pedrazii 


or Fanlniil. In Via S. Vltale. 


^gl'd" 




dnlen. b,AiHl.MarchM 


baa 


•rala 


i'l^'S; 


n Via dl CaatlEllone. a m 


chl- 


colntcd 


rick pile, 






jmllco 


ud bandio 






"^Faliai 


if^K* 


Borchi, near the IHiomo. 


bnllt 


.yVlgn 


la. (or Bo chl, tho founder of the Aea 


eniy 


" AJtor^toBBH/ 




Bta- 


one. b 


III by T. 


iachinl, has old frucoc 


by 




1, TIbaldl, 






*PaSiB 


Sampial. or Zamptrrl, In Via Ma 


zinl, 


ijis fino 


wall pain 


iwant IhobWoryof Ho 




n are 




the firat—Bntllc with Ju 




.y 1^ (. 




econd-Herculca lunmcl 


d by 


Vlituo, 


bv An. 


Carraccli third- 11 crcolM 


and 


Alia.. y"Air, C 


rracrl; (ouHli— Hercnlei 






l«Guen 








gth, 








P«f« 


1*0 Ftolo, 




Mo 


Uotauicc 


.forlectn 


res on agriculture, baa fre 




by I. da 


luiola. 






I-alai 


oZambtta 


rrt, ncH S. Paolo. In Ih 




de' Cnrb 




rich gallery It nearly al 


Aif 



The ZKta, or Mint, 






taA, Aonte 



I1lne^ 4.100 trxt bigh, bj diligence, 

g A diimal ipQt, with • wiBtched inn ( 
r-nilnea '^""'^ ""} t'"*J •>' Wty c 

to La PorrellB Battui; ttieno'o 
IB F»B toPliIoiH, oil tbs Legborn IDC 
•r as inllM la All to Plorence. TUi 
od by the Anitrlnni. 
m BolOSna (Btat.) tti« lUtloni »i 
HUM. I 

iPanlgali ... » Rlola 

Mcblo ^ PornitU 



Borga dl Faninle (Btkt.) 

OftBBlMDlllO (^fc) PopIlliItlOII, l.OM. Nu 
ths •Ite of » Prsnoh Tictorj over Pope Jnllns II 

Florontines. liy the !>nie of Mllin, llM.^At' " 
BaaaO (Stat >, tbe llaA hci^lag to iKsend tt 

d«encnltlng«, Ac.lo 
Harzabotto (Stat), vbors are lemBlni of ■ 

VersatO {Stat.) Haw the valley of Ibe rlvi 
opens. BlOla (Stat) Oa the led tbe pobIib i 
Monte O'Dia and H^ale VI^h. 

■■a(8tat.) A Tillage (pop., 8,eTS), in 



Heo« thTll 



it high. The road 



PlltOja, or PistOta (SUt), wbsnce It li II 
miiea w riorence. (Bee RouK H). 

HrOTJTB S0. 
Bologna to CaEteiBoiiwiiege(forlUTeima), 

mmtiit , aHQAiicona. 
By ra«, ue luJlcB. In a to 8 hoiiH. Th It is part 



Qnedema I0( 

Caatel S. Flatro IS 



Caatol B. Fletro (Stat), i 
ImolA (Stat,;, on the alU 



Castel BoloniMe (Stat.), "here the Bolecsa 
Bnipbllc erected a lortreu In 1381). 
[Here a branch railway tung off to RaTenoa, W[ 



Logo „ gi Godo IS 

BagnacBTallo ll| | BaTenna M 



Route 22.] 

bailt by the Bologneae. On the left is Fattipmano, 
the birth-place of Monti, the poet, and Corelli, the 
masician. 

BagnacavallO (Stat.) The old TihcHacum, 
and birthplaoe of the painter Ramenghi, who is 
known by the name of Bagnacavallo. 

Between this and Ravenna we pass Rnssl (Stftt.) 
(population, 7,569). the native town of Farini, one 
of the leading Italian patriots, of the school of 
Cavour. He joined in the insurrectionary move- 
ment of 1831, at Bologna, in which Louis Napoleon 
and his brother toolc part. He afterwards became 
tutor in Jerome Bonaparte's family, and a member 
of the Roman Parliament. He was the intimate 
friend of Carour; was appointed Dictator of 
Parma and Modena, and eventually became Prime 
Minister. 



POBRETTA, IBIOLA, RAVENNA — TOMB OF DANTE. 



99 



ti 



BAVfiNNA (Stat) 
Rav«uia la Antica," or the ancient. 



Statue of Farini in front of the Railway Station. 

Population, 62,000. 

HoUU: La Spada; Grand Hotel Byron. 

• •C»i?^O^tto/iVb«<j«.— Dante's Tomb; Byron's 
House; Cathedral and Baptistery; S. Apollinare 
Nuovo; S. Giovanni Evang. ; SS. Nazario e Gelso; 
Theodosius Palace; Mausoleum of Thcodosius; 
8. Apollinare in Classe ; Pine Forest. 
■ Ravenna, the seat of an archbishop, became in 
A.D. 402, the seat of the Empire of the West, at 
wtdch Honorius I., Valentinianus IIL, and other 
Emperors resided after deserting Rome . Hence this 
province came to be called Romania or Rwnagna^ 
a name It still bears. Theodoric, the Goth, or Great, 
upon his defeat of Odoacer hard by, in 498, made 
it the capital of hisi kingdom, and in Justinian's 
time, his great general, Narses, fixed the seat of 
the Exarchate here. In 754, Pepin gave it to the 
Pope. As early as the time of Augustus it was 
noted as one of the two great ports of the Roman 
Empire, and a starting place for the East; but 
owing to the gradual accumulation of mud and 
sand brought down by the Po, along this side of 
the Adriatic, it is now full miles from the sea, 
and of course in a state of decay. 

It stands near the Rivers Ronco and Montone, in 
the midst of a wide marshy plain, covered with 
ruins, and divided from the sea by the famous 
i*»*ii«^a, or pine foresis, 15 miles long, which have 
been celebrated by Dante (whose tomb is here), 
Dryden, and Byron. These pines served to m:ike 
piles for the foundation of the early city, and also 
to build vessels for its navy. Through its con- 
nection with the East, Ravenna is more Greek- 
built than any other Italian citv, containing, next 
to Rome, a greater quantity of marbles, mosaics, 
4eOm from Greece and Africa, in its churches and 
buildings. One-half of the space within the walls 
la garden ground. 

There are five or six Gates— Porta Serrata, built 
by the Venetians, on the north, near the remains 
of their citadel (1457) and of Tbeodoric't Tomb; 
Port* AlberoDi (1789)^ <m the east, towsrdi t^ye 



* Pineta and the sea; Porta Nuova (165S), on tho 
south ; Porta Sisi (1568), near this, and also on the 
south; Porta Adriana (1585), on the west, adjoin- 
ing a suburb on this side. Here was the Porte 
Aurea, of which only a fragment remains belonging 
to a wall built by Tiberius. 

. From Porta Serrata, a wide street runs 
through tlio town to Porta Nuova, which leads 
out to Pontc Nuovo, on the Ronco and Montone, 
and to S. Apollinare, on the site of Classis, the 
old port. Anaviglio or canal, of 7 miles, was cut 
in 1737 to the new port. The Porta Sisi leads on' 
past the tomb of Gaston de Foix. 

The Piazta yitt Emanuele, the largest open place, 
has statues of SS. Apollinaris and Yitale on two 
pillars, erected by the Venetians, 1483, with bas- 
reliefs by P. Lomhardo. There is also a statue of 
Clement XII., and a portico of eight tall columns, 
which belonged to a temple of Hercules, facing the 
Oovtrnativo. The Town Hall or Palazzo Munici- 
pale, where the archives are placed, is also here. 
Near this Piazza is the Torre del Pubblieo, a square 
Brick tower of the eleventh century, which leans 
like those at Bologna. 

The Piazza Byron has a bronze statue of Al exander 
VII., 1675. In the Piazza del Duomois a statue 
of the Virgin, 1659 ; and in the Piazzetta Alighieri, 
a column to Cardinal Gactani, 1609, whose crest 
was an eagle; as was ihat of the Polenta family, 
which long ruled here. 

* Tomb of Dante, adjoining the church of S. 
Francesco, not far from Byron's House (see below). 
The great Italian poet died here 14th September, 
1321, an exile from his " ungrateful Florence," and 
under the protection of Guide da Polenta. Lord of 
Ravenna. The mausoleum, designed by P. lom- 
hardo, was erected 1481, !)y the Podesta, Bernardo 
Bembo, and restored 1780, by Cardinal V. Gon- 
zaga It is a little domed temple, "more neat 
than solemn," with his bust, inscriptions, and other 
ornaments Ne:ir here is a small couit, containing 
a number of very old Christian sarcophagi. 

* Byron's Hovse.(inyi& G.Mnzzini). is marked by * 
an inscription stating that he entered it lOtii June, 
1819. He lived here, and at the house of Countess 
Guiccioli till November, 1821, involving himself 
and the lady's connecticms with the secret societies 
in plots against tho Papal Govenimmt. They 
were so 8cri»m»ly committed that her family was 
exiled from Ravenna, and took refuge in Tuscany, 
whither he followed them. 

Ravenna has two perfect basilicas, both dedicated 
to St. Apollinaris, and some round buildings, as 
St. Vitale, <fec, all exemplifying the Romanesque 
style. 

The • Cathedral or Duomo, a short distance west of 
Dante's Tomb. Rebuilt 1734-49, by Bnonamici, out 
of the stones of one founded by ^^t. Ursus, or Orso, 
in the fourth century, of which the only remnant is a 
round slender campanile of the eighth ornUvi^ <^'«fxv- 
tury. Ithadfiveai«>l«.'& %raaiA-^s5Rss4k^\'<Qsiss.^^''««^ 

1 Vtiep«\aViu«»w^Q^^J^ft«f^Vt^«««^'=*^^'^^*^^ 



100 



BRADSUAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



Manna, and Elijah Fed by Ravens ; Bonone's Bel- 
Rhazzar's Feast and Camucclni's St. Ursas. There 
is also an ancient silver cmcifix, and St. Maxi- 
niiniairs ivory chair, the latter of the sixth centnry. 

The BaptUtery, close by, is an octagonal relic, 
restored in 451, and supposed to have been built by 
St. Ursus. Two rows of arcades within, one over 
the other, are covered with bas-reliefs; and the 
walls and cupola with mosaic arabesques of the 
fifth century. The front is of porphyry and mar- 
ble : the holy water basin came from a temple of 
Jupiter. 

The Palazzo AreiveKOvile or Archbishop's Palace, 
has a Chapel, built 449 by St. Peter Chrysolo^s, 
covered with mosaics and marble ; .also a library 
pf MSS., and collections of inscriptions, ^. 

Santa Agata, near Porta Sisi, a primitive-looking 
church, first built 417, withtliree aisles and beauti- 
ful marble pillars. 

*S. ApoUinare Nuovo, in the Corso Garibaldi, 
isa regular basilica,dedicated to St. Martin (atfirst) 
liy Theodoric, a.d. 600, for an Arian Cathedral. 
It has three aisles made by twenty-fonr pillars of 
veined Greek marble from Constantinople; anajfte 
at the end; fourteen rich altars with many tombs ; 
the bishop's seat, and portraits of prelates, &e , in 
the very ancient Mosaics on the walls of the nave, 
dating from 559. Among these are the Adoration 
of the Magi and twenty-two Virgins; the port of 
Classis, with its ships; twenty-five Saints and 
Martyrs adoring Christ; a view of old Ravenna 
and Theoddi ic*8 Patau, the remains of which are 
still seen near this church. 

S. Chiara, in ruins, has wall paintings, said to 
be by Giotto. 

3. DomenicOy to the north-west of Piazza V. 
Bmanuele. A church of the fifth centnry, since 
altered. It has Rondlnelirs Annunciation; also 
L. Longhi's Mysteries of the Rosary, and his Inven- 
tion of the Cross. Longhi is buried here. 

S. Franresco, near Dante's Tomb and Byron's 
House, and a statue of Alexander YII. An old 
church modernised; with twenty-two marble 
columns in the nave. It belonired to the Minorite 
Friars, and Dante was at first burled in it, by the 
Polenta family. Here are carvings by P. Lom- 
bardo. In the Crucifix Chapel ; a Madonna, by S. 
da Imola ; with tombs of Ostaslo da Polenta who 
died a Franciscan monk; and of Enrico Alfierl, 
Gi'neral of the Order; also an urn to Archbishop 
Llberius of the fourth century. 

*8. Oiftvanni Evangelista, near the railway sta- 
tion, rebuilt 16*^3, but founded In 444, by Galla 
Placidla, daughter of The -dosius, in obedience to 
a vow. It has three aisles, divided by twenty-four 
pillars from the first church ; with carvings of the 
thirteenth and fuurtecmh centuries over the diior, 
paintings by F. Longhi, and a fresco by Giotto; 
also an altar of serpentine and porphyry in the 
cryi't. Some of its ancient Mosaics are gone. 

4X Giovanni BattUta, near Porta Serrata, also 
A/u»ded by atiJIa PJacldia 4d6t wa« rebuilt 1688, 
Zzr/ /Ae coJuwDB iff the interior tre mrt ot tbo 
r/s-fnmj cbarch. 



Santa Maria in Cosnudin, close to S. Spirito (gee 
below), was originally a sixth century baptistery 
to that Arlan church ; of an octagon shape, with a 
mosaic (6th century) of the Baptism in the cupola. 

Santa Maria in Pur to, in the Corso, near Port* 
Nuova, rebuilt 1533, out of the stones ofS. Lorenzo 
of Cesarea (another Roman port in this quarter). 
It has an old marble relief of the Madonna, 
P. Glovnne's Martyrdom of St. Mark, and L. 
Longhi's Virgin and Saints. 

8. MieMe in Affridsco, of the sixth' century, 
Is now almost destroyed. 

*SS. Nazario e Celso, or the Mausoleum of QaVa 
Placidin, near Porta Adrlana, was built 488-40, by 
that Empress, for herself. In the shape of a Greek 
cross, 49 feet by 40 feet, under a large cniK>la, 
covered with marble and mosaics. Among these 
are seen the Christian symbols of that age; as, the 
lamb for Christ, birds for departed souls, *c. 
Behind the altar is the large sarcophagus of the 
Empress (450), which at one time held her sitting 
figure, dressed In robes. She was a clever woman, 
born at Constantinople, the daughter of Theodoslus 
the Great. A sarcophagus In i he right transept con- 
tains her brother, Honorius II.; another in the left, 
Constantius, her second hcsband. Her first was 
Alarlc's son, Ataulphus. Two small sarcophagi 
are snld to hold the tutors of her children 

8. Niccolo, near Porta Mamante, founded In 768. 
Here Is the St. Monica of Cesare di Ravenna, a 
native artist. 

S. Bomualdo or C7/aMe,neartheDuomo, Isattachod 
to the College, formerly the Certosa Convent, and 
was built 16J0. Here are Guerclno's St. Romuaid, 
S. Cignanrs S. Benedict, and (In the college) fres- 
coes by L. and F. Longhi. 

8. Spirito or Teodoro, was built 408-526, by 
Theodoric the Great, for the Arlans, and re-namcd 
when taken possession of by the orthodox party ; 
the baptistery being called St. Maria in Cosmedin 
(see above). It has an ancient marble chair. 

*8. Vitale, near Porta Adrlana, was built In 526, 
In the time of the Emperor Justinian, ftc, and 
dedicated to St. Vltalls, who suffered martyrdom 
on the spot. It Is usually cited as the most 
complete specimen of the Byzantine style in 
Italy, and as a copy of St. Sophia's at Constanti- 
nople. Mr. Fergnsson thinks it was meant for a 
copy of the Minerva Medlca, at Rome. It Is an 
octagon crowned by a cup'>la, resting on arches, sap- 

Eorted by a double range of granite columns below, 
etween which are some circular recesses. The 
eighth splice opens Into the sanctuary «nd apse; 
and the whole is surrounded by a wall ; so that 
while the outside diameter Is 110 feet, the Inside i5 
only 50 feet. There Is a separate ga*1ery for 
women, round the upper range of pii'ars. The 
windows and arche« are all round-headed. The 
choir is placed across one of the comers outside 
the octagon, like a tangent, with entrances at eadi 
end. The cupola is not made of stone, bat of light 
earthen pots or amphor», like some other baildiofft 
te Italy, ana V« covcrtd with wood 



SonU 22.] 



fc AtBHS A— Ca UhC H E a 



douiof St. VlullB, tfas RfanRliBl* oncl Apsailei, 
Clirlit the nod Bhepherd. Abel end Helehizedek, 

hlenaltsrlaibee-rcllcf fromatcmpl* ot Neptune, 
la aiiUlier Df tbc A|iotbauiis of ADgnuni. In tbs 

leue, iiho illed Ml, l> behind the cburcL 

The •/Woo <^ Thenderie. to called, It In Cons 
OsrlblMl, bDt li only n frngmenl, cooilBtla^ o( ■ 

oW rwldenoe of the Eiimhi. now fronlliig the 

cioH nHemblanco to tlic' Palace of Li'locletUn'of 
tfiemoat richJy (end least claealcally) decoratea 
detail! belonging lo the Gnthic etyles which were 



been raised to Ita present poiitlan. Ite welelit If 

up to the top, where htB sarcophajiu or urn wai 

At (ho Cillvio oftbeCsrthnilaniatS. Remueldo, 
near the Daomo, are the Town Library. Miueum, 

1T1«, b/ Abbe Caonetll. contains about «0,H>« 

bMlUdlBir 

- "-TBloe I 
la ot tha" 



{■aLaCK of THBuDOKIC. 

fCki by the Lonf hi, D. do Voh 



Jn the U<anm \a a fine collection at IlaUon 
naeriptloni, Ac.: one at 'the moot rcmartaMo 



toPonUNnon-onths 



Vlil. (1M6), 
■-(U;«)wlth 
H a MS. ol 

._ _._ iDlnlatnree. 

ArWapliiaH nl the tenth c«ntiU7. 

Imrefnetant tad Btatatry oontaln* 



in Porlo fHort a t: without the walli) 


earth* 


,ue of the old port. Built 1C9«, by B. P 


OneoU, 


..r 11 Peecatore, and rebuilt In the >liteenlh 


MMury. 


It ho. a tall campanile, tbreealide., belwe. 








.by Giotto or pupil* of hli Khool. 




The railway afioaid be taken lo Claiee, 




•S. Apolliaart in Cltuir. on Ihc site (now 
of the Roman port of CIohU. of which tl 




• It the 


Atchblshop, OH the elte'of Apoll.iV tempi 


"tjIS 







hogl of prelalei of the sevenlh and eight ceuturlo, 
and there Is a serlei of lasoval pcrtralta of allt he 

ofpcnltenca performed by hlmlnlOUU. Oneof Iba 

1'tie high altar Is at black and white marble! 
pvrphyry, and Terde-antlco, and tbe pulpit le of 



l^tLrlst and the A:gwiAeSh\ KtA t*'^»^'^ ^ 
Tkeuraib ol Vtte v««m> »■'»■'■ '»'''^:^ 



102 



BRJLD8HAW*S ITALY. 



[Section 1. 



like a ligbthoase. The town of Clauevraa destroyed 
by Lni^randf King of the Lombards, In 728. 

Two miles outside Porta Sisi, close to the Ronco, 
is 

Colonna de' FranceH, or di Oaston de Foix; a 
sqtiarecolimm covered with arabesques andinscrip- 
tioiis, erected in 1557 by President Gesi, in memory 
of the battle of Ravenna, gained on Easter Day, 
11th April, 1:^12, by the French, under Gaston de 
Foix, over the troops of Julius II. and the l^anish 
King. The Chevalier Bayard, Ariosto, Cardinal 
de' Medici (Leo X), and others were present, and 
20,000 men were Icillcd on both sides, including the 
French general, "the hero boy," who was only 
twenty-six. 

The * Plneta, or Pine Forest, to the east of the 
town, 25 miles long. It is full of green, picturesque 
walks, and is otherwise interesting from its anti- 
quity and association with many celebrated names. 
The Vieole del Poeta marks a favourite resort of 
Dante, who speaks of it ("ramo in ramo si 
raccoglie") in his Divine (Comedy. Here Boccaccio 
places the scene of his novel of Nastagio degli 
Onesti, in the Decameron, which Dryden has 
versified in his fable of the Proud Honoria pursued 
by the spectre horseman, Gnido Cavalcantl, 
ancestor of Theodore, who comes to her rescue 
armed with a sapling pine. Byron was never 
tired of riding through its haunted ground. 
It suffered severely during a severe winter, and 
by a fire. 

Garibaldi's wife, Anita, is buried here, in a 
chapel in the middle of the forest, about a mile 
from Marquis Guiccioli's farm. In 1849, after the 
fall of Rome, Garibaldi was making for Venice, 
pursued by the Austrians, when the vessel was 
wrecked near Cervia. His wife, then near her 
confinement, walked through the forest, but at 
last fell exhausted and died in her husband's arms, 
as they reached the farm. In 1859, when Garibaldi 
gave up the command of the Central Italian 
League, upon his difference with General Fanti, 
before leaving Ravenna, he visited bis wife's grave, 
with his two children, Teresa and Menotti, and 
afterwards retired to Caprera. 

Ravenna, in the middle ages, was a republic 
under the influence of the Polenta family, one of 
whom, Guido da Polenta, was the father of 
Francisca Rimini, whose adultery with her hus- 
band's brother, Paolo, is the subject of the well- 
known episode in Dante's Inferno^ Cant. V. Her 
father, Guido, was Dante's protector, and gave him 
funeral honours. The Venetians held it from 1440 
to 150ij; it was taken by the French after the great 
battle of 1512; and was given up to the Pope in 
1530. Krom Ravenna a line has been opened, 
through Cervia and Cesenatico, along the coast 
over the Rubicon (see next page) to RiminL There 
is a tram line to Forli (below) in 1^ hour.] 
Returning to the main line towards Ancona the 

next station to Oastel Bologneie is 

.neAOxa TJEttat.)* the ancient Favmtia^ on the 

VXm ^mJJla and the Rtrer lamone ; the first place 

" ««cr mAeiv coJoaiwi and glazed pottery^ of the 



kind which the Italians call majoUca (becaufe 
originally a Majorca production^, and the French 
called /aience, was made. Population, 14,000. It 
was taken and sacked in 1378 by the Papal troops 
ur.fier Hawkwood, an English leader. It is a well- 
built, walled town, with an arcaded piazza in the 
middle, surrounded hythe Cathedral, Clock Tower, 
Town Hall, Fountain, &c. The Cathedral con- 
tains some jtaintings; and the Town Hall was the 
palace of Q. Manfredi, who was murdered here, 
by his wife, Francesca. His two sons were after- 
wards put to death at Rome, on the surrender of 
Faenza to Caesar Borgia in 1601. 

Torricelli, the pupil of Galileo, and inventor of 
the barometer, was bom here; as well as Tarn-, 
burini, the singer. There is a Monument to 
Mazzini. Picture Gallery in the Gymnasium. 
The .Zanelli Canal, cut 1782, communicates with 
the Adriatic. 

About 4 miles distant are the hot Springs of 
St. Catherine. The road to them, which ascends the 
Lamone and crosses the Apennines down to . 
Florence, was first made by the Romans. It was 
close to Faventia that Sylla defeated the Consul 
Carbo, and drove him out of Italy. 

Rail, 27 miles, to FoglUUlO and Fantino. 

Forli (Stat.), near the Montone, is the B<niuui 
Forum Livii, founded by Livius Salinator, after 
his defeat of Asdrubal. Population, 41,000. 

Forli is a bishop's sec, and head of a province. 
It contains an old castle, or rocca, the seat of the 
Lords of Forli; a Cathedral, Santa Croce, lately 
rebuilt, and several churches; the Palazzo del 
Govcmo, in the large piazza; theAlbicini, Guarini, 
and other palaces; a Monte di Pletk; and a new 
» Peschiera, or fish market, built 1830. At the ■ 
cathedral is C. Cig^ani's fine Assumption, in the 
Cupola of the Chapel of the Madonna del Fuoco 
(or fire) which took him twenty years to 
paint. St. FilipiM) has paintings by Cignani, C. 
Maratti, and Ghicrclno's Annunciation. At the 
Observatine Church of St. Girolamo is Guido'a 
Conception, with frescoes by Palmeziano and 
Melozzo. At St. Morcuriale, works by Palmez- 
zano and I. da Imola. 

The Pinacoteca at the college contains paintings 
and drawings by Palmezzano, Cignani, Melozzo, 
Ac. Palmezzano was bom at Forli, about 1466; 
his portrait is preserved by his family. His 
Deposition is now in the National Gallery. 

Tram to Ravenna, and to Meldola. 

Cross the Ronco (ancient BedesU) to 

Forllmpopoli (Stat.), so called after Fntttm 
Pompilii, of the Romans, which was destroyed by 
the Lombards, in 700. Population of the modem 
town, 4,996. It has a church and a castle, built by 
Ciesar Borgia, to whom it was given by his father, 
Alexander VI. 

Cross the- Bavio to 

Ceflena (Stat.), the Roman Cautna, and a 
bishop's see*, o^lehrsied for its white wine. Pop«-' 



fioute 22.] 



ftATEl^NA, tOtttl, ttUBICON^ BIMINl. 



103 



lation, 88,223. the Palazzo Pnbblico has a paint- 
ing by F. Francia; at the Capuchin Chiu'cb is a 
Guercino. There is a statue of Pins YII. (Ghiara- 
monte), who was bom here, as was his predecessor, 
Pius yi., who died at Avignon, 1799. In the 
library of the college, collected by the Malatesta 
family, among other MSS., is the Etymologise 
of St. Isodorus, of the seventh century. The 
Benedictine Church of Madonna del Monte, on a 
hill near the town, is the work of Bramante. Pius 
YII. was a monk in this convent. 

This place was at the mercy of a secret society 
between 1849 and 1854, which in the name of 
liberty perpetrated more than sixty political mur- 
ders, and was not put down till Farini came with 
a strong band in 1861, and arrested its leaders. 
There are mines of good sulphur in the neigh- 
bourhood. 

Between this and Savig^ano the line passes the 
rivers Pisciatello, Fiumicino, and Rigossa, all of 
which, with the Uso, have at one time or another 
been identified with the famous 

Rubicon, the boundary line between Cisalpine 
Gaul and Umbria in Italy proper. Csesar, in B.C. 49, 
was at Bavenna when M. Antony came to him with 
news that the Senate had resolved that he should 
dismiss his army or be declared a public enemy. 
Sending on his cohorts before, he came to the 
Rubicon, the boundary of his province. '* We may 

go back,'' he said, '^but when we pass this little 
ridge everything must be done by arms." He 
made up his mind, waded the stream, saying, 
"Alea^ta est" (the die is cast), took Arlminium, 
and in Two months was master of all Italy. Close 
to a Roman bridge on the Fiumicino is a pillar of 
modem date, with a pretended Senaius constUtum, 

Erohlbiting any general from crossing, xmder the 
eaviest penalties. This stream, however, into 
which the real Rubicon, which was probably the 
upper part of the Pisciatello, formerly fell, may 
stand for the real boundary with as much pro- 
priety as any other. The next place is 

8. ArcangelO (Stat.), on the River Uso, 
which is the fourth stream claimed as the Rubicon. 
This little town is the birthplace of Clement XIY. 
(Ganganelli). The next station is 

BIMIKI (Stat.) 

The ancient AHminium, in Umbria, where the Via 
iEmilia ended, or joined the Via Flamlnia. The 
modem boimdary of Umbria, or Urbino, is further 
on. 

Population, 37,000. 

Hotels: Aquila d'Oro; Posta. 

Conveyance*.— Railway to Ancona and Bologna. 

Tramway from the station to the Bathing Estab- 
lishment. 

This ancient Roman town stands on a plain 
at the mouth of the Marecchia (ancient AHminius)^ 
ivbere the Ansa joins it near the sea, which has 
aomewliat retired from the old port made by 
Augustus. The marble stones of the port were 
nted in the construction of the cathedral . Further 
Agfim la a harbour for small oraf t 



Rimini is on the whole well built ; it is a bishop's 
see, and, besides its remnants of Roman occupa- 
tion, it contains a fine Cathedral, churches, college, 
lyceum, the palace of the Malatesta family (now 
a prison), Lords of Rimini, and remains of their 
fortress, with two open places. One is the Pescheria, 
or Fish Market, surrounded by arcades, in which 
is a pedestal stating that Csesar addressed his 
soldiers here after passing the Rubicon. Suetonius 
and Lucan make him out to have done-so, but he 
says nothing of it himself. The other, or Piazza 
Grande, is ornamented with a bronze statue of 
Paolo v., and a fountain. The Fanal and Para- 
diso otter good points of view. 

*Arco cFAugustOy or Porta Romana, is an arch 
across the road to Rome, ei'ected in honour of 
Angrustns. It is a simple and massive pile of white 
stone, like marble, supported by four Corinthian 
columns, 82 feet high, with medallions of Venus, 
Jupiter, Neptune, and Minerva. It is 60 feet high 
and 27 thick, and the archway is 81 feet wide, 
being wider than any other in Italy. 

*Font€ cTAugtuto^ or bridge which carried the 
^milian way over the Ariminius (now MarecchiaX 
is of five arches, 820 feet long, made of blocks of 
Istrian marble. An inscription states that it was 
finished by Tiberius. There are some slight traces 
of an amphitheatre of Brutus, at the Capuchin 
Clonvent. 

The Cattedrale, or Tempio dei Malatesta^ was 
founded in the fou/teenth century and rebuilt 
in the fifteenth, by L. B. Alberti, in the mixed 
Gothic and classical style, at the cost of Sigismund 
Malatesta, whose arms (the rose and elephant) and 
family monuments are visibleall over the building. 
Under a series of arches down the outside are 
seven Sarcophagi dedicated to certain celebrities 
of this little court, one being that of a Greek 
writer on Aristotle. Near the door is the tomb of 
Isotta, fourth wife of Sigismund Malatesta, two . 
others having been poisoned. There are also 
monuments of Sigismund and his son-in-law; a 
portrait of the architect; a fresco by P. della 
Francesca, and bronze bas-reliefs by Ghiberti. 

At 8. Oiuliano's Church, near Augustus's Bridge, 
is a Martyrdom of St. Julian, by P. Yei'onese ; and 
at S. Girolamo is a St. Jerome, by Ga«*cino. At . 
the Capella S. Antonio, on tho canal, St. Anthony 
preached to the fishes. 

The Palazzo del Comnne, or Town Hall, contains 
a Pietk by G, Bellini, and a painting by Ghirlan- 
dajo. The Library of 30,000 volumes and MSS. was 
founded in 1617, by A. Gambalunga, a jurist. 
Tho Palazzo Ruffi is the site of the Cistemi Palace,, 
in which Francesca da Rimini and her lover Paolo 
de Malatesta lived, whose guilty passion is cele- 
brated by Dauto. Here she was killed in the arms . 
of her paramour. It is also celebrated for the 
Council between the Ai'ians and Athanasians. 

Rimini, some years ago, was the scene of a . 
Winking Madonna, whioh toot ^«fc»»s?5 -^j^aaBk."*^ 



104 



tin AT}fiH AM' 6 Italy . 



[Bectiou 1. 



llMtn. Tli(? tnott infelili<<tii pitrt ciidefiTotircd to 
fxiut^c f hfl client, wlilch Wiin infttinifod in a clumsy 
way liy moving thn rye* nnrt iiiHkiiiK thetn drop 
fifni'*! but tho Frrtiiclirjin tiioiikfi who contrived 
the trir-k unyc. out tint tli"«»n Milrm'lf«i wnrc iii- 
tfidol m illvlnf Wiiriiln^M to tlin ]>coplc for neg- 
lf«llo;r tli« wnrKtilp of llir Virgin. 

fAb'Mit J 2 niilcji Jiontli-wodt of niminl, up the 
vnUi'.y nt tho Anna (dill^fiico In 6 hours, n-tuni 
8 h^urx) \n the fauioui little 

RSPUBLIO OF SAN MARINO, 

Which oc(Mii)l("i ft n\mv.o of 22 square inlloji on tho 
top nnd NiopcN of n connnlcuous nnd crnKKy nioun- 
tnin (formerly unllcd Aloote TItano), about 2,(>00 
feot hi(fh ; nu<l connnintdN a strlkiuK prospect of 
the Adriatic Hun nnd the Apennines. It originated 
In n ehurrh, perched on the sunuiiltof the mountain, 
to the memorv of Ht. Marino, a hermit, who had 
hoeii n MInroninn stonecutter and fiml from Hiniinl 
In IMocletian's persecution. This church contains 
tlie nshes of the snint, nnd his statue holdlufir a 
model of the mountain top and of three towers of 
Itsenstle, which constitutethoarmsof the republic. 
They stand In La (;itth, tho seat of ffovernment, 
where (ho liest houses nre found; and which was 
WiiUud round In tho tenth century as tho ''I'lcbs 
Haneti Marlni cum ('astello.*' It can bo reached 
only liy sii<ang paths cut in tho almost perpen- 
dicular rock. 

Tho suburb outsldo tho city wnlls, 000 feet be- 
low, isenlled II Hortro; nnd tho population of l>oth 
amounts to 1,000. That of the republic in its wholo 
extent, IneludinfT Horravello and three or four 
other vlllnKos at tho foot of tho mountain, is nlmut 
7,N20. Its (rreatest distance across Is 8 uUIm, 
m that when tho trreat bell Is runir, on emor(fen- 
ete^ It is ensily heard nil over tho republic. It 
contnlns s<mie (rood pasture, nnd produces fruit, 
silkworms, nnd wine; tho Inst beintr kept In cool 
cellars exonvnted in tho rocks. One branch of 
manufacture Is powder, which Is a government 
monopoly In the rest of Italy. 

There Is an Inn In the city, nnd nnother In tho 
Uovirtt. Its stiTots nre ditDcult nnd only used by 
mules, donkeys, nnd oxen. 

At the fapurhln tMuirch is a Descent frtim tho 
rri>s^. There nre three other churches and four 
convents in tho repuldlo. In the t'ouncll Chamber 
Is n bust of Onofri, n dtstiniruished citlaeu, and a 
Holy Family, by O. Uomano. 

It Is fntverned nomlnallv by nn Arrinffo, or 

Assemblv of the cltUcns at larire. but really ny an 

elective (lenerale l\mst|tlbs called II IMnctpo (the 

Trlnce), of sixty member^ nobles, •mall proprlo- 

tar», and traders, one-thtr\l of each; and by two 

Oapttauel for town and cttuntry, who change every , 

atx months, A Judgo and doctor, who must be 

foretgners are electetl for three yeare. Though tt 

Atmmifmfi mnny of Wt> men, all volonteere, it hM • 

y^^/utrtgt'ii^miHtut £0,000, with nn expeDdltsrt 

r0 rmtAeritm mm, nud w pubUc Dvbt. 



Tbelawt aro printed in folio, entitled ^^Statata 
IllustrissimA Reipubllcse Sancti Marini,*' Addison 
spenks of these in his travels ; among other thingn 
they provbic that nn ambassador sent to any 
foreiirn state shall be allowed one shilling per 
day for his expenses. In the French invasion of 
1797, Honaparte behaved with civility to the 
ancient rcpulillc, offered to enlarge its territory, 
which was docline<l, and gave it four pieces of 
cannon. 

A treaty was concluded In due form in 1872 for 
regulating and settling the relations between tho 
new kin;^dom of Italy and the republic; and it 
still fi;?urcs among the independent states of 
Europe. It has been a convenient asylum for 

{)oIiticaI refugees and debtors, who have always 
jeen treated with impartial hospitality. One of the 
most distinguished was Delfico, a Neapolitan, who 
wrote a history of the republic, 1804, and always 
signed himself "Citadino di 8. Marino." ifis 
home is pointed out, as well as that of the Cavalier 
Borghesi, whose collection of medals is to be seen 
here. From tho summit of the mountain, tho 
coast of Dalmatla, across the Adriatic, can be seen 
at iutu'ine. ''Few such sunrises are, I think, to be 
witnessed from any spot in Europe. First, came 
tho gradually kindling path of tire athwart the 
cold deep blue of tho Adriatic. Then one after 
another the mountain tops were waked up to the 
new day. The Anconn Promontory was the first 
to catch tho ray ; then tho higher of the tops 
further inland ; and lastly tiie lowlands and the 
distant city of lUminl, which seemed close taVtcath 
our gaze. Let no one whose love of sight-seeing 
has induced him to climb the hill of San Marino 
leave it without having stood on the castle battle- 
ments at sunrise."— Trollopk's Lenten Journey. 

AI>out 6 miles south-west of S. Marino is the 
Cnstol di 8. Loo, In which the famous imiMstor, 
Count Cagliostro, who pretended to make old 
women young, and wns mixed up with the affair of 
(•ardinal Itonan and tho diamond necklace, was 
shut up by tho Pope, and died 1795.] 

Leaving Kimini, the rail now follows tho Flam- 
inian way, close to the coast, and tho next place 
is 

La CattOlica (Stat) Population, 1,300. In 
the Duchy of Urblno, so called when the orthodox 
bishops at the Council of Kimini separated from 
their Arian brethren and found an asylum hero. 

Cross the Foglia (or ancient Isaurtu)^ near the 
remains of a Roman bridge, to 

Poiaro (Stat.) The Roman Pisaurumy at the 
mouth of the Foglia, which forms a small port. 
Population, 19,547. 

It is walled round, with gootl wide streets, and 
. Ishcad of a prtivincet, and a bishop's see. It con- 
I tains the old palace of tho Duke of Urhlno, of the 
sixteenth century, in tho Plana, where there is a 
statue of Urblno VIII.; Cathedral, and seven or 
eight Churches, one of which, 8. Francesco, has 
Q. UvUVnVs CoT>^\\*ilton ot the Nlrgin. Dlbliol«ca, 



HovLte 22.] 



SAN MARtXO, PfiSARO, FANO, StXtOAOLlA. 



109 



with 80,000 vofitmes a".d many MSS., e^ecially 
one of Tasso. Collcgre and Priests' Seminary. 
Huscum of medals, bequeathed by Olivieri, the 
antiquary and an atire. Collection of inajolicA at 
tlie Ateiieo; this class of pottery came to great 
perfection at Pesaru. 

Coiienuccio, a chronicler of the fifteenth century, 
and~Rossini, were natives. Its Albanella and S. 
Gioviftc wines are sent to Egypt. 

Good olives and figs are grown here and coal 
has been found. In the neighbourhood is the 
Villa Bergami, which belonged to Queen Caroline, 
when Princess of Wales. The grounds contain 
two monuments to her daughter, the Princess 
dharlotte, and her brother, the Duke of Bruns- 
wick, who fell at Waterloo. 

VUla Imperiale was a seat of the Dukes of Ur- 
bino. At Casino del Barchetto (now a farm) 
Bernardo Tasso, ihe father of Torquato, resided, 
and composed his Amadis. S. Angelo, about 8 
miles off (where the best figs come from), is the 
birthplace of Giovanni Branca, who is claimed as 
the author of a work on steam, printed as early as 
1629. 

Pesaro by diligence, in 5 hours, to Urbino. 
(See Route 28.) 

The next place is 

Fano (Stat.) Called by the Romans Fanum 
Fortunes, from a temple erected to commembrate 
the defeat of Asdrubal on the Metaurus, near the 
mouth of 7«rhich it stands, in a charming situation. 
Its fort, restored by Paul V., is now useless. Popu- 
lation, 9,484. 

It is walled like the other towns in Italy, and 
one of its gates was a triumphal arch over the Via 
Flaminla, dedicated to Augustus, and restored by 
Constantine. It is a bishop's see. In the market- 
place is a fountain, with a statue of Fortune, 
allusive to the old name of the town, which is 
also perpetuated in the 

Duomo, dedicated to S. Fortunate. It has four 
lions in the Gothic front, and Domenichino's St. 
Mary and L. Carracci's Madonna. 

S. Agostino has Guercino's Guardian Angel, and 
8. Francesco, some fine Gothic tombs of the Mala- 
testa family. 

At Santa Maria Nuova are Perugino's Madonna, 
a Visitation, by G. Santi (Raphael's father), and a 
Fietl^ attributed to Raphael himself. 

8. Paterniano has Guercino's SjMsalisio (Mar- 
riage), and others by C. Bonone, d'Arpino, &c. 

8. Fietro has an Annunciation by Gaido. 

The Collegia once contained Domenichino's fine 
David with Goliath's Head (which has been 



temporarily located elsewhere), and the Hospital 
(or S. Croce Church), has a Madonna by G. Santi. 

Fano has a good theatre and public library. 
Small fish, of the sort called cavallo marino, from 
the likeness to h horse's head, arc taken alimg the 
coast. There is a road to Fossombronc and 
Urbino, and over the Apennines to Arezzo. (See 
Route 28.) From Fossombrone over the Furlo 
Pass to Fossato. Diligence daily from Fano to 
Fossato. 

From Fano, on the line, cross the Metauro, or 
Metaurus, on whose banks ihe Consuls Livy and 
Nero defeated Asdrubal, 207 b.c , and so turned 
the tide against Hannibal and C!arthage. Then 

MarOtta (Stat.), near Cape Marotta. Cross 
the Rivers Cssano and Misa, to 

SinigagUa (Stat.) The Sena GaUiea of the 
Romans, plundered by Pompey; alf^o a bishop's 
see, and the birthplace of Madame Catalan! and 
of the late Pope, Pio Nono. Pius IX., whose 
name was Giovanni Maria, waa born 1792, of the 
house of Mastai-Ferretti, a noble family long 
resident here ; became bishop of Imola, 1892, and 
was elected Pope, 1846. A cottage outside the 
town, in which his foster-nurse lived, records that 
Pio Nono was suckled there. It is noted for a free 
mart, or Fair, formerly of much resort, called the 
Fair of S. M. Magdalene, beginning 80th July, 
and chartered as far back as 1200. Traders came 
to it from many parts; the whole town and 
neighbourhood were for a time alive with business, 
and its small port was full of shipping. Popula- 
tion, 9,602. 

It has a fortress; Cathedral of S. Pietro; several 
churches, that of Delle Grazie, outside the walls, 
having a painting said to be by P. Perugino, and 
a Madonna by P. delia Francesca. 

In 1502, Slnigaglia was taken by treachery, by 
the infamous Caesar Borgia, and its defenders 
massacred in cold blood, with their leaders, 
Oliveretto, Vitelii, and the brothers Orsini. They 
wore mercenaries who had formerly served 
under him. Machiavelli, the envoy for the 
Florentine Republic, gives an account of the 
tragedy. 

After Slnigaglia, the line passes 

Montemardano (Stat.), not far from^he 

mouth of the Esino, the ancient ^sio, with the 
bold promontory of Ancona in view. 

Falconara (Stat.) 

Here the junction rail to Foligno and Rome falls 
in. (See Route 29.) Then comes 

Ancona (Btat.), which is by the water side. 
(See Route 28.) 



SECTION II. 

CENTRAL ITALY. 



TUSCAinr— UMBEIA— THE MARCHES— THE ABEUZZI— 
ABB EOEMER PONTIFICAL STATES, 

PISA— LUCCA— LEGHORN— ELBA— FLOEENCE AND ITS 
ENVIRONS— SIENA— PEEUGIA—ANCONA— FOGGIA— 

ROME AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



\ 



SECTION IL— CENTRAL ITALY. 



HOTTTE eS. 

Flu to Empoll and norence. 

PIU (Btat) 

Ppp.^.llon, 84,000, 

Ilaleli: OriiDd llnltl; VUtorli. w«][ «itE 
fscliiKtbeAnio: Minor vniGniiilHoteJdeLoii 



Pali Ogla.—'Star Ponla til H 



111. Vli I 



for drinking, bu 
lUll-n. by Cmi 



into mlrt, 


nor dim* 




ratta tha 




arching 




apring !• 




y hot, .t 




IghU «• 










nterainiK 


.liIrB,4»*. 


he Amo 


notKOod 


JZHTESlt^'LVi 





U«c)ll, sod 


Mely' 


ahullt. 


Glote to 11 1 




rre Oudfa, 


iDfr^n 


of Ihe 


Citadalm. 




UdiUtta. 




d Bridge, .ocslled. 




ddlaatth 


janctl 








siding no 


thiol 












rdoHM 


>heD»gu. 




Offlco, .nd 


opiioe. 




r bridge ol 


arch. 


Two cent 


rlMl.. 


fclhe 


ne m.nly g 



ijDUei.— To I^chom. by rail, 11 mllei; (o 
Florence, ty rsll viA Lnr™, Plslojm 4o.. In 4 

to Vollerrs. hy raH and ooachi (o BIcua, by rall| 
t« CwIda. Qroateto, CLvlti Veccbla, and Rome, by 

t'chitf Ol^eeU of Notice.— Dvomo, BBi>tl9tery. wot eudbetwem Ponaal Uare andtbrCita. 
I^anine Tower, Campo Santo. Santa Maria deUs wagthooldeat.bDllt l3ai,one>carches,ruCarcdbT 
Spina. Uniierilty. " --v. ._j ..._._ _.....,.. „ 



■unrhy'the w 



look r>( faded eraodenr and want of llle. which 

has brouBhl ujwn It the designation o( "Plia 

morta." It has never recorered the detlnietLon of 

iti port by the Genoese in IMO, ud it. dn^ aub- """ " — ' ""'" "' ™""~> ""■' '""' '^""'i- 

joctlon to Florence, 14M. The bubonrctwlni taken Abf" tbls 1> PoMt alia Forliaa. near the Porti 

by the Cienoew were leiloied IKM. Iti popnlallon "Ho Pligge, end not /ar ttom a aniall ancient fort. 

1. only a attb orjUth of what _lt wu, ana gT*» Between Ponte di Mei.o and Ponte dl Ferro U 

aitageofveneraWedecay; one ilgn of which Lb the The walk along the qqayi, or £1111;' Ana, li a 

niuober of beggare to be »ecq. A> a reeldenco. It favourite promenade. Here yon may Mill eee tin 
1> mild in winter, being eheltered by the Burroond- 1 ""<? '>™i 'biEi on (be walls ol the Palace^ In 

log billa, and lilheretore.BnllableforpcrBan> with which the galfoys o( their ownen were moored, 

weak InngSi but the rainy daya are catlnulod at At 'be Irlamtal (citlral o( the patron latnl, 17tk 

one in three, and the annual Inches at (otty-sevoi. Jnue. thequayBandbrldgcaarellgbtednp. 



ia loegii Oe'BancI 



no 



BRADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



palonrs statue of Leopold I. Piazza de' Cavalieri, 
surrounded by S. Stcfano and other fine buildings, 
and having a fountain with Francavilla's statue 
of Cosimo I. Near the Orologio is a white house, 
with green shutters, the site of the famous Torre 
del Fame, celebrated by Dante, and in Reynolds's 
picture, in which Ugolino della Gheradesca was 
starved to death, in the thirteenth century. Being 
appointed Captain-General, and having ruled tyran- 
nically, he was seized in an insurrection headed 
by the archbishop and confined here, with his two 
•sons and two nephews. The archbishop threw 
the key Into the river and left them to die of 
hunger. 

Piazza di S. Silvestro and Piazza di S. Niccola 
face those churches. The centre of interest, how- 
ever, is 

The Piazza del Duomo. at the north-west comer 
of the city, near Porta Nuova, containing its four 
chief attractions — the Cathedral, Baptistery, Campo 
Santo (or Churchyard), and the Belfry or Leaning 
Tower, all here concentrated together { "all built 
■of the same marble, all yarleties of the same archi- 
•tectufe, all venerable with years, and fortunate 
both in their society and their BoUlm\e.**—Forspth. 

*Leanlng Tower, or detached Bel/ry of the 
Cathedral, is a round building 52 ffect diameter 
np to the top storey, which is reduced to 40 
feet, and was added about 1450. It is 180 feet 
high, and declines 18 feet from the perpendicular. 
It was begun 1174 by William of Innsbruck and 
Bonano da Pisa, of marble and granite, in eight 
storeys of pillared arches or open galleries (207 
pillars in all), divided by cornices; and is a grace- 
ful and firm structure, showing no signs of decay 
though upwards of 660 years old. The lower 
•storey is 85 feet; the rest about 20 feet. It shows 
sig^s of having begun to settle about the third 
-storey. Some suppose (as they suppose of the 
Bologna towers) that it was designed to lean over; 
but this opinion is disproved oy the fact that the 
lowest row of pillars is sunk in the earth on one 
side, and the mouldings and ktairs are all inclined. 
Besides this, among the carvings of St. Ranleri, in 
.the Campo Santo, done 100 years later, there is 
a picture of the tower standing upright. In fact, 
the soil is so soft and yielding that water is 
found at the depth of a few feet ; and the Obser- 
vatory in the next street, and a neighbouring belfry 
both incline as well as the tower. The ascent 
(fee, 60 c.) Is by 294 steps. In the upper storey 
are seven bells, the heaviest (six tons) being placed 
on the offside to balance the inclination the other 
way. The view takes hi Leghorn and the Medi- 
terranean. This tower Is memorable for the use 
'which Galileo made of it in his experiments on 
fadling bodies. 

The venerable ^Oatbedral is a flve-alsledcroBs, 

810 feet long, with a nave 106 feet wide, having a 

flat wooden roof, while the aisles are vaulted, 

resthig on Insulated columns, which by their 

■ rmfietjTAnd colour produce a fine effect It was built 

Jaof-uis, l>y BagobettQ, or Baaketut, but mtiiy 

PATt^ iiare seti/ed, so that the lineB are nneren. 



In front it looks like a small temple placed on a 
larger, with three doors and Ave rows of false arches 
and pilasters (fifty-eight In all), one over the other, 
which are carried down the sides, so that the total 
number of small columns Is 450. Every part of the 
exterior is covered with striped marble, ornamented 
and coloured in an elegant style. 

'*It Is certainly one of the finest and most 
complete churches In Italy, and the typical 
example of a style that arose here out of the clas- 
sical during the dark ages. It shows a con- 
siderable tendency towards the (Jothlc, especially 
In the extension of the transepts and apse." — 
Fergtuson. But It hardly differs internally from 
Roman examples, " except in the Introduction of 
bold and well-defined trlforlum galleries over the 
pier arches." The arches are carried aU round, 
and rest on columns of the Greek order, on some of 
which are figures of lions, dogs, boars, and men. 
The bronze doors are carved with subjects from 
the Life of Christ and the Virgin, by Qiovanni da 
Bol(^na (1602), and replace others burnt 1596, 
except an ancient one in the south transept (1184). 
This interesting front has beeh restored. 

The inside Is gorgeous with gilding, sculpture, 
and paintings, and a hundred rich glass windows 
of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Columns 
of red granite, with antique bases and capitals, nui 
down the aisles, supporting rows of arches for the 
trlforlum. Its lofty painted cupola is lined with 
gilding and mosaic, by Rlmlnaldi (1680). At the 
east end is a large mosaic (by Gaddl) of Christ, the 
Virgin, and St. John. The inlaid work of the stalls 
in the choir deserves notice. There are twelve 
beautiful altars, designed by M. Angelo, or by 
Staggri. The Sacrament Chapel has a sliver altar, 
the gift of Cosimo I. It Is covered with bas-reliefs, 
and cost 36,000 crowns. 

The high altar Is splendid with inlaid marble 
and two porphyry colunms, one of which holds the 
bones of S. Ranieri, the patron saint. Here are A. 
del Sarto*s St. Catherine and St. Agnes, also his 
Virgin and Saints ; Ghlrlandajo*s Angels; and Bec- 
cafumi*s Moses and Aaron. 

In S. Ranlcrrs Chapel is a mosaic by Gaddl. 
A statue of Mars, found near this, has been baptized 
and turned into a San Piso, or Potitus. An ancient 
Greek Madonna is shown for a fee. There are 
monuments of Archbishops Rinucc<ni and G. de* 
Medici. The pulpit has some work by Giovanni 
da Pisa ; and in the sacristy are bas-reflef s by his 
pupil, Agnelli. The bronze lamp in the nave is 
said to have suggested to Galileo the theory of the 
pendulum. Facbig the cathedral is th<- ancient 

*B&ptl8tery, where all the baptisms take 
place; begun 1158, by Dloti Salvi; a rich and 
complete structure in a mixed Romsnesque and 
Gothic style, cased with marble. It is circular, 
and over 100 feet In diameter inside **The 
central part, 50 feet wide, is a circular colonnade, 
with four polygonal piers and pairs of pillars 
between tiiem. This supports a lofty eone, 176 
feet high, the l<mer part of which it now corered 
externally with a dom«^ wbich ftounthe oiiMmeQt« 



i 



Route 23.] 



PISA— CAMPO SAKTO. 



Ill 



is evidently of the fonrtecnth century, and certainly 
liot a part of ttie original design/' There is a fine 
tnasical echo underneath the dome. Externally 
the " beauty of its details and exuberance of its 
ornaments, render it a most captivating building." 
" — Fergusson. It has a mosaic floor ; a large broca- 
tcUa and marble font, big enough for immersion, 
and ornamented with rosettes and mosaics; an 
altar equally ornamented ; and a hexagon Pulpit, 
covered with bas-reliefs, on nine rich marble 
pillars, standing on animals designed by Niccolb 
Pisano, 1260, a native sculptor. He was the father 
of Giovanni, the architect of the venerable 

*Cailipo Santo or Holy Field, on the north side 
of the cathedral, the old burial-place, surrounded 
with a cloister, built 1278-83, and so called because 
laid down with fifty shiploads of soil brought from 
Palestine by Archbishop Ubaldo, 1228, when the 
Pisans, with other crusaders, were driven out by 
Saladin. It is now a beautiful green sward. The , 
marble cloister, or corridor, is an oblong on sixty- 
two arches, of which five are at each end, and 
twenty-six on each side; but, curiously enough, it is 
not a perfect*rectangle, thMr lengths being 430 
and 415 feet, apparently by an oversight. The 
breadth is about 186 feet. There are four cypresses 
in the grassy quadrangle. It is open daily (fee, 
60c.). The view here Is described by Words- 
iroith, when he paced 

** In Pisa's Campo Santo, the smooth floor 
Of its KFcades, paved frith sepfolchnJ slabs, 
And through each window's ojicu fret-work looked 
O'er the blank area of sacred earth, 
S'etched from Mount Calvary. • • • 

• . • • * 

And, hig^ above that length of cloistered roof^ 

Peering in air and backed by azure sky, 

Tq kindred contemplation miuiaters 

The BaptUUry'» Dom», and that which swells 

From the Cathedral pile ; and with the twain 

Cionloined in prospect mutable or Axed, 

(As hurry on in eagerness the feet, 

Or pause), the summit of the Leaning Tower. 

Ohl what a spectacle at every turn 

The place unfolds, from pavement skinned with moaR, 

Or grass-grown spaces, ^niere the heaviest foot 

Provokes no echoes, but must sof tlv tread ; 

Where solitude, with silence paired, stops short 

Of Deaolation, and to ruin's scythe 

Decay submits not." 

—Tour in Italtf—Muttngt ai Aeguap0ndente. 

The corridors are 46 feet high and 34 wide, covered 
In and lit by Gothic windows, paved with grave- 
stones of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and 
surrounded by about 300 monuments, consisting 
of ancient sarcophagi, mutilated statues, in&crip- . 
tions, bas-reliefs, and altars, by G. di Pisa, Ac, 
while the walls are lined with an Interesting series 
of frescoes of subjects from the Bible, Dante, or 
XiCgends of the Saints, by Giotto, Memml, Or- 
•cagno, S. Aretino, and other old masters; many of 
which are much decayed, or spoilt In attempts to 
' restore them. The Campo Santo had greatly suf- 
fered from neglect till the Princess Elisa appointed 
Gav. Laslnio as conservator, by whom a Bp«eial 
work was published, 1812, iiriift e&gr^Tjngti (f .411 
the subjects. 



There are few modem tombs. Some of the 
latest are Algarotti ; Pignotti, the best of Italian 
fable writers ; and Cavour. Among the most re- 
markable monuments are — statues of Emperors 
Frederic I., Henry VII., and Henry VIII.; statue 
of Hercules; a bronze Griffin, with Oriental 
characters, which surmounted the copola of the 
Duomo; tombs of B. doUa Gherardcsca, and 
Countess Beatrice; Thorwaldsen's bas-relief of 
Vacci, the surgeon; and a tablet to the Pisans, 
who fell in the war of 1848 against the Austrians. 
One relic is the massive iron Chain qf Pisa har- 
bour, carried o£f centuries ago by the triumphant 
Florentines and Genoese, but restored in 1848 and 
1860, as tokens of fraternal concord in united 
Italy. 

The ^Frescoes on the walls are in two rows, one 
over the other. The style of costume, Ac, of the 
subjects is curious and interesting. 

Entering by the door opposite the Baptistery, 
and turning to the left, they run in the following 
order :-- 

1. In the south-west corner — History of Job, in 
two pictures, by Giotto (1330). Four others by 
him are gone. 

2. In the west corridor — History of Esther and 
Judith, by A. Ghirlandajo and P. Giudotti (seven- 
teenth century). 

3. In the long north corridor, near the comer — 
Four frescoes by Pietro da Orvietro or Buffal- 
macco (1330-90), viz. :— The Universe; Creation; 
Death of Abel: Deluge. 

4. In the resi of the corridor, twenty-four fres- 
coes by B. Gozzoli (1469-86), viz. : — Drunkenness of 
Noah, with a female Peeping Tom looking through 
her fingers ; Ham Cursed ; Tower of Babel, with 
portraits of the Medici family ; Adoration of the 
Magi, above the Ammanati Chapel, which had 
frescoes by Giotto and Gaddi; Abraham refuses to 
adore Bolus; Abraham and Lot in Egypt; Deliver- 
ance of Lot, and Melchiscdek's Sacrifice; Expul- 
sion of Hagar; Destruction of Sodom; Sacrifice 
of Abraham ; Isaac and Rebecca ; Birth of Jacob 
and Esau ; Marriage of Jacob and Rachel ; Meet- 
ing of Esau and Jacob, and Dinah's Abduction ; 
History of Joseph, in two frescoes, above the 
tomb of Gozzoli, the painter (1478); Moses in 
Egypt; Passage of the Red Sea; Mount Sinaf^ 
Brazen Serpent; Fall of Jericho; David and 
Goliath ; Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. 

5. In the east corridor — Belshazzar's Feast, by 
Rondisoni; the Passion, Resurrection, and Ascen- 
sion, by Buffalmacco, or A. Vite; Capella Grande, 
with Giunta da Pisa's Christ on the Cross (1258). 

6. In the south corridor, east corner — *Triumph 
of Death, by A. Orcagna, a remarkable picture, 
crowded with figures ; *Last Judgment, by the 
same— one of the finest of all; Hdl, by B. Or- 
cagna, the brother of Andrea ; Anchorites in the 
Desert T^empted, by.P Lorenzetti; i^iunption, 
by Memmi (above the door). ' ■ .. " 

7. Betw^«(^\&.^ ftjwstv ^oAx'aJiRsfcR.^X^jCe^^'^as*^ 



KHice to theilinplLcKr of itraigth. AiyoiHoLow 
the chronology of the wall (1BSI)-I870) job otcli 

lo the pianii yon see tlm human ll^re firel 



byG. Aqnclli 


ItM 


ntaln's p. Traill 




St.Thon,B».» 
PulpItiN.d. 


tbPopaiBl.bc™, Ac. 
'i.a'. u.uc»ofFafth 


St.ThomaiL'i 
and CTiarily, 


i>nd bis lorn 




rebblsbop Suit 


rem ((B4I)i 


Vmini-s Biiita 


CMm 




StlCToaU. 


Snnta Chiar 




church al the 


oipltal, pear 














Santa Cstrrt 


Ina. baa old 


fretcMi by T 


Oaddf 


Baitoll, 4c (a 






Spina, on tho ^ 


"■^'^l^k'' 



and M called from a ihora of Chrisfj Croim. 
bronghl from Paleitlne by a Pisa merchant. It \t 
chleflf In the Gothic atyle. but bu gome round 
arcbea. Two good statiuiii by O. da Daa, oier the 
front, In richly canopied nichca; and within are 

S. Uariim. in the jout h-eaat.bM Falma Glorane's 
Bt. Benedict among the Thoma. Near thl> l> a 



unbquake In I81A, an aiic 

ment at Q. Orandi. a math 

e. Wliran. or Simla, neai 



da Empoll' 
Nativity. 



', near Via del Borgo, snd Ihe Knno A 
elonga to the Knijrhli of tbs Order of 
, Instltated In Isol by Coalmo I. to light 
iteBi and ttm built 1666-98 by Vaaarl, 
alaiio adjoining It. Bealdei a Bna 

o C^l's InBlllutlou of the Onjer: 
tattles of PrcTeaa and Lepanto; C, 
ibatkatlon of Cathorliie de' Hodld; J. 



irepana, formerly ihe aeat 

irmal school. Thefivnlli 

uvcoraico ".Ln i.cca a oust of Coalmo f I.,bn>tsof 

filu"iJ^ KfS'tch'e'd " thi' vThiu J3MwJ"tTtK 
black RTonnd lioiow. Fountain, and atatno o( 

JWaBo;f(»i(ini.(;othlc"o(l)tlic*nlury. Caff* 



Palaiia iWwflt on Ibe north qnay, was called 
ion/VoatM, when the residence of BjronlnlSM, 
after be left Bayonna. It wa. built by M. Angela 

Falano AdrtrVn'iiccAi or Upailn^i, on the noMh 

■■alia' glomita'' (dally). andOnldo'sBarlhlyand 
Heavenly Love In its picture gallery. 
Tho •dsictriitt, founded In the year 1S3R by B. 



il philosophy, wai malbe- 
uced (Ihropgb Looniu^ 






of J, t 



tury, lately 



:hoU[ of the twelfth' 
1 the aisles. 
S. Pirlra In Vlnco'i, bnllt In IIDO over an earlier 

S. Stpo-'cro. near Ponte dl Heizo. a ronud cbnrch 
I the twelfth centnry. bulU for tbe Knights 
/■j-D.Stlrl. OalUeD'aHosMtboinhets 






i. by Orandi. the i 



et of Physic, an Obscn 



Giotto, Lippl, Ciinab' 



J T<nig* of Komm oectqutm. 



Konte 24.] 



PISA, PONTEDS&A, £MPOLI, MONTBLUPO, LUCCA. 



113 



About 8 miles west of Pisa, towards the coast, 
is the Royal Acclimatisation Farm of 

H Oombo (formerly Le Cascine), so called from a 
fort of that name on the shores of the Mediter- 
ranean, and belonging to the King of Italy; near 
which Shelley was drowned, 1822. It has a 
-fine avenue (3 miles long) of elms and poplars; 
and numbers 2,000 wild cows, 1,500 horses, and 200 
camels employed in the work of the farm. T^e 
sea has retired here, and left a sandy soil, which 
is suited to the work of the camels kept here. 
They were first imported from the Levant by a 
Grand Prior of the Order of St. John. To the 
south is the mouth of the Amo, and the ancient 
Porto Pisano. 

La Certosa della Voile Grazina, a Carthusian 
Convent, is under Monte Verraca, a fine range of 
hills, 1,760 feet high, 6 miles east of Pisa. 

Pisa, in the twelfth century, was disting^iished 
for its commerce and maritime enterprise, and the 
number of its galleys, by which it made many suc- 
cessful attempts against the Turks and Moors. 
Along with Grcnoa it conquered Sardinia, Corsica, 
and the Balearic Islands, and even attempted to 
reduce Sicily. After frequent wars with its rival, 
Genoa finely obtained the supremacy in 1284, at 
the naval battle of Meloria ; 13,000 prisoners were 
taken to Genoa, and its harbour at Port Pisano, 
or Calambrone, was filled up. Having sided with 
the Ghibelline or Imperial party, it was in 1446 
seized by the Florentines, and thenceforth be- 
-came subject to the Medici. 

From Pisa there are two railway routes to Flor- 
ence; 1st: by way of Empoli, 49 miles; 2nd: by 
way of Lucca, 62^ miles. (See Route 24.) 

1st. By way of Empoli, up the richly-cultivated 
valley of the yellow Amo, which winds among 
vineyards and fields of com and flax. 

The stations are — 



MUes. 

Empoli 29i 

Montelapo 38 

Signa 40| 

S. Donnino 43 

Florence 49 



is 



Miles. 

Navacchio 6 

Cascina 8 

Pontedera 12^ 

S. Romano 20 

S. Miniato S3| 

From the terminus at Porta Florentina, to 

NavaCOMO (Stat.) Across the Arno 
Monte Verruca, 1,760 feet high. 

Pontedera (Stat.), population, 9,633, where 
the Era falls into the Amo. There is a road to 
Volterra and the copper and borax works in its 
neighbourhood. 

S. Miniato (Stat.) An old cathedral town 
(population, 15,699) on the hills, with a conspicuous 
church and tower. Here, in 1799, Napoleon paid a 
visit to a Canon Bonaparte, a connection of his 
family. 

Empoli (Stat.), on the Amo, where the rail- 
way to Siena and Rome branches off. (See Route 
26). Population, 17,500. It stands in a fertile 
plain, and is memorable for a meeting of the 
Ghlbellines, in 1200, after the battle of Monte 
Aperto, on the i^bia, and the defeat of the 



Florentines, when a proposal for razing Florence 
to the ground was successfully opposed by 
Farinata degli Uberti, as described in Dante*s 
Inferno. 

Ithasan ancient collegiate Church, of theeleventh 
century, with frescoes by Giotto. Jacopo da Em- 
poli, &c. ; and an equally ancient Baptistery, with 
an altar-piece by Ghirlandajo. 

Montelupo (Stat.) Population, 6,227. So 
called from a castle of that name (meaning Wolf's 
Hill), built on the Amo, by the Florentines, 1208, 
to watch another one opposite it, called Caprcfja 
(the goat), which belonged to their rivals of Pis- 
toja. Terra cotta vases are made. Near this is 
Ambrogiana, a villa of the late Grand Duke. 
Cross by an iron bridge to the north bank of the 
Amo, which hero enters the narrow defile of Gon- 
folina, between rocks of sandstone. Then cross 
the Ombrone, which comes down from Pistoja and 
the Apennines to the north. (See Route 21.) 

SiS^ (Stat.) A fortified town (population, 
6,669), on the Arno. Cross the Bisenzinio to 

S. Donnino (Stat.) ; the next one to 

Florence, which is entered near the Cascina. 
(See Route 26.) 

Pisa to Lucca, Pistoja, and Florence. 

Pisa to Florence, by way of Lucca and Pistoja, 
62i miles, by rail in four hours. (See BradOiaw^s 
Continental Ouide). 



Miles. 

Serravalle 38| 

Pistoja 42 

Montale A 47 

Prato 62 

Calenzano 66| 

Sesto 68 

Castello 60 

Rifredi 61 

Florence 62 



I 



The stations are — 

Miles. 

S. Giuliano 6^ 

Rlgoli 7i 

Ripafratta 9i 

Lucca 16 

Porcari 20i 

S. Salvatore 26^ 

Pescia 29^ 

Borgo-a-Buggiano. . 8l| 

Montecatini 33t 

Pieve-Mons 84^ 

Leaving Pisa, near the Porta Nuova terminus, 
the first place is 

S. Giuliano (Stat.), population, 16,777, near 
/ Bagni, or the warm baths of St. Julian, known 
to the Romans as the Aqtue Pisanae^ and revived 
by the Countess Matilda, in the twelfth century. 
Temperature, 84* to 109*. They are useful in com- 
plaints of the stomach, rheumatism, gout, Ac. 
Two Bath Houses, and private Baths named after 
Jupiter, Mars, &q. 

Ripafratta (Stat.), on the Seichio, near 
some old towers, and the Monte Diero Castle, on 
the Pisan Hills, to the right. After this comes 

LUCCA (Stat.), 
The ancient Luca, on the Auser, now the Serchio. 
Over the principal gate is the word " Libertas." 
Population, 69,000. 



T^tti "owl ™ut^oln! an" taksop" 
Clltai to the Baths. 19 !lte. 

At the Balhi, IS miles dlslint. la a 
Eaellah ntaietan. Dy Iramway and omnlbi 

•«WOM«<ioj'JIWte.~Duoino. S.Ftoil 
Ulchsle, S. Roniiino. Pnbllo FaUce. 

«lty, ihiit In hj- nunpani. planted wit 

marahy pjiiin. cnltlvaled like a garden, tu 



Itislb«Malo[aproTinm,8nd»niirQhhl!liop.and 
vai for a Ilaie the h^ad of a ainall dncby. created 
bv Napoleon fur hli tlsler Ellaa; which In iW. on 
the death ol hia widow. Maria Loulta. DDCheii •>[ 
Parins. wii annexed to Tuscany. For two centnriei 

Slkalhatol Venice. 

The chief bnlldlngt, Post Office, Theatre, Ac. are 
near the Cathedral Mid Palaiio Pubblico. which 
face a Urge oiwn PlBi:a Grande, and a statue of 
KarlaLonl-a. 1SI3. In Flazii Merc<t(». near 



Alexander If. The front by Guldetto (ISM), has 
tliree galleries and rows of arcadea, and a porch 



e puJplt. 149!; 



ItteoClvltall: I 
luinent of P. Ni 
: tomb of Cone 



_ le Chapel 

ol 81. Ko!{idu% a small domed octaBrou of marWe 
And nonibyiy, restlnr on eight plllors. Another 
et Sobaallan Is In the Volto Sanw Chapel, an 
oct«lfon, ao called becante oJ niiracohius croelfli 
rbvnd In TBI, which Is commemorated In C. Bog- 
lelli's Ireien on the door. 

■nd bli Cruciflxlon!'F. Zuccbero's Adoration of 
e/lirJViig-l! Tlntoretlo'a Last Supper; QhlrlandaKs 

Vaiarrcctiou, and V. de Yoltem't Baata PcUo- 



ITALT. [Seeticn 9, 

llla.lD Ihe Liberty Chapel wLii 
v.. In IMS; Fra Banolommeo'i 1 






the Carmelites, and has a Madonna, by Peru^ino. 

& CrUloforo, with a hair-Lombard, bilf-Golhlc 
front, is the burial-place of M.Clvitall, the sculptor. 

SS. Crotifiuo lie' BiaiKhi. An Assumption by 



the city Bapll9tery. a si|narc vaulted pile. In the 
nave li a head of St, John the Baptist ta a charger. 

SUKte Uaria In Cortt Ortasdiai Is attached to 
the Convent of della Madre dl Dlo. (onnded In 
the seventeenlh century, by Giovanni Leonardl, 

L. Olordanl'a Assiiuiptlon at the high altar. A 






''^i 






L Iwcnty-lwo Bne colons of 

rtalii Magister Robert. 
...uuuK luc paindnga are— Francla's Coronation 
of the Virgin ; and Aipertlno's frescoes relating to 

of St. Fredlane, In the Augustine Cbapol. In tlig 
Sacrament Chapel, carvings by Uolla QncreU, 

8. Uaria Forii-Porlam, near Porta Bania Crocc, 



^UISIS. \ 



:a Luela. 



the style of Pisa Cathedral, with leTeral atorcys of 
IBUU trcbea and rlllan. TM liufa Angel at tb* 



Route 24.] LUCCA, BATH8 OF LUCCA, HONTBCATIKA, P18T0JA. 



115 



top has bronze wings, which shake in the wind. 
It contains a Madonna Enthroned, by F. Lippi. 

S. Pietro Somaldi, near Porta S. Pictro, in the 
sonth wall. The front with a bas-relief of St. 
Peter and the Keys, was built 1205. Palma 
Vecchio's St. Anthony the Abbot, with St. Francis, 
&c. 

S. Romano, behind the Dacal Palace; an old 
church, rebuilt seventeenth century, by Buonamici. 

S. Salvatore has above the doors two bas-reliefs 
of the twelfth century, by Bidiiino, an old master. 

8. Trinita contains M. Civitall's Madonna on the 
Throne. 

The palaces incltide :- - 

Palazzo Ducale (now P. Pubblico), a large edi- 
fice, l}cgun 1578, by Ammanati, and continued by 
Giuhara, 17*^9. It has a good marble staircase, a 
public Library of 40,000 volumes, and a small 
Fifture OaUery^ including two good pictures by Fra 
Bartolommeo — the Madonna della Misericordia 
Praying for Lucca; and God the Father, with 
St. Mary Magdalene and St. Catherine of 
Siena. Among the MSS. are Gospels of the 
tenth century, and Latin poems by Tasso. The 
statue of Maria Louisa by Bartolini faces the 
palace. 

Palazzo Pretorio, facing S. Michcle, is a large 
solid building of the fifteenth century, formerly 
used as law courts. 

Palazzo Borghi, built 1418, by P. Guinigi, is now 
the Deposito di Mendicity, founded 1413. 

Palazzo Oiudizione, where the archives are kept. 

There are several hospitals for the poor and help- 
less, for foundlings (esposti), and orphans; with a 
College and high school, the latter having a library 
9f 20,000 volumes. 

Teatro del Oig'io, built 1817, faces the Piazza 
Grande Another, called Teatro DiurnOy is near 
Porta S. Donate, in the west wall. 

BATHS OF LUCCA, 

15 miles up the Serchio; by tram to Ponte a 
Uariaiio, thence diligence. 

Hauls : Del' Europe; New York. 

Church Service— in the season. 

Resident English Physician —Dr. Gason. 

The road passes Marl ia, 3 miles, a royal country- 
seat, with a convent and gardens, copied from 
those at Marli near Paris; Ponte della AfaddaUna, 
or del Diavolo, with its high pitched middle arch, 
12 miles ; then the Lima to 

Ponte a Skrraglio, 15 miles, in the midst of 
the warm sulphur springs, and the villages which 
have grown up around them. The veal, trotit, 
olives, and oil are all excellent. Under the names 
of Bagiii alia Villa (old palace), and Bagni Caldi, 
Doccebassi, Bernabo, Ac, the *Bath» occupy a 

gleasant and healthy part of the valley of the 
erchio, and are much frequented from May to 
October. The temperature ranges from 93* to 
180^, they are elear and contain sulphates of lime 
a'td magnesia, with iron ; and are useful in skin 
diseases, fevers, nervous complaints, and diseases 
of the glands. 
Thera It • good mpplj of hotetat, lodging-bouMB, 



shops, reading roorrs, ponies, donkeys, Ac, with an 
English church, book club, and a hospital for the 
poor, founded by Count Demidoff. The Casino is 
a fine building, 140 feet long. 

Excursions to the pretty village of Lugliano and 
its ash trees, and San Marcello, up the Lima; to 
Prato Fiorito, and Montagna di C:iclle; to the Bar- 
gello Tower; and to the more distant height of 
Tre Potcnee and Rondinajo, 3,200 feet, in the 
Appenines, commanding extensive prospects of 
land and sea, even as far as Corsica. Boscolungo 
(see p. 98) is about 6 hours distant. 

Following the rail, the first large place is 

Pesda (Stat.) Population, 12,339. Amongmul- 
berry grounds and paper works. Redi praises its 
wine. 

Montecatini (Stat.), population, 6,276, under 
a hill about 5U0 feet high. Here are some old 
fortifications, and waters drunk in cases of 
dysentery and liver complaints; temperature, 
70** to 80". Hotel: Locanda Magsi«re. Near 
Pleve (Stat.) is Monsummano (with hot springs 
at the Bath Hou^e), the birthplace of Oittsti^ the 
famous patriotic poet, who died 1849. He was the 
friend of Azcglio and Ridolfi. At 

Serravalle (Stat.) Population, 5,467. Here 
an old fort guards a pass in the hills, a tunnel 
through Monte Albano. Cross the Ombrone to 

PlstOja (Stat.), where the Bologna railway 
joins. (See Route 21.) This is the Italian Birming- 
ham, styled ''La Ferrigna," from the arms and 
other iron goods made here, among which are 
pistols^ first invented here by Camillo Vitelli, al.out 
)520. Machinery, nails, pins, cutlery, pistols, 
ploughs, organs, Ac, still figure among its pro- 
ductions; as well as good mutton and melons. 

Population, 52,000. 

Hotel: Albergo del Globo e di Londra. 

It is the ancient PistorHa, at the foot of the Apen- 
nines, of a square shape, with bastions and gates 
at each comer, and good wide streets. It is the 
seat of a diocese, one of whose prelates was Sclpione 
di Ricci, a reforming bishop of the last century; 
and in mediaeval history It is celebrated for the 
Invention of the Bianchi and Neri, or Ghibellines 
and Giielphs. These originated in a quarrel, in 
1296. between the Cancellieri and Pnnciatichi 
families, whose old palaces are here. In 1306, its 
first walls were razed by the Florentines, which 
proved a fatal blow to its prosperity. 

In the Piazza dol Duomo at the centre of the 
town, near the cathedral, is the 

Palazzo Pretorio, now the Law Court, an Italian- 
Gothic building of the fourteenth century, the seat 
of the Podesth in the time of the republic. 1 acing 
this is the picturesque 

Pa'azzo Comunale, or dcgli Anziani, built 
1295-1385. Over the middle window is a black 
marble bust of Tedici, who betrayed Pistoja to 
his father-in-law, Castruccio CastracanI, of Pisa, 
in 13*25. In the advocates* room is a gigantic 
sketch of a Captain Grandenio^ 1& <.«.%\.V<v^. 

The DuavMiy w C.*!Cftw\\«\ ^V '^•^>'^'=«^^lf*::^S 



MADSKAW S 

niedbrKiciwIbdiPlH. { br 
U bnlBO onlerpnliiH; I ant 
mlaed. TbeCiope 



itlcD, Irom the villa Ptf» (Hallo at Bi 
The iitptdah Grmdc it! C/ppa, f oondeil 



I-nrie- 



:Lngthec«tli«ilrill>ihaBaptimm',or 



•Bi^banou 



<>.bnlUl!GO. It CO 



■cilnBt the aTnod the Bull (!7W) • 
fldel." RIccI mbmltled, and wsa tw 

FlotcnMin nil. Ufa mothetbeiiig a me 
Rlcuoll lamLly. Oppoalle the palace 1 
logical College, "1th a beaulKa! cortld 
deiis. Cardinal Fortlgnerrs'iLUmrfj 

3. BarUlonma and S. Paolo ua I 
twelfth ceutury. S. B^rtotommeo, 

Midiclt - • " ' "- ■- 

Pulpit. 

B.Do 

Ismmeo'a Madoni 
Borroineo, with ponraltsot the Itoaplglloioramlly 
C. Allorl'a St. Dominic rMclTln; the lloiiU7, will 
..._.,_„_. ...... » '^'■— andaKaSL Scbot 

^•civlta, BO calle- 
> cllf vralla. vhlet 
Dowencloaeit. uaiit in ine iirelfin aod thlrteentL 
untDriet The toot i> bv Oiovannl da Plu. 

Baila ifaiia dUf UmM. an octagon cbnrch. In 
the CorlnlhlanaBIa, anJ one of the beat In Piatiaa ; 
begun l.'M, br Vltonl. aud Gniihod by Veaarl.Bb., 
bnilt (he cuptda. At one of the allara li Ihe goM 
laurel crown of Corllla Ollmpica. a poeuai. whloli 
■be conHcnted to the Virgin. 

S- aaltaton, rebuilt 13Ti>. Here Callllne la aal'l 

upon CIMro'a eipo^ure of hia conaplrtoy. and hl^ 
defeat by the Contuli,ln tblanelghbonrbood. The 
ji»v/Jr aaUsd Tomba dl Catlllna, 



entlX.i 

idBos^ 

COlongo (p. «8i mountain reaona near Uonle 
iHmonf, and GailgllUlO, anothet hcattn reaort 

PmtO (Btot.), on the Elsenilo, undar the 
Apennines. Papulation. 1^410. An old walled 
town, with B Cathedra) of the twelllh and fifteenth 
centuriei. containing the Virgln'sQInlle. and painl- 
inga by F. Uppl. A. Qadd4, *c. ; a Oothlo cam- 

Woika'.of the Early Florentine Renalasance BM 
Ihe chief atlractlon. Diligence through ItaaVJLl 
01 BlieiUlO [o Vemlo. 

BwtO (Btat.), popnlatlon, lO.IM, near Monte 
HorellQ(a,«H) feet high). 

norenoe (Btat.) <Se« Bante ZC). 

noxjrrE se- 

PUa, to Lsgbom, Oeoliia, BiUne, Voltarra, 
Elba, OroMeto. Olvlta Vaeehla, and Kom*. 

Thia is the western coait line, loUon-Ing the VU 



Leehom 
CcTle Sal 
Fanglla 



). Vlneenio '.".'. 
;}amplglla Marl 



= !!3 



lad, piaaing DOthli^ of 
LEaHORH (Btat.) 



the official In charge. 
TraTBllera will do well to prorids IhamHlvw 



Bonte 25.] 



PISTOJA) LBOHORK, CXOIKA. 



11^ 



as there may be some difficulty in obtaining change, 
evon for English sovereigns, at the smaller places. 

Post-offlee^ Piazzo Carlo Alberto. Telegraphy Via 
del Telegrafo. 

British Chapel^ near the old Bnglish Cemetery; 
service at 11 a.m., and in the afternoon. 

Scotch Presbyterian Church, near the old English 
Cemetery ; service at II a.m. and 6 p.m. 

Resident English and American Consuls. 

Commission Agents and Bankers. — Macbean &, Co. 

English and American Bankers. — Messrs. Maqnay 
and Hooker, 7. Via Borra.; Macbean <fe Co., 12, 
Via dcUa Madonna. 

Conveyances. — ^Railroad to Pisa, Pontedera, and 
Florence. Steamers almost daily, during the 
season, to Civita Vecchia, Naples, and Sicily, 
and Genoa. 

Leghorn stands on a plain on or near the site of 
Portus Hereulis, or Libumi, and was founded by 
the Florentines (to whom it was ceded by Genoa in 
1421), upon the decay of Porto Pisano. Being 
comparatively modem, it is regularly built, with 
•wide-paved streets. The west part, near the har- 
bour, called Nuova Venczia, is traversed by canals 
into the Arno, leading up to the merchants' ware- 
houses, and the old magazine, &c. A principal 
street, the Via Vittorio Emanuele, runs from the 
harbour to the Pisa Gate, across the Piazza d'Armi, 
at the middle of the town, in which stands the 
Duomo and Palazzo del Governo. It is about two 
miles round, exclusive of Borgo Cappucini and 
other suburbs. It is well lighted, and supplied 
with water by an aqueduct from Colognole, made 
1792. 

Leghorn carries on an active trade with England, 
France, the Levant and the Black Sea; it was 
formerly a great nest of smuggling ; and, as 
might be expected, the shops are numerous 
and well supplied. The English are liked, and 
their language is not unknown to the natives, 
who, as a class, are industrious, peaceable, and 
tolerant. Besides many English, French, Ameri- 
can, and Greek residents, here are foand the 
descendants of Jews and Moors expelled from 
Spain, and of refugees and traders from other 
nations, such as Roman Catholics from England, 
and merchants from Marseilles, invited to settle 
here by the liberal policy of Cosimo I., Ferdinand I., 
and their successors, who created it a free port, 
and steadily favoured its progress. From 1808 to 
1814, it was almost annihilated by Xapoleon's con- 
tinental system; but since that period it has 
recovered. 

There is an old or inner harbour for smaller 
vessels, protected by a mole, half a mile long, to the 
lighthouse at the end; besides a new or outer 
harbour protected by a breakwater begun by the 
Austrians and lately finished. Elephants' tusks 
were found in the soil near the Docks, in 1882. 
Large craft lie inside this or anchor outside in the 
roads. Here Lord Keith's flagship, the Queen 
Charlotte, took fire in 1 800, when 700 out of 850 men 
were burnt or drowned. Kear the Darsena or 



Opera's large statue of Ferdinand I., surrounded 
by a group of four Turkish slaves, by Tacca 
There are also extensive lazarettos, and a prison. 

The Pittzza dei Due Principi is so called from 
the statues of Ferdinand 111. and Leopold II., 
which stand here. The old Torre Rossa, or Red 
Tower, with its lion for a weathercock, is the only 
piece of antiquity here. 

Leghorn is a bishop's see, and has a Duomo or 
Cathedral, built by Yasari, with a front designed 
by Inigo Jones, who travelled in Italy in the 
early part of his career, and imported the Italian 
style of Palladio into England. It has paintings 
by Ligozzi, Cigoli, and Empoli. There arc several 
other Churches — aa Santa Maria Virgine, S. 
Domenico, S. Giovanni, Sec., all adorned with 
marbles; an English chapel and cemetery; a 
Dutch church and cemetery, laid nut with flowers; 
a handsome Synagogue, richly ornamented ; two 
Qreek churches, with some curious paintings: 
Armenian church ; Maronite church ; Theatre and 
Opera House. 

The English Cemetery, on the ramparts, contains 
the graves of Smollett, with an epitaph by his 
friend, Dr. Armstrong, the poet, and of Francis 
Horner, with a likeness by Chantrey on his marble 
tomb. Smollett wrote his "Humphrey Clinker" 
here. 

Leghorn, having a good mild climate, is fre- 
quented for bathing in summer, and also for its 
sulphur waters at Puzzolenta and Montenero, out- 
side the walls. The Montenero Hills, near the 
springs, are covered with villas of the merchants, 
who reeide here ; and command fine views of the 
sea and the islands of Gorgot*a, &c At the 
monastery on the summit is a miraculous portrait 
of the Madonna, about six centuries old. Victor 
Emmanuel landed here in 1860, after the annex- 
ation of Central Italy, and his progress hence to 
Florence and Piaccnza was one long triumph. 

There is a great trade carried on in silk, oil, 
straw hats, iron (from Elba), alabaster, wine, 
spirits, anchovies, coral, &c., besides general 
commodities. Large constructing dockyards of 
Orlando Bros. 

Routes. — By rail to Pisa, Lucca, Empoli, Siena, 
Florence, Cecina, Saline, Follonica, Ac; by steamer 
to Genoa, 9 hours ; Marseilles, 20 hours. (See 
Bradshaw's Continental Guide). 

From Leghorn the railway bends to the north, 
and then turns south to 

Colle Salvetti (Stat.) Population, 7,448. 
Junction of the line from Pisa. Followed by 

Fauglia and Orciano (Stat.) 

Acquabona (Stat-)» near the River Fine. 

Ceclna (Stat.), on the River Cecina. Here 
are smelting works for iron from Elba, and a branch 
railway tarns inland up the river to Saline and 
Volterra. 

[It is 18{ miles long; three trains daily. The 
stations are— 



118 



BRADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section S. 



Ponte Oinori, 4| mileg; and 

Volterra (Stat.) (4| miles), near which are 
extensive salt irorks and brine springs. These are 
a government monopoly, and prodnce a large 
revenue. Diligence from the station, about four 
miles, to 

VOLTERRA, on the site of Volaterroe, 

One of the most ancient and interesting cities of 
Etrnria, on a hill about 1,800 feet high, composed 
of soft marl and tufa, in which the ancient 
sepulchres were excavated, and whence so many 
Etruscan urns have been obtained. The liiil com- 
mands an extensive view over the M^iremmD (or 
marsh land of the coast), of Monte Catini (large 
copper mines), and of Elba, Capraja, and Corsica. 
Pi>pulatlon, 13,090. 

Volterra Is made up uf narrow streets snd many 
tower-looking houses, and is inclosed by walls, 
which a^c contained within the circuit of the fi]||t 
Etruscan walls. Of the»e there are some remains 
in the shape of massive uncemcnted blocks at 
Porta di Diana, and an arched gateway at Porta 
dcir Arco, having three liead^ on it, in good 
preservation. On the south side is a fort, or . 

Citadel, built 1^13 by the Duke of Athens. It 
contains thcMastio, or Maschio Tower, an old state 
prison of the Dukes of Tuscany, in which Lorenzini, 
who was confined here (168J-9i) by Coslmo III., 
wrote his work on geometry. 

The Palazzo Pubblico, the old seat of the Podestk, 
when Volten*a was a republic, is of the thirteenth 
century, and has a high tower, in which P. 
Ingliiarami, the Capitano, and his party, were 
BxmocAteil (\47'2) in an insurrection. 

At the Musco Nazionale arc the Library and 
Museum of Antiquities, including the Guamaoci 
collection of coins, bronzes, urns, MSS. The 
antiquities arc chiefly Etruscan; as gold omamems, 
gems, bronzes, coins, candelabra, vases, «kc., in 
terra cotta, but especially U^rns, or sarcophagi, 
to the number of 550, in which the other relics 
were placed, along with the ashes of the dead 
body after burning. These urns are of tufa and 
alabaster — rarely of terra cotta, and have been 
found in the sepulchres, or Jppogei^ cut in the rock 
on which the city stands. 

The entrance to each vault was down steps, to a 
doorway closed by a large stone, and having an 
upright 8ton«i or cippus placed before it, bearing 
a«i inscription. The urns were ranged on steps 
rising one above another along the sides of the 
vault, or piled up in the middle round a column. 
As many as forty to fifty urns have been found in 
one cAve. The urns have a lid, which sometimes 
rises like the roof of a house; they are carved with 
bas-reliefs of mytliological subjects, occasionally 
gilt and coloured, and have the names of ancient 
Etruscan or Roman families inscribed on them. 

Alabaster carving is the chief bufiness here. 

The Cathedral was founded 1120, enlarged by 

^Jifco/3 da risa, 22S4, and restored 1674. Among 

ff* jpa/n£/„g-a ^re S/grnoreWs Annunciation, and 

^''^^ol^o'a frcBcoea of the Ylrffln, In 3t. 



Octavian's Chapel is Settignano*8 statue of the 
saint (1525). 

The Baptistery of S. Giovanni is an octagon, built 
1283, on the site of a Roman temple. The fonts are 
bySansovino(ld02). 

3. Lino's Conventual Church, founded 1480, by 
Maffei, a theologian, contains his tomb and statue, 
by Silvio da Fiesoie. 

Casa Ricciarelli was the birthplace of Daniele 
da Volterra, a native of t his town, and a painter, 
who assisted M. Angeio at the Vatican. 

Some Etruscan tombs, in their original state, 
may be seen at Villa Inghirami. 

AI)out 7 miles west of Volterra are the Monte 
Catini and La Cava Copper Mines^ worked since 
the fifteenth century but of late diminished in 
production; and Monte Massi, 1,900 feet lii^h. 

Carriage should be taken from Volterra Station 
to RiPOMEBANCio, or Pomcrancc. near the iMgoni, 
or borax lakes of Monte Cerboli and Larderello, 
which takes name from its founder, an enter- 
prising Friinchman. Count Larderello, who estab- 
lished works here in 1818. The hot vapour Itself 
wliich issues from the soil is turned to account 
in the manufacture of boracic acid, which is ex- 
ported to England for glass-making, &c. I'he 
production is over 2,000 tons annually.] 

Leaving Cecina Station, on the main line, the 
rail comes to 

Castagneto (Stat.), and 

8. Vincenzo (Stat.) and CampigUa (Stat.). 

Near here a road parts oflf close along the coast, 
towards Elba, passing 

[PopuLONiA (6 miles), close to an old castle and 
the remains of the Etruscan town and port of 
Pupluna. Further on is Piombino (diligence from 
Campiglia), a small town (population, 3,900), 
once the l-.ead of a principality, at the comer of 
a peninsula, which is 6 miles from the nearest 
point of the 

ISLAND OF ELBA, 

And 14 miles from Porto Ferrajo, its chief town, 
sometime the residence of Napoleon I., upon hit 
abdication, from the end of May, 1814, to 26th 
February, 1815, when he loft for Cannes. Steamer 
from Piombino daily. 

It is the Roman Jlva, about 18 miles long, and 8 
to 10 broad, with several small bays, the best of 
which is that of Purto Ferrfyo, whicli Napoleon 
compared to Tot Bay, when he saw it in 1815 from 
the deck of the Northumberland. The. surface is 
hilly and bare, the highest point being Monte 
Capannc, 3,000 feet above the sea. Its rich iron 
mines at Rio Marina (Scotch Church here), which 
were worked by the Romans, are contained in a 
hill about 2 miles round, and 5G0 feet high, and 
yield 50 to 75 per cent of metal, the ore being 
smelted at Cechia, Follonica, &c., on the mainland. 
Here ancient bronze and stone implements, arrow 
heads, knives, and adzes were found, 1865. 

Population, 21,877; of whom 5,064 are at Porl9 
Ferrajo^ the capital, guarded by forts Falcone and 
Stella, wb\c\i'S(«^\«o\i «ai>gi««&VvVm«e\f by ^trep(^t)t- 



Route 25.] 



VOLTEBRA, ELBA, O&BETSLLO, CIYITA VBCCHIA. 



119 



ening. He also made a road across the island to 
Porte Longone (population, 1,200), whicti faces 
Tuscany. Napoleon was allowed to keep his title 
of Emperor ; and Marie Louiso that of Empress 
and Duchess of Parma ; while the members of his 
family were styled Princes. But the island was 
so placed as to be favourable for intrigue, as sub- 
sequent events proved. 

Elba is 30 miles from Bastia, in Corsica. The 
small islands around it are 

Capraja (16 miles north-west) ; Ptanosa^lO miles 
south, to which Agrippawas banished by Augustus; 
Formica, 10 miles south of this; and Monte Crisfe, 

12 miles south-east of it, the scene of Alexander 
Dumas's novel of the same name.] 

Returning toCampigUa (Stat.), near the river 
Comia, which descends from Monte Rotondo, with 
the town and its old castle on the left, we come to 

Follonica (Stat.), where the high road from 
Massa and Voltcrra falls in. Iron from Elba, about 
18 miles distant, is smelted here, but only from 
December to May, on account of the malaria. 

Massa, called Massa Maritima to distinguish it 
from Massa Ducale, is about 12 miles north-cast, 
and Itas a population of 13,200, and a catliedral of 
the thirteenth century. 

There are two road's from Follonica to Grosseto, 
one following the coast, the other striking inland. 
The distances along the coach route, are : Grilli, 

13 miles; Grosseto, 13 miles; Fontebranda, 15 
miles; Nunziatclli, 15 miles; Montalto, 14 miles; 
Corneto, 12 miles; CivitaVecchia, 12 miles. Taking 
the rail, the next place is 

Gavorrano (Stat.) Then across the Bruna to 
HontepeECall (Stat.), junction of a line from 
Siena, to 

Grosseto (Stat.), on the Ombrone, and the 
road to Siena (50 miles by coach). Here the rail 
from Siena comes in via Asciano and Torreoidrl 
(Route 26). Grosseto (population, 7,000), the capital 
of the Maromma, is 8 miles from the sea. The site 
of Rusellte^one of the twelve Etruscan cities, on the 
Via Claudia, is near this place. 

Leaving MagHone on the left, the rail passes 
Talamone (Stat.), near Talamone Point, then 
Albegna (Stat.) on the Albenga, and reaches 

OrbetellO (Stat.) a small fortified town 
(population, 3,607), strikingly placed in the middle 
of a salt lake, near Monte Argentario, a hilly penin- 
sula, the ancient i/on4 ArgentaHus, vfhh-h separates 
it from the sea. Its highest point, Trc CrocI, or 
Three Crosses, is 2,000 feet above sea level, and 
Porto Ercole is on the south side. About 8 miles 
west of it is the Island of Gigllo (population, 1.900), 
the Iffilium of the Romans ; and h miles south of 
it is Gianutri, which they called Dianum, 

Leaving Orbetello, the rail and road pass the ^ite 
of Cosa and the remains of walls, and follow the 
l>orders of the salt lake of Buano. 8 miles long, 
oloso to the sea. Across the old Tuscan border, 
and into the former PcUrimony of ^. Petet\ row 
mmexed to the kingdom of Italy. 



Montalto (Stat.) On the River Flora, the 
ancient Forum Aurelii, which had a Papal Custom 
House. 

Up the river is Volci or Vulci, a famous Etruscan 
town, which defied Rome, after the defeat of its 
allies, but was finally subdued 280 B.C., by the 
Consul Conmcanius. In 1828, upwards of 2,000 
urns were discovered by the Prince of Canino, in 
its necropolis. In one tomb was the skeleton of a 
warrior, with a casque on liis head and a child be- 
tween his knees. Musignano and Canino, where 
these treasures were collected, are a little further 
inland, not far from Toscanella, or Tuscania. 
another Etruscan city. 

From Montalto the line passes 

Corneto (Stat.), close to Tarquinii, the seat 
of the proud Tarquins, of which there were traces 
down to the fourteenth century. Above 2,000 
tombs have been opened in this neighbourhood, 
many of the contents of which tire dispersed 
throughout Europe, but there is a good collection 
here at the Museo, and the necropolis is worth 
visiting. The objects found In some of the tombs 
are now at Rome. Hence (12 miles) to 

CIVITA VECCHIA (Stat.) 

Chief port of the Roman province, from which 
the rail to Rome is continued. Population 12,000. 

Hottls: Orlando; Europa; both indifferent. 

Refreshment room at the railway station, where 
breakfast, &c., can be had at moderate charges. 
An omnibus attends the station, outside the ram- 
parts, to convey passengers to the town, 26 cents., 
carriage, \ Ir. to 1 Ir. Boat hire, embarking or 
disembarking in the Harbour, J Ir., besides 1 Ir. 
for baggage. All the steamers enter the harbour. 
I^anding by sea, luggage for Rome should bo 
plombe to save re-examinatioh. 

Resident English Consul amd American Consular 
Agent. 

Conveyances.— To Rome, by rail. If hour; by 
coach, to Viterbo, 36 miles. By steamer, to Naples, 
12 hours; Leghorn, 12 hours; Genoa, 24 hours; 
Marseilles, 36 hours. 

Civita Vecchia is on the site of Centum CeVx, on 
the Via Aurelia, which havhig been ruined by the 
Saracens, was restored under its present name, 
signifying Old Town. Its hai'bour, the ancient 
Portus Trajani. founded by Trajan, was created a 
free port by Clement XII. An armed schooner, 
which represented the whole Papal navy, was for- 
merly stationed here. The inner harbour covers 
5 acres. An Outer basin is formed by two moles — 
the Becch'crc mole 900 feet long, and the Quaran- 
tine mole 480 feet, with a Brc.ikwater of 1,0,00 
feet across the mouth, carrying a Liirhthouse. Fort 
Angclo is near the Arsenal. Sulphur and alum 
works at Tolf a. 

The French army of occupation landed here in 
1819, and fought its way to Rome. It was the seat 
of a cardinal-blsho^^a.w<\.«w^^\^5g,-»NS.'s^\ ^^^"^^^.^ 



120 



BBADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



office, a Maseam of Etntscan and other antiquities, 
a fort desifrned by M. Angelo, and a large convict 
prison. The former Roman States, after tlic 
annexation of Umbria, the Marches, and Romagna, 
to the new kingdom ot Italy, came to be restricted 
to the Patrimony of St. Peter, and the provinces of 
yiterbo,Sabina, and the Campagna; a space about 
100 miles long, 40 broad, having Uome in the 
middle, and a population of 400,000 (instead of 
three millions). All this space, including Orvieto, 
Temi, and Rieti, with the City, is annexed to 
the kingdom of Italy. 

From Civita Vecchia, by rail, to Rome, 45^ miles. 
The stations are as follows :— 



Miles. 

Santa Marinella 6^ 

Santa Severa ll| 

Furbara 14| 

Palo 20i 

Palldoro 24^ 



Miles. 

Maccarese 29^ 

PonteGalera 36^ 

[Branch to Finmicino.] 

Magliana 41^ 

Rome 45| 



The line for the first half of the distance runs 
near the flat coast and the Via Aurelia. *'The 
interior is a succession of swelling hills and wide 
plains, desolate and poorly cultivated; with a few 
cabins and buffaloes, marked here and there by a 
dilapidated castle or a ruined mediceval fortress.** 

Santa Marinella (Stat.) The sea and the 
Alban Hills come into view. It has a castle on 
the site of Punicum. 

Santa Severa (Stat.)* near an old castle, on 
the site of Pyrgi, a town pillaged by Dionysius, the 
tyrant. The Sasso Hills are on the left. 

Furbara (Stat.) To the left is Cervetrl, 
under a hill, the site of Agilla or Csefe, an Etruscan 
city, where remains exist. It stands on a stream 
which runs down to Ad Turret, now Torre Flavia, 
on the coast. Towers on the shore, anciently 
erected for defence against the corsairs. 

Palo (Stat.) A fishing village, near Ahium, 
on the 8ca, which exlMted down to the tenth 
century. Near here is the seaside resort of Ladis- 
poli, whither the Romans repair in summer for 
bathing. 

Palldoro (Stat.), the centre of many Etruscan 
ruins. Here the Aurelian Way strikes off direct 
to Rome. 

Maccarese (Stat.), on the Aro, or Arrone, 
near a scat oftlio RosplgliosI family. 

Ponte Oalera (Stat.), on a branch of the 
Tihcr, where the Via Campana and the branch 
rail go off to Porto and Fiumicino, about miles 
distant, near the site of I'ortus Trajanl. The line 
hero runs near the Tiber to 

Magliana (Stat.) After this, the new Church 
of St. Paolo fuori le Mura and the Alban Hills 
appear, and the lino termUiates near the Baths of 
X>JDcletian, in the city of 

JIfame (Koaie S^.) 



Florence, to Empoll, Siena. Asdano, Ohiiu^ 
Flcnlle, Orvieto, Bolsena, and Rome. 

FLORENCE (Stat.), 

The ancient Florentia^ called Firenze by the 
Italians, and styled the ** Flower of all cities, and 
the city of all flowers." The flower which figures 
in the city arms is a ffiglio, or lily ; also seen im- 
pressed on the gold florin, or fiwino, which was 
coined here. The great white iris is the true fior- 
dilisa (fleur-de-lis), which figures on the compass 
card. Population (188dX 181,000, including en- 
virons. 

HoteU:— 

Hotel d*Italie. 

Grand Hotel de la ViUe, comfortable and well 
situated ; lift. 

Grand Hotel New York, Long' Amo, a first- 
rate honse. 

Grand Hotel de Milan, 12, Rue de Cerretani, 
close to Cathedral, and near the Station. 

Hotel Royal de la Grande Bretagne. 

Hotel de TAmo. 

Grand Hotel Continental de la Paix, Lang* 
Amo Nnovo, excellent first-class hotel. 

Hotel Porta Rossa, very good. The proprietor, 
Mr. Bassetti, speaks English. 

Hotel Vittoria, great comfort, beautiful gardens. 

Grand Hotel de Russle, well situated on Piazza 
Manin and Lung* Amo. 

Hotel Minerva; Hotel Helvetia; Hotel et Pen- 
sion du Sud. 

Grand Hotel Royal de la Pals; Washington; 
Pension Suisse; d'ltalia. 

Hotel et Pension des lies Britannlques, Rue de 
la Scala. 

Hotel de Rome, 8, Piazza Marie Novella. 

Pension Bellini, 22, Lung' Amo Nnovo. 

Pension Pochat 

Pension Girard, 5, Via Montebello, Palazzo Levi. 

Hotel Monte-Bello, Via Curtatone. 

Hotel Victoria; Hotel Cavour. 

Hotel Royal de TArao; Hotel de Londres. 

Hotel de I'Arno, in Lung' Amo ; Hotel Monaco. 

Hotel and Pension Couronne d'Angleterre. 

(irand Hotel et Pension Anglo- Americain. 

Restaurants: DesJBtrangers and Brasserie, Place 
Manin, close to the Hotels de Russie, de la Ville, 
and de la Paix; Delia Patria, Stella, D'ltalia, 
Doncy, Etraria, Ac; Delia Luna or Rossini, near 
Palazzo Vccchlo. 

Caffes: Doney; d'ltalia; Elvetico, Ac. 

Apartments: chiefly on Lung' Amo Acciajolf, 
opposite Palace Pitti; between Borgognisanti 
and the Casclne; and Piazzas d'Azeglio and delP 
Indcpcndenza. 

Pension, at Mad. Brunettl's, 20, Via Nationale. 

Bankers: Messrs. Haskard and Son, 8, Piazza 
S. Gaetano (Palaazo Antinori). 

Post Ofiee, at the Uffizi. Teleffraph: 12, Via 
del Proconsolo. 

Resident Sngli^ and American Consult, 



;e 26.] VLOSBNOB. ISI 

'Uih CAureASflrefMinthenew English Church, ] hoiues have sprung up in the ICaglio quarter, and 
I La Marmora, behind San Marco. | on the embank cient in Lyn g* Arno CFoicciardini. 

' uong the hills ontsida 

ne, the Senate was in 
;e of Arcbiyes in the 
Chamber of Deputies 
'.he Palazzo Vecchio. 
the Riccardi Palace. 
)pal Semmary. These 
licipal and other uses. 

TO in the midst of a 

ity and fei-tility, and 

,» fourteenth ceritury, 

' iire, and are pierced 

six principal roads. 

le the walls. On the 

stches to the foot of 

15 miles, and rising 

rht of 3,200 feet at 

ist is Fiesole, on a hill, 

round, with gardens 

leBoboli Gardens and 

e of another hill, to 

nt points of view for 

he plan of the city 

listance are the blue 

ited with old cities, 

le times of the early 

lan Rome. Beneath 

its noble buildings. 

3f Santa Croce, the 

:e; more to the left 

»f Florence, with its 

panile, and the roof 

ore to the left, the 

lat of Santa Maria 

mo flowing towards 

bteorth. TheBoboll 

iday and Thursday 

s are obtained from 

7, Villa Mozzi, and 

d far beyond the 
which are now 
. The oldest part 
bank of the Arno, 
[ere narrow streets, 
lildings or towers 
lilt in a half-mili- 
he name of Floren- 
)ulcnt old days of 
r and aristocratic 
wer used to fight 
alace to palace. 

Churches and up- 
._ .-,«wv u«/wo«A. ^^russes are painted on 



v« A iMUKJiy, nnoer tba protection of Austria, 
ow absorbed in the kingdom of Italy, 
m the time the city was temporarily chosen 
the new capital, it has become f uUer than 
lodgings have risen, new hotels have been 
d, and the traffic has greatly increased, l^eir 



them, to protect them from "dirt and the devil." 
The streets are flagged with blocks of pictra forte 
from the hills to the south of Florence. 

The former Walls, called il primo C«cc\Nis» <i3^ 
gates only x«!tt»A.\i^,^«e^ ^^^'^^^'^'^'^^t^.^^^ro 



120 



BBADBHAW'S ITALY. 



[S«otioi 



office, A Maseam of Etrascan and other antiquities, 

a fort desiftned by M. Angelo, and a large convict 

prison. The former Roman St ates, aftj 

annexation of Umbria,*^ 

to the now kingdom ot 

to the Patrimony of St 

Viterbo,8abina, and th 

100 miles long, 40 bl 

middle, and a popula 

three millions). All tl 

Temi, and Rletl, wit 

the kingdom of Italjr- 

From Civita Vecchla 
The stations are as foil 

Mile 

Santa Marinella 4 

Santa Severa 11 

Furbara 14 

Palo 31 

Palidoro 9i 

The Ihie for the fi ir* 
near the flat coast slU 
Interior is a succession 
plains, desolate and poc 
cabins and baffalocs, m 
dilapidated castle or e^ 

Santa Marinella. < 

Alban Hills come into 
the site of Punicum. 



FlorenoettoJ 



Santa Severa (S'- 

the site of Pyrgi^ a toivx» 
tyrant. The Sasso H 1 ^ 

Furbara (Stat.) ^ 

nndcr a hill, the site ox ^ 
city, where remains qjcv 
which runs down to A dt 
on the coast. Towe*"* 
erected for defence aj^"*** 

Palo (Stat.) A ft^* 

on the sea, which e:?^*' 
century. Near here i* * 
poll, whither the Rorr»* 
bathing. 

PaUdoro (Stat.), tl»^ 

ruins. Here the Aur«3** 
to Rome. 

Maccarese (Stat.>^^ 



*1 



near a scat of t/jc Rasp 

Ponte Galera (0^' 

Tiber, where the Viit 
rail go off to Porto aJ> ^ 
distant, near the site o^ 
here runs near the Tily^^^ 

Magllana (Stat.) ..«:::SVira and the Alban Hills 
of 8t. Paolo f uori 1© 5rmr»lnate8 near the Batha of 
appear, and the lino t^^ J 
2>Joc}otinn, Jn the cirvr ^^ 



Bankert: Messrs. Haakard and Son, «,. 

a Oaetono (PaUwso Antlnori). 

pSIt^l^ *t «« ™ri. Telegraph: 1 



•■ Uinnars. behind Bu Muco. 



MHJoI (Tuifa. monlhly. 
Steamsm ttoa Legbom 



see Sradi/UHC'i Cmti- 
io Leehom ud U Bluni, 






*CJllf/ObiKt 

Bplrlla, PnlDii 






century:— Olollo, T, Old 
OrcA^d, S- Aretlno, S. M 
Pm G. Ararelico, P- Ucoll 
LIppl. B. Gozioll, PollBj 



)i. OndJl, 



P. GUlriandaJu, C. 
I, Ftjlpplno Lippi. 

VemKchlo. ' isih conlaiy':— Abbertinflll, M, An- 

- - B. Pernxil. A. del Snrto, J. pBcchiarotto, i. 

ntonno, A. Bronitno, BiUTlatt. nih cra- 



:roiil, P.d' 



DTI.— ISth ecntnry:— Nl .... _. . 
L. Qh'llwrtl, Donslello, U della Robbl 
U.'di Majnno, A. del PallKJ^iuIa. A. Ve 






Theatre Bad Offire ol 
ItheUtHil. TheCbai 
irel^n Offlce, In Ihe 



c Duomo. tho St, Pbd 



8. MlniBto,*A™irl ObBorvalory, Villa Moiil, and 



tts^tZ: 



mostly replaced by pr 






le bnlldbiei or tuwen 



Bpeoed, and Ibe UhSBb hu greiiCl/ Increued. New I m u to \niiln^'i^<:JVi;fQ t.: 



122 



BEADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



the river, and the secondo Cerchio, Le. the ancient 
walls of 1087, the extremities of which were at Ponte 
alle Grazie and Ponte alia Carraja. The banks of 
the river, which is muddy and shallow, except at 
the floods, are lined with quays called the Lungo 
d'Anio or Lung* Arno, stretching up and down as 
far as the walls. Those between the Carraja Bridge 
and the handsome new Cascine quarter, towards 
the junction of the Mugnone, are a favourite 
promenade. 

Bridges. — ^There are six bridges, including two 
wire suspension bridges above and below the city. 
Ponte alle Oratie^ or Ponto di Rubaconte, the 
oldest and southernmost bridge, was built 1257, so 
solidly as to have resisted the floods which have 
undermined the others. It has some small houses 
on the piers, and the houses between it and Ponte 
Vccchio are ancient. *Ponte Vecchio, rebuilt 1345 
by T. Oaddl, is lined with small jewellers* shops 
and houses, over which runs Vasari's gallery, form- 
ing a communication between the Pittl Palace and 
the UflUzi and Palazzo Vecchio. Ponte Santa 
Trinita, built by B. Ammanati, 1559, is the best of 
all, on three elliptic arches, one of which is 90 
feet span. Ponte alia Carraja, rebuilt 1334 by Fra 
Bracetti, and restored 1557 by Ammanati. Below 
this is one of the wire Suspension Bridges con- 
necting the Cascine with the opposite bank, near 
Piazza le Vittorlo Emanuele. 

Water is supplied by pump wells, by Artesian 
wells in the Santa Maria Novella and S. Marco 
squares, and by fountains in Santa Crocc, Ac, fed 
by an aqueduct from Monterezzi, near Fiesole. 

Time is still reckoned by some old clocks up to 
34 hours, beginning at Ave Maria or sundown 
(about 6 p.m.) 

Gates. — The gates are tower-like structures, 
pierced by an archway, and connected by broad 
Boulevards, or Vlale, named after the reigning 
house, as Vlnlc Vit.-Em,. Vlale Umberto, Ac. 

Porta a. Gallo, so called from a convent which 
stood here, is on the Bologna Road. Here is a 
triumphal arch to the Emperor Francis I., built 
1739 by a Lorraine arcliltect, with a frescoe by 
Ghirlandajo. 

Porta Pinti^ towards Fiesole, with some early 
frescoes by B. Daddl. Near the Protestant Ceme- 
tery. Porta alia Croce, on the Casentino Road. 
Madonna by Ghirlandajo. 

Porta S. Niccolb, with an old tower, built 1824-7, 
and Poi'ta S. Miniato, are across the river, on the 
south side. The drive from here to Porta Romana, 
round the Vlale delle Colli, is worth taking. 

Porta S. Giorgio, near the Belvedere Fort, or 
Fortczza dl S. Georgio, but shut up. 

Porta Romana, built 1327, on the Poggio Road, 
near the Boboll Gardens. In an old house near 
this, Mrs. E. Browning, the poetess, lived and died. 

Porta S. Frediano, on the Pisa Road, near the 
Jews' Cemetery. Porta alPrato, built i284, near 
the Cascine and railway stations. Fresco by 

^^JZ"'^^^*^"^ ''^"' Pistoja Station and the For- 
«w a^jfitaao, ordiS. OJoranfii Battiafi^. 



Open PlaeeSi or PiazzL—The most important 
and interesting is the *Piazza della Signoria^ or 
Piazza Oranduca, the central point of Florence, sur- 
rounded with ancient buildings and works of 
art, &c. On the south side is the Palazzo Vcc- 
chio and its high tower, with the statue of Cosimo I., 
and the Neptime fountain. Here were (pro tcm) 
the Chamber of Deputies and the Foreign Oflice. 
Facing this, the Uguccione Palace and the Post 
Office. On the south side, the Loggia de' Ijanzi 
and Its groups of statuary. Close to It are the Uf^zi 
or Florence Gallery, with its gems of art, the 
Podestk, and the Vecchio and Nuovo markets for 
fruit, straw-plait, flowers, &c. 

Piazza del Duomo, In which are the cathedral, 
the campanile, and baptlsteiy ; with the statues of 
Amolfo and Brunellcschl, and Dante's Stone. The 
western prolongation of this piazza Is called the 
Piazza S. Giovanni. 

Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, near that church 
and the Plstoja Station. It has two obelisks rest- 
ing on tortoises In the middle, and an arcade on 
stone pillars on one side. Hero the races of St. 
Jolm's Eve formerly took place. The IMazza 
Vecchla is on the cast side. 

Piazza di S. Lorenzo, facing that church. 

Piazza Maria Antonia, near the Fortezza 8. 
Giovanni Battlsta; a modern square, the largest 
and most regular in Florence, now called ih(i Piazza 
dell Jndipendenza. 

Piazza di S. Marco, with a statue of General Fanti. 

Piazza M. Angelo, a beautiful drive outside the 
Oltramo, with a cast of the great sculptor's "David" 
on it. Piazza Cavour, with a triumphal arch. 

Piazza delV Annunziata, in the north-cast, near 
the Gherardesca Garden, is surrounded by loggie 
or double arcades, on Corinthian columns. Facing 
the church is the Spedale dcgl' Innoccnti, or 
Foundling Hospital, by Brunelleschl. Here is 
G. da Bologna's equestrian statue of Ferdinand I., 
and bronze fountains. 

Piazza di Santa Croce, facing that church, and 
surrounded by old houaes, decorated with frescoes. 
Here is Pazzi's statue of Dante. 

Piazza Manin, on the Lmigamo Nuova, with* a 
statue of Goldoni, the poet. 

Piazza del Grano, or Loggia del Grano ; an Arcade, 
by S. Tirati, 1619. Piazza di Santa Trinith, near 
the Trinitk Bridge. It has a granite pillar from 
the Baths of (jaracalla, the gift of Plus IV. to 
Cosimo I., surmounted by del Taddi's porphyry 
Justice, with bronze drapery. 

Piazza Pitti, on the south side of the Amo, faces 
the Plttl Palace. Piazz'i S. Spirito and Piazza del 
Carmine are on the same side of the river. 

ChnrClies.— 1. The *Duomo, or cathedral of 
Santa Maria del Fiore, that is, of the Flower, or 
Red Lily, which figures in the city anus, and 
corresponds with its name. It was designed by 
the republic to be the largest and most sumptuous 
building that could be invented, in order that it 
might correspond with a "very great heart," 
because origbiating in the mind of most of the 
oiUsensxmVted l««<iV\iw Vuoxiew^^ll (di farle cor* 



Boate 26.] 



FLOBBKCB — ^DUOXO. 



123 



rispondente ad an cnore che vien f atto gn^ondissimo, 
perch^ composto dair animo di pin cittadini uniti 
faisiema in un sol vol ere). Began 1298, by 
Amolfo di Lapo, pupil of Cimabue, and continued 
183'i, by Giotto, who built a &ie marble front, 
which was demolished 1586 by the Medici. Ser 
Filippo Brunellcschi, a native of the city, finished 
the church, and was the author of the great Dome, 
which M. Angelo used to look at with unbounded 
admiration, and say it could never be surpassed, 
and which is only excelled by his own at St. Peter's. 

The walls arc* cased with a thin veneer of black 
and white marble, and adorned inside and out with 
many statues. Length, 600 feet, by 310 feet 
through the transept: width of the nave, 128 feet, 
and height, 163 feet. There arc three great doors in 
front, and two on each side, all richly carved. 
Among the Madonnas on the front is the Madonna 
del Fiore, by Giovanni di Pisa, with Ghirlandajo's 
mosaic of the Assumption. A new Fa(adey by 
De Fabris, was completed in 1887. G. Gaddi*s 
mosaic of the Coronation of the Virgin is over 
the middle door within the church 

The interior is of dark mottled stone, with a 
variegated marble pavement, inlaid with lilies in 
red, black, and white marble, designed by F. di 
Son Gallo (in the nave), and M. Angcio (round the 
choir). It is lit by narrow stained windows, by a 
Lnbeck artist, 1434, from designs by Ghiberti and 
Donatello. This produces a dim religious light, 
which becomes almost darkness under the closed 
dome. The vast nave is flanked by four great 
pointed arches on each side of the middle aisle 
(55 feet wide), which are carved with armorial 
bearings. The windows of the side aisles are 
small, and those of the clerestory are mere circular 
holes, and the vaults arc ill-shaped. The walls are 
not painted, and look cold and gloomy. The choir 
is octagonal, enclosed by an Ionic colonnade, and 
corresponds in shape with the Dome above, which 
is also eight-sided, and double-cased (one dome 
within another). Its interior is painted with fres- 
coes, by Vasari and F. Zuccbcro. It is J 40 feet 
diameter inside and 100 feet high. 

From the pavement to the top of the cross is 350 
feet. There is a hole in the top through which the 
sun shining in line with a mark on the pavement 
of the north transept, shows the direction of the 
meridian, first traced in 14f8 by Toscanelli. In 
the choir, finished 1668, are bas-reliefs by Bandl- 
nelli and his pupils. Behind the high altar is a 
Pieti, the last work (unfinished) of M. Angelo. 

Among the monuments are the following: — 
Giotto, the painter, with a portrait bust by Majano. 
Brunelleschi, with a bust, and epitaph by Marzap- 
pini, "Poet and Secretary of the Republic;" 
which tells the visitor to look at the cupola, to 
judge of the great architect's genius —something 
like the "clrcumspico" at St. Paul's. Ticiiio, the 
friend of Lorenzo de' Medici ; that Lorenzo who 
on 26th May, 1478, when his brother Giuliano was 
killed at the high altar by the Pazzi, escaped 
death by flving into the old sacristy. Portrait of 
U^nii, by iticbeUnc^ ne#r the pjioir ii^ |he noTt)i 



aisle, placed there by decree of the republic^ 1465. 
Near this is a bust of Amolfo di Lapo, the archi- 
tect; then a fresco of Sir John Hawkwood, or 
Johanne Acutus, as he is styled, an Essex man and 
soldier of fortune, who died 1393. He is called 
Ancud, Auchovod, Aguto, in the current histories. 

In the five chapels round the tribune are statues 
by Bandinclli, Rovezzano, and other early sculp- 
tors. The door of the sacristy near it is by L. 
della Robbia. These chapels, with their pictures 
and other relics, are contained in the three east 
apses which surround the base of the dome. 

On Easter Eve the church is crowded with far- 
mers, to watch the motion of an artificial dove, 
which at the Gloria in Excelsis glides along the 
nave on a rope, sets fire to a combustible car (pro- 
vided by the Pazzi family) in the street, and then 
flies whizzing back. All the hopes of the pious 
farmers for the harvest are fixed on the safe return 
of this dove to the altar; according to the saying 
*'Quando va bene la columbhia, va bene 11 Fioi 
rentino." 

At the comer of the principal entrance is Giotto's 

*Campaxiile, or detached belfry, begun 1334, 
and finished by T. Gaddi; a light and elegant 
tower, 42 feet square, relieved by octagonal pro- 
jections at the comer; covered like the church 
with slices of variegated marbles, and adorned 
with fifty-four bas-reliefs and sixteen statues. It 
is in four storeys (lighted by windows) *290 feet 
high, and was to have carried a spire which would 
have made it 90 feet higher; the reliefs, of Bible 
subjects, being in the ground storey. It is ascend«i 
by 415 steps. It is adorned with statutes of 
Evangelists, Prophets, Patriarchs, and Sibyls, 
with scries of bas-reliefs, the whole by Donatello, 
Niccolb d'Arezzo, Giotto, A. Pisano, and L. della 
Robbia. They say here a thing is as '^beautiful 
as the Campanile." Macchiavelli relates that when 
its six bells sounded at mid-day, they would bring 
together 135,000 armed men in the course of a few 
hours. Facing the church and Campanile is the 
Battistero, or 

* BaptlSter7> on the site of a Temple ot Mars, in 
which all the children of the city are christ^nedf 
the water being blessed by the archbishop twice i 
year. It is an octagonal building of the thirteenth 
century, 108 feet diameter, rebuilt by A. de Lapo, 
on the site of what was at first the Cathedral, 
founded in the sixth century by the Lombards. 
It is cased inside with marble, with a low dome, 
on sixteen granite pillars from the older structure, 
and lined with mosaics, by A. Tafii, and other 
artists. The three beautiful bronze Doors are 
covered with reliefs of the History of St. John the 
Baptist, and other scriptural subjects; one by 
Andrea di Pisa, 1330, the other two by Ghiberti 
(1410-24), which M. Angelo said ought to be 
the Gates of Paradise. At the middle door are 
two columns of porphyry given by the Pisans to 
Florence, for protecting Pisa, in 1117, while its 
citiz^is wore employed in the conquest of MaVQr<:«w. 
Close by thte 'ww* %«s«b.., ^\»!C^ XsXsSc^n "*. nx«<$^ 



1S4 



BRADSHAW'S ITALT. 



their final triumph OTer Pita ; namdy, part of an 
iron chain, with which the Pisans used to block up 
their harbour. Thig, like the one carried off by 
the Genoese, has been returned to the Pisans, hi 
token of a more brotherly state of things in Italy. 
There is a St. John the Baptist over the altar, with 
some bas-reliefs on the railings. On the black and 
white floor is a mosaic of the sun and zodiac, by 
S. Strozzi, the astrologer; with a sentence, "En 
giro torte Sol ciclos ct rotor igne," which reads 
the same both ways, and signifies the "sun drives 
on oblique his fiery car." 

In front of the Baptistery is a pillar erected in 
1880, to commemorate a miracle which accom- 
panied the removal of the relics of Bishop Zanobi. 
Behind it is the Bigallo Orphan Hospital, of the 
fourteenth century. On the north side of the 
Duomo are Pampaloni's statues of Amolfo di Lapo 
and Brunelleschi ; the latter looking up at his 
church. Near these, a Stone called the " Sasso di 
Dante,'' on which the poet used to sit, is built 
into the wall of a house. The large open Piazza 
near the Cathedral presents an especially gay 
scene on any of the chief festivals. 

. To the west of the Baptistery is the Archbishop's 
Palace. On the south side of the Campanile is 
the Oratory of the Brothers of the Misericordia, 
who perform their pious functions in robes having 
cowls with apertures for the eyes only. 

2. * Santa Croce, belonging to the Black Friars, 
is the Pantheon of Florence, the " holy precincts" 
in which Galileo, M. Angelo, Machiavelli, and 
Alfieri are buried. 

"Here repoM 
Angelo's, Alferl's bones, fvnd his 
The starry Galileo's, with his woes ; 
Here Machiavelli 's earth returned to whenceitrose. "—Syron. 

