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CAVIES
THEIRS VARIETIES
How To Feed, Breed, Condition
and Market Them
SNE NE GC
ORK 6
( “Ye
By JAMES E. YOUNG
FIRST EDITION.
‘Price 50 Cents
SS a
“JIM” YOUNG
CAVES
THEIR VARIETIES — HOW TO FEED,
BREED, CONDITION AND
MARKET THEM
BY
JAMES EE, YOUNG
Licensed Judge
Member Board Directors National Breeders Assn.
President Chicago Breeders Association
Breeder of Young’s Famous Tortoise and Whites
and Blacks
Copyrighted
by
JAMES E. YOUNG
Chicago
1918
W. A. Brown
Printer, Engraver and Binder
5113 Strong Street
Chicago
APR 29 918 © a a sossas
Contents
Page
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Introduction
Some years ago I visited a friend who had a few
cavies in the basement of his home. I still recall,
as if it were yesterday, the strong feeling of sym-
pathy that arose within me for this poor misguided
soul, who was, as I termed it, “wasting his time”
raising guinea pigs. I felt truly sorry for him and
more so for his dependent family, and I then and
there vowed that “Father” would never be guilty of
adding a burden like this to his family cares. To me
it seemed very plain that there was no importance
in the raising of guinea pigs. I was willing, of
course, to concede that children could raise them for
pets but for “grown ups” to interest themselves,
was to me an indication of something lacking in
man’s mental makeup.
This briefly, was my view and this experience
only strengthened it. I can only plead ignorance
for such a stand and I am making this confession in
the hope that others who still think as I thought
then, will profit by my mistake and become con-
verted without the humiliation of finding themselves
so entirely ignorant as I was. The biggest thing I
ever did was to acknowledge my error and in doing
so, I became such a staunch defender of the cavy,
that today, my greatest pride lies in the fact that I
have been successful in scientifically producing some
of the greatest cavies that have ever graced the show
room. I have found that cavy breeding is some-
thing that requires brains and skill and a lifetime
study that will still leave many points to learn.
7
IN RO DU eer i ON
In the chapters that follow I have tried to give
practical information on how to successfully raise
cavies in a way that will demand prices ranging
from $5 to $25 each. A few years ago 25c to 50c was
considered a good price. Today, however, the $10
cavy is common and there are sales of which we
have official record, showing that as high as $100 has
been paid for a single specimen. There are cavies
worth much more than this, but the owners will not
sell them at any price as their loss would undo
years of work in scientific breeding.
Responsible breeders use as much judgment in
breeding cavies as is used in breeding hogs,
sheep, cattle and horses. Cavy raising has become
a science and to produce through proper breeding,
the markings and other points the standard calls
for, requires no little skill.
The pet stock journals, the pet stock clubs
and associations and the pet stock shows, are
largely responsible for the wonderful progress in
breeding that has resulted in making cavy raising
an industry of vast importance. The journals have
been the big means of creating interest and should
have the support of everyone interested in pet stock
—support not only through subscribing but through
advertising as well. I have often heard breeders say
they did not have to advertise because the demand
was greater than the supply. They seem to forget
that the journals brought this condition about.
They are too quick to forget their benefactors and
they show poor judgment in not continuing their
advertising. The shows, too, deserve the fullest
support. They are another means of converting new
8
Ne ROD We Cr lI OrLN
people to pet stock interest. Only a few years ago,
one could count on two hands the few men that as-
sumed the burden of making shows successful.
These pioneers of the show room are the men that
have made it easy for us to hold the big exhibitions
of today. They spent dollars and received only
criticism in return. It is to these men who con-
tinued the good work under great difficulties, that
we owe much. It is they who made possible the
big show of today with its 500 to 700 specimens.
Some of these men are still with us and can verify
taestruthy of my statements. Roy @ Kill Georce
Bckert and the Blumhagen-Bros., are prominent
among those who sacrificed time and money in the
early show days for the good of cavies. John Fehr,
W. 1. Lyon, Mead Mayhew and Judge Gibson did
the same thing for the rabbit industry. These men
are all in the front ranks today, working with the
old-time fervor and furnishing constructive ideas
that steadily uplift the pet stock world.
' We have a National Breeders Association with
a membership exceeding 4,000, and branch clubs in
almost every important city in America. The begin-
ner’s first move should be to join the nearest local
pet stock organization and through them the Na-
tional. Itis all one big fraternity and you are given
an -Opportumity to. meet other fanciers; exchange
ideas and compare views. This comparison is edu-
cational and will result in the use of improved meth-
ods in selection, breeding, feeding and housing. The
new breeder is always welcome. It is our earnest
desire to start him right and keep him right and we
realize that only by fair treatment can this be done.
v
oN. Tey Oa Ul CATE oan
This is one of the big purposes of the Associations.
It is the main purpose of the pages to come and if
the author has through these paces extended: a
helping hand” that will assist beginners across the
rocks and shoals of inexperience, he will feel more
than repaid for the time, effort and money ex-
pended.
