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UC-NRLF 


OSfi 


I 


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iii 


1 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 
MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


KI& 


( 


CHARLES     ST    JOHN'S 
NOTE     BOOKS 


CHARLES  ST  JOHN'S 

NOTE  BOOKS 

1846-1853 

INVERERNE,    NAIRN,    ELGIN 
EDITED  BY  ADMIRAL   H.  C.  ST  JOHN 


EDINBURGH  :  DAVID  DOUGLAS,  10  CASTLE  STREET 

1901 


PREFACE. 

ON  my  return  from  the  East,  I  found  amongst  other  notes  and 
rough  sketches  of  my  father's  his  daily  journal,  which  he  kept 
with  accuracy  when  living  at  Invererne  (near  Torres).  Sub- 
mitting it  to  my  friend  Mr  David  Douglas,  the  compiler  and 
editor  of  "  Natural  History  and  Sport  in  Moray,"  published  in 
1863,  and  reissued  with  additions  in  1882,  now  entirely  out 
of  print,  he  thought  that  although  most  of  the  facts  had  been 
recorded  in  that  volume,  yet  the  daily  record  of  the  author's 
observations  at  Invererne  was  so  fresh  that  he  ventured  to  think 
they  would  be  interesting  to  all  lovers  of  Natural  History. 

I  have  introduced  some  of  the  rough  sketches  made  for  the 
amusement  and  instruction  of  his  children.  These  are  taken  at 
random  from  his  sketch  books.  On  the  fly  leaves  of  the  volume 
will  be  found  those  for  our  amusement. 

The  "  Memoir "  by  Cosmo  limes  and  "  Life  at  Kosehall," 
which  both  appear  in  "  Natural  History  and  Sport  in  Moray," 
are  added ;  also  a  few  remarks  of  my  own  on  visiting  the  locality 
in  1900. 

STOKEFIELD,  THORNBUKY. 


M351 874 


CONTENTS. 

INTRODUCTION.  PAC,ES 

I.  MORAY  KEVISITED,  .  .  1-4 

II.  SALMON  FISHING,  .  .  .                            4-12 

MEMOIR  BY  COSMO  INNES,  .  13-26 

LIFE  AT  KOSEHALL,        .  .  .  29-52 

NOTE  BOOKS,  .  .-  .         •         ,53-119 


Edinburgh :   Printed  by  George   Waterston  &  Sotis 

FOR 
DAVID     DOUGLAS 

LONDON,      .      .       SIMPKIN,    MARSHALL,    HAMILTON,    KENT,    AND    CO.,    LIMITED 
CAMBRIDGE,     .       MACMILLAN    AND    BOWES 
GLASGOW,    .       .      JAMES    MACLEHOSE   AND    SONS 


FULL   PAGE   ILLUSTRATIONS. 

CORMORANT,   .  .          .          .          .         . .  .   .  r     Frontispiece. 

WILD  CAT,     .  .          .          .          .      Vignette  of,  on  Title-page. 

HEAD  OF  THE  MUCKLE  HART,           ,-        .  ,  facing  page     18 

KOE,     ;                            .  .  ,,  54 

GULL,    .         .  .                  .  „            80 

HERON,           .  .                   .         ..        .-  „             86 

WOODCOCK,     .  ..'....  „             96 

PEREGRINE,  .                  .         .         .  „           110 

ON  LOCH  SPYNIE,  .....  116 


INVERERNE. 

INTRODUCTION. 
I. 

MORAY  REVISITED. 

AFTER  such  a  long  absence  it  was  most  interesting  to  visit  old 
haunts  and  localities  in  Moray  shire.  From  the  railway  station 
at  Torres  a  path  leads  across  the  field  to  the  river  Findhorn — 
distant  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  Here  I  found  the  Ferry 
still  worked  with  a  flat-bottomed  boat  (a  coble  in  Scotland) 
pulled  from  bank  to  bank  by  a  wire  stretched  over  the  water. 
The  ferryman's  hut  was,  I  verily  believe,  the  same  log  cabin. 
How  often  I  have  called  the  boatman  from  his  quiet  siesta  on 
a  warm  sunny  afternoon.  Here  the  river  is  exactly  as  it  used 
to  be.  Its  rich  brown  clear  water  gives  the  sides  and  silvery 
underneath  parts  of  the  fresh  running  salmon  a  tinge  of  brown 
when  he  turns  from  a  rise.  Following  the  river  down  a  mile 
or  so  to  its  mouth  it  was  difficult  to  realise  that  so  many  years 
had  passed  since  I  used  so  often  to  do  so.  The  pools  were 


2  -  .     INTRODUCTION. 

unaltered.  The  piles  and  timber  used  to  strengthen  the  east 
bank  from  the  floods  might  be  the  same  as  far  as  their  appear- 
ance went. 

The  pleasure  in  visiting  these  well-remembered  scenes  was 
greatly  increased  by  the  interest  my  youngest  daughter,  who 
accompanied  me,  took  in  the  river,  the  birds,  and  rny  relating 
boyish  adventures  at  certain  spots.  We  found  a  common  sand- 
piper's nest  with  five  eggs  close  to  the  river,  where  any  ordinary 
flood  would  have  washed  it  away. 

As  we  walked  along  the  raised  embankment,  redshanks  and 
peewits  kept  flying  close  to  our  heads,  uttering  anxious  notes  of 
warning  to  their  young.  The  cornfields,  where  wild  geese  were 
formerly  so  fond  of  feeding,  are  now  divided  by  wire  instead  of 
stone  walls — a  gain,  no  doubt,  in  surface  cultivation. 

The  bank  all  round  the  bay,  protecting  the  land  from  being 
inundated  at  very  high  tides,  is  exactly  as  it  used  to  be.  It  runs 
up  to  the  Torres  Burn  and  follows  its  bank  some  distance  towards 
the  town. 

"  Invererne "  remains  intact.  The  same  iron  gates  at  the 
beginning  of  the  long  entrance  drive  still  do  duty.  The  garden 
has  many  of  the  old  fruit-trees  in  it,  which  might  be  replaced 
to  advantage.  The  farm  buildings,  with  its  "  Doo  "  cot,  seem  in 
as  good  condition  as  of  old. 

The  number  of  birds,  waders  and  others,  that  were  enjoying 
themselves  round  the  low  grassy  sward  between  the  sea  wall  and 
the  water  spoke  well  for  the  consideration  and  protection  they 
must  enjoy. 

Nairn  and  its  immediate  neighbourhood  has  changed  more 
than  any  of  its  adjacent  towns.  Elgin  has  certainly  increased, 
but  the  country  all  round  remains  as  of  old. 

Scotch  farming  in  those  days  was  so  forward  and  good, 
little  improvement  could  be  expected.  The  substitution  of  wire 
for  wall  fencing  was  the  only  difference  that  struck  me.  Whisky 
distilleries  are  far  more  numerous,  springing  up  from  heather- 
covered  spots  where  grouse  and  other  game  used  to  be  common. 
The  streams  by  which  these  numerous  (I  presume  successful) 


INTRODUCTION.  3 

money-making  affairs  are  always  located  receive  their  poisonous 
refuse,  which  forms  a  slimy  deposit  on  the  stones  and  rocks,  very 
much  to  the  detriment  of  trout  or  salmon,  particularly  the  young 
fry. 

In  May  1851  I  was  at  the  Loch  of  Spynie  with  my  father 
and  Mr  John  Hancock  looking  for  the  shoveller's  nest ;  and 
having  watched  one  of  these  birds  alight  in  the  long  grass 
bordering  the  open  water,  we  approached  quietly  and  the  duck 
flushed  close  to  us.  The  nest  with  several  eggs  was  in  some 
long  grass.  At  the  time  I  speak  of,  this  bird  was  not  common 
in  the  locality,  and  its  really  nesting  was  not  certain.  Great 
was  Mr  Hancock's  pleasure  at  procuring  an  authentic  specimen 
of  the  egg. 

In  1897  I  was  once  more  close  to  the  same  spot,  and  the 
above  incident  was  brought  vividly  to  my  recollection.  Scarcely 
100  yards  had  I  gone  down  the  big  drain  which  runs  through 
the  great  extent  of  swamp  and  into  the  open  water,  when  I 
came  on  a  couple  of  drake  shovellers,  and  a  short  way  on 
a  duck  and  seven  little  shovellers.  A  hundred  yards  further, 
another  brood  of  about  five,  with  their  mother,  swam  out  of  the 
tall  rushes  into  the  open  water. 

I  visited  the  rocks  below  Gordonstown  and  found  the  pere- 
grine falcon  was  still  there.  It  was  here  we  used  to  get  the 
young  birds  to  train  for  hawking.  Although  the  Lossie  is  prac- 
tically ruined  for  trout  fishing  owing  to  the  number  of  mills 
which  now  adorn  its  banks,  nearly  all  discharging  refuse  matter 
into  the  small  river,  and  being  quite  unequal  to  carry  it  away, 
its  bed  for  miles  is  slimy  with  filth,  poisonous  to  fish.  As  the 
tide  comes  up  sea  trout  come  with  it,  and  can  be  taken  with 
the  fly  just  above  the  fishing  village  of  Lossiemouth.  Possibly 
during  a  heavy  flood  some  may  go  up  the  river  and  get  past  the 
mills,  which  are  mainly  close  to  Elgin. 

When  returning  south  by  Loch  Ness  it  was  wonderful  to  see 
the  tameness  of  the  black-headed  gulls  that  followed  the  steamer, 
almost  taking  the  bread  from  my  hand,  which  I  held  out  over  the 
vessel's  side.  They  approached  in  numbers  within  two  and  three 


4  INTRODUCTION. 

feet.  This  tameness  deserted  them  on  leaving  the  loch,  when  the 
birds  only  followed  in  our  wake. 

I  stopped  a  night  at  the  Fall  of  Foyers,  which,  as  far  as  the 
amount  of  water  that  comes  over  the  rock  and  used  to  give  the 
interest  and  name  to  the  locality,  is  now  a  misnomer.  Enough 
to  fill  a  jug  certainly  trickles  down,  but  the  beautiful  falls  no 
longer  exist. 

How  lovely  the  scenery  down  the  loch  is.  The  big  Mountain 
Mealfourvonie  on  the  west  side,  on  which  I  have  seen  and  shot 
many  a  fine  stag,  has  a  peculiar  charm,  with  its  purple  side,  bare 
rocks,  and  lower  portions  sprinkled  with  birch  and  Scotch  fir. 
This  mountain  is  a  sure  find  for  deer  amongst  the  Glen  Urquhart 
Forests. 

I  have  visited  most  of  the  world  since  I  lived  at  Aldourie,  on 
the  bank  of  this  Scotch  lake,  and  have  seen  little  to  beat  its 
beauty,  much  on  a  grander  scale,  but  not  otherwise. 


II. 

SALMON  FISHING. 

THE  number  of  salmon  nets  and  boats  I  saw  between  the  ferry 
on  the  Findhorn  and  the  mouth  of  the  river  brought  vividly  to 
my  mind  the  following  remarks  made  by  my  father  in  1846  : — 

"  There  is  no  doubt  that  salmon  are  decreasing  yearly  in  most 
of  the  northern  rivers.  With  blind  eagerness  these  fish  are 
hunted  down,  trapped  and  caught  in  every  possible  way  ;  and 
in  consequence  of  this  reckless  destruction,  proprietors  of 
most  salmon  rivers  will,  before  many  years  have  elapsed,  lose  the 
high  rents  which  they  now  derive  from  letting  the  right  of 
fishing  to  sportsmen  and  speculators.  It  is  perfectly  reasonable 
to  suppose  that,  like  other  animals,  fish  must  of  necessity 
decrease  unless  allowed  fairplay  and  time  to  breed.  It  is 
not  the  rod  fisher  who  thins  their  number  to  any  injurious 
extent ;  nor,  indeed,  do  I  think  river  fishing  to  any  fair  extent 


INTRODUCTION.  5 

can  exterminate  a  fish  whose  progeny  is  so  numerous  ;  but  what, 
without  doubt,  ought  to  be  restricted  and  better  regulated  is 
the  system  of  stake  and  bag  net  fishing.  The  salmon  never 
reach  their  breeding  ground  at  all.  The  mouths  of  every 
river  are  flanked  by  stake  nets  and  other  dangers.  The  poor 
salmon  have  not  the  slightest  chance.  Coasting  along  the  shore, 
on  approaching  the  fresh  water  they  find  a  fence  which  they 
cannot  get  through  by  any  means,  and  which  leads  them  direct 
into  an  iniquitous  puzzle  or  trap.  If  the  object  of  proprietors 
and  lessees  of  rivers  was  to  exterminate  salmon,  they  could 
not  devise  better  means  to  do  so  than  they  now  practise. 
Exorbitant  and  increasing  rents  necessarily  oblige  the  lessees 
to  use  every  means  in  their  power  to  catch  sufficient  fish  to  pay 
their  expenses  and  acquire  a  surplus.  The  man  who  rents 
a  salmon  river  as  a  matter  of  trade  and  speculation  cannot 
be  expected  to  do  otherwise  than  make  the  best  of  his  time. 
He  pays  a  high  rent  for  the  right  of  dragging  a  net  through 
a  certain  part  of  the  river  ;  he  pays  a  rent  for  the  right  of 
putting  up  stake  and  bag  nets  ;  he  pays  numerous  servants,  and 
has  also  the  great  expense  of  making  and  renewing  his  boats,  nets, 
and  other  valuable  tackle  ;  and,  after  all,  is  generally  blamed  as 
the  destroyer  of  the  salmon,  whereas  the  real  enemy  is  the  pro- 
prietor who  lets  the  right  of  fishing,  with  no  more  restriction 
than  the  common  law  gives  against  fishing  out  of  season,  etc. 
At  the  same  time,  it  must  be  remembered  that  one  single 
proprietor  can  do  little  towards  improving  this  system  unless 
joined  and  aided  by  his  neighbours  for  a  considerable  distance 
along  the  same  line  of  coast. 

"  A  few  years  without  any  wholesale  destruction  of  salmon 
would  bring  back  this  fish  to  something  like  their  former 
number,  and  enable  proprietors  to  ask  and  obtain  the  same  rents 
that  they  now  do  from  English  and  other  sportsmen  who 
come  northwards  for  angling.  As  it  now  is,  angling  in  many 
salmon  rivers  (formerly  plentifully  supplied)  is  a  mere  joke. 

"  Excepting  during  the  run  of  grilse,  angling  in  many  rivers  is 
next  to  useless  ;  and  this  can  only  be  well  remedied  by  a  system 


6  INTRODUCTION. 

of  unanimous  and  general  preserving  the  fish  from  being  so 
recklessly  destroyed  by  the  net. 

"  I  do  not  pretend  to  give  a  guide  book  list  and  account  of  all 
the  rivers,  streams,  and  lakes  where  the  angler  may  find  employ- 
ment. Their  name  is  legion,  arid  it  would  require  more  time  and 
more  knowledge  of  the  Highlands  than  I  possess. 

"  There  are  few  districts,  however,  from  Ayrshire  to  Caithness 
where  trout  and  salmon  do  not  abound.  Many  excellent  streams 
run  into  the  Sol  way  Firth,  and  many  good  lakes  are  in  that 
district  abounding  in  trout ;  but  mines  and  other  works  are 
beginning  to  fill  much  of  that  country  with  a  population  most 
destructive  to  game  and  fish.  The  Tweed  and  its  tributaries  are 
known  to  all,  and  have  been  so  often  described  by  abler  pens 
than  mine,  that  I  say  nothing  of  them.  Then  comes  the  lakes 
and  streams  of  Argyleshire,  beautifully  situated  in  a  wild,  rugged 
country,  abounding  with  Cockneys  and  summer  tourists,  who 
torment  the  waters  and  trout  to  the  most  unmitigated  extent. 
Loch  Awe  will,  however,  always  hold  a  high  name  for  the  large 
lake  trout,  rivalling  the  pike  in  size  and  voracity,  but  far  stronger 
and  more  difficult  to  catch.  When  fairly  hooked,  too,  a  salmo 
ferox  of  20  Ib.  weight  will  nearly  tow  a  small  fishing  coble  after  him 
during  his  first  rush,  on  finding  himself  fast  and  firm  on  the  line. 

"  Inverness-shire  and  the  west  of  Eoss-shire  and  Sutherland 
are  intersected  everywhere  by  excellent  salmon  rivers  and  lakes  full 
to  overflowing  of  trout  and  pike.  It  is  a  fallacy  *  to  suppose  that 
pike  are  detrimental  to  the  sport  of  the  fly  fisher,  that  is,  in  a 
Highland  lake  where  there  is  depth  and  space  enough  for  both 
kinds  of  fish  to  live  and  flourish.  Of  course,  pike  kill  thousands 
and  tens  of  thousands  of  small  trout,  but  the  fault  of  most  High- 
land lakes  is  that  there  are  too  many  trout  in  them,  and  the  fly 
fisher  works  for  a  month  without  killing  a  trout  above  a  pound 
weight.  Pike  keep  down  this  overstock.  There  are  still  plenty 
and  more  than  plenty  of  trout  remaining  in  the  water,  and  of  a 
better  size  and  quality  than  where  they  are  not  thinned.  I  have 

*  [A  somewhat  dangerous  statement  to  make,  as  the  circumstances  of 
different  localities  are  so  different. — ED.] 


INTRODUCTION.  7 

invariably  found  this  the  case,  and  that  I  could  take  a  greater  weight 
of  trout  in  a  loch  where  there  are  pike  than  where  the  trout  had 
no  natural  enemies  to  keep  down  their  daily  increasing  numbers. 
Besides  which,  though  the  pike  is  piscivorous,  he  is  also  most 
decidedly  as  omnivorous  as  a  pig  or  an  alderman.  A  great  part 
of  the  food  of  a  pike  consists  of  frogs,  leeches,  weeds,  &c.  Young 
wild  ducks,  water  hens,  coots  and  even  water  rats  do  not  come 
amiss  to  him.  Like  the  shark,  the  pike  when  hungry  swallows 
anything  and  everything  that  has  the  misfortune  to  come  within 
reach  of  his  murderous  jaws. 

"  If  the  fact  could  be  ascertained,  I  would  back  a  salmo  ferox 
of  10  Ib.  weight  to  kill  more  trout  in  a  week  than  a  pike  of  the 
same  weight  would  in  a  month.  I  never  killed  a  large  trout 
without  finding  the  remains  of  other  trout  within  him,  sometimes, 
too,  a  size  that  must  have  cost  him  some  trouble  to  swallow.  In 
fact,  I  am  strongly  of  opinion  that  pike  should  be  encouraged  in 
all  large  Highland  lakes  where  the  trout  are  numerous  and  small. 
There  is  no  doubt,  too,  that  the  large  trout,  with  a  due  respect  to 
the  Lextalionis,  feed  on  the  infant  pike  as  freely  as  the  pike  feed 
on  the  young  trout. 

"  There  are  numberless  fine  lakes  in  the  interior  of  the 
Northern  Counties  situated  in  wild  and  sequestered  spots  remote 
from  roads  and  tracks,  the  waters  of  which  the -line  of  the  angler 
seldom  disturbs ;  but  all  are  full  of  trout,  and  in  many  are  great 
numbers  of  that  excellent  fish  the  char.  This  fish,  however,  very 
seldom  takes  the  fly,  and  its  presence  in  a  lake  is  only  known  by 
his  autumnal  migration  from  the  depths  of  the  water  to  the 
shallow  parts  along  the  shore.  During  the  month  of  October 
these  migrations  of  the  char  generally  take  place,  and  they  may 
then  be  caught  in  great  numbers  by  nets.  In  most  lakes  they 
never  take  a  bait. 

"  On  the  north  and  east  of  Sutherland  there  are  some  excellent 
salmon  rivers.  Amongst  the  best,  if  not  quite  the  best,  is  the 
Shin,  which  flows  from  the  loch  of  that  name. 

"  In  some  parts  of  this  county  the  ascending  propensities  of 
the  salmon  are  most  strikingly  shown  by  the  determination  with 


8  INTRODUCTION. 

which  they  pass  from  river  to  lake,  from  lake  to  burn,  and  so 
gradually  ascending  the  waters  till  they  reach  streams  at  last  so 
small  and  shallow  that  the  looker  on  wonders  only  how  two 
salmon  can  pass  in  them.  Taking  advantage  of  floods  and 
rising  of  the  burns,  they  work  themselves  up  shallows  and 
narrow  places  where  frequently  there  is  scarcely  water  enough 
for  the  smallest  trout  to  swim  in.  Having  fulfilled  their  object 
of  spawning,  they  drop  back  during  the  winter  floods  to  the 
larger  streams  and  thence  to  the  sea,  where  they  soon  become 
reinvigorated  and  increase  in  size  with  the  most  incredible 
rapidity. 

"  On  the  Eoss  coast  between  Sutherland  and  Inverness-shire 
there  are  few  streams  run  into  the  Eastern  Sea.  The  Beauly  is 
a  noble  stream  and  abounding  in  magnificent  scenery. 

"  On  revient  toujours,  etc.,  and  above  all  rivers  the  Findhorn, 
in  my  estimation,  holds  the  highest  place,  not  only  for  its  fishing 
qualities,  but  for  the  varied  country  and  beautiful  scenery  through 
which  it  passes,  from  the  dreary  heights  of  the  Monaghleahd 
Mountains,  where  it  rises  to  the  flat  and  fertile  plains  of  Moray- 
shire,  where  it  empties  itself  into  the  salt  water.  The  scenery 
and  beauty  of  the  Findhorn  for  several  miles  is  not  equalled  in 
Scotland. 

"  I  do  not  know  that  the  Findhorn  can  be  called  a  first-rate 
angling  river,  for  it  is  too  variable  and  subject  to  floods  and 
changes  as  to  depth  of  water,  and  though  these  sudden  and  unex- 
pected risings  of  the  river  add  to  its  interest  in  the  eyes  of  a 
looker-on,  they  militate  sadly  against  the  success  of  the  angler, 
who  has  to  gather  up  his  tackle  and  run  for  his  life,  or  who, 
having  made  up  his  mind  to  a  week's  good  fishing,  finds  the  river 
either  of  a  deep  black  or  of  the  colour  of  pea-soup,  and  con- 
stantly overflowing  bank  and  brae,  brought  down  by  some  sudden 
rainstorm  which  has  fallen  on  the  distant  mountains  of  the 
Monaghleahd. 

"  The  Spey  is  another  glorious  river,  a  finer  river,  indeed,  for 
salmon  than  the  Findhorn.  Indeed,  the  rent  paid  for  the  salmon 
fishing  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  proves  it  to  be  the  best  supplied 


INTRODUCTION.  9 

with  fish  in  Scotland.  Everything  in  this  matter-of-fact  age 
brings  its  real  marketable  value,  and  by  a  simple  rule  of  arith- 
metic the  number  of  fish  which  inhabit  each  river  may  almost  be 
ascertained,  as  the  rent  is,  of  course,  proportioned  exactly  to  the 
number  of  salmon  which  can  be  caught. 

"  The  Spey  is  a  fine  wide  stream  too,  with  a  great  volume  of 
water,  and,  though  subject  like  all  Highland  rivers  to  floods,  is 
not  liable  to  such  sudden  and  dangerous  risings  as  its  neighbour 
the  Findhorn." 

What  would  he  think  of  the  present  system  of  netting,  not 
only  at  the  mouths  of  the  rivers  (where  the  stake  nets  were  set  in 
his  day),  but  along  the  entire  coast  line  ?  The  stake  nets  now  in 
use  are  of  far  superior  construction  to  those  then  in  vogue.  The 
present  ones  have  frequently  attached  from  the  outer  end,  where 
the  trap  is,  a  floating  wall  of  netting,  with  another  trap  at  its 
extremity.  The  net  which  principally  marks  the  improvement 
in  salmon  catching  is  the  bag  net.  This  consists  of  a  wall  90 
yards  long  and  20  feet  deep  of  2 -inch  mesh. 

The  land  end  is  usually  attached  to  a  rock.  Where  no  rock 
is  available,  a  small  anchor  or  other  fastening.  At  the  end  of 
the  90  yards  the  bag  or  trap  is  fixed,  again  another  length  of 
wall  90  yards  long  with  its  trap;  not  unfrcquently  this  is 
repeated  a  third  time,  reaching  collectively  300  yards  from  the 
coast.  Sometimes  only  one  trap  is  used,  and  this  may  be  at  the 
end  of  three  lengths  of  wall.  As  the  whole  apparatus  floats,  it 
can  be  set  in  any  depth  of  water,  and  an  anchor  or  two  is  all 
that  is  required  to  keep  the  sides  of  the  trap  extended. 

These  nets  are  set  usually  about  200  or  300  yards  apart, 
but  the  distance  varies,  depending  on  the  formation  of  the  coast. 
I  have  seen  them  within  a  stone's  throw  of  each  other. 

It  may  truly  be  said  that  the  whole  coast  line  for  hundreds 
of  miles  is  studded  with  these  nets,  and  how  the  unfortunate  fish 
reach  the  rivers  is  difficult  to  understand.  If  they  succeed  in 
doing  so,  they  are  met  with  the  seine ;  boats  with  nets  are  kept 
at  the  head  of  the  pools  ;  a  watchman  is  placed  at  the  tail,  where 


1 0  INTRODUCTION. 

the  fish  can  be  seen  as  they  pass  up  over  the  shallows.  On  his 
giving  the  signal  that  a  salmon  has  ascended,  the  seine  is  shot 
out,  and  a  hundred  to  one  the  fish  is  caught. 

The  upper  waters  suffer  from  poaching,  which  is  carried  on 
to  a  greater  extent  than  is  generally  known.  Unfortunately  this 
nefarious  trade  is  worked  also  during  the  spawning  season,  when 
the  fish  are  easily  destroyed,  but  unfit  for  food. 

The  thirty-six  hours'  close  time  does  not  apply  fairly  to  all 
rivers.  For  instance,  when  the  netting  is  allowed  for  long  dis- 
tances from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  the  thirty-six  hours'  close 
time  is  insufficient  for  the  fish  to  reach  the  open  water.  The 
close  time,  therefore,  should  be  a  receding  one ;  giving  the  first 
six  miles  the  first  thirty- six  hours,  the  second  thirty-six  hours 
would  then  reach  the  twelfth  mile,  and  so  on.  By  this  plan 
running  fish  would  probably  be  able  to  pass  up. 

One  Saturday  afternoon  I  arranged  with  the  man  in  charge 
of  five  nets  to  go  out  with  him  when  he  examined  the  bag  for 
salmon.  When  I  reached  his  station  I  found  him  very  dubious 
whether  he  would  go  at  all.  "  Why  not  ? "  I  asked  him.  "  There 
is  too  much  wind,  and  I  am  thinking  there'll  be  a  bit  of  a  sea 
on."  "  Won't  you  be  fined  ?  "  I  said.  "  I'm  no'  thinking  so." 
"  Then  I  understand  if  you  cannot  take  the  wall  off  for  the  close 
time  from  to-night  till  Monday  on  account  of  the  weather  being 
too  rough  you  won't  be  fined  ?  "  "  That 's  so,"  he  answered. 
The  point — rather  a  fine  one — whether  the  weather  was  suffi- 
ciently rough  to  make  it  impossible  to  lift  the  net  was  left  to 
this  man.  No  overseer's  or  inspector's  opinion  was  available  or 
necessary.  This  way  of  working  these  nets  along  a  stretch  of 
coast  where  hundreds  of  nets  are  set  is  certainly  not  conducive 
to  the  increase  of  salmon. 

I  met  at  Aberdeen  an  intelligent  fish-dealer  who  had  very 
decided  opinions  on  the  scarcity  of  salmon,  the  steady  decrease 
of  which  he  attributed  to  two  causes.  First,  the  enormous  number 
of  bag  nets  ;  and  secondly,  the  wholesale  poaching,  particularly 
during  the  spawning  time.  The  quantity  of  fish  he  was  offered 
and  declined  during  this  season  appeared  extraordinary. 


INTRODUCTION.  1 1 

"  Are  the  upper  waters  watched  ?  "  I  asked.  "  Oh,  yes  !  " 
he  said,  "  but  not  thoroughly." 

In  Ireland  poaching  is  carried  on  at  all  seasons  and  all 
times  with  nets  of  various  sorts,  also  by  poisoning  in  a  wholesale 
way  by  spurge  or  lime.  The  fish  so  destroyed  find  a  ready 
market  in  Manchester.  By  the  uninitiated  the  effect  of  the 
poison  is  not  easily  detected  for  a  couple  of  days,  the  appearance 
of  the  fish  being  practically  unchanged,  but  if  the  finger  is 
pressed  on  the  side  the  dent  remains.  It  is  a  mooted  point 
whether  these  fish  are  wholesome  or  not  as  articles  of  food. 