Begun, 1294, in the Germano-Tuscan style, by 
Amolfo, and restored by Vasari, except the new 
fafade, the first stone of which was laid by Pio 
Nono, '22nd August, 1857. The last is from Cro- 
naca*s desi^^n.s; and was mostly done at the cost 
of an English resident. The Church is 490 feet 
long. Many marble slabs are in the pavement, 
and some ancient frescoes are at the east end. 
On the portal is Donatello's bronze statue of 
St. Louis, of Toulouse. Stained rose window, over 
the central door, by Ghiberti. In the 

Second, or Buonarotti Chapel, on the right — 
Monument of M. Angelo, with his portrait looking 
towards the dome, and statues of Painting, Sculp- 
ture, and Architecture. -Vasari's Crucifixion. 
Monument of Lanzi, author of the History of 
Painting. Then follows Ricci' s monument of Dante, 
with figures of Italy and poetry. His body lies at 
Ravenna. Monument of Alfieri, by Canova, at 
the cost of the Countess of Albany. Monument of 
Macfiiavelli, by J. Spinazzi, erected at the cost 
of Lord Cowper, in 1787. Castagno's monument of 
the Cavalcanti; and Donatello's Annunciation. 
Xossa}}oo'a jnonnment of Leonardo Bruni, the 
^atOautaa. SoseJa/'g remains, transferred hither 
froaii'ar/s, jssz, wUI be covered by. a monument 



L'Seetion t. 

Going on round the transepts are the followiiig 
chapels : — 

Chapel of the iS^cratTien^.— Santarelli's monument 
of the Countess of Albany (died 1824), widow of 
Charles Stuart. Vasari's Last Supper. L. della 
Robbia's statues of St. Bernardino and St. Dominic. 

Baroneelli or Oiugni Chapel.— Freacoea by T. 
Gaddi. Bandinelli's Pieth. 

JIfedici C%ape/.— *Giotto'8 Madonna Incoronata. 

Rinuccini Chapel.— S&cristy, and Velluti ChapeL 
Frescoes by A Gaddi, and others of the school. 

Bonaparte Chapel. — Monuments of the wife and 
daughter ("Charlotte B. digne de son nom") of 
Joseph Bonaparte, whose monument also is here, 
but his remains are in the crypt. 

Peruzzi C%ape/.— Del Sarto's altar-piece of the 
Virgin and Saints. 'Giotto's fine frescoes. 

Bardi Chapel (next to the high altar)— Bronze 
inscription to the Florenthie citizens, "who laid 
down their lives for Italy, at Curtatone and Mon- 
tanara, 29th May, 1848." (See Route 18.) 'Giotto's 
grand frescoes. 

Behind the liigh altar are A. Gaddi's frescoes 
and stained windows. 

In the Socrix^j/— frescoes, ancient missals, and 
fine cabinets. 

Among the Chapels, on the left of the altar, are 
the 

Ricasoli Chapel, belonging to Baron Ricasoli. 
Painthigs by Sabattelli. 

Pulci Chapel. — B. Daddi's frescoes. 

St. Silvestro Chapel. — Giottino's frescoes. Monu- 
ment of B. de Bardi. 

Niccolini Chapel. — Bronzini's Coronation of the 
Virgin. Figures of the Virtues and Sibyls. 

St. Ludovico Chapel. — Donatello's Crucifix. 
Monuments of the Bardi. 

Borghete or Saloiate Chapel. — Countess Czarto- 
ryski's Monument, by Bartullini. 

Among the latest memorials are thoSe dedicated 
to N. Tommaseo, the friend of Manin, the defender 
of Venice and Carlo Botta, the historian. 

On the left of the nave are — Monuments of 
Cocchi, the philosopher, and R. Morghen, the 
artist; Vasari's Descent of the Holy Ghost; 
Bartolini's monument of Fossombroni; Vasaii's 
Unbelief of St. Thomas; Ricci's monument of 
Signorini; Foggini's monument of Galileo, with 
his bust, carved in 1737. His remains were left in 
unconsccrated ground for more than a century. 
Da Settegnano's monument of Marsuppini, in the 
fifteenth century style. Monument of FilicfOa, 
the poet, author of "Italia! oh, Italia! thou so 
crowned!" and other fine sonnets; Bronzini's 
Descent from the Cross. The marble pulpit is 
carved with Majano's bas-reliefs. 

In the cloisters adjoining are the Pazzi Chapel, 
by Brunelleschi, with the Four Evangelists and 
Twelve Apostles. L. della Robbia's terra cottas ; 
and some frescoes by the Giotto school; including 
T. Gaddi's Last Supper, in the refectory. 

Near the Santa Croce are the Piaaza and houses 
of the PeruisV, omtk^ «\i^ ot «iBAimm uiiphitheatre. 





or Dtlwr nhnrehH Uh loDowtdB m tbs moM 


The nibjHsta of tU •Mtaa, bsfiiuilnB on the 
left iraU orths cbmKl, are aafalloni-llaucclai 


». S.Amimillo, D*u PorU nils Croca Here 
CtuUce. Tomb ol A. Tamicchio. Cinoji;. bj 


Eipnliion of Adam and Ere. Llppl: St. Paid 
Vl.moBai.PeteriiiPrlKn. Mua^elo: Chriat and 
the Tribnte Money. The laat of the Apostles la ■ 


Hlno da Fieiole. 


Dortialt of the palnleT. Llnpl: ReelotliiiiaTounc 




Uan to Ufe.be^^byMasacelo. Lippit -St. fetar 
PraachlDK before Nero. Masaccloi SkkCoradl^ 


del Servi. [onnded In iba tlilrteenth centory. 


the Apostle's Shadow (portrait of MasoUno to the 




ilebtof St. Feter). Uauccio: Bt.PeterBaptlilnii 


OMlUdomn, the coionHRrtad oourt or atrlura in 


and St. Peter QlTlng Aiwa. Maaullno: St. Peter 


IrantbelngstthsctwtarihePncdfMiill;. At the 


Curing the Lame Man, and BecoTerlpg Petronllla. 


eirCDlir ea>t end ue MTeinl rlchly-decorited 








JVmoim. chiefly by Del Sarto, which run It Biiiong 


Adam and Eve In Paradise. UppI: St. Petal 






Theywereenrayodln l»3iM,'b7AI=hiBrl. Hl^ 
cclebntedHidonnidel Bacco, rather faded, tn the 




of St. Andrea Corainl, In tbe CoreluL Chapel: 


Sem Clolacar, D u called because BL Jo^ph 
leaoi on a »ck. Within are the fellowlng 


Qhlrlandajo'a Holy Supper, apd other frescoea. In 



(thirteenth cantary). believed to be a mlracolaiu 
rlotnre done by angwia. Head of Chrlii, by Del 

ItmuU CaotKl.— P. Paroglno'i If 
tbroned. 

Veraiiie del Soeeorio CIvatl.—Q. 6 
cmiAIi and bm-nllefa. 

BmiUiieUi CAoptJ,— BandlnoUi's m 

««dW CAapa/.— - - 



e Cemetery Church, 1 



B. Qallo't 



Bt. iMcia CAapa.—W< 
AHorl, Vaaatl, *c TbePucci . 
St. Sabaatian, only shown by apeclal permlsilon 

*. sa. Ajwuo/i, near Ponle tcocbio, acroas the 



J by Ftb An^llco, 






Giorgio. 




building, begun 14 

transepts, with three aisles, but wanting sTBtode, 
' '■— ■" '-iQio loft designs. The foUowtog 

Cappiaa dit(ili~Ope-a.—¥. Llppl'a Annnnclatlon 

Martyrdom of B. Lorenao, and two 
onatello, with reUefa of the Life of 
sfoursalntMnitoMO. Atlhehlgh 



lUUAtVS^ ».W.«li*fiVlBB»..*^»»**^ 



12C 



BSADSSAW'S ITALY. 



[S^tion 2. 



New SacrUtp or DeporiH Chapel, oonttrncted by 
M. Angelo, 15*25-81. It contains hit famorui M/o- 
tuet of Giuliano de' Medici, Dolce de Nemours, 
brother of Leo X., and of Lorenzo, Dae d* Urbino, 
the father of Catherine; the casts of which are in 
the medlffival court of the Crystal Palace. With 
the former arc the figures of Night and Day ; and 
with the latter those of Morning and Evening. 
Also, an unfinished Madonna, by M. Angelo, 
attended by two saints — S. Damiano (by Montc- 
lupo) and S. Cosimo (by Montorsoli). Sereral 
niches are empty. 

^Medici or Prineipi Chapel, founded by Ferdi- 
nand I., 1604, is behind the choir, and is a splendid 
octagon mausoleum corered with rich marbles, 
Jasper, agate, giallo antico, and other precious 
stones, in the Florentine style, as practised at the 
government mosaic factory ; small minute pieces 
being laid together in imitation of paintings, 
coats of arms, flowers, and other ornaments, with 
the nicest effects of shade and colour. It forms 
**the richest crust of ornament that ever was 
lavished on so large a surface." Here are G. da 
Bologna's statue of Ferdinand I., the founder, and 
P. Tacca's Cosimo II. Benvenuti's frescoes in 
the cupola are a late addition. 

The cloister of the convent leads to the 

Biblioteca Laurenziana, founded by the Medici 
family. Open daily. It was erected by M. Angelo 
and Vasari, and contains about 10,000 M8S., many 
being almost of priceless value (see p. 183). 

Facing the church of S. Lorengo is Bandinelli*s 
statue of Cosimo L*s father, Giovanni, which used 
to stand in the Palazzo Vecchio. 

16. Santa Lucia Church.— D. Ghirlandajo's Birth 
of Christ, at the high altar. 

17. Santa Lucia de'Magnoli. — ^Terra cotta, by L. 
della Robbia; Fra Filippo Lippi's Annunciation. 

18. */9. Marco Church, in the Piazza di 8. Marco, 
near the Cathedral, attached to a Dominican Con- 
vent, now untenanted, of which Savonarola, the 
reformer, and Fra Angelico and Fra Bartolommeo, 
were brothers (frari). Begun 1486-7, by Miche- 
lozzo, and the front completed by Fra Pronti, 
1777. Over it is Giotto's Crucifix, on a gold 
ground. In the choir, an illuminated missal by 
Fra Benedetto (the brother of Angelico), and a 
psalter, by Fra Enstachio (1505). In the 

Antonino Chapel, by G. di Bologna, 1588, are seven 
statues of S. Antonino, 8. Thomas, 8. Dominic, 
&c., by G. di Bologna and Francavilla; three 
Angels, by Portigiani ; pictures by Bronzino. 

Chapel of the Sacramen t, by 8ilvani (1678). Paint- 
ings by Passignano, S. di Tito, (fee. Near this, 
a Virgin and Saints, by Fra Bartolommeo. 

Cappella Ricci. — Ancient mosaic of the Madonna 
and Saints, of the eighteenth century, brought 
from old St. Peter's at Rome. There are also 
monuments of Pico della Mirandola (a sort of 
Admirable Crichton), G. Benevieui and A. Poli- 
ziano, or Polltian (1494). 

^:60 cJoJstera, c/japter-hoaae, corridors, Ac, of 
fA49 cojtreat, now MUB90 8. M9X90, contain 



freweoee by Poccetti, Ghurardlnl, Ae., but especially 
the works of Fra Giovanni da Fiesole, or Fra 
Angelico as he is called, the earliest of the 
fifteenth century artists of the Florentine schooL 
They occupied him about nine years (1436-45), 
and he always began with prayer. The subjects 
are generally illustrative of the sufferings and 
death of Christ, and the acts of 8. Dominic and 
other saints. In the small refectory is *D. Ghirlan- 
dajo's Last Supper. From this convent, Savonarola 
and two others, were taken and burnt in the 
Piazza Granduca, 23rd May, 1498. He is described 
as "Apostolicus" in the inscription in his cell 
Bishop Ricci was confined here before his recanta- 
tion. 

19. Santa Maria MaddaJena dei Pazzi, in Via 
di Phiti. Built by Brunelleschi and G. da 
Sangallo, who added the clock-tower, 1479. Over 
the front Is Poccetti's fresco of St. M. Magdalene. 
It contains S. di Tito's Christ in the Garden: Pon- 
tormo's Madonna and Saints; Cos. Uosselli Coro- 
nation of the Virgin ; and in the Chapter House, 
Perugino's ♦Devotion of the Cross, visible daily, 
12 to 4, fee 25c. 

20. Santa Maria Maggiore, built in the thir- 
teenth century, on the site of a very early church. 
It has a St. John by A. Gaddi : and is annexed to 
a convent. 

21. *Santa Maria Novella, with its Dominican 
Convent, was built in the purest Italian-Gothic 
style, 1256-1357, by certain brothers of the order; 
the front being completed in 1470. Over the great 
door is one of Giotto's Crucifixions. There is a 
tall campanile attached. The Sepdcreto adjoin- 
ing, with arched tombs, dates from 1400. 

This large and imposing church, which has lately 
been restore^!, was so much admired by M. Angelo, 
that he used to call it his Sposa, or Bride. It is an 
Italian-Gothic cross, 8*20 feet long, with three 
naves, between pointed arclies, which purposely 
diminish towards the high altar, to increase the 
perspective effect. Close to the door is Settig- 
nano's tomb of Santa Beata Villana. Its chapels 
are as follows : — 

Choir CAope/.— This is covered by D. Ghirlan- 
dajo's frescoes, finished 1490. On one wall are 
several pictures of the History of St. John the 
Baptist ; the first of which contains portraits of 
Politian, of the Tomabuoni family, and of others 
of his friends and patrons ; and in the second is a 
celebrated portrait of Ginevra de' Benci, a young 
and beautiful Florentine lady. On the opposite 
wall is the History of the Virgin, in seven pictures, 
with portraits in the first., of the painter, of his 
father and brother, of three of the Medici, and of 
another patron, Tomaquinci. Round the large 
stained window are frescoes of the History of St. 
Dominic and St Peter the Martyr; and four of 
his Evangelists are in the ceiling. 

Oondi Chapel. — ^Here is Bmnelleschi's wooden 
Crociflx, whi<di he carved to rival that at Santa 
Croce, and irMch lo astonished Donatello that he 



I 



fioute 26i] 



^LOttENCfi — C&UBCHES. 



127 



cried out '* You make Clirlsts, while I make pap- 
pets." 

Oaddi Chapel. — Two tombs by M. Angelo. Bron- 
zino's Raising of Jairus' Daughter. Bas-reliefs 
by G. deir Opera. 

Strozzi Chapel, in the transept. — Frescoes of the 
Heaven and Hell of Dante, full of figures, by 
Andrea Orcagna (assisted by his brother Bernardo), 
one of whose works, the Coronation of the Virgin, 
is in the National Gallery. His best work is here, 
Tiz., the altar-piece of Christ and the Virgin on a 
Throne, with his name on it, painted 1357. 

Sacristy. — Tliree reliquaries by Fra Angelico; 
and Masaccio's Crucifix. 

Pasquali Chapel. — Vasari's Resurrection, painted 
over a work of Masaccio's, the Italian Trinity, dis- 
covered in 1857. Near M. Lazzaro's pulpit is 
Ghiberti*s bronze monument of Fra Leonardo; 
also one of Joseph, Patriarch of Constantinople, 
who attended a Council here, 1439. 

Rueellai Chapel. — Cimabue's Madonna and Child, 
a large picture on a gold ground, said to have been 
carried in solemn procession from the painter's 
studio to the church. Monument of P. Rueellai. 

Filippo Strozzi Chapel. — B. da Majano's marble 
tomb of the founder; F. Lippi's frescoes of St. 
John restoring Drusiana ; St. Philip driving away 
the Dragon, <fec. 

Chioztro Vecchio (Old Cloister), or Chiostro Verde, 
built 1320, and so called from the prevailing shades 
of Its cameo frescoes of the Deluge, by P. Uccelll. 
Hence through corridors lined with early frescoes, 
to the old Chapter House, or 

Cappella Degli Spagnuoli, built 1350, by Fra 
Jacopo, and covered all over with frescoes, by 
Memmi and T. Gaddi, of the school of Giotto, now 
much decayed, and very ill lighted. The subjects 
are the Church Militant and Triumphant, with the 
Life of St. Thomas Aquinas, a great Dominican 
doctor. There is a profusion of figures, many of 
them portraits of eminent personages of the day, 
as Benedict XI., Clement V., Philip of France, 
Petrarch, Laura, Boccaccio, Cimabue, &c.; and 
the Domini Canes, or faithful black and white 
Dominican dogs, are seen driving away the here- 
tical wolves from the flock. Gaddi's frescoes on 
the west side include niched figures of fourteen 
Christian Virtues and Sciences, coupled with por- 
traits of eminent exemplars, in this order: — Civil 
Law and Justinian ; Church Law and Clement V.; 
Speculative Theology and Peter Lombard; Prac- 
tical Theology and S. Boethius; Faith and Diony- 
sius the Areopagite ; Hope and John of Damascus; 
Charity and St. Augustine ; Arithmetic and Pytha- 
goras; Geometry and Euclid; Astronomy and 
Ptolemy ; Music and Tubal Cain ; Dialectics, or 
Logic, and Aristotle; Rhetoiic and Cicero ; Gram- 
mar and Priscian. 

Chiostro Orande. — Under the arcades are frescoes 
of the life of S. Dominic, &e. In the refectory, 
frescoes by Bronzino. In the Spezeria, where the 
monks prepare their noted essences, liqueurs, and 
perfumes (especially the alkemies, which makes a 
pleasant drink with barley water), are S. Arotino^a 



twelve paintings. Facing the church are two 
obelisks on bronze tortoises, by G.da Bologna. The 
open loggia of Brunelleschi, opposite, was re- 
stored in 1789. The piazza presents a gay scene 
on a church festa, when the people come out with 
their dresses and banners. 

22. Santa Maria Nuova, near the Piazza di 
Duomo, built 1418, as the church to an excellent 
hospital and medical school, founded 1287, by 
Folco Portinari, the father of Dante's Beatrice. 
In the loggia are wall paintings, by L. di Bicci. 
Within are Allori's Madonna on a Throne, Cas- 
tagno's Magdalene, D. Veneziano's Flight into 
Egypt, A. Verrocchio's (terra cotta) Madonna, and 
Van der Goes's altar-piece. Remains of Fra 
Bartolommeo's Last Judgment, in the Cemetery. 

23. St. Martino, an oratory of the Buonuomini, 
founded 1441, and adorned with twelve pictures 
of works of charity. 

21. *0r S. Michele, or S. Michele in Orzo (« e., 
among the barley), in the Via Calzaiolo, near 
Piazza Granduca, was first built for a granary on 
arcades, and converted into a church in 1337, 
completed 1412. Arnolfo's old Gothic church, 
which it replaces, is now called S. Carlo. The 
upper storey, since 1359, is used for the archives, 
while the lower or church part rests on the ancient 
market pillars. We here have examples of two 
arches divided by columns included within a 
larger arch, as in some Norman churches. It has 
some old frescoes (Gaddi's Jesus in the Temple), 
good stained windows, and a beautiful marble 
*Tabernacle, by Orcagna, 1359, most richly carved 
with reliefs from the History of the Virgin, and 
standing behind an elegant screen which matches 
it. It contains a miracle-working image of the 
Virgin. There are also a marble group, by F. da 
Sangallo and Mino da Ficsole. 

Around the church is a series of niched statues, 
erected by theold trading guilds of Florence, whose 
arms are placed over each. Among them are 
Donatello's St. Mark, St. George, and St. Peter; 
G. da Bologna's St Luke; Ghilberti's St. John the 
Baptist, St. Matthew (bronze), and St. Stephen; 
N. di Banco's St. James and St. Eloy (or St. Eligius), 
and four saints in a group; besides A. del Ver- 
rocchio's St. Thomas, and B. da Moutelupo's St. 
John the Evangelist. 

25. S. Miniate. (See page 135.) 

26. S. Niccolb, across the Amo, near Porta S. 
Miniato, built by Vasari. It suffered from the 
inundations of the river, in 1557, and has a cam- 
panile in which M. Angelo hid away from the 
Imperialists. A. Allori's Sacrifice of Abraham and 
St. Catherine; D. Ghirlandajo's Madonna and St. 
Thomas, in the Sacristy. 

27. Ognissanti, or All Saints, annexed to a Fran- 
ciscan House, and restored in 1627. It has L. della 
Robbia's reliefs on the door-way ; D. (>hirlandajo.'s 
St. Jerome; Botticelli's St. Augustine, <fcc. 

28. S. Onofrio, in the Refectory are a Cenacolo of 
the school of Perugino and several other Last 
Suppers by yarioua ma&Ux^. kSas&aa^ss^oa. \a »k> 



S9. & Remi^iOj nojt 
t chapel foDDded by Di 
»lLon by Ormgnni ian 



delLa Robbla, ar 
aj. B.SpiriU. 



ud a cupola. The choir an 
nve'p. di Cosimo-ii 



' SBADSBAW' 

ilyi aDAnnoDcl- 
TA AabbUco. and 









-- - -- -- Auumption; M. lilKlQ'a 

e Fiet^t and near It, A. SanaDvino'B BI. 
HICbolsB. 

Iferli C^Hf.— nilppino Llppi's Uadonna, St. 
Hartln, Ac. 

CorUf»nlCAaf«>'-StinsoTlno'BCBrTlnce. Neai 
tblB, H, OhlrUndajo's Christ od Ills CroBJ. 

Htllore CAopft.— Qlotlo'a Madonna. 

BiUelti CAqpsJ.— BotUcdli's Madonna. 

/WKotnlil Cftopsf. — PainpalonrB tomb of ■ 
ooonteasof IhsfBtally. BottccBlli'sAnnimclotloD. 

The octagonal Smriilt 1> a Gne and ijraceCal 



i centnrieB, by A. E 



tiBlao 



: Ohivul. near tbe high alto 
completed 1846. the h( 



ilnliSl. Coilme 
am IMO-U) till h 



tSecUoQ 3. 

:h wu adopted at tl^ 



Id Brid(t«. 

id, by M. Anxelo. when b« 



full or D. 
Sl"'"tfl"'"tl"'' 



TheEngiiabCllIlTChliinVialaUaniiora. In 
Via ToTrmbuonl li the Llbrerla ETangellca, irh«re 
the evangelical prDpagoDdaiaearriedon,!^ mean* 
ot IractB. Ac., and colportage. The Can SaMaai, 
In Via Chlara. is the colli^ For tlie theological itn- 
denls of the Valdai or Vaadole Chorcb, BtUbUahtd 

'rom ToTTB, where 



PlJa.(Mi.—'Paiai!a Verriia. In ihe Plaiia Gi 
dnca, ot Stenorla, the old seat ot the Republl 
and Ducal Goyeniinont. and lately of tbeChani 



bronzeCnpId, byA 



e Italian Porlia- 



! Victory and a Pt 
^orlcol fl^DTea by V 



, hy C, da Clfioll, I. tho 



aJterwards enlarged and comnlaled by T. Qaildl, 



chapd. pointed by B. Qhlrlondajo. 

■Oallery of Florenoa. Vnta de Itiiki, ^c. 
Thla magnmcaut oollesUon la open dally, fnn 
10MB.t(ilf.i)^ilUn; tad la wntolaad m tbe 



lioute 26.] 



f'LO&BNClfi — PALAOBB, UFITIZI GALLERY. 



129 



Uffisli or Offices, t^ range of buildings forming 
three sides of an oblong court, between the Pal- 
azzo Vecchio and the Amo, about 500 feet long, 
and 125 broad-, originally serving as part of the 
corridor — 260 or 260 fathoms long, to the Pitti 
Palace. It was constructed by Vasari, 1660-74, 
as an open loggia or roofed terrace, but after- 
wards filled in with windows and enclosed. To 
this, other rooms, as the Tribune, Miobe Room, &c., 
were added by Buontalenti, and later architects. 
Part of the east wing, near the Archives, is occu- 
pied by the Italian Senate. The Etruscan Gallery 
dates from 1853. The collection was founded by 
Cosimo I., and succeeding Princes of the Medici 
family. 

It comprises paintings of all the Italian and 
Foreign schools, ancient and modem sculpture, 
designs and engravings, bronzes, gems, pottery, 
dec., the archives, and the Magliabecchi Library ; 
most of which are on the first floor. Shops fill up 
the Doric colonnades below. The entrance is near 
the Piazza Signoria. Around the court is an 
interesting series of niched marble statues of 
eminent Florentines, of modem date; as the 
founder, Cosimo I. (by G. da Bologna); Lorenzo 
the Magnificent; Orcagna (by Dupr^) ; Kiccolb da 
Pisa (by Fedi, one of the best) ; Giotto (by Duprb, 
the sculptor of the Dead Abel); Donatello (by 
Torrini); Alberti, da Vinci, M. Angelo, Dante, 
Petrarch, Boccaccio, Macliiavelli, Gaicciardini, 
Amerigo Vespucci, Galileo, P. Micheli, Mascagni, 
Gesalpino, S. Antonino, Accorsi, Guido, B. Cellini, 
F. degr Uberti, P. Capponi, G. de' Medici (or delle 
Bande Nere), and Ferucci. 

First Vestibule from the stairs. — Bronzes of 
Silenus and Bacchus, and of Mars; busts of the 
Medici, including Cosimo (pater patriae^ as he is 
called), the founder of the family; which derives its 
name from MedicuSy and whose arms are the tlirce 
pills or balls now adopted by pawnbrokers. He 
died 1464. Also Lorenzo the Magnificent, whose 
life with that of his son, Giovanni (Leo X.), was 
written by Roscoe; Giuliano, or Clement VII.; 
and Cosimo I., the first Grand Duke. Catherine 
de* Medici (or Medicis, as the French spell it), 
grandniece of Clement VII., was the mother of 
Francis II., and two other Kings of France, and 
mother-in-law to Mary Stuart. 

Second Vestibule. — Mastiff dogs ; statues of 
Apollo, and of Augustus, Adrian, and Trajan. 
This leads into the three 

Corridors, surrounded by painthigs of the old 
masters (thirteenth to sixteenth century) ; among 
which are Giottino's Entombment ; Fra Angelico's 
AJtar-piece; Giotto's Christ in the Garden; and 
a fine St. Cecilia. Here arc over 500 portraits of 
eminent Florentines; busts of the Roman Emperors, 
and fourteen sarcophagi. Among the busts, the 
most striking are Nero, Otho, Titus, Antoninus 
Pius, M. Aurclius, Caracalla, and Commodus. 
About three palts up the first long (or east) 
corridor, taming to the left, is the 

jfH&tMA— A imall dose octagon room, about 24 
feet diamtter, cotttttning a "world ot art/' the 



gems of sculpture and painting of the whole col- 
lection. It was constructed by Buontalenti, and 
has a marble floor and a mother-of-pearl dome. 
Here stand five master-pieces of statuary; and, 
first, the "statue that enchants the world," the 

1. *VexiU8 de' ttedici, an undrapcd figure, so 
called because placed here by Cosimo 111. of the 
Medici family, and which is so well known by the 
innumerable copies of it. It was found at Villa 
Adriana, broken in three pieces, and wanting the 
right arm and half of the left, which were restored 
by Bernini. It is 4 feet 11 § inches high, of pentelic 
(or Athenian) marble, and is said to be the work of 
Cleomenes, the son of Apollodorus. 2. L' Apoflino, 
or Littfe Apbllo, 4 feet 6 inches high, and attributed 
to Praxiteles. 3. V Arrotino, a figure whetting 
his knife, found at Rome, in the sixteenth century, 
and supposed to be a Scythian preparing to flay 
Marsyas. 4. / Lottatori, or The Wrestlers, — one 
head of which is supposed to have been restored. 
5. Dancing Faun. Head and arms restored by M. 
Angelo. 

The Paintings in this room are-L. Carracci's 
Eliezer and Rebecca ; L. Cranach's Adam and Eve; 
A. Diirer's Adoration of the Magi; Domenichino's 
Portrait of Cardinal Aguccia; Titian's Venus and 
Cupid with Flowers ; M. Angelo's *Holy Family, 
in a Circle— painted for A. Doni ; Lanfranchi's St. 
Peter near the Cross ; A. Mantegna's Circumcision, 
Adoration of the Magi, and Resurrection ; A. del 
Sarto's *Madonna, St. John the Evangelist, and 
St. Francis; Correggio's Head of St. John the 
Baptist; B. Luini's Herodias and the Baptist's 
Head ; Titian's Portrait of Cardinal Beccadelli ; 
Correggio's Holy Family in Egypt; Titian's 
♦Venus, with the Dog (this is "Titian's Venus," 
supposed to be the iK)rtrait of the mistress 
of the Duke d'Urbino) ; Guercino's Samian Sibyl x 
Raphael's Portrait of Maddalena Doni (or one of 
the Doni family?), painted 1606; P. Veronese's 
Madonna and Child. St. John, St. Catherine, &c.; 
A. Carracci's Bacchante; Raphael's *Portrait of 
Pope Jufius II. (a copy is in our National Gallery) ; 
♦Madonna del Cardellino (so called from the gold- 
finch in the Infant Saviour's hands — painted as a 
wedding gift to surprise a friend) ; Vandyke's- 
Portrait of J. de Montfort; Perugino's ♦Holy 
Family and St. Sebastian; Raphael's St. John the 
Baptist, Madonna del Pozzo; Spagnoletto's St. 
Jerome; G. Romano's Virgin and Child; O, 
Alfani's Holy Family. Raphael's *Fornarina, ea 
called; his mistress, the little baker's daughter, 
but differing from the Barbcrini and other Fornn- 
rinas ; some say it is Vittoria Colonna, or Beatrice 
de Ferrara; others attribute the painting to (3ior- 
gione. Rubens' Hercules, between Venus and 
Minerva; Schidone's Holy Family ; Guido's Ma^ 
donna; Correggio's Virgin and 'Child; F. Bar- 
rocci's Portrait of Duke d'Urbino; Fra Barto- 
lommeo's *Job, and Isaiah; Vandyke's Portrait of 
*Charlcs V. on Horseback, by the Sea Shore ; D» 
da Volterra's Massacre of the Innocents; L. de 
Leyden's (or D'Olonda'al G\!*\s*. ^^.•C5is*^*^^5ss$sss.'v 



ISO SSAbBHiw'B rrAuY. {Section 3. 

Bnula Teifimoar Tattaaac^Kl. In tiro roams,— Unnnea lud ta tbocurrldur whlcli Eoniiecti the 



VIncI— Rponrilt 
orEin|»U— St. Itci ind ma Wldo 
Fra Angelloo— (OUT pictnra of 1 
Vlnrd— Adoration ot the UaKl. I 
8. SuioUdmiplctiiret}. F. Ban 
FamllT. hli UtI work. Arteinlil 
with nalafema' Head, by a femal 
Bronilno — Cbtlw In Umhi), with 



JItiUaa AcAtwr.— Gul. 



na'iVlrvIn and Child. 



• Head. J.Ctilnieni 



■I Iha HcdicI family. 

•PorlraiU el 
Jardfnnl K do' Medici." The McdlcfVBM 



Zurrhcrl, L, Ulordai 
iinpno, Itaphael (anil 



Allurl. Cliroll. L. Upiri, 

0, Enipall. Swlomo, A. d«t 
(miwculttr and niejed), 

iMlo,8. no.B, t-daVlnd, 

1, like H lion" nVoof^HsAiO, 
irroccl, aiorelone, Porde- 
Bcl, CaraTarelo, Titian, 



: H<ribeln-( Portri 



Ik" L C "" h^ L It^ Sn/i»«ti//ri»T[p(fci)H.Fida™'piiirs,— Gmk 

Id tho Elector. John and ph\lX^t!er^"°."^ ' " " ^ """ "" ^ 
Jaram Ao. taWarf ^ (A* ffrmiaplirodll/.—So callcil (ro 



Comtolei TrlaDipIi of Coilmo I., by U. Kunioimi 

Bat-rallcri In gold and nwtalc by n. da Uulogna; 

Clemenl VlLa cryatal catkcL by V. Vleeiilino, (n- 

Hnded aa a weddhr Vl't (or Catherine do' Hedlcl; 

bpU laiull eip. by B. Colllnl; and a iilntc In »"<■ nilpnos. Notice 

eiyitat and itold, by Iho wme; Vcnunand Cupid, foflc, liilaiil wllh floi 

IB porphyry. 1iy Feocia. niarbloi one o[ which,! 

room with Dns behind IC l> glrou lo plctum oT (lie 
rnu(riiii»AoaI.— Hnnyortheniportrallii. Glor- 

tlone'a Judgment of Bulomini: Titian's Saiiwtliio, 
luchc-i of Urb'na. ind Duka ot Kavero. Ac. ; 
Ertralli>,&c..by Bordone, Tintoretto, P. VcimicH. 



la. and Adoralloii ol 
piiUiiTiV.i ItabRui- DsccKnal 



Mlolie and her Children Pniaued by A|hiIIo nnd 
Ulnnai fonnd at Porta S. Paulo, Bonie. In IWt. 
PalntbiK»-by Vandyke: the Mother o( RnbrnapX 
IIonlhor>l:ASai>pera«!ne.andaGlpiy, RnboiHi 



aa'aULm 


ro Jfc«-Ko. « called lr< 


Vlnia, atid 




JLdonia Ko 


(1 .ouie other flno pld 



and I I^ly! 



'Portraltg on'rlncc Kuperl an 



"*™Bi«-/ra//F-, jDrf espeeltUf rieh In lialisn (ooadatPoMr 
'/■scimeai, Tienajj-f/icillo the Salt tULoieaxo i imoiiitloiwi ■ 



sUluo, enllcd lldMim. al fln| 
1330; EtmacanstatDcttci'.uteDilii^ 



Route 26.] 

At the end of the long west corridor is the 
Catleria Feroniy containing the collection be- 
^neathed by the Marchcsc Leopoldo Feronl in 
\%h\ placed here In 1866. There are a good 
Teniers, three Carlo Dolci's, a Nicolas Poussiu, 
Ac. 
The rooms at the comer are devoted to 
Designs and Engravings.— About 20,000 designs, 
from Giottino to the sixteenth century ; and up- 
wards of 8i»,000 engravings, many of which have 
been photographed. This is one of the finest col- 
lections <*f drawings of the ancient masters in 
exist^ice. It was commenced by Cardinal Leo- 
pold de' Medici» and added to by pnrcliase and 
bequest. It is intended to arrange the whole 
chronologically and according to schools. Cata- 
logue, li fr. 

Biblloteca Nasionale, on the first floor of 

the Uffizi. Open 9 a.m. to 3 p-m. This consists 
^ the library formed by A. Magllabccchi, a 
voracious reader and book collector, with a 
wonderful memory, and tlio BiblioUca Palatina. 
It nun^)er8 800,000 volumes and 8,000 manu- 
scripts. Among the literary curiosities are two 
Maycnce Bibles, 1462. The first book, Cicero 
ad Familiares, printed at Venice, 1469. The 
Landini Dante, Florence, 1481. The first Homer 
printed at Florence^ 1488. The Central Archives 
of Tuscany are also here. 

Pigafetta, the historian (as quoted by Mr. T 
A. Trollope, in his "Impressions of a Wanderer") 
speaks of a "distillery" in tlie Uflizi, where the 
most skilled masters of the art were continually 
employed in distilling waters of virtue, extracting 
oils, and composing unguents, confections, liqueurs, 
medicaments, and powders, for the Grand Duke ; 
who gave them to prelates, ambassadors, and 
nobles ; and most charitably to all when prompt 
remedies were required ; thus showing himself in 
truth, as well as in name, a real Medico, generous 
and kind to those in need. The Medici spent 
large sums in these secret compounds, some of 
which very much resembled quack medicines. 

♦Plttl Gallery.— The next in importance to 
the Uflizi is at the Palazzo Pitti, once the seat of 
the Grand Ducal Court, in Oltr' Anio; begun 
1440, from the designs of Brunelleschi, for Luca 
Pitti, a rich merchant, who wished to rival the 
Palazzo Vecchio, and sold in 1649 to the Medici, 
who thenceforth made it their residence. Inclu- 
ding the wings, which were added by Parigi, in 
the seventeenth century, the fa9ade is 480 feet 
long, three storeys high in the middle, each storey 
40 feet higl^ with large windows 24 feet apart. 
Themassivefrontisconstructed of brown rusticated 
stone blocks; but, unfortunately, it wants a 
cornice at the top. The court behind, leading out 
to the Boboli Gardens, consists of three orders, one 
above another, and also rusticated. It contains a 
grotto faced by a Doric colonnade, with some 
stotacs; one of which is a Moses produced ont of 
Rn uitique torso. 



FLOBBNCE — UVFIZI AND PITTI GALLERIES. 



131 



On the first floor of the Palace is the GaUery of 
about five hundred paintings, the rooms being 
named after the Roman Deities, Ac, and the 
ceilings are decorated by P. de Cortona. They arc 
approached by a Sala delle Nicchie, containing six 
niched statues. Gallery open 10 to 4. Fee, 1 lira ; 
lift, 1 lira extra. Some beautiful Florentine 
mosaics should be noticed. 

Venus Room (Sala dl Venere). — Tintoretto : 
Cupid, Mars, and Venus. Garofolo: St. James. 
Rubens: Market, and View in Spring. Titian: 
Betrothal of St. Catherine; " La Bella di Tiziano.'* 
A. Diirer: Adam and Eve. Rembrandt: OIUMau. 

Apollo Room. — P. Veronese : Portrait of his Wife, 
A. del Sarto : Holy Family. MuriUo : Virghi. Ra- 
phael: *Portraits of Angiolo and Maddalona 
Doni, 1607, and of Leo X., Cardinal de* Medici, 
and C!ardinal Rossi. Fra Bartolommeo : a Pietk. 
Titan: Pietro Aretino. Rembrandt: Portrait of 
himself. 

Mars Room. — Guido: Magdalene. Raphael: Pope 
Julius II. Rubens: Portraits of himself, his brother, 
Lipsius, and Grotius. Raphael: Holy Family, 
called Madonna dell* Impannata, because of the 
papered sash window. C. Allori : Judith (portrait 
of his mistress, Mazzafirra), with the head of 
Holofemes (his own portrait). A. del Sarto: 
Holy Family. Titian: Portrait. 

Jupiter Room. — M. Angelo (?): *Three Parcae, or 
Fates. Garofalo: Augustus and the Sibyl. Fra 
Bartolommeo : St. Mark. L. da Vinci : Portrait of a 
Woman. Salvator Rosa : Battle-pieces. 

Saturn Room. — Porphyry tables and busts; 
Paintings— by A. del Sarto: La Disputa.. Van- 
dyke: Charles I. and Henrietta Maria. Rapliaels 
^Madonna delta Sedia^ and *Mad. del Granduca. 
Perogino: Descent from the Cross. Raphael: 
*Madonna del Baldacchino (of the Canopy). 
G. Romano: Muses and Apollo. Raphael: Portrait 
of T. F. Inghirami, and his «Vision of Ezekiel (a 
fine picture). 

Itiad Room. — Frescoes by L. Sabatclli; A. del 
Sarto: *Two Assumptions. Titian: Philip II. and 
Cardinal Ippolito de* Medici. Fra Bartolommeo i 
*Madonna on a Throne. Giorg^ione: The Concert; 
Guercino : Susannah and the Elders. 

Room, called the Education cf Jupiter. —Here it 
a work by Raphael, called "La Donna Veleta." 
Fra Bartolommeo: Holy Family. A. del Sarto: 
John the Baptist. Velazquez: Philip IV. Tin- 
toretto: Descent from the Cross. 

ScUa della fi/tt/a.— Frescoes by Cortona. Statues. 

Ulysses Room. — Painting on ceiling by Martel- 
lini; Return of Ulysses. A. del Sarto: Madonna. 

PromeOieus Room. — A table of Florence Mosaic- 
Paintings— by Fra Lippi: Madonna and Child. 
Fra Bartolommeo: Ecce Homo. , 

Hall of Justici.—hely'* Cromwell (sent by the 
Protector to the Grand Doke), Sft^. ^vi. ^Nssofis*^-, 
Man untauorvra. 



132 



BBADSHAW 8 ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



Flora Room. — Canora's *Vennt Italica, which 
replaced the Venus de* Medici while Ihut statue 
was at Paris, and is almost as good. 

8aia dei Fanciuili (Children).^S. Rosa's Forest 
lijuidscape, with Diogenes Tlu'O wing his Cup Away. 

Poceetti Room.— Canova's bust of Napoleon; 
Titian's Portrait of T. MostL 

Oabineffo degH Argenti (fee i lira).- Goldsmiths' 
work (Benvenuto Cellini, Ac.) and the royal plate. 
■The corridor between the Pitti and the Uffizi 
is lined with nrazzi or tapestriis. 

Close by is the Museo di Fisica e Ston'a Naturals, 
founded by Leoiwld I., including collections of 
mineralogy, fossils, anatomical preparations and 
a tine set of wax inoflels, with a botanical garden, 
library, and herbarium. The 7Wfru»« of Qalileo, 
here located in 1840, contains his statue by Costoli, 
some of his philosophical Instruments, with busts 
of his pupil, Torricelli, «fcc.; and its walls are 
lined with frescoes, marble nnd jasper arabesques. 
Galileo's house is near Porta S. Giorgio. 

The MSS. of his observations on Jupiter's satel- 
lites were discovered in the Pitti Palace, and 
published with many of liis letters, by Aliber. 

Mtueo ArchsBologico, in Pal. della Crocetta, Via 
della Colonua, open daily, 10 to 4, entrance 1 lira. 
Labels are attached to all the objects shown. 
These consist of ai.cient sculptures, coins, and 
gems on the ground floor, and, on the first floor, 
coUections of Egyptian and Etruscan antiquities, 
the latter being especially worth inspection, com- 
prising bronies, pottery, armour, and curious 
cinerary urns. On the second floor is the Galleria 
degli Arazzi (of Ta))estrie8), open daily, 10 to 4; 
admission 1 lira, catalogue 1 lira. In addition to 
Florentine Arazzi (from Arras), there are ancient 
stuffs and damasks and German, Flemish, and 
French tapestries of the fifteenth and sixteenth 
centuries. 

The Boboli Gardens^ behind the palace, on the 
slope and crest of the hill, are laid out in the 
Italian style, with fountains, terraces, and statuary, 
by M. Angelo (the Four Prisoners) ; G. da Bologna 
(a fountain); Bandinelli, Rossi, dec; and command 
a tine prospect of the city and valley of the Amo. 
Its gillyflowers are celebrated. Open free on 
Sundays and Thursdays at noon; for other days 
tickets must be obtained at the office. Botanic 
Garden attached, admittance by fee on Sundays 
and Thursdays; other days apply at the Museo di 
Storia Naturale. 

The Royal Meuis contain ancient state carriages; 
apply at the Pitti Palace oflice. 

Belvedere fortress, otherwise Fortezza di 8. 

Giorgio, on the summit of the hill, to which the 

Grand Duke Leopold II. retired from the Pitti 

Palace, previous to the revolution of 27th April, 

1859, which expelled his dynasty from Tuscany. 

_, ^deeademlA dalle Belle Art! (Academy of 

/?'**j^^^fJa tbo Via JUcaaolU near St. Mark's. 

-^ouaatfd bjr a society of artJsta ia 1860, and 



restored in 1784 by the Grand Duke Leopold; com* 
prising schools of design, painting, architecturei, 
music, declamation, &c. In the corridor and court 
are bas-reliefs by L. della Robbia ; with the ori- 
ginal models of G. da Bologna's Rape of the 
Sabines and M. Angelo's St. Matthew. M. 
Angelo's David was brought here, 187 J, from its 
open-air site at the Palazzo Vecchlo. There are 
cases of it in the new Piazza M. Angelo, and at 
the South Kensington Museum. 

In the Picture Oallerp, open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., are 
specimens of the older masters, many of them 
brought from the suppressed churches and con- 
vents, and arranged for the most part clironolo~ 
gically. Some of them are as follows : — Cimabue: 
Holy Family, Angels and Prophets. Giotto : ten 
subjeciR in the Life of St. Francis. B. Angelico: 
Descent from the Cross. Vcrrocchio: Baptism of 
Christ — with an angel, bv L. da Vinci, his pupil. 
Perugino : Christ in the Garden, and an Assump- 
tion, from Vallombrosa (1.500). F. Lippi and 
Perugino: Descent from the Cross. A. del Sarto : 
FOurSaints. Fra Bartolonimeo: St. Vincent. Plau- 
tilla Nelli (an Observantinc Nun) : Three Marys 
and Saints — the saints having a feminine appear- 
ance, as Sister Plautilla was not allow^ to 
take men for her models. A. Bronzino: Cosimo 
de' Medici. Cigoli: St. Francis Receiving the 
Stigmata. B. Angelico: eight pictures, in thirty- 
flve compartments, of the Life of Christ. Fra 
Bartolommeo: Portrait of Savonarola. N. di 
Bicci: Last Judgment. C. Dolci: Portrait of Fra 
Angelico. There are also Galleries of drawings 
and casts; a Library of 9,000 volumes; and the 
government factory for Florentine mosaics. (See 
the Medici Chapel {it 8. Lorenzo"*, above mentioned). 
Admission, 60 cents. Entrance in Via Alfani. 

Chiostro della Scalzo, Via Cavour 69, are some 
fine frescoes by A. del Sarto and Franciabigio. 
The key is at Mtueo 8. Marco. 

Accademia Della Crusca, whose seat is at the 
Riccardi Palace, was established in the reign of 
Cosimo I., to settle the purity of the Italian lan- 
guage. In 1612 the first Vocabolario or dictionary 
was published, to which many additions have 
been made; which has resulted in fixing the. 
supremacy of the Tuscan dialect, as based upon 
its great writers. The Academy was revived by 
Napoleon in 1811, and is engaged on a new dic- 
tionary. "Crusca" means "bran," and their 
crest is a frullone or sifter, with tiie motto, "U 
plh bel fior ne coglie " — It gathers the finest flour. 

Prlyate Palaces. — Some of the most remark- 
able private palaces are as follow: — The older 
palaces are of a massive character, and usually 
have iron rings on the front, by way of distinction. 
The modem ones are generally faced with stucco. 
The lower rooms are vaulted, and the upper hnug 
with silk, never papered. 

Palazzo AlberH^ near Fonte alle Grazie, buUi: 
UOO, aad t«aU>i«& in 1850. 



Bonte ES.] fi.obrhc 

Palam AHarlU, In Borgo (1*8:11 A 
thi Vlucct, truni rh> marble bnsiii 

FalaitB Mr A*UUa, Pliiis a. Ci 
f«fiid« li>vin(rRKix8«ieciittd i» ai 



lUW. Impaling anil rorticii-llks. 
Palaia Gmdt. In Plaiin 3. Fin 
W, by Q. dl BaiigaLlu nvim 



; Ih( 



VUMlta, OLD BOCHBB. 183 

[□ 1783, upon the injiiinHhw of lh> InoBllltioii, 
:he tniLrumontii ol turture were here burnt In 

ilorl. Pleizi B. Crnce, an elegant 



•palaa 



18 feel 



Bplrlto. Anelegn 
TO ftct HIDalll, hi 
the mrnlcB, and d. 

pluter. and then 

capeeotS, Boia'ni 
ralaoBllarlrlH, 
PaUuio Uazzi. Iii 

Bllearazlo. QaUc 
Pabtzio PandO'fi 

Begun IKO. Imta 



tr-BerU. Ftaiia fi 
inilloni In Ihe Sun/inn ntyle 



•Palf ta Rkranli. fonnerir Medici, Via Ciranr ; 
biOlt In a imlld ruHlcmeil bI; la. [or Coilma de' 
Medici. bfHlcba1uiil.Hnden!argedbrtheRiccardl 
lunl^, when If eami Into Ihelr pauCBalon. The 
fafuf^ MKI ft« hniR and BQhigb, li In Iwo ttorcya. 



•FodMta Palaca, or Bu^eUo, In VIn Fn- 

■Tim-loelilug olil nlle. rcjtured iii s ITaUonol 
KluraiQ or H«llKvnl Art and nnllqnlllea. 
HbIII llM, by Arnoiru dl Lai-o, and ss tlw iciit or 
the PodttUk. or Chlcr MaKl'traU oT the old Be- 
DBbllc. It wai •il.micJ wllh ftwcoei bj Glotlo. 
Qhlrlandaio, Ac, whlfhhadEonntDdecsy; oneof 
them VBibroDglitta ll|.-hl In IS40. with a portrait 
nf Dante. Th<collecll<in(cntalognelllre)coniai(i 
of bai-relleTi, Kulnture, caita, porreialn buats 
bronica, carvlngL tonilture. leirelltry. tip«Kry, 
■ulna, and marblo, wllh ohi armonr and trmt. 
Mid llw Htethtti. AtladMi VKWry, of M. Anialo. 



^''s^flnf-hed'JlhJuJ 



iondayfl and ThuredAyp, 



Miijaiio. rur Fllippo Stroi 



rellefa (Cent4ur> and Lapllhs, and a UadoDna); 
alio, hli dlnlng-Toem. painted with groupi of thft 
nioi of hit day ; hie US^. lette^^ tall waMnB->Uck, 
.llpprre. crnclfli. oil Onika. and arllcica ef rnml- 



oppoilte. Ii the Hnm of Quiaiiatdini, the hlatorlan 
olilorence. 

B. CMi«{, Ifouit. VM drtia Pergola. He wai 
bom In VU B. Chlara. O. da Bdogna'i Hobmc, or 
Caia Quaraleel, ha. a box of Francli I., tbedunor, 
over tbe doM. At the eonier o( Plana dell& 
Indeptndenis Is the house In which died, 1S«I1, 
tbe wUe oC Mr. T. A. TrallDpe. author or bislorieal 
work, on Italy. Mn Hrowiilnir, m. poettsi, waa 

or Florence Nlghtbigalo. 
UbrarteB.~The chlct public library ll the 



134 



BRADSHAW*8 ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



CIem«nt VII. and Cosimo I. Vestibule by M. 
Angelo; the rest by Vasari. The vestibule, though 
only 22 feet square, is so skilfully contrived that il 
gives one ^'an idea of size and even magnificence 
on entering it."— ("Afiss Berry). The rotunda was 
added 1841. It includes Alficri's books, presented 
by his executor, Fabrd, the painter. Among the 
rare books are early printed Bibles, and a Lucian, 
with miniatures of Lorenzo dc' Medici. The 10,00 ) 
manuscripts include— a Virgil of the fourth or 
fifth century, the earliest manuscript known. 
Pandects, sixth or seventh century, brought from 
Amalfi, by the Pisans. Two manuscripts of Taci- 
tus, between seventh and tenth centuries; the 
older is the only one containing the first five books 
of the Annals. Boccaccio's Decameron. 1381. The 
Valdarfer edition of Boccaccio was printed here, 
1471; the sale of which in England, in 1812, led 
to the formation of the Roxbnrghe Club. Cicero's 
Letters ad Famitiares, copied by Petrarch. Horace, 
twelfth century. Letter of Dante, declining to 
return to Florence, on condition of asking pardon 
of the party in favour. Catalogues of the MSS. 
have been published. 

Biblioteca MaruceHiana^ in Via Cavour, founded 
by Abbate Mariicelli, 1702, and containing 120.000 
volumes. Open daily 9 to 4. The Mare Magnum, 
or General Index, in U'i volumes, is a lift of all 
the books read by the founder, almost rivalling in 
number those devoured by Magliabecchi. 

Biblioteca Nazionale^ at the UlHzi, which see. 
Biblioteca Riecardana, at Palazzo Riccardi with 
28,000 volumes and 4,000 MSS , open daily, 9 to 2. 

Theatres.— T'ea^ro della Pergola, in Via della 
Pergola, for operas. Built 1 638, by P. Tacca, with 
five rows of boxes, and will hold 2,600 persons. 
Poffliano, Via Ghibellina. Interesting fresco inside 
the entrance. NiccoHhi, Via Ricasoli Saloini, 
Via dei Neri. Nazionale, Via Nazionale. AljUeri, 
Via Giardino. Rossini, Via Borgo Ognlssanti. 
Ooldoni, in Oltr' Amo. Vuovo, Via Bufalini, 87. 
'1 he performances commence generally about half- 
past eisht and continue till midnight. The price 
at the Pergola is 8 lire, at most of the others only 
1 lira. P.iliteama, Corso Vittorio Emanuele. 

Some performances are devoted to the Florence 
Punch. 

One of the chief places of resort is the 

Casdne Promenade, on the west ; a fine green 
spot outside Porta al Prata, near the Leopoldo rail- 
way terminus, at the end of Lung' Amo: It takes 
name from a dairy farm which belonged to the 
Grand Duke, whose butter was stamped with the 
three Medici palle, or balls. It is a gay resort on 
festas, especially the assumption and the Ist Sun- 
day in June, the Festa dello Statuto, and has a 
view of the environs and the distant mountains. 
Here is a Monument to an Indian Prince, the last 
Maharajah of Kolapore, who died here In 1870, and 
whose Dody was burnt with due Hindoo rites on 
IbJs spot. 

^■^i^hf^^f^i^ ^''^*^' «'» near th« English 
^n aad tbe Capponi Gardens. 



HOBpltale (Ospedale or Spedale).— <Srpee2a7« di 
Santa Maria Nuova, close to the church of the 
same name, founded 1287, by Folco Portlnari; is 
the largest In the city, with room for about 1,000 
patients. 

Spedale di Bonifacio, or Lunatic Asylum, near 
Porta S. Gallo, with a church, in which is Fra 
Bartolommeo's Santa Brigitte, or Bridget. The 
Spedale di Lucia faces it. 

Spedale di S. Giovanni di Dio, an institution of 
the Beni Fratclli brethren, on the site of Amerigo 
Vespucci's house. 

Spedale degV Inrtocenti, in Piazza dell' Annun- 
ziata, is the Foundling Hospital of Florence. It 
was designed by Brunelleschi, and has frescoes 
by L. and A. Delia Robbia, and an altar-piece 
by Ghirlandajo. 

Pia Lasa di Lawro, or Mendicity Institution, 
founded by the French, near Santa Croce. 

The Confraternita della Misericordia Is a 
voluntary mstitution, founded in the thirteenth 
century for rendering' good offices to the dying 
and dead. They meet in the Piazza del Duomo, 
close to the cathedral, at the sound of the bell, 
dressed in a black hood, with holes for the mouth 
and eyes. 

Mendicancy is forbidden in Florence, the only 
exception being made in favour of the blind. 

Manufactures carried on at Florence- Linen, 
silk, satin. Porcelain at La Doccia, founded 1740, 
by Ginori. Specimens of this were shown In tho 
Italian Court of the Exhibition of 18H2. Mosaic, 
or pietra dura. licautlful specimens of this inlaid 
work, as fiowers, birds, Ac, are sold at the mosaic 
shops. The smallest particle of stone is turned to 
account. Tuscan, or Leghorn, straw hats. 

Copies of the best ''Italian masters" may be 
bought for £5 to £50, according to merit; the 
frame being generally the best part of the work. 

Climate. — Dr. Lee says, "From the end of 
November till April, Florence is less adapted than 
any other place of resort in Italy, to persona 
labouring under pulmonary, bronchial, or rheu- 
matic complaints. It generally agrees well with 
dyspeptic and nervous patients, who lack mental 
recreation; and I have known it suit several 
asthmatic cases better than any other Continental 
town. Those of a strumous. Inert, and lymphatic 
temperament likewise generally find the climate 
suited to them." 

October and November are usually fine and 
warm. The winter is cold. About April the 
weather is charming, and the Vale of Amo appears 
in all its beauty. 

ViUaS, Walks, EzcvrBions.— l . On the Flcaole 

Road, out of the Porta S. Gallo, or Porta Pintl, on 
the north-east, towards the Apennines. On or 
near these roads, after crossing the Magnonc. Is 
Villa Careggi, a favourite seat of the Medici, 
in which Cosimo the elder, and Lorenzo the Mag- 
nificent, died. Here the latter presided over bis 
Platonic Academy, and received a visit from 
Savonarola, on his deathbed. Tbe Belvedere 



Boute 26.] 



FLOKENCB — THBATRKg, HOSPITALS, EXCURSIONS. 



185 



above it commands a fine view of Vol cTAmo. 
Farther on. are the Villas of the late Madame 
Catalani and Lord Normanby; Villa Mario, wliich 
belong^ed to Mario, the singer ; Villa Palmicri de' 
tre Vise, where Boccaccio places his story-tellers 
of the Decameron during the plague of 1848, Villa 
Mozzi del Garl)o and Villa Mclzi, both seats of the 
Medici; Villa Guadagni, in which B.dcllaScala 
wrote his History of Florence. Here also is the 
Villa of Baron Ricasoli (the statesman, and a 
descendant of an old Tuscan family), on the 
site of St. Girolamo Convent. The estate produces 
good wine. The Franciscan Badia, or Abbey of 
St. Bartolommeo, is near. 

FleS0l6, or Fcsulea, the ancient Fassulte; an 
Etruscan city, the mother of Florence, on a con- 
spicuous hill, ],iJUO feet high, about 4 miles from 
Florence, now marked by a cathedral. There are 
remains of massive stone walls, and of an amphi- 
theatre. From the "top of Ficsole" half the 
extent of Val d'Arno mp.y be descried, with its 
villas, paiaces, convents, farms, and towns in 
every variety of combination. 

Protestant Cemetery, outside the Porta Phiti. 

Here A.F.Clough,thepocr, is buried (1861); with 
other former residents. On the Bologna Road, is 

FratoUno, marked by a colossal statue of the 
Apennines, by G. da Bologna, GU feet high, in a 
ganlen ; the view is nearly 20- miles all roimd. 

" Who can reach the summit of the hill of Prato- 
Hno and not feel a sense of delight and admiration ? 
Florence, the city which derives its name from the 
abundance of flowers blossoming in its fields and 
gardens, glitters in all the pride of its beauty 
across that SMnlit valley, through which the waters 
of the Amo flow now, as they flowed in the old 
days of I'uscan glory. Its porticoes, Its domes, 
its spires, the massive tower of the Bargello, and 
the dusky prisons hard by, rise in varied groups 
of sculptured marble, of ornamented loggie, of 
painted palaces. Below the Ponte Vecehio, which 
spans the river with its old fashioned jewellers' 
and goldsmiths* shops, the winding Arno is seen 
shut in by swelling hills, whose declivities are dotted 
with churches, castles, and villas. 

"The distant aspect of Florence is brighter than 
the appearance of the streets themselves, which 
are severe and sombre. Yet the more the traveller 
advances into them, the more he becomes aware of 
the greatness of Italian genius. The rugged, 
strongly-built palaces of theGhibcllinesandGuelphs, 
and the numberless churches, bring to his mind 
the grandeur and wealth of the past, a grandeur 
which still sheds light upon the world" — 
Arrirabene. 

2. Passing out of the gate by the Cascine, on the 
Pistoja Road, are — ^the Vilfa H. Donate, a country 
seat of the the Demidoff family (built 1828), who 
farmed the government tobacco revetme ; Petraja 
di Castello and Villa di Quarti, both favourite seats 
of the Medici; La Doccia, a factory of Marquis 
GinorL, famous for its porcelain, called doccia, from 
the dact or conduit, which carries the water to the 
dty; «n4 at length, Poggio a Cajano, the site 



of another Grand Ducal seat. Here Francesco I. 
and Bianca Cappello died of poisoiu 

3. Fi-om the south side of Florence, out by Porta 
S. Miniato, a road passes up the Amo, to Monte 
Santa Croce, and the Franciscan Church of 8. 
Sulvatorc, by Cronaca; above which, in the ceme- 
tery, is the old Church or Basilica of 

*S. Miniato, rebuilt 1013; a beautiful and well- 
proportioned specimen of a Romanesque church, 
165 feet by 70, divided into three aisles. It con- 
tains bas-reliefs, paintings, and frescoes, and an 
ancient crypt, or second choir below the other 
choir. In the sacristy are S. Spinelli's series of 
frescoes from the life of St Benedict. This vener- 
able church stands among cypresses, and is reached 
by a Via Crucis, ending in a beautiful prospect. 
Here Giusti, the poet, was buried, 1849. 

4. The road from Porta Romana passes Poggio 
Imperiale (Poggio means a hill), another seat of 
the Medici. Villa Albizzl, on Monte Bellosguardo, 
in which Galileo lived for a time. Arcetri^ another 
hill, celebrated for its vino verde, or green wine, 
the "verdea soavissima," celebrated by Redi, 
which they say Galileo amused himself by cultiva- 
ting. He was considered a good judge of wine 
and used to say, "II vino e un composite di luce 
e d'amore." On the hill and mark^ by his bust 
over the door, whence there is a fine prospect, 
stands his Torre del Gallo, or Observatory ; and 
close to it the Villa del Oiojello, In which he spent 
his last years under the censure of thcilnquisition. 
"There it was," says Milton, "that I found and 
visited the famous (jalileo, grown old, a prisoner 
('under arrest,' as it were), to the Inquisition, 
for thinking in astronomy otherwise than the Fran- 
ciscan and Dominican licensers thought.'' But, 
"epur si muove," the world moves in spiteof them. 
In this direction is the shrine of Santa Maria Im- 
pruneta, a black Virgin, held in great honour. To 
the west, neat the Pesa, 8 miles, are the tonic 
springs of S. Casciako (Inti, Campana), near a 
house where Machiavelli lived. 

6. Railway Excursion — To Pontassieve, on the 
Arezzo line; whence it is 10 or 12 miles to the 
"Etrurian shades "of Vallombrosa, under the 
Apennines (once a convent); now a Forest School, 
with l> professors, an arl)oretum, and plantations. 
See Bradshaw's Continental Guide. 

The country parts round Florence are divided 
into fields, edged with ditches and poplars, and 
planted with vines, corn, olives, Ac. There are 
two hnrvests yearly. The wheat being thick sown 
and cut down before it is ripe, furnishes the valu- 
able straw which is plaited for Leghorn hats. 
Barley is now grown for beer. The farmers are 
an induf^trious and intelligent race, healthy and 
comfortable, neither rich nor poor. They are not 
able to keep servants, but every member of the 
family works hard. A black beaver hat and 
yellow umbrella are not uncommon. The oxen 
are dun-coloured and stall-fed. 

" In the rich and fertile Valdamo, so thickly 
studded with villas as to have suggested Avlo&tAT'v 
1 well-rem«mb«^«K^Vxi^x>Csw^\N&.>a«w^Vs«fi<5»'^ 



I3<$ 



BBABSHJLW'S ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



they would make two Romes—the fanner and pro- 
prietor look lest to the com and wine than to the 
oil, as a source of profit and wealth. The Oil is the 
great thing. Always below rather than above the 
demand in quantity, the golden oil is readily ex- 
ehangcablc at any moment into solid gold; and by 
a recognised usage of long standing all transac- 
tions arc paid in ready money. Nothing can be 
more primitive and unimproved than the Tuscan 
method of obtaining this valuable produce from 
the berry, or than that of settling accounts between 
landlord and tenant. Almost every estate has its 
villa, the 'country residence of the landowner. 
Often M»/attore or bailiff inhabits it, or a portion 
of it. Mor is it rare for the house of the contadino 
or farmer to be close to that of his landlord, or 
even under the same roof. To the villa is brought 
all the produce of the land. The grapes are there 
pressed into wine, and the olives into oil, by a 
clumsy process which has not varied for centuries. 
The oil when drawn off is poured into small barrels 
of a regular size, containing a certain number of 
iiasks, and supposed to form each half an ass's load. 
Then one barrel to the landlord, and one to the 
tenant, till the whole yield is equally divided be- 
tween them. So also with the wine and so with 
the com. Money rents are almost if not altogether 
unknown. This is the metayer system which 
prevails throughout Italy, and from which the 
only thing excepted is the produce of the beehives, 
which goes entirely to the tenant," — T.A. TroUope. 

Florence is a delightful place to live in. It has a 
fine climate; provisions are cheap : there are good 
libraries and reading-rooms; the people are 
sprightly and polished, and noted for thrift. There 
is a saying that when a child is sent to school they 
give him a piece of bread and half a lemon for 
luncheon. His greediness makes him cat the 
lemon first ; and his teeth being set on edge, he is 
obliged to leave the bread, which is thus spared 
for another meal. 

It was founded by a colony of Roman soldiers 
settled here by Octavianns. In the thirteenth and 
fourteenth centuries the republic was at the 
height of its prosperity, through its great trade, 
its banking operations, and its manufactures of 
silk, woollen, «fcc. Its revenue was 300,000 florins, 
equal to £60,000 in the present day. 

The gold florin (which took its name here) or 
zccchino, had a figure of St. Giovanni Battista on 
one side. Large transactions were entered into 
with Edward III. of England, to whom the citizens 
lent upwards of a million and a half of florins; 
and his inability to repay it produced distress and 
bankruptcy. 

Florence became predominant over its neigh- 
bours, Pisa, Siena, Ac. ; but bitter party contests 
raged at home, between the Guelphs (neri, or 
blacks) and Ghihellines (Bianchi, or whites); in 
£fa& of rrhJch Danto, who was a white, was 
^^»ie«a«/ Z^r "quel/o fng-rato popolo ;naIigno," in 
'^ ^ A fore/g^n adventurer, Walter de Drietwe, 



who had been called to rale them for a time, was 
in 1348, also expelled ; and the anniversary of this 
"cacciata di Duca d' Atene," or expulsion of the 
Duke of Athens as he is styled, was long observed, 
by a procession of the Oonfaloniere, the Knights of 
St. Stephen, an Order created to fight the Saracens, 
and all the trades to St. Michele. Every citizen 
was obliged to be free of the twelve greater 
or lesser Arti or trade companies, and each of 
the seven Arti 3Iaggiori, in tum, elected a Priori 
or Chief Magistrate every two months. Thegrandi 
or nobles were excluded. This form of government 
subsisted more or less till the Medici obtained 
supreme power in 1512, by the overthrow of P. 
Lodcrino, the Perpetual Gonfaloniere. 

After the peace of Villafranca, 1860, the people 
made up their mind, come what would, not to take 
back the Grand Duke. The arrival of the Com- 
mendatore Buoncompagni as Governor-General, and 
the energy of Ricasoli as Dictator (descended 
from a Florentine family of the thirteenth century), 
settled the matter, against the intrigues in behalf 
of the old dynasty; and the annexation of Central 
Italy was virtually accomplished A plot was tried 
to blow up Buoncompagrni and others, at a ball, at 
the Palazzo della Crocelle; and even some English 
residents were found to exert themselves in oppo- 
sition to the new order of things. It remained the 
temporary capital of Italy till 1871, when the king's 
government moved to Rome, followed by the British 
and other legations. 

Among the natives or residents of Florence in 
later times are Giusti and Leopardi, the poets; 
Nicolinl, author of "Amaldo di Brescia," who, 
when prosecuted for his liberal opinions, was 
protected by the late Grand Duke; Count 
Guicciardini, the leader of the Protestant party; 
Giuseppe Dolfi, the patriotic baker, who was 
denounced by Lord Normanby ; P. Giudici, author 
of the "History of Italian Literature;" Guerazzl, 
the author of "La Battaglla di Benevento," who 
was sent to Elba, the Tuscan Botany Bay, and be- 
came minister during the events of 1849; and O. P. 
Vieusseux,editorofthe"ArchivioStoricoItaliano." 

ROXJTE i^Q— Continued, 

Florence to Rome, vi& Empoll, Siena, 
Orvleto, Orte, &c. 

The old high road to Rome, now done by rail; 
and oflTering an alternative route to the more inland 
rail vid Arezzo, Peragia, Foligno, Ac, hi Route 
27. Since 1875, these two rails have been linked 
together between Cortona and Chlusi in such a 

way as to give a Direct Rail to Rome, vid 

Pontassievc (see page 143), Arezzo, Cortona, 
Terentola, Chlusi, Orvieto, Orte, Borghetto, Mon- 
torso, Monte Rotondo, and Rome; or 1&9 miles, 
in 8 to 12 hours. All these are described in Routes 
26, 27, which are left, to some extent, as foi-merly 
arranged, to suit the convenience of trareilers 
going leisurely from place to place. 



PI^BEHCB, OBSTILDO, POOOIBOHSI, BIENi. 



nnnok to H. AmlitnJ 
SapdMW ei 



::=a 



Cn.tlelioae 

AWnno 

AltlElLuig... 



"If anr an«," UTS Count Aninbtnc, "ibonld go 



. He ntll 



Tonte & Elu (Btat.). TnihorUhi 
UinlalDilelTnlFKlil. onahlUi tomillo 
the Vicar of the Qorman £inp«ran in 1 

Oiattl-Fiorentliio <stftt.}, popntntt 

neuin old nilltury pOBt, f onlfled bj- the Pii 

OsrUIdo (Stat) AproitT iittio mil 

(popoJollon, fl.SI»>, over'— •-'—"-•-■"■■ 



n Hllla, tbe birthplaci 



ol th* Roccs or Cual 



bnlllflpmile dl erislnilo, or bridge ot glnti, d.v 
talbaTallsy! butthatbUoiaRlDcomlUHriiilri'lv 
tb* cbuni of his »Tla'— <T. A. TaOLLOpn'r^ Impr 
llauiifaWimdrrrr}. Lindor, in oneof Jij. -Jn 
ginary ContMHlt^<m^" doncribei Boccaccio n rcri 
Hon o[ Petmrcb In tbia honse. From ibo ti>]i <■! 
lb«* il n finv of S. Oimlgnitm, or Qcmlriniif.. a 
ltatvelntofFan,10ml]oBoff; n cnriouA old di'cn j 

iblrtf-one churcba. Tb*prlnfl|Ml onols full 
tT«cou,b7ablr1sndnlo,Ooiin]l,Ac. ItwnnAlHn 
flBhtlni wlib Iti nolgibonin, Siena and Volieirn 

PpCBlbaiui (Stat.) ropubitiuii, i.ood. t 

old ^Simt SouM: "" -' - - 



fltrongly-bullt buttlonienli. Ibo lar^ 
bridges, and otl* 



utle »aa 



nearly th 



If tlio fl«t 
>e 8. Dabnatio, 



to UcnaamiiDU. near Poila S. Loiean 

SISNA (Stat). 
The indent Sran JuUa, on the Via ClodU, 

/Tofcli.- Graod Hold dl Siena; Grand Hotel 
Contlnenlnl: Le Arme d'Inghllterra! La Seal*. 
ChtantI and olhei wlneg are to be had. 

Poit and Ttligraph Ogla. Vis CaTonr. 

EaifiUli Oiurth Servia nt Hotel Continental. 

•C/ilef Ol.jer-U of Notiii. — Piaiia del Cimpo, 



MWHioBtbaleft. 



to Oolle d'Elia, <»i 

i>rtheStan>'<.<'il>'t 



Palaaio 


Pubblico, Duomo 


8,l>offl 


enieo.Aeaden.7. 








1M^.'V"™ 














as 




ndarth 
















.Trir;»,' 












sr." 








leeaiicloncdlsgi 


iKxtr 


























VSJSS 

















1]» ehDKh of B. Domlnio, la an oratory, 
daata CW(r«w ««I<H m*^t>ni>,^Ma .'• 



BBADBnAn-'» IT ALT. 



br h«r iclifn and exertl<in 


VEntln. BulBit 




PapMy; who by umc (cvm 


LULntlngl of Qooi 






^. MutlJiir. pori 


lit of 0,F. de Rldcli and hi> 






d«ma.Bl. Gcroino, St Oretcorj-, 


J- . mlraclf, that rteh.dtr^ 


ic. (IJli): iin< 


Jr'rii'.itt'"," \d't^L^ 



a aaamca h*r bj pntltng ■ rli 



IS BOool Bf palntliie btgsn In lb< 
lodi BUDnbiBCKna. I..Mcminl,Bii 



PorU CimulllA. on Ihc Fli 
IUH|ilub1 cln«rlpHon:— "C< 
dlt." Porta Plii^nl bns Si 
Katldlf. Porta Fonte 
DomlnlcaD Church and Ihc 
erected IIUS I7 ndlamlnr 



,-lrgiii (MM), i spechiM 



Family. Csnilalory Room-^CclllDg b]- BegchCuiiiI, 

' iBct *nd tho lleht endiuUly IncreiubiK tovardt 

iiallTci. Prelorl Boom— S. Splnellfi cleifll or 
< IwdTB lulnllnei of Frederic I (BarbamiBa} and 
' Alexander III. fills dell* Pace-frtacoei by A. 

i tiesunlSM™d™nl.hed''abouilBM'"onlh™ffr; 



™pli^lIJ^ 



The -Plat, 



nd mmllcned by I 

Villorh Emmielt, 

I lai ge paved wsjctelrelc rtopbig to the 



outh.bordcredhvarcada<andliir|rebnl)din|t . 

■nblTeB),'a'haiidKiiDe pIlB, built by Plnx II. a> 

thc'p^uirp^blilico. or liw (Vnirt "^iid Prlhcu; 
with ll> till tower: and tho Caaino de' NoUlI, 
tonnerlythe Chamberof Cominerce. or LogKia of 
fi. Paolo. hnlU 111T. An elegant founlaln, named 
rbitle Oala (or loyfnl), when (he water first ai>- 
w red I 1MB. le a modem reprodnctton ot the 

Tb rlgl reilcts, In poor condition, are In the 
Ope d Dunmo. The Haecs. railed 11 Paglio 
yiaif held Snd July, and ISlh AugnW. or 



mlda, Btctuca, Ac. Among tho Kulptutea which 
forcrlt lie Delia Querds'a propbciiand angela, 
lud nuuiy cnrloiii bcraldle nnlmali figuring In Uu 
•mii of lowni once allied wllh Siena (reprennted 
hy a »he-wolf). a> the tlork tew Pemglai goiwe, 
Orrlclo: elepbimt. Koine t dragon, Plutoja i hare, 
Plsat rhlnoecroa,Vllerha; horu.AreiiO! Tnlture, 

The ^miM aland onl?DDi. The lofty Uock Tower,' 
hy tbs brothers Agnolo and AgMIlno. at Elena, 



ihl> Die^sivai 



l> e towu h^l. It wn> Ihu* celebrated • 

In to Lmnianucl'i progreti In IHU, througb | '' 
C ta -. (aBOSTOBYsnohnffffiwBa.) I J 

Th Piaaaa Pabbllio, -t Delia Blgnorla, M a ^ I 
l^lhe tarthnnakeot mi: III high and graceful I 

w/fca yj7/,»ffi'Amftfl/iraHooaj— Sodoroa'aMadonno 
-^ St^lm; tnd F, iMrentettl't Coroiatloa 0/ the | ■ 



Includbig Gregory VII and Alexander III. 

I natives. Tlio 

Mgna {18ll>. 



pabillng^ h) 

tluinghtai nnchof, that tbey 

the old octagon Bi^Mirg ot Bt. 



I rich with m■^ble^ allTer, lapla lamll, 



Route 26.] 



SIENA-— CHUBCHES, ETC. 



139 



bronzes, Ac, and has Beminrs RtatneR of 8t. 
Jerome and Magdalene, and C. Maratta^s mosaics. 

S. Giovanni Battista Chapel, by B. Peruzzi. It 
has Delia Qacrcia*s Adam and Eve; and Dona- 
tellers statue of St. John the Baptist. The octagon 
marble pulpit is a celebrated work, by Kiccolb da 
Pisa and his sons. On the Icfl of the nave is the 
Librtria, founded by Pius II. (iEneas Sylvius), 
and built by his nephew Cardhial Piccoloniini 
(Pius III.). It is ornamented, outnide, with ara- 
besquen, by Marrina, and a fresco by Pinturicchio ; 
one of the eleven gaudy pictures (the rest being 
Inside), illustrating the principal events in Pius 
II/s life and painted I3U3-7; H. Kicci's tomb of 
MascagrnI; and another of B. Bandhii, with angels, 
designed by M. Angelo; bas-relief of Donatello; 
but only a few books, and antiphonals full of old 
miniatures. 

The Opera del Duomo contains a beautiful antique 
group of the TItrre Oracfs, found at Rome in the 
fifteenth century. 

The Cathedral Square is surrounded by the 
Palazzo Rcalc,the Great Hospital ,and the Palazzo 
del Magnifico. The Hospital was founded by a 
shoemaker, and bears the motto, "Sittor ultra 
crepidam." The Royal Palace comprises part of 
an earlier cathedral, never completed. 

S. Affostino's Church, near Porta Tufi ; a cross, 
built 1756, by Vanvitelli, annexed to tlie Toleomci 
College, an edifice in the Florentine style. It con- 
tains pictures by Perugino (Christ on the Cross), 
Sodoma, Matteo di Siena, Spagiioletto, •li. Menimi. 

Del Car mine, near Porta S. Marco, has a clock 
and cloister, by H. Peruzzi, with paintings by 
Beccafumi, Sodoma, and Casolani, a native artist. 
It is only open early in the morning. 

La Coneexione, near Porto Romana, rebuilt 1528, 
by B. Peruzzi, has marble columns in the nave, 
and imintings by Matteo da Siena, Casolani, 
L. Merami. 

*5. Domenieo, near Porta Fonte Branda, was built 
1220-1465, and much damaged by the earthquake 
of 1797. Here are Sodoma's three pictures of the 
Ecstacy, Fainting, *c., of Santa Caterina da Siena, 
who was a Domhiican sister; and her portrait by 
A. dl Vanni. It has G. di Paolo's Madonna (1426) 
and Matteo di Siena's St. Barbe. Near it, in the 
Oratorv , or House, of St. Catherine, which occupies 
the site of the dyer's shop in which she was bom, 
are found frescoes of events in her life, by Vanni; 
such as her receiving the Stigmata, by Sodoma; 
and her visit to the Body of St. Agnes. She went 
to Avignon to bring back the Pope In the cell 
and in the churches of S. Cristo/oro and S. Ber- 
nardino, are fre«coe', &c., by Pacchiarotto (who 
was herelill 1535). The Fonte Branda faces the 
church. 

Fonte Qiusta Church, near Porta Camollia, built 
1482, to commemorate a victory over tlie Floren- 
tines. It contains B. Peruzzi's tine Sibvl nn- 
nouncbig the Birth of Christ to Augustus; a 
gloTC and other ex-voto offerings sent by Cplum- 
t>n«, und a beautif nl altar. 



S. FranctKO, near Porta Ovlle, a large church 
built 1826, by Agnolband his brother Agostino. 
Here is a Madonna and Child, a master-piece of 
Lorenzetti's. Fine frescoes by Sodoma are in the 
Oratory of ^. Bernadino, close by, with paintings 
by Beccnfumi, V. Salimbeni. Ac. 

S. Quirico, near the Botanic Gardens, contains 
two good i)icturcs, viz., Vanni' s Descent from the 
Cross and Casolnni's Flight into Egypt. 

S. Martino, at the back of the Palazzo Pubblico; 
a fine church, with a front by Fontana, 1613. It 
contains Delia Quercia's coloured statues, Gaer- 
cino's Martj-rdom of St. liartholomew, Guide's 
Circumcision, and a curious Battle-piece by L. Cini,- 
w1k> was present (1526) when it was fought outside 
the Camullia gate. 

S. Spirito, near Porta Pispini, built 1345; the 
cupola, lfi04; the front added by B. Peruzzi. It 
has paintings by Sodoma, Vanni, Salimbeni (four 
subjects in the Life of St. Hyacinth) ; and a good 
fresco by Fra Bartolommeo. 

The Istiluto di Belle Arti, or * Academy, out of 
the Via Cavour, has a useful and interesting 
series of Siena artists, especially the early masters, 
arranged in six rooms, by Professor Mussini. It 
begins with a St. Peter and St. John, by Pierrollni 
of Siena (about 1100?), and a Madonna and Child, 
on wood, by Guide di Ghezzo da Siena (1221), 
claimed by the Sienese as the earliest in modem 
art. It also comprises Sodoma's fine fresco of 
Christ at the Pillar There are a few by Titian, 
Annibnle C'arracci, &c.; also cartoons of Becca- 
funii's ornamented pavement, in the cathedral; 
some good specimens of wood carving, for which 
Siena is celebrated; and a mutilated marble group 
of the Grace'. Open daily (except, as usual, 
Sundays and holidays), 9 to 3; admission, 1 lira. 

Facing the Palazzo Pubblico is the University^ 
founded 120 (. It has the monument of Aringhieri, 
a jurist, by Goro di Gregorio (1874). 

The Biblioteca is in the room of the Academy 
degl' Intronati (i.e., the Heavies or Stupids). It 
contains 60,000 volumes and 5,000 manuscripts; 
among which are a prose version of the .£neid 
of the thirteenth century, Greek Evangelaries of 
the ninth century, brought from Constantinople. 
Also Letters of St. Catherine of Siena, dictated 
by her (she could not write); and Letters of L. and 
F. Socinus or Sozzino (both natives), the founders 
of Socininnism: with Designs of B. Peruzzi, &c. 
Open daily 10 to 2, and 5 to 8. 

The Lizza is a promenade laid out in 1779 on the 
site of a fortress, with fine views, and leading up 
to Fort S. Marbera (1660) Open to the public. 

Most of the Palaces here are without the dis- 
tinguishing court, and some of them are in a half-!> 
Gothic style, with curious fret-work in the windows. 

Palazzo Buonsignori, near the ex-Dncal Palace, 
is Italian-Cjothic, qf brick, with terra-cotta omai 
meuts (n the f rout. l^«.\.^.,\^Si2(v^««^?^x^. 



pabuto dil Uagnltet, tint the uthgdml, bn\lt 
l»M,byP.Petroccl.tTrMilofBienii. Machlayelli 

Mlrtrtd to >upr™ie power. Uronie wotk by 

JWuni iVcT* (1900) coniplcteljF rwtoroi by 
pTHcnt pTonrieior. 
Palaiio Ptntlomitif-BiniBiH. iwii i 

Chnrch, hn> B. Pcrnzzl'iificiicoof Sell 

Hon portrult o[ Laure; Frs BanuloniUHD ■ oaTuu- 

Pattaa Ponini, ttslaif the Carmbic ChDrcli. 
built by Peruul. Thli architect and piUnUr fat 
born Ht Accslaiw, Dear Slona ; and after building 
Tllla Fameilana, at Rome, for the rich menbanl 
Agonlixi Clil^ fas became clly ardilteel at SIcna, 
■Dd built the wall), *c 

Palatta TaArnri, an ambient ImiK. erectedltOC: 



ITilT. 




[Sectl 


on 1. 


Bliialiui«i(»UU o' 

Kntu Lmgu. In aiiteaian 

TorritaOltat.) Tut 

Jinan- (Bmlewr'" " 


■1 


r?jS 


inelent 

a,4M. 


mtepUlcUlLO and a»l' 



I IMons I-aliiiat. 



,a.aM),ontl 



^1 hlBh, a 



.city 






OlH Botanical Gardena in at the back of 
Great Honidlnt. Tha larits neatrt, neit the 
Una Fiibbllai,le Iron the dealgn-oC BIbbleni 

About t ullca [mm tho city i> Ihe Vaia £tlc 



prerlouaTy OBts 
■nrronndcd by 
OIlielD Conreii 



ace ; and near It are the Om- 
Wnh-pl.ce' of two I'gpc^ Ptua 11. and Flua III., 

OUlIsl (Stftt.), wlicra the branch from Tanm- 

tOlAciiinealn(RoDt«t7). The ancient (VuWiini, one 
of the twelve allied clllci of Ihe Emtcann. the eeat 
of "LanParKnaotClailDni,"olHacaulay'a Lay; 



ir-hy valley 



nhe< 






cna, Ibe ralf pae-ee near Monte Aperto. 
the great •letory otihc Ghibclllnetof 
uover the FlorenllncMn 1260; and 



ae eighteen 
i otlwr anliqnUlea dlsfovered In 
re collected at 



Bclnila. rucgla Oajelll : the lail aald (wllhont 
aulhorllf) to be the lomb of Poriena. <laKribcd 
hy Pliny. IV.nie ChrlHIan cataoomba are al Santa 



AlClauO (Btftt.), popnlatl 



(■tat.) : to the left 

^■onDd by tho monh 
mUm (Stat.l. not I 



St S. OlDvanno d'Ai 



M feet high; BOCCtUtrMlR, and Oroi- 



MtO (Ron 
The neil place on (ho main line 1 1 
BkPOltmo ISt&t.), near a Illlle 
IDK place on a hill, 1,200 feot high 
the luniiner, (or II> gnlphur SprbiRa 



! (H(t4 dallft Fl«Te(pop.. e.iion),on a hill. In ilw 
I iHDVliice of Perugliio. the birthplace al Hetio 



FtenUe (Stftt.), from whci 






' to llie klnidoni of I<a1y. IViimlnlion, KDOO. 

It aUndion ■ voicanlo hill, l.tuu teet high, eloM 



j^oate 26.] 



CUlUSl, ORYlSTO, BOLSBNA, MONTEFIASCONB. 



HI 



was formerly a residence of many Popes of the 
G\ielph party who found a refuge here. Resides 
the Palazzo Pubblico(Town Hall) and the College, 
its most remarkable building is the handsome 
*Duomo, an interesting specimen of Italian-Guthic, 
founded in honour of the miraculous Host at 
Bolsena, and of an ancient image of the Madonna. 
It was begun in 1290, by L. Maitini, of Siena, 
nearly finished in the fourteenth century, but not 
finally completed till about 1600, after nearly 400 
architects, sculptors, painters, &c., had contributed 
to build and adorn it. Its thrce-gablcd Front, like 
that of Siena, is 132 feet wide and 160 feet high, 
ornamented, chiefly on the four pilasters, with 
a profusion of carvings, mosaics, and statues, by 
Giovanni da Pisa and his pupils; the subjects 
being events from the Old Testament, the Life of 
Christ, the Last Judgment, Hell, and i'aradisc. 

The church contains the following objects of 
notice: — Colossal statues of the twelve Apostles; 
the best being Giovanni da Bologna's 8t. ^ atthew, 
and Ippolite Hcalza's St Thomas; T. Znccaro's 
Cure of the Blind Man ; Muzianc's Christ in the 
Garden. 

The paintings in the tribune and stained windows 
are of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries ; 
Mochi*8 two statues of the Annmiciation, at the 
high altar. S. Mosca's Adoration of the Magi. 
San Micheirs Visitation : a group of nine figures, 
executed by Mosca's son, aged fifteen years only. 
Scalza's pulpit ; his statue of Ecce Homo; and a 
fine one of St. Sebastian. The 

Madonna Chapel— has an old image of the Virgin 
della Stella; statues of Adam and Eve ; Scalza's 
Pietk, a group of four figures (1579); frescoes in 
the ceiling, by Fra Beato and B. Gozzoli; and L. 
Signorelli's fine frescoes on wood of the Last Judg- 
ment, Paradise, and Hell, painted 1499, remarkable 
for the beauty of some of the figures and the curi- 
ous mixture of heathen poets and mythological 
characters with Christian. 

Chapel of Santissimo Corporate — so called from 
the Napkin stained by the Bleeding Host of Bolsena, 
is richly ornamented. It has R. da Montelupi's 
statue of Christ ; a silver reliquary containing the 
napkin, by U. Vieri, a Siena goldsmith (1338), with 
twelve enamel paintings of the Miracle of the Host. 

Mtueo Municipale, in the Opera del Duomo, 
opposite the Cathedral, contains Etruscan remains 
from the necropolis near the town, which should 
be visited. 

S. Andrea and S. Oiovinale are old churches. 

S. Domenico Church, has Amolfo's fine tomb of Car- 
dinal di Brago, and S. Mcmmi's Virgin and Saints. 
Some old Palaces and Convents deserve notice. 

The Pozto di S. Patrizio (i.e., St. Patrick) is a 
deep well in the tufa rock, with two spiral stair- 
cases down to the water, constructed by Sangallo; 
wide enough for mules to go down the 250 steps. 
In 1863 some very interesting Etruscan Tombs were 
found at Poggio del Roccolo (1 hour's dnve), 
with frescoed walls as Aresh as ever. Another has 
since b«en discovered at Porta Cassia. 

Orvitto pro^aces ȣoo4 wbito wine. Al)Qat 10 



or 12 miles west of it is Aequapendentt^ an old town 
on a cliff, so called from its cascades; the birth- 
place of Fabricius, the anatomist. 

From Orvicto the Rail is continued past AlvlftnO. 
Attlgliano (i>ranch to Viterbo, page 142), ana 
other unimportant stations, to Orto, and thence 
to Rome, by Civita Castellana (page 161). 

If the Road be taken it brings you to 
BOLSENA 

(12 miles), on the Lake of Bolsena, In former Papal 
tcrritory,near the ancient Etrurian city of Volsinii^ 
on Via Cassia, taken after a siege, 266 b.c., by the 
Consul Fulvlus Flaccus. A new Volslnli was 
founded, in which Sejanus, the favourite of Tiberias, 
was born. There is a Gothic Castle on the heights. 
Of the antiquities found here, in the sepulchres, 
Temple of Nurscia, <kc., a granite vase and urn with 
fragments of pillars, face Santa Cristina Church ; 
and other urns are in the vestry. This church is 
the scene of the miracle of the Bleeding Host, re- 
lated in Church legends, and made the subject of one 
of Raphael's pictures In the Vatican. In 1264, a 
Bohemian priest, troubled with doubts about the 
doctrine of transubstantlatlon, was saying mass 
here, when he was astonished to see the Napkin 
which held the Host or consecrated wafer, stained 
with blood, proving, of course, that the wafer was 
converted into real flesh. Struck with the pretended 
miracle, he went to Urban IV., at Orvleto, confessed 
his error and received absolution. The Napkin, or 
Corporale, was carried in solemn procession to Or- 
vleto, where a fine church was. In time, raised 
over the relic, and the festival of Corpus Domini, 
on Holy Thursday, appointed to commemorate It. 

The Lake of Bolsena, the "great Volslnlan mere" 
of Macaufay*s ballad. Is a shallow and unhealthy 
piece of water, about 70 square miles, surrounded 
bv picturesque basalt hills, woods, and vineyards 
of red and white wines. It abounds with wild fowl 
and eels, which are excellent stewed In wine. On 
oifc of the two Islands (Martana), Amalasuntha, 
daughter of Theodorlc the Goth, was confined and 
strangled In 535 a.d. The peak of Montefiascono 
is seen away to the south-east. 

The Post towns from Bolsena to Rome are as 
follow, the route being along the old Via Cassia. — 



Montefiascono 

Viterbo 

L* Imposta 

Ronciglione 

Montcrosl (or Mon 
torso) 



Post. 
1 



1 
1 
1 



Post 

Baccano 1 

La Storta 1 

Rome..... \\ 



(Equal to 65 miles.) 
The road passes a forest of oaks neai" the lake, to 
MoNTRFiAscoNE, an old cathedral town (popula- 
tion, 2,700), on a conspicuous hill, noted for its sweet 
Muscat wine. It contains a Duomo with a cupola, 
built by Sammlchell; a medlroval castle; and a 
Gk>thlc church of S. Flavlano, which has the tomb of 
the German Canon Fugger, with the well known 
carious epitaph, written bv, hiA ««^«s*,—"^;^x 



VI^EBBO 

by nil (J1|iiille>)[roinAttigliiina(ir]e page 141). 

Popuitll™, S0.840. 

NsUU: AnpilQ! AqultsNin. 

Tlila It tbo first Iniponant city readied b; tbfr 
WAi rebuilt by the Lwnbanla out of Ibe rulniof 

Gontabiliis nfly Cfanrcliei ; boa paved tl reels; and 
ie rrmarkable for (he number of lie /'oKnfofni, the 

PluEB dells Bi>eca(by VlgnoKliM). lli'Paro- 

petled t9 eubiDll to tbe'Ponitiri, snd give up to 
Itaem Ibe chabi of lla prlnclpul gate. Adrien IV.. 
an Engltsliniiui, U ujd to have nisdc Ibe Emperor 
Krederlclt Burbaroiia liold lil< itlrrnii ben; (HJS), 
■n-hllc be nuiunttd bi» oiule. before gtvins hiin tbe 
Btailufiipaciii bul Ibemcelbii really look jdacc at 
Kopl (page 1(1), nearer Rome. 

The anludral of S. Lorenio It ■ Gothic cburcli, 
oiithe Bite o(n Temple or Hereulea. II has tomha 
of PopCB Johu XXI. (killed U th 



he Vlrgbi! a 



wai ouljf elected Ui obedience to Charles of Anjon, 
by starving out the CuncldTC 

inrcopfaaguB. containing the ashes of a certaEa 
^tmra/at OJnllaiiH, of (be Ibineeulh ceptury. 

~ its tta fnaiM 0/ ^diiw V., and 

aoe 



larcoiOiagl In tbe court, with tlw 

■0 Uadomia, by L. da Vltcrbo and 

8. irurffae. belonging to the Dorlaa, 
1 alalrcase, and tlio portrait and bed 
Ollinida Hnldalebliil. Innocent X.'b 

j^irawiriiow Iha FouniUIng Hoe- 



A[ tbe Church 1 
Orte Road), bull 

IstheVlllaLaiitl 



Imlno ridge. 



byVlgnoU; and still fir- 

-jt of the Alhanl fanlly, 

'lew of the Tiber tot 

towards Orte Is the Bastano Lake. 

lied the Etruscans, b.c! MO. At Orte (BtfttX 

:«hll»hert byAuguttni, anil nnwng other relic* 
a bridge enllod Ponte d'Agosllno. 





SlmK 




Hine character. They run In le 




rked by rude scolptnre. 


and 1 




Lt-Kpopnlallon, «,(».) 1. 






rBiinlhls(toiitiis,theseBt 


oftb. 


atePrinea 


UonapaMe; who made 1 




lectionaal 


ties here and published 




unl of hia 


nationi. 






big Vlterbo, the road aw 


lids t 


e. lop. of 


:nnilno m 












riSMl"t''hb!h,'^"lr!« 


wblc 




noramle prospect Is enjoyed, taking In Iba 


c^ the Valley of the Tib. 


r. Hon 


ntSoratte, 





ItoNrioLiovi (population, 4.0IX», an old ptac^ 
with an old custlo. Iron workii. Ac, In a ravine w 

, tbe ancient ioou Ciminiui, In a deep cratar. 
jr three mHn eonth'Weil of It la Setu. tto 
U 8iitniio,o« tin ^na Catsla, with iM Roiua 



of EonelElloni 
Vignola. tor C. 

by Ziiccarc^ A 
Itallmi style. 

Fartbcr on, tov 

II. (SceKouI 

lugDa or CitmB 



I wnlls. Tho palntl 



n Eoncl^rllono 1b Sopi, Ilie Elrnmi 



hllti, romid Likx B 



In. In Ihle iiet^hbourhon 



la CLaudls, clow 



111 im. 



nnotbcr fnmoiis Etni»»n cily, oil the River Vre- 

■mbmeiilc, oicapt oiio boy, who llvoil iDpcrpeiuato 
thafamlly. ItlWUkenl>ylllaDictato^Ca^lll]ll^ 
■fur B ten years' siege. A Tlslt from laols to 
Veil reqnlru two lo thiw hann, uhI a gnlde. 

The road then passes the Touit) of Nero, or I'. V. 
Martanns. with Fraseatl nnfl Albano In vlcwi and 
FbkU IfotU. an oW Boman brIdgB orer the Tiber, 

Totbe rLRhl and left arc Bt. Petel's, Uiol>i-otcstaiit 
Cemetery, ftc. and i>e enter 

Bome by the old Flamtninii Gale, near the 
EiiBllsh quarter. (See Route 3S,) Coinbig from 
Honlorio by rail, tlie Uae paasea Uonta ROMUdD 
(8i»t.). 1» mllea from Borne, near Meatana, where 
a stone PlUar tecotde (he nuneg of Ihoso who (ell 
an KonsiubcT, IMT, when Oaribaldl was defeati:! 
by (he Papal traopi, 



HOMTBVAUCUI. 143 

HOXJTE SV. 
Florence to BOifie, via, Arena, Pemglk, 
AbbUI, FoIlKao, Spoleto, Temi, Orta, aaA 
down me Tiber. 



station, and t: 
CompLobbl ... 



Ounplolibl <8tat.),w 



iidB Is (lie l-rnta Haxuo rld^ <4,TM feet 
goree of whlKh Is VallombrBia, 13 miles 
iMleve (Route IS). Camnldoll, another 

Lhii;, la hl^ up tho Apennines, about 
It niay be readied by the »ew Una 
fruni Areiio lo FmloTecchlo-Sda, 

nlles on tool, or carriage from Poppi 

O (Btot), populnlion, 4,S8S. abonl S 
Valloiubroaa. On the other side of tli* 

for Its fine prospect over Val "Adrno. 
uccliil Palace now belougB Id the Cureiul 
ere tho upper Amo, or Val d'Anuj dl 

(Stall So called from the manner In 
rlvcrtuUlhrough tbeellSi. Tho line 



Su aiovaiml (BUtt) 



email ealhednl 
r Dirty Tom, and 



rss&st lA ft .M TOM-.Sofc^SM 



144 



BJIADBHAW^S ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



A&BZ20 (fttat) 



The ancient Arretium^ now the capital of a pro- 
vince, and a bishop's see. 
Population, 12,000. 
Hotels: Vlttoria; Inghilterra. 

^ it stands on two bills, in a fine plain, 3 miles from 
the Arno, on or near the site of the old Estmscan 
city, which was occupied by the Consul Flaminius, 
when Hannibal made his flank movement down the 
Clusine marshes, and defeated him at Thrasymene. 
The presetit walls, 3 miles round, with four gates 
in them, were made by its warlike bishop, Guido 
l^arlati, who fortified the town, made roads, fought 
the Pope and the Florentines in several pitched 
battles, was a good statesman, and raised Arezzo 
for a time to a great height of power. He died at 
last in his bed, 1327, in spite of a thundering 
excommunication from the Vatican. In 1384 it 
was taken and plundered by Ingelram de Goucy, or 
Cosse, who sold it to Florence; and it was stormed 
by the French in 1800. It is well built, the streets 
being paved, and comparatively wide and airv. 
The main street is called Corso Vit. Emanuele. At 
the top of one hill is the citadel ; and near the 
Passionist Convent there are remains of an Amphi- 
theatre, overlooking the town. In this, the principal 
square, are the Palazzo Fubblico, Theatre, and old 
Church of La Pieve. 

Arezzo is remarkable as the birthplace of many 
eminent men, from Msecenas downwards. The 
modem list includes Petrarch, accidentally bom 
here, hit parents being Florentines ; Vasari, the 
painter, architect, and art-historian; Ouido or 
Guittone d* Arezzo, the inventor of the musical 
staff and the musical scale, (to, re, mi, &c; another 
Guittone, a poet of Dante's age ; Pope Julius III. 
and Cardinal Bibbiena; Leonardi Bruni TArctino, 
whose monument is in Santa Croce ; and Pietro 
TAretino, the satirist, sometimes called *'I1 
Divino," being one of those, says Forsyth, who 
"owe their celebrity to the meanness of their con- 
temporaries;'* Cesalpini, the naturalist; and Redi, 
the scholar, and author of " Bacco in Toscano," 
who of course praises the wine of his native town, 
as "Fa superbo TAretino.'' Under the name of 
Alleatico, it ranks as the best in Tuscany. 

Michael Angelo, who was himself bom at Castel 
Caprese, near this town, puts the credit of this 
"nella sottilit2l deir aria" to the fineness of the 
air. Tablets of these celebrated " Arctine," great 
and small, are seen all over the city. 

In the old or upper town, called Sobborgo, stands 
the 

Cathedral of S. Donato, built about 1277, in the 
Italian-Gothic style, by Amolfo di Lapo, and Mnr- 
garitono, who was an Arezzo man, and a painter, 
sculptor, and architect, and is buried hero. It was 
enlarged in the fifteenth century, and ornamented 
with fine stained windows by a French monk, 
Gulielmo da Marsiglia; who also began the frescoes 
^/'/Ae wva/i, SniaheA bv Castellnci d' Arezzo. High 
- " v; bjr OJoTiumidM Pi$a, (ITSS). with ba«-reliefs 

^pmtnmgaiat Tomb mid tmgit%,ke.,^iT$X'» 



lati, the fighting bishop, by the brothers Agostino 
and Agnolo (1827-80), with a series of sixteen bas- 
reliefs of the events in his stirring life. Margari- 
tone's tomb of Gregory X., who died here. Statue 
of Ferdinand de' Medici, by Giovanni da Bologna. 
Monuments of Redi, Margaritone, &c. 

Among the paintings are a Magdalene, by Piero 
della Francisca; a St. Jerome, by Delia Gatta; a 
Judith, by a townsman, Benvenuto Aretino. 

Close by the Duomo is Petrarch's Ilotae, in which 
he was bom, 1804; it is two storeys high, and has 
an inscription on the front. At the churches oi 
Annuntiata and S. Bernardo are paintings by 
Vasari and Spinello Arcthio. 

S. Francesco contains some good frescoes of tha 
Legend of the Cross, by P. della Francesca; an 
Annunciation, by Spinelli; and a window by 
Gulielmo da Martiglia. S. Maria della Pieve, in 
Piazza Grande, on the site of a Temple of Bacchns, 
a very old church, partly re-built, 1262, by Mar- 
chione, and later restored, has three rows, one 
over the other, of round, angular, and twisted 
columns in its front, with many figures. It con- 
tains Vasari's St. George and the Dragon, and 
other paintings by him, with family portraits. 

The Hospital of Santa Maria della Misericordia is 
a Gothic building of the fourteenth century. 'It is 
now the seat of the law courts. At the Abbey or 
Badia of 8. Fisore is a large painting of the Feast 
of Ahasnerus, by Vasari; and a ceiling by Pozzi. 
There is a Public Museum of bronzes, mi^olica 
urns, and vases of red ware, for which Arezzo 
was celebrated. 

The Palazzo Pubblico, or Town Hall, built 1882, 
has been modemised. Next to this is a gallery or 
Loggia, 400 feet long ; a handsome pile, by Vasari. 
Here is a statue of Ferdinand III. with portraits 
of P. Aretino, &,c^ and at the end of the promenade 
is a colunm to Msecenas, erected by his admiring 
"concives." 

Palazzo Brilandi, or Montati, in Via di 8. Vito, 
was the house in which Vasari was bom, with 
worlcs by him. 

Rail to Fossato (on the line between Ancona 
and Rome, page 155), 84} miles, through 8. 
Giustino (page 153), Citth Castello (page IM), 
Umbcrtide, and Gubbio (page 154). 

Rail to Pratovecchio-Stia, sec preceding page. 

The Palas Clasina, or Clusbie Marsh, to the west 
of Arezzo at the head of Val di Chiana, waa 
drained by the Knights of St. Stephen, at Florence, 
and rendered one of the most fertile tracts in Italy. 
Its waters, which formerly ron into the Clanisand 
Tiber, are now diverted north. Into the Arno. To 
reclaim the soil, great dykes were first erected to 
confine the waters, which, during their stagnation 
for a time, left a deposit of good earth, and were 
then sluiced off. This, being repeated, gave solidity, 
to the bog, and gradually raised it above the levd 
of the floods, and tamed it into rich anble soil, 
now divided into large fattorie or fiurms. . 



Route 27.] 



ABEZZO, OOBTOKA, THBASTMEKE LAKE, PASSI0NAN6. 



145 



Leaving Arezzo, the stations towards Rome are 
as follow : — 



Miles. 

Frassineto 624 

Castiglione Fioren- 

tlno 66 

Cortona 72i 

Terontola 76i 

[Branch to 
Castiglione del 

Lasro 82J 

Panicale 86^ 

Chiusi (Route 

26) 94J] 

Passignano 84^ 

Magione 90 

Ellera 97 



MUcs. 
Ponte S. Giovanni...llO 

Bastia 116 

Assisl 118 

Spello 126 

Foligno 128 

Trevi 138J 

Spoleto 144 

Tcnii 162 

Nami 163f 

Orte 179J 

Hence via Bor- 

ghetto, itc. (as on 

page 187) to 
Rome 2324 



Perugia 103 

CastlgUone Florentino (Stat.) A small 

town on a height, with two churches, command- 
ing a fine prospect of the Val di Chiana. The hills 
on the east divide it from the Vale of the Tiber. 

CAMnsczA, at the Bottom of the hill of Cortona, 
where the road to that place (1 mile) meets those to 
Arezzo, Figano, and Montepulciano. 

Omnibus, 1 lira, to the town from Cortona 
Station. 

CORTONA (Stat.) 

Hotdt: Nazionale; Stella. 

A bishop's see (population, 9,000) and the ancient 
Cotytum or Cortona, the capital of Etruiia and one 
of the oldest of the Etruscan cities; the walls of 
which, made of the blocks of uncemented stone, in 
what is called the Cyclopean or Pelasgic style, 
still exist as foundations to the modem ones. 

There are also traces of Roman baths; and out- 
side Porta 8. Agostino is an Etruscan sepulchre, 
called (by a confusion between Cortona and Croton, 
the residence of Pythagoras) the Grotta da Pita- 
gora. In the mcdiseval troubles, Cortona sided 
with the Ghibellines, and had the misfortune to be 
plundered by its Arezzo neighbours, who razed its 
castle. Afterwards it came under the Casali 
family, and was sold to Florence in 1410. Cortona 
stands on the slope of a steep hill, among vineyards 
with black mountains behind, lookhig like a '* pic- 
ture hung on a wall" (Forsyth), and overlooking 
the beautiful Val di Chiana and the Thrasymencan 
Lake. It has all the marks of an old town in its 
houses and narrow winding streets, &c. It gave 
birth to two painters, whose works are to be seen 
here, viz., Pietro Berrettini, or P. da Cortona, who 
designed and painted St. MartUi's at Ronv;; and 
Luca Signorelli. 

The Cathedral, built in the eleventh century, and 
restored in the eighteenth, has Signorelli's Descent 
from the Cross, 1512, and Last Supper; Pietro 
da Cortona's Ajmunciation; and monuments of 
Berridino the painter, of Card. Nereo, styled '' Lu- 
cnmone," a title formerly given to the local rulers, 
and of Tommasi, Grand Master of Malta, 1103; 
t^ 



with a sarcophagus of the Consul Flaminius (?), 
with bas-reliefs of the Dionysos and the Amazons. 
8. Agostino — P. da Cortona* s Virgin and Saints, and 
another, by J. da Empoli. 8. Domenico, built in the 
thirteenth century — Fra Beato's Madonna En- 
throned; PalmaGiovane's Assumption; and another 
piece, with portraits of Lorenzo and Cosmo de* 
Medici. S. Francesco, another church of the thir- 
teenth centnry — P. da Cortona' s Annunciation; and 
Cigoli's Miracle of St. Anthony's Ass. Del Oesu— 
L. Signorelli' s and Fra Beato's Aimimciation, 
&c. S. Margherita — a conspicuous Gk)thic church 
and nunnery, by Niccolb da Pisa and his son. 
Here are some richly ornamented chapels. One, 
containing a gold crown, presented by P. da Cor- 
tona; also paintings by L. Signorelli, Baroccio, 
Empoli, Vaimi, Ac; and the tomb of St. Margaret, 
with its bas-reliefs of the thirteenth century. 8, 
Niccolb has an altar-piece by L. Signorelli. 

The Palazzo PrefoHo^ or Town Hall, is the seat 
of the Accadcmia Etrusca, founded 1/26, with a 
library of books and MSS., and a museum of fine 
bronzes, &c. Among the portraits is one of Lord 
Cowpcr, who was an Italian scholar. 

Terontola (Stat.), where the direct line 
towards Home turns off, by Castlgli01I6 del LagO 
(i e., on the Lake of Thrasymcne, as below) and 
Panicale (two of Perugino's pictures to be seen) 
to ChlUSl, as in Route 26 (page 140). 

Returning to Camuscia, the Road ascends past 
Ossaja, the last place on the old Tuscan frontier, 
to the sunmiit of the Spolunca chain, which looka 
on Val di Chiana and the famous Tbrassmiene 
Lake below, where Hannibal defeated the Ro- 
mans, under Flaminius, for the third time, B.C. 217. 
Pass Monte Gualandro, the Montes Cortonenses of 
Livy, and the Ponte di Sanguinetto, or Bloody 
River, and descend to the flats of 

Case del Piano, which was till lately the first 
place in the Papal provhice of Perugino, now an- 
nexed to the kingdom of It<<!y. The road, hemmed 
in by the Gualandro Hills, enters the defile by th# 
Borghetto Tower, close to the lake, where the 
Carthaginians were in ambush, and winds round 
the corner of the lake to the Torre de Annibale, 
and another defile near 

PaSBlgnano (Stat.), between which and the 
Borghetto, 4 miles, the battle was fought which 
ended su disastrously for the Romans Their Con- 
sul was killed, and only 6,000 Romans escaped. It 
lasted throe hours, during which an earthquake 
occurred, which overthrew many towns in Italy, 
but was unnoticed by the combatants. 

"I roam 
By TbroBsrmene'a Lake, in the deflles 
Fatal to Roman raBhn-*m, mure at home ; 
For there the Cartlia{;iniau'a warlike wiles 
Come hack before me, as his skill befuileti 
The post between the mountains and the shore.— Jy^oH; 
Human bones, it is said, are still found here. 
The Lacus Thratynunus or Trasimenl:^ now Lago 
Trasimeno or di Perugia, is a shallow piece of 
water, about 8 miles acroits; \\a ^vl«^.<»^. ^»<sv$!^ 
being 40 t«fet^ wiftiW&^v* v>!\\\tKv-3 ^^^^ft'fc.'isMt.. ^"' 



i 



146 



BRA1>8HAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 2, 



"ti« of two UlAtidft n«ftr PuMlflrntno it a convent, 
li In )niri\ftrei\ tiv low hllUcorerfid with pines, oaks, 
itndollvnN; ami iiYKnmdH with Kood trout and eels. 
It has tio viMlblo outlet, and to prevent the overflow 
which used to follow the rains, a st^mc tunnel or 
emUnario ■wh'* wmntrMftoA in th« fifteenth cejitnry 
by Hraeriff da Moiitone, ]/»u\ of VcriXKin, riinnin;^; 
oMt from t ho wmtli-enHt Md^n^ar H, Havhio, opiK)«lte 
Polvimo Ixlaiwl, TIiIh juiclfnt pi reft of onfrlncj'rinj? 
work is fo"t hljfli. and 2Mft f«et lonjr, with «!vcn 
fthaftN in It. The dralnajfc, after pawlnff throujrh 
the tunnel, turns several mills, and runs to the 
Caina, and thi-nce to the Tiber. From PasMiKnano 
tho line proceeds to 

Moglono (Btat.), nnd thenee across tho Caina, to 

PERUQIA (Btat.) 

Tho anrlont Perwla or Pcrmiuin; head of a pro- 
vlncoj sent <»f a university, bl»liop, <fec, 

Populaticm, fl'i.OOO. 

Ihtetn: Oran<l Hotel; Po^tu. 

Omnihun to tho town. 

Good beef, nuitl«»n, pork, veal, nnd sweetmeats, 
particularly (m«/ dt niorto, or dead men's bones. 

*Chk/ Ofijfctii of ttottcfi. ■- Fonte Maprj^iore, 
KxrhanK<', Duomo, P. FrancoHco, H. rietro Mura, 
IMcturo (Inllery. 

This old city is tho capital of the modern division 
of Umbrla, ))ut It was ancIcMttly an Ktrnscan 
town, belnff H udles from the Tiber, which the 
Uomans made tho boundary l)etween Etruria and 
ITmhrIa, lylnpr beyond towards tho Apennines. 
rho UlversToplno'and Chlascio Jcdn tho Tiber at 
tho foot of the hill. In tho yenr AC) n.o., durlufr tho 
second trlumvlrato, It was held by Mark Antcmy's 
brother ajrnlnst Octavlnn. afterwards Aujcnstus, 
who plundered and burnt It after a Ion)? slcfro, but 
restored It as /\rit»ii$ Au{tu»tn. 

It stands on tho sununit of a double topped hill, 
about 1,700 feet blurb, and wa^» suntnuuled by old 
walls fl ndlcH In circuit, which h«vc been partly de- 
molUhed, with wide clean streets and old massivo 
houses, lis hundred rburcbcn make a »nw>d show 
with their towors (jt h hence styled TurenneX 
but the town has a decayeil look, Its |H)pulatlon 
bolujr onlv a frnctlon of wbut It wan formerly. 
Tho plrtRvie of 1348 carried olT 100,(M>0 permms of 
the city nnd envli-ons, but It ha» escaped the cholera 
of the present century. In the mldille ajres It tv)ok 
tho Ouelph sble, and then fell under the power of 
Itraeelo da Muntcime, surnnmed Stn»n)rarm. It 
was defended by a str\>n)r citadel, built by Paul 
11!., .itul entirely riMUovtMl In 18flO, fmm the 
ulte of which Is ob)aln<M\ a line pros|H>ct (tf the 
A|>enulnes and Lake Thrasvntene. Part of tho site 
Is occupied by tho now Prefecture. Tho circus 
for tho »'an\e ttf ^mlUuie Is cKmm^ by. In the present 
day It has l»ee»»me notorious for a «»wartily and 
wantvm attack of the Swlsa mereenarles of the 
J*t>pi^ In July. ISAIK who plaeett the unreststtnir 
fnAMMtsnti* «} tfn*ir t*wrry, ))lundered the Henedits 
"-^€hfjnw/. kUhnl tht» hmUorxi of the Hotel do 



family staying in tho honsd. Several persons were 
overwhelmed by an earthquake, 8th May, 1861. 
Perugia is yary specially noted for the number 
and variety of fine prospects which its lofty situa- 
tion affords, and is a pleasant and not expensive 
summer resort. 

I'erupfia is celebrated for the eminent men of 
learnin;? it has produced, and slso for a school of 
paint Injr, the Umbrian School, founded by P. 
Prrufjino (144fi-1524), whose rcil name was P. 
Vannucci, of Castcllo dclla Pievc, or de Castro 
Plebis, where he was bom, but who takes name 
from Perugia, where he learned his art, and painted 
several pictures for the Cambio, Ac; also the Virgin 
and Child, now in our National Gallery. He was 
the teacher of Raphael, the great founder of the 
Iloman school. Other pn]>il8 were Bernardo di 
IJetto or Pinturicchio, a native of Perugia (1454- 
1A10); Glann. di Paolo Mannl; Spagnnola or 
Lo Hpagna; and R. Zoppo, a Florentine. 

"After those three or four cities of Italy, the 
annals of which form pre-eminently important 
chai)ters of tho history of European civilisation, 
there is perhaps no more Interesting city in the 
peninsula than Perugia. The stories of its art, of 
its arms, of its political vicissitudes and struggles, 
have all been worthy of a larger share of the world's 
attentitm than can bo generally accorded to the his- 
tory of a single city. The importance and interest 
which attach to it in all these respects have been 
fully recognised by a great number of native 
writers; and few, if any one of the secondary 
cities of Italy, have received more abundant illus- 
tration of every phase of its past social existence." 
Trollopk's Lenten Journey in Umbria, 

The Cathedral, on one hill top. Is joined to tho 
Prefecture Hill by the Corso Vanucci, parallel 
to which is. Via Bagll(mi, leading to Piazza 
del Sopramuro, whore some old basement walls 
are seen, with the remains of a Porta Marzia, an 
ancient Etruscan gate. Another gate equally 
Irtnclent, but altered by the Romans in 8 b.c, and 
called Arcodi Atigvsfo, or Porta Augnsta, stands in 
Piazza Orimana, on the old Roman Road, north of 
the cathedral. It is built of lava blocks, and the 
arch Is 30 feet high. Like the other, it is inscribed 
"Colonla Vlbla," and "Augusta Perusia." In 
Piazza del Dnomo, facing the Town Hall, ia a 
fountaio, the 

*Fonte Magg%9re, ono of tho finest works of art 
In the city, erected 1*274-80; of which a particular 
acc»»unt was published 1834, by Vertimiglioli, with 
eighty plates. It consists of three basins, ono over 
the o'lher, two of marble, by Nlccolbda Pisa and 
Amolfo dl Lapo, and the third at top of bronse, 
by Messer Rosso. The bas-reliefs on the first basin 
Include designs of the twelve months, heads of 
Adam and Eve, 9amson. David and Goliath, 
Romulus and Remus, wolf and lamb, a Hon (for 
tho Ouelphs), griftln (for Pomgia), two eagles, Ac 
On the second basin are twenty-four statuettes, 
emblematical of St. Peter. Rome, St. Paul, Fertility, 
Abttnv\M\ce« "Sytfttklv*, Jtc. 



Route 27.] 



PERUGIA— CHDROHBS, ETC. 



147 



The Palazzo Comunale, or Towii Hall, of the thir- 
teenth century, now the seat of the Municipality, 
has some carvinjfs near the doora and windows, 
and an Ecce Homo, by Perujrino, in the chai>oI. 
Here are the city Arcliivos. Here also, is the 

•Ptnaco/eca or Gallery of Piiintings, chiefly of the 
Uinbrian school; as G. Manni's Madonna En- 
throned ; Pcru^^ino's Madonna and Saints, and his 
Nativity and Baptism of Christ; Pinturicchio's 
Evanirelists nnd Saints; B. Gozzoli's Madoiuia; 
T. Bartoli's Madonna; and other works by Lo 
Spa<rna. Alfani. tfec. 

The Biblioteca Pubblica in the same building 
contains 30,000 vols . and some valuable MSS. 

• II Cambio, or the old Exchamie, in the Corso, Is of 
the fifteenth century, and is adonied with a scries 
of frescoes hy Perugino (1500), which are reckoned 
among his best. They include God the Father, 
with Sibyls and Prophets; the Nativity and Trans- 
figuration; and figures of Pittacus, Socrates, Leo- 
nidas, N. Pompilius, Fabius Maximus, Trajan, and 
other classical personages. The planets arc on the 
coiling; and on the pilasters arc portraits of Peru- 
gino and others. Some of the wood carvings were 
desigrncd by Raphael. Altar-piece by 6. Manni 
in the chapel. Perugino' s House is in Via Delizioza, 
with his name on the door. 

The old Podestk (capitano) and old University 
are now occupied by the Law Courts. 

Out of 103 churches, not to speak of about fifty 
convents, which flourished here, the following are 
the most rcinarkablc: — 

The *Duomo of St. Lorenzo is of the fifteenth 
century, Gothic and Norman, and contains three 
naves, with handsome-looking, but common, marble 
columns; with Baroccio's Descent from the Cross, 
his best work; L. Signorelli's high altar-piece; St. 
Peter and St. Paul, by Glannicola, a pupil of 
Perugino. The stalls were designed by Raphael ; 
and the stained windows,, in stripes of green and 
bine, were done 1565. Tombs of Innocent III and 
Martin V. 

In the Canon's library are MS. Bibles of the 
seventh and eighth centurv, and the first book 
printed here (1496), B. Capr'a's / Consigli. 

In the Piazza del Duomo are the Fountain and 
Palazzo Pubblico. above mentioned. In Piazza 
Danti to the north, is V. Danti's bronze statue 
of Julius III., erected 1555. Danti was a imtive. 

S. Agnese, near the University, has its cloister 
chapel painted by Perugino; God the Father, and 
the Madonna. 

S. Agostino, near Porta S. Toinmaso. Perugino's 
bas-reliefs in the choir. D. Alfani's ceiling, in 
the Confraternity. 

iS. Angela, neir Porta S. Angclo; a perfectly 
Round Church of the fifth and sixth cenfnries, 11 
feet diameter, built on the site of a Temple of 
Vesta, of which it contahis sixteen pillars out of 
twenty-eight in the whole periphery. It has two 
Qothic portraits. The 6othi>! portal is 14th cent. 

Oratorio di S. Bernardino lias a fine front, by A. 
di Daccio, 1459-61, in a half-Gothic stylo. 

S. Domenico, near the Corso Cavonr, rebuilt 1632 



by C. Mademo ; except the choir, which belongs to 
an old Gothic church, by Giovanni da Pisa, 1804, 
and has a grand stained window belonging to the 
old church. The tomb of Benedict XI. (died hero 
1304 of poison) is a well-carved Avork, by Di Pisa; 
the Adoration of the Magi, by B. Bonfiglio. 

S. Ercolano, near the Porta Marzia, \a of the 
thirteenth century. 

*8. Francesco de' Conventuali, near Porta della 
Conca, an old Gothic church 1230, restored 1757. 
It has the remains of Braccio da Montone. who was 
killed 1424; Perugino's St. Sebastian,. done at .the 
age of seventy-two; Sainrs, by C. Alfani; and T. 
Bartoli's Virgin and Cliild (1403), the only one of 
this master in the city. 

S. Francisco del Monte^ outside Porta S. Angelo, 
has a Nativity, by Perugino; 8. Oirolamo^ at the 
f*nd of Via Papale, an altar-piece, by his pupil, 
Pinturlcchio; and S. Oiuliana (built 1292), outside 
Porta del Castello, has another Perujrino. 

Madonna di Monte Lttce, outside Porta Pese, is a 
half-Gothic church, by G. Danti. 

Santa Maria Nuova, near Porta S. Tommaso, has 
Perugino's Adoration of the Magi (with his own 
portrait), his Transfiguration, and S. del Piombo's 
St. Sebastian and St. Roch. 

8. Maria del Popolo, i»uilt 1547, by G. Alessi, who 
is burled in St. Kiorenzo's Church. 

*8. Pietro fuori di Mura (i.e., outside the wall, 
but now inside Porta Costanza), a basilica church, 
annexed to the great Bencilictinc Convent, founded 
about A.D. 1000 by Pietro Vincioli di Perugia. It 
is otherwise called 8. Pietro de' Ccuinensi. It has 
eighteen old granite and marble pillars, and several 
Perugia masters — as Perugino's Dead Christ, and 
five small paintings in the sacristy; Raphael's 
St. John, and the Infant Jesus, one of his earliest 
works. Also ten pictures by Aliense: V. Salem- 
beni'sVision of St.Gregory ; Lo Spagna's Madonna; 
P. Alfani's Assumption; H. Bonngli's Descent 
from the Cross; Sassoferrato's Judith; Frescoes, 
by Vasari; Mino da Fiesole's bas-reliefs; Cara* 
vagglo's Sta. Francesca; D. Dossi's Head of 
Christ; Titian's Ecce Homo; Bassano's Crown 
of Thorns; Guercmo's Christ Bound. The wood 
carvings and inlaid work of the choir are by two 
Bergamo artists. 

8. Pietro Martire has a fine Madonna and Angels, 
by Perugino. 

5. 8evero College, at the Camaldoli Convent, has 
Raphael's first fresco (1505), with additions by 
Perutfino (1521). Their names are inscribed. 

8. Tommaso has the Unbelief of St. Thomas, a 
fine work by Glannicola, ot the Perugia school. 

The University. or Collegiodelle Belle Arti, founded 
1320, has a place in the Olivetnn Convent near 
Porta S. Angelo, and is well attended. It com- 
prises a library ; cabinets of minerals and plants, 
<fec. Ucrcia the Archxological Musewn (Gabinetto 
Archeologico), containing Etruscan and Roman 
bronzes tmd silver articles, bas-relief 8, vases, medals 
and eighty inscriptions; on»», the loiigoat Rt.'C'asssasv 
inscription knowtv^ <iatvX.«Icft.% \NStV3-'Sv>;^ ^^s^RSk, •" 



us 



BRADSnXW^S ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



Thore arc Mveral private galleries of paintings, 
chiffly of Toruglno*)! »chool, rnd cnltcctlons of 
autiqiiitieii; f^ino of whii'li are on sale. The 
UrtreRt gallery irt I Iiut of PaluxzoPenna. Kaphael's 
Ano Madonna del I4bro at the Palatzo ConestabUe- 
St^ffa^ a small one and one of his earliest works, 
was sold by tlie family to the Emperor of Russia, 
187'i. There is a Tltealv^ near the Corso. 
! The Lunatic Asylum (do' Mentecatti) is outside 

Porta Margherita. 
ij Largo cattle fairs are held here in tlio first three 
\ week4 of August. 

I About one mile outside the city, near Ponte di 

A. Uiovanni, o-i the road to Rome, an KtruKcan 

necropolis wa^ discovered in 1840, called the 

Qrotttt or Sepolcro do* Voiumnli. On the Florence 

Road, near (7omm<Mida, is another KtruRcan relic, 

called Tempio di 8. Manno. Further discoveries 

of Etruscan remains were made in 1887, and the 

Museum (page 147) contains some unique bronzoH 

I then found. About 12 miles distant is Camaldoli 

I Convent of Moniecorona, among forests of pines. 

I Routes to Chiusi on the Siena rail, 36 miles; to 

Qnbbio and Ancona. Prom Perugia, the direct 

road to Rome, is down the Tiber, viA Todi and 

j Narni (50 miles); but the rail viA Assist, Follgno, 

I Spoleto, and Narni is the most interesting, though 

i 20 or 25 miles longer. Todi, along tho direct road 

I is the ancient Tuder^ on the Via Anierlna, where 

j are extensive ruins of a temple and the handsome 

I church of La Consolaxione. 