10
Cavy Breeds and Their Varieties
There are several breeds and varieties of breeds
im cavies.,, While all breeds ane: cood, 1t Js: best.to
center your efforts on one particular breed just as
successful stock raisers do. Experience has proven
that people are most successful in raising the breed
they fancy the most. You need only attend the
pet stock exhibitions or the frequent lawn shows to
find a wide variety of breeds from which to select
the particular breed or variety you admire most. Do
not make the mistake of trying to raise numerous
breeds; the result will be that you will always have
a lot of cavies to feed and no surplus of any one
breed for sale, besides the fact that such methods
usually mean lower quality stock.
The chapter following takes up separately each
breed and its varieties, describing the markings,
characteristics and methods of breeding, feeding
and housing.
1
English Cavies
The English cavy is distinctive in that it 1s the
only smooth, short-haired breed. It outranks all
other breeds in popularity as it is one of the easiest
to raise and keep in condition. This holds true of
all its numerous varieties, which are distinguished
only by their color, as follows: Black, White,
Red, Cream, Blue, Chocolate, Tortoise and White,
Tortoise Shell, Golden Agouti, Silver Agouti, H1i-
malayan, Dutch Marked, Broken Colors, and
Brindle.
The Black, Red, Tortoise and White, ‘Cream
and White English predominate in the show room.
Perfect Specimens
The color requirements of the English are:
Solid and even color throughout the body; good lus-
tre free from off colored hairs. I have found brush-
A PERFECT SPECIMEN
ing the coat with a fine, soft brush adds greatly to
the lustre.
The head and shoulders should be broad and
heavy. The nose should be Roman and not pointed
or of the rat type. The ears should drop naturally,
162,
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
not falling or hanging down. Do not be discouraged
if the ears of your young stock stand high as they
seldom fall or take their right position until 4 to 6
months old. The coat of the English cavy should
be smooth and close without any corrugation. The
eyes of a perfect specimen should stand out large,
bold and well proportioned. ‘The condition of the
cavy counts ten points in the selection of show room
winners; and unless the specimen exhibited is in
-good condition it is impossible to win where com-
petition is strong. Condition is of greater import-
ance than type, for without condition there is little
type. English cavies must be fat to show type.
The deep broad shoulders so much desired, show
only in the pig that is properly fattened and that is
what is meant by condition as apphed to their breed.
The Black English
The hard point in breeding the black variety of
English is to produce a silky, deep, even, black color
running all the way to the skin and equally dis-
tributed over the entire body. The presence of
brown or slate undercolor is considered an imper-
fection. Such color is most likely to show up right
in back of the shoulders and breeders find great diffi-
culty in eliminating it. Many breeders of blacks
use some brood sows with just a trifle of red in
them. This produces the rich gloss that is required.
Size is one of the most important factors in
breeding. My Blacks were running rather small,
and to increase their size I mated a Tortoise and
White sow that is noted for producing offspring of
wonderful size with my best Black boar. I not
18)
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
only increased the size of my Blacks through this
mating but intensified their color as well, another
point that must be considered if one is to produce
Blacks that will win. The boars from this mating
must not be used in any future matings, however,
but the sows can be bred back to the father with
excellent results, regardless of the fact that they
have red or white mixture of color.
Too much emphasis cannot be laid upon the
necessity of using a solid black boar of the best pos-
sible type in mating. In choosing breeding stock it 1s
very important to select your best specimens and
dispose of the lesser quality stock for laboratory
purposes. A few odd colored hairs do not disqualify
unless they are all in one patch.
The Red English
Wonderful improvement in the breeding of this
variety has been shown in recent years. At first
they ran very uneven in color, ranging in color from
PRIZE-WINNING RED BOAR, RED HOT II.
Owned by George Eckert
Winner First, Chicago, Winner First and Cup at Colorado Springs,
Winner of First and Cup at Kansas City
14
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
an orange color to anything but the deep red that
they have today. Che feet should be the same deep
red color as the body; breeders have found this hard
to. accomplish although .at the present: writing,
marked improvement has been shown. The ears
and toe nails should also be the same color as the
body. Frequently the ears are dark and while this
is mot a, disqualincation 11s a detect. Breeders*use
some sows with a little white and some with a little
black in order to produce a richer, deeper red. Poor
specimens should be discarded; only the best you
have should be used in breeding, for it is by this
method alone that you will improve your stock.
Other requirements or the Reds. are the same -as
discussed under=the heading, Perfect Specimens.
The English Creams
A variety that has come to the front very fast,
despite the difficulty in breeding, due to the neces-
ENGLISH CREAM CAVY
Owned by W. L. Crawford, Chicago. First, Chicago, 1915
15
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
sity of frequently crossing in of a white sow with the
cream boar in order to-produce the delicate cream
color that 1s so desirable. It is hard to maintain
evenness of color in this variety and it is only the
skill and science of breeders that has brought about
the wonderful color specimens to be seen in the
show room of today. The feet of the Creams should
be the same color as the body and the ears either
cream or flesh colored without any dark lacings on
the edges. Other requirements same as discussed
under heading, “Perfect Specimens.”
The English White
The pure white cavy has many attractions and
is among the most popular varieties of the great
cavy family. Color should be snow-white without
any cream tint. Feet and ears should match body,
color and eyes should be large, bold and pink. Black
eyes are a disqualification. Dark lacing around the
edges of the ears is common among the whites and
while this does not disqualify—it is a serious defect
that should be avoided. Remember that you can
gain perfection only through breeding from your’
best specimens. Care in selection of breeding stock
is one of the first requisites of success.