Trammel  netting  and  small  bag  nets  from  the  rocky  points  is 
the  usual  mode  of  poaching  on  the  west  coast. 

It  seems  strange  that  notwithstanding  the  numerous  Com- 
missions that  have  been  started,  and  the  number  of  scientific  men 
who  have  carefully  considered  this  most  serious  subject  (i.e.,  the 
continual  falling  off  in  the  number  of  salmon),  that  practically 
nothing  has  been  done.  The  difficulty  can  be  solved  by  fairplay 
for  the  fish.  How  best  to  secure  this  is  a  knotty  point  where  so 
many  interests  are  concerned.  If  the  upper  and  lower  pro- 
prietors would  combine,  the  first  step  to  improvement  would  be 
started.  Poaching  might  be  checked  by  overseers  (taking  care 
they  are  reliable)  and  heavier  fines.  Poisoning  fish  ought  to  be 
made  a  criminal  offence. 

I  have  heard  it  frequently  said,  and  have  also  seen  it  in 
print,  that  salmon  never  take  any  food  during  the  time  they 
remain  in  fresh  water.  Doubtless  it  has  happened  to  many, 
as  it  has  to  myself,  that  being  anxious  to  procure  a  salmon, 
and  having  tried  almost  every  fly  in  your  book,  without  even 
moving  a  fish,  worm  has  been  resorted  to,  and  baiting  not 
with  a  single  worm,  but  with  three  or  four  large  ones,  success 
has  followed.  The  worm  is  not  bolted  suddenly  and  greedily, 
but  very  slowly.  I  have  myself  given  a  fish  five  or  ten  minutes 
to  do  so,  being  careful  not  to  tighten  the  line  during  the 
process,  and  wondering  at  the  moment  whether  enjoyment  at 
having  found  such  a  pleasant  mouthful  of  real  food  was  the  cause 
of  this  deliberation.  The  shrimp  also  is  very  sure  bait. 


12  INTRODUCTION. 

A  keen  fisherman  told  me  a  curious  incident  which  happened 
to  himself.  He  was  using  a  fly  with  a  double  hook,  which  a 
salmon  of  9  Ibs.  took.  The  fish  made  a  short  quick  rush,  and 
then  came  straight  in  like  a  log  of  wood,  and  was  pulled  out 
on  the  gravel  just  alive  and  no  more.  The  hook  had  one  barb  in 
the  upper  jaw  and  the  other  barb  in  the  lower,  the  mouth  being 
closed  so  tightly  that  the  fish  was  simply  drowned.  Within  the 
mouth  and  gills  was  a  whole  fresh  trout  4  in.  long,  half  another, 
very  much  decomposed,  and  several  worms.  All  this  food 
had  been  stopped  in  the  act  of  being  cast  out,  a  circumstance,  I 
believe,  that  usually,  if  not  always,  takes  place  on  a  fish  being 
hooked,  suddenly  seized,  and  possibly  when  very  much  startled. 

The  above  circumstances  would  satisfy  most  people  that  food 
is  taken  by  salmon  when  in  fresh  water.  Why  they  take 
the  artificial  fly,  except  mistaking  it  for  a  shrimp,  I  cannot  say. 
The  minnow  is  a  good  representative  of  a  trout  or  a  fly.  The 
colley,^  which  is  very  much  used  in  Ireland  by  poachers  as  well 
as  legitimate  fishermen,  is  very  deadly. 

I  may  here  refer  to  a  river  I  visited  in  Yesso,  the  northern 
island  of  the  Japanese  group,  where  the  lower  three  miles  was 
fished  to  a  scale  unknown  in  England.  The  time  for  netting 
opened  the  third  week  in  August  and  closed  the  second  week  in 
October,  during  which  time — about  seven  weeks — the  average 
season's  catch  of  salmon  was  6000  tons.  No  outside  or  coast 
fishing  existed.  The  fish  were  left  free,  and  had  time  to  repro- 
duce their  species  without  further  persecution. 

*  "  Colley,"  local  name  for  a  loach. 


MEMOIR. 

CHARLES  ST  JOHN,  or,  to  speak  accurately,  Charles  William  George 
St  John,  the  author  of  "  Wild  Sports  of  the  Highlands,"  and  of 
these  observations  and  notes  of  natural  history,  was  the  son  of 
General  the  Hon.  Frederick  St  John,  who  was  the  second  son  of 
Frederick,  second  Viscount  Bolingbroke.  Charles  was  born  3rd 
December  1809.  The  first  account  I  have  of  him  is  from  his 
schoolfellow  and  dear  friend,  a  frequent  companion  in  his  after 
years,  and  a  fellow-student  of  nature  as  well  as  fellow-sportsman. 
Mr  Thomas  Jeans  writes  to  me : — 

"  My  friendship  with  Charles  St  John  began  about  the  year 
1821,  when  he  was  first  sent  to  school  at  Midhurst,  in  Sussex, 
when  Dr  Bayly  was  head-master.  He  might  then  have  been 
about  eleven  years  of  age.  I  remember  perfectly  his  first  appear- 
ance as  a  '  new  boy  ' — handsome,  fair-haired,  quiet,  and  gentleman- 
like. I  can  see  him  now,  standing  near  the  ponderous  '  iron  door  ' 
which  had  just  been  shut  upon  him  by  the  porter,  and  which 
separated  us  from  the  outer  world.  My  happening  to  know  a 
relative  of  his  was  our  first  bond  of  union,  and  the  similarity  of 
our  tastes  cemented  it.  We  became  friends  at  once,  and  worked 
our  way  up  together  in  the  school.  Though  I  was  his  senior  by  a 


14  MEMOIR. 

year  or  two,  he  was  far  ahead  of  me  in  all  the  theory  and  some  of 
the  practice  of  '  wild  sports.'  But  it  was  under  the  tuition  of  a 
certain  old  pensioner,  who,  in  virtue  of  his  weekly  function  in  the 
school,  went  by  the  name  of  the  drill-sergeant,  that  we  both  at- 
tained to  no  mean  proficiency  in  spinning  for  trout  and  trolling  for 
pike  in  the  river  Arun  whenever  we  could  shirk  out  of  bounds  on 
half-holidays,  as  well  as  in  setting  night-lines  artistically  for  eels. 

"  Even  at  that  time  St  John  had  the  zoological  bump  largely 
developed.  His  box  (or  scobb,  as  we  used  to  call  it,  after  the 
Winchester  fashion)  was  generally  a  sort  of  menagerie — dormice 
in  the  one  till,  stag-beetles  of  gigantic  size  and  wonderful  cater- 
pillars in  paper  boxes  in  the  other,  while  sometimes  a  rabbit,  some- 
times a  guinea-pig,  or  perhaps  a  squirrel,  was  lodged  below  in  a  cell 
cunningly  constructed  of  the  Delphin  classics  and  Ainsworth's 
Dictionary.  He  was  scarcely  without  live-stock  of  some  sort. 

"  I  think  he  must  have  left  Midhurst  after  remaining  there 
about  four  years,  and  then  I  lost  sight  of  him  for  a  time.  In  1828 
(I  think)  I  found  him  appointed  to  a  clerkship  in  the  Treasury, 
junior  to  an  old  schoolfellow  of  ours,  Edward  Ricketts,  who,  years 
afterwards,  married  a  sister  of  Mrs  St  John's."  Mr  Jeans  speaks 
of  his  life  at  this  time  as  "  somewhat  fast :  his  connections  gave 
him  the  entree  everywhere  (his  aunt,  Lady  Sefton,  was  then  a  great 
leader),  and  the  result  was  his  giving  the  Treasury,  as  he  used 
himself  to  say,  '  notice  to  quit/  to  prevent  the  proceedings  being 
reversed,  and  he  left  town.  Here  is  a  hiatus  in  his  history,  or 
rather  in  my  history  of  him.  Ricketts  could  fill  this  page."  Mr 
Ricketts  is  good  enough  to  recall  for  me  his  recollection  of  his 
schoolfellow  and  fellow-clerk  at  the  Treasury.  Their  intimacy 
began,  he  says,  "  while  St  John  was  chafing  like  a  caged  eagle  at 
the  desk  of  a  Government  office."  And  here  Mr  Ricketts  has  some 
remarks  which  I  cannot  refrain  from  copying  : — "  If  parents  would 
but  study  the  happiness  and  the  probable  success  of  their  children 
rather  than  their  own  convenience  in  getting  them  off  their  hands, 
they  would  not  commit  such  a  fatal  mistake  as  that  of  expecting  a 
high-spirited  lad,  with  our  late  friend's  restless  spirit  and  love  of 
sport,  to  settle  down  to  the  drudgery  of  a  clerkship.  He  had 


MEMOIR.  1 5 

talents,  as  you  know ;  he  wrote  a  good  hand,  and  worked  with  great 
rapidity,  but  his  heart  was  elsewhere,  and  three  or  four  years 
sufficed  to  prove  the  attempt  an  utter  failure.  During  his  period- 
ical holidays  he  joined  some  friends  in  expeditions  to  the  moors 
of  the  north  of  Scotland,  where  he  found  himself  in  his  proper 
element,  and  whence  he  could  not,  or  would  not,  tear  himself  to 
resume  a  duty  which  was  odious  to  him,  and  his  connection  with 
the  Treasury,  which  had  begun  in  (I  think)  1829,  ceased  about  the 
latter  part  of  1833,  or  early  in  1834. 

Mr  Eicketts  says  St  John  went  little  into  general  society ; 
"  the  formalities  of  London  life  were  irksome  to  him,  and  when, 
after  he  had  left  London  some  time,  I  visited  him  in  his  Koss-shire 
home,  he  seemed  a  far  happier  man  than  while  writhing  under 
the  restraint  of  London  conventionalities  and  official  routine." 

Some  of  that  early  aversion  for  mixed  society  which  Mr 
llicketts  describes  in  St  John  may,  I  think,  be  attributed  to  an 
impediment  in  his  speech,  which,  like  all  such  nervous  affections, 
was  most  felt  in  his  intercourse  with  strangers.  It  almost  dis- 
appeared when  he  was  among  familiar  friends,  and  with  them  his 
conversation  was  easy  and  flowing. 

Mr  Jeans,  after  speaking  of  St  John's  life  as  a  Treasury  clerk, 
says  : — "  I  next  hear  of  him  settled  at  Rosehall  in  Sutherland.  The 
place  was  lent  him  by  his  cousin,  the  late  Lord.  Bolingbroke,  and 
here  he  lived  a  perfectly  secluded  wild  life,  having  good  scope  for 
improving  his  experiences  in  natural  history,  and  a  wide  range 
for  indulging  his  tastes  for  shooting  and  fishing." 

It  was  on  an  expedition  from  llosehall  that  St  John  met  Miss 
Anne  Gibson,  to  whom  he  was  married  in  November  1834.  Miss 
Gibson  had  some  fortune,  a  commodity  in  which  her  husband  was 
sadly  unprovided,  and  as  the  lady,  with  a  true  wife's  devotion, 
accommodated  herself  to  her  husband's  tastes  and  manner  of  life, 
he  was  enabled  henceforward  to  live  the  life  of  a  sportsman  and 
naturalist  in  the  Highlands,  which  was  only  modified  when  the 
necessity  of  educating  a  young  family  induced  them  to  draw  near 
schools.  The  St  Johns  lived  at  various  places  rented  with  these 
views,  chosen  for  their  picturesque  beauties,  or  capabilities  of  sport 


1 6  MEMOIR. 

and  opportunities  of  study  of  wild  animal  life.  I  have  heard  him 
dwell  especially  on  pleasant  recollections  of  Eosehall — of  Aldourie 
— a  charming  place  of  the  Tytler  family  on  Loch  Ness,  and  some 
others  beyond  the  Moray  Firth.  But  in  due  time  he  discovered  the 
region  best  suited  to  his  taste  and  happiness  in  the  "Laigh"  of 
Moray,  a  fertile  and  well-cultivated  country,  with  dry  soil  and 
bright  and  bracing  climate,  with  wide  views  of  sea  and  mountain, 
within  easy  distance  of  mountain  sport,  in  the  midst  of  the  game 
and  wild  animals  of  a  low  country,  and  with  the  coast  indented 
by  bays  of  the  sea  and  studded  with  frequent  fresh-water  lakes,  the 
haunt  of  all  the  common  wildfowl  and  of  many  of  the  rarer  sorts. 
It  was  in  that  country,  for  the  most  part,  that  St  John  spent  the 
last  ten  years  of  his  active  life,  before  he  was  struck  by  his  fatal 
malady. 

I  became  acquainted  with  Charles  St  John  in  my  autumn 
vacation  of  1844,  while  I  was  Sheriff  of  Moray.  He  was  then 
living  at  Invererne,  below  Torres,  and  I  used  to  shoot  sometimes  on 
an  adjoining  property.  We  had  some  common  friends,  and  messages 
of  civility  had  passed  between  us,  but  we  had  not  yet  met ;  when 
one  day  in  October  I  was  shooting  down  the  river  side,  and  the 
islands  in  the  Findhorn,  making  out  a  bag  of  partridges  laboriously. 
It  was  a  windy  day,  and  the  birds  going  off  wild  spoilt  my  shooting, 
which  is  at  best  uncertain.  While  I  was  on  the  island,  two  birds 
had  gone  away  wounded  into  a  large  turnip-field  across  the  river. 
I  waded  the  river  after  them,  and  was  vainly  endeavouring  to 
recover  them  with  my  pointers,  when  a  man  pushed  through  the 
hedge  from  the  Invererne  side,  followed  by  a  dog  making  straight 
for  me.  There  was  no  mistaking  the  gentleman — a  sportsman  all 
over,  though  without  any  "  getting  up  "  for  sport,  and  without  a 
gun.  I  waited  for  him,  and  on  coming  up  he  said  he  had  seen  my 
birds  pitch,  and  offered  to  find  them  for  me  if  I  would  take  up  my 
dogs.  When  my  pointers  were  coupled,  he  called  "  Grip,"  and  his 
companion,  a  large  poodle  with  a  Mephistopheles  expression,  began 
travelling  across  and  across  the  drills,  till  suddenly  he  struck  the 
scent,  and  then  with  a  series  of  curious  jumps  on  all  fours,  and 
pauses  between,  to  listen  for  the  moving  of  the  bird,  he  made  quick 


MEMOIR.  1 7 

work  with  bird  No.  1,  and  so  with  bird  No.  2.      I  never  saw  so 
perfect  a  dog  for  retrieving,  but  he  was  not  handsome. 

After  this  introduction  St  John  and  I  became  frequent  com- 
panions. T  soon  found  there  was  something  in  him  beyond  the 
common  slaughtering  sportsman  ;  and  he  must  have  discovered  that 
the  old  sheriff  had  some  tastes  with  which  he  could  sympathise. 
The  remainder  of  that  season  we  were  very  much  together,  and 
often  took  our  exercise  and  sport  in  company.  On  one  of  these 


occasions  we  went  together  to  join  a  battue  at  Dunphail ;  but  the 
weather  was  too  bad,  and  after  waiting  for  some  hours  without 
taking  our  guns  out  of  their  cover,  St  John  and  I  returned  to 
Knockomie,  a  cottage  of  relations  of  mine  near  Torres,  who  have 
made  it  my  second  home  for  many  years.  We  travelled  in  St 
John's  dogcart  through  steady  heavy  rain.  I  was  well  clothed  in 
a  thick  topcoat,  and  he  in  a  pea-jacket  of  sealskins  of  his  own 
shooting,  so  that  there  was  no  suffering  from  the  weather  as  we 

B 


1 8  MEMOIR. 

drove  down  through  the  shelter  of  the  Altyre  woods  ;  and  the  way 
was  shortened  to  me  by  my  companion  telling  story  after  story 
of  sport  and  adventure,  or  answering  with  wonderful  precision  my, 
questions  about  birds,  beasts,  and  fishes.  He  stayed  with  me  that 
night,  and  when  we  were  alone  after  dinner,  1  broached  a  subject 
which  had  often  come  into  my  head  since  we  were  so  much  in 
each  other's  society.  Why  should  he  not  give  the  world  the 
benefit  of  his  fresh  enjoyment  of  sport — his  accurate  observation 
of  the  habits  of  animals  ?  At  first  he  ridiculed  the  idea.  He  had 
never  written  anything  beyond  a  note  of  correspondence — didn't 
think  he  could  write,  etc.  etc.  But  at  length  he  listened  to  some 
arguments.  It  was  very  true  he  had  too  much  idle  time,  espe- 
cially in  winter — nothing  he  so  much  regretted  as  that  he  was  an 
idle  man.  He  had  some  old  journals  that  might  be  useful.  He 
could  note  down  every  day's  observations,  too.  In  short,  he  would 
try  his  hand  on  some  chapters  next  winter.  And  so  it  came  to 
pass,  that  during  next  winter  I  was  periodically  receiving  little 
essays  on  mixed  sport  and  natural  history,  which  it  was  a  great 
pleasure  to  me  to  criticise  ;  and  no  one  could  take  the  smooth  and 
the  rough  of  criticism  more  good-naturedly  than  St  John.  As 
these  chapters  gathered  size  and  consistency,  it  became  a  question 
how  to  turn  them  to  account,  and  this  was  solved  by  accident. 
At  that  time  I  was  in  the  habit  of  writing  an  article  occasionally 
for  the  Quarterly,  and  I  put  together  one  on  Scotch  sport,  using  as 
my  material  some  of  St  John's  chapters,  especially  the  story  of  the 
Muckle  Hart  of  Benmore.  The  paper  pleased  Mr  Lockhart.  "  It 
would  itself  be  sufficient "  (he  said)  "  to  float  any  number.  .  .  . 
Whether  the  capital  journal  laid  under  contribution  be  your  own 
or  another's  I  don't  know,  but  everyone  will  wish  to  see  more  of 
it."  :  I  received  the  Editor's  letter  at  Knockomie,  and,  next  day, 
the  reading  of  it  to  St  John  served  for  seasoning  as  we  took  our 
shooting  lunch  together  beside  the  spring  among  the  whins  on  the 
brae  of  Blervie.  Our  course  was  now  plain.  I  divided  the  money 
produce  of  the  Quarterly  article  with  St  John,  who  rejoiced  greatly 
in  the  first  money  he  had  ever  made  by  his  own  exertions  ;  and,  on 

*  Letter  from  J.  G.  Lockhart,  20th  September  1845. 


HEAD  OF  THE  MUCKLE  HAET. 


MEMOIR.  19 

my  next  visit  to  London,  I  arranged  for  him  the  sale  of  the  whole 
chapters,  the  produce  of  his  last  winter's  industry,  which  Mr 
Murray  brought  out  in  the  popular  volume  of  "  Wild  Sports  and 
Natural  History  in  the  Highlands." 

St  John's  life  was,  I  believe,  much  happier  from  the  occupation 
thus  supplied.  He  kept  journals  more  regularly  from  thence- 
forward, and  he  became  an  authority  to  be  consulted  on  all  ques- 
tions of  Scotch  sport.  He  had  already  become,  I  may  say,  the 
friend  of  all  his  neighbours,  and  many  regretted  his  change  of 
abode,  which  took  place  two  years  later. 

St  John  formed  acquaintance  and  commenced  a  life  friendship 
with  another  person  while  at  Invererne,  whose  tastes  and  habits 
much  resembled  his  own — a  good  naturalist  and  accurate  observer, 
a  lover  of  sport  on  hill  and  river  and  loch,  and,  curiously,  a  keeper 
of  a  journal  with  much  more  regularity  and  accuracy  than  his 
friend  ever  arrived  at.  This  was  Captain  Gumming,  now  Sir  Alex. 
Gordon  Gumming  of  Altyre,  with  whom  St  John,  during  the  later 
years  of  his  life,  when  they  were  brought  nearer  together  in  resi- 
dence, associated,  partook  of  sport,  corresponded,  more  constantly 
and  confidentially,  perhaps,  than  with  any  other. 

Unfortunately,  St  John  was  not  in  the  habit  of  preserving  his 
correspondents'  letters,  and  I  am  thus  able  to  give  only  one  letter 
from  Captain  Gumming,  which  may  have  been  in  his  friend's  mind 
when  he  contrasts  the  salmon-fisher  of  the  Findhorn  with  the 
gentle  angler  of  the  lower  pools  at  p.  222,  "  Sport  in  Moray." 

Sir  Alexander's  letter  contains  a  wonderfully  intelligible 
account  of  a  morning's  fishing.  The  scene  is  on  the  river 
Findhorn,  above  the  junction  of  the  Divie.  Rannoch  is  the 
name  of  a  spot  where  there  is  a  "  brig  of  ae  hair,"  a  single 
log  thrown  across  the  torrent. 

From  Captain  A.  P.  G.  GUMMING  to  Mr  ST  JOHN,  June  20,  1848. 

MY  DEAR  ST  JOHN, — Do  you  remember  saying  a  salmon  was  as  good 
as  lost  if  he  went  over  the  Ess  on  the  Findhorn  at  Relugas  1  A  strong 
and  active  fish  played  me  a  trick  last  week,  and  contradicted  your  idea, 
by  taking  me  down  from  Rannoch  over  the  Fall  as  far  as  the  Pool  above 


20  MEMOIR. 

the  Divie  junction.  The  night  had  been  stormy,  with  heavy  rain,  and 
although  I  expected  "she"  would  "grow"  in  the  course  of  the  day,  I 
thought  that  by  an  early  start  I  might  get  a  few  hours'  fishing  before 
the  water  came  down,  especially  as  fish  very  often  take  greedily  just  before 
a  grow.  I  was  at  the  river  by  4  A.M.,  and  commenced  at  Rannoch 
(Randolph's  Leap).  I  found  the  water  much  as  I  left  "  her  "  the  night 
before,  small  and  clear,  the  only  chance  of  fish  being  just  in  the  white 
broken  water  at  the  throats  of  streams,  or  in  the  deep  holes  amongst  the 
rocks.  Rannoch  is  fishable  only  from  one  small  ledge  or  bench,  about 
two  feet  square,  and  25  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water,  to  which  bench 
you  must  scramble  down  the  face  of  the  rock,  and  from  this  spot  you 
fish  the  whole  pool,  beginning  with  the  line  as  the  fly  comes  off  the  bar 
of  the  reel,  and  letting  out  yard  by  yard  till  the  fly  is  working  in  the 
"  spoots  "  or  narrow  rapids,  80  to  90  feet  down  the  stream.  If  you 
hook  him  you  must  play  and  kill  him  in  the  pool,  if  possible,  your  gillie 
clipping  him  on  a  small  bed  of  gravel  down  below  your  feet,  it  being 
impossible  to  follow  him  if  he  takes  down  the  water,  from  the  small  two- 
feet-square  ledge,  without  first  ascending  to  the  footpath,  and  redescend- 
ing  to  the  bed  of  the  river;  this  you  cannot  manage  with  a  fish  on, 
owing  to  trees  and  projecting  rocks.  The  pool  is  fished  from  the  right 
bank. 

Well,  I  rose  him  at  my  feet  almost  at  the  first  throw,  to  a  small  fly 
about  half  an  inch  long  ;  *  he  came  deep  and  shy  three  times,  and  re- 
fused to  take  it  or  any  other.  I  guessed  him  at  about  1 7  Ibs.  Leaving  him 
to  his  own  reflections,  after  making  an  appointment  with  him  for  a  later 
hour,  I  tried  the  pools  above,  hurrying  along  to  the  best  spots  in  antici- 
pation of  the  water  rising.  I  worked  till  eight  o'clock,  keeping  on  the 
same  fly  described  before.  I  had  more  than  average  sport,  killing  four 
good  new-run  fish,  viz.,  one  of  12  Ibs.,  one  10  Ibs.,  and  two  of  9  Ibs.  At 
eight,  the  water  beginning  to  grow,  I  reeled  up,  and  rushed  down  to 
Rannoch  to  show  my  early  friend  another  fly  ;  but  "the  water  having 
fairly  commenced  to  grow,  I  put  on  a  fly  above  two  inches  long,f  and 
the  tippet  being  triple  gut,  I,  by  an  interposition  of  Providence,  put  on 
a  triple  casting  line.  Having  cautiously  descended  to  my  stand,  I  showed 

*  Black  floss  silk  body  with  golden  orange  tag,  gold  cord  and  silver  speel, 
claret  hackle  with  jay  at  shoulder  ;  wing  mixture  of  good  mottled  fibres  and  a  gold 
crest,  head  yellow  wool  and  tail  of  crest  and  fibres. 

t  Body  yellow  pig's  wool,  rough  Spey  hackle,  and  bright  full  wing. 


MEMOIR.  21 

it  to  him  at  once ;  he  made  small  bones  of  it  this  time,  and  rushing  up 
like  a  bull-dog,  or  like  one  of  your  lovely  peregrines,  took  the  fly  greedily. 
I  just  let  him  feel  I  was  at  the  other  end  of  the  gear,  and  knew  in- 
stinctively that  the  good  steel  was  well  into  something  firm.  At  first 
he  seemed  not  quite  to  realise  the  situation,  and  after  a  few  sulky  and 
dangerous  shakes  of  the  head  took  to  sailing  steadily  up  and  down  the 
pool,  once  or  twice  approaching  the  rapids  below,  but  turning  again  by 
gentle  persuasion ;  these  tactics  he  continued  for  nearly  an  hour,  my 
man  waiting  for  him  on  the  gravel  below,  and  out  of  my  sight.  By 
this  time  the  effects  of  the  last  night's  rain  became  fully  apparent,  the 
still,  dark  pool  below  my  feet  had  turned  into  a  seething  pot,  without 
a  quiet  corner  for  the  fish  to  rest  in,  and  the  water  had  risen  nearly 
twenty-four  inches  above  its  size  when  I  hooked  him.  The  upshot  was, 
he  shot  down  the  narrows,  and  went  rolling  heels  over  head  down  the 
foaming  "  Meux  and  Co.'s  Entire  "  (this  being  the  usual  colour  of  our 
summer  floods).  To  stop  him  was  impossible ;  1  held  011  above  the  rapid 
till  I  thought  my  good  Forrest  rod  would  have  gone  at  the  hand,  and 
certainly  the  fine  single  gut  I  had  on  earlier  would  have  parted  with 
half  the  strain.* 

All  I  could  do  was  to  give  him  what  line  he  required  until  he  found 
a  resting-place  behind  some  rock ;  this  he  did  after  rattling  off  fifty 
yards  of  line.  Waiting  some  minutes  till  he  seemed  quiet,  I  threw  off 
some  ten  yards  more  line,  and  turning  the  top  of  the  rod  up  stream,  I 
darted  it  down  to  my  man  011  the  gravel  below,  having  cautioned  him 
not  to  alarm  the  fish  by  letting  the  line  get  taut.  To  scramble  up  the 
rocks  and  down  again  to  the  gravel  bed,  to  resume  possession  of  my 
rod,  was  two  or  three  minutes'  work,  and  just  as  I  seized  hold  of  it, 
the  fish,  having  ventured  from  his  shelter,  was,  in  spite  of  his  efforts, 
hurried  down  at  racing  pace,  taking  more  line  than  I  liked,  while  I 
followed,  crawling  and  leaping  along  some  impossible-looking  country, 
such  as  I  would  not  have  faced  in  cold  blood. 

By  this  time  he  had  nearly  reached  the  Ess  or  fall,  and  all  seemed 

*  Memo,  en  parent/Una. — I  once  asked  several  old  sportsmen  what  weight  was 
on  the  line  at  the  very  heaviest  strain  you  could  put  on  with  rod  in  hand,  as  when 
holding  on  like  grim  death  to  an  insubordinate  fish,  the  end  of  the  line  being 
attached  to  the  hook  of  a  spring  balance — i.e.,  what  weight  the  balance  would 
register.  One  man  guessed  35  Ibs.,  another,  laughing  at  him,  said  he  would  bet 
20  Ibs.  to  be  nearer  the  mark ;  none  guessed  less  than  15  Ibs.  !  The  fact  is,  you 
cannot,  with  the  best  and  strongest  tackle,  draw  out  more  than  3  or  4  Ibs. 