Leaving Perugia, the rail crosses the Tiber or 
Teverone, at Fonte 8. Gioyannl (Stat.), near 
the amdent necropolis above mentioned, into Um- 
bria. It passes Bastia (Stat.), near a small town 
(population, 8. 123), half-mined by the earthquake 
of 12th February, 1854. Near the station is 

Sakta Maria dbgli Akqkli. so called fVom the 
fine Church of the Madonna, built 1569 by Vignola; 
round the little stone cottage, or Oratory, of St. 
Francis, in which he began his ascei ic way of life, 
1206. On tho front i«» a lar^ m«»dern fresco, by 
Overbeck, in Imitatiim of the early masters of the 
Umbrian school. It contains some old ftrescocs by 
Lo Spagna, and is annexed to the large mctntpo- 
litan convent of the Franciscans, called the I*ortl« 
uncula, as being ti<e first portion obtained by the 
Order fh)m the Bcnedirtlnes in 1511. Pilgrims 
flock hither and to Assist, 2lst July to 1st August, 
and 4th October, to lienufit by the indulgences of 
St. Francis. ThN pile was damaged by the earth- 
ouakos «»f 1882 and 18^ but has Itccn restored. 
From here it is 1| mtlu to A!t»isi, up the bills, a 
little out of tho hlv'h ro.id. which may be joined 
Ajfaiu at SpcUo, farther on. Thii excursion takes 
A or 6 hours. 

A88ISI (Stat.) 

Tho ancient AuitiMm, a bishop's see, and the 
birthplace of St. Francis d* Assist and Metastasio. 

Popttlatitai, S.200. 
^^Suteiflr.- ^///^y;^ j^i»o»e: del Snbaslo. 
'^^ff^ **'*fi<fd eofru, oil the Hide of m picturesque 
or^rJooktug the raiiey oi the Topiiio, « 



branch of the Tiber; and contains several relics of 
the old Roman town or municipium ; among which 
are remains of a forum, baths, aqueducts, vases 
(seen at the public fountains), and a *Temple of 
Minerva, now turned into aC/iurch of the Madonna. 
It stands in the market-place; where the portico is 
seen, in good preservation, of six fluted Corinthian 
columns, 85 feet high, including the base and 
capitals. It was the only building which Goethe, 
whose ta^te was hypcr-clasf^ical, would look at, 
when he visited Assiiti in 1786. Lodging's for a 
lengthened ftay can l»e obtained at very cheap 
rates. 

The Duoino cTS. Rufino, of the twelfth century, 
was restored in the sixtet nth century by G. Alessi. 
It has an ancient crypt and a fine Roman sarco- 
phagus, with a bas-rdicf of Diana and Endymion, 
now used us an altar. 

Santa CMara, built 1353. by F. da Campello, is 
dedicated to a female disciple of St. Francis, 
four.dcr of the St Clares, and has some frescoes 
by Giottino. 

CMe»a Nuova^ or the New Church, occupies the 
site of the house in which St. Francis was bom, 
118». He became the founder of one of the four 
mendicant orders, known as the Franciscans, or 
Grey Friars, or Brothers of tho Oratory, and died 
here 1226; soon after which a Church was built on 
his grave, and dedicated to him, which is the chief 
object ft notice with most visitors, on account of 
Its c.irly frescoes of the thirteenth and fourteenth 
centurii s, its painted windows, &c. 

This church of .*S. Francesco, built for the most 
part bet%veen 122S and I25H,by a German architect, 
Jacob or Jaeopo, consists of tw» churches (or three, 
inclnding the crj'pt). one over the other like steps, 
on the slope of the hill si<Ie. The lower church is 
dark nnd grim-looking, in comparison with the 
cheerful one above it; and there are but few 
characteristic mouldings to mark the style, which 
is rather German than Italhin. The crypt under- 
neath cimtains the body of St. Francis in a tomb 
cut in tlie rock. The mountain behind, about 3 
miles off. caUo'l Monte Subasio, rises 3,990 feet, 
atid here is the ''Carceii" or Grotto to which the 
jaliit went to pray; near a small priory, which has 
a splendid view over the va'.e of Umbria. 

•'This Church." s-»ys Fergusson (Hand-Book of 
Architecture), ''depends on its painting much more 
t.i:in on its architecture, for Its magnificence and 
ciiaracter. In the first place it is small, the upper 
building being only 225 feet by 36 in wMth; and 
tuonsh the lower one has side aisles which extend 
tho width to 1<*0 feet, the upper church is only 
itU feet in height, and the lower about half as high; 
ho that it is far too small for much architectural 
•lisplay. The whole churt*h is covered with fresco 
paintings in great variety and of the n ost beantU 
ful charact<»r which render it one of the most 
celebrated and admired of all Italy. Without Its 
frescoes, and If found nu the north side of the Alpa, 
It won-d hartily altract any attention." 



Route 27.] 



ASSIBI, 8PELLO, FOLIONO, TREVI, 8POLETO. 



149 



The entrance is through the Latter Church, which 
is alwtiys open, and is reached by a nartliex, or 
vestibule, a<idcd in the fifteenth century, close to 
chapels painted by Biiflaltnacco and C. Scruici. 
The side chapels within arc as follows:— 5/. Louis's 
or Stephen's Chapel (on the ri^ht) — Frescoes, by 
Spa^a and A. DonC whose Prophets and Sibyls 
are in the ceiling. St. Anthony's Chapel — Frescoes, 
by C. Sermei, painted In the sixteenth century, 
over those of Giottino, except his Coronation of 
the Yirgiti. Magdalen Chapel — Frescoes, by Buffnl- 
macco. Right Transept — Frescoes, by T. Gaddi and 
his pupil, Giovanni of Milan; and the Annuncia- 
tion, by P. Capann*. Jtight Transept Chapel — 
Frescoes, by Giottino and L. nnd 8. Memnii. 
Between the Choir and Nave — *Frescoes, by Giotto, 
of the Franciscan vows of Poverty, Chastity, and 
Obedience, and St. Francis In Glorv; with the 
Crucifixion, by P. Cavallini. Left Transept— F. 
Capanna's Life of Christ, and the Stigmata of St. 
Francis, whose p »rtrait, by Ginnta da Pisa, is in 
the sacristy adjoining. Chapels on the left side— 
Coronation of the Virffin, by Giottino or Fra 
Martino; T. Gaddi's Crucifixion, and Frescoes 
by S. Memini. 

The Upper Church, seen for a fee to the custode, 
is adorned with frescoes on the walls and ceilinsr, 
by Giotto, Cimabue, and Giunta da Pisa; but tho 
exact share of each is disputed by art-critics. The 
subjects are from the Bible and the life of St. 
Francis. The inlaid work and stalls of tho choir 
are by D. da San Sevcrlno, ft the fifteenth century. 
Behind the altar is the rope of Santa Lcrcia's bell, 
by ringing which with their teeth on a day in 
Augnist, unlimited indulgence is bought by the 
peasantry. In the cloisters and refectory of the 
convent arc portraits of some early Franciscans, 
and a Lord's Supper, by A. Doni and Solimena. 
Lilce other buildings, this one was much shalccn 
by the earthquake of 1854. The few brethren 
hero have been permitted to remain until their 
death. 

From Assisi the rail runs under Monte Subasio, 
at 

SpellO (Stat.)f population, 5,000, close to a 
small town, steep and ill built ; the nncient Ilispel- 
lum, containing a Roman gate, called Porta Veneris, 
and some fine *frescocs by Pintui icchio, in the 
churches of S. Francesco and Santa Marl* Mag- 
gioro. Those of the latter (in the Baglioni Chapel) 
have been engraved by the Arundel Society; and 
it has also two frescoes by Pcrugino. It was 
damaged by the earthquakes. At 

FOLIONO (Stat.), 

The ancient Fulginium, the road joins the Via 
Flaminia, and the road and railway from Ancona 
to Rome. (See Route 29). To Fano, over the Furlo 
Pass, 12 hours. 

Population, 8,753. 

Motels: Aquilad'Oro; La Posta. 

Foligiio, before its Incorporation with the Stotei 
of the Church in 1459, was an independent republic; 
BOW part of the Italian kingdom. It is a hand- 



some bustling town, and overlooks the fine valley 
of the Clitumnus, or Maroggia, famous for its tine 
long horned white caitle, which furnished the 
victim a maxima for the Roman triumphs and 
sacrifices. It joins the Topino, a little below. 

It h.is a small, Gothic cathedral, dedicated to S. 
Feliciano, with red marble lions at the door, and 
several churches; one of which, Santa Anna, built 
by Bramante, contained Raphael's ''Madonna di 
Fwligno " nowin the Vatican. This.IikeN Alunno 
da Foligno's altar-piece, at S. Niccolb, made a 
journey to Paris. Opposite the Purgatory Church 
is an obelisk, surmounted by a crucifix, and a 
lamp kept perpetually lighted.* Herethe Flaminian 
Way made a loop line to Nami, passing Bevagna, 
or Mevania (under Monte Falco), the birthplace of 
Propertius, though he is claimed by Foligno and 
Stello and, with some probability, by Assisi. 

Trevl (Stat.) The Roman Trebia, in an amphi- 
theatre of hills. 
Population, 5,083. 

At the Pinacoteca are three pictures by Lo 
Spagna, and the church of S. Emiliano has flue 
alttrs. 

Before reaching the Le Vene post-house, the 
road passes the source of the Clitumnus, Or 
Clitunno, a little crystal stream at the head of the 
Maroggia, if not identical with it ; on the banks of 
which is the Temple of CUtumnvs, of ''rmall and 
delicate proportions," as Byron describes it; 
originally Roman, but altered or converted into a 
wayside chapel. 

" Hiuc alhi CUttunne. gnsges, et maxhiia, tatirut, 
VicthnA." 

Pliny says the water had the reputation of 
whitening the skin of the cattle which fed on its 
banks. Themuslcal description in "Childe Harold'* 
should not be forgotten here: — 

" PMt not tinblest the Geuios of the place ! 

If thnragh the air a sephyr more eerene 
Win to the brow, 'tiit his ; aiid if ye trace 

Along his Diarglu, a more eloquent greeu. 

If on the heart the freehncM of the eoeue 
Sprinkle its coolnesB, and from the dry dual 

Of weary life a moment lave it clean 
With Nature's baptism, 'tis to him ye must 
Pay orisons for this suspension of disgost." 

The next place is 

8F0LET0 (Stat.), 

The ancient "^S/wWiiw, Umbrix caput,'' In a very 
plcturesijue country on the Blaroggia, traversed by 
an aqueduct and dotted by villas. An archbishop's 
see and formerly the head of a Papal delegation, 
now united with the kingdom of Italy. 

Population, 11,000. Two small hotels. 

It was made the head of a duchy by the Lom- 
bard Kings, 572 ; was burnt by Frederick Bar- 
barossa for siding with the Pope; and, during 
French rule, became the head of the department 
of '^Traslm^nc." Near one of the gates, in its thick 
Gothic wall, is a Roman. AxQ.K^»JCc«i^'^«tv*.«i^WRsSw- 

\a\et Aal^ VY«mi XxNa NNsafc^ x^jR«t«««wL^««^ 



150 



BBADSHAW'S ITAXT. 



[Section 2. 



repulse, when he attempted to advance towards 
Rome after the battle of Thrasymenus. Its other 
ligrns of Roman occupation include a triumphal 
arch of Drnsus and Germanicus; a Temple of 
Jupiter, at St. Andrea's; and remains of a Temple 
of Concord, of which fourteen pillars are seen in the 
Crucifix Church, outside the walls. 

The lofty Aqueduct, which also serves as a road- 
way, is 680 feet lonj?, and in one part nearly 290 
high ; it is on ten Guthic arches, and is supposed 
to be of the seventh or eijfhth century. There are 
traces of Thcodoric's Palace, which was rebuilt by 
Narses, after its ruin by the Goths. It has a foun- 
tain, with figures of Diana &c. 

The Cathedral is a handsome church, originally 
in tne Lombard style, restored In 1644. It has a 
gold mosaic on its front, of 1207; and contains 
Madonnas by Annlbale Carraccf, and Fra Flilppo 
Llppi, who was buried here by Loren;!0 de' Medici, 
with an epitaph by PoUtian. 

8. Pietro, outside Porta Romana, Is another Lom- 
bard church. The citadel commands a view of the 
Apennines, Perugia, &c. It was gallantly defended 
by the Irish Brigade on behalf of the Pope, In 1860. 

At the Palazzo Pubbllco, or Town Hall, is a 
fresco by Spagna. 

Preserved meats, fruits, and truffles are the 
principal productions of 3poleto. 

Its old castle, standing on a basement of Cyclo- 
pean walls, commands a fine prospect. 

Monte Luco, 1 mile east, across the valley, 
which is spanned by the aqueduct, is a charming 
spot ; covered with fine old oaks, one of which Is 
upwards of 50 feet round. Here Is the ancient 
Monastery of S. Glullano, on the site of a Temple 
of Mars, with some hermitages. 

From Spolcto the Road ascends Monte Somma, 
4.040 feet high, with fine views of the Vale of 
ClltumnuR, Monte Luco, &c. ; it then descends the 
Strettura Pass, the hotel of which Was a villa built 
by Leo Xlt. The Roil passes through Monte 
Somma by a tunnel, to 

TERNI (Stat.) 

The Roman Interamna, between the Velino and 
the Nera, celebrated as the birthplace of Tacitus 
the hlstoriaw (at least he is claimed by the town); 
and for the magnificent Falls of Terni, which are 
6 miles distant. 

Population, 15,000. 

Hotels: Europa ed Inghllterra. 

It Is a bishop's sec and has an old Cathedral, wit li 
several Roman remains, viz., part of a Temple of 
the Sun, in the Church of S. Salvatore ; of an Am- 
phitheatre, in the Bishop's Garden; a Temple of 
Hercules, in the College of S. Sivo; and Baths in 
Cassa Spada. Outside the walls is part of a Roman 
Arfefg-e, replaceA by one of Clement VIII., built 
Jj^^ Sf/fjce J840 tt has been supplied with good 
^^*'*iti^ ivater. TheEmperonTadtvamdVXorim 



were natives of Temi, as well as the historian. 
Its wine and poaches are noted. 

The ^Falls of Terni, or of the Velino, are 6 miles 
up the Nero, at the junction of the Velino, which 
comes down from Rlctl at a much higher level. 
Conveyances may be hired at the Hotel (7 to 10 
francs). Thp way lies througb a beautiful country. 
The Falls arc heard at some distance. 

audiit amnia 

Solforeft Nar albtis aqu&, fontesqus Veliiii. — Virgil. 

Like those of Tlvoll, these Falls, cftllcd Caduta, 
or Cascatc della Marmore, arc artificial In their 
origin, having been made, in the first instance, by 
the Consul, M. C. Dentatus, b.c. 240, who, to drahi 
the surplus water which Inundated the valley of 
the Velino, made or widened a cut through the cllif 
down to the lower level of the Nera. Here the 
water "clears the wave- worn precipice," and falls 
Into the gulf below, over 500 feet. In three leaps, 
the middle one being 330 fe6t perpendicular, ond the 
lower one a succession of rapids. The channel is 
about 50 feet wide. Some eslitnates make the total 
fall only 455 feet, which Is nearly equalled by the 
Fall of I'oyers, in Scotland ; a fall which. In Dr. 
Clarke's opinion, ranks next to that of Temi. 
This fall far exceeds the Falls of Schatlhausen, In 
Switzerland. One striking view can be got from 
the Specoltt, a pavilion built by Plus* VI., over- 
hanging the fall, and here also is a fine prospect of 
the valley and hills around; but the bcHt view of 
the waters is obtained from the Nera below. 

Look back! 
Lo where it comes like an eternity. 
At if to sweep dowu all things iu its track, 
Chanuiug the eye with dread ; a matcblees cataract. 

Horribly beautiful !— but on the verge 
From side to side, beneath the glittering mom 
An Iris sits, amidst the infernal surge 
Like Hope. — Byron. 

These rainbows are seen at different parts of the 
falls In the sunshine. Tlie waters here, as in other 
parts of Italy, have a petrify big quality, and 
deposit much tartrate of lime on the wood and 
mosses. Near this is a villa, once inhabited by 
Queen Caroline. 

From the Falls the road may be followed up the 
Velino, to the Pie di Luco Lake ; and on to Rleti, 
in the Roman Tempe, and Aqulla, among the Sabine 
Hills in the Aliruzzi, and thence romid to Naples. 
(See Route 81). 

LeavingTeml, for Rome, the country continues to 
have the same hilly and picturesque character, to 

Nam! (Stat.) A small old cathedral town 
(po]>ulatlon, 8,124), on a height over the valley of 
the Nera, In a beautiful spot, the site of the ancient 
Nequimim^ or Narnia, a Roman colony, which re- 
fused to help the mother city after the battle of 
Canna;. Tiie Duomo Is of the thirteenth century; 
at the Town Hall is a fine Ghlrlandajo (the Coro- 
nation of the Virgin); and in the neighbourhood Is 
the Poute Rotto, a Roman bridge, built by Augustus, 
across a ravine, on the Nera. The remains consist 
of one large arch^ and buttresses of two otliers. 



Boitte 38,] T&BNI, NARHI, BORGHETIO, < 

Ahua, tbe nnclsnt Ameria, another Umbrian 
town, Mid B hlshop't Me. Is «wny Jo the riRht 
towirdi tke Tiber, To OrtS flW,). S mllei. 

Ancona. Rnnlea ti. SH, Titb Iho main Line from 

The roiirl followi the old FUminlnn Way, with 

Otricoli. or Ctrf™(Kin'<iiDiiulBlion,l,I43). where 



hrid^ bull! by AuicnalQii. and reslorcd hr Sljtna 
v., the finuna Cardinal Filife IFelli.} of Mnnlallu. 

Hm tbe Franeh, under Uacduiiold. defeated the 
Neapolitant, In 178B. Pajsiiig 
BorgHsttO (Stat), on Ihe mil, a mprilieral 

ClTlta CarteUaiia (StaL), apictoreHinetown 

(population ■■■""• — - —■—■' .—.... .u- 



i; betwe ' 



iceded th« Etnia< 
ielR:b1»nrhnod vt 



te del Terreno. IS 



a Gothic Cathedra 



n™"'[<yt whk 



med by a Temple of Apollo. 



re It Joins Iho high ro 



1 sight. Froi 



thlsl 



Innctlonof VlaTibctlana: nud 10 oillei (uitbor, 
past Ponle Holl', to 
Rome (Stat) see Rente SJ. 

Anoooa to Paao, Foisombrone, Urblno, 
snd over tbt Apsnntnes to Areno Uid 
FloreiLcg; or, to Toaiombioie, Oagll, 
Slglllo, Nocera, PoUgno, Sec, and Koin*. 
AMCOHA (Btat.), 
e bcarh nenr that tonn. which preaerres Its 
>ni9n name, and Ite Iniportnnco as the beat 

like ont; that Is, 11 is a great bonded ware- 



•1th an Indescribable want of rleanllness, II 
BttbimtEa^liiliimdAiiiirieanCiniiuli. 

by the Klne'^ot Itdy, and la now exlcnde 
Tranl, BrlndUl, etc. 
SlPBtncrs to Venice, Ttleate, Corfu, and J 

Hteamcrs of (ho P, and O. Company, hof 
Venice and Drlndlsl, touch hero. 



152 



BRADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



amphitheatre, between Monte Guasco and Monte 
Astagno or Capo di Monte. 

The promontory is shaped like an elbow, and 
from this circumstance it derives its name of 
Anoon^ bestowed ui)on it by the icstlicss Dorians 
from Syracuse, who made a settlement here. It 
was also, and is still, celebrated for the beauty of 
its women, like many other Greek colonics. 13ut 
it was Trajan who converted it into a usetul port 
and naval station by the erection of a Mole or Pier. 

The Lombards made it the seat of a guvcnior, 
with the title of Marchesus, whence the name of 
La Marca, the Mark, or March of Ancona, given to 
the province (LeMarche in the plural), afterwards 
incorporated with the States of the Church by 
Clement VII. Previously to this, though be- 
queathed to the Pope by the Countess Matilda, it 
had remained a free city, and had held out against 
a brilliant siege by the jealous Venetians, till 
•ncconred by the Guelphs of Fcrrara. It was 
occupied by the French, 1797-1814, and again 
1882-8, and in 1849 it was subjected to ten days* 
bomb.nrdment from the Austrians. In 1861 it was 
occupied by Lamorici^re after his defeat at Caatcl 
Fidardo, and taken by Cialdinl after a bombard- 
ment. 

The Citadtl^ built by the Popes, commands the 
town, but is partly commanded by the heights 
above. Other forts have been erected for its 
defence bv its new master, the King of Italy — one 
near the Capuchin Convent will render it almost 
impregnable. 

Close to the Old Mole is the fine marble *Afch of 
Trajan^ erected, as the Inscription states, by the 
"Senate and people of Rome to Trajan, Emperor, 
and Cassar, son of Nerva, dec, a most provident 
prince, who, at his own cost, erected the Mole, and 
thus made this access to Italy safer to navigators." 
It is of white Parian marble, and of good propor- 
tions, with one gateway, supported by four 
Corhithian columns in each front. The bronze 
statues of Trajan, of his wife Plotina, and his 
sister Marciana, which stood on the top of the 
arch have disappeared. Near this is a Doric Arch, 
by Vanvitelli, in honour of Clement XII., who 
built the four-sided lazzaretto and the second Hole 
with its lighthouse. The Mole Is 2,000 feet long 
and 100 broad. Travellers from the Levant may 
shorten their quarantine at the Cacinc by gohig 
through the spongio or bath. 

The streets of Ancona are steep and narrow, the 
best one being the Corso, built by Pius VI., which 
leads down to the harbour, through the principal 
gate, close to the Dogana. Statues of Clement XII. 
and Cavour, in the new town. It has few remarkable 
buildings. A commercial fair begins on the 20th 
August, soon after that of Sinigaglia; and at all 
times much of the bustle of a thriving seaport 
prerails here. 

The Duomo, or Cathedral of S. Clriaco (Cyrlar), 

/a Cinh Vecchia, occupies the very summit of the 

jfromontorj% on the edge ot /I white cliff, which 

rf'^'sboor oat of tbe§ea, on tbe atte ot a. Templo 

ten pWart of which gre contained in 



the church. It was built in the tenth century, but 
the ornamented Gothic door, with its red marble 
columns facing the Dalmatian coast, is of the 
thirteenth century. It has a handsome octagon 
cupola, and crypts in which the patron saint with 
two or three others, and the Praetor, Gorgonius, 
are buried. The prastor's sarcophagus is orna- 
mented with reliefs. Within the memory of man 
large masses of cliff, close to the church, have 
been swept away by the sea. 

S. Agostino has bas-reliefs and statues, by Moccio, 
in its half-Gothic, half-classical front. 

8. Domenico, rebuilt 1788, has Titian's Virgin and 
Saints, and tombs of Marcolta, the poet, Tar- 
cagnosta, the historian, and Rinaldi, a Florentine, 
exiled by the Medici in 1452. A statue of Clement 
XII. faces the church. 

M. Francesco has a rich Gothic portal. It is 
now used as a barrack. 

Santa Maria della Piatta is a Gothic church ; 
and Santa Pelagia has a Gucrcino. 

The Palazto 'Comunale (Town House), once the 
seat of the Papal Legate; Prefettura and Tibal- 
di's Fountain ; the Ferretti (by Tibaldi), Manci- 
porte and Bcnincasa Palaces; and the old marble 
Loggia del Mercanti, or Exchange, with its Gothic 
ornaments and frescoes, by Tibaldi; all deserve 
notice. Also the arched gateway, &c., of a build- 
ing which was once a commando of the Templars. 
C;ose to the church of S. Domenico, in the Piazza 
del P.eblscito, is the museum, with antiquities, 
and pictures byPodestI, Titian, Crivelli, L. Lotto, 
and others. 

Ancona, in Uoman times, was noted for its pur- 
ple dyes. It has a trade in wax, silk, wool, and 
corn. The steamers for Brindisi, Piroeus, and 
Constantinople leave every Monday; to Venice, 
once a week; toZara, weekly, by the Navigazionc 
Generale Ituliana. (See Jirachhaw't Continental 
Ouide.) 

To Loreto, Castellammare, and Foggla, by rail, 
for Rome and Naples; or to Foligno and Orte 
for Rome. 

Both the road and rail wind inward from Ancona, 
toward Osimo, in order to pass round the great 
chalky down which springs up here, between An- 
cona and Loreto, and reaches its full height at 
Monte Conero, 1,761 feet above the sea. 

The new quarter is on the land side; the pros- 
pect outside is " unique in Its combination of the 
softest features of a pastoral region, with the lofty 
cliffH and sea views of a grander landscape."— 
The Englishwoman in Italy. 

One of the best avenues was cut down to make 
barricades against the Austrians in the siege of 
1819, which lasted twenty-eight days. They took 
the town and hold it for the Pope till 1859, ruling 
with great severity; for which there was some 
excuse, as Ancona had been previously in the 
hands of an association of assassinati. This body 
originated in 1849, when the Papal States wero 
governed by tVvc rcvvL\j\ViiWi»,a,ud several atrocioni 



ir UiigsntB. ths AnUriuii 



They prodHlinsd tbc dictatumlil 



TopotPiiu 

B.QlnKllnn 



FOBSoiimoME, ■ aninlL cnlheJrsl tumi (iKuwln- 
tlon, t.VM), near tho atU ot tlio miclcKt firum 

wltSthe McUuro. I[ li» rcuiaLns of I Ko^iaii 
Theatre, a Calhedral. wlih Kmo ]Hilnllii|;>i anil lii- 
■Oriptloui, and a goud briilBS. TUd >llk made hen 
laiomaolthebeittn Italy. Tho mnmlnUii Way 



ie.i'MJi iB 

BaBaello Sauilr 

bom (1189) has I 



naBiHO, 

reinarkublt 



IW11 on a hill (impula- 
tho hinh|il«ce ot 
ly aalled Rapha^, 



R»|ih:ii!l 






ft gen Inn. Otlier 



batnl t> 



l)raiu(inU,lhaarchltecl; Bnroiwhi, the painter ; U. 
Baldt. Paclulli. and Paliretti. It wii> noted lurlho 

deii^ni by Rapliael or by Che artlatB of liLe day. 

The PalaiBt l>BCale. now the Bovemor'a houie. 1> 
uhandionie buUdln|!(re9tored), etectedlntlie laili 
conlury, In tha relBn of the dnt Duke Fedortgu 

(the iHinter'i father) andanother arClel.' It hat a 
atatue of Unlca Federlco, by O. Uamjiaiina. vllh 
Buiua liiacrimluin [ but the keU iur( of Its oollcc- 

At Pa/am Albml, ChHuent XI. and lome cardl- 






of 01. PranclB d'AaBlsl. by Uanxrclu 
- ' > inlJsP; anil lombi of lh( 






tnelory o( rouJoLica, wlih a 

neakii of the AlKluilmn In 
(eet Idgh. the hIghetC behig 
wnllu Tlie roads begin to 
np the Melauni. Co* 

S. Aboklo ih ViDO, a im 
blnbplaco ul tlie btoIlierB 
Zuccaro or Zucehero, both 

Fctlerlm 
mounted d| 



,~f,S 



rf^" 



S. Gttutiiio (Stat.), near the Tllia 



1,6,MS.B 



:regrtiilpiitrou>Df lean 
d'Obaido' '^-•--•— 



154 



BRADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Beetion ^. 



Florido, and several other Churches, adorned with 
pahitbigs, (kc; the Palazzo Comunalo, in the 
Gothic style ; and four or five palaces of the Vitelli 
family, formerly lords of the city. These and most 
of the large buildings here were cracked by the 
earthquake of 1789, which spoilt the uld and fan- 
tastic frescoes, chiefly by Ghcrardi or II Doceno, 
by which they were adonicd; and caused the re- 
building of the churches. One of the Vitelli 
Palaces is inhabited by the Mnrchese I4ufalini; 
another, now a merchant's warehouse, has a fine 
hall, 120 feet long, painted with arabesques; a third, 
built 1540, contains many family portraits, one 
being a beautiful girl, dying of a stab in the neck. 
It stands in a garden, with a loggia painted by 
Gherardi, fresh as if done yesterday, and "covered 
with the most extraordinary and fantastically 
grouped assemblage of birds, beasts, fishes, fruits, 
and flowers, that it is possible to imagine."- 
Teollope's Lenten Journey. 

The Pinacoteca now contains the best works 
of art and paintings that were formerly in the 
churches. • 

About 3 miles east is Passerino farm, the site of 
Pliny's Villa, described in his sixth book. 

About 12 miles beluw this, after crossing the 
ferry, near to the site of an intended bridge, is 

Fratta, or Fratticciola, a small picturesque 
town (population, 9,322), where the road to Gubbio, 
16 miles, and Ancona turns off, over the mountains; 
past the old Castle of Civitella Ranieri. Fratta 
has a pottery manufacture, and stands 2,920 feet 
above the sea. In Santa Croce Chunth is a fine 
Descent from the Cross, by L. Signorclli. The 
hills here are well wooded, and the country richly 
fertile. On one stands the Convent of Monte 
Corona. ♦ 

Perugia (Stat) is 20 miles further. Sec 
Route 27.] 

From 8. Giustino, ascending the Tiber, the next 
place after crossing the old Tuscan boundary at 
Cospaja, is 

San Sepolcro, or Borgo 8. Scpolcro, a bishop's 
see (population, 7,814) which belonged to the 
Papacy, but was ceded to Tuscany 1440. It stands, 
as usual, on a hill, and takes its name from an 
oratory, built by two pilgrims, to hold a piece of 
stone brought from the Holy Sepulchre. It is the 
birthplace of the painters, Santo di Tito, Pioro 
della Prancesca, and Raffaellino dal Colle; whose 
works are to be seen in the Cathedral (a building 
of the eleventh century), the Misericordia and 
other churches. 

The Tiber rises about 40 miles north of Borgo S. 
Sepolcro mider Monte Falterone, in the Apennines, 
close to the source of the Amo. It flows through a 
green basin, once a lake, now rich in coi-n, wine, 
oak and other trees. The noxtplace towards Arezzo, 
is 

MoKTEBCHi, the old Mons Hercules, on the ridge 
between the Vales of Tiber and Chianti; a little 
rra)]ed town, which belonged to Bishop Tarlate, of 
Anejfoo. Some 20 w J lea farther, by a z^zAg road, is 
'(0tat,) See Route 27, 



For Rome the route turns off south from FoMom- 
brone, as above, the towns from which are as 
follow: — 



Acqnalagna . 

Cagli 

Cantiaiio .... 

S«hieggia .... 
Sigillo , 



Post. 
... 1 
... f 
... I 
... 1 
... 1 



Post. 

Gualdo 1 

Nocera 1 

Ponte Centesimo 1 

Foligno 1 



This road is identical with the Via Flamfaiia. It 
follows the Caudigliano up the Pietralata Hill, or 
Monte dAsdrubale, which commemorates the defeat 
Df Hannibars brother, Hasdrubal, here, by the 
Romans, B.C. 207, on a plain called Piano di S. Sil- 
vestro. A tower on Monte d'Elce, near the river, 

marks his grave. 

occidit, oocldit 

Bpea omnia, et fortuna luwiri 
Nomluis.— Horace. 

The Roman road here has been tunnelled through 
the solid rock, and through a cutting half a mile 
long, called the Passo del Furlo, a work which an 
inscription ascribes to Vespasian. It then crosses 
a Roman bridge, Pont^ Maulio, to 

Cagli, the ancient Callis, under Monte Nero, 6,600 
feet high. A small town (population, 9,659), with 
several churches. S. Domenico contains a good 
fresco of the Madonna, by G. Santi, father of Ra- 
phael, whose portrait is given in one of the angels. 
It is published by the Arundel Society. 

The road passes another Roman bridge, Ponte 
Grosso. on the way to 

Cantiano, a small fortified town (population, 
3.237), with a Holy Family, by Perugino, in one of 
its churches. The road ascends to a point 2,810 feet 
high. 

ScniEGGiA, another small town (population, 
1.320), near the remains of the Temple of Jupiter 
Apcnninus at Clavernium, now Chiascema, on 
Monte Petrara. 

[Here is a steep road through the nhoulder of 
Monte Calvo to 

GubblO (Stat.), the ancient Iguvium, on the west 
of the Apennines, at the source of the Chiascio, a 
branch ot the Tiber. Population, 6,640. It was 
a republic till 1383, when it came under the Dukes 
of Urbino, who had a splendid palace here. It was 
noted for its dyes, woollens, and M^olica ware, 
designed by Maestro Gorgio, a native. The best 
specimens of this ware in the Soulages collection 
were obtained from Gubbio. The town hangs on 
a kind of step at the base of Monte Calvo, in the 
basin of a dried Lake, 12 miles by 2; and the 
houses riric one over the other in steep zigzag 
streets. It is supplied with water by an aqueduct, 
2 miles long, from an artificial reservoir in the 
mountains, 330 feet long and 80 deep, made by 
damming up the head of a valley. 

There are some frescoes by Raffaellino dal Colle 
and other Umbrian masters in the Cathedral, and 
the Dominican and Santa Maria Nuova Churches. 
In that of Misericordia is a fine fresco by O. N^li. 
In the present Town Hall, which faces the PaUsso 
del ContoY^ift «c Uuteum^ with collection of pftint- 



Routes 29 and 30.] oubbio, fabbiano, kocbba, osimo, lobeto. 



155 



Ings, one by Daniiani, including several portraits 
of the Gabrielli family. 

The old *PaIazzo dei Console, of the fourteenth 
century, 3332-35. is an interestin;? monument of 
the republic, with a campanile, standing on a pro- 
tecting platform, resting on great arches and 
reached by stairs from the lower city. In a wing 
of it, joined to the main building by a loggia, is the 
public Library, given by Bishop Sperelli. The 
Ducal Palace, called the Corte, close to the cathe- 
dral, is a neglected ruin. It contains Duke Fede- 
rigo's beautiful inlaid cabinet, and is adoniod with 
fine arabesques and carvings, among which the 
Order of the Garter is seen. .Gubbio is a station 
on the Arezzo-Fossato line. 

A little below the modem town are twenty-one 
arches of the lower and upper row of a Roman 
Amphitheatre; and another relic now in the 
Museum, consists of the seven Tabulse Eugubinvs or 
Eugnbine Tables, found hei'e 1444. They arc of 
bronze, and the inscriptions, which ai^e in Lathi 
and Etruscan, relate to the religious ceremonies of 
the Umbri.] 

Going down to Fratta, 15 miles, our road passes 
the gorge of the Assino, by Danno Castle, the de- 
serted Convent of Campo Rcggiano, and the old 
Castle of Civita Ranieri, on a hill between the 
Nicone and Campina. 

Fbatta is on the Tiber, and the road to Perugia 
and Citta di Castello. (See above.) 

From Schieggia the road passes through an easy 
break in the Apennines to 

SiotLLO, the ancient Ilebillum, and FossatO, on 
the rail from Ancona to Rome. (See Route 29.) 

Ancona to Rome, by rail, vi& Jesi,Fo88ato, 
Nooera, Foligno, Spoleto, Temi Falls, 
Orta, and down the Tiber. 

The stations are — 



Miles. 
Falconara 5 



I 



•Miles. 

Fabriano 44i 

Fossato 54^ 

GualdoTadino .'8 

Nocera 68f 

Foligno &0i 



Chiaravalle 10 

lesi 19* 

Castel Planio 26^ 

8erra S. Quirico ... 80} 
Albacina dSf 

By rail from AnCOna (see Route 22). 

The line tunis up the Esino, ancient JSsis, past 

Falconara and Giiiarayalle, on the Esino, to 

lesi, liesi, or yEsium, as the Romans called it, 
the boundary of Picenum and Umbria, and the 
birthplace of that " wonder of the world " the 
Emperor Frederick II. (grandson of Barbarossa), 
Hbout 1194. He died in 1250. It is a pretty little 
place, with some churches, a cathedral founded 
In the fourth century, a theatre, and casino; 
and a thriving trade in silk. Population, 18,786. 
"The line ascends the river to 

Serra S. Quinco (Stat.), under Monte Rosso. 
Fopnlation, 8,950. Then Albadna (Stat.) and 



Fabriano (Stat). A bustihig town (poptn 

lation, 17,798) and bishop's see, having large manu- 
factures of paper and parchment and a trade in 
wool. A line from Fabriano to Porto Civitanova 
(page 1''7) passes Matelica, Macerta (page 1^6), 
1 olontino (patfe 157), and S. Severino delle Marche. 

The line enters a tunnel through a slope of the 
Apennines, leaving to the left 

SiGiLLO, the Roman HebUlum, in Umbria, on the 
Via Fiamhiia, which the railway afterwards 
follows towards Rome. Population, 1,639. It has 
a castle built by the Lombards. There is a large 
stalactitic grotto near this place. 

Fossato (Stat.), population, 1,936. Rail to 
Ares 20, see page 144. 

Gualdo Tadino (Stat.), at the foot of the 
mountains. A Lombard town of 7,012 population, 
near the remains of the Roman Tadinum or Tadinao, 
where Narses defeated the Goths under Totila, 
who was killed, 557. 

Nocera (Stat.) The ancient Meeria,la Um- 
bria, under the Apennines, taken by the Romans, 307 
B.C., afterwards created a municipium and military 
colony and annexed to the States of the Church in 
1198. Population, 5,088. It is a bishop's see, on a 
steep hill, near the head of the River Topino. At 
the Adoration Church is a painting by N. Alunno, 
1483. Wine, oil, and fruit are plentiful ; and there 
is a good mineral spring in the neighbourhood. 

Foligno (Stat), as in Route 27, which from 
hence follows the line to Rome. 

I^OXJTE 36- 

Ancona, to Loreto, Fermo, and Pescara, on 

the rail to Foggia, Trani, and Brindisi. 

Opened 1863; 92^ miles to Pescara; in 4 to 6 
hours. 

The stations are — 

Miles. 

Osimo 10 

Loreto 15 

•Poito Recanati 17) 

Potenza Picena ... 23 
Porto Civitanova... 26 

8. Elpidio 31 

Porto 8. Giorgio ... 36f 



Miles. 
Cupra Marittima... 48 

Grottamraare £0 

8. Ben. de Tronto... 63 

Giulia 68 

Mutignano 79} 

Montesilvano 87 

Pescara 92| 



Pedasso 43 

Ancona (Stat.), as in Route 28. 

The line then turns inward roxmd the base of 
Monte Conero to 

Osimo (Stat.), on a hill 800 feet high, the 
ancient Anximum, of which remains are collected . 
in the museum in the Palazzo Pubblico. Popula- 
tion, 6,000. The ancient Cathedral (formerly sur- 
rounded by the walls of a castle, which was levelled 
in 1500) has a deep carved porch, ornamented witl^ 
snake mouldings and a series of oval portraits of 
bishojMs on its walls. Cross the Musone to 

LORETO (Stat.), 

A town (population, 8,100) and bishop's see^ in thft 
province of MaceratA^ cA&.^t«to^ \«t NN;^ ^^attAMsi^^ 
ol ttve ♦SawUl Cows <w lasiS^ IBLww^ ^V NJosk^Ns^ss 



Cua Kii Inhabltrid by Hary at KoinrMh^ wni 

wa. Iraiuplniited iura» the AdHatie to a hUl, UMl 
Ihe MS, beloiigliig lo a nnnin Lium, or Lauretta 
who sftvB name to Its prDsait dIB. It l» a iJilck- 
bDlltnnm. » tent l>y It leet, aiid 13 foot hlih; 

tng an liiu^o of Ihe Virion, in cedar iToiHl. Roanii 
thii lancluHry a Biilcndldl^-adDrned Church hai 
boon erected; which It rJtlted by thousand! of ]d1- 

tlils rollc In a poem ht^nnfng— " Ecdu frii le lem- 
peite ed I Aeii Tentl." A iiwre nbcr and vuraduni 
■cconnt li contained In Blabon MarlorOII'a two 
ColloiDf Iha nairo Morlco ileUa Saiila Con.- Ihc 

book pnbllihed here, tlus " HlUuricnl account ol 
the Prodlglona Trauilallon or Ihc Holy Houae of 
VaEnreth," lo which the doubter Ib rcforrcd for 






The fine ifadiinaa Chorch, which enclose! the 

date, aiid the tall canipanlle.' by Vaiivltolll, The 
front was added by Slxlua V. (1UI7). whoae bronie 



The liTODie 


Virgin 1. by r 






Ihree bionie 


door., with Ih 




1, are by 


£,1ft2SrtiJ.S 


Z^^Z' 


Sr 


Rrtma. i»or« eiuiou> than e 


egaiit; lin 












One marble e 


Kln^ lo Uie Holy Home. 


wllh haa- 




Hialorrof M 


r>-, by A. 9 




B. Bandlnelll 


Barraello da 




O. Lom- 


batdo, G. doll 


Porta, Tribolo, Ac. 




The mbieci 


of Ihcsc baa- 






H^^ "IobJ 


arrtasc Ann 


nelallon, ^ 


ialtalton. 




hlehoio. Blnh 


of ChrUl, 


doratlon 


of thTjlMl, 1 




anil Ilie jo 






; ani^Bwhl 




propbeti 


andalbjlaaic 








7^«VA«EUI 


CW, i,™/- 


lie SanlH 


Caaa. by 



The IrcKoes In the c]ia]n1> and lacM^y are by 
Zucehero, r. Tlbaldl. D. Veniitano. *c. with a 
Midunna. by A del Siirlo. In tho bnptlMery ia 
a fine bronze relief, by T. Vcrcelli. and olhera. 

The niity black iniastc of the Virgin carved, it ia 
aalil. by Bl. Luke, and droaaed In a rich robe, with 

oHcrln^'ln the' slinta' ScoiIeIIi. a diah wlilcb 
■he Virdn la bollovcd lo have ealcn from, but 

in whlcli the ilfta ol the fnlthrul are prcwrred. 
Hero la kept the coliccliun. doalv and lultered. of 
Uajolici pottery, Ihe tiirt of Friiiceuo-Haria, 
I)Dkc of Urtiino, to the Virgin. Tlila rich Ireaaury. 

by ftMVL"to'e'nBi3e"hbn to"fmy it aum due, by 
treaty, to the French: who. In I'm. made a (ur- 
Ihcr sweep of lt> eunlents ; and on thia occaaton 
the ucrcd Inuim made another Juumcy aa faroa 
Paiia. Splendid Tiew from >he CHmpanlhs. 

Facing the ehnrch ia Ihe Palace of the King, and 
thnlnflhcBlahop; ahandaomepllebyBnu - 

{Woman 

OftBMl ndardO.' on a hill, over the Muaou 
noted lor the defeat of Ibc Papal troops, nud 
Lnnwrldbrc. by Claldlnl. IStb Senteniber. ISC 

orgjinlKd by Cardinal de Uerode. InclDdlng i 
Irish btiRade, commanded by Major O'Relllfj u 
was Hupported by the garrlMHi from Ancon 
Cinldiiil Look 1^ prisoners, alu guna, anna, in 
with General Pluiodan. Ljimorlcl^re capltnlati 
at Aju»nia, on the XSth September, and tho Sard 

tne Neapolitan frontier, lo join Qarlbatdl. 

(Stat), at Ihe moolh of tl 
riero la an anchorage for ■ k 



:srracGi. OnereinD. Ac.; 



*«w*«* /# jtuoted ta frVKO, by fDmcraaclu. 



>I*CRB>1* (Stal.X capital of a provliico, and ■ 
blahup's tee. In tbo March of Ancona. <.n a hill, 
between Ihe Panteia and Ciilentl. wilh a view of 
the tea aod tlw AtemdBs*, and of the hill lawm 



Itoute 30.] 



LORETO, TOLEXTIXO, POTEXZA PICENA, S. BLPIDIO. 



157 



around. It was fonndcd by the Gothn in the fifth 
or sixth centuries. It is a well-built, bustling 
place, having' a popnlati.>n of I0.0C3. One of its 
(fates, Porta Pla, is a triumphal arch, erected by 
Cardinal Albomoz, with his bust over it. The 
Cathedral of S. Giuliano has a Madonna, and 
other paintings, by Umbrian masters. At S. Gio- 
ranni is an Assumption, by Lanfranco. Among 
the others worth notice are the Town Palace ; the 
University, with a library of 20,000 volumes; a 
College for priests ; Court of Api)oal, for the pro- 
vince; the Palazzo Compognone, which has collec- 
tions of antiquities and inscriptions from Ririna; 
and several other Palaces built of white brick, 
and mostly deserted by their owners. Outside the 
walls is the Dellc Verginc Church, by Bramante; 
besides a lai-gc brick-built amphitheatre, used for 
the game of pallouc, ikc. 

Monsignor Savelli, a former Legate here, was, 
says Count Arrlvabene, *' nicknamed the 'Corsican 
mad dog,* for his eagcnicss in pcrsecuthig citizens 
suspected of liberal opinions. A wretched criminal, 
condemned to death, refused in his last moments 
to receive the ministers of the Catholic religion. 
The Legate, hoping to bring the convict to a more 
religious frame of mind, went to sec him in the 
Confortatorio, and urged him to repent. He pro- 
mised he would confess and receive the conununion 
if fifty scudi were given to his fantily, which was 
done. Communion was then administered, and the 
next day he was executed. He was hardly buriod 
when Savelli sent for the wife and demanded back 
the money; which he gave her, he said, because 
he only wanted her husband to die as a penitent 
and good Catholic." Gregory XVL dismis.sed the 
Legate for this mean piece of treachery, and sent 
the wife two hundred scudi; but the same man 
was made a Cardinal, and President of the Con- 
snlth, by Pius IX. 

A road turns south-cast to Fenno (26 miles); 
winding among hills crowned by towns and castles. 
It passes S. Claudio; Montolino, the birth-place of 
I^aiui, the historian, and the site of Patutulte, an 
ancient town and bishop's sec, destroyed in the 
fifth century; S. Giusto Monte Granaco; and the 
River Lctc Morta, or " Dead I.ethe." 

Ascend the Chienti to 

TOLENTINO (Stat.) 

A small cathedral town, once fortified, cele- 
brated for the Treaty of Tolenthio, signed between 
Bonaparte and Pius VI., in February, 1797; and 
also for the decisive Battle of 3rd May. 1815, gained 
by the Austrians under General 'Bianchi, over 
Marat, King of Naples, by which he lost his king- 
dom. Its site is marked by the Castello della 
Rancia, on the Macerata Road. The Duomo is 
dedicated to S. Niccolb. It is the ancient To'en- 
tiMum^ and was under the Accoromboni family, 
before it was annexed to the Papal States. The 

nil mns to 8. Beyerlno (population, 3,ooo), 
en tlie Potenza; and the old town of MatoUoa 
(pepaUtion, 4,000). 



Up the Chienti, past the villa in which the Pope 
signed the treaty, towards the Apennines, to 

Vai.cimara, in a valley, above which are Ponte 
delta Trave and the narrow pass and village of 

Skrravalle, on the boundary of Umbria, with 
remains of an old Gothic castle which guarded the 
defile. Afonte Pennino, and Monte SUnlla, the 
ancient Mons Tetrictu, 7,000 feet high, are close at 
hand. 

Camerino is reached by a zigzag turning off to 
the right from the Chienti, after leaving Yalcimara 
as al)ove. This is an old Duchy and cathedral 
town (population, 11,854), on a solitar>' hill, 2,080 
feet high, shut in by the Apennines, on the site of 
Canierinum in Umbria, which furnished Scipio 
with 600 soldiers for his African expedition. It 
has several churches and silk factories, and is the 
birthplace of Carlo Maratti, the painter. The 
earthquake of 1799 entirely destroyed the former 
cathedral, and ruined an ancient renovated church 
of the thirteenth century, down the hill. But the 
large palace of the Varani family escaped. They 
were lords of the town till it came under the 
Papacy, and were nearly extirpated by its adherents 
in 1431. Their old feudal castle is on the Chienti, 
at the junction of the Scortachiari. While the 
men of the family were generally worthless, the 
women were remarkable for beauty and talent. 
The women of Camerino are distinguished for good 
looks. Its history has been written by C. Lilli. 

Pioracco, to the north of this, on the Potenza, Is 
the site of Prolaqueum, and from it the Roman road 
went through the Apeimines to Nticerea or Nocera. 
The present road turns south-west to Serravalle. 

From the Serravalle pass the road crosses the 
A]x>nnines by 

Col Fiori'to, 2.700 feet high, by a narrow way 
cut on the face of the cliffs (which are covered with 
snow several months in the year), so narrow that 
carriages can hardly pass each other. Here is a 
little lake hi the midst of verdure and wild flowers. 
The descent is rugged and winding along the preci- 
pices to Ca»e Xuove and ScopoH ; after which the 
country improves to Belfiore and the beautiful 
valley in which Foligno is placed. (See route 27.)] 

Following the rail along the coast, the next place 
to Porto Recanati is 

Potenza Picena (Stat.) A long strip be- 
tween the coast and the hills, was the ancient 
Picenum^ full of old cities and sites; whose history 
by Brandimarte in his "Plinio Seniore, illustrated 
i\\ a descriiition of Piccnum,'' is the best guide to 
their investigation. 

Porto Civitanova (Stat.), at the mouth of 

the Chienti. From lu re a line to Patumla was 
opened January, 1855, and has been continued to 
Matelica, completing the connection with Alba- 
cina (see page 155). 

S. ElpidlO (Stat.), between the small port 
and town of S. Elpidio. The town, on a hill, is the 
site of Cluana or Cluentum. These ports are no 
ports at all, but only anchorages for a few fishing 
boats, and the coast U *^Bas5(^^.^sMLwoi^.'^ ^»S«c«s»8>i:t % 
and \H\\i\l«ie«\\ii\&. 



158 



BRADSUAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



Porto 8. Giorgio (Stat.), the nearest to 

Fermo, the site of the ancient Firmum Picenuw, 
destroyed 1>y the GothH; an archhishui^s sec and 
tlie head of a province in the Icingdoni of Italy, on 
a steep hill, 6,100 feet hi{?h, near a small stream, 
the mouth of which makes a little port, 4 miles 
below the town. Population, 18,99G. 

It is reached by a windin;? road, and consists of 
many narrow and abrupt streets, shut in by old 
picturesque walls. On the very top of the hill, in 
Piazza Girone, stands the Cathedral, command- 
ing a wide prospect of the towns and villages 
around, and half way over the Adriatic. It was 
the site of a castle, which was razed in 1447, to 
prevent it being turned against them by the 
powerful families of the town. It was so strong 
that an old punning rhyme declares— 



That is- 



"Qoando Fermo vttol fermare, 
Tutta I'Marca fa treuiaie." 

"At long AM Fermo Btand* up jirm. 
She makes the Marches treuible." 



'^There is a rather unnsunl. but not unique fea- 
ture in the construction of the Cathedral, consisting 
of a sort of porch or pronaos at the west end, across 
the entire widtli of the nave and aisles, so placed 
that the west front wall, Instead of giving access 
to the church, is but the side wall of this adjunct 
to the building, which is entered through it by a 
door in that part of the north s'de which it the 
north end of the porch. — (T. A. Trollopz'h Lenten 
Journey.) Here arc tombs of a Viscontl, by Tura 
(Bonaventura) da Imola, and a member of the 
EnfTredicci family. Another member, Ollvcretto, 
who figured here, and is buried in S. Francesco 
Church, is cited by Bf achinvelli as a model tyrant, 
in a chapter of his "II Principe," relating to those 
who have raised themselves to power by their 
atrocities. 

Fermo is one of the richest bishoprics in Italy, 
worth about £11,600, and was held by Cardinal dc 
Angelis, who was designated by Pius IX. as his 
successor. Lattanzio, surnamed Fenniano, was 
bom here. 

The next place along the line is 

Pedaso (Stat.), at the mouth of the Aso, 
which comes down from M<mtc Sibilla, 7,200 feet 
high, 80 miles inland. 

Ciipra Marittima (Stat.), at the mouth of 

the Tesino, near the site of Cupra Afaritima, 
where there was a temple of the Cyprian Venus. 

Orottamare (Stat.) 

A little distance inland, on a hill, is Ripatr ansonr, 
or Cupra Montane, a small cathedral town (popula- 
tion, 6 000). It is near the Josina, on the other 
side of which are the old castles of Cassignano 
and Aflida. 

S. Benedetto del TrontO (Stat.), near Porto 

d'AscoIi, at the Tronto (ancient TYuentum), which 

was formerly the boundary of the Pontifical and 

Neapolitan States. Here a road, the ancient Via 

'Sx^kKrUg, tarns ap the river to Ascol i and Spoleto. It 

^' oow pMrtly Buperaeded by a line to AscoU,^ 



miles long, which passes through Offida Castel di 
Lnma. 

[Ascoll Piceno, 20 miles from the sea, is the 
ancient Ascuium Picenum^ the chief town of the 
PIccntea, and a large, well-built cathedral town, 
with a population of 11,200, on a hill, in a fertile 
plain, at the junction ojf the Castellano with the 
Tronto, both of which are crossed by old Roman 
Bridges. Another piece of antiquity is the Porta 
Romana, a triamphal arch over the Via Salaria, 
which runs through the town. There are also re- 
mains of a theatre, &c. Ascoll Is still sometimes 
called Eschio, snpitosed to be derived from KKvJtUy 
an oak. It took a prominent part In the Social 
War against Rome, but was captured and plun- 
dered by Pompeius Stralx), Pompey's father. 

It Is surrounded by walls of travertine, and con- 
tains nine Churches full of paintings, by Trasl, 
Ghczzi, and other native artists, with sculptures 
by Glozafatta. 

The Duomo, an ancient structure on the site of 
one founded by Constantine, has paintings by C. 
Crevelli, a Venetian, whose works are to be found 
In the churches of Santa Margherita, Ac. S. 
Orcgorio Magno contains the Corinthian pillars of 
a Roman temple, wiilch stood on this spot. The 
Palazzo Anzianafe, near the Duomo. includes a 
museum, library, and theatre. In Piazza del 
Po|>olo Is the Town Hall. The citadel was built 
by Sangallo. 

In the mcdljeval period, Ascoll was governed by 
the Fulzetta and Mlglianitti families; and it was the 
birthplace of Nicholas V.; of B. Bassus, the orator 
and friend of Cicero; and also of Ventldius 
Bassus, who was a child when P. Strabo took the 
towii, and who afterwards defeated the Parthians, 
under M. Antony. Another native was P. Stablll, 
called the Cecco d'Ascoll (blind man of Ascoll), a 
scholar of Dante's time. 

The road ascends the Tronto, past Acqua Santa, 
or AdAquas^ still known for its sulphur springs, to 
Arqdato (20 miles from Ascoll). near another 
Roman station. Ad CenteHmum, on the Via Salaria. 
From this there is a way, by the Passof Castelluccio, 
near Monte Slbllla, over the Apennines, to Nohcia 
(10 miles), an old episcopal town at the head of 
the Nera, and the birthplace of St. Benedict. From 
this It Is 16 miles to Spoleto, In Route 27. 

From Arquato, see above, the Via Salaria con- 
tinues to ascend the Tronto, past Ad MartU; then 
over the Apennines and Monte Teja to Clvlta Reale, 
at the head of the Vellno, and down that river to 
Clvlta Ducale, to R let I, and thence to Rome; or 
pant Ad MartU to Amatrice and Montereale, at the 
head of the Pesaro, and down thst river to Aqthla 
(in Route 81). the capital of the Farther AbruzzI, 
or AbruzzI Ultra.] 

The coast railway, after crossing the Rivera 
Tronto and Vlbrata, in the province of Abruszl 
Ultra, comes to the Sallnello, up which Is Civitblla 
DEL Tronto, a fortified town, with a populatioB of 
6,700; and then reaches 



BAnto SI.] FBHHO, ABOOLI, 

OtnliUlOTa tBUt.}, or Oiulia, nHr il 

CWfmin jnmn, on lbs Via VilerlB. The ne 
rlTer, una of the iniiny >hi)rt »tream» tjnin II 
DMghboDilnr mDiinliinB,IithaTon)iiio,ar ■iiuici 
Batfma. Brnnc)i(IOmll»)DpUilirlTaru 

Taruno, Ihs Roman /nMramna Pncfu^ana. 
Qilhoilral town {popuLoilon, 8,fl«). and lliernpli 
ot Abnizsit Ultra, botn-ocn thaTonllnoandOklul 



AtTl-MQUBnano (Btat.>, ropniatioii 



hjgha>ti 

EmgiKhi 



lo.thahl^hastpolntoflha rangv cnl 1 
la/io (Oraat Rock ot Itoly), nnd i 



Monte SUV&na (St&t.) la followed by 

OaiteibunitiBre Adilatloo (Btat.>-See )in;r[ 

383. jQnotionforAqUllaandTenil,«MKoutDl 
Pescua (Stat.), nbout half-Kny lo F.i^g'n 

3S.OTTTB SI- 
Toml, to Aqulla, Bolmona, Popoll, Chletl, 
Peacara, tind Castellwnmare ; or, to Sol- 
mona, Isemia, Capna, uiil Nauiea. 



', HiEir. 

lernla by road 



..»,|A,.. 



SoIduhis' 



C«l-«lio 21 ., 

Harmore (Stat.); 

To ml may lis caatly vli 

IU«tl IStat.), (he a 



'i^tSn^ 



irained hy tlie Tsmi Fall {out by IheConiul Den- 
nlofij.isliljtlilycir— '-■■•- - - 






n the VU VuleHa, vai 
len. and waa tha capllal 
of (he Abniul psapls, 
r. tor their almiila Mid 
n, and folUifDl attaeb- 



»K« expiorod by Kcpjial Craven in 1H38 (Erenriioiit 

m tho dwellingi of the old Sablnea. Hence to C V- 
wIL ISmllaMinil lo Hume, past Tlroll. Wmlles; 
or to CanoU. Snbiaco, Anasna. and Froilgnoue, 
on the Naples rallwayi or lo CaraoJl, Tagliawniio, 
ATBSiaoo, on Lake Celano, and Sora, down to tha 

OlttaDni^ale (Stat.)-- population, &9se— orer 
Ihe former Naplta frontier, the ancient CaliHie, 

Antrodoeo (Stat.), or Jnlerorrea, nnder Monte 

Over 'a picturesque mountain path down U Ute 

•nun, now 8. Vlttorino, tha blHhplacd ot Sallail, the 
hlatorlan. There aragattq^t^' ...--. 



IGO 



BRAD8HAW S ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



Aqnila (Stat), at tho hood of the Aterito, the 
capital of Abnizzi Ulteriore Primo, In a rich vallcy 
in tho midst of some of the hij^hest pealcs of the 
Apennines — Monte Corbaro, M. Vclllno, Delia 
Duchessa, M. Culvo, and M. Carno, or Uraa Sauo 
dJtalia, 9.580 feet high Population, 18,000. It is 
a bishop'sRce.&c.andaconipurativcIy modern place, 
having been founded by the Emperor Frederick II., 
out of the ruins oiAveia and Amilernum, and called 
Aquila after the imperial eagle. The strong ('astle 
or citadel in the upiwr part of the town was built by 
(■harles V., 1534. It was the second city in Naples 
and could muhter 15,000 armed men; is wailed 
round, and lias eight out of its twelve Gates blocked 
up. It is pretty well built, though the streets are 
narrow and half tho space inside is garden ground. 
It suffered from the earthquakes of 1688, 1703. and 
1706, which last swallowed 2,000 persons. There 
are two large squares, with fountains. Formerly 
it4iad 100 Churchos, of which twenty-fix remain, 
chiefly in the Gothic ftyle. That of S. Bernar- 
dino da Siena was built by Cola della Amatrice, 
the sculptor and painter, and has a tomb of the 



saint, 1305. Among the other buildingrs are the 
Palazzo della Citth; the Dragonetti and Torres 
Palaces;. a College or Liceo Reale, Seminary, Hos- 
pital, Theatre, Ac. At the Palazzo della Clttk 
are interesting Roman Inscriptions. Aquila is 
noted for its sweetmeats and saffron. Many 
wealthy families reside here. The mutton, lamb, 
pigs, ham, sausages, &c., of this neighbourhood, 
arc all good. 

To Celano on Lake Celano, 24 miles, by a moun- 
tain road, over Monte Vellino, 8,897 feet high, at 
the summit. It commands a wide prospect of this 
part of the Ai>ennines. 

Celano (population, 4,900), with its old castlt, 
was nearly swallowed up by an earthquake, 16M. 
The lake was drained, 1862. It gives name to 
Thomas of Celano. composer of the fine evangelieal 
hymn " Dies lra5." 

From Aquila tho road and rail descend tlM 
Atemo to Solmona and Popoli. Thence to Cliietl, 
Pescara, and Castellammare (page 159) by rail; 
or to Capua and Naples, by road and rail. (8«e 
Route 33 for all these places.) 



K 



ilttuttion 
I in the 
e winter 
nrtment, 
>m, and 
; service 
Td, from 
IS abore 
3 10 lire, 
sily ob- 

he franc 
Ire cen- 
I. Soldo 
'eign=26 
uge. 

1 libra, or 

I7. The 

gallons. 

is 11-es 

is 8-7e6 
ha of the 



f station 



Psy. | ygt. 



«.L. 



L. 



180 



I 
•-1 

i ■ 

1 

4 

I 

a 
t 



c. 



SM 




oents. in 
Bry extra 
aore than 
rdsersoD 
arpet bag- 



r 




160 
AqnUa (Stat), 

capital of Abruzz i 
in the midst of no 
Apennines — Monto 
Ducliessa, M. Culvc 
<r Italia, 9,580 feet 
a bishop*88ce,&c., ar 
having been foun d 
out of the ruins of 
Aquila after the in» 
or citadel in the upK 
Charles V., 1534. 5 
and could niuhtcr 
round, and has ci{?l-'> 
up. It is pretty -w* 
narrow and half tl» 
It suffered from 1 1»< 
1706, which last »"* 
arc two large squ* 
lt*ad 100 ChurclmO 
chiefly in the Got 
dfno da Siena \v«i» 
the sculptor and I> 



■ s 



' v.-. 









V ■ 



ROUE, OR ROMA, 

Pc^ldUtep. (18M)), 111,000, I^mkut M«,MT la IMl 

Ma, ar AltMrfht;— Mort o( iha hntcli mn 
Jted IB tbs GngUab •fuutn'. batwnD P1»» 
Popoto, B«tM m Bpujim, Vi« C«ii*>tti, imd 

(ibMxl, «TTW»n BlElUtfd 






Adn. 



u(PI.» 






bUIm HUI; tuH uuMMnt h Um BMd 
tlcBUBiie. RumE, »Bd tb« Houi d( Torla, 
■tune. 8m Adn. 

rlatal Hoisl; Haul 4a I'Kuvpa; Hotel 
■•I Uuieri; Oiud Bald da Bcmei Balal 
LoHTRi Itolal Umdri; HoliIKoluv; Haul 
tla-AmciluiKi ; HoWl d'AnglaUm ; Haul 



>cBil« TcUeBbaI^fa, Vii Una MacMH. W, flnt, 
onlgind tMrd lloan(elo*e to FUau 41 Spacmi), 
4 by Hn. TaUtabaeiii nrr <D«d U arar; 
Hdi taawnB ai idad, See AdTL 



SSi 



HlMi BJnaTBe, Xadldi asd 

OKlBB Pan^an, 111. TlaNiudcuk; Paulin 
, Bar*. iltBtal IN, Til TarlK. nearOi* Cnlral 
JInr Stitloat rM^iiii ATum, is, via Capo 



Lon from 100 Co lao lira. A tEOBll apamuent, 
iprlHlD^ Ihrea bed-rDgmi. dLnlnf-nniii, and 



Moaay.— Th* mug ai tha Fnoch ; the frans 
cine cillad tin (or lirt in ptnral). Rra cra- 
ubnlicld. Bntlinli. Lin =«)d. EatUth. BoldD 

Ira pfr, aomriUiir te tha rats •> mkmit*. 
TfdfllU BMd Mawmna.— Tka Saoian Hbn, or 
b.. ii 'T117a>alrdapDl^ll lu, EnriUli odIt. Tha 
nhblD li SI bumhib. Th>- barlla It 1CII4 nlloDi. 
-he fool ii ll'll lacbai; u«:laDt («>> la 11-SS 

OnmlbUBeB uid Catn.— Tha raiiwKr atatiao 



a 8ollta.n,PlBii 

D|B«ua. -.paiiaiu, in, TiaflUiOnala. 

intlead of parbic gM at altrar, a UTln^ au] 
aflecKd by p«yln« Oir botal blUi In paper. 
Dood bepr, plgaona, tsrkaji. tlili. maihroomi, 
111, snd TegttablK; qsilU In Kaj, laikt ■- 



Tha faToiuiuqiianaTiattitbaTlcliiitjsrllaBta 
xda, PlaHadal IWlo, ud PUiudlBpacoK, 
tin localltr la bealOiy agd tba vatar pun and 




BBADSHAW'l 



Dnrlutlil tight iAjt of CarnlMUht prio nm* 
buttilea btforilmiid irhcn hind fgr th* Cor». 

Well uTTingid Ouiitirata nm frcqiHutl; 
anmgh TarioDi pirli of the cltf; fare. Itc. 

> Ventl Satttmbn 



A fmhiur. Piluio Fi 
Flaiii dl BpnEDK. 



Lmeclan Bplio 
atrael), IBTB. 



re i>apflr and enrelcpea 








M the Mi 








■Viei, (fit Ve 


lelri. Froa 






Cuertm In H 










Ort». TMt.1, and 


"fo'ii^O! to 








rid One, OrTle 


f>, Chloil. T 


ronlDl., an 






(BonWSS). (B. 


B AnuMon'i 


CotHanlal 


OuiU 


) 


T»wll<bjBle.in)toTlTol 


11 hour; 


to CL 




piM,Ae. 










Itaunoomi 












Co.'t Frenc 




Ape 


'7 


0S«>, 43, Flu I 


aNlowta, 




Twirie 




Tbe Anchor 


Lln^ Naplea 
mdrla dlrec 








S?i?!i;i=.« 


Agenl, 


ilr. 8 


B. 



InnlalSan It 1 
I Mken (It fl 



tSectlo&:<: 

I fail* <(i1bi ud noU) ■mja 

II above, Kulonal f-jm ncMv- 
1 Talne at lU public oSeea uid 



_.. - -, — -, M, V._ .._ _.. 

Vaoelll. I)t.Dtiiniiiiciiid,H,D..!,PlaiiadlSiianui. 
Dr. YoDng, M.D, SO. Plana dl Snuma. Dr, 
C. Spurway, 4S, Vis ConUMII. Dr. HUei, M.D., 

Sursxn AoiMiri,— Dr, Cnnii. BS. FIbeib dl 

Spaina. Dr. Chambsrlah "' 

■II Snattna, 



ill Snattna, 
Via Nuluiial 



bam, ElonnD 



ijMef^^y ro: 
Foria-i TcurUI Oflce, 81, '< 



OlaiM-.—EneHth CTuA.— Held al No. TB, Via 
lelU Cra». Att^l'i-AiatHai't Clui, 11, Via Con- 
lottl. Ilalim Alpine CliOi, K, Via Collegia 



Archwioileil Asioclulon, »S. Via Bsbulno. 
TlisatlBi.— -frpmHnii, or Camuntle, Via Tom 
Arganllna. 
Fa!/(.— Drama. Via Teatro Valle. 
(Bee dallr papeia, npecialif the Ilalll, pnbllaliHl 
Baddla BDTMI.— MO to fiOO lire a month. 



Capitol ; 









1. Event 4 Co., 
It Co., IS and II. i 



Plana S. Lonnso In Loclna. I 

gHgHik and Antrlaut AiiOe 

KookeT. n. Flizia dl SiMgna. ! 

with Ueiin. Haiinay and Pal 

Ambrl lailCiaunluiaiAtmli^A. Hacbean and 

Co, SI, Flaiia B. BUtealm. tfoiari. Olorgl and 

BiKiaai. IIS, Yit Fnntaa. F. X. HandUy, , 

'* J-UuH M SjHigna. VuMtUn, 10, Pluaa I 



__-terAil.— Via Qnattro FitntaDe. open dai^, 
I (romlO-SOIott. Thonday.ataB. 

Cnjifdri.— Open to tho public eifry day. Half. 
'■ a lira. from lots 3, Bund*;) and bolldnyi. free. 

I Olonna; Tueiday.Tbnndar, and aalniday, Iran 
StoS. 

ilorii.— Via del Cono, at Folaiao DoHa : 
on Tno>d»>-> and FridBy.,^roffl 1(110 1. If 

^nrneu. — On Hatnrdayj ipeclal order 

FariHifna,— lit and letb of montb; 10 lo 



lIOfiuK KOlllt. 



udHoUdva, free. 

AuptfKoij.— On the^irlniil;'apcii 

^pada.— PilBiEO Spudai by ipecii 

JMmlalfumm.'ilStea » priscn 
YlOlta-t—Villa BDfV*»c.— TueHlay 
Sitarday. and Sunday. bRci 1, free ; C 

LwtEit^lViuwm.— AiPal.Plambino 
Toesdays, ThnrMlayi, and Satnrdiji, 

VilU McdM (DthenriM the Frencb 1 
~ unadayi and Saturday!, » 

Pant^t-Doria. — Open, U 



dDjk.lli] 



Friday 






written application to Uooalgnor U 

Pntilie Offloea— HlnlttTiM — 

Pal. Brascbl. /■orri^.Con.nLliPali 
Old ConTent ot S. Uaria-Soprn-Ml 
Plana delle T.rme. JlaHnt.koaya 

dtlla Stunpeilii. 

Weak at Home .— Thnaa who a 
flndthB tollowlne«ugi 



rnL. Bycwry- 



Tlllaa, untaLnlolT ^1 



in Hill are won 
dellghltnl evei 



itanitlni palacei si 

d (0 the public onco 
I i> mgulred, &u cen' 



la S. It vIU b* adTliablfl te 



^-lid Ariel's 



WednBKlav or Friday. ° " ^ netemaiy 
*Cblef ObJactB of Hotloe an a> belon (tl 

Forbcai Touritfi DinrUre, and Mr. J. p.'fk» 
AnAKolog^ of Xoim, with a,3(K» HiBtorlcal Ph 



tine Chapel, page 194. 
nrch or Trfnltk de' 
aonti. page til. 
ppacclnlChnrcb.paEe 



.page 181. 
jt. Giovanni 



Tsmpreo/MnervaUallea. 

ColoHiam, page 211, 
Itela Sudaas, page 3 
Archtf Contan >6h, \ 



th> (Latin) MedUgTal 
tiallne SiH Exana- 

lOreh ol 81. Qregorio, 



Qaie -nt St. Sebaiuaii, 
FtuTUaai a/Egaia, paga 
Appian Way, page JIB. 



loman Poritm, past 



164 



&ftiJ>0HAVs ITALt. 



[Section Si; 



Itiy, and Moflaie Mftii- 

nfMrtorj), pag« 193. 
CtkplUA^ page 200. 
Hospital of St. Spirito, 

page 308. 
8t. Onofrio, page 190. 
Pauline Fountain, page 

170. 
Villa Doria Pamfill,page 

206. 
Church of St. Pictro in 

Montorio. page 191. 
Church of St. Cecilia In 

Trastevere, page 1H4. 
Corsini Palace, page 2U3 
Palazzo Spnda, page '206, 
Fountain of Trevi, page 

170. 
Church of St. Fletro in 

Yinccli, page 191. 
Mamertine Prison, 214 



Clrareti of tha - Jaamlti, 
paga lU. 

Boman Callafaf pagt 

207. 
Church of St. Andrea 

delle Valle, page 188. 
Doria Palace, page 203. 
Sciarra Palace, page 205. 
Burghese Palace, page 

202. 
Pantheon, page 216. 
Matuoleum of Auguitiis, 

page 217. 
St. Peter's, page 176. 
Tomb of Hadrian (Cast el 

Sant* Angelo), p. 218. 
Santa Scala, 181. 
Tatican (including Sis- 
tine Chapel, Pauline 

Chapel, Museums, 

Library, Picture Gal- 

Thei«e are some of the principal sights in Rom*', 
Irat there are "-any more which the visitor will 
have little <iifficu1ty in finding out. See '' Kome*' 
tn the Index at the beginning. 

Roman Art. — PrlncltMiI Roman AnMtecU from 
the period of the Renaissance, or revival of modem 
art ■ (N.B. Our 16th century, here given, is the 
Italian 14th century; and so on): — 

16th century. — ^G. da Majano, R. Pintelll. 

36th century. — Dramante (died 1614), Sangallo, 
Michael Angelo, B. Peruzzi, Raphael, Q. Romano, 
Vignola, Ammanatl, G. della Porta, D. Fontana 
(died 160T). 

17th century .—C. Madcmo (died 1 629), F. Ponzlo, 
O. Rainaldi, G. B. Soria, Bernini, Algardi, 
C. Rainaldi, G. A. de' Ros8i.(dicd 1696). 

18tb century.— Fontana (died 17U), A.Galilei, 
Paivi, Prigft* Vanvltelli, C. Marchionni, R. Stem 

Pai^*er1^.~r^^i)^ century,- Raphael (the Trans- 

gguratioii); M- Angelo (the 1^%X Judgment); 
'. Romano, G. Penni, P. del Vaga, G. da Udlnc, 
Qarofalo, F- aucoaro, D'Arpino, Caravaggio, Au- 
Bibale and Agostiho < arracoi. 
17th century. — Baroccio, Domenicfaino, Guide 

ghe Aurora), Gnercino, Lanfranco, A. Sacchi, 
.Maratta, P. da Cortona, Claude, S.Rosa.Poussin. 
J 8th century. — P.Panninl, P. Battone, R. Mengfi. 
Aw'li'ar*— Sansovino, B. Cellini, M. Angelo, 
G. delta Porta, BeminJ, A. Algardi, Canova. 

" Rome, in all her vast dimensions," says Men- 
delssohn, "lies before me, like an interesting 
problem, to enjoy ; but I go deliberately to work, 
daily selecting some different object appcrtaiiiln? 
to history. One day I vi^it the ruins of the 
ancient city ^ another! go to the liorghese Gallery 

or to the Capitular to St. Peter's -or to the 

Vatican Each day is thuR made memorable, and, 
as 1 take my time, each object becomes f(»rclbly 
and Indelibly impressed on me. Just as Venice, 
with hor past, reminded me of a vast monument — 
jbvr crumbliug modem palaces and the perpetual 
^^tB0iubnnce oS fotfoxx splendour, causing sad and 
atmfoamat s^nmHa nB ' § a does the past of Rome 



tnggeit the imMnooation of hlitory. Her mdnt- 
ments elevate the aoul, ifitpiring solemn yet serene 
feelings ; and it is a thought fraught with exulta> 
tion that man Is capable of producing creations 
which, after the lapse of a thousand years, stiU 
renovate and animate others." 

There is a great deal of second and third-rate 
painting and sculpture at Rome, which the experi> 
enccd orfatigued visitor will soon learn to pass over; 
but even inferior objects are sometimes of service as 
a foil to the best, by showing how some artists paint 
or carve. In this Guide we have cndeavonred to in- 
dicate every object worth notice, according to Its 
position and locality; recording all, or the stj}* 
stance of all that is usually said of each, with its 
history and present appearance. But thCBc accounts 
must be taken with some reserve, since the history 
of many remains of antiquity, their names, sites, 
originad appearance, &c., are in dispute, and by no 
means attended with that certainty which the full 
and positive accountn given in grave authorities 
would lead one to believe. The best plan is for 
the stranger to make himself well acquainted 
with their names and positions as here indicated, 
to read what is said of them by ordinary gruides, 
and then to turn to more critical wi iters, such as 
Forsyth and Braun. who classify their subjects, 
and view them according to their respective schools 
or styles, in chronoloprical order; carefully weigh- 
ing them in the critical balance, and sifting the 
chafT from the wheat. 

Borne, or Roma, the capital of the Kingdom of 
Italy and the Catholic world, the seat of the Gorem- 
ment of Italy and of the Pope's Court, formerly the 
capital of the Roman and Western Empires, Ac, 
stands on the Tiber, 16 miles from the sea, on the 
undulating- table land of the Campagna, or Agra 
Romano, on a site from 80 feet to 20() feet high, 
the greater part on the Latin or east side of 
the river. I'he famous Seven Hills are ridgea 
of moderate height, which, when covered with 
buildings, and the valleys between them filled upk 
are hardly more discernible than the hills of Lon- 
don. These are the Qulrinal, Viminal, Esquiline, 
Ccellan, Aventinc, Palatine, and Capitoline Hills; 
of which the (Duirinal and Esquiline are the 
highest, about 200 feet. 

The old Roman city occupied the Coellan, AventiQe, 
Palatine, and Esquiline Hills tor the fRosi part; the 
Palatine and Aventlne being in the middle of li. 
Those fo^r hills lie to the south, but have been 
abandoned for the plain of the Campus Martins, to 
the north, where the modem citv now for the most 

Eart stands. This wau an oi)cn, grassy field in tl^e 
Republican period, used for military exercises} on 
which, under the Emperors, temples, baths, theatres, 
to., rose in every direction: one of the earliest 
being the Pantheon. Modern Rome may be said 
to besr'n where ancient Rome ended, and to be built 
Jt;t of its ruins; In other words, the Capitoline, or 
Campidoprlio. servos to mark the division between 
the Old City and its ruins on the south and ea^ 
from the New City, to the north and west, along 
both sides of the river. The palaces, ohitiiiliai, 



\ 



Bcmte sa.] HODERi 

MlnDuu. abelliki.u(t tsmUloua ia tba iDlubtlwl 
> Roman inin <lSg7) u "comiuDnplaiw. iHatibT, 



Qirdens. Il nu ca 
tho Borghew Qart 



miiUon. BDd bag > 

Kmmuinel. Tb« olhor two h 



Manlal'i lime. Tho Jaulculuin {froiu Juoiu) Is 

cDlonr ol tbe soil, and is tho h[ghost ' In Rome 
iTltUn tbe w^ls. The >[ceii of l»t« »» on tbis >ldc. 

by tbe Ane Pon» del Popolo. uiidcr tbe Pbiclmi 
HHI.ludlngco theFliiizadlSlia£n*(tbtEn|;ll>b 
onuter), VU Condolti. and the Corio. 

Uuota Teitacclo {lain, potsberds) ts an artiBclal 
mound ol mbblrfi, tbLefly broken puttory. oloBotn 
Porta a. Faoht, utlheeuutli comer ol Ibo valla, 

oatoh tbe ett^ct of the ■eHUwjiim. It la near tbe 

uidIbePy»mld of CeKiiii. It bai been luv^eiled 
tbaC tbi> uuiBM <rt broken polury was biuogbt here 

ecDieni with irhlcta the cbunnela oiaqueilncti Ac, 



ffMiiani, acatwred ehnrchca, sod eonyents. 

THB SByEM HIU-S. 

1. Tba CapUolixB HOI, >o called From a head 
{foput) found In digging Ibe foundatloria of Ibe 

on tbe e>i9-. gide. U» tbe Koth aide iilbe !U|i|ioteil 
Tarpalm RocL, eniriiico IhruUKh » «ardcn, in- 
ecrlW "Qal eo vede la Kocca Tarpea ") It Is 






a fortrea* and a unctuary, tbe repoaltory of tbe 
VtUi Oraolee, the eeat of tb* Tutelar Deitlaa of 
the eomlret vid the aUv of nunr t*inplaa and altare. 
Of 111 tbCH notUngrenilu bnt O* HlU (Outte* 



■on. 1» 

tiona of certain bblldlnn, th* KiibUi of till Sena- 
tor, and tbe Uamsrtlnel'rlun. to wblch crlmluala 

3. The PaliitliK Ifur. between tbe Foram and 
Cirnus Maxinms, we. Ibe alta of Augusnifi Palace 
(whence tba name), wWlb wi. t.lended by^Nm 

Huuae. Tba rubia eilsttil till the etgblh cenluiy, 
and werepanlywveredi.ytbe Urti FemailuH. 
houglit In 1870 by "" J'^^'"^^!."^''^"^ 
M«™«™weel5Hy(lllra) and Sniidayt (free). 



del Qnlrtnale. Here was the Temple of Qnirlooi, 
< TboCaHon i/irt (Cello) was' formerly an eeJt 



Here tslho Church of Senta Maria dngli Aiiselli 

Mi oaidcns. and'hei^^re" nmabi's'of (he Belht of 
Titus oD tba lita of Nero'i Golden Honsa. Partol 
It wai used for bBnilng the dead before depositing 



eel dlnmelorot whieh is » in Ilea luirlh-wBel 
th-eail. Their circuit is about 1:2 mllea. 

^e7wal]■ofLrvia■Tu'llln^bnl'lto^IqnarB 
ilcd blocks, B.C. BOO; and were rottored by 

mcrcea towers, and made use of the briok, 

OYorThcy'^nldBct thom. lu BJJ, Leo iv' took In 
the Vatican or Leonine luhorb aoroas the Tiber. 
The laet reparation of the ▼aU*^**!*****^^**^!. 



166 



BBADBHAW*8 ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



of fttbblAh, but inside they are in some places 50 
feet hight are without a ditch, bat retain many 
towers and bastions. They are pierced by eleven 
gates, at which are bureaux of customs and gen- 
darmerie. There were over twenty Gates In the 
old walls. Under the Kmpire the public ways 
were lined with houses, and Nero, who was great 
in his projects, intended to have inclosed half the 
Campagna within the city walls. 

MUNICIPAL DISTRICTS. 

Rome is divided into fourteen Rioni, so called 
(since 1748) from the ancient Regiones of Augus- 
tus, with which, however, they do not correspond 
in name or boundaries. 

1. Campo Marzo (Campus Martins), near Porta 
del Popolo.— Here are Piazza del Popolo, Piazza 
di Spagna, Phician Gardens, Villa Medici, Trinitk 
del Monte Church, Borghese Palace. 

2. Colonna, from the Aurelian Column. — ^Part of 
Campus Martins, Piazza Colonna, Curia Innocen- 
ziana. Villa Ludovisi. 

3. Trevi, on the Pincian and Quirinal, where 
three roads join. — Quirinal Palace, SS. Apostoli 
Church, the Torlonia, Colonna, and Barberini 
Palaces, Trevi Fountain. 

4. Sant* Eustachio, in the lower town. — Churches 
of 8. Eustachio, La Sapienza, S. Andrea della 
Valle, Valle Theatre, S. Luigi Church, 8. Carlo dei 
Catenari. 

5. Pigna, in the middle of the lower town, fh>m 
the pine trees once here. — Pantheon, Church of 8. 
Ignazio, Doria, Venezia, Altieri, Minerva Palaces. 

6. Ponte, in the north-east, near Ponte S. Angelo. 

7. Pavione, in the north-east. — Piazza Navona, 
Cancellaria, Campo dei Fieri. 

8. Regola, near the east bank of the river, said 
to be a corruption of areola, or arenula, from the 
sands of the river. — Famese and Spada Palaces. 

9. Sant' Angelo in Peschiera, between the Capi- 
tol and the river, on the west side, the smallest 
region of all. — Theatre of Marcellus, OrsinL, and 
Mattel Palaces. 

10. Monti, the largest, on the site of ancient 
Rome, north-east part. — Includes the Esquiline, 
Viminal, Baths of Titus and Diocletian, 8t. John 
Lateran, 8anta Maria, St. Peter in Vincoli, Palazzo 
Rospigliosi. 

11. Campitelli, south-east part of the same site. 
— Capitoline and Palatine Hills, Forum, Colosseum. 

12. Ripa, south-west part of the same site, near 
the river side. — Baths of Caracalla, Aventine, 
M. Testaccio, Temple of Vesta, 8anta Maria in 
Cosmedin Church. 

13. Trastevere, on the west side of the Tiber .«- 
Janicnlum, Porto di Ripa Grande, 8. Pietro in Mon- 
torio, 8. Onofrio, Corsini, Salviati, and Famesina 
Palaces, Villa LantL, Acqua Paolo Fountain. 

14. Borgo, on the west side, or Cittli Leonina. — 
St. Peter's, the Vatican, Oastel S. Angelo, 8. Spirito 
HotgnittH, Palazzo Giraud. 

Jitdepeadently of ita mnnicipaX districts Rome 
jfmJgtB of tbr00 great dMsUms, vi^.;— The Lower i 
'•^ or If 00^ part, between the efiBtern WU*, the I 



Tiber, and Capitol; Upper Town, along the east 
hills; and the town across the river, or Trastevere, 
on the west bank. 

I. The Lower Town contains the former Campua 
Martius and Campus Tiberinus; the Ck)rso, 
1 mile long fr<>m Piazza del Popolo to the foot of 
the Capitol; Piazza di8pagna; Caff^ del Greco, or 
Artists' Club ; Ripetta Landing and Ferry; Piazza 
Colonna and Antonine Pillar; Curia Innocenziana, 
or Courts of Justice ; Palazzo Borghese : Corea, 
or Amphitheatre of Augustus ; Caff^ di Fontana 
di Trevi, or Antiquarians' Club; Cafft di Monte 
Citorio, or Club of Men of Letters; Palazzo di 
Venezia; Strada del Gesu and its church ; Piazza 
Navona, one of the largest open places; La 
Sapienza University; Pantheon and La Minerva 
Church; Palazzo Famese; Strada Giulin; San 
Bartolommeo Island and Hospital of Ben Fratelli, 
so called from their motto. Fate hene^ Fratdli, 
" Do good. Brethren ; " Santa Maria in Cosmedin, 
one of the oldest churches; Coclian hill and its 
churches ; Lateran Church and Palace ; Monte 
Testaccio; Colosseum. 



II. The Upper Town, or east part of the city, on 
the slope of the Pincian and Quirinal, consists 
chiefly of palaces, villas, churches, convents, with 
their courts and gardens. It contains the Quattro 
Fontane, at the intersection of two main streets, 
one from the Quirinal to Porta Pia, the other from 
Piazza Barberini to Santa Maria Magglore; Pro- 
menade, on the Pincian; Trinitkde' Monti Church; 
the Via Sistlna; Palazzo Barberini ; Villa Plom- 
bino; Quirinal Palace, on Monte Cavallo; Santa 
Maria Maggiore Church; Campo Vaccino, or 
Forum; Capitol , or Campidoglio; Trajan's Column. 

III. The third division, on the west bank, or 
Etruscan side, of the Tiber, is generally called 
Trastevere r<^., trans-Tiber); but the Trastevere 
proper is confined ta the south part beyond the 
Aurelian wall, where the Roman slaves, and the 
barracks for soldiers and sailors, were quartered; 
now the seat of the manufacturing population. 
Here are the tobacco factory, potteries, and wax- 
candle works; the last an important branch of 
trade in Rome. Trastevere is divided from the 
Borgo (round the Vatican) by walls and gates, and 
joined to it by a road called the Lungara. This 
division contains St. Peter's and the Vatican 
Palace; Inquisition (now a barrack); the new 
Piazza Pia; 8. Angelo Castle and Prison; S. 
Spirito Hospital and Cemetery, open on All Souls* 
and other days; Salviati Palace and the Botanic 
Gardens ; Via Lungara, along the Tiber; Janictt- 
lum Hill; Palazzo Corsini; 8. Calisto and S. Fran- 
cesca a Ripa Churches; Villa Pamfili. and its 
promenade; Acqua Paolo Fountain, the largest in 
Rome, of which it commands a good viewi Santa 
Maria in Trastevere Church ; 8. Michele House of 
Industry; Ripa Grande Quay, Lighthouse, and 
CustomHouse ; Porta Portese. In one part^alled 
the Lungaretta, is the mediaeval tower of Evcrto, 
Couit of Ancuillera, now used at a (i»ct^ry for 



. itocimi ' BOiu. 



The Tiber fTOerU, of Teivn) rl 



jd A(trlpp»|f> op to t.O: »0-Pon. AonsUni, Bp W 

-^,.. .u. » .L,.™ .. B ....,, .,™ SO > MBr-P™. V.1™l^^1*lll^ up to 7S3,-uid «it.r- 

fcatwldo. AlBomS.Sepolero, the i«lrlMt part, I "^"^'^^'^^^^^jli^h,,^ „j p„„^ Owttt* 

lh."'-itIS''n™i^ ^°«nrf'ritT« llflPp''iMl'lln»' I "f sin"B(irt"lomiDeo'Vb6»nCienrfilIUI«Trb»lIlBi 

E.c^.ttEeRlp.Knb«re„.noqo;y.<.r-Jk. '•;>'^1' "i^'"''''"^^;:^'' *">" 1^ ;:!* 1*' 

•loog lu urombUne bulk.. Th«e ue two ports, l"'*^"-, ^^i* ?"?""' "y*- '" ^?''™i^" " ^1 

or limdliig-pliicH. II Ijbeliif cl«ttedoot,iiidl. "'^^ Jmui >t tbM end, 1) the njclciie Pon* 



3r Ijmdlng-pli 

to be NUbkUkvo, mna b bdo 

bend nur Be. Ful'i Cbunb. 

nrli>d(A4M<'d, tothenart 

AoTB a. Angclo Bridge. Hi 






.nblect) 



loiplo, t 



iii itUl In good pruen 



ia bridge, which w: 

abnilt by Plug llf'sn'd lire 



enlnry, And th* rt- 
Ito, below Iiolk dl 

baILt by Comelln* 

—J byAoirB*- 

XtU., anf 



. . tn SrihcnBwbtag* 
bolltiesa. TheClouiUmilmifc 
11 Subllcini, furtbor down, nndtr 
e.r Ports TrlBemlns: sfewtMMi. 
water near a windmill. Thl> wm 

'.Hnbllclw) by Ancui Marcitu; then of Btano, on 
-'^reoarcbcs, by U.fmiUna Lepldiu, Ihft cenur, 
,.. the reien of Angurtuii. It wu tho scene of 

ir Ponte Horilin. Cocle.' famons eiploll, and wai carried 
on the , away hy the floodi. in Ih? lime of Adrian I. 

lo^Si" I BTBEBTB, OLWATB, He. 






raiKhl; 



theoldwall.andl- 


"is 






dockyard. Anothe 






8 of 


to Via della Mann 


rata, lacliis 


RIpi 




BO called rrom Ihe 


oarblea It 111 




i he 


old tlmee. lor boll 


Ing and le 


l™or 


. I 


tinned by Via de 




Tbe 


pier 


ancient bridge ma 






wing 


bed ha. been «ry 


liHle railed 
BRmoES 








bridge., 






Fimu &H.C Anffrif 


LlbePOB. 


*;ilD 




iiS"JUi?^i^.? 


DderClemai 


:IX 


by 



'egptablc, ftc. 

rta Minnet'a, In 
iralia, oc 



, Llghtia 






], RlpRtta. BlstlnB, 



All antlqultlei foDnd In makinir Ihe i 
areplacrflntheCapUol MoMum. Be 
1 view ate the Towc t of the Capllol, opeo 

I ontbcPlnolanHliliMontaTeMacclOil 



ja bidlt byHadriar _ „^ 

, tlw ilnr to Ua HaoMOttuu (now Ihe Cutle «r St^ I ^ 'MldA"b*teii W . '^C^uusST 



bbumhaVb niLT. 

It wlal, hHiwt, Jl btlnn Ibt 
oWtMtW in Ihffilud*. ud 
- ■■■- ' '-!» irtlli IsloUa 



4«iUt RoTambu i^ DMambM-. It li bHiIhj It euulitod af " 
traBthlitoHir. laiiuDmaTthara Ukbandancesf ' MrMt*, irttk Ul 



n OlUttO, Of Ik* J«M' tauter, sow dt- 

loUilwd, WM •Miuud batman Tte ildta 

■*"■-■ ills ol tiM 



•nlhehlUi.t ... 

qultnaa, tuita.*Bil ipldaii, )■ vaiy laroHiitlng, 

KaiiaaliBlHniblelawati>aatEi<- "" " 

•iHvdalsiifaii Hn "iBUrnnggd 

Im tke ksps o( better tlmd. Indoon 

i- -'^ffmg.j^ (1,^ wlddowa, willed 

"■ '-■ whittle) Uiroiigh 



taDeeti I dlrtlatt, n 



Erwjtbijit," Tout 



and boot!, dm, bad imalli^ 






g wiUm 
by old el< 

poMMd »pplea, ihi. , , , 

■Dd ibomlDatloiu wiottarabla." — (Hiu Cailow^ 
BtelcMiig BaaMnO Orer tbe gate waa a oncUIx, 
wltti the text :— -All day long hiTalMnlolwd forth 
ly bands unlv adltobadlfint and galntaytnspaapla." 




aloplnv, 10 the waterpoun down them and 
toward! 7011- The Tlbar haa oTaifiown lla 
ul Inundated tbe adjacent itntla. Tlu Boiaaa 
kBTt no water-eponU. and tha long mota ilant pr*- 
elpltouilf; but Iwlni Df dUtnal langtlu, thli 
Mue> an laeouaot violent Inundation m botk 
lide'aol the ilraetii 10 that go when fou will, 



Tiie prlnolpil and moU Urely Ihorourhlan 
the OoriO. Bntorlng Ronie by the line Gate ai 
Pluza del Popalo, tbrea prlzicliial ttreeti dlTeri 
tbrough the city, tIi.:— the Via dl RlpeCla ai 



rlgbl and left of U» 





wh'ic 


1> the Corio. 


The Cono 






modem city alo 




tha Forum 




Capllollne HII 


Hare Iha 


horM-racQi 


taka 




CKiilval, 




ty dlD 


•it,^s-^: 


m thoee at 


Aoms!' hI 










dornedwllhequl 


• and .piked 






aoks. Mart Froni 


the Plana 


dolPopoloai 




tha Conn, urged by tbe ihouti 


of the poupli,, whQ 


glow up behind 


b.m. They 


nre caimht 


by Iho 




end. The 


•takei are 


ai Kudi. or a piece o( t 


TCt. ThsH 


•take, were 
oiamptlonf 


Sf 


Id by the Jew., 


idriSi''tkl 




rly the ciuUHn, 


On thalait 


he Cai 




tri'ene tha 



wrirjoa* to put ararybftdy'elia'e oandl* ant with 

thaoiyot "Banitmooook.l" ■ 

•tb* ratoBlMl Soman MTaa 4r* In the Copm I 

•>a^ai&0 AuiMM PfVDlo.kBd tha PwtkFlai 

•^ JtHSUta Mill, Om fVoaMtglat HMtAnitH 



ll drawi nigh." 

"Tameott are th« T4w Courta, 

PelytwJmlea, Sew Honaea at 

at Palua of Fine Art. lu Via tlatloiMl*^ 
HaitM, Bimuki Uld UUltaiy Hoepltal, 



SQITAXBB. 

Thsre *r« nearly 1<D open aqnuae In Rob^ 
called Plaiia, plural Plaaie. moelly onwaented 
with fountain!. Soou of tbe moat notloedd* 
are:— noffii OarlirUl taclnc tha Barbeilnl 
Palace, on the alta of tha Clietu of Flora. Tfi« 
Fontwa del Trttona. !,-••-■■■ 



n (cattle Durket), near the Xlhar, fa< 
irchof BBntaMai1atnC(i.inedln. Itta 
■ marble moaih la ' ' 



withdraw It, tie ruined Temple of Harcnla* 
(cnce iuppoied of Vsala) iicloM by; a eiroalai 
building, Uedlested to Santa Maria del Hole. 

Plam del Ctunpfdopfie, or of tka Capitol at th* 
north end ol the Fomm. (Sea Capital, fnrtbar an.> 

P(ai»<J<C^inpo<fi''&re,inVlade'Capellarl.tlw 
ilto of a Templeof Flora. Heretlci were bDint ber*. 
— '-- 'inntaln, fed by the Aoqua Verglna, 




_ _ _ UocstalnitU 

UtTguAtKaltBiOolaiBnOirOolooaB, (romwhlat 
lb* i««MU ««U M lhk<M<MU taadl; liDMM}) 



RoBtA u.] Mosai 

fttnuiUln, l>7D(Ut Foita; Uu C%l, nusbliUL 
■ad Briudora Ftitem. A niUta at tntln 
UaplUii»(lroiBt)uiiBd«tEtciu«ui " " 
omAi Um idd Port Otts*. 
_ Mmw/Wmm Im« U» Fub*h Fklut, Bau 
Two Iranlti bulu IWm UM 



iBcUrotTiUk 



^>]»l^d 



1^ nHuloi to lb* mritnTo' lU Kurea (aov 



iXS 



awT of model 

17 Ol B I«kB *g 



ul Bunlnl, 
I* faqide at 



Arnes' Cbunb oppults. Iha inik al BoithdIbI. 

■TheEKsptlan Oie/iii OTor [hB (oonlslji itm brought 
I ... .1, lu .i„. ™ .1.. VI. Appia, to 




Piaita at Spafftiai » called tram 11 

bouring tlreeti, an manybotela ondcalfti. siid'ln 
Via Oaodottl l> Offfi iti Onco. whore the AnisH' 
ClDb moela. Thia li ln> EoKllah part oI tbg cliy, 
lUWEnclUhahelto." Uendeli- 
Mo. (, In ■ ^aU bonie. nlth t> 



170 



BSADSHAW'S XTlLt. 



I^^ction ^. 



composed pari of hl's Walpnrgis Night. A 
fountain, shiipM lilee a boat, designed by 
Bernini, and called Fontana della Barcaccia, 
stands near the steps which lei£d i^ to the 
Church of Trinitk de Monti, under the PiA- 
cian. Here Beppo, now dead, the Idng of the 
beggars, kept court (see Stobt*8 Roba di RomOj 
chapter III). The College of the Propaganda, 
where missionary priests are educated, is close by. 
A marble column, at the comer, commemorates the 
publication of the dogma of the Inmiaculate Con- 
ception in 1854. 

Piazza Rusticueci^ facing the portico of St. Peter's, 
of which it commands a view, forming an entrance 
to Piazza S. Pietro; enlarged some years ago, 
when the house, in which Raphael died, was 
pulled down. 

Piazza di 8. SUvestro, with a monument to 
Metastasio (1886). Part of the old monastery has 
been converted into the handsome Post (5ffice, 
and the Offices of Public Works. 

Piazza delle Tartarughe (Tortoises), near the 
Mattel Palace ; and so called from the fountain on 
tortoises, a work of Delia Porta. This is one of 
the finest fountains in Rome. 

Piazza delle Terme, or di Termini^ f acingthe l^er- 
mce^ or Baths, of Diocletian, and 8. Maria degli 
Angeli Churdi; near, the new Railway Station 
and the Fontanone dell* Acqua Felice. 

Piazza della Tribuna^ behind the Church of Sta. 
Maria Maggiore. 

Piazza Trinita^ facing the church of the Trinita 
de* Monti, on the Pincian, near the house and 
gardens of Sallust, containing an imitation obelisk 
(ancient). 

Piazza di VeneziOj at the south end of the Corso. 
Here are the Palazzo di Venezia (now the Austrian 
Embassy) and the Torlonla Palace. 

Piazza VUtario Emanvele, in the new quarter. 

FOUNTAINS. 

Rome is well supplied with water from about 
fifty public fountains, besides smaller ones, making 
a total of nearly 600. Several of these are noticed 
above, under the head of the Piazzas in which they 
stand. 

Fontanone ddP Acqua Felice^ near the Baths 
of Diocletian. It is supplied by the Acqua 
Felice Spring, and is a handsome pile constructed 
for Sixtus V. (whose name was Felix, or Felice), 
by D. Fontana. Between the statues of Aaron 
(by Delia Porta) and Gideon (by F. Vacca) is a 
colossal, but inferior, Moses Striking the Rock, 
by a Brescian artist. 

^Fontana Paolina, on the summit of the Jani- 
culum, near Porta S. Pancrazio, is supplied by the 
Acqua Paola of Paul V., who gave his name to 
both. It looks like a triple triumphal arch, and 
was constructed by G. Fontana, 1612. The marble 

Sillars are from the Temple of Minerva which stood 
II the Forum Transitorium ; the granite colnmna 
^xmara from the o}d church of St. F«ter. 

^""^"^^/hm; la fivat of tb$ rt^MSXo Poll, « 



large mass of water supplied by the Acqua'Yergine. 

It is the work of N. Salvi, in (element XII.*s reigff. 

The Neptune if by P. Bracci; Abundance an<f 

Health are by Delia Yalle. 
€hie of the attractive features of Rome is the 

numbtff of sparkling fountains. 

' ' From yon blue hills 
Dim in th« elonds, the radiant Aqueducts 
Turn their innumerable azobee e'er 
The npadoue desert, brightening in the sun, 
Proud and more proud in their angosC approada 
High o'er irriguous vales, and woods, awl towns, 
Olide the soft whispering waters in the wtmi. 
And here united pour their silver streams 
Among the figured rocks, in murmuring falls, 
Musicid ever."— Dtxb'b Jtuins of Jtome. 

AQUBDUCTS. 

Three still remain, and supply the fountains witk 
an ample abundance of water. 

Acqua Vergine comes from CoUatia, 14 mile* 
distant, and suj^lies the conduits in Via Condotti 
(whence the name). Fountains ef TTevf, La Barcac* 
cia, Famese, Piazza Navona, and nine others, in 
the lower city. 

Acqua Felice (formerly A^a Claudia) takes ita 
name from its restorer, Felice Pcretti, afterwards 
Pope Sixtus v., and supplies the fountains of 
Moses, of the Tritons (Piazza Barberini), Monte 
Cavallo, and twenty-four others, in the Un^r 
Town, vid Porta Pia, from springs 37 miles off. 

Acqua Paola (formerly Trajana) comes in from 
the Bracciano Lake by Mons Janiculnm, and 
supplies the Vatican quarter and Trastevere, the 
Paolina and St. Peter*s fountains, crossing the 
Tiber by the Ponte Sisto. It was begun by 
Augustus, and restored by Paul V. and Clement X. ; 
the engineers being G. and D. Fontana. 

At AOLlua Allmln (Station Bagni, 18 miles from 
Rome) is a sulphur spring, with a Bath House. 

OBELISKS. 

A peculiar feature of Imperial architecture. 
Most of them were imported from Egypt, after the 
conquest of that province; and are usually single 
square-sided blocks of red granite, with hiero- 
glyphics, similar to those now at London and Paris. 
After being overturned and neglected they were 
again made use of to adorn modem Rome, by 
Sixtus v., who set the example with the one before 
St. Peter*s. 

Obelisk of S. Giovanni in Laterano (Constantius 
Obelisk), facing the Lateran Palace. The highest 
in Rome, the shaft being 105| feet, or with base, 
Ac, 149 feet. The shaft weighs about 445 tons. 
Two sides 9 feet S^in,, and the others only 9 feet. 
This difference is observable in all, more or less. 
It was brought from Heliopolis (in a galley of 800 
rowers) to the Circus Maxlmus, and raised on its 
present site by D. Fontana, 1588, in the reign of 
Sixtus V. 

Obdi$k of MonU CavaOo (Quirinale Obelisk), 
fixed here 1786. No hieroglyphics; 95 feet Ugh, 
or 48 feet the shaft only. 
I Ok{Mo/JCoiKcC«0?^(Oa»p«nMQWU^>i;rom 



KODBKH ROUE. 



*yPlIu«!,lnnS9. 






OMiit ef Piaaa Savma (PamausD Obelisk), s» 

from Aa ClrcDiolMaientluB. by Beminl, ISei: 
arlglnilly [ruin DomltJui'a Albaa Villa. 

amikoflHaaaditPopolo (FJamlnlo 01k1U«, 
118 feet high, to Itaecroii ontbo tuffimit, or.T^ 
feeltheshi/lool)-. TranBportcil from the Campni 
HBrtini. by FoQttuiB. in 1SS9. 

Ob^Ut of Bl. Parr, or lie Tatkan, ISl feel 
lilSh to the eroa. or 83 feel the thafl only. Dedi- 
cated to the San, but wlthnnl blero^lyphlca. At 









Talni ruJIj.— (Drama), near the Seplsnis 
-CtUaati PniDii), In TU Finail. 
£<9lil»f(l[*ni>iietta*),TI«<l*'So1datl. Couult 

' tl)* J^anwia, mthW; Vlfi^ tin French). 



Rome. Built by Hot 
Plus 1V„ by VlgnolB 






It by Be1i>.riq<, 



Honorlns, mid nov cloied. Here li the Palace 
r>r the Engllih Enibauy. TbeMlnlitry of Finance 



•nd itrenglhened by H 



Jn|.e.lonof AqnaMs 



• new g«te haying been 
a. Aqna TeimlH, and Aq>" 



i,d restored by V. 
jf Euyaacefl, the 1 



biilUbjOi _ . 

Tontei to Frascall or Albajie. by AppEa Nova, tr* 
tbla ^ate, are anperaeded ty the rail. 

Peria Lalina (on tba Via Lallna), made by 
Honorios. *,D.4Ds, and repaired 9S^,byJDBlliilan. 

Porta Capeaa (re-opened In 1J77) Is below TlIU 

the old walk of Bervliu Tnlllni. md Inilde Iha 
The baltl* ol Ih* r " 



o Oilla. the o14 



' MnthT«d,udoUurwtMe 
I HDDOrlu!, Tlw tWD brKk 
I BellwriuaerKugei. 

'Ptria 3. Poole, m the i 

uipon orRaine-, nebnlli by ueiiunnat') i" f*" 

\ of one (lemp. ClMiilIni) InBldoli.caMcil P. Oslleni* 

I t«ttoDMe*rthK 1 lo»cr leyel), -hl*h replueij 

■ »»»4ll«. 4r^Clo"« by are "he tomb^C«°nl 

I Church of at. PsuJ. A loin m the left leidi put 



' tba ah* of PiLnv-i VlUi. n 
el the Bsrgheao lnmOj. 

I inodc™hiirbi^of™on.fc« 



L to TojonlmiL, & 
I loMnnui mnt 
LB ria Prienalln 



fiom Pom BiqiilUiiii 



VlUi PamAIl-Dail 



uiei the Vllln. When I 



ret, I know /: 
PucTH at B. 



la Catallvgftrl. on the CMUV<itx\ 
g Leonine City add SI. Peter'i. 1 
Jonrhon wu entering by lh!> gale 
ISS;, when he wn> >hot by B.Cs)]: 



^ntyCeDlot.lnhUiftiB. 



ol Caitel e. An- 
e 8. Epirllo, In 





d held ont agalnn 


c Senate. The ancient town 










itt catacomb, dje- 






"p^t'Ntmen™. 1. ". ■ 


lllary dilapidated 


Idge, In the ipacloBs green 


Oampofna. Many 


nine from the dayi of aoclen 








nt tht> long jncceHionof ni 




ll> t[»^ toward, the horii 


n, no- partially 


«ergd with .now |Jannary) 








oud.. And there UalM the ( 


chanting rapoBry 


•Ion or the AJban Hil1^ which 








ID lee (or mUoi'litUe white cl 


apeliBlHteHngon 






:y in the direction of the Corw. but l> not 
cai with [t. aa the Corno li now li to 30 feet 
Ihe old Via. Itwai lined with lombt and 
like the Applan Way. Ootaldo the walli It 
Villa BiirgbeM: the ProleMant Churchj 



^VlaAppla. 



ano. It w« mad* of (qnar* i Actom the Cretoeta where the Fabil ware cut oD 
KAMA tra till tomi. tbongh by the men of Vallj then Mmm Prima Porte, or 
mOown by ti* getm ttnmi I Bua Kntan (n e<Ule4 bvm tba oelenr at th« 



Honte SS.j 

defeated Maxentlni hert^.i>. il9.6iiy\ng his 
omwnent Into tbe rlrer. The Via Clandla tnrni 
off -towards Lake Bracclano, leaving Via Flamlnia 
to turn to the north-east; at the eighth mile is the 
Villa of Kmpress Livia, whore the statue of 
Augustus (now in the Vatican) was found, and 
important excavations are in progress. 

Via Cassia was a branch of the Via Flaminia. 

•Fm Aurelia, from Porta Aurclia, or S. Pan- 
crazio, along the west coast, 

* Via Campana (or Portuensis) and *Via Ostfensis 
went to the month of ihe Tiber, and thence along 
the.coast of Latiuni. It led to Ostia^ which once 
had a population of 80,000, and now has not more 
than 50. It was ruined, first by the sea, which re- 
tires at the rate of 4 yards a year, and then by 
the Saracens and other invaders. Beyond Ostia 
was Ardea, the capital of the Rutuli, founded 
by Tumus; then Antium^ the capital of the 
Volsci, the site of Nero's House, in which the 
Apollo Belvedere and the Gladiator were found. 

Via Ardeatina^ a branph of Via Ostiensis. 



ItOOESK ROMS. 



173 



PAPAL COURT. 

The present Pope, Joachim Pecci, 8tyledLeoXITT„ 
was bom at Carpineto, 1»10, and elected vOth 
February, 1878, on the jleath of Pius IX„ to whom 
he was Camerlengo. He is 268th in the line of 
succpssion. Pio Nono lived to celebrate the 
twenty-fifth anniversary of his pontificate, or 
"make St. Peter's," as the Italians say, in 1871. 

Till the annexation to Italy, 1870, the Roman 
government was ecclesiastic and despotic. The 
council of ministers was presided over by a Secre- 
tary of State (the late Cardinal Antonelli). The 
Governor was a prelate, presiding at a municipal 
body, consisting of a Senator and Conservatore, for 
ornament. No officials were employed but such as 
went to confession and were known to be good 
Catholics. 

Under the new system, the Pope {a treated as an 
independent sovereign, wiih tlie right of sending 
and receiving envoys. H^s person is to be sacred 
and inviolable. The tupport of his establishment, 
about £1^0.000 a year, and the payment of tie 
Ionian pnl>lic debt, have been assumed by the 
government of Italy. He retains the Vatican and 
Lateran Palaces in the city, wUfe his country seat 
at Castel-Gandolfo. 

The poptUation qf Home for 1862, as derived 
from tbe report of the Cardinal Vicar, was 197,078 
TPIide up as follows:— 29 Cardinals; SH Arch- 
bishops and Bishops; 1.629 Prelates and Ordained 
Ecclesiastics; 889 Lay Ecclesiastics; 2,609 Monks; 
2.031 Nuns; 4,4fe6 Jews; 186,120 Laity, including 
Military. 

In I H88 the population was 16a600; in December, 
1^81, it was 800,600, The average death-rate 
is 26 per 1,000. 

Jn the year 1847, a Papal decree summoned an 
Assembly of Notables from the provinces, to serve 
as the foundation of a conttltntional system. On 
IHh Norembtr, 1848, Oliano«Uor Boss! was- assas- 



stni^ted, and on the f 4th, the Pope fled to OaKta. 
Rome then fell under the ffovenunent of the trium- 
virs, Mazzini, SafB, and Armellinl. Aiter a siege 
which lasted some weeks, and in which Garibaldi 
distinguished himself, Rome was taken by the 
French, in July, 1849, and the Pope was brought 
back 12th April, 1880. The city became almost 
French; 12,000 troops were quartered in the old 
palace of the Inquisition, in Ara Coeli Convent, 
and many other convents; and the Castle of S. 
Angclo was a French powder magazine. Personi| 
were not allowed to mount the tower of the Cap,\tol, 
lest some daring revolutionist should hav^ taken 
the opportunity to plant the Italian fit^g on Ita 
summit. In September, 1870, on the outbreak ol 
the Franco-German war, the Fitmeh withdrew 
their troops, and Rome was oooupied by the 
Italians as their natural heritage, and the goal of 
all their endeavours in making Italy. The tem- 
poral power of the Pope was abolished. The 
Pontifical States were annexed to the new and 
consolidated kingdom, by decree of 9tb October, 
after an almost unanimous vote of the people. 

Among the improvements eflpsoted during the 
reign of Pius IX. were the introduction of gas in 
some of the streets; the railways to Fraseati, 
Naples, and Civita Veeehla; a suspension bridge 
on the Tiber; the restoration of tbe gates, walls, 
and monuments J the new Piazza Pia, near 8*. 
Peter's; and the rebuilding of the splendid obnrch 
of St. Paul. The Pope was also very liberal in the 
purchase and distribution of antiqulttes.-^See 
Mr. Gooownt's papers on 9o«ie, In the AriMtr, 
1862-3). 

The get' eral effects of tbe former Papal rule, now 
at an end, were thus summed up by Dr. WorAi- 
worth: — '* XTneuhivated tracts of land, eve» to 
the gates of Rome ; grass growing in the streets; 
a large part of the city itself untenanted; the 
oommerce of the place lanffnlshtng ; its mari** 
time traffic represented by two or three wretched 
steamers, and three or four barges now lyinl^ in 
the port of l^ipetta; the streets swarming wHk 
beggars} an organised system of espionage; and 
the confessional Itself used as an tnstrumest of 
police," 

CHURCHES OF ROMB. 

At Rome the chief business of the place is 
religion and the observance of chureh festivals; 
and hence great prominence Is given to ita 
ecclesiastical buildings and institutions. 

There are 878 churches at Rome, besides ohapels 
and oratories: and In these will be found sources 
of interest which no other oapital in the world can 
afford. Most Catholic oountrie? have a represen- 
tative church At Rome; as S. Stanislao, for the 
Poles. Many Italian cities have them also; as 
S. Giovanni di Piormtini, for the Florentines; S. 
Crotie. for the Lucca men. Some of the largest are 
under the patronage of sovereigns: as the Lateran, 
under the French; Santa Maria Magfl^ore, under 
the Spanish. St. PapPs was formerly undec thA, 
patronage ol thia \&!c&^ <iV '^sv^^aqe^^. Vr&k> ^^^ hss* 



•CBflfc 



\u 



BBABSHAW^g iTALT. 



[Section 2« 



older are located on the Efqnlllne, CMBaa, and 
Arentine Hills. 

**The churches of Borne," says Forsjrth, "are ad- 
mirable only in detail. Their materials are rich, 
the workmanship is exquisite; the orders are 
all Greek. Every entablature is adjusted to the 
axi8<of each column with a mathematical scrupu- 
losity which is lost to the eye. One visionary 
line runs upward, bisecting superstitiously every 
shaft, tryglyph, ove, bend, dentel, mutule, modil- 
lion, and lion's head that lies in its way. But 
how are those orders employed ? In false fronts, 
In pediments, under pediments, &c." The dis- 
tribution of the parts is nearly the same in all. 
"Their aisles are generally formed by arcades. 
Over these are sometimes grated recesses, but 
never open galleries. The choir terminates in a 
curve, which is the grand field of decoration, 
blazing with leaf-gold and glories. In the middle 
of the cross is the high altar. The chapels of the 
Holy Sacrament and the Virgin are usually in the 
transept. Those of the saints are ranged on the 
aides ; and each being raised by a different family, 
has an architecture of its own at variance with the 
church, which thus loses its unity amid nests of 

Klytheism." The Church of 8. Paoli fuori le 
ura (putHde the Walls), and a few others, are 
adorned with finely stained windows. 

Some of the oldest and most remarkable churches 
are the BaiEdlicaA ; so called from being planned 
after the Roman courts of justice. That of S. Gle- 
mente, founded in the fourth and fifth centuries, 
though rebuilt 872, retains the characteristic 
atrium, or court-yard, narthex for penitents, aisles, 
and other arrangements. . The earliest churches 
tf this class are Santa Sabina, Santa Maria Mag- 
giore, 8. Pietro ad Vincula, all of the fifth century; 
with others, as in the chronological list below. 
3. Giovanni in Laterano, of the tenth century, has 
five aisles; as have St. Peter^s and St. Paul's, the 
predecessors of whcih were fourth century churches, 
the two oldest in Rome. The present St. Paul's 
was rebuilt on the old plan and scale, after 
the fire of 1823. Santa Maria sopra Minerva, 
built 1870, is the only church approaching the 
Gothic style (in the Italian sense) in Rome. 

The five patriarchal Basilicas are — St. Peter's, St. 
John Lateran, Santa Maria Maggiore, St. Paul's, 
outside the walls, and St. Lorenzo, also without 
the walls ; corresponding to the five patriarchates 
of Rome, Constantinople, Alexandria, Antioch, 
and Jerusalem, respectively. Most of the churches, 
especially the oldest, have mosaic pavements, and 
pictures in mosaic at the upper end; and all are 
rich in marbles, precious stones, paintings, and 
gilding. Little stained glass is seen, except at the 
new St. Paul's. Mosaic is peculiar to Rome and 
Florence, where it is carried on by the aid of govern- 
ment factories. Each church has relics to boast of, 
which are exposed to view on the festa of the patron 
saint. Due notice of the gtazione are given in the 
*' Diario Romano," from which, or from the Libra- 
w<9!/« a)] information about the services may be 
4f£ft/ilned. 



The Basilicas are open all day. Other churches 
are closed from 12 to 2 or 4; some are closed all the 
mek, and a few all the year, except at the/e«to. 

FBtHCIPAL CHUBCH FESTIVALS. 

F6r a partteular account of the church cere- 
monies and festivals, see chapters 4 and 5 of 
Stobt's Baha di Roma. They are now less 
numerous than formerly, especially since the 
Pope has discontinued his public visits. 

January 6th. Epiphany. — Procession to the Bam- 
bino, at Ara Coeli Church. The Exhibition of the 
Presepe (cradle) and child. 
17th. — Blessing of the Horses, at S. Antonio.' 
21st. — St. Agnese fuori le Mura. Benediction 
of the lambs, from whose wool the palliums for 
the new Archbishops are made. 

Carnival, races, Ac, about ten days before Ash 
Wednesday. Shrove Tuesday, — "Senza Moccoli*' 
illuminations in the Corso. 

March 25th. —Annunciation. Service at S. Maria 
sopra Minerva. Blessing the Golden Rose, fourth 
Sunday in Lent. 

Holy Week (Settimana Santa). 

Palm Sunday. — Distribution of consecrated 
Palms at S. Peter's. 

Wednesday. — Miterere, at the Sistino Chapel. 

Grood Friday. — Tre Ore (three hours), at most of 
the churches. Miserere, at St. Peter's. 

Saturday. — Armenian Mass at S. Biagio 
Baptism of Converts at the Lateran. 

Easter Sunday. — High Mass at St. Peter's. 

May 26th.— S. Filippo Neri; at Santa Maria in 
Yallicella, otherwise Chiesa Nuova. 

Corpus Domini (or Christi). — ^Adoration of the 
Sacrament. 

June 24th. — St. John Baptist; at the Lateran. 

28th, 29th.— SS. Peter and Patil. Papal Mass at 
St. Peter's. Visit to the Crypt. 

July 81. — S. Ignatius Loyola; at the Gesu. 

August 1. — St. Peter's chair shown at St. Pietro 
in Vincoll. 

16th. — Assumption ; at Santa Maria Maggiore. 

September 8th.— Nativity of the Virgin; at Santa 
Maria del Popolo. 

November Ist. — All Saints. Visits to the Ceme- 
teries ; especially Santa Maria in Trastevere, the 
Lateran, the Hospital of S. Spirito la Morte, in 
Via Giula, &c. Papal band at the Sistine. 

2nd.— All Souls' Day. Papal band at the Sistine. 
4th. — S. Carlo Borromeo ; at S. Carlo in Corso. 
December. — Advent Sundays. Services in the 
Sistine chapel, with the Papal band. 

25th. — Christmas. Gesu Bambino, at Santa 
Maria Maggiore. Papal Mass at St. Peter's. Ex- 
hibition of the Culla, or Cradle, at the Ara Coeli, 
and S. Francesco, till the Epiphany. 

The following is a description of the ceremonies 
as conducted prior to September, 1870. 

Holy Week. — The first ceremony is on Palm 
Sunday. **The choir," says Mendelssohn, ^'san^r 



iSUmte 32^ 



ilODSBK BOMB—OStmCfi VIESTITALS* 



175 



JIo$anna in ExodHt^ and intoned various hymna, 
While twisted palms are offered to the Pope, which 
h6 distribnteS^among the Cardinals. The palmis are 
long branches decorated with buttons, crosses, and 
crowns, all entirely made of dried palm leaves 
which make's them look like gold. The Cardinals, 
who aire seated in the chapel, in the form of a 
quadrangle, with the AW>atH at their feet, now ad- 
vance each in turn to receive their palms; then 
come the bishops, &,c. This makes a long proces- 
sion, during which the choir continues to sing un- 
remittingly. 

"The Pope's throne is then carried in, on which 
he is elevated in all processions {vide the Heliodo- 
rus of Raphael, where he is portrayed). The 
Cardinals, two and two, with their palms, head the 
procession, and the folding doors of the chapel be- 
ing thrown open, it slowly defiles through them. 
The singing which has hitherto incessantly pre- 
vailed, like an element, becomes fainter and fainter, 
for the singers also walk in the procession, and at 
length are only indistinctly heard, the sound dying 
«way in the distance. Then a choir in the chapel 
i>ursts forth with a query, to which the distant 
jone breathes a Cfl^nt response ; and so it goes on 
fax a time, till th« procession again draws near 
and the choirs reunite. LeJ; them sing how and 
what they please, this c^anojt fail tp produce a fine 
effect; and though it is quite true ^ha^fiotl)if)g can 
be more monotonous and even devoid of ;o^ thgn 
the hymns />zr uniwnOy being without any proper 
connection and sung fortissimo throughout, still I 
Appeal to t\iB impression that as a whole it must 
make on everyone. After the procession returns, 
the Gk>spel is chanted in the most singular tone 
And is succeeded by the Mass." 

There is nothing oa Monday or Tuesday; but 
OB Wednesday^ a/L 4-39, (the Noctums begin with 
the aatiphoa, Zelus Domus tuse. Each Noctuni 
(says the little Manual of Offices for Holy Week) 
contains three Psalms, signifying that Christ died 
for all, and also symbolical of the three laws, the 
natural, written, and evangelical. The Domine 
labia mea and the Deus in adjutorivm are not sung 
on this occasion, when the death of our Saviour and 
Master is deplored, as slain by the hands of wicked, 
godless men. The fifteen lights which are ex- 
tinguished in succession represent the Twelve 
Apostles and the Three Maries. 

"The Psalms, beginning with the 68th, 69th, and 
70th. are chanted /of<i««mo, in alternate verses by 
two male choirs, though invariably by one class of 
voices, basses, or tenors. You cannot conceive how 
tiresome and monotonous the effect is, and how 
harshly and mechanically they chant through the 
Psalms. They sing with the accent of a number 
of men quarrelling violently, and as if they w^ero 
shouting out furiously one against another. 

"During this time the lights on the altar are all 
extinguished, save one which is behind the altar. 
Six wax candles still continue to bum high above 
the entrance; the rest of the space is already dim; 
mod now the whole choir intone wnitono with the 



full strength of their voicei. the CiMiiHewnZcKharim 
Ih D minor, singing it slowly and solemnly, during 
which the last remaining lights are extinguished. 
The mighty swelling chorus in the deepening gloom 
and the solemn vibration of so many voices have a 
wonderfully fine effect. At the close all is pro- 
found darkness. An antiphon begins on the sen- 
tence, *Now he that betrayed him gave,* &c., and 
continues to the words, *That same is he,* Ao. 
Then the Pope leaves his throne and kneels before 
the altar; all present fall on their knees, and one 
solitary voice softly sings, Christus foetus est pro 
nobis obediens tuque ad mortem. On Thursday is 
added, Mortem autem cruds. On Grood Friday, 
Propter quod et Deus exaltavit illum^ et dedit Uli 
nomen, quod est super omne nomen. 

" A pause ensues, during which each person re- 
peats the Pater Noster to himself. A death-like 
silence prevails in the church. Presently the 
Miserere commences with a chord, softly breathed 
by the voices, and gradually branching off into two 
choirs. This beginning, and its first harmonious 
vibration, certainly made the deepest impression 
on me. For an hour and a half previously, one 
voice alone had been heai-d chanting almost with- 
out any variety. After the pause comes an ad- 
mirably constructed chord, which has the finest 
possible effect, causing every one to feel in their 
hearts the power of music. It is this indeed that 
is sp striking. The best voices are reserved for the 
^sefe^e ^(£fain|'s), w^icl} is sung with the greatest 
variety of effecjt ; tlje voices sy^lMfig apd dying 
away, from the softest |)ta»o to' the full strength 
of the choir. ' x^o wonder that it snould excite deep 
emo.tion in every heart. 

"A second short silent prayer ei^sues, when all 
the cardinals scrape tl^eir f «et qoisily op ti^Q groundt 
which betokens the close of tl)e ceremony. This 
noise (says the Manual) is symbolical of the tumult 
made by the Hebreyrs in seizing Christ. It may 
be so, but it sounds exactly like the commotion in 
the pit of a theatre, when a play is delayed or 
finally condemned. The single taper still burning 
is then brought from behind the altar, and all 
silently disperse by its solitary light. I must not 
omit to mention the striking effect of the blazing 
chandelier lighting up the great vestibule, when 
the cardinals and their attendant priests traverse 
the illuminated Quirinal, through ranks of Swiss 
guards.**— 'Meni>elssohn*s Letters. 