The Tortoise and White
The Tortoise and White is known as the ‘““Three-
Colored Cavy” and the fame for its beauty has cir-
cled the globe. To me, it is the most interesting of
all cavies. Its colors come in patches of red, white
and black. The objective point in breeding is to
produce as many clean cut patches as possible—
patches to be equally divided on each side of the
16
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
body and showing separate and distinct, each from
the other. To accomplish this will prove one of the
most interesting studies ever undertaken. No two
pigs are alike and before the mother kindles you
are anticipating what the next surprise will be. The
White in the Tortoise and White variety is one of
the hardest to control in color, as it seems deter-
mined to stay in one patch, sometimes starting at
the point of the nose, broadening out and again nar-
rowing, but always with the connecting link of color,
“SOME BOY”
Champion Boar—South Shore Country Club
even though it may dwindle to the size of a thread.
The requirements for perfect specimens are as fol-
lows: Patches clean cut and distinct, equally and
uniformly distributed. Color: Black, red and white,
even throughout, with no inter-blending of colors.
The ears may be one, two or three colors. The re-
maining points are the same as discussed under the
heading, “Perfect Spécimens.”
In breeding, the specimens with the fewer
patches are chosen, providing the patches are coarse,
clean cut and distinct. It is hard to follow a fixed
line in this breeding, man’s own intelligence secured
through actual experiments in the mating of this
1/
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
wonderful variety seems to count more in gaining
the sought for points than perhaps the breeding of
any other breed or its variety.
The Tortoise Shell
The Tortoise Shell is one of the real beauties
of the cavy family. It is similar to the Tortoise
and White, excepting it has only two colors, black
and red. It is hard to understand why it is not
bred more extensively, for it has many good points
in its favor and can be easily popularized. Here is
an opportunity for some cavy fancier to get busy.
The Tortoise Shell certainly deserves more atten-
tion, and there is a wonderful opportunity, through
correct breeding, to add much to their attractive-
ness. The Standard requires that the color be equal-
ly distributed and in distinct patches, the smaller
and more uniform, the better. The remaining breed-
ing requirements are the same as discussed under
the-headiie, “Perect- Specimens. ”
Dutch Marked English
Marked the same as the Dutch Rabbit; black
and white, blue and white, tortoise and white, and
red and white. Each cheek is black and a coat of
black covers the back portion of the body, the bal-
ance of the body being white, making a straight line
around the body where the black and white meets.
This is a hard variety to breed, but it is well thought
of, and is, without question, a meritorious variety
when exhibited according to the standard require-
ments.
18
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
DUTCH MARKED ENGLISH SOW
Winnings: First and Special Silver Medal for Best Cavy, at
Boston, 1915; First and Special for Best Dutch
Cavy, at Brooklyn, N. Y., 1915
Owned and Bred by T. A. Martin, Jr., Midland Park, N, J.
Himalayan
Himalayans are coming into their own and
more of them are seen in the show room of today
than at any time in cavy history. They are a very
beautiful animal, their body being pure white with
ears, nose and feet black. There has been marked
improvement in this variety in the past few years;
there has been some difficulty in getting the mark-
ings black, as it had a tendency to come brown; this,
however, has been overcome to a great extent so
that today we see many good specimens in the show
rooms.
Golden Agouti
One of the most beautiful of the English var-
ieties. The perfect Golden specimen has a rich,
golden brown undercolor with guard hairs that are
ticked with black, making even overcolor through-
out. The belly color should be a deep red.
19
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
It is hard to do justice to this breed.in writ-
ing. Its popularity is increasing rapidly, due to
the fact that more are being exhibited at the big
shows, thus giving the public an opportunity to see
the real beauty and attractiveness of the Golden
Agouti. With this great English variety “seeing is
believing,’ and in all my show-room experience
I have never heard any other than praise for this
great breed. Much of this interest is no doubt due
to the wonderful type and color.
Silver Agouti
The Silver Agouti is a light silver shade, with
guard hairs ticked the same as in the Goldens. The
belly is of silver hue and should be free from any
SILVER AGOUTI
Owned by Condon & Kemp, Chicago. First at Chicago, 1918
sign of golden or bronze tint. In both the Golden
and Silver Agouti, the feet should match the body.
There is no variety that has made the wonder-
ful improvement that the Silver has in the last few
years, coming from a cream tinge color to a beauti-
ful silver. And when of the proper color it is one
20
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
of the beauties of the show room. The above cut
pictures one of the best specimens we ever had the
pleasure of seeing.
English Brindles
The Brindles are one of the rarest varieties
known. The color is black and red, intermingling
evenly, all over the body and feet. While the Brin-
dle Cavy is a very pretty specimen, it has not gained
the popularity to the extent other varieties have.
Their general spécifications are the same as found
under the heading, “Perfect Specimens.”
English Chocolates
The Chocolates are one of the latest additions
to the English Cavy family, and are attracting con-
siderable. attention. They are a very beautiful
animal, hayine derived’their name from their color.