22  MEMOIR. 

lost.  I  do  not  think  lie  really  intended  going  over ;  for  when  he  felt  him- 
self within  the  influence  of  the  strong  smooth  water,  he  tried  his  best  to 
return,  but  in  vain.  Over  he  went  like  a  shot,  and  long  ere  I  could  get 
round  some  high  rocks  and  down  to  the  lower  part  of  the  fall,  I  had  80 
or  90  yards  of  line  out,  and  to  follow  him  farther  on  this  side  of  the 
water  was  not  possible,  owing  to  the  steep  rock  rising  beside  the  stream. 
To  add  to  the  embarrassment  of  my  position,  I  found,  on  raising  the  point 
of  my  rod,  that  in  going  over  the  fall  the  fish  had  passed  beneath  some 
arch  deep  under  water,  thus  making  my  case  appear  very  hopeless.  But, 
determined  not  to  give  it  up  yet,  I  sent  my  man  up  to  the  house  of 
Relugas,  where  he  found  an  old  three-pronged  dung  fork  and  a  garden 
line,  with  which  we  managed  to  construct  a  grapnel ;  and  at  the  second 
throw  in,  I  got  hold  of  the  line  below  the  sunken  arch ;  then  fastening 
it  to  my  right  hand,  I  made  my  man  throw  the  whole  line  off  the  reel 
and  through  the  rings,  and  having  drawn  the  remainder  of  the  line 
through  the  sunken  arch,  and  clear  of  the  impediment,  I  formed  a  coil, 
and  with  my  left  hand  pitched  the  end  of  it  up  to  him,  when  he  passed 
it  through  the  rings  again  from  the  top  of  the  rod,  tixed  it  to  the  axle 
of  the  reel,  and  handed  me  down  the  rod  to  where  I  stood.  From  the 
long  line  out  and  the  heavy  water,  I  could  not  tell  whether  the  fish  was 
on  or  not,  but  the  line  looked  greatly  chafed  all  along. 

I  now  tried  the  only  plan  to  end  the  business.  Leaving  my  man 
holding  the  rod,  I  went  to  a  bridge  some  distance  up  the  river,  and 
having  crossed  to  the  other  side  and  come  down  opposite  him,  he  pitched 
the  rod  over  to  me.  I  felt  that,  if  he  was  still  on,  I  was  sure  of  him,  and 
reeling  steadily  up  the  80  yards  which  were  out,  I  followed  down  to  the 
big  round  pool  below,  where,  to  my  surprise,  I  became  aware  that  he 
was  still  on.  He  made  but  a  feeble  resistance,  and  after  a  tight  of  two 
hours  and  forty  minutes,  we  got  the  clip  into  as  gallant  a  fish  as  ever 
left  the  sea — weight,  19 J  Ibs.,  and  new  run.  The  last  hour  and  a  half 
was  in  a  roaring  white  flood.  The  fly  was,  as  you  may  imagine,  well 
"  chawed  up." 

The  neighbourhood  of  Invererne  to  the  basin  of  the  Findhorn 
— the  resort  of  innumerable  wildfowl;  the  sandhills  of  Culbin 
so  curious,  almost  so  marvellous ;  the  "  Black  Forest,"  stretching 
away  behind  Brodie  and  Dalvey ;  the  "  Old  Bar,"  where  the  seals 
love  to  sun  themselves  on  the  sand ;  the  mouth  of  the  Muckle- 
burn,  the  favourite  haunt  of  the  otter — made  it  a  most  desirable 


MEMOIR.  23 

residence  for  a  naturalist  and  sportsman  like  St  John.  It  was 
there  he  filled  the  bag  of  various  game  for  me  which  he  describes 
in  "Wild  Sports"  (p.  27*7),  and  which  he  announced  to  me 
almost  in  the  same  terms  in  a  letter  I  have  still  preserved.  It 
was  from  Invererne  at  a  later  time  he  wrote  to  me — "  I  can 
soon  make  out  a  chapter  for  every  month  of  the  year,  in  the 
shape  of  letter  or  journal,  so  as  to  form  a  volume,"  an  intention 
which  he  partially  carried  out  under  the  title  of  "  Field  Notes  of 
a  Naturalist,"  and  the  materials  for  which,  on  a  more  complete 
scale,  are  comprised  in  "  Sport  in  Moray." 

It  was  at  Invererne  that  he  first  took  into  his  service  old 
Eennie  as  a  keeper,  who  figures  in  his  books  arid  notes  as 
"  Donald."  Some  of  the  qualities  he  ascribes  to  Donald  are 
imaginary,  or  belonged  to  some  predecessor  of  Rennie,  perhaps  a 
Sutherland  Highlander.  But  the  old  man  has  some  of  "  Donald's" 
characteristics  strongly  developed.  To  shoot  flying  was  not  much 
in  his  way  ;  his  master  could  do  that  pretty  well  for  himself. 
He  was  no  dog-breaker  either.  I  fear  he  preferred  a  dog  who 
could  help  to  kill  as  well  as  find  game.  But  he  had  some 
countervailing  merits  in  his  master's  eyes.  He  was  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  habits  of  wildfowl,  and  could  take  you  up  to 
swans  or  wild-geese  when  the  ground  seemed  impossible.  The 
otters  were  his  own  children  ;  he  could  tell  you  their  outgoings 
and  incomings  as  if  by  intuition.  Then  he  was  patient  of  cold 
and  wet,  and  fatigue,  and  long  watching,  and  was  a  most  useful 
slave,  if  not  a  director  of  sport.  He  has  fallen  into  evil  days 
since  his  master's  death.  He  has  only  occasional  employment, 
and  is  apt  sometimes  to  forget  a  march  in  pursuit  of  some 
favourite  chase.  1  am  sure  the  gentlemen  of  Moray  will  not  be 
too  severe  on  the  peccadilloes  of  St  John's  old  "  Donald." 

I  think  it  was  at  Whitsunday  1847  that  St  John  moved 
his  household  to  a  little  villa  beside  Nairn,  where  he  had  the 
advantage  again  of  friendly  neighbours  on  both  sides.  It  was  from 
that  abode  that  he  became  so  well  acquainted  with  the  mosses 
and  lochs  about  Lochlee,^  where  Harry  shot  his  first  wild  goose. 

*  [Loch  Loy  on  the  maps. — ED.] 


24  MEMOI& 

In  1848  and  1849  he  spent  some  time  in  Edinburgh, 
making  excursions  from  thence  to  Newcastle  on  the  one  hand, 
and  into  Sutherland  on  the  other.  From  his  early  residence  at 
Kosehall,  Sutherland  had  always  interest  with  St  John.  But 
no  one  could  live  an  open-air  life  on  the  coast  of  Moray  without 
being  attracted  powerfully  to  the  most  picturesque  outline  of  the 
Sutherland  shore.  The  country  was  then  little  known.  Its 
mountains,  seen  across  the  great  firth,  are  most  peculiar  and 
picturesque  in  outline,  suggesting  ideas  of  great  insulated  moun- 
tains and  precipices,  of  different  structure  from  the  continuous 
ranges  of  our  midland  highlands.  There  were  rumours,  too,  of 
eagles,  land  and  water  eagles,  now  exterminated  elsewher-e,  still 
holding  their  ancient  reign  there,  and  it  was  known  that  the  line 
of  limitation  of  the  breeding  of  several  birds  of  passage  ran 
through  the  northern  peninsula,  which  gave  it  much  additional 
interest  with  a  naturalist  who  studied  and  desired  to  collect 
eggs  as  well  as  birds. ,  All  these  things  were  inducements  with 
St  John,  and  led  to  his  recording  his  wanderings  across  the 
Moray  Firth,  in  two  pretty  volumes,  which,  for  some  reasons  not 
worth  pointing  out,  have  not  been  so  popular  as  his  earlier  work. 
One  chapter  of  that  book — a  vivid  description  of  hill  sport  in 
winter — forms  the  last  chapter  of  "  Sport  in  Moray  ; "  another, 
without  date,  but  which  seems  to  embody  his  recollection  of  life 
at  Kosehall,  I  have  been  induced  to  add  as  an  appendix  to  this 
Memoir.  In  the  autumn  of  1849  he  established  his  family  at 
"  The  College  "  beside  Elgin — a  most  convenient  and  pleasant 
residence  for  a  sportsman  with  a  family  to  educate.  The  house 
was  large  enough,  and  there  was  a  big  wild  garden  with  some 
great  old  trees  and  surrounded  by  an  old  ivy-grown  wall,  which 
served  as  a  secure  retreat  for  the  pets  of  himself  and  his  boys. 
There  is  a  pleasant  society  in  and  round  the  old  cathedral  city, 
embracing  some  men  of  science  and  students  of  nature,  with 
whom  St  John  soon  became  a  favourite.  The  children  had  the 
advantage  of  good  schools ;  and  for  sport  and  the  study  of 
the  habits  of  animals,  was  there  not  the  Loch  of  Spynie  and  the 
rocks  of  Covesea,  where  the  peregrine  breeds  ?  St  John's 


MEMOIR.  25 

enjoyment  of  his  Elgin  residence  was  much  increased  by  his 
friend  and  companion  in  sport,  Captain  Gordon  Gumming,  or 
later,  Major  Gordon  Gumming,  having  a  house  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. 

His  life  at  Elgin  was  indeed,  I  believe,  very  happy.  His 
letters  were  full  of  active  pursuits,  with  now  a  fair  mixture  of 
literary  work.  All  his  talents  were  turned  to  account.  No  walk 
or  drive  but  furnished  a  note  on  his  favourite  study.  He  no  longer 
complained  that  he  was  an  idle  man. 

I  sometimes  visited  him  at  "  The  College,"  and  used  to  admire, 
perhaps  a  little  to  envy,  his  manner  of  living  among  his  children. 
The  boys  were  the  constant  companions  of  his  sport  when  school 
permitted,  and  sometimes  the  schoolmaster  was  forgotten  when  the 
car  came  to  the  door  to  take  papa  and  Eennie  to  the  Loch.  Then, 
on  return,  there  were  the  contents  of  the  game-bag  to  examine 
— rare  specimens  to  note,  and  sometimes  to  preserve  and  stuff  after 
Mr  Hancock's  directions,  who  was  a  great  friend  and  ally  of  old 
and  young.  In  the  evening  the  drawing-room  table  was  a  pretty 
sight.  Some  rare  bird,  or  if  no  rarity  offered,  a  good,  handsome, 
old  blackcock  was  displayed  en  pose  for  the  artists,  and  father  and 
children  made  studies  in  water-colours  of  a  head,  a  claw,  or  a  tail 
of  the  fine  bird.  Without  pretending  to  much  skill  in  art,  St 
John  drew  easily  and  coloured  dexterously  what  was  placed 
before  him,  and  he  made  all  his  children  able  to  do  the  same. 
I  remember  with  what  pride  he  showed  me  the  journals  sent 
him  by  Harry  on  his  first  voyage  in  Admiral  Seymour's  ship, 
where  the  young  middy  described  the  places  he  visited  as 
well  as  he  could,  and  supplied  defects  by  views  drawn  on  the 
margin. 

St  John  spent  some  happy  years  at  Elgin,  and  his  friends 
looked  forward  to  many  days  of  life  and  enjoyment  for  one  so 
vigorous  and  active,  and  of  most  temperate  and  healthy  habits  ;  but 
this  was  not  to  be.  He  had  been  for  a  long  time  subject  to  violent 
attacks  of  nervous  headache,  quite  disabling  him  for  any  exertion  ; 
but  these  were  of  short  duration,  and  we  little  thought  that  they 
might  be  symptomatic  of  some  cerebral  affection,  as  it  seems  they 


26  MEMOIR. 

were.  He  had  one  of  the  worst  of  those  overpowering  headaches 
in  the  beginning  of  December  1853,  but  in  a  few  days  he  had 
apparently  thrown  off'  the  disease,  and  on  Tuesday,  6th  December, 
was  on  his  way  out  to  shoot  when  he  was  struck  down  by  paralysis 
of  the  whole  left  side.  He  was  carried  home  quite  powerless, 
assisted  by  Major  W.  Pitcairn  Campbell,  23rd  Fusiliers,  but  retain- 
ing his  senses  entire.  In  the  midst  of  overwhelming  grief  for 
such  a  calamity,  Mrs  St  John  and  the  whole  family  did  what  their 
strength  allowed  to  alleviate  his  sufferings,  but  it  required  a  man's 
strength  to  move  the  helpless  sufferer,  constantly  requiring  change 
of  posture ;  and  he  owed  much  of  what  rendered  life  supportable, 
for  some  weeks,  to  the  untiring  and  tender  care  of  his  friend 
Major  Gordon  Gumming. 

He  never  recovered  the  use  of  his  limbs,  but  his  health  was  so 
far  restored  as  to  allow  of  his  trying  a  change  of  air  and  scene. 
He  moved  to  Brighton,  and  afterwards  to  Southampton,  without 
deriving  much  benefit  from  medical  treatment  or  change  of  climate. 
His  heart  still  clung  to  the  scene  of  his  youthful  sport,  and  to 
the  last  he  indulged  the  hope  of  returning  "  to  some  place  between 
Spey  and  Ness,"  but  in  vain.  He  died  at  Woolston,  near  South- 
ampton, on  the  12th  July  1856. 

He  was  buried  in  the  Southampton  cemetery.  At  his  feet, 
within  his  coffin,  was  placed,  by  his  own  desire,  the  skull  of  "  Leo," 
a  favourite  retriever,  "  Grip's  "  successor. 

Of  the  many  amiable  qualities  which  endeared  him  to  his 
family  and  his  personal  friends  I  must  not  speak.  I  may  be 
allowed  to  point  out  for  imitation  the  extreme  care  and  accuracy 
of  his  observations  of  nature — a  rare  merit — and  his  guarded  and 
simple  statements  of  the  results.  His  taste  for  rural  pleasures, 
his  love  of  sport,  and  his  natural  unaffected  style,  will  long  endear 
his  memory  to  naturalists. 

C.   INNES. 


SOUTH  COLLEOK,  ELGIN. 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 

IN  my  sporting  excursions  I  frequently  prefer  being  alone  and 
independent  of  either  friend  or  keeper ;  not  from  any  disinclina- 
tion to  the  society  of  my  fellow-men — far  from  it — but  from  a 
liking  to  watch  and  observe  the  habits  and  proceedings  of  many  of 
the  living  animals  of  the  country.  Now,  one's  friend  may  become 
bored  by  being  carried  off  from  his  shooting,  and  being  hampered 
by  the  movements  of  another  person  whose  attention  for  the  time 
being  is  taken  up  in  following  some  bird  or  beast  not  included  in 
the  game-book,  and  therefore  not  deemed  worthy  of  notice  during 
the  shooting  season.  If  my  own  larder  or  that  of  my  friend  is  in 
want  of  replenishing,  I  can  fill  it  as  well  and  quickly  as  most 
people ;  but  at  other  times  I  like  to  take  my  shooting  quietly. 
In  deer-stalking  the  solitary  sportsman  has  often  great  advantages, 
though  his  enjoyment  of  the  sport  is  much  enhanced  by  the 
thought  that  he  has  some  friend,  some  "  fidus  Achates,"  to  whom 
he  can  relate  the  incidents  of  the  day,  and  who,  following  the  same 
pursuits,  will  enjoy  and  appreciate  the  account  of  the  pains  and 
fatigues  he  has  undergone  before  bringing  down  the  noble  animal 
whose  horns  he  exhibits  in  triumph.  Much  of  my  deer-stalking 
time  was  spent  alone,  or  at  most  with  no  companionship  save  that 
of  an  ancient  and  experienced  Highlander,  or  a  chance  visitor — 
some  travelling  laird  or  sportsman — who  was  as  glad  to  receive  as 


30 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 


I  was  to  give  pro  vend  and  rest  for  himself  and  horses.  From 
these  circumstances  I  got  into  the  habit  of  sketching  off  an  account 
Of  my  day's  wanderings,  when  they  had  been  of  that  kind  that  I 
felt  I  might  say  to  myself,  "  Forsan  et  haec  olim  meminisse  juvabit." 
.  I  had  more  than  once  seen  in  a  particular  corrie,  or  not  far  from 
it,  a  remarkably  fine  stag :  his  horns,  though  not  peculiarly  long, 
were  heavy  and  large,  with  ten  points  well  and  evenly  set  on,  of  a 
dark  colour,  and  the  points  as  white  as  ivory.  The  animal  himself 
was  evidently  of  very  great  size  and  age,  and  in  fine  condition. 


He  lived  quite  alone,  and  did  not  seem  to  associate  with  any  of 
the  other  deer  who  frequented  that  district,  although  I  once  saw 
him  rise  and  trot  off,  warned  by  the  movement  of  a  herd  of  hinds  ; 
and  at  another  time  he  rose  unexpectedly  on  my  firing  at  two 
stags  in  a  corrie  ;  still,  on  neither  of  these  occasions,  nor  at  any  other 
time,  did  he  appear  to  be  lying  in  company  with  the  other  deer, 
although  not  above  half  a  mile  from  them,  nor  did  he  join  them 
in  their  flight  when  moved.  Instead  of  this  he  invariably  trotted 
off  sulkily  ;  and  if  I  chanced  to  fall  in  with  his  track  again,  it  was 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL.  31 

still  solitary,  and  speeding  in  a  direct  course  over  bog  and  hill 
to  some  far-off  mountain  glen  or  corrie.  The  shepherds,  who 
generally  gave  me  notice  of  any  particularly  fine  stag  they  might 
see  in  their  rounds,  distinguished  this  one  by  a  Gaelic  name  signi- 
fying the  big  red  stag,  as,  besides  his  other  attributes,  his  colour 
was  of  a  peculiarly  bright  red.  Donald  and  I  had  made  an 
unsuccessful  raid  or  two  into  "  the  red  stag's "  country,  some 
unforeseen  circumstance  always  warning  him  of  our  neighbour- 
hood too  soon ;  besides  which  he  had  a  troublesome  habit  of 
suddenly  rising  in  the  most  unaccountable  manner  from  some 
unexpected  corner  or  hollow.  We  might  examine  long  and  care- 
fully the  whole  face  of  a  hill,  and  having  made  ourselves  perfectly 
sure  that  nothing  larger  than  a  mountain  hare  could  be  concealed 
on  its  surface,  up  would  rise  "  the  red  stag  "  from  some  trifling 
hollow,  or  from  behind  some  small  hillock,  and  without  looking 
to  the  right  or  left,  off  he  would  go  at  his  usual  trot,  till  we  lost 
him  in  the  distance. 

Another  time,  after  we  had  beat,  as  we  imagined,  a  whole 
wood,  so  that  we  were  convinced  that  neither  deer  nor  roe  could 
have  been  passed  over,  up  would  get  the  stag  out  of  some  clump 
of  larch  or  birch,  apparently  scarcely  big  enough  to  hold  a  hare, 
or  else  he  would  rise  at  the  very  feet  of  one  of  the  beaters,  and 
though  not  above  a  hundred  yards  from  the  corner  where  I  was 
posted  he  always  managed  to  turn  back,  perhaps  almost  running 
over  some  man  who  had  no  gun  ;  but  he  invariably  escaped  being 
shot  at,  excepting  on  one  occasion,  when  I  placed  a  friend  who 
was  with  me  near  a  pass  by  which  the  stag  sometimes  left  a 
favourite  wood.  I  had  stationed  the  shooter  at  the  distance  of 
half  a  mile  from  the  wood,  as  the  deer  was  always  most  careful 
of  himself,  and  most  suspicious  of  danger,  when  he  first  left  the 
cover.  On  this  occasion,  according  to  my  friend's  account,  the 
great  beast  had  trotted  quickly  and  suddenly  passed  him  at  eighty 
yards  distance,  and  took  no  notice  of  the  barrels  discharged  at  his 
broadside,  though  fired  by  a  very  good  shot,  and  out  of  a  first-rate 
Manton  gun  that  carried  ball  like  a  ritie.  My  friend  could  not 
account  for  missing  him ;  but  missed  he  evidently  was. 


32 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 


I  determined  one  day  to  start  off  alone  in  pursuit  of  this  stag, 
and  to  pay  no  attention  to  any  other  deer  I  might  see  during  my 
excursion.  Donald's  orders  were  to  meet  me  at  a  well  known  rock, 
about  eight  miles  from  home,  the  next  day  at  two  o'clock ;  my 
intention  being,  in  the  event  of  my  not  returning  the  same  night, 
to  work  my  way  to  a  distant  shepherd's  house,  and  there  to  sleep. 
Donald  had  directions  as  to  the  line  by  which  he  was  to  come, 
that  he  might  not  disturb  one  or  two  favourite  corries;  and  he 
was  also  to  bring  a  setter  and  my  shooting  apparatus,  as  I  took 


with  me  only  a  single-barrel  rifle  and  a  few  bullets.  I  did  not 
take  "  Bran,"  as,  being  alone,  I  could  not  be  quite  sure  that  he 
would  not  be  in  my  way  when  getting  up  to  the  deer,  if  I  should 
find  him ;  but  1  took  a  dog  of  a  very  different  kind — a  powerful 
bull-dog,  who  was  well  accustomed  to  deer-stalking,  and  who  would 
lie  down  for  an  hour  together  if  commanded,  without  moving 
an  inch. 

On  leaving  the  house  at  daybreak,  or  at  least  before  the  sun 
had  risen,  I  struck  off  in  a  straight  line  through  the  woods,  till, 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL.  33 

having  got  through  the  whole  cover,  I  sat  myself  down  on  the 
top  of  what  was  called  the  Eagle's  Craig,  and  turned,  for  the 
first  time  that  morning,  to  the  east  to  look  at  the  sun,  which  was 
now  rising  in  its  utmost  glory  and  brightness — a  glorious  sight, 
and  one  that  loses  not  its'  interest  though  seen  each  returning  day, 
particularly  when  viewed  from  the  lonely  places  either  of  land  or 
sea.  Below  me  lay  a  great  extent  of  pine-wood,  concealing  the 
house  and  the  cultivated  land  around  it,  with  the  exception  of  a 
glimpse  caught  here  and  there  of  the  bright  green  meadow  which 
formed  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  river  itself  was  visible 
through  many  openings,  and  where  the  outline  of  the  trees  was 
lower  than  in  other  places.  Beyond  the  river  rose  a  black  moor- 
land, which,  growing  gradually  higher  and  higher,  terminated  in 
mountains  with  a  most  varied  and  fantastic  outline  of  peaks  and 
precipices,  the  stony  sides  of  which  were  lighted  up  by  the  rising 
sun,  and  exhibited  a  strong  contrast  to  the  deep  colour  of  the 
hills  below  them,  covered  with  dark  heather,  and  not  yet  reached 
by  the  sun's  rays. 

On  the  other  side  the  ground  was  of  quite  a  different 
character.  Immediately  on  leaving  the  wood  the  country  for 
some  distance  had  a  dreary,  cold  look,  being  covered  not  with 
heather,  but  with  a  kind  of  gray  grass,  called  there  deer's  grass, 
which  grows  only  in  cold  swampy  ground.  Here  and  there  this 
was  varied  by  ranges  of  gray  stone  and  rock,  and  dotted  with 
numerous  lochs.  In  the  distance  to  the  west  I  could  see  the 
upper  part  of  a  favourite  rocky  corrie,  the  sun  shining  brightly 
on  its  gray  rocks.  A  little  to  my  right  the  fir- woods  terminated, 
but  on  that  side,  between  me  and  the  river,  of  which  every  bend 
and  reach  was  there  in  full  view,  were  numerous  little  hillocks 
overgrown  with  birch  trees,  old  and  rugged.  Here  and  there, 
amongst  these  hillocks,  rose  a  great  round  gray  rock,  and  the 
whole  of  this  rough  ground  was  intersected  with  bright  green 
glades.  Some  three  miles  up  the  river  a  blue  line  of  smoke 
ascended  perpendicularly  in  the  still  morning,  the  chimney  it 
came  from  being  concealed  by  a  group  of  birch- trees. 

I  looked  carefully  with  my  glass  at  all  the  nooks  and  grassy 

c 


34  LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 

places  to  see  if  any  deer  were  feeding  about  them,  but  could  see 
nothing  but  two  or  three  old  roe.  A  moment  after  a  pair  of 
young  roe  walked  quietly  out  of  some  concealed  hollow,  and 
after  gazing  about  a  short  time  and  having  a  game  of  romps  on 
the  top  of  a  hillock,  were  joined  by  their  mother,  and  then  all 
three  came  into  the  woods  at  the  foot  of  the  craig  where  I  was 
sitting.  The  grouse  were  calling  to  each  other  in  all  directions, 
and  every  now  and  then  an  old  cock-bird  would  take  a  short  fly, 
crowing,  to  some  stone  or  hillock,  where  he  stood  and  sunned 
himself.  I  was  struck  just  then  by  the  curious  proceedings  of 
a  mountain-hare,  who  had  been  feeding  about  two  hundred  yards 
from  me.  She  suddenly  began  to  show  symptoms  of  uneasiness 
and  fear,  taking  short  runs  and  then  stopping,  and  turning  her 
ears  towards  the  hill-side  behind  her.  I  soon  saw  the  cause  of 
her  alarm  in  a  beautiful  marten  cat ;  the  latter,  however,  having 
probably  already  made  her  morning  meal,  took  little  notice  of  the 
hare,  but  came  with  quiet  leaps  straight  towards  me.  As  I  was 
well  concealed  amongst  the  gray  fragments  of  rock  which  covered 
the  top  of  the  craig,  and  which  were  exactly  the  same  colour  as 
the  clothes  I  was  dressed  in,  the  little  animal  did  not  see  me. 
When  about  thirty  yards  off  she  suddenly  stopped  and  looked  in 
my  direction,  having  evidently  become  aware,  through  some  of 
her  fine  senses,  of  the  vicinity  of  an  enemy.  She  offered  me  a 
fair  shot,  and,  well  aware  of  the  quantity  of  game  killed  by  these 
animals,  I  sent  a  rifle  ball  right  into  her  yellow  chest  as  she  sat 
upright  with  her  head  turned  towards  me. 

But  time  advanced,  so  I  delayed  no  longer,  and  started  off  in 
a  westerly  direction.  Many  a  weary  mile  did  I  tramp  that  day 
without  seeing  anything  but  grouse  and  an  occasional  hare. 
Nevertheless,  I  saw  many  fresh  tracks  of  red  deer ;  particularly 
crossing  one  mossy  piece  of  ground,  where  there  appeared  to  have 
been  at  least  twenty  or  thirty  deer,  and  amongst  them  one  or  two 
large  stags.  In  one  place  I  saw  a  solitary  track  of  a  noble  stag, 
but  it  was  two  or  three  days  old.  I  judged  that  the  herd  whose 
tracks  I  saw  had  a  good  chance  of  being  in  or  about  a  corrie,  of 
which  I  should  get  a  view  from  the  next  height ;  but  after  a 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL.  35 

long  and  tiresome  survey  of  the  ground  I  could  see  no  living 
creature,  excepting  a  heron,  who  was  standing  in  his  usual  dis- 
consolate attitude  on  a  stone  in  the  burn  that  ran  out  of  the 
corrie,  adding  by  his  very  presence  to  the  solitude  of  the  scene. 
"  I  don't  understand  where  these  deer  can  be,"  was  my  internal 
ejaculation,  "  but  here  they  are  not ;  so  come  on,  good  dog." 
Another  and  another  height  did  I  pass  over,  and  many  a  glen 
did  I  scan  inch  by  inch  till  my  eyes  ached  with  straining  through 
the  glass.  Nothing  could  I  see,  and  I  began  to  think  to  myself 
that  as  it  was  past  two  and  the  shepherd's  house  was  some  three 
hours'  walk  off,  I  had  better  turn  in  that  direction  ;  so  slanting 
my  course  a  little  to  the  north,  I  pulled  my  plaid  round  me  and 
walked  on.  In  deer-stalking,  as  much  as  in  the  everyday 
pursuits  of  life,  the  old  adage  holds  good — 

credula  vitam 
Spes  fovet ; 

and  this  said  hope  carries  the  weary  stalker  over  many  a  long 
mile.  I  came  in  half  an  hour  to  a  large  extent  of  heather- 
covered  ground,  interspersed  with  a  great  number  of  tumulus- 
shaped  hillocks.  I  was  looking  carelessly  over  these,  when  my 
eye  was  suddenly  attracted  by  a  red-coloured  spot  on  one  of  the 
mounds.  I  turned  the  glass  upon  it,  and  at  once  saw  that  it  was 
a  large  bright-coloured  stag  with  fine  antlers,  and  altogether  an 
animal  worth  some  trouble.  He  was  in  a  very  difficult  situation 
to  approach.  He  commanded  a  complete  view  of  the  face  of  the 
hill  opposite  to  him  and  over  the  summit  of  which  I  was 
looking,  and  I  was  astonished  he  had  not  observed  me,  not- 
withstanding all  my  care.  As  the  wind  blew,  I  could  not 
approach  him  from  the  opposite  direction,  even  if  I  had  time  to 
get  round  there  before  he  rose ;  and  I  knew  that  once  on  foot  to 
feed,  his  direction  would  be  so  uncertain  amongst  the  mounds 
that  my  chance  would  be  small. 