On Thursday, at 9 in the morning, the solemnities 
recommence, and last till 1. There is high mass at 
10 30. At the Gloria in Excelsis, the choirs burst 
in, and all the bells in Rome peal forth, and are 
not rung again till after Good Friday, the hours 
for that interval being marked in the churches by 
wooden clappers. Afterwards there is a proces- 
sion, when the Pope is borne aloft in his state 
chair, and confers his benediction from the Loggia 
of the Quirinal. Re then washes the feet of tliir- 
teen priests, who arc supposed to represent the pil- 
grims, and are seated in a row, wearing white 
gowns and white cajw, and wha «Xt«c«^x'4^ -^^jssssk 



176 



BBADBHAW^S ITALY< 



tSection S. 



to|MUMr. iThepMlmsbAfflii again in thgftfteniooo, 
Iwowed by the Ijamantatloiia, Leasona, and tbe 
JAmtwv, aeareely dilliBrlng from thoae of Wednea- 
day. 

On Good Friday morning the chapel is strij^d 
of every decoration, the altar nncovered, and the 
Pope and Cardinals af^ar in noouming. **The 
history of the Passion, according to St. John, is 
chanted after an established formula. The whole 
appeared to me tririal and monotonous. Prayers 
are then offered up for all nations and institutions, 
each separately designated. When the fn-ayer for 
the Jews (7Vo perfidU Judteit) is uttered, no one 
kneels, as they do at all the others, nor is 'Amen' 
said. Then follows the Adoration of the Cross. A 
small crucifix is placed in the centre of the chapel, 
and the Pope and all, taking off their shoes, ap- 

g*oach and kiss it. During this the Improperta of 
alestrina is sung: one of his finest works, and 
they sing it with remarkable enthusiasm. The 
ceremony is very solemn and dignified, and the 
most profound silence reigns in the chapel. They 
sing the oft-recurring Greek * Holy' (Af^» Theos, 
Sancttu Detu) in the most admirable manner, each 
time, with the same smoothness and expression. 
This is repeated again till all in the chapel have 
performed the ceremony of adoration. I qidte 
understand why the Impropericu produced the 
strongest effect on Goethe, for they are nei^ly the 
most faultless of all ; as both muslo and ceremonies, 
and everjrthing connected with them, are In the 
most entire harmony.'*— if^iuis^uoAfi. 

A procession follows, to fetch the Host, wliich 
has oecn exposed and adored on the previous 
evening in another chapel of the Quirinal, lighted 
up by many hundred wax lights. The mom^ig 
■orvloe closes at \ 80, with a hymn in eoato M^' 
At 8 80, the first noctum begins, with the Psalms, 
Lessons, and Miaerere^ as before mentioned. 

Early on Saturday, in the Baptistery of the 
Lateran, Heathens, Jews, and MohammedaQS are 
baptised, all represented by a '^« oktNIi and, 
•ubse<iuently, some yonng pnesis receive eonse^a- 
tion for the first time. 

UST OF SOKE OFTBE OLDEST ORlTROBEft. 

A.V. 

8. Peter's (old one) founded about 880 

8. Paul's (rebuilt 1824 to 1854) 886 

Banta Sabina about 485 

Santa Maria Maggiore about 482 

8. Pietro ad Vinoula 442 

8. Lorenzo f nor i le Mora 580 

8anta Balbina 800 

8anta Agnese about 825 

Quattro Coronati about 625 

8. Giorgio in Velabro 682 

8. Crlnogono 730 

8. Giovanni a Porta Latina about 790 

Santa Maria in Cosmedin « 790 

8. Vicenzo alle Tre Fontane 790 

8. Lorenzo in Lucina about 790 

^Sff, ^0r0o e Acbi}}eo. about 800 

S.J*nu0ede ,„„ ,/„ .,„,„„' , ," 820 



8antA Maria in Dominiea ...,.a 69t 

8. Martino at Monti about 844-^ 

8. Clementa 87S 

S. Niccolb in Carcere .*. 900 

S. Bartolommeo in Isola about 900 

8. Giovanni in Laterano (St. John £v.) 910 

Santa Maria in Trastevere IISS 

SanuCroce about 1144 

Santa Maria in Ara Cosli — — • 

Santa Maria sopra Minerva (Gothic)... about 1870 

S.Agostino about 1480 

ST. PETER'S. 

Bt. Peter^s Church, the largest Christian templ« 
in the world, is on the Vatican Hill, on the site 
of Nero's Circus, where many early Chrtstiana 
snflbred martyrdom, and where Omstantine bmilt 
the first church (about 880), which stood till tka 
twelfth century. Except a few feet tn tbe weafc 
front, of a large and splendid design, eoia m e n eed, 
1454, by Nicholas V., the preaent Bastlloa waa 
begun, 1506, by Julius II., as part of a Qreek 
cross proposed bv Bbramavte. His design (which 
is eopied in Raphaers cartoon of Paul preaclitnff 
at Athens) was followed out in 1547 by M. Angele^ 
who worked eighteen years at it, and waa s«». 
oeeded by Ylgnola, Delia Porta, and 0. ll»Aeiiioi» 
by whom the original plan was alteired to that of 
a Latin cross, in order to take In thie site <^ Oon- 
stantine's old church. The frcwt was completed. 
1622, by Paul V. Thw tlie building of It ooTefred 
a space of 116 yean* and the reigns of e lghte eai 
Popes, one of iFliom was Leo X., wlicHe sciioia 
of rMshUg money for the work by the sale ot tMd«I> 
ge^^ea produced the Reformat|oii« Tlw total eoet 
was 40,000,000 erowna, or £8i,0t0«ee8 Bterttac; and 
the annual charg« of keeptaig tt ipt la ao,800 erowna. 

The style is the etassteal, which praralls te 
all the ohnrehea l^ere, tn three storeys, ent up by 
enonno^M pilasters and oolmnnsof equal helglit all 
round. Both ohureh and enpola are of travarttea 
stone; and it is said there is mora sttma below 
mnnd than above It. Inside length of tlie «roM» 
§15 feet, or one-seventh more than e«r 8t. ^anTfe; 
breadth through the tnms«pt, 448 fset. Hetgtt 
from piacca to top of CBtaa, 4PM feet. Its priaelpal 
front (which looks to the east and aot to the ml) 
is plain, and only tmpotiag bv its slae, whieh la 810 
feet wide, 148 high, and, aafortunately, hides the 
view of the dome. This t>ad elR»ot is increased by 
the slopiag down of the ground in front. It if aot 
shut in by honsea, but approadied by a oirenlar 
atrium^ or court, 740f eet by 590, enclosed by odUm* 
nadra resting on 284 columns, in four rows, tomdajf 
thre«* alleys between them, and crowned with siataea 
and saints, by Bernini. In the middle Is the Egy]^ 
tian ObeHA (see above), brongnt trom the Ctrt«i 
of Nero, by D. Fontana, which serves as a gigantic 
gnomon, and is surrounded by points of the oompasi 
on the ground below. It Is flanked by C. Madenio*a 
two tall Fountidns, 50 feet hl^h, eadi oompoaed of 
three baalna, the loweat 80 feat dSamatar. Tlia 
water rises to fbe helflfht tif TOfaat, fdnhgthitRiflii 



Route 32.] 



UOBERN ROME^ST. PETERS. 



177 



in a continual mist from basin to basin. They are 
supplied by an aqnediict from Lake Bracciano, 17 
miles distant. Between them, and in line with 
the centre of the obelisk, arc the two centres of 
the colonnades, standing at which all the columns 
appear in line. The colonnades are joined by open 
corridors, 306 feet long, to the front of the church, 
not parallel to each other, but sloping outwards as 
they approach it ; and the whole distance from the 
ends of the colonnades to the church is 900 feet. 

At the bottom of the steps are two modern 
statues of St. Peter and St. Paul, replacing those 
now in the sacristy. Over the fa9ade are Christ 
and his Apostles; and two clocks, divided by the 
Italian way of reckoning time, i.e., into twenty- 
four hours from sunset to sunset. Three principal 
doors and two lesser ones, of bronze, covered with 
bas-reliefs, opien into the Vestibule, opposite as 
many more opening into the chui'ch. One of 
them, the Porta Santa, is opened only at the 
Jubilee, every twenty- five years ; as for example, 
in the year 1865. The Vestibule is about 470 
feet long by 50 feet deep, and has equestrian statues 
of Charlemagne (by Comacchini) and Constantine 
(by Bernini). The door on the right hand is near 
the entrance to the Scala Regia, in the Vatican 
Palace a^oining, by an inclined plane. Over the 
middle door is a copy of Giotto's Navlcella or Bark 
of St. Peter (1296). 

The interior is so well proportioned as to disap- 
point the spectator at first glance, but it enlarges 
at every visit until the eye gets used to the 
details; when 

"thy mind, 
Expanded by the geoivs of the spot. 
Has grown coloesal."— Ayron. 

Two small-looking Cherubs holding the holy- 
water basin are 6 feet high; and other figures 
which appear only life-size are equally large. 
The pen of St. Mark, in the great dome, is 5 feet 
long. This dome and ten smaller cupolas in the 
aisles and transept let in the light. The tempera 
ture is remarkably equal all the year through. 

" The building surpasses all powers of descrip- 
tion. It appears to me like some great work of 
nature — a forest, a mass of rocks, or something 
similar ; for I never can realise the idea that it is 
the work of man. You strive to distinguish the 
ceiling as little as the canopy of heaven. Tou 
lose your way In St. Peter's ; you take a walk in 
it, and ramble till you are quite tired. When 
Divine service is performed and chanted there, 
you are not aware of it, till you come quite close. 
The angels in the Baptistery are monstrous giants; 
the doves, colossal birds of prey. You lose all 
idea of measurement with the eye, or proportion ; 
and yet, who does not feel his heart expand, when 
standing under the dome, and gazing up at it. I 
went to the very farthest end, whence there was, 
indeed, a wonderful coup cToeil. When the music 
commences, the sounds do not reach you for a long 
time, but echo and float in the vast space, so that 
the most singular and vague hannonies are borm 
towards joxL^^MemUiioAn, 
N 



There are three aisles; the middle one bcin^ 87 
feet broad, and 153 feet high to the top of the 
vault; which is enriched with sunk panellhig, 
gilding, and figures, copied from the Basilica of 
Constantine. Four arches, 40 feet wide, run down 
each side of this aisle, with piers faced by pUasterf, 
and niches, medallions, and arms of Popes. Two 
Virtues over the round of each arch are 15 feet 
high. 

The great Cupola is double, with a staircuse 
between the inner and outer shell, for ascending 
it. The diameters of this 'Wast and wondrous 
dome " are 139 and 195 feet. From the masble 
pavement to the top of the romid inside is 333 f««tt 
or 448 feet clear to the highest point. Around it 
is the text, Tu es Petrv*^ et super banc Petram^ ^., 
each letter being the height of a man. It is 
adorned with saints in mosaic, and is lighted frpm 
above and from the altar below. In the lantern ip 
a mosaic of God the Father. "There is a sifi- 
pHcity and grandeur about the roof of the nave 
which goes far to redeem the bad taste of ttie 
arches which support it ; and the four great vaults 
of the nave,, transepts, and choir, opening in.^ a 
dome of the dimensions and beauty of proporliefl 
of that of St. Peter's, form together one of tliiiK^ 
most sublime architectural concept ic us that the^ 
world has yet seen, and one worthy of the princl^ 
pal temple of the Christian religion."— /fcr^MWOw. * 

Seven steps lead to the High Altar^ which is 8d 
feet high, under a bronze canopy, or baldacohhio, 
on spiral columns, 95 feet high, made from metal 
taken from the Pantheon, the gilding of which 
cost 40,000 scudi. About ninety lamps are always 
burning here and at the tomb, or chapel (by C. 
Mademo), beneath the pavement, in which halves 
of the bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul are 
deposited. The other halves are at St. Paul's, 
and their heads are at the Lateran. Canova's 
kneeling statue of Pius VI. is seen in this chapel. 
On Good Friday, the church is darkened, leaving 
only a few lamps burning under the dome, with 
great effect. Near the last pier of the aisle, on 
the right, is a statue of St. Peter, a work of about 
the fifth century (some say it is a statue of Jupiter), 
with the foot almost worn away, through frequent 
kissing. It used to be kissed by the Pope every 
Friday in Lent. 

As many as 134 Popes are buried in St. Peter's ; 
and the ornaments in mosaic, marble, and bronze, 
in the chapels of this great basilica are endless. 
Many of the mosaics, which are so well done as to 
look like paintings, are copied from originals in 
the Vatican, the cost of each being about £6,000. 

Beginning on the right of the entrance, the 
chapels, altars, and objects of notice are as follow : 

Pieth Chapei. — M. Angelo's celebrated marble 
group of the Virgin holding the Dead Christ on 
her knees, called a *Pietli. 

Lanfranco's fresco of the Triumph of the Cro<v. 
Monuments of Leo XII. (by Fahtte.\ *sssk Qg^^f^ 



179 



BBADfiHAW'a ITJaT. 



[SectUn t. 



. Sebattian C^iieJ.— Mosaic of Domenichino*8 Mar- 
tyrdom of St. Sebastian. 

Tombs of Innocent XII. (by Delle Valle) and 
the famous Countess Matilda (by Bernini). She is 
Dante^s Urania, who bequeathed the Marches, Ac, 
ib the Church. 

Sacrament Chapel (closed by a gate). — P. daCor- 
toua*s fresco of the Trinity, and Caravi^gio^s 
Entombment. Tomb of Sixtus lY. (by Polla- 
Juolo), who built the Ponte Sisto, Sistine Chapel, 
Ac. Tomb of Julius II., nephew of Sixtus, only a 
simple stone, though his intention was to have 
erected a splendid tomb for himself, out of which 
thought grew the new Church of St. Peter's. 
Mofsaic by Muziano. Monument of Gregorv XIII. 
(by RuBConi), who built the Quirinal ; and (jTregory 
XIV., who was Pope only for six months. 

Oregorian Chapel. — Tombs of Gregory XVI. (by 
Amici); Delia Portals rich Altar, from M.Angelo's 
design.' 

Near hear is Domeniohino's mosaic of the Com- 
munion of St. Jeronw. 

Mass of St. Basil, near the Tomb of Benedict 
XIV., by Braccl. 

The North Transept was the place where the 
(Ecumenical Council was hold. It contains 
mosaics of Valentinrs Martj^om of SS. Proeasao 
e Martiniano, Caroselli's St. Wenceslaus, and 
Poussin's Martyrdom of St. Erasmus. 

The prolongation of the aisle contains Lan- 
f ranco's St. Peter Wal king on the Sea, and Canova's 
Tomb of ^Clement XIII., with figures of Religion 
and Genius, and two Lions, which occupied liim 
eight years. 

a. Michad CAo^ie;.— Mosaic of Guide's St. Michael 
the Archangel. Near by are Guercino's mosaic of 
Santa Petronella, one of the best in the church, 
and the Tomb of Clement X. 

as. Peter and TaMtha CAajMl.— Mosaic of Cot- 
tanei's Raising of Tabltha by Peter. 

Upper end of Ohurth.—'ilL. Angelo*8 Tribune of 
St. Peter; and Bernini's gilt bronze chair of St. 
Peter, enclosing a more ancient wooden chair siq>- 

Sorted by four doctors of the church. These are 
S. Gregory, Augustine, Ambrose, and Jerome. 
The chair was last shown'in 1867, but photos can 
be bought in any shop. Delia Porta's tomb of Paul 
III., with a bronze of the Pope, and marble figrures 
of Justice and Prudence. The former was naked 
at first and was so much admired that Bernini was 
employed to coyer her with a tin robe. Bernini's 
tomb of Urban VIII., with figures of Justice and 
Charity. Mosaic portrait of Pio None, placed here 
in 1871, on the comidetion of the 25th year of his 
Pontificate, " the year of St. Peter." 

Entering the west division of the left aisle, there 
is on the right the Tomb of Alexander YIII. (by 
Rossi), who pronounced the bull, Inter mtdtipUcee^ 
against the French clergy, on his death-bed, 1612. 
Opposite, Bt. Peter Healing the Cripple, after 
Mancini. 
.^/artif-lM HU fffvol.— Algacdils;bas-reUef of 

t^^/i^^fta c:%qtf^^Mneb rwnJMi BX»,\!M of tfa« 



Virgin. Sareonlitgiii oontalniag the remaini of 
Leo IL, Leo lu., and Leo IV. 

In the next chapel are the Tomb of Alexander 
VII., with gUt copper statuot Ify Bernini, tn4 
Vanni's Simon Magus, on slate. 

In the South Transept are Camuccini's mosaic 
of the Unbelief of St. Thomas, the Tomb of Pales- 
triua, Crucifixion of St. Peter (Guide Reni), axid 
St Francis (Domenichino). Near here, in the 
left aisle, is the door of the Sacristy (see below). 
Opposite is lloncalli's Ananias and Sapphira. * 

Continuing down the aisle, the ClemtntifM ChapA 
is entered. This contains the Tomb of Gregory 
the Great, A. Sacchi's mosaic of the Miracle of St. 
Gregory, and Thorwaldsen's Tomb of Pius VIl., 
with figures of Strength and Wisdom. Near here 
are the Tombs of Innocent XI. and Leo XI. (in- 
scribed "Sic floruit")i who was Pope for twenty- 
seven days only. 

Chair Chapei^ closed by Delia Porta's gilt bron;|« 
gate. 

Tombs of Pius VIII. and Innooent VIII. ; the 
latter by Pollajuolo. 

Pretentation CStopsl.— Mosaics, by Romanelli and 
Maratta. 

Stuart fbm&«.— Erected at the cost of George 
IV. ; including the Pretender, styled "James III.** 
and his two sons, the Chevalier, "Charles III.,** 
and Cardinal York, "Henry IX.'* They are by 
Canova, and were naked figures at first, but were 
covered in 1850. Bracci's ^mb of the Chevalier's 
widow, Maria Sobieski, Countess of Albany. 

Baptistery (left of the entrance). — ^Three mosaics, 
by C. Maratta, Ac. The font is a porphyry vaae, 
which covered the sarcophagus of Otho II. (who 
died 974), with ornaments added by C. Fontana, 
1698. In the right-hand comer as you enter, 
within rails and kept under lock and key, you read 
" JSKc est Ula CSo/uowa"— the column against which 
Cbrist leant in the Temple when teaching; the gift 
of Cardinal Orsini. Similar relics abound in every 
church in Rome. Here, in St. Peter's, over tlM 
statue of St. Helena, is ^'Partem crude quam^^'' Ae. 
(part of the true cross). Over S. Longinus Martyr 
is '^Longini lanceam;'^ the spear which pierc ed th e 
Redeemer's side, sent by Bajazet to Innocent VIII. 
Over St. Andrew— "5. .4fidrte Caput,'' his head, 
the gift of Pius II. His ribs are at Santa Maria In 
Campitelli; his leg is at SS. Apostoli. Over Santa 
Veronica, the so-called "portrait" of the Saviour, 
on the napkin, or handkerchief with which his face 
was wiped. A supposed portrait of Christ ib shown 
only by the Pope; others are exhibited at 8. 811- 
vestro al Quirinale and 8. Maria Trastevere. 

Sacristy, built by Pius VI. (1776), from designs by 
C . Marchionne, in three parts. At the entrance are 
statues of St. Peter and St. Paul, from the Piazza 
outside. In the central chapel is a guide; 
fee, i franc. Paintings of the Virgin and Sainta, 
by G. Romano, &c. Old frescoes, by M. di Forli 
(1472), and three paintings by Giotto. The carved 
wooden presses are full of riclt robes, vestmentai 
altaT'ClothiL p^ate, ^., Charlemagne*8 coronatiea 
robe, cruoluxes^ salvers and cnptt deeSyoed by H* 



Route 82.] 



MODERN ROMS — 8T. PBTER'S. 



179 



Angelo and B. Cellini ; a cup given by the iStaarts; 
and the seal ring of the last Pope, a new one being 
tnade for each. 

The Or^t (Sagre G-rotteVaticane) comprises the 
Grotte Vecchie (i.oi bhown , and Nuove, in a space 
11 feet high, between the pavements of the old 
and new church, to which women are not 
Udmitted; ana fuiu* Chapels, adorned with mosaics 
by A. .sacchi. I'ermission t > be obtained .«t the 
Sacristy, tee, \ franc. In the Grotto Vecchie 
ftre tombs of Otho II., Charlotte 11. of Jem- 
ealem and Cyprus, Christina of S\^edcn, Adritm 
IV., Boniface Vlll., Nicholas V., Urban VI., I'ius 
II.; and an ancient carved sarcophagus of Bassus, 
Prefect of Rome, who died 359. 

To ascend the Dome, open every day, 8 to 11. 
The ascent is made by three galleries of 142 steps 
Inside the cupola, between tlio outer and inner 
walls, which are 20 feet apart. The bronze ball at 
top holds several persons, and is 7^ feet diameter. 
Among the inscriptions by sovereigns and other 
personages, one records the ascent of the Prince of 
Wales in 1859. In 1760, two Spanish monks were 
up here dm*ing the shock of an earthtiuake, when 
one died from sheer fright. The cross is 13 feet 
high. Waterton. the traveller, with his friend Cap- 
tain Jones, mounted to the top of the cross, and left a 
glove at the end of the conductor as a memorial of 
their visit. The view from the dome is extensive 
and magniticent, embracing the cit3^ river, Cam- 
pagna, the sea, ttie Alban Hills, and the Apeimines. 

On the flat roof of the cathedral live the San 
Petrini, or workmen, who look after the edifice, and 
form a corporation from fatlier to son. In one of 
the chambers in the piers of the dome is Sangallo's 
model of the basilica, which included a splendid 
facade, a more lofty dome, and two spires to 
match it in height. 

. The exterior of St. Peter's should next be ex- 
amined all roimd. The west end is 162 feet high, 
composed of a gigantic order of Corinthian pilasters, 
108 feet high, on a base of 15 feet, with an attic of 
89 feet. The acanthus leaves of tiie capitals are 7 
feet Iiigh. Tliis order is repeated all round the 
building. There are 748 columns and pilasters 
inside and outside, and it contains 390 statues, of 
yarious degrees of merit. 

"Between these pilasters there are always at 
least two storeys of windows, the dressings of wliich 
are generally in the most obtrusive and worst taste, 
and there is still a third storey in the attic; all of 
which added together make us feel more inclined 
to think that the architect has been designing a 
place of several storeys on a gigantic scale, and 
trying to give it dignity by making it look like a 
temple, rather than that what we see before us is 
really a great basilican hall degraded by the adop- 
tion of palatial architecture."— /Vrsri^son. 

Good points for viewing St. Peter's at a distance 
in the city are, the tower of the Capitol, open daily, 
for i a lira; the front of the Quirinal, the Bridge 
of St. Angelo; the fields behind St. Peter's; but the 
beat of allf seen through a deep blue sky and clear 
atmosphere, is from the public walks on the Pincian 



Hill. It may sometimes be caught sight of bf 
ships at sea, sailing down the coast. 

At the west end, on the north side of the altar, 
are slabs in the wall, comihemorating the Decree 
of 8th December, 1854, when the new Dogma of the 
IiiimHculate Conception was propagated to '^satisfy 
the longings of the Catliolic world," with the namei 
of the prelates who were present. Father Passagiia, 
a learned Jesuit, who was chosen to write in de- 
fence of the new dogma, is the same, who, having 
afterwards written against the temporal power, 
had his paper seized by the Inquisition, but 
fortunately escaped from Rome by the help of some 
English friends, and then resided at Turin, where 
he edited a journal, which became the organ of 
a large number of priests who were opposed to the 
temporal power. 

Here the ceremony of the Canonisation of the 
twenty-seven Japanese martyrs, who died at 
Nagasaki, 5th February, 1597, was attended by 
nearly 300 cardhials and prelates, and 3,000 clergy, 
in 1862, on Whit Sunday. The expense, 40,000 
scudi, was borne by the Franciscans, to whose order 
they belonged; it included 37,0001bs. of wax candles 
for illuminating the church. Medals were struck, 
on which Religion, with the cross, palm, tUi'a, and 
keys, looks to twenty-seven stars hi hea^n, with 
the motto, " Sanctorum mater quos dat nova sidera 
cielo." St. Peter's was ornamented in a somewhat 
tawdry style, having the pilasters covered with 
coloured paper, and tiie arches with silk and velvet, 
and hung with hasty frescoes of the sufferings of 
themaitvrs. Pasquin said of this display of up- 
holstery, that the Pope was going to leave, and had 
already packed up St. Peter's (ha imballato S. 
Pictro). 

Ar the time of the canonisation, the Procurator 
knelt before the Pope, entrcathig liim eaniestly — 
instanter — to con.ply with the wishes of the Church 
and to canonise the martyrs. But the intimation 
from above— the inspiration of the Iloly Ghost— 
had not yet been received. "They must pray again 
for it. The Procm*ator must kneel again before 
the Pope and reiterate his entreaty, earnestly and 
more earnestly— »/««/ante»* et instantius. But still 
the petition is not granted; he must wait longer 
and must pray again. Then the Pontil! himself 
Inv-kesthe Holy Spirit; he intones 'Veni Creator 
Spiritus.' The Procurator repeated his petition for 
the third time, earnestly, more eaniestly, and most 
earnestly — instanter, instantius, et instantissimi^ 
that tlie martyrs may be enrolled by the Pope in 
the catalogue of the saints, and venerated as such 
by all the faithful of Christ. Then, at length, the 
Roman Pontiff, having his mitre on his head, and 
Sitting on his throne at the west end of the chiu'ch, 
with long lines of cardinals, archbishops, and 
bishops, ranged on his right hand and on his left, 
pronounced the memorable words, *Beatos (here he 
recited the names of the miiit.Nrs), sanctos esse 
decernimus et definimus, ac sanctorum calalogo 
adscribimus, statuoites ab Ecclesift Universali 
eomm memortam annuo die ^at^ssbw "v^afcaa^^ '^^ 



BSlJtBIUW'S HALT. 



SptrllAi 8iuictl. Aiueii.' H«tb> 

Dr. WantuKrlh. 

lUuminaliim of SI. Feter'i on BiHlir SuiiAni,— "A 
beautiful tight it provcfl, the dlWanco BL.lng b 
f.lTyliko uppearimcs to the church. Every lh.0 of 

looked like lluei ct >)ilnlDK silver. The facade. 

lighted grBdmlly. thongh mmshnndied menite 
>trtte elght."thB wWM 'light wai inddenly ei- 
whlch In s i-ew leconds coverad the "tale bnildlng 



[Section % 

KHueeilon on hie aleetlon. Hs li hers Blebop^ 
inmate of It^y. and patriarch of the WertT^^ 



precedence In point ot lanotlty ot St. Peler'a. ThB 

were held here. The present large church w«« 
l>egun bv Plus FT., aud United by Clemeut ZIL 
An Inicrlption. endhig wllh "omnlnm nrbl* et orbit 



ful eflfact, which li certainly on 









Is too high and the (standing) figuTM It >ii|i(>inta 
too large; but itiiontlie whole, aplctnreiaiu 
I Imposing piece of archltectora] dacoiatutOi 



hrlitl, or Curpns I>oiulni, 



Line been alvolde 
Themagnlflcem 



ouldwlthdiSonlt; 



ire by GUttlo, on the aeccnd pillar to the right, 
face VIII. procl^med the Jubilee of ItOO^ 
le being present. Hera Ihe Pope gnre Ma 
ling on Ascension Dair. In Ihe nlcliEa (flanked 



la hy St. Tbomae Aquinas, beginning: 



BT. JOHN LATB£A!T. 



c Cornlnl Chape 


, bollt by A 

Ido, alThe al 
in a porphyry 


Oalllcl. for 
drea Gorrinl, 

™i and tbe 
aarcopfcagna, 




are tbe head! of SI. Petv 
ar it Is thfl bronie tomb of 
Bccnl aliar of ibe St. Saua- 
tffoMA by broDje fUluf, 



Hante 33.3 uodibn kohb— it. Jobs lATEft^x, i 

uld lobe from theTempleof JuplterCapltollniu, I cblef bail 
OraTMotA.SaMhiuidCaTiliereii'ArplnolCHuul), and the pi 
■Idabyelde. Bronieof Ilenry IV.of ITance, In Ibe Poundedi 

KrtlcDOtailtaaV. TboTorlonlaChapel.bulltin Baslllca.c 
SO, li all marble and gilding. The cloister, nf i the plan i 
the thlrteBitb Oditury, la belnn rejlorod. , was In An 

Tba BaptlUery of Conitantine li an octagon, ti recanttrui 
f««tdUnnt«r.llieroi>tofwhicbl»tnpponed,inlem- , Notice Ihi 
ally- br eight colDmne of red porphyry, standing i preaorred. 

ol gien bualt. "LUw all ConsUnlino'i worki, end. tbo b 

IWri Ot antlqnitr- Bnill In an age when conyert. Siitn^V, 



blends t 



with lb 



ta eonk below tba paTCmentH anil lar^o enough for middle one of lis five doors, tbe Fope blea* 
the total Immerrion of adults." — (Forayth.) It was tbe peopla on Aaaamption Day, Then la al 
■Ibd meant for atomb. An Inscrlptk ~ -^^-^-.i.-- - ^_._. _* ..,...,_ ., o__._ rt.,.. . . 



ia really baptised la 



» SylTMMr, (SCO fei 



lUp of Bpaln, T) 

.00 broad) ii composed of Ihraa 













fifth century. The eelllng wae gill with tb* Srit 


Roman Catholic irHters ; Indeed, as Bishop Words- 


anpply of gold which came from America to the 


worth obserree. If the Coniregallon of the Inquisi- 
tion were to apply some of tbelr Industry and zeal 


Spanish court, and waa regilt In 1821 ; It waa de- 


signed by a. Bangallo. Notice tbe tombs of 


to the laakof cotnpilbigan Index ExpurgatorlnB of 


Clement IX. and Nicholas IV.. by Guide and 






churches, and altars of Bome. they minld confer s 




gnai benefit OD chnrcb hlBtury and the cause of 


canopy, by Pnga, with marble angels. Here Plna 


religion. They pretend to show here, pUlara frem 


IX. Is burled. In a aplendid Crypt, hoill in 


the Temple, the Well ol Samaria (In the garden). 


honour of the Assumption, adomsd with marble, 


aod the «IV 7!iU( Dsed at Ibe Last Supper. The 


gilding, lapis Uiull, and other precious stones. 
Near it is the Blatlne Chapel of the Holy Sacra- 


p^.tog>^ot^ the^cupoU^^by^A^aaeeW^ An 

e£pefi."ltleadsto'be'£hspelBotS.Ve'nanilQand 
ofit. John the Baptist. In the latter la a bronze 


Isrge' enough for a cbureh. Notice the tombs oi 
Bi.iBS V, and Plus v.. and tbe rlchly-omamented 


copy of Donalello's ilatno of Cbrtat. 


Prtaeplo and Borghess chapels. The formsr bM 


The %eH». Banta, or Holy Stairs, on tbe north, 
orpulace side ofthe^nreb, and detached fromlt. is 

MTer d with wood to preserve them), said lo haie 


Cbrlst-s cradle, and tbe latter hae the tombi of 
Clement YIII., Paul V., and tbe bite Prlueeia Bor- 
gbeae (Lady 0. Talbot). The alUr of tbe Virgin 
rests on tour pillars of Oriental laaper, agate, and 
gilt br^se. Her mlrsoulous picture (said lo ba 



■ St" Luke when be waa IweWe years old) In tbe ;^' '" ,'? 
Dcta Binctomm at lbs top, They desecnrt bj; '( "nlpaW 



If a mosaic represent- | 
t, where the church 

la, !ic. June M, or I 



The Chape! of Santa Lncla con 



et. John tbe Baptist's 

SANTA lUBIA lUOOIOBS, 

aPluia dl Banta lUrU Uaggiore, on the Esgnl- I thlrty- 
*, n«r the railway tenDlnm. One of Ibe to— ' ■" — 



font I tor«»T«a«<A<«n«A«,<v\'ft«lf!a™*'*-"''^™'*' 



182 



fi&ADSUAW^M ITALT. 



[Section 9« 



one design, and bear a moet pleating proportion to 
the tnperitrttetnre. The elereitory, too, it orna- 
mented with pilastert and panels, so as to make it 
a p9.rt of the general design; and with t)io rouf, 
which is panelled with constructive propriety and 
flmplicity, coiiibiiiod witli sufficient richness, serves 
to nialce up n whole, giving a far better and more 
complete idea of what a basilica cither was origi- 
nally, or at least might have been, than any oilier 
church at Uouie.''—Fergu$wn. 

*8. PAOLO FUORI IE MURA. 

A basilica, outside Porta fl. Paola and the Pro- 
testant Cemetery, on the road to OHtia. This is a 
large and handsome new church, opened in 1847, 
on an uninhabited spot, to inarlc tlie site of a 
renerable and interesting? one, burnt in 1823. and 
Arst founded by Constantino, over the gi-avo of St. 
Paul. The great cloclc tower is in the Lombard 
itvle, and cost 120,000 scudi. The present splendid 
edifice, which was rebuilt under Pio Nono's eye, 
(and who was to have been hurled Iiere), is 
400 feet lonp, exclusive of the atrium in front, 
and is divided into five aisles, by eighty noble 
pillars of Baveno marble and granite, in single 
bloclis, of wlilch two support an arch over the 
altar, dedicated to the siHtcr of Honorius, wlio 
completed the former charch, imd whose doHign 
has been copied in the present one, which contains 
also copies of the old mosaics, by Giotto's pupils. 
The front is a copy of the former one, and will 
eontain a great mosaic, to cost 30,000 scudi. The 
timber roof is richly carved and gilt. There are 
no side chapels. The friezes in the nave are oma- 
ment<'d with mosaic heads of all the popes, chiefly 
modem, from tlie government studio, but some are 
ancient. The alabaster j)niars of the high altar 
were presented by the infidel Pasha of Egypt, and 
a malachite altar in the transept is a gift from the 
heretic Emperor of Russia. 

The granite pillars of the nave are from the 
Emperor of Austria; among which is the one cele- 
brated by Wordsworth, when it stood on the Shn- 
plon, which Napoleon intended for the triumphal 
4rch of Milan. A Jew bequeathed a large sum 
for the support of the church. The King of Hol- 
land gave 50,000 francs. A painting of the Con- 
version of St. Paul is by Camuccini; choir, by C. 
Modemo. A fine St. Benedict is by Kainaldi. An 
adjoining): cloister of the thirteenth century, belong- 
ing to the Benedictine Convent, which rests on 
fluted andtwisted pillars, has in the library cloister 
a small collection of Christian gravestones, from 
A.D. 55. f )ne beors the fisrure of an organ, with 
the words RV8TICVS SE VI Bv FECI. The atrium 
of the old church, the dlstinjruishin}; sl;;rn of a basi- 
lica, existed down to the sevcnteentli century, and 
is replaced by a modern court. In Its plan the 
former church was a duplicate of the old St. Peter's. 
About twenty-four of its colnmns Irere taken from 
the tomb of Hadrian ; and it was farther remark- 
sl>/0 aa hsrlnsr heen under the patronage of Eng- 
lUA Mia^ down to Henry Vltl. ''Long before 
^ aenrocUoa bjr Or^, tbM cbureh Imd been lo 



altered as to lose many of its most striking peeti* 
liarities. Decay and whitewash had done much to. 
cflace itS'beauty, wliich nevertheleMs teems to have 
struck all travellers with admiration, as combining 
in itself the last rcnihiisccncc of Pagan Rome with 
the earliest forms of the Christian world.*'— 
{ Ferguison .) Nciirtliisis S. PhoIo olleTre Foiitane 
(pa'io 190), witth its Trappist Convent, among 
c'ucah ptus plantations. 

OTHER ROMAN CHURCHES WORTH 
NOTICE 

(In aIphuY)etical order). 

Santa Agneae (St. A^nrs), near the Pamfili Palace, 
Piazza Navono, founded in the fourth century. Re- 
built at the charge of Innocent X., by Rainaldl 
(1550) and Btrroniini, who a<ldcd the cuiN>la and 
front. The interior is a handsome Ureek i-ross, in 
marble; cupola, painted by C. Ferri and Baciccio; 
paintings by Ferrata, Guide, Ac. Santa Agnese'a 
Martyrdom, by Algardi, is in the chapel dedicated 
to her, her naked figure hidden l)y hor long hair. 
In the portico is the tomb of Innocent X. At his 
death his family refused to bury him. One of his 
nifljor-domos bought the coffin, and another gave 
five crowns for the funeral expenses. 

Sanfa Agneae fuori fe Mura.— (See page 193.) 

S. Adnano, a' the Forum, at the comer of Vlar 
Bonclla, lately IdpntiHed as on the site of the Curia 
as rebuilt by Diocletian. 

Banta Agata in Suburra, Via Mazzarinl, restored 
in 1633, was a church of the fifth century, in pos- 
session of the Arians. It now bclon'rs to the JrUh 
College, and is behind the Aldobrandini Palace. 

8. Agoitino (St. Augustine), north-east of Piazza 
Navona. Built by Pintclll, about 1480, its dome 
being tlie oldest in Rome (by some years earlier 
than St. Peter's); and restored by Vanvitclll, who 
added the Angelica Library, annexed to it. Notice 
a celebrated fresco of Isaiah, by Raphael ; St. 
Augustine, by Guercino ; a monument of St. Monica, 
ills mother ; a Madcmna of Loreto, by Caravaggio ; 
Bracci*s tomb of Cardinal Imfwrlali; and a flno 
marble *Madonna and Child, by Sansovino. This 
last is the Santa Maria SSa. del Parte, which is 
snpposed to work miracles to mothers, and is covercA 
with necklaces, crowns, car-rintrs, and other fineryj 
while the foot is almost kissed away. An image 
of the Virgin, supposed to be German, is iwpularly 
attributed to St. Luke. Close by Is the Angelioa 
Library or 100 OOO volumes and 2,000 MSS., open' 
Sundav and Thursday, 9 to 2. 

8. Aieuandro. Bee Exntrtiont from Rome, p. 819. 

8. AhMio, on the Aventine, near Santa Saliina 
and the Tiber, facing the Rina (jroiide. was founded 
in the cit^hth centur>', on the site of S. B(»niface*t 
Church, and has been modernised Internally. The 
w«»oden stairs, under which St. Alexis lived seven-- 
teen years for self-mortllication. are si own. It 
stands next to the Blhid Asylum (De* ('ieehi)i 
The Porta Trigcmina (close to the Subllcian 
Bridge), Porta Mbincia, and PorU Navalis of th« 
old wall, are near at hand. All tliese buildinf* 
I wtrt mxMih AiaaH^ ^ the siege of 1849. 



NODBKN KOUB— OHDKOHBB. 



las 



(iiiliw>l«<a,ailtb*WHtiIdeo 



it Bomi Qudnli u 



who ibdlcBl 






Tnlnl'sAngelll, ic 



th< T«iB|ll* of 

e» BpMiu. Futly liT Born 

Tklidl«r(MiM1KS). Ko 

81. Fmioli da Pinl'i Cbi 

Anflllu KmaSnunn ud Sduulair, una i pruH oi 

Morocco (i;W). 

B. Amirta ilet amanl. on tba Qilrlnil, nor the 
Buberlnl Fa1u», belongs to thfi aaU:h CoUeye. 
'B. Jmfreo Mil VallelTn Via del Bndulo, oq the 

BeguD 1S91, byOllTlerl and flolilied byKademo; 

■plBndour. Tbe ronrETangelini, b;DaiDenlchlnii^ 

badnl Clwpali; all richly onwnimted. Tombs ol 
Plu II. and Plni III. An UHrtpllon reconlg Ihat 
tba bodf sf SI. Sabsatlan wm thrown Into a icwer 

MtaMmhi. In Ihliquarter mre the old palace of 

tnTeller. bnrlad In Ara Ct^l}, and the Talle 

of the FonuB ot AugDitaa. A mallchiirch otthe 
tatslfth centnrr, with a convent attacbed. There 

a. Anlanfg. facing Santa Harla Magglore. on the 



byValadler, 1«7. UBdarthepo 

of Clement IV. (Oanganelll), by Caaoxa, wken 
twenty-flTe yean old ; cenotaldi of Iha •ngraiaT 
Volpatl. by tba lame ; large altar-piece, by Uurai 
tori. Tomb of Cardinal Rlailo, by U. Angelo. 
Cenotaph to U. Angelo. In the corridor 01 tba 
ConVtnt! eaid to he a good llkencn, Alao tlia 

Haled bere. The Via In front 1> the old \itm 
Uldiis, frran a Temple of Iiii which ilood here. 
•An 0(Bll,or Sanla Marbtin Art Cirif, sFran- 



Into three navea. by IwenlT-lwo plUaris eighteen 

Ld the tranHjit made of a ponibyry aarcophagns, 
St. fleniard. by PintnrlMhlo. An AieensloB, by 



B. Ajaltfiare, facing the Altemna Palace, and 
adjolninc (he Semlnario Romano (for dericd atn- 
dmta), wat fonndad TTl, and rabiillt by Bannllcl 
Xir. PalaUui b* Pertulna and P«il, iHth » 

m. Afnna (SiAi ApciMleiV In Fliini del SS. 
AtMMC mr dril* Tana, fadni the OdaaaalcU 
Palm. Tfelita«Me(0«MlMUa«'ib«ni««i,r*- 



K thai granll 
tleie tbal tt 



JnplterCapllollnDi; Ini 



le Chrlallan piety of AngnJilaa. Tonmuttba- 
I thai a waxen flgnre of tbe Infant JenU. 

...^...... . ^j lets out l» 

-dn^ght. bjr 



as dropped in tbe pflrdk at 



Dead), founded bj 

Henator of Rome, 

leUie Greek 'chni 
Banla BalMiia. 



nt of Via Sepollt {LM^ 
. Ths TatpclaD Keek Ii 



on Ibe Arentlna, near tbe Batba 
an ancient church, partly aaad 
■, dedloatedln tbeaeeondeentuT , 
ler. Pragmenta of naibta ana. 
uniHiuiuiHi uDieaBlnthecrrpt. ItilaadavltUB 
a mediaTal wall. The old waU of Sarrlaa Tidlio* 
Baiaad dote to It and toward* tba Platliaa Pabltoa, 
tot bathera, tn ID* dlreetlna oI ^^^ ^Mk%<^^>; 



184 



BRAD6HAW*I» ITAl.t. 



[Section -i. 



t be bridge oyer ihe Almo, which runt through 
the Circa* Maximus to the Tiber. 

a. Bartohmmeo (St. Bartholomew), on the Idola 
di 8. Bartolommeo, fonndcd 111 the tenth century. 
Its fourteen granite columns are said to have be- 
longed to a Temple of ^sculapius, which stood 
here on the site of the hospital of S. Giovanni 
Calabita, which faces it. Its frescoes, Ac, have 
been injured by the inundations of the Tiber. 

S. Bernardo^ in Piazza d* Termini, on part of the 
site of the Uaths of Diocletian. A round church, 
made by incorporating the calidarium of the baths, 
in 1600. Remains of a theatre and hemicycle are 
in the grounds adjoining. 

B. Biagio (or St. Blaise), in Via Giulia, near the 
Tiber, is the church of the Armenians. 

Santa Bibiana, near the railway and Porta S. 
Lorenzo. Rebuilt by Urban VIII., out of one of 
the flfth century, dedicated to the memory of a 
(laughter of Flavian, prefect of Rome. The front 
is by Bernini (1625), and the statue of the saint, on 
the high altar, is by the same; the ** nearest ap- 
proach he has made," says Forsyth, **to the serene 
pathos of the antique." On this altar is one of the 
finest alabaster urns in Rome. Paintings by P. da 
Cortona, and Ciampelli. This church is seldom 
opened. Not far off is the round Temple of 
Minerva Medica, so called. 

a. Bonaventura, on the Palatine, with a convent 
A^oining, in which is a solitary palm tree. 

Cappuecini, or S. Maria della Concezione, in a 
square near Piazza Barberini; built by Urban 
VlII.*s brother, Cardinal Barberini. On the front 
is a copy of Giotto's Navicolla. or Bark of St. Peter. 
Notice Ouido's*St. Michael; the " Catholic Apollo. 
Like the Belvedere god the archangel breathes that 
dignified vengeance which animates without dis- 
torting."— C/br«y<A;. Domenichino*s St. Francis 
in an ecstasy. A. Sacchi's St. Anthony, and his St. 
Bonaventura, with the Virgin and Child. P. da 
Conona's St. Paul and Ananias. The founder's 
tomb, with the inscription, "Hie Jacet pulvis, 
einis et nihil." In the crypt below the bodies and 
ikeletons of the dead monks are preserved, and 
nwMle a show of. The vaults are illuminated 
Novtubcr 4th. 

8. Carlo a* Catinari^ In Piazza Catinarl (where 
tM porringer maker* used to live), near the 
Gh«tto, between the tlMMres of Pompey and Bal- 
InW't built 1612, on the site of S. Biagio, like a 
Oreek cross, with a front by Soria. The cupola 
it one of the largest in Rome, ai)4 is adorned with 
*Domenichino*s Cardinal Virtues. Notice, also, 
Ouido's fresco of St. Charles ; A. Sacchi's D^^th 
of St. Anna; G. Brando's Martyrdom of S. Biagio; 
p. da Cortona's altar-piece of St. Charles, under a 
4iils. One of the monks of this convent was the 
}0Jum^d C. Vercellone. editor of the Vatican MS. of 
/fA0 afeptosgint Mtid New Te«t4ment, prepared by 



*/9. Carlo al Corto, on the Corso. Begun, 1812, 
by Lunghi, and finished by P. da Cortona. It is 
rich in marbles, paintings, and stuccoes. It Is the 
church of the Lombards. Notice C. Maratta's 
Presentation of St. Carlo to the Savicrarf^at the 
high altar; and a fresco by Maratta in St. 
Charles's Chapel. Tomb of A. Verri, author of 
"Notti Romaue." 

8. Carlo (or Carlino) alle quattro Fontane^ on 
the Quirinal. A small church by Borromini, said 
to fill a space loss than that occupied by. one of the 
great piers of St. Peter's. The style is extravagant. 

Santa Caterina de' Funari, Via de' FalegnamI, 
has a Dead Christ, by Muziano, with other pie- 
tores by F. Z. Zuccari. 

Santa Caterina di Siena, in the Solita del Grlllo, 
a pretty church, attached to a large Dominican 
nunnery; in the grounds of which is a fine medl»val 
tower, called Torre di Milizia. Near this, in Via 
Nazionale, is the Palace of the late Cardinal Anto- 
nelli, under which remains have been found of 
the Baths of Constantino. 

Santa Cecilia in Troitevere. Rebuilt in the 19th 
century ; having been restored in the ninth century, 
on the site of one first erected about 280 a.d. by 
Pope Urban. Notice St. Cecilia's statue, beneath 
the High Altar, by S. Mademo ; and some ancient 
mosaics from the former church. The naves rest 
on ancient granite pilasters. 

S. Cesareo, on the Via Porta di S. Sebastiano, 
near the Baths of Caracalla ; an ancient church 
of the seventh century, with some modem mosaics 
by d'Arpino. 

*8. Oldmenta, out af Via di S. Giovanni, on tha 
Esqidline ; originally one of the oldest churches 
in Rome, founded by Clement I., and restored by 
Clement XI. It retains its ancient basilica form 
(fourth century) in a more complete state than 
any other in Rome, having an atrium, or court, in 
front, surrounded by a columned portico. Inaids 
are three aisles, divided by granite and cipolino 
columns, with two old ambos, or reading desk*. 
The vault in the apse is inlaid with mosaics of the 
thirteenth century, representing the Four Riven . 
of Paradise issuing from the Cross. Below it are 
the remains of an earlier Church, and of a Temple 
of Mithra(?), first discovered by Dr. Mullooly^ 
and standing on the site of St. Clemen fs ffonse^ 
close to remains of the city Wall, built by 
Servius Tullius, B.C. 500. It contains an ancient 
fre$co-oi Roman bishops in this order — 1. Linns; 
2. Clemens; 8. Petrus. Notice a mosaic of the thir- 
teenth century in the vault; Christ's Passion, a 
fresco, by Massaccio; St. John the Baptist, a 
statue, by a brother of Donatello; tomb of St« 
Clement. It was near this that, according to the . 
old scandalous story, "Pope Joan'' (a vonnc. 
woman of Mayence) was delivered of a child. A 
statue of her, with a tiara on her head and a child ' 
in her armi^ was shown in Lather's timt. ^ 



itoiite 32.] 



MODERK BOMiC — CHtmOttEf. 



185 



S. Costanza. (See further on, page 193, 
** Churches outside Rome.'*) 

S. Cositnato, in Via di S. Francesco, in Traste- 
Tere ; a small church of the tenth century, with 
an image of the Virgin, which, being thrown into 
the Tiber, came safely ashore at Ponte Rotto. 

SS. Cosmo e Damiano (SS. Cosmus and Damian), 
in the Via Sacra^ near the F^urum, on the site of a 
Temple, which was made into a church, 527, by 
Felix III.; restored, in 780, by Adrian I., and 
partly rebuilt by Urban VIII., in 1635. Part of 
the cella of the temple of Romulus, son of Max- 
entius, is incorporated in the vestibule of the 
Cihurch. Mosaics of the sixth century. Three 
arches of the Basilica of Constantine are at hand. 

88. Critpino t Crispiniano, in the Lungaretta, in 
Trastevere, was given to the corporation of shoe- 
makers in 1705, before which time it was called 
Santa Bonosa. It contains the monument of Cola 
di Bienzi, the Last of the Tribunes. There is an 
Inn of this name at Rochester. 

Santa Croee^ in Via del Luochcsi, belongs to the 
natives of Lucca. It stands on the old Forum 
Suarium, or Pig Market, and was at first called S. 
Niccolb in Porcilibus, from that circumstance. 

Santa Croce in Oertualemme^ near Porta Mag- 
giore, close to the wall ; one of the four basilicas 
in Rome, on the site of the gardens of Helioga- 
balus, or Horti Variani. Built in St. Sylvester's 
time, by Constantine*s mother, St. Helena, in 
honour of a piece of the true cross, found at Jeru- 
salem, and of some earth from Mount Calvary; 
and rebuilt by Benedict XIV., in 1745. It has a 
square tower, and contains three aisles, divided by 
massive pillars, with frescoes by Pinturicchio. 
Over the altar is an antique basalt urn, oma- 
■leHted by four lions* heads. Among the relics 
they show the original inscription placed over the 
Saviour ("Jesus of Nazareth"), Aic, found in 
1482; jan evident forgery. The subterranean chapel 
of St. Helena, who lived in this quarter, is at the 
fiarther end, decorated with mosaics; ladies ad- 
nltted on 20th March only. The Basilica was 
ooce called the Sessoriana. The Castrensian 
Amphitheatre is close by. > 

8. Eiaebio, on the Esquiline, near the railway ; 
dedicated to Pope £u8e]l>ius, in the fifth century, 
and rebuilt in the 18th. The vault is painted by 
Mengs. It stands on the site of the house of Lici- 
niiis. At the junction of three or four roads, near 
this, is the Nymphieum of Alexander Severus, an 
ancient fountain. 

Sanf Euitackio, facing Piazza Eustachio, near 
the Pantheon. The saint's relics, with those of his 
wife, are in an urn at the high altar. 

Santa Franeesea Romana^ or the Annunziata, 
near the Basilica of Constantine. Built on the 
remains of the Forum of Cupid by Pope Sylvester, 
and called at first Santa Maria Antiqua. Notice 
t]ia tomb of Gregory XI., by Olivieri; mosiaics 
ol the ninth century. Open only on the feast of 
fi^rta Franeesea, the Annunciation, and the eve of 
Holy Thursday. Stones in ^e vail haye impres- 



sions, it is said, of the knees of St. Peter and 
St. Paul, made when they knelt to pray for inter 
position against the arts of Simon Magus. 

8. Francesco di Paola^ on the north-western slope 
of the Esquiline, was built 1623, and has paintings 
by Sassof errato. It is attached to a large convent, 
now converted into the Reale Istituto Tecnico, 
and occupies the site of a Temple of Diana and the 
house of Servius Tullius, the builder of the old 
wall. When ho was killed by his son-in-law, 
Lucius Tarquin, and his dead body thrown into 
the street, it was driven over by his own daughter; 
an act of wickedness perpetuated in the old name 
of the street. Via Scelerata, now Via di S. Fran- 
cesco di Paola. 

S. Francesco a Ripa^ near the Ripa Grande, is 
the most southern church in Trastevere, and was 
founded (under Gregory IX-) by S. Francesco 
d'Assisi, with a large hospital attached, in which 
his room is shown. It has a Piet&, by A. Carracci ; 
and a St. Francis, by d'Arpino. Near it, is the 
little church dedicated to the Sant' quaranti Mar- 
tiri, or foity Christian soldiers, executed under 
Gallicnus. 

Santa Oalla^ near the Suspension Bridge, with 
its hospital attached, was called Santa Maria in 
Portico, being near the portico of the Forum Oli- 
torium, or Herb Market. Near this was the Porta 
Triumphalis, made in the old wall of Servius 
Tullius, on the Triumphal Way. 

S. GallieanOy in Piazza Romana, in Trastevere, is 
dedicated to a Consul, who suffered martyrdom 
under Julian the Apostate, and is part of a Hospital 
for cutaneous diseases ; founded by Benedict XIII. 

S. Oiacomo, near S, Agnese, Piazza Navona, 
built 1450. The national church of the Spaniards. 

*GeBiL (Jesus), Piazza del Gesh, near the Palazzo 
diVenezia. The Jesuit Church, and one of the 
finest and most richly ornamented in Rome, with a 
large convent attached. Begun, 1568, by Vignola, 
and carried on by his pupil, Delia Porta. Notice 
frescoes in the cupola, &c., by Baciccio; C. Ma-> 
ratta's Death of St. Fr. Xavier ; also the rich chapel 
and altar, of St. Ignatius, by Pozzi — a blaze of 
precious stones, with a unique globe of lapis lazuli; 
a silver-gilt statue of the Saint (replacing that 
which the French melted down), and marble 
groups, both by Legros. Tomb of the famous 
Cardinal Bellarmine, by Bernini. Painting by 
F.Zuccari. High altar, rebuilt 1842 ; andMuziano's 
Circumcision. July 31st is the Feast of S. Ignatius, 
and on this day, on the 31st December, and the 
two last evenings of the Carnival, it is brilliantly 
illuminated. 

S. Giorgio in Vdabro, in the street of the same 
name, in the Forum Boarium, near the Arch of the 
Money-changers and the Arch of Janus; the first 
one being incorporated in the wall of the church. It 
is an ancient building, with a square tower, dedi- 
cated to St. George of Cappadocia, the patron saint 
of England, whose head and banner are here. It waq 
CardhialNewmfUA's Church; andi8open28idAs^<c5^ 
The V«Uibn»». '^Vk >» xanxiw^ \tw*pv>**ww^'<5»«^ 



18C 



fiXADSRAw'i rrAir. 



tSMtiOB §4 



Tiber ftnd Mount Pal«tint, fraquently tnimdatea 
bf the rirer. Here were the public markets of the 
ancient city. 

S. Giovanni Battista, in Via dei Genoresi, in 
Trasteverc, belongs to the Qenoese; it stands next 
the S. Pasquole Asylum, and on the site of the field 
in which Forsenna 8 camp was established; after- 
wards the Gardens of Caesar, which he bequeathed 
to the Roman people. 

S. Giovanni DecoUaio possesses a good St. John 
Baptist, bv Yanari. The Cemetery, in which crimi- 
nals are buried, is resorted to, says Mr. Burgon, 
by '^persons of the humblest class, in order to ob- 
tain from the souls in purgatory a suggestion as 
to lucky numbers for the lottery.^' 

8. Giovanni Evangelista, in a solitary spot, near 
the Porta Latina, founded 772, on the site of the 
Temple of Diana. It has three naves, divided bv 
marble pillars, and an altar-piece, by Zuccari. 
Close to the gate, across the road, is the round 
Chapel of 8. Giovanni in Oleo, where the Evangelist 
was dipped in boiling oil. The Tomb of the Scipios 
is near at hand. 

S. Giovanni de* Florentini (St. John of the Floren- 
tines), on the Tiber, at the north end of Via Glulla, 
near the remains of Pons Triumphalis. Built from 
Sansovino*s designs, at the charge of a Florentine 
brotherhood, but not finished till 1724, by A. Galilei. 
The interior is by Delia Porta. Notice 8. Rosa's 
Deliverance of 88. Cosmus and Damianus. St. 
Jerome and 8t. Francis d'Assisi, both by Santa 
Titi, a Florentine artist. B. Cellini's brother. 
Francesco, U buried here. Near this is the Church 
of Sanf Eligio, the patron of goldsmiths. 

8. Giovanni in Laterano. (See page 180.) 

88. Giovanni e Paolo, on the Celian, in a fine 
situation, facing the Palatine. A modern church, 
handsomely restored in 1880 by Cardinal Howard, 
on the site of one of the fourth century, dedicated 
to two brothers beheaded by Julian the Apostate. 
Its Ionic portico was built by the English Pope, 
Brakospeare. The convent is resorted to by 
aercisti, or persons disposed to pious meditation. 
It has a fine palm, which, with the scenery around, 
as well as other parts of Rome, is described in 
Madame de Stall's Corinne. 

8. Girolamo data Caritd, Via di Monserrato, 
founded in the fourth century, and rebuilt by 
Borromini. St. Philip resided and founded his In- 
stitute here. Communion of St. Jerome, copied by 
Cammuccini from Domenichino. St. Peter* and 
the Keys, by Muzlano. Near this is a Collegio 
Inglese, for English clerical students. 

8. Girolamo degli 8chiavoni (8t. Jerome of the 
Sclavonians), at Porta dl Ripetta. Built by M. 
Lunghi and G. Fontana; and redecorated, in 1862, 
with frescoes, by Gagllardi. 

8. Giuseppe (Joseph), Via dl Capo le Case, near 
the Pinoian, has an altar-piece, by A. Sacchi. The 
festa is kept on 19th March, during Lent, with 
A/teJJe, ^A 

^ tf;MfiMQ0if df* J^aUsnami, orer th9 tf«nertJne 
-«35r«^ paaasFf to the oorpofwUoB 0f0arpmUn, 



and has C. Maratta'sflnt work-^llie Birth of Ohriit. 

*8. Gregorio Magno^ on the Celian, faeing the 
Palatine and the Septizonium of the Palace of the 
CsBsars. Erected by Gregory the Great, in the 
seventh century; rebuilt, 17A4, by Ferrari, on the 
site of St. Andrew's. Gregory lived in his owm 
house, on the Clivus Scauri. It contains sixteen 
ancient pillars, from the old church. The front is 
by Soria. In St. Andrew's Chapel, one of three 
attached to this church, are two fine frescoes, via.. 
Guide's St. Andrew Adorning the Cross, and 
Domenichino's Flagellation of St. Andrew; with 
a stone altar-piece, by Pomerancio. A fresco of 
St. Sylvia, the mother of Gregory, by Guido, is in 
another chapel. There is a painting of her by 
John Parker, an English artist. They show, also, 
St. Gregory's marble table and chair, and his cell. 
Statue of St. Gregory, by N. Cordieri. There was 
an inscription here (since removed) to **Impera, 
cortisana Romana," an Aspasia of the age of Leo 
X. In the colonnade is the tomb of Sir E. Came, 
Henry VIII.'s envoy, jointly with Cranmer, In 
1530. The detached chapels of S. Silvia, S. Andrew, 
and 8. Barbara are shown by the Sacristan, fee, 
50 cents. An inscription on the wall records that 
this monastery produced not only St. Gregory, who 
was abbot here, but St. Augustine, the Apostle of 
the English; St. Lawrence, St. Mellitns, and St. 
Honorlus, Archbishops of Canterbury; St. Pault- 
nus. Archbishop of York; St. Justus, Bishop of 
Rochester. 

8. Grisognono, in Trastevere, was founded in the 
fifth century, and rebuilt 1628, several granite pil- 
lars, from temples hereabouts, being nnployed. 

8. Jgnatto, in Piazza S. Ignazio, between the 
Corso and the Pantheon, with its convent, is on the 
site of a temple of Juterna, sister of Ttimus, and 
adjoins the ol i Jesuit Collegio Romano. A church 
of travertine, begtm 1626, hi honour of St. Ignatius 
de Loyola, the architects being Algardi and Grassi. 
Pozzi, another Jesuit, adorned the high altar and 
vatdt, which is regarded as a triumph of perspec- 
tive, when seen from a special point of view. 
Notice a statue and bas-relief of Louis de Gonzaffa, ' 
and the tomb of Gregrory XV., both by L€«ros ; 
also of Cardinal Ludovisi, the founder of the 
church. By its side, in line with the Corso, was 
the Septa Julia, or Jtdian Court, begun by the 
Triumvir Lepidus. 

8. IHdoro, on Monte Pincio, belongs to the Irish 
Franciscans, whose annals have been written by' 
Dr. Wadding, who is buried here. Built 16Sf. 
Notice paintings by A. Sacchi and G. Maratta, and 
a slab to Curran's daughter. 

8. Lorento, a basilica. (See Churches outside* 
Rome, page 198.) 

8. Lorenzo in Danuuo,next the Cancelleria,near 
Via del Pellegrino, a church of the third century: 
rebuilt 1495, by Bramante, and restored 1816 aiM 
1880. Portico, by Visniola. Altar-pieoe, on slate, 
by Zuccari. Tombs of A. Oaro, a translator of the 
iSnetd, and of Clianoellor BoisL assasslncted la 
1848, on the ttepi of the Caneeliaria, before tlM 
Pgipe'ifiigMV>ai«U. 



HoaM sa.] 

B- Lortmto in fiOnlt, o: 



Tnio(ji Lttcina. oppo"ilc P»l»i! 
» dl S. Ixtrenio, on tho Ute r.1 i 
Luelna. RtboUt hy Pml V 
Ion. It Ihe high nit VI Tombof 



Fnmiina, of whlc 



onlhoelleof the Buh.of Nero. Th* Church or 

In 1589, (rom the dulcns of l>ellii Portu, Notloa 
■ f roco of t h« Acta ol at. ChILU. bj Domenichlno, 
AcapyaIRiipbaeL'sSl.CecJJlii.byanldo; Anainp- 
tlga at ths Virgin, by Biuano, it lb« high bIIu, 
Si. Louli'i Chapel, da>lr»]<l by rUntlUs Urlccl. a 

prlnat, wba hecniae CardlDBl when ea yeui oli^ 

Za MadMaui. near tuo PoDlheon. Carvlngi In 

rndd pallet or (lurnuued U Fulmbie. ocLlKhtnlnE), 

JAndDiura di' JAntf, on the north-ircU side of the 
Eeqnlllne, baa Mnilano's Birth of ChrlBl, and focei 
Ibe CfHiTait dells Vive Sepoltc. 



-eiln." On St. Hurl 



orypti). about 10 






Conu, taolnf the Slmonetta Palace. Foundeil 
v.diln«ii'nademli.d, Tombof C^irdWOonMlvil 



wntury, by Pope Marco, who H buried here. 
lIatlcaHmeiarirChrlstlvieplupbi.inlbepoFtleo, 

ttoa ol the Win Mim, wd th* tomb or L. da 
rutt*, on* Bl the miIImI mrki of 0*mtk. A 



mot 'by raHing the floor a or 




e b»e> of eight ancient 


|granlto^_«.lnnu^ 






ared from bucks in a mode 




nglb o( the ohnrch la WO fee 




clrenlar chamber (or laconl 


iuo) of'the Baths, 


'SrSiTtsS 


17(1. CMaratta'i 


ptlsm of Christ: CoBanil-»S 


Peter and Tabllhai 




laa and Sapphlra 




of which Clement 


V. laid. "He vonld speak 
der <lld nol forbid him,^- 


If the nde. of bt> 


nder the yeitlbnlo 


e two chapel!, 'containing the 




dS.Ro>iaaclnsthoHorC 


rdlnali Parltlo and 


clatl. The epllapb on the 


farmer Hates that 


bile 1.11 body la gone to the 


MTtb. his fame Dili 


e world and hia >on] baa a 


scendeS to heayen. 


e Cettoia cloister, befain 


the chnrcb. was 


'altrned by M. Angelo. The colnnuia, to Iba 



h of Holnenliu, a 
to the natives o(< 
leCaptanlcfl Col- 



All orphan aiyliuu. fonoded by Loyola 
Banta MaHa in Ara CttH. (Sai .. 
a. Alwto, ViUsv vt 'Out YMn 



188 



BRADSRAW^S ITALt. 



[Section i 



Malta. Close by the chnrch Is the Villa Maglstrale, 
with portraits of all the Grand Masters. 

Santa Maria in Campitelli, in the Piazza of that 
name, west of the Capitol, or Campidoglio (by cor- 
ruption, Campitelli), near the site of the carceres, 
or stables, of the Flaminian Circus (Piazza Mor- 
gana). Built (1658) by Rahialdi; the nave being 
supported by twenty-two pillars, from the Portico 
of Octavia, which stood hard by. It is sometimes 
called Santa Maria in Portico. Notice a tomb, 
with lions supporting a pyramid, having "umbra" 
on one and "nihil" on the other. St. Anne, by L. 
Gordona. A cross of shining alabaster in the cupola. 
Near this is a fountain by Delia Porta, on the site of 
the Delubrum, or lustral fountain, from the Temple 
of Apollo, which occupied a place here, along with 
the Temple and Column of Bellona. The Oblata 
Convent of Tor de* Speech! is also close by, next 
the steps to the Capitol. 

Santa Maria in CarinU^ Via del Tempio della 
Pace, behind the Basilica of Constantine, to the 
north-east of the Forum. A small church, so 
called from the Ct^lnas quarter (the ground took 
the form of a ship's hull) in which Pompey lived 
in the Villa Rostrata, a house adorned with the 
be^s of a ship. 

Santa Maria in Campo Santo, behind St. Peter's, 
on the site of Nero's Circus, now the German 
Cemetery. St. Helena, it is said, covered the spot 
with holy earth from Mount Calvary. Caravaggio's 
Descent from the Cross; an Infant, by Qnesnoy, 
or Fiammingo, a Brussels artist. The old Palace of 
tht Inquitilion (SS. Uffizio), near it, is now a 
barraclc. 

Santa Maria deUa Coneezione, or Santa Maria del 
Cappnccini, see Cappuceini (supra). 

Santa Maria ddla Consolazione is attached to the 
Consolazione Hospital, for wounded persons. 

Santa Maria in Cotmedin, Piazza Bocca della 
Verltit, on the site of the Temple of Fortune. 
It is marked by a square campanile of seven 
storeys. 110 feet high, only 15 feet broad. Founded 
by Pope Dionysius, and rebuilt by Pope Adrian, 
782, and again, by Gregory IX., in the thirteenth 
century. "Cosmedin" is said to be a corruption 
of eotmos, ornamental. In the portico is a 
gaping mouth (bocca), or mask, of marble, into 
which, as the story goes, if a liar puts his arm he 
cannot draw it out again. Hence the name of the 
Piazza. The interior is divided into three naves 
by antique columns, with a mosaic pavement of 
Alexandrine work. The high altar is made of 
Egyptian granite. An ancient crypt under the 
choir was part of the temple. Near this is the 
round Temple of Hercules. 

Santa Maria in Domniea, or Santa Maria della 

Navicclla; so called from the ancient marble boat 

in front of it, near Nero's Aqueduct and 

Banto Stefano Rotondo. Rebuilt by Leo X., from 

M^lise/'0 deaigrna, incindlng eighteen granite pil- 

/^rr oflif ffro of porphyry, from tb$ Old chorcb 



founded by Pasciialis I. ; with a frieze, painted by 
G. Romano. A mosaic of the year 817. 

Santa Maria Egiziaea, or the Armenian Church, 
near Ponte Rotto, is on the site of the Temple of 
Fortuna Virllis (?), one of the few antiquities of 
the Republic, now incorporated with it. It Is 
constructed of tufa and travertine, the pillars being 
adorned with stucco ornaments and frieze, with 
festoons of candelabra and bulls' heads. In the 
portico is a model of the Temple at Jerusalem. The 
altar-piece, by F. Zuccari. Facing it is a building 
called the House of Rienzi, or of Pilate. 

Santa Maria di Loreto, Piazza Trajano. De- 
signed by Sangallo. Statue of St. Susanna, by 
Fiammingo. Near this church is another dedicated 
to the Santissimo Nome di Maria. 

Santa Maria Maggiore (see page 181.) 

Santa Maria ad Martyret is the ecclesiastical 
name of the Pantheon since its dedication in 608. 
Another name more generally given to the 
Pantheon is Santa Maria Rotonda. 

*8anta Maria topra Minerva (on Minerva), near 
the south-east of the Pantheon, was attached to 
the chief convent of the Dominicans, whose 
general presided over the Santo UflSzio, or Inquisi- 
tion, now the Ministry of Education. Rebuilt in 
the fourteenth century on the site of the Temple 
of Minerva, and remarkable as one of the 
very few Gothic Churches in Rome, simple 
in style, but much spoiled by modem Pal- 
ladian restoration. In front are marked the heights 
of the waters of the Tiber in the floods from 1422 
to 1598; that of 1580 is recorded by B. Cellini, in 
his '• Life." Notice a *Ckrist Bearing his Cross, by 
M. Angelo; Statue of Urban VII., by Buonvicino; 
Altar-picture, by F. Lippi, or Beato Angelico; 
Frescoes, by F. Lippi; rich Tomb of Paul IV.; 
Picture of C. Maratta, in the Altieri Chapel, with 
a Crucifixion, by A. Sacchi ; Tombs of Leo X. and 
Clement XII., by A. Sangallo ; with one of Cardinid 
Bembo, and another of Fra Angelico, the monk 
and artist (beginning "Hie jacet Ven. Pictor"); 
Tomb of St. Catherine of Siena; Gothic Tomb of 
Bishop Durand, covered with mosaics. Sec. ; Tomb 
of Benedict XIII. 

The Biblioteca Casanatensis of Cardinal Casanate 
is a part of the old Convent. Open daily. This 
library has 200,000 volnmes, and comes next in 
size to the Vatican. Facing the church Is an 
Obelisk on an elephant's back. 

Miss Catlow describes a ceremony in this church, 
at which the Pope was present: — "Again the 
music sounded. 'Dunois the Brave' was played 
when General Gnyon entered; but now it was a 
more solemn air. Hundreds of people poured in ; 
and soon we saw, coming down the opposite aisle, 
two large fans of white ostrich feathers stuck full 
of peacock's eyes; an emblem either of the Pope*8 
all-seeing power, or denoting that all eyes are 
upon him. Then came Pio None, borne aloft in 
his chair, by a number of men supporting the 
poles. H« tookied so like an eastern deity or Idol 



■ chair druMd <n tplendlil -wl 



' Uirstu'i VlilUtlnn, la the cupoU. The yanlt 
■ «l)OTethehigh»lt»r,byAlbBnL. The court of lb* 
MoDutery (1K4) Is br Bramsntr. 

ilo tfarla (W Pianlii (i.e., weeping). In Via 



two LitUe old geDtlemen wht 
en the Cardinala approachc' 
1 afler thia csreiuony miM 
ole of which Ihe Pontiff wm 



*Sanla Maria <W Fopolo, near Porta del Fopolo 
■ NetleePlnturicohio'aNativUylntheVonnll 



down the alile. aii or eight maiden 
■nd planers walked two and tHshe 

the Pope, and each had a dowry gi 

The Qaeen (Chrlnlna of Spiln, w 
wlch her husband, the Duke at 
danghter) passed; the French and 



altar), rcpnled lo be by St. Luke, before which tba 
Pope says mast, Sib September. A. Cairaccl'i 



del PlomU's Nativity, SUtueiof Daniel, ^,. br 

Santa Uaria da Friorato, aee Santa Maria 

Sania Maria liel Sale, lacing tlw aaspenalon 
bridge, and close to the Cloaca Maxima, Is now 



C'allx^' I^I. a 



SaRia Maria delC Orta. In Trastcyei 

on the site oOcrrtus Tulllns'B Temple ■_ 

Porte. In the Gardens (OrtI) of Cb!mi; and bnllt 



Vulco Raphael'! celchratcd (teico of the -Sibyls, 
tnnewhat In the style of M. Angela, who designed 
■ ohapcllMn. B. Fanuil'tPrcMBtation, and 0. 



The columns belonged lo the Temple of Isls and 
Eetipia. The Assumption, In Ihe ceUlng. Is by 
Domenlchlno. Moulcs of the twelfth century. 
Tomb of Cardinal D'Alenpin, by Paolo, of the 

Church of S. Callilo, founded in the third century, 
Narona. or (lie Clllaa Ifima. ij„ Nek C^nt^o 



190 



BBADSHAW*8 ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



hU Diary, 1645) ; is the Church of the Oratprians, 
or Pilippinif a society founded by S. Philip Neri 
by whom a musical entertahiment of a religious 
.character is given every Sunday evening, half-an- 
hour after Ave Maria. None but men are admitted. 
. From this institution we derive the word Oratorio. 
It is one of the finest churches in Rome, and was 
rebuilt according to the plans of Borromini. The 
interior decorated by P. da Cortona. Notice a 
Virgin and Child, and two other paintings, by 
Rubens, at the high altar. Copy of Caravaggio's 
Descent from the Cross. Guidons fresco of St. 
Philip Neri, and a statue of him, by Algardi. 
Tombs of Cardinals Baronius and Maury. Above 
the vaulted oratorium of the convent is a good 
Library— open three days a week. 

Santa Maria in Via Lata, in the Corso. Rebuilt 
1662, on the site of an Arcli of Claudius (pulled 
down 1485) and of the primitive Church of S. 
Ciriaco. Here, it is said, St. Paul, with St. Luke 
for his companion, lived in **his own hired house," 
with the soldier who guarded him. It is orna- 
mented with marbles, ice, and has an oratory in 
the crypt below. 

Santa Maria della Vittoria, in the Via dl Vcnti 
Bettembre, opposite to the Acqua Felice near the 
Baths of Diocletian ; founded in 1605, after a defeat 
of the Turks; the front, by Soria, being added by 
Cardinal Borghese, in return for a present of the 
statue of the Hermaphrodite, which had been 
found here. The interior is the work of C. 
Mademo. The flags were taken at the battle of 
Lepanto. Notice Domcnichino's Virgin and St. 
Francis; Guercino's Trinity; and Guido's frescoes, 
with his Crucifixion. Bernini's St. Teresa in 
Ecstacy, with an Angel about to thrust an arrow 
through her heart. The high altar is new since 
1833. 

S8. Martina e Luca, comer of Via Bonclla. Two 
churches, the lower very ancient, founded by 
St. Sylvester, the other built, seventeenth century, 
by P. da Cortona, who bequeathed 100,000 crowns 
to the church, and adorned its ancient crypt. It 
belongs to the Academy of St. Luke. . 

S. Martino ai Monti, on the Enquilinc, near the 
Baths of Titus. A fine church, restored in 1650, 
by Fiiippini, on the site of one of the sixth century. 
It contains twenty-four antique pillars, with instru- 
ments of martyrdom in the frieze, frescoes by 
Poussin, <fec., and a high altar designed by P. da 
Cortona, who also designed a subterranean chapel, 
or oratory, m which the remains of Popes St. 
Sylvester and St. Martin are kept. Here the Pope 
presi-icd over two C(mnci1s. It communicated with 
the ancient Baths of Hadrian. 

SS. Ne.reo e Achilleo, on the Via dl Porta Sebas- 

tiano, near the Baths of Caracalla, founded, 523, by 

John I., to the memory of two martyrs under 

Domitian, and rebuilt in the ninth century. It 

was agiin rebuilt in the sixteenth century, but 

not modernised. The arcades. are supported by 

J/^Ai octagon piers. Notice the marble work of 

tAa cAoJr, aJtar, reading desk, Ac, ornamented 

fr/tA jffjie frescoea. 



S. yiceolb in Qxreere, near the Tiber, founded iA 
the ninth century, and rebuilt In 1855, on the site of 
the three Temples of Juno Sosplta, Hope, and Pity, 
erected in the Republican period, over some earlier 
prisons, in the Forum Olitoriiim, or Herb Market. 
It has three naves, with columns from the temples. 

Sant" Omobono, in Via della Consolazione, was 
granted to the Tailors' Corporation, 1573, before 
which it was called S. Salvatore in Portion. 
Paintings by C. Maratta and Bacicclo. 

*S. Onofrio, on the Janiculum, above Porta 8. 
Spirito, is the head-quarters of the Girolammt (or 
followers of St. Jerome), where their Prior- 
General resides. Built in the fifteenth century, 
and noticeable for the Tomb of Tomo, who found 
refuge and died in the convent adjoining, 1595. It 
is near the door, not far from Domcnichino's Vir- 
gin and Child. His effigy, by Fabris, is the gift of 
Pio Nono. Here are A. C!arracci's Madonna ; and 
n Madonna by L. da Vinci; d'Arpino's frescoes. 
Notice also, the Tombs of Guidi, the poet, who 
died here; Barclay, the author of "Argenls'*; 
Mezzofanti, the great linguist, who died 1848. In 
Tasso's Cell they show a mask taken from his face, 
his inkstand, girdle of bark, chair, and an auto- 
grraph letter. His favourite oak was blown down 
in 1842. In the corridor is a fresco of the Virgin, 
by da Vinci. The gardens command a fine pros- 
pect of Rome and its environs. 

8. Pancrazio, near the Porta <li S. Pancrazio, 
on the summit of the Janiculum. Built by 
Symmachus, about the sixth century. It was 
mu<h diim iged in the siege of 1849, and is of no 
great interest. 

S. Pantaieo, near the Cancellaria, in Via dl 8. 
Pantaleo. Monument of S. Joseph Cnlasanzio, it 
Spaniard, who established the first school for poor 
children at Rome, under the religious order of 
Scolopi, a corruption of scuole pie. 

S. Paolo fuori le Mura, (See page 182.) 

S. Paolo alia Regola, near Ponte Sisto, formerly 
called the Scuoia (school) dl S. Paolo, because St. 
Paul came here to teach the people ; living close 
by in a house pointed out by axcient tradition as 
his "own hind house." St. Frances, by Parmi- 
giano. The Church of S. Salvatore in Campa 
faces this one. 

S. Paolo alle Tre Fontane (St. Paul at the Three 
Fountains), on the same road as the new Basilica 
of S. Paolo (pairo 182), a little farther from Rome. 
It was l)uilt, 1590, by Delia Porta, on the spot 
where St. Paul was beheaded. They say that his 
head made three bounds, and that three jets <4 
water sprung up, which were enclosed by the 
church. Close to this are the Church of Santa 
Maria Scala Cceli, an octajron, built about 1582-90^ 
with some early mosaics by Zucca, and the Church 
of SS. Vincenxo ed Anaxtasio, a Gothic building (on 
the plan), with three naves. It was built about 
790, and, though of brick, with few ornaments, 
it shows '"both *'xternally and internally an 
uniformity of design, and a desire to make every 
part ornamental, that produces a yerv pleasing 
effect .''—Fen|Hiw« . 



^Dte 31.] 

ai.rSTBSA (BMplfIlT6 
a PUlTTi <» Vonarto, im th. 1 

e.PuisniiKnollcHble for It 
ttwcliyaoiloounirj. Rebnlli 



the liogo o( 1849, dttiUig w 
KsphMl'iTrsiliflgDratlon n 



muu Ui)Dta>Dr«D, Imtu Ilie jel 

•a. FMn <■ F)iK»H (St PCter 
EmiUliia. nut tb* Battii of Tt 

(or Jnlini 11^ md rertonid. In 
II bu a sarcophapu of [he '■! 

dulgiiH] M pan o( a tomb fur J 
bjf Ihat Pope, In IMS, but nover 
the iHoll wai the building of 



MODKOI X01l>--1]BITKaBSI. 



I bearing ■ huge undl*; ud (boat thirty or lartr 






Lt « ligaul gl'na by one or the party (by tapping 
he pavement with bla wandl they rose and >lowly 

a prewrrcd the column of the FlaBelUtlon. So 
romen may enter that chapel except on the 

sfl and made nay for auatlier proeesglon. Coining 
toRi and EoUig to their several parlihes, they 



tHilioJthflphyilcBl — ' 
le DnlTUtlty. 





Tho Temple of Dlaan and ot 




faced this ipot. 


"l^ulWTcarto 


Sonta Frauede. above nenl 


t::^a:r}vsr.i 










which the two slslers. his daughters, received Bt, 
I Peter. Ii«asrebuiUlnlG»8.byCatdinalGuetanIt 



pf tho BftT pariihoi In Hmne. The 
KM a lellad orocUli apfieiuing *l 
«ltlMr ilde of tba eUet huictioBE 



Ih century. Open t 



rolgo. II pTBMVH the 
rreioHi and psintln[>. 



bullicBl<inii,uidhui 






hj bli pnpllB. Tomb of Csnllna] BonlLvogllo, 
3. SUKiU-mn CaplK. PimzudlS. BILvBstro, o[ 
•Ite tne Engllth Churcb, «n the ille or 
fannded b; PidI I. (abODt TM), and i 






any) n 



in Basiia, vllfa ■ plain bnt ra 
LtBppdalc 3, fipliito, ni 



talli, on VU dl 
Id by 81. 



Il It alO ttet diameter ; and It! wall-pal nllnga. bjF 
yomeranclo and Toini»«a, rapreBcnt Ihe poneco- 
(ioi» of Ihe martyrs wllb dUgnttlng fldellty, Bt. 
Orojoryi marhlrj chatr ii here. It li the large.1 

lanfp Aidiirfo. faclnii tho Vldonl Palace I aanull 
ir»F7rrr/r An/mi^lBg In th« PlodoionUn. niot that o( 
: irji/eii iKloBgt to tbe BtlgUai, md tho 



wbo lef I a manlago portion ol filly cr 

;.?"™F ?'"."^. . .. „ 



B. Teodaro. Iteoiitiaii* 



) In Form 

.heArt*Ql 

B lUtlilng'ai. In Vis . 



by*G?egory XIII,, an'^lo the CollrflB Pia. lately 
founded by Plni IX.. for Engllgh canrerti. It haj 
toms raonumenla >nd jurtralti, and has been lately 
rMloreil. There iraa acbiirch hore, (onnded 1^ 
KlngOBa, 770, afterward! dedicated to St. ThomM 
orCanterbnty|TlioniukBecli«t). CardlnaSWiH- 



It. Abti«9, by Bene^le- 



arcii 



•Ytnllii dei PtiSiTlnl (of the pilgrima), 

te Siito. Bnllt 1QI4, cloie to s lodi^tng 

pllsrlniMindre-ediaedlnlWB. Quldo'a 

inlty, at the high altar. 

!, betveen the Qulilnal and VImlnal Hllli, 

. Mazionalo. 

tnatdAnatlatlo. (See S. Path alll IH 



e IhuHi many ItHIa 



,ie,1iti4llI«g(ttH 



eikolchcd. YonaannleT 
ritctlon, inre of a cItU 
vcryone yon meet, tmtll 

.1 j..„ r^n -fot^M 



Route 32.] 



MODERN BOME — CHUBCBE8, VATICAN. 



195 



urbanity of all in superior station, disarms your 
prejudices, and conciliates your good will. But 
the day has gone by when learning flourished in 
the cloister, and piety made it her favourite refuge. 
I doubt whether one ecclesiastic in five thousand 
can read Greek." — Bubgon's Lettenfrom Rome. 

CHURCHES OUTSIDE ROME. 

*Santa Agnex ftiori le Mura (».e., outside the 
wall), a basilica, 1| mile from Porta Pia, on Via 
Nomentana, near the entrance to the Catacombs. 
Pounded by Gonstantine, and has been thoroughly 
restored on its original plan, by Pio Nono, so as to 
offer a good specimen of the ancient basilica; 
which at first was designed as a court of justice, or 
exchange, and was copied in the early churches. 
Being some feet below the level of the soil there is 
a descent of forty-five steps to the vestibule, or 
narthcx. This leads into the nave, surrounded by 
sixteen ancient pillars, above which fourteen others 
rest and hold up the roof and walls. The mosaic 
in the tribune is of the seventh century. Notice 
an alabaster statue of St. Agnes, on the altar, made 
out of the torso of an antique figure, and bronzed 
over. The monastery was rebuilt 1856. The cata- 
combs, entrance in the left aisle, may be visited by 
application to the sacristan. On 21st January this 
church was opened, and the Pope blessed two 
lambs, which furnished the wool used for the 
palliums for archbishops. Notice the paintings of 
the Flagellation of Christ (one on stone) by Del 
Piombo, from M. Angelo's designs, the work of six 
years ; also one of Pio Nono held up by angels when 
the floor gave way with him and his suite, 1847. 

Santa Costanza (Constantia), close to the Basilica 
of St. Agnese. An edifice, 78 feet diameter, 
sometimes called a Temple of Bacchus, but built 
by Gonstantine as a baptistery for his sister and 
daughter, and made to serve as a family tomb. Its 
interior is of a Byzantine character. Its dome, 
pierced with twelve windows, is supported by 
twelve arches, resting on as many couples of granite 
columns, placed one behind the other, on the radii 
of the plan. The mosaics are of the fourth century, 
and correspond with the bas-reliefs on the red 
porphyry sarcophagrus of Santa Costanza, found 
in one of the twelve niches, which is now in the 
Vatican, close to that of St. Helena. There are 
remains of a Circus, about 130 feet by 630 feet, 
formerly surromided by arcades. 

*8. Lorenzo fvoridelle Mvra^ a basilica, half-a- 
xnile outside Porta S. Lorenzo, adjoining the Ceme- 
tery and the Catacombs of St. Ciriaca, and known 
by its square tower. Founded by Gonstantine, 
rebuilt by Pelagius II., in 678; and restored by 
Honorius III., who, in fact, added another and 
larger basilica at the end of the first one, which 
now serves as the tribune to the whole building, 
the Church of Honorius forming the nave. The 
portico of six granite and marble columns has a 
,uosaic in the frieze. The naves rest on twenty-two 
'^lars of granite and cipolino. The tribune, or old 
Church of Pelagius, on forty-four columns, was 
i^ve the nare, at half the height of the six 



ancient columns on each side, and has a pavement 
of Alexandrhie work, with other marks of anti- 
quity, including the bishops* chair. Pope Zozi- 
mus's tomb, a women's gallery, holes for windows, 
and some mosaic work of the sixth century. Notice 
the mosaics at ihc high altar, the two ambos in the 
choir, and the sarcophagus of Cardinal Fesch(Napo-> 
leon I.*s uncle), with bas-reliefs of a Roman Mar- 
riage on it. A small collection of Christian and 
heathen inscriptions, seen in the cloisters, was 
fouid in the catacomb of Ciriaca, now closed up. 
8. Paolo (St. Paul' s)/«or« le Mura. (See page 182. ) 
S. Paolo aUe Tre Fontane. (See page 190.) 
S. Sebastiano, a basilica, 2 miles outside Porta S. 
Scbastiiuio. Rebuilt in the seventeenth century, by 
F. Ponzio, on the site of one erected in 867, in the 
Cemetery of St. Scbastiano, now called the Cata- 
combs. It has a single nave. The entrance to the 
catacombs is through the church, and they can be 
seen without an order. 

S. Stefano, another ancient basilica, founded by 
Leo the Great, on the Via Latina, and discovered 
hi 1854-6. 

The Protestant Church, outside Porta del Popolo, 
has now been closed. In consequence of the 
permission granted by the Italian Government, 
suitable buildingg have been erected inside the 
walls. (See page 162.) 

The beautiful Protestant Cemetery is on the 
opposite side of the city, near the Porta S. Paolo 
and the Pyramid of Gains Gestius. Here Shelley, 
and Keats, with his friend Severn, are buried. 
Shelley was drowned in the Bay of Spezia. Keats's 
tomb was restored 1875. There is an unnamed 
stone to a Miss Bathurst, who was drowned in the 
Tiber. 

VATICAN PALACE AND MUSEUM. 

This palace is the residence of the Pope, whose 
Swiss guards, in yellow and red livery, are seen 
here on duty. It is a small part of a vast and ugly 
range of buildings, looking like a barrack, on the 
north-east side of St. Peter's, but fortunately 
hidden to some extent by its colonnade. It is the 
work of successive architects, from Bramante 
downwards, and consists of two irregular groups, 
which at first were some distance apart, but are 
now johied by long corridors, three storeys high, 
with several courts inside, in which the collections 
of the Muscimi are placed. It is 1,150 feet long, 
and 770 wide, and compri-^es 20 courts, H grand 
and 200 small staircases, with '' several" thousand 
rooms. 

It is called Vatican from the Mons Vaticanus on 
which it stands, where was a palace in which 
Charlemagne resided; but the Popes lived at the 
Lateran till the return from Avignon. John XXIII. 
joined this palace to S. Angelo's Castle (then used 
as the Papal seat) by a covered pallery. Mcho'as 
V. enclosed it within walls. Sixtu^ IV. built the 
Library and Sistine Chapel. Innocent VII., in 
1490, built the Villa Belvedere (whore the Apollo 
now stands), which Julius II. anncxad ts^ ^^OlR. 
palace, by BTMivft»X.«k% Vsvn-i^ «Ma!<o.x^.^ '^>DX'fi*!v ^«r^ 



194 



BBADfiHAW 6 ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



orlginiiUy 1,100 feet lonpr, and 225 feet wide. Leo 
X. bailt the loggie on the west Hide of the Cortile 
Dtinmso; Paul III. erected the Pauline Chapel; 
Hixtus v., the tnuiflverso «Hllery for the Library, 
no^v dividhiff the two principal courts within, nnd 
bc{;au the east side of the DamaHo Court. Clement 
XIV. and Pius VI. built the Pio-Clenicntino 
gallery; Pius VIL, the IJraccio Nuovo, luiother 
trauHverKo near that of Hixtus V.; and Grejjrory 
XVI. added the Ktruscun MuHcum. 

For entrance, apply at the Portone di Bronzo, 
on tlio riffht of the Vestibule of St. Peters. Open 
every day, except Hunduys, Saturdays, and fete 
d'lys, from 10 to 3. The visitor must tnke a supply 
of 60 cent, pieces nnd smaller coins, as fees arc tlio 
rule all over. The f^^uides are of little use. The 
]iermes80 requires to l)e renewed for e^ich visit. 

The Vatican Museum is unequalled in the 
world. Ik'sidos the Sistlne and Pauline Chapt'ls, 
the IjOKf?ie, Stanze, and Pinacoteca, with their 
display of works of art, it comprises the Museum 
proper, viz.. as the (iallery of Inscriptions ; Chiara- 
ir ontiandBraccioNuovoMuseum; Pio-CIemcntino 
Museum ; the Square and Bound Vestibules; 
Meloafjer Boom; Belvedere Court ; Boom of Ani- 
mal Statuary; Statmiry Gallery; Bust Boom; Cal>i- 
not of Mas(|ucs; Muses' Chamber; B(mnd Bo<mi; 
Greek Cross Boom ; Bitira Chamber; Candelabra 
Gallery; Map Galleiy; Ej^yptian Museum; Etrus- 
can Museum; Boom of Archives; Library; Museum 
of Christian Antiquities; Papyrus Cabinet ; Aldo- 
brandhii C'hamber; Cabinet of Medals; Borpria 
Boom. The Statuary, and Egyptian and Etruscan 
Museums are closed on Thursdays. 

Opinions natur illy differ, according: as the critical 
faculty is exercised or not. Thus one authority 
of eminence writes as follows: — "Even the Vatican 
statue gallery disappointed me. Amid acres of 
so-so statues and nameless busts, the eye wanders 
in vain for something to admire. It finds all it 
craves in the Apollo and Laocoon and the Torso, 
but it grows WiCary hmg before it reaches those 
famous works. The critical faculty begins to flag 
after it has been exercised upon so many hundre<l 
objects, few of which arc very good, and none of 
which are first-rate. To discover traces of mo<lem 
handling Is a sad discouragement. The l>eautif ul 
little head of the yoimg Augustus (vei*y like the 
youthlul Napoleon) has l)een chiselled all over, by 
a modern hand. Tlie tooling of the fifteenth cen- 
tury artists is to be traced in every direction. So 
maiiy supplemental noses, fingers, feet, hands, arms, 
heads, at last annoy you ; and I was not impatient 
for a second visit." 

Such a work as Bkaun's Ruins cuid Muaeum* of 
Rome will be useful to the visitor who wishes to 
enter uiNm a critical examination of the olijocts 
before liim, and to give K*>od reasons for admiring 
the best of them. Th.e Logglo of Baphael, which 
\>ere hardly recognisable, have hern rest»»rod. 

OntYio other hand, "There is," says Mendelssohn, 

*ano g/u^tihtr niul /ortunAte peculiarity here. 

^A aJJtho objectvhave been, a thotuaiid times 

—oribed, copied, and criticised, Id praise or 



blame, by the greatest masters and the most'inslg- 
nificant scholars, cleverly or stupidly; stilL, they 
never fail to make a fresh and sublime impression 
on all, affecting each person according to his own 
hidividuality." 

The Sala Begia, a room by Sangallo. ornamented 
with frescoes, including Gregory XI. returning 
from Avignon, by Vasari, and the Pauline Chapel 
(see below) can only be seen by applying to the 
custodians of the Sistlne Chapel. 

At the first landing on the Scala Begia, a passage 
leads to a small flight of steps, ascending which 
the visitor sees a small red balzc door on the righ' ; . 
this lends to 

The Gappella SiBtina, so called after its 
founder, Slxtus IV., was built by B. Plntelll, 140 
feet long and 50 wide. It Is a dark, heavy- 
Uxjklng, oblong room, remarkable for the frescoes 
of M. Angelo, including the celebrated Last Jttdg- 
fuent^ at the entran^se, and the Prophets and Sibyls. 
The *LaBt Judgment, executed 1533-41^ is 
faded and decaying. Some older frescoes, by 
Peruglno, were painted over by M. Angf lo, to make 
room for this great work. On the left of the Christ 
(copied from Fra Angellco's, at Orvleto), the. 
wicked fall, thunderstruck with terror, through 
the air, and are seized by the devils from' 
iMilow. All the attitudes, of the body, and all 
the pa.s8lons and feelings oif the eoul, are said to ' 
be expresse<l In this work. One of the figrnres. 
In hell, with an oss^s ears. Is Blaglo, master of 
the ceremonies to Paul III., put here by the artist 
for atfecthig to be shocked at the naked figures lu^. 
the picture. When lie complained, the Pope said: — ' 
'' Had It bcon in purgatory, I could have got hfni 
out, i)ut being In hoU, it Is quite beyond my 
power.*^ At a great height overhead is the faded 
ceiling, painted 1508-13 for Julius II., many years 
before the Liist Judgment. It contains three series 
of frescoes; when Baphael saw these he thanked 
Go<l he had been bom in the same af;c as so great 
an artist, and also changed his own style ; but they 
are unfortunately blackened by time and the smoke 
of candles. The first series inclu4esthe separation 
of Light and Darkness, tlie .creation of the Smi and 
Moon, the Earth and Waters, of Adam and Eve 
(the latter under the Creator's arm), the 
history of Noah and the Deluge, the Almighty 
being persohlfied. Iti the next series are the Pro- 
phets, Jeremiah, Ezeklel, Joel, tsalah, Daniel, 
Zachariah, and Jonah; alternating with the 
Cumasan, Delphic, and other Sibyls. In the third 
series are, AJiasuerus, Esther, David and Goliath, 
Judith, and Ilolofemos, with many otlier figures 
to fill up. Down the sides ofthe chapel are several 
frescoes, by Botticelli, Peruglno, Ac, with twenty- 
eight Popes, by Botticelli, between the windows. 

Paitline Chapel, built by Sangallo, for Paul 
III., Is a lighter and more cheerful room than tho 
Sistlne. Two frescoes, by M. Angelo— tho Con- 
version of St. Paul and the Martyrdom of St. Peter ; 
with others ia the ceiling by Zucchero, Ac. ■ 

Issuing, from the Sistlne Chapel, and asoendiiic 
the ttidTcate Y&tiL\.Vou«dL above, we come to' 



Route 32.] 



MODERX ROME — VATICAN. 



195 



a whito door, where sticks, Ac, are left, and enter 

tbo Gallery of Modem Pictures. These 

paintings arc of no special value and are contained 
in two rooms, but the prallory connecting ihem 
WHS fonncriy a chapel, and has a painted cupola 
hnd some rich ntaincd glass. Traversing the 8ala 
deli'Imniacolata, with frescoes of the Iinni:.culate 
Conreption, we come to the Stauze Of RaphaeL 
The Sianze Frescoes are in four rooms, 
which In Raphael's time were occufiled by the Papjil 
Court. The room first painted l»y him (l.Oll) is the 
second in order, the Camera iMla Siynatura (where 
the Pope signed brief:*, <tc.), covered wltli alle- 
gorical subjects — Pagan ami (.'hristian- -on the 
walls and ceiling. The four principal ones are: 
Ist — Theology, or the iJisputa del Sacramento, 
between the Doctors and the (.'hurch. Notice the 
portraits of Dante, Savonarola, and Hramante. 
2nd— Philosophy, or the School of Athens; in 
which are portraits of Raphael (by himself, when 
27). Peruitino (his master), and the Duke 
d'Urbhio (nephew of Julius If.). 3rd— Literature 
and Poetry, or Parnassus. Here Homer, Virgil, 
Pe'rarch, Boccaccio, ami other great names — 
classical and Christian — surround Apollo and the 
Muses. 4th — Justice, or Jurisprwloncc, supported 
by beautiful figures of Temperance, I'ortitude, 
and Prudence. This includes Trebonian, with the 
Digests of Justinian, and Gregory IX. and the 
Decretals. 

Stanza (FEIiodoro (the third from entering), the 
second room painted in order of time (1612), so 
called from the principal subject, viz., Ileliodorus, 
the Salian General, chased but of the Temple of 
Jeivsalem by angels, in allusion to the military 
successes of Julius II., whose portrait is seen. 
The other subjects are: 2nd — Leo I., with the 
features of Leo X., stopping Attila at the Gates of 
Rome. 8rd— The Miracle (a Bleeding Host) of 
Bolsena, where Julius 1 1, is seen performing mass ; 
a fine example of Raphael's colouring. 4th- 
Deliverance of St. Peter, in allusion to the release 
of Jjeo X., after the battle of Ravenna. Notice 
the effect of lie three different lights, from the 
angel, the torch, and the mocm. 

The third room, or Stanza del Tncendio (first in 
order), co-. tains the Hunilng of the Borgo, or 
8ul>url>8 of the city (8l7), imilt by Pope Leo. The 
Pope drives back the flames with tlie sign of the 
cross. Old St. Peter's is In the distance. Coron i- 
tiou of Charlemagne by Leo III. Death of Leo III 
I^o IV. 's Victory over the Sarneens. at Ostia. 
All these are intended to compliment Leo X. 
Notice i)ortraits of him and Francis I. The roof 
Is by Perugino. 

The last room, or SiHa di Costuntino, is the work 
of G. Romano, F. Peimi, and others, from Raphael's 
designs. Its floor is a fine mosaic, found near the 
Later.in, 1853. Here arc, Ist --ConKttmtine's Vic- 
tory over Maxentlus at Ponte Molle, a large fresco. 
2iid — Appearance of the Cross to Constantlne. 
Notice the ugly jester with a helmet on. 8rd — 
Baptism of Constantine at the Lateran. 4th— 
Constantine*^ Pon^tioii of the Citjr to. the Pope. 



This room leads to the Sala de'Chiaroscuri, and the 
Cappella dl Niccolb V. (shown by a keeper of the 
Sala Costantlno for 00c. ), in which are frescoes by 
Fra Angel Ico. 

On leaving the Sala Costautino we next como 
to the 

Loggie (plural of loggia), one over the other, 
begmi by Bramante and his nephew Raphael, and • 
continued by succeeding architects. They were 
painted by Raphael, and represent the principal 
events in the Bible. Only the first, Ood Creating • 
tlie World, is from Raphael's own hand; the rest 
are by his pupils, G. Romano, del Vaga, <fec.; but 
all are from his drawings. The frescoes were 
restored by del Plombo and C. Maratta. The- 
loggie on the second storey, planned by Raphael, 
and ornamentc<l with his graceful stucco ara- 
besques, give name to the fifty-two frescoes from 
his designs, painted In fours on thirteen compart- 
ments of the celling of the arcade. 

For entrance to tlic Picture Gallery (Pin a- 

coteca), ring the bell at the second door on the left 
of the Central Loggia. This choice collection, 
filling four nwrns in the third storey, includes 
Raphael's greatest work, the 

'Transfiguration— pahited for Clement VII., 
as an altar-piece for Narbonne Cathedral, of which 
he was archbishop. He was so pleased with it, 
Iiowever, that he kept It at Rome, and sent instead 
del Plombo's Resurrection of Lazarus (now in our 
National Gallery). The Transfiguration was left 
unfinished at Raphael's death, was carried in pro- 
cession at his fmieral, and then finished by G. 
Romano. 

Other pictures are the following: — 
Raphael's * Madonna dl Foliguo, painted for 
Gismondo Contl (1512), the Papal secretary ; and' 
his Coronation of the Virgin. " Here," says Men- 
delssohn, "the Madonna dawned on me in the 
whole si)lendour of her lovelmess." DonienicMno't 
•Connnunhm of St. Jerome ; regarded as his mas- 
ter-piece. Painted for the Church of Ara Ccell, for 
CO crowns, and neglected till its gieat merits were 
proclaimed by Poussln. A. Sacchfs *Vision of Ro- 
mualdo, whieh ranks among the "four great 
pictures " of Rome. He is sitting under a tree In 
the valley of Camaldoll, telling the vision to some 
monks of his order. Poussin's Martyrdom of St. 
Erasmus: a repulsive picture, like many other 
martyrdom sul)jeets. Outdo' s Madonna, with St. 
Jerome and St. Thomas. Caravaggio's Christ in 
the Tomb. 

Titian's •Madoium and Child, with St. Sebas- 
tian, St. Francis, Ac. In this picture there are 
three stages, as hi the Transfiguration. " Below 
sahits and martjrs arc represented in sufferhtg 
and abasement ; on every face Is depicted sadness 
nay almost impatience. One figure in episcopal - 
robes looks upward with the most eager and 
agonised longing, as If weephig; but he cannot 
see all that is floating abore his head, but which 
we see, standing in front of the \jte'C>»ss.. it^ws^^^ 
Mary aud Vv«t OcC^^ «t% V^. ^ ^vs\^ x-tA&kKex^NS^a. 



196 



BRADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



Joy and surrounded by an;fel!), who have woven 
many garlands. The Holy Child holds one of 
thdse, and seems as if about to crown the saints 
beneath, but his mother withholds his hands for 
the moment. The contrast between the pain and 
suffering below, whence St. Sebastian looks forth 
out of the picture with such gloom and almost 
apathy, and the lofty unalloyed exultation in the 
clouds above, where crowns and palms are already 
awaiting him. is truly admirable. High above 
the group of Mary hovers the Holy Spirit, from 
whom emanates a bright streaming light, thus 
funning the apex of the wliole composition. 
Goethe, at the beginning of his first visit to Rome, 
describes and admires tliis picture. Titian has 
imbued it with his genius and poetical feeling/' — 
Mendels9ohn. 

Ouerdno^s St. Magdalen. FraAngdico*$ S. Niccolb 
di Bari. Correggio's Christ on Rainbow. Man- 
tegna's Pietk. Perugitio's Resurrection of Christ, 
witli portraits of Raphael, his pupil, and of Peru- 
gino, by Raphael. Murillo's Holy Family; and 
the Prodigal Son. P. Veronese's Empress Helena. 

The public are again freely adiuitted to sec the 
famous Raphael Tapestries^ or Arazzi, (so styled 
from Arras, In French Flanders, where such works 
were first woven), from designs by tlic artist on the 
large paper Cartone, or cartoons. These tapestries 
were ordered by Leo X., for the Pupal apartments 
and chapel, a duplicate sot being intended as a 
present to Henry VIII. Out of twenty-five cartoons 
prepared by Raphael and his pupils, seven are now 
at South Kensington. ( Entrance from the Museum, 
tee page 198.) 

The principal entrance to the Vatican Museum 
(closed Thursday, 8amrd;iy, and Sunday) is from 
the Cortile Damaso, not at present open; the 
visitor must therefore ascend the steps on the left 
side of the entrance to St. Peter's, pass round the 
Cathedral and along tlie walk between he Vatican 
Gardens (closed) and the Palace to tlic Sala de!la 
Biga, ring, and give up UU permesso. 

In consequence of ttiis alter ition, the fillowin;:? 
descriptions will, for the present, have to be used 
in the order indicated by the number attached 
to each. 

14. Oalleria Lapidaria, or gallery of stone In- 
BCripUonS, founded by Pius VII., and classified 
by Marini, who died 1817. This is not at present 
open to the public. It contains above 5,000 
fiuieral inscriptions and memorials— Heathen and 

Christian— from the Tombs and Catacombs. 

In these, bad spelling occurs frequently: as 
»*mesc" or "mcses," for menses; "bise" or 
»»bizit," !oT vixit; "coiugi" for con>i^t, and such 
like; showing how illiterate the stonecutters 
were. The favourite monogram was a contraction 
of the Greekname of Christ, XP (or CHR), thus:— 



D 



^/^ 



or 



p 

7" 



or 




111 the third one, A and »t, for alpha and omega, 
are added; signifying that Christ is the beginning 
and the end of their faith. Another favourite 
symbol was a fish, tx^vs (ichthus), because made 
up of the five Greek initial letters of ** Jesus 
{Itl^svf^f Christ (;cf/#'T«f), Son of God (0uv 
Ttos), Saviour (2«t«;)." The allusion is ex- 
plained by a saying of tcrtullian, that we *' pesci- 
culi, secundum Ix^h, nostrum Jcsum Christum, in 
aqua nascimur." 

Bottles, lamps, palm branches, wreaths, Ac, 
which were supposed to be exclusively Christian, 
and to mark the grave of nmrtyrs, have been also 
found in Heathen and Jewish tombs. Other 
emblems were the dove, ark or ship, lyre, anchor, 
crown, palm, vhie. lamb, shepherd. 

Simple inscriptions are most common: — 
ra) LOCVS HERMETTISSE VIVO FECET 
(The place of Hermes. He made it in his lifetime). 

(b) CLAVD1AQVEVIXITANS18 PMQVIXQVAOINTA 

(Claudia, who lived fifty years, more or less). 

(c) ARETVSA 

IN DEO 
(Arcthusa. In God). 

(tO VICTORI NAIN 

PACE ET IN (monogram for Christ) 
(Victorina. In peace and in Christ). 

(e) INNOCINTVS INFANS 

ANIMA DVLCIS QVE VIXIT 
ANNIS VII. MENSES X. 

(lunocentius, an infant, sweet soul, who lived 
seven years and ten months). 

Another is dedicated to "Assertor, our dear, 
sweet, innocent, and incomparable son." 

Some beghi with "D.M.V." or "D.M.8.," 
(Sacred to the gods' manes), a form borrowed from 
heathen epitaphs. Several of the most striking 
are given in Letters XIV. to XX. of Doan 
Buroon's Letters from Home. 

Among the " Epitaphia dictionls singulaiis Chriht- 
iana " is the following:— 

CECILIVS • MARITVS • CECILIAE 
PLACIOINAE • COIVGI • OPTIME 
MEMORIAE • CVM • QVA • VIXI ANNIS X 
BENE • SE • NE • VLLA QVE • RELLA i^fyf 
(Cet:ilius, her husband, to Cecilia Placidina, my 
wife, of most excellent meznory, with whom I 
lived happily for ten years, without any quarrel). 
At the end is the favourite monogram of the early 
Christians. 

A dated inscription runs thus (it is scratched on 
a stone a few inches across): — 

BENEMERENTI 

INPACELIBERA 

QVEVIXIT • AN • Cli 

NEOFTA • DEPDIE. 

Ill NONAS MAIAS CON 

QiLA.TlA.KO III ETEQUITIO 



Route 32.] 



MODERN ROME — VATICAN MUSEUM. 



197 



'To the woll-deservlng Libera, in peace, who 
lived eight years a neophyte. Buried the third 
of the Nones of May; Qratianus, for the tliird 
time, and Equitius bchig Consuls), i.e., a.d. 374. 
The early Christian frescoes are as ru(ie as their 
sculptures and inscriptions. 

There is a curious and interesting? collection of 
specimens of gilt glass; most of which arc de- 
scribed in P. Garucci's " Vctri Antichi." They arc 
sometimes mounted in bronze, sometimes inserted 
in drinking cups, and sometimes they arc found in 
the graves. 

12. Aftueo Chiaramouti, entered from the Atrio 
Quadrato(Squure Vestibule), founded by Pius VII... 
whose surname was Chiaramonti, and who added, 
1817-22, the new gallery, or Braccio Nuovo, which 
crosses the great square of the Vatican, Raphael 
Stem being the architect. It is devoted to busts, 
bas-reliefs, and other antiques, and has a mosaic 
pavement. The objects in the Chiaramonti Corri- 
dor are placed in thirty compartments along each 
side; amongwhichare heads of Neptune and V'enus; 
bas-relief of a Gladiator, with the retiarius, &c.; 
Alexander the Great; Julius Coisar, as Pontifex; 
Borcophagusof C.Julius Evodus; Scipio Africanus; 
Venus Anadyomene (comhig out of the bath); 
Augustus, a fine bust found at Ostia ; Demosthenes; 
Cicero; Cupid of Praxiteles; Tiberius, a fine 
sitting figure ; Isis, a large bust, found in the Vati- 
can Garden ; Ganymede and the Eagle ; Colossal 
Hercules Sleeping, found at Villa Adriana; 
Daughter of Niobe; Satyr playing on a flute; 
Commodus; Antinous; iEsculapius; Nerva; Euri- 
pides; ifli Amazon ; Minerva ; and Mercury. 

13. Braeeio Nuovo (or New Arm). A long and 
handsome gallery, with its antique columns from 
the tomb of Cecilia Matella, aud a fine mosaic 
pavement. Here are Greek Caryatides, restored 
by Thorwaldsen. Two colossal masques of Medusa, 
from the Temple of Venus. Basalt Vase, in the 
middle of the room. Fine Statue of Demosthenes. 
The Athlete, Aporyomenos, at the end ; a fine statue 
found in Trastevere in 1849 (with the bronze horse 
at the Capitol), and supiwsed to be the work of 
Lysippus. Colossal allegorical * Statue of the 
River Nile, surrounded by sixteen little Infants, 
emblematical of its sources. Foimd in Leo X.'s 
reign, and supposed to be of the time of Adrian. 
" In a reclining posture, and sixteen of the love- 
liest little children in tlie world creeping almut 
him, which are emblematic of the rise of the river. 
Some *are i>laying at his feet with crocodiles; 
others creeping up the body; one perched on his 
shoulder, and another tiny elf higher up still, 
seated in a cornucopia, and evidently proud of his 
elevation ; whilst the giant is looking complacently 
on all."— Miss Catlow's Sketching Rambles. 

Minerva Medico, foimd in the sixteenth century ; 
one of the finest statues at Rome. Faun, of Praxi- 
teles. Mercury, in pentelic marble. Diana and 
Endymion. Apollo; the body and head were found 
at different times and in two different places. 

Tho group of buildings surrounding the Bel- 
Yedero Court, at tho north end of tbo Vatican, 



is called the Mmeo Fio-CfemenHno. On one 
side is Bramante's spiral staircase; on the other, 
the Circular Room of Simonetti. Founded (out of 
collections made by former Pontiffs) by Popes 
Clement XIII. and XIV., but especially by Plus 
VI., in whose reign most of the rooms were erected 
by Simonetti. It contains the world-renowned 
Apollo Belvedere, tho Laocoon, the Discobolus, 
and other celebrated statues. The Belvedere Court 
(so called from the view it affords) is octagonal, 
surromided by a i)ortico on sixteen granite columns 
and by four cabinets, in which the chief master- 
pieces are placed. It gives a kind of surname to 
some of them, as the Afiollo Belvedere, the Belve- 
dere Mercury, and so on, by which means they 
are distinguished from others. 

11. Square Vestibule. — Arabesques, by D. da Vol- 
terra. Torso Belvedere, by ApoUonius, supposed 
to be part of a Hercules, and remarkable for its 
muscular expression. It was greatly admired by 
M. Angclo. Tomb of Scipio Barbatus, great-grand- 
father of Scipio Africanus, with a bust crowned 
with laurels; both of peperino, or gray volcanic 
stone from the Alban Hills. When the tomb was 
opened, in 1781, the skeleton was found inside with 
a ring on the finger, which Pius VI. gave to Lord 
Algernon Percy. On the walls is an inscription 
beginning "CORNIiLIVS. LVCIVS. SCIPIO. 
BARBATVS. GNAIVOD. PATRE. PHOG- 
NATVS." Another begins "HONCOINO. PLO- 
IRVME. COSENTIONT. R . . . BVONORO. 
OPTVMO. FUISE. VIRO. LVCION. 8CIPI0NE. 
FILIOS. BARBATI . . . . " wlilch in book Latin 
would be, ** Hunc unum plurinii consentiunt Romo) 
bonorum optimum fuisse virum Lucium Scipiononi, 
filius Barbati . . . . " 

9. Hound Vestibule.— Here is a balcony enjoy- 
ing a fine prospect (Belvedere), with an ancient 
dial, on Which the points of the compass arc 
marked in Greek and Latin. 

10. Afe'eager Itoom, so called from the statue of 
Meleager, with his Dog and the Boar's Head; a 
group, white and fresh-looking, from the Baths of 
Titus. An ancient inscription commemorating the 
taking of Corinth by Mumniius, the Consul, 147 B.C. 

8. Belvedere Court contains four cabinets, and 
has at the entrance two Molossian dogs; in the 
centre a fountain. 1st Cabinet — The *LaOCOtf H, in 
the folds of the serpent, found 1506, on the Esquilinc, 
and styled by M. Angelo a "miracle of art." 
The arm of the father and the arms of the children, 
who are trying to extricate themselves, have been 
restored. 2nd Cabinet— The *ApOllO Belvedere, 
of (y'arrara niarble. found at Porto d'Anzio, or An- 
tium, and bought by Julius II. ; supposed to be of 
the time of Nero, and, in Canova*s opinion, to have 
been copied from a bronze statue. An arm was 
restored by Montosorli. 8rd Cabinet — The Perseus, 
with Medusa's Head, and tlio Creugas or two 
Boxers ; both by Canova. 4th Cabinet— Belve- 
dere Mercury, discovered in the reign of Paul III. 
1 he right arm and left hand are gone. Procession 
of priests. When the bigot A drian VL aft2<\ *^**- 
saw tlio V&tlca,vi«U.VaMkV% «s»I^^^nJokobi.'*>«*s^*^ 



198 



BBADSHAW'S ITALT. 



^Section 2. 



idols,** and ordered the Belvedere to be walled out 
ot sight. 

4. Room of Animal Htatuarif (Sala degll Ani- 
mali). raved with mosaics, and divided into two 
parts by a vestibule communicating with the Bel- 
vedere Court and the Hall of the Muses. Here 
arc several groups, chiefly Grecian, as— Marine 
•Centaur and a Nereid ; Lion tearing a Man ; Table 
and Cup of greenstone: Hercules killing Diomedes 
and his Horses; CommoduH on hoi*scback; large 
Lion in grey marble. 

6. Statue GaUenj (Gallerla dclle Statue). -Cupid, 
by Praxiteles; sometimes culled the Vatican 
Genius. Apollo 8auroct<mo8, by Praxiteles, found 
1777, on the Palatine. Posidippus and Menander, 
formerly in the Church of 8. Lorenzo, in Panis- 
pcma, where they were worshipped as saints. 
Ariadne Sleeping. Two very fine Candelabra, from 
Villa Adri.ina. An Amazon. 

6. Bust iZoom.— Several Emperors. <tc.., all re- 
stored, more or less: with a colossal Jupiter. 

7. Oabinet of Masks (Gabinetto dclle Maschere). 
—Paved with mosaics from Villa Adriana ; and 
contains some pictures, with groups of masks, a 
Venus at the Bath, Faun in red marble, fine Adonis, 
and other anti(]ues. 

3. Hall of the Muses, an octagon room, supported 
by sixteen marble pillars, with ancient capitals 
from Villa Adriana. Here are the Muses— Thalia, 
Polyhymnia, Ac, found at Tivoli, 1774; also 
.<Escliines, Demosthenes, Aspasia, Pericles, Ac. 

2. Round Room (Sala Rotnnda), con.stnicted like 
most of the buildings at this end of the Vatican, 
by Pius VI. A handsome room, lit by six windows, 
with a mosaic pavement found at Otricoli, and a 
fine porphyry basin from the Baths of Titus, 44 
feet round. Among the busts and statuary are 
Jupiter; heads of Tragedy and Comedy, from 
Villa Adriana; Augustus sacrificing; Antinous; 
J)acchus and a Satyr; Barberlni Juno. Here 
Pio Nino placed the Mattal Hercules, a fine gilt 
bronze statue, found 1864, under an old palace, 
near the Campo dei Fiori and the Faniesc Palace, 
and given by its owner to Pius IX. It is 12 feet 
high, and has the hair in a net. Coins of Domitian 
were discovered with it. 

1. Oreek Cross Room (Sala a Crocc Grcca), so 
called from its shape, as built by Simonetti. It 
has a portico of Egyptian granite, and is adorned 
« with ancient mosaics and arabesques. Here are a 
red porphyry sarcophagu.s, from the tomb of Con- 
Htantine's daughter, near the Church of S. Agnese, 
outside the walls. Another sarcophagus of the 
Empress Helena, with bas-relief of a battle. Venus 
of Praxiteles, supposed to be copied from the 
Venus on coins of Cnidus ; it is covered with a 
drapery of metul. 

Up stairs is the Biga Chamber (Sala della 

Blga), a circular room, so called from the marble 

Biga, or antique two-horse car, which stands In 

f//e m/ddlo. Here is the Discobolus, or quoit player, 

^^P^ed from that of Myron, from ViUfl. Adriana. 

y^e iicMd and an arm are modem restorations. 



Candelabra Gallery, on the second storey, built 
by Pius VI. Among the candelabra, sarcophagi, 
columns, «fec., are a sarcophagus, with bas-reliefs of 
Protcsilaus and Laodamia. This Is In line with the 
Gallery of Tapestries, containing the old tapestries 
executed from Raphaors cartoons, which are here, 
(18 out of 25 being originals) and accessible from 
the Candelabra Gallery (see page 19fi;. 

For the following, ofien only on Thursday, 9 to 
8, no special permit is now required. 

Egyptian Museum, entrance from the Greek 
Cross Room, close to the steps. Founded by Pius 
VII. and Gregor>- XVI. It contains colossal statues 
in granite, sarcophagi, &c. 

AI)ove the Egyptian Museum (mounting the 
staircase Ica'iing to the Sala della Biga) Is 

Pope Gregory's Etruscan Museum, founded by 
Gregory XVI., and opened 1837. To be seen every 
Thursday, from 9 to 3, accompanied by the cus- 
tode. This is a large and interesting collection. In 
twelve rooms, of early Italian antl({uttles recently 
discovered In the Etruscan cities, Vulci, Veil, Ac, 
the principal remains of which arc described in 
Mr. G. Dennis's Cities and Cemeteries of Etruria, 
1848. Some were found buried under currents of 
lava. The collection Includes Etruscan portraits, 
urns, tombs (erne from Comet o, the ancient Tar- 
qulnil, has an Inscription In Latin and Urabrian), 
vases of yellow and red colour, and elegant shape, 
cups, dishes (or tazze), bronze figures, domestic 
utensils and oniament.s, some of very delicate pat- 
tern, copies of Etruscan paintings, &c. One design 
Is a picture of three legs joined together, like the 
arms of the Isle of Man. Note spccldll^ in one 
room, a restoration of an Etruscan sepulchre ; in 
another, a Mercury In tcrra-cotta. 

The famous Vatican Library (Blblioteca) is open 
Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday; no 
special pertnesso required. It Is entered by a glass 
door at the bottom of the staircase of the Sala a 
Croee Greca. It was founded by Nicholas V., 
who began with 7,000 M8S., but was neglected till 
Sixtus IV. set apart a sum for its maintenance. 
It occupies the long west gallery, as well as a 
branch across the interior courts. This brancli, 
constructed In 1588, by Sixtus IV., and ornamented 
with frescoes by Gaetanl, «fec.. Is 216 feet long; 
while the great gallery Is nearly 1,000 feet, ter- 
minated by the nmscum of Christian Antiquities 
and a fine staircase at <me end, and by ihe Profane 
Museum at the other end. It contains a malachite 
Christ and Vase, from the Emi>cror of Rasaia, with 
several other vases ; and Is adorned by frescoes; 
It has the French Prince Imperial's christening 
font. The walls, <fcc., are covered with arabesques. 

The MS8 . in which this llbraiy Is peculiarly 
rich, now number al)out 26,000 Latin, (jreek, and 
Oriental, shut up in bookcases. Among the Ori- 
ental MS3. are seventy-one Ethiopian, ten Chinese. 
The 2U0.O00 printed books are In the Boi^a 
Rooms, special permesso, see page 199. Among the 
mo.st remarkable M8S. are : — a Greek Bible of 
the third or fourth century, called the Codex 
Faticcmut. It Is a quarto volume in red moroeoo^ 



Route 32.] 



MODERN ROME — ^VATICAN, QUIRINAL. 



199 



ftbont 4J inches thick, and was printed in 1857 by 
C'nrdinal Mai. Illustrated Virgil, of fifth century. 
Terence, of the eighth century. Petrarch's Rime, 
Part of Tasso's Gertualemme. Cicero's Republic, 
a palimpsest deciphered by Cardinal Mai. Henry 
VIII.'s MS. book on the Sacraments, written aj^ainst 
Lutlicr, for which he received the title of Fidei 
Defensoi' (Defender of the Faith). Henry VIII.'s 
letters to Anne Boleyn ; which ai*c always shown 
to English visitors. Luther's MSS. Illuminated 
Virgil, of the fourth or fifth century. Dante's 
Divina Commedia, illuuiinated. Gregory Nazian- 
jEcn'sHomllic3,inumlnated, of ihe eleventh century. 
Four Gospels, of the tenth century, illuminated. 

7%c Profane Museum^ with the exception of a 
very fine bronze head of Augustus, contains 
notiiing very remarkable. In a Cabinet at the end 
arc various metal ornaments; with part of a 
Komaii barge, found at the bottom of Lake Nemi. 

Sacred Mnteunu or Museum of Christian An- 
tirjnities, founded l)y Benedict XIV. It contains 
various articles used by the early Christians in 
their rites, as lamps, chalices, rings, cups, vases, &c. 
An ivory bas-relief of the Descent from the Cross, 
designed by M. Angelo. Some curious early paint- 
ings on wood. In distemper, by Greek or Byzantine 
masters; one is a portrait of Charlemagne. 

Papyrus Cabinet (Stanza de' I'apiri), containing 
documents of the fifth to the eighth centuries, on 
papyrus. Frescoes, by Mengs. The decorations 
of the room are all Egyptian. 

Room of Byzantine, and Early Italian Masters. 
Specimens of Margharitone, Cimabue, Giotto, Ma- 
saccio, Fra Angelico, &c., collected by Gregory 
XVI. 

Aldobrandini Chamber^ so called from a re- 
markable ancient painting, the Marriage of Peleus 
and Thetis, found 1G06, in a Roman house on the 
E.squiline, and sold by Cardinal Aldobrandini to 
IMus VII., for the large sum of 10,000 crowns. 
Prior to the discovery of the Battle of Issus and 
other subjects at Pompeii, it was regarded as an 
almost unique specimen of Roman art, and was 
valued accordingly. It is on stucco, and contains 
ten figures in three groups, done with great merit 
in respect of composition, drawing, and colour. 
Some other paintings of equal antiquity, found 
1830, in Via Qraziosa, are seen here. The roof has 
frescoes, by Guido. Tavo chairs of wood and ivory, 
presented to Pio None by the bishops of Etruria. 

The Cabinet of Medals is not now shown to 
strangers. Some of the rarest specimens were 
stolen 1848-9. 

Borgia Apartments; four rooms now full of 
printed books, but fonnerly the residence of Alex- 
ander VI. (Borgia). They are decorated with stuc- 
coes, by Q. da Udine and P. del Vaga ; frescoes, by 
Pinturicchio, and ancient bas-reliefs. Permesso 
from one of the prefects of the library. 