Their color should be uniform all over the body and
fect pee . herrect .pecimens Lor General speci-
fications.
English Blue
This breeds its the datest addition to the cavy
family, and while, of course, there is room for con-
siderable improvement, it is only a question of time
betone they are persected to asdecrce that will an-
terest “alll-Cayy itanciers, At present theysare not
breeding true, more slate or faded-out black color
predominating the blue color sought for. It is an
illustration, however, of the breeding possibilities
before us. We have only touched the ragged edges,
compared to the improvement that will be shown
in all breeds within the next few years.
2
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
The Abyssinian
Another fine specimen of the cavy family in
several colors. It should be large throughout and
broad at the shoulders. The hair, unlike the Eng-
lish, should be rough and wiry with as many
rosettes as possible. The head must be well fur-
nished with hair, which must in no part exceed one
CREAM ABYSSINIAN SOW
Winnings: First and Special at Madison Square, New York,
and Asbury Park, N. J.; First, Grand Central
Palace, N. Y., 1914
Owned and Bred by T. A. Martin, Jr., Midland Park, N. J.
and one-half inches in length. The only things to
breed for are: Size, rosettes and coarse hair. Breed-
ing stock should be selected accordingly.
Peruvian Cavy
The Peruvian comes in solid and broken colors
and is one real fancy specimen of the cavy fam-
ily. It attracts wide-spread attention and in proper
conditions creates considerable speculation as to
which end of the cavy is the head. This is because
ae
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
the head furnishings cover the head entirely. The
hair on the Peruvian has been known to grow fifteen
to eighteen inches long.
It is necessary to keep each cavy separate, if its
coat is to grow to its best, as they will barber each
other if allowed to run together in the same pen.
They seem to have a mania for cutting off each
other’s hair. Peruvian breeders should bear this
PERUVIAN CAVY
Winner of Cups and many First and Special Prizes. The
property of Miss Daphne Varcoe, Falmouth
fact in mind as a short coated Peruvian would stand
little chance of scoring in a show where there is any
competition. Length of coat is one of the most
important points considered by the judge. The
standard allows twenty points alone for length of
coat, twenty points for head furnishings, twenty
points for mane and sides, twenty points for texture
and density of coat making a total of eighty points
on coat alone.
In breeding, great care should be used and only
breed to specimens having good head furnishings,
20
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
too many of the specimens shown today are very
weak in this point.
Peruvian Silky (Angora)
The Peruvian Silky is very much the same as
the Peruvian, with the exception that it does not
have the head furnishings and the hair is even more
soft and silky. It is raised more for the fancy than
for market purposes, and makes a very attractive
pet for the grown-up as well as for the children.
24
The Market for Cavies
Success with cavies hes entirely with the indi-
vidual. You can not blame the cavy for-failure. I
do not know of any animal that can be raised as
cheaply—not even barring the alley cat. The cost
of feed for one year does not exceed 25c per cavy.
Asin other limes or the live stock industry,
cavy raising has both the so-called “utility” and
“fancy” market. The utility trade is for experi-
mental purposes, used in the testing and analyzing
of serums and antitoxins by laboratories, hospitals,
Vetetatial aud medicalvceli¢ges. A market can be
found by writing any of the above-named institutes.
The laboratory demand for cavies is enormous and
it is surprising the number one can dispose of in
this way. Prices range from $6.00 to $15.00 per
dozen. The demand is for an animal weighing from
seven ounces or above, and with proper care a cavy
will attain this weight in about six weeks. An-
other market is in the sale of cavies as house pets,
as it is very seldom that they ever bite or scratch, as
they are very clean and with little care are odorless,
hence making a very attractive pet for the family.
The best prices received is in the sale of show
specimens and breeding stock.
Cavy fanciers who live in the city and have not
the time or space to raise cavies in large numbers,
devote their efforts almost entirely to producing
specimens for the show room. To breed cavies
scientifically to meet the standard requirements of
the exhibition cavy is a fascination.
Zo
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
There is real enjoyment in experimenting with
the different specimens in an effort to produce some-
thing a little nearer to the standard and a little bit
better than the “Other Fellow.” And so we go on
from year to year, exhibiting the results of our ef-
forts from season to season and getting closer and
closer to. the ideal specimen we have endeavored
through all these years to reach. The big exhibitors
each year show a steady advance in quality and are
nearer the “sought for” today than ever before.
When a breeder wins a blue ribbon at one of
the big shows—the price for his stock advances con-
siderably in value. The reason for this is the eager-
ness with which breeders seek this winning blood
in order to raise their own stock to the same degree
of perfection. From this, friend reader, you can see
the possibilities before you in raising cavies for the
show room. If you use good judgment in selection
and mating, you will be rewarded with prizes in the
shows and there will be a demand for your stock
greater than you can fill and at prices that will make
cavy raising one of the most profitable enterprises
in which you have ever engaged. Remember, you
cannot get big prices without first making a reputa-
tion in the shows and advertising in the pet stock
journals.
26
Housing
Cavies are housed in what are known as
hutches. The hutch varies from a common packing
box to the fanciest kind of furniture. One may be
just as successful with the common box as with
more expensive equipment, providing, it is sur-
rounded with proper conditiins. In cold climates,
the boxes are suitable only for use where there is
heat, usually in the basement, as an outdoor propo-
sition it is inadvisable except in warm weather.