After  a  short  survey  I  started  off  at  my  best  pace  to  the 
right,  thinking  that  from  the  nature  of  the  ground  I  might 
succeed  in  getting  into  the  valley  unobserved  ;  and  once  there 


36  LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 

by  taking  advantage  of  some  hillock,  I  should  have  a  tolerable 
chance  of  approaching  him.  After  what  appeared  to  me  a  long 
tramp,  I  came  to  a  slight  rise  of  the  shoulder  of  the  hill.  Beyond 
this  was  a  hollow,  by  keeping  in  which  I  hoped  to  get  down 
unobserved.  It  was  already  past  three,  but  the  stag  had  not  yet 
moved ;  so,  keeping  the  tops  of  his  horns  in  view.  I  began  to 
crawl  over  the  intervening  height.  At  two  or  three  places 
which  I  tried,  I  saw  that  I  could  not  succeed.  At  last  I  came 
to  a  more  favourable  spot,  but  I  saw  that  it  still  would  not  do, 
however  well  the  dog  behaved,  and  a  capital  stalker  he  was, 
imitating  and  following  every  movement  of  mine,  crouching  when 
I  crouched,  and  crawling  when  I  crawled.  I  did  not  wish  to 
leave  him  quite  so  far  from  the  deer,  so  I  made  another  cast, 
and  this  time  found  a  place  over  which  we  both  wriggled 
ourselves  quite  unseen.  Thank  heaven  !  was  my  exclamation,  as 
I  found  myself  in  a  situation  where  I  could  stand  upright  again. 
Few  people  excepting  deer-stalkers  know  the  luxury  of  standing 
upright,  after  having  wormed  oneself  horizontally  along  the 
ground  for  some  time.  There  were  the  horns  with  their  white 
tips  still  motionless,  excepting  when  he  turned  back  his  head  to 
scratch  his  hide,  or  knock  off  a  fly.  I  now  walked  forward 
without  stooping  till  I  was  within  three  or  four  hundred  yards 
of  him,  when  I  was  suddenly  pulled  up  by  finding  that  there  was 
no  visible  manner  of  approaching  a  yard  nearer.  The  last 
sheltered  mound  was  come  to  ;  and  although  these  mounds  from 
a  distance  looked  scattered  closely,  when  I  got  amongst  them  I 
found  they  were  two  or  three  rifle-shots  apart  at  the  nearest. 
There  was  one  chance  still  :  a  rock  or  rather  stone  lay  about 
eighty  yards  from  the  stag,  and  it  seemed  that  I  might  make  use 
of  this  as  a  screen  so  as,  if  my  luck  was  great,  to  get  at  the 
animal.  I  took  off  my  plaid,  laid  it  on  the  ground,  and  ordered 
the  dog  to  lie  still  on  it ;  then  buttoning  my  jacket  tight,  and 
putting  a  piece  of  cork,  which  I  carried  for  the  purpose,  into  the 
muzzle  of  my  rifle  to  prevent  the  dirt  getting  into  it,  I  started  in 
the  most  snake-like  attitude  that  the  human  frame  would  admit 
of.  I  found  that  by  keeping  perfectly  flat,  and  not  even 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 


37 


looking  up  once,  I  could  still  get  on  unobserved.  Inch  by  inch 
I  crawled  ;  as  I  neared  the  stone  my  task  was  easier,  as  the 
ground  sank  a  little  and  the  heather  was  longer.  At  last  I 
reached  the  place,  and  saw  the  tips  of  his  horns  not  above  eighty 
yards  from  me.  I  had  no  fear  of  losing  him  now  ;  so,  taking 
out  the  cork  from  my  rifle,  I  stretched  my  limbs  one  by  one,  and 
prepared  to  rise  to  an  attitude  in  which  I  could  shoot ;  then, 
pushing  my  rifle  slowly  forward,  I  got  the  barrel  over  the  stone 
unperceived,  and  rose  very  gradually  on  one  knee.  The  stag 
seemed  to  be  intent  on  watching  the  face  of  the  opposite  hill, 
and,  though  I  was  partially  exposed,  did  not  see  me  ;  his  attitude 


was  very  favourable,  which  is  seldom  the  case  when  a  stag  is 
lying  down ;  so,  taking  a  deliberate  aim  at  his  shoulder,  I  was  on 
the  point  of  firing,  when  he  suddenly  saw  me,  and  jumping  up, 
made  off  as  hard  as  he  could.  He  went  in  a  slanting  direction, 
and  before  he  had  gone  twenty  yards  I  fired.  I  was  sure  that  I 
was  steady  on  him,  but  the  shot  only  seemed  to  hurry  his  pace ; 
on  he  went  like  an  arrow  out  of  a  bow,  having  showed  no 
symptom  of  being  hurt  beyond  dropping  his  head  for  a  single 
moment. 

I  remained  motionless  in  despair ;  a  more  magnificent  stag  I 
had  never  seen,  and  his  bright  red  colour  and  white-tipped  horns 
showed  me  that  he  was  the  very  animal  I  had  so  often  seen  and 


38  LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 

wished  to  get.  He  ran  on  without  slackening  his  pace  for  at  least 
a  hundred  yards,  then  suddenly  fell  with  a  crash  to  the  ground, 
his  horns  rattling  against  the  stones.  I  knew  he  was  perfectly 
dead,  so,  calling  the  dog,  ran  up  to  him.  The  stag  was  quite 
motionless,  and  lay  stretched  out  where  he  fell.  I  found  on  open- 
ing him  that  the  ball  had  passed  through  the  lower  part  of  his 
heart — a  wound  I  should  have  imagined  sufficient  to  have  deprived 
any  animal  of  life  and  motion  instantaneously.  But  I  have  shot 
several  deer  through  the  heart,  and  have  observed  that  when  hit 
low  they  frequently  ran  from  twenty  to  eighty  yards.  If,  however, 
the  ball  has  passed  through  the  upper  part  of  the  heart,  or  has 
cut  the  large  blood-vessels  immediately  above  it,  death  has  been 
instantaneous,  the  animal  dropping  without  a  struggle. 

Having  duly  admired  and  examined  the  poor  stag,  not  without 
the  usual  compunction  at  having  put  an  end  to  his  life,  I  set  to 
work,  bleeding  and  preparing  him  for  being  left  on  the  hill  till  the 
next  day,  secure  from  attacks  of  ravens  and  eagles ;  then,  having 
taken  my  landmarks  so  as  to  be  sure  of  finding  him  again,  I 
started  on  my  march  to  the  shepherd's  house,  looking  rather 
anxiously  round  at  the  increasing  length  of  my  shadow  and  the 
diminished  height  of  the  sun ;  as  I  had  to  pass  some  very  boggy 
ground  with  which  I  was  not  very  well  acquainted.  I  had  not 
gone  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  however,  when  I  saw  the  shepherd  him- 
self making  his  way  homewards.  I  gave  a  loud  whistle  to  catch 
his  attention,  and  having  joined  him,  I  took  him  back  to  show 
the  exact  place  where  the  stag  was  lying,  to  save  myself  the 
trouble  of  returning  the  next  day.  Malcolm  was  rather  an  ally 
of  mine,  and  his  delight  was  great  at  seeing  the  stag. 

"  'Deed  aye,  sir ;  it's  just  the  muckle  red  stag  hiinsel' ; 
mony  a  time  I've  seen  the  bonny  beast.  Save  us  !  how  red  his 
pile  is ! " 

"  Yes,  he  is  a  fine  beast,  Malcolm ;  and  you  must  bring  your 
gray  pony  for  him  to-morrow.  I  must  have  the  head  and  one 
haunch  down  to  the  house ;  take  the  rest  to  your  mother ;  I 
daresay  she  can  salt  it." 

I  knew  pretty  well  that  this  good  lady  must  have  had  some 


LIFE    AT    KOSEHALL.  39 

experience  in  making  red  deer  hams,  unless  Malcolm  was  very 
much  slandered  by  his  neighbours ;  nevertheless,  he  had  promised 
me  not  to  poach  on  my  ground,  and  knowing  that  I  trusted  quite 
to  his  honour,  I  believe  that  he  neither  did  so  himself  nor  allowed 
any  one  else  to  do  so. 

"  You  are  ower  good,  your  Honour ;  and  the  mither  will  be 
glad  of  a  bit  venison  ;  it's  a  long  time  now  since  I  killed  a  deer." 

"  When  was  the  last,  Malcolm  ? "  I  asked. 

"  Ou,  mony  a  day  sine,  sir ;  but,  to  tell  the  truth,  it  is  only 
yesterday  since  I  fired  at  one." 

"  And  where  was  that,  Malcolm  ? " 

"  Why,  if  your  Honour  wants  to  know,  and  I  am  sure  you  will 
do  no  ill  turn  to  a  lad  for  taking  a  shoot,  I'll  just  tell  you." 

I  could  not  help  smiling  at  Malcolm's  describing  himself  as  a 
lad.  He  stood  six  feet  three  inches  without  his  shoes,  and  a 
perfect  giant  in  every  proportion,  but  strong  and  active  withal, 
and  a  capital  stalker,  being  able  to  wind  his  great  body  about 
through  moss  and  heather  in  a  manner  that  was  quite  marvellous. 
Malcolm's  account,  then,  was,  that  a  shepherd  on  an  adjoining 
property,  or  rather  on  one  divided  from  where  we  were  by  a  long 
lake,  had  asked  him  to  come  up  some  evening  with  his  gun  to 
"  fleg  "  some  deer  that  had  been  destroying  his  little  crop  of  oats. 
Well,  Malcolm  had  gone  ;  and  the  evening  before  T  met  him  he 
had  fired  in  the  dusk  at  a  stag  with  a  handful  of  large  slugs ;  the 
deer  was  hit  and  crippled,  but  had  thrown  out  the  collie  dogs 
which  had  pursued  him  by  taking  to  the  water  and  apparently 
swimming  the  loch.  If  he  had  managed  to  cross  he  must  be  on 
my  side  of  it,  and  I  might  by  chance  fall  in  with  him  on  my 
return  home  the  next  day  in  some  of  the  burns  and  glens  through 
which  I  should  have  to  walk.  I  did  not  blame  Malcolm  much, 
knowing  the  mischief  done  by  deer  to  the  shepherd's  little  crops  ; 
besides  which  the  ground  where  he  had  shot  this  stag  was  not 
preserved  or  used  as  a  forest  by  the  owner. 

We  had  a  weary  walk,  though  enlivened  by  Malcolm's  con- 
versation. Without  his  company  and  guidance  I  should  have  had 
some  difficulty  in  finding  my  way  through  the  rough  ground  over 


40  LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 

which  we  had  to  pass.     The  night,  too,  had  come  on  quite  dark 
before  we  reached  the  shealing. 

On  entering  I  was  much  struck  by  the  group  which  we  saw  by 
the  light  of  several  splinters  of  a  bog-fir  laid  on  stone.  Malcolm's 
old  father,  a  man  whose  years  numbered  at  least  fourscore,  was 
reading  a  chapter  of  the  Bible  in  Gaelic  to  the  rest  of  his  family, 
which  consisted  of  his  wife,  a  woman  of  nearly  equal  age  to  him- 
self, but  hale,  neat,  and  vigorous,  and  of  a  sister  and  brother  of 
Malcolm's ;  the  former  a  peculiarly  pretty,  though  somewhat 
extensive  damsel;  and  the  latter  a  giant  like  Malcolm  himself, 
equally  good-looking,  and  equally  respected  in  his  own  rank  of  life. 
The  old  man,  having  looked  off  his  book  for  a  moment,  without 
pausing  in  his  reading,  continued  his  chapter.  Following  Malcolm's 
example,  I  took  off  rny  cap,  and  sat  down  on  a  chest  in  the  room, 
and  though,  of  course,  not  understanding  a  word  of  what  was  read, 
I  was  struck  by  the  appearance  of  real  devotion  and  reverence 
of  the  whole  group,  and  looked  on  with  feelings  of  interest  and 
respect  till  he  came  to  the  end  of  a  somewhat  lengthy  chapter. 
This  finished,  the  old  man,  resting  his  head  on  his  hands,  which  his 
long  grey  hair  entirely  covered,  uttered  a  short  prayer  in  the  same 
language.  The  moment  this  was  done  he  handed  the  Bible  to  his 
daughter,  who,  wiping  it  with  her  apron,  deposited  it  in  a  chest. 
I  was  then  welcomed  with  great  kindness,  and  preparations  were 
made  for  Malcolm's  and  my  supper,  which  consisted  of  tea,  oatcake, 
eggs,  and  a  part  of  a  kippered  trout,  caught  in  a  stream  running 
out  of  the  large  loch,  and  which  when  alive  must  have  weighed 
at  least  twelve  pounds  ;  such  cream  and  milk,  too,  as  are  met  with, 
or  at  any  rate  enjoyed,  only  in  the  Highlands.  With  real  polite- 
ness the  old  people  talked  to  me  but  little  during  the  meal,  seeing 
that  I  was  tired  and  hungry ;  but  over  the  glass  of  capital  toddy 
which  succeeded  the  tea  I  had  many  a  question  to  answer  respect- 
ing the  killing  of  the  stag,  etc.  The  old  lady  spoke  very  little 
English,  but  understood  it  well  enough.  The  old  shepherd  listened 
with  great  interest,  the  more  so  from  having  been  a  somewhat 
famous  stalker  in  his  own  time,  and  now  a  great  lamenter  of  the 
good  old  time  when  deer  and  black  cattle  were  more  plentiful, 


LIFE    AT    KOSEHALL.  41 

and  sheep  comparatively  few  to  what  they  are  in  the  present 
day. 

Before  the  earliest  grouse-cock  had  shaken  his  plumage  and 
called  his  mate  from  her  heather  couch,  I  had  left  my  sleep- 
ing-place in  the  building  that  did  duty  for  a  barn,  where  deep  in 
the  straw,  and  wrapped  in  my  plaid,  I  had  slept  sound  as  a  deer- 
stalker, and  I  fancy  no  person  sleeps  more  soundly.  I  had 
preferred  going  to  roost  in  the  clean  straw  to  passing  the  night 
within  the  house,  knowing  by  former  experience  that  Malcolm's 
shealing  was  tenanted  by  myriads  of  nocturnal  insects,  which,  like 
the  ancient  Britons,  "  feri  hospitibus,"  would  have  left  me  but 
little  quiet  during  the  night.  The  last  time  I  had  slept  there, 
all  the  fleas  in  the  shealing,  "  novitatis  avidi,"  had  issued  out  and 
fallen  on  the  body  of  the  unlucky  stranger.  Tempted  by  the 
clean  and  fresh  appearance  of  the  good  lady's  sheets,  I  had  trusted 
my  tired  limbs  to  their  snowy  whiteness,  when,  sallying  forth  from 
every  crevice  arid  every  corner,  the  legion  of  insects  had  hopped 
on  me  to  enjoy  the  treat  of  a  supper  of  English  blood.  The 
natives  of  these  places  seem  quite  callous  to  everything  of  the 
kind. 

To  continue,  however.  After  making  good  use  of  the  burn 
that  rippled  along  within  fifty  yards  of  the  house,  and  having 
eaten  a  most  alarming  quantity  of  the  composition  called  porridge, 
I  sallied  forth  alone.  Malcolm  and  his  brother  would  fain  have 
accompanied  me,  but  the  latter  had  to  attend  some  gathering  of 
sheep  in  a  different  direction,  and  Malcolm  was  obliged  to  go 
for  the  stag  killed  yesterday.  He  therefore  only  walked  a  few 
hundred  yards  up  the  first  hill  with  me,  in  order  to  impress  well 
on  my  recollection  the  different  glens  and  burns  he  wished  me  to 
look  at  on  my  way  to  the  place  of  rendezvous  with  old  Donald. 
The  sun  was  but  a  little  distance  above  the  horizon  when  I  gained 
the  summit  of  a  tolerably  long  and  steep  ascent  immediately 
behind  Malcolm's  house.  A  blackcock  or  two  rose  wild  from 
some  cairn  of  stones  or  hillock,  where  they  had  been  enjoying 
the  earliest  rays  of  the  sun,  and  flew  back  over  my  head  to  take 
shelter  in  the  scattered  birch  thickets  near  the  shealing ;  and 


42  LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 

here  and  there  a  pack  of  grouse  rose,  alighting  again  before  they 
had  flown  a  hundred  yards,  as  if  fully  understanding  that  grouse 
shooting  was  not  the  order  of  the  day,  and  strutting  along  with 
their  necks  stretched  up,  seemed  to  care  little  for  my  presence. 
The  ring-ousel  flitted  from  rock  to  rock,  uttering  its  wild  and 
sweet  note.  Truly  there  is  great  enjoyment  gained  by  the  early 
riser;  everything  in  nature  has  a  pleasant  aspect,  and  seems 
happy  and  thankful  to  see  the  light  of  another  sun. 

The  great  mountain  to  the  west  looked  magnificent  as  its  gray 
corries  and  cliffs  were  lighted  up  by  the  morning  rays.  A  noble 
pile  of  rock  and  heather  is  that  mountain,  and  well  named  Ben 
Mhor,  or  the  Big  Mountain — not  a  triton  amongst  minnows,  but 
a  tritori  amongst  tritons.  The  golden  eagle,  to  add  grandeur  to 
the  scene,  was  sweeping  through  the  sky  high  above  me,  and 
apparently  eyeing  my  canine  companion  with  mingled  curiosity 
and  appetite.  Once  or  twice  in  his  circles  he  came  so  near  that 
I  was  half  inclined  to  send  a  rifle-ball  at  him,  but  as  often  as  I 
stopped  my  walk  with  this  intention,  the  noble  bird  wheeled  off 
again,  and  at  last,  remembering  his  breakfast  hour  was  past,  flew 
off  in  a  straight  line  at  a  great  height  towards  the  loch  to  the 
north  of  us,  where  he  probably  recollected  having  seen  some 
dead  or  sickly  sheep  during  his  flight  homewards  the  evening 
before. 

I  had  several  hours  to  spare  before  the  time  of  meeting 
Donald,  so  I  diverged  here  and  there,  wherever  I  thought  it  likely 
I  should  find  deer,  and  then  kept  a  northerly  course  in  order  to 
look  at  some  burns  and  grassy  ground  near  the  loch,  according  to 
Malcolm's  advice.  The  loch  itself  was  bright  and  beautiful,  and 
the  small  islands  on  it  looked  like  emeralds  set  in  silver.  With 
my  glass  I  could  distinguish  eight  or  nine  wild  geese,  as  they 
ruffled  the  water  in  their  morning  gambols,  having  probably  just 
returned  from  grazing  on  the  short  green  grass  that  grew  on 
different  spots  near  the  water's  edge.  These  grassy  places  were  the 
sites  of  former  habitations,  and  were  still  marked  by  the  line  of 
crumbled  walls,  now  the  constant  resort  of  the  few  wild  geese  that 
breed  every  year  on  the  lonely  and  unvisited  islands  of  the  loch. 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL.  43 

Below  me  there  was  a  capital  Hat  for  deer,  a  long  sloping 
valley  with  a  winding  burn  tiowing  through  the  middle,  along  the 
banks  of  which  were  grassy  spots  where  they  constantly  fed.  I 
searched  this  long  and  carefully  with  my  glass,  but  saw  nothing 
excepting  a  few  small  companies  of  sheep  which  were  feeding  in 
different  flocks  about  the  valley.  So  famous,  however,  was  this 
place  as  the  resort  of  deer,  that  I  took  good  care  not  to  show 
myself,  and  crawled  carefully  into  a  hollow  run,  which,  leading  to 
the  edge  of  the  burn,  would  enable  me  to  walk  almost  unseen  for 
a  long  distance,  and  I  thought  that  there  might  still  be  deer 
feeding  in  some  bend  of  the  watercourse,  where  they  had  escaped 
iny  search.  Before  I  had  walked  many  hundred  yards  down  the 
course  of  the  burn,  I  saw  such  traces  as  convinced  me  they  had 
been  feeding  there  within  a  few  hours  ;  so,  arranging  my  plaid 
and  rifle  I  walked  stealthily  and  slowly  onwards,  expecting  to 
see  them  every  moment.  The  nature  of  the  ground  was  such 
that  I  might  come  on  them  quite  unperceived  ;  the  dog,  too, 
showed  symptoms  of  scenting  something,  putting  his  nose  to  the 
tracks  and  then  looking  wistfully  in  my  face,  watching  every 
movement  of  my  rifle.  The  inquiring  expression  of  his  face  was 
perfect ;  whenever  I  stopped  to  look  over  or  around  some  pro- 
jecting angle  of  rock,  he  kept  his  eyes  fixed  on  my  face,  as  if  to 
read  in  it  whether  my  search  was  successful  or  not.  A  deer- 
stalker in  the  situation  I  was  in  would  make  a  good  subject  for 
a  painter.  I  wound  my  way  silently  and  slowly  through  the 
broken  rock  and  stone  which  formed  the  bed  of  the  burn,  showing 
in  their  piled-up  confusion  that  the  water  must  at  some  times 
rage  and  rush  with  the  fury  and  power  of  an  Alpine  torrent, 
though  now  it  danced  merrily  along,  rippling  through  the  stones 
and  forming  tiny  pools  here  and  there  where  it  had  not  strength 
enough  to  break  through  the  accumulated  sand  and  gravel  which 
dammed  up  its  feeble  stream.  Dressed  in  gray,  and  surrounded 
with  gray  stone  on  every  side,  I  was  as  little  conspicuous  as  it 
was  possible  to  be,  and  there  was  just  enough  ripple  in  the  stream 
and  its  thousand  miniature  cascades  to  drown  the  sound  of  my 
footsteps,  whenever  I  inadvertently  put  my  foot  on  any  stone 


44  LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 

that  grated  or  slipped  below  me.  The  only  thing  that  annoyed 
me  was  an  occasional  sheep  that  would  see  me  from  the  bank 
above,  and  by  running  off  in  a  startled  manner  was  likely  to  warn 
the  deer,  if  there  were  any  ahead  of  me,  of  the  vicinity  of  an 
enemy.  I  had  continued  this  course  for  some  distance,  when 
just  as  I  began  to  turn  off  in  order  to  cross  the  valley  to  look 
over  the  next  height,  and  had  made  up  my  mind  that  the  deer 
whose  recent  traces  I  had  seen  must  have  slipped  away  unobserved 
—just  then,  on  turning  a  corner,  I  caught  a  momentary  glimpse 
of  the  hind-quarters  of  one  of  the  wished-for  animals  walking 
slowly  round  a  turn  in  the  burn.  I  stopped,  fearing-  they  had 
seen  or  heard  me,  and  I  expected  to  see  them  leap  out  of  the 
hollow  and  make  away  across  the  valley ;  but  not  seeing  this 
happen,  I  walked  carefully  on,  and  came  in  view  of  nine  deer, 
hinds  and  calves,  who  were  feeding  quietly  on  a  little  piece  of 
table-land  close  to  the  burn.  I  also  saw  the  long  ears  of 
another  appearing  beyond  and  above  the  rest,  evidently  being  on 
the  lookout.  They  seemed  to  have  no  suspicion  of  an  enemy, 
and  when  they  stopped  to  gaze  about  them  their  heads  were 
turned  more  towards  the  plain  around  than  to  the  course  of  the 
burn.  The  sentry,  too,  was  seemingly  occupied  with  looking  out 
in  every  direction  excepting  where  I  was.  They  were  not  more 
than  two  hundred  yards  off,  and  I  judged  that  by  advancing 
quickly  the  moment  that  they  turned  the  next  corner,  I  should 
be  able  to  get  unperceived  within  forty  or  fifty  yards.  The  single 
hind  had  disappeared  too,  having  gone  over  a  small  rise.  I  put 
on  a  new  copper  cap,  and  felt  sure  of  an  easy  shot ;  the  dog, 
though  he  did  not  see  the  deer,  perfectly  understood  what  was 
going  on,  and  seemed  afraid  to  breathe  lest  he  should  be  heard. 
Amongst  the  herd  were  two  fine  barren  hinds,  both  in  capital  con- 
dition. I  did  not  care  which  of  the  two  I  might  kill,  but  deter- 
mined to  have  one.  and  was  already  beginning  to  reckon  on 
Donald's  delight  at  my  luck  in  getting  a  fine  hind  as  well  as  the 
stag  I  had  killed  yesterday.  All  the  hinds  had  now  gone  out  of 
sight,  and  I  moved  on.  At  that  very  moment  the  sentry  hind,  a 
long-legged,  ragged,  donkey-like  beast,  came  back  to  the  mound 


LIFE    AT    ROSE  HALL.  45 

where  she  had  been  before,  and  her  sharp  eyes  instantly  detected 
me.  Never  did  unlucky  wight,  caught  in  the  very  act  of  doing 
what  he  least  wished  should  be  known,  feel,  or,  I  dare  say,  look 
so  taken  aback  as  I  was.  I  stood  motionless  for  a  moment,  hop- 
ing that  even  HER  eyesight  might  be  deceived  by  my  gray  dress, 
but  it  was  too  late  ;  giving  a ,  snort  of  alarm,  she  was  instantly 
out  of  sight.  I  ran  forwards,  trusting  to  be  in  time  for  a  running 
shot  at  some  straggler,  and  came  in  view  of  the  whole  troop  gallop- 
ing away,  a  tolerably  long  shot  off,  but  still  within  range,  and 
affording  a  fair  broadside  mark  as  they  went  along  in  single 
file  to  gain  the  more  level  ground.  I  of  course  pulled  up,  and 
took  a  deliberate  aim  at  one  of  the  fat  hinds.  She  afforded  me  a 
fair  enough  chance,  but  I  saw,  the  moment  I  pulled  the  trigger, 
that  I  had  missed  her.  The  ball  struck  and  splintered  a  rock, 
and  must  have  passed  within  a  very  few  inches  of  the  top  of  her 
shoulder.  I  saw  my  error,  which  was  that,  miscalculating  the 
distance,  I  had  fired  a  little  too  high.  However,  it  was  too  late 
to  remedy  it ;  so  I  stood  quietly  watching  with  a  kind  of  vague 
hope  that  my  ball  might  have  passed  through  her  shoulder,  though 
in  reality  I  was  sure  this  was  not  the  case.  They  never  stopped 
till  they  reached  the  very  summit  of  one  of  the  heights  that 
enclosed  the  valley,  and  then  they  all  halted  in  a  group  for  two 
or  three  minutes,  standing  in  clear  and  strong-relief  against  the 
sky.  After  looking  back  for  a  short  time  towards  the  point  of 
alarm,  they  disappeared  over  the  top  of  the  hill,  and  I  reloaded 
my  rifle,  and  then  went  to  examine  the  exact  spot  where  my  ball 
had  struck.  Judging  from  the  height  it  was  from  the  ground,  I 
saw  the  hind  had  had  a  very  narrow  escape,  and  muttered  to 
myself,  "  Not  a  bad  shot  after  all,  though  unlucky  ;  well,  I'm  glad 
it  was  not  a  fine  stag — never  mind  the  hinds."  It's  pleasant  to 
find  consolation — "rebus  in  adversis ;  "  my  dog  in  the  meantime 
scented  about  a  good  deal,  and  seemed  to  wonder  that  I  had 
missed. 

I  now  turned  off  out  of  my  stony  path,  and  walked  across  a 
long  tract  of  easy  ground.  There  were  several  likely  spots  in  my 
way,  but  no  deer  were  to  be  found ;  and  an  hour  before  my  time 


46  LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 

I  arrived  at  the  trysting-place,  which  was  a  peculiarly-shaped 
large  rock,  standing  in  the  midst  of  a  great  extent  of  ground 
covered  with  gray  stones,  arid  rocks  of  a  similar  description,  but  all 
much  smaller.  The  rock  itself  rejoiced  in  a  Gaelic  name  signi- 
fying the  "  Devil's  Stone."  It  was  a  curious  spot — a  wide  and 
gentle  slope  of  a  hill  perfectly  covered  with  these  gray  stones, 
looking  as  if  they  had  dropped  in  a  shower  from  the  clouds. 
They  ended  abruptly  near  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  formed  almost 
a  straight  line,  as  if  some  giant  workman  had  done  his  best  to 
clear  the  remainder  of  the  slope,  and  had  picked  all  the  stones 
off  that  part,  as  farmers  do  off'  a  grass  field.  Upwards  towards 
the  top  of  the  hill  they  increased,  if  possible,  in  number,  and  the 
summit  appeared  like  one  mass  of  rock.  Through  all  this  desola- 
tion of  stone  there  were  several  strips  of  heather,  or  withered- 
looking  grass,  not  much  wider,  however,  than  footpaths.  These 
served  as  passes  for  any  sheep  and  deer  which  might  fancy 
journeying  through  them. 

I  reached  my  point  of  rendezvous,  and  sat  down  to  wait 
patiently  for  Donald,  with  my  face  turned  in  the  direction 
whence  he  was  to  arrive.  I  knew  that,  unless  detained  by 
any  quite  unforeseen  accident,  he  would  arrive  rather  before 
than  after  his  time,  as  he  was  to  bring  me  something  in  the 
shape  of  luncheon ;  the  liquid  part  of  which  I  was  confident  he 
would  not  forget. 