The Studio del Mosaico is under the Gallciy of 
Iiisciiptions ; entrance in the left angle of 'the 
Cortile S. Damaso. A permesso must be obtained 
B.t the Sacristv. 

Vatican Manvfaetory of MOSalOS. — '* Two 



long rooms are devoted to it, with presses on each 
side containing the materials used, which are a kirtd 
of earthenware manufactured for the purpose, and 
not stones of various colours as we had supposed ; 
that being the case at Florence. They are, however, 
in shades and colours of all kinds. Each artist en- 
gaged had before him a rather coarse but spirited 
paint hig of a Pope, whose likeness he was taking 
for the new Church of St. Paul; and this he copied 
in mosaic as closely as the nature of the material 
allowed him; fixing small and properly-shaped 
pieces of the earthenware into a cement, which is 
previously laid on to the portion he can execute 
i before it dries. It seemed most tedious work; for 
' ovcrj' piece has to be selected of the proper shape 
and size, and fitted into those that have been 
arranged before it. As these heads of the Popes 
were to be placed very high in the new church, they 
were large and coarse : but one man was making a 
copy of Murillo's beautiful picture of St. Catherine ; 
another, of Raphael's Madonna della Seggiola; 
which were much finer and more tedious. These 
would take several years to execute — the single 
heads about twelve months each; but the larger 
pictures in St. Peter's are not completed under 
twenty years "—Miss Cxtlovt'h Sketching Rambles. 

Vatican Gardens (Giardini Pontifici). — That 
part of the interior court, between the Bracio 
Nuovo and Museum, is called the Giardino della 
Pigna, from a large bronze pine, which came from 
the Tomb of Hadrian. It contains two bronze 
peacocks, and other antiquities. The larger garden 
is to the west of the Library, and sloping up the 
Vatican hill to the city walls. It contains the 
Villa Pia, or Casino del Papa, built for Pius IV., 
by P. Ligorio, in the style of an antique villa, and 
restored by Leo XII. These are now closed. 
QUIRINAL AND LATERAN PALACES. 

Quirlnal Palace (al Qulrlnale), at Monte 
Cavallo, the residence of King Umberto, or 
Humbert I., and his wife Margherita. It was 
fonnerly a summer residence of the Pope, who 
now retains Castcl Gandolfo, in the environs, for 
a comitry retreat. Begun, 1674,. by Gregory XIII., 
from the designs of F. Ponzlo, and completed by 
Mascherino and I). Fontana. That part called 
the Famiglia is the work of Bernini and Fuga. 
Open on presentation of visiting card. When the 
Royal family are in residence, the private apart- 
ments are not shown. 

The principal court is 503 feet (?) long, and 
surrounded by a portico on three of its sides. It 
contains some choice paintings by great masters. 
Thorwaldscn's bas-relief of the Triumph of Alex- 
ander; pieces of Gobelins tajHistry; also frescoes 
l)y All)ano, with Guide's Annunciation, in the prl- 
vatechapcl. Thelargegardenbehlndthepalacewas 
added by Urban VIII. It contains a kind of musi- 
cal fountain, made by jets of water; and a Casino, 
by Fuga. 

The name is derived from the Quirinus, or Temple 
of Romulus, which stood on the hill opposite the 
gardens. In front is the Piazza del QjHrbx'^.lft.x 
with its obell6k^4.&l^^ Vvs^\ ^^s^<«s^<tkVs^»&9&s!c> 



in ConcU'B (ie., locked 



. Cudtnsl Cbamtx!! 



lullan md Bfty-flvc yoars old. Two-lhlrd. o( 
the Csrdtmli miut el«cl him ; bnt Fninee, Aiu- 
trls, wid Biwin hnve each ■ yMo on one nmnc. 
When OngoTy XVI. wtu choMm the Ciirdiiinl> 
fekd boeo lilting (or fifty dB)>, wltnoot couiiim 



'i, qol nomt^ anntujwlt Gregorliu 



lAttron palAce uid Hnaevm, ndjoining 
Church of St. JohnUlerantS.Qlovuimi hi I.aten 

nntl altonrarda tIeMrted. QreRory XVI. begui 



XVI„ lor 

Caracillii . '8r«tuc"of'a't!H55o! jTu-, bl^h^'ln'lllo 
third centnr;. Pilntlngi from the Caticnmln 
(eopien). Among the oalnlliiffe are — Gncrclno'B 
AiiuniMlon: O. Hc>nuna-> Martyrdom ot St. 
Stephen 1 F. F, Upnl'i Coronolloi. of the Virgin; 
A. del Sano't Holy Vamily, 

Tho'Miatiiiini/ChrUliaii AallqulHafnalrajictto 
the right in the coort, tee, 60 cvnll) wat formed 
byPopePln>IX,lnl8M.nnd l» a '"y hucrost- 
Ing collection ot earcophagl. (rctcoei. and lincrlp- 

famniu ttatne of 'S. Hipmlylia, the mat^, i^ 
dlKlpleofS. IrenailiAkandmihopot ForluB. in the 
tarlier part of the third century. Portiu was the 
aaitAarr/ tuoatb vt thb Tll}ar, vhere a tower ot 
to» OiarcH of at. HIppolytai etttl remnlni. The 
"rtieMtatne. probably tho oldest CAritllaa italnc 



ID the Vatican by Flui IX. It 
dreined Id a palllnm, and !■ 
reck Inscrlptlont on the chair, 
a lott trealiee of 8. Hlppolyloe 
the Convent of Honnt Alhut, 



of HippolytuB Ifl thifl epitaph t 

"BELLICIAFF.DBLISSIMAVIRGOjMPACE 
QVEVIXIT ANNOe XVIII.' 



8EPTEMBRES 




I llie linpruprlety ot their 

At llie ft»t ot the Menn are two EeiTHIan I,lgn>> 
eoplet of iboM placed there hyPlni IV. Cuional 
ilalocn (Ml the tm) of the Twhi Brethren, Caitor 
■ml PollDX. and their bo^se^ tonnd In the Ghetto, tn 

^e., called the TropMcs ot Harlni. found on tiM 
Etqullliie. Stitneeof Cunttaiithic and hli »n, froin 
"■-■-.thiiofCon.tantluo. Ainmnry(ormllo)iton« 
llie Aj^anWajr, marked 






CtinHrrotorl (or Alilermcii). i 

■ iwor tlirs GniiurT(t<>r°Piil<ic< 
I the Capltullna >■ oecnplod li 



wuthewor 
nt SIxtiB V. 



and the C&pltoUll* 

Aiigiflo. StslDO o( BooiB. HeiidOr DoirllIan,or 
Commodiu. 

fra/a, irltb ■ fittgrnent of an nncLi-nt hisci Litti^in of 
UiB tboe of anndlii-. Blsliie of Chnrlrg of AiOou, 



irrnturl of tba cltT- Trtf- 

imilaiw, <■■-. chruDolaslcal 

_ .. Ae„ fruu (Iw Tiufidliili 1o 

■r lUe Cbimli of Rmiii Hnrla 



lllnstriou luIlanK. piintcr^ pocli, innal 



IK H. A. Cole 
Seven! *ro by Ciu»tii, 



Imlml who fonghl 



toCiiiun,b)'PHbrls, 



A Llltrr. HaU cu 



JMl 9f etaluei. 



roV,urWo1( 
■nd Reronii tbcio flicinn ore inoi 
■ woH li inppoHd to be tho ore ipoken 



Up n 



V {Plam 



lundDd bf Benedict XIV. AiuoD? so: 
thlniriiiroaPnrlrallnf aiildo.br hlmuir. Guldu'i 
DeBtlHeri Spirit ucendliiff to Piriullw. GDerdno'i 
aibilla Pcrtku. Vrluqun, by hlnwir. P. da 
Curtona'ii Rapq or the Safiineiiand hl> Itnttk of Ar- 
bold. Claude^i two LAnd«Bpn». Gucrdno'iiBiihtit 
PolroncIlH. A1lMiio'i.mrtliottJn Virgin. Tlllan'i 
UapttiuD of Clirlftt. P. Veronese's Rape of Europa. 

Ijinvlnj t he Palazio del CunsoITilori. we oniM I he 
1'lnxia, and eiiler tlie HUMIUn Of tlM CullaL 
Foiu«le.l by Clement XII, and .occepdiBiTRie-, 
O|>FU.10tog, feel Urn. In thocourlinlhe jrin:/;>rto. 
a rfrcr god. found In IJio Via dl Marforio. It ira« 



narble, wlih babrcllcfi of the hunt of the Catydo- 
lianbnnr. Inthiiwaaloinid IhafanniuBarberlnl, 
ir Ponland Va«,now«tilieDolteiir Ponlnnd'j 
wat.Knpland. acvrralCne Ria>idci.fauiiddarlnK 

be roecnt oxen vat Ioihl I nve fteently b«en pl««a 



an andenl Plan of Boiuo, fuund uniUr tin portico 
of tho Temple uf Veuue ud Boine (the CbUTh of 
IM. Coenut and Uanilano), near the fomm, and 
PUiipqwd tu he of the thne of t'araoalla. It elBiwa 
tbeniBitinnauf tlie Oetarlan Porllm, tbs Emillin 
Bwlllcn. Jnlla Baiillea, Ulptau Ba^lca, Balhiof 
Tltiu. UnrecIlUB Theatre, lliealro of Tinnpey, ice. 
Emprrorf SBeiu ^Cunlnlnlng aothenttc hi 






o Jnllaii the J 



uo of Aerln>lna hi I he n 

Dm g/7»iutWsiu J<rH— Iiiclndinspue 

lofollioreminoiitnH'n. Manyaroauoii 

lublfnl. Slulne of M. C. MatteUD>. 

. rooH.— Hecuba, aa a Prcflca.ormounie 

phtr. in blaek marble; Contaurs, in gray m 

Xoom eflhi /Viaa.—Soenlleil from a Faun 
nriile.fruin Villa Adrlana; Child, with a 



crafTheteutalHl 



ly nainii 



Roem a/Uu! •Dylns CO 

llic faniuDK BtatnelTa Outh of tli 
Balluit'i Villa, perfect for itinnatoiiiy. Tin 
■nntoa re«lonilloi>l>y M.Anpelo. "II Itmarve 
■Imide, beamlful. and full of exprrnlou. Tl 
l( abnlDtgly bn«tUB%,KD& -]<»■ «i^%\>e 



la mun M[r—llla CaUfu. 



vfthe Capitol. Fiiui uf fiHiltrlen. 

In ths ConlioT, But nM. Iiuxlv dik] Mntuti. 

CoAtiid.— Vbiiii at tli« Cii^tol, In Fmlclle nuu' 
lilc; Cu|>id ami Piyclie: Lcilu miil Ihc Swaii 

tlia work of SoinL 

TOaLOHIA HUSEUH (TrutaTere). 

Thli HFdeidl.) oolircllon of M!n1pl•ln^ nrndc b, 
rrtiiuTorlonUi, rank! next lo that oCtlwViitlcaii 

catijogue, lijr Vitcontl. Iml lu (liltnri, ITn 
fuitgnslgly thli Dagi?tBe«nl miuemu liatiiroiFn 



fop™ daLly, 

nipetiiOly nrehlnloric 
PrsBHK. 'rbc Itltilk 
iiliaatfOa.OIKlToluine-, 






KlrcherUnc 



PALAOZB (FU8LIC AND PEITATB) AMD 
VILLAS. 

fnrain Albanl. In Via dclle Quattm Kontane. 

Fol-diorly (be pmiwrty of qurtii Maria C]irL.Una. 

Paiam Aliihviiditii. In Via ai Qulrlnale, a 

Slito, and thsChnrcli of S.eilvotro. Thoy occupy 

/•o'lumAllaiim, In Plana SApoillnart. facing 
St. AiKlIlDiraChnrch. BdIH IESIi. bv M. LnniibJ 
the sidar. aud It. Pcrniil. Tl» chapel conlnliu 
a Virgin on wood, by ftaphat]. If ' --■-■ - ' ■' - 

-■ — '— -■ "TpaAnlcetr- ■- ' 

. Open 17 



/* n/ niull-work), which flfOTO in the 



'a ITU.T. [SMttM S- 

Palaiit Barbrrint, VU dell* Qoattro Fontue, 
one of the Inrgol In Rome, on tho >IU of tba 
Ti-miilcuin.irn; a loree and pictoreaqno bollil- 
Inr, bcicunaboul ie», ^T CudlDsl F. Biirl>erlnL 
Tho tecpiwd lafado, in lliree Moreji, !• by Butro- 

Gallcry n( PlctnrB^ In Ihrea room% open lilo ». 
Notice Ha phael'K Famarina^ Portrait of Beatrice 



in1nel|ia1 ■nlocii 






ne •TriDinpta ol 



sa Borgheie, Via della 



aw, by M. Longhi, tor Can 
liiiihed by F Poniio. The arc. 



of Ihe VoUcan, wai Iran.ferred In 1891 to the 
vaia Borghiit, see pans 206. Open Tneadara, 
Thunda;>. and aatnrdnfi, 1 to 4, admliilon. 1 Urn. 

tralliota cirdliial, and of CBMr Borgia, allrtWed 
to Haphael, EntonitHucnl. by Haphacl. palnttd 
when hs wBi only IWQity-foari Francla'a Bt. 
tjtepbcii; Portrait of Kaphaol. by T. d'Urblnoi 
Garofalo'a Madonna. Dinie. by ComKBlo; IM 
Ploulw'i Chrirt at the Colnmni Cumcan SlbTl, 
byDoinailcliIno; Diana Hunting, by Domnlehtnoi 
Aliiana'a Heaionii Holy Family, by Fra Bartohnf 
mooi ditto, by Dsl Sarto: P. PotHr'i Cattlai 
Pmicon and AralHuqaei, doabtlnlly attribute 

CalalognM tor the naeof vliHort in ea 

/•o/nm Bonaparle (formerly Blnoecinl). at th* 
comer of Ihe 6or«> and Plana Vtntila. bnltt, 



■litaapUlanofOrlatalttdgianlte. Atai 



BoQte 32.] 



MODEBM ROME — ^PALACES. 



SOS 



of the palace is the old mutilated statue, called 
Pasquino^ from nn cpiprrammatic tailor who lived 
close by. and from wlwm we get the word pa»qui- 
linde. " III his shop the wits of the city used to 
meet, to gossip over the events of the day. After- 
wards, tlie Uomans attached to the pedestal of this 
statue any witticism they wished to circulate, 
either on political or social sut)jects; the replies 
being placed on another statue (Marforio) near the 
Forum. Wlien this latter was removed to the 
muf^eum of the Capitol, the Pope ordered Pasquiiio 
t.) bo carried away also; but the owner of the 
palace objecting to its removal, it has over since 
remained, and is still occasionally used as an organ 
of public opinion." 

Palazzo Caffarelli, Piazza Ar^coeli, rear the 
Capitol ; the seat of the German Embassy. 

Cancellaria (Palazzo della), ne.\t to 8. Lorenzo in 
Damaso, between Piazza Navona and Piazza Far- 
nese; the seat of the Cardinal Vice-Chancellor. 
Built by Bramante, for Cardinal Riario, and cited 
as one of the best works of the architect ; but the 
portico was added by Fontana, of travertine taken 
from the Colosseum, Ac, 300 feet long, 85^ feet high, 
in three storeys, the lower being rusticated, the 
two upper ornamented with plain pilasters. The 
portico is supported by four granite pillars, taken 
from the old Church of S. Lorenzo in Damaso, and 
supposed to have been part of the Theatre of 
Pompoy. In 1848 it was occupied by the Roman 
Parliament ; and it was on the steps that the Chan- 
cellor Rossi was assassinated on 15th November. 

Palazzo CWici, near the old Ghetto, on the site of 
the Theatre of Balbus, now called Palazzo (Jenci- 
Bolognetti \ lately restored, but cut up into sets of 
i^)artment8, tenanted by separate families. 

Palazzo Chigi, on one side of Piazza Colonna. 
Built by G. della Porta and C. Madcnio. A gal- 
lery of pictures and library; admission, 10 to 12, by 
special permesso, through a consul. Among the 
MSS. are letters of Henry VIII. and Melanchthon. 

Palazzo Colonna, Piazza del SS. Apostoli, known 
by the Column in the arms over the gate. A Doric 
colonnade in the court contains an allusion to 
the family name, one of the most ancient and illus- 
trious in Rome, styled by Petrarch the Glorious 
Column, on whicli Italy rested her hope. Built 
by Martin V. Three or four bridges over the Via 
Delle-Connelle unite the house to the gardens slop- 
ing up the Quirinal. Gallery open Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday, |fr. Notice: — portrait 
of Vittoria Colonna, by Muziano ; another Colonna, 
by Vandyke; Titian's 0. Panvino; Bonifacio's 
Holy Family; ivory bas-reliefs, copied from M. 
Angelo and Raphael, (ireat Hall, or Galleria — 
Frescoes in honour of the Colonna family; Titian's 
Holy Family; Portrait, by P. Veronese; Gior- 
gione's G*. S. Colonna; the Colonna Belliea, vfith 
a figure of Mars on it, a small twisted Gothic 
pillar of medisBval times. Entrance, 17, Via Archi 
della Pilotta. In the gardens (entrance. Via del 
Qnirinale, 12) are remains which belonged to the 
Baths of Ccmttantine. on the Quirinal. 



Palazzo della Con$vltii^ on Monte Cavallo. Built 
by Fuga, in the eighteenth century. Now the 
Ministry of the Exteiior. 

Palazzo Corsini, now Accademia dei Lineei, in 
the Via Limgara, in Trastevere. Built by the 
Riari family, and enlarged by Fuga, for Clement 
XII. Gallet'tf in nine rooms, open Monday, 
Tuesday, and Saturday, 9 to 3. Portraits 
by Titian, Vandyck, Holbein, «kc. ; Raphael's 
Fomarina; C. Dolci's Virghi and Child ; Mnrillo's 
Virgin and Child; A. del Sarto's Virgin and Child. 
Paintings by Guido, Guerclno. Ac; Titian's Charles 
Vll.'ssons; S. Rosa's four Battle-pieces. Jjand- 
scapes by Poussin, Claude, Canaletto. Full cata- 
logues, in French and Italian, in each room. Very 
extensive and valuable library and fine collection 
of engravings. Open daily, in the afternoon, 
except Sunday and Wednesday. 

*Palazzo Doria-Pamfili, in the Corso. Alargre 
palace, begun by Cardinal Santorlo, and which 
came at length, through the Pamfili family, to the 
Dorias of Genoa. The' fapade, by Borromini, 
though absurd and overcharged, looks grand 
from the Corso. The Court is said to be by 
Bramante. Qallery of nearly 800 paintings, iu 
fifteen rooms. Notice :— portraits of Lucrezia 
Borgia, by P. Veronese; of Machiavelli, by A. 
del Sarto; Jansenius and A. Doria, by Titian; 
Andrea Doria. by S. del Piombo ; Innocent X., by 
Velasquez; of Bartolo and Baldi, by Raphael; 
Sassoferrato's Holy Family; two fine Claudes; 
Titian's Abraham and Isaac ; A. Carracci's Dead 
Christ; and Da Vinci's Joan of Aragon. Land- 
scapes by Pousshi, Titian, A. Carracci, Ac. 
Catalogue in each room. Fee, 50 cents. Open 
Tuesday and Friday morning only; in case either 
of these is a holiday, then the next day. 

Palazzo Falconteri, in Via del Fontanone. near 
Via Giulia. Built .ly Borromini. Cardinal Fesch, 
the brother of Napoleon, died here. 

*Palazzo Farnese^ in Piazza Famese, near the 
Tiber, one of the largest and best designed palaces 
in Rome, now belonging to France, by purchase 
from the ex-Ring of Naples ; on a space, 260 feet 
by 190 feet, designed by Sangallo, for Cardinal Far- 
nese (Paul III.). It is now the French Embassy. 
The principal front, built 1544, in three storeys, of 
simple design, Is 190 feet long, 97 feet high, and 
is of brick, faced with travertine from the Colos- 
seum, Ac; its fine cornice is by M. Angelo. 
Bold and deep arcades, surrounded by a square 
court (90 feet each way), by M. Angelo ; it con- 
tains a sarcophagus of the second century, found 
in the tomb of Cecilia Metella ; but the Famese 
Bull, Hercules, Ac, which adorned it, are at Naples. 
Some rare statues from this collection, as the 
Mercury Diadymenos, Faun and Infant Bacchus, 
Apollo, Ac, were sold to the British Museum. 
Delia Porta finished the palace in 1589, by adding 
the loggia at the back. 

The Qallery^ 63 feet long, is remarkiU>le for the 
Ae*»«oftbetwoC«jn:e«R,V>%»Na^fc^\n''sya«»s8^.^^ 



undGnldD. AuiiEbaleCimulworkiidiitlieinror 
elglLtyfluif And nceLved only AOOcruwiii from hit 
emplajcn. Tha inUjeEli an all mythuloglcsl. 
The ball I>7 Zuccarl, V«url. He. TliB l-nlaca It 
nol now acecitlble to Ihc orilbiary public, lii Ibo 
Pluu raEln; the piilaeii are two hanilionie fouii- 
tabu, with St. Brlgllla'j Hoipllal aiid Cbapcl, for 



hnnl by, near Iho Can 
r Villa Cblfrt, on Iho 



ri^ini, aflerwanuminffht by Cardinal A. 
Here are 11m eelebratcd Iwi>!to '/V 
BmluKl, palulcd fruiu hit dciliiiiH. Iij- S. 



t 1314. CelJIiig. 






byM. Angelcli 

Rben bo called to we •uiiorra. ii i> 
'vltltEng oard." OtbetpalntliigB«i»yB.l*c 
lDltoniano.andaodoiiia. Upai oiily on I 

_ rtvOn.liH.onanatl 

Ed HontE Glurdniio, wltb a iir<>lly foi 



Paliaa OabHtlH. to 
hill, 

one or the best worke of Braninntv. In (ho ityle of 
the Cnueellaria, alio by hiini boughl by Prbicc 

^FalatadiGrm Brellagna (Rngllili Embany), 
near Porta Plaj a tory hnndsoHmiillc comnleled 
1«TR: compoied of Villa TurlonU.linllt 17M. by 
rinnlni, lor Cardinal Valonl), nllh maUem iiMl- 
tloiu by RaifBi, Lnclndbie a Una pnliiteit tlalrcaao, 
uloon. and a belmdere, or mil-room, UTt. by SKi., 
adomtd with freacoca. 

Paliaim BlaMtiml. Via dc'la ScroTa. Built 
by Pontana aiMl Hnri^HnliiL mi the alio of Nora's 
Batha. 
■till line 



IK conn. The family eaifle 



Hademot bnttln i»rllca !• ItouiDnlchlnai. I 
pHvaio npartnunla i> iha famoni JMsenMiu 
LanU, near Plaixa S. EnMachio. The work a 



dci Linai (Acadenil 



h«8«l«ta,orlIppcrI' 



tbesai 

A fpniit^Ti Injho cuiltt i« 

(ho FalVll'M. 



fnoade bai a portico of rii. plllani. 

tho cuutt l« ol later date. ChaMl 

PbUlp Nerl, open Kt h Mareh. Tlio fanll)- 



In RiiDic, near thla pdaci 

St. ADguillno'B ••CltUaltD. 

Palaaa UallH, iM^lwecn V 



;. Fontano. ISSO, It 

irlio Rave It hlH name. II l> on the >ite of llie 

ho tiglit tide la the Parllnmeiit Honae Cor Iho 
^irer ClMmber. Camera do' Uepntatl. 

Pa'orn (MHesMi fannerly Braeelano, oppoello 
he Cliureh of the SH. Anostoll. near Ihe Conw. 

rjlh*!! marijie ^llcry. 



with i 



.w. Thli was orlgiiialiy 

>lll family, 

a. Apieae Church. In the 



Pa'nne PamfiH. 

inocmt X., by Babialdl. ie5'>, with'a painted 
_jl11ns by P. da Oortona. Notlco the family 
(lour-ilo-lls In tho capltala. It la now Iho properly 

/■n'mw pto. Bear Plazu dl Campi) dl narc and 

..10 Teiniilo of Venus "hhdi formed part of the 





yoB/M™. 


or Papal Palaco 


(Soe Ihe 


IWn.», pase IM.) 






Ite of the 


Rt.plgli^ 


nX'iitr^r 


byPonilo 


or Cardl 


a° si." Ho 


Ihoao. and enla 


eied by C. 


lailemo i 


rCardhtal 


Maiatla. Itwa 


thoaeatof 




Euilway 


thelailconiurv 
Palace. Guldo' 




omo*allo 


theColonii 


eelebratod 



Eonte 32.*] 



UOME — PALACES, OLD HOU8E8. 



205 



fresco of * Aurora U in the ceiling of a pAvilioit in 
tho garden, with a looking-glass below to reflect it. 
To bo seen, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. 
"1 often visit it. It is a picture, the very tyjxj of 
haste and impetus; for surely no man ever 
imaghied such hurry and tumult, such sounding 
and clashing. Painters maintain that it is lighted 
from two sides: they have my full permission to 
light theirs from tiiree if it will improve them; 
but the ditTerence lies elsewhere." — (Aletidelssohn ) 
The horses are tho favourite bronze col.iur of the 
Ujrghesc family. 

Palazzo Jiiupoli, on the Corso, opiMsitc Via dei 
Condotti. Built, lt8(», by B. Amnuinati, a Floren- 
tine. The grand staircase, of 115 marble stops, 
by the younger M. Lunghi. It is admired for 
its simple Florenthic style. It now contains a 
icstiuraut. 

Pa'azto Sacchetti, in Via Glulia, built by Sangallo 
for his own residence; with an inscription, "Tu 
mihi quodcumque hoc rerum est," referring to his 
obligations to his patron, Paul III. 

Palazzo Salviuti, in tlie Lungara, in Trastevere, 
near the Botanic Garden (Orto Botanico). Built 
by N. dl Uacio Bigij, in the Florentine style. 

* Palazzo Sciarra(notoi\ vii w). hi Piazza Sciarra, 
in the Corso. Built by A. Ponzio, with a good 
Doric marble gate. A collection of pictures, in 
four rooms. Auiong these are Titiairs ]\Iadonna 
and Bella Donna ; Claude's Fight into E^fypt; da 
Vinci's Modesty and Vanity contrasted : Kaphaers 
Violin Player; Guido's Maddalenc dellc lladice, 
so called from the roots she cuts; Titian and liis 
Family, by Titian. 

Close to this, in the Corso, in 1G4I, Urban VIII. 
found, at the depth of 18 feet, remains of tlie Arcii 
of Claudiau, erected by that emperor in honimr of 
his conquests in Britannia. A medal (with a figure 
of tho arch) is in the Vatican. (8eo Palazzo 
BM'berini, page 202). 

Palazzo Simonetti, not now on view, in the Corso, 
facing the Church of 8t. Marcellus. 

P'ilazzo Sord, near the Cliurch of Santa Maria 
dclla Pace. Supjwsed to have been built by 
Bramante. 

"Palazzo Spada, Via Capo di Ferro. U known 
by the niched statues in its front. Built by G. 
Mazzoni, and rebudt by Borromhii. The Wars of 
the Centaurs are seen in bas-relief. Gallery in live 
rooms, open three days of the week. Here is the 
famous colossal *8latue of Pompey, found 165-', near 
the C:mcelleria, and supposed to bo that before 
which Ciesar was killed — 

" And thou, dread statue, yet exUtcnt iu 
The austerest fonn of iiaked majesty ; 
Thou, who beheldest mid the aasauina' din. 
At thy httthed base the bloody Ciesar lie."— /?jf on 

When found, there was a dispute as to tho owner- 
ship, upon which the courts ruled that it should be 
divided; one claimant to have tho hoad and 
another tho trunk. Tliis wise decision was met 
by Julius III. buying the statue for 800 crowns. 



The Museum of Antiquities is not open to the 
public, and an influential ititroduction is required, 
ilere also arc a figure of Aristotle, and eight bas- 
reliefs of classical subjects, from the Churcit of S. 
Agncse, outside the walls, including the Belle- 
rophon, Paris, Daedalus, Archemorus, «kc. 

Palazzo ili Spagna, seat of tho Spanish Embassy, 
in Piazza di Spagna. 

Palazzo Sfrozzi, in Piazza delle Sthnmate, was 
built by C. Maderna. It faces the Church of the 
Stimraate di S. Francesco, which contains some 
frescoes by L. (jazzi, and stands in tlie Gardens of 
the Baths of Agrippa. 

Palazzo Torlonia, in Piazza dl Venczla. It was 
the Palazzo Bolognettl, before its purchabO by 
Prince Torlonia, tlie banker, and has been robtored 
by (y'arretti. Collection of Flemish and other 
masters. Copy of the Loggic arabesques of 
Raphael ; Hercules and Lycas, l)y Canova. Open 
to the public on Tuesdays and Fridays, 11 to 2. 
No p'r.nesso required. 

Pa'azzo Torlonia, for rerly Verospi, in the Corso, 
built !>y O. Lunghi, and restored by Aless. Specchi. 
Frvrsjoiis by Fr. Al >ani. 



Pa'azzo di Venezia, at the end of the Corso. A 
lar,'e and simple mcdi:eval pile, built by F.dirlBorgo 
S. S'M'ol •, 14 )5 : given, in 1561, by Pope Pius IV., 
fortius Venotian Ucpublic; now the seat of the 
Austrian Eiu!)assy. 

Pa'azzo Vldom\ in Via del Sudario, facing the 
Churtli of tho Santo Sudario. Originally designed 
by Raphael, and Ftill incomplete, it was formerly 
the seat of the Catfarelll and Stoppanl families. 
Here is a fragment of the fasti of Verrius Flaccus. 

Old Houses. — M. Angelo's House was No. 21, 
Via del Fornari, near the Colonna Palace. 

ItaphaeVs /louse, in which he lived several years, 
down t i his death, was demolished when the Piazza • 
Rusticucci, near St. Peter's, was enlarged. 

Poussin's Home. No. 9, the little Piazza della 
Trinitk, and tlie Church of Trlnltk de' Monti. 
Those of Claude Lorrahie and S. Rosa are near It. 

Pietro da Cortona's House, In Vlcola della Pedac- 
cliia. Zuccaro's House, now called the Palace of 
tile Queen of Poland, at the north end of Via Slstlna. 

Gibson, the sculptor, lived at No. 4, Via della 
Fontanelle. Mrs. Jameson, In Piazza dl Spagna, 
No. .'•;{. Walter Scott, at II, Via delle Mcrcede, 
m irked by a tablet. Keats, In Piazza dl Spagna, 
where he died, 1821. 

In Via dl S. Nlccolb dl Forentino lived Mr. Story, 
the ac omplished author of Jioba di Roma; a 
dc.l^htfiil book about Rome, In two volumes. 

JiietizCs House, or Casa dl Pllato, facing the 
Ponte Rotto and Temple of Foituna Vlrilis. Re- 
built by Cola dl Rienzi, the last Tribune, In tho 
fourteenth century, on the site of a former house, 
inhabited by another Roman patriot, the Consul 
Orescentius, throe centuries before. . 



2oe 



BBADSHAW'g ITALY. • 



[Section 2. 



VILLA8. 



These arc country houses outside the older Walls, 
in the midst of formal grardens, ornamented with 
terraces,- fountains, statuary, &c., in what is 
usually called the Italian style. 

* Villa Albani, outside Porta Salara, Rome, 
an elegant villa, built by C. Marchioni, in the 
eighteenth century, for Cardinal Albani, a man of 
great taste. It was purchased by Prince Torlonia. 
The choice collection, arranged by WInckclmann, 
the well-known antiquarian critic, and illustrated 
in his "Storia ^ell' Arti" and "Mtmumentl Ine- 
diti,*' still ranks alter the Vatican, and Capitol, and 
Torlonia; though many of the best things were 
taken to Paris by Napoleon, or sold to the King t f 
Bavaria. It commands fine prospects of the Alban 
Hills, Apennines, &c. Not now open to the public, 
but permission might be obtained, as a favour, by 
applying in writing to Prince Torlonia, Palazzo 
Torlonia. 

Among the statues, busts, and bas-reliefs, arc — 
Basket-bearing: Caryatides, in the vestibule; 
Marriage of Thetis, bas-relief; Minerva and 
the ship Argo, bas-relief ; Diogenes in his Tub ; 
Antinous, a bas-relief from the Villa Adriana; 
Parnassus, in the ceiling of the gallery, the 
best work of Raphael Mcngs; Apollo Sauroc- 
tonos, a bronze Praxiteles, found on the Aveutine; 
Hercules Famese, a bronze copy ; Labours of Her- 
cules, in a fine marble basin. Billiard room and 
coffee room, in the garden, with a roimd portico on 
twenty-six granite pillars. 

Villa Borgfiexe, outside Porta del Popolo, built by 
Cardinal Borghese, nephew of Paul V. Prince 
Camilla Borghese married Napoleon's sister, 
Paulhia, and sold the best part of the collection to 
the Emperor, for removal to the Louvre. In the 
Casino are antiquities and pictures, open Tuesdays, 
Thursdays, and Saturdays, admission, 1 lira. Por- 
"tlco — Bas-reliefs from the Arch of Claudius. 
Saloon — Frescoes, by Rossi; arabesques, mosaics, 
&c. Room 1, Juno; 2, Amazon, Hercules ; 3, Apollo; 
4, Gallery of paintings; 5, Hermaphrodite; 0, 
•TyrtaBUs; 7, Egyptian room. On the Second Floor : 
— Apollo and Daphne, by Bernini; Statue of 
Princess Paulina, as Venus Victiix, by Canova. 
See page 202. under Palazzo Borghese, for list of the 
most remarkable pictures. The Part, 8 or 4 miles 
Ip extent, is open on the same days as the Casino, 
free. 1 till dusk. Its laurel and myrtle groves were 
half cleared, for strategical reasons, by the govern- 
ment of 1849. Entrance near the Porta del 
Popolo. It contains a temple and hipi>odrome, 
gi'ottoes, foimtains, &c. On a statue is an inscrip- 
tion inviting the stranger to "come and go wlien 
he pleases, and ask for what he likes." 

Villa Buonaparte (formerly Sciarra and Paolina), 
is just inside Porta Pia, close to the site of Porta 
Collina, on the old wall. 

Villa Barberini, on the Via di Venti Settembre, 

jrf the onirancc of the Gardens of Sallust ; whose 

Ii€»ase, portico, tte^ were rained by Attila and his 

^^rt/eg, rrj,cu tltey entered the city on thU ride. 



There are traces of arcades and of a Temple of 
Venus. 

Villa Ccelimontana, or Mattei, on the Coeliau. 
Antiquities, fine views. Admission by card. 

Villa Ludoviii, in the Gardens of Sallust, on 
Monte Pinrio, belonging to the Duke de Soro, of 
the Piombino-Buoncompagni family; built for 
Gregory XV.'s nephew. Cardinal Ludovisi, by 
Domenichino. A Museum is being built to con- 
tain the fine collection of antiquities. Ouercino's 
*' Aurora, a fresco, which may be compared with 
Guido's, at Palazzo Rospigliosi, is in the casino. 
Here arc Orestes and Electra; Head of Juno; 
Gaul killing his wife; Pluto and Proserpine, by 
Bernini; Mars and Cupid; Paetus and Arria. 

Villa Lante, on ihe Janiculum, in Trasterero, 
now the Convent of the Sacred Heart, and there- 
fore not open to visitors. Near it is the Scalette 
Convent, or Nuimery of the Buon Pas tore, to 
which bad wives are sent. 

Villa Madama, two miles from Porta Angelica, 
on Monte Mario, overlooking a picturesque valley, 
is so called after Charles V.'s natural daughter, 
Margaret of Austria, who married the Duke of 
Parma. It has been a farm, the rooms being stored 
with fodder, and cattle driven through the saloons. 
It was built by Raphael and G. Romano, for 
Clement VII. The view commands a beautiful 
prospect of Rome — of the course of the Tiber, the 
Milvian Bridge, Mount Soracte, and the Sabine 
and Alban Hills. Loggia with damaged frescoes. 
Admission, 50c. 

Villa Mauimi, on the Pincian, on the site of 
SaHust's Garden, as indicated by an inscrtption, 
"Horti maximorum in Sallustianis." It is now 
pulled down, the only remains being the Casino 
Mammi, which contains frescoes from Dante, 
Ariosto and Tasso, by Koch, Veit, Schnorr, Over- 
beck, and Ftihrich, all German artists. 

Villa Medici, now the French Academy, near the* 
Pincian Gar<lens. Rebuilt by Leo XI. (of the 
house of Medici), from designs by M. Angelo. Its 
collection was transferred to Florence, by Cosmo 
III.; and in 16(i6 the Villa was bought by the 
French Govennncnt Part of the tunnel which 
carries Acqua Vergine to Piazza di Spagna, Ac, 
may !)e seen. Horace Vemet had a small atelier 
in the grounds, and here he pahited Mendelssohn's 
portrait. Garden open for a small fee. 

•Villa PamfiliDoria, 1 mile from Porta S. Pan- 
crazio, is one of the largest at Rome. Built by 
Algardi, for Innocent X. It has shady pine walka, 
and commands a good view of St. Peter's. In 
1849, ot the siege of Rome, It was the head-quar- 
ters of Garibaldi. Admission, Friday afternoon. 
To Casino and Columbaria, (>0c. to custodian. 

Villa di Papa Gitdio, about a mile from Porta 
del Popolo. Built for Julius III., by Vignolo, 
with a small summer-house, or Vigna, attached. 
Frescoes, by Zuccaro. It is now restored. Al>oiit 
2 miles in this direction is a purgative Sfkring,. 
called Aoqiuk ▲.ceioaa. 



by jurmBOo. OlitilDed IhrAngh ttie Britlth Coiisu) 

COLLEGES, ACADEMIES, LIBBA- 

BffiS, nrSTITUTIOMB, &c. 

' ^B UHIVEKSITV. 

EiuttLChlo and fluia Nsvchib, wu founded by 
Plus III. uid Janni IJ.. nnd nnlshcd hy thcli 
■licceuon. U. Ai«o]a, Dolln Purln (ISTt). and 

In good proportion. Thftchnpd.wKliitBapJral 

[Ok. 11 byfloitiliUnL Over ttie dotir li the 

e. /nMwn &v<«Nb nwr Aintiif. whoDEe IhE 

keo, 'It tau A library of 10,000 Toluiu 

y Alsxindar VII. (opon daUyX "i" 

-' "--in fc^li, ■.--"—* ■. 



faira4«l by 



Bmbor. KiSoUiik 



SlL 



Oitswy Xlff. iy Aiflmaju 
n' coT^tdriif iiban tM.^IMD 
U btaryud dfumnd moui 

tlon.lhe^ 

IbEMTenilanttiiiiltUi In Lraaic, mnriilo, xn. Here 
li ■ vory luteratlns * ffnUUo. or curlcamri?, fntniil 
OB the wall id a etaamUBr Bi CBur*a Pnlncs on tho 
Pala(lB^udnuiM«dlul8S7. It li a akncb, i>r 
■BMHi (niAtto rhlleult tb« ChiMlani). of a man 
i^htlwbMd'ft'sdonluy, ureiched dd u croas, 
wUk a lefond ■WtftlD'B " Aleiamcnos i> adorluR 
Ma Owl." TfacCariJIer Do Rossi says It is tho 
T«ry oarlioit reprosen'tottoa of th'o Crucifixion 



*4|Uaate^ia1dpDaice.' 
rn^icU and Fr^hlst 



■ VelUfli! de pfV^agiBiilt FiSe, li. 



Otji«^ 3t 



in Via flella Propa- 

dt Siu^na. Boguii by Bemliil, 

d ttilihed by Bamnnlul. Foanded by 

"'^ " traintnic convertpd natlvps of 

for Ibraifn mlnimii. It baa a 

flbran at OrienUI irorki. mid ui Oriental prlui- 

fnicomce. The "AnnaLsofliiePropogiiliouof the 



The BnglUh Call'tge, oi 



itoBlo Plo. ta BI 
la. in Vis Mai 



Ktiire. Bcaldoieon- ■ 



faltb" are publlihed here. 



Gfrman ArrhiBOlogiial JniUtule,at 
srpeliui (?) Koct. where the Qoru 



a'offical IntUtMtt^ or Etolt de Bomf, 
itieriain AreAseoloffitar Soeietjf, Via 

UBBAKiaS. 

ry, open Uondaya. Tneadayi, Wtd- 
Idayi, from Ij lo II. tSceValkm.) 



)d by Cam 



ra Hloei 



lanUUerl 



(which me. |h^ 909) In the 



'U- 



bouki (SOa.OOO). open from 9 to 3. 

jln^<f4T£iArarff,ncarlhoChtircb of S-A^stlno, 
rank! Ililrd In Borne, and has about 10«,000Toluiuci 
and 3,000 HSS, Open daily, B to ^ 

Llbrariei at Ihc Sapiaiu, Oarberbii Palace, and 
Collcgio Komano, ai abOYfl nuntlooed. 

BEHEVOLENT raSTITDTIOIIS, HOBTI- 
TALS, A& 

"The charHlc. of Roms are nuraerona and well 



S. Mlcliek a mpit nospitat ia a large iDdulrial 
Inslilutlon, on the alto of Cesar'a Nanmachla, 
lacinirlUpa Grande; f oimJad, Itaa. by T.CMeMlehl. 



la peDlteiiliu? ■ 
le Borgu B. Splrl 



u IV„ ^ 



i. BebuUl, 

tiiViHmi'rill'i^Dioaiiii'ot Thel-ntuio dull! Cum- 
mandeH. Tha ImimiB wu lenfnbaned by F. Kuva. 
Ttia stut romn. or ward. ST7 tiol lung, canlalni 
iMli In III luU( fnr I.tVO |wU«l». ind «■ slur br 
A. Pillidlo I bst It 1* Tentllated nn ■ hiri prlnd- 
lill, villi wlndvwa oTar tba bodi Mid ■pertam I*- 
~'<nniw Walton the imtlaitii luiMad uf ttas 

nmwItliBllbriiryiinsitUchca: alHiaronnd- 
ivnjAM with ftlly iret nnn.ni furlhcclilidrai, 
I luiuthi iiylDin, Tha huaplUl accammudi. 



lilCvH 
l.n». 1 



Italei 



, ..le aaj'luD 
I lako In nei 



S. Rouo LtinB-ln-na . 
dcr Vl' In ISOo! Wuiucn aVa ncelved witliont 
a.iila Triaitli <M Ptllifrlal It a hotpltal for con- 



il>(Hn(M,lnTladalA. 
ibsr, !• ■ public ituip [ai 
aney, (MabUibed by Pau! 



Dnded by B. d* Ttmi, at 



4iclait KoaiM— "Thai which 
. (I.e. BW)i that which Nan 
1 that wbkh b* and bit luo- 



by Turqnln I 



Qf .hb^biaMn 
anplaot 



f Hooa Quadrala, o 



3ni. Time or tht Bspobllc, a.c f 
Via Appla. mada of boull blnckt. 
BDlillctiiii Bcidga ; of tha Tabularium 



..'founded by 
^ a UpanlarJ. 



H. UluruHi 


«r5, 


'rpdu 

wardfg 


.KoChar 
of .Tamp 
l» inula 
thepow. 


oo 
wl[°' 


TalaOlt 




vu 



Uhureh. on tha lUa of l^nnpay*! Thealra. 
DrefiiJtiDiimliJI'upiiaH»oiH-»m\Ht novt 



n Carcara, Tompla of Fortnna Vlrtlli, 
mrch of Santa Maria Egiila, near (ha 
L ot tba Tampla of 




ambelllihlDi (aaya Forayth) 
liDplanlad In ararr artbt, hu thrown iO 
lUlioalilaB Into the «n(rattd vlawi of 



ns; Ihongh 



T ROHB. 

■treral niBj be IdfmtlBelbr meu 
I which ware Diluted over Ihem. 'rhsM dlipntn 
onghtod. Tll« 

Dpportunily, he sayt, dI 



tho Papnl PbImb on the (Jnlrlnal, Iho basilkai on 

trace on [odt Ihe onllinu of theme hi1r^ the 
circntloftheWall. 

nally reside, are 



(tbo Pincltui and VMIcan not being reckoned) 
wen the Cinitel, Ayenllne, PiU»tlne, Ctellan, 
EiqallJne, Vlmbial, and Quirlnal (beTota men- 
tioned, on page 169). 

THEFOBUH. 

twean the CapltolUie and Palstlne Hills. U n space 
lybig north-WMt and lontb-aul, now called the 



ijnolbigPl 



DelfiedJullni.Aa HeieanoIcntRomedtvidesCi 

and boalness In uclsnt Eiime. and was 3UTTonn< 

Oonrti of Jaatico„abopa, *o,, lonio of which at 
here In good condition till Che time of the Gt 
and Vandala. and eren ta Ihe elevo^lh cenli 
wbta they wero nlned and bamt, and their 

an buried K fnt deep. In conmiDence of t 
BUT •( >'•' •!<" •^MOiM M> tUi Wonitta e 



ded™ oppoi. 

a Ortci girl, or a bear, or 

I drained bito tbe Cloaca 
, rrninlng beneath It. Tin 






his banila. after bit 

In 18B3, of a road 
Kooght to light the 



oall Cnlnmn o/^Phocai and otbH 



llie Latin TrlDej al (he bailie of Luke ReglUna, 
C1o>B by are the Podium o( Ihe Temple of Vest*. 

tba Begia Nnnue. and Iba Xvk^Ja ^^. ^JwHia 



of CciiiinrdiMBi' fi* Church of S. Olueeiipe toim 
U C>rcwe. or 8t. Juki* ovor Iha Prison, i.e^ Ihe 

oiT^hB ille o[ the Cnri» Jnlta, comer o( Vln 
BonelU. B. IdroiH) In Mtrtinda U on Ihg slla of 
S wl.iSf*™ In the porllco. 83. Coraio e Dmilano, 

tlie Boji/ica <■} Conslajilfne. nor the Church of 
a Frinceica RomBna, on the slto of Iho Temple 
of Venn> ana Rome, of which there •« ronulni 

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF OTHER REMAINS 

AQnEDtrOTB. 

Aqua Apfia^ the oldest, wsi mnslructed a c. 313^ 
S^uS^Mig. nud" g'ronnd. It mjered l>y Po^>J? 

c, IW). 

iiMo(iiylli*i» 

B.C. M), Joined M M to maai; a -'""'- ■■"■ " 
the other. Aqua Uarcia cauif 
S^^'ierbyl^tMTkVi^iia^Frfk^eTws^r^^ 
i™Xemdp"aime''Hnis. It istedby Aqua 
Claadla^ Aqua Alonandria. and the Anlo Noni. 

'""^"wrw WM^bronBhtlroraTn-dulnm. by M. 
h9(beh ■ - 



grippe. '""""■" 


Jej"" rerirfM (p 


?ol 


?'■ 


„ thVccettan HHU 


oB 


oThe Temple 


■ci 


sr 


.1 


anollier feed 


ro( 


Aeqn 




Qdl 














ish 




.Asm "W''"\,^j 


"foi 


V Aiqua Faola (iia 


elj«: 


hlch luppllM ih» Tr«« 


eiero. 






Aqaa inMniono, 










j^mAIm™**"" 




. iSO, made 1>J 


AleiBime 



I. Till) 19 one of thelatat 
opire and of ancient Koino. 
tlie Btnluei were stolen by 
id ore replaced Ujr others by 



.e CsUan, 



ually ce 



AqmJorit.t-B.KD. 

ATBHTH VB8TA I 

or Hou-e ol Ilie Vestal VIrglni, iienr the Forum 

!S5^T'l'^l'^A{on^Z^' iX'^ibe™ ^ 
"" found 13 marble J^™,"^;,*^' j. J^ ^^'i \ 
pettlotM of aUlaeJ «nd Ihf 



. 10. by Pi 

grlna, or deput for foreign eavftirr- At the lop la 

his Nympliaum (or the Temple of CUndlan) are 

MrcA o/Oi'iuu, ou tlie Via Aiipla. close lo Porta 
S, SebaMlano. BdIIC by the Seiialo In hononr of 

ported by conirH^le pillars, and was used by Can- 
calla as part ol tlie aquedncts to bis Baths. 

'Archofaanienm, n«r Santa Maria Maseiore, 
on the site of the Esqullinc Gala, In the old wall. 
Dedicated, i.D.iSO, by U. Anrellns Victor, to Qai- 
Itenns and Salonbia. It was a single areb of tra- 

butlros Is left close to S. Vlto Clitiich, which 
stands en or near the Hacellain Uvlannin, built 
by the wife of Augustus. Formerly a chain bunff 

Ihe^Porta Ssaicehla, at VHorbo, taken by tbs 
Romans In the thirteenth century. 
•Archof 3a!aa<imdFifnnt.\ay\», S, Giorgio In 

marble block. 73 feet each way, pierced by four 
arches, (onnlBB an open Tanlt Ijelow, with twcUo 
nlclics in each of the plera. It was fortified and 
■ ■* '■■ ledlsral age, 

the Church of 

iBcrlpttnt, bat 



WBi afterwards erased by Caraci 

enriched «^c^ supported by brui 

*Ar<h nf Scflimlia Sctci-ni. 



f^BiatlOBt eftbeFKUadluiB. 



'ET. P. SE5THUO, 



I an alteration br 
hruiltcr Qela), Iron 
F. QET<e NOB, 







!£.' 


A 


Bhlrl^? 








bawel 






fac8,w 


th 


BnodmoB 






t The oc 






eiilftely dlis 


*Arr 


of 


TOiM, und« 



)■ Vlclc 



othor iipoUi t 






-ooUng tbo Cull 






Di IQQ raJauv oi inc wQun, «nd of tha FDnim 
or. Cupid, ore nur thti arcb. It It Hid no Jow 
will piug imdw It. ■' Tims'> »n;li la to rich that 1 
enn btrOly think It elee-ant. The cntablolDn, th« 

Judge tho goutnil etfect of a mntllaled tldug."— 

BATHS (-"offlo-TERHS) . 

Bathi 0/ Jf. Agrtppa, bnllt about B.C. 25, to the 

Boulh of tii« Pantheon, which It 1h euppoacd was a 

space5OTf«rtlongbyIOOhro>d. Tlioywui; entire 
to the fifth coil UI7, and Mms Iracia are left at No. 
4*, Via del Cealari, in the oonrt. They were ted 
by the Aqua Virgo, also coiutructed by M. 

■BoMi 0/ Carofalta. In the louth-eaM corner of 
Hie city, near Via di Porta B. Seliaitleno. Conitmc- 
ted by Caracalia, HellonatHiIni, and Alexander 

were the tnoHt Bpleadld In Rome, and nlth Ihc 
gardens and outer corridora were one mile in 
circuit on the ground pbui. There were l.SOO 
aeparate badibiR-placoB, besides Inn^ basins of 
ETonlta and porphyry. Parts of the portieo. 



BhoUoy wrote his "Piomelhei 
Oeerge^s Hall, at Llrerpool, U 
Elmas, Df Caracalla's Bath, bat leis laui ■ lognn 
~ to diuk, 1 Ilrai Bmidaj, 



Baihi of OHainufi 
Monte Cnvallo. Af 



Diocictlaii, on the Vlmlnal. One of Iho Rotondat 
and 'the Cella Callilarla In °h°e nlddl'e was'eon- 
dcgll Angelt, by M. Angclo. Some of the largn 



AtIAi oflla-a, a shapelesi rain, on the alto of O. 

'. in Ihe year or the ^at 
an extension of the Batha 



LidglChur 



of Agrippa. A half-circular 



e Colosi 



10 feet 



Iha butldbie erected by Nero, especially tha corri- 

frescocs. One of theao Is a iMclnre of the inleiloi 
of the balbs. showing Ihe (rlgliarlnm, tepldarlBm, 

arrangeuicrts,isbrouebllQllfhl«tP™p«ll. The 
ninrai palnlinga are liijared by Ihe tricklbig water, 
inre b"n ve'' "^^V*'"'' ""' '"""B* "t lempeni- 

Ind *^l!JMf™titn'c^on^ES"oHh'''"d'''^ '""'"'' 



Osstra Vetera of Ihe Eqnliea Slngularea, the 
mperial Horse-Onarda. discovered, Issa, In the Via 



built, It Is supposed, al 
nsed by Hooortus to f 
Its arches were fined 



CIrriu AgaraHi {for wresllhig. Ac.)— Only tbe 
shape can i« traced^ In tta PUiia iiavona. A 



312 



BRADSUAW'S HALT. 



[Section 2. 



*Circua 0/ Maxentitu, uoar the Tomb of Romu- 
Ins and Tomb of Cecilia Mctolla, on the Appian 
Way, two miles from Rome. It was about 1,600 
feet Ion?, and 300 feet wide, and is the best 
preserved of all. At one end are two towers, with 
the twelve carceres, or starting places, which 
■are arched over ; and at the opposite end, in the 

, middle of a semicircle, was the Porta Triumphalls, 
by which the victor loft. The racers made the 
■circuit seven times from riffht to left; the goal 
beiiig marked by the conical metro fixed on the 
spina, a raised division running nearly along the 
middle of the circus, adorned with statues, 
•columns, altars, and small temples. The scats were 
approached by an archway beneath. Frescoes 
under the vault of the Porta Triumphalls are still 

' traceable. 

Circus, -or House o/SaUust, near Porta Sal aria, on 
the Pincian, was destroyed in the capture of the 
city, by Alaric, a.i>. 410. Some remains exist on 
the site of the Gardens of Snllust. The obelisk 
which adorned the Spina faces the Church of 
Trinltk do' Monti. 

Circus Ftaminius was on the site of the Mattel 
Palace. The church of S. Caterina dei Funari 
t>ccupies its centre. 

Circus ofNerOy on the site of the first Basilica of 
St. Peter's. Its obelisk faces the modem Basilica. 

Circus MaximuSy in the vineyards under the 
vouth side of the Palatine, near Via de' Fenill 
and the Church of Santa Anastasia, oh the Via de* 
Cerchi. . It was the oldest i)lace for races, sham- 
fights, and similar spectacles under the name of 
Ludl Circenses. Here the Rape of the Sabine 
women was effected. Except a few circular masses 
of marble work in the walls of some houses in the 
Via de' Cerchi, only the general shape of this 
large building can be made out. It was about 1,340 
feet by 640 feet, and was two storeys high. It was 
begun by Tarquinins Priscus, enlarged by Julius 
CsBsar, restored by Vespasian, after the great fire 
in Nero's thne, and improved by Trajan, and finally 
by Constantino. At one time it would hold nearly 
880,000 persons. There was a decorated spina, or 
low wall, 12 feet broad and 8 feet high. Two 
obelisks (metie) were put up by Augustus and 
Constantius. The former was 12fl feet high; the 
latter is now called the Lnteran Obelisk. Sixtus 
V. used part of the Circus to build St. Peter's. 

*Cl0a0ft Maxima, or main sewer of ancient 

Rome, was a large arched drain, fir»t built by Tar- 

quin the Proud. 2,600 years ago, and kept up by 

the censors, asdile, and latterly by curators. It 

was constructed of large, solid, uncemMite'd blocks 

of green pcperino, 15 feet wide and 3 hl;fh 

(outside), with three arches, one within the other, 

the innermost being about 14 feet diameter. The 

/foft place to Bet it is near the arch of the Money- 

t^Aun/ferM, at a mill; admission, 26c. A briglit 

{oarapr£ner,cMUedAcqiia Argentlnti, runs inio 

^ ciUAocA. Maine wag aad Is utlU 4 ireU drained 



COLOSSEUM. 



" While Bt«nda the ColiMnm, Borne shall •taiad I 
When falls the ColiMtun. Borne ahi^ fall i 
And when Borne falls, the world I *'— Byron. 

The Colosseum, originally Flavium Amphitheatrum^ 
near the Baths of Titus, embraces a space of six 
acres, on the site of the hike in Nero's Golden House. 
It was built (A,D. 72-80) in eight years, by Vespasian 
and other members of the Flavian family, many 
Jewish prisoners being employed. To a brick pile, 
begun by Nero as part of his Golden House, Ves- 
)>asian added stone corridors and an external wall 
of travertine blocks. The bricks are thin, ten to 
the foot; «20 feet by 613 feet from wall to wall, 
and 1,8*20 feet round. The arena (so called from 
the sand) was 280 feet by 180 feet. Four principal 
corridors go round it, between which are staircases 
and ways to the arena and seats, by means of 
eighty openings or archways, called vomitorite^ 
each 14^ feet outside (except four at the end oif 
the axis, which are a little wider), but diminish- 
ing inwards, and dividing the whole mass into as 
many cunei, or wedges. The seats (gradus) were in 
three graduated series of fifty each, sloping from 
the arena to the upper gallery, with a prtecinctas, or 
landing, between. The best seats for the Emperor, 
Prietors, Consuls, Vestal Virgins, Ac, were on the 
podium, next the arena, about 12 to 16 feet above 
it ; and the divisions above these were appropriated 
to the eguestres, popuH, puflati (or rabble) respec- 
tively. The gallery at the top, resting on eighty 
pillars, was for the women and slaves. 

The steps, or seats, were restored by Pius IX., 
some half-way up to the exterior wall, which, when 
complete, was 160 feet high. This wall, as seen 
from the outside, is divided into three storeys, or 
rows of arches, of equal elevation, followed by a 
mezzanine, or half-storey, and a fourth storey, 
surrounded by a deep cornice and entablature, and 
the gallery at the top. The lowest storey, pierced 
by eighty doors, is Tuscan, or debased Doric, in 
style; 2nd— Roman, Ionic; 8rd— Corinthian. The 
4th. above the mezzanine, was faced with com- 
posite pilasters, without arches, but had windows 
in every alternate space. 

There are holes round the top of the cornice for 
holding poles upon which to stretch the canvas 
awning, or velarium, in hot weather. The Colos- 
seum would hold 100,000 spectators, sitting and 
standing ; as many as 10,000 gladiators fougrht in 
the arena at Trajan's triumph; and Titus gave a 
venitione, or wild beast fight of 6,000, in one day, 
besides a sea fight, in which 3,000 men exhibited. 
The arena was partially excavated in 1818; the 
dens for the l>easts were under its floor, or round 
the edge of the podium. It could be flooded for 
boats at the naval fights. Excavations no«r in 
progress have disclosed that the real base of the 
Colosseum was 20 feet lower than the idatform. 
wherethe^ladiators fought : and that it was of soUa 
brlck-'worV, on 'w\i\cYi \&« t^vnalus of walls, cdlan^ 
pillars, and auoVk-\U(A^ as^ lo^oicA aVcvira t ' 



Ronte 32.] 



ANCIENT ROME. 



SIS 



The Colosseum (incorrectly, but often called the 
Coliseum, after Byron) was entire down to the 
eighth century. This name does not occur in any 
ancient Roman writer, but is first found in the 
■writings of Venerable Bedc, and was most likely 
tak^n from the colossal statue of Nero. In 
the fourteenth century it was workeci as a quarry 
for the sake of tlie stone, and also for the iron and 
lead used to cramp them topretlicr; and, with the 
materials thus obtained, the palaces of Venezia, 
Farnese, Barf>erini, the Cancelleria, the nipetia 
Quay, «fec., were built. Some attempts have been 
occasionally made at reparation, and part of 
the west side was banked up by a preat wall, built 
by Pius VII. The altars and statues which sur- 
rounded the interior have long affo perislied. 

In tlie year 4C)4, an Eastcni monk, named Alma- 
chius, or Telcmachus, rushed in amon^ the Ki&dia- 
tors, and tried to separate them. The praetor, 
Alypius, ordered them to slay liim, which they did. 
An inscription over the entrance states that the 
amphitheatre was dedicated to the worship of the 
Martyrs, in the year of the Jubilee, 1675. Wood 
pijJToons and other birds build their nests in the 
ruuis. All the benches are covered with weeds 
and grasses, and festooned with creepers and 
flowers - wallflowers, anemones, rosea, ferns, Ac. 
A list of 400 strangp and curious plants, peculiar to 
the place, is given iu Deakin's Flora of the Cofos- 
teum. — (Sec Story'8 Roba di lioma). From hence, 
you go through Titus's Arch to the Via Sacra, 
witli the Forum Komaimm, in view. 

"The eaormoos Ami>hitheatre behold ! 
Mountaiauua pile, o'er whose capaoioui void 
Pours the b oid nriuanient its vaxied light, 
While from the cenual floor tAe seats as. end. 
Bound above round, alow iiridening to tbe verge ; 
A circuit xmX. and high ; nor less had heli 
ImperitI Rome and her attendaut realm. 
Wneu, druniL with power, sherer*! d with fierce delight. 
An- 1 oped tbe gloomy cAverns, whence out nuhed 
Before the innumtsrable fhoutiug crowd. 
The flery. iua>ldttuM t>rants of the wilud, 
iions anJ ti iters, wolves and elephants. 
And desperate men more fell." 

Dykr's Ruina of Roma. 
The only other amphitheatre iu Kome was the 
Castrense.'sQQ page 211. 

COLUMBARIA. 

These were buiidmgs for the reception of urns 
containing remains of cremated persons, with 
rows of niches all round. Each of the niches, 
or pigeon holes (from which the Columbarium 
gets its name), contained a pair of urns (ollas), 
with the names of the persons whose ashes they 
held. On the Appian Way are the very interest- 
ing Columbaria of the Officer* of C«sar^* Hotue/iold, 
In which arc midoubted memorials of I'ryphaena 
uiid Tryphosa, (mesimus, and Epaphras, mentioned 
by St. Paul in his Epistles written from Rome. 
Ouo«imus may not be the one named by Paul, as 
be was scut back. Sec pages 2u6, r^lS, aud 219. 

COLUMNS. 

Cfolttmn of Antoninus Piut, or the Lesser Ante- 
n|ne CJolUDMit was discovered In 1709, on Monte 



Citorio. It was a single shaft of red granite, on a '^^ 
marble pedestal, in the Forum of Antoninus; and 
was used by Pius VI. to restore his obelisks. »we. 
The pedestal is in the Vatican. '^^^ 

*Co'unin of M. A ureli us Antoninus, usually called 
the Antonine Column, in the Piazza Coionna, to 
which it gives name. It was erected in the Forum .^ 
of Antonine, in h(mour of the Emperor's victory ^ 



ere 
ma 



over the Marcomaimi, and other German tribes ; 
the particulars behig cut hi the spiral bas-reliefs 



ing 
ras 



round the shaft. They are hiferior in point of .i^ 
design aud proportion to those of the Trajan ,.^ 
column. Its height is 108 feet, including 13 feet Jr 
below ground, and exclusive of 274 '^^^ f<^r ^^^ aiv 
bronze statue of St. Paul on the top, which Sixtus JL 
IV. placed there when he raised the column. The .%. 
diameters of the shaft, at bottom and top, are ' 
13 feet 1 inch and 12 feet 1 inch. It is made of if' 
twenty-eight blocks of white marble, and is >g^ 
asccniled by a spiral staircase of 190 steps. Palazzo 1^ 
Chigi and Delia Porta's fountain are near it. ^^ 

Column of Duilius, of bronze, made of tbe rostra by 
of captured ships. The bases still exist lu front of nd 
the Arch of Septimius Scverus, in the Forum he 
Komanum. tct 

Column of Phocas, was dedicated to tlie Emperor *» 
Phocas, by the Exarch Smaragdus, a.d. 608, in ^® 
the Forum Romanum. The pe<lcstal, which was -" 
part of a fluted Corinthian column of an earlier ^^ 
date, was dishiterrcd hi 1813, and stands on a ^ 
flight of steps. Phocas' 8 name was erased by 
Ileraclius. mt 

*Collimil of Trajan, near the Church of Ma- ^ 
donna di Loreto, was erected by him in his Forum, ^f 
of thirty-three pieces of marble; its total height ^ 
being U7 feet, the height of the column alone •<> 
mdicatcs (as an inscription states) the height of o 
that part of the Quirinal Hill which was cut away d 
for the Forum. The bas-reliefs and ornaments of ^ 
this fine column are in excellent preservation, d 
A staircase leads to tlie statue of St. Peter, on tbe ^' 
top, lit by slits inside. o 

Apollodoi-us, of Damascus, was its architect, 
A.D. 108-14 . It is an enriched Doric column (like e 
the York Pillar, London), surmounted by D. Fon- ti 
tana's statue of St. Peter (1588), which replaces a - 
statue of the emperor. Rubbish 15 feet deep e 
had accumulated round the base; which having :. 
been cleared away, has brought to view certain 1 
pillars, and the pavement of Trajan's palace, or i 
basilica. The bas-reliefs of the emperor's Dacian f 
victories, and his triumphal procession wind round 
the shaft in an easy spiral — » 

" And lead, through various toils, up the rough sUep, 
IU hero to the skies."— Dyxk'b Rnin* of Rom*. J 

The figures are about 2 feet high at the bottom, \ 
and increase gradually towards the summit. They . 
may be followed by walking round it, though the 
top parts are nearly out of sight. Originally a * 
high gallery was built round three sides, from ^ 
which It might be seen. Trajan appears a6oiit fifty > 
times. Th^ show the costumes of th« aotdUt*.* 



214 



BRADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



and tribes • with swords on the right side, a stick 
on the left shoulder for a wallet, and tight panta- 
loons to the knee. Archers are defended with 
plate armour. The Dacians wear loose pantaloons 
to the ancle, and curved swords. There is a cast 
of it at South Kensington. 

FORUMS AND BASILICAS. 

Basilica and Forum are almost synonymous, but 
the basilica was the court of justice, usually within 
the forum. It was divided hito three naves, «'.«., a 
central nave and two aisles, by a row of columns 
on each side, with a tribunal for the judges at the 
end. This was railed in with cancelli, or lattices, 
whence we get chancel and chancellor; the one 
legal and the other ecclesiastical. It became the 
model for churches, into which the basilicas which 
remained were afterwards converted. Some of the 
so-called basilicas arc not properly such, as they 
have a transept, which never existed in the ancient 
court of Justice. 

Forumo/Augustus,north of the Forum Romanum. 
Part of a massive pepcrino wall, pierced by an 
arch, remains; with two fluted Corinthian colunms 
of the Temple of Mars Ultor. 

Forum Tramitorium, leading to the principal 
place or Forum Romanum. It contains two 
columns, remains of a Temple of Minerva, the 
most picturesque ruin in Rome. 

Forum Populi is identified by Gell, with the re- 
mains round the Temple of Jupiter Latralis, on 
Mount Albano. Here fnirs were held, and the 
Roman people celebrated the Latinae Feriae, or 
holidays, in April, with their country allies. 

Forum Romanum. (See Fokum, page 209.) 

Forum of Trajan. This adjoined the Forum of 
Augustus. Most of the site of this once magnificent 
basilica, which had five naves, as constructed by 
Apollodorus, is now covered with houses, standing 
16 or 16 feet above its level. It was surrounded 
by a palace, gjnnnasium, library, triumphal arches, 
porticoes, columns, and gilt statues, which made 
Cassiodorus, in the sixth century, style it a "per- 
fect miracle." All that is now seen is the Trajan 
Column (see preceding page), and a few granite 
pillars of the Basilica Ulpia (probably not in ntu^, 
with some fragments of capitals, entablatures, &c., 
which were excavated by Sixtus V. (1690), and by 
Pins VII., in 1812-13, and are ranged around It. 
They are near the church of Madonna di Loreto. 

Fountain of Egerla (so-called) in a valley, 
close to the Via Latina, 2 miles from Porta Appia. 
It is an unroofed chamber containing eleven niches, 
the work being partly reticulated ; at one end is an 
old mutilated statue. The spring still runs from 
It. The walls are covered with maidenhair fern. 
The Egerian Fountain of Numa is close to the 
Porta Capena, mider the Coelian. Application to 
be made to Baron Hoffmann, in whose grounds it is. 

*Mam«rtine and Tolllan FriaoT)8, on the 

Capitoline, close to the Forum and the Capitolium. 

, SaisrffBd by Servius Tullius, and repaired under 

Jyf^rfas, A.D. 22. That part above ground is made 

«^ yjirre bJocka of uucemented tufa, and Is 45 feet 



long, 18 feet high ; one of the remains of ante> 
republican times. A dark hole is shown through 
which prisoners were dropped to the dungeon 
below. It is described by Sallust, near the end of 
the Catilinarian War, "Est in carcere locus, quod 
Tullianum appellabatm-," Ac. Outside there were 
steps, called Scalae gemonite, on which the dead 
bodies of malefactors, after their execution, were 
shown to the people. A post is shown to which 
St. Peter was tied, with his bust and miraculous 
well ; which was there, however, before his time. 
Sejanus was strangled here, and Jugurtha died of 
hunger in it. The Church of S. Giuseppe, in the 
Via di Marforio, is built over it. 

Meta ' Sudans, a fountain on the Via Sacra, 
which served to mark the bomidary (meta) of four 
regions of old Rome at their junction, near the 
Colosseum. As restored by Domitian, it was a 
cone, at the centre of a brick basin, about 80 feet 
diameter, covered with marble, part of which 
remains near the Arch of Constantine. 

Milliarium Aureum, in the Forum, close to the 
Arch of Septimius Severus, whence distances were 
recorded. The distances were measured from the 
Gates. A circular terminal on a marble base is 
seen on the left hand, facing the Capitol. 

PALACE OF THE CfSABS. 

(The Palatine Hill.) 

The first Palace was begun by Augustus Cfle«ar, 
on the Palatine, on the siteof the houses of Catiline 
and Hortensius; and enlarged by his successors, 
till it covered the plain as far as the Coelian and 
Esquiline Hills, and the gardens of Miecenas. 
Afier the great fire it was rebuilt by Nero, under 
the name of the Domus Aurea, or Golden House. 
"The Imperial Palaoe ; oompua hnge, and high 
The structtire ; akill of noblest architects. 
With gilded battlements conspicuous far. 
Turrets and terraces."— Jfttton. 

Though injured by the Vandals, it was inhabited 
by Heraclius, in the seventh century, and was 
nearly all standing as late as the eleventh century ; 
but now the ruins are buried some feet below the 
soil. Paul III. began the Villa Farnese out of 
the relics, and left it unfinished as a heritage to 
the King of Naples. Remains of the foundations 
and basements of the respective palaces of 
Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, and Nero have been 
uncovered, the ground having been bought by the 
Italian Government, and systematically exca- 
vated. 

The marble floors and carvings of the banqueting 
room, with the Porta Mugonia, a gate of early 
Rome, have been uncovered; and some of the cor- 
ridors of Caligula's Theatre exist, towards the 
Circus Maximus. On the Palatine are parts of 
Augustus's Palatine Library, and of the Temple 
of Apollo, built by him after the battle of Actium; 
close to which are the two small Baths of Livia, 
in good preservation, with the gilding and painting 
still visible. From the extent of the ruins, and 
the descriptions that have come down, these palaces 
must have been the most magnificent and splendid 
that ey w «xV%te<l. 



KontoSS.] 

The gwaler p«H, i 



bud at 83, Via Bubuli 



KQualnlM wlih the 



PAHTHBOH. 

U«w"uie"'Colo»enm'i.i''fegfii'l'rParltr"tn 



ie el.^. 



Inter iddllion lo Ihe ponicu. ncnr (he age of Con- 
atniitloe. but not boCon lh» of tladrlnn. 
The Panthem nu oiicD adornod wllhsJIdins- 

down to ens, wben lite italMS, Ac.', wen remoiFd. 
portico b^ Urban Yin, but m^l o"lhrbfonze 

(ainons other thliwB) tho Cuulo of Cresuntlui (or 
H, Anselo). tbe Hint, and Santa Marin Eot«ula 



iil.G.daUdlne, 
llkphaBi ware 



JtOHI. 

Here are hnrled/topAivl 
del Vagi. T. Znccbero, 
EoimaaDel (1S78). Tbe i 

ilel aa»». Many'bowH 
have been cleared awaj . 

Baths, "ExlemfillyltieffeelliTCryaiuchBeitroved 

being w [liAKliollar In style and bo Inconffraunalf 
Joined toffelhpr. The portico especially. In Itielf 






a, In the Poicaerls Vecchia, of 



lUeCbo ■ ■ 

. by a fine portico. 

iioTth-oBBt of Rome, a rectan^lar apace, walled In 

rUil Guard, and dlnmanllcd by Conitantlne. Three 
tide) irere joined by Honorlui lo the preicnt wall. 
' -— ■ - -- ■ -■ — "---■■o.and 






Ibc pnbllc acts {on braai sUJjii.\ ™a,-.i 






216 



BSAD0HAW'S ITALY. 



were steps to the Fomm. Treasure was also kept 
in the Temple of Saturn. Two paths, one called 
Clivus Capitolinus, led to the Intermontium behind. 
*Tarpeian Rock, over which state criminals wore 
thrown, is on the west side of the Capitolinc, near 
the German Archaeological Institute and Via di 
Monte Tarpeio. It Is a red volcanic cliflF, about 60 
feet high, and might have been 80 feet before the 
soil below was raised by the accumulation of 
rubbish. A path among oleanders and cacti, with 
a notice, "qui si vede la Rocca Tarpoia," leads to 
the spot. There is a Via del la Rupe Tarpeia on 
the north side, near Ara Coeli Church. 

TEMPLES. 

There are two circular temples— that of Hercules, 
And that of Vesta, the latter at Tivoli. 

• Temple of Antoninus Pius, or ofNepiune, in Piazza 
di Pietra, and south of the Antonine Column. 
Eleven battered Corinthian pillars, suppoi'tiug a 
marble architrave, remain, walled into the front of 
the former Dogana ; and there are some fragments 
of a vault in the court behind. This is now more 
properly called the Temple of Neptune and the 
Portico of Argonauts, and was built by Agrlppa. 
The building is now used as the Exchange. 

*Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, in the Forum, 
was dedicated by the Senate to the Emperor and 
his wife. The Corinthian portico, on ten columns 
of cipolino marble, remains ; with the inscription 
"Divo Antonino" above "Divae Faustinas," and 
ornaments in the frieze. There was an ascent to 
it of twenty-one steps above the Via Sacra. The 
Church of S. Lorenzo in Miranda occupies the site 
of the peperino cella, of which two sides and a 
marble entablature are left. It measured about 72 
feet by 120 feet. 

Temple of Bacchus, or, more probably, a Roman 
tomb, now part of the Church of S. Urbano. A 
four-column Corinthian portico, and a stucco frieze 
inside remain. 

Temple of Castor and Pollux, in the Forum. 
Throe finely proportioned Corinthian Columns, 
about GO feet high, of fluted marble, with an 
entablature and travertine basement remain. It 
has been styled the Comitium (where the people 
assembled), and Grsscostasis (where ambassadors 
were stationed), and other incorrect names. 

Temple of Ceres and Proserpine, opposite the 
Temple of Hercules (Santa Maria del Sole), near the 
Tiber. Eight fluted marble Corinthian columns, 
and groat masses of travertine, are incorporated in 
the Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, or Bocca 
della Veritk. Some think this is the Temple of 
Fortune, originally built by Servius, but the 
identification is doubtful in both cases. 

J^offtpJe of Ccesar^ in the Forum, facing the 
OapJtoj, Large fragments of the basements have 
*eeu uneorered. 

^Tr^^-^ ^>w»/-dr (Templo deJia Concordia), 
'orttm, rras converted into the Church of 



[Section 2. 

St. Sergius In the eighth century, and bnmt in 
the sixteenth century. Only the substructure of 
the cella remains, which had a pavement of giallo 
antico. ^ 

Temple of Hercules, see next page. 

*Temple of Herodes Atticus, one mile from Rome, 
in the valley of Egeria, near the Almone Brook. 
An elegant little structure, with some carved 
pilasters on one side, and niched columns on the 
other. The appellation is probably incorrect. 
"So fresh are its red and yellow bricks, that the 
thing seems to have been ruined in its youth; so 
close their adhesion, that each of the puny pilasters 
appears one piece, and the cornice is sculptured 
like the finest marble." — Forsyth. 

* Temple of For tuna Virilis, on the Tiber, on the 
site of one built by Servius Tullius, is one of the 
few remaining antiquities of the Republic, forming 
part of the Armenian Church of Santa Maria 
Egizlaca. It stands on a high basement, with 
steps to it, and foi-ms an oblong of travertine and 
tufa, ornamented with marble stuccoes. The six- 
columned Ionic portico is walled up, but is other- 
wise, with its entablature and frieze, in good 
preservation. The name is of doubtful authen- 
ticity. 

Temple of Saturn, in the Forum, on the slope of 
the Capitoline, was rebuilt when a former one was 
burnt; according to the inscription, "S. P. Q, R. 
incendio consumptum restituit." Some of the 
ornaments of the first temple are seen in the 
frieze. A rich Ionic six-column portico of granite 
remains, on a base of travertine. This temple stood 
till the fifteenth century. Close to it was the Scola 
Xantha, or office of the public scriveners, built by 
A. Fabrius Xanthus. Between it and the Arch of 
Severus, are the Umbilicus at the centre (or navelj 
of Rome, and the pulpit or Rostinim (so called from 
the rostra, or beaks of ships, which decorated it) 
from which public harangues were made, now 
uncovered and open to public inspection. 

Temple of Jupiter Stator, on the Palatine ; from 
Stator, the immovable. Near, the Porta Mugonia 
and the few remains of Roma Quadrata. 

Temple of Jupiter Victor, also on the Palatine, 
dating from B.C. 290. Only the steps and sub- 
structure remain. 

Temple of Vespasian, founded by Domitian. It 
had a six-colunm Corinthian portico of fluted 
marble, and was highly ornamented with bronze 
gates, gilt ceilings, <fec.; three columns remain. 
Partof a word". . . estitver" (for "restituerunt") 
is read on the entablature. A winding path, 
called Clivus Capitolinus, went in front of It 
to the Intermontium. Near this are remains of 
chambers in which statues of the Dii Consen^^ 
(or twelve principal deities) were placed. 

^Temple of Minerva Mediea (miscalled) was f| 
domed Yv&W \tv \,\i« lAcVcAan Gardens, 80 feet 



Bonto as.] 

Putaof llwnUir 



I illiul«l M U« bHk ot tb> ■ 



wUch buunu 
thi wmilf. inc 
lu htlgla Li 10 

It aiti:4fBtber, 



renirth ti T'™?'' 1'' f' 
















pbel 


vlneihal 




madem tbu li 


goner 


lUly snpi™ 


d.'' 


•Ita.^(0/« 






end of Ihe VI. 


fioncLla, which 




°1"''n.".n"d°" 


with m wdied 


j>l«w 


y. ThrBO 




piUner rematn 


tlhU 


Trell-bDlU 




h> whicb 1> the 




dl Conll, 


re«cd, laoa, by 






d by .n earth- 


LtkB, ims."t 


..bo 


B g.itewa: 




delP»nt»nt,(,t. 




[iiinhca.I 


iberclghboot- 



ini of Parian marble, of Tery .lander 
I Uarlo dg; aolt. but formerly 8. Slotano 



UiunllDl on lb. BlU ol thii Horrea PI 
Hid dedicated by CooalaallDC. Part < 



Tlmfri of Ballna. n 



Iweil d UK up in this iiua. 
f Sanu 1 'Tlnalre of JforwHiu, neai 



the slebt iDnrfile column, whtch supported I 
«n.lcirctH»r inhnne [n the middle nave li now 
the riaiiadl Sunt* HarUMaggtore; 48 (Rami 
feet hlRh uid U round. 
Ttm^t (or Tomb) of Bomulia, U mile from Porta 



'la AnpU, ■ clicDlar-bnJIt 
hit tonlttiniulna. by Maien- 









laroire ofPomfeii. 
ment, 'and remain, b 



ud two poriihyry r 
nVIII. Sea page IE 
e VU Binra, where 



.ullt into the Palaiilo rio, or 

J^y,''M'lhoUioof™lcli'he[EllJi't"u"Meir'ta 

Chnreh ot St. Andrea dellc Valle li tnutlthmally 
•nppoMd to be ciaclly over the place where Caur 

tjrucii Callrtnltaii AmfMlhtalrl. (See page 111.) 

led" b'y I TOMBB AKD MAUBOLEUUB. 

Jiftfia, I Many of thcia lined the roads ouUlde the G.tei. 



Ac. Hens Ihe body of Rlcnil VBi hurut. I3M, by 

•Tamb^ Crci'la Mrltlla, on the Applan Way. 

of Ihe CnStani tamUy, Dcdiealf dlo the wife at the 
Y«UDg«rCta»u9. A round building, «^ leel hlgii, 
on A ■^aaTfi bnBc 90 fflet dEaraeter. lujdo of blockt 

afortross In the founeontb centvry, when batlle- 

solld. It Btainl» 111 a plenwrit »ix)t. with licwi of 
tbe SBbliie and AltHui Hills. "'Tlilt It tbe oldeit 
bulldUif of Imperial lEome, of jui anthcntle date, 
nTiJl tho best upocliDen of a Romnn lumb remabi- 
In I," — Ffrguvon- 

•TOmiefCaiui Caliai.BteLTFuna B. Pnola. Uultt 
In J3U days, -dlebva ccohik^" lii the rclsii of 
Angvitni. nnd TopnlriHl 11183, It In a murlilo 
I'lmmbt on ■ tniTerWoo haw. Tie vaulted cham- 
ber fnaldelB decorated with coloured arabetquci, 
and lapportcd by Doric coIvuiub of fluted marble. 



witirplla "^ Ol 



wauiVf i«"'"B 
uenn. tareophi 

, opposite I Eiiij Vat. 



[Section 2 

when that of Antnitua, on thi 



iT popes, with 



Ituiri), for a fixed h< 






with Muceo Droani 









ftnt Punic 


ot pepertno si 


lone. In th 


samei^M 


bof Ih 




men of OcUita. Inlha 






columborl 


of Cuciua 


Hyli 




Pomponlav 


Ullna. 


culaC 




bnUtbyCoc 


stanllncon 




t.and 


turned Into 


aehurohby 



Ihe addllloni made by llonorlns were removed. 

"E8t"h0C MOHrMENTVM MARCEl'vKn^ 
GlLBt EUBT8ACIS PI8TOHI8 BEDEHPTO- 
RIS APPABBT." 

Tomb of Sn-ffiM Stop, Oalba, ereat-grandfathcr 
ot the Enipeior Galba. cnnsal b.c. 30«. tbe founder 
ol the Horrea Sulplcia (public (frannrj- and rioro- 
housc) iDetilloued by Horace. Near Monte Toi- 



ound (ISet) on 



VILLAS. 



IS Villi 



the ncltihbourhood of the city were altnatad, 
Ion, especially on the Via AH>ia ui"via 



I Flamlnlan Way (elghlb 
ixcaialed. and a fine dlr- 
ta. found, 11 feet hl«L. 
the drapery ; aleo aertral 



IB — BXCDBaiONg. 



Allermrdi. >■ tbo nnniwiity of tlia cnpltiil 
nuIarU, whlob In noi Incidental to the kM. In 



neeleclid dnlnoEC J 

adewrtforlOtoMm 



itlimouti tKTniid wlikh cu 
rhp Isnd 111 chiefly pmlnr 



the whota arc reiitoii by a corpvrAlo body, called 
ment. The nraren'h^lh ■re^'lilonta Albuio nnd 



1. OabUMmta.— The largent » 
rd, iieBr Ihc Church of B, SehistI 



idtheVi. 






aawnllj 



Ikt. Tliere n 

Via Silsra. Heaily HOO ca1acornb> have been 
corend. They are called Artiarix, from 

■ - flBl'tw Imlldlngj wrre KHneliniu 
bnhllatloiiKhyfliuirOhilitliiili, and 
Muiul'plaoufl even dowK tu tho thlr- 

/. En Knu parEi Dtb gallerlea are to 

be leen one over the other. Fadra UareM. In hit 
"Uonnnientl PrimlllTl," ontlnata the total length 
at UO caller andealculUM that T,MO.UD(i bodies 
are depotlted here, 

Th* mhurriineaii Eallcrla wen originally a 
Pagan Inalitutlan, llie oldest belonslng lu th« 
flnt ecntory, A.D. Thine contain liitcrlptlnni 
tn-'D.M.," or-'DlliManlbiu;" and in Ibem are 
found freicDcs ■! early *9 the iKond century. 



■hown In tbs calaconlu In tho Vlisrna Randanlnl. 
oiipoiiito St. SeMstlan, oncndd in 1R50. A Jewish 
CemoletT, mens recently excaTnted, li on one 
level, the >rn>lnls bein; occaiionalti' mixed wllh 
heaUien lymbola. Tho larite number uf Inacrlp- 






From the ronih drawiiiin f oi 
or grelloea, we iKet the word "b 
Caatallanl, In VU d[ Poll, baa 






i1-.t» and m.irtyn 
ailed CappL'lla del 



ISM. Only tvo of 
though liolli Antcroe and 
the current marlyralogy. 

rei]ionden[ or Cyprian. 

" On tK"Si'ot'uS?ea 
eevered In IMS, 1> a ati^i 
whom Dean Bnrgnii anjif 



S8S); "Fahlanoa, hliibop 
• ^'Ccmcllua. martyr ana 
ii'lus" (>.D. 3iu>: "Euiy- 
'Sl. Tlioilaln were found 

ire Included la 



nnity. Cardinal Wiseman 
TheEniiieror and Empresa 



mt eijiecluTly the former, were, accordlns lo tho 
Itnman cuatoni. lined vlth tombi and columbaria (» 

a which remain, In common with other objects of 

irlek-work. bereft of tholrnarb'le ornaments; and 

he road, Tho Via Appla was made t.c, Sli. by 
ynpiua ClBDdinr the cenaor. aa far aa Capua, and 



of which are deacribed under Ihelr proper head: 
In dear woalhcr tho aoa comes Into rtew acnn 

" ThiBfa bi Ihi ntia cut roimd tUn •>« BBd ■•• 
Wbu snau hHbif Icnlh srsWrliic hi i 

Hullni. or •■ Minn. la ntm al ilsth 



BBADBOAWI 



It Tomb of tk< S< 



laaci^pllons pnl tacre Im 
■n ihtee Culambaiim li 
tho Almoiic. or Aennnti 

■0 caUeX'accnrdlna 



Iinl tbti qnotinn ti> hlni. Tbe 



PrlKllla rucu 

Appi*. Ihcn in rcmnlin, In The Vigoi' Vagnoiliil 
to Iht iBfl, of llin luriteM ™iumb»rliiDi yet (ou"d. 
N«nr lien in tho Catniwinix of St. CbIIUdi 

diTldos Into Iho Via M'pi^ P^gnatclll and^''hs 
Vis Apiila Antlu. Paumg tlia (alranco to the 
Jtttiib Culacamb (Vlgna Rindiinlnl) t he Chnnh at 
S, Bebaitlsn In reached. Ulow which stp the Cata- 
comb* m 8. Bgi«itUn. onlond Irem tho churcH. 
~ heCIrenaof Miii«tliH<i««|iafrs31I;, 



eallod Caiale Kotondo. wlih ■ tiooie and olWo 
ganlen on ]t> auumlt. Near thli ii tho Tomb of 

Villi and Tomb of Gallleno., near Tra Tabtnut. 



St 8t. Potor't, 1 



p. 390-11) |. 



B'a. Petranll 



a Appln 



will k 



IS-, 



MonM 



-culled TeRipie'of lhe'i>eu~Redii:i 

1. To R'Ucatl,^,TaieuJiim, and Albano, 

lie branch from Clam- 
II 3| mllei by brnacb 






t, mil., fo 

iian Mouii 



K hljh. Thl> Bi 



m. Br.rail MClowl iho 

iitViiTl^'mii, which Jostn tlw TDMnlHii Hllii to 
llie Baiil, oflt. Tbeaaclanl tJly ot A'ba, <ii Alia 
^"V^, mnimthe eart thh ef the Inkf, hut 



be^n In IB4II, ci 
(>iMnt« pairs), 
)• I.OIM lea loni[ 

""^mlly.b^ 



.laholFhIofnearly « 
called Tomb of Pompi 



ire they, wlih other InhaMtania 
irc traniponed tn the Collan at 
iplendld ilew of the CatDpeena, 



I Alian Luke, or Lago Caitollt 
g» lect above the >ea. and I 
I forn>erly the crater n( a vqIc.i 
nearly Wl feet ileei 



Jl by 1, 



It for Alban 
Dlsurlum. II 
«arplii» wal, 



1. were added to an old cutl* of Ihe 
,11 rnnilly. 
Karlao (Btat.), mpnlatlon, ifiw, lO mllu 




BOMB— TKAHATI, T 



tracMdtjpwMidiroiunl. A ro.d wlndi up Iroin 


lana, believed 


thig to tho Ultle town ol Rocu di Pau (popnlit- 




tlon, 1,000), and a pliln cillnd tb* Csmpodl Annl- 


Bonaparte, then 


bitl«: Ihwice through cheamal wood, to 




ManU Cart, or tho Albin Monnt, S.OOOfeot iibors 


ticw tamlly. On 








ploce of Calo 


bFC«din«IYork.th.l«taiimr.. InlhlttomplB. 




the Lath, irlhra offerod ytirly .ncrlfice. ind the 


SnotS'^Ehe^r 










thoro ire traca. The Tlew tskei In the whiiU 




C™p^-. toonded br tho Sablno HUI^ Monte 


^Te™t,'J5 


Boricte. Uonle Cioilno. £c, on one side, and the 



II VillaIluanellii,i>rTiucB- 



ai Toaonlnni, the binb- 

-.e down to llsl. RmuiUit 
:[tade], and ampbllheatrt, 

Br and brother. CbailM 

ledbj 

, and a third peak, HddM 

If Honte^fniio, li tl 
Lett ScgUltu, fanwDi 




Lodiwtal; riiU AlMOjMl, ballc UU, wUJi b \ KHcns WMt 



222 



BRADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 2. 



valley of tlie " prasceiw Anio," or Teverone, which 
here tumbles over the clifftf and forms a scries of 
rapids. It is a bishop's see (population, 8,000), and 
contains several narrow steep streets, on the site 
of the old Latin city, not far from the Sabine 
borders. Hotels: Regina; Sibilla. Its healthy 
situation and fine prospects made it a favourite 
resort of Scipio iEmilianus, Marius, M. Plancus, 
Maecenas, and other eminent Romans. Augustus 
and Horace came here to visit Miecenas, and Queen 
Zcnobia spent a pleasant banishment here. It 
submitted to the Pope in the twelfth century, after 
some hard fights with the Abbots of Subiaco. 

The cathedral was built out of the ruins of the 
Temple of Hercules, which stood on the site ; its 
cella remains. The Church of tlie Madonna di 
Quintiliolo is near the remains of the Villa of 
Quintilius Varus, on a hill facing MoicenAs's Villa. 
Near the Roman gate are remains of flK4>ctagon 
temple, or tomb, called Tosse. There is a Roman 
bridge at Ponte Cello, or Ponticeili. The fine old 
castle was built by Pius II. Massive remains of 
the Claudian Aqueduct are seen here and there. 

The well known fine *Temple of the Sibyl (called 
Sibilia), or of Vesta, once used as a church, stands 
on the extreme edge of a cliff, opposite the 
falls, a truly picturesque ruin. ItVas circular, 
of the age of Augustus, and is inscribed ''L. 
Oellio L. F." Ten out of its eighteen Corinthian 
pillars remain. Soane has imitated this architec- 
tural relic at the Moorgate-street comer of the 
Banic of England; and Lord Bristol would have 
brought the original to England, had not the 
Roman Government interfered to prevent its 
removal. 

Jfxeenas's Villa Is on the highest ridge here, the 
rock being pierced by the Via Tiburtina below. It 
commands a distant view of Rome, and the rocks 
and falls of the river. The chief remains are a 
range of tall Doric arcades, now used as an iron 
work, where the electro-motors are established. 
Uoraee^t Villa is pointed out by the guides as 
standing opposite to Maecenas's, near Solfatara 
Baths; but this, and also the Villa of Sallust 
(near St. Antonio's Hermitage), the Villa of Catul- 
lus (near the Cascades), the Villa of Cassius, dec, 
are of doubtful identity. 

A path made by General Miollis leads from the 
Temple of the Sibyl to the grotto, or cave, of 
Neptune, where there is a fine view of the falling 
waters. There is another from the Syren's Cave, 
lower down. 

The Anio narrows as it comes near Tivoli, and is 

divided into numerous cascades (820 feet down) by 

the rocks wliich it meets in the course of a couple of 

miles. The poet Gray in his Letters praises the sight 

as the "noblest in the world. You liaveat one view 

these cascades, intermixed with groves of olives 

and little woods, the mountains rising behind them, 

ojjdon tJje top ono, at the extremity of one of the 

^^a/r c/rcJc's horns, is seated the town itself. At 

ff/f^^^^^^oJtro/tliMt extremity, on the brink 

^ito precipice, BUnav the Sibyl's Temple. AU 



this on oAe hand ; on the other the open Campagna 
of Rome. Here and there a little castle on a hil- 
lock, and the city itself on the very brink of the 
horizon, indistinctly seen (being 18 miles off), 
except the dome of St. Peter's." This beautiful 
spot, which is " all one picture," as Forsyth says, 
was visited by the Prince of Wales in 1859. 

The water-power is being utilised for driving 
two dynamo-electric machines for illuminating 
the town. 

Near MaN;enas's Villa is the VUfa cTEste, belong- 
ing to Cardinal Prince HohenlShe by gift from the 
ex-Duke of Modena; built in 1549, by Cardinal 
d'Estc, having frescoes by Zuccari and Muziano, 
with terraces, parterres, fountains, avenues of 
pines, &c. It is occasionally closed. Gray 
describes it as a house *' being in circumference 
a quarter of a mile two feet and an inch; the 
said house containing the following particulars, 
to wit, a great room; item, another great 
room; item, a bigger room; item, another room; 
Item, a vast room; item, a sixth of the same; a 
seventh ditto; an eighth as before; a ninth, as 
aforesaid ; a tenth, see No. 1 ; then ten more such; 
besides twenty ; besides others, which, not to be 
too particalar, we shall pass over. The said 
rooms contain nine chairs, two tables, five stools, 
and a cricket." The view from it is splendid. 

The Tivoli quarries yield the hard travertine 
stone, of which the Colosseum and St. Peter's are 
built. The pizzatello and pergolcse gprapes are 
grown here. 

The Anio supplied Rome with water by the Anio 
Vetus and Novus aqueducts. Following the river, 
at eight miles above Tivoli^ is Vicovaro, the Vana 
of Horace, from which the Digentia, which falls 
in here, may be ascended to Rocca Giovanne and 
Colle del Poetello, near Horace's Sabine Farm, 
which some antiquaries place here at the foot of 
Monte Gorgnaleto. His "gclidus Algridns" and 
"nive candidum Soracte" are in xicw. To Vico- 
varo, great crowds were brought to see a winking 
Madonna in July, 1863. Ascending the Anio, we 
come to Subiaco, the ancient Subalqueum, and 
the head-quarters of the Benedictine order, at the 
monasteries of St. Scholastica, in a circle of the 
Sabine hills. The Pope is titular abbot of the 
old Abbey of Sacro Speco. Here Nero had a 
villa; and here Claude Lorraine and Ponssin 
painted and acquired their peculiar effects. The 
head of the river is at Trevi, above. 

Rail from Tivoli to Castel Madama and OinetO 
Romano, in the hills. 

5. To Ostia.— A visit to this ancient port of 
Rome, 18 miles distant, takes three or four hours. 
The road is along the Via Ostiensis, out of Porta 
S. Paolo, giving a glimpse of the Protestant Ceme- 
tery, the pyramid of Caius Cestius, and the Temple 
of Hercules, at the exit from the gate. The scenery 
is some of the best along the roads out of Rome. 
Nothing but AYi^ •'wnblQ Campagna is seen, with 
aa occa6\oiiA\ vrreW oi Vtk^ vm»R«\\i«cA& ol cattle. 



Boute 32.] 



HOME— 08TIA, FIUMICINO. 



223 



flocks of sheep, with few shrubs or trees, and 
scarcely any houses. On the rlg^ht is the muddy 
and monotonous Tiber. Traces of the pavement 
of the ancient Via are seen ; the road is good. 

The modern Ostla, on the south fork of thcTibor's 
delta, is a bishop's see, fotinded by Gregory IX. 
in 830, but is decayed, like its predecessor, having 
a regular population of scarcely fifty inhabitants. 
It contains a small cathedral, a bishop's palace, a 
small castle, built by Sangallo for Sixtus IV., and 
a few houses. The Osteria is a ver>' humble inn. 

About I a mile from it, near Torre Boacciana, 
is the site of the ancient city of 

Ostium Tibernium^ the old port of Rome, founded 
by Ancus Martius; which once had a popula- 
tion of 80,000. For a time it had no regu- 
lar harbour, but was a mere unprotected anchor- 
age, which Claudius improved by building 
two moles and a light tower. It is now 2 to 3 
miles from the sea, which recedes at the rate of 
12 feet a year. From this cause it was choked up 
In Strabo's time, and by the sixth century it was 
desei-ted. Several of its buildings have been 
broken up for lime. **Aview of recent excava- 
tions will make amends," says Dean Burgon, " for 
thorough journey." It is another Pompeii. Whole 
streets have been uncovered, and remains of 

Ealaces and baths displayed in perfect order, with 
ases of columns, bits of marble, and other frag- 
ments of gates, houses, shops, temples, and theatres. 

Extensive and systematic excavations are now 
being conducted under the superintendence of Prof. 
Lanciati. 



The old deserted Church of S. Ippolito, near this, 
is named after the celebrated Hippolytus, one of 
the first bishops of this see. Opposite it, on the 
north fork of the delta (or Isola Sacra, as it is 
called). Is Fltunlcino (Stat.;* near Porto, and 
the site of Portus Trajani, now choked with sand. 
Fiuuiicino is the modem port, now under improve- 
ment according to plans of Garibaldi and Prince 
Torlonia, and accessible by a branch rail from 
Pontcgalera. It has a pier, church, inn, shops, 
good bathing, and a Stabilimento di Bagni. 
Catlredral and Torlonia Villa, at Porto. 

From Ostia the Via Severiana passes along the 
coast, southwards, formerly lined with villas, 
through Castcl Fusano, a fine seat of the Chigl 
family, in a pine forest, with a view of the Medi- 
terranean ; and on to Porto d'Anzio, or Antium^ 
which furnished the beaks of the ships In the 
Rostra at Rome. It was occupied by H.M.S. Edin- 
burgh in 1811, for the Pope. H«re are modern 
Villas of the Borghese, Cor^^lnl, and other f Mmllles, 
with remains of old ones built by the Romans, 
with whom it was a favourite sea-side retreat. 
Claudius and Nero were bom here ; and here the 
Apollo Belvedere was discovered. Anzlo may be 
reached from Rome by rail to Cecchlna, thence 
steam-tramway, with through tickets. 

For Veil, and other Etmscan towns, see Route 26, 
page 143. CoRi (ancient Cora) and Seqsi 
(ancient Signia), in the Volscian Hills, are old 
towns, with remains of massive walls. The first 
Is accessible by rail from Rome to Vclletrl, thence 
10^ miles by road. Segnl Is a station a little 
farther than Velletrl ; the old city is 2 hours 
distant by walking. | 



SECTION III. 

SOUTH ITALY-SICILY-SAEDINIAe 



"^.amt ta 1|alierm0^ 



THE ABRUZZI—BASILICATA— CALABRIA— &c. 
NAPLES AND ITS ENVIRONS. 

VESUVIUS— POMPEII— SORRENTO— P-.ESTUM—POZZUOLI, 

THE BAY AND ISLANDS. 

PESCARA— EOGGIA— OTRANTO— COSENZA— EEGGIO. 

PALERMO— MESSINA— SYRACUSE— ETNA— AND THE LIPARI 

ISLANDS. 

THE ISLAND OF SARDINIA. 



SECTION III.— SOUTH ITALY. 



QfB — Continuea. 

Rome to Naples, Yxy railway, vi& Oiam- 
plno, Albano, Velletrl, Froginone, Cep- 
rano, Fresenzano, Capua, Caneello, ft& ; 
or by Road, Y\k Terradna, Fondl, and 
GaSta, and fhe Coast. 

By raiL, 16U miles, four trains daily, in 6^ to 10 
bonrs. Buffet at Ceprano, near the frontier of the 
former Pontifical States. A coach from Yelletri 
runs to Terracina, on the coast. 

The ttations are as follow :— 



Miles. 

Ciampino 8f 

Marino 10 

Cecchina-Albano ... 18 

Civita Lavinia 20§ 

Velletri 26 

Yalmontone 35^ 

Segni 40i 

Anag^ii 46| 

Sgurgota 49 

Ferentino 65^ 

Frosinone 60i 

Ceccano 65 

Pofi Castro 70 

Ceprano 76i 

Isoletta 77i 

Roccasecca 82| 

Aquino 85^ 

Cassino 93) 



Miles. 

Mignano 108| 

Presenzano 108 

Caianiello 112i 

Riardo 117| 

Teano 120* 

Sparanise 124| 

Pignataro 128) 

Capua IS^i 

Santa Maria 137i 

Cascrta 141 

[Foggia line to Naples.] 

Maddaloni 144 

[To Foggia from Naples.] 

Caneello 148| 

[Branch to Laura.] 

Acerra )62| 

CasalnuoTO 155| 

Naples 16l| 



Roccad^Evandro... 98| 

Rome. — The terminus is near Porta Maggiore 
and the Baths of Diocletian. Leaving the city, the 
first place on the line is 

Ciampino (Stat.), where the branch line 
turns on to Frascati, Tusculum, Ac, in the Alban 
Hills (see page 220). A tram is open to this place, 
and to Marino beyond. Here and there arc seen 
remains of great aqueducts, and the Tombs of 
Pompey, Domitian, Amus, &c. The line then 
crosses the Via Appia, and winds round the base 
of the hills to 

Marino (Stat.), on the Appian Way. Then 

CeccMna-Albano (Stat.), tram line to Albano, 
(see page 220) 8| miles, near the Alban Lake, Monte- 

Sore, and Corioli^ from which Coriolanus obtaine d 
M fiunou mnutsie. Branch line to KettniiO, 



on the coast, 19| miles, through Porta d' Ansio. 
Nettuno is the ancient Antium; with the beaks of 
the ships taken at this battle the Rostrum of the 
Forum was adorned. 

Civita Lavinia (Stat.), near the site of Lanu- 
vium (the birth-place of Antoninns Pius) and the 
Via Appia, which strikes right across the Pontine 
Marches. Good natire Roman wine is grown here, 
worth 4 to 6 lire a bottle. The railway crosses 
the Via Appia once more to 

Velletri (Stat.), the site of VaUrne, an old city 
of the Volscians, and the birth-place of Augustus, 
picturesquely seated half-way up Monte Artemesio 
in the Alban Hills. Its ruined walls were built by 
Coriolanus. Its first inhabitants were carried to 
Rome, and are said to be the progenitors of the 
residents in the Trasterere. Population, 16,000. 
The Palazzo Lancelotti is the work of M. Lunghi. 
Near this was found the Velletri Pallas, now in the 
Louvre. Here the railway, leaving the old route 
towards the N aples frontier, along the Appian Way, 
strikes inland among the hills; but a coach leaves 
the station for the old route, as far as Terracina, 
to which a line is commenced. 

[The old Coach Route on the Via Appia is perfectly 
straight and level, and lined with trees. It passes 
Tret Taberna, or Three Taverns, where St. Paul met 
the brethren from Rome; Cistema and Its oak 
woods, having on the left, Cora^ or Cor»*, an old 
Volscian town with two ancient temples ; Norha 
(now Norma); and Setia (or Sezza). At Tre Ponti 
Tower, or TV't^^xm/f'tfm (there is a Roman bridge still), 
the Pomptine, or Pontine Marshes^ begin, and extend 
to Terracina, 181eagues; a fertile but watery tract, 
formerly well drained and peopled, and embracing 
upwards of twenty villages. Between 1777 and 1781, 
the work of drainage was resumed by Pius VI. ; and 
ditches were made to the Navi^lio' Grande Canal, 
which runs bv the side of the road and represents 
the canal of Augustus, on which Horace embarked 
on his journey to Brunduf^ium. Foro Appio (Appii 
Forum), where he took boat, between Treponti and 
Bocca di Flume, was then a g^eat place for barge- 
men and tavern-keepers. Two ancient milestones 
of the Via Appia and a tomb are seen near this ; 
and, to the left, Privemum^ the birth-place of 
Camillus. Buffaloes, grey oxen, goats, horse*>, wild 

geese, Ac, are seen among the tweet smelling 
owers, canes, and long grass, backed h^ ^ha^ 
Yolsdan Hills. 



2^ 



fiftAbSHAw's ITAtY, 



[Section 3. 



**Thongh the Pontine Marshes are now an un- 
healthy swamp, the inhabitants of which Hhow the 
effects of malaria in their faces, yet the scene 
altogether is much more interesting and even 
beautiful than we expected to find. The morning 
was brilliant; the yellow canes contrasted well in 
colour with the deep blue pools of water, over 
which hovered birds of various leinds; and the 
large herds of cattle — fine grey, handsome crea- 
tures—standing in picturesque groups near the 
road, and gazing at us with their soft brown eyes, 
that form in their mild expression eo striking a 
contrast with their formidable horns; with the 
little black dots in the distance, which we only 
know to be buffaloes from their colour and their 
numbers ; all tended to give great life to the plain. 
The mountains were still more attractive; for 
their forms vary with every mile of the road, and 
with their snowy summits and the purple shadows 
revealing glens and hollows we longed to explore, 
they not only broke the monotony of the plain but 
rendered it more striking by contrast." — Miss 
Catlow's Sketches of Travel. 

Approaching Terracina, the Circean Promon- 
tory (Monte Circello) is seen on the right. Here 
the Romans came to hunt the wild boar and eat 
oysters. 

Terracina (population, 5,000), where Horace's 
canal trip terminated, is on the Qoast of the Gulf 
of GaSta, at a pass between the sea and the pre- 
cipitous hills, which come down close to the water. 
It Is the ancient Anxur, Trachna, or Tarracina; 
now a picturesque but half-ruined place, containing 
remains of its old walls and castle; a Cathedral, 
in a half -Byzantine style, on the site of a Roman 
temple; Pius VI.'s Villa, and theruinrfof Theo- 
doric's Palace, on a height. From this are exten- 
sive sea views, of the Gulf of GaSta and its for- 
tress; of Procida, Ischia, Ac, at the comer of 
KaplesBay; of the Pouza Group ; and of Vcndo- 
tena, the ancient Pandateria, the place of exile of 
Augustus's daughter, Julia, her daughter, Agrip- 
I ina, and Nero's wife, Octavia. The road follows 
the Via Appia, througn a defile, the Lautula, or 
Portella Pass, celebrated in the Samnian wai's. 
Houses and mediaeval towers are perched on the 
rocks, covered with golden wallflowers. The 
citron, palm, and other marks of the south are 
■ecn, but there is a want of trees and grass. 

ToRBfi de' CoKFiNi, the last place on the former 
Papal territory. 

PoBTELLA, in the province of Terra di Lavoro 
(i.c.. Land of Labour, which here means that very 
little is required), or the Garden of Campania Felix, 
in the Kingdom of Italy. The old Castle of Mon- 
ticelli stands on the heights. A lake here lines 
the shore of the ancii-nt Bay of Amyclas. 

Fondii consisting of a long narrow street in the 

Pass, celebrated for its Cffioubian wine; for its 

Jua, the scene of Washington Irvlng'a story; for 

/ts banditSf Fra Diavolo (whose real name was 

JUJcbeJe Pezza) and Mammone ; and for the Domi- 

,A.-^ Oonrent, in which 8t. TV^omAsAquJlias lived. 

**'»'h 6,2J2. In 1634, the boantUvLl widow 



of Prosper Colonna, lord of the town, was nearly 
carried off by the brother of the Turkish corsair, 
Barbarossa ^Red Beard), who intended to make a 
present of her to 8oliman II. An inn is called 
Locanda Barbarossa. Ascend to 

Itri, on a height at the end of the pass, with its 
picturesque castle, and a population of 4,000. To 
the right is a round tower, on a square, commonly 
believed to be Cicero's Tomb. 

Formia (Hotel), lately Mola di QaJeta. (popula- 
tion, 8,203), the site of Formiae, whose wine Horace 
compares to Falcmian. The Villa Caposelc is the 
site of Cicero's VUla Formianum, where he met and 
conferred with Caesar before joining Pompey. 
Here he was assassinated in his sixty-fourth year, 
by the messengers of Anthony, one of the 
murderers being a tribune whom Cicero had suc- 
cessfully defended in a trial for his life. In the 
gardens behind are the Baths of Cicero; and a 
biiilding called the Tower of Cicero (see above) is 
supposed to be his grave. The bay oefore it, the 
Sinus Fotinianus, is a rival to that at Naples for 
beauty. Vesuvius and the islands are in view. 
To the right of Formia, out of the road, on a 
high rock over the sea, four miles distant (omnibus), 
is 

Gaeta (population, 10,344), a bishop's see, and 
the Ca;e/a of ^neas, founded liyhim in memory of 
his nurse, on the Bay of Ga^ta. Since 1440, it has 
been a strong fortress, the key of this part of 
Italy, and has undergone several sieges ; the latest 
of which was that of 1860-61, when it was taken 
from the ex-king of Naples by the Sardinian 
army and fleet. The tomb of the Constable Bour- 
bon, killed at Rome, 1528, is in the citadel. At 
the summit of the height is the tomb of L. M. 
Plancus (the friend of Augrustus), called the Torre 
d'Orlando. In the Duomo is a P. Veronese, with 
a standard of Don John of Austria, who fought at 
Lepanto, and an ancient marble sarcophagus. The 
palace was the residence of Pius IX., after his 
flight from Rome in 1849. A chapel Is in the 
mouth of a cleft, said to have been made by the 
earthquake at the Saviour's death. 

This place gave name to Cardinal Cajetan of 
Henry the VIII.'s time, now represented by the 
Gaetani, or Caetani, family. Francis II. was hero 
shut up from November, 1860, to February, 1861. 
with 16,000 men, and 800 gims, moimted on about 
thirty batteries. Cialdini's head-quarters during 
the investment and bombardment of the citadel 
were at Villa Caposele, iiear Cicero's Villa at 
Formia, to which a road four miles long, by Monte 
Conca, was made by the Sardinian soldiers. He 
was assisted on the sea side by Admiral Pcrsano, 
who was occasionally thwarted by the Frt-nch 
and Spanish squadrons. Gaeta was besieged by 
Massena in 1806, for six months. 

From Formia, the road crosses the plain of the 
Garigliano, marked by remains of an aqueduct 
and amphitheatre, &c., belonging to Mintumae^ in 
the marshes of which, at the mouth of the river, 
Mariufihid himself from the pursuitof Sulla, b.c. 89. 
The Oar{yHano;t\k« «lagsish Liris (*'tacitumn!t 



Route 32.] TEBBJLCIKA, OAETA, FERENTINO, FR08IN0NB, JLBCE. 



229 



Amnis") of Horace, and the old bonndary between 
Latium and Campania, is crossed by a wire bridge 
since 1832; replacing that which the Chevalier 
Bayard defended singly against a great number of 
Spaniards, at the battle of 1503, when the French 
were defeated by Gonzalvo da Cordova. 

The Via Appia here hugs the coast on the direct 
way to Naples; passing Mondragone, and the site of 
Sinuessa at ihe mouth of the Voltumo, where Horace 
met his friends Virgil and P. Varius ("O qui 
complexus et quanto gaudia fuermif), and 

Ayersa (Stkt.), a Korman town of the eleventh 
century, noted for its brisk wine, called Asprino, 
and its torrone, or almond cake. Population, 
20,183. 
But the high road goes on to 
Santa Agata, near SkssaAurunca (population, 
5,600), or Sucssa Arunca, on a volcanic height, 
wliich has three churches and a Roman bridge. 

Cascano. at the foot of Monte Massico, is in the 
Falernian tcine country; the vineyards of which 
are still celebrated. The entire district is noted 
for the good looks of the women.] 

Following the rail, the next place to Velletri is 
Ontanese. Then 

Valmontone (Stat.) A small town (popula- 
tion, 2,000) on a volcanic hill, with a palace of 
the Dorla-Pamfili family, built 16G2. 

Segrni (Stat.), near the site of Siffnia, on a hill 
in the Lepini hills. The town (population, 4.000) 
has a church which was a Roman temple, and is 
shut in by Cyclopean walls 4 miles in circuit, 
with seven gates. At Carpineto, a )OUt 10 miles 
up the hills, the pre>=ent Pope, Leo XIII. (Pecci), 
was born, in the old house of the Pecci family. 
Anagnl, or Anagnia, the ancient capital of the 
Hernici, and the place where Boniface VIII. was 
arrested (1303) by the agents of Philip le Bel, of 
France, whose kingdom the truculent Pope had 
placed under an interdict, and even offered to the 
Austrians. Boniface was of the Gagtani family, 
who were seated here, and. with the Conti and 
others, made up the Twelve Stars, or noble fami- 
lies, of Anagni. 

The line passes between Monte Cavo and Monte 
Cacume to 
Sgurgola (Stat.), near the River Sacco. 
FerentinO (Stat.) Population, 8,000. A 
bishop's see, near an old Volscian town up the hills, 
Fei-entinum, on the Via Latina, of which the Cy- 
clopean walls remain, rough and uncemented. 
The line descends the Sacco to 
Frosinone (Stat.), i^ear a town of 7,600 in- 
habitants, the site of the Hernician Frwino, on the 
Cossa. It stands on a hill in a cultivated spot, 
and was the head of a Papal delegation, which ex- 
tended to the Pontine Marshes and the coast, hav- 
ing a cathedral, castle, &c. Up the Cossa, the 
following places may be visited: — 1. Vekoij, a 
bishop's see, on a high hill. 2. Alatki (population 
10,000), a bishop's see, on a steep hill, among the 
Hexnicia Saxa, or Hernician Mountains, having « 
cathedral in a large open piazza at the summit. 
J.t retains its ancient uficemented Wftilt^ 3,000 yeui 



old, about 2 miles in circuit, built of irregular 
but well-fitted stones, some 6 to 9 feet long. These 
walls are 12 feet thick, and 60 feet high in some 
parts. The gate of the citadel is in the same Cyclo- 
pean style. 3. Further up the hills is a Carthu- 
sian Convent of Ti-isalti, in a solitary glen ; and 
at CoLLEPARDO (population, 1,000) is a fine stalac- 
tite Cave, 200 feet high to the top of its dome. 
Following the Sacco we come to 

Ceccano (Stat.), and 

Ceprano (Stat.), a wailed town, at the junction 
of the Sacco with the Garigliano, or Liris, on the 
old Neapolitan frontier, where Murat was de- 
feated ill J 815. It is about half-way to Naples, 
and has a buffet. Population, 4,000. 

[Here a road goes down to Gaeta, 25 miles, and 
another ascends the east, or Neapolitan, bank of the 
Garigliano, to Lake Cclano in tlic Apennines; the 
latter passes the following places : — 

1. Arce (popuTation, 6,184), the ancient Arx^ 
where Cicero's brother, Quintus, who was married 
to the sister of his friend Atticus, had a comitry 
seat. 2. Aki'INO, or Arpinum^ the birth-place of 
Cicei'o and M.irius; also of G. Cesari, the painter, 
usually called the Cavaliere d'Arpino. Popula- 
tion, 13,450. It is a bishop's sec, and stands among 
finely wooded scenery, on a double topped hill, near 
the junction of Fcbrcno with the main stream. On 
the highest point are remains of the old Volscian 
town, called Civitk Vecchia, including parts of 
uncemented walls, streets, and sewers, and a kind 
of triangular arch, called the Porta delV Arco^ 
made of overlapping stones; besides fragments of 
inscriptions and statues. 

The Church of Santa Maria di Civita is on the 
site of the Temple of Mercury, the Woolbearer. In 
the public square is a modern Town Hall, with 
busts of Cicero and Marlus, whose houses are actu- 
ally pointed out by the citizens. There is a Collegio 
Tulliano, named after the orator; and the initials 
of his full name, Marcus Tullius Cicero, are adopted 
as the town arms. When Arpino, in 1459, fell 
under the power of Pius II., the excellent ^neas 
Sylvius, he spared it for the sake of its two 
distinguished natives. It has manufactures of 
good cloth, leather, paper, parchment, «kc. White 
and coloured marble and iron are found in the 
hills around. There are several cascades on the 
Garigliano, the best of which is at the point of 
jmiction with the Febreno, where a small island, 
Isola di S. Paolo, is formed, corresponding to the 
"Amalthea" described by Cicero in his letters. 
Close to this is a ruined Dominican house, which 
was built oiit of the stones of his Villa; and 
another building on the river, called Casa Marl, 
is now a Trappist Convent. 

In this neighboui'hood one arch of a Roman 
bridge is left, called Ponte di Cicerone, which 
crossed the river, at a slope like a skew bridge. 

3. Bora, a bishop's see (population, 12,813), on 4 
hill close ottbe river, and under the Apf nnines* 
wlthreiuainaof its aufi\«o*.^'^i^*^^"^^«^^^'^^ 



■ bruieb of th< Olrlgllsnc 
s. Doir nnlled to PoDUOirvi 



4'AlltltlO. on a litl 



out hew, B. Oivlt* 
S. CaPUtTSUO, In a 



™pLe,lnd 



lo Cliur 



[SecUon S. 

It wu ■blihopi 
fcot WM rained In 
InaMi. Tbere ara 
. Including A Rgmui 
iric Tomple, ISO feel 



porple dye. ctdi^ facta Aqvinam. 
Pdnticoeto, near llils, on tho road u GKftn, 
Mas the head of a mall detached tract of Papal 
lerritory (now (wallowed up by the Italian klng- 
iIotd). nhlch Napateon CDnrerted Into a prlni^pilUr 
for Bemadmie, King of Siredon. Population, 

''Cauino (Stat.)— <r»n.' i 



It Laso <11 CelaQO 



l,eplctare> 






the work In ISSS.'and completed 



, anil Hants Vellno.] 



interesting rollcs of a temple In the CroceBsio 
Church; thearehesof an Amr^Uiialiv: a Bonion 

Monte Ctusino Honasterr, 'h* heid-qnaneri 

or the Benedictbie order, founded by St. Benedlet, 
ai fir back u OSS. It le the oldBM of the rellgloni 



a-year. It conulne a migniacent altar, Glord>uu>'> 
Consecration of the Chnreh. by Aleuuider II.. 
carred Bea» In tbe choir Burronnded hv Blty 
pillars, and a fine oritan. In theSoccorpoChapol 
below, are the Bibifi Grotto, and the bodies of 
hlmsell ana his Hlnter. In the Refectory Is the 
Miracle of the Leaves, by Itassano. 



tirwaffo lo ^vfigatio (aoQVBj- I ton* jiraDHcni, 

*.J»f »M&^«o« ef Jwnml and Fnsia^ p«na*& trttb a 
«oi/»rf«ji^«((innjO»piiI«tton, 1,6«) V.a>wir<i?««V 



Bonte 82.] 



MOMTB 0A88IKO, FRB8BVZAN0, TBANO, OJLPUi.. 



281 



antiquities, inscriptions, a carious chair of rosso 
antico, and painting^ by Giordano, Spagnoletto, 
and other artists. 

The monastery is closed to visitors from 12 to 
8-30 p.m. The monks now resident here are 
gentlem^i of independent means and cultivated 
minds. Its history has been written by its librarian, 
D. E. Gattolo. 

About 12 miles north, over Monte Cairo, is Atin($^ 
an old town of Latium, with some remains of walls. 

The railway follows the Capua road, to 

ROCCa d'E^andrO (Stat.) Population, 2,720. 

Mlgnano (Stat.) Population. 1,869. 

PresenzanO (Stat.), population, 978, near 
the junction of the road from Venafro and Pes- 
cara, across the Peninsula (Route 31). Pass 

CaianiellO (Stat.) Population, 990. A lino is 
behig constructed from hereto Isernia, joining the 
line of the Rete Adriatico, wliich is being laid from 
Campobasso (page 234) to Solmona. 

RlardO (Stat.) Population, 1,304. 

Teano (Stat.) The ancient Teanum, on the 
Savo, where three Roman ways met. Population, 
5,000. It has a cathedral, with remains of a 
feudal castle, and a Roman amphitheatre. It 
stands under the Rocca Monfina, an extinct volcano, 
to the north-west. 

Sparanlse (Stat.), population, 2.769; near 
Calvi (population, 2,750). the Roman Cales, where 
many remains of antiquity are found. A line is to 
be constructed from here to 6aeta(page 228). 

Plgnataro (Stat.) Population, 8,409. 

Oapua (Stat.), ''^7 miles from Maples, to which 
there are fiVe or six trains daily, and four to Samo 
and 8. Severino, at the back of Vesuvius and 
Pompeii. Capua,pop.l6,000(/iMW: Centre; Italia), 
is an archbirhop's hee, nnd a fortified town of the 
eleventh centuiy, on the deep and rapid Volturno, 
built out of the »>tones of the ancient city and the 
smaller town of Ceuilinum, which occupied the 
present site. Fragments of Roman colunms, 
friezes, inscriptions, Ac, are incorporated in the 
churches and jpuiilic structures, some of which are 
visible in the Gothic Cathedral, which also contains 
paintings by Solimena ; a mosaic of the Annuncia- 
tion; statues by Bernini, Ac; a Norman crypt, 
with a Roman tomb on granite pillars. At Porta 
Romana is an old statue of the Emperor Frederick 
II. (1286). The Ibrtifications, built in 1200, were 
improved by Vauban, and enlarged in 1855. A 
handsome railway viaduct traverses the river. 

Capua is at the foot of a ridge, and flanked on 
three sides by the Volturno, a muddy stream in a 
narrow valley, difficult to ford, but crossed by a 
good bridge. The strong fort of GnBta being be- 
hind it, the Bourbons, in 1860, resolved to make a 
final stand here and along the line of the Volturno, 
having an army of 40,000 men, including 7,000 
cavalry, to oppose Garibaldi, who had 24,000 men, 
half of them volunteers from the south, who occu- 
pied Sant*Angelo, Santa Maria. Maddalenl^ Caiarta, 
Ac Sant* Ang«lo it nndei* the lof tF Monte Tif aaoi 
Caaerta irai the bead-quartcis of Garibaldi. 



On the 19th September, Cajazso was taken by 
Colonel Tiirr, and retaken by the Bourbons, with 
the loss of 100 of Garibaldi's forces, especially 
among a company of Adolesccnti — mere boys — ^not 
more than fifteen, who were careless of danger, 
fought like lions, and were soon cut up. 

The Battleof the Volturno was fought Ist October, 
Francis ll.'s birthday, which, being reckoned aus- 
picious, he, ^^'ich a force of 30,UOU, attempted to 
cut through Garibaldi's army of 11,000. The 
Neapolitans were commanded by General Retucci, 
and the king was on the field, with his brothers. 
Counts Trani and Bari. Being supported by )fc 
powerful force of artillery, the attack was partly 
successful against the left and centre of Garibaldi's 
line. He himself was nearly shot. Colonel Dunn, 
the commander of the Sicilian brigade, was 
wounded; but Sant' Angclo, the key of the line, 
was successfully held by Medici, nnd, after a long 
and arduous day's fight, the Bourbor.swere finally 
driven back, with a loss of 8,000. That of Garibaldi 
was 2,000, but he took nine guns, nnd the next day 
5,000 surrendered themselves prisoners. 

Count Arrivabcne, following the army as a 
newspaper correspondent, was taken prisoner and 
carried to Gaeta, from which he was liberated in 
two weeks, as a naturalisen British subject, by the 
interference of our envoy, Mr. Elliot. This battle 
decided the fate of the Bourbon dynasty, and the king 
I ctreated to Gaeta, leaving a garrioon in Capua, 
which surrendered 2nfl November. It was fought 
before the arrival of the Sardinian forces, which 
had been pressing across the peninsula from Ancona 
and Manfredonia; but only two companies arrived 
by rail after the fight was over. An action took 
place subsequent to this, in which the British 
Legion, under Colonel Peard, took part. It was 
the only action in which they figured. They prove I 
unmanageable, and were sent home. 

On 11th October, Victor Emmanuel crossed into 
Neapolitan teriitory, and soon after met (}a'ibaldi 
at Santa Maria della Croce. between Calvi and 
Teano. Arrivabene describes the meeting : — " Our 
soldiers were drawn up in good order, and, although 
in rags, did not make a bad show. When the king 
made his appearance, followed by his f>talf, Gari- 
baldi advanced to meet him. It was a singular 
sight. The elegant and splendid nniform of the 
Piedmontese officers contrasted with the coarse 
garb of the Garibaldians. The general himself 
wore his wide-awake, a plain red flannel shirt, half 
covered by his American gray clonk, and a pair of 
black trousers. At his side hung his famous 
English sword, which had done such service at 
Catalafimi and Milazzo — a sword worth all the 
eml)roidered uniforms in the world. 