The basement should not be used, however,
if it has any tendency to dampness. Dampness
will cause pneumonia, and this dreaded disease is
a sure, quick death to cavies and will spread to all
your cavies once it gets started. I have known
breeders to lose all their cavies in a week’s time
through a pneumonia epidemic.
The cavy is very clean and practically odorless.
The writer personally favors the indoor hutch and
has arranged his own equipment in the basement of
his home. The advantage in this arrangement lies in
the fact that breeding may be continued throughout
cold weather, whereas it is impossible to breed in
outdoor hutches during the winter unless artificial
heat is supplied. The hutches should be cleaned at
least once a week.
Indoor Hutches
A box 24x24, ten or twelve inches deep, will ac-
commodate four pigs. These boxes can be arranged
in tiers, one on top of the other, the door in this
case must be on the side of each box instead of on
27
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
.
top as we have it where there is only a single tier.
Make the door the full size of each box, this door
can be made of one by two inch strips covered over
with wire netting, hinge at the bottom. When a
single box is used it is not necessary to have a door,
as the top of the box may be left open where there is
no danger of cats, dogs, or rats getting into the
hutch; these hutches should stand at least 18 inches
Practical Type of Indoor Hutch.
off the floor. Another indoor hutch quite commonly
used is built as follows: The structure is 5 feet high,
24 inches wide and 6 feet long—larger or smaller
sizes in the same proportion. With the dimensions
used here there are four floors; the first floor is built
about 12 inches from the ground, this allows a foot
of space between each floor. The length is parti-
tioned into three spaces, two feet each. Where it is
desirable, some of these partitions may be removed
28
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
so that the young stock and common specimens may
run together, it being necessary to separate the
breeding pens. Ventilation is one of the important
factors and should be considered in placing your
hutches, arranging them so that a draft will not
come in contact with the cavies.
Outdoor Hutches
To insure protection from storms and cold
weather, the outdoor hutch must be weather tight
and as an extra precaution—a box within the hutch,
where the pigs can huddle together when the outer
quarters are too cold. This box should be plenti-
fully supplied with a bedding of prairie hay. A box
with a hole in one end will do for this purpose.
Outdoor hutches may be constructed in much the
Same manner as the indoor, with the exception, of
course, that greater care must be used on construc-
tion to guard against severe weather conditions.
This hutch must be storm proof.
In the summer, pens may be built of fine wire
netting, using a one-inch poultry netting for the
bottom. These pens should be built small enough
so as they are easily moved from place to place on
the lawn, thus saving you the task of cutting it, as
well as securing good green food for themselves and
fertilizing the ground. These hutches should be
built fifteen to eighteen inches in height and covered
over with wire netting to prevent cats, dogs, or rats
from getting to the Cavies. A small tight box should
be provided for sleeping quarters and a protection
from storm and should contain plenty of prairie hay.
29
Feeding
Varieties of Feed
This is very important. Keeping cavies on one
food will soon have them losing their bright eyes,
lustrous coats, becoming poorer in flesh and taking
on a haggard appearance, as they soon tire of the
sameness in diet.
It is easy enough to feed variety in the sum-
mer time. Carrot tops, beet tops, turnips, a few
cabbage leaves (not too many, for cabbage tends
to cause diarrhoea), lettuce, lawn clippings and
weeds from the garden can be alternated in a way
that will furnish plenty of variety.
Winter feeding is discussed separately in the
pages following.
Nothing but the very cleanest and choicest
foods should be fed.. Musty hay or oats are disas-
trous. In feeding green food, such as clippings from
the lawn, or any green food, great care should be
taken not to feed anything that has commenced to
heat or spoil.
Regularity of Feed
Regularity of feeding should be followed very
religiously. We recommend feeding twice daily,
morning and evening, and at a fixed hour, whatever
hour you have fixed for feeding. Do it on time,
your cavies will soon know the time and when you
come near remind you of it.
Cost of Feeding
As stated before the cavy can be fed at a mini-
mum expense as compared to any other live stock.
30
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
The feeding problem is very simple. In summer, na-
ture supplies practically everything in one’s own
yard that is required for summer feeding. Lawn
clippings, weeds from the garden, carrot tops, out-
side’ leaves of lettuce,. beet ‘tops, ‘etc.,. in “fact, all
things green appeal to the cavy. That great scourge
to lawns, the dandelion, is one of their choicest
morsels.
Some prairie hay and oats must be fed even in
summer and it is best to keep the hutches well bed-
ded with hay at all times. Note the emphasis is
made upon the kind of hay. This point is called to
your attention because experience has proven prairie
hay by far the most preferable. Care should be
exercised in changing from winter to summer feed-
ing as too rapid a return to green feed is lable to
cause bowel trouble.
Winter Feed
In winter it is more difficult to furnish a variety
of feed. However, this can be overcome by occasion-
ally feeding dry bran making a warm mash, by
mixing boiled vegetables with it, steaming or soak-
ing in hot water. Oats, corn, barley, rye, or boiled
Fice-make an excellent feed.