I  waited  some  time  in  this  solitude,  without  hearing  or  seeing 
any  living  creature  to  enliven  the  dreary  landscape  before  me, 
with  the  exception  of  a  pair  of  ravens  who  passed  at  no  great 
height  above  me,  uttering  their  harsh  croaks  of  ill  omen  as  they 
winged  their  way  in  a  direct  course,  to  feast  on  the  remains  of 
some  dead  sheep  or  deer. 

My  attention  was  suddenly  roused,  however,  by  hearing  a 
couple  of  shots  in  quick  succession,  the  sound  coming  from  the 
direction  in  which  I  expected  Donald.  As  the  reports  did  not 
appear  to  be  at  any  great  distance,  I  rose  with  the  intention  of 
going  to  meet  him ;  though  I  could  not  understand  what  he  was 
shooting  at,  it  being  quite  against  both  his  and  my  ideas  of  pro- 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL.  47 

priety  that  he  should  hunt  the  very  ground  over  which  I  intended 
to  beat  homewards. 

On  second  thoughts,  I  fancied  that  he  had  fired  off'  his  gun 
to  warn  me  of  his  approach  ;  but,  just  as  I  was  passing  these 
things  over  in  my  head,  I  saw  a  stag  of  good  size  come  in  view 
from  the  direction  in  which  I  had  heard  the  shots.  Down  I 
dropped  instantly  behind  a  rock,  as  the  deer  was  coming  straight 
towards  me.  As  he  approached,  I  saw  that  the  poor  beast  was 
hard  hit.  One  of  his  forelegs  was  broken,  and  swinging  about  in 
a  miserable  manner,  and  he  had  also  one  of  his  horns  broken  off 
a  few  inches  above  his  head  ;  altogether  he  seemed  in  a  most 
pitiable  state.  Before  he  came  within  two  hundred  yards  of  me 
he  turned  off  and  I  watched  him  as  he  scrambled  along  on  three 
legs  painfully  and  slowly,  stopping  frequently  to  look  back,  or  to 
smell  at  the  blood  that  was  trickling  down  his  sides.  I  could 
plainly  see  that  he  was  also  struck  somewhere  about  the  middle 
of  his  body,  as  well  as  on  the  horn  and  leg,  and  was  now  bleeding 
fast. 

It  then  occurred  to  me  that  Donald  had  fallen  in  with  a  lame 
stag,  and  had  thought  it  best  to  do  what  he  could  towards  killing 
him  with  my  gun.  Bullets  he  always  took  with  him  by  my 
orders.  The  stag  continued  his  painful  march,  and  I  would  have 
given  much  to  have  been  within  reach  to  put  an  end  to  the  poor 
brute's  misery.  He  twice  lay  down  on  a  grassy  spot  amongst 
the  rocks,  having  first  looked  anxiously  and  fearfully  round  him ; 
but  seemingly  the  attitude  of  lying  was  more  painful  to  him  than 
moving  slowly  on.  I  remembered  then  a  theory  of  Donald's, 
that  a  deer  never  lies  down  when  shot  through  the  liver,  but 
continues  moving,  or  at  any  rate  standing,  till  he  dies.  How  far 
this  opinion  was  correct  I  never  had  a  good  opportunity  of 
proving.  The  deer  before  me,  having  found  that  lying  down 
gave  him  no  relief,  continued  moving,  but  still  slowly  and  with 
evident  difficulty.  Once  he  stopped  and  stood  in  a  pitiful 
attitude,  trembling  all  over,  and  moving  his  head  up  and  down 
as  if  oppressed  with  deadly  sickness.  After  this  lie  seemed  to 
recover  slightly,  and,  standing  erect,  gazed  with  care  and  anxiety 


48 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 


in  every  direction  ;  then,  as  if  determined  to  make  one  more  effort 
for  his  life,  set  off  in  a  broken  trot, 

He  had  been  winding  about  amongst  the  rocks  all  the  time 
I  had  been  watching  him,  seldom  more  than  two  hundred  yards 
from  me,  and  sometimes  so  near  that  I  was  half  tempted  to  try 
a  shot  at  him ;  but  I  was  always  in  hopes  of  getting  within  surer 
range,  and  did  not  fire.  He  now  trotted  off  about  three  hundred 
yards,  where  there  was  a  small  black  pool  of  water.  Into  this 
lie  went ;  it  did  not  at  first  reach  higher  than  his  knees.  Just 
then  Donald  appeared  in  view,  coming  slowly  and  cautiously  over 
the  hill,  and  leading  a  pointer  -in  a  string.  I  saw  that  the  dog 
was  tracking  the  deer.  It  was  a  large  powerful  dog,  of  great  size 
and  strength — one  of  the  finest,  if  not  quite  the  finest  built  dog  of 


the  kind  that  I  had  ever  possessed  or  seen.  Having  been  at  the 
death  of  one  or  two  deer,  he  had  taken  a  mighty  fancy  to  the 
scent  of  a  bleeding  stag,  and  tracked  true  and  keenly.  I  sat 
quiet  to  watch  him  and  the  old  Highlander,  as  they  came  slowly 
but  surely  on  the  track,  with  both  their  noses  to  the  ground ; 
Donald  hunting  low,  in  order  to  be  sure  that  the  dog  was  still 
right,  which  he  could  tell  pretty  well  by  the  occasional  spots  of 
blood  on  the  gray  stones,  though  the  ground  was  too  hard  most 
of  the  way  to  show  the  mark  of  the  foot.  Now  and  then  they 
seemed  quite  thrown  out  for  a  minute  or  so ;  this  I  saw  was 
generally  occasioned  by  Donald's  want  of  judgment.  The  dog, 
though  he  strained  on  the  string,  kept  the  track  wonderfully  well 
in  every  turn.  The  poor  object  of  their  chase,  when  he  first  saw 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL.  49 

his  enemies  appear,  gave  a  sudden  start,  and  seemed  inclined  to 
make  off;  but  on  second  thoughts  he  stopped  short  again,  and, 
lowering  his  head  and  neck,  crouched  in  the  water,  as  if  trusting 
to  the  surrounding  rocks  for  concealment ;  and  there  the  poor 
animal  remained,  with  stooping  horns,  perfectly  motionless,  but 
evidently  with  every  nerve  and  sense  on  the  alert,  listening  for 
the  nearer  approach  of  his  enemies.  For  my  own  part,  I  became 
quite  interested  in  watching  Donald  and  the  dog  ;  I  knew  that  the 
stag  was  safely  ours,  as  he  could  not  leave  the  pool  without  coming 
into  full  view,  and  having  to  depend  on  his  speed  for  safety,  which 
in  his  enfeebled  state  was  the  last  thing  he  would  like  to  do. 
Donald  looked  anxiously  round  him  sometimes,  as  if  he  hoped  to 
see  me,  and  as  if  he  expected  to  hear  my  rifle  every  moment, 
since  he  was  well  aware  that  our  time  of  meeting  was  past,  and 
that  I  was  pretty  sure  not  to  be  far  off. 

When  he  came  near  the  " Devil's  Stone"  he  checked  the  dog, 
and  came  to  a  determined  halt,  hesitating  whether  to^  continue 
tracking  the  stag  or  to  wait  for  my  appearance  and  assistance  ;  he 
took  a  long  look,  too,  at  the  country  far  beyond  where  the  animal 
really  was.  It  was  amusing  to  see  the  old  fellow,  as  he  sat 
within  eighty  yards  of  me,  perfectly  unconscious  that  the  stag 
was  so  near  him,  and  that  I  was  still  nearer.  The  whole  thing, 
too,  showed  the  great  necessity  of  always  having  a  good  tracking 
dog  out  when  deer-stalking ;  for  here  was  a  mortally-struck  stag 
lying  concealed  where  a  dozen  men  might  have  passed  within  a 
few  yards  without  seeing  him.  I  thought  it  time  to  finish  the 
business,  and  gave  a  low  whistle  to  warn  Donald  of  my  neighbour- 
hood before  I  stirred,  as  I  thought  it  not  at  all  unlikely  that  he 
would  fire  blindly  at  the  first  moving  thing  he  saw  amongst  the 
rocks  in  his  present  excited  state.  He  started  and  stared  round 
him.  I  saw  that  the  deer  only  crouched  the  lower,  and  would 
not  move  ;  so  whistling  again,  I  stood  up.  "  The  Lord  keep  us, 
sir,  but  you  flegged  me  just  awful, "  said  Donald.  "  But  did 
your  honour  see  a  stag  come  this  way  ? "  I  told  him  that  I  had, 
and  that  he  had  passed  on ;  but  I  did  not  say  how  far  he  had 
gone.  The  old  man  was  annoyed  in  no  slight  degree  at  the 

D 


50  LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 

information  ;  and  on  my  questioning  him  how  he  had  got  at  the 
deer,  etc.,  he  told  me  that,  as  he  came  to  me,  he  had  seen  a  crippled 
stag  coming  slowly  over  the  ground  exactly  towards  him  ;  and 
that  having  stooped  down  and  loaded  the  gun  he  carried  as  quickly 
as  he  could,  he  had  waited  till  the  stag  passed  within  twenty 
yards  of  him  ;  that  he  then  fired  both  barrels,  one  at  his  head  and 
neck ;  that  one  ball  had  broken  off  a  portion  of  the  deer's  horn, 
while  the  other  had  passed  through  his  body,  tumbling  him  over : 
but  that  he  had  quickly  recovered  and  made  off  in  my  direction, 
and  was  probably  now  in  the  burn  over  the  next  hill.  "  But  you 
are  aye  smiling,  sir ;  and  I  ken  weel  that  you've  seen  more  of  the 
brute  than  you  tell  me."  I  told  the  old  man  exactly  where  he 
was ;  and  having  made  him  quite  understand  the  very  rock  he 
was  behind,  I  gave  him  the  rifle  to  finish  the  work  he  had  com- 
menced, while  I  sat  down  with  the  two  dogs  in  full  view  of  the 
pool,  in  order  to  keep  the  attention  of  the  stag  occupied. 

"  N"ow  then,  Donald,  take  care ;  don't  be  in  a  hurry,  and  hit 
him  on  the  heart  or  the  head." 

"  No  fear,  no  fear ;  if  I  put  out,"  said  Donald,  "  ye  needna 
mind,  the  beast  is  as  gude  as  killed  already." 

Then  taking  a  prodigious  spoonful  of  snuff  to  clear  his  brain, 
and  divesting  himself  of  his  gamebag  and  other  encumbrances,  he 
set  off.  He  reached  a  mound  within  thirty  yards  of  the  stag,  and 
lying  flat  on  his  stomach,  with  his  rifle  resting  on  the  bank,  he 
aimed  long  and  steadily  ;  then,  with  sundry  kicks  and  contortions, 
screwing  himself  into  an  attitude  that  pleased  him  more,  he  took 
another  aim,  and  then  a  good  strong  pull  at  the  trigger — but  in 
vain,  as  he  had  not  cocked  the  rifle.  Without  taking  it  off  the 
rest  over  the  bank,  he  pulled  back  the  hammer  and  fired  instantly, 
missing  the  stag  entirely.  Donald  was  too  astonished  to  move ; 
but  not  so  the  stag,  who  jumped  up  and  made  off — going,  however, 
so  stiffly  and  lamely  that  I  saw  the  dogs  must  bring  him  to 
immediately.  So  I  let  them  go,  and  in  a  very  short  time  they 
had  the  poor  beast  on  the  ground,  and  were  both  fixed  on  him 
like  leeches,  the  bull-dog  on  his  throat  and  the  pointer  worrying 
at  his  shoulder. 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL.  51 

"  Bravo,  Donald  ! — well  missed  !  "  I  could  not  help  calling 
out  as  I  passed  him,  running  as  hard  as  I  could  to  help  the  dogs. 
The  old  man  was  not  long  in  joining  me  ;  and  the  dogs  were  soon 
got  off.  The  stag  was  bled,  and  then  examined  all  over  to  see 
where  he  had  been  struck. 

"  'Deed,  sir,"  said  Donald,  pointing  to  the  rifle,  "  she  is  as  gleg 
and  kittle  to  handle  as " 

Here  he  paused  as  if  at  a  dead  loss  for  a  simile ;  which 
I  was  obliged  to  help  him  to  at  last  by  suggesting,  "  As  your 
own  wife,  Donald."  At  which  he  indulged  in  a  low  inward 
chuckle  and  a  pinch  of  snuff,  without,  however,  denying  the 
"  soft  impeachment." 

On  looking  at  the  stag,  we  found  that  he  had  evidently  been 
very  lately  shot  at,  and  that  one  of  his  forelegs  was  broken  above 
the  knee — the  bone  smashed  entirely,  and  the  leg  hanging  on  by 
the  skin,  which  would  have  soon  worn  through ;  the  animal,  hav- 
ing lost  the  encumbrance  of  the  broken  limb,  would  soon,  if  left 
in  quiet,  have  entirely  recovered.  We  prepared  our  game  for 
being  "  left  till  called  for,"  and  sat  down  to  our  luncheon.  My 
account  to  Donald  of  the  death  of  my  other  stag  was  interrupted 
by  a  most  desperate  battle  between  the  dogs,  who  had  fallen  out 
over  the  dead  body ;  and  being  pretty  well  matched  in  size  and 
courage,  we  had  great  difficulty  in  reducing  them  to  order  and 
compelling  them  to  keep  the  peace. 

I  had  a  pleasant  though  not  very  bloody  afternoon's  shooting 
going  home,  killing  seven  brace  of  wild-flying  grouse,  a  mallard, 
and  two  blackcocks.  The  night  had  set  in  before  we  were  half 
way  through  the  woods  in  which  the  last  two  or  three  miles  of 
our  road  lay ;  we  could  hear  numberless  owls  hooting  and  calling 
on  the  tops  of  old  larch  trees.  Everything  else  was  as  still  as 
death. 

"  'Deed,  sir,  that 's  no'  canny  !  "  exclaimed  my  companion,  as 
an  owl  with  peculiar  vigour  of  lungs  uttered  his  wild  cry  close 
to  us,  and  then,  flitting  past  our  faces,  alighted  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  avenue  we  were  walking  along,  and  recommenced 
his  song  of  bad  omen.  "  If  it  wasn't  so  dark,  I'd  empty  the 


52 


LIFE    AT    ROSEHALL. 


gun  into  his  ugly  craig."  However,  as  it  was  so  dark,  the  owl 
escaped  being  sacrificed,  to  Donald's  dislike  this  time ;  and  we 
soon  reached  the  house,  where  the  comforts  of  my  own  dressing- 
room  were  by  no  means  unacceptable  after  so  long  an  absence 
from  razor,  brushes,  etc. 


INVERERNE. 

1846. 

GROUSE  disease  is  attributed  to  tapeworm.  I  am  more  inclined 
to  think  that  the  actual  disease  is  an  affection  of  the  liver,  and 
that  the  birds  attacked  by  this  liver  disease  areTsubject  to  tape- 
worm frequently,  but  far  from  invariably,  as  on  opening  the  dead 
birds  that  showed  symptoms  of  the  illness,  we  always  found  the 
liver  to  be  much  diseased,  but  seldom,  very  seldom,  found  any 
mark  of  tapeworm. 

There  is  striking  peculiarity  in  the  sick  birds.  Their  breast 
feathers  become  of  a  dull  reddish  brown,  quite  different  from  the 
colour  of  a  healthy  bird,  and  the  plumage  altogether  is  not 
so  bright  or  glossy  as  that  of  a  healthy  grouse. 

I  never  observed  so  rich  a  bloom  on  the  heather.  As  the 
dogs  hunted,  they  were  accompanied  by  a  cloud  of  dust,  or  rather 
pollen  from  the  flowers,  which  very  much  spoilt  their  scent.  The 
perfume  of  the  heather,  like  that  of  honey,  was  quite  striking  as 
we  walked  over  the  hills. 


54  INVERERHE. 

A  great  many  blue  or  mountain  hares  breed  on  these  hills 
owing  to  the  destruction  of  the  vermin.  They  are  very  annoying 
to  dogs  who  are  not  well  broken  from  running  hares,  owing 
to  their  manner  of  stopping  and  reconnoitring  their  enemy, 
sitting  upon  their  hind  quarters  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
dogs,  and  so  tempting  them  to  chase. 

On  the  9th  of  September  I  shot  two  wigeons  as  they  passed 
over  my  head  Hying  inland  in  the  evening.  These  birds  generally 
come  about  the  middle  of  October.  The  flock  I  saw  consisted  of 
eight  or  nine,  and  I  am  inclined  to  think  had  been  bred  in  the 
country,  though  their  doing  so  is  a  very  rare  occurrence. 

On  the  18th  of  the  month  I  killed  a  jacksnipe.  These  birds 
also  come  usually  near  the  end  of  October.  They  never  breed  in 
this  country.  There  had  been  no  severe  weather  to  drive  them 
here  earlier  than  usual.  I  killed  some  more  jacksnipe  during  the 
month.  The  woodcock  was  apparently  a  bird  bred  in  the  country. 

Both  hawks  *  were  merlins  ;  the  smallest  of  the  two  scarcely 
bigger  than  a  blackbird. 

The  land-rails  seldom  are  seen  here  after  July  or  August. 
They  seem  to  leave  us  as  soon  as  their  young  can  accompany 
them,  and  it  is  very  rare  to  find  them  after  the  corn  is  cut.  I 
killed  one  in  some  rough  ground  quite  away  from  their  usual 
haunts. 

Babbits,  hares,  and  also  wood-pigeons  continue  to  breed  later 
this  year  than  usual,  owing  to  the  fineness  of  the  season.  Green- 
finches also  breed  till  the  end  of  the  month. 

Whitethroats  and  swallows  have  entirely  disappeared  before 
the  end  of  the  month,  as  also  swifts,  martins,  cuckoo,  &c. 

A  wheatear  or  two  are  seen  till  the  beginning  of  October,  but 
very  few. 

Peewits  collect  in  great  numbers  near  the  shore,  also  golden 
plovers.  Great  flocks  of  young  gulls  of  all  kinds  are  seen. 

On  the  3rd  of  October  I  saw  a  wood-pigeon's  nest  with 
small  young  ones  in  it.  A  day  or  two  afterwards,  however,  both 
the  young  birds  were  dead. 

*  [These  hawks  had  been  shot  a  few  days  earlier. — ED.] 


INVERERNE.  5  5 

I  killed  a  land-rail  on  the  3rd,  the  latest  period  at  which 
1  ever  saw  them  here.  It  was  the  fattest  bird  that  I  ever  saw. 
Some  quails,  three  or  four,  were  killed  at  Duffus  early  in  the 
month.  I  had  seen  and  heard  them  here  in  the  month  of  May, 
so  that  they  probably  breed  here. 

A  weasel  (a  very  small  one)  killed  a  large  hen  that  was 
sitting  in  a  hedge  close  to  the  house. 

On  the  12th  of  this  month  I  saw  several  large  flocks  of  wild 
geese.  They  were  flying  towards  the  south-east.  There  was  a 
considerable  quantity  of  snow  covering  the  higher  hills  and  moun- 
tains in  Koss-shire  about  the  llth  and  12th. 

The  wigeons  were  very  numerous  also,  the  large  flocks 
appearing  to  have  come  about  the  9th  and  10th.  More  of  the 
mallard  duck  than  usual  in  the  bag.  The  latter  birds  fly  every 
evening  to  feed  in  the  stubbles.  They  fix  upon  a  field  where 
there  is  much  grain  left  on  the  ground,  and  but  little  grass 
or  weeds  to  cover  the  scattered  grains,  and  come  regularly  to  it 
soon  after  sunset.  They  have  some  means  of  communicating 
with  each  other,  as  their  numbers  increase  on  a  good  field  every 
night,  as  if  those  who  had  already  found  it  invited  their  friends 
to  the  feast. 

Kedshanks  very  numerous  on  the  shore. 

After  a  flood  in  the  river,  numbers  of  snipe  always  come 
down  for  a  day  or  two  to  feed  about  the  mud  left  by  the  water. 
Flocks  of  peewits  on  the  18th  (later  than  usual). 

I  shot  a  crossbill  on  the  10th,  out  of  a  small  company  of  five 
or  six. 

Water-ouzels  come  to  the  burns  near  the  sea  about  the 
beginning  of  October.  The  same  stones  are  occupied  year  after 
year  by  these  birds. 

On  the  18th,  flocks  of  starlings. 

I  shot  a  grey  gull,  5  ft.  11^  in.  between  the  tips  of  the  wings. 

In  the  beginning  of  October  the  rats  return  to  the  houses 
from  the  fields  and  ditches. 

Roe  in  good  condition,  and  with  their  winter  coat,  about  the 
second  week  in  October. 


5  6  INVERERNE. 

Spawning  trout  get  into  all  the  small  ditches  wherever  they 
find  running  water. 

Hen-harriers  andj  other  hawks  come  down  and  hunt  the 
low  grounds  in  October. 

Redwings  arrive  in  middle  of  October.  Fieldfares  about  the 
last  week  of  the  month. 

Grouse  in  October  and  September  feed  very  much  on 
the  stubble  fields,  and  are  snared  and  trapped  in  great  numbers 
by  the  shepherds  and  others  who  have  small  oat  fields  far  up  in 
the  hills.  They  frequently  leave  some  of  the  sheaves  on  the 
ground  for  the  express  purpose  of  catching  the  grouse.  The 
usual  manner  is  with  horsehair  nooses.  They  put  a  great  number 
of  these  snares  on  each  sheaf  of  corn,  and  catch  dozens  of  grouse 
in  a  morning. 

October  27th. — The  golden  plover  assemble  morning  and 
evening  in  immense  flocks  on  the  gravel  banks  along  the  edge 
of  the  river. 

After  a  flood  in  the  river  a  great  many  snipe  come  down  to 
feed  about  the  mud  left  after  the  water  has  subsided. 

I  shot  a  wood-pigeon  with  its  crop  entirely  full  of  well- 
ripened  acorns.  As  this  food  does  not  ripen  here  in  any  quantity, 
I  was  much  surprised  at  the  circumstance,  the  more  so  as  it  was 
a  young  bird,  and  the  spot  where  I  killed  it  was  at  the  distance 
of  some  miles  from  any  oak  tree.  In  England  I  have  frequently 
observed  that  the  wild  ducks  fly  to  considerable  distances  at 
night  time  to  feed  on  the  acorns  that  drop  from  oak  trees  stand- 
ing singly  in  the  fields. 

About  the  middle  of  October  the  roe  have  lost  their  red 
summer  coat  and  have  put  on  their  beautiful  mouse-coloured 
winter  covering,  though  the  hair  has  not  yet  acquired  its  full 
length.  These  animals  are  very  fond  of  feeding  in  the  clover 
fields,  nibbling  at  the  second  growth  that  comes  up  now.  As 
the  leaves  are  now  dropping  off  the  birch  and  larch,  the  roe 
leave  these  woods  now  and  betake  themselves  to  the  fir  woods, 
where  they  remain  till  the  spring  affords  them  shelter  again  in 
the  verdurous  woods  by  the  return  of  the  leaf. 


INVERERNE.  57 

The  proceedings  of  the  field  mouse  (mus.  sylvaticus)  are  now 
very  interesting.  These  pretty  little  animals  are  at  this  season 
very  busy  in  digging  out  and  arranging  their  holes  in  the  stubble 
fields.  They  have  already  laid  up  their  stores  of  grain,  acorns, 
nuts,  and  even  cherry  stones.  Sometimes  four  or  five  mice  are 
found  in  one  hole ;  almost  invariably  at  this  season,  if  any  mice 
are  in  a  hole,  the  aperture  is  completely  closed,  which  they  can 
only  do  from  within,  thus  shutting  themselves  up  from  the  cold 
winds.  The  quantity  of  earth  that  they  excavate  with  their 
tiny  paws  is"  quite  astonishing,  making  a  goodly  heap  in  a  single 
night.  My  gardener  encourages  the  boys  to  destroy  these  mice, 
and  they  turn  them  out  of  their  holes  by  pouring  a  pailful  of 
water  into  the  hole,  when  the  poor  little  animals  are  obliged  to 
leave  their  tenement. 


NOVEMBER. 

.  November  1st. — A  small  tomtit  has  taken  to  living  in  the 
house,  frequenting  the  drawing-room  and  an  adjoining  parlour. 
The  little  fellow  hops  about  without  the  smallest  fear,  searching 
for  and  eating  the  house  flies  and  other  insects.  He  seems  to 
principally  feed  on  the  larger  house  Hies,  prying  into  every 
crevice  about  the  shutters  and  window  curtains  after  these 
insects,  which  collect  now  in  g-reat  numbers,  and  being  in  a 
sleepy  condition  are  easily  caught  by  this  active  devourer.  The 
children  also  put  down  crumbs  on  the  table  where  I  am  writing, 
which  he  picks  up  close  to  me,  looking  up  into  my  face  without 
the  least  apparent  fear. 

November  6th. — Peewits  still  come  inland  in  the  dusk.  I 
saw  to-day  a  flock  of  snow  buntings,  the  first  I  have  seen  this 
year,  two  or  three  very  white  ones  amongst  the  flock,  which  is 
unusual  at  this  season  of  the  year.  I  flushed  several  brace  of 
jacksnipes  in  a  small  spot  of  rushes.  There  is  a  very  striking 
difference  in  the  colour  of  the  legs  of  different  birds  of  the  kind, 


INVERERNE.  5  9 

some  having  yellowish-green  legs  and  some  blue -coloured  legs. 
The  latter  appear  to  be  the  old  birds. 

The  thrushes  feed  in  great  numbers  now  in  the  turnip  fields. 

As  soon  as  the  wheat  is  sown,  birds  of  all  kinds  flock  on  it 
in  great  numbers — rooks,  wood-pigeons,  gulls,  and  small  birds, 
particularly  greenfinches.  The  flocks  of  the  latter  seem  to  consist 
almost  wholly  of  cock  birds. 

November  8th. — By  the  edge  of  the  river  are  tracks  of  four 
otters,  two  old  ones  and  two  young  ones.  They  are  evidently 
newly  arrived,  and  will  probably  remain  feeding  about  the  mouth 
of  the  river  till  a  flood  drives  them  away.  There  are  two  or 
three  small  hillocks  the  size  of  molehills  near  the  river,  to  which 
the  otters  invariably  resort ;  and  it  seems  that  whenever  an  otter 
arrives  in  that  part  of  the  river,  however  great  a  stranger  he 
may  be,  or  however  long  an  interval  may  have  elapsed  since  an 
otter  has  visited  the  hillock,  the  newcomer  goes  out  of  the  water 
to  examine  the  place  as  if  the  animal  wished  to  judge  by  the 
scenery  or  staleness  of  the  marks  on  it  what  likelihood  there 
may  be  of  any  other  otters  being  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Shy  as  the  otter  is,  and  easily  alarmed  in  his  ordinary 
pursuits,  no  animal  shows  more  courage  and  determination  in 
defending  its  young,  or  more  attachment  to  its  mate  or  companion. 
If  a  young  otter  is  taken  hold  of,  the  mother,  on  hearing  its  cry 
of  distress,  at  once  puts  off  all  her  timidity  and  rushes  to  the 
rescue  of  her  curious  looking  progeny.  I  have  known  a  man  to 
be  so  determinedly  attacked  by  a  female  otter,  that  he  was  obliged, 
in  self-defence,  to  drop  the  young  one  that  he  was  carrying  off. 
When  an  otter  is  caught  in  a  trap,  all  its  companions  that  may  be 
within  hearing  of  its  struggles  to  escape  immediately  repair 
to  the  spot  and  try  to  assist  the  captive  in  escaping. 

During  the  daytime  the  otter  lies  quietly  in  some  concealed 
spot,  either  in  a  hole  excavated  under  some  overhanging  bank  or 
root  of  a  tree,  or  in  some  hollow  place  amongst  a  cairn  of  stone  ; 
occasionally,  however,  when  surprised  by  the  light  of  day  in 
a  situation  where  he  deems  it  imprudent  to  continue  his  course 
towards  the  usual  hiding-place,  the  otter  will  lie  up  for  the  day 


60  INVEKERNE. 

in  some  very  unexpected  place,  crawling  quietly  into  some  con- 
venient drain,  or  choosing  a  dry  place  in  a  clump  of  rushes,  and 
there  he  will  lie  during  the  whole  day,  till  the  gloom  of  evening 
enables  him  to  continue  his  journeying,  or  to  commence  fishing 
again.  I  remember  an  instance  of  a  groom  in  Hampshire  being 
startled  by  an  otter  jumping  from  under  his  wheelbarrow,  which  he 
had  left  leaning  against  the  stable  wall  close  to  a  stream.  Into 
this  the  otter  had  crawled  in  the  morning,  and  there  he  would 
probably  have  remained  till  evening  had  not  the  man,  having 
occasion  for  the  barrow,  dislodged  him  by  turning  it  over. 