" The two great leaders of Italian unity cordially 
shook hands,and I could sec by ti>eir faces that that 
action was the expression of a true sentiment of 
afi'ection on Garibaldi's part, nnd of the greatest 
admiration pu the part of the king. He compll- 
merited the general by laylnc ^-bsX '«S»Im»^ %&sw 



232 



BRAD8HAW*8 ITALY. 



[Section 3. 



have been a reality for ten years to come. *It 
may be, sire,' answered Garibaldi, 'but I could 
not'have attempted my expedition liad not Victor 
Emmanuel been the most noble and generous of 
kings/ They tlien reviewed the patriot colimsns 
of 12,000. Whenever the soldiers cried 'Viva the 
King of Italy,' Victor Flmmanuel never failed to 
answer, 'Viva Garibaldi — Viva his army.' They 
then rode to Carmigliano f > r an hour. Garibaldi 
freely talking to the king of tlio »:llualion, and 
defending his policy at Naples. The king's army 
then took the load, drove the Bourb- ns over the 
Gariglianu into Ga(!ta, which was afterwards in- 
vested and taken." 

The Roman city of Capua Vetere was at the next 
place, a mile* nrarer Naples — 

Santa Maria di Capua (Stat.)> or Santa 

Maria Maggiokk. Population. 19,023. It was 
oriainally called VuUuvnum^ afterwards changed 
to Capua, a large anJ wealthy city, " altera Roma," 
as Cicero styles it, wi h a population of 800.000. 
It stood in a rich pi d'. p trtof that Terra di Lavoro, 
or Campania Felix, wh ch was the ruin ofHanuibal. 
Here, after tnc battle of Caiii.se, he cpcnt a delicious 
winter, when fortune turned ngdnst him; hence 
the saying, "Capuam Annibali Cannas fuisse." 
At the tirst opportuuiiy its jealous rival, Rome, 
pu'iishcd it for siding with Hannibal, by exter- 
minating the leading inliubitants, and it was finally 
ruined bv the Vandals. 

One of the mo>t noiceable remains of old mag- 
nificence \ii\\(i*AinphWieatre.ofvf\iic\i somearches 
find subterranean fragments arc left. It was about 
550 feet by 460 feet, and 90 feet high, in three 
storeys of the Doric order, and might have held 
40,000 spectators. It is said to be a very old one, 
and was restored by Hadrian. From this point 
is a fine prospect of Monte Tifata and Monte 
Tabemo, beyond which is the disti let of Fiedmonte, 
in the Upi>er Volturno. Under Tifata are some 
hot springs, called theTV'e FUchi,or three whistles, 
now used to turn mills, but used ^8 baths by the 
Romans; an<i in the neighbourhood of Santa 
Maria are several spots once occupied by temples, 
called Bellona, Giano (Janus), Casolla (Casas 
Apollonis), Ercole, <fec., the roads to which were 
lined wim tombs. So many sepulchral vases, in 
the Etruscan style, have been found, often packed 
in r.'ws, tliat it is supposed there was h factory 
for them here. It was the fertile district round 
Capua, the "ager orbisterrsepulcherrimus," which 
C«sar divided among 20,000 poor Roman citizens. 
Caserta (Stat.), where the Foggia line to 
Naples, rid Aversa, comes in. Population, 17,260, 
with Quartieri. The seat of the governor of the 
province of Terra dl Lavoro, and a bishop's see, 
under several heights. It includes Caserta Vecchia, 
aurroTinded by massive Norman fortifications, 
1,000 years old; and is celebrated for its Royal 
^a/a/^er Paface; an immense, but heavy-looking, 
p/Je (inava /r/kr) of travertine stone, built 1752, by 
^^Mnfrjtein. Here Ferdinand II. died; it was the 



The Palace forms a rectangle, 766 feet by 500, 
and 185 high to the balustrade, enclosing four 
courts, uniting in a noble centre hall, surrounded 
by sixty-four columns, and a staircase, which 
opens to all parts of the palace, and is imitated at 
Stafford House. Over this hall is a low dome; 
and there are square pavilions over each coi-ner 
of the pile. It is in four storeys, with about eighty 
windows in each, the two lower being rusticated, 
the two upper faced with rows of Ionic pilasters. 
There are three gateways in each side. Many parts 
are cased with rich marbles; especially the Chapel, 
which contains Bonito's Marriage of the Virgin, 
and a Presentation by R. Mcngs; and tlie Theatre, 
resting on sJ.xtcen ancient alabaster columns, from 
the temple of Serapis, at Pozznoli. 

The fl mu-ns, extending towards Monte Tifata, 
are laid out in the style of Versailles, with statuary, 
ponds, &c., and a waterfall, fed by an Aqueduct 
from a distance of 10 leagues. That part of it 
called Ponte della Valle is a fine work, composed 
of three rows of arches, ISO feet high In the whole. 

Maddalonl (Stat.), where the line to Bene- 
vento and Foggia goes off (Route 85). Here are 
an old church and castle. 

CancellO (Stat.), where the branch to Nola 
and Laura turns off, round the back of Vesuvius. 
Here is an old castle. There is a road to Arienzo 
and Benevento, which goes through Forchi d'Ar- 
paja, the famous Furcse Caudinae. or Caudine 
Forks, on Via Appia, where the Romans wore 
caught by theSamnitesand passed tmder the yoke. 

[The branch line passes 

Nola (Stat.) A bishop's see and old city 
(population, 12,9«4), where Augustus died; with 
large barracks, <kc. In the cathedral are Massac- 
cio's bas-reliefs, commemorating the meeting of 
Robert of Anjou and Andrew of Hungary, in 1833. 
Here Hannibal had two battles with the Consul 
Marcellus. Here church bells (campane) were 
invented. It is famous also for the Nolan, or 
Campanian, pottery found here, resembling the 
Etruscan. 

Palma(Stat.), population, 6,973, five miles from 
Vesuvius, near remains of a Roman aqueduct. 

Samo (Stat.), population, 16,874, close to an 
old castle, on the Samo ; 6 or 7 miles from Pom- 
peii, and 10 from Cava. 

Codola (Stat ) Branch line to Nocera del 
Pagani on tlie Naples-Meta))onto line, see page 254. 

Castel Sangiorgio (Stat.), population, 5,470. 

Then SanseverlllO (Stat.); whence it is con- 
tinued to Montoro, Solo&a, and Ayellino (see 
Route 35).] 

A line, opened May, 1885, now runs from Can- 
cello to Torre Annunziata (page 250X joining tli« 
latter with Caserta. 

From Cancello, towards Naples, the next plaee It 

Aoexra (Stat.) A bishops see, the ancient 
AcerrsB, on the River Lagrni. Population, 11,274. 
Its Gothic Cathedral has a painting by Solimena. 

CasalnUOYO (Stat.), population, 3,860. 

Yiz^VM'l^scataMM^titf^rtadeiCarmin^* (S^ 



Route 33.] CASBRTA, CBIKTI, 

KOXTTB sa. 

CMtellammajfl toChlatl, Popoll, Bolmowt, 
Iierala, Capna, Bind Kaplas. 

Byrmil 






l.C«« 
B. Vilaiii 



=.. a 



Boccn lUTin. 

. Rnllto 



43 

2- Btmam Posu. i;npuH..p....... vtf 

Kticca Vallo Oacnra, 1 Niplu. 37) 

OastellMnmare-AdilaUco (Stat.), on tiis 
PsBcara (Stat.) 

Ohletl (Stat.), or Tkti, the old TiaU ilarmrl- 
norinn, or enpitil of the UHnndnl, now tho chief 
town of Abrniil Otn. nid an arahblihop'i K*. It 
wu Hcked by I>e[dn. sud nbalH by tho^oiniaiia. 
Sonie rragnHntf of old Komui bslldlDRa and ID- 
lerliitioni are teen here. Fotmlitlon, It,!'*- Itl> 

■ Pteaunt. well-bntit town. In ■ dne aittutloo. on 

■ hill, with a uthadral. and four nr Ave cbnrclwa: 

of gllla'and noollenB, nllli a I'rade In vino. oil. ai^ 
othgr prodnctt. IL elvoa nauje to tho TAalineorAvr 
of monka, loDiidi^d. 15!<, by Archbishop Carafa 



11,3-^9 popnIaMon, on a hill, 

Fnni Chieti. np the Fcacars. the rood (once 
Boihan way) pauei St. Val«IttUlD (Stat.), 1> 
twom lofly ranpH of hlUs, to 

ToccodnpulatlDu, e,119), where the beat oUi 



Toptia (atdt.), at the jmiction of the road from 
Anuifa (Home 31), to which a railway 1, open. It 

l^poll (popolallon, 0,1179) was a' Ions time nuder 
Ibe Conl«|ini family. Tha read aioendi the Rlsio. 
or Saelltarlo. to 

Peutlma (Stat.), p»p- 2.*i«, on the >ito o( cor- 

JltiuTn, an old (own of the Pellgnl, which led 
tha Italian Ponfcderaticn aiahiBt Komo la tho 

had at Bolmona. ' 
SolmoUKBtat), pop.l3,U£. in • fine mountain 



hishnp's sec, walled reund. and belonsi to the Bnr- 
irhoac (amity. The CalhnlriU la a handsome hnild- 
iDg. The Palsiio del Gomnnne Is In Iho Golhht 
itylt AlLa BadhiChntchlsiheTouihof Cador«, 



lO ^te of the old 



[below). 






Ternl, 81 mile 

Monle Majelli 
the Uimi Imt 



Iheiiee rail to CaUuollo. The Naplea 
;o (populnliou, *.\mx which hu a tood 



Rmcarasa, so called from tho jagged roekn 11 

C>9TE'L°ui*aAnoKO (popnlation. £.118), on tha 
Sangni, snrroandcd by piclnreaqiie nionntahis and 






iaidlul defeated tho 
iclcnt ^K<-nla. on th 



wm , ^. Rwifi^B VT>\\ 



nmiiuit of luitlquiiy l.i a piece ol an amphitlieatn 
oolsliie the wnlls. It li In the ptuvlnce at Tern 

Itemls. it ba<iHCal1iedrHi.^ii:hDrchea.hoi>pltiil, 



Maplei (Stat.) (S^c aonte ss.) 

ROXTTE 84. 
Peioara to Termoli. Fogsia, and llaii- 



Turuull 
Ciinpom 

Teicara (Stat.), at'oi 

toFogs!l». FromC^rtell 

8iilmona(Ro.it»i»l|. Pei 

Aqnlli. In tbe Abruii 
Honto Velllno. and 1 
TDrtuioCurAljcuiilU 
Cltrn). PesEamUs... . 
Hon, 5,000), which g«c birtt 

Frauoavllla (Stat.), t 



'edIildolhcprailncHOI 
a I .) and C hlctl (or AliTDz I 
Mil fantRed (own (popola 



OttWlMjStat.^, or Orlona a Mure, u uiclHll 
•'"-'. np n-iiJcl,. lowards Vnole EnoUito, Ilea 



i. nto Lonolano <Stat.), 



Taato (Stat), ">- 



Tennuli (Stat.) The Rami 



CamponaTlno (Btat.), > 



[Section 



the ancient cIlr^oT Saptntim. Tha reniali>lii 
place on the lino are o( no partlculir IniBfeet 
BenowntO, 107 inlle% «* pone 1M. 

OUontl SeiraeapHolB, population, c,bki. 




I 

J 



I 235 

le Gar- 

ndy; a 

left is 

!dl223, 

i: with 



j ded by 

'cdonia, 
of Dio- 
ve been 
St is so 
aro and 
)r miles 
; lakes. 
I Cannu 

bishop^s 
through 
tns, dkc.f 
It con- 
e. Here 
Sonnaz, 
sninsula 
le army 
i, under 
antM, or 
Is, 4.000 
linsula ; 
redonia, 
r of the 
es longf 
ed. 



distant, 
Angelo 
. Michael 
grim son 
s ancient 
•montory 






flMiair y««iiTliis and tba Uay. »ee aovu 
Hofcel CoDtinental. Well litoated, Qual Par- 



»Vittori« 



„ ton; der Europe; 8t. Pete]>bnrg et Cavour. 

tliflnopa (New Embankment). See Advt. Pmuions.—no%t\^ 1ls\d«clSi&i!^^ai^'S^'^^^>^Zj^^ 

jiotel Royal das Etnngers, new drst^«8i hold. \ Yani\\7 Y«^l^\oT^x'?^i^»Atft'^WJW^^V^O^«^*^ 



MJ/%0 *» a>MM» %» I 



nenqne; Waslilnj 



234 

The monnta 
comprises a s] 

The neighb< 
at one time n 
by bandits. 

A line is be! 
(pa^e 233X an 
at Gaianello (I 
pleted to Reco 

From Isorai 
the Voltumo, 

Venafro (i 

Horace, who p 
are as good ar 
tions, coins, &c 
remnant of an' 
outside the w 
di Lavoro, anc 
Isemia. It ha 
&c. Here the 
in his march t 
1860. Theroa- 

La Torrics 
Naples, near 

Tora-Presi 
Caianello (Si 

to 

Naples (SI 



Peflcara to 

(C< 

By rail (pa 

opened In 1863 

Francavllla .. 

Ortona 

S VitoLanclj 

Fossacesla 

Vasto 

Termoll 

Campomarino 

Pegcara (S 

to Foggia. Fr 
a line runs a< 
Solmona (Ron' 
of the Pcscar 
Aqulla, In tha 
Monte Vellinc 
Tcramo(orAI? 
Citra). Pesca 
tlon, 6,000), vril 
a celebrated * 
vlnce of AbrU 

^TAncavll] 
^S]!fff^jS^£E',^?r ^**«f. ^ ^«^ «n ancient 



^7»«^^^---nio?ra! 



FogfCU (Stat) HoM: Di KilOQO. ThU Oh 
proceeas to BiVadVuV vcid Otrimio (ne'lilH 
88). It \9 oti t\x« i«)>Vi K^t^>» ^>^« "(voiiMMiL Im 



rate 39.] 

plH to Uuirredonli 



PBiCABA, HjINFRBDOKIA, hulbb. 



jiKtBlii.wlll>anopnlallonof40,000,l».l«rBe»ml 
CapltMinu: ■nd"Tn'"Br"hl>'Lphop™^M!7ir"the 



iilTs vaultfc oryoa;, 



Kmt FdbkIh its ■ [ow trimi of Jrpf. ( 
nrippa, (onniied by Dlomed. 

t Puglln. being part of the old Roman prorlnc 
Apulia or naanii. Onc-haLf ol Iha modem pn 









■I tIoc«j are p 


"ihe drain 
. ever sine 









ichlch the oil. lomoui. orangei, capers. [:un». it., 
fn>m the aarnno dt-trict. aic exported. II con- 
Utn> ■ cathedral. ataiiTehei. and an old caitJe. Hera 

landed In 18B0. and rnarcbed acrois the penln^ola 

C\MM. ^-BrnM the l^lf la Vsni ^^1^ w 
Monle R. Anicelo, a rldg:e .>(llm->lone hllK 4.000 

whleh runt ont^iwfen Termoll and K«ii[re.ionUi| 



HOtJTB SB. 

NAPLES, OR N APOLI, 



'Swti.™ 



Wml En I Hole). Iho targeit Hotel In Naples, 

OoMl GoBtinautal. Well'iltnated, Qnal Par- 

mtf* (New Eabaokmuit). Bat Adii. 

BoMl to^ dai EMngm, oew Oial-clua betel. 



ini derEuiopei 3t. Peter-buTK et Cavot 
fnufca..— Mostly undarBnjIWi people. 
amllY FeD(liin,Pi1uia'CaA<».<;L.M0IA 



l.^WO^mv!'iw>> 



tview droiinja •■°'™'' "» "C 



:ncy)=ilr. Un.i diical=41 Jr.; 
]iiall>(friiiDCDi)ii) into bo Hud. 



Fiili'rnliiii. Pinlllppn. Lagrliiis CDrisli (lee that ll 



lui, and Co!' 



Zl««j.— 'llnrliiHir boit lo any nblp witbln lbs 
U'lr-' Sailing bgnla »l Fla, Lucln. Tho^ts, 



rhorra.-Snii Cari 
F.milo (0|K>n.). I>ci : 



renllnl (Dra, 



Brtldnt a-aiik Cmial and .1i«H«iii Omni. 

Chvrdt t^ £ttfftand KertKe al thA hamlminfl nair 
Kii|[1i>b <niiirch, III Strada S. Paiuiunlci nixned 
Hnrcta. I8IU. oil ■ ills mniilcil by Unrlbaldl, whcu 
Ulmntor.iindcoiiBrmeil 1n> t)ie Kbie orilnly. The 
llrst itiHic wu laid by tlic Duebcia of S. Arplno, 
in Kni[]i)h ladi-. There ire 8ciiltl9b. Italian, 
WaldciiHljin. Hdhodlit, Oeniuin, and Fiencb 



(■litmlil.—¥. Kernut. 

lj>-%o"'l^-coiitJKmi™i""(>rih«sat'lo"SlEMlng 
Mroogb llie pert, tme-lVitA .rs Knirllsn. 



Airaragta.~Ttendnto(Pmatoatm«\\x-s\n\KA 
•"J?^^'"'' 9i>iuter, letTlng by tbt mllrOBd for 

£Z^S!s^°'*^ •"'"•Ing't 4 In « eatrltge 



a Naplpj. A carriagB from Balenn 

rasBfw.— Betimi Tlcktt. from Ni 
•nUi r..r the Fanlcnlar Rallwar (t> 
nrrlHE* Icixlnglh* oflliw. M. Plaaii 
t 7 a.m. The Tlilt to Pompeii nuy I 

Nii^Ea Is noied far In Koldamltbt' 






d»nl(<lecllvltlc9ori 
ertniifilyore Mill di 



■ow .IrcBl), Qrudini, 






pralicd for the pnlecllan of itaacnigry iod climate. 
llciico tho 'ayiiig, " Vnll Napoli e pol in(irl"~Sea 
Napleaand t:.tn yoamaydle. It In tbt DOtt livrljr 

Since iu Italy. It dorivca Ita ot^n (roni lb> 
reok wtlleiuant called Aeapofti. or Kev Tami 
(OS dLitlnKulahod from n Palunolia. or Old Toirn, 
■tA'irim. founded B.C. 1IM4), otbonrtHi'arMflieM 
reallhy RoBiana fwbo cnlled 
ler) uiod ni a H^nlerlng^p!ace. 
c] I Into iiLglcct and nbacnrll y 
[111 •Di: I'liiniciKn century, nben Charlca of Aiijun 
flied the >eat of Eoicrnmeiil ben. dnlnnl the 
marihea (paludl) now travened by Ihe rail and. In 
1183. built CaMcI Kdovd (ut New Cinlle). noiir 
tbe Uule. The Cattel dell' Oni (or E|!e Caatlc), 

the clly. Iiad brcii EuiH a ccninry enrliur. The 
Toledo, Tblnja. Ae„ irere erected l>ytha Bpaiilsb 
VIcpruys hctn-em 16SS and IfiSG. HoM of IJlo old 

ccntorloi, Kversl cliurchea bclug on Ihe sllei of 
auckiil lemiilei. The oiil)' Roinnn roninlns are 
|>arl of an annoduct called Poiilf Xouj.- acme 






I on the north aide of Its Bof, 
>r Ecnily nloiilnir ajni^lllKati 



west, witli tbe Clilafa (quny), 

itretchei 1) mile id Poidllinw: and Ibat Id tbccaat, 
nblchlslhclarBesl, oldest, and moat bolk upon, 
itretchos pail «m artenal, palace, and mole. (« 



■orthwudi from Ihe PaEiiv. putlnglnio Ihis aillla 

kill). Ibc lUter cndlnv la Mlnila Niwth dl 
Capodlmnnt*; iheirhuls (arming ■ thoronKhfnre 

•tonyi hlgli, Bwarininft with liihuliltnnti"! whilo 
On uew Mkcu. went of tha Toledo, up to S. Klnio, 
tie., an ngvUr uid more open. Open ipuea htiio 
bmn fl«nd uid planlid, umI tluee the ^rcit 
eboleni epidmie ol 1881, Bne iwn nntit hivo 






After the beanlHul Bay »ndlljHUndii.Vemvlnt. 

tmoye. 1» the (Treat centre of attraction at Naplea; 
but the Apennlnti, from which an oullying branch 

de Ta1edo(l»4). on iha site o[ Die old forimcBtlons, 
it a wideatrnt of ihopft, well I^hted, and crowded 

air; many of the men dirty and with bare 1o)^: 
tbe woniEn eqaally dirty, bnt smartly docked out 
wlih EOloured kcrdileffc ear-rings, and chains round 

bnatle! At Sanli Lncla they sell thElIt and shell 
fish, oyBlers. and otfaor fiTilll H man. "SiDla 

^Thtne^Oo"t^a Jn^ifWD.'frt^'the Toledo 
to 3. Carlo, and Ihe Oalliria Priniipe di .Vapoli. 



Until lately, crowds of di-nusting beggars 
■'Qualclie CDsa, Signer, por I'aniore dl DIo," or 



fetidiostbsreit. Whaiyouglveanylhlnictotlnm. 
theysay, -Nlente dl ptiif iSomoref) Youmay 
be sure then yon gaTe them loo mnch. UyonglTa 
Jnit the right (ee. they will walk away, and Uho 
come and beg for it a^abi." 



It suddenly oc«nrred to me Ihat "tbe princlp 
classes In Vaples live In reillty preeijely In tl 



lanytkiiigtothhikalKnit. 



equally saltabic Ic 






jjoyj every moment In OobiB oiactly what ho llkoi 
great classes at Miplci. A middle class of trades 



Naples Is about « 



lopplled 



construction of which wai completed In 16^5. 
The principal reservoir Is situated near (he 

These works took the place of the oM Acqua delm 
Bala, which came from Vemvlui, and the 

Alalia dl Carmigtiano. conslmcted In ISM. 

At PIziofalcone. on the Clila^n. behind Caitel 
doir Ovo, li an acqua soUorea or sulphur spring, 

Beginning at Mergelllna. under Ihe Llll of Posj- 

«a''«1de.''p»Me"s" alon'g°th°e Chloja an"the° Villa 
Naslenale, with its Aquarliim and Public Qardcni, 
lined with trees and statuary: Ihe Vltlorla Hoteli 
Gfalatamone and titb flntobm %'qi^oiGK^'^'**^ 



ItojalPxlu* udCuulNmno; IhtenUHubont 

wHbiliLlKMbanHuulMiiLn; IbsBmallHartioar. : 



r, ticSag Cutil N 



IMT, (roni IichUnnuid IntaprLi" «boHt » IDllen; 
Suits LuclD. Bai^iiiill. ind rniioDll in cspiblE 
of being msde goiia balblng pJtca. 

NsplH hju b«n oflcn deocrlbed-bcre If one , 
more deicrlplhni trom Count Arrivabent. "The I 



of tha Kcnery !■ WaeU iHlntij tbrcmgh a InniljioDB 
iDlrt. Tie bnn' ntLrotnmmbig:- ihtBolngio Biid 
fro of tSe Athenncn haitcning to tbe beaoh ot 
ChUK wliiiro li* the bMt»-tlis buitlc of w.tct- ' 
clHTl«■^ of Isimronl, of women hnrrying toward) I 
tbefiulll di mare market at Bants Lncla~ln ifaon 

Dobudy la able to undenitnnd i^tcept themflclTes — 
all this maken tbe NeapoLktan morning tctt fttrlk- 
tne lo tho itranger. At the tolling of tike belli 

Monk ImyVj hli cmvenl, to^Sl^fhe offeStaes of 
tbe people, whioh he will iharc witb the poor next 
Trlifay. He It onvof the earlleit peraoni to appear 
Intbettreeu. The working populsllon ol Poiiuoll 
and Pottlcl ar« (aat pouring Into the long and 
blight Toledo, or directing their elepa toward) tbe 
dnirchei, whence after h»lng heard man and re- 
work. Heuwhlte. the glr^ ot Rain, Fortlcl. and 
other nelghbonrlngvlllagea are o&erlng tbelr frull 
and flower) In tbe market." 

The Port 0/ Napla Inclodet a mercantile har- 
a ih^rt Mule, or Molo riccnlo. on the nanh?and a 

" **f Plcct^ IB th* Dogatto, with 



Coflrf JTvoiv, facing the l4rgo del Ca£tello, wa) 
begun 1^83, b7 Olovannl ila Flu. and reconsimcled 

It l> entered b; a triumphal Arch of Al- 
pbonu 1., balll U7D, bj Ololiaiio da Hajano, and 
adorned with ba)-relief>. •laluea.uid bronw gales. 
Tbe lacade of the chnrch of Bta. Barbara is by 

Catui deir Ow, OB a low rock projecting from the 
an oral-thaped bnildlng, fognded IIM, rebuilt In 

rauel Saaf a/mo. on a eomplmon) height, 8T0 
Carthuian Connrnt of sTM^lno (now a Haunm), 

clndei ■ Konnan tower, boil* by Eohert the Wine, 

The King') Palace, •Palaaa BMott, or La Btsjia, 

the old palace begun by the Viceroy, Pedro do 
Toledo; and the new bnlfdlngi, designed by Fon- 



1 In Italy, rebnilt by NIccoltoi, 



Closf 



;lhigh, 1 



Oalleria ii Umberto is oppoflte the theatre. 

Facln^the Palace Is a colonnaded creicent, and 
the domed Chntch of a. Francem dl Parto, built 

The chief Clpfn PlaraO'rghl and plane), witb 

Larao dd Palata. or maiia iW PIMhUii, laces 

handKime Unnlcip^. On the other side ii the 
Pdlasn del HInlsterl and Police OOle*. Statue 



fioate 35.] 



Nl.PLK8^CHUBCH£S. 



239 



JHaua di Monte (Hiwto bag a Itrge •tatue of 
Charles II. 

Largo del Mercatdlo ; now Piatxa Dante^ at the 
end of the Toledo, is ornamented with a statue of 
Dante. Here is the Liceo Ginnasiale, ornamented 
with twenty-six statues. 

Fiaeza del MerceUo, or the great market, near the 
Carmine Church ; the scene of the insurrection of 
Masaniello, and of the resistance to the French 
in 1799. 

Lango di Vittoria^ on the Chiaja, and close by, 
the Piazza dei Martiri with a column (1864) to the 
heroes of the revol utions. 

CHURCHES. 

*CkUhedral of 8. Gennaro, or St. Januarius, in 
Strada de' Tribunal!, faced by a column and statue 
of the saint. A large and handsome church, 
including the old cathedral, on the site of two 
ancient temples, founded by Charles of Anjou, 
built by Masuccio, a nntiye architect of the thir- 
teenth century, and since much altered and mo- 
dernised. The front dates from 1407. Oyer the 
principal doors are tombs of Charles of Anjou, and 
Charles Martel, of Hungary, and his wife. The 
front is of Eg^yptian basalt, on a pedestal of por- 
phyry. In the vault are the apostles, patron saints, 
A;c., by Santafede, Forti, Giordano, and Solimena. 
The pillars are from the old temples. The high 
altar was finished 1744, over the body of the patron 
saint. Under the tribune is the Confessional, 
covered with marble work, by T. Malvito, 1500. 

In the chapels are the following: — M. di Siena's 
Unbelief of St. Thomas. Giovanni da Nola's bas- 
relief of an Entombment. Tomb of Innocent XII. 
Tomb of Andrea of Hungary, who was killed at 
Aversa, as the inscription states, by the guilty 
connivance of his wife, Giovanna (or Joan) I. 
Tomb of Innocent IV., by P. Stefani. Tomb of 
Cardinal Carracciolo, in the family chapel. Minu- 
toli Chapel, by Masuccio. Old painting of the Pas- 
sion, by T. Stefapi, the founder of the Neapolitan 
School (1230-1310). S. de* Buoni*8 Madonna; an 
early work, in the Santa Restituta Chapel, which 
was the old cathedral, dating from the seventh 
century. It includes the former Baptistery of St. 
Giovanni in Fonte, and an early mosaic. Old 
mosaics and bas-reliefs in the Santa Maria del 
Principlo Chapel. 

Opposite the Restituta Chapel is the Tesoro, or 

*Chapel of S. Gennaro^ the patron saint, where 
the miracle of the liquefaction of his blood is suc- 
cessfully performed three times a year, viz., first 
Saturday in May, 19th September, and 16th Decem- 
ber. Though a chemist is always sent in good 
time beforehand, to make sure of the '■'■ correctness 
of the blood," the miracle fails sometimes, when 
obstinate heretics are i»«sent. This richly deco- 
rated building was dedicated after the plague of 
1526, and finished from Grimaldi's designs, at a 
cost of a million ducats. It contains seven al.ars, 
forty-two pillars of brocatello, and nineteen bronze 
statues, with some good painthigs by Spagnoletto, 
Domeoichino, Lanfiraneo, Ac. ; a silver bust of the 
Mint, two diamond croMoi 'i the gift of Joieph 



Bonaparte), and other splendid offerings. When 
Victor Emmanuel attended service at the cathedral 
during his visit in May, 1863, the archbishop and 
canons absented themselves ; for which the latter 
were tried and condemned to lose a year's income. 

77ie Archbishop's Palace, near this, was rebuilt 
1647, and has some frescoes, by Lanfranco. 

There are about 250 Churches in Naples, besides 
chapels and convents ; few of which deserve notice 
as architectural works, while they are more re- 
markable for the richness than the good taste of 
their decorations. 

3. Agnello Maggiore, or S. Aniello a Capo Napoli^ 
contains M. da Nola's statue of Santa Doroteai and 
Solimena's Madonna. 

8. Angela a Mlo, built 1385. Donat olio's tomb 
of Cardinal Brancacci (1427), the founder. The 
church has T. Stef ani's St. Michael and St. Andrew. 

L'Annumiata, or 'Nunziata, rebuilt, 1782, by Van- 
vitelli, is one of his best, and annexed to the Found- 
ling and Magdalen Hospitals. M. da Nola's wood 
carvings ; and Tomb of Queen Joanna 11. 

j8. Brigida. — Frescoes by Giordano, who is buried 
here. 

8. Caterina a Formdlo, close to the Porta Capuana, 
is a domed church, and dates from the early part of 
the 16th century. 

'*8anta Chiara (St. Clair), or the second cathe- 
dral, in Strada Trinit2^ begun, 1310, by Robert the 
Wise ; Gothic, and without aisles. It has a fine 
campanile of three storeys. Of the paintings by 
Giotto, all have been whitewashed over, except a 
Madonna. There aft several Norman, and other 
monuments, as Masuccio's tomb of Robert of 
Anjou (1350), where he figures as a monk as 
well as a king. Tombs of Charles Duke of 
Calabria; his son; Joanna I., daughter of Charles, 
Maria, hei' sister; and of her two children. Tomb 
of R. Capanno, a Moorish slave, who became Great 
Seneschal of Naples, and was concerned in the 
murder of Andrea of Hungary, husband of Joanna 
I. Tomb of a Duke of Rhodes, under an ancient 
sarcophagus, in S. Felice Chapel; with a Cruci- 
fixion, by Lanfranco. Curious fresco, by Simone, 
in the refectory, with portraits. 

*8. Domenico Maggiore, in Piazza S. Domenico 
(with an obelisk to St. Dominic), a Gothic church, 
bCKun, 1289, by Masuccio Prime, annexed to the 
convent of which St. Thomas Aquinas was a brother 
(1272). They show his cell, chair, <fcc. The church 
contains 30 chapels, with many curious wall paint- 
ings, of different periods, and Anjou tombs. Here 
are A. Franco's Madonna, in the Brancacci Chapel ; 
tomb of Charles II.'s two sons, in Santa Maria 
della Neve Chapel; M. da Siena's Baptism of 
Christ, in the Battistero Chapel ; Two Saints, by 
Lanfranco, in the Rocella Chapel; Christ at the 
Pillar, by Caravaggio, in the Franchl Chapel; 
Giordano's St. Joseph. Agnello del Fiore's tomb of 
Cardinal Carafa, in the Crocifisso Chapel, with the 
Crucifix which ^pobe to St. Thomas Aquinas; a 
Descent from the Cross, by Zingaro ; and Agnelo 
Aniello del Fiore's tombs of CaMhials Cdtrafa and 
BncchianlcQ. M.««sM5fc\a'^ H.'SitJ^ <^ "^n.-'Cc^^ 



240 



fifiADdHAw's If Att< 



[Section 3i 



, Aquinas (1845), In St. Thomas's Chapel; with 
- Simono's Madonna and Giordano's Virgin. M. 
'• da Siena's Circumcision. Frescoes by Solimena 
. and Sabbatani, in the Sacristy; with some in- 
' teresting tombs of members of the House of 
Aragon, and of the Marquis of Pcscara (who 
married Vittoria Colonna) in a monk's dress. 

•<S. Fiiippo Neri, or Oerolomini^ in Strada dei 
Tribunali, founded 1592, is one of the handsomest 
In the city, and is almost overladen with orna- 
mental sculpture. Over the marble font, by 
Lazzari and Fuga, is Giordano's fresco of Christ 
Driving out the Money Changers. The Chapel of 
S. Filippo is by Lazzari, and has a painted cupola 
by Solimena. In the church and sacristy are 
paintings by Pomcrancio, Santaf cdc, Guido (Flight 
Into Egypt, and St. Francis d' Assist), Giordano, 
Corcnzio, Sabbatinl (Nativity), F. Zucchero, Tin- 
toretto, Bassano, Giovane, Domenichino, Ac. ; and 
the tomb of Vico. 

*S. Francesco di Paolo, facing the Royal Palace, 
founded by Ferdinand I., and begun, 1816, by 
Bianchi; an imitation of the Pantheon, with a 
dome, and a vestibule of ten Ionic columns, from 
which an arcaded crescent of forty-four colunms 
spreads out on both sides. In front are equestrian 
statues of Charles III. and Ferdinand I. The 
gallery over the high altar is for the use of the 
royal family. The high altar was brought from 
the Church of SS. Apostoli. Thp statues and 
pictures are all modem. 

S. Gennaro dei Poveri is ann^ed to the hospice of 
that name, near Capodimonte and the Catacombs. 
Apply to the porter. 

*Qesii NuorOy in Piazza Trlnitk Maggiore, near 
Santa Chiara, has a plain front, but Is richly orna- 
mented within. A tall column faces it, erected in 
1747. It belonged to the Jesuits, and was built 
1584; but the cupola, with Lanfranco's Glory of 
Paradise, was ruined by the earthquake of 1688, 
except the four evangelists at the comers. Here 
is Solimona's large fresco of Hellodorus Driven out 
of the Temple, and some others, done when he was 
only eighteen. Fansaga's Chapel of St. Ignatius, 
and his statues of David and Jeremiah; Bcmar- 
dhio's St. Francis Xavier; and paintUigs by Gior- 
dano and Guercino. 

8. Oiacomo degli SpagnuoH contains Giovanni da 
Nola's fine tomb of Pedro de Toledo, the Spanish 
Viceroy, who founded the church, 1540. 

8. Giovanni a Carbonara, in Strada Carbonara, 
by Masuccio Secondo. 1344, and annexed to a con- 
vent. It contains A. Ciccione's tomb of King Ladls- 
laus of Anjou, behind the high altar, and his tomb 
of Joanna II.'s favourite, Ser G. Caracciolo, in a 
Gothic chapel; with Bisuccio's wall ptiintings of 
the history of Joanna; the Hos8i Chapel, with its 
carvings of the sixteenth centurj'; and Vasari's 
paintings in the Sacristy. The MSS. collected by 
Parrahasius and Cardinal Seripandl, and placed 
Jrero. were given away (says Valery) by the monks 
J^y tJie Jatst century, to gome German scholars, to 
j« p» tAemseJrea the bother ot being takeA questions 



8. Giovanni Maggioi*e, ohe of the oldest churches 
in Naples, on the site of a Temple to Antinous, built 
thirteenth century, by Masuccio, and rebuilt 168fi, 
by Lazzari. It is close to the unfinished Church of 
8. Giovanni de* Pappdeoda, which has some Gothio 
work at the door. 

Vlncoronata, in Strada Medina, founded by 
Joanna I. about 1850, has in the vault of the choli* 
eight frescoes of the Seven Sacraments, and the 
Triumph of Religion, supposed to be by Giotto; 
but it appears that his only work at Naples was 
the Chapel of Castel Nuovo, done 1327 (nine years 
before his death) for King Robert, which has been 
destroyed, and the frescoes In S. Chiara. 

8. Lorenzo Maggiore, near Strada de' Tribunal!, 
on the site of the Town Hall. Foimded by Charles 
of Anjou, in the thirteenth century, with a front of 
much later date. It contains Zingaro's St. Francis ; 
Simone's St. Anthony and the Angels; Masnccio's 
Tomb of King Charles (1847), and Catherine of 
Austria; with some others. 

*8anta Maria del Carmine, in Largo del Mercato, 
has a tall campanile, and contains the tombs of 
Frederick of Baden and Conradin, cousins, who 
were beheaded by Charles of Anjou, in the Market- 
place facing the church: the scene of one of the 
episodes of Masaniello's insurrection against the 
oppressive Spanish Viceroy, 1647. 

Masaniello was a fisherman, whose real name was 
Tommasso Anlcllo. and who begun the Insurrection 
by crying out "No Taxes!" The people sided 
with him; he was created Duke of St. George, but 
after a rule of nine days he became insane, and 
was shot In the conv^it. He is buried in this 
church. The taxes, or gabellas, were levied upon 
everything that was eaten, drunk, or worn; and to 
make matters worse, they were all farmed out. 

8anta Maria del Gesii, Strada Porta dl S. Gen- 
naro, has paintings by Giordano, Solimena, and 
Vasarl. 

8anta Maria delle Grazie, Largo Capo Napoli, 
built 1500. It has Sabbatlnl's Madonna and Saints, 
and bas-reliefs by Morllano and Santa Croce. 

8anta Maria la Nuova, built, 126S, by G. da. 
Pisn, rebuilt 1796, contains paintings by Santaf ede, 
Stef an 1, Giordano, Ac; and tombs of Lautrcc and 
Navarro, two French leaders, erected by the 
nephew of Gonsalvo da Cordova, the Spanish 
General, the monuments being attributed to G. da 
Nola. The dome is embellished with frescoes by 
Corenzio of four great Franciscan doctors. 

8anta Maria del Parto, at Mergalllna, near 
Virgil's Tomb, on the site of the Villa of Sanna- 
zaro, the poet, who wrote "Dc Partu Vlrglnis;'* 
and whose mausoleum here is the work of Santa 
Croce and Montorsoli. It has a bas-relief of 
Neptune, to show that the poet was the inventor 
of piscatory eclogues. The statues of Apollo and 
Minerva are called "David" and "Judith." 

8anta Maria delta Pieta de' Sangri, or 8ansetero^ 
rebuilt, 1618, by the Patriarch Sangro. It contains 
the tombs of his family, with the allegorical statues 
(by Bemlnl, Ac.) of Vice Convicted and Modesty. 

Santa ilario di PiedigroMa^ near the Orotta dl 



BouM 35.] 
Foalllppo, Inajn-cnt 
•8. Kftrtlno. I 



(Adorntlon of the Shpphrr^i 



-CHUSCHEB, UUSEL-M. 
SOBla Tfri^a. In 1 



onnola It palntt^ li; 
U'ArpIno and Ould 



dowcdw 



^ by Spsgnolciio. wbMBTsklinr 



eriterdia. Strsdi do Trlhunall. an 
bnllt 160S. by PIcchUttl. It fau 
tTBitglo and ijlordano, and la tn- 
b Ffli-BuiiitliiiF thit poor nn<l nwdy- 
irch hy Gleclone. 





WoOltvo 


lansConvrr 


(now 


ed by tbo mun 


ipnlUy a>a 




Com- 


rcc. Ao.X in "U 


ch Tamo fo 




, and 


rote part of his 




me." TUB 


arden 






nlo a mark 


t. In 


e cburch are li 




atalns by 




liaao. Roiuclllno 


Hctltano, Santa Croce, 


Mu- 


?1. 4i,. with U 


Mb) of Hari 


a of Aragon. the 


MO, LlBuorl, u> 




«; and a 


palnt 


R of fho AKenK 


on. bv 8 


Bnonl, a 




Itan of ttao flfleentb ccntiuT 






•S.P<«78jft(wf0 


r,Si™lBd. 


Trlhunall. 


olmilt 



wrthqnnlio, on ihe tin 
by StanzionI and''carenilo; and In Iho tCrl-ty 






oloti- of M unit 
S. Uarcellluo. clone 

nakc. It Miitalns 



diet, by Zingaro. which are full of yatiely, and 

The refectory^ as a carlooa pninlhiiibyCoraiilo 
ol the HIraole of tlio Loaves, It conlalnj Hi 

of the Anbta archLveB are deposited. 

^infa Ttma, fitrada Capodimoate. belongi li 
til* CarmdlltM, ud hiu pidntlnga by Gloiduio 
Btanalonl, !■-—'-■- •- 



It dtifii Stadl. ronncrty ll 



B FarucHB faoilly, wllh > 
ucled by O. Pon'lana, ai 



1., CniDs; Pe,, PsMnm 



following-;— 'Ah' 
Room; Chinese 






1 draiirna] wllh a 



omlUie. Red, yellon, 



'MlG'ln4"*'alnHn'*i 



decidedly ODTB, 
'Ths°|inlfi,g„„ ^ 



\ AUot iiftai3HMflx*\s»H'M«K-'^***»'=*« 



242 



BBADSUAW S ITALY. 



[Section 3. 



of Iphigcnia; Old Woman selling Caged Gnpids to 
Young Girls; The Thirteen Dancers; Ariadne 
Deserted; Education of Achilles; Telephus nursed 
by the Hind; Achilles giving up Briseis, one 
of the best examples of ancient painting in the 
tiwnochvome style; Medea meditating the murder 
of her Children; Thcsusand the Minotaur; Scipio 
and Sjphonisba; Dyers at their Trade in the 
Fullonica; Achilles taught by Chiron; Hercules 
and his infant Son. 

Here was, before it was moved to the museum 
at Pompeii, where it is now to be seen, one of t^e 
most striking sights in the collection, viz., the 
group of bodies found at Pompeii in September, 
1853; and preserved exactly as they were found, 
after the lapse of eighteen centuries, by Cav. 
Fiorclli's ingenious process of pouring liquid 
plaster into the mould under which they were 
buried. "As soon as the plaster was hardened, 
the mould was lifted with the greatest precau- 
tions, and on the hardened ashes and lava being 
removed four corpses appeared. They are not 
statues, but human bodies moulded by Vesuvius, 
and preserved from decay by an envelope of 
lava which reproduces the clothes, the flesh, nay 
almost even the appearance of life. The bones 
protrude here and there where the molten liquid 
did not completely cover the limbs. The Egyptian 
mummies are naked, black, hideous; but the 
exhumed Pompeians are human beings in tlie act 
of dying. One is a woman, near whom were 
fomid ninety-one silver coins, two silver vases, 
0omc keys, and a few jewels. She was fiying, 
carrying her most valuable commodities with her, 
when she fell in the little narrow street. She may 
be seen lying on her left side. Her head dress, the 
tissue of her clothes, and two silver rings on her 
finger, can be easily detected. One of the hands 
is broken, and the bones are exposed to view; the 
left arm is raised and writhing, the hand con- 
vulsively shut; the nails appear to have entered 
the flesh. The whole body appears swollen and 
drawn together ; the legs alone— the rounded and 
delicate outline of which has not suffered — are 
stretched out. Her attitude is that of agony, not 
death. Behind her a woman and a young girl 
had fallen. The former, the mother possibly, has 
on her finger a single iron ring. Her left leg, 
raised and bent, denotes that she also struggl^ 
and suffered. Near her reclines the young girl — 
almost a child. The tissue of her dress is seen with 
wonderful distinctness— the sleeves coming down 
to the wrist, and the embroidery of her shoes. 
She had, through fear probably, lifted her dress 
over her head. She fell with her face to the 
ground. One of her hands is half open, as though 
Mhc had used it to keep her veil over her face. The 
bones of her fingers protrude through the lava. 
She appears to have died easily. The fourth body 
Jif that of a large man stretched on his back; the 
arwf/ and leg's show no Hiipia of struggling; his 
^/ot/ios sire very distinctly marked; the braccas 

TSal^'L^t^'fuPV"^^ ^"^^^ sMdaU, the soles 
r^a^d n-fth thick DMih; on one iifiger 4n Iron 



ring ; a few teeth arc broken ; his eyes and hair 
are obliterated, but his thick moustache is clearly 
apparent, and it is impossible not to be struck 
with the martial and resolute appearance of his 
featm-es." 

Mosaics (Mosaici).— Actors Rehearsing; Comic 
Scene, by Discoridesof Samos, from Cicero's Villa ; 
Pavement, from Lucera; "Cave Canem," a 
mosaic from the House of the Tragic Poet at 
Pompeii; mosaics from the House of the Fuuu, 
also at Pompeii. 

Egyptian Antiquities (Collezionc Egiziana), from 
Pompeii and the Bo'rghese and Borgia galleries ; 
consisting of busts, articles of dress, bronzes, 
mummies, bas-reliefs, gods, animals, &c. 

The rearrangement of the very fine collection 
of marble statue-, busts, and reliefs was completed 
in 18"J9, and they now occupy the greater part of 
the western half of the gromid-floor. The finest 
are in the Portico dei Capolarori (of the master- 
pieces), the noith corridor on the left of the 
central vestibule. Here are -the Venus Victrix, 
from Capua, probably copied from a Greek 
original; Orestes and Electra; Homer, the 
finest bust extant of the poet; Venus Callipyge; 
Famese and Juno; Harmodius and Arlstogeitou ; 
JBschines ; Agrippina mourning for the death of 
Germanicus. 

Portico dei Balhi, so called from statues of this, 
the most noble family of Herculaneum. This con- 
tains equestrian statues of Marcus Nonius Balbus, 
and his son of the same name, praetor and pro- 
consul. Another statue of M. N. Balbus, the 
father, and one of his wife. A series of Roman 
portrait busts, and another of Greek busts; the 
identification of many of these is doubt 'ul. 

Portico degli Imperatori, statues and busts, the 
former often imperfect, as the heads are only 
plaster, and the identification is scarcely possible. 
An exception is probably the colossal bust of Cesar. 

This is followed by seven rooms, the first two 
containing statues and busts of the Gods, none of 
any great excellence. In the third are Ganymede 
and the Eagle; Pan teaching a Nymph the flute; 
Winged Cupid; ^sculapius; Nymph Bathing. 
In the fourth, Amazon falling from her Horse; 
Hercules and Omphale; Statues of Hercules; 
Muse 4 from Herculaneum and Rome. 

The fifth room is known as the Hall of Flora, 
from a colossal statne, known as the Famese Flora, 
which may as well have been that of some other 
goddess, and came from the Thermae of Caracaiia. 
Here also is a mosaic from the House of the Faun, 
at Pompeii, representing the Battle of Issns, an 
interesting composition. 

The sixth and seventh rooms contain Reliefs of 
vases, fountain figures. In the centre of the 
former there is a beautiful rase with Mercury and 
the young Bacchus, surrounded by Bacchanals, 
[n the other room are Orpheus, Eorydlce, and 
Hermes, V\\ tYi« VQicm«\ r^ous; Apollo and the 
Graces (?) ; ^ive vsl^^a «u<1 «Nra»\^K|\. 



lOSi (EpiBTKHcl).- 
ons, in eighl cIbmm- 



Osciin. uid Funic. A Oal 
colltctlon at Rome. Tbc ' 



Bust of Sclplo 
]i]i«ll: Tipsy Faon 



l> (portrsili); Apol1o{ Mei 



iTerre-Cofff)- — About fl^OOO Bpccliii<^ii« 

*lue9.°bu^relli!r>. ic. 

On <he npper floor (Prima plana 
eonUlning Ihs (olluwiii colleclioua:- 

OUICTB VROK POHmtT (Food. AC, 



lo divide Inlo eight; marked M 
'APHna RooM.-Abont I.WW I 



t 4.U00 tpeelavens. ihuiviDK bow gr 
•mploTed By the Ronmni tor tsmi, ... , 
'AfM^ bottim, Jtc^ dtbw jiJoln or coloojed, 



hora, found at Ponipcll. in 183T-: also- gla» 
'Indowi rmm the houie of Dlomeilce. 

RiiKKVED Room (OggrlH ltaa-rali).-~1i<iit 
t Pampeil. Herculuneuiii. Ac Fa-rnnailg. 

CoiHi flfeaagUr). A very Jttge and vnlnabls 
oILcctlon in UTe rooms. Gatnloguei over llu 



he Pan I 


aula. 


Itconta 


napatt ol 


the 


pfluce oi 


Canlntf. 


















Platll Bix 


ntO 


— Ahont 


8.000 specimen 








e fnclnde 






; bala 


cw, weiBi 


8. 




anii«! 1 




e weights in marked 


■E 


e^fhin 






yonshal 








IWieiS 












lolloue « 


liClM 


llcKi;ti 


(or the the 


atre 


aurghiil 



Cabinet or Gkub. Cahcob, Bncaa. Ac 
(Ogffilli /'rrffeuf).— Ahove 2.IIVI apcclmciia in pre- 
clous alone^ Rold and pHver ornaincnl", lulaglloi. 
aaala, ancieiic and modern. Tlie Taizn Fam«a 
is a InrBC onyi veiMl, covered ■Bilh bas-tellefa. 
anil found in Ihe Villa Adtlmia. Among the 
many hundred rings (ta>a llurgoii. in hla Itlttrt 
fivm /tom«) which liave licen funnd at Pompeii, 

with tlie Fl'h, and three with Ihe Bird; 



If crthed In Oreck, Elpit. "Hope;" another haa ( 
II Ihhie." Another, [ho motto "Rememher,"'wltli 



PiriuBE 0*LLFHT,— Arranged infonrtecn rooma, 
vidcd Into two scctionn on oppoaito. ides. The 
•at notion. conUlning eight raoma, one of whiuh 
chiefly devoted lo engrailngs, has the ti»t 
dure), all Italian (oxcepllng Neapolitan); lb* 
iier secllon (Neapoillan, German, Floinlih, and 



s iijraiph Egerl*. Cor- 



In. hunband at Uarjr. SpamiDlcUD— 8t, 
I Kouie-lhytlieLa'tTruignet. l>iiin«nlchlno 
-"■- '— ' ^lugaru— VlfBin »nd ChlU. 



Ansel. Zliiesm—Vimln 
thSalnis: iho VintlniH o 



Leo X.. with 
CiL Farinl 



li Chrial. Tbcce Marys, Ac, 



;t hy Rsphaol, M. Angf lo, 



;3.y. 



t, 14S3. 8t Augrunlne' 



07. £gop, wiib 
i. ore:— tho 1(11 



Hnseo ClVlCO, or «««.> F{la„gifH. In tl 



HuseodiOapciillmonle.Mcuiiiier "pai: 

CMIVEBaiTT, COLLEGES, Ac. 



I't^? a''l^"lull 0.1. 
us; cnblnelB oT «ev«i 

wUhtt 



HISf.n 



a Library > 
af the liliiH 



ipagandalsdeilpiei 



The ftoyol Sanett. Aradfr 

The CTiinffc College i 
for the iralnlnff of Chiiitwa youtu^ wpu 
thek t native coondyiuinlBaloitarlefl. It hi 
Jn 1128. hy Father M. Ripa. and liaa a mu 

r/re ^KoUivi of the city, at tho 
Maanxtojy, dote to B. Severino, are In foi 



^^uariuiB an<l Zoulonlcal St. lion, at Villa 
tJMZlonnie, on tiie wa. Tlila !■ one of the best and 
tDoal lnl«cailnj{ In Bun.;™. Admlislm. V lira ! lu 
Jnly and Augg>t. 1 lira. Open dully Oaod 
r^tnloinies. AviiltlolhleBhouldbynDmeaDiba 
fitted. 

MUtlani Collrge, Founded by Charlu III., In 

Annunilatella Chnieh. baHt by Sanfellce. A 
t:.ry Scliwil form, part g[ the eitabllehnient. 
TopogwphlcaKQr Mliitnry Snrveyj.OfBce la 
IS old Palaim Carafa, built IM2. 



Tol.-do. l«iriu> by Medrano In ITS*, (or Charl« 
III., ud no) fliTlshcd till alter 1834. It li a pliln 
ir""Mcn»'' "?"'"'|!*' '" '"" "oreye; >iirToiinded 
Reale admin alHi to thii. Oiion dally, 10 tn 4. 



don.), 1 11- a. 



Pa/aiai dti Ifiaiilrri. in riaiia del Muiilciplo li 
ho toat of the Pollee Offlee, Ae. 

Palizia dclla Uunicipalila. nr (illy Offloea, In 
ho Old llenedlotltie Con»enl of Monte Oli.cto. 



/Woim Aivri. In a elreot off th. 
Iho head-qnanen or Qnrtbaldl In IW 
VanviieUi. 17^. Palnri.ige hy Tli 

tapofltry de^l^iicd by l^tljin. 

fflore. By VnniltcUl. 1770. 

Palata Cmna. rebnill by Prlnoi 
tboaeat of the lluieo CI-leo(Ke abi 

the Marine Hospital ,.n the FoBlllpo ilc 

Palata FimiU, Btradn Uedina. di 
VanvllBlll. haa a jilctute gallery, vlill 



Satrlano, b 



Polauo Siriqnano. oetner of Piaiia dil llnni- 



Route 35.] 



KA:^LES— PALACES, J^TC. 



245 



Palazzo Santatiffehf Strada S. Biagio de* Libraj. 
Built by Masuccio ; rebuilt 1460 ; now a Monte di 
Piet&. It« collection of portraits, vases, cameos, 
bronzes, coins, &c., is now nt the museum. 

Palazzo Calabritto, built by Vanvitelli, in Piazza 
de' Martiri, was formerly the scat of the British 
Consulate. 

The best points of view in the environs are 
occupied by 

Villas, suri'ounded by gardens, among which 
the most noticeable are — 

Villa OallOy on the west side of Capodimonte, near 
the Royal Palace. Built 1809, by Nicolini, for the 
Duke de Gallo, who sold it to the Queen Mother, 
Isabella. 1831. It is one of the largest about Naples. 

On the Posilipo and Vomero Hills are Villas 
Roccaromana, Rocca Matilda^ and MinutoH^ &c. 
The Villas Belletieri, Belvedere, Kegina, and Ricci- 
ardi are on the Vomero. Villa Patrizi is on the 
Collina di Chiaja. VUla Santangelo, near the west 
side of Vesuvius, is built in the style of the houses 
found at Pompeii, and, like the others, commands 
a fine view over the bay. 

At Arenella, in the suburbs, Salvator Rosa was 
bom, 1615, in a house marked by a slab. 

Law Courts, or Palazzo de' Trihunali, are in the 
Castello Capuano, or Viearia, near Porta Capuana; 
an ancient and massive pile, begun by Master 
Buono for William I., and finished by Frederic II. 
It was the court of the Princes of Anjou and Ara- 
gon till the Tribunals and Prison were settled here, 
in 1640. These couii;s of justice are worth visiting 
when the judges are sitting. There is an old 
prison underneath the criminal court. 

Prefettura. — Here political prisoners were shut 
up with the worst wretches, in 1849, and half- 
gnawed by rats and vermin before they were 
moved elsewhere. Another prison was at Santa 
Maria Apparente, a convent, on a beautiful height, 
with a fine view of the bay. In No. 1 cell Poerio 
was confined. In No. 8 is an inscription to the 
effect that thejwrriter was " buried alive for months 
in this prison." Another cell is a mere box, in 
which a priest was confined more than a year. 
He cou d not stand up, and could not use his legs 
for a month after his release; his only crime bfing 
that he was a relative to Milano, who attempted 
Ferdinand II.'s Ufe. 

HOSPITALS AND BENEVOLENT INSTITU- 

.TIONS. 

The Casa degli Incurabili, or Hospital of Incura- 
bles, in Strada Incurabili; the chief infirmary, 
founded. 1 521, by Francesca Longo. It will contain 
3,000 patients, and is attended by the Sisters of 
Charity from the Coeli Convent adjoining. Its 
Church of Santa Maria del Popolo contains some 

Saintings and ex-voto gifts. There is room for 
,000 poor, and the income amounted to 300,000 
dncats; but under the Bourbons two-thirds were 
Swallowed up by the ofiicials, or otherwise diverted. 
A MeduxhChirurgico College is attached to the 
Hospital. 



Albergo de' Poveri, or Reckuorio (Workhouse), In 
Strada Foria, under Capodimonte, at the entrance 
of the city, is the largest in Naples, being about 460 
yards long, and 160 broad. In three vast courts. It 
has an Asylum and House of Industry for 2.000 poor 
of both sexes; founded by Charles III., in 1751, and 
built by Fuga. The Botanical Gardens sui-round 
one end of it. 

The Foundling Hospital, or Casa dei Trovatelll, 
is annexed to the Annunziata Church. About 
2,000 children left here, every year, are called the 
"Children of the Madonna." When the girls are 
marriageable they receive portions. 

S. Gennarp de' Poveri, an asylum for infirm and 
poor, under Capodimonte, at the ^itrance of the 
Catacombs. 

The Deaf and Dumb Institution (Sordi-MuH), 
founded, 1786, by Ferdinand I., is annexed to the 
great Albergo de' Poveri, just mentioned. A Ceua 
dei Pazzi, or Lunatic Asylum, is established at 
Aversa. 

The Blind Hospital {de' Ciechi) was founded 1818, 
by Ferdinand I., in a building belonging to the 
Jesuits, in the Chiaja. 

International Hospital, in Via Tasso, supported 
by voluntary contributions. 

There are several Monti diPieta, half pawnshops 
and half banks, established for assisting the poor, 
the oldest of which dates from 1605. 

77ie Conservatorio di Musica was founded 

1537, by G. Tappa, and has a good library, including 
the works of Paesiello and others. This school has 
produced along line of singers from Pergolese down 
to Lablache. 

THEATRES. 

San Carlo. See the Royal Palace, page 238. Six 
rows of boxes. Opera and ballet only. 

Fondo Theatre, in Piazza del Municipio, built " 
1788. For operas in summer; dialect plays, &c. 
There are five rows of boxes. 

Fiorentini Theatre, near the church of that name. 
The oldest theatre in Naples, built by the Spaniai-ds. 
Tragedy, comedy, Ac. Five rows of boxes. 

Ntiow Theatre, in Vico del Teatro Nuovo. Comic 
opera. Five rows of boxes. 

S. Carlino Theatre, Piazza del Porto ; open for 
Pulcinella or Pmich. His real birth-place is said to 
be at S. Elpidios, the ancient Atella, on the Capua 
road, a few miles out of Naples. Here he was 
played in his original dialect. 

Fenice Theatre, Piazza del Municipio. Comic 
operas and mclodi'amas in the Neapolitan dialect. 

S. Nazaro Theatre^ Strada di Chiaja. Comedy, 
and drama. 

The Botanical Oardens, close to the r^cV^ 

sario, were laid out \sv \SASk. ^'^^asv ^^iSCc? ., ^s*.s«sN. 



nilni at the I^mlt Sono, an iqned 



OEUBTBKIES, fto. 

po Saalo Vetrhla, where hnnpllnl | 



f. Cell, tbe lehuld 



orot tlio "PunnlU 




:ur«," 


r»ill«.lbBUdym«ih 








«pqdlm 


ilB tre 


agh B. OamMil dc' I'o 


.erl Cw 




eiMudiD Ihan thM 


■t Bai 


»,Bnd 




They 





■m Irnco of early fnsrors uu| pnlntingi, ChrMlmi 

At the HiirK>ltina md of the ClilijB li 
Virgll'aTonib,OYCt-ihe«i(rance(.fthrCrott.dl 
PuiiuulhalMlcdonietlbuUdtne.nrcalainbarlum, 



nho made tiro holei for raitllUun and lorHubt. 
Boneuuth It llie£ry[ita Neai-Jlltana, aiul Myt 



10 Iho we.t rtirengh 

ijg4i. LndleaareiHil 

.^~j'; >"" "="■■ r/Dio 1(10 (tanloii li B. 

'eadKl tavpect of the Phlegauui FJold. Ixslow. 



Co/omis. oa a rldgei,4&> tectlitxti. Lndiesaroi 
''"""-' »W« fA-m l(.o ».nloii li 



CaplxAin CiinTent at Albuno mnrt aotcly ho tba 
---— — --'.world.nnttlli'WtedtheCiliMliloll 



lltllo domain l> ■ pnJntlaK clllT irhlch coniDUiidi 
> ^orlou rtnr, barlnnliw on the left with KaplMj 
md taklnctn Ciutauuiiiniin. Y\im, Bornpto, MuaOi 
Cape Canpinella, CaiHl Niaida (vltb Lake AKuno 

Jolino, Ponu, and Zannnn& the |in)niiaiIoiy of 
Ciroelo Terraclnn. OaWa. Mola di GoBta. and the 
lulf of QaBU (wUh tho Lake of Patrin In rront), 
lud laBt of all, tho chain of tlie Apenntaici ttendlns 

hlng more cnchintlns. about an hour or Iwohcforo 



B7EHTS OP IMO. 

ed'aTmotl'befcrc b'ta eyes. Theto wsro 
t>to d"Ordlne. rsprMenilnir the Cavonr 

iwindow>."^liekIiig 1e{l unlhcSthoI 
r. for OitHa. uinotlced by the people. Ha 



blp, llie Outi 
erapblc me.iage yi 



ad of hi. army, aa 
Ible Dlotalor a\ Iha 



On tbo tth, Oarlbiildl, acconipanleil by tbi: depoln- 
tlon. thlrtemi offlcen of Ilia stair, and Kine Engllah 
ipedal train of four cnnlnEca 



rNaplee; which 






nd Bant' Elmo were held by Ihc royat tronpa, and 
Ucklni hadactoally ilgiicd decreei for lAuwliig 
ip CaatcluTD and bombard log 4he city. 
Oarlhaldl.ni Dictator, then appointed Uan|iili 
'allavleliio ("ho had been ahut up in Bgilclbers, 
nth 8. Pcllico). Pro-Uletnlor. To Concna hesava 



HeapoUlan n 

miral, Pcraa..- — ■ 

d'Angrl d-Otla. Ho attendc 

plUK Ibe people. 1ib alltndeii 
honour of the Virgin, at Pit i 

adhertnta ot YiVa titaoA 1&tv 



dcd 10 the 1 



in Ad- 



NAPLES — Bxcu RstoN a . 



















thcStatnorihoCfa 


B«li. to effect. Junction wllS 


OflHbaldl. ThliWB 


idoneb) 


Cloldlni nuiYUm:, on 


lOth Sqilraihr 






ecclo. and b) 


r«ntl 


IrodiAminIo 


F^lgno; una 






nsiced i<gnln> 




""jU N™^w" 


irahM 


ehimsf took 


g 




mnlltd in 


Slnort 






irhlle 


M^i'"fi>c^° 














e Voltnrn 


own. (ought 















1 NaplM, with 



loHflildalaiiifon 



_.. paWs/Bn 

lay.intho/faBiifhi/.-Md 
Into Ship, IFuAinptni. f 



iTcl1-DnfjuiiH«d society, known as 

niitle), hardly yel ejtirnated In 
which Ihey lerfod bUek mall. " 
at niMana addicted tndlllonilly i 
ot crime, and exercMnK, ever ■ 
dambiRllon, an Intolerable ' 



G]aa(sa[Uia» 

Into the privm Htablltl 

composed oT llhenited co 



prcamreon Ihcpopula- 
leljfhboDrlne' provinces. 



Ferred who ure gifted with gtent phyilcal tirength, 
riolence are dliposed lo pay thwn according to the 



lie nioAtAacred rights and used the 
iLeeKixcnBflfllhcyH^aBed. Prisoners i 



lolume (Jialg mOtr V\ 






np bli mind to give nolMng la trggari. 

Several train of NeHpalllan life, eipeclally among 
tbc nobility, ate added by Count AirlTalione in hie 

an Englishman ninst be necessarily Igitorant." Tlw 
Jtllalai-tt, or Evil Bye, it sapposed lo be In ccHaIn 
families, WhonPrlncB , who had tills repn- 

way. 'The king, Si lepnol. kindly took him by 



Lo.:al Bnllway, 2* miles, rid romlKllano d'ArcB, 
ifoi^lgllano, and Nola lo BalUia. 

EXCUBSI0H8 FBOH HAPLE8. 

The holldlnRs and artistic objects of Naples are 
Ions of Vesnvlns and Pompeii. These and other 
:he shores of the Bays of Maples and Salerno (or 



numUn tolMi* «M«t^ iVir 



It that cieli^ht.Cu!LW^M«d«^^ 



^i^ wK^flSMjs.^^^w^'' 



248 



BaADSHi.W*8 ITALT. 



[Section 3. 



of the sen, which goes to make a perfect landscape 
and feast to the eye; not to speak of the remahisof 
antiquity left everywhere by the wealthy Romans 
who settled down here. The Bay of Naples was 
called by them. Crater, or Cup, from its resem- 
blance to a bowl half tilled with liquor. To the 
south is Capri, which acts as a breakwater, and 
which should be visited, if only for the view of the 
bay from the sea. E.xcursions can be made by rail- 
way, by carriage, and by water. 

(1.) To the south — Vesuvius, Herculaneum, Pom- 
peii, Castellammare, Sorrento, Vico, Cava, Amalfi, 
Vietrl, Salerno, Ptestum, &c. By rail and road. 

(2.) To the west, by carriage — are Posilipo, Vir- 
girs Tomb, Grotta del Cane, Pozzuoli, Baice Bay, 
Phlegrasau Fields, Temple of Jupiter Serapis, Lake 
Avemus, Elysian Fields, Cumro, Cape Miscnum, <fec. 

(3.) By rail or water — to Castellammare. and 
Sorrento, on the bay; and by water to the islands — 
Capri, Procida, Ischia, &c. 

The rail £rom Naples to Castellaminare, 

round the Bay, is one of the oldest in Italy; 
opened 3rd October, 1839. The Branch to Salerno 
and Eboli is of later date. There are many trains 
daily, to Castellamare, in 40 minutes. 
The stations are as follow : — Miles. 

Portici 6 

To *Herculaneum and Resina, 1 mile; to 
top of ♦Vesuvius, 3 miles. 

Torre del Greco „ 7 

To Vesuvius, 8 miles. 

Torre Annunziata 12^ 

To Vesuvius, 4 miles. 

Branch to ^Castellammare ]6| 

To ♦Amalfi, 8 miles; •Vico. 4 miles; •Sor- 
rento, 10 miles; Massa, 12 miles; Cape 
Minerva, 16 miles.] 

•Pompeii IH 

To Vesuvius, 6 miies. 

Scafati 164 

Angri 19J 

Pagani 21* 

Noccra 22| 

S. Clementc 24| 

•Cava 28 

•Vietri 80^ 

To Amalfi, 6 miles. 

•Salei-no .•. 85 

Pontecagnnno 89^ 

Battipaglla 40 

To ♦Paestura, 14 miles; carriage tliere and 
back, 4 hours, about 18 to 20 francs. 

Eboli 60 

For continuation of this line, see Route 37. 

MOUNT VESUVIUS 

Is 6 or 7 miles from Naples, and 8 miles from the 

shore of the bay. Its highest point varies, after 

eruptions, between 8,900 and 4,800 feet above sea 

/er-e/. It j^sesgraAxxAWy from the Campagna, hav- 

fa^-a base 26 to if miles in circuit. Near the top is a 

fab/o about 5 mllva In diameter^ donnded by a red 

etf^lt''^' *'"' AaW/i^ JIf onto Somma (8,760 

^ """ ^^^ "^^f^f andPunta. del Palo, the present 



cone on the south. Between these is an old crater, 
called Atrio del Oavallo, near the Hermitage, or 
Observatory, where the eruption of 1872 broke out. 
From the Observatory to the crater and back, 2i 
hours. 

Anciently it was called Vesevus, Vesviiu, or 
Vesbitu, and was surroimded, as now, with fertile 
fields, up to near the top, which is barren, and 
terminates in heaps of cinders. Its base is covered 
with white towns, villages, and vineyards, which. 
In spite of repeated warnings, are still inhabited 
and cultivated, on account of the extraordinary 
richness of the soil. On the Naples side arc Portici, 
Resina (over Herculaneum), and Torre del Greco 
(half iniincd in 1862). Further off are Torre dell' 
Annunziata and Pompeii, above which are Bosco 
Reale and Bosco Tit Case (nearly destroyed in 
1822 and 1860). At ordinary times, all that is seea 
is a thhi column of vapour from the cone, which at 
night is lit up by the fire below, or by sudden jets 
of flame. When it begins to be active, an immense 
column of smoke rises up and stretches across the 
sky ; or, perhaps, a bright stream of red lava flows 
down the cone *' as vivid and brilliant as the coils 
of a fiery serpent,'' which, as it cools, turns to a 
dingy red. All this is reflected over the bay with 
extraordinary effect. 

Ascent of Vesuvitu — From Naples by carriage 
direct, from the oflice at 62, Piazza del Martiri, at 
7 a.m., to the foot of the Crater near the Observa- 
tory ; then up the inclined face of the Cone by the 
Funicular (Funicolare) Rail, in a car for 12 per- 
sons, worked by a wire-rope and stationary engine. 
Post and Telegraph Office and Restaurant at the 
Station. Return tickets, 26 lire (about £1) by day, 
or 32 by night, when the Cone is illuminated. This 
includes transport, guiJe, and all gratuities. The 
Funicular takes you within a short distance of the 
top, which can be reached on foot. 

Another way is by rail to Portici, then riding 
to Resina, I mile (p. 260), and the Observatory, at 
the bottom of the Cone. There is an office for 
guides at Resina, but they should be avoiJed, as they 
will fleece you if they can, in spite of the printed 
tariff The views embrace the glorious sea on one 
side, and the bright tops of the Apennines on the 
other, with Naples and the Campagna below. At 
the Cone horses and haulers are to be had, as well 
as at the Funicular, but though to mount it on foot 
is trderably hard work for ladies, no horse is 
really required, nor a chair, nor a helper, beyond a 
gentleman to assist the ladies; nor are guides 
absolutely necessary, as there is a regular footpath 
well frequented at all hours; but they may be 
useful. The horses climb like cats, their owners 
holding on by the bridle and tail. Guide, 6 lire; 
horse, 6 lire; hauler, 8 lire; chair, 20 lire. The 
guides and haulers are apt to be noisy and extor- 
tionate. The strong, rough, Lacryma Christi wine, 
produced at Sant' Anastasia and Somma, on Vesu- 
vius, is offered to visitors, but to suck a lemon is 
the best restorative. 

AnolheT {i«ceiv\.\n8cv \^uiade by rail to PomoH 
(which haft a hBA,\.«t "^^^ <il >i^vi ^^V^inoV then 



Ronte 35.3 



NAPLES— TBStJVlUS. 



249 



taking horses as far as the Cone, past Bosco Reale 
and l^e Case, among fields of ashes and lava, and 
through a small wood ; after which there is nothing 
but ashes, into which the horses plunge knee-deep. 
Miss Catlow says: — "The scene wus the wildest 
that could be imagined, and the most singular. 
Ai'ound us, for miles, were nothing but ashes — 
above, below; to the right hand and to the left, all 
was black, bare, and desolate; extensive enough 
to be grand in its desolation, and only relieved by 
old lava streams, of a reddish or iron-grey colour, 
and sometimes bright yellow, marking the presence 
of sulphur. When we looked up there also were 
ashes, extending for miles, crowned at the summit 
by the smoke and vapour, which oveiy five minutes 
increased in thickness, then threw out a fresh 
volley to add to the heap." 

"The first twenty steps were amply sufficient to 
convince us that it would be totally impossible to 
climb that nearly pei*pendicular ascent of loose 
ashes without help, for we sank above our ankles 
at every step, and slipped one-and-a-half back for 
each two steps we made forward, so we each en- 
gaged two men to help us. The first thing they 
did was to gather up our dresses in the front and 
tie them together with a handkerchief (making a 
loop of the two ends and putting it round one of 
our wrists), to prevent our treading on them. Then 
they placed in our hands a piece of stick, to the 
middle of which a rope was attached, which one 
man put over his shoulder and thus pulled us up ; 
while the other pushed, or rather supported us 
behind. Even with this assistance, it proved the 
hardest work we had ever attempted, particularly 
as it became steeper and more steep. Indeed, only 
the loose ashes could make the ascent practicable; 
yet, of course, they added greatly to the fatigue, 
as at each step we sank into them a considerable 
depth. Every twenty or thirty steps we threw 
ourselves down on the ground to gasp for breath. 
Sometimes, with the mere inability to hold on, we 
let go the rope, and either threw our leader on his 
nose, as he stooped forward in pulling, or ran the 
risk of rolling down the declivity with our follower 
behind. Their strength, however, held us up; 
after a minute's rest came another effort and 
another fall. Several times we were on the pohit 

. of giving it up, for the loss of breath and excessive 
thirst were almost too painful ; but it really looked 
so short a distance that it seemed a pity to fail at 

. last; and our men encouraged us, 'Coraggio, 
SifHiora ! '—assuring us every minute we stopped 
that 'cinque minuti' would take us to the summit. 
After nearly half-an-hour of 'cinque minuti,' we 
arrived at the lava — the very lava we had seen 
flowhig red-hot ten days before; and, then, one 
more steep pull, with smoke and steam above, 
below, and around, placed us panting on the edge 
of the crater." 

This Crater is not a shelving basin, but an 
irregular gulf of lava, from which issue jets of 
vapour and smoke, and which is too hot, some- 
times, to sit on or touch. In the midst are some 
ifnnnel-shaped cones, about 100 feet high, the 

Mfety-valyea of the voicono, giving out their con- 



tents alternately, consisting of smoke, explosions of 
scoriae, or ashes. The rough plain, covered with 
blocks of lava, and heaps of cinders, which stood at 
tl\fi top of Vesuvius before the eruption of October, 
1822, was then succeeded by the present large oval 
gulf, which is 3 miles in circuit, about f mile 
across, and 1,800 or 2,000 feet deep. This eruption 
cleared away 800 feet from the old cone, and 
brought down the height of the mountain by that 
amount. It is now steadily increasing. 

" Twice we saw a singular appearance — that of 
a ring of vapour rising from the cone, and floating 
off to a considerable distance, preserving its perfect 
ring-like form for full half a minute after its 
emission." This is explained by Babbage. in his 
Passages from the Life of a Philosopher, in which he 
gives a minute account of one of the lava pits. 
Ladies descend the steep sides of the Tone between 
the guides. Among later distinguished visitors 
were the Prince and Princess of Pru^a, and the 
Prince of "Wales, in November, 1862. 

One of the earliest notices of Vesuvius states 
that the top was a rough concave, in which Spar- 
tacus, in the Servile War, was besieged by the 
Romans. In a.d. 63, an earthquake damaged Pom- 
peii and other places round the mountain ; and in 
A.D. 79, one of the greatest eruptions on record took 
place, which overwhelmed Pompeii^ Hereulaneum, 
and Stabiai with cinders, and occasioned the death 
of Plfaiy the Elder, author of the "Natural His- 
tory," as related by his nephew, the younger Pliny, 
who narrowly escaped with his life. His uncle 
was in command of the Roman fleet at Misenum, 
but being an ardent note-taker of everything un- 
common or curious, and also a stout man, he went 
too near the mountain, at Stabiae, and was suffo- 
cated by the fumes. His body was found three 
days after, unhurt, like one asleep. Herculaneum 
was re-discovered in 1713, and Pompeii about forty 
years later. 

Eruptiom, chiefly of ashes, succeeded this re- 
markable one, in 203, 472, 512, 685, 993, 1036, 1049, 
1139, 1806, 1500, 16 a, 1660, 1682, 1694, and 1698. 
Those of the last century were 1701, 1707, 1712, 
1717, 1720, 172S, 1780, 1737, 1751, 1754, 1758, 17«0. 
1766, 1767, 1770, 1776, 1779, 1784, 1786, 1787, and 
1793. Of the present conturv, 1804, 1805, 1809, 
1812^1813, 1817, 18 0, 1822, 1828, 1881, 1834, 1838, 
1845, 1850, 1854, IS-'td, and 1861 (December 8th). 
The most recent were those of February, 1866, 
when snow covered the mountain, and a cone many 
feet high was formed at the foot of the crater of 
1861; and of 1872, which overwhelmed Massa and 
S. Sebastiano, and destroyed sixty lives. This one 
broke out 25th April, near Professor Palniieri's 
Observatory on Hermitage Hill, 2,080 feet high ; 
the lava pouring down to Torre del Greco, Resina, 
&c. The flames rose a mile high, and ashes and 
stones were carried 10 and 20 miles. The later ones 
have been generally attended with eruptions of 
lava ; in particular those of 1767, 1779, 1787, 1794, 
1806, 1818. &c. It is observed that Etna is active 
when Vcsuvlua !«. wv\sx> ^"^ '«vYVW»^•<^'^'^'6»=^$^ 



tar B9 Coustoutlnoult. 01 Ihf luinErals thrown 
up (utnui bn). n lull collcctkiii It In iIif Museuu 

BAILWAT BODNS THE BAT. 

[The dl-iauOBs are flv™ on p,isc 24S.1 
PorUCi (gut.), H.6 firm from Naples, is = 
tnwn •)[ 8.SM ponuliilloii, » ullcd. II 1> ntid. froni 
McmiHt Ptriinrm, witb manT tIIUh. nnd n rorii] 
JMfoR. built. ITS':, h]- Charlu HI., where the aiit). 
qnlllci rmm the burled cIKb were pliictd at ant 
before their tnnnfcr to Nb|iIc>. Them au tomi 
pmtrHlti of the Hapitlein fanilly In the paUce 
FlluIX.teaidedlicre, 1M8-Sn.hcfure blicelnru u 

RMillAfthe anolent tttlijia. with a i»|>nIatlon ol 
MMt, and many 'illas. Thedliiance (ram Ponlcl 

tlunii la } mlla: guide not rnmlrrd. Itealna li 

and xandK oter the burled Human cKy uf 
•Heronlanenm, nneoJ those overwhelmed a.b 

Has ncclilenlally dlKnrered ajubi In \',U. whei 

by [orch-lljlil {Sfr.) A space of Suii yards Ion; 
l^ SHK" broad was EradDRlly esplnred; Iml thi 
toll b^K n (rey emmWlns: >(oim as snon as om 
section was proe ihrowh It was filled with Ihi 

aeeumnlated were engraved In a tpleudld worl 
(.rlnted by the King of Naples. 17GI, They are 
gonorally, of a belter style ol art Ihnh those (onni 
al Pompeii. TheTheal '•■ ■-'•■ -'■—■-■■" 



I Imllt, K 



onnd. with n partleo of 



forty-twDcnlnnmi: fneedbyi 

Umbus fanilly, now In Ihc kuKum. in »mna-:' 

eniinbling charcoal some of wbteh hu.e been un- 
rolled and deglphered, as already mentioned (paEC 
V4S). 

TOire del Oreen (SteU Population. SI.MI. 
Cond-Hork' ■- "-—-■---■-■- —-•-— 



s:;"Cj 



ruined by the earthqi 

newplaeMi>ntl.l8.ld_ 

which bnrst out lo May, ISse, lasted till April. IMI. 

Torre Anniuulati iStat.) Population. 
^"il4" '^""^'*- ll-toagh Oltigano and Cnncelln, 



S ITALI 






[Sectio 


a S. 


Here th 


branch 


(o Caslellam 


nare (p.ge 


m) 












Fompeil^aUt.) 










CIT7 OF FOHPEII, 




on the south side, en 






mUi 












which IS 


SIHlrid' 


be paldeac 




nter^ 


ng).oincl 




UPDI led free 






OBSnnday 


gratis, when (["idea 






PuintKMI 




plain of th 


> Samo. a 




Sor-w al 


the^botl. 










I early 


n an ant u in 










der sueeessi 






and «he. 


'This,™ 







jylt. Thef 



tnrstlnK In their roofs, and gra- 

leovery tn I7U. when the eica. 
I. which han b«n carrlod on 



dly as K we had lived amoiif 
: MribMIng on the walls. Th 
il easts o( bodle., among them 
■ Ilia, amphnne. &c. bverytl 



■alls, w 



1 elsht I 



third of thol^'a within Ihe 
city, which was evidently a sum 
vntlon, so that you see nothbig til 



I feet 



In their puhlle buildings. The shop* ar 
lie storey hl^h. Some of the privat 
: of two Klorej's, as thai of l>lomc<les. Ac 



e line m^). and 



Route 33.] 



HESCULANI^nM, POMPEII. 



231 



foraTintner; a cow for a milk-man. Others, as ' 
the wine and oil shops, arc knoi^-n by the ainphorie, 
or jars, standing in fi-ont. They were unglazed, 
and closed up at night with shutters. 

The large houses belonging to the wealthier 
classes extend through from street to street, with 
a front in each. The entrance (vestibulumj led into 
the outer court, thence into an inner or two inner 
courts; the whole suiTounded by rooms, all very 
small, and evidently used only as closets, for meals, 
retirement, and sleep. These were closed in ; but 
the courts were open to the air, though sheltered 
by an avniing. Glass was used in some of the 
windows. There were seats and sofas round the 
courts, which had mosaic floors, and contained tanks 
and fountains for use and ornament, vases of 
flowers, statuary, and marble tables. The walls 
and columns were oftcner of stucco than marble; 
and the walls were adorned with frescoes, of which 
840 have been found, as bright now as they were 
1,800 years ago. Most of them are in the Museum 
at Naples. 

Many of the houses have holes in them, supposed 
to have been made by the owners, upon returning 
to get out the strong box or some valuable article, 
after digging through the pumice and hot ashes 
which overwhelmed the town. Dean Burgon says — 
"No single object in all Pompeii affected my 
imagination so powerfully as discovering scratched 
on the base of a column in one of the courts, about 
3 feet from the ground, the first letters of the 
Greek alphabet, A, B, F, A ; evidently the work 
of a child whose little footsteps trod that floor 
eighteen centuries ago." The streets brought to 
light are called by various names, as the Street of 
Fortune, Street of Mercury, Street of the Nereids, 
Street of Abundance, Street of the Faun, in which 
the fretco of the Battle of Issus was found, and the 
like. The Street of the Tombs, by which the town 
was altered from Herculaneum, is outside the 
walls, and is lined by many beautiful monuments, 
according to the ancient custom. Here is the 
Villa or House of A/. A. Diomedss (o|>encd 1771- 
74), where eighteen skeletons of women and 
children were found in a cellar, casts of some of 
which are in the Museum. They were provided 
with food, and were buried in ashes. The master 
of the house was found in the garden, and beside 
him, a slave, loaded witTi money and valuables. 
Ncaf this is a Tavem ; with the Tombs of Naevoleia 
Tyche, Calventius Quintus (1813), Ariclus Scaurus, 
DIomedes, and others. Then a hemicyclc, or 
senjicircular resting-place, where skeletons of a 
mother and her children were found. Further on 
is the Villa of Cicero (1764), so called; Tombs of 
Mammia, Cerrinius, Porcius, Ac. In 1881, Mr. R. 
Forbes discovered a house where the arches spring 
direct from the capitals of the columns, and built 
before a.d. 63, the daie to which this style is usually 
referred. • 

The Herculaneum Gate, which was of three brick 
arches, leads to the Street of Herculaneum. Here 
are the Tabema of Albinus (1770); a Thcrmo- 
polittm (1769), or Restaurant, where t/iat'Jirs o/ 



drinking-ressefs were found on the counter; the 
House of the Vestals (1769), with "Salve" on the 
door; House of the Surgeon where instruments 
and slabs were found; the House of Apollo, or 
Narcissus (1811); a Public Bakery (1810) contahi- 
ing four mills. 

The House of C. Sallust (1809), one of the largest 
here, on a space 120 feet square. 

House ofPansa, the JEdile (1811-14) in the street 
delle Terine, another large house, in good preser- 
vation, with "Pansara .55d.," and remains of 
paintings on the walls. It is 300 feet by 120 feet, 
fitted up with an atrium, impluvium, tablinum, 
triclinium, pcrislyle, &c., as seen in the restored 
model of it, in the Crystal Palace. Here Christian 
symbols, accompanied by caricatures, have been 
discovered. 

House of the Tragic Poet (1824-26), with a "Cave 
Canem " in mosaic (now at Naples). Here some 
of the best painthigs, as the Sacrifice of Iphigcnia, 
Achilles and Briseis, <fcc., were found. 

Public Baths (1824), nearly 0])posite, for men 
and women, with painted walls, niches for oil and 
perfumes. These were almost new, when covered 
with the ashes. Near these is the School of the 
Gladiators — so called from the paintings. Also 
the House of Iphigcnia, close to the recent exca- 
vations. 

House of Meleager (1830), in the Street of Mer- 
cury. 

Fullonica, or Fuller's House (1826). 

House of the Nereids (183i>), with a colonnade 
of twenty-four pillars. House of the Quaestor, or 
Castor and Pollux (1829-30). Here two bronze 
money chests were found containing fifty coins; 
with some others which looked as if they were 
dug out after the eruption. 

Houses of Apollo and of the Wounded Adonis, 
and a Tavern, with ornaments alluding to drinking. 

House of the Faun (1829-34), in the Street of the 
Faun. House of the Labyrinth (1830). 

Other remarkable edifices are Casa del Diadu- 
meni, with a handsome hall wiih fourteen columns. 
House of Siricus, with an adjoining bakehouse; 
one of the rooms contains good paintings of 
Neptune and Apollo. Vulcan and Thetis, and 
Hercules intoxicated. Himse with the Balcony 
(restored) in a street called the Vicolo del Balconc 
Pensile. House of the Boar Hunt, so called from 
a mosaic. 

Forum, an oblong, about 620 feet by 110, sur- 
rounded by remains of public buildings, temples, 
aiches, pedestals for statues, <fec., and the pillars of 
« Doric colonnade, on a small scale, the height be- 
ing only 12 feet. 

Temple of Jupiter (1817), north of the Forum, 120 
feet by 43 feet, with Corinthian columns, having a 
fine view over the ancient city, and of the sea. In 
the prisons, near this, two skeletons were found Icl 
iron stocks 
\ Temple ij VenMA V>SV:VV^^^\.^^ ^^^w«sc..^^^ 



252 



BBADSBAVs ITALY. 



tSection 8. 



rounded by a portico. The deity to whom this was 
dedicated was, however, probably Apollo. 

Temple of Fortune, built by M. Tullius. 

Basilica^ or Court of Justice, also west of the 
Forum, an open building 220 feet by ^0; the 
largest in Pompeii, and the best preserved basilica 
now existing. It stood on twenty-eight brick 
columns covered with stucco; those at the corners 
being clustered like Gothic pillars. Near this are 
the Houses of Championnet, discovered by General 
Championnet (1799), and a Public School. 

Eaxhange (1821), east of the Forum, built by the 
priestess Eumachia, 120 feet Jby 65 feet, sur- 
rouuded by a double gallery and portico. Near 
this are— the House of the Queen of England 
opened (1838) before Queen Adelaide; and the 
Temple of Mercury, or Augustus (1818). 

Pantheon, or Temple of Augustus (1818), cast of 
the Forum, an open space, having an altai* in the 
midst, surrounded by twelve pedestals, cells for 
the priests, and an asdicula coloui'ed with good 
fresh-looking frescoes. 

Two Theatres, large and small, open at the top. 
The larger, a tragic Theatre (1764), would hold 
about 5,000 ; the smaller (1796), about 1,600. 

Temple of Hercules, or Neptune (1769), made of 
large massive stones, and reckoned to be the oldest 
building in Pompeii. It conmiands a fine view. 

Temple o/Isis (1765). — Here a skeleton of a priest 
was found, with his valuables about him; also re- 
mains of chicken bones and fish bones, egg shells. 

Gladiators' Barracks, in which sixty skeletons, 
and stocks for punishment were found. Boxing 
figures weie found scratched on the walls. These, 
with the above-mentioned theatres and temples, 
are near the Triangular Forum. 

Amphitheatre (1748-1816), at the east extremity 
of the town, beyond a space still uncleared; an 
oval 430 feet by 335 feet, and comparatively small ; 
but the lower part, where the ashes protected it, 
is almost perfect. 

Near the Amphitheatre is the Villa of Julia 
Felix (1754-5), the owner of much property here. 

Several houses have their walls oniamented with 
arabesques and landscapes, and figures roughly 
sketched. Among the inscriptions are some from 
Virgil, Ovid, and Propcrtius, l)ut none from 
Horace ; nor have any paj)yri been yet discovered 
here, as at Herculancum. in September, 1803. the 
remains of four Skeletons were discovered in a 
small street, under a heap of indurated ashes 
which had moulded itself over them. By pouring 
in liquid plaster, the Director, Cavaliere FioreUi, 
managed to preserve the bodies in the attitudes and 
dresses in which they were surprised by the erup- 
tion. They are in die Pompeii Museum. (See a 
description of them, page 242.) 

T/ie visit requires 4 or 6 hours lor even a 
'^ry ftjspection; those who caDBot spare this 
aJdoait tlie Amphitheatre, 



Castellammare (Stat) houhs : Qaisisana, 

opposite the Palace, in view of Vesuvius, Ac.; 
Stubia, on the sea, with a fine view; Reale (Royal); 
Europe; Gran Brctagna; Italia; Imperiale. In 
a spot on the south side of the bay, between it 
and the slope of the S. Angelo range,* called Monte 
d*Auro. Population, 22,210. It commands an 
excellent view of Vesuvius and the bay, especially 
from the Royal Villa of Quisisana (i.e.. Here is 
health), a plain building up the hills, now Hotel 
Margherita. There is a walk through the Bosco 
di Quisisana, Monte Coppola, and to the highest 
point of the S. Angelo, called Tre Pizzi. The 
Monte Pozzano Convent, passed on the return 
fi-om Monte Coppola, was founded by Gonsalvo 
da Cordova, on the site of a Ten^le of Diana. 

Castellammare has a royal dockyard and arsenal, 
with some mineral springs. It stands on the site of 
*8tabise, which was ruined by Sylla, and destroyed 
A.D. 79, with Pompeii and Herculaneum. 

The sea retired from it during the eruption and 
from the coast, leaving a place for the modem 
tovni, which grew out of a castle founded by the 
Emperor Frederick II. Charles of Anjou walled 
it round. It was while making for Stabim that the 
elder Pliny met with his death. It is a favourite 
resort in summer, and there is a beautiful road by 
Vico Equense (p. 263) to Sorrento. 

The great earthquake of December, 1857, was 
felt all over the south of Italy. Its eflTects at Cas- 
tellammare, on night of 10th December, are de- 
scribed by Miss Catlow, a resident at the time. 

"We retired early, but after a short time were 
disturbed with a slight cracking noise, which, as 
we attributed it at first to the wood -fire in the ad- 
joining room, did not excite any alarm. As it in- 
creased, however, our attention was aroused, and as 
we listened, the same noise began in our room, 
accompanied by an indescribable gi'ating and rus- 
tling, as though the walls had suddenly been en- 
dowed with life. We started up with a vague feel- 
ing that something terrible was about to happen ; 
and then the whole house began to move and tee knew 
it teas an earthquake ! Almost before the motion 
ceased (and it lasted only a few seconds), the large 
square before the hotel was filled with people, 
screamuig and calling- out, ' II terremoto ! II ter- 
remoto!' While getting a light the awfml and 
mysterious sounds returned far more violently. All 
the walls and beams seemed to be iTibbing against 
each other, and cracking as though they would 
split from top to bottom. Two minutes after the 
oscillations began again, and with much greater 
violence. We stood in the middle of the room 
holding by the chairs and each other; the floor 
appearing to heave under our feet, and the walls 
swaying backwards and forwards. This was a 
terrible moment; -and not the least fearful part 
was the shrieking of the poor people, the loud 
screams of the children, and the ringing of the 
church bells cdused by the vibration. We felt as 
if one mote %YkaVL« m^o&\. bring this large, square, 
solid lioTise do\m."" 



rWnirhlKbln 
irhlch. when tb« evening Aun tonchat It nith goM 

ilcllM-mliiirlnit. In thl> raw, until Uie 

. nilli n' motion Itke that nf a lid of a 

tiiero wm's Hunrt shock,' an'd'then -wB Mt no 

» e«.'i iB Lettihe. In H fine sltoa- 



(T Monio Core 
Orajjwno Ipopnlati 



II.STfl). ■ plan famoui 
,!..«..., ...u ,...dlngr BicHLml wliit 
nnd tt a mart aiuuslDg tight. On 

irlth bare limhs. ireirki;; only uhlrl anil 

■orfc thc"othor^d"ot°hc''reyer"iihlcli 

I. kneaded It by a constant ancccalon of 

ircle, Ihoy auddcniy Jcrkfd the pole 

niorc Two men were mMng a 
flour, mada of Sicilinn I'um, with 

w rd> and forwards wllh a long lovn 
« cw, hj- which the paMe wan loreal 



I>edrylngllne.~— (VteCOtfwJ Thli 
nery might ontlly be lia|irOTCd, bul 
their faces agalnat any change. 



tdetoreiqae route, mmethlng like the RiTtera 

hUla and climi on the other. It U a char 

labyrinth of orange and lemon gardena. 



B plctnieaqncly seated oi 



253 

.■ico Is noted (orltsinwd wine. The Cathe- 

lumlnR- Punta dl 9co1nlo. a fine prospoct 

with nrnn^e, mulberry. l»non And other 
snmivi In with hill" on t 



are 300 feet 
. Thennall 
from whicb 



Eagliih Church Sertia, In anmmor, 

and aHrrmlum of the Romana. Papulation, I.OOD. 
■ntrance to it ii eloac to a dccji, pIclnHnqo* 
. Itlilheblrth-plwenf ISuw, and n hUhop'a 
tandlng In the delbthtfnl plahi JnM men- 
I, whleh, h^ng mild and iholterod, lo enTcrcd 



er. Boata ran dally in Naplea, It 
mlhobay. TllUnandlodglngani 



Ion chnraeler. Ca^rla!{e^ mnlni, donkeya. and 
Tioati may lie hired for visiting the polnU of 
view with whieh the nel^hlKmrhond of thla bcai^ 
ilful ■p'M ah'^lnd^ and whieb have made It a 
favourite ro^ldonee from the tliue of Angnatna. 
Here, for a lloK. lived Boeeaeohi, Dnmenloliino, 
BlHiffUDlelta, Cararaggto, Balvator Rnia, andotbar 
anlMa. Theaecnerylatbeperfocthni of tbatatyl* 



h™ rii« I 



vatlowed np by the tea, , 
mil he nisn Mow the 
_ hhhe roiurofdaftwhla 

i, Pa'laiio Seraalo. Ho It claimed by 

which Ooldonl defend) by the old 

■dlb d«l pnol vl fKttil oMhdhI" 

I few larffe bnildlnga are the filthop'a i 



The other antlqultlet comprlae fragme 
Templa of Berenlte, and of ma AmiMf 



254 



BBADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 3. 



Excursions may be made to various places within 
a few miles of Sorrento. (1.) To the Conti ficlle 
Fontanelle and Ccrmenna Hills, at the back of the 
town, on the rid.i,'e which runs through the penin- 
sula, said to be infested with wolves in w.nter. 
From Piccolo S. Anjrclo there is a splendid view 
of both gulfs. Cape Minerva, the Rock of Capri, 
the Syrens, the Groves of Amalfi, the Plain of 
Paestum : a prospect of incomparable beauty. 
Thence down by a steep, picturesque path to 
Scaricatojo (4 miles from Sorrento), on the Bay of 
Salermo, the nearest place for a boat to the Isles of 
the Syrens, opposite. 2 miles distant. These unin 
habited rocks, otherwise called / Gafli, from the 
gualH, or towerp, erected by Pedro dc ToUedo, to 
jfuard the coast, were formerly the state prison of 
the little Republic of Amalfi (further east), and are 
the "Sircnum Scopuli," of Virgil, where the 
Syrens lived, who attracted their victims with a 
song, and then ate them up. From Scaricatojo it 
Is 4 miles, along the coast, to Positaso; which 
may be reached direct from Sorrento, vid the 
picturesque village of Arola and Santa Maria a 
Castello. 

(2.) A round of 10 or 12 miles m^ betaken from 
Sorrento to Santa Agata Beserto, a convent on a 
point commanding an extensive prospect of land 
and sea; thence down to CrapoUo, Nerano, and 
Punta delta Campanella, the ancient Cape Minerva, 
at the end of the peninsula, where stood a temple 
to Minerva: now marked by a bell-tower, built in 
the sixteenth century, to wan» the country of the 
approach of corsairs. Capri Is 3 miles from this 
pouit, but is best visited by a boat from Salerno 
(9 miles). Thence round to Marclano, and Ma.ssa^ 
or Massalubrense, a town of 8,413 population, with 
8. Francesco's Church (on the site of a Temple of 
Juno), the festa of which is 16th August. From 
this It is 3 miles to Sorrento. 

From Torre dell' Annunzlata (Stat.) the 

rail passes 

Pompeii (Stat.), Valle di Pompeii (Stat.), 

and 

Scafatl (Stat.), on the River Samo. in a fertile 
plam. Near this place. In 1853, were found the 
remains of a villa, 3 or 4 feet below the surface. 
Except the arcades It had no likeness to those at 
Pompeii. It contained ten rooms; skeletons of a 
man, woman, and bird, with some bronze iustm- 
ments. Thence past 

Angrl (Stat.), under the Monte Angelo, and 
among vhieyarda and cotton fields. 

Paganl (Stat.) Population, 12,7dl. So called 
from the old Saracen Pagans (as they are callen) 
settled at Nocera. At the church are relics of 
S. Alfonso dl Liguori. 

Ifooera CStat,) ThfitcncinxtNuceriaAnnxaX- 

fc^ furrounde<I hy volcanic hilla. Here i'^rcderick 

T^/^^^f^ ^^'^^ Saracent; and, in the citadel, 

^^J^ VI. ^aM besieged for »ix wontbtt by Charies 



of Durazzo, against whom the Pope thundered a 
dally excommunication. Nocera (sometimes called 
Nocera del Paganl) is divided Into Superiore and 
Inferiore, with a population of 22,915. 

S. Clementl (Stat.), where the line enters 
the hills, close to the road to Salerno, passing 
through a valley offering some of the most charm- 
ing scenery about Naples. 

Cava (Stat.), among magnificent hlUs, between 
Monte Angelo and a branch of the Apennines, 
which terminates on the Gulf of Salerno. Valery 
describes La Cava as a Swiss valley, with tlie sun 
and olives of Naples. It Is full of the "savage 
picturesque" which Salvator Rosa loved to palut. 
Population, 19,500. It consists of a few old narrow 
arcaded streets ; and, among other attractions, it 
has the ancient Benedicthic Monastery of Trinity 
deir Cava, on Monte Finestra, founded 1025; re- 
markable for its archives, containing above 40,000 
parchments and 40,000 paper documents, relative 
to mediaeval history, the earliest dating from 840. 
Here Fllanglerl composed his history. 

Vletrl (Stat.), population, 9,350, on the Gulf 
of Salerno, at the mouth of the La Cava Gorge; 
a wild and romantic spot, with fine hills, broken 
cliffs, and splendid sea views. The village is 
perched on the heights above. From here a visit 
may be paid to Amalfi, 6 miles to the west, along 
a picturesque road, which winds and changes 
every 60 yards. Diligence twice dally. 

[Yletrl to Amalfi.— The road passes a succession 
of gorges, or ravines, from the Monte Angelo. with 
a village at the mouth of each, guarded by ma- 
chicolated castles and forts perched on the cliffs 
above, in the Norman style. The first place la 

Cetara, a picturesque little fishing village, which 
was a nest of pirates in the last century. It is 
close to an ancient tower and backed by lofty hills. 
Round Cape d'Orso, into the lovely Bay of Amalfi, 
under Monte Falesco and its ruined convent. 

Majori. or Maiobi, at the mouth of the little 
River Senna, has paper and macaroni mills, and the 
old Castle of Santa Nicola on the heights. 

MixoRi, noted for Its lemons, olives, and vine- 
yards. Is near a steep hill, which is terraced up to 
the top with gardens. 

Atrani, a small town, with a church having 
handsome bronze doors of the 11th century. 

Amalfi, a bishop's see, on the rapid Canneto. 

Hotels: Del Cappuccbil; Delia Luna. 

It is in a fine situation, on the steep side of a 
cliff, at the mouth of the gorge, and though having 
now only 7,000 inhabitants, and full of beggars and 
dirt, was In the twelfth century a thriving port 
and republic, with a population of A0,000. It is 
said to have been founded by some Roman settlers 
in the fourth century; it embarked in the crusades, 
and opened a great trade with the East, in common 
with Venice^ Genoa., &a.\ Vi«A a line of doges, and 
obtained ^MQ&«\Qiii ol \Xv« V\««ki^ <A C>«:^\. TVa 



riffi'S 



: chDk«(l wlib 



eleventh Motiin' tt wu ufcai byEohcrtljiiiicnnL 
whoM dlneovcry hero o( n copy uf Jiuiinlnn's 
law in Euinpe. Tlia wly bniJ<lli>e u( now l> tlx 

CaaudralufS.Aa^rfa.n gnoil iprclmeii ufthc 
Nomiuittyleufllicelevsnlticentiiry. Ithreuhed 
by fitly uiivi, anil b»B»pi|anllct i jwrtlcu ml' 
Ingon ancient jilllnn,tnini fBtnui; bruiiiediKirg 



The Cupuchln Monastery (lIlS) li now a dtp 



paiiiled froni a cave near the Capnehin (iuiivent, 
tDuiided nil. U leail> up tu Uieol.l Cuslelln dl 






rounded lOSt, by Rohcn Gubcard, with luMerialt 
from llio nilna oF rAatnm. tie«idu mno ancleut 
bai-rclleb, plllan, Ac^. It contatni the tonlia ol 
l^ipe Qregvr>- VII., the faniunit lIlMcbrandt who 



. The Mi4llcal Bcliool 

IS ph} ilclani In Hie 
uiiiui viiiiiirjr, Min iiiviTHi u; i^iHiKtanllniu Aler, w 
Afrlcannn, a Carthage refugee, siupoctcd of nairfo 
In bin owu country, who witlcd heio ta 1060. Oiia 
ot lt>nieiulKnwa>thefanuin>Juiinof Prucliln.thg 
advtocr of the Sicilian Veapen. In tin a Uedleil 

the uldcK mcdk-al rtatuto 1 

"Rcgluicn Hanilatln," 'iii 

]il>o]MKonto4») wu played, ISSVv 






laulled In 



10 the V 






l»vello,uplhelillU,lllio 
lion 1,000 tonce Be,00>),i 



F next plac« to Vlettl in 

; Inshlllerra-onllie. 
otSalopni>,(orraerlyof 



™'8Sen 
nnilla. th 



(bout! 

In-Rvn, on Iho Via Aonilla. the teat of Ihe loenl 

tlon rf 8v,0OD. '■ ■■- - - ' ■-- 

an eld coMla, b 
bnt. Ihoiuthonc 

fmrt of Italj. hit w» rnlaKl li IIM, by Ibe 






wSlloiilc Aiihwno hiThe'calabHau Mgniitah°i. It 
laawampy, and divided Into taree lamii, with Bus 
grey oxen, bluek bntralou, ilieep, goati, plga, and 

ie^«m>°iln'd at night. The line crviucK the River 

hilo'hnrd emcHte"nin>e. Bctwei>ii thl> and pBa- 
tiini, CransDs defeated Spartacni, lu the Servlla 

PeitO, the ancleat Piaitim. couilst chiefly of Iha 
reniabii uftlireeToaipleslonenilKaUedulIaelllca), 
and are Interoxthig, ae apeclmona of the earliest 

motilve charaefer, carre^pondhig In ago with tha 

■pot. near the Flume Batw. which ha> a TWtTl^lng 



The narwl town li Capaccio (popt 
PsatmnvBi partly Inhabited til 
eonlory. "hen Robert GuiMBrd rr 
-t.monobnlWSalmiD. Thelarga 
the 'Tfempte of Jfep/wte, wia tftfi fi 






vhat stumj^ In AppoiraDca, From the dlqproper- 
tlvnhetwHsilielrdluDeteriuidbelshi. The height 
(tncludlnR the caplUl) ot caeh 1> W feet ID Inehce: 
diamtter at Iha bug. and bBlmr the ceTdtal, T feet 
and * teet B Ineheg. The eajiltal and abacDi hare 



the [roiiL wi ahoTcX or thlTty-fuur In nil. Kin 
which arc Rated, There are eome elltiht dlffcve 
ofornmiMninitaintFmally. HelBht ot colnuin 
capital, ill feet i Inchn, The pediments at < 



divided this temple doim the middle, and made a 
dull I lupleont. assaiDD BDppoH. Thepmati 
fall In uddenly at abnnt tm-tblrdi of the lielght 
vrbl h 1^ CI1 IheniahDlsinE appearance. H^ht, 

All th ee templea are elevated three stepfl from 
the E ui I; tbrdr colnmna are without baaea. 



Only the vsuIK and the ghape of a nnati AmpM- 

Ihe city are plain enouEli on three ildea. eapeelally 
on the caBt^ where plccea of tower, eil.t. " 

"blforflroHarlflPKSll.-donhla-bearlTiBrosea.' 



K&plas to PoalUpo, the Orotta del Otuia, 
f oiEnali, SoifSitaik, Bilte, Cape UiBennm, 

CnmsB, Ac. 



iplaln%'st'yjt. and Acheron, the E^lan ReWa, 



KnoTs. mad 
»etera] mod 
the Galola 



■I the Chlaja and Her^el- 



<f Vedlna 



jry. is derWed ftom a Greek word, equl- 

■t PoUlo'i Villa. Farther on, tn the Gnlf o( Poi- 
'nnta dl CoroR:]lo, called ffrolM lU Sstotc, or 
Tldor than that of Poallippo, nearer the city, 
he engineer, (^poslle Ihli i> the Laiaretto Tee- 
out h-woat wind, blows: Indde the fVoiufc/jrfiAla, 
hs ancient Sail, whliih It the crater of an extinct 



aed to AgropciJ, H " - . , — - 

Ilea fnrtber, aodle intended i exhibltioD 

t Uat */ (to "laiUf" ( ' — 



(I.) Leaving Naples by the Qrotlaof Poslllpo, 

off (o Bagnoll. and a road (cei off to Lati AananB. 

modern date, which gives out much mlphnreot 

be at the bottom of the lake. On the lonlh ban. 
near (he road are the aolphuT and alum Taponi 
baths, called S/afi di S- Germarvt (after a bishop 

Orotta ilel Cane, or Dog Brotto f a<i 

boric add gsa, and are fatal to any one breaUiing 

the dnga kept by the cnslode to eipiviment Dpon, 

for which 1 lira extra charRed. In a few aoeonda 
the doK falls sensejeas, and Is reWved by bdog 

lighted torch ii quite euough to prove tha well- 
known fact thai this gai slope combBRIon, th* 
Li efiffiti on a mltanUa doc !■ <■' 



Bitneai UiHite Anronl mill Poirnoll ll 
nrum Vafranl, which ponred do 



L OUia, FOZZUOt.1. 1ST 

tSO (est by 380, with toai Bnlruicei ; belsf 
what larger Ituui tlul it Vtnot and Dld«r 
that of Rome. Hero peifonued hero u » 
aior. It the tbna wh™ ha Hiurialntd Tirl. 

' "NoarTli Is 'relic are two reaeriolnii tme, 

iw 111; the other, called the Labyrinth <4 
iluB. There arc remains o[ Ballu. fonnerly 
<1 the Temple of Diana and ^{e[>tlme; ■]« 



a Atqua tietKi Bol'a, 






Ponuoll (Holrh Or 
■Dlalnauuallgviri 1> 
/-.*»?(. (onuarly the eh 



bBforeprocecdipelo Borne, It baa ili 
f nHD iha QMha, tancena, Turki, aii d 
but tin thiODKh eriiF(i«ia Erom the 
HoBts HnoTo bablnd It, esp^Jally ih 

-■-molil.halt-rii' ■ - — 

on, 1 

tmnplsi, Tlll«.th 

tl«a. u well aa in wuufi u4iiy»», iiuu 

&□., which aranunufaclured here 'i grei 

by tbe N^e^ uaple in hot wealhfr 
noted brigaud, Uauil. wa> killed, 1873. 

The CilHeiriit of s. frontfo la on the 






Qucstluna and other works. Hereabouts are seen 
iiBUho'e o' a TeiSe'Sf NeVq!I^''a^d aaulhe''r"oi 

• Tempit Iff JvpiKr Serapii, dedicated 10 Otlrla, 
which tellj a reinarkabJe tale npon thefaceof il,o( 

casloued by yolcsnlc action, o( which at pioeh ii 
made in Lyell'a Oeolegn. It was a ranad bulldihr 



'AtfiQdamtti maiiiola, a borinir mollusc, the shells of 
To accoont 



tllt»arowsoIi(cli«a,Bi#dcof l»ysrio( tlilp'bfi(it the grwt qnanHty of athM Wd buniln(r malitj 



258 



BBADSUAW 8 ITALY. 



[Section S.' 



the sea consequently retiring beyond where it had 
before been. At the time of this extraordinary 
event the temple was probably rained; and the 
little maruio animals that so clearly tell the 
wonderful tale, all died. At the early part of the 
present century the pavement was dry, or at least 
was only occasionally covered during storms, when 
the sea rose high. In twenty yenrs after it was 
covered by the high tides, which, though very 
slight in this neighbourhood, do make a difference 
on the shores. Since then the water has been again 
gradually gaining a higher level ; and when we 
saw it there seemed to be a depth of 2 feet." — 
(Mtss Catlow's Sketching Rambles.) The earth- 
quake of December, 1856, was felt here. 

About 1 mile further, close to the road to Baiie, 
la Monte Nuovo^ a volcano of modem date, which 
rose up in September, 1538, and in so doing over- 
whelmed part of the Lucrine Lake, the Villa of 
Agrlppina, part of the Canal of Agrippa, and the 
Village of Tripergola, which was then resorted to 
for its baths. It is now about 440 feet above sea, 
and is excavated for pozzuolana. 

Lake Lucrintu, famous for its oyster beds, is a 
muddy pool, close to the sea, but separated from it 
by a very ancient causeway, called Via Hcrculea, 
the remains of which are seen under the water. 
It was mostly filled up by the eruption of Monte 
Nuovo, and was itself, at one period, a crater. In 
her villa near this, Nero's mother, Agrippina, was 
smothered by his orders, after his attempt to 
drown her. To the north of this is 

Lake Avernus, in another crater, 2 miles round, 
the scene of ^neas's descent to the Cimmerian 
shades, according to Virgil. It Is about 60 yards 
deep, abounds with fish and wild ducks, and, being 
surrounded with chestnut trees and vineyards, is 
not so gloomy as poetical descriptions would make 
it out to be; though former exhalations may have 
rendered it less pleasant. A grippa employed 20,000 
slaves to cut a canal between this and Lake Lucrine, 
which was turned into Portus Julius, on the sea; 
and gave a sham fight on both lakes, in imitation 
of the battle of Actium. Two tumiels were con- 
structed towards Baias and Cumae, one of which, 
near the south side of this lake, is the 
. SibyVs Cave or Grotto; in reality nothing more 
than a dark passage, now nearly filled with water 
from a spring, but partly accessible with torches, 
for a fee. The real cave is at Cumae (see page 259), 
to which there is a road along the north of the lake, 
past Arco Felice. The Grotto is not worth visiting, 
especially by ladies. 

Around Lake Avernus are remains of ancient 
Balhs^ called the Stufe di Tritoli, one being 
a large eight-sided brick building, with niches 
in it. And in this quarter are the famous 
Bagni di Nerone (Baths of Nero), hot sulphur 
springs in a cave, at a temi>erature of 182*, suffi- 
cient to boil an egg, and good for rheumatism, in 
the Sorm of vapour baths. - Martial asks, "Quid 
JVero//0 pcjns? Quid ^Aermis meJius Neronianisf" 
^Ae rata Iforg-aua is said to be visible here in 



Turning into the little Bay of Baia the road, 
cut along the face of the cliffs, passes the deserted 
walls, foundations, and other remains of Roman 
Villas; many of them built for want of space right 
into the sea, where their buttresses may be still 
seen. Some are called after Caesar, Cato, Pompey, 
Sylla, Hadrian, Nero, and other names, real or 
fanciful. The young Mai-cellus, who was to have 
succeeded Augustus, died here of water on the 
chest. Also several ruined Baths called temples; 
as the Temple of Diana, a hexagon structure; the 
Temple of Mercury (or Troglio), a cracked build- 
ing, with an echo inside the domed rotunda, which 
is 70 feet diameter; and the Temple of Venus, an 
eight-sided structure, the most perfect of all. It 
is circular inside, about 90 feet diameter, and 
ornamented with stucco reliefs. At most of these 
a fee is asked. 

Bal8B, with a modem castle built by Pedro de 
Toledo, was once the favourite watering-place of 
the Romans, overlooking a bay and prospect which 
are as beautiful as when Horace celebrated it — 
"Nullus in orbe nnus Baits prselucet amoenis." It 
was also notorious for its dissipation and bad 
morals. A woman, it was said, came to it a chaste 
Penelope, and went away a Helen. Here the 
Romans found a soft climate, sheltered from the 
cold winds, but open to sea breezes, with a smooth 
sea, delightful views, and hot springs in abundance. 
The site is now covered with vineyards, stag- 
nant pools, and a few farms. The sea has here 
encroached on the land. In this quarter are the 

Elysian Fields, a cemetery covered with some 
low hills, excavated with chambers for the dead, 
20 feet square, with recesses for urns. Lake 
Fusaro, the ancient Achertisia is at the back of 
these. It is the crater of a volcano, and was the 
old port to Cumse. It contains an island, with a 
Casino for eathig oysters here, as the Romans once 
did. A short canal to the Tyrrhenian Sea outside 
is called Foce del Fusaro. On the Scalandrone 
Hill, on its north-east side, is the V^Ia Cumana of 
Cicero, in which he received the young Augustus. 

The road to Cape Misenum passes Bacoli, the 
ancient Bavli, a miserable village, near the 
reraabis of the Villa of Hortensins. with its fish- 
ponds; and Caesar's Villa, which Augustus gave 
to Octavia, parts of which are called Cento 
Camerclle (Hmidred Chambers), built for the 
soldiers on guard, the Labyrinth, and Career! 
di Nerone (Nero's Prisons), who resided here, when 
he tried to drown his mother, Agrippina. The 
view from here is remarkably fine. Further on is 
a theatre called the Sepulchre of Agrippina,tfRrho 
was buried somewhere near this part. 

The *Piscina Mirabilis, on the hill above, is a 
massive reservoir for the fresh water which was 
brought by the Julian Aqueduct (50 miles long) 
for the use of the Roman fleet at Misenum. "On 
descending a flight of steps, we found, ourselvcs^n 
what might be termed a large subtenymean catMf- 
dral, about 230 feet long, 80 feet broad, and very 
lofty; the massive roof supported by forty-eight 
large crucUoroi co\\3imtk.%,Vciryw*Qt twelve. Above, 



Boute 35.] 



BAIiE, CUM^, CAPBI ISLAND. 



259 



are openings for ventilation, or for drawing up the 
water. It is now perfectly dry, and looks solid 
enongh to remain entire for more eentories than it 
has already existed." — (Miss Catlow.) The Villa 
of Cornelia, the mother of the Gracchi, was near 
the Pmita di Pennata, at the north comer of the 

Harbour of Misenum.—T\\is ancient Roman navaJ 
station, constructed by Agrippa, was composed 
of three basins, tlie iimer one being the Mare 
Morto, the crater of an extinct volcano, to which 
the Campi Elisii, or Elysian Fields above men- 
tioned, extended. The walks are covered with 
cypresses, poplars, mulberries, festooned with vines. 
Pliny the Elder was in command of the fleet here 
when he started across the bay to witness the 
eruption of Vesuvius, and met his death, a.d. 79. 
It is now a solitude. To the south is the promontory 
of Misenum, ending in a high cliff, 5 miles from 
the Punta di Posilipo, and 3 miles from the Island 
of Procida. It is so called from Miscnus, the 
■ trumpeter of iEneas, who was buried here: or, as 
some say, on Monte Procida, a hill looking to- 
wards that island, which is covered with ruins of 
villas and tombs. See Virgil's ^ncid, book vi. 

Here Tiberius, on his return to Capri, died in a 
villa which belonged to LucuUus and C. Marius. 
Another villa was the residence of Cornelia, the 
mother of the Gracchi. Here, too, Madame de 
StaSl places her " Corinne." The whole promon- 
tory is called Miliscola, from Militis Schola, because 
the sailors or soldiers of the fleet used to exercise 
here. The prospect is a lovely one all round. This 
bay abounds with the hippocampus^ here called 
cavalli-marini^ which some one translated '^ horse 
marines." 

From Pozzuoli to Cuma, 6 miles, by the old Via 
Cumana. It passes under Monte Barbara and by 
the Arco Felice, to the north of Lake Avemus; a 
brick arch, which served both for the road and 
also for the aqueduct to Misenum. Beyond this is 
the Grotta della Pace, a lioman tunnel. 

The railway from Naples to Pozzuoli was 
continued in 1890 to Areo Felice, Lago Lucrino, 
Baio;, Cuma-Fusaro, and Torregaveta. 

CumSd, founded by the Greeks on the Phle- 
grxean Field, close to the sea, on the Via Domltiana, 
which runs along the coast. It was the mother 
of old Naples. Aristodemus, the Lacedaemonian, 
here gave shelter to Tarquinius Supcrbus, when 
diiven from Rome; the same to whom the Sibylline 
books had been offered. Nero's favourite, Petro- 
uiuH, died here, by bleeding himself to death. 

It had gone to decay in Juvcnftl's time, was 
ruined by the Saracens, and was finally depopu- 
lated in 1207, when it had become a mere nest of 
pirates. Its site is an undulathig piece of trachyte 
rock, called Rocca di Cuma, now covered with 
vineyards, the summit of which was the Acropolis. 
Here are the remahis of the huge walls, and mar- 
bles with Greek inscriptions; and of a Doric Temple 
of Apollo. It commands a view of the sea and the 
cultivated plain around, strewed with rnins. Un^ 
deineath it was the celebrated *SibyV9 C(tve^ one of 



the subterranean passages blocked up by Narses, 
when .he besieged Cumie. At a farm, called the 
House of the Sibyl, are some baths, now used as a 
winepress. Among the other antiquities are parts 
of an Amphitheatre; a Temple of the Giants, so 
called from some colossal statues found in it; a 
Temple of Diana, or a Basilica, discovered in 1853; 
and a Necropolis, from which some ancient urns 
have been extracted. 

The Domitian road follows the coast past Lake 
Licola, to Patria and its lake, the site of Litemvm^ 
where Scipio Africanus died in voluntary exile, 
with this epitaph over his grave : — " Ingrata Patria, 
ne ossa quidem mea habes." 

NAPLES TO THE ISLANDS. 

Procida is 14 miles distant; Ischia, 18 miles; 
Vivara, 16 miles ; Capri, 19 miles. Steamers run 
daily from the Immacolatella at Naples ; enquiry 
should be made at the hotel. The visit may bo 
made, on certain days, in one day, by steamer 
leaving the steps of Santa Lucia (at Naples) early 
in the morning. This, however, is not a good way 
of seeing the island, unless time does not allow a 
stay of two or three days. 

Capri (population, 5,000). It is 5 miles from 
Massa, 9 from Sorrento, 16 from Ischia, and 19 
from Naples ; and is remarkable for its picturesque 
scenery and salubrious air. It commands a nne 
prospect of the bay from seaward. There is no 
trace of volcanic formation in this island, and to 
this fact is attributed by many the healthiness of 
the climate, and the superiority of its vegetable 
productions, the oil, wine, and the other produce 
of Capri being regarded as the finest in the king- 
dom. Perhaps there is no spot in this neighbour- 
hood so little known, yet so well adapted to the 
English taste. Here a sportsman will find abun- 
dance of quails and woodcoclcs twice in the year, 
and excellent fishing at all times — the artist, the 
boldest and most magnificent marine and rocky 
scenery — the antiquary, ruins of Roman grandeur 
— and the economist cheap and excellent living. 

Amongst the natural curiosities of the island 
should be mentioned the Blue Grotto, the Green 
Grotto, and one recently discovered; but the lover 
of splendid scenery should never leave this island 
without spending a day on the heights. To its 
other attractions may be added the peculiar 
character of the air, which is singularly well suited 
to cases of bronchitis, where the sotmdness of the 
Imigs can be guaranteed. 

Capri, or "Crapi," as the people call it, is due 
south of Naples, and 8 miles west of Cape Campa- 
nella, on the mainland, as you turn into the south- 
ern comer of the bay. It is the ancient Caprete, 
so called from its wild goats, and has a very 
uneven surface of limestone rocks. It is 8 or 9 
miles in circuit. From a distance two humps ai» 
seen rising up; the highest of which, Monte SoI«.k<&^ 
in the middle of the l&las^ V^'VijiR^ VjtX ^fiocs^^NSoA. 
\ ft«a \ «aa \^<%V9i^^ Qftfe «M^» *!«.^^^wses»ss^ ^^^^ 



■KADaHAW*! ITALV. 



whil* On Ilttia town of C*i>i li In tba buln 
bfltwcn- To Ihtwenof Solut) li thevlIUfs of 

CilPU.Ihet:apiliL PapoJilion, 3.000. 



lo llglit- Tie I . , ...„ 

Inminr tDw«rd< (he cntruic* (fa& dajUj^ht «C4q 
llimiiBli II iMiiii brighi orings, and bj moting 



h witb whin wall 



unoiJIr vUlt 






o Scjanin, ILved In glooiuj- rotlroinail 


PrOoldA, halt-way beiweHi Cape Mlfmam and 




Iscbla (I uilla from each). Is the aodeiil Prixlitia. 
about S mils roimii. with a populatlm of JS,4TS, 


unaallonsof Twelve PaUcM, as they 




a latt. unJ*r the nanie of CanirreLlei 


Oreci: oilgbi. They droa In the Great alylo. 






swneaioH.8 wonblp of ULibra and 






say^ "Eiro veJ Prucliptam pr«p™o Snhur™,"— ha 


Ihe Salto rock, Tibeiiii\ It 1> aald. 


preferredlllolhe3abnrra.mgay atreet of Roma. 


1 his vicllais, after tortoring tbaiB. 


It N of Tokanle orlifln, like Ihe neiifhlwarbij land 


the waicr Ilka pyramldi, near iha 




ailed Firuicllunl. Beraral curloni 


Eatlollcv i. » filthy plao. on the Kaptei alda. 




netlcet aa the White OnXUK the 


From Ihe royal Ctulle. on Cape di Daeclola. at ttas 


™, Or«B. Orollo. b«l «i« laity the 


mmh-eiirt comer. Ihcro Is a ifood view of the la. 


rro, at Blue Urotto, ao called Iroin 


land, and over the chsnneli which aeparal* It from 






llSJfeellong. 11 U entctedeol.vbT 




" wll" T;^^ ^'■.^T'lT 'It Ihi'^nt" 


Klimd helenged to A*™ «/ Pyocid^ a phyalidan at 






lu'flal In'th. Cat. M«delSSin 


the Fr«ota bi Blcily. at Ihe "Sicilian Vaapcn." en 




Eaater Tuesday. »l>th March, 128i, In tcnnge (or 






a. but brokm and .Uioiiicd by Ihe 


laland of Vivian li cloae to the aouth-wett'eomer 


and the.ce It la that anch naalcal 




The whula of iha high nickt are .Ity- 




iiii.thel»ll1ght,™mbl]nstheh;. 




yet every mjokanddeplhlsdltllnttly 


r£''S^1-.'FSl''''':5''?';' 



brilliantly lUa.Hlniled Oy the light of the sea. so 
mat the dark skiff gllriei over a bright shlnini 

plainly dlaeeni all that' la gobig dawn under Ihe 
aarfaee uf Ihe water, while the whole dejithi ol (he 
aea. wllb lla bvlng erentures are dlKloged. Yon 

Che tMK\ and. far below, Sshes ordKraroit tpeclei 
'fffv/Z^daBd awlmmlng paat each other- The rocha 
**auif iir^Kr to eolinr n th»j p> lawtt Ints ch* 
'^f'^iliirniaiUiat»t It tilt tna eta* irtMM. 



ough there li a BKud 

ost haaotlfnl of tht 
mil a) from 



I «t 14« Neata EposiM niiEa, wlileh lui 
1 <nMi b dUfarm* pan* A It, tOrmariv 



fioatf d6,] 



^ftOOlDA, tS6UlA, OASUttA. 