When corn is soaked, it swells to twice its
normal size. This makes it easy for the cavies to
eat, and while they are not fond of it to begin with,
after they have become accustomed to having it
placed before them they take to it quite readily.
Keep plenty of prairie hay and oats before them
at all times. Table scraps, such as dry bread, let-
tuce leaves, celery tops, apple and potato peelings,
OL
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
or any refuse in the vegetable line are good. Dry
bread may be moistened in milk to make more palat-
able. It is especially good for brood sows while car-
ing for their young. Carrots and sprouted oats are
the principal green foods for the winter diet. It is
advisable to buy your carrots in the fall when they
are the cheapest, storing them in a cool cellar or pit.
If possible, it is well to raise them yourself. If the
carrot becomes dried and wrinkled, a good soaking
in water will restore them to their natural condition.
Cavies are fond of all roots, such as beets, tur-
nips, and even raw or boiled potatoes. Mangels are
also good. All these suggestions are given that the
reader may be impressed with the necessity for
variety in feeding if the best results are to be ob-
tained.
The writer has been feeding sprouted oats for
years and has found them very satisfactory. The oats
should be placed in a bucket about two-thirds full
and covered over with luke-warm water and allowed
to stand at least 24 hours, then pour into the sprout-
ing frames. The writer has a frame constructed as
follows: Length, 6 feet; width, 18 inches; frame
made of 1x4 lumber, nailed together edgewise to
the above dimensions and lathed closely across the
bottom, allowing the water to drain off without per-
mitting the oats to go through. This frame should
stand three feet above the floor. Pour the oats in
one end of the frame until about three inches deep
and water once a day. It is very important that
you mix them well each time you water, until they
begin to sprout. New oats may be added to the
tray from day to day so that one end of the tray is
3f
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
ready to feed while the other is just starting. Three
pounds of oats will make about 12 pounds of green
food. The best time to feed is when the sprouts are
about one and one-half inches long, this is just be-
fore they turn green and are found to be more juicy
and tender. Water oats just before feeding. We
have found a light sprinkling of salt on the oats
about once a month serves as an excellent tonic.
Any basement with heat is an ideal place to sprout
oats.
There are many different methods of sprouting
and numerous different sprouting frames. It is well
to inspect the sprouters on sale at supply stores as
a different sprouter than that described here may be
better suited to your particular needs. In many in-
stances wire netting is used as the floor of the frame
in place of lath, a heavy wire, however, should be
used as the lighter wire will soon rust out.
Water
As strange as it may sound, nevertheless, it is
true that water is not a necessity if plenty of green
food is fed. In fact, I believe cavies are in better
health without water. Certain it is, they do not
miss it or require it if they get plenty of green food.
The writer has never watered his cavies and
I question if there is any healthier stock to be found
anywhere and as few losses.
33
Breeding
There are no fixed lines in breeding other than
to begin with the best possible color and type. The
judgment of the individual in respect to selection
and mating is the big factor in producing quality
stock, Experience is the-best teacher and only
through careful studying and experimenting can
one hope to learn the many intricate points to be
mastered. The breeder is confronted with one
hundred and one different problems in breeding,
problems that are different with each breeder and
that he must work out for himself along scientific
lines applied to the particular case in hand. There
are, however, several set rules in breeding which
must be observed if any headway is made.
A sow should not be bred more than four times
a year at the outside, and preferably three, if the
stock is to be vigorous and healthy. In mating the
male should be strong in points where the female is
weak and vice versa. If you have a male of exceed-
ingly good color, the female should then be excep-
tionally strong in type.
The color, coat, eyes and bone come from the
male in most instances. Size and type usually come
from the female. Never breed a cavy that has a
ratty-appearing head.
After the sow kindles it is well to place three or
four sows with young together, as some only have
one pig while others have three or four. Poor nurs-
ing sows, or those that you find produce undersized
young, should be eliminated from breeding pens and
34
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
used for laboratory purposes. In this way the feed-
ing can be equally distributed, as the young will
take to any mother and the mother will nurse an-
other’s young.
Frequently there will be a real small, possibly
deformed or seemingly half paralyzed and weaken-
ed pig in the litter of young. Where these are
found it is well to put them out of their misery at
once, for experience has proved that the small cav-
ies never develop into any size, and the weakened,
sickly kind die anyway.
When the young are three or four weeks old
they should be weaned from their mothers and sexes
divided as they will breed at this age if not
separated. Early breeding is disastrous and pre-
vents proper growth, and the results are under-
sized cavies. Size, it must be remembered, is one
of the most important points of consideration in the
show-room. The poorer quality specimens should be
disposed of for laboratory usage and the most prom-
ising retained for breeders and the show room. If
you have one exceptionally promising youngster it
is well to leave it with its mother so as to give it the
benefit of all the nourishment its mother can supply,
thus assuring it of every possible advantage that
will aid rapid development and healthy growth.
Brood sows that show signs of fight should be re-
moved to another hutch as a change of company
usually quiets them. The period of gestation is ap-
proximately 70 days, the young are fully developed
when born, and in an hour or so are nursing.