Though  the  otter  is  naturally  wholly  piscivorous,  on  emergency 
he  will  eat  flesh  or  fowl,  and  is  occasionally  caught  in  traps 
baited  with  a  pigeon,  a  piece  of  rabbit,  or  whatever  else  the 
gamekeeper  may  make  use  of  in  catching  other  vermin.  The 
trap  that  holds  an  otter  must,  however,  have  both  a  powerful 
spring  and  be  well  chained  to  a  peg,  with  a  swivel  or  two  on  the 
chain  to  prevent  the  animal  breaking  it  by  dint  of  twisting. 

In  hunting  down  the  course  of  a  river  during  the  night  time, 
in  descending  the  stream  the  otter  always  keeps  the  water, 
gliding,  in  his  quiet  ghostlike  manner,  down  the  deep  pools, 
making  scarcely  a  ripple  as  he  floats  down,  sometimes  diving  and, 
indeed,  rarely  showing  much  of  his  head  above  the  surface, 
excepting  when  to  listen  to  some  distant  sound,  or  to  gaze  at 
some  doubtful  object,  he  suddenly  rises  half  his  length  per- 
pendicularly out  of  the  water.  In  passing  the  fords  he  wades 
down  the  shallowest  place,  or  if  the  stream  is  there  very  rapid,  he 
comes  out  of  the  water  and  follows  the  bank  of  the  river,  moving 
along  in  a  curious  leaping  manner.  When  in  pursuit  of  fish,  the 
otter  seems,  as  far  as  can  be  observed,  to  try  to  get  below  his  prey 
in  order  to  seize  it  by  the  throat.  The  quickness  of  his 
movements  in  the  water,  as  well  as  the  little  disturbance  he 
makes,  are  quite  wonderful,  gliding  swiftly  and  noiselessly  as  an 
arrow  from  a  bow.  In  ascending  the  stream,  to  return  homewards 
to  his  day  quarters,  he  leaves  the  water  wherever  the  current 
is  at  all  strong,  and,  indeed,  he  seems  to  travel  at  this  time 
almost  as  much  by  land  as  by  water. 


INVERERNE.  6 1 

November  llth. — The  snowliakes  [bunting]  seem  to  be  con- 
stantly arriving  from  the  north  in  considerable  flights.  During 
the  two  days  of  damp  fog  that  have  occurred,  the  partridges 
entirely  leave  the  turnip  fields  and  remain  all  day  on  the  sand- 
banks and  other  dry  places  near  the  river. 

November  12th. — Great  flocks  of  snowflakes  on  the  hills, 
also  immense  numbers  of  greenfinches  in  the  corn-yards.  A 
small  flock  of  redpolls.  I  found  more  snipe  than  usual  on 
that  ground.  The  congregating  of  these  different  birds,  and  the 
cold  raw  mists  that  have  now  lasted  three  days,  seem  as  if  snow 
was  coming;  Partridges  are  quite  unapproachable  just  now. 
The  grass  and  every  leaf  is  so  saturated  with  wet  that  these 
birds,  never  squatting  flat  on  the  ground,  are  in  a  state  of  constant 
watchfulness.  The  water-ouzel  sings  all  day  now,  sometimes 
sitting  on  a  stone,  and  at  other  times  floating  with  half-open 
wings  on  the  surface  of  the  pools. 

The  burns  are  full  of  spawning  trout.  In  the  shallows  they 
can  be  seen  ploughing  up  the  gravel  with  their  noses,  in  order  to 
make  beds  for  their  spawn. 

November  13th. — The  partridges  are  collected  in  flocks  like 
grouse.  Saw  a  great  number  of  fieldfares  and  redwings. 

Many  tracks  of  foxes  and  otter  by  the  edge  of  the  river. 

November  14th. — Immense  flocks  of  fieldfa-res  and  redwings 
in  every  new-sown  wheat  field.  Great  numbers  of  wood-pigeons. 
The  sea-gulls  feed  indiscriminately  on  worms,  snails,  and  grain. 
Partridges  just  now  are  shifting  their  ground,  and  fresh  coveys 
appear  everywhere.  They  leave  the  turnip  fields  and  remain  all 
day  on  heather  or  sandy  ground. 

November  24th. — I  saw  two  peewits  to-day.  I  remark  this, 
wishing  to  keep  note  of  the  latest  day  on  which  I  see  any  of 
these  birds. 

November  26th. — Saw  to-day  five  swans.  They  were  flying  at 
the  height  of  nine  or  ten  feet  from  the  ground  towards  the  bay. 
They  were  at  the  time  coming  from  the  south,  probably  from 
Lochindorb,  where  these  birds  occasionally  rest  for  a  day  or  so,  but 
never  remain  longer,  as  that  loch  is  not  adapted  for  their  feeding. 


6  2  INVERERNE. 

The  wind,  which  was  blowing  strongly  from  the  north,  obliged  them 
to  fly  so  low.  After  alighting  in  the  bay  for  about  half  an  hour 
they  rose  and  flew  (as  they  invariably  do  for  a  short  time)  to  wind- 
ward, then  turning  they  winged  their  way  rapidly  with  the  wind  in 
the  direction  of  the  Loch  of  Spynie,  which  is  a  favourite  resting- 
place,  being  shallow  and  abounding  in  the  grass  on  which  they  feed. 

S tells  me  that  there  are  two  kinds  of  wild  swans  fre- 
quenting this  country — one  perfectly  white  and  with  their  feet 
entirely  black,  the  other  kind  having  the  lower  parts  of  a  cream 
colour,  and  their  feet  mottled  with  brown  and  black.  He  also 
says  that  the  latter  kind  are  larger  than  the  former. 

Hares  have  some  peculiar  habits  which,  from  the  animal 
itself  being  so  common,  are  not  often  remarked,  as  no  one  looks 
on  a  hare  as  anything  more  than  an  article  of  food,  whereas  it  is 
as  interesting  and  beautiful  a  creature  as  exists.  One  peculiarity 
is  the  great  love  that  hares  have  for  taking  up  their  quarters  near 
houses.  I  find  invariably  a  hare  or  two  close  to  the  houses  of  the 
town,  and  also  close  to  the  different  cottages  on  my  ground. 

I  remember  once  sleeping  at  a  shepherd's  house  on  the  hills. 
During  almost  all  the  night  the  dogs  of  the  place  were  barking 
and  yelping  at  my  deerhound,  entirely  preventing  me  from 
sleeping.  I  was  the  first  person  up,  and  on  going  to  the  back  of 
the  house  to  look  at  the  morning  sun,  I  started  a  hare  that  had 
made  her  form  up  against  the  turf  wall  of  the  cottage  undeterred 
by  the  constant  noise  that  had  gone  on  during  all  the  night. 
Similar  instances  have  often  fallen  under  my  observation.  I 
found  a  hare  sitting  the  other  day  within  five  feet  of  where  I 
was  standing,  and  in  a  very  open  place.  I  wanted  to  show  her 
to  one  of  my  children,  who  was  riding  four  or  five  hundred  yards 
from  the  spot,  so  T  stood  still  and  sent  a  man  to  call  the  boy. 
In  the  meantime  I  had  to  call  loudly  at  and  rate  my  dogs,  four 
of  which  were  hunting  about  the  place.  Seeing  with  their  quick 
and  peculiar  instinct  that  I  saw  something,  the  dogs  became  very 
eager,  and  it  required  a  great  deal  of  calling  at  to  keep  them  quiet 
and  make  them  lie  for  four  or  five  minutes.  When  the  child  came 
I  had  to  point  the  hare  out  to  him.  The  poor  little  animal,  notwith- 


TNVEREKNE.  63 

standing  all  this  noise,  did  not  move  so  much  as  one  of  her  paws, 
but  remained  perfectly  motionless,  with  her  eye  fixed  on  mine. 
The  moment  1  took  my  eye  off'  her  (which  T  had  not  done  all  this 
time)  she  darted  off,  and  springing  through  the  only  spot  free  from 
her  numerous  enemies,  she  was  over  the  brow  of  a  hill  in  two  strides. 

A  hare  will  allow  a  person  to  pass  within  a  yard  or  two 
of  her  when  sitting,  as  long  as  the  man's  direction  does  not  seem 
likely  to  lead  him  exactly  over  her,  and  as  long  as  she  fancies  she 
is  unobserved.  In  cover,  hares  steal  away  at  some  distance 
off  much  more  frequently  than  they  do  in  an  open  place ;  but 
different  hares  act  very  differently  in  this  respect  in  the  same 
ground  and  on  the  same  days,  some  lying  close  and  others 
stealing  away  wildly  with  no  apparent  reason. 

November  2Qth. — Saw  five  wild  swans. 

November  27 'th. — Several  flocks  of  swans  seen  passing  to  the 
bay.  It  is  an  invariable  fact  that  all  the  flocks  of  swans,  when 
they  first  come,  are  seen  arriving  from  the  southwards,  although 
we  well  know  that  they  must  visit  this  country  from  the  north. 
It  appears  to  me  that  they  must  alight  on  some  of  the  lochs 
on  Strathspey,  or  in  that  district,  and  that  they  turn  northwards 
to  Findhorn  Bay,  from  where  they  distribute  themselves  amongst 
the  lakes  where  they  feed,  such  as  Lochlee,  the  Loch  of  Spynie, 
etc.  Judging  from  the  sudden  appearance  of -these  birds,  I  have 
no  doubt  that  we  shall  have  a  storm  of  snow  in  a  day  or  two. 

November  28th. — The  ground,  as  I  anticipated  from  seeing 
the  swans,  is  covered  with  snow,  deeper  than  I  ever  saw  it  at 
this  season.  No  swans  to  be  seen  in  the  bay,  but  an  infinity  of 
wild  ducks,  etc.  Shot  several  mallards  and  one  dun  diver  (mergus 
castor  linnceus).  This  bird  is  much  smaller  than  the  female 
goosander  (for  which  it  is  sometimes  taken),  though  evidently 
quite  full  grown  and  well  plumaged — the  cream  colour  of  the 
breast,  and  peculiarly  clean  and  beautiful,  and  the  curiously 
serrated  bill  of  a  bright  red  colour.  It  brought  up  twenty-five 
of  the  small  fish  we  called  sticklebacks  and  a  small  eel,  all  quite 
recently  caught,  The  edges  of  the  bill  are  so  formed  that  a  fish 
or  other  slippery  prey  easily  goes  into  his  mouth,  but  owing 


64 


INVERERNE. 


to  the  teeth  all  sloping  inwards,  they  act  like  the  barb  of  a  hook, 
and  prevent  anything  that  has  once  entered  from  escaping. 
Facilis  descensus  Averni,  sed  revocare  gradum,  etc.,  so  would  say 
the  small  fish. 

Bewick  describes  this  bird  as  27  in.  long  and  weighing 
3  Ibs.  I  find  it  20  in.  long  and  weighing  [?]  Ibs. 

He  has  evidently  measured  a  female  goosander  instead  of 
a  dun  diver,  which  latter  bird  is  always  much  smaller  than 
the  former.  The  bird  killed  to-day  had  about  it  all  the  un- 
mistakeable  appearance  of  a  mature,  well-grown  bird  of  its  kind. 

Blackbirds  and  thrushes  very  busy  under  the  garden  walls  in 
search  of  snails,  etc. 

The  field  mice  have  the  entrances  to  all  their  holes  stopped 
up  this  cold  weather. 


DECEMBEE. 

Large  flocks  of  golden  plovers  both  on  the  sands  and  in 
the  fields,  and  on  the  hills.  They  appear  to  rest  on  the  heather 
during  the  high  tides,  when  the  sands  and  banks  are  covered 
in  the  bay.  As  the  tide  recedes,  they  return  to  the  sands.  I, 
however,  consider  both  these  birds  and  the  peewits  as  almost, 
if  not  wholly,  night  feeding  birds.  They  evidently  feed  all  night 
in  the  fields  (where  there  is  not  much  frost),  and  on  the  shore 
when  the  earth  is  frozen. 

December  3rd. — After  two  days  of  snow,  a  fresh  north-west 
wind,  which  blows  away  and  melts  all  the  snow  near  the  sea. 
The  common  wild  ducks  during  the  day  were  flying  to  and  fro 
from  the  sea  to  the  stubble  fields.  These  birds  are  always  very 
anxious  to  take  to  the  fields  on  the  firsl  disappearance  of 
frost  and  snow ;  as,  during  the  time  that  the  ground  is  hard  with 
frost  or  covered  with  snow,  they  cannot  feed  on  the  corn, 
the  grass,  or  the  worms  and  insects  on  which  they  feed. 

A  singular  incident  happened  to  me  to-day  in  shooting  at 
a  mallard.  The  bird  flew  away  apparently  not  injured.  I 
happened  to  be  watching  him,  and  as  he  just  went  out  of  sight 
over  a  hill  at  the  distance  of,  at  least,  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  I  fancied 
that  I  saw  the  bird  show  the  white  feather  below  his  wing,  as  if 
he  had  tumbled  down  in  his  flight.  On  going  up  to  the  place,  I 
found  him  on  the  ground  with  his  wing  broken  close  to  the  body. 
The  bird  had,  at  first,  flown  with  the  wind,  and  then  flew 
well  enough,  but  after  battling  against  the  wind  for  a  few 
hundred  yards,  the  bone  (which  must  have  been  injured  by 
the  shot)  broke  in  two. 


6  6  INVERERNE. 

My  retriever  brought  me  a  water-rail  (rallus  aquaticus), 
which  he  had  caught  amongst  some  rushes,  the  little  bird  not 
being  injured.  I  took  it  home  to  show  to  my  children,  and  then 
turned  it  loose  again  in  a  running  stream,  where  it  bustled  away 
quite  at  its  ease,  and  seemingly  indifferent  to  the  circumstance 
(rather  a  singular  one  in  the  history  of  its  life)  of  having  been  an 
hour  or  two  in  my  shooting  coat  pocket.  I  was  struck  with  the 
courage  of  the  little  fellow  when  the  dog  brought  him.  He 
fought  away  with  both  feet  and  bill,  striking  not  only  the  dog's 
face,  but  my  hand  when  I  took  hold  of  him,  and  when  I  put  my 
hand  into  my  pocket  where  he  was,  he  flew  at  my  fingers,  pecking 
at  them  with  all  his  strength.  I  had  occasion,  on  another  day, 
to  remark  the  courage  of  a  water-rail.  One  rose  from  a  ditch 
where  the  ground  was  covered  with  snow.  As  I  did  not  fire 
at  him,  he  flew  for  a  hundred  yards,  and  pitched  on  the  snow  in 
the  adjoining  field,  and  immediately  set  off  to  return  to  the  water 
from  which  he  had  been  flushed.  A  large  black-backed  gull, 
seeing  the  little  black  bird  on  the  snow,  made  a  dart  at  it  to  carry 
it  off;  but  the  little  rail  immediately  flung  himself  on  his  back, 
and  whenever  the  gull  flew  at  him,  he  struck  out  manfully  with 
bill  and  claws,  springing  up  and  pulling  feathers  out  of  his 
gigantic  enemy,  and  keeping  him  off.  Afraid,  however,  that  the 
little  rail  would  be  killed,  I  went  and  drove  away  the  gull,  and 
allowed  him  to  run  back  to  the  water. 

The  water-rail  is,  at  all  times,  a  rare  and  solitary  bird 
in  this  country.  I  have  but  rarely  seen  them,  although  I  am 
constantly  in  the  habit  of  hunting  for  snipe,  etc.,  in  the  rushy 
places  and  ditches  where  the  rails  do  frequent  when  here.  Their 
tracks,  too,  are  but  rarely  seen  in  the  snow,  although  a  rail 
evidently  travels  a  great  distance  on  foot,  passing  over  large  open 
fields  from  one  ditch  to  another.  I  have  sometimes  traced  them 
in  the  snow  for  long  distances. 

I  hear  the  swans  now  during  the  moonlight  nights  calling  in 
the  bay,  and  the  wigeons  keep  up  a  constant  whistling,  varied 
sometimes  by  a  low  croaking  quack.  The  latter  birds  feed 
wholly  on  grass  and  grassy  weeds,  coming  regularly  on  the  ebb  of 


INVERERNE.  67 

the  tide  to  graze  on  the  grassy  banks  that  are  left  bare.  I  rarely 
see  them  take  to  the  fields.  I  saw  to-day  three  long-tailed  ducks 
(anas  glacialis)  in  the  burn. 

December  llth. — Severe  snowstorm.  Wind  N.-E.  Wigeon 
are  driven  to  the  open  ditches,  and  are  very  tame.  The  long- 
tailed  ducks  are  also  in  every  open  pool  and  ditch,  and  so  tame 
that  they  will  rather  dive  than  fly,  however  near  I  approach. 

December  12th  and  1 3th. — The  snipe  begin  to  come  in  great 
numbers  to  every  open  ditch,  but.  are  very  wild  in  consequence  of 
all  their  cover  being  beaten  down  by  the  snow,  which  makes 
them  unable  to  conceal  themselves. 

December  14:th  and  L5th. — The  redwings,  thrushes,  linnets, 
and  other  small  birds  become  very  tame  and  distressed  for  want 
of  food.  A  tawny  bunting^  (a  rare  bird  here)  came  into  the 
house.  The  rooks  do  great  mischief  to  the  corn  stacks,  tearing 
out  the  straw  and  carrying  off'  the  corn.  Along  every  ditch  side 
and  drain  I  see  the  tracks  of  weasels.  These  little  animals  seem 
to  travel  an  astonishing  distance,  hunting  carefully  every  furze 
bush  and  other  place  which  might  conceal  any  prey.  A  specimen 
of  the  little  auk  was  killed  by  a  man  in  a  ditch  leading  into  the 
sea.  The  river  is  quite  choked  up  at  the  end  by  the  accumulation 
of  frozen  snow  and  ice,  and  the  whole  bay  (excepting  a  small  part 
near  Findhorn)  is  covered  with  masses  of  ice  and  snow. 

December  19th. — The  frost  and  snow  commence  to  go.  There 
is  still,  however,  a  considerable  depth  in  sheltered  places,  which 
are  not  reached  by  the  wind.  Nothing  melts  snow  so  quickly  as 
wind.  The  snipe  have  collected  in  great  numbers  about  every 
unfrozen  place,  but  from  the  grass  and  rushes  being  covered  with 
snow,  they  are  very  wild.  The  partridges  and  hares,  from  the 
same  reason,  are  quite  unapproachable.  Kabbits  burrow  under 
the  snow.  During  the  first  two  days  of  snow,  rabbits  and  hares 
appear  to  move  very  little.  Fieldfares  and  redwings,  though 
weak  and  tame,  do  not  become  lean  for  the  first  week,  but  seem 
to  find  sufficient  food  about  the  springs  and  shore  to  keep  them 
in  good  order. 

*  [Probably  a  young  snow  bunting. — ED.] 


68 


INVERERNE. 


I  was  much  struck  by  the  strength  displayed  by  rooks  in  digging 
up  the  snow  and  frozen  ground  in  search  of  the  fresh-sown  wheat, 
large  spaces  of  the  fields  appearing  as  if  rooted  up  by  pigs. 

Wood-pigeons  destroy  turnips  (particularly  Swedish  turnips) 
during  snow,  by  digging  into  them  in  a  manner  which  seems 
quite  beyond  the  strength  of  their  bills. 

Eobins  are  very  carnivorous,  devouring  raw  meat  most 
voraciously.  So  do  tomtits. 

The  water-ouzels  seem  to  enjoy  this  cold  weather,  flitting 
about  and  warbling  with  great  appearance  of  delight. 

Weasels  and  stoats  wander  to  great  distances  in  snow, 
particularly  along  the  sides  of  water. 

December  2lst. — Immense  flocks  of  wigeon,  mallards,  teal, 
coots,  and  other  waterfowl.  Spynie  is  the  best  loch  in  the 
north  of  Scotland  for  wildfowl,  and  a  great  resort  of  swans,  etc. 
Towards  evening  the  mallards  and  wigeon  flew  backwards  and 
forwards  about  the  edges  and  to  the  few  ditches  and  streams 
that  were  not  snowed  over  or  covered  with  ice. 


1847. 
J  A  N  U  A  E  Y. 

January  14^,  1847. — Neither  wigeon  nor  teal  are  yet  in 
full  plumage.  Occasionally  I  kill  a  drake  wigeon  in  full 
feather,  but  the  generality  of  them  are  still  much  mottled  with 
brown.  There  is  a  very  great  difference  in  the  size  of  the  drake 
and  duck  wigeon. 

A  great  number  of  the  bird  called  the  little  auk  are  found, 
being  dead  along  the  shore. 

The  wood-pigeons  now  feed  entirely  on  the  turnip  leaves. 
Sometimes  they  dig  at  a  root  that  has  been  commenced  on  by  a 
rabbit  or  hare,  but  I  do  not  think  that  they  are  the  first  to 
break  the  skin  of  a  turnip. 

I  see  a  great  number  of  the  nests  of  the  garden  spider,  full  of 
eggs,  about  old  railings,  the  garden  walls,  etc.,  and  the  tit-mice 
seem  to  feed  much  on  them. 

The  greenfinches  are  in  immense  nocks,  and  begin  to  sing 
when  collected  on  the  trees.  The  corn-bunting  and  the  yellow- 
hammer  collect  in  nocks  on  the  tops  of  the  trees  and  sing  their 
shrill,  but  not  unpleasant  note. 

A  weasel  had  eaten  a  great  many  of  the  mice  caught  in  the 


VO  INVEREHNE. 

boys'  traps,  and  was  at  last  caught  itself  in  a  rat  trap.  I  don't 
know  a  more  courageous  little  animal  than  the  weasel.  When 
overtaken  by  a  dog  it  flies  directly  at  the  dog's  head  and  bites 
furiously.  I  also  shot  a  beautiful  milk-white  stoat  that  came  out 
of  a  rabbit  hole  where  I  was  ferreting. 

January  loth. — The  wigeon  now  begin  to  feed  very  con- 
stantly and  quietly  on  the  grassy  banks  and  islands  about  the 
bay,  grazing  along  like  tame  geese  in  close  flocks.  Partridges 
during  the  hard  frost  feed  on  clover  very  much.  In  this  country 
they  never  get  lean,  apparently  requiring  very  little  food.  In 
the  snow  they  are  unapproachable,  though  I  remember  once, 
when  a  boy  at  school,  killing  nearly  a  whole  covey  in  the  snow. 
I  was  lying  hid,  and  a  covey  of  partridges  came  within  shot  of 
the  old  flint  gun  that  I  had  borrowed  for  the  occasion,  so  I  shot 
at  them,  killing  three.  Seeing  that  the  rest  of  the  covey  did  not 
move  away,  but  after  looking  up  collected  round  their  dead 
companions,  I  fired  again  (having  reloaded),  killing  one  or  two 
more.  Still  keeping  concealed,  I  again  loaded  and  got  another 
shot,  and  might  have  killed  them  to  the  last  had  not  the  school- 
fellow who  was  with  me  raised  himself,  when  the  birds  imme- 
diately flew  away ;  that  is,  the  few  that  remained  alive  flew 
away.  Although  I  cannot  plead  guilty  to  ever  having  tried  the 
same  plan  again,  I  have  been  told  that  these  birds  never  fly  oft' 
from  the  report  of  the  gun  till  they  see  the  shooter. 

Wigeon  in  large  flocks,  and  feeding  all  day  on  the  grass 
banks  very  greedily. 

I  see  that  the  mallard  duck  feeds  now  very  much  in  the 
last  year's  potato  fields.  In  the  crop  of  one  that  I  opened  I 
found  a  great  quantity  of  potatoes,  oats,  and  shrimps.  I  never 
observed  them  feed  on  potatoes  till  this  year.  I  fancy  that  they 
are  attracted  by  the  vast  quantity  of  half-rotten  potatoes  left  in 
the  fields  owing  to  the  failure  of  that  crop  this  season.  My  own 
ducks  appeared  very  fond  of  feeding  on  the  diseased  and  half- 
rotten  potatoes  that  were  put  in  a  heap  and  covered  slightly  over 
with  mould,  the  ducks  grubbing  and  digging  them  up  to  a 
considerable  depth. 


INVERERNE. 


January  29th. — A  harder  frost  last  night  than  we  have  had 
during  the  whole  winter,  but  rainy  again  in  the  daytime.  I 
put  up  a  water-rail  to-day  amongst  some  furze  bushes  quite  away 
from  any  water.  I  found  the  remains  of  a  little  auk  some 
distance  up  the  river,  half-a-mile  from  the  sea.  The  Hocks  of 
greenfinches  seem  to  increase  daily.  The  redshank  commences 
to  change  his  note,  uttering  the  peculiar  whistle  which  they 
make  in  the  spring.  The  long-tail  ducks  were  particularly 
noisy  in  the  bay  to-day  when  the  tide  was  coming  in.  Their 
cry  is  very  musical,  and  unlike  that  of  any  other  bird.  It 
may  resemble  the  bugle  note  of  the  wild  swan  slightly.  The 
rooks  do  much  injury  to  the  turnips,  boring  into  them  with 
their  sharp  and  strong  bills.  The  boys  at  the  farm  near  this 
have  two  trout,  about  six  inches  in  length,  in  the  wooden  trough 
out  of  which  their  horses  drink.  The  fish  seem  quite  lively  and 
well,  though  they  have  lived  in  the  trough  since  August  last. 
When  the  fresh  water  is  pumped  in  for  the  horses,  they  dart  up 
to  the  place  where  it  falls  into  the  trough,  and  seem  to  enjoy  it 
very  much  without  the  least  symptom  of  shyness. 

January  30th. — The  jacksnipe,  which  have  disappeared  for 
a  long  time,  appear  again.  I  killed  a  brace  to-day.  The  com- 
mon hares  turn  very  grey  in  this  country  about  now.  Those 
killed  in  woods  do  not  appear  to  turn  so  grey  as  those  killed  in 
open  ground.  Immense  nights  of  fieldfares  and 
(WindKE.) 


redwings. 


FEBKUAKY. 

February  1st. — Ground  quite  covered  with  snow,  and  a  great 
quantity  of  frozen  ice  and  snow  floating  in  the  bay,  which  quite 
prevents  the  wild  ducks  and  wigeon  from  coming  near  the 
shore.  The  river,  too,  is  full  of  floating  snow  and  ice.  I  never 
saw  so  many  wigeon  as  are  just  now  on  this  coast.  Late  in 
the  evening  I  heard  a  peewit  call  as  the  bird  rose  from  a  field, 
when  it  was  too  dark  to  distinguish  it.  The  drake  wigeon  are 
now  in  full  plumage. 

February  2nd. — Both  rooks  and  wood-pigeons  must  commit 
great  damage  on  the  wheat  and  the  turnips.  The  former  is  only 
attacked  by  the  rooks,  the  wood-pigeons'  bills  not  being  hard 
enough  to  dig  into  the  frozen  ground.  I  shot  a  large  stoat 
to-day  only  partially  white,  although  two  or  three  that  I  had 
killed  lately  (and  even  some  weeks  back)  had  been  as  pure  a 
white  as  snow.  The  stoat,  when  fully  changed,  is  the  whitest 
animal  that  I  know.  Whether  the  one  killed  to-day  is  a  young 
animal  I  cannot  tell,  but  certainly  it  was  a  peculiarly  large  one. 

The  collie  dogs  in  this  country  kill  a  great  number  of  hares 
and  rabbits.  I  constantly  find  marks  in  the  snow  of  their 
having  done  so. 


INVERERNE.  73 

February  9th. — Very  severe  frost,  much  snow  and  drift. 
The  fieldfares  in  great  numbers  on  the  Swedish  turnips,  and 
I  was  much  astonished  at  the  great  damage  done  by  them  to 
the  roots.  I  watched  some  of  the  birds  digging  at  the  turnips 
with  their  bills  and  chipping  and  scooping  out  great  pieces,  in 
this  manner  destroying  half  the  crop  at  least  by  letting  the  frost 
into  the  roots.  The  fieldfares  themselves  (some  of  them  being 
shot)  had  so  strong  a  smell  of  turnip  that  they  could  not  be 
cooked,  being  perfectly  unfit  to  eat  from  the  rankness  of  their 
smell,  which  resembled  that  of  rotten  turnips ;  otherwise  the 
birds  were  not  only  in  good  condition,  but  quite  fat. 