Hi 



UtTa. S miles longt to the tea ob the east side, 
ibaUhg great hairo6. Ifonte Epemeo naav be 
fasiljr ascended frolh Serrara, Fototanaf Foria, 
Casamicciola. and other villages at the base; and 
has a niafmificent prospect over land and sea. of 
upward^ of 40 mlleR every way, from the Hermitage 
of St. Nicholas Vineyards run up almost to the tt p. 

The island abounds in picture^^que sites, hills, 
green dales, and panoramic views; It has a fine 
eilmate; it produces excellent fruit, wine. ch&*'t- 
nuts, clay for pottery, &c. Every cleft is culti- 
Tatcd, and the hills are crowded with laurels, 
myrtles, arborvits. and broom, and it is especially 
rich in valuable mineral springs. The donkeys are 

g)od and safe for riding. The people, says Miss 
remer, slur their words In a lazv wav—saying 
*' Yor," for Signor; "Napo," for JVffpo/i;*"monio," 
for momento; ''lu," iorlume; and so on. Popula- 
tion, 20,000. 

The distances are as follow, from Ischia round 
the island: — 

Miles. Miles. 

Bagno d*Ischia 1 Pansa 8 

Casamicciola 2 Serrara (pop., 1,789) 2 

Lacco 1 Barano (pop., 3,506) 1| 

Foria < 2 Ischia (again) 8 

Tschia, the chief town (population, 7,000), at the 
north-east comer, on the Strait of Ischia, is a 
bishop's see, with a small cathedral and a castle 
on a tall basalt rock, over the sea, built by Alphonso 
I., who, in a right royal way, drove the men of 
this island away and married their wives and 
daughters to his soldiers. This rock, called ^egrone, 
is joined to the town by a long bridge. 

It has a beautiful view of Monte Fpomeo and 
the villages and white villas, Foria, Fontana, Ac, 
on its slopes, buried among cacti, palm trees, and 
lava blocks. The road from hence to the baths 

g asses the old lava bed, at Campo del Arso, and 
etween some volcanic peaks, cue of which has a 
lake hi its cratej- 

Casamicciola, mider the north side of Epomeo. 
Here were the best mineral Baths in the island, 
under the names of Gurgitello, Cappone, &c., so 
hot as to run from 140* nearly up to boiling point. 
They were taken from May to September, and are 
excellent in paralysis, gout, rheumatism, scrofula, 
old wounds, &c. 

Several Hotels are scattered about; Grande 
Sentlnella, Des Etrnngers, Plthecusa, Bellevue, 
&c.; most of them commanding prospects of the 
Bay, Vesuvius, the Island^ of Procida, Capri, &c., 
as well ais of Gaeta, and more distant points. 
Here the bc-t clay for the island pott«i*y is found. 
6arll)aldl, when taking the waters in I8G4, stopped 
at Hotel Bellevue, then kept by Zavotta, who was 
Byron's courier. An oaithquuku ui March, 1881, 
work«'d trrcat d image here ami madf thrce-f c»U' ths 
of the people hou^eless In July. 1888, the town 
was again utterly wrecked, and it is being only 
•lowly rebuilt. The Batli« at BelliasBxi are now 



Foria hat a good trade, and Uka •tli«r plMcs 
here possesses mineral ftprlnjjte. . . 

Several ancietit bas-reliefs and i&Mrli^lOlU. Mifah 
bratlng the benefits of the waters, have been fotiia 
In different parts of the island. The tall elitfs on 
the south side abound with sea birds; and coral is 
raked up from the sea. A Boat Trip of ^ or 9 hotrrt 
round the coa^^t gives a fine series of views of the 
island in every possible aspt-ct. Vlttorla Coloraia^ 
Marchioness of Pescara, and the friend of Michael 
Aiigelo, spent several years of her life in Isc^a, 
at the castle of InarUie. It is about hotira* 
l)oatingto Sorrento. 

I^OTJTB QB—Continued. 
Naples to Foggla— by rail, t14 ATerga» 
Caserta, Beneyento, and Ariano ; or by 
rail and road, yi& Kola, Montfort, Avel- 
llno, and Ariano. 

1st. By direct rail to Averse, Caserta, Benevento, 
Ac. in 5 to 8 hours. 
The stations are as follow: — 



Miles 

Casoria 6i 

Fratta Grumo 8| 

S. Antlmo 10 

Aversa 12^ 

Marcianise 18 

Caserta 22 

Maddaloni 26^ 

VallcdlMaddaloni.. 30 

Frasso-Dugenta 38f 

Amorosi 38 

Tclese 40^ 

Solopaca 48^ 

8. Lor. Magglore ... 4>^ 
Casaldnnl-Ponte ... 61 i 



Miles. 

Vltulano 601 

Benevento i 60^ 

Ponte ValeHthio ... 64| 

Aplce 68| 

Buonalbergo 74| 

Montecalvo 77| 

Ariano 86 

Savlgnano-Greci ... 91i 

Montag^uto 96 

Bovlno K»8 

Glardinetto 107| 

Cervaro 118| 

[Branch to Candela.l 
Foggia 1231 



Naples (Stat.), see page 286. Hence, from the 
central tennhms, the line strikes through the 
fertile Terra di Lavoro, near the high-road toward* 
Capua, past the Stations of CaSOria, FrattA' 

Onuno, and s. Antlmo, to 

Aversa (Stat.), near a Norman town of the 
eleventh century, noted for its sharp Asprino 
wine and almond cake. Pass 

Marcianise (Stat.) to 

Caserta (Stat.) and the royal palace, on the 
main line from Rome to Naples (Route 32). Thence, 
with a steady ascent, through tunnels, to 

Maddaloni (Stat.), pop. i8,roo, where the 
Foggia line turns off, towards the Volturno, passing 

Valle di Maddaloni (Stat.), near the great 
modem three-storey aqueduct, which supplies the 
waterworks at tho palace, with water from Monte 
Taliurno. 

Frasso-Du^enta (Stat.), on the iscicro; to 
the south are Mcjano and Forchia Arpaja, near the 
eelebrated Furem Caudinte, or Caudine Forks, the 
paae where the Romoas 8Qffiii:«14a&%!»$«%«)^^«wai^^'> 



^6i 



6)tAI>8HlW*S ITALY. 



[Section 3. 



TtieM (Stat.), near a sulphurous lake, the site 
of the Samnite town of Teletia. . Here are mineral 
springs and a bath establishment. 

Solopaoa (Stat.), under Monte Tabumo, on 
the Calore. Then 

8. LorexiZO Maggiore (Stat.), near a tunnel 
In the hills. 

Casaldimi-Ponte (Stat.), on the Calore, under 
the Torrecuso Hills. 

Vltlllano (Stat.), between two tunnels. 

BeneventO (Stat.), the site of Beneventum, on 
the Via Appia, at the junction of the Calore and Sab- 
halo, was the chief town of the Samnites, who called 
it Maleventum, on account of the winds which blew 
here. The Romans beat them in B.C. 268, after the 
disgrace at the Caudine Forks, and changed the 
name to the more propitious form of Beneventum. 
It is a bishop's see, with a population of 18,000. It 
was a Lombard Duchy, which in 1053 was ceded to 
the Pope, though entirely surrounded by Neapolitan 
territory; which Napoleon in 1806 turned into a 
principality, for that pious son of the church, Tal- 
leyrand, ci-devant bishop of Autun. Near this, in 
1265, Charles of Anjou defeated Manfred, and 
decided the fate of the house of Suabia. Here 
Pyrrhus was defeated by Curius Dentatus B.C. 275. 

The Ceutle, built in the twelfth century by Pope 
John XVII., has a fine obelisk, with some in- 
scriptions, Ac, in the court. A bridge, by 
Vanvitelli, crosses the Calore, near the remains of 
a Roman work. The large old Gothic Cathedral has 
a bronze door of the twelfth century, and sixty- 
four fluted columns from a Temple of Isis, of which 
it occupies the site. In front of it is an Egyptian 
obelisk. The Churches of Santa Sofia and San- 
tUHma Annunziata contain some ancient pillars. 
Theformer is eight-sided; and in the cloisters is 
a well, the top of which is part of an Ionic capital 
cut through. It front of it is an obelisk. 

Among other remains of Roman antiquity is the 
Porta Aurea, or Porta Romana, a well-preserved 
Triumphal Arch of Parian marble, dedicated to 
Trajan, on the Puglia road, 113 a.d.; adorned with 
alto-reliefs referring to his exploits on the Danube. 
It has four columns on each face, and wants only 
part of the cornice. Statue of Apis, in an open 
space. Ancient Bridge over the Sabato, and brick 
Thermse. There are also traces of an Amphi- 
theatre at the Grottone di Mappa. 

There is a line from Benevento to Termoli, 106f 
miles, see page 234. 

There is also a line from Benevento to Avelllno, 
see below. 

Leaving here, the line passes Ponte Valentino 
(Stat.) and Aplce (Stat.), on the Calore. Then 

Buonalbergo (Stat.) and Montecalvo (Stat.). 

near a tunnel, and so called from a white-topped 
ridge overlooking it. Several tunnels through the 
watershed between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the 
Adriatic. 

AjtUuio {Stat,), a bisbop*s see (population, 
ji^^^^f ^^ * steep blllt commanding the pass over 
^ff./^Pfa/'ines into Pnglla; with the remains of a 
^"^ifoJJt bjrtbe GreeksQt the Lower Empire for 



that purpose. It suffered by wars and the earth- 
quakes of 17S2, &c. The rocks here are tufa, 
containing beds of marine shells. Its late bishop, 
Monsignore Caputo, who died at Naples, in Sep- 
tember, 1862, was the president and head of the 
Societb, Ecclesiastica, for the protection of loyal 
priests against their bishops. 
The line now descends the Val di Bovino. 

Savlgnano-Oreci (Stat.), so called from 

Savignano, on the Cervaro (ancient Cerbaltu), and 
Greci, a colony of Albanian Greeks, settled here, 
still speaking their own language, as well as Italian, 
and using their own customs. MontagUtO 
(Stat.), the next, followed by Orsara and 
BOVlJlO (Stations), on a hill to the right, abovethe 
Cervaro, in the plains of Puglia. GlardlnettO 
(Stat.). A few miles from this is TVot/a, another 
Greek-built place, of the same age as Ariano, with 
a Romanesque Cathedral, built 1119, having bronze 
doors. Diligence from Giardinetto. H^ce past 

Cervaro (Stat.) to 

Foggla (Stat.), as in Route 34. 
At Cervars the line to Rocchetta-Melfi (see page 
263) runs off. 



2nd. To Foggla, by rail and road, vid Nola, 
Avellino, and Ariauo. 

Naples to Nola (see page 232), by rail, 21 miles. 
Then by road as follows: — 



Miles. 

Avellino .• 6 

Dentecane 18 



Miles. 

Grotto Minarda 27 

Ariano 88 



Kola (Stat.), as in Route 32. Here the earth- 
quake of December, 1857, was felt. From this the 
route passes near to 

Avella, on the left, the site of the Roman Abella^ 
which Virgil commends for its apples. It is still 
noted for its honey. Remains of an amphitheatre 
can be traced. Over the hills behind it, about 5 
miles distant, is Forchia d^Arpaja, the ancient 
Cavdium, near the celebrated defile of the Caudine 
ForkSy above mentioned, where the Roman army 
had to pass under the yoke after their defeat by 
Caius Pontius. 

Past Cardixaxe at the head of the Lag^ni, and 
up the hills to 

MoxTB FoRTB, and its old Castle of the Montforts, 
which guarded the pass here. This was the family 
of which our Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, 
was the head. Population, 4,465. 

Mebcogliano (population. 3,219), under a hill in 
the Apennines, crowned by the Benedictine Sanc- 
tuary of Monte Vergine, founded 1119, on the site of 
a Temple of Cv'bele. 

Ayellino (Stat.), now accessible by rail, via 
Nola and Samo (Route 32), is near the ancient 
Abellinum, on the Sabatw, now Sabbato, under the 
Apennines; celebrated for the "nux avellana," or 
filbert nut, still grown about here. It is the capi- 
tal of Principate Ulteriore, and a bisbop^s see 
(population, 15,000). The Piazza Pubblica is 
suTTOUXvded \>y tl\e Town Hall, Obelisk, Clock 
ToYreTf «aOl Cuulom "GLquv^^ Vol^ Ivkgl^ of wbich 



ro«d tnmi off towardf Luke Amsnnctu 
Dehticihe ((J., dog'i tectli), a tl 
moonUlni. From this It la lOor 12m 
vonto (norlh-wem, ■■ abare). ind as i 
■ulphnr UksorHoflll ar AmBonctua 

Tico, or 7ittiaa,or JViifciim (popula 
■moDg th« hills. Theii our road cnni 
uid windi DP to Arlono (Stat.), pag< 
KOXTTE Se. 
RaplM to Eboll, HvTo, Helfl, i 

dhUncci by road are noarly' a> foil 



10 ml1«^ from 



EbOll (Btat.), (> ia Rontcs 
neil piace It 

OuViTO (popnlation, 3,030), i 
htiaJil. CrOMlheHelBatPALO; 

Viivo (populatlnn, 1.18*); »nd 



n<lhassFaitle(R>larcd)lnUieNonnaualyle, Willi 



B Oram 



ircd), hilf-ralnwl bj- 



lad JtiiiifD df JTi^, 
AuJMut o[ llonce, 



"Ba^'lltu!^Hem (Stat.), o^dC^Sla^Btat.) 
ABCOll(Stftt.),ppnlollonfl,H»,lheold AKHhim 
ipu/am, menlionrd In the wars wttli Pyrrhn), mid 
90 cnlled (0 dlitlngulih it from Asi^uluni riccnmn. 
In IhP March of Aiieona. Acrosmbe gwal l^ain 

of Pugin u OrdoiUL and cervaTO, for 

Foggla <Btat.), na in Route U. 

HOtJTB 87. 

NapleE to Etwll, Potenza, and Kataponto, 

forTatanto. thmca to Bail 

Bj rail, ptat Eboll, lo Contnrtl. Bleleniino, Bno- 
cino, Romagnano, Balvano, UarBglano. Plcenio, 
Tiio, and Potenia (fco page S64), 63 Bilici from 

lule, rettandlna, piatlQcl, Bemalda (page M8), 
toHetapontO, lll mlleBtram £bali (pago 2eS), 



populallon. 1,813) 



BlJiii.li (popnJ alien, 
VenOM (popolatlon. 



Sits 



Pohbli™. 

AdriaHc 
round. Bi 
by aubt, 



-eilbig Jenlah CaUcoiDbt. 



From Blcignano there la a brMch of MJ mile* 
SauaHD-TBElano, irhleb win be Fonllnntd in 

8.8.W. dlrccllon through LagonoSTO to the 
ea coBit at Casiiurncco thnice to Qloia TanM, 
o Join lie projected Una along Uic top of the inUiy 



Bncdno (Stat.), &e., m above i b 



Gboll; S fiwoaw) 



fe4 



fiSjLl>gHAlr'i tTALT. 



|[S6Ctt0li o« 



tb« ttMlMtt IWm^, dowingt^iifb* Volcanic 
ifU, noted for its nuumlu H«r« iM road fo 
Calabria pattl ofTbr th4 Via A<]iiilla, throufrh the 
Val dl Diano. See page 269. The next place Is 

ViBTSi Di PoTEXZA (population, 3,673), in the 
Basilicata. Overa ridge of the Apennines, down to 

Poteiua(Stat.),the ancient Potentia (population, 
17,978), capital of the old Basilicata: so called 
after the Emperor, Basilius II., who reconqncred it 
from the Saracens and Lombards, in the eleventh 
century. It is a backward and thinly peopled 
district, sloping towards the Gulf of Taranto. 

Potenza is pleasantly seated under Monte 
Acuto. among the hills, and has a cathedra], 
college, law courts, hospital, palaces, Ac, most 
of which were half-ruined by the earthquake of 
Decem1)er, 1857. Several Roman inscriptions have 
been found at this place, which was an important 
town in Lucania. A Roman way Went north to 
Opinum inoyr OppiDo)and FentMium, the birth-place 
of Horace (nee Route 86); and a mountain road 
strikes east across the province toTricarico. Matcra, 
and Taranto ; but our road follows VAOLin, Tolve, 
Ac., through a succession of hills and ravines, to 

MoNTEFBLOSO, Under Mons Pelonu, a walled town 
and bishop*8 see ; pop., 5,909. The next place is 

Gravika. on the River Gravina. in the province 
of Bari, a fertile and populous district compared 
with that we have left behind. Population, 10,860. 
This is a bishop's see, at the foot of a hill, and 
was a fief of the Dukes of Gravina. of the family 
of Orsinl. Gravina, a historian of the seventeenth 
century, was of this family. 

[From Gravina a road runs to Mates a (20 miles) ; 
an archbishop's fee, with a population of 14,398, on 
the Bradano, near the Via Appia. Its fine Roman- 
eaque Cathedral^ built about 1000, is 180 feet by 
80, and has a rich south front, with doorways and 
windows supported by monsters, as usual in many 
Apulian churches. The campanile is 175 feet high. 
Then comes Caf tellaneta (Stat.). 22 miles 
further (population, 6,904), a bishop's see; and 
Taranto (Stat.), 2 j miles, on the Gulf of Taranto 
(Route 3I>).] 

Leaving GsAYnfA for Babi, the road ascends 
towards 

ALTAKUftA, a well-built town and bishop's see, 
nnder the Apennines, on a hill overlooking a fine 
pasture country. It was founded by Frederick II., 
who built the handsome cathedral and castle, out 
of the ruins of Lupatia, which stood near the head 
of the Lieto and the Via Appia. Population, 
16,332. There is a university here. 

From hence to Gioja (Route 39) is 23 miles, 
tinder the mountains. 

For Bari, the road winds over the Apennines, to 

ToBRiTO, GrumO, ftnd BilettO, stations on the 

Taranto-Bari railway. Bietto is a bishop's see 

/jjopnlatlon^ fi«885), in a fertile plain; with a cathe- 

^»A containing^ $ome good pi^XkDxifs^. Thence past 

^fooirejro, to 

**«J (ptAt), the chief town of th« prorincc, 
'-^dr/Mtic. 0eepnge2M. 



Poggla to OerlgBola (for Oandsa tti4 OsB" 
n»), Tranl, Bari (ftor taranto), Ostiinl, 
BrlndlBl, Leooe, QaUipoli, and Otranto. 

By rail, as follows : — 

Miles 

Cerignola 22 

narletta 42^ 

Trani 50i 

Molfetta 61 

Giovinazzo 65| 

Bari 77 

Noicataro 94} 

Mola di Bari 98| 

Monopoli 102| 

Fasano 110| 



Miles. 

Ostuni 128 

S. Vito d' Otranto... 1881 

Brindisi 146} 

S. Pietro-Vemotioo. 167 

Squinzano 181} 

Trepuzzi 163| 

Lecce 170 

Zorino 182 

Maglle 188 

Otranto 199} 

Foggia (Stat.), as hi Route 34. The Ihie then 
runs across the *'Png1Ia plana," or flat plnin of 
Puelia, watered by the livers CJenrnro and C!aro- 
pella. and then between the Ofanto and the p*^ti- 
lentlal nnlt lake of Salpi. which spreads over a dead 
flat of 20 square miles, and is only 2 feet deep. 

Cerignola (Stat.), a bishop's see, at the 
centre of six roads, the site of CerentnUia. on a hill 
overlooking the plain. Population, 22,660. It 
suffered greatly from the earthqoake of 1780. A 
milestone in the tovm, of the time of Trajan, stands 
on the Roman way which passed through to Bari. 
Near this, Gonzalo de Cordova, the Great Captaia, 
defeated the French in 1508, in a battle which 
brought Naples under Spanish dominion. 

The line now crosses the Ofanto by a bridge, near 
its mouth, to Bar let ta; but the load vid Canosa, 
though a few miles longer, may be taken, as it 
passes the Field of Cannte. 

[Passing Ponte di Canosa, on the Ofanto (ancient 
Aufidus\ wc reach 

Cavosa, a bishop's see (population, 18.274), in 
the province of Bari. and the andent Ointufttm, 
whose hihabitants Horace, In his journey along 
this road, styles "bilingucs," because they ft|)i>ke 
Greek as well as Latin, showing their extraetliiB. 
He calls their bread 'iapidosus," or gritty; as.it 
still is,8risin? from the slovenlv way in which the 
com is threshed and ground. After the disastrous 
battle of Gannie, the survivors, including Sclpio 
Africanns, then a young tribune, took refuge here; 
and the city was placed under his command. 
Some of the leaders in despair r*ebated about 
leaving Italy, when Scipio drew his sword and 
threatened to kill those who would not swenr not 
to desert their country. Gannsiura leceived the 
Romans with so much kindfcss, that it was after- 
wards greatly favoured by them, and came to be a 
large and prosper<>us place; but it was alOK'tt 
ruined by the Q-tht and Saracens. There are 
remains of a Roman Gateway and ami^itlieatr*; 
with & feudal Castle; and many aneient rasea hare 
bMu t<ranil V& \^% «^\it«cT«iL«aB tomba aboat tlw 
town. Th« o\^ C».\^<t4cn\ «(»L\A>aEA It^icmtnU 4tf 



Hottte 98.] 



C1.K08A, OAHKJI, BABLSTTA, TBANI, BABI. 



MS 



lUman tmlldlogs; With t&e ioakh Of Robert 
OuUcflriri ton, Bo&emiiiid, Prihod of Antioeh. 
R it sqiiflre. With «miill brnzM doors and an 
liight-slded cupola. The sheep were notefl for the 
finenesH of their wool; and a dark red cloth, called 
"CanttJ'itla," was manufactured here. 

From CanosA, about h ilf-wny down the Ofanto, 
is the 8ite of the village of 

CannSB, destroyed by Robert Ruiscard, in 1083, 
and celebrated for the Battle fought in its neigh- 
bourhood, B.C. 216, when Ha< nibal and his 50,000 
defeated the Roman armj with tremendous slaugh- 
ter; only 8,50uout of 86,||('0e^cap1^gT,u Caiiusium. 
There is some dispute as to the exact site. The 
historians say thnt both arr Ics wore at first on the 
south side of the Aufldtts, which they crossed, 
Hannibal following the Romans. When drawn up 
for battle, the Romnns looked to the south, with 
their ri;:ht, "flumini proprius." touching the river; 
while the Carthaginians looked to ihe north. A 
dry south-east wind, called Vu^tumw, the same 
as the Sirocco, blew the du^t In the faces of the 
Romans. This description seems to fix the real 
site of the battle on the north si 'e of the Ofanto, 
where a f^ezzo di Sangtte, or "field of blood" is 
still pointed out. It is said that Hannibal crossed 
a lirook, called the Vergellus^ over ttie dead bodies 
of the Romans. 

Hence the road runs down to Barletta, on the 
Adriatic] 

Barlexta (Stat.), the ancient BarduHum, and 
a bishop*s i>ee (population, 34,000); one of the 
many large and prosperous towns a!ong the strip 
of fertile Irtnd between the sea aiid the Apennines, 
called the Marina, in the Puglia Pietrosa, or Stony 
Puglia. Barletta has a small port and dockyard, 
and Carries on a coasting trade. It hns a good 
cathedial, several churches, theatre, &c., and a 
bronze statue of t^'e Emperor Herac'ius. 14 feet 
high. The old Castle was the head-quarters of 
Gonsalvo da Cordova, before the battle of 1508; 
When a Disfida or Tournament lietween thirteen 
Frenchmen and thirteen Italians, sanctioned by the 
respective commanders, took olace, a little distance 
up the country, between Andrio and Cornto, which 
i4 the subject of Massimo d'Azeglio^s historical 
romance, '*Ettore Fieramosca," the name of one of 
the Italian knights. Bayard was present, as father 
or second of the French knights. The bait e was 
a dra«n one. A monument is erected on the spot 
Statue of Azeglio here. Steam tramway to Bari 
passing through Andria (population 37,000), Ruvo, 
and Bitonto. Interesting remains at each of these 
places, j-ee below. 

Tranl (Stat.), the ancient Tirsnvm^ or Ti'ojan- 
opolis, restored by Trajan; a well-built town 
(nopulation, 25,173), with .a tmp cathedral, a large 
old castle, theatre Ac. The Cathedral ix a large 
Romanesque b»ilding. with a tall campanile of 
•even storeys, surmounted by an octagon and spire; 
and has in the entrance remarkably han<l8onie 
hronxeddoor8(1160)of beautiful design. Through its 
imall port Tranl carries on a trade in oil, almonds, 
Ac otTeral Roman mileiitdiies are to be leeik \ 



BlMMUe (8tal), <» yi9ili*i JW^KtaliMI tl,TM, 
on a roek, with a small port, noted for its winet 

and raisins. 

Molfetta (Stat.), a bishop's see (population, 
29,700), and port. There are manufactories of linen 
and nitre. At Pulo, near this, is a sm:ill mioe of 
saltpetre, about 90 feet deep. The c<»nntry round 
here is covered with vines, olives, iilmond trees, 
<kc. A few nii'es up the count y i^ Ruvo, or jR«M, 
on the inliind Roman wa> from Canusium. 

GiOVlnaZZO (S(at.)i popu'ati«>n, 9,075, the 
ancient Juvenatium, has an old castle, and A 
Foundling Hospital for children, who are brought 
up <"or trades. At Bitonto (population, 22,726), 
5 miles to the right, is a fine Romanesque Cathedral^ 
richly ornamented, having round-headed door- 
ways and winduws, flanked by elephants and other 
monsters. 

The next place is 

BARI (Stat.) 

The ancient Barium, in Peucetia, on Via Apple, 
celebrated by Horace for its tish; now the capital of 
the province (pop. 6;^.000), and an archbishop's 
see, standing on a neck of land, and walled round. 
It was founded b}' the early Greeks, as Barton, and 
was in later times the seat of the Catapan of 
Apulia, under the Greek Emperors. In ]0<>7 it 
was taken by Robert Guiscard, after a four years' 
siege ; and after it had l>een occupied by the Lom- 
bards and Saracens. The streets ai-e narrow and 
old-fashioned. There is a fine ancient Castle. A 
new hariiour enclosed by two moles has lately 
been formed. It carries on a gro-wintr trade with 
Trieste and the opposite coast of Dalmatia. ifofe/— • 
Risorgimento. 

The Romanesque CaViedraJ of S. Sabino, rebuilt 
1171, has an east front with windows lietween 
pillars, resting on elephants, and is flanked by 
handsome towers, about 200 feet high. There is a 
small cupolaover the transept. Itcontainspaintings 
by Tintoretto (S. Roch), P.Veronese, and (Jalabrese. 
At the Priory of St. Nicholas, founded, 1098, by 
Duke Roger, of Apulia, is a large old Gothic 
Church (begun 1087), with three aisles, divided by 
elegant screens and arches, resting on coupled 
granite pillars. It has the tomb of Bona Sforza, 
Duchess of Bar! and Queen of Poland; and the 
crypt of the patron saint, who is held in great 
veneration here. The west front has a door flanked 
by elegant pillars resting on large monsters and 
two taller columns from some ancient buildiijg. 
In the east front U another Romanesque door with 
a canopied tomb. Urban II. held a council h«re, 
and it used to be chosen as the place for crowning 
the kings of Naples. The monks make CKqua 
ftomatira from herbs and spices, a pleasant cor- 
dial, taken after coffee. Piccini, the composer, 
was a native of Bari. 

Bari to Taranto by rail. (Route 39.) 

From liari, the lirindisi line follows the coa^t, 
formerly gilarded by towers on the Via figuatia, 
now converted into picturesque villas. 

Mola lU BarlCEWVN.xs«»sx«.'^w2^^>*5«»»'> 
a ibmX\ v«^ ^iiVObl *» '%«w«»«««^^'^^^^^*'^ 



4 



roUluauo (BtM.), near TtiniiAirtHai 

lbs Acqnsvjvs timfly, t. menibcr of whlc 

' V<mop011 (Btat.), DBsr Seapo/ti and J 
JTsto, ■ biihop'i Ke (popaLntlon. 13,1114), sn< 
bull! (own; vitbi St. Bibiullon, by PbJdi 
cblo. In tba Cathedril, deiidci lUlnai bf I 

Ths hlgS ro»d strike, n UtII* Inland j wb 

Xgnatia. or Qnatln. Uio lait ttage mentioi 
KoMM in til Journey. He foond ■ pTuit ■ 

tliilr laugb m tha jiretundcd mlriH^ 'ot i 



old CaMla which tx 
ihn. Hence It la a 
la, or Ibe heel o 
. Thli part orilnl 






It la but moderately hilly, jolhat Vtrgll.deKrtbIng 
It! drat eppearatiu from tbeiea.iaya. "hamiltm- 
gno Tldemna llaliamr It waa called Calabria. 
Heiiairia, Pncella. lapygla, and other namei; and 



ma i:an be uen, U "aa alao uaed bytha 
dera. It la abODt flo hoars from IiondoD. and 






■tripped of bark, 



f... 8, Too minrnto (BUI.) » II" X,S.VX iiS I™CI.S S. »K 





brlly. ■Irado In oil, flg>, wbaa 
m: Pacmliii, tbs tmglc poet. 


UoMi: Grand Hotel Oriunlal; do IXurope; 


Olel d'AnKletene. 


here Virgil died, on hii way ho 


JUMt^BrUiA Omtu) and ^mrtm 0««/. 


hi. flfty-aetond year, n.e. 1 




oa.riedwNaple.,wbereheba< 




Uph aaya, ■'Cn/ofa-irapuore, 
waa the local name of fbH eoi 


Alexandria, Venice and j^cona? Alio! the 



"r aii»l/mellJiaJ%>,Ooe. TJirSrecki colonla'ed 11 The line tumi Inlnni paat 8. PletTO, »c., to 
«._.... —t,,- .._ .. . _ ... „ _...,. i,«ca (8tftt.),»_nillea frmn the tea, which ll 



1 rind 111. 491 mile i, paun 
ria, and Latiano. 

a<( 8. Pletro, Ac, to 

tfUcce vofcttii.;, fl muca from the aea, which ll 
utl>BBLBii^eulBaaiuitM\an^ <i[ Lapta, nndlta 



Honte 39.] 



I^ASAKO, BRINDIgl, OTrANTO, OALUPOLI, TARAKTO. 



267 



bishop's see, and the seat of the governor and law 
courts of the province. Population, 21,745. It is 
ft well-built, cheerful town. Among the buildings 
worth notice are the Cathedral of S. Oronzio, 
Governor's Palace, Dominican convent, and the 
Castle, rebuilt by Charles V. In the market-place 
there is a statue of Philip II. The soft stone called 
pietra di Lecce, found in the neighbourhood, is used 
to make oil vases. Near Lecce is Rudiae, the birth- 
place of Ennius, the poet, the friend of Scipio 
Africanus. 

Four or five roads meet here ; that to Gallipoli 
(see below) is 26 miles long. That to Otranto 
passes Caliicara and Mastano, two settlements of 
Albanian Greeks. They still speak and dress like 
Greeks. 

The rail passes the stations of Zollino, Maglie, 
Ac, to 

Otranto (Stat.), the SLnclent Hydrunttim, which 
gives name to the province. It is an archbishop's see 
and was once a prosperous place, with a population 
of 20,000, till taken and pillaged by the Turks, in 
1480, when 12,000 were massacred. It has now 
only about 1,830 inhabitants. The small town 
stands on a point jutting into the sea, and con- 
tains an old Cathedral, with signs of the zodiac 
in it ; and a Castle built by Alphonso of Aragon, 
which figures in Horace Walpole's romance of 
the "Castle of Otranto." The harbour is small 
and indifferent. 

This is the nearest port of Italy to Corfu, which 
is about to miles distant. On a fine day the Acro- 
ceraunian Mountains may be seen across the 
Adriatic. 

Many of the farm-houses, or masserie, in this part 
of Italy, which were exposed to the Turkish rovers, 
are built in the style of the Peel towers in the north 
of England, in the middle of a strong walled en- 
closure, to which the cattle and everything valuable 
could be sent. It was in one of these masserie, near 
Francavilla, that the bandit priest, Ciro Annichia- 
rico, a leader of the Carbonari, styling themselves 
the "Salentine Republic," was, in 1816, taken by 
General Church, and executed with his followers. 

From Otranto it is about 25 miles to the extreme 
end of the peninsula, or heel of the boot. The road 
passes Castro, or Castrum Minervae, where there 
was a conspicuous Temple of Minerva; and Albs- 
SAXO or Alexanum, from which it is a few miles to 
the end, called Cape Santa Maria di Leuca, after 
the ancient town of Leuca, signifying "white," and 
BO called from the limestone cliffs. It forms the 
east comer of the Gulf of Taranto, marked by a 
convent and tower. It was the ancient Promon- 
torium lapygium^ or Salentinum, and is 80 miles from 
Cape Colonne, across the Bay of Taranto. ' From 
Zollino (above) a line, 21f miles long, runs to Gal- 
lipoli, past Galatone and NardO (population. 
10,971), among plantations of olives, tobacco, and 
cotton, near the ancient Neritum. 

QalUpoli, an ancient Greek port, called Call- 
poXUy on a rocky peninsula, in the Gulf of Taranto ; 
Joined to the mainland by a causeway. 

It it • bishop's see (population, 9,208), and once a 



great market for the oil, cotton, Ac., of the district, 
which are shipped , here, the oil being kept in 
cisterns hollowed in the rock Twa or three little 
islands face the pier harbour. Large numbers of 
tunny fish are caught here. To Taranto is 55 miles. 



Bar! to Taranto, Torremare. Cariatl, Cot- 
rone, Catanzaro, and Reggio; towards 
Sicily. 

By rail to Cotrone as follows : — 



Miles. 

Torre Cerchiara 146| 

Sibari 150| 

[Branch to Cosoiza]. 

Corigliano 152 

Rossano 165j^ 

Mirto Crosia 172{ 

Cariati 185| 

Crucoli 191} 

Strongoli 209 

Cotrone 219^ 

(For continuation of 
rail, see page 268). 

The only town 



Bari to Miles. 

Modugno 7 

Grumo 13f 

Acquaviva 25J 

Gioja deU'oUe 88f 

Castellaneta 43 

Palagiano 63f 

Taranto 72 

Metaponto 99^ 

[Branch towards 

Naples— Route 87.] 

Policoro 113 

Roseto 130i 

Barl (Stat.), as in Route 38. 
of any importtince is . 

Gioja del CoUe <!&XdX.) Population, 16,897. 

TajrailtO (Stat.) An archbishop's see (popu- 
lation, 34,000), In Magna Graecia, on the Cervaro, 
at the head of the Gulf of Taranto, on an island 
between a large land-locked bay called Mare 
Piccolo, and the sea outside it, called Mare 
Grande. This island, which was the necropolis of 
the Greek city, is joined to the mainland by a 
seven-arched bridge carrying part of the Aqueduct 
which brings water from a distance of 12 miles, 
and was constructed by the Greek emperors. The 
island was fortified with a Castle, &c., by Charles 
v., and contains the Duomo of S. Cataldo (an Irish 
Saint), with monument of Philip, Prince of Taranto, 
and his wife. Outside the island, towards the gulf, 
on the west, are the Islands of S. Pietro and 
S. Paolo, which serve as a breakwater to what 
is called the Mare Grande, or Outer Harbour, 
where vessels lie. The fort on St. Paul contains the 
grave of Laclos, author of "Liaisons Dangereuses.'* 
The Inner Harbour, or Mare Piccolo, though 10 
or 12 miles in circuit, is a lagoon nearly filled up. 
Here were obtained shell-fish yielding an excellent 
purple dye, and pinna marina, whose filaments were 
spun into gloves and stockings. Taranto is still 
noted for its oil and honey. The date palm is seen 
here. 

Museum in the market place, with noteworthy 
local antiquities, especially pottery. Remains of 
an amphitheatre. Villas Beaumont-Bonelli and 
Pepe in the neighbourhood, are worth Tisitin§f. 
Large naval Ar^enal and Docks. 

There are but slight traces of the temfdes, 
theatres, circus, and other buildings of the import 
tant old city of Tarenium^ or Tbf'cu, founded bY thA. 
Greeks^ on the uva.VtiX'Kfti^^Ksvsck «^ 5fic5gci\.*ws«!ic«si>»^ 



MS 



UMAD»BAM*§ VtkLt* 



lB%9iUm $4 



ridnabl* aaA mm of the nott d«Ugtatfiil pUeet 
in Magna Qrada, ai this part of Italy wat called. 
At the height of its uronperity it bad a popu- 
lation of 80'>,0('0, with an army and fleet, nnd 
thirteen dependent cities alonff the coast, imludinff 
Bcracl<'a. Ac; bat. frroHing laxurious and eff uii- 
nate. it in«-ulted the Koinnns. «bn declared war. 
The Tarentines called for the help of Pyrr><a t 
King of Lpirus; and thus, for the first time, say** 
Macaolny, "the two grreat nations of antiquity 
were fairly matched against each other. II i« 
expedition was a tumhig point in the world." It 
was nnnlly taken and plundered by the Romans, 
under Fabius Maxlnms. Archyta«>. the Pytha- 
gorean philosopher and mathematician of Plato*s 
time, was a native of Tarcntum. Parts of an 
aqueduct 20 mileii long remain. 

The Guf/of Taranto in nearly a square of 70 to 
80 miles Taranto gave name to a sf-Jdcr, who^e 
bite was ffiippofted to occasion the Tardntulu disease; 
whichi' after all. apiiears to be only a catching 
nervous complaint like St. Yitufl's dance. 

Between Taranto and Ifrindi^i, in the direction of 
"^ia Appia, are Casalxuova, or Manduria. which 
was taken by Fabius Maximus, and Krakca villa 
(population, 16.943), so called because it was made 
free of taxes for ten ytars,, by Philip, Prince oi 
Taranto. The latter is a station on the line from 
Brindisi. 

The rail from Taranto through Calabria is dull and 
uninteresting, except that port ion which licR by the 
•horeof the gulf, over the sites of some ancii-nt 
Lucanian cities, once ot note. The maritime tract 
through which it passes U now desolate and poorly 
eultivated. 

Between Taranto and Policoro, the line crosses 
the River liradano, or Bradanm, which divided 
Apulia and Lucania. and still Ferves as the border 
ofOtrantoand Basilicata. Between this and the 
BiverBa.<-ento.orCVutfef}/i/«,isMetapontO(StAt.), 
sear the site of the ancient city ot Metapontum, 
a very early Greek settlement, on a marshy plain, 
once rich in corn and other produce; so that 
a wheat-sheaf figures on the coins ot this city, 
which Hannibal made hishoad-quarterifor several 
winters. Pythagoras also lived here; and here 
Augustus and M. Antony had an interview. All 
that remains is part of a Doric Temple called Le 
Tacole Paladine.^ like that of Psestum, conHiFting 
of ten fluted limestone pilta>s in one row and five 
in the other. Between this and Ponte a Mare are 
the stones of another T« mi Ic, with pieces of 
pottery and bricks. The ruins of Metapontnm 
were u«ed to build B6nia.''da., now a station — 
popniation. 5,981— about 7 mile inland, on the line. 
towards Nai'Ie<< (page 2B3). There are s(mie anti- 

?iuitii«fi to be seen near the station of Metaponta, 
or which previous application must be made at 
Bern.ilda. 

TO'rexnare, near Mctaponto, and the River 

Baseut/>. n«w a mil* from the sea, was once close 

/» Jt, and takBS its name from a square tower, 

A«6^/ Ar tJj0 kings o/theAttJon line to guurd the 

^Mc^r TA0 btwneb nU /ram MMapouto AMcndi 



the Baaento, wi Banilda (im aboraX towaidi 
Potenza, Aa. (Ronta 17). Tbe Baaanto ia foMAbU 
in stmimer. M'tapohto it 190 mllet from EbolL 
From here to Sibari is AI miles, down the cnaitt. 

I'lie line truverftes plains of liquorice, past tha 
villages of 8. Tedoko. S. BaslliO (Stat.), and 
Torre ScanzanO, and the River Salnndrella 
(nncienl Aget/andrw). between which and the Agri 
(or AHrU) are Rome olive groves. 

Policoro 'Stat.), between tlie Agri and Sinno. 
Near here are some mounds where coin*-, pottery, 
statues. &c., have been found, on the ^ite of 
the ancient eity of lleraclea. an offshoot of Tnren* 
tum, where the deputies of the towns under its in- 
fluence used to meet. Between this and Pandotiei, a 
little way up the river. Pyrrhu", with hi« clei>luint8, 
obtained a hard-fought victor>' over the Romans 
under Consul I^aevinus; when it is said each army 
made seven attacks on the other. Pyrrhus iiaia 
snch another victory would be a defeat for him. 
Farther inland, on the hills, the two bronze 
infcriptions. called Herae'tian Tables, were found 
1763, which are now at Naples. 

Across the Sinno. ancient SiHs. near FOVO 8irl 
(Stat.) In a well-wooded and picturesque spot, 
near its mouth, was the port ot Hetxulea, wliich 
is still used for shipping liquorice, com, and other 
produce. 

BosetO (Stat.), in Calabria Citeriore, near 
the River Femo. Past Treblsacce, ^- to 

Sibari (Stat.), nenr Cassano a bishop^a sea 
(pop., 7,9f4). with an old cattle in a beautiful spot. 

Sibari derives its name from the ancient Sybarii, 
founded. B.C. 720. on the otiier bank of the lirer 
Crati, where excavntions have been made. 

[Here a branc>> of i4 miles got s off to Doria- 

Cassaoo, Speszano-Cast'OTlUarl (Route 4o), 

TorKin, Roggiano, L^ttarico, Bisignano, Rende 
S. Fill, to Oosenza (Route 40). Bisiffnano waa 
ruined by an earthquake, 1887.1 

Corlgliano - Calabria (Stat.), population, 

11.000. 

BOBSano (Stat.), an archbi>hoprio and port, 
amoiii; marble qnarries and forests. 

Pass Hirto Crosia (Stat.) to Carlati(8tal), 

following the Qulf of Taranto all the way. 
The line runs near the winding cliffii pait 

Crucoli and Giro to strongidi (Stat.), the 

ancient Postelia^ picturesquely seated on the vea, 
ar.d to Ootrone (Stat.) For this place, and for 
Oatanzaro, and Squillace, on the Gulf of Squil- 
lace, see Route 40. 

From Cotrone (Stat.), 240 miles from T.hoM^ 
to Geracc is »8| miles, imftsinsr throu;rh Cutro, 
Cropani, Catanzaro, S<|uiliace, S. Ai.drea, Mouaa- 
terace nnd Koccella Ionic •. 

Gerace (Stat.), see page 271. Here yon may 
take the Mcrcarte PaKR over the Aspromonte range 
to Ciisalnno^ o. 40 miles (see below). BianCOIinOTO 
(Stat.), bctweiii which nnd BOTa (Stat.) the 
line passes Cape SpartlveiltO rStat.). Route 40. 
At Melito (Stat.) we coma in sight of tha Faro 
of Messina and tha Coast of Sicily. Than aMMt 



Bonte 40.] poLiooBO, aulbtta, pbbtosa, padula, polioastbo. 



S69 



40. 

Kaples to EboU, Auletta, CaBtro^illari, Oos- 
eaza, Nicastro, Gloja, Be^glo, and Sicily. 
By rail to Ebuli, 49^ miles. Theace by road. 
The distances cxt as follow : — 



Miles. 

La Duchess* 9 

Aiilctia 10 

Siila 12 

Gasalbuono 12 

Lagonegro II 

Liiuria 11 

Castelluccio 8 

Boton-la 7 

impoteiise 6 

Castro villai-i 8 

Tar la 16 

Ritorto 11 



Miles. 

Roglinno 9 

Acrifuglio 9 

Colla 11 

Tiriolo 9 

Gaiiino di Chiraco..Jd 

Torre Masdea 10 

Monteleone 10 

Kosarno 16 

Palmi li 

Ba^nara 6 

Villa 8. Giovanni ...12 
Rcggio 9 



Gom-nza 12 

Tbi8 route lies thr iigb Calabria, a picturesque, 
though bnckwiird region of Italy : and is the one 
followed (though in reverse order) by Garibaldi, 
ill lii'^ famous advance from Sicily, in I86U, wlien 
the kingdom of the Two Sicilies was overturned. 
The various incidents of tiiis remarkable expedition 
are described in Count Arrirabene's /ta/y under 
Victor Emmanuel^ and Captain Forbfs' work. 

Captain Forbes accomp>nied the expedition as an 
amateur: Count Arrivabene (formerly Professor of 
Italinn at Univer>ity College), as coi'respondent of 
the Dai'y News. Mr. Gallenga, aut hor of the " His- 
tory of Piedmont," was correspondent «»f The Times. 

Much of this route can be done more expedi- 
tiously as soon ns the whole of tlic railM-ay is open. 

Naples to EbOll (Stat.), as in Route 35. At 
^boli, then the tcrminu**, that successful t Icgraph 
trick was practised, 4th September, I860, which 
resulted in the withdrawal of a Neanolitan coi'ps 
darm4e ^f 12,0 men and thirty guns, placed at 
Salerno to arrest the march of Garibaldi towards 
Nuples. 

" This telegram had only just been transmitted 
along tlie wires when a minister of Francis II 
telegraphed bwcK to Eboli, " Any news of the «livi- 
sion of Citlandrelli?" To this Peard and Gallenga 
answered, 'lieueral Calandrelli and his dlvi>ion 
passed yesterday under the orders ot Garibaldi, at 
Lagonegro, and now form a portion of the national 
army.' This ti ick, together with othenelegrams 
sent by these two gentlemen to the Sindnco of 
Saernu, ordering him to prepare an imposing 
number of rations for the next day, determined — 
as I was myself afterward>told by De Martino, the 
minister of Francis II. — the backward movement 
of Geuf-r 1 Afant dc Rivera'.- corp* d'arm^e.'" 

From Eboli to La Duchcsna, thcnee to 

Auletta (Btat.\ see Houte ^7, a largo village, 
on the rijflit bank of the Tanagro. Its churches and 
t>ubllc buil(lin.:?8 were damaged by the earthquake 
bf 10th December, lt<57. From this place our route 
a^Mnds the Negro, or Tanigro, in the fertile Val 
li Uiaao, aiid«r the Apennmea. This is 4 mllM wide 
and 90 milea long, and enflfered fprtaXlj from t\i% 



earthquake, 1867, when whole villages were mined, 
and manv (some say 10,001)) persons perished, at 
Auletta, "Potonra, Sala, Padnla, Polla, Saponara, 
Sanonc, Montemurro, VIggiano, Ac. At Moute- 
murro 6,0n0 persons were overwhelmed. Large 
sums were subscribed in England and abroad, much 
of which was swallowed up by the officials and 
clergy. 

Pebtosa, or Petkosa (population, l.O&fi). in a 
deep ravlue, was half-destroyed by the earthquake, 
lleie the River Negro, breaking into a number of 
cataracts, passes under the promontory on whidi 
Auletta stands. The Campestreno Bridge crosses 
a brancii of this river. A little farther on a road 
branches off across the Tanagro, to PoUa (Stat.)» 
a town with 6,04ft population, which suffeied in 
the earthquake of 1>S7; and the river tor a time 
follow> a stibterr>iiieau course under the cliffs. 

Sala Consinina (Stat.), pMuiati<>n 8,503, 

which suffered from the earthquake of 1857, and 
faces DiANO (population 7,000). on the opposite 
bank, which gives na»ne to the valley. 

Padula (Stat.) (population, 8,274) also suffered 
in the earthquake, which ruined an old monastery. 
Here is a road over the hills to Marsico Nuovo, 
which was half destroyed in 1857, in common with 
other places beyond it; as Viggiano, a curious 
old troubadour city, whose inhabitants still wander 
about the world with harps, violins, flutes, Ac, 
and come back to settle. It has a statue of the 
Madonna, on a neighbouring hill. Here the loss 
was 1,000. MoHtemurro lost as many as 6,000. 
Saponara lost 2,tJ00, and its churches, Ac, were 
nearly destroyed; and Sarcone suffered in like 
manner (sec Mr. .Major's Earthquake Experience in 
Household Words for 1858). Near these was the 
ancient Orumentum^ whore Hannibal was defeated 
by Claudius Nero. 

CasalbUOno (Stat.), pop. 2,529, is near the head 
of the Negro and Val di Diano. The road winds 
over a ridge of the Apennines, and descends to 

Lagonkoro (population, 5,718), in the province 
of Basilicata, in a valley, near a dark lake, from 
which it gets its name. It suffered in the French 
invasion of 1806. Here General Calandrelli was 
overtaken and capitulated in 1860. It is about 10 
miles to the east of t'olicastro. 

[PoLic ASTRO, on the gulf of that name. Is now a 
small village (population, 600). and was destroyed 
by Robert Guiscard and the Turkish rover, Barba« 
rossa (1544). Hence it is about 15 miles wot to 
Palinuro, near Spartimento Point, where i£noas 
buried his old pilot, who was drowned by tumbling 
overboard when asleep. Here w a li)dithouse. 675 
f et high, seen 5 miles. About 1 5 hiiles farther 
is the site of VeJia^ or j^/eo, a Roman place of 
baiilshn cnt, facing the CEnotrides Islands of otrabo.] 

Lacuia (i>opulation. 8,000), among wiLi moun- 
tain scenery, is divided into high and low town, 
and stands 'near the Trocchina. or Nocc, wliich 
runs down to the Gulf of Policastro. 

Castelluccio, on a bill, amid thick woods. 

tiA ftOTOKDA^ a. tDM^Si^:^ "^^^'^fc^^S^S^'^^^^ 



270 



BBl.DBm.W a ITALY. 



[Section 8. 



enters the province of Calabria Citra (or the 
Nearer Calabria), and ascends the Apennines to 

Caupotemse, on a dreary bit of bleak table- 
land, 6,000 feet high, covered with snow in winter. 
Thence down a d< file, 4 miles long, to 

MoBAKO, or MoRRANO (population, 9,497), a pic- 
turesque town on the cliffs, with an old Castle. 

Castrovillari (pop. 7,741), a fortified town, near 
Spezzano Station (Route 39), with clean streets, 
seated among the mountains, on a fine green plain, 
watered by the River Slbari, or Cocile. Here a 
road runs down to CassanO (see Route 39), and 
thence to the River Crati. [On this roid is 
situated Rivolta, which stands in a beautiful 
spot, among gproves of oaks, ornamented with 
festoons of the vine. Copia, in the midst of 
fertility (as its name implies), is the ancient 
Thurii, or Copiae, between the Rivers Sybaris and 
Crathis, which now unite to form the CoscUe, 
or Cratil Herodotus and Lysias, the orators, both 
resided at Thurii, which was an offshoot of 
Sybaris, and gave the nickname of "Thurinus" 
to Augustus. At the mouth of this stream, on the 
Gulf of Taranto, was the famous Greek city of 
Sybaris, which once ruled over twenty-five cities, 
and became a proverb for luxury and effeminacy. 
Milo, the Crotonian, destroyed it by turning the 
course of the river, which now runs through a 
desolate marsh. The suburbs of tnis large and 
ancient c^ty utretched for 6 miles along the 
Crathis. Extensive remHins have been turned 
up here, like to xnother Pomiieii.] 

Cassano is the native town of Guiseppe Pace, 
a Neapolitan exile in London, who had been im- 
prisoned for many years in Procida, and led the 
Albanian volunteers from Spezzano, in 1860. 

Spezzano Albanese (Stat.)— pop., 4,046— the 

centre of some colonies of Albanians settled here 
in the fifteenth century by the Prince of Bisignano, 
upon his marnage with the daughter of Scander- 
beg. They still keep their langruage and religion, 
and have a college here for their sons, and are a 
fine warlike race. 

. Not far from Tarsia, on the direct route, a 
branch toad turns off to the left, to Kossano, on 
the Gulf of Taranto. 

Tarsia (Stat.)~population, 1,964 — has a ruined 
seat of the Spuielli family, hanging over the River 
Crati. Ascend the river to 

RiTORTo. To the west are the villages of Mon- 
taltO (Stat.) and S. Sisto, named after Pope Sixtus 
v., in whose reign their fonucr inhabitants were 
exterminated by the Neapolitan Viceroy for pro- 
fessing Protestantism. Such of the men as were 
not killed were sent to the galleys, while the 
women and children were sold as slaves. The 
road towards Cosenza was till lately infested by 
brigands. Cross the River Busento to 

Cosenza (Stat.) — pop., 16,642 the capital of 

Calabria Citra, and an archbishop's see, on 

the branch rail from Slbari. (Route 39) ; the 

a//cJeni Cif/fsen/$a, at the junction of the Busento 

^iid Cratl^ among hills covered vrlth villas, vibe- 

'ttrjg, sTores of oliveSf dse. Saffron, manua^ aud 



flax are grown here. It was partly destroyed by 
the earthquake of 1857. In 1860 it was held by 
General Calandrelli, who gave it up conditionally, 
and retired towards Naples. 

Consentia was the chief town of the Bruttii, and 
was taken by Hannibal. Alaric, the Visigoth, 
was besieging It when he died in a.i>. 410, and was 
buried at the bottom of the Busento, the course of 
which was turned for the purpose. Monte Co- 
cuzzo lies to the south-west, and about 10 or 15 
miles east is the elevated limestone plain of Reggia 
Sila and Monte Spineto. Monte Riparossa, 5,000 
feet above sea, is covered with rich pasture and 
vast forests of pine, oak, chestnut, Ac, which for 
ages have furnished timber for ship-bnild<ng. 
From its circular edge short rivers run down to 
both seas, towards every point of the compass. It 
occupies the centre of the broadest part of the 
Calabrian Peninsula. From Cosenza it is about 
12 miles north-west over the Apennines to Paolo, 
a fishing port (population, 7,000) on the west 
coast. Following the main road from Cosenza, 
the next place is 

RoGLiANO, or RuGGiANO (population, 5,243), on 
a hill, which has been rebuilt since its destruction 
by the earthquake of 1638. Gravina, the jurist, 
was born here 1664. The advocate, MorelU, a 
wealthy resident, was one of the leaders of the 
insurrection of 1860. 

SciOLiANO. — Here the new road towards Catan- 
zaro and Tiriolo parts off from the old and more 
direct one, which goes by Nicastro. It runs among 
picturesque glens and high rocks. 

SovERiA Manelli, ucar Passaggio, is the birth- 
place of a famous brigand, Caligari. It commands 
the road towards Naples. Here Goieral Ghio, 
with a force of 7,000 infantry, cavalry, and artil- 
lery, surrendered in 1860 to Garibaldi and a few 
Calabrese and National Guards. Garibaldi, as 
usual, was 30 or 40 miles ahead of his troops, and 
might have been taken prisoner by the Neapolitans 
hundreds of times without their knowing it. 

Tiriolo (population, 3,425), in the province of 
Calabria Ultra-Secondo, is near the back-bone of 
the Apennines, between Nicastro and Catanzaro, 
commanding an easy view of both the Tyrrhenian 
and Ionian Seas. 

[1. Nicastro, on the old road, a few miles west, 
has a population of 12,400, and farther west are 
the sulphur baths of S. Biagio, and Santa Eufb- 
MiA (population, 7,631), which gives its name to the 
gulf on this side, and had a Benedictine Abbey, 
fomidcd by Robert Guiscard, which was over- 
whelmed by the earthquake of 1638. 

2. To the east of Tiriolo is CatanzairO (Stat.) 
(sec above), on the coast rail, the capital of Calabria 
Ultra-Secondo, and a bishop's see (population, 
20,931), where the law courts and gymnasium 
(college) are seated. It is built on a rock, in the 
valley of jthe Corace, near the Gulf of Squlllac«, 
and Uaa a trade in silk, wine, corn, and other 
pTodUQ«. 



\ 



Uoute 40.] COBBHZl, COXKOHE, MlID^, UILBtO, PA 

SqnUlaoe (Stat) — imp„2,B1!— thcanclaitSqi^ splendid view of the Guir.lhti Apaiiilnci, Etim, 
AmWn, Is 10 miles soulh, iDd hence Ihe mil. close and the Llpitl Islands, Slrocuboll Is 40 milei 

of the penlnsnli lo Ciin SpartWeulo (60 miles), at Ulpponlum, a Greek city, called Tttv Talailia and 

'Hcr''cwaf7Te™ple''otPmMr|,iiie."cS 
of the hay are remnlna of Slcca'a VlIU, 

._ ..._ _. .. i Piano dl Monteleone, yields much riui 

Ju;:;rMa^a'GSra'"hirp^'SK«"y%« ^'^i",^"r'''"7^T''-Y'*^'':^Tsi' 

carvlne on the old Bull and Mouth, opposite the ^:,,„-;" t„ priest*, built by Ferdinand II Hert 
Post Office, London- GtiKial' Brliianil was masiacred in 18*0* hv his 



aMTm. Mm lor Cwktai i """^ '"'■ fl/V'^S* '"■ t"™ '" 'his nolBhbourhoodi 

T.ff>ito.irtut.(liirli)n.lwBt("| among which arc a number of Oreek colonies 

Afcw miles from this Is the lartniwn promon. descended from Albanian and Epitote settlers of 

tory,now Cape Hao. or Uella Coionna, soealliri the time ol Scandcrbcrg. IheyhavaapreadBcnaa 

ftom a solllary DcrU Column, !8 tcet high, of a ""= peninsulB, an J retain In part their langnsgo 

whSSi ™tai™d IhrKelen^f z'euils, the pa'llilM.l Jeropolamo (a rlyer), occur. Maiij tlUagea haro 

w, «--....... ^ been overturned and ravines made, all along tbia 

From Tirlolo the high toad passes , diatricl. by the earthquake of 1783, and by In- 

Ciaist. CuiRiAoo, near qnenl landslips. 

H&lda, a picturesque old town (population, BoBABBO(popnlation,3,180).ontheElverMeslm«, 

the Volleyof AngltoK'amousforSlrJohnStusrt'a wells, and Riled with wntcr b the hrlm, were 

«h July.- The English had about \SM men, ntnta ■Pniirn (Rhitl <■ ilm unFlimi lie,imn„a 

aeralnst 7.000 French, who lost nearly 6,000. The , ™^*.**^'S,^™*'.'.."'''°?!''''?'..*''??™'" 



1 robust neoole. rerv .? ^... .._.. *" ^''e Pi^n'^'Pa' *-ene 



s village perched on Ibe top of the he 



In mi. joined ~G 

""" '" ".?"&l'r? of the ravages occasioned by the -earthqnakeot 

Regglo which Is 10 connect It wilb Naples, 
imrnidtd bYXlKgos,"hurehM; Patoll (Stot), on Mt. EUa (population, 10,«a), 

Yillas, gardens, and nilns] ^pieluraqncly seated on a rock alwve the sea, in 

The Llpotl Islands soon come into tIcw. ,,^ jower ovcrlooka a fishing village JOO or SMt 

Solatlon, 8,765). Is the spot where ifurBHanded fruit, and beautiful woD»n( but there is one ilraw- 

clobor, l8lo. and tried to get up a ilsbig in back. Here and elsewhere in Calabria lliey cit 

Ills (avonr, by showing a banner In Ihc sqnaro. piita, a dry cake made of flour, garlic, .nd oil! a 

He was taken, tried by conrt-marlial In the castle, mesa like tlint with which. In the (orm of soup, the 

uidshot. He was bnrled lu the Church. Foithls good Father Abbot nearly pMtoned Mr. Curion, 

urvice Pizzo was created a city, aud styled on Mount Athos. There la s glorioui prospect oC 

Sleaniara call here regularly. name of AspnunontB, from their nigged appeir- 

latlon, 10,310). on a height nnce. It was In attemplhig to cross these that 

theOnllof B. Enlemla, bas Oaribaldl received hii wound, and. wltb-^DOO of 

eric II.. with an Angoatlno his followers, vaa taken prlsonee h^ Vml ni*!. 

a the clIITs, commaiidinB • tiotn*, im&VE lu'AscK^ ^ifiifc-^sSai., "OfCa te-^i"-. 



IMa. Hlsboot pierced 

wanntled. Gatl^sldl w»i put n board an 



BSXKIBAW'S HALT. [8«etioil S.' 

bunel wu plcktd I SollU (Btat). popnUHon, I.iM, ■ •m>11 tewB, 



[OppldO, "D t he fluiki < 



U Earlliquatcot i.iH; Ihl 
jgh It ivs. r.lt 01 f»r Bl 
.QCfll.biiiiK.dSldly, bul 

4110 or ami BQuarg mllu 
nilB-iDuDdOppldu. Tbe] 






wldq. Th* 



ofl, 4c., were iwallowsd up, w 
Inli'blunM. 

Ibe dl>[ gee o[ ■ mile. Uii[i>ei 
M Flaitato. Mvera] g.pi wora i 
tc. be I. en. One !• ■ m Ic loDV, 
SOfaMde^; enather li | niilu 






i I Diit of a populatlui 
la»oii.DpiU».elcfl 
re. At Terra Xowt 
l> inre kllJcd. It II 



look pi .ceoTor rock> q( u vultanlc i.t trap caracter. 

BtiMium* <papu1i<lloD. 4.090} was hull deiiraynl 

by Iho Sdniccut, and again by the earthqu ke o/ 

liB3, AnuUieitordaiwagmovedliiDloet.n'ltboill 



Is Cordova olitalaed a 



Bisnara (Stat.), population, 8,697, Bneiy eiin- 



u proTerb,wlUi "Siclll^ 



b^ prirtte mldaiit, ndo^v* Uwb ■MUrfoittie 



canie eddlee, but Ihers lino wlilrlpool LOmakf^tba 
paiuge dangerous oiceptto luuh tuiall craft a« 



Tho Upper Townl>B 



It.r" (Jn-fiuAtw). Sjianiah Id : 
IbylaUraddliloiii. Itwaioccupl 
after the battle of Mnlda, a.<d ii 
e French after eljbleer - 



^llHsnid CD the beacb fur aBCety truiii Ibe filILn; 
lioDMS. wbui the lirocco wind be^un to -blow, tba 



ay lirldffe li projected toeroeeftt this jMbit. 
iTEd, leoo, to UajorNnllo and ill gnldea,wbe 

Ihoir revolver, and eoniniandBd thein to mr- 
sre are your troupit" "Qarlbaldl li ten 

er°D( the town. °^«>n after. General MelendK 

j,IIO<l lurroidBredi and iMi wai faUawed by 

jiooDdltlDiial auTiDdaf of bl> ■Hftnor idtear. 

' u«<t^ BitguU. 



fioute 40 J 



dciLLA, fiEaato, siciLr« 



273 



lUgsLo (Stftt.), the Aheient Rhegium, Fopn- 
lauonTiOfOOO. 

BoUU: Yittorla; Enropa. 

Steamer to Messina, in connection with the rail. 

The capital of Calabria Ulteriore Prinio,and an 
arclibishop's see, in a charming sithation, on a 
spur of Asproraonte, near the end of the peninsula 
and the Apennines. It has a splendid view of 
Sicily and the Strait (7 miles across to Messina), 
and of Etna. The land here is some of the most 
fertile in Italy; rich in silk, oil, oranges, lemons, 
and other fruit, besides the aloe, cactus, palm, &c. 
Monte Alto, behind it, 4,880 feet high, is covered 
with forests of pine, chestnuts, and other trees. 

Reggio, though modem-looking, is one of the 
most ancient cities of Magna Grsecla, having been 
founded seven centuries before Christ. It was re- 
built by Julius Cfesar after an earthquake, and 
called Rh^um Julii. Here St. Paul touched on 
his voyage to Rome, after landing at Syracuse — 
**we fetched a compass and came to Rhegium"; 
and hence he sailed right before the south wind, to 
Puteoli. It fell under the power of the Goths, 
Saracens, and Normans; was burnt by corsairs in 
1544 and 1658; was almost destroyed by i\\^ Earth- 
quake of 1783, and much shaken by those of 1841 
and 1851. The present town, having been restored 
on a regular plain since 178.3, consists of three 
streets, or corsi^ one above another, parallel to the 
shore, intersected by other streets running down 
to the sea. At the upper end is a strong Castle or 
Fortezza Alta, with a small fort near it. The 
Cathedral has some old mosaics and monuments. 
Museo Comunale, with a collection of anti- 
quities. 

Reggio was the 6rst place on the mainland taken 
by Garibaldi, in his celebrated march of 1860, 
after running through Sicily. On the 21st August, 
General Gallotti, who commanded 1,500 troops in 
the castle and fort, was surprised to see one of 
Qaribaldi*8 lieutenants appear on the heights be- 



hind, and immediately gave in. fie expected to 
be attacked, hot in the feai*, but from the scfl, 
secundum artem. 

The total force under Garibaldi was 24,500 men, 
armed with Colt's Enfiolds, and seventeen puns; 
most of them belonging to the respectable classes, 
and many being sons of gentlemen, all serving 
from patriotism. The actual pay of the privates 
was l|d. a day, and of the officers, 2 francs, from 
the general downwards. Sistori was chief of tho 
staff, and the other lieutenants were Eber, Medici, 
Bixio,TUrr, Corrcz, besides Colonel Pcard, "Gari- 
baldi's Englishman,** a Cornish gentleman, who 
had lived in Italy, and after joining as a private 
in Lorabardy, had been made a colonel at the battle 
of Milazzo. A so-called English regiment, consist' 
ing mostly of foreigners, deserters from ships, «kc., 
was commanded by Colonel Dunn. Their one faith 
was to follow Garibaldi, and to make Italy a 
nation under Victor Emmanuel:— "'When Gari- 
baldi goes back to Caprera, we return home too." 
Part of the force was le(t to garrison Mcskina, 
Palermo, and other Sicilian fortresses. The Regi 
or royal troops, opposed to them in Calabria, num- 
bered 25,000 men, under General Viale, whoso 
head-quariers were at Monteleone. They wei"o 
well provided with artillery and stores, but wero 
soldiers only in name, being nothing better than 
an armed police. Garibaldi was here again (1863) 
before the affair at Aspromonte (page 271). 

From Reggio, a road, identical with tho Via 
Tr^ana, follows the white cliffs of the coast, to 
Cape Pellaro, the ancient Leueopetra (5 miles), and 
thence round to Cape SpartiyentO (25 miles), or 
promontory of Jfferculis, at the extreme end of Italy. 
Here and there are Greek hamlets perched on tho 
crags, inhabited by noble-looking men and beauti- 
ful women. The new coast rail from Reggio runa 
near the road above mentioned, in conjunction 
with the line from Bari and Taranto to Cotrone 
(see Route 39). 



SICILY (SICILIA), 



Which takes its name from the Sieuli, is the 
largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, and is 
separated from the mainland by the Faro, or 
Strait of Messina. From its triangular shape, 
Horace calls It Triquetra^ and Virgil, Trinaeria. 
The ea»t, or shortest side, is 145 miles long; the 
south, or south-west side, is 190 miles; and the 
north, or longest side, is 215 miles. This gives a 
circuit of 550 miles, or nearly 700 miles, following 
the winding of all its bays. Its area is about 8,000 
square miles. A Government Survey of the island, 
In fifty sheets, was published 1872. 

A chain of limestone hills runs near the north 
coast, from Trapani to the Faro of Messina, the 
highest parts of which are 3,000 to 4,000 feet high; 
but Monte Madonia is said to be about 6,000 feet. 
A lower chain, from Cape Passaro, Joins this at 
Monte Artesino, near Nicosia. Etna, which stands 
hy itself on the east const, is 10,874 feet hl^b, and 



\ 



is covered with forests, but tbo other motmtalns 
of Sicily are naked. The plants are In common 
with those of Italy and Africa; and the fossils 
correspond with animalsnowinthoMeditcrrnncnn, 
showing (says Lyell) that the Island has gradually 
risen from the sea. 

The longest Rivers are the Giaretta, or Simiethus, 
near Etna, the Salso, Platani, and Bclice. TJio 
rest are summer torrents. There are three or four 
small Lakes; the largest is that of Lcntini. 

Granite is found in the Pclorus range, near 
Messina. Round Etna the soil is volcanic; else- 
where it is chiefly limestone. The chief mineral 
production is sulphur, on the south side of the 
island. About 600,000 cwts. arc shipped yearly from 
Girgenti, Terranova, Ac, of whlehtwo-thirdscomo 
to England. Sicily produces uv«\N\ft,^ x<^*5^-'»»^^.^ 
«oda^ atvd %ofc^\.«Rft. 'a.\i^^\i'*.%xsJv»»w% KiV w^jv^ ^« 



■mADIBAW'* ITit*. 



Dm TarmtnL BiaUlnn w 
e cholcMt IWlIu nucu 



piltDsno. suob, igs, du. liquorice, rica. I: 
caiiUiiuUc*. priskly pwiriu Ihe heJa". "' "i • 
<broii|thl from Afrku by tha Bar«cein|. au^ 
(brought b» (lomil Koger from Ilie Ba-t]. Sugar. 

It kept up. Sbeep >nd goaii ire kapt. Du 



Clurg* f or tbrM flaU*, nU*. MMmt, (nrMoll^ 
ttd rodtfnf • ror ana tnrdMr, H Iin. or fM. 
par day. Faai tor mrlea; polle*. and guldsi, an 



eittU. 



roadt: 1 



riia, Pilcnno. 8;ncD 

In 1S»1. tbe populal 

M.DM .--- -■ "---•- 



t populadr racognlMd — YiU 
uura. and Valdl Nolo. It li 

ti. Caunli, Olrgmtl, Mu- 

:dh, and Trapanl. 

m wii 3,R17,MI. About 






,0 kiap to thdr i 



Id rallgion. 

In lome retoou dliirlct*. Ihe aMIagen Mill 
nekon lime In the old Italian wnjr. that li, ibe dar 
haiUii at innut. called M o'eloek. or II boar, when 
Ma ersnlng lamp li broHghl In. Tba loDfoat da; 
:a i«l|ioui>i thaibortaudartlboDra. kld-dar 
rangea tioia Id hoara I Diunto. In July, to 19 
hvnra 41 i«Jnnlea, In January. Ararage lampcra- 

iwtlenl moBifca, when the malaria In ita arenlng li 
la be ohiedy gsardad agalnat. IUIb (all* abaut 
«ie day In '— 
^ Slcll 






e Italian 



aaamulntocni; Deiljeaollur modi flee 
dldMt bai been lllailratad hr ">< J 
iiarfre of Palarmu. In hla Flihermeo'i I 

(or II Labro.'the Up), tbfa BlcllUn te 



wenHbalatCallan, 

TVowfiV ** «o«i— There li i 
trum MM.ii.a to P,ilerB.o. and al 

Theea are now aapeticded by tha ra 

^»iuv Im mlio m ""I"' ■~:.i I- 

wnulilm 

' taaku tba n 



oloU 



laFlori 



9D11)- Tiril 



Bfodtliait't CofiUnaual OiUilr.) 
XaNaMyi.— From Palermo 1. ToTermlnl.Rocca- 

Kumba, B. Cjilerlna. Lconforla, Catania, and 
ulna; wllta bruicbaa ta Aragona. Olrgentl, 
Llcala, gyracnia. 1. To Mar«l», and Tmpaiil. 
(. Tu Corleou*. 4. Ucialna to OliTerl. which will 
eTentnalls- m«t tha line ftaia Palema lo Cefald 
and evmplela Ihe circuit. 

rALKSliO (Mat.) 
The ancient Panormut. founded by the Oreeki; 
nov the chief city of the Iilaiid. (he Hal o/ • 
uiirerilty. arebblihop, Ac. I>opalallan (llgPL 
idti.oao. laclBillngiabnibg. 
BebUi: lie Frnncj; de la Pali; THnacri»i del 

Ralairanli Stella Amerlcuia: OreloiLlneolDi 

Cai /Wv.— One hone. In the town, tV centi.i 



lunrlac, double prlcev TarllTah 
Valelde place (ctci 
Boat Hire to Stean 



iaaa.PaiitoUarlB,Ui 



1 lire. Kldnlght u 






^1,117; Maizara. JOi'sclaoea. tTi Ulrvmll,!*. 
I. Palermo Wft5«BUi..—T»DMU, BT: Haraalt, 

etie, M. .^ 



^ttt« 4o.j i^/tm^t-^-^JdJumo^ S75 

f. Palemo to SynettM, by tli« voHh-^^/tfalti, | hat « tall Fp rn t a bt (1MS>, •ott atiUn g •! MTcral 
— ^ — -*^ - - ... ItiiidtUiuH 

IV.,of8mUxi. 
. . ol Charles V^ 

■' - theSlclUana. 

Santa Rosalia 
ruly, at Monte 
)ria a nutrble 

etween Porta 
}f the Saracen 
H of diflRu«nt 
dB(^:erGui8<* 
trai and most 
t comprises a 
I colonnades I 
iir portraits I 

fresco; tha 
ithau ancient 
thio AOoMfttf 
feet long, and 
' and maii>lea, 

Here Roger 
silk from the 
uartersin his 
JT-de-Lion, on 
is sister Joan, 
i II. Victor 
% through the 
3 in 1708. In 
zi, the astron- 
in 1801; the 
planets, since 

8 a ▼alnaUe 
e Island. 
rceum are in 

a th» Palapi* 

whose statue 
It iiro^ on 
Ich H is said 
dhassufTerea 
)al front was 
tlnmne of the 

Two Qothia 
ildiag, which 

The in^^ior 
by Fuga, who 
e divided by 
Tteen chapels, 
and paintings 
'alenuo. The 
porphyry and 
igini, and M. 

*v.i,' iUMtLryvsM^M \m V^TZr uT'^^^1^'^ ■"*• ^^^ ***•' ^^ enHehed with jasper, agates, 

«.e SMHan Vetpers, or Feyg-, led by Jphn of i^^^^ jaa^li, and gold. On a marble tabli to cm 

Proclda; and by Spanish and Neapolitan Viceroys, the copy of a letter written by the Madonna to the 

During the French revolution when Sidly was people of Messina. Among the monuments are th# 

under the protection of England, its Bourbon ^'Jg of Roger U., thelret Notomb^ \5« ^5*^ 

sovereigns found refuge at Palermo^ 1806-12. dtftillVM'Vvy^VfB^ T'^^ vv\^K<«^ifiriu«vS^^teTOM 

Near Piatsn YiUen* la Piajtra Preterit, betwMQEi \ trviSKW lU "Wn ia\U Qffw*g«! i? ^ *" ^ 



*^« 



274 BKADittJLW'B ITAit 



About Qn«-kctf of tlM 
the best quality is fron 
is preferred for the 
Other productiuue aro' 
currants, olives, pista< 
palmetto, carob, figs, fl 
canthiirides, prickly peti 
(broatrht from Africa 1 
<broaght by Count Kofi 
which the Saracetit intr 
bat the production of 
Is kept up. Sheep an 
cattle. The great drf 
the want of good road« 
were taxed, under the 
they were nerer made, 
hare helped to supply 1 
caught everywhere in 

Three divisions are 
di Demone, Val di Max 
now divided into seven 
named: - Galtanisietti 
eina, Palermo, Syracai 

In 1881, the popular 
f»/m are of Greek 
settled here since 144 
dress, customs, and r^ 

In some remote d-^ 
nekon time in the ol<t 
iMglos at sunset, call^ 
the evening lamp is t^' 
is I4f hours ; the shc^' 
ranges from 16 hoii.«^ 
hours 4S Minutes, in ^ 
ture of the year, ea*^- 
bottest monthe, whev» 
to be chiefly guard^^ 
«ne day in four. 

The Sicilians chan l^ 
m ? // into dd; b Into-i^ £ 
and f««into chi; besi ^^ 
dialeet has been illm^^ 
native of Palermo, in- * . 
nlH pastorale. For ^5 
(or II Labro, the L.l|^' 

CercMm^y 
Ohludl l'*^^' 
Tllu'n^lig 
Utmi •»! 1^ 

weuU be in Italian, 

Gercliiil «9 
CWndi l'^ 

OwnaS ' 
Travelling by Ro^^; 




from Mostiina to P. *i "^ Vrlth a branch to Qirgenti. g"^?-"-^ #«ii«-r :— 

middle of the l«ian ^^ ^ed by the rail, aeexcwrioui ^y «* *» '*»"^'^IT * «,.«^ m« dlstana.. 

These are now super^^fVious stations on the llni! I. I^h« *»«>» PllmiiO to <«f™i2iS oS? 

ean be made from v^^^^e road from MeaainA to »» Italian or sea mllw, W to "•^^*iy!T*y 



iU>ttt« 40.] 

f. Palenno to SyncttM, by Hm Boirth.—Ctfalti, 
99 1 8. Stefano. l«; MUasso. 49; Uparl. 21; Mm- 
lina, 48; Catania. M; Augatta^Sl; Syracusa, 15. 

4. Palermo to Malta.— Messina, 132 ; Catania, 
54 ( Syracuse. 80 ; Malta. 86 

5. Palet mo to Tmiis. — Trapani, 67 ; Favignana, 
9; PautcUaria, 69 ; Tunis, 96. 

Palermo is at the bottom of a fine bay, bounded 
by Capes di Gallo and Zatfarano, and stands on a 
plain called Conca d*Oro, bordered by the sea, and 
tw^o ridges of hills, which are covered with forests, 
gardens, villas, and palaces. Monte Pellegrino, the 
ancient Ercta, is to the north, and the fort of Ca>tcl- 
lammare is to the north-east, overlooking the 
harbour. It is nearly square in shape, about 
1 mile each way. It was f'ormer!y divided into 
four sections called the Loggia. Kalsa, Albergaria, 
and Siralcadi (or Capo); names partly oorrupted 
from Arabic names bestowed when the Baracens 
had posses<don of Uicily , previous to Norman occu- 
pation. Since the overthrow of the old govern- 
ment the city has considerably ex|>andcd, in the 
M. and S.W. directions. One main street, Corso 
Vittorio Emanuele, formerly Via Toledo, or II 
Cassaro (from *' AJkasr," the palace), runs north- 
east from Porta Nuova, near the palace, to Piazza 
Marina and Porta Felice, close to the harbour; 
and the other, Corso Garibaldi, or Via Macqueda, 
runs north-west from Porta S. Autonlno to Porta 
Macqueda. The open Piazza at the point of 
intersection, called Villina, or Viglicna, is set oft 
with handsome buildings and porticoes, planned 
by G. Lasso (1609). The houses have flat roofs, 
and balconies shaded with blinds, for protection 
against the intense heat of summer. 

The palm, cactus, orange, and citron flourish here, 
and there is a mixed Spani*"!! and Orientallook about 
the city. A lady is styled Dona, and a gentleman, 
Don. In Via Toledo are several gloomy convents, 
with barred windows, deep eaves and balconies. 
The chief promenade is the Marina, by the sea side, 
between Fort Galita and Fort Erasmo. which If 
near Flora or Villa Giulia Gardens, laid out ITTT, 
and the Botanical Gardens, founded 1790. In the 
latter are a fine avenue of date-pa1n1^ and good 
tpeeimens of AuHtnlian and similar trees, worth 
a viait from the scientific traveller (fee, 1 Ir.). At 
the entrance to Villa Giulia is a fine group ot 
ttatuary by a native. 

Donkeys and mules are used as means of 
transport. 

Palermo was the seat of Saracen Emirs for two 
centuries and a half, from 830 to 107i, when its 
Korman conquerors came to reside here. They 
were succeeded by the Kings of Aragon ; by the 
French, who were exterminated. 30th March (Eas- 
ter Tuesday), 1282, by a general massacre, called 
the Sicilian Veaper»^ or Vesper^ led by John of 
Prorlda; and by Spanish and Neapolitan Viceroys. 
Daring the French revolution, when Sicily was 
under the protection of England, its Bourbon 
•OTenigns found refugt at Palermo, 1806-12. 

STtar flMMMM ViUmiB l§ Piassa Pretoria, betireeiv 
a»ftV/irfiw»</t^f f siM t» 4Mid thtUniT«rtity. U 



lliOttY<«»«AUMMO> 



S75 



haa a tall Fcunittin (1M8X aoimttinf •£ atvc: al 
basins supported by fignret of animali and statuaa 
of Charles V. and PhiUp 11., III., aad IV., of Spain. 
In Piazza Bologni ia volsi's bronae ol Charles V., 
swearing to preserve the privileges of the Siciliana. 
In Piazza del Duomo is a statue of Santa Rosfdia 
(1744), whose f osta is observed 16th July, at Monte 
Pellegrino. In Piazza della Vittoria a marble 
statue of Philip V. faces the 

Palazzo Reale, or Royal Palace, between Porta 
Nuova and Porta dl Castro, the site of the Saracen 
Al katr. It is a group of buildings of difllsrant 
ages, from the time of the Saracens and Roger Quia- 
card, fortified like a castle. The central and most 
regular portion was built 1616. It comprises a 
court, surrounded by galleries and colonnades | 
the Hall of the Viceroys, with their portraits; 
the Hall of Parliament, painted in fresco; tha 
Throne Room ; the Hall of Audience, wit h au ancieni 
bronze ram; and the beautiful Gothic FmUttUie 
Chapel, build by Roger, 1129-82, 12d feet long, and 
richly decorat^ with mosaic, gilding and maii)les, 
and porphyry in beautiful slabs. Here Roger 
first introduced the manufacture of silk from the 
East in 1140, griming the weavers quarters in hla 
own palace; and here Richard Cosur-de-Lion, on 
his way to Palestine, 1190, visited his sister Joan, 
wife of Roger's grandson, William II. Victor 
Aniadeus, who became ELing of Sicily, through tha 
influence of Queen Anne, resided here in 1708. In 
the Obsei-vatory, over the Palace, Piazzi, the astron- 
omer, discovered the planet Ceres, in 1801; the 
first of a long succession of minor planets, since 
found, numbi^ng about 260. 

The Biblioteca Ccrnvrntie contains a valnaUo 
Library of MSS., on the history of the Island. 

The National Library and the Lyceum are in 
the CoU^io Nuovo of the Jesuits. 

The Gothic *CatkedtaI, not far from tba Palapi« 
Reale, is dedicated to SaPta 9osal}a, wbose statu* 
is in Piasxa del Duomo. It was built 1170-M, on 
the site of one of the mosques, of which \t (s said 
the Saraocns had 200 in Palermo: and lias suffered 
from later alteratlcms. The pripoipal front was 
added about 1480; on ope of the oolnmna ot the 
portico is a verse from the Koran. Two Gothio 
arches {oin the belfry to the main building* which 
abounds with arabesque ornaments. The in^ior 
was changed to the Corinthian style, by Fuga, who 
erected the oupola. The aisles are divided by 
granite pillars, and surromided by fourteen chapels, 
in which are bas-reliefs by Gagini, and paintings 
by a native artist Velasquez, of Palermo. The 
choir is ornamented with mosaics of porphyry and 
verde antico, marble statues by Gagini, and M. 
Rossi's frescoes. 

The high altar is ^riched with jasper, agates, 
lapis lazuli, and gold. On a marble table is cut 
the copy of a letter writtoi by the Madonna to the 
people of Messina. Among the monuments are tbd^ 
tombs of Roger U^ xXia ««ia."».««\s«».>^a^ vjr^m^ 
dled\\WL^\ «>ie«c«uss»«K\^^»«fii*wt\ 

YwAwV^ W\>i* -^^ ^^^^^^^" ^^ ^^^ 



' 



276^ 



fittAt>BttAW'8 Wktr, 



[Sectioti «. 



sarcophagi, imder cimopiM, resting on porp/hyry 
colaidns. The ancient crypt contains the remains of 
several archbishops. In the sacristy is Gaglili's 
statue of the Virgin, with some Arab and Greek 
documents. Gagini was a native of Palermo. 

Several of the other churches contain frescoes 
and paintings by P. Novelli (otherwise Morr^lese) 
and P. Velasquez; or statuary by Gagini. 

Sta. Maria delta Catena, dating from 1400, has a 
peculiar facade, with low squat arches. 

Chiesa Professa^ built 1564, has three lofty aisles, 
and a profusion of marbles and other decorations; 
and among the paintings, two by Rosalia, the 
daughter of P. Novelli. Annexed to it is the 
Bibtioteea Comunale of 40,000 volumes, with a 
museum of antiquities, medals, &c. S. Rosa's 
painting of the Sicilian Vespers, and Caravaggio's 
Santa Agata. 

8. Domenico, a large Doric church of the seven- 
teenth century. It has a tomb of the Abb^ Meli, 
the poet ; an ancient half-Roman cloister ; and a 
Virgin, liy Vandyke, at the altar of the SS. Rosario 
Chapel, adjoining ; with some stuccoes by Serpotta, 
a Palermo artist of the last century. 

S. Franeeseo de' Chiodari, built 1265, is remark- 
able for the Arabic inscriptions on some of its 
columns. At S. Lorenzo's Church, near it, is a 
painting by Caravaggio, and figures by Serpotta. 

S. Oiovanni degV Eremiti, half a ruin, was built 
1132, hy King Roger, and has all the characteris- 
tics of a mosque, being low and surmounted by 
several domes, and a central tower. 

8. Oitueppe has a fine cupola, and is one of the 
best churches in the city. Built in the seventeenth 
Qtfitury. The church of the 

*La Afartorana, on the left side of the Via Mac- 
queda, is in the shape o# a Greek oross, built 1118-89, 
by Roger's admiral, George of Antiocli, in a half- 
Gothic, half-Saracoiic style. It has some curious 
mosaics, among which is a portrait of King Roger, 
in a Byzantine dress ; and the lower parts of the 
wall are reveted with slabs of marble and porphyry 
in beautiful patterns. The dome was removed, 
having been injured by an earthquake in 1726. 

8. Matteo, not far from Piazza Qaattro Canti, 
has ft fine picture of the Virgin by Novelli. 

Santa Zita belongs to an oratory in which is a 
painting by C. Meratta. There is a Descent from 
the Cross, by V. Anemelo, in the church. 

The Infirmeria dt" Sacerdoti has in the chapel a 
Pietk by Marcello Venusti, 

In the Speddle Orande, Piazza dolla Vittoria, 
now used as a barrack, is a remarkable frenco. 

The University, founded 1447,' and revived 1805, 

has about 1,200 students, and fine zoological and 

g'eoJog'Ica} &&;Jections. Kuseo Nazionale (open 

<^/{f; jo to 8j contaias prehistoric antiquities, 

mea/ptare^ laser/ptJona, terrA-cottaa, pottery, 

f^^^f yfBes, coins, Ac. Qpcludlng the *Metopea 

<'iiUM from I-oup0iiX and, on tb^ 2flcl floor, a 



collection 6t Plctui'es, with Viccenio do Paviit*s, 
masterpiiece, ^iVdrksttf Novelli, and a tery valuably ' 
early Flemish altaf-piece. National Librarp, YUt* 
Vittorio Emanu^le. 

rA^a^rex.— Foliteama; Bellini ;S. Cecilia; Gari-< 
baldi. 

The charitable institutions include a large Al- 
bergo del Povferi, or House of Industry, begun 1746 ; 
several Hospitals; a large Lunatic Asylum ; Found- 
ling Hospital ; a Monte di Piet^ &c. 

There are also a Nautical School and a Veterinary 
College at Palermo; a Chamber of Commerce; and 
Law Courts, at the Palazzo dei Tribunali, which 
stands on the site of a Saracenic Villa, and belonged 
to the Chiaramonte family. 

Many of the palaces of the nobility are built In a 
half-oriental style, and are surrounded by beauti- 
ful gardens. From Palazzo Bwera there Is a 
splendid view. Palazzo Chiaramonti (one of the 
halls has a wooden ceiling of the 14th century) is 
now the Palazzo dc' Tribunali, and is known as 
Lo Steri (Hosterium). 

In the neighboui hood are several villas and 
other objects of notice. 

*La Zisa, in the suburb of Olivuzza, over- 
looking Palermo, is a castle in the Saracenic style, 
square, with Gothic arches, mosaic pavements, 
arabesque ornaments, and inscriptions. It was 
built for the daughter of an Emir, and altered by 
William L 

*La Cuba (or Kabba), on the Morreale road, is 
another Saracenic relic, in the same style as the 
Zisa, and is used as a Cavalry Barrack. 

The Favara (or Castello di Mar Dolce), under 
Monte Grifone, is in the same style, and was f<»r- 
merly the residence of William II. The convent of 
Santa Maria di GesU near this has a good prospect. 
On the way back to Palermo is the old Cemetery, 
the Campo di 8anto Spirita, where the aicilian 
Vespoiv broke out, 1382; the 600th anniversary 
of this was kept in 1882. A memorial oross, Croce 
dei Vespri, remains. 

Near the Cuba is the Capuchin Convent, with its 
church, under which are the unhealthy and Ill- 
smelling vaults of a cemetery, first excavated in 
1621. Here the mummified bodies of wealthy 
persons are preserved, in niches or under glasa 
cases, dressed in their clothes and ornamented with 
flowers, for the inspection of their friends. 

M0Iir0&l6 or Morreale, 4 miles south-west, up 
a long ascent, commanding a fine succession of 
prospects (tramway from Palermo to La Rocca), is 
remarkable for its Benedictine Abbey and tho 
archbishop's church annexed .to it. Tho * Cathedral^ 
dedicated to the Virgin, is 330 feet long, and is one 
of the finest in Italy, in that mixture of Saracenic, 
Greek, and Italian styles which prevails in St. 
Mark's, at Venice. It was founded, 1174, by 
William II., tho Good. The walls are covered 
with mosaics and arabesques, and the portals are 
two bronze doors by Bonanno of Pisa, 1186. 

The h\teT\0T\& (SivTVi«&VcA.o three aisles by pillars 
of fipranlte and d\tl«i«iA tA\Qi\a«&. mv^Xv^ vod the 
\ walU we a Ta«8» oI\ot^1 wMk»«^'»^^«a!C(t^*ayi6 



oily nwufe pfchmu In cmtome, of taints •nti 
uigelB, wuh ■ colDtB^ flBOm o( Chtl.t In bluo 
•ndgQldslUiofnrthererd, Inicrlptlon" In Oreslt. 

nta'™ (he old on*, which, wllh Us inMBica, wa, 

tomhj o( the foqnjw (who died HB»X und his pre. 
d«euor. WUllsm the Bad. 



(hora of HlcilJ'." This conient {now eecnlnrlBid) 

t.. .. ..,_.?..,_..,, ^UJ, Q„,t . ,_.' 

„ ;-& 

Hid TelonjoR of rnlsrmu. 



The roynl park of Boci di 
°— -ntoPilermoby 

10 north-west of 



1 ahrnpt prcdpltons man, 



-UOHKBUA. 

.laniydiiljriognt. 
Italy and Victor 1 



KcapoJItana, pofttd a' 



troops by anrpiiie. he carried Porta dl Temilnl and 
the lower parts of the city, the fleet flrine on lh« 
town from the horbonr. Hy night Oarlbaldl 
reached his heud-qnarten In J^atra ibl Prturia. 
and had occapled nil fhc lown. exceiit the Royal 
Palace and the Hole. He also took peaHulon of 
the Bank, wllh 1) million In casb. 

the Cailello. or Cltadtl. and at last only ceaaed 

cartrldiceaamanleft. ThlanrmlilicelcdtoDoIhlDgr; 






police, by a monk, and allBed : but li).lkao inmrEenls 
were called into mlatenoa, who apread the Oaioe of 
re.olt o>erlhelalBdd. The ganlwo waa Increaaed 
to ifKoaO. and the city p<He<i under alegB. Wbcn 
Garibaldi beaid of II. ns deUrmbied to tun It to 
account. "1 nerei aMaad ttal* SleHliB ranift- . 



■I iu aiclly. 



eajwlilani were reported by Admiral Mundy 
"frlithtful." After ffutHnB fie HoyaJ Palaca, 

raVelermsIn the contBt, 
I,e0O men noder Colon^ 
Uedlci and Uajor Corte. 

Garibaldi was at Palermo again In I8S2. In ijdte 
if the goTcmmcnt, who dlsaTOWedhH ill^idvlaed 
irejecta analnsl Borne. He gave a loatt, "Rome 

DBrehed'liencewlth!,OOU followers to Catania Hut 

AboatSE miles north-north-west of Palermo la 



ROXTTXl 41. 

Mamo to MmmIu, br U« Mertli Oaut, 

vUBft^aTte,Tflniliil,P«Kl,MtlMio,tto. 

Ai far u Cefilhb; nlli Ihc prlnolpiil itHtloni 
batiw BigherK a. Flmli [[ar aufuiilkni), AtUTill^ 



Ctfilh 

8. HtainiD «.„, ._ 

CtpXTtMuda ...Wi 
Oldlma .._„.._„.„ lit 

IHKKt itumen from Pili 
irUhoBl eslllng. th 



FalU . 



eek. uirl 1 



M<>»i,<>uu Miuam. iioDil'oruFD]ice,Fii1enDa,l« 
FlMMKIl (flt&t.1, (mllMt udtbaiHta 
Bsfliarlk (Ktat.), or Bag^rta. Khars muiv 

oftheifeiltliytiliibluntiiUva. PopnUtlon, Ift»77. 

Hare art >Vri> Altera. wHh lu hemltign ud wtx 

flgrnra; and WBo FaiagBr'- '--■ •— — 



AltatllU (Itat.), with • Mon 
dBIi9g[iDmlO>7. 
Ttnninl (Itat.) "t Tarmlnl Iner 



'msmw^ iui<T. [Section S. 

Bsou (popnlithn, l.crrn. on * tUiTovcrtb* •••, 
snnMnuttM d* an old i»U*. Abont TmllMtotlM 

liftliGiparOrluidD. Tha VslaiDo ud tha otliw 
Llpari IstuidB ira iltlble. 
Pim (populiliop. fl,4l») hu ■ CatbtdnL irhlali 

IMided l'8lh'ju°r. ISftl; In hli mifch lo Ulluie. 
IToni this plMB Ihrea ictlTe volctuioM Ira i.BM>— 
Etna, Voleano. md SlromboK. 

Thellot wblch i- lnteni<*it (ojoln UMiiw and 
palarmo nai oov (ISD^ raacbad 

OllTOrl (Btet.}, a TUlag« noted lor It. bUtm. 
Mere arg in old aaBla of frtnce Ollvsi aad lb* 
liannltaga of Ifadoma da] Tonoan. « ■ Ugfa 
rook; HCaLlad fromthe melHrt cUrot 'y>'»^ 
f.iondad 3»4 bc, and dMroTtdbr the Barnowa. 
PartiDt lUwaLli. ftB.,arel<tt; and pott fall iritli 

^ B1HCILLOS4 (pnpoUilon, 18.M8), Bear thB EItit 

Hllaizo (Btat.), IpoiroUtion, II.OM), on tba 

710 feat blgh. It tennlnatw In Cape HUbem 
r Blanco, naar which DuUlo. obtained ■ naval 
•Irtory over the Carthaghilanf; which bIvm nanu 

It on the iliip hrJon the Soroian Caitle, wtaklk 



eililng ■ 



loted Id 

IBB chuiob, 






The churchei and o 



nntol, which 
ra. Cilolmi, 
;0 feat high. 



of a Roman amphllheatre, of the Aqua CumelU 
Aqneducl, 4 miiailong, and iDine tamlis. Taaaj 
lab. anebovlea. iBrdbiei. and the best wheat in th> 






reihaBall 



to fHiJiantl iiad Pcnrta Empodataa 

Inland 
Ce&lft (Stat) - pop, 1 1 , 1 81— th e uiclant Ctplia!- 

a Oolhlc itrnctura. bnllt by Bogcr ot Sicily. In 
■ntHnde for hlj dellvaranca from tblpwreck. 1181 . 
It 1> 2t>i feat by n feet, and baa two eDnipcnoit' 
Kelt towen. Dlll(eii« from hen to Ollrell. thi^ 



aMHTi 




Whin hi) ihlrt Tu dried he irmi M bnrd tbB 
Tutorl to direct th« fire od the latirai. A 
qiunlECy of amaiTmlllon, Iblrt^ i:uu, Aztd other 



which Qarlbftldl resimt/Dlly dt 



if HeptanK now replaced by ■ 



ud llgfa- 



MEsenrA (sut.) 

PopatMlDfl asm). IBl.OOO, wlih nhnrbi. 
ifi**.- Ll Vlllori.( TrJn«ri»i Vme.Ui dl 
Pirlel; rEnrapa. 



soloo)' ol U»»uilui> f tooi the P? 
here. The Romans made It tl 
liland. Etna la N miles distant 
(Htuable and jieallh; onlng to tti 






utlqnlty. most part ol It having ueen reauiu ai 
the earthqnjikeol 1783. which swallowed op40, 

•n aniidiltheaire resting an the shore and halt n 
Dp the hill behhid 1(. From thU It look) on 



ilch la h. 



to Ihs o 



do 


COTH 


Hbnldl.thoCo 
etl. with the la 
* other. 


U one end and 


i" 




fiiei 


ui^ii 

taint and 



m the lett by Faro Point, a 



name. Que are the CItladeUa, LlghtlioDH, and 
QrtlB^S.ealntoie. 

Ml otAaold HiNa, tl dMt 






fa]walki,andproipecta. Living Iscbeap; Mi Itouu 
arelarReand gwd.- wiri It has greatly tMrovat 



SJ;:. 



of Analrla, bj 
re has Scrpotl 



eulptnr. 



■soil (IM7), 



It by B 



Xand bin toa ttr- 
I haa been tpoffeil 
l>y frennait restoratloni. It hat a detachnl 
caaipiiDlle! and Ig caied In black and vhlta 
cnirble, and ornamented with mosaics, bM-Itilefi, 
nd palntlnge- Some gnoi earrings anmnnd Ihv 

domed with prcdoas stones; and a pOlpK OBTVad 
fOaglnl. TheyboeM here of a>affraflMrs,ar 
nti%raph Letter of Ibi Virgin, traosUMtf iUr 
reek, by St, Panl, fr<Hn Ibe original H 



oin IhaMeasenlana. II te ^led "ei Bl(nM«>- 
Ijmli anno £111 noatrt XLII," and b bdlered to ba 
the bivenlliiD of C. LaKarls. Ebt fbandcr of the 
library here; bnt lt4 authenliciCy hsa be«i stHtUr 
Llefended by Ihs Jeanit, Melchlor ir----'— ■- - 



K festival in H* k 



The CrteifivB, S. 
lo. Thal'r 
iTHgBio, m 



Eici took place }■ 

anCra haa a marble Virgin, by Calawech; ' 
iDsf by Oaglnli and ■ Nathhy. by A. 
about IGID)— an aniit who dlapiised l4 <k 
ifn critls (a tUa work \i% a Ww lnn^fa^ 



SiSO 



BBADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 9. 



8. Annvnziata de" CatalarU is an ancient mosque 
converted into a Norman church, and has been 
restored. 

8. OregoHo, attached to a nunnery which com- 
mands a fine view, has good pictures, by Guercino, 
Antonio Riccio, and others. 

Santa Maria de Qraffeo is the church or cathe- 
dral of the Greek Archpriest of Sicily. Here is a 
bas-relief by Delia Robhia, with a Library of Greek 
MSS., &c., founded by C. Lascaris. 

At the Capttchin Church, on Monte de^ Capncini, 
outside the town, is a Nativity, by M. A. Cara- 
Taggio. This is also a fine point of view. 

The University has a Library of 20,000 volumes, 
and includes a Museum and Picture Gallery, the 
latter contains works by Sicilian artists, especially 
Antonello da Messina. 

The Ospedale Civico has a quantity of majolica 
vases from Urbino. 

The best view of the city is from Villa Rocca 
Guelfonia (fee to porter). 

The Vara festival, when the Assumption and 
the victory of Count Roger over the Saracens are 
observed, takes place 15th August. 

The Fata Morgana (i.e.. Sea Fairy), otherwise 
the mirage, is observed here occasionally, when a 
particular state of the atmosphere over the sea 
brings distant objects hito view, or places them in a 
distorted and inverted position. 

At Faro Point, the Strait is only 8,500 yards 
wide, but very deep ; and the current runs strong, 
especially with a southerly wind. The old king- 
dom of the Two Sicilies was called *^ Domini j di 
quk dal Faro," and "Dominij di 111 dal Faro," ».«., 
the dominions on this side of the Faro (Naples) 
and that side of the Faro (Sicily). 

In 1860, Garibaldi, after the convention with 
Kaplcs, made Messina the base rf his operations 
against the mainland. Fathers Gavazzi and 
Pantaleo helped the cause by preaching in the 
open air. Two of the GencraKs attendants were 
ecclesiastics — Gusmaroli, who had served as chap- 
lain to tlie Mantua Volunteers, and afterwards 
fought against the French at Rome, in 1849 ; and 
Froscianti, a Capuchin friar. Faro Point was the 
head-quarters of his flotilla of fishing tx>ats for 
crossing over to Calabria. 

Here Captain Forbes, who joined as an amateur, 

found Garibaldi in a little room like a cabin, with 

a trestle bed, two stools and a box, no table, a 

sword on one nail, and a spare shirt and trousers 

on another. The visitor sat on a stool, while his 

host took a comer of the bed. On the 8th August 

he sent Missiri to surprise Altafiumara, a strong 

well-built foi*t, opposite Faro, with 200 picked n^en. 

TbejT failed to take it, but grot on to Aspromonte 

rrMch ovorhangB Regglo, spreading the revolu- 

//c?a/ and wcro Joined by 2,000 Calabri&ns' The 

S2f ^^^^/^^ ^aa BO alarmed that he sent a 

•^//?' ^ ■^''^"/i f'"' * proposal tvAsalsd made 

^^^^J to Onrlbam offeridg blm the use of 



50,000 Neapolitan trodns and the navy, to conquer 
Venice, If he would only bo content with Sicily. 

Garibaldi left Sicily quiet and peaceable. The 
officials took the oath to Victor Emmanuel, and 
kept it; taxes were paid, property was safe, 
and there were no slgfns of reaction. 



Palermo to Trapanl by Oalatafiml (for 
Segesta), CaBtelvetrano (for SellnnnteX 
and Marsala. 

Rail to Trapani in about 7 hours. To Alcamo- 
Oalatafimi, for Segesta, in 3| to 4 hours. To 
Castelvetrano, for Selinunte, in 4 to 4} hours. 

The Florio-Rubattino (Navigaziono Generate 
Italiana) steamers run to Syracuse once a week, 
Calling at Trapani, Marsala, Mazzara, Sclacca, 
Porto Empedocle, Pal ma, Licata (see next roate\ 
Terranova, &c., in about 8 days, stopping a certain 
time at each port, the longest stays being at 
Trapani (II hours) and Licata (8 hours\ at other 
ports only about an hour. They are not quite 
regular in their arrivals. 

N.B. — Those visiting Segesta should telegfraph 
to Salvatore Denari, at Calatafimi, for carriage, 
or horse, or mule to me^ the train. 



Milea. 

San Lorenzo 7 

Capaci 14 

Oarini 17 

Partinico 82^ 

Balestrato ..40 

Castellammare 45} 

Alcamo-Calataflmi.. 5l| 

Gibellina 58f 

Castelvetrano 75 



Miles. 

Campobello 80| 

Mazzara 89| 

Bambma 964 

Marsala 103} 

Spagnuola 106 

Ragattisi 110 

Paceco 1 18f 

Trapani 123 



From Palermo the line passes among the hillt, 
with occasional views of the sea, to Oarini (Stat.*) 
the modem successor of Iccari, an ancient town 
destroyed by Nlcias, and the birth-place of the 
beautiful courtezan Lais, who became one of his 
captives. Thence to 

Partinico (Stat.)— pop., 21,000— which has a 
Capuchin convent, with a sepulchre full of dried 
skeletons. 

Running near the sea, views are obtained over 
the Bay of Oastellammare (StatX and of the 

Jiills beyond it, extending to Capo S. Vlto, which 
is marked by a castle-looking church on the top. 

Al'camo-Calataflmi (Stat.) (Sicilian— ^ireo- 

mu) is a Saracen town (population of the Commune, . 
87,700), as its name indicates, founded In the 
ninth century. It is a long street, of churches, 
convents, and red brick houses, havhng a gloomy 
Moorish look, and stands under Monte Bonlfato. 
Vehicles meet the trains for both towns. 

GSLlatafimKpopulation, 10,000) was the only town 
on tbe V%laivA, «xwp\.^wiV«v^v -wMch eparad the 
FrcncYi Vn\iab\latv\» \t^ \\» ttiwa*Bt^ <A ^^^^^V^ 



^OUte 42.3 SICILY^MBBSINA, CALATJkFIMI, gBLlNUS, HABSALA. 



esi 



Ibnildings. Hdre Qaribaldi obtained his first victory 
x>rQT the Royal troops on 16th May, 1860, on his 
Advance from Marsala. 

To the north of this are remains of the Greek 
city of Segesta or Egeste, which, for its fidelity to 
the Romans in the Punic wars, was presented by 
Scipio with a celebrated colossal statue of Demeter. 
The pro-consul Verres took it away, and thiS was 
one of the charges brought against him by Cicero, 
In Verrem. Segesta was destroyed by the Saracens 
in the ninth century. It has some good sulphur 
springs. There are remains of the walls, and .of a 
Theatre (with twenty rows of steps) of the ancient 
city, in a perfectly solitary spot among the hills ; 
but the most remarkable relic is a Temple of Ceres, 
or Demeter, which stands facing them across the 
valley. It is in the Doric style, 176 feet by 78, and 
each of its thirty-six columns is 28 feet high, and 
still in good preservation. 

To visit Segesta and Selinxmte (below), leave 
Palermo by earlp morning train, have a carriage 
to meet you at Alcamo-Calatafimi Station (hotel- 
keeper will telegraph) ; the drive takes two hours, 
and then walk, or ride, one hour. Return to 
station for afternoon train to Castelvetrano. 
Next day drive to Selinunto, allowing several 
hours for the temple, and return to Palermo by 
afternoon train. If ladies in the party, telegraph 
also for horses for the final ascent to Segesta. 

Castelvetrano (Stat.), or "Castedduvitrame," 
as the Sicilians call it (population, 20,068), is an old 
town on a rock, with an old castle. It has some 
pictures in the Churches of S. Giovanni and S. 
• Domenico; a Palace of the Monteleone family, 
and a Museum of Antiquities. Hotel Bixio. 

Selinus or Sellniyite, was founded by Greek 
settlers, B.C. 628. The oldest city was destroyed 
and the walls razed in B.C. 409; two years later 
another city was built, bat it never regained its 
ancient splendour. There are ruins of several 
temples and fortifications, a theatre, and a necro- 
polis. The metopes, and other sculptured remains, 
are in the Museum at Palermo. One of the temples 
is almost the largest Greek temple known, measur- 
ing 870 by 176 feet. Excavations are being made. 
An introduction from the director of the Museum 
at Palermo should be brought. Malaria renders 
the night air unhealthy in summer. This was the 
place where the Saracens made their last stand 
against King Roger. The name is supposed to be 
derived from the Greek selinon^ wild parsley, 
which is still very abundant here. 

From Castelvetrano there is a diligence road to 
Glrgentl, passing by Sciacca and Porto Empe- 
docle, a somewhat fatiguing excursion of over 60 
miles, to enjoy which a traveller should be strong 
and acquainted with the dialect. 

Cross the Belice, the ancioit Hypsa, where 
Timoleon defeated the Carthaginians; and pass 
among aloe, olive, pistachio, uidothei' trees, to 

Sdacca (population, 19,966), on a steep cliff, 
neur the Thermal SelititmtituiB, or hot sulphur BatkuK 
iu>(i0rMfpfe deU& GioauQmti, w))icU rises t^boye 



< 



it. These springs are grood in paralysis, skin 
diseases, &c., and remains of ancient baths and 
pipes are still visible near them. There are several 
decayed palaces and buildings of the middle ages. 
It was celebrated for its vases. Pottery of a light 
kind is still made here. 

Much com is stored for exportation in large 
caves hollowed in the cliff; and it has also a trade 
in sardines, pistachio nuts, <fcc., and a coral fishery. 
About 26 miles south-west is the site of Oraham** 
Island, or. Julia Island ; which suddenly rose out 
of the sea in 80 fathoms, in August, 1831, to the 
height of 100 feet, and sank down to the sea level 
by October. Scott landed on it at his visit to It<ily. 
It was not near any shoal. The cliffs were lime- 
stone (I mile round); some of the fossils are at the 
London Geological Society. 

Sciacca will also eventually be accessible by 
rail from Palermo. This is now open (42^ miles) 
as far as Corleone, passing through Mic ilmeri and 
Villafrati. Near the latter place are the baths of 
Cefala Diana, used by the Saracens, close to tho 
Castello di Diana, on ft high hill. 

Corleone (Stat.), a town of 16, 000 inhabitants, 
dating fi-om the times of the Saracens. 

From Sciacca to Girgenti, 40 miles, through a 
picturesque country, passing Montallegro (about 
half way), with a poor inn, and thence to Porto 
Empedocle, where the train to Girgenti may be 
taken. 

Caxnpobello (Stat.) and the Cave di Cusa, the 
quarry from which the marble was taken to build 
the ancient and flourishing Greek city. 

Mazzara (Stat.), pop., ld,000, an old Saracen 
town, with a cathedral, having nine old maible 
tombs in it, a castle, and other buildings. Count 
Roger had a castle here. It gave name to one of 
the old divisions of the island, Yal di Mazzara. 

MABSA'LA (Stat.) 

Botds: Albergo Centrale ; Leone; Trinacria. 

Pop., 40,255, with suburbs. A bishop's see, near 
Capo Doeo, on the site of the Phoenician LUyhseum; 
now the depot for Marsala wine. The old port, 
from which Scipio embarked for the second Punic 
war, was destroyed by Don John of Austria, in the 
sixteenth century, to keep the pirates out of it ; 
and a new harbour was made in 1806 for the wine 
trade. It is sheltered by the island of S. Pantcleo, 
in the '^Stagnone" on which was the Carthagi- 
nian city of Motya, which was be:>iogcd and 
destroyed by Dionysius of Syracuse 397 B.C., 
when the catapult was used, for the first time. 
Here Dr. Schliemann discovered remains of a 
wall and two gates, with pottery— some Phoeni- 
cian, rough and unpainted ; some Greek, and 
beautifully painted. Traces of aqueducts and 
tombs remain at Marsala, and the Town Hall has 
a Punic inscription from Motyav tt \s. <i'\ 'shJissK 



M 



BKADSHAW'i If ALT. 



[SeetioB 9. 



Martftla wtnei eamt Into iiotloa lA ISM^ whoi 
Kt'lson introdnoed them Into the fleet. There are 
tAx wine ttorns here, loarof which are Rnfflish 
houees. WoodhouRe'i, the largeMt. looki like a long, 
low castle, and nt many at 20.00<i pipee are kept in 
■t'ick. ** The rineyardit ex- end along the coast for 
about 34 niilen, and I'i miles inland. Tue S'il is 
re* y similar to that of Xer« z, an absorbent spongy 
•ob^tance, loose, always fresh and open, note «king. 
An impreitsio prevails that Mursala is grown on a 
volcanic soil, and has a 8nli)hnrfK)na flavour, but 
there is no sulphur within 60 miles of the places 
where it is produced; not even in France is more 
attention paid to the vines than in many of the 
vineyards in this district. If the demand arose 
there would be little difficulty in making double the 
present quantity, for there are thousands of acres 
suited to the vine/'— (Shawns Wine, the Vine, and 
the Celfar). Sometimes th** wine is called Bronte, 
from Nelson^s estate under Mount Etna; and it 
is shipped in considerable quantities to oth<>r 
countries, to assist in making up sherry and 
Madeira. 

Here Garibaldi landed, ifth May, 1860, with the 
1,007 mat and six guns, from steamers, the Piemonte 
and Lombardo. He was chased by two Neapolitan 
war steamers, which contented themselves with a 
distant cannonade, sotting ftre to the vessels which 
he had abandoned. With his small force of vete- 
rans he was now face to face with 50,000 Neapo- 
litan troopfl and a fleet of 900 guns dispersed round 
the coast. He soon proceeded to hoist the tricolour 
and assume the dictatorship of Sicily. 

Trapanl (Stat.), pop.,89,000, under Mnns Eryx, 
is the ancient Drepanum (h scyihe), a fortified an<i 
compara'ively well-built town. Hotel t: Cinque 
Tiirri; l<eone d*Oro. Several good churches; a 
Cspuchin Convent, containing the mummies of 
decf'ased brethren; Pictnre Oxilery; Biblioteca 
Fardeliana, in the Town Hall, which is a handsome 
bnilding, faced by statues of Pliilip V. and Victor 
Amad'-us; a College; several Palace^ and a Fort. 
It stands on a peitinsul i facing Farign<«Tia and other 
Islands ot th^^gHdes group, and behind i' rises the 
mountain, 2,' 00 feer higti, once cowned by the 
famous Temple of Venus Eryetna, which rivalled in 
•plendour that of Paphos, and was imit<ited by 
another at Rome. The Castle and Vi'latre of S. 
Oiuliano occupy the site of Eryx, which Hamilcar 
desrroved, ana then m<»ved its inhabitrtnts to Dre- 
panum, on the sea-shore below, where Anciiises died, 
acrordingto Virgil, who styles the coasi *'i]la>t<- 
bllis." There are few rcmHins of it, but Vcnus's 
doves still haunt the nelirhbourhood. Near the 
prison -nd the pits, called Pozzo di Venerc, there is 
a magnificent prospect. The Ilarhoiir of Trapani is 
a good one., and is guarded by the Columbara 
Tower to the we^t. Good ^umach, salt, tunny. 
Mnchorie^ and roral are among the products; and 
U/jss a repatBtion for mnking good cameos. 



The prlion of SaaiA Caterhut crowns the top of Iti 
highest hill, 1,100 feet above sea. Tunny fiafa arf 
catigilt here, and the fata morgana is aometimea 
seen. Here the Romans defeated Hannibal in a sea 
fight, and ended the sieond Panic war, B.C. */01. 
Levavzo (ancient Buccina) fs about 9 miles long, 
and 8 miles fiomtiie land. It is hilly, ndprodueei 
corm wine, and oil. Maritimo (or HierO), nbovt 
25 miles distant, is another state prison, wSth ■ 
hilly surface. 




Palermo to Olrgentl and Porto Empedoel«, 
▼la Boccapalnmba. Lercara, Aoqnaviva. 
and Aragona-Caldare. 

Palermo to Termini, as in Route 41. Shortly 
after leaving here the line turns to the south, ana 
follows the course of the Flume Torto to beyond 
Bocoapaliunba (Stat), which is the Junctton 
for the line to Catania. Passengers for oirtreiitl 
change CHrriages. The Ime runs almost eotirelf 
through a hilly dis>rict to Ara#01ia-0aldar« 
(Stat.), see next page. From here it Is 6| milea to 

OntGBVTI (Stat.), 

Population, 19,880. 

iro<tfb.—Des Temples; Belvedere. 

Resident British and American Viee-Coneuls, 

The modem city stands above the ancient 
Agrigentum, on a hill 9M feet high, where the 
Greek citadel stood. The present town has little 
worth notice, except the Cathedral, whieh wm 
built by the Normans out of a Temple of Minerva, 
and has a Madonna, by Guide, and a fine old* 
SarcoiriiagaBi with an ancient baa-relief of a Boat 
Hunt. 

The beautifully situated Greek city of Atroffoi 
was founded six centuries before Christ. It fell 
successively under the power of Phalarii, tha 
tyrant, whose brazen Bull is so cdebrated; of the 
Syracusans and Carthaginians; of Timoleon, and 
then of the Romans, who sent S5,000 of its foptor 
lation into slavery. At one time it namtMred 
200,1-00 within the walls, which were 9 or 10 milea 
in circuit, and were nearer the sea than the moden 
town. It was famous for its wealth ami ItLKOTf, 

Its antiquities consist chiefly of the remaiaa 
of Tempfes, now lying about in ruinous heapi^ 
and of which only the ground plan can be traeed. 
The most important was the *Temp!e of /mpUtr 
Olympus, commenced. 6th cent. B.C., which was tha 
largest in Sicily, and the largest Greek templa In 
the world, after that of Ephesus. It was 860 feet 
long, 180 broad, and was surrounded with I>ori0 
plUam, each shaft being about 18 feet diameter, 
and bh feet high, with flutings deep enough to bold 
a man in the hollow, (tely tlie basement oi thle 
temple, with two enormous capitals of Its pUlara, 
and fragments of three caryatides, whieb w«t 
25 feet high, are to be seen. 

Tha T^mfla «{f J>iM Lea U Kfa hM |k|rif»ir 



Routes 48 and 44.] 



8I0ILY— etBGBNTI, LtOlf 1, NOTO, JLYOtiA< 



S88 



same size, and nearly entire, was formerly used as 
St. 6re^ory*8 Church. These two stand on the 
rock above the plain. Of the Tempfes o/ASaeufapitu 
and of Castor and Pollux, three and four columns are 
left. The former contained a statue of Apollo 
which Verres took from the town. One column is 
left of the great Tempfe of Hc'cufes. At the 
Convent of S. Nicholas is a fragment called the 
Chapel of Phalai'is. 

Near the Temple of Jupiter are traces of the 
public Fishponds. The Tomb of Therou is a pile, 
35 feet square, in two storeys. The city walls cut 
out of solid rock are traced, and there are remains 
of two arched gates. 

At Maccalubi and Bissama^ 4 to 6 miles, are mud 
springs. 

From Aragona-Oaldare (StatX a line runs 
via Racalmuto to Canicatti, Caltanisetta. and S. 
Caterina-Xirbi, see Route 46. From Canicatti, 
81 miles by rail to 

Licata (Btat.) or Alicata (population 15,718), 
a port at the mouth of the Salso or Himera^ the 
site of the ancient Phinfia ; with a castle hanging 
over the sea, and the remains of a building called the 
Castled Phalaris, on Monte Licata, a hili adjobi- 
ing, formerly called Ecnomot. Rail from Licata, 
17 miles, to TerrtflM>va (see next Route). 



OlxiTOtiti to Syracnse by Palma, Licata. 
Terranova, Modica, and Noto; or by 
Terranova, Caltagirone, and Lentini. 

Diligence daily to Palma (population, 15,00A), a 
town kh I rounded by ahnoiid groves, f-om which 
about 12 miles by horse or mule to Uoata (see 
above), thence rail to 

TerranOVa (population, 10,793), fonnded by 
Frederick II., in the thirteentli century, out of the 
ruins of G^a^ where iBschylus died. 

From Tcrranova, two Routes may be taken to 
Syracuse:— I St, towards the coast, by Vittoria, 
Modica, and Noto, about 86 miles. 2nd, over the hills, 
by Calta^irone, Palagonia, and Lentini, 80 miles. 

First floMte.— ViTfORU (population, 17,000) is 
a great place for cattle and bees. On the coast is 
ScoGLiTTi, on the site of Camarina, near a small 
lak e, which bubbles with sulphurous gas. Between 
Vittoria and Modica is Raousa. a town of 32,0u0 
iuhabitants, the ancient Hjfbfa Heraa. 

Modlca(population, 38,390) yields the best cattle, 
wool, cheese, and butter in the island. 

Noto (Stat), population 12,629, the head of 
one uf the seven provinces of the island, rebuilt 
since the destruction of an older town by the earth- 
quake of 1693. It gives name to one of the three 
popular divisions of the island, named Vai di Noto; 
the whole of Td^ch belongs to the tertiary fomft- 

iViibig &0M of i^ia&m still /ound in tkttifliik 



ivurtasTMu. 4^>nM« or JO miles froriitWit|rt\VK%* 






Cape Passaro and Porta Palo, at tli« flOtith aft^e of 
Sicily. The way to It crosses the Abisso, or £7oro, 
near the site of Heforum, and passes a half-mined 
pjrramld, called Pizzuta, about 80 feet high, t(«ar 
the Falconara or Assinaros; said to mark the spot 
where Niclas was defeated by the Syracusans. 

Ayola (Stat.), population, 10,754, where the 
Sugar-cane can be grown. Cross the Ca>«sibi1i, at 
the mouth of which Demosthenes, the General of 
the Athenians, was defeated. Hence to Syracuse, 
17 miles by rail. 

Second Route.— By Caltagirone to Syracuse is 
across picturesque hills, done only by mule or horse. 

Caltagirone (population, 38,630), 3,050 feet 
above the sea, well built, reached by a winding 
and difficult road. It contains a fine promenade 
and market place, a lyceum, and several palaces. 
Terra-cotta figures, in native costumes, may be got 
here. Etna is in view. From this there is a direct 
route to Noto and Syracuse, vid the wild and 
picturesque Valley of the Canxaria, to Vizainl, 
Buccheri, Ac. At Vizzhii is a bed of oyster shells, 
20 feet thick, between beds of lava above and 
below it; a fact referred to by Lyell. PalaXaolo. 
the anciwt Acrm^ has a mass of Greek tombs aMd 
antiquities. Hence by diligence to Syracuse, 
daily, 27 miles. 

SIRACUSA, EngllSb BTRAOUSB (Stat) 

Eotels : Locanda Vittoria ; Locanda del Sole. 

Resident English Vice-Consul^ and Amer. 0. Ageni* 
Steamers of the Florio-Rubattino line. 

A decayed town, with a population of 94,000, is 
all that remains of the ancient Syraeusa^ which was 
the capital of Greek Sicily, and one of the largest 
and most flourishing cities of the old world. It 
had a population of 100,* 00, even down to the 
ninth century, when it was wasted by the Saracois. 
The modem town is confined to the peninsula, or 
Inland of Ortygia, about 1 mile long, between the 
Great and Little Harbours, which was an island 
till joined by a causeway to the mainland. Here 
the ancient Greek city was founded by Coring 
thiaus, B c. 784, and gradually spread itself along 
the neighbouring coast, until Syracuse, with its 
suburbs of Acradina (on the rocks to the north, 
overlooking the present town), Tyche, Neapolis, 
EpipolsB, Olympeium, and Dascon, covered a space 
6 miles by 4, and about 25 miles in circuit. 

These suburbs formed distinct towns, or wards, 
the sites of which are now naked rock, with occa- 
sional traces of walls and streets. The six-gated 
wall was built by Dionysius I., about B.c 400; 
80 stadia were constructed in twenty days, 60,000 
men being employed. 

Modem Syracuse is a bishop's see, with several 
churches, convents, Ac, in its narrow crooked 
streets, which are shut inside walls built along the 
edge of the peninsula. The principal street, Corso 
V. Emanuele, is the cliief promenade. The CMMk 

tU " " 




BRADIBIW S ITALT. 



lutal. 6t. Philip, lUudlng ovtrabith. 
DDtalnlng a coUccllon cf tabHi tiuertp- 
a, tx.^ with a VeiiM Anad^ounSt and 

Driry ia hard by. At tha wr»t aid of 



pspyrua plllnt^ CDcloud lu a buln. Tbe Pala 
Uontalto Is a ^ood Bpeclmen of archltecture- 



Liltl« Harbonr. n tl 
AwTIQniltCB.— In ac 



Somo Greek loserl 
blind Did Tlmalm 



niwitbpoplan. Ac. 



thli ir« the 
qnarriei he 



The Howe, or Palace a/aixtg Bedi, 1b put of the 
laLha of AffathDcles, having arcboE mada of cUr 

A tomb near the Ear of Dlonvilnt It called tha 
nimi Bf Arrhimnlti. nho wa> killed daring the 
bree jean' alege or blockade, which ended B.C. 311. 



have gerved ai ^aies lor Greek. Soman. ChrUtlaa, 
alleys, «ome milea long, cut In tha soft atone, wltb 

the mUDlh of'one ikelclon. Near tbli an Sta. 
Lucia's vlth an ancient Ronnd Chnrch. B. Mar- 
zlano's Chnpel, In a crypt under 8. QIOTannl, dates 

At tbe Batha oi Daphne, or Diana (maiked by 
some columns near tlio rnUway station^ the 
Emperor Oonstani was murdered, a.d. iU). 