35
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
Line Breeding
No better method of producing good, uniform
stock has yet been discovered than the system of
line breeding practiced by all breeders of pure bred
live stock. While this system has been termed in-
breeding, it is not inbreeding in a true sense, for
only the best stock is used. It is not a case of
breeding the poorest and weakest of your stock but
only the best. Line-breeding is the continued mat-
ing of fathers and daughters and sons and mothers
for several generations. In no case should brother
and sister be bred together. Inbreeding is success-
ful only when healthy, vigorous stock is used. The
mating of weak stock will prove disastrous.
It is important, therefore, to keep a correct re-
cord of the pedigree of your stock. To do this, the
sow should always be kept separate from the rest
of your stock while kindling. The writer has fol-
lowed this system of line-breeding with very suc-
cessful results. The animals should be at least six
months old before being bred.
36
Conditioning for the Show
In conditioning cavies for the show it 1s advis-
able*to: hutch the stock separately, or in lots of not
more than two. Plenty of green food should be
given them during the conditioning period. A small
pinch of Oil Meal should be fed two or three times a
week as it gives lustre to the cavy’s coat, an import-
ant point in the show room. As large a variety of
food should be fed so as to put on as much flesh as
possible.
Handle the specimens you expect to exhibit as
often as possible so that they will become tame as
they then show to a better advantage. Brush the
coat every day with a soft brush or rub with a soft
cloth for a week before exhibiting.
It is advisable to wash White Cavies before
showing, to remove all hutch stains and dirt in the
hair, making the cavy appear to much better ad-
vantage.
In washing cavies we use the following solu-
tion: Cut one-half bar of Ivory soap into about one
quart of water (depending upon the number of cav-
ies to be washed); boil until dissolved, then let
stand until cool. :
Have two buckets or small tubs of warm water.
Apply soap solution to cavy, rubbing well into the
hair, using one bucket to wash them in and the
other to rinse them in. A little bluing may be
added to the rinsing water, tending to give them a
whiter appearance. Rub dry with rags.
Stroke frequently with the hand, as it accus-
toms them to handling.
of
How to Ship
Cavies are one of the easiest animals to ship. A
light, strong box serves the purpose. Plenty of
ventilation must be provided in such a way that it
will be impossible for drafts, or by express com-
panies piling boxes or packages so as to smother
them. Never ship more than four or six cavies in
a box or compartment, as where too many are to-
gether they are liable to crowd in one corner and
suffocate. It is well to use clean, attractive boxes or
cases with your name and address thereon. An at-
tractive, practical box is made as follows: A box
12x18 inches, 10 inches high, (which will accommo-
date two or three animals) ; make frame for cover so
it will project over the edge one inch. This frame
to be covered with wire netting as used on screen
doors. The frame projecting over the edge pre-
vents any chance of a box of package being piled so
close as to cause suffocation. A few holes on each
side of the box near the top is advisable for ventila-
tion in case anything is set on top. A box of this
size is practical for ordinary shipments, but where
long shipments are made a larger box is required on
account of food.
A coat of paint or kalsomine makes this a very
attractive case and adds prestige to the shipper.
38
Diseases and Their Treatment
Cavies are not subject to many diseases and
with proper care, clean wholesome food and cleanli-
ness in their quarters (which should be frequently
disinfected) the breeder will experience very little
trouble.
The writer does not believe in treating cavies
that are diseased unless it is diarrhoea or other
minor diseases.
Diarrhoea
This disease is usually caused by too sudden a
change of food or overfeeding of green food. Re-
move specimen to separate quarters, feed plenty of
good prairie hay and oats, with very little green food
for three or four days.
Constipation
Is usually caused by not enough green food.
Lice
This is usually caused by unclean quarters.
Spray hutches well with a good disinfectant and use
a good insect powder on the animals.
Cuts and Bruises
Sponge injured parts with warm water and use
a good healing salve.
Paralysis or Rheumatism
Caused by damp quarters or improper feeding.
In cases of this kind we destroy the animal.
39
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
Going Light
Quite often a cavy, where there are several of
them together, will go light or apparently has tu-
berculosis. In most cases of this kind you will find
the animal is timid and the others drive her from her
food, her condition is thus caused by starvation.
Remove the animal to separate quarters and give
plenty of green food, if no improvement is shown,
destroy.
Worms
Worms are very uncommon, but should they
appear, a good worm medicine as used for children
will remedy the trouble.
Premature Birth
Quite often this is caused by handling the fe-
male while she is pregnant, fright, bad quarters or
overcrowding. We recommend that a female shall
not be handled after she commences to show signs
of pregnancy.
40
Flashes
In making your start, buy your stock from some
good reliable breeder who has won at the big shows.
Tell him what you want and how much money you
have to spend.
Do not. expecticustomers to rn to. you at first
to buy your stock. You must show, win and ad-
vertise, you will then be surprised at the numbers
you can sell and the prices you will receive.
Give your customer $1.25 in value for every dol-
lar he spends; it is good, cheap advertising.
Visit as many pet stock and lawn shows as
possible. You will get new ideas and become better
acquainted with other breeders.
Do not feed any hay for a day or so before you
clean out the hutches. It is surprising how little
hay and feed you will have to carry out as they will
eat most everything in sight. Throw the cleanings
to the chickens, if you have any, they will pick out
every particle of grain that is left. It is also excel-
lent fertilizer for the lawn.