The  whole  bay  and  all  the  streams  and  springs  were  so  filled 
up  with  drift  snow  and  ice  that  there  was  not  a  single  duck  of  any 
sort  to  be  seen,  with  the  exception  of  one  morillon,  who  had  found 
out  about  six  feet  square  of  open  water  in  the  burn.  On  being 
flushed  from  this  he  flew  a  long  distance  up  the  stream  in  search  of 
some  other  opening,  but,  not  finding  any,  came  back  and  plumped 
down  into  the  same  place  close  to  me,  and  there  I  left  him. 

I  never  saw  the  low  country  here  in  such  a  state  with  snow 
since  I  have  lived  here.  Saw  a  flock  of  larks,  which  (this  winter) 
is  a  rare  sight. 

February  IQtli. — Deep  snow.  In  tracking  rabbits  on  the 
muir,  observed  that  several  of  them  had  merely  gone  fifty  yards 
from  their  seat  under  a  furze  bush,  and  after  eating  the  shoots 
off  the  nearest  bush,  had  returned  to  the  same  place. 

February  1 2th. — I  find  many  wood-pigeons  that  I  kill  have 
the  upper  part  of  their  bills  and  their  feet  covered  with  warty 
excrescences,  especially  the  later  young  birds  of  this  season. 
Those  who  have  this  disease  are  generally  weak  and  thin. 

February  1 5th. — Shot  ducks  in  Loch  of  Spynie.  There  are 
immense  numbers  of  mallard  and  wigeon  on  the  loch  and  some 
pochards,  pintail  ducks,  morillons,  and  teal.  We  killed  a  female 
duck  of  a  kind  quite  unknown  to  us — a  beautiful  shaped  bird 
with  plain  brown  plumage  like  that  of  a  duck  teal,  but  with 
every  feather  marked  with  a  shell  or  scale  pattern,  and  about  the 
size  of  a  hen  wigeon.  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  it  is  a  female 


74  INVERERNE. 

garganey  (anas  querquedula).  Besides  these  birds,  there  were 
immense  Hocks  of  coots  arid  numbers  of  moorhens,  &c.  One 
swan  only  is  at  present  on  the  loch,  which,  from  its  half-frozen 
state,  is  not  in  good  condition  for  wildfowl.  In  the  dusk  we 
took  up  position  near  some  potato  fields,  where  the  potatoes  had 
not  been  raised  in  consequence  of  the  disease  in  the  plant.  Here 
we  killed  several  mallards  and  ducks.  These  birds  feed  greedily 
on  the  half-rotten  potatoes. 

February  16th. — Shot  wildfowl  again  at  the  lake.  There 
seems  to  be  an  immense  proportion  of  drakes  amongst  the  wigeon. 
These  birds  have  begun  to  pair,  and  flew  about  towards  evening 
in  pairs.  We  placed  ourselves  this  evening  at  dusk  in  the  line 
of  flight  taken  by  the  wigeon  from  the  lake  to  their  feeding- 
places  on  the  grass  fields  bordering  the  water's  edge.  At  dusk 
the  wigeon  flew  as  fast  as  the  flocks  could  succeed  each  other, 
sometimes  in  small  companies,  sometimes  in  pairs.  They  utter  a 
peculiar  whistle  when  on  wing,  different  to  their  whistle  when 
feeding  or  swimming.  1  shot  five  myself  as  they  passed — all 
drakes.  Out  of  ten  wigeon  which  we  killed  this  evening  only 
one  was  a  duck. 

The  rooks  begin  to  collect  in  the  ash  trees  at  Gordonstown, 
where  they  breed,  making  a  great  noise  in  the  morning.  I  also 
heard  the  spring  cry  of  the  kestrel  hawk. 

[February  20th. — Wild  cats  are  brindled  grey,  and  I  have 
observed  that  domestic  cats  of  that  colour  are  more  inclined 
to  take  to  the  woods  and  hunt  for  themselves  than  others. 
When  they  do  so,  they  grow  very  large  and  are  most  destructive 
to  game  of  all  kinds. 

A  large  cat  of  this  colour  found  out  some  tame  rabbits 
belonging  to  my  boys  and  killed  several  of  them.  At  last  we 
saw  him  come  out  of  a  hole  where  some  white  rabbits  were 
breeding,  and  he  was  shot.  The  brute  had  evidently  been  living 
on  them  for  some  time.  I  first  discovered  that  he  was  in  the 
hole  by  the  old  rabbits  showing  alarm  and  watching  the  mouth 
of  the  hole  with  erect  ears.]  * 

*  [See  "Sport  in  Moray,  1882,"  p.  39.— ED.] 


INVEREHNE.  75 

February  20tJi. — Saw  a  pair  of  crested  cormorants,^  at  least 
I  consider  the  birds  which  I  saw  to  be  of  this  kind.  They  had 
the  white  mark  on  the  hip,  and  appeared  to  be  different  from  the 
cormorants  which  I  usually  see  here,  both  in  being  of  a  dark 
colour  and  of  a  shorter  and  heavier  shape. 

February  2 1st. — Tracks  of  three  otters  in  the  Burn  of  Moy. 
The  tracks  on  the  banks  are  always  going  up  stream,  as  the  otter 
fishes  all  the  way  down,  and  seldom  leaves  the  water  till  he  has 
done  fishing ;  when,  on  returning  up  the  stream  to  his  daily 
hiding-place,  he  frequently  comes  out  on  the  sandy  banks,  etc. 

February  24:th. — liennie  brought  in  a  wild  swan — weight, 
18  Ib.  ;  breadth,  7  feet  1  inch.  He  shot  it  in  a  small  pool,  near 
which  he  was  waiting  for  wild  ducks  yesterday  evening.  After 
he  had  fired  at  it  with  duck  shot,  the  bird  Hew  about  thirty 
yards,  when  one  of  its  wing  bones  broke  close  to  the  body, 
having  been  cracked  by  the  shot,  and  then  broke  entirely  by  the 
weight  of  the  bird.  Kennie  goes  this  evening  to  wait  for  the 
otter  in  Moy  Burn.  He  expects  to  get  a  shot  as  it  goes  down 
one  of  the  shallow  fords  of  the  stream.  Going  down  the  burn 
towards  the  sea,  the  otter  fishes  all  the  way,  seldom  leaving  the 
water ;  but  having  eaten  all  he  requires  and  reached  the  end  of 
the  stream,  he  then  returns  up  to  his  hiding-place  under  some 
root  or  tree  two  or  three  miles  up  the  water.  In  going  up  the 
otter  comes  very  frequently  out  of  the  water,  sometimes  climbing 
up  the  bank  and  sometimes  walking  along  the  beds  of  shingle 
and  gravel  which  occur  in  his  way,  at  all  events  avoiding  all  the 
strong  currents,  streams,  and  waterfalls. 

February  26th. — Shot  some  hares  on  the  Calif er,  as  they  are 
not  at  all  getting  worse  yet,  though  we  generally  find  them  now 
being  in  pairs,  that  is,  within  fifty  or  one  hundred  yards  of  each 
other.  Great  flocks  of  peewits  about.  In  skinning  the  swan  I 
was  much  struck  with  the  immense  quantity  of  fat  being  all  over 
his  body.  The  quill  feathers  are  so  strong  that,  although  several 
of  them  had  been  struck  with  No.  1  shot,  it  had  not  penetrated 
through  them,  but  had  evidently  rebounded,  as  they  would  have 

*  [The  shag.— ED.] 


76 


INVERERNE. 


done  from  a  stone  wall.     Wood  would  have  been  pierced  through 
with  them. 

February  27th. — Great  numbers  of  thrushes  have  appeared 
about  the  house  for  the  last  two  days.  I  at  first  thought  that 
they  were  redwings,  from  the  flocks  in  which  they  are  seen. 


M  A  E  C  H. 

March  \.st. — Shot  wild  ducks  on  the  Loch  of  Spynie. 
Although  I  only  killed  three  mallards,  a  teal,  and  a  snipe,  I  was 
much  amused  and  interested  by  seeing  the  immense  flocks  of 
wildfowl  that  were  congregated  on  and  about  the  loch.  Mallards, 
wigeon,  teal,  pintail  ducks,  pochards,  a  few  sheldrakes,  great 
numbers  of  bald  coots  and  waterhens,  snipe,  sea-gulls,  redshanks, 
and  clouds  of  lapwings  and  curlews.  The  teal  kept  up  a  constant 
whistling  during  the  whole  day,  as  did  the  wigeon.  All  of  the 
different  ducks  were  pairing,  and  although  on  the  water  they 
appeared  to  be  in  one  confused  mass,  as  soon  as  they  rose,  I 
observed  that  they  all  flew  to  and  fro  in  pairs.  Even  in  the 
great  flights  as  they  passed  from  one  end  of  the  loch  to  the 
other,  every  flock  was  subdivided  into  pairs,  which  had  a  very 
curious  effect  in  the  air.  I  do  not  know  a  prettier  sight  than  a 
vast  number  of  waterfowl  such  as  I  saw  to-day  filling  the  water 
and  air  above  it,  and  uttering  their  various  cries.  The  coot's 
manner  of  rising  is  very  peculiar — flapping  and  rushing  along 
the  water  for  twenty  yards  before  he  gets  well  on  the  wing, 
making  a  great  noise  and  sending  the  water  in  all  directions 
around  him.  Once  on  wing  the  coot  has  a  great  resemblance  to 


78  INVERERNE. 

a  blackcock  in  manner  of  flight,  etc.  On  the  water  this  bird 
swims  very  high,  giving  one  the  idea  of  a  blackened  bladder 
floating  about.  The  wigeon,  on  the  contrary,  swims  very  flat 
and  low  in  the  water,  but  on  wing  is  quick  and  sharp  in  its 
movements.  The  teal  has  a  sudden  and  rapid,  but  unsteady 
flight. 

There  are  a  great  many  marks  of  otters  about  the  loch  at 
this  season  of  the  year.  I  conclude  that  they  find  plenty  of 
flounders  and  eels  in  the  muddy  ditches  and  canals.  The  otters 
about  Spynie  sit  in  the  rushes  on  the  small  islands  making  seats 
like  those  of  a  hare.  Eennie  caught  a  very  beautiful  pochard 
duck,  which  must  have  received  some  hurt  to  prevent  its  flying, 
although  it  was  to  all  appearance  uninjured.  It  is  in  very 
perfect  plumage,  and  does  not  seem  at  all  shy.  The  eye  of  this 
bird  is  of  a  very  peculiar  blood-red  colour,  and  has  a  very  bold 
and  fiery  appearance.  The  pochard  is  a  remarkably  heavy  bird 
for  its  size.  Captain  C.  tells  me  that  they  are  very  good  eating. 
The  wigeon  are  particularly  good  and  free  from  any  fishy  or 
weedy  flavour  on  this  loch,  owing  to  their  feeding  so  much  on 
the  grass  fields  near  the  edge  of  the  loch. 

We  started  several  hares  which  were  lying  in  perfectly  wet 
seats  some  distance  in  the  rushes.  Saw  badger  tracks  about  the 
loch.  The  keeper  catches  mallards  with  snares  made  of  a  single 
fine  wire  set  in  the  furrows  of  the  fields  near  the  water.  He 
complains  that  the  grey  crows  kill  most  of  the  young  waterfowl. 
These  crows  are  bred  on  the  adjoining  property,  but  he  intends 
to  poison  them  this  spring.  The  rooks  have  returned  to  their 
breeding-places,  and  were  very  busy  building  their  nests  to-day, 
carrying  up  sticks  from  every  direction. 

March  2nd. — The  pochard  which  I  brought  home  yesterday 
alive  is  still  tame,  and  eats  worms  fearlessly  from  the  children's 
hands.  They  gave  him  a  water  trough  with  a  quantity  of  weeds 
taken  out  of  the  burn,  which  he  appears  to  be  very  fond  of.  A 
great  many  wigeon  feeding  about  the  island ;  a  large  proportion  of 
them  seem  to  be  hens,  whereas  on  Spynie  the  greater  proportion 
seem  to  be  drakes. 


INVERERNE.  79 

March  3rd. — Immense  Hocks  of  oyster- catchers  on  the  sand- 
banks. The  pochard,  which  the  boys  have  in  a  little  yard,  is 
perfectly  tame,  taking  worms  from  their  hands.  When  it  takes 
a  worm  from  the  ground,  it  generally  washes  it  in  the  water 
before  swallowing  it.  Rennie  laid  wait  for  the  otter  again  last 
night  at  the  Moy  Burn,  but  it  seems  that  the  animal  twice 
passed  him  without  his  getting  a  shot.  The  old  man  is  not  so 
quiet  (I  suspect)  as  he  has  been.  Fine  warm  day,  though  there 
is  a  very  large  quantity  of  snow  on  the  hills,  more  than  is  usual. 

I  heard  the  long- tail  ducks  making  a  great  noise  in  the  bay 
this  afternoon.  Their  cry  sounds  more  like  some  musical  in- 
strument than  the  note  of  a  bird.  The  wood-pigeons  feed  very 
much  on  the  newly  ploughed  fields,  apparently  picking  up  the 
seeds  and  grains  that  are  exposed  by  turning  up  the  ground. 

March  kth. — Went  to  hunt  for  roe  in  Burgie  Woods,  but  we 
did  not  get  a  shot.  The  grey  crows  calling  all  day  in  the  woods ; 
great  numbers  of  golden-crested  wrens  and  of  creepers  searching 
the  fir  trees  through  the  whole  wood  for  insects.  Also  numbers 
of  bullfinches.  I  killed  a  jacksnipe  near  the  river. 

Captain  S.'s  keeper  told  me  a  curious  anecdote,  which 
strongly  displays  the  great  affection  which  birds  have  for  their 
mates.  He  had  set  some  traps  for  wild  geese  near  a  marsh  in 
Berwickshire,  but  was  prevented  looking  at  them  by  some  un- 
expected business  for  two  or  three  days.  When  he  did  look  at 
his  traps,  he  found  a  hen  grouse  caught  in  one  of  them.  The 
bird  was  not  much  injured,  and  the  cock  bird  was  close  to  her, 
and  had  brought  (to  use  the  keeper's  expression)  "  a  hatful  "  of 
small  tender  shoots  of  heather,  and  had  laid  them  down  all 
round  his  mate,  seeing  that  she  was  unable  to  move  and  search 
for  food  herself. 

I  have  known  a  cock  pigeon  come  to  feed  his  hen  when  she 
was  caught  in  a  horsehair  snare,  but  I  had  no  idea  grouse  had 
the  same  strong  attachment  to  each  other.  This  happened  in 
the  month  of  April,  when  the  grouse  would  have  been  paired  and 
preparing  to  breed. 

March  8th. — The  male  hares  have  grown  so  small  that  they 


80  INVERERNE. 

frequently  look  scarcely  larger  than  rabbits,  whereas  the  female 
hares  appear  to  be  fatter  than  at  any  time  of  the  year. 

Great  numbers  of  black-headed  gulls  both  in  the  fields  and 
on  the  bay.  In  the  fields  they  follow  every  plough  that  is  at 
work,  picking  up  the  worms  and  grubs  that  are  turned  up. 
Einged  dotterels  also  are  come  in  flocks. 

March  9th. — Went  to  Lochlee.  Saw  no  swans  or  geese, 
but  great  numbers  of  mallard,  wigeon,  and  teal,  a  few  golden- 
eyes  and  morillons,  but  was  unlucky  in  getting  few  shots.  I 
saw  tracks  of  several  roe  in  the  moss  coming  home,  but  no  ducks 
anywhere,  except  about  the  lochs.  Saw  also  two  or  three  jack- 
snipe.  The  ground  covered  with  snow  by  eight  o'clock  this 
evening.  The  hills  were  white  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  (Wind 
KE.) 

A  very  fine  drake  wigeon  which  I  killed  to-day  was  not 
nearly  in  full  plumage,  though  a  remarkably  heavy  and  large 
bird. 

March  1  Oth. — The  ground  covered  with  snow,  and  in  the 
evening  a  hard  frost.  Thousands  of  larks  and  golden  plovers  in 
the  fields,  and  a  great  many  mallards  in  the  open  pools  about 
the  island. 

All  the  wigeon  which  I  killed  this  winter  have  been  in  very 
good  condition.  The  black-backed  gulls  very  noisy  in  the  bay. 

March  12th. — From  Snowie  I  went  beyond  Milton  Brodie  to 
the  Moss  of  Erneside  to  look  for  geese,  but  saw  none.  Indeed, 
there  is  scarcely  an  acre  of  ground  in  the  whole  country  un- 
disturbed, what  with  sheep,  cattle,  men,  women,  and  herd  boys,  and 
in  all  the  low  country  there  is  not  a  safe  place  for  a  partridge  or 
other  bird  to  build  her  nest  in.  Eennie  complains  loudly  of  the 
country  being  "  quite  spoilt  by  drainage  and  improvements." 

March  1 3th. — Walked  to  Forres  and  to  the  Moy  Burn, 
where  there  were  several  otter  tracks.  As  usual  all  the  tracks 
on  the  banks  were  going  up  the  stream,  showing  that  the  animal 
does  not  leave  the  water  when  going  down  to  fish. 

March  16th. — I  walked  to-day  across  the  sandhills  as  far  as 
the  shore.  In  a  kind  of  loch  made  by  the  sea,  I  saw  a  great 


INVEREKNE,  81 

number  of  sheldrakes.  As  the  tide  left  them  they  began  feed- 
ing, walking  quickly  about  and  poking  their  bills  under  the 
grass  and  weeds  for  any  small  shells  or  marine  insects  that  they 
might  find.  This  kind  of  duck  moves  about  on  shore  with  a 
very  different  gait  to  that  of  the  common  mallard.  Instead  of 
the  waddle  of  the  mallard,  the  sheldrake  walks  about  with  a 
light  active  step  and  erect  carriage,  more  resembling  that  of  the 
wild  goose  than  any  other  bird.  Altogether  the  sheldrake  is  a 
peculiarly  handsome  and  showy  bird,  and  I  have  no  doubt  would 
with  a  little  trouble  be  made  available  in  the  poultry  yard,  as 
they  are  easily  domesticated,  although  those  killed  on  the  sea- 
shore have  a  fishy  flavour.  If  fed  on  the  same  food  as  tame 
ducks,  their  flesh  would  soon  lose  all  disagreeable  taste.  I 
saw  to-day  a  few  of  the  white-fronted  geese  pass  over  my  head. 
The  bean  goose  appears  here  regularly  as  soon  as  the  oats  are 
sown. 

March  1*7 th. — Walked  to-day  towards  Findhorn.  The  tide 
was  heavier  than  I  ever  remember  seeing  it.  A  few  wigeon 
were  about  the  bay,  and  several  mallards.  The  river  in  flood 
from  the  snow  melted  by  the  high  south-west  wind,  which 
invariably  makes  the  river  rise  at  this  season. 

March  18th. — The  river  was  so  high  this  morning  that  the 
ferryman  between  this  and  Moy  could  not  cross,  which  prevented 
my  going  to  Lochlee  as  I  had  intended  doing. 

March  19th. — A  fine,  warm  day.  Went  to  Lochlee,  where 
we  saw  great  numbers  of  mallards,  wigeon,  and  teal,  several 
badger  tracks  along  the  tracks  in  the  heather,  etc.,  and  along  the 
side  of  the  lochs.  Otter  tracks  along  the  burn. 

March  20th. — Fished  in  the  river  and  caught  a  number  of 
sea-trout  from  1  Ib.  to  ^  Ib.  each ;  some  of  them  in  very  good 
condition.  A  large  trout  of  4  Ib.  rose  to  my  fly  two  or  three 
times  without  taking,  so  I  put  on  a  small  black  midge,  and  he 
took  it  immediately,  and  after  some  trouble  I  killed  him.  The 
best  fly  at  this  season  in  the  Findhorn  is  a  crimson  body  silver 
twist  black  hackle  and  wigeon  or  teal  wing.  The  sea-trout  here 
at  this  season  certainly  take  this  fly  in  preference  to  any  other 

F 


82  INVERERNE. 

that  I  can  find.  I  saw  a  badger  track  near  the  sea  to-day  in  a 
place  certainly  three  or  four  miles  from  any  cover  or  hole  inhabited 
by  these  animals.  They  seem  to  be  great  wanderers  at  this  time 
of  year. 

March  22nd. — In  the  evening,  waited  for  ducks  near  the 
river.  Killed  two  wigeon ;  the  drake  still  not  in  full  plumage. 
Killed  some  fresh-run  sea-trout  in  the  morning.  Fish  have 
more  instinct  than  we  give  them  credit  for.  I  saw  a  trout 
to-day  (about  six  inches  long)  that  had  been  left  in  a  small 
pool  by  a  rise  of  the  river  making  its  way  over  the  dry  stones 
over  a  ridge  that  separated  the  pool  it  was  in  from  the  river,  the 
distance  being  a  full  yard.  When  it  saw  us,  the  trout  imme- 
diately turned  itself  round  and  wriggled  back  into  the  pool  it 
had  come  from.  This  seems  so  very  extraordinary  a  story  that 
I  should  be  almost  afraid  of  telling  it  to  any  person  ;  nevertheless 
it  is  true. 

The  duck's  bill  is  a  very  curious  and  perfect  piece  of 
"  mechanism."  The  end  is  full  of  the  most  delicate  nerves,  with 
which  the  bird  can  discover  the  small  worms,  etc.  that  it  preys 
on  under  the  mud.  The  end  of  the  woodcock  and  curlew  are 
furnished  in  the  same  manner,  but  apparently  not  so  completely 
as  the  duck ;  whereas  the  bill  of  the  oyster-catcher  is  as  hard 
as  ivory  at  the  tip,  the  bird  using  it  more  for  breaking  open 
shell-fish  than  for  digging  in  the  mud. 

E[ennie]  tells  me  that  it  is  a  most  amusing  sight  to  see  an  old 
otter  teach  her  young  ones  to  fish.  An  old  otter  (accompanied 
by  a  couple  of  young  ones  when  fishing  in  a  burn  or  river)  on 
catching  a  good-sized  fish  carries  it  to  the  bank  and  gives  a  loud, 
shrill  kind  of  cry  between  a  whistle  and  a  blowing  noise.  The 
young  ones  immediately  hasten  up,  tumbling  over  each  other  in 
their  eagerness  to  get  to  the  fish.  The  quickest  takes  hold  of  it, 
and  then  they  commence  tugging  and  pulling  at  it  like  two 
puppies  at  a  bone.  At  last  the  old  one  interferes  and  drives 
away  one  of  the  young  ones.  She  then  continues  her  fishing, 
and  generally  soon  catches  some  more  prey.  I  see  the  otter 
tracks  very  much  about  the  small  pools  at  the  end  of  the  river, 


INVEREENE.  83 

where  they  appear  to  hunt  for  flounders,  etc.  left  by  the  tide. 
The  tracks  that  we  see  are  almost  invariably  going  up  the  river, 
showing  that  the  animal  keeps  the  course  of  the  stream  in  her 
downward  course,  but  on  coming  up  frequently  leaves  the  water 
to  go  a  few  yards  along  the  bank.  They  often,  too,  take  a  short 
cut  overland  from  one  bend  of  the  river  to  another  when  return- 
ing after  their  night's  fishing. 

March  27th. — I  saw  some  large  flocks  of  geese  coming  into 
the  bay  this  evening.  The  number  of  gulls,  sandpipers,  peewits, 
etc.  is  quite  incredible.  Fished  in  the  river  and  caught  several 
sea  trout,  some  fresh  run,  others  lean  and  bad ;  also  a  few  yellow 
trout. 

March  28th. — A  cold,  sleety  day,  and  the  fields  even  about 
the  house  covered  with  snow,  and  quite  white  in  the  evening. 
(Wind  N.E.) 

The  golden  plovers  which  I  now  see  are  becoming  black  on 
the  breast. 

March  29th. — Walked  to-day  seven  or  eight  miles  eastwards 
in  hopes  of  seeing  geese,  but  found  none.  Killed  some  mallards, 
snipe,  etc.  Curlews  in  large  flocks  in  the  fields.  Much  snow  on 
the  hills. 

March  30th. — Cold,  sleet,  and  snow.  The  hills  as  much 
covered  with  snow  as  they  have  been  all  the  "winter.  Six  swans 
came  into  the  bay  this  evening,  and  near  dusk  flew  westwards 
towards  Lochlee.  Some  brent  geese  and  great  numbers  of 
wigeon  and  mallard.  The  latter  appear  to  have  been  driven 
down  again  from  the  high  ground.  It  is  observable  that  the 
wigeon  in  the  bay  here  are  seldom  in  such  good  and  forward 
plumage  as  those  which  I  see  in  the  fresh-water  lakes,  or  on  the 
coast  of  the  more  exposed  parts  of  the  Firth.  It  is  singular 
where  all  the  grey  geese  (usually  so  numerous  at  this  season)  are 
this  year. 

Rooks  have  eggs,  as  I  see  the  shells  under  their  nests  of 
eggs  that  have  been  broken. 

March  3 1st. — In  the  bay  to-day — mallard,  sheldrake,  wigeon, 
brent  geese,  cormorant,  curlew,  oyster-catcher,  whimbrel,  redshank, 


84 


INVERERNE. 


ringed  dotterel,  and  large  flights  of  different  sandpipers,  etc.  I 
observed  a  peculiarity  in  the  flight  of  the  oyster-catchers  and 
whimbrels.  Large  flocks  of  these  birds  were  constantly  alighting 
on  a  small  island  near  where  I  was  concealed.  The  birds  in- 
variably flew  down  wind  to  sixty  or  eighty  yards  to  the  leeward 
of  the  spot  on  which  they  intended  to  pitch,  and  then  turning 
round  flew  back  against  the  wind  and  alighted  with  their  heads 
to  windward.  Of  the  hundreds  that  were  on  the  island,  not  one 
pitched  in  any  other  manner.  The  snow  and  rough  weather  seem 
to  have  driven  all  the  grey  geese  southwards  again.  All  the 
birds  perfectly  understand  the  alarm  note  of  the  carrion  crow, 
and  I  often  lose  a  shot  by  these  birds  giving  notice  of  the  presence 
of  an  enemy  as  they  fly  overhead. 


A  P  K  I  L. 

April  2nd. — Cold,  snowy  day.  Wind  NJE.  A  larger  flock 
of  brent  geese  in  the  bay. 

At  this  season  the  salmon  and  trout  appear  to  lie  in  the  dead 
water  of  a  pool,  or  quite  at  the  tail  of  the  stream  so  as  to  be  out 
of  the  strength  of  the  run,  not  having  the  same  power  of  resisting 
the  water  as  they  have  in  the  warmer  weather.  Cold  as  the 
water  is,  however,  they  take  a  fly  that  suits  them,  though 
certainly  there  are  no  living  flies  to  be  had  by  then. 

The  field  mice  shut  up  the  entrances  of  their  holes  during 
the  cold  weather. 

April  4:th. — Showers  from  the  west,  but  no  break  in  the 
snow  on  the  hills.  The  water-ouzels  have  entirely  disappeared 
from  the  burn  near  the  sea,  having  probably  gone  farther  up  the 
country  to  breed. 

April  6th. — The  boys  found  some  rooks'  eggs  and  peewits' 


86  INVERERNE. 

eggs.  The  latter  birds  seem  to  commence  several  nests  before 
they  determine  on  laying  their  eggs  in  anyone,  as  I  frequently  see 
three  or  four  nests  begun  all  near  each  other,  and  the  peewits  are 
far  too  quarrelsome  to  allow  of  these  being  nests  of  different  birds 
built  so  near  to  each  other.  By  the  time  that  their  four  eggs  are 
laid,  they  generally  collect  a  considerable  quantity  of  straw  roots 
or  sticks  in  their  nests,  appearing  to  increase  it  with  every  egg 
that  they  lay.  Some  grey  geese  were  seen  to-day.  We  caught 
a  beautiful  brent  goose  in  a  trap  on  a  grassy  island,  which  is 
generally  covered  by  the  sea  at  high  water. 

April  7th. — Aurora  borealis  very  bright  in  the  evening. 
R[ennie]  tells  me  that  he  has  frequently  fancied  that  he  has 
heard  the  aurora.  He  expressed  the  noise  as  like  the  rustling 
of  dry  leaves  in  gusts  of  wind.  From  the  opportunities  had  by 
a  man  of  his  pursuits  (i.e.,  watching  motionless  and  noiselessly 
during  the  night  for  otters,  etc.),  1  have  no  doubt  but  that  he  is 
quite  correct,  more  particularly  as  I  did  not  lead  to  the  observa- 
tion by  any  question  or  remark  of  my  own. 

April  8th. — It  blew  a  hurricane  to-day  from  the  W.N.W. 
with  cold  showers.  We  anticipated  this  kind  of  weather  from 
the  brightness  of  the  aurora  last  night.  Large  flocks  of  brent 
geese  driven  into  the  bay.  The  birds  scarcely  able  to  move 
from  the  ground  in  exposed  places.  I  saw  a  sea-gull  caught  by 
the  wind  in  the  air  and  turned  over  five  or  six  times  entirely 
before  it  could  recover  its  balance  and  get  its  head  to  wind- 
ward. 