A little way np the Anapo ri.er (crose the OreM 
Harbour by iwat). on a litHTich ol It called the 
J^ma, amone palms and oleanders. Is the Cliiau 

papj/Fut, eti^hmlly lirouj^ht from Ksynt. Bonn 
alight remains of (Be famona Olym 



;. S7S-S16. St. Pan 



Ullca I Hllaa 

I 18} Blcocca (Junctloa 

89 tot Palermo. Ac) Hi 

la Mi I Catania h] 

Syracuse, followlnn the eoaat, (he rail 
le reinolna of Uegara UybtKa, on the Sinv 
t^ui^Tc^v. II* LJiinr v.flv^Bt-.c .uiiMi Lkuia^v I >i et^i-njsf J, au ftncleut town, destroyed by Oelob 
"■erolmjirUoiiodoudslatycdi and here indMarcellun. and ■tandinffnearlhemoannlnsof 
c up Miae Boiaaa citizens. Iron rings lljblo, formerly celebrated for Ihdr honey. Uci,- 
be oluerred. Xcu the Latomla del i.iu (to ibt l^l^.-nhue honey Waa ooca nodneed, 
no/Dfonrima'agrMt l»Ooah\\Y,TOHwAWSH. &« VSK «]t<k aldl ^ 



Verrea s/iuc np tome Soman cltlzaii. Iron rlngi 
»™ «//// to be obterred. Nctr ttao Latomla de. , 

^ (•^vd Mi^l^a^^f^ la riewpt (fio »w- \ the 5^t Vi 



sidiLT—stiticdsK, icotrailA, eilksiA., u. stiti. 



.AmrasUtStaL), Q<oi>iilBtlon.II.I>00).'the'i 

ot the clW of XipUmi' "" ' " 

biiilt by FrMerlCk Sa 
cmtDD'. It hm been refill 
oT 1693. nlilch EWal1<»v«l 
Inhsblianti. The ^Igbts 



;".r£ 



LSUUUt (Stat.), population Il.OW, near the 

KorceJr sny maslns^eilat. Near b'ere is the 
BlTiere dl l*nlldi, the Inreo* lafcr In Sicily, 
■tagnant and nnhoalthy in iDnimer. VAlUTOU 

Stat.) Dlllgacce Id Callaglrono (pafe S8-(>. 
tu this. Blcocca (Stftt.). where the ]1d« Irom 
GirgentI and Palermo fal[ In. Then koi-ms the 
Plauo, or great plabi of Catania, whleh ia a vast 

OATAHU <Btat.) 
The anQiait CTWonf, fonndod by the Greefca. mtsi 

fftUU: Oiand Hotel dl CaUnla: DmnlbDi to the 



It haa repeatedly sntfered from the»c 
carthqnakes; oneof nhlch, In I69*,oti 
(he city, and catTlei off IB.OOO poopia. F 



a, thoogh 



Hetmta door of (J» eleTColh ceataiy. 



lent lava fflipionf, 

.0 pru™ In which 
by St. Potor, hat a Greco- 



iSrMta Maria Solmda and 6. 

<jbBi ja a ropy of the Holy Honse i 

a. yicala iTArenaU a large and hlj 
:haroh,»lthatallcnpola, Itwasat. 
ind very Urge Benedictine Mona 
liter the eanhqoalte of 1693, but dls 



of tl 



■oseupauftootled 

fomdcd^l4«^'''A]lo '"''",''.*«''' Univeraiti, 
Library.' AUhePaliuaCtmrnuaaleliiOiH^al 
The AfiaeB BiKoH, (bonded, ITM, by tha Prince 
of Blacari. conalata chiefly of objects foond iii the 
Uland : as bionzeMnacrlpt lonMno«alcM>aa-rel ief J, 



w Olympus, 01 



ItuatyU; 






■II ka, leather, wool, c< 



MOUNT iTHA 
Ir Etna, the highest volcano in Europe, 10,874 
eet above the level o( the aea, ia w m'flej from 
.atania from wtilch iti outline may be dlsUnetly 
ollowed. sloping up into the blue sky at the sum- 



call It Hnngibellc 

of Monte (Italian) andJi 

fyiug a nil ' ' ' " 



a nioontaln. It it a vast but gently slophigr 
■egnlar cone, cutlivalcd to adistaneo ofM 
M..... up the ^de from the bottom. There are three 



(he botlom, IS 



see 



HIUDBHAw'a ITALt. 



[Bectlou &* 



Al thf iMMii ol 9,740 fMi it tlM t>kilo<iel tafo, 
• TfMB 9 omM round, on wbi<h tUnd th« CaiA 
jnglese (now «a ob8«rvator7) and Torr« del 
Filotofo; the latter, built, or named after 
Empedocles, who threw himself in the crater 
about B.C. 400, was inhabited by the Emperor 
Hadrian, on his visit to the mountain. From 
this plain rises the steep cone, 1,000 feet high, 
covered with snow from the end of October to the 
middio of June, and havin^r the crater at the 
top. The crater is 2 to 4 iiiiies round, and 600 to 
800 feet deep. About eighty small cones surround 
the base of the large one, nearly all which are of 
ancient date; many of them were formed in 1809 
and 1811, and thirteen have burst out since 1882. 
Two of the largest are Monte Minardo. 700 feet 
high, near Bronte ; and Monte Rossi, 460 feet high 
and 2 miles round, near Nicolosi. 

Above sixty Eruptions are on record, of which 
ten happened before Christ ; twelve down to a.d. 
1500; and seventeen in 1600-1700. There were 
eruptions in 1842 and 1843 ; and the latest was on 
80th January, 1865, when four new craters and 
nine lava streams burst out near Monte Framento, 
threatening Piedmonte, Linguagrassa, Ac. Pin- 
dar is the first who speaks of it as a volcano. The 
eruption of b.c. 396 stopped the Carthi^Tinians on 
their march to Syracuse along the coast. That of 
A.D. 1669 came from Monte Rossi, and destroyed 
Nicolosi and fourteen other villages, some of which 
bad 3,000 to 4,000 population. The lava covered a 
■pace of 6 leagues, and was in some parts 1,000 
feet tbiok- A stream ran by Catania, 15 miles to 
the sea, whore its bed was 600 yards wide and 13 
deep. It curl«4 over the wall of the town, and 
then cooled, forming a solid cascade still visible, 
60 feet high (see page 385). It lasted 4^ months. 
The eruption of 1792, which went on for a whole 
year, destroyed Zalferana. Another, in 1832, burst 
from Monte Lepre, 8 miles from Bixmta, and sapped 
only about 1 mile short of it. In 1879, lava htreams 
burst out from new craters and ran down towards 
Francavilla, Randazzo, Paterno, &c. The 1^86 
eruption lasted several mofths, and threatened 
Kicolosl, but merely destroyed some vineyards 
and an old convent. 

On the east side, towards the sea, is the VcU di 
^ve, a desolate amphitheatre, 3 miles round, made 
by th0 Ift'VA and tufa deposits, edged by lava pre- 
cipices, 1,000 to 3,000 feet high, and traversed by 
dykes of basalt and trachyte. One picturesque spot 
is a deep notch of 800 feet, towards Val di Tripolo. 
It Is destitute of trees or water. The lava is seen 
in great waves. Masses of snow are often found 
under the lava, which, coming in the hot state, has 
eooled over the snow, and kept it from melting. 

Ascent of Etna from Catania to see the 

Sun rise. This ascent can be made in the sprinK" 
of the year with proper precaution, but the best 
time is from July to October. The chief obstacles 
are the cold piercing winds and the difficulty of 
breathing at the top ; obstacles which are common 
to all high mountains. Guides, certified by the 
Italian iDplne Club^ can be had at the office. Via 
JUBiiala^ 2¥7t crstH^coioB], And so others •hoold bo 



employed. ThoyAroaotbOTi]idtooAi3TllfiCAfi,for 
#hlch a tiorter or mttU It Mtitilnd. Thert it s 
conveniMt taHflT and set Of rulM, which should 
be studied. The Ci&po Guidfl decides what gtiidet 
and mules are necessary. Wraps should betaken. 

From Catania it is 3 hours to Nicolosi, by mulOi 
Thence to Casa degV Inglesi, 6 hours ; tmd 1^ hours 
nx>re to the top. Admission to the Casa Inglese, 
8 lire. 

Nicolosi, which is about half-way up the slope 
of the mountain, but only 2,270 feet above sea in 
perpendicular elevation, is a small town (popula- 
tion, 2,700), built of lava, on a bed of ashes, at the 
foot of Monte Rossi, a small crater so called from 
the red scoriae which cover it. It is the largest of 
sixty or seventy small extinct craters in this nel^- 
bourhood, one of which is close to the Qrotto della 
Palomba. At Nicolosi, where there are two small 
hotels, is the Ultizio delle (}uide, and from the 
Capo Guida advice may be obtained about guides, 
mtUes, provisions, charcoal, lights, and ther neces- 
saries, including warm coats and woollen (fomballii 
or leggings. 

Supposing the wind to be favourable, in order to 
see the Sun rise from the top^ a start should be 
made about 8 or 9 in the evoiing. We pass Casa 
del Bosco, at the edge of the Regio del Bosco, and 
reach Casa degV Jnglesi in about 6 hours. It 
stands at an elevation of 9,.'^60 feci, at the base of 
the white snowy cone, or cima^ of the mountain, 
and is so called because rebuilt, 1811, of lava, by 
some English officers, in placed a house erected by 
Gemellaro, the geologist. It has been restoredt 
contains several rooms, with a stable, and is UHed 
as a weather observatory. Mules are left here, 
and the rest of the ascent (about 1,000 feet) up the 
cone must be made on foot, in the face of a keen 
wind and drifting clouds. The View at the summit 
of the crater, if the weather be clear, takes in a 
circuit of about 110 miles radius, including the 
north and east coasts of Sicilv, and the neighbour- 
ing seas. Calabria on the mainland, Stromboli and 
the other I^ip^ri Islands, on all which you look 
down as on a m^p. One striking feature of the 
spectacle is the projection of the mountain's shadow 
thrown over the land to the west, as the sun rises 
up. A walk should be taken round the crater, \i 
the smoke wiU allow, but this, as well as the view, 
can only be enjoyed in calm weather. Etna can 
be seen on some days from Malta, which is 120 miles 
distant. In descending, a visit may be paid to the 
edge of the Val di Bove^ which was all aolaie with 
lava in the eruption of August,' 1859. When 
Brydone visited Etna in 1770, it was commonly 
believed that a "Queen Anne,*' viz., Anne Boleyn, 
was condemned to bum in the volouio, for having 
made her husband, Henry VIII., a fteretic. A 
wiie-rope rail is projected, like that at Vesuvius. 

Circuit of Etna, from Oataala. 

To Misterbianco, Patemb (12 miles from Ca- 
tania), Licodia, Ademb (24mUesX Bronte (85 milesX 
Randazzo (46 miles), Lingoagrossa, Piedimontt, 
Mascali, Giarre, Aci Beale (89 nllwX Uok 
Catania (94 miloii). 



I an Tl<lbt«. 



ntftK Fatarlib U ths rlchwt Isndc 
IriahJ. Through BlmiFB Vin^ wli 

Aduuo Ipopnlmloo, IB.180), the 
ramm. Foil on tha Slmeto lo 



frai.1 one of the Cyclop-, slgnlfylnB ttiniidrr. The 

Bridjnrt, of Cn!telManUce.-HglTesn»nie(onlj) 

pool hoDxes from Hsrsala. In I84I the bo[ Ixts 
Bowed Into a pond, eiiiloiled the wM.r, snd kllltd 

no{,|e rose SKalnut th's SonN, HI they called the 
In sold Uood. Tl.li wa> Monped iritu « Itrong 

RiuiDAizo (popDlntlon, e,3U] has renidnB of an 
Mormin, hal'f-moiqoe style, wllb lome pulnllngs 
listiuus by Qsfltil. The bslldbigt are all of 
wbue me itil nuy be tikai ta Catania or Ueiilna. 

From Oattnl* (Btat>. nunmlng smeoaet ronle 
eni|iIlon<, to ti^e Bay si Logujoa (i-erliu Ulyxu ol 



naoiefrDiNtheitory af^ciiandGWa'aa. Acliwu 
killed by a tact whleti the one-eyed giant. Poly- 
idleniDi, flnng atblm, and win tunud Into a rlitT. 

rarigritmi, or (VcIapAon iilaidt, cloia by, which 
are eeld ta have been thrown ity PolypheQina at 
tjly«wt and hl4 erew, as related by Homer. In the 
Dlnlh bookol tne Odytney. The alltfa con in of 



Acl Beale (Btat.), 



aUm-BlpOBtO (Btat.), ropuloilon. n.SiO. 
nnder Ktoa. fJoln this U It about 3 hours to the 
aseieDt C^mahx ZVn, er Ouwtw df Ctnlo Cimiai, 
■g called Iram Its engnanua slae, aad [ran » i^orj 



MH xmiUi, oulRsb-bitoito. 

that John ol AMcen, Mtb U> aiilt* ef 100 b< 
men. fonnd ihelterlinder lis Brandhta in a st 
It conelstB of Qve treee or tnmki Joined In 
the largeit being if feet ronnd, and the w 



nilt. It li 






HMCall (Blal) 1> near this: after wtaleb 
we erosi the Flume Fnddo. or Culd River, fed by 
Ihe enow on Etna! and Ihen ll,e ancient bed of 
lava wiilch atopped tbe CanheMniann. a.c. SH. Is 
their march lo gyracnse. end obliged Ihem to maka 

tha Onohela, now called the Alcantara. ^«b 
Its Hridgt (Alkantarn) hullt hy th* Saraeana. 
At Cape ScIiIbo. en the ligbt. are traoM of tha 
very old QrecHtowDof JVezoi, tbe first on* plamad 

aiardlnl-TaormiDft (Btat.), pepniaiioa. I.SMi 
lu called IroraGlardlnl.ltie port coTBormlna. Iba 
latter is at the toot of the steep hill, or aCTopolla, 

Taormlna (popolallon, 3,l»0) llei, near Capa 



aken. IDTS, fay Koben Quiward. 
Amonc Ua noticeable bDlldlnei 
rasiio's Cbnrch. on the site of a Otei 
rhlcb they show a letter writte 
liavolo,'' much venerated by tlie 



d here, and landed at Capo d'Aiml, near 
m this to Ma"Blna. the Folorus Monnlalnj oa 

^'a'ld' aiMU, which faeei Regglo end the 
Slre^ro'l'MesaTn" " P««*8aSBtt« (Btat) to 

iBlnatBtat.) ^wBuiaU. 



28d 



Palermo to Messina, \xy road, across tbe 
Island.— The Lipari Islands. 

This route is now for the most part done by rail, 
-which is mach shorter. See Route 41. (6 Siciliau 
niiles=7 English.) 



ISftADSHAW^S ITAtY. 



[Seotion di 



Sicilian miles. 

Misllmeri 9 

Villafrati 21 

Sottovicari 80 

Maganaro 37 

[ToGirgentl,40] 
Fondaco della Gol/a 49 

Vallelunga 68 

Fondaco del L^ndro 60 
Santa Caterina (Str.t.) 79 
[To Caltanisettafst.), 13] 

ViUaro8a(8tat ) 91 

Fondaco della Mise- 

Kicordia 102 

To Castrogiovanui (St ) ] 



Sicilian miles. 
Leonforte (Stat.) 114 

[To Catania by rail] 

Argiro 123 

Regalbuto 133 

Fondaco Ouzzardi...l39 

Ademo 148 

[To Bronte, 12] 
Santa Maria di Lico- 

dia 156 

Patemb , 159 

Malpasso Vecchio ...166 
Catania 173 



Starting from Palermo, and leaving on the right 
Monte Gibilrossa, 2,105 feet high, and Monte 
Grifone, 2,785 feet, we reach 

MisiLMBRi (population, 11,029), or Musitlumeli^ 
as the Sicilians call it. lS*om 

Villafrati (population, 2,856), descend to the 
S. Leonardo River, And rise again to a hciglit of 
1.980 feet. Near Villafrati are the baths of Cef ala- 
Diana. At 

Maoanaro a road turns off to Girgcnti (see 
Route 48), past Biyon a, where petroleum is found. 

Santa Caterina, near which, at Santa Gaterina- 
XirM,. the lines from Palermo and Girgentl 
unite. 

[From here the rail may be followed to 

Caltanisetta (Stat.)— pop., 26,080— the head of 
a province, 1,765 feet above sea, near the centre of 
Sicily. Its name is derived from the Saracen Calta 
and the Greek Nissaion, It stands in a basin of 
hills, one of which, Monte S. Giuliano, is 2,260 feet 
high. Lyceum of Ruggiero Settimo. When this 
town refused to join the rising of 1820, a force of 
2,000 patriots from Palermo took it by assault. 
There are roads from here to Girgentl and Licata ; 
and u Rail is open to them through the sulphur 
districts, via San Cataldo, Serradifalco, Canl- 
Catti (population, 22,000), and Campobello, to 
Licata, page 283.] . 

Villarosa (Stat.) on the main lino and the main 

road towards Catania, in a country producing 

cheese, wine, com, and sulphur. From here the 

road ascends and descends the hills to the south 

aftJberall, TKbJeb proceQ(i» iQ 



Castrogiovanni <8tat)--pop., i6,ooou^n a 

precipitous cliff, 2,600 feet above the sea, at the-, 
centre of the island, on the site of the aixcleat 
Enna^ which for that reason -v^as called th6 havel 
of Sicily. The Norman name was Cattrianni^ 
derived from Ccutrum Ennas; or, more probably, 
from Arabic Kasr-Yanni. Here, in B.C. 134, the 
great Revolt of the Slaves began, originating in the 
cruelties of Damophilus and his wife Megalleda, 
which being followed by a. second Servile War,, 
thirty-two years after, devastated the whole 
island, and was a prelude to the revolt of Spar- 
tacus on the mainland. In the first war, led by 
Eunos, they defeated Jour prietors who were sent 
against them, but were at length destroyed by the 
Consul Rupilius; it was estimated that a millioa 
of slaves perished. 

The noodem town, accessible by omnibus from 
the station in one hour, is a heap of rugged streets 
built among the limestone rocks. Rock-salt U 
found here. It is noted for a great fair and market. 
The buildings include a Cathedral, containing a 
marble candelabrum, said to have come from a 
large Temple of Ceres in the ancient city ; S. Agos- 
tino and other churches ; the ruins of the citadel 
La Rocca, a very ancient building, from which 
there is a grand view ; and an old Castle. Many of 
the neighbouring valleys are deep and precipitous, 
hollowed out into grottoes, once inhabited A short 
distance south Is Pergusa Lake, on whose borders 
Proserpine, gathering flowers, was carried oflTby 
Pluto according to the old mythological story. 

[Left of the main road is Oalasdbetta 
(population, 5,069), on thotop of a rock, 2,580 feet 
high, and some miles north of this: ig Monte 
Artetino, one of the highest peaks in the island, 
4,000 feet above the sea. Here the three ridges 
of mountains in Sicily unite, and divide its surface 
into tlu'ee parts, known as Val do Noto, Val Demone, 
and Val di Mazzara. Hence the island acquired 
its ancient name of Triuacria, and also its crest, 
which is three legs joined, like those of the Isle 
of Man.] 

Leonforte (Stat.), population, 11,523, on the 
rail to Catania has, at the Capuchin Church, a 
Last Judgment, by Fra Beato, with some other 
paintings. Mount Etna Is in view. At 12 miles 
to the north is Nicosia (population, 13,630), with 
its Cathedral and Carmelite Churches, in which 
are some bas-reliefs and statues, by GaginL Rock- 
salt is got here. 

Agira (Stat.) formerly S. Filippo d' Argiro, among 
rocky hills, 2,700 feet above the sea, is on the site 
of Agyrium, the birth-place of Diodorus, the his- 
torian, called SieuluSy and is said to be the place 
where St. Philip the Evangelist died, after preach- 
ing the Ck>spel for the first time in the island. 

The road passes Ragalbuto (population, 8,860), 
on a picturesque height, and Adbrno (population, 
16,000), under Mount Etna. Hence through 
Biancavilla, Patemb, Ac., to Catania (StaC)^ 
Route 42; or r<4 Bronte, Ac, to Kessina (8tat)„ 
Route 41, 



fioute 46.] 



8X0XLT— OABTBOGZOVAKNZ, UPABX 7BLANDB. 



289 



UPABI ISLANDS. 

Th« Lipari Islands are a straggling group of 
volcanic islands, off the nortli-east comer of Sicily, 
from 12 miles to 55 miles north and north-west of 
Cape di Ifilazzo. The nearest is Volcano; the 
most distant are StromboU and Alicori; the 
largest is Idpail, which gives name to the whole 
group. There are twelve islands, or seventeen 
including islets. Population, about 19,000. They 
are the ancient ffaphaUiade*, or JSolia Ituula^ so 
called from JSoluif the god of the winds, whose seat 
was here. 

They are best reached from Messina, by the 
steamers of the Navigasione General Italiana; the 
passage to Lipari requires 6 hours, and r^resh- 
ments for the voyage must be provided by the 
traveller. It is scarcely an excursion for la&es. 

Uparl, SO miles from Milazso, the ancient 
Liparet^ is a bishop's see, governed by a delegate, 
and is about 80 miles in circuit. Several of the 
hills on its surface are extinct volcanoes, as Monte 
S. Angelo, Monte della Guardia, and Monte S. 
Galogero, at the foot of which are some mineral 
springs and vapour baths. Sulphur, alum, obsidian, 
and lava fossils are found. It grows figs, grapes, 
raisins, and currants (which, when dried, are called 
zizib), olives, cotton, Ac, and produces a sweet 
wine, called Malvasia di Lipari. 

The town stands on a hill, on the east coast, and 
has a g^ood hui>our, with a castle, churches, Ac, 
and remains of an ancient bath, near the bishop's 
palace. It was one of the naval ports of the 
Carthaginians; was ravaged by the Turkish corsair, 
Dragut, in 1544, and restored by Charles V. 

Volcano, or Vulcano, the ancient Hiera^ or 
holy, 8 miles south of Lipari, is a barren island, 
distinguished by a volcano which is continually 



smoking, and is said to have sprung up about b.c. 
200. It takes three-quarters of an hour to ascend 
it. Sulphur crystals, boracic acid, and similar 
substances are lu^duced from the crater. Smoke 
is seen to rise in bubbles through the sea in the 
neighbourhood of the island. Vulcan had his 
workshop below, and it was the ancient belief 
that there was a communication between it and 
Etna, the seat of the giant Typhon. Boat from 
Lipari; provisions must be taken. 

flyHTia^ 5 miles ncuth-west of Lipari, is 16 or 18 
miles round, and contains some villages. It was 
called JHdjfmej because of the twin volcanic 
peaks, with a vaUey between them, by which it is 
marked. It yields Malmsey wine, fruit, and 
olive oil. 

FUlcndi, or FiLiciTBi, 10 miles west of Sallna, 
and Alicudi, or Alicuri, 10 miles west of Filicudi, 
are the ancient Pfuenicodes&ndEricodes respectively; 
one so called from being covered with palmettos, 
the other from its heaths. They ore scarcely at all 
cultivated, but neither of them is volcanic. 

Panarla, the ancient Hicesia^ 6 miles north - 
north-east of Lipari, is a small extinct volcano, 
where a few fishermen live, and grow fruit, Ac. 
Five or six small islets, called Lisca, Dottolo, Ac, 
lie between this and 

StrombOli, the ancient Strongyle, about 20 miles 
north-east of Lipari, and 85 miles west of Calabria. 
It is about 12 miles in circumference. Its crater 
is alwajTS active, especially with a south wind, 
and being 8,000 feet high, it serves as a naturai 
Lighthouse for sailors, visible for more than 50 miles 
round. The ascent takes about thi'ee hours. The 
crater is not at the top, but 200 yards below it. It 
inxMluces siUphur, pumice stone, Ac. The village 
of 8. Vincenzo is on the east side. 



t—italy. 



SARDINIA (Sardegna). 



The best starting point for the island is Qenoa. 
Steamers of the Navigaziane Oenemle IkUiana leave 
there and Leghorn weekly, and touch at Porto 
Torres, Terranova, Cagliarl, Ac; also from Civittf 
Vecchia, Naples, Palermo, and Tunis. Time from 
Leghorn to Cagliari, 80 hours; from Palermo to 
Cagliari, 22 hours; Naples to Cagliari, 27 hours. 
(See Bradahaw'B Continental Guide.) 

To the traveller, Sardinia is not comparable 
with Corsica, either for scenery or accommodation, 
and hardly for climate. The roads are, as a rule, 
safe, except when some local circumstances give 
rise to brigandage. Travellers must be prepared 
to rough it; and be "steeled against vermin, 
indifferent fare, and intemp&ie.'' — Fo&esteb'b 
KanMes. 

This intempefie, which has given the island a 
bad name from classical times downwards, is the 
malaria generated by excessive vegetation and the 
heat of the plains, between June and November, 
when the inhabitants move up the hills to avoid 
it. For the remainder of the year, i.e., winter nnd 
spring, which is the proper time for strangers, the 
climate is healthy and delightful; but visitors 
must guard against great heat and dew, especially 
when the vigour of the body is lowered by fatigue. 
Every one rides in Sardinia, on horses or oxen. 
The best Sardinian horse is a spirited barb, broken 
to a step called por^an^e, between an amble and a 
trot, going 4 to 5 miles an hour. The commoner 
horses are small, but hardy and fit for burdens. 
Their owners, who act as vtandariti, or guides, are 
civil, but independent, and hard at making a 
bargain. A few light vehicles may be had. There 
are not more than fifty or sixty carriages in the 
island. The country people are dirty, ignorant, 
and half savage, but hospitable; their dialect is 
unintelligible to strangers. Snipe and wild fowl 
shooting at Ozieri and Cagliari; wild boar and 
deer near Ala, in the hills; excellent fishing; 
curious antiquarian remains. 

The only good road is the Strada Reale, from 
Porto Torres to Sassari and Cagliari, through the 
island, which is level and macadamised, and tra- 
versed by dllie^nces every day. The distances are 
computed in chilogranmii, of 8 chil. to 5 miles 
English. 

This road, about 140 miles long, was begun 1824, 
and took leven years for its completion. Half of 
the men employed upon it were killed by fever. 
It corresponds with the old Roman rond through 
the island and with the direction of the railway; 
and the telegraph which follows it Is in connection 
with the cables at each end. If this rond is 
gilU^^) ^ gttide should certainly be taken. 



For detailed description of the pi-oducts, natural 
features, Ac, see pages 294 A 296. 

Railway open through the Island, from Porto 
Torres to Oristano and Cagliari; with branches 
to Terranova and Iglesias. 

The itations are— 



t 



MUcs. 

Porto Torres to 

San Giovanni 8 

San Giorgio 9 

Sant *Orsola lOj 

Sassari 12| 

Caniga 15 

Tissi-Usini 17 

Scala di Giocca 21 

Campomela 28f 

Ploaghe 29| 

Ardara 35 

Chllivani 41* 

[Branch to Golfo 

degli Aranci, vid 

Oschiri 14, milcH, 

Monti80,Enas34, 

Terranova 44, 

Golfo d* Aranci, 

67J.] 

Mores 46| 

Torralba 55 

Giave 58 

Bonorva 68 

Campeda 73 

Macomer 78| 

PiOXJTE 47^. 

Porto Torres to Cagliari. 

Porto Torres (Stat.), at the northern ex- 
tremity of the Strada Reale, one of the half dozen 
harbours of Sardinia. Population, 2,142 (including 
the Island of Asinara). Steamers to Genoa, 
Ajaccio, Ac. (See Bradshavo's Continental Ouide.) 

This is an unhealthy place in the hot season. 
It stands near the ancient Turrii Libysonis^ at the 
mouth of the River Turritano, and was ruined by 
the Genoese, out of Jealousy of the Pisans, 1166; 
when its inhabitants retired inland and founded 
Sassari, which it now serves as a port. It lies at 
the bottom of the fine Bay of Asinara. A large 
square tower, built 1549, defends the harbour. 
The town is a long street, in which stands the 
Cathedral of S. Gavino, founded in the eleventh 
century. It contains some pillars from the ruins 
of the Roman city, which are close by; with two 
marble sarcophagi worth notice. Cattle, oil, and 
wine are the chief exports. The Gulf of Asinara 
is 15 miles by 20; bounded by Asinara Island on 



Miles 

Birori 85 

Borore 87 

Abbasanta 93f 

Paulilatlno 97| 

Bauladu 104i 

Solarnsaa 110 

Simaxis 112 

Oristano 116^ 

Marrubiu 128 

Uras 182^ 

Pabillonis 188f 

San Gavino 143 

Sanluri 147 

Samassi 151 

Serrauianna 155^ 

Vlllasor 158f 

Decimomannu 164| 

[Branch to Iglesias, 
vid Uta, 2 miles, 
Siliqua 8, Musei 
14, Iglesias 24.] 

Assemini 167 

Elmas 170 

Cagliari 175 



O TOB&ES, SAKSARI, OZIBRL 



the neat, LyInK oFf Cipe Falcune. Tli!i laluK 
ridRS risllis l.MO fest high, U UonU Scommim 



)l high; I Glocoa(Stat), orOHn 



(LupulHtion. I,»14|. re 
SOU 10 400 (oet high. 

Busari (Stat.), 



■WTorrMbynil 
nd city. Md I 



ncircled with proinenadeB, uid b 
1 ManlcipKiltb, a chlaf street, c 

, a iBTga Calhedn] of the seveoti 

oenlory. and twenty chorchea. In Uie Calhi 
and tbe Chnrch of Sta. Trlnitkarepictnreiof 



faiiIided.iaH.i>yPhlUpIV.;andcoi 

OnUlde tbeMareetU Qate ia the 

eiglit lions, and four other flgureB ; 

n bridge, resting or 



building, shaped 111 
lect high, and IS tt 



°'wa^\ tai 



UstterO, one of the parts of the island. 14 

]> was toiinded, iII5S, by the Araecnoae kings ; 
aud the people, who arc of SjianiBh i1ein>iTt, speak 





red and 


Shi;;; 








Cape 


Caoela, 


Nenn™, or 


Grotto 


of S 


lJtioie,r. 



Campomslii (Stat.), on a i 



(mm van! (Stat.). 
[Ozieii (Stat.), on I 



rrowe towards the hiUe. 
, a large heayy-looklng 



TerranOTO (Btat), 41 mllet from Oileri, on the 
iii-l imwt (popnlatlon, S,(Wa), la a mUerable, nn- 

l-'rriiji i'crraneva Ihe line la completed to QolfO 

I'iio ml] towards Ortstano pastes on to (Bavs 
(Stat.) iind Bonorva (Stat), popolatlon, 4,BSa; 



HacomerOtat.) Pupuiation, £,i 
iiL.n».;PauUlatliio tBtatJareto 



Nnoro (Stat), popnla 



on. «.BUO. diiigoioa to 
a poor place, on a high 
iLlel ot the Barbagia 



292 



BSADSRAW^S ITALY. 



[S«Cti6D 8. 



highlands, Ihe people of which are very inde- 
pendent, and addicted to the vendetta, or law of 
private revenge. Monte Olienoi, in this quarter, is 
4,390 feet high, and the Oeimargentn range to the 
south rises to the height of 6.300 feet at the culmi- 
nating peak of the island.] 

The Strada Rcale from Macomer passes near S. 
Lussurgiu (population, 4,.^66), in a crater, on the 
plain of Lettu di S. Anrtoni, 9 miles by IS, ^covered 
with forest. 

Paulilatino (Stat.) PopuUtion, 2,906. To the 
west is Mills (population, 1,728), temarkable for its 
fine groves of orange trees. "No idea of their rich- 
ness and beauty can be formed from the dwarf, 
round -topped trees one sees in most orange diatrictt. 
Here, as in South Africa, they owe their luxuriiinCe 
to abundant irrigation. Soihe of the trees at Mills 
are 35 to 40 feet high, and it is said there are 
800, 000 of them of full growth. The annual produce 
is estimated at fifty to sixty millions of fhxit, 
and, being in great repute for their quality, they 
are conveyed to Sassari and Cagliari and all 
parts of the island, the prices varying from I'ld, to 
4fd. per dozen, according to circumstances." — 
( Forrester). It stands on a volcanic plain. 

Orlstano (Stat.), population, 6,220, on the 
rail to Cagliari. An archbishop's seat, and an old 
half-Spanish, unhealthy town. Hence the pro- 
verb — 

" A Orlstano che ghe va 
In Orlstano ghe resta." 

It stands near the mouth of the Tirsi and the Gulf 
of Orlstano. Its Cathedral has an eight-sided 
campanile, topped with a pear-shaped dome of 
coloured tiles. It produces good white and red 
wine and fiax. The palm and cactus are seen. 
There are many interesting antiquities in the 
neighbourhood. From Orlstano to Cagliari the 
road and rail pass through the widest campidano 
in the island, 50 miles long. 

The mail steamer touches here. 

Uras (Stat.), under the volcanic -peak of 
Monte Arci. Population, 2,068. To the west, 12 
miles, at the bottom of the Gulf of Orlstano, is 
Monte Arcuentu, composed of piles of basalt. Its 
summit, Trebia Ladu, 2,816 feet high, is a basalt 
peak, so called from a tribina, or tripod. At Ales 
(population, 1,128), to the north-east, is a giara di 
gestiu, or volcanic plain, strewn with pieces of 
obsidian trachyte. «fec. 

Sanluri (Stat.), having some old churches 
and a castle, and houses built of sun-dried^bricks." 

Samassi (Stat.), population, 2,300, on the 
Rii'er Samassi, which ruus down to VUIaSOr 
(Stat.) Near this is 

MoNASTiR (population, 1,246), standing on a 
double crater, long extinct, and now well wooded. 
The bridge is of red trap rock. 

]>ecixnomaiintt (Stat.) Here a branch of 
y^ laJJea strike3 off to the west coast, past Sllllllia 



(Stat), population, 1,945^ and IglMias (Stat.), 
population, 6,460, in t^e Sulci distiictt where the 
best Sardinian is spoken. 

The Strada Reale and the rail both terminate at 

CAOIXARI (Stat) 

The capital of the island, on its southern face; 
standing on a fine bay, 24 miles hy 18 miles, with 
good anchorage. Its Darsena, or port, admits 
lalrge vessels alongside tne (pi&y. Population, 
89,000, with suburbs. 

Hotels.— Concordi&t with Cai4 of the same name ; 
Progresso. 
Resident British and jUneriean ConeuU. 

Among the curiosities here are gloves made of 
the beard of the ptnnus marina. A good show of 
fruit, &c., in the market, in Stampace suburb. 
Cagliari produces Malvasia and Muscat wine. It 
is very cold before sunrise and after sunset, and 
would be trying for an invalid. 

It was the ancient CakuHi^ founded by the Phoe- 
nicians; and consists of an Upper and Lower town. 
The Upper Town, or oldest mj^, on a hill, 400 feet 
high, is called Castello or Casteddn, and contains 
the chief buildings, the citadel, Ac. It was walled 
round by tlie Pisans; and three massive Towers 
surmount the old ramparts, called the Elephant, 
Lion, and Eagle towers, with as many arched 
gates, which lead, by steps and steep lanes, down 
the slope of the hill to the suburbs of the Lower 
Town beneath, viz. :— Marina, Or the poVt, Stam- 
pace, or Corso, Theatre, and Yillanova. 

Cagliari was the residence of the Eling of Sar- 
dinia, from 1798 to 1814, when expelled from the 
mainland by the French. It has fifty-two churches. 

The Cathedral was built by the Pisans, out of the 
stones of a basilica founded by Constantine, com- 

Sleted in 1312, but afterwards modernised. It 
as three aisles, with mari)Ies, pictures, tombs, Ap., 
and a crypt containing relics. 

8t. AugtuHne''s Church is annexed to an Oratory, 
built by him when he resided here for a short time. 
Upon his death, at Hippo, in Africa, his bones were 
translated hither, .106, and afterwards reoxyved to 
Pavia, by King Luitprand, 722. 

Tht Jesuit Church is rich in marbles, Ac.; its 
College has been suppressed. Near the Capucliin 
Convent are remains of a Roman Ampldtheatre^ 
about 290 feet long, with traces of water-works. 
Other buildings are the Reale Cdicuza, or High 
Court of Justice; the government salt, tobacco, 
and powder work^; and the Vniversffy. At the 
latter is the 

* Royal Museum, containing many objects of 
notice. Among these are Roman milestuues and 
sarcophagi. Roman cohis; one being unique^ 
viz., a silver coin, struck by Atius Balbus, the 
grandfather of Augustus, when prefect of Sardinia, 
in the year b.o. 80. About one hundred Cartha- 
ginian coins, masked by a head of Cens, and a 



Bouta 4S.] 

lown built is UKlaland: 



■.UtDInA.— CAOLIABI LA HADDALBMl, O&PSBRA. 



coUectlgn 



t 190 9j 






;t.Ti,: 



ji dlrlnlllH, gi 
]mb« blfb. Some doDb 

blrdi; ■mofUtlMUttarinfliuiiliigaMiuiilpeUcwii 
rmm Uh uH ligoon U Booffs, neu Cigllui. 
Thsy lrcqn«nt Ihli )4eca of wM«r M Ibe [all of Uie 

Tbe wat aide. Tba River UtU and otber (trwuiu 

At DarKill. near CsgUari, li a nalactllla oave, 
H ball, Bopinrted br IS loft; plUare, 




From CogUarl Oun li a ronle u, tlw 
MM SUiqilA (Btat.) and DtmuMKH (popniatio 

telwlM (StaD.wblcb an heat reachod byway 









called from tha gold fonnd tfaero. Th&lHlaadaof 
S. Antloco and 9. Pletro, Id tbe OuK at Palmai. SO 
lo 3G milea, are la Iha aonth of Iglwlu. 

Fran Gagllari it li abonl 10 milea ahng tbeeaal 
a[de of the gulf, pan Qoann (populUi«i, e,»)»), to 
Ciipo CarbDoam, at the 004 of the Sett* FratalU 
■li>iuiUlii^:^Utl»MUs>i- Han,a«atmaiiyot1iei 
— iiot<paita,tlHaiituBHar*nDurkabl«. From 
lUarldomthamattldsofUiBgiillfllaMRiilM 
i« SparttTHkhb 0» aaiuliera airtremliy of 



CBj^artdowi 

tbe l3vid. a 



4,000 festaboTeaeaUTeL 1 , 

(popiilaliun. 1,488). now San, or ITera, tb 

Fiou Cape Spartlnutu It l> IS nllH to I 
ctiSnuf Cape Taalada, WO f set blgh, and to 



nek, with abron ollfla. Tba 
TonUaoOIeothlgb. Tba ro 
the galf to Iglealaa. 



La KaflfltJMi* to BmuMl 



I foundeil by refngMa from Gonlca, n*SJ, aiHl 
a Atra^llng Dp a hlU, among badgaa of priokly 
- 't baaagoDdharboar, Br-* '"- ' — ' "'- 



Steamer, weekly, frcjin Lflflhom. 

Tha Chonb of Baata Harla Maddalen* li of 

Ita ailvar oandlaatloki and cmol£x, bearing an In- 
aoription and hli anna — ^^Nelarm aod Bronte." 
ThOT we™ praaantad by blmtothe town when hf 

Uu Fraacb aaat at Touloa. In 18M4. Uatoldtka 
people to pray to tha Madonoa for tba Froieh to 
come ant. and he would glTc Ihen tbo ralne of ■ 

MeiaiBohlfaherewBaaalledbyNeJBOn "AglnooDrt 
Sound," Hli oplnloD wa> that tbe baiboDr wag the 

winda, and, for poiltloD, worth fifty HallaL 

Tbe name of Napoleon, alao, la oooseetad with 
thli place. He vraa tent here by FaoU, Id Febmary, 
1 79s, lecond In command of a amall force of artfl- 



DuntleoTertheahonlder. Tbeyttl 

of OaribalrH i a rugged maim, w called from tbe wild 
gouta which abound bore. It belonKBd to an 
Engllah aportaman before it 1: line lo him. and 

ol 10 acrea on tbe weal dda, the re«t being barren 

frlenda. Tagllona Hill waa 760 lu g.-0 feet high. To 



111, la Ihc Chorch.ol Banta Maria di Araacbv 
ulnt Loogo Sardo. or LoD^oe, at the norJh eJ 



294 



BRADSHAW'S ITALY. 



[Section 3. 



The strait, or Bocchedt Bonifacio, which is from 
6 to 8 miles bn>ad, to the opixwlto shore of Corsica 
(see BratUhair'g Hand-Book to France)^ was called 
Taphros (a trench) hy the Greeks, and is subject to 
heavy squalls. Coral and tunny rtsh are procured 
here. 

From La Maddalona to the mouth of the Liscia 
on the mainland, about 2 miles, is done by boat. 
Hence to Sarsaei (supposing the rail from Tempio 
to Monti, thence vid Chelivani, not to be used), 
may be travelled on horseback, the distances being 
about as follow:— To Tempio, 25 miles; top of the 
Lymbaras, 12 miles; Nulci, 12 miles; Osilo, 12 
miles; 3assari, 8 miles; total, about 70 miles. 

The track lies through a wide plain, bordered by 
hills, in the pi-ovinco of Gallura, which is a series 
of hill and valley, with no eult|vntion, and no in- 
habitants, except at some stazta, or farms, the few 
villages being on the coast. It is covered with a 
luxuriant shrubbery, called macoia, as in Corsica, 
composed of myrtles, some 80 feet high; with cistus, 
erica, arbutus, and other plants. 

The Village of Logo Santo, in the hills, about half 
way to Tempio, is near Monte Santo, a place of 
pilgrimage, with a ruined convent, founded thir 
teenth century, where the relics of S. Nicholas and 
S. Trano are shown. 

In this nclghbom-hood ih the forest of the Cinque 
Denti, (or Five Teeth JliVs), overgrown with millions 
of trees and shrubs, as oak, ilex, cork, arbntns, Ac, 
80 thick that the sun never penetrates them ; and 
a great resort of fuorisciti, or outlaws, who arc civil 
and hospitable to strangers. The route ascends to 

Tempio, the capital of Gallura, through the 
eastern defiles of the Limbara Mountains, which 
rise 8,990 feet at Punta Balestiere. Population,9,547. 

The best guns in the island are made here. It is 
the military head-quarters of the district, and a 
bishop's seat, on a swell of the Gemini plain, 2,000 
feet above the sea, and therefore healthy. It has 
some narrow, dirty streets, with large granite houses 
marked by wooden balconies ; several old Palaces 
faced by the marble anus of their former owners ; 
a Cathedral and thirteen churches, a large sup- 
pressed nunnery, and a reformatory outside the 
town. 

The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter, is of a 
mixed style, with a good altar, choir, and stalls. 
There is a ca^*ino in the town supplied with news- 
papers and Iwoks. The men are shepherds, caval- 
lanti (liorsekecpers), viandanti (gaides), <fec., and 
carry on a trade in cheese, ham, fruit, and other 
p!'o(luce. They arc also eager cacciatoH or spoits- 
imti, fond of hunting the cingale (wild hogs), wild 
(leer, and goat. The hogs come to feed on the as- 
phodels, which have u flower like u dahlia. It ib the 
cioitom here for the women to wear the upper petti - 
cout of striped Bilk turned over the head. From 
rAe town there Ib a tine panoramic view of the 
ojountains, dotted with groups of plncH, cork, aum 



Leaving Tempio the route ascends through the 
plain to the top of the pass of the Lymbara, by a 
long but easy rise. The view from the summit 
takes in Corsica, 80 miles distant one way, and the 
canipidano, in the centre of the island, the other 
way. 

On the north-west, down the River Cogruinas, are 
some hot springs, near Castel Doria, which stands 
on a I'ocky peak. 

The route passes Nulci (population, 2,804), and 
Ostto (population, 4,738) to Sassarl, in Route 47, 
page 291. 

Sabdinia, or Sabdeqna, called Ichnusa or ** foot 
shaped," by the Greeks, is the largest island in the 
Mediterranean, l>eing a little larger than Sicily, and 
about 16fi miles long, by 70 to bO miles broad. It 
is 8 miles south of Corsica, across the Strait of 
Bonifacio; 120 to 1J?0 miles from Italy and Africa; 
200 miles from Fi-ance; 800 miles from Spain. It 
has a coast of about 500 miles, and is bold and hilly 
nearly all round, esi)ecially on the east side, with 
wide plains down the middle of the island, marked 
by volcanic traces. About two-thirds of its surface 
are unreclaimed land or pasture. 

It is divided into two provinces, three archbishop- 
rics, and eight bishoprics. 

Provinces. Pop., 1871. 

1. Cagliari, in the South 398,208 

(containing the circondarii of Cagliari, 
Iglesias, Lanusei, Oristano.) 

2. Sassari, in the North 243,252 

(Sassari, Alghero, Nuoro, Oziero, 

Tempio.) 

Total population 636,460 

In 1862, the population was 588,064. In 1889, it 
had increased to 7o5,l*88. 

The rivers are the Tirsi (ancient Thyrtas)^ the 
longest; with the Ulla, Coguinas, Turritano, Ac. 

Ports — Cagliari, Alghero, Porto Torres, Mad- 
dalona, Terranova, Tortoli, Ac. 

l*roducts. — Good wheat; though it is not so plen* 
tiful as in old times, when Sardinia was a granary 
of Rome. For sport there are wild hogs, deer, 
partridges, bares, and quail; M'ith the monflon, or 
wild sheep, as in Corsica. Prickly {H'ar (cactus) 
in the hedges; orang< s, lem ns, and other frnit; 
oak, coi k, palms ; most of the forests have been cut 
down for charcoal. Oaks run VO to 25 feet round, 
with 10 inches of bark. Tunny fsh, small 
sardines, and coral ; but the fisheries give only a 
model ate reium. Tobacco, salt, and snow are 
royul monopolies. Formerly i' yielded a poiaonous 
herb, of which the victim died with a grin on his 
face; hence the phrase, a "sardonic smile.** It 
was rich in metals, as lead, copper, iron; the last 
found at Monta Terru, and still to be found in 
considerable abundance at certain spots. Gold 
has beetv fouud at Monte d'Oru; mercury, near 
Or\alauu; %\\\.\\Ya(A\.v: (^vivvV vsw \.Vy« «outh side of the 



antimonr. and tslt are Mill worked; fi 
ara nearlj eihaoBisd, Other minerilB i 
phyry, bault, alabantfir, inarbla, Jaop^, an 
or aariliiie atone (so lomed liam this Uhu 



It>e«IoKf l>BlinLliirtflthiitatCar>ic&. A 
rldgonins dimn Iho eost ride of thelslBtid, cl 

1st.— The Llmbara b™"!" ™ t"" norlli / 
island, ot graoito, B,9M leet high at Pmitii I 

Slid.— The BarbBBla, or Oi^nnorgcnln Mnun 
mthomlddlei 6,000 feet, at Iho summit, tlio hi 
m the Island, where the mow rcsla troni Be 
bcr to Maj. Monte OUena, near Kuui 
lliuestone, is <,S»0 feat hlgb. Monte Al 

3nl.— These end In the Sotte Fratelll, nonr 
Carbonara. of grSDlta, 3.310 feet high. 

On the north-west nre the Mom Monii 
granite and limestooej 9,00(1 feet high at i 
ArEantaro, and 1,M0 test In Aainarialslaiiil. 



ighbourhood o[ which red ash 


wd. Lava beds are seen St C 




trachyte, basalt, and other i 


rawn about. Lossnreio. Cngli 


her places stand on old erater 


a Bonth-weet, are two hills, calte 


nd Pii«a Ognmann, both voloa 


va has flowed over the limeston 


iar. and Sarri, which eland 



jr niiniollthic stones, »b aped lito a rolling jdn, 
IXteet high, and called )wnii{pletra)>«a and 
aluaga. The latter is a larga atone, with two 

tonn.l tngetber. ' Those correspond "^wlth the 

le remains of an extenslTe dolmen and klat- 
i. called "Sepolture de los OlganUs," or Tombs 

, S ta e f cct wide, and about the same depth, 
I alarge flat stone for a cover. They all lie 



icrly Jforo, on 0)6 OuifofCagllsi^, Is 
ittlemenr. Sardinia appears h> luiTe 
ed by the Phnnlolana and Cartha- 





coi 


dFUD 


lcwar> 


mdh» 


d as m 


any as forty- 






^ he 


ng alway 






no. (400 It la 






limb 


er. Itwas,lnra 




great mhiing 




ry 




e Roman 


and 




led to haTB 










■a 


™Wfo» 












anplo 


ghe and oar- 








solid UockB nf 


wo^ 








nqnei 


edbyth 


Plsaas,10»S, whotookil 


■on 


the 


Sara 






Spain 


in IMl; and 



finally, was taken In exchtuiga for Sicily, by Victor 
Amadcus. Dnke of Savoy, who therespni asaomed 
tlio title of Kbig of Sardinia, a title which hs> 
I swelled into the mora impoiiag one of King of 
Italy, As might be expected from such a histoiy, 
I the langnaga of the Island Is a mixture of Lathi, 
I Italian, aai Spanish, with a dash of Arabic. 




:«!■- ^ 

'l|j- 



Itlpll 




A-HTiufriHiiCaf, »< 



ADVKRTISEXBNTS. 



CONTINENTAL HOTELS, &c. 



AIX-LA-CHAFELLE. 



CAKI. KOHMEB, Proprietor. 

THIS larffc and wcll-knowu Establishment, close to the Karnaal, and opposite the principal Bath 
Houses, bus an excellent reputation for its general comfort, cleanliness superior accommoda- 
tion, and very moderate charjrrs. The Proprietor lived several years in England. Table d'U6tc at 
1 and 5 o'clock. Carriages at tlie Hotel. Arrangements In the Winter season from the 1st October. 



AMSTERDAM. 



lOT 



I 



9 -. 



FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. New palatial building, facing the Cen- 
tral Hallway Station, centre of the (*Ity, 2 mfnntes from the Koyal Palace and the Kxduinge. 
The finest position of Amsterdam. The only lire-proof Hotel of Amsterdam, Every modem comfort. 
Electric Light. Hydraulic Lift. Hanflsomc large Public llalK. Arra nge meri ts a nd Pension, 
('harires moderate. Sanitary arrangement* perfect. BlffTT. "KAlfWMAf^^'^^jif^^^ff 



BADEN-BADEN. 



FIBST-GLASS ESTABLISHMENT, nearest to the 

COWKUSATfO.X IIOir.HK and 

SEW YAPOUR-BATHS (Fredericsbaths).^ 

Kow guFPounded by its own 

beautiful Park. 

r-^V^— "**• Open all the year. 

ChaiV^a KtrJetlr moderate* 

^|eV^,;i*— -""^ 8i)eciai arrangement!* for a prolonged rtay. 



5V^ 



own^ 



^t^\4U^^>*^ Peniion. Table d'hote at 1 and 6 o'olook. 

HYDRAULIC LIFT IN BOTH HOUSES. 

A. ROMHI.EII, Proprielor* 

URAXCH llOTKL:— HOTEL EDEN, PALLANZA, (LAOO MAGGIORK;. 

HOTELi d'ANGLETERBE. 



I 



Proprietor, P* BIOlTBf formerly of the Hotel 

ARf;i5 FIU8T-CLAK.S HOTEL, of old reputation, patronised by the higbeat famUiea, 
-* brautifully xituated in the l>efft part of tho place, near the Promenade, the C'onrersathm Hooae, 
and at the entrance n1 the Lichtenthal "Alldc." Newly renovated with all comfort. Carpeted, 
A>w'/M/r;ia^;iuent. Uath^. Lift. Garden. Arrange infrnts made. Open all the year. 



iLDT£RTIBEMBNT«. 



BADENWEILEB. 



BADENWEILER IN BADEN. 

HOTEIi SOMMER 

(FORMERLY HOTEL KARLSRUHE). 

First-class House. Beantifully situated, with Mineral Water 

Springs (Einzelbader). 
Omnibns meets principal Trains at the Mnlheim Station. 

FREIBURG IN BREISGAU, BADEN. 

HOTEL SOMMER ZUM ZEHRINGER HOP 

First-class Hotel, near the Railway Station, situated in 
the centre of a beautiful garden, commanding magnificent view. 

Both establishments have large Dining, Reading, &. Billiard Rooms. 
ISxcellent Cooking. Fine 'Wines. Moderate Prices. 

SOMMEB BROTHERS, Proprietors. 



BARCELONA. 



GRAND HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS. 



THIS First Class Family Hotel, much frequented by English and Americans, 
is sitaatcd in the most fashionnblo quarter of the Town, In the centre of the Theatres, and 
other places of amusement, near the Post and Telegraph Offices. French Cuisine, Table d'Hote. 
English, German, and French spoken. Terms moderate. Special terms for the Winter Season. 

PROPRIETORS: FORTIS «» (o. 



BEAULIECJ. 



HOTEL DES ANGLAIS. 

(THB ONLT FIRST CLASS HOTEL.) 
Entirely under the personal superintendence of the Ne^ Proprietor, Mr. D. IMBODEN. 

THOROUGHLY RE-ORGANISED FINE VIEW OF THE SEA. 

Mn. IMBODEK IM EIlNiMHH. 



BELLA6I0. OK THS'LAKE OF COMO (HALT). 



HQfTEL QRAiillE BRKtAONE. 

ANB.OF THP LAXMHto ^O BBCT^lLarACAtD fiOTBLS to b »,t|qp4 o ffc IMBm fiifeMk 
1^ i»ftnf no tfbrtt* M««.iati«ilcMk •olSirTli4i«ny 91 YIXUL WUIBUMn teflldSr^Miii 
H luiMgBifloaAlr dlpwM on the bAl|^ta te. tlMtnlAfc a< ezteoMre ikrd«ns. <JHrlooMik t htWo l 
BlirineB«rviwfalMldia«€aMiMlbaoiigtegto«in1IoUI<lhaideBr«Ci«M. ^ ^Tll lOiiii; 




Otaj Viaiton tUying at the Hotel Onade Bnttoso* have fntadiaittaiip^ts the bMnttfal FMt •< the YilU Bnbellonl. 

BERCE-SUB-M]^ (F^s de Calais). 

!■ I ' ■ ■ I II II III! I ^m^t^^m. 





ON THE SHORB <4|1f ARTIER ROXRCRUBK " 

Hooie highly recommeoded to Familiea, the Shore behigr especially favourable to chlldrezL . T^rrafic. 

Saloons. Full Board from 8 francs per day. 

Same house, at Bouloo^tb-sub-Meb, Hotel de IXurope, near the '^ Plage ''and ** Casino.** 

TaMe d*Hote at 6 o'dUMk. K. MOmUKUSB, Rropzletor. . 



oa 



BEBUK. 



MOXrOFOL HOTEL-Borlfax. 

STATION FRIEDRICHSTRASSE. 

First-class Hotel, wltb renowned Restaurant and excellent Frencli Kltcben. 

ProprletorSi ROSMAJflTH A SCHAFRTE, Wine Merdumto. 



BEX. 



Opposite tiM New Enirliali CliHreli* 

THIS favourite Hotel, renovated and newly re-furniBhed, with its new addition 
of 00 Booms, now Drawing Room, Dining Room, Billiard Ro<Hn, Smoking Room, and 
promenoir; Bath Establishment with Salt Baths-and Two Sallcs des Douches ; Russian and Turkish 
Baths, Electric Battery and Inhaling Rooms ; will now be open all the year. Carriages. Omnibuses 

at the Station. Large Park with shaded walks. Pension. Terms moderate. C. HIE6 



BXAUBJTZ. 



GREAT REDUCTION tN PRICES. 

^TJfflS sf^endld Establishmeat, facing the Sea and Badis, the finest sitfiatioir 

/ir the towTtf is famed for its great comfort, excellent cooking, and Anoderate charges, surpass^ 
Qtber Hotels in the distiidi and is frequented by the <Ht4, 



ADYERTISEMBirrfl. 5 



BUMS. 



OSANS BOTSli DB BLOZS. 

Tety i6#Wfort»1»le faMe d*]fe#te an4 private IHimera. 

APARlttSKT6 fotr FumiHes. Close to the Castle of Blois. Comfortable 
Carriage for Ylsitiiifi^ ChAmbord and the environB. Omnibna at the Station. English q>ok«|k 



LIFT* On the Banka of tlie Blilne. LIFT. 

Bnropean Beputatlon. 200 Booms and Saloons. 

CfHUACnni «l«bmftw«al*ltelBStluiJthtB«, Sevan Monntaina* tha PaA. Laadiag Pitr, aa4 Balhray Stattaa. 

^ BztcBisiTe RngHwh (nrdens. BcMling, Smoking, and Billiard Booms. Ladies' Saloon. American, Fivnch, and 
BncliBh Newspapera Wiana and Cold>BatM in the BoteL Special Omnibuses belonging to the Ertaldishment to and 
Irem all IVains and Stsamen. Modente Chaiges. AdTautageons arrangements tor a pMonnd mkqvgn. Pension. 
Highly recommended. Tahle d'Hota at l|-aud 6 o'cloek. I« V9(£»I%II, - llaaaaeP* 



^ 



B0ftD£AtnC. 



GRAND HOTEL 

(HOTEL de FRANCE et de NANTES, r^unis). 

4Ndy Tir»l Claas Hotelt fttll somth, patronised by II.K.II. the Prince of Wales. 

UPT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. 
TELZrHONK, latent syBt^m. codnmunieaUtiLg witb Pi^IS. 

CALOEltERfi HEATIK6 i)AY AND MGHT. 

TABLE D'HOTE. RESTAURANT. 

LADIES' ROOM. BEADINO and SMOKING BOOMS. 

BATH ROOM ON EACH FLOOR. 

SiMaM (0pyo6ite the 6%ind Theatre, the Prefecfnre, the *fixchange,^e Bank of 
France, and w Port. SaSooas and 90 Rooms irom <3 francs upward; in Pension 
£3 28. aS^eek. 

^lBte.3^tBK3 ma^lHt^nik; Cellata nndeir tlie Hotel, containing BQ,0(K). bottltiiii 
can be risited at anj time ii{the day ; he ie (dso Proprietor of 4he Domaine du 
Phenix, and Purf«yor <jf Wine and Liqueurs to H.lif. the Queen of England. 
He selli flfito article hi small and large quantities, in bottles Or in iviood, in full 
confidence. 

- • > - ^ • i: ■ • r - • ' . Xi« PETES, PvcMd0t#St* T 

BOEntOHEfti: 



o < V I l»fc . 



HOTEL O'ANGLETERRE 

FIRST-CLASS . BSTXKp^MStCr, Udfc^l t«cj(U«9!A^^ ^<^ ^^5£g:fiG. 
Familiea, ArmiiMpmta made jtor^a PTQ%T%Gt«aL'iil«f% "*»*^w^»^ ^26.^^^ ^^'***'^^2L^;«^ 
LMrg^'&mrdea. FamhtM Park lloom to ¥Kotogai»\wf>. ^^^^w^** ^^*R: ^SSl^aSe 



iLDYERTISEMEMTS. 



BOULOaNE-SUS-MES. 



HOTEL FOLKESTONE. 

A DSIIRABLY Kitu.itcd, cloNe to the Casino and Sandit. Larpre and small Apartments Special 
-^ torms for Faniilics and Parties. Tabic d'llute and UcHtauraut (open to non-residenU). 
hxcHlcnt Cnlslno. First Clans Wine5. Perfect Sanitation. Highly recommended. Cook's coupons 
accepted. Englisli spoken— On parie Fransais— Btan spricht Deutsch, W. PBSPERDINE, Pro. 

BBEGENZ. 



HOTEL DE UEUROPE. 

TVewly ballt, cloite to the Htatloa luicl Ijuidisflr Place of the Meamenu 

QITUATEI) on the Lake, It commands a splendid rlew of the Mountains, and affords erery modem 
^ comfort. 80 elegantly furnished Bedrooms. Saloons. " Salle h Manger.* Reading Saloon. 
Ciood attemlance. Moderate charges. Excellent Restaurant. 

A. BBACHBR nad T. X^ZAK, Proprietors. 



BEU8SELS. 



HOTEL MENGELLE 

HydranUc Lift. (HUE BOYALE). Hydraulic Lift. 

THIS LARHE AND BEAUTIFUL FIBST-l'LASS HOTEL 

Is sitaated in the finest and healtMest part of tbe Town, 

NEAR TO THE MOST FREQUENTED PROMENADES, 
AND IS SUPPLIED WITH EVERY MODERN COMFORT. 

TABLE D'HOTE 5 FRANCS. 

RKSTAURANT "A LA CARTK »' AT ANY HOUR. 
F1S8T RATE COOKING AND CHOICE WIBTEA. 

ACCOMMODATION FOR 150 PERSONS. 

BEADINO AND OONVSBSATION SALOONS. 



BATHS. LAR6E AND SPLENDID DININ6 ROOM. 

^ POST AND TELEGRAPH. 

TiFjr^emenfs made with Families during the Winter Season. 

Mr. B. TA1£.'»Gi1E\-SJB:^ Proprietor. 



iLDYERTISEMByTS. 

BRUSSEUS Contlnned. 



HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. 

PI.ACE BOTAI.E. 

^PHIS unrivalled Establishment, overlooking the Park, the Place Koyale, and 

JL tho Kue Royalo. lias been cunRiderably enlarged and embellished by the present Proprietor, 
Mr. E. DREMEL. Public Saloons, Reading, Smoking, and Bath Rooms. Spacious Terrace G arden 
orerlookinflr the whole park. Electric Light in all tho Rooms. Ticket and Booking Office for Lug- 
gage in the Hotel. Rooms from 4 frs. 50 c, including Electric Light. Hydraulic Lift (lleurtcbise 
System), 

HOTEL DE FLANDRE. 

PLACE ROYAI.E. 

LODGING, inclusive of attendance and electric llRht, from 4 frs. per day. First 
Breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c; Luncheon, 4 frs.; Table d'Hote, 5 frs.; Pension: Bedroom, attendance, 
light, and three meals daily, from 13 frs. 50 c. per day. Public Saloons, Billiards, and Bath Room. 
Electric Light. Lift. Ticket and Booking Office for Luggage. 

aRAND HOTEL aSBUAT. 

BOULEVARD BOTANIQUE. Close to the S'tetion for Germany, Holland, 
France, Spa, Ostend. Antwerp, Ghent, .and Bruges. The Waterloo Conch passes before the 
Hotel every morning. Charges moderate. Baths in ttl6 HoteL Telephone. 

l>nrk Itoom for PhototirraphH. 

FIRST CLASS AND SPACIOUS APARTMENTS. 

MRS. MATTHYS, 42, Rue du Prince Rotal, lets good furnished 
Saloons, Bed-rooms by the Week or the Month, with linen and attendance. Board if 
desired. Best situation near the Boulorards, the ATcnuo Louise, and the Tramways. Moderate 
terms. Mrs. MATTHYS speaks English. 



STTBAFEST. 



HOTEL QUEEN OF ENGLAND. 

Highly Recommended First Class Hotel. 

BEST SITUATED IN TOWN. VIEW ON THE CORSO. 

JOSEF MA1KCHAI.9 PJropHet4»r. 

CADENABBIA. 

HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. 

T7IRST.RATE HOTBL, latdy ffreat\y WlWt^A,«v\^»^«^.«tv^^J«^^ 

JT of the Lake, oppgate BeUaglo. Its aliuiitW \* AsWi^M^ 1«« y^^^SSSSS^n^'^^'"^*^^*™ 
MbMdjr waUualoDg the «Aor0. . C«deoftbl»i» Vi efcty ^^ tVjAw^^T«tf«^V«'w«"»^^ 



CiJBf^ 



aOTEIi D'ASraiiETXftRS. 

First Class Hotel, best in tbe Tcrnn. 

tw WAWCCI^ gr»pric«or. . 



CAIRO. 




MEN A HOUSE, HOTfiii. 

EIGfiT miles from Cairo, SSgJpty witlim 5 ^niimtes' walk of the great Pyrdtmds. 
Four-in-band Coach and Break run in regular commnnicatiba with the. Hotels- d^AM^tene^and 
Continental, Cairo. Public and Private Dining Booms, Reading, Drawing, an^naoMog KooKi. A, 
large selection of Books, and most of the English Journals are tisen In. 

sassssisssssssslssssssssssssssstsssssss^^ 

CALAIS. ^_ 

TERMINUS 

(GAEE MABmHS.) 

Faoing Landing Stage, Calais ft Dorer Boats; 

BATHS. 

POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICES. flJECTRtO UCHi: 

CENTRAL HOTEL 

(OAAB TILLS.) 

Situated in the Centre of iSk» Town. 
POST AND TELEGRAPH OFPIGES. ELECTRIG tiONi:^ 



g^Mfigfe 



canhes. 



HOTEL. PRINCE DE QALLES. 

n^HIB BOTlSLf near St. PauFs Church, stan^ on aii..emioeAC» in iU o 



4frmadt, ptotttiUd ffyloUy bffls Ihim -tbe north ^HaA «Mk wteilSr «Uh^ 

f«i(toX«i3teJk£i0d!itilMMMfttenittM^ 

~ * J" - 




AUrVKOMEMXSTB^ 



GBANO HOT£L BE mOlES. 

Beet aitnattoii on tbe piincixftal Jnmmuids, 'iml do«r 4o the ** 09mSl» ISmM^w^^ 
IiARGS aABDKN. ULWS TEKfaS. UFC. 

HO^nSL raNSION and YIUJl DE Lik TOUB; 

AT the West End of Cannes, ftiH "Souths iaoing tho' Sea and the Esterel 
Momttftim. LArg«-€ftrden and Temce-witUn, imm w lt aflydjoliilng ttte Pine Wooit^^w- 
CrolX4ieiewNle<FamiIy Hoiiie> Laws TMItfis «n«vevM|««JGi)oana»^ Opw^t-Qttbhm. 

ClOM by the Pfoprietrees haa a nteelylttmiBheJI VHlato'let,*^ M I >tei ng S Mtttng RomIM^ 7 
roomi, etc. Board and Serrke if required. 

0AKCBBIL9. 

HOTEL GOLDENER SCHILD, 

With Dependence (T-wo German Monarohe)^ 

THIS HOTEL has Eur(^)ean ceMbriQr, J8 very beau^fiiliT sittfattd^^lSi&afjge 
CNirden, and is newly furnished and dec<»ated. TraWtlera will Ind ti<^e^«v«nr 0oiifftfM4^' 
moderate prices. English, French, and German Kewqp^pers. Open al l they eiir. Eitg^Hsh'' 
Serraats. T. "BOBOSBlt, Hottfllflr. 

GRAND HOTEL D'ANOLETERRB 

AND ITS KEAXtwvJL ABTHCxfe* Eir«um ttaBf^cii; 

ElfiST CLASS ESTABLISHiaXNT,pi^ti6iilar]y recommended. 300 Booms. . 
TaMad*Hdte. ReaUnxant. NearllieSatbJMteblisbOMBt and the- Casino. Uft. Cngltall 
and oihiWila]i«aagea apokea. Open all the year. A.MBDXOK, PJ^VtelMW' 



H>^: 



••M«iAi»aMaMi*^>A>i 



GRANO HOTEL VILLA D'ESTE AND HEINE D'ANGLETERflE. 

LARGE and^aplendid hotMe •! tie drat ordeiV idth tattmsive Fitrfc and'OKrden on ike Mutts of the 
Lake. Fomer residence of H. M. Qneen Caroline of England. Abode chosen by H. M. the 
late lUijiftwi >f atiiesia-tn ISflS.' Anangement ^if ftawleiwit wreiy-ttedgHitefatcw* •yrtisittai ' 



tmaammaes. 



'cmaaamr: 



HOT£L. 1>&VF8ANG£. 



10 iLDTBSnSBMENTg. 



CHAMOUBIX. 



GRAND HOTEL ROYAL et de SAUSSURL 

FIKST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, delightfully situated in full riew of 
Mont Blanc. Lari^re Pftrk and Garden. Excellent TcleHcopc for free use of yisitors, Batbs. 
French Restaurant. Special arrangements. Under personal management of the proprietor. 



CHAUMONT (France) Hte. Hame. 



aSAXTD HOTEL SE FRAUCE, 

Larse and small rery comfortable Apartmentft. 

Large and small Booms. Hecommended to Families and Single Tourists. 

OMXIBVS TO AUi TRAl^fH. 



CHUB (Coire). 



HOTEL STEINBOCK (Capricome) 

IPOSMERLT HaiUMr, Kelm * Ck). B. KUPPEB Maaagw, fonaMrlj at the Hot«l Banr a« Lac, Zarldi, aa4 
'' BoWl NAttonal, Loesnis. 

FIRAT CIAHH HOTEI^ witli IM Rooma and HltUns Rooma. 

BMt situation in Town. Baths on sach floor. Bailwar Booldaf GOes for ndMts and Lnggags ia thii Bovso. 

Oarrla««s ana sztra Posts. 
Telephone correspondence between the Puat, Poet Office for Diligences, and Rxtrm Post, in the Hotel. 

COBLENCE. 



HOTEL IDTJ Ca-B.A.2SrX- 

Mewini. EISENKAlllf, Pronrletors. 

THIS well-known and f aronrite first class hotel is delightfully situated opposite the Castle of 
Khrenbreitstein ; it is the nearest to the landing-place of the steamers, and commands a most 
beautiful view of the Rhino and surrounding country. This highly rccommenditd establishment 
•ombines superior accommodation with moderate prices. Cokl and warm baths. Purreyor of Wine 
to Ills Majesty the Emperor of Germany. 



COLOGNE. 



First Class Hotel, near the Cathedral, on the Bhine. 300 Booms. 

TABLE D'HOTE at One and Six o'clock. Telegraph and Post Offices. Riul- 
way Ticket and Booking Office for Luggage in the HoteL English Church from June 15th, 1879. 



THE GENUINE 



JS the No. 4, distilled strictlj according to the original prescription of the inrentor, 
nacestor, bjr the nuaH ancient distiller 

JOHAinr JKAJBIA FASXNA, IxkiicWnaAs, No. 4 



ADTERTISEHEMTS. 11 



CM>LOONK Coatlnned. 



COI.O«MB ON* THE KHINE. 

MAGNIFICENT New Building opposite the Cathedral. Finest and largest 
Hotel in Cologne. Carefully Dianuged with regard to the comfort and taste of Englisb 
Families. Grand Saloons. Smoking, Reading, Drawing Rooms. Bath, &c. Three Elevator*. 
Electric Light. Model ate charges. 



GOHO. 



aBAlTS BOTEL TOLTA. 

ON the border of the Lake, opposite the Landing Place of Steamers. The sole 
First Class Hotel in Como. Cook's Couroxs accsptxd. 



G. BAZZI, Proprietor. 



CONTBEXEVILXE (Vosges). 



Visitors mil find this Hotel most comfortable. It is pleasantly situated 

near the Springs and Baths. 

Good Cttlsine. EnsUsh spoken. The Hotel Omnibus meets all trains. 
SCHUHKBAFT, Proprietor. 

C0RFX7. 

GRAND HOTEL ST. GEORGES. 

Pension at ycit moderate prices. 

THIS First-class Hotel, situated on the best side of the Esplanade, fitted up 
after the English style, well known and highly recommended for its comfort and good attend- 
ance, is ander the personal Management of the sole Proprietor, Alexander S. MazzuCby. 

CUXH A.VEN. 

DOLLE'S HOTEL BELVEDERE. 

E. DOLLE, Proprietor. 

FIRST CLASS HOTEL, newly built, with a splendid view on the Sea and 
Port, newly and comfortably fitted up. Good Cnislne. Choice Wines. Warm Sea Baths in 
the house. Two minutes' walk from the Railway Depot, fifteen minutes from the New Sea bathing 
Establishment. Carriages of the Hotel at the Landing place. 



DARMSTADT. 



HOTEL DARMSTAEDTER HOF. 

AFIBST-BATB HOTEL of old standing, superi^ur accommodation for 
Genilttten or Families. Two Coffee Rooms. Excellent TaM« d'HOtc. Suites of Apart- 

menti, 'Wftli every comfort In the English style, at moderate eharget. 

^ • " L. WIENER^ Ptopr. 

K.B.'-'rhls Botellras established more than half a centnry ago by the father of the present 
proprietor. A lengthened residence in England enabln Mr. Wxkhxb to glre espceial sattsfaction 
to English trarellera. 



It ADTXETItllCXirTf. 



Canton des OrisonB.] HAUXKE FLATZ. [SwitaeiiMML 

HOTEL AND PENSION BUOL 

FIEBT-CLASS HOTEL ; on its own meadows near a fine wood, eloae to ibe 
English Church, with South upect. Draibagre on the b«st method. EktiH PrlTnte RoWiS, 
«nd splendid suite of Public Rooms, with a library of English, French, and Geraiifli Booka. 

Complete furm and fltal)le etftAflltlmie&t. New KCic KorliMXitfi, 
Eleetrle Iilahi* ۥ BTOL, Preprlcter. 

(Fritnce.) DAZ. (LandM.) 



nr»" 



THIS larj^e Establishment, with its celebrated Mud and Hot Mineral 
Baths. Open all the year. It is one of the best establishments on the Continent, and la In 
great repute for the treatment and eure of Rhtnmatfann, Qont, Panfltsls, Neuralgia. Throat 
and Cheat Diseases, and Is especially patronised by the GoTemment aind the Acad«imjr of alMIelil* 
of Paris. The Accommodation is the same as in the flrat class Hotels. 'Pension 10 ftranes tbe Winter, 
■8 francs the Sunmier. 



lUUeSDEK. 



Hotel Bristol^ 

FIIVST CLASS. 

Opsltd tbe Central Railf ay Station, BISHMPIATZ, 7; 

Situated in the English- Anlerican Square, the finest part of Dresden. 

YEkt FAVOtmASLE TERMS SV ^MteiOir. 

ROOMS FROM 2 MARKS. 

O. WENTZEL, r fO j pr i S W. , 



Bsa 



EAW-'Minas 



fWJSSiXHin^ je^. Is known forthe most comforti 

\J '"AMtonmnt- Tab)ed*dMa. PjiTateK^ocfUL BtniardR 




Is known forthe most comfortiil^Ie Hptel of the Ptr^qpea. 

Room. ReadingSakMB wiai.'eoe 



K«««.«-. 



1—r 



KMRifia HOTEL ZilM GRO^SHHtZOa YON 9A(»im 

f P^T CLA3.S HOTEL, the largest ol the^Town, cloie to the Station (Anriyal). 

X^KTO >^ Tables d'HoU'* In the Afternoon. 

CONVERSATION SALOON. ELEGANT GAiRRIAftBS. 
__4t^ill^MVTff^. V^UMMGt. VrmtrMon^ itmA wine. M^riBhaia*!* 



Ponreyors to H. G, the Da^e of Saxe W«ixnar. 



EMS. 

KQTEL D'ANGLETERRE. 

F. SCHmn, Proprietor. 

THIS First Class Hotel is in the best situation of Ems, opposite the Royal 
Baths, with a heantifnl Garden, and combines every comfort. Moderate charges. Bzcellent 
Cooking and choice Wines. Reading, Maslc, BilliiUNi, and Smoking Rooms. Arrangements, on 
rery reasonable terms, are made at the early aad late part of the aeason. The Hotel is lighted by 
Etectxic LighL 

I IJi W rlB I I ■ « III ^ | B I M ■ « ■■■■■II m^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 



^ ^" 



gKQgI.BERg. 



i^uhhaus hotel & pshsion titlib. 

FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, best situated in the Valley, in the middle, of an extensire gar4(»n. 
900 Beds. Lofty Dining Room. Large Conversation Saloon with Veranda. Bea^ng,. 
Bilifaird; and Smoking Rooms. Music Saloon. Lift. Electric Light in all the rooms. Warm 
and Cold Shower Baths. English Chapel in the garden. Good attendance. Moderate charges. 

ED. OATTANI* Proprietor. 

^ ,^. -1 ■ ■ ' " ^ I ■ » I ■ ■ I Mi ll 



HOTEL ENGEL. 



ISU. KNOWN HOTEL WITH GOOD iCGOMHODATION, CONTAINING 100 BEOS 

Oonversation Saloon, Reading, and Smoking Rooms. Eleotrio Light. Baths. 

mmOV: Oi-S FBS. a DAT, EVEBTTHZNa ZNOLUDED. SEDVOED PBI0B8 SI JITNB AND SEPTBMBSB. 

Frm. WYRSCH-CATTANI, Manager. 



<■. ■ »■ F W 



FLORSNGE. 



PHARMACY OF THE BRITISH LEGATION. 

H. BOBBSTS ft 00., 
17, Via Tomabnonl; and Borne, Plana B, I«orenzo in Lodna, 36 and 37, 

PrMcripUoDS prepared by English usisUata Trith drugs from the best London Houses. 
VKBMCH AMD «KRMAN MINBRAI, WATBRH. 



OENEVA (Switzerland). 



^ga^EVA. YICTORIA UOTBJL. 

X^WlS&^Si utuA^on near the Lake and English Garden. Every modern 

X^ convenieiioe. Blectric Light in eveiy Room. lift. Baths. ModentteTPerms. Bxoellent Cuisine. 

Omnibaf. l^ebstofn from 7 francs 

W. nriESS, Proprietor* 



14 ABVERTISEMSNTS^ 



GHENT. 



HOTEL DE LA POSTE.— PLACE D'ARMES. Mr. A. Vande Potte, 
Proprietor of the Hotel, now bears to inform EngUth Travellers that he has saeeeeded 
Mr. Dubus in the above well-known, fint-rate, and beaiUifally sitoated Establishment, which 
aflTords extensive and superior accommodation for Families and Single Gentlemen. In taking the 
altovc-named Hotel do la Poste, Mr. Vande Pdttb is enabled to offer suitable accommod*tion to 
the most opulent Families, and to Commercial Gentlemen, and pledges himself to spare no 
cxeitiuns to deserve the continuation of patronage of all classes of Travellers. 
During the Winter Season arrangements are made with Families on moderate terms. 



OLIOH. 



HOTEL DU RIGHI VAODOIS. 

FIRST CLASS HOTEL, commanding a splendid view of the Lake Leman 
and the Alps. 100 Rooms. Siilgons. Reading Room, Billiard Room, Ac. 

A. HEI.WBEK«, Proprietor. 



GMUNDEN. 



HOTEIi DE BEIiliE VUE. 

FACING THE STEAM BOAT I.ANDING PLACE. 

GOMFORTABLE First-Class Hotel. Highly recommended. Mr. Bracheb, 
the Proprietor, has been in England and America, and knows the wants of English and 
American Travellers. Charges moderate. 



GRENOBLE. 



Mr. TKILIiAT, Proprietor (tSom-tn-laM' and Hueccaiior to Mr. MOBTNBT). 

THIS HOTEL is situated in the PLACE GRENETTE, 14; it offers 
excellent accommodation, and will be round deserving the patronage of English Families and 
Single Gentlemen. Post Horses and Coaches for Aix-les-Batns, Allerard, Ariege, la Motte-les-Bains, 
la Mallettc, Ac. Omnibus at the Station. 

THE HAGUE. 



HOTEL BELLEVUE. 

OLD Established First Glass Favourite House with English and American 
Travellers, situated in the most beautiful part of the Town, in the vicinity of all the Public 
Establishments, MonnmentK, Railway Station, and Tramway to Schcvcningen. Excellent Cuisine 
Clioicc Wines. Moderate Cliarges. Pension during tlio Winter. 

C. J. VAN > EIiSERT, Janr., Proprietor. 



HAMBURG. 

HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. 

TfENOWNED First Class Hotel, patronised hy H.R.H. the Prince of Wale«, 

-^ my am/ by most of the Imperial and Royal FamlUes oi "Eutov^i* ftvV^tidVd «Uaation. orerlooklnf 
ff AMor IJasn/n. 180 Hooms and Anartmentt. K\evta«t \VeAi\\nft wvv\ ftsaoVixw^ Y*«wbia. B«.ihi, 



AUTERTIBEVKNTS. 16 



HAVBE. 



HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. 

RrE DE PARIS. DM-DBt. 

EXOEilDINGLT well situated, in the best quarter of the Town, recommended 
for its comfort And moderate chnr^^cs. Apartments for Famllios. Musie and Couvcrsation 
Saloons. Koonis from 2 to 5 francs. ''KcBtaurant k la Carte.*' Table d'HOte. Breakfast 
2fr8. oOc. -I^inners Sf rs. English and German spoken. OBELUS Proprietor. 

HOMB0URG-LE3-BAINS. 

HOTEL DE RUSSIE 

FIRST CLASS HOTEL. 

One of the best in the Town, ydth Dependence 

"VILLA AUGUSTA," 

SITUATED IN THE EXTENSIVE GARDEN OF THE HOTEL. 

Beit position near the Knrsaal, the Springs, and Bathing Establishments. 

PERFECT SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS. 

SPLENDID DINING ROOM WITH COVERED VERANDAHS. 

BEST ENGLISH & FRENCH COOKING. FINEST OPEN AIR RESTAURANT. 

In the early and late part of the Season (May, June, September, and October), 
arrangements are made at very moderate prices. 

F. iL. X^AYDIO, Px>oprietox>. 

Purveyor to H.B.H. the Orand Dtike of Mecklenbnrg-Strelitz. 



ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL 



And THREE Spoeloua ¥ILIA» 

ATTACHRD TO THK HIITRI., 

FAdNO THE TATTirUS IfOVHTAIirB, 
with private Apartments. 
Has been patronised by H.E.H. the Prince of Waies and the Soyal Family. 

Moflt elevated aitnation. Fine <;ar4f en. fnelncr South. Admirably suited for viaitora 

auflTerlnfir from Oout and RiieumatiKm. 

<irSTAYE H'EIOAND, Proprietor, 

Pnrvejror to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales and H.E.H. the Orand Duke of Mecklenhvrg Strelits. 



INNSBRUCK. 



HOTEL DU TIROL, formerly Hotel d'Autriche. First-class Establishment 
close to the Railway Station and the Xew Stcjuu and Salt Swimming liaths K.stablishmeut, 
commands a beautiful view of the Valley of the Inn, and surrounding mountains. It contains over 
100 elegantly furnished Bed Rooms and Sitting Rooms. Reading and Smoking R'^oms. Baths. 
Fine garden. Special arrangements for a protracted stay. Ini^sbruck voHse6«e.««..v\Uv>.\.x^x-^itc^^-&acv%w 
offers great facilities for education in gcuewiV. yjVwUx \?«£w%Vs^ *X 's^v^'^^^J^^"'^^^^^^ 
Health resort in Winter for weak coiif tltuUons. ^KaA.\.fc»^^«*^^^^^^^^^****^ ^ 



«l 



IKSIBXJQEEN. 



■ i m 1 






400 Beds. Elevator. 

OPBM JTKOM AFRU 1ft TUX OfBCOWW SUi. BVena. fMftittof . 

HOTEL METROPOLE,; 

r]|If tl)(9 priiK»i^lPaoiQeiuide Everj comfort, anda good table is gnaraiitetd 

v^ , at Moderate Prices. 

HOTEL JUNGFRAU. 

Ke»t tojr Mr. fiWOLER STEBCHI. 

This excellent Hotel it situated on the. finest Promenade, and is. sarronnded with a large and 
beautiful iQarden, from which an extensive view is to be had all over the Glaciers. English 
travallers will find at thia Hotel large and. small wellrfumished apartments and rooms, for famines 
and single tourists. Moderate charges. 

ROYAL KURHAU8. 

THE LARGEST HOTEL IN TOWN. 

THIS Magnificent Establishment, just opposite the Kurgarten . and Mineral 
Springs, contains now 150 Bedrooms, 30 Sitting Rooms, and a Ladies' Qrawing Room, all of 
them with an open view in the gardens. 

Tbe only Hotel with Minoral Bathi In tbe Bouse. 



KOHIG&WINTER, (Petersbeig), Rhine. 

MITCI nW TUC DrTITBQBCDP One of the moat beautiftii 
nU I CL Un I RC rC I CHOIICIIIli mountains of tHe SiebengeHlKStt. 

'PNTIBBLY new building and every comfort. Alir lodging-rooms and Saloons with a fine view, large dining and 
-^ restaorant rooms. Large plataaa with forest and parks, and beantifnl shady. promenades. Magnificent views in 

Sreater vaxUiby than from any other point of the Seven Mountains. Bverv Wednesday, Military Free Conceit. TaUe 
'HSte, week-days at 1 o'clock, Sunday and Holidays at ia<M and 2 o clo^; Dimiers and Suppers at any hour. 
Acknowledged good cuisine and liquors. Post and Telegraph in the house. Wwe. RTEB JOS. MSLLBB. 
Address 'tor letters and telegrams : Hdles, fttenbsrg (Khlne). Ck>mmunication with KOnigswinter directly by a 
Cog-wheel Bailway. Conwponds with all trains of the State Bailway and Steamers. 

LEIPSIC. 



HOTEL HAUFFE 

AfUnhrably sHaatca Ftnl Claw Hotel, on tke Promenades, near tHe fltall«iu. 

Bleirater. Electric Light in ercry room. Charges moderata. 

VKCY BKOTIIEK8, Proprleters* 



LOCABNO. 



T Ari A T> ICT A Terminus of the Gothard Railway, on LA KE MAQG IORE. Beat 

liU WAAJrl U« stopping place on the Italian Lakes. OPEN THE WHOIS TEAS. 

THE GRAND HOTEL LOCARNO. 

The situation imriTalled either for a Summer or Winter Resort 

PATRONISED by all the Royal Families of Europe. Most luxurious and 
comfortable home with large Park and Gardens. Best situation in the mildest and most 
constant climate of Europe, without snow, wind, or fog, but with plenty of sunshine. Entirely 
adapted for winter residence. Chemintfes, calorif ires, and stores, ^eautifnl walks and Mountain 
excursions. English Church. Doctor. Society. Lift. Exquisite cuisine. FriTate steamer 
, and carriages for risitors. Host moderate charges. 

Messrs. BALZI, Fromrietors. 

LUCERNE. 



First elass HotsL Lsirffely patroonised 1>y BagUSh Visitors. Splendidly situated. 

BEST VIEW OF THE LAKE AMD KOmiTAIirS. HTDRAULXO UFT. SLEOTBIO IIOHT. 

BESTAVRANT. FIRST-RATK CVISINK. BATHS OM EVKRY FJLOOB* 

BILLIARDS. FINE TEKBAGE ALL ALONG THE HOUSE. 
FEHSIDN (Koom, Ll|dit, and Serriee iadwisd), ttcm 8 llr. to 10 llr.; Jnlr and Aunst flrom 11 llr. to 14 tr. 
Spodal arrangesMnts for FamlliM. J. SIBIBIERlI-ULASER, Proprietor. 



LUXEMBGUBO. 



GRAND HOTEL BRASSEUR. 

FIBST-CLASS HOTEL. 

THE largest Hotel and Best Restaurant in the Town. In an exceptional situation, near the Park 
and finest Promenades. Replete with every modern comfort. Conversation, Playing, and 
Blading Rooms. English spoken. Douches and Baths. Electric Light. Omnibus and Carriages. 

P. BETEMS WBHRLI, SaccesBor. 



LYONS. 



lie GRAND HOTELi de LiYON. 

FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Patronised by the Nobility and the 
Gentry of all Nations. In the centre and most fashionable part of the City. Elevator. 
Baths. Railway Ticket OflSce in the Hotel. Tariff of Charges in every Room. Moderate Termo. 

Telegraphic Address: *' GRAND HOTEL, LYON.' 



»» 



MACON. 



GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. 

On the splendid Qnal de la Saone. Five minutes' walk from the Station. 

Vve. BATAILLABD. Oommandlnff a view of tlie Alps, and Mont Blano. 

First Hotel in the Town. Recommended to Families and Single Travellers. Interpreter. 

Trains from Macon to Vichy, to Bourges, Blois, Poitiers, and Tonrs. 

AU Express ftMd First CUiss Trains take np and leare Passengers at Macon. 

B^-^OlMffltfn/a^ 94. 



It 



MADEIRA— (FancIiaD. 



Reid's Hotels 

ESTABLISHED 1S50. 

By appointment to H.B;^. The Zhxke of Edinlnzrtfh. 

aANTA CLARA HOTEL. —" Admirabiy ahiiated, overlookhm 
Ptmchal, line view of the Mountains and Sea. ' — k tae RendelVs Chdde to Madeira* 

REID'8 NEW HOTEL. — Situated on the ClifEs to the West of 
Fnnchal, on the New Road, overlooking the Sea, gnnd yiew of the Moantains. 
Sea Bathing and Boating. 

MILES'S CARMO HOTEL.~In sheltered central position. 
HORTA8 HOTEL.— German spoken. 

8 ANT' ANNA HOTEL. — Crood centre for scenerj of the intetior and 
north of Island. 

These FIRST CLASS HOTELS afford every comfort for families and tntveBers. 
Excellent Cuisine and Choice Wines. Tennis Courts^ large Gardans, Bathv 
Reading, and Smoking Rooms, English and German Newspapers. Billiards. The 
SANITARY arrangements have been carried out by the Banner Sanitation Co., of 
London. All Steamers met. 

Telegrams, "Beid, Funclial." PampMet free of Flstssinore, 
124, Cheapside, London, or Wul Reid. 

MANNHEIM. 

HOTEL DU PALATINAT (Pfalzer Hof). 

^■TUlS First Class Hotel, situate in the middle of the town, and near the Land- 

JL ing Places of Steamboats, affords large anites of well-furnished apartments for families, and 
•oafortable and airy rooms for single gentlemen. Good Table and Wines, attentive attendants. 
Moderate charges. Foreign Newspapers tak^i in. An Omnibos from th e Hotel meets every Train. 
French and English spoken. BERNDHAUSBL Jt BEIFFBL, Pr<^iri«tor& 



MATENCE. 



T77:£!I/L.KN0WN FIRST GLASS QOT£L. Thorongli comfort, exceUent 

rr eooUog, choice Winer td moderate charges. Since the removal of the railwBir, the finest 
mad bett titoAtcd Hotei in tMe Town^ aflfarding an open fSum ci XYm UVmr. IWraorite and qaitt 
^PPinsr. place for excunicma in the neichboorhood. &mcU\ iztuMBnoMft* Vta ^Vriim «hn^«. 



- . .' piece for excureiaae in the neighbourhood.. BpeeUl iztuMBnoMft* Vox -vVriwi «be 
^ipaeffe the Landing Piete of the atoamers. Omnlbu* mc^lt «A\ XteiiA eX^fla!^^tftjCTBk.»»flfltf»Bu 

^^^*^pnetort UVnoUfWl SJEIDBL (for yc»T»mKi«i!W ^iai»*'««*rtL* 



▲QYJSBXI8EMENT8. 19 



MENTONE (AliB^ Karitiines). 



THIS elefij^antly constructed and beautifullj famished Hotel enjoys a high 
Wp nttto n for iti great comfort. 

gnwiMTtg Beom and Batha. AnrangeBMiifta f or FamillMk Gbaifaa modarsta. 

Ttane Hotel is under the persoiuil spperintendence of the Proprietor, Mr. Chjalxs B«BiiAJEP(Strii»y 

MEfg. 

Formerly HOTEL DE LETJBOPE. 

FIRST CLASS HOTEL. The largest and moat comfextabUi is the 
Towm Beautifully situated, with a fine Garden. 

Patronised by the Royal Families of several Courts of BuroPe. 

MILAN, 

XZOM7:E3ILi OL© l'E3XTn.ODRE!. 

QITUATED on the Corso Victor Emmannel, full flouth, near to the Cathedral, the Scala Grand 
^ Theatre, Tictor Emmanuel Passage, Post and Telegraph Office. Apartments for families, and 
Single Roomft *' Table d'Hdte" and ''Bestaurant;* Two Beadin;; Saloons, Smoking Room, 
and foMigD Newspapers. Hydraulie Lift to every floor, and Electric Light (Edison's system). 
Omnibus at the Station. Moderate charges. Pension. Cook's Coupons accepted. 

MONTREUX. 

HOTEL DU CYGNE. 

npHIS Hotel is situated in close proximity to the Railway Station and 

JL LAndlng Place of Steamers. From its rast gardan and terrace a i^eiidid riew of the Lake 
and the Alps is to be had. ArrangementB for a protracted stay. Reduced prices during th* 

^^nterSeasqpi^ A. EaiEBT Proprietor. 

MoBtren x— TERRITET— Lake of Genev a . 

HOTEL DES ALPS AND GRAND HOTEL 

(ALTITUDE 400 VETSES). 

HOTEL MONT-FLEURI (.«fS^). 

CHEfSABX, Propri<*tor. 

THESE Establishments, surrounded with Parks and niagnificent Promenadesy 
in sheltered positions, afford by their diiferent altitude, and the numerous advantages of their 
instalment, the mott desirable summer and winter residence. 

MOMTBEPX (Ciarens). 

iwoiiTREUx. HOTEI. BEIiMONT. 

A FIB8T-CLASS Fanuly Hotel, in the healthiest^ quietest^ and mA&t^ 



JuL cbMrmtiiff part* ataniaL ««U nn froBk t1k^X4ik%« €i?BlV«»i^!^ ^ixviVx^S^ ^Nw^^ ^^^'^^'^^l^^f^ 
mmd Psrkf mujaoe^m irom Tmn. Latest 8»ilklMBvaiw^\ia«aa. ^'^a)ft««ate(^ " "^ 
laft IpraMr IMgiinenN. ProPii«tot> LaU Manager e| <hft H<>\t\ 



90 ADTBrnnSBMBHTS. 



MnmcH. 



(HOTEL DB BAVIBSE). 

LARGEST, best situated, and finest First Class Hotel in town. Entirdj 
bailt and enlarged, contains In addition to 200 single and doable Bed-rooms an el^ant Suite o( 
Prirate Apartments. Splendid Dining and Coffee Booms. Bestanrant in connection with Beadiiiff, 
Smoking, and Ladles* Drawing Booms. Electric Light. Hydraulic Elerator. Bath. InWintec 
the vestibule, corridors, staircases, Ac., are heated. Pension the whole year. Moderate chargea. 

MUBBEN (Switzerland). 

AKTITIIDB Lest mflBBS. 

GRAND HOTEL DES ALPES. 

OPEN from 1st May to 31st October. Electric Light throughout. Penaioa 
during the whole Season. Becommended for a protracted stay. ICagnilioeikt view. 
Numerous Promenades and Excursions. Post, Telegraph and Telephone. Prospectus on application. 

W* ItntTinBRpKKIUISlff Proprietor* 

NAPLES. 

GBAND HOTEL. 

FIRST-CLASS AND MOST COMFORTABLE HOTEL, situated in the 
finest and most select part of Naples, with magnificent Tiews of the town, YesuTiui, and tha. 
Bay. Hydraulic Lift. 

ALFRED HAVSEK» Proprietor. 



<Late GRAND HOTEL NOBHiEH o& the New Rione Principe Amedeo. 

FIBST-CLASS HOTEL, entirelj renovated. Healthj elevated position, with 
fine view of Yesavios and the Baj. LIFT. £lectric Light. 

HAVSER A MVIiLER* Proprietors. 

HOTELS I80TTA, GENEVE & CENTRAL. 

m a77a UCfllll A ^^ ^* Hotel de Genere haa been connected the Hotel de Borne, cloeed on acooiini of 
■ IffAlLft IflCUIIlfti improvement of the St. Lacy Quarter. The Hotel de Qenere ia aitoated in the moat 
aalubrioua part of the town, ten minutes from the Station by the new large Bectifll Avenne. It standa in the centre of 
the town, opposite the BoyaJ Palace, near the Port, Post, Tel^rnph, the principal Theatrea, and the wide Toledo Street. 
From the upper floors splendid view of the Gulf and VeeuTlus. AttentiTC Senrioe. Moderate chaigea. Telephone. 
Hydraalie Lift. The Central Hotel ia situated on the sMne Piasza Medina, opposite the Hotel de Geneve. This Honaa 
ia more apecially recommended to commercial travellers. Charges very moderate. Table d'Hftt e. Bestanrant Serviee 
at any time. Principal Languages spoken. VICTOR ISOTTA* Proprietor. 



THE CONTINENTAL HOTEL. 

/^jREN^ aJJ the jrear round. Quai Parihenope (New Embankment). Splendid 

^-^ sftaat/on, full South, close to the Pablic Gftrden and Vti« (^«ivtt« ci \Il« town, with nafnificeDt 
tfjr of the Bay mnd Veaurias, Hrdrattlic Lift, Electric \A«Yi\.,TA^tp*.V«v»xA;j«*.^««ft. Ev«ry 
» ofBatbg. Moderate ChareeB, No extra Gharges lot AA\*ndan«» wAIA^gnx*. 



• HEP HAPSEH-SCHAFTHAUSEM (Switzerland). 

FALLS OF THE RHINE 




HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. 

W£OEH8TBIlf. ProprieMr. 



pIRST-CLASS HOTEL, replete with every convenience and comfort, 
-*- 300 Booms. Fire Escapes. Hydraulic Lift. Splendid views of 

the celebrated Falls of the Rhine and the Chain of Alps, 

inclading Mont-Blauc, covering an extent of hundreds of miles. 
Fine Park and Garden. A channing Sammei Resort, noted for ita 
healthy position, bracing air, and most beautiful landscape. 



SPECIAL ARRANQEMENTS FOR A PROTRACTED STAY. 



Botel Onalltnsaa nwst balni at Xnltaun utd tfiliafff nwn. 
lant (rf Elactricitj and Bengal Llghti, Uie Falls o( Ue BMae are hrUUanAlT 



MMOLOB oiram UUTIGB in Om an < 



WURTTEMBERGER HOF. 

NUREMBERG. 

NEAR THE STATION. NO OMNIBUS WANTED. 

FEEtST CLASS HOTEL, situated freelj in the midst of the best plaoe of 

HnHum KttA Lorwi* Clmrch. qnlie In proilmnta Tlciiiity of (godrr niiil chleT vnadan of 

"'""^ ISO DOOMS AND SALOONS, WITH !tO BEDS. 



DMINC, CONfERSATHM, lABIES', READINC, & SMOXIM SAUMS. 

■cpDied ta ForelKBera u wril m by oar C™i i|m »« t* be M» wT UM %tM 
Hotel! nf tb« CtoBU>eMt fkr Itn tut aiadfltBta iib»iw 

IF WANTED, PENSION FOB THE FULL 1£A2L 

BATHS AND CARRIAGES IN THE HOUSE. 

T. S. KEBBEB. Proprietor. 
OSTEMH. 

HOTEL CONTINENTAL 

OPEN FROM JUNE 1st TILL HOVEIylBEB. 

The larg^at flr»t-ol— ■ 
Hotel, Oteitia Um 

Sea au a^Bths, olaaa to 
the Ke«r X 




READING & MUSIC 
ROOMS. BATHS. 



'hi-im Seilaarut 

■AtDRfcULIC LIFT 



38 



08TXND Coatiniiedi 



THE SPLENDID HOTEL. 

THE most FASHiOKABLR. Hotel and Restaurant in the place. Finest sitoiHon, 
tecinsr thft Sea and the Baths, and.n ext to the Palace Of the Rosral Family. 

■USVASOR. ALL jtMOBRN COMFORT. KI.EYJLTOB. 

BedR and Saloons. Omnibus meets Steamers and Trains. 

Me AddMUt "•SPLENDID, OfiTElffD.** 

~ and BsMi -Mfei. OtISBd. is «ndsr the ssaie 




GRAND HOTEL DU LinORAL, 



LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. BOARD FROM 10 SH. 

GRAND HOTEL LEOPOLD Jl. 

TTIGHLY recommended English Family First Class Hotel. Splendid situation in the most 
•*-*' frequented street of the town, near the shore. Kursaal, Casino, Theatre, and Pier, with view 
over the Sea. Every modem comfurt. Drawing and Muiic Saloons. Only Hotel with Electric 
Lifrht ki tho Town. Firstrate cooking, best attendaace, scmpnlone oleanlineas, -EngliA Servants. 
Lofty and .Airy Reems from Ss. €d. a day. Full board, 8 meals, light and attendanee included, 
from 7s. 6d. a day. Advantageous arrangements for families. Omnibus and Hotel Porter at 
Steamers and Trains. Telephone. Open from Ist May to end of September. 

E. DAVID VANGUTGE, Proprietor and Slanairer. 

(Bains de Mer). PARAME. (Ille et Vilaine). 

(Near St. Malo, St. Servan, and Dinard.) 

-.^ — ^ — - . ■ . - ■ . I ■■*■■■,. ., 1 1 . 

BAY OP ST. M ALO-PARAME. 

VIA L S. W. R. TO ST. MALO. 

THE 

HOTEL DE tA 




PARAMO . 



UNDER 







4 ^^ . ^ aa^MB ^ . ^m ^ ^ . :^-^ .-.€■& '■• '^■- «* 










' 24 APTBBTIIBMBKTI. 

FASIS. 



MIRABEAU 

HOTEL ET RESTAURANT. 

8, RUE DE I<A PAIX, 8, 

(Place Yendoie. Place de I'Opera.) 

PEACE. COMPORT. EASE. 



THE QBAND HOTEL 

12, BOJJLEVAXD D A D I O 1% BOULEVASD 

DBS CAPUCINES. "/\ Kid. DBS CAPUOINES. 

GRAND HOTEL DU LOUVRE 

PARIS. NEW EHLARGINO. 

Utim aoo Rooms Mid DrawlBff Kooms rlehljr taniiilied* 
Vftble d*lIo(e: Break ftirt, ff fk«.» wlao laelnded: Dteaer* • tn** wlae lBd«ded* 

Admirably situated, facing th« Lourut, the Pulcs x»n Palais Rotal, and ArsinTx dx l^Opkba. 

SDTSL SES SEXrZ MONSES 

ST CAHGLBXEBSK, 



TV Ik- 



3 

'-*5eif IB MSS4, rmrm^J^i, immFAMtkm. ^ «WTO. 



ADTXmnSIMBKTB. '35 



PABI8 CttBtlnned. 



STEHR'S HOTEL— ENGLISH HOUSE. 

55, HUB DS FROYENCi:, PARIS. 

HIGHLY recommended for its comfort and moderate charges. Very central 
position, being close to the principal Boulevards, the New Opera, and the Dieppe Station, 
Air7 and comfortable Rooms from 2 to 4 f rs. Saloons from 8 to 6 f rs. Attendance, 50 cts. ' Table 
d*Hdte, t frs.. Wine included. Very advantageons for Board and Room, all included, by the day from 
8 to 9 frs., by the month from 160 to 200 frs. Sitting Room with Piano. German spoken. 

Mm. STBHR la Knarllali. 



HOTEL DU PALAIS (FAMILY HOTEL), 28, Avenue Cours de la Reine 
near the Place de la Concorde, the Madeleine, and the Tuileries Garden, in the centre of one 
•f the finest promenades of Paris. This Hotel, facing the South, and built after the English style, 
with only three storeys, is especially recommended for its situation. It contains 80 weU-fumished 
Rooms. Large and small Saloons, Reading Room and Garden for the use of Visitors. Arrange- 
ments made for longer stay on moderate terms. Pension from 7fr. 60c. per day, food included. 
Telephone. 

60, AYENDE d'JENA, CHAHPS ELTSEES. 

PENSION AND PRIVATE HOTEL 

SITUATED in the finest and healthiest part of Paris, is highly recommended 
for its comfort and excellent table. The sanitary arrangements are unsurpassed in Paris, the renti* 
lation of the rooms perfect, and the charges very reasonable. Separate rooms. Large and Small Apartr 
ments. Baths. Heater. Lift 

Proprietors: Vve NOIRE et fils. 



(GermaDy.) PTBMONT-LES-BAINS. (Waldeck.) 

GRAND HOTEL DES BAINS. 

P A TM O W I I D BTTHl BOTAL FAMIUBS. EattralyBewaadcemfortoble; SrsWateforPaBiltosaadni«lt 
* GMtlMMB. The nmtftt Hotel to the Springe, the prindpal Allee. and Promeiwdee. The nev Mod Bathe will 
be OMM fhie eeaeon. BngUdi and French spoken. OmniDas to all Trains. Pynnomt can he readied in 20 hovre via 
VUuhiag. Thraogh Tickets issued at Ylctorla Staii«i direct to Pyrmont Tla Qneenboro', FIoshbiffcLehne. Wameln-. 
twoMrrleeeperdaj. KRIKDR* YOIKERS, Proprietor* 



BATISBOH. 



. aoTEL aatTiTEB Eiuirz. 

PETEB WntTH. Proprietor. 

RS-OPENKD .1st June, 1885. The largest First Ohiss Establtshment in 
' llMtoWB,OTerlookinf three streets. 9«antifalb«ildliicC<tTl«B«Q«<UtanfiA\v;rttfeL«.a)ta!al^ 
HK i fir a sie ', Mad npJeU with every modem oomfoil. Ita^ti^Vnt ^^wSkJix^v '^'*^'*^^^'S^?*^"'?S^ 
. Mmndmee . OmaibuB at the Statton. Cttrvlacw lot Ux«oxi&sm>a Na >3Mt ^^^ifi^ifiS^^ ^«aK©>* 
Mfmfpmp0f$, JMemtteiiMies. Large Balooatoi ''VL«tt«ax»aoi(.r * 



86 APTBBTIWtmKTS. 



CONTINENTAL HOTEL. 

mmj£ fiXPBEBSLY FOS AN HOTEL. 

The Rrst opposite the Railway Station, the Highest and 

Healthiest part of Rome, and 

NEAREST TO THE ANTIQUITIES AND ATTRACTIONS. 

Attmt Manaffement as Om flWISIi B*AIXEilIACSE, SOME. 

HYDRAUm UFL CALOR/FERES. 

P. LTTGAin, Fropricftor. 

PENSION TELLENBACH. 

VX4 IMlfB ICAiOELU, 66 mi 6T, flIOM to PIbbI di l]>agBa. VDZX SOUIB. 

THE most comfortable and fashionable Pension of Kome, -Vfith accommodation of a First Class 
Hotel. Moderate Terms. Tlie trbole House warmed. Table d*Hdte and Diners h {.art. 
Lift Beading and Smoking Rooms. Batba. Greatly improved.- 



MOST Distinguished House in the meet elevated and salubrious part of Bjome. 
. Jloderato Charges. Arrangements for protracted stay. 

M«««<rAM* /C. I tlTZ, from the Savoy HoteL Landon. 
nanaxers:-!^ PITTFBR. from tlie Grand Hotel National* Lueerae. 

GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL. 

250 Rooms. First Class. Every Modem Comfort. 



p. KUdANI, Proprietor. 



HOTEL-PENSION BEAU-SITI. 

FAMILY HOUSE, oomer Tla Lndovlil and Aurora, S€. 

TEE qnietast, highest, and healthiest postMan «f Bsoie, all -the rooms to the South. Brery modem eomfBrt. 
Lift. Baths. Halls and Stairs heated. Aceoimuedation of a flrst-clasa Hotel <if wanted). Terms from 7 to U 
francs per day, wine and afternoon tea inelnded. K. 8ILS1IZI BBOGABZ, Proprietor. 



2 A 8, jsra jiArnoirALB aitd kdz qdirinale. ' 

fJ^IRST^CLASS HOUSES, fall south, SplcaAV^ ^^ivCvm, \.\ift b««fc and toiist 

Lt- ^^'fonmblB part of Borne, clow to the Royal PaXace, o^^^ Vtft \*%4^ wA ^««s.>b««% 
"*«^/V-ito£»Jl7de*rand/n7; fiaiTTH KO0M« 



SUISSE FAMILY HOTEL. 

Via NAZIONALE, 104. 

The most Healthy, Elevated, and Central part of Rome. 

THIS HOTEL, entirely exposed to the Sun, has been specially built with 
•Tery comfort, and perfect Sanitary arranjir^meotB so m to make it (me of the most eoufortable 
Hotels. Corridors heated throughoat. Hydraalic Lift. Open all the year. Special arraivcments 
for a protracted stay, particularly for families and parties during the Summer Season. 

O. PIOTTI, Proprietor. 



VIA TOBHTO, 135, Pint Floor (8 Doom Xrom Via KarionaleX 

HIGH CLASS English and American Boarding House, in the .immediate 
vicinity of the Central Railway Station, English and American Embassies, and the 
American-English Church. The Proprietress, Miss M. MAKLET, gives her personal attention to all 
matters pertaining to the comfort of her guests. Terms iSrom T tO 10 fESJlCS. 



SOTTESBAM. 



''PHIS FIRST CLASS HOTEL is newly enlarged. Beautifully situated, with 

JL fine view over the River Maas. Splendid Rooms. Very lai^e Dining Room, Conversation and 
Smoking Rooms, Reading and Writing Rooms, all on the same floor with view over the Maas. 
80 liooms and Salons. Bath Roomti. The only Hotel close to the Rhine Railway Station, the 
Exchange, and Boats. Moderate Charges. CtL BRUGMA, IlTOprletor. 

ROUEM". 

GRAND HOTEI. de PARIS. 

\ery tkmUelaM and iMsut slt«at«d Hotel. 

"ITIEW on the Seine, Bon Secours, Pont Comeille, and He Laoroix. -Near a Poet and TelegrapbOffice* 
^ the Theatre, and the principal Monuments. ILarge and small Apartments. Choice Cnisine. 
Benowned Wines. English spoken. Cook's Coupons accepted and abatement of 5 per cent, for an eii^t 
daya' stay. Bicycles may be deposited. JCept fay Mrs. Ytc BATAILLARD, 

famtAf propiietrais of tiie Hotel de I'Europe, at Uaooa. 

ST. PETEBSBTTRG. 



HOTEL DE FRANCE. 

KEPT BY E. RENAULT. 

GREAT MORSKAI, best atuation in the Town. Opposite the Winter 
Palace, Ermitage^ Foreign Office, and Newski Prospect. Tramway commiuiication through 
. the whole town. 

Ro— B fnoBi 1 jr. to 85 r* BlvnoTS tront 1 t. 50 k. to S r* ' Renowned €ni«SBO« 

ImxgB Readtng Itoom, with all European Rewspapmra. 

. _f_ By tb* MOM PxtvpcWlw \&\UB^ 1Sd» i- w iB^"^ 



t8 ADYWKTUwtaam. 



Italy. SAN BEMO. Rivibra, 

GRAND HOTEL ROYAL. 

PATRONISED BT ERCLISH VISITOKS. 

BEAUTIFULLY and healthfully situated, commanding magnificent views 
of the Toirn and Sea. Beautiful large garden. Smoking and Billiard Rooms, Excellent 
Lawn Tennis Ground. Hydraulic Lift. 

L. BEBTOLINI, Prop. The same as the Grand Hotel Royal, Courmayeur (Valine d^AosteX 

OBAND aOTEL YICTORZA. 

Honoured tj the stay of H.B.H. Prlnoe of Wales and H.B.H. Duke of BdlnhnrglL 

THIS old-established and comfortable Hotel has been entirely renovated, and 
its magnificent Garden is more beautiful than ever. Drawing koom, Reading Room, Smoking 

and Billiard Rooms. Restaurant. Latest Sanitary Arrangements. 

(The Proprietor, llr. BertoUnl, is also Proprietor of the new Royal Victoria Hotel, at Aosta.) 

SEVILLE. 
GRAND HOTEL DE MADRID. 

NEAR the Hotel is a Branch House, newly built expressly for an Hotel, and 
situated full South. 200 Rooms and Saloons newly furnished with superior comfort. Smoking 
aad Reading Rooms. French Cooking. Moderate char^res. Special arrangements made for the 
Winter season. Careful attendance under the personal direction of the Manager, Louis Ratizza. 
Large Garden. Omnibus to and from the Station. Interpreter. 
Note —The Hotel de Madrid is also the Sleeping Cars Agency in Serllle. 



SPA. 



Gm-A.3SrX> HOTEL IDE L'EXJUOI^B. 

HEBntARD RICHAKD, Proprietor. 

FntST-CLASS HOTEL, greatly improved and beautifully situated, in doee 
proximity to all the principal Establishments. 140 Beds. Vast Saloons and Richly Furnished 
Apartments. Reading Saloon supplied with papers of all countries. Large Smoking Room. 
EXTENSIVE ACCOMMODATION FOR FAMILIES. Great comfort. 



STEASBOURG. 



HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. 

FIRST CLASS HOTEL. Best situated between the station and the 
Cathedral. Close to the Telegraph and Post Office. Interpreter. Baths. Highlyreeommended 
to English and American Families. Omnibus at the stations. LIFT. CH. IIATHII, Propr. 

STUTTOABT. 



BOTEL ICARQXrARDT 

ZS^ MituMted in the inest part of the town, Vn tVi« heautaful Place Royal, 

rrSf^Ja^ tbe BmUwrnrBUtion and the Pott Ottce, neat to tYv*tYiMto% w^l\L*5«lAQ«rf«aa^ 
'^ffi^^lMce, mndimelBg the new Odeon. ThU Hotel w\\\^eloyAm^x««^^>^«wg^ 

^^^^mmdMo^tOoek. J^oSb ai^ Bog Ush Newspap«ta. H.•«A0.1»^V^»wt^^v•»«««*• 



THUN (Switzerland). 



(}BA1TD HOTEL (ThnneTliof). 



Adapted iipeetelly for lonm sUiys* 

dnriBf the whole sea8<m, from 8 francs a day. The sole Hotel in Thnrn with a Lift. Thna 
Is reeommended as a Spring and Autumn resort. CH. STAEHLE, Proprietor. Also proprietor of 
th» Horn. i>v Pabadis, Cjlhvms, 



TOIJLOTJSE. 



HOTEL DU MIDI. 

Patronised by the Duke d'Aumale and Duke of Norfolk. 

BeamUfUlT Kitaatcd on the <' Place dm Capltole.** 
ElJCi. POliBttlJIJBK, Proprtetor* 

FIRST CLASS ESTABLISHMENT, offering the same comfort as the 
largest Hotels in France. Frequented by the highest class of English trarellers. Restaurant 
aad TaUe d*Hdte. Bich Reading Room and Conversation Saloon. *^ Times*' taken. English and 
Spanish spoken. 



TOURS. 



GRAND HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS, 

OH THE BOULEVARD, NEAR THE STATION. 

EVKOPEAH KBPIITATIOIf. 

Highly recommended in all the French and Foreign Ouide Books. 

BVCBNE «riIiI.AlIHB. 



TSIBERG. 



HOTEL WEHRLE. 

r>£ST situation, near the Waterfalls; for a long time well known as "HOTEL t, OGHSEN." Erery 
^ English comfort. Baths. Electric Light. Milk Cure. Omnibus at the Station. Carriages. 
Moderate ohanes. Pension. The proprietor gires best informaUon for Excursions in the Black Forest. 
Hie HoTSL Wbhrzjb, not Tery large Init Tery comfortable, is highly recommended by German and 
Iteeign Guide Books. P. HVEHBLE, Proprtetor. 

HOTEL AND PENSION BELLEVUE. 

•ppoaMe tbe Bcbwarswald Hotel Oilack WoreU Hotel). 

Pthe immediate neighbourhood of the grand waterfalls. First-class house, orerlookloff the 
TOim and Valley; surrounded by a large garden. Trout fishing. Most excellent Board and 
Aoeommodatlan at moderate charges. EngUsh Comioi^ l&iuik vnx^V^AaDL ^ l>i^ ^ ^^ ^ ^^y^ vgt^uiRk. 
Mad LundMU meet aU tnins. 



9(\ . APVaBMEMByTg. 



TUBIN. 



GRAHD HOTEL DE L'EURQPE. 

1 00 ^^^^^^^^ 0^ ^ Piazza Castello, facing the Bojal Palace. Five 
-■•^^^ minates from the Station. Centre of Galleries, Post, Telegraph, etc. 

SPLENDID APARTMUITa AND 8INGLB ROOMS. 

Terms Moderate, Lift- Electric Light. Baths. Omnibus to all Trails. 

B MILB OH BMTBlff, ManngT. 
AVVENTINO BOBGO, Proprietor. 

VENICE . ;__ 

HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. 

rpms OLD ESTABLISHED FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the best position of the Grand 
-'- Canal, has jast been repaired and neatly Improved. Hev rich Dining; Uoom on the ground 
floor overlooking the Grand Canal. QSTdmuIlO Ufl. 

NBW READINa AMD SMOEINa BOOm. BATHS. FDIX SOUTH ASnO?. 
MA«8B11AB MWTMKB8» mf^rtoUw. 

HOTEL D'lTALIE BAUER. 

NEAR St. Mark's Square, on the €h»nd Canal, facing the Church of St. 
Maria Salute. 200 Rooms. 20 Saloons. Patronised by English and American Travellers. 

The Splendid Bestanrant "Gnmwald'' belongs to the same Proprietor. 
_See Text, under '* Ventoe," Itafy Section. JULIUS QRUK WILD, Hew ^gop, 

YENETIAN LACE, DAHASKS, HAHD-EHBROIDERT MAKUFACTORIES. 

M. JESURUM A CO., 

S. Filippo Giacoxno» near the Bridge of Sighs. 

These large Manufactories ha^e gained a world-wide reputation and are worthy 
to he yisited especiallj by English and American Travellers. 

WimBAD. 

HOTEL KLUMPP, 



THIS First-class Hotel, containing 45 Saloons and 235 Bedrooms, with a 
separate Breakfast and new Reading and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking Saloon, 
a very extensive and elegant Dining Room, and an Artificial Garden over the river, is beautifully 
situated in connection with the Old and New Bath buUdings and Conversation House, ami in th* 
immediate vieinlty of the Promenade aad Trtaikhidle. It it celebrated for its elegant and oaxuforU 
Mble ApartmentB^ good Cuisine and Cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent 
^otel. TAble d*MOt€ at! tnd 5 o*elioc;jc. Breakfasts and Suppers & fa Cnrte. Exchange Office. 
porr€^4>adait of the prlaeipal Basking Hobmi of London loft* the payment of CireuUur Kotaa aad 
iSS?* ^Jp'^^^^ OnuObuatm oi the Hotel to and Irom ewaci "^ttSsi. ^V» YfW«*aC«Rta(es. 
^ar nad Cold Baths in the Hatri. Lift to every llowr . "Exo^lVwB^awaoofflwftsWwii. 



St 



HOTEL BELLE VUE, 



THIS First-class Hotel is bescttifbllj situated on a terrace Ikckig the new 
TrinktuUe, at tin eotraiioeof the Promenade, and within five minates* walk from the English 
Chnrdi. R Is well known for its cleanlineas, good attendance, and moderaia ehargeik Tha 
Cnisine dnpartment and Wines will afford satisfaction to tbe most fastidious tastSL A great part siC 
the Hotel has been newly furnished, and the drainage entirelv reconstmctod. Exeellentdittiav saA 
Bed Rooms, famished with English comfort. Conversation,. Beading, and Smoking Uooms. Ladles*' 
Music Room. The Times and other Papers taken in. Warm and Cold Baths in a separate building. 
The Hotel Omnlbas meets every Train during the season. Covered coramoak^atlon betweea th* 
Hotel and new Bath House. 



ZUBICH. 



Hotel Baur au Lag 

FIRST-GLASS HOTEIi. 

BEST SITUATION. 

BEAUTIFUL GABDEN. 



Patronised by English and American Families. 

ELECTRIC LIGHT lli EVERY ROOiW, 

OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. 



::^« • 



FOBEZaiT PHAASS 

FRENCH, GERMAH, VTIAAK^, «i&t;»Aa9&. 

One SMUina eM&. 




SS ' ADTBBTiraitBiraS. 



GirEBNSE77 



CHANNEL ISIiANDS HOTEL 

mis Hotel imxnediately faces the 8ea and close to Tif^"^**c Stage. 

COMMERCIAL AND FAMILY HOTEL. 

Noted Oaiflitfe and liberal Table. Termi moderate. Billiard Bocna. 
H. SIUJKVJH.I., Proprietor: 

Lo^l ALSO OF THE HIGHLANDS HOTEL. 






SARK, CHANNEL ISLANDS. 



rpHE ONLY HOTEL on the Island with a Sea Yiew, and is nearest to 

-1. the Landing Stage, and poneeBes exeeUent sleeping aocommodatioa. Pablio Drawing and Smoking 
Booms. Large Dining Boom (separate tables). The Hotel Grounds hare an altitude of 300 feet above 
sea lereL Good FishTna and Bathing. [Lo-31] D. ROBIN* Proprietor. 

H.B.— steamers leave Qnenisey dallr for Bark after tlie azrlTal of Seslhsmvtoa sad WsTmoath Boats. 



SABK. 



DIXCART HOTEL 

' (n A BBADTIFirK SITVATIOin. 

Terms Moderate. Established over 50 years. 

PARK BOOM FCB PHOTOflPAPH^Pa. tL^ 



JERSEY. 



GRAND HOTEL. 

STANDS unrivalled for its beautiful position facing the sea, is the largest, 
best appointed, and most comfortable Hotel in the Channel LOands. Tlie sanitary arrangements 
are perfect. Swimming and hot sea water baths in the Hotel. Excellent and most liberal table. The 
management is now under the direct soperrision of Mr. DM LxiDi, late manager of the Grand Hotels of 
Paris and of Bcarborongh. pjo 

BREE'S ROYAL HOTEL, 



Lo^^l TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS ;-BREES, JERSEY, 

FRANKLIN HOTEL. 

FIRST CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 

INCLUSIVE TERMS, 6s. 6d. per DAY. 
Lo-381 OMWIBUS KIEETS ALL BOATS, 

St. BRELADE'S BAY HOTEL 

CJhannlmrljr SItvateA om ^» Sliore, 

SeMotljr ealurged, TtaiB on applioatloA. "Dia 01^9 TifiMi. Vii. ^afeAimsl Islands 

Alldrdliu: fitcUltlM Vsst %«8ii'&awa«. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



BRITISH AND FOREIGN 

3IB LE SOCIE TY. 

3IBLES, TESTAMENTS, 

AND 

PORTIONS OF SCRIPTURE 

if THE VARIOUS LANOUAOES OF THE CONTINENT, 

€'AX BE PVUCHASEO AT SOCIET¥*fil DEPOTS IX 

PARIS 58, Euo (le Clichy. 

PARIS 4, ria(?e dii Theatre frangais (Palais Royal). 

MARSEILLES 38, Rue de la Rdpublique. 

BRUSSELS 5, Rue de la Pcpiniere. 

ANTWERP 21, Avomic du Commerco. 

COPENHAGEN Krederiksberggade, 2G. 

BERLIN 33, Wilhelmsstrasse. 

COLOGNE 22, Koniddienstrassc. 

BASLE 4, Stapfclberg. 

BERNE Nacgclicgnsse. 

VIENNA 6, Elisabeth Strasse. 

PESTH 4, Deaks i'latz. 

PRAGUE K 0111 and Quergasso. 

MADRID 8, Plaza del Angel. 

SEVILLE 31, Plaza do la Constitucion. 

LISBON Jaiiellas Verdes, 32. 

ROME 51, Via Capo Le Case. 

FLORENCE 22, Via della Vigna Nuova. 

GENOA 9, Via Assarotti. 

MILAN Via Carlo Alberto, 31. 

NAPLES 101, Stmda di Chiaia. 

ALGIERS 3, KucTangcr. 

ST. PETERSBURG ...4, New Isaac Street. 

ODESSA 58, Khersonskaya Street. 

ALEXANDRIA Post OiUco Street. 

irther infonuation can be obtained at any of the above addresses, op at 

'^ 146, Queen "^ititW^i %\Jt^^V^SS«X^^SS. 



iDVBSTtismftTf- 



HENRY BLACKLOCK & GO, 

tPROPRtETORS OF BRADSHAW'S GUIDCSf, 

i&mttts, CljiOHto-CiHjoarapf) 

ENGRAVERS. AND 

ACCOUNT BOOK MANUFACTURERS. 



icl 



LI I ir:;:i 



StilMnvntt. L*1Uf HndlngV. 

Momo. Forma Nft« H»«il''ir' 

EVEE7 DE80BIFTIOK OF PRmTING AND BOOKB: 
XXBCOTII& <m THE ntnn>u. 



SHOW CARDS, POSTERS, SPOOL TICKETS, VELVET & OTHER Ul 

SPeCtALlf DESIGNED AND PRINTED. 

L ffV/f/i^: f2AfiD 13. ALBERT SQ\iK^l.-AM^C6SS\^ 




ASVISTIMMIMTB. 



Ms\eiJW'mim^9w!mfimimMK'mv'ivjt\£ 





\l Medicines of blessing ft relief | 

m '* to all who are out of health. f 

Are you Bufferins 
IndiseHtJon, Want of Eaergy< 
Diaordored atomaoh, Liyar troable, 
Lack of Tone? 

Tr; the Fills, 
and yon viU rejoioa 
restored health, atcength, and appetite. 

Have yOQ taken cold 
ir hava Oheit tranblea, Khoumatiam, 
Goat or Neural^ P 

Uae the Ointment. 
It acta like a charm. For Cuts, Woimclflt 
Braises, Spnuiu, ajid all moBaiiUF oon- 
rractioDB, it has no equoL 

These Remedies are invaluable 

iplainta iocadentJil to Fenmles. For 
a and the aged tioy are prioalefla. 




HOLLOW AY'S 

I, Oxford Bt),LoildOB,