Do not sell any stock for breeders you would
not use yourself.
Feed the oats in vessels. There are a number
on the market that it is almost impossible for them
to waste the feed.
4]
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
Feed brood sows heavy while nursing, also
young growing stock.
When you have laboratory stock or poor qual-
ity specimens dispose of them as soon as possible as
they are occupying room you can use to better ad-
vantage.
You will have to keep continually building up
your stock. For instance, if your stock is short on
type get a specimen that is strong in type. This
same rule holds true in all other points. We have
sows we keep to improve type and size only.
You will make mistakes, but profit by them.
No one can tell when a cross is made what the re-
sults will be.
Do not mate your sows for ten days or two
weeks after the young are weaned.
Leave the boars with the sows until you are
sure they are mated. Some breeders use one male
with two or three females. We have used one male
with ten or twelve females and had good results.
Only breed to good healthy stock. Your future
success depends upon it.
Do not overcrowd. Sows can be kept together
while not in breeding hutches, using one large pen
for them.
42
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
Boars to be used as breeders must be kept
Separate after six or eight weeks old, as they will
fight and injure each other.
In skinning the cavy, cut around the hind legs,
then down crotch on both sides, cut down stomach
to point of under jaw, then pull hide down over
head, cut ears from body and pull hide free from
body. Salt and lay away until you are ready to
tan them. Many are tanning the hides themselves.
“Young’s Easy Tanning Compound” is recommend-
ed. tis a good, strong hide, and can be used for
many purposes, making nice mats for the library
table, trimmings, etc.
Cavies as food. We have never used cavies as
food, but know a number of people who have and
they speak very highly of them as having a rich,
delicate flavor.
In handling a cavy always catch it around the
neck and shoulders, but do not squeeze them, rest its
rump on the other hand. To show a cavy, place
him on your hand, permitting the hind legs to drop
between the fingers, holding legs snug in this way.
Often have people wondered why they would set
on my hand so nice and quiet.
How to tell the sex. Quite often this is a puzzle
to the beginner. In the old animals this is quite
easy if a person is at all familiar with the cavy, but
when you desire to wean them at three or four
43
Cavies—How to Feed, Breed and Market Them
weeks old, one must have some knowledge of it. We
hold the animal with our left hand, holding belly up,
right hand around rump or rear part of body. On
the male near the vent is a small projection resemb-
ling the point of a pencil, place thumb close to this
and press down pulling slightly forward towards
head. It is very easy to determine sex by this
method.
Do not let your brood sows get too fat.
If your young stock looks unhealthy and jerks
head from side to side having fits, this is usually
caused by too close inbreeding and it is necessary
that you introduce new blood.
Keep your cavies where dogs, cats and rats can-
not get to them.
Start with only a few, learning how to care for
them adding more as your learn.
In publishing this book we have tried to give
you facts as we find them and not copying from
other books. If this book meets with your approval
tell your friends.
44
In Conclusion
I have endeavored to make these pages plain
and to the point. | am heart and soul in the cavy
business. I want.to see cavies on every farm, on
every back lot. The government needs cavies for
experimental purposes, and the cavy breeders of
America must meet a demand double that in normal
times. Will you help us to put it over? We don’t
want the cavy to be in the columns that are marked
“shortages ~ If PF can:help. you to make the right
start, if the instructions you have just read are
clear to you and will enable you to accomplish some-
thing with’ cavies 4t-will feel content.’ On the other
hand, if you have any criticism to offer, please let
me have it. Ii there 1s anything not clear to. you,
‘
let-me know. .lt will’ bea: pleasure to “set ryou
right,” and criticism—well, friends, I love it.
James E.. Young.
45
Tortoise and White Jet Black
YOUNG'S
Blue Blooded Cavies
ibaa (iste
“SOME BOY”
Champion South Shore Country Club.—Shown
Twelve Times and Never Defeated.
A FEW FACTS
SEASON OF 1917-1918
Chicago Coliseum—Largest Class Ever Shown
In Senior Sow Class of 22 with four entries, I won:
First, Second, Third and Fourth; ~3 Firsts,
Z Seconds, 3 Fourths, 1- Frith.
Detroit, Mich.—On Eight Entries:
4 Firsts, 4 Seconds
Greater Chicago—Eight Entries:
4 Firsts, 2 Seconds, 1 Third. Five Black .Entries:
1 First, L-Second, 1. Lhird, I Fourth
St. Louis, Mo.—On Eight Entries:
2 Hirsts, 1 Second, 3- Thirds, 1 Fourth
HIGH-CLASS STOCK. FOR SAL E.AL
ALL TIMES
J. E. YOUNG
3511 N. Keating Ave. Chicago, Ill.
in a hs a
46
YOUNGS
EKasy Tanning
Compound
TANS
All Kinds of Hides
Rub the Compound into the Hides once a day for
four days and the work is done
A Child Can Use It
Sold in 50c and $1.00 sizes
Sold by all dealers or write me
Manufactured by
J. K. YOUNG
3511 North Keating Ave. CHICAGO, ILL.
(ee ed
47