April  9th. — Walked  eastwards  to  look  for  geese.  Saw  none. 
The  rooks'  eggs  seem  to  have  all  been  blown  out  of  the  nests 
by  the  high  wind  of  yesterday.  There  is  a  very  deep  covering 
of  snow  on  all  the  hills,  much  increased  since  yesterday.  (Wind 
(KW. 

April  12th. — I  caught  some  fine  sea  trout  in  good  condition 
in  the  river,  though  the  water  was  high  and  the  wind  in  the 
east.  Some  flocks  of  wigeon  still  remain.  We  picked  up  a  few 
plovers'  eggs.  They  lay  principally  in  the  fallow  fields,  or  in  the 
fields  where  the  oats  have  been  lately  sown  and  harrowed  in. 


INVERERNE.  87 

April  17th. — To-day  being  a  soft  and  rainy  clay,  immense 
numbers  of  wild  geese  arrived  from  southwards,  brought  north- 
wards by  the  disappearance  of  the  snow.  These  birds  have 
arrived  much  later  this  year  than  they  usually  do,  being  pro- 
bably delayed  by  the  long  continuance  of  winter  and  frost. 
There  are  large  flocks  of  the  bean  goose,  known  by  their  dark 
coloured  heads  and  necks.  The  large  light  coloured  grey  geese 
remain  in  small  Hocks  of  six  to  twelve,  and  are  easily  dis- 
tinguished from  the  other  geese  by  their  lighter  colour  and 
slower  movements.  They  frequent  clover  and  green  wheat  fields 
more  than  the  new  sown  grain. 

The  arrival  of  the  geese  to-day  was  worth  seeing.  An 
immense  body  of  300  or  400  birds  arrived  first  in  one  flock. 
As  soon  as  they  were  above  the  sands,  every  bird  appeared  to 
commence  calling,  making  together  a  noise  that  first  attracted 
our  attention,  though  we  were  nearly  a  mile  from  the  place. 
After  flying  to  and  fro  a  short  time  above  the  bay,  they  broke 
off  into  different  companies,  and  dispersed  through  the  country 
looking  for  feeding-places.  We  could  see  the  flocks  as  they 
wheeled  round  and  round  different  new  sown  fields  looking- 
for  places  to  alight.  All  the  afternoon  fresh  flocks  came  in. 

April  ~L8th. — Though  the  snow  is  entirely  washed  away 
here  and  on  the  lower  hills,  the  rain  of  yesterday  must 
have  been  snow  on  Wevis,  as  it  is  entirely  covered  with  a 
new  coating.  Blackbirds,  thrushes,  and  hedge-sparrows  have 
eggs.  I  rode  up  to  the  heronry  to-day.^  The  number  of  herons 
is  very  much  diminished,  but  the  rooks  have  increased  very 
much.  The  keeper  of  Sir  W.  Gumming,  who  I  saw  up  there, 
tells  me  that  he  had  been  climbing  to  the  jackdaws'  nests  (these 
birds  breed  in  great  numbers  in  the  rocks  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river  to  the  herons).  The  jackdaws  had  no  eggs  of  their 
own  yet,  but  he  showed  me  a  whole  handful  of  the  shells  of 
herons'  eggs  which  he  had  found  about  the  nests  of  the  jackdaws, 
these  birds  evidently  being  in  the  habit  of  constantly  plundering 
the  nests  of  their  neighbours,  and  of  carrying  off  the  eggs  to  eat 

*  Heronry  now  extinct.  —  See  "Sport  in  Moray,  1882,"  p.  52'. 


8  8  IK  VERERNE. 

them  at  their  leisure.  There  were  a  great  many  kestrel  hawks 
flying  about  the  rocks  near  the  river.  We  saw  six  or  eight 
at  once  in  several  places.  Amongst  the  rooks  we  saw  one  that 
was  nearly  white. 

April  19^. — To-day  Eennie  and  myself  killed  four  grey 
geese.  The  strength  and  watchfulness  of  these  birds  in  this 
country,  where  they  are  so  much  harassed,  makes  them  very 
difficult  to  kill.  Some  that  we  killed  were  feeding  on  new  sown 
peas,  and  others  on  new  sown  barley.  There  seems  to  be  a 
great  number  of  them  just  now  in  the  country. 

April  20th. — I  saw  a  barn  owl  sitting  on  a  tree  overhanging 
one  of  the  highest  cliffs  of  the  river. 

The  kestrel  hawks  are  very  numerous.  We  saw  one  fly  into 
a  tree  calling  loudly,  and  carrying  something,  a  small  bird  or 
mouse,  in  its  beak.  Presently  another  hawk  of  the  same  kind 
came,  and  the  first  bird  immediately  gave  its  prey  up  to  the 
last  comer,  who  carried  it  off.  The  bird  who  brought  the  mouse 
carried  it  in  its  beak,  but  the  one  who  received  it  carried  it  off 
in  its  claws. 

April  23rd. — I  went  again  to  look  for  wild  geese,  but 
though  we  saw  a  great  number  and  several  large  flocks  evidently 
newly  arrived,  searching  over  the  country  for  good  feeding- 
places,  we  could  not  get  a  shot.  One  time  when  we  nearly  had 
succeeded,  the  flock  took  alarm  at  the  cries  of  some  rooks 
who  saw  us  and  flew  off.  I  have  more  than  once  lost  a  chance 
at  geese  by  these  birds  giving  alarm.  The  flights  of  geese  as 
they  pass  over  have  a  very  picturesque  effect — flying  in  the 
shape  of  a  V,  with  generally  a  large  bird  at  the  head  or  point  of 
the  V,  and  signalling  to  each  other  with  an  occasional  cry. 
When  about  to  alight  they  break  their  rank  and  collect  in  a  con- 
fused mass.  When  they  arrive  near  their  resting-place  on  the 
sands,  the  whole  flock  frequently  dart  off  in  different  directions, 
shooting  through  the  air  and  performing  evolutions  that  one 
would  scarcely  suspect  so  heavy  a  bird  could  accomplish.  Beans 
and  peas  seem  their  favourite  food. 

April  24th. — Wild  goose  shooting  omnium  rerum  incertissima. 


INVEEERNE.  80 

After  labouring  half  the  day,  when  the  whole  flock  were  all  but 
within  shot  of  us,  two  large  gulls  came  sailing  over  our  heads, 
and  seeing  us,  they  hovered  over  us,  uttering  cries  of  alarm 
louder  and  louder,  till  the  geese  took  fright  and  flew  off. 
Another  chance  I  lost  to-day  from  some  curlews  giving  the 
alarm.  However,  I  killed  one  fine  goose.  Kestrel  and  grey 
crows'  eggs. 

April  26th. — Saw  two  sand-martins  to-day;  the  first  of  the 
swallow  kind  that  I  have  seen  this  year.  I  also  heard  some 
terns  calling  in  the  bay.  A  great  many  geese  flying  to  and  fro 
to  the  new  sown  fields. 

April  29th. — In  the  fir  wood  beyond  Kinloss  we  found  the 
nest  of  the  long-eared  owl,  with  one  young  bird  above  half-grown, 
with  the  brightest  yellow  eyes,  and  one  rotten  egg.  The  owl  had 
apparently  taken  possession  of  an  old  crow's  nest  on  the  top  of  a 
fir  tree,  in  rather  an  open  place  of  the  wood.  I  saw  a  house 
swallow  to-day. 

It  is  curious  how  very  unlike  each  other  are  the  eggs  of 
some  birds.  The  grey  crow,  for  instance,  whose  nest  we  also 
found  in  the  same  wood  with  four  eggs. 

April  30th. — A  stormy,  wild  day.  The  wind  in  every 
quarter.  We  caught  a  number  of  trout.  The  wild  geese 
appear  to  have  mostly  gone  away.  I  saw  but  very  few  about 
the  bay  to-day.  The  fieldfares  have  not  yet  all  gone. 


MAY. 

May  1st. — A  stormy,  thundery  day.  Swallows  as  well  as 
martins  are  becoming  tolerably  common.  The  geese  generally 
leave  here  about  the  3rd  or  4th  May.  From  the  quantity  of 
snow  on  the  hills  to  the  north  this  season,  they  should  naturally 
remain  longer,  but  I  have  seen  very  few  for  the  last  two  or  three 
days. 

To-day  is  the  first  day  on  which  I  have  seen  any  quantity  of 
nies  on  the  river,  but  all  the  morning  the  streams  were  covered 
with  a  kind  of  grey-blue  gnat,  which  the  trout  were  feeding  on 
most  greedily. 

It  is  remarkable  that  the  insectivorous  birds  appear  to  be  the 
first  to  have  eggs,  such  as  the  thrush,  blackbird,  robin,  hedge- 
sparrow,  when  the  chaffinch,  greenfinch,  and  the  different  bunt- 
ings, etc.,  have  not  yet  commenced  laying,  although  busy  build- 
ing. I  shot  a  brown  owl  to-night. 

May  3rd. — In  the  woods.  Saw  the  cuckoo  for  the  first  time 
this  year.  Also  crossbills  in  pairs,  siskins,  etc.  etc. 

May  1th. — We  heard  the  land-rail  to-day  for  the  first  time, 
being  a  week  after  the  usual  time. 

May  8th. — The  land-rails  begin  to  be  numerous.  Swifts  as 
well  as  the  other  swallows  and  martins  appear.  I  also  saw 
several  wheatears  to-day,  and  whitethroats. 


INVERERNE.  9 1 

May  9th. — Rainy  mist  from  the  east.  Great  numbers  of 
martins,  etc.  The  common  river  flies,  such  as  the  stone  fly,  etc., 
are  very  backward  in  appearing  this  year.  Mallards  in  flocks, 
the  ducks  beginning  to  set.  The  oyster-catchers  are  now  in 
larger  flocks  than  at  any  other  season. 

May  10th. — Caught  some  fine  sea  trout  with  small  black 
gnats.  I  killed  some  land-rails  to-day.  The  land-rail  is  a 
curious  mixture  of  cunning  and  simplicity,  at  one  time  gliding  in 
the  most  hidden  arid  cunning  manner  through  the  grass,  so  as  to 
appear  more  like  a  weasel  than  a  bird,  and  then  standing  upright 
within  a  few  yards  of  its  pursuer,  uttering  its  loud  and  hard 
croak.  I  have  seen  one  standing  actually  between  the  legs  of  a 
cow  croaking  as  loud  as  it  could,  and  seeming  perfectly  to  dis- 
tinguish the  cow  from  its  dreaded  enemy  the  dog. 

May  12th. — W.  Stuart  caught  a  salmon  of  22  Ib.  ;  a  very 
rare  fish  in  this  river,  the  general  size  of  salmon  being  from  7 
to  10  Ib.  in  the  Findhorn.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  now  very 
beautiful,  the  bird-cherry  and  other  flowering  shrubs  being  in 
full  bloom.  Corncrakes  numerous. 

May  17 th. — Wind  N.E.  Cold  and  wintry.  The  water  very 
cold.  Fly  fishing  to-day  I  caught  a  martin,  who  dashed  at  the 
artificial  fly.  I  do  not  understand  why  the  oyster-catchers  remain 
in  large  flocks  about  the  shore,  as  1  should"  suppose  that  they 
must  now  be  laying.  Young  thrushes  and  robins  have  already 
left  the  nest.  P.  Gumming  dined  here.  The  mountains  have  as 
white  a  covering  of  snow  as  they  have  had  all  the  winter. 

May  18th. — Found  a  partridge's  nest  with  five  eggs  in  a 
clover-field.  The  nest,  etc.,  carefully  covered  with  dry  grass. 

May  19th. — I  find  that  the  large  black-backed  gull,  as  well 
as  the  smaller  kinds,  feed  on  grain  whenever  they  find  it  in  the 
fields,  also  on  turnip. 

May  21st. — Harry  caught  a  grilse  to-day  of  2^  Ib. 

May  23rd. — The  land-rails  already  have  several  eggs,  as 
have  the  whitethroats  and  other  late-coming  birds. 

May  2oth. — Left  Invererne  for  Nairn. 

May    26th. — At   Nairn   to-day   the    fisherman    found   a   fine 


92  INVERERNE. 

northern  diver  drowned  in  the  salmon  stake  nets.  It  appears 
that  this  is  not  a  rare  occurrence  at  this  season.  The  weight 
appeared  at  least  16  Ib.  I  saw  a  black  guillemot  on  the 
water. 

May  28th. — Walked  to-day  to  Lochlee.  We  saw  large  nests 
made  by  the  coots  and  dabchicks.  They  pile  up  a  great 
quantity  of  rushes  in  shallow  water  amongst  the  weeds,  till  they 
have  made  a  strong  platform.  We  saw  a  large  brood  of  young 
ducks  following  their  mother. 

May  30th. — As  the  tide  begins  to  ebb,  great  numbers  of 
terns  are  seen  flying  slowly  (against  the  wind)  along  the  water 
edge,  and  dropping  like  a  stone  into  the  shallow  water.  After 
remaining  some  moments  under  the  water,  they  appear  again 
with  a  sand-eel  in  the  bill.  They  seem  to  strike  with  the  most 
unerring  aim,  and  the  little  fish  has  always  the  mark  of  the 
bird's  bill  just  behind  the  head.  I  have  seen  the  terns  carrying 
the  sand-eels  three  or  four  miles  inland  to  their  young.  Their 
quickness  in  catching  their  prey  must  be  very  great,  as  nothing 
is  quicker  or  more  active  in  eluding  pursuit  than  the  sand-eel. 
Sometimes  (indeed  frequently)  the  terns  pursue  their  prey  in  deep 
water  several  hundred  yards  from  the  shore. 


NAIRN. 

JUNE. 

June  1st. — In  the  woods  at  Daltra  I  saw  several  pairs  of 
crossbills,  but  could  not  find  any  nest,  though  I  have  no  doubt 
that  they  do  breed  here,  from  my  seeing  them  at  all  seasons.  I 
also  saw  redstarts,  siskins,  a  great  many  woodcocks,  etc.  On 
Loch  Belivat  we  found  immense  numbers  of  the  black-headed 
gulls  breeding  amongst  the  rushes  on  the  islands,  and  even  upon 
the  branches  of  some  willow  trees  at  the  height  of  several  feet 
from  the  ground ;  in  fact,  wherever  could  be  found  anything  to 
support  a  nest,  one  was  placed.  The  variety  of  colour  in  the 
eggs  was  very  striking.  Every  shade  of  mottled-brown  and 
green.  Three  is  the  number  which  each  bird  lays.  Some  had 
hatched.  The  young  birds  are  beautifully  marked,  like  tortoise- 
shell  more  than  anything  else.  The  smell  on  the  islands  was 
quite  overpowering  from  the  quantity  of  accumulated  dung,  etc. 
of  the  birds,  sending  up  an  odour  like  an  uncleaned  fowl-house. 
There  were  a  great  many  mallards  on  the  loch,  but  no  ducks,  the 
latter  having  either  broods  of  young  by  this  time,  or  being  em- 
ployed in  sitting  on  eggs.  Also  a  few  drake  teal  were  flying 
about  the  edges  of  the  water.  Coots  and  all  other  birds  seemed 
quite  banished  from  the  rushes  by  the  confusion  and  clamour 
of  the  gulls.  The  eggs  of  the  latter  are  very  large  in  proportion 


94  NAIRN. 

to  the  size  of  the  bird.  They  are  as  good  as  plovers'  eggs,  but 
more  opaque  in  the  white  when  boiled. 

June  sth. — At  Lochlee  yesterday  I  see  the  coots  are  still 
building,  making  the  most  wonderfully  large  heaps  of  rushes,  etc. 
for  their  nests.  I  shot  a  swift  walking  home.  The  bird,  which 
was  not  quite  dead,  struck  its  short  strong  claws  through  the 
finger  of  the  boy  who  picked  it  up. 

June  *llh. — Walked  to  Lochlee  to  put  in  a  few  hooks 
baited  with  small  trout,  in  order  to  see  if  any  fish  take  them. 
The  people  here  say  that  there  are  no  fish  in  the  loch,  but  as 
otters  are  often  seen  there,  I  fancy  that  there  must  be  some 
kind  of  fish. 

June  8th. — I  found  on  my  lines  in  Lochlee  some  very  large 
eels  of  4  and  3^  Ib.  weight.  We  also  took  some  eggs  of  the 
bald  coot.  The  nests  of  these  birds,  though  very  large,  are  more 
like  floating  rafts  than  fixtures.  One  we  found  was  attached  to 
a  floating  branch  that  had  fallen  into  the  water,  and  though  from 
the  low  state  of  the  water  just  now  the  branch  and  nest  were 
grounded  on  a  shallow,  on  the  least  rise  of  the  loch  they  must 
have  been  afloat.  We  also  found  a  teal's  nest  with  eight  eggs  in 
a  small  tuft  of  heather  standing  like  an  island,  just  large  enough 
to  hold  the  nest  in  the  midst  of  a  wet  place.  The  heather  was 
high,  and  the  nest  and  eggs  were  entirely  concealed.  If  a  dog 
had  not  frightened  the  bird  off,  we  should  have  never  found  it. 
Nothing  could  be  more  neat  and  warm  than  the  nest,  care- 
fully lined  as  it  was  with  beautiful  down,  and  arched  over  with 
heather  and  long  grass. 

June  10  th. — Went  to  Lochlee  to  put  in  eel  lines.  The 
wind  so  rough  that  we  had  difficulty  in  doing  so  properly.  A 
pair  of  hooded  crows  near  the  loch  seem  to  bring  eggs  of  all 
kinds  to  a  certain  spot  near  the  water.  I  find  shells  of  partridge, 
wild  duck,  and  many  other  eggs. 

June  llth. — Took  up  lines  at  Lochlee.  Several  eels,  but 
many  of  the  hooks  broken  from  getting  into  weeds,  etc.  Crows 
near  Lochlee  seem  to  have  fallen  on  a  partridge's  nest,  as  I 
constantly  see  fresh  shells  brought  now. 


NAIRN.  95 

June  15th. — In  the  pools  near  the  river  I  see  a  number  of 
worms,  having  exactly  the  appearance  of  living  horse-hair,  some 
light-coloured  and  others  black.  There  is  a  common  supposition 
that  these  worms  are  nothing  but  horse-hair  come  into  life  from  a 
long  immersion  in  water.  What  they  really  are  it  is  difficult  to  say. 
To  the  naked  eye,  both  extremities  are  alike  with  neither  head  nor 
tail.  If  kept  for  some  time  out  of  water,  they  become  quite  dry 
and  apparently  lifeless,  but  on  being  put  into  the  water  again  they 
immediately  (or  in  a  short  time)  become  as  lively  as  ever.^ 

The  small  river  of  Nairn  is  very  high  and  dirty,  and  the  sea 
for  a  considerable  distance  out  very  much  discoloured  with  the 
river  water.  This  arises  in  a  great  measure  from  the  fresh  water 
being  lighter  than  the  salt,  and  not  mixing  immediately,  but  re- 
maining on  the  surface.  I  observe  this  particularly  about  the 
last  hour  of  the  flow  of  the  tide,  when  it  begins  to  be  rather 
slack,  as  then  the  river  runs  strongly  outwards,  while  there  is  a 
rapid  current  in  a  contrary  direction  underneath  the  surface  made 
by  the  tide  running.  One  sees  the  lighter  sticks,  corks,  etc. 
floating  rapidly  one  way,  while  weed  and  heavier  substances 
which  keep  nearer  to  the  bottom  keep  crossing  them  in  their 
passage  up  the  river,  apparently  moving  against  the  stream. 

June  16th. — Walked  to  Lochlee  with  Freebairn.  Found 
that  the  hooded  crows  had  ta.ken  all  the  eggs  from  the  teal's 
nest  which  we  had  seen  there  last  week. 

June  18th. — Constant  rain,  but  warm  days  intervening,  and 
an  immense  growth  in  fields  and  gardens. 

The  eels  in  Lochlee  seem  innumerable.  They  probably 
have  never  been  disturbed  nor  killed,  excepting  by  otters  or 
herons,  the  country  people  here  having  a  great  prejudice  against 
eating  or  even  touching  them. 

The  Nairn  came  down  (like  the  Findhorn  and  other  mountain 
streams)  in  a  moment  one  day  this  week,  rising  several  feet  at 
once.  A  flood  of  this  kind  carries  out  all  the  slimy  green  weed, 
etc.  that  collects  in  the  pools  of  the  river.  The  sea  for  some 
distance  out  is  quite  muddy  from  the  river  water  during  a  flood. 
*  See  "Sport  in  Moray,  1882,"  p.  155,  footnote. 


96  NAIRN. 

June  25th. — I  rowed  to-day  to  the  "old  bar"  about  four  or 
five  miles  from  here.  Found  some  eggs  of  tern  and  the  lesser 
tern.  Numbers  of  these  birds  were  flying  about,  but  the  eggs 
are  so  very  similar  in  colour  to  the  stones  amongst  which  they 
are  laid,  that  it  is  not  easy  to  find  them.  Going  there  we  put 
out  a  line  for  flounders  and  took  it  up  on  returning,  catching 
about  fifty  flounders,  a  gurnet,  and  a  large  cod.  The  latter  was 
long  and  lean  as  an  eel,  and  had  lost  one  eye.  The  men  took  it 
to  bait  their  crab-traps  with,  as  it  was  quite  unfit  for  use  in  any 
other  way.  Immense  numbers  of  flounders  are  left  at  low  water 
in  the  pools  about  the  bar. 

June  28th. — Went  to  Cromarty  rocks  to  shoot  rock-pigeons, 
but  saw  very  few.  Great  numbers  of  goats  playing  about  on  the 
very  edges  of  precipices.  A  few  gurnets  rose  at  the  white-fly, 
with  which  we  fished  going  across. 

June  29th. — Went  to-day  with  Freebairn  to  the  "old  bar" 
to  fish  for  flounders.  We  caught  a  great  number,  and  one  small 
turbot.  Found  also  some  terns  and  ringed  dotterels'  eggs.  Shot 
a  guillemot  on  the  way.  We  caught  on  the  lines  some  gurnets, 
as  well  as  flounders.  The  gurnet  takes  sand-eels  better  than  any 
other  bait.  The  flounders,  when  opened,  are  full  of  small  shell- 
fish always.  The  sand-eels  are  caught  in  great  numbers  on  the 
sandbanks,  which  are  left  bare  by  the  ebb  of  the  spring  tides. 
The  people  procure  them  by  turning  up  the  sand  to  the  depth  of 
about  three  inches. 


NAIRN.  9*7 

July  Sth. — Went  to  set  lines  in  Lochlee.  Saw  there  a 
flock  of  pochards,  several  broods  of  teal  and  ducks,  and  tracks 
of  small  and  large  badgers  about  the  wet  ground  near  the  loch. 
I  shot  a  fine  roebuck  coming  home.  He  had  lost  one  horn,  other- 
wise he  would  have  had  a  very  handsome  head. 

July  10th. — The  young  wild  ducks  are  now  just  ready  to  fly. 

July  12th. — The  herring  boats  all  go  out  to-day.  The  Nairn 
boats  engage  to  sell  all  their  fish  to  fishcurers  at  Helmsdale, 
etc.,  and  they  therefore  remain  from  home  six  weeks,  putting 
in  at  Helmsdale  every  Saturday  night  till  the  following  Monday. 
There  are  about  sixty-five  boats  belonging  to  Nairn.  Each  boat 
costs,  with  rigging,  nets,  etc.,  about  £26.  The  crew  in  each  con- 
sists of  five  hands.  The  fishermen  have  a  great  prejudice 
against  any  boat  being  manned  entirely  by  one  family,  in  case 
of  any  accident  happening. 

July  1 6th. — Walked  to  a  wood  three  miles  west  of  this.  Saw 
some  roe  and  many  marks  of  foxes.  Remains  of  fowls,  ducks, 
etc.  about  the  mouths  of  the  holes.  I  saw  also  a  woodcock. 

August  5th. — I  see  that  the  wild  ducks  have  their  crops  quite 
full  of  the  seeds  of  different  grasses,  etc.  A  fisherman  brought  me 
to-day  a  most  extraordinary  fish — length,  3  feet  6  inches  ;  breadth, 
6  inches  (vertically),  and  perfectly  flat,  not  horizontally  like  a 
flounder,  but  vertically.  Colour — silver-blue,  with  a  beautiful 
transparent  fin  of  a  rose  colour  running  the  whole  length  of 
its  back,  and  broad  fan-like  tail,  consisting  of  a  transparent 
rose-coloured  membrane.  The  fish,  too,  had  a  peculiar  power 
of  elongating  its  head,  which  lengthened  exactly  like  a  telescope. 
The  oldest  fishermen  say  that  they  never  saw  or  heard  of  such  a 
fish  before.^ 

August  18th. — Saw  to-day  in  a  wood  near  Lochlee  the 
marks  of  where  two  roebucks  had  either  been  fighting  or  chasing 
each  other  round  and  round  a  small  tree.  The  ground  was 
beaten  in  a  ring  round  the  tree,  as  if  an  animal  had  been  tied  to 
the  tree  and  had  been  endeavouring  to  get  away. 

September  10th. — Mr  Dunbar,  of  Bonar  Bridge,  had  brought 

*  See  "  Sport  in  Moray,  1882,"  p.  201. 

a 


98  NAIRN. 

to  him  to-day  a  white- tailed  eagle — perfectly  white — a  male 
bird,  and  apparently  not  white  from  age.  I  saw  several  eagles 
about  the  high  mountains  in  that  country,  ptarmigan  also,  and 
some  deer.  The  stags'  horns  this  year  are  by  no  means  remark- 
able for  size.  The  spring  was  backward,  and  they  had  not  good 
feeding  at  the  season  when  they  were  getting  their  new  horns. 

September  16th. — Keturned  home;  the  weather  being  too  bad 
for  a  longer  season. 

Saw  wigeon  about  Lochlee,  the  first  that  I  have  seen  this 
season. 

October  19th. — Large  flock  of  wild  geese  passing  from  the 
north  southwards.  Also  one  swan  on  Lochlee.  Last  year  the 
first  geese  that  I  saw  were  on  the  12th  of  this  month.  Harry 
killed  a  godwit  yesterday  and  a  purre. 

I  saw  a  peregrine  in  chase  of  a  wild  duck  to-day,  the  hawk 
endeavouring  to  keep  under  the  duck  always  to  prevent  her 
getting  to  the  water.  The  birds  went  at  a  tremendous  rate, 
till  I  lost  sight  of  them  in  the  distance. 

November  1st. — Saw  snow-birds  to-day  for  first  time.  Large 
flocks  of  siskins  in  the  woods.  The  hares  seem  to  have  collected 
very  much  in  the  low  grounds. 

December  *lth. — Wild  swans  on  Lochlee,  and  a  greater 
number  of  wigeon,  etc.  than  usual.  Also  a  great  deal  of 
aurora,  all  foretelling  rough  or  frosty  weather. 

December  13th. — Great  number  of  wild  ducks,  etc.  in 
the  loch,  but  the  weather  is  so  fine  that  they  all  go  to  sea 
as  soon  as  disturbed.  The  black-cocks  wander  very  much, 
and  when  there  is  no  wind,  are  always  found  on  the  tops  of 
the  trees. 

December  25th. — The  weather  for  some  days  past  has  been 
quiet,  but  severe  frost.  Lochlee  to-day  is  entirely  frozen  over, 
and  the  wild  ducks,  wigeon,  etc.  are  all  about  the  salt  water  bay 
at  the  bar.  There  are  a  great  many  black  game,  particularly 
cocks,  come  down  to  the  lower  grounds.  Very  few  woodcocks  as 
yet,  and  scarcely  a  snipe  to  be  seen. 


1848. 

January  8th. — Thaw  in  the  morning,  but  severe  frost  in 
afternoon.  The  wood -pigeons  (in  feeding  on  turnips)  do  not 
dig  into  the  root  at  all,  or  even  into  the  heart  of  the  green, 
but  eat  off  the  edges  of  the  leaves,  doing  really  no  mischief. 
The  rooks  dig  great  holes  into  the  roots  themselves. 

February  9th. — When  the  river  is  flooded,  or  much  filled 
with  floating  ice,  the  otters  here  take  to  the  small  ditches 
and  springs  which  remain  unfrozen,  to  look  for  eels,  and  hunt 
up  and  down  these  places  to  great  distances  from  their  usual 
abode. 

I  often  observe  that  when  I  kill  a  single  duck  out  of  a  flock, 
after  a  short  time  one  of  the  flock  (probably  the  mate  of  the 
dead  bird)  returns  to  near  the  place  where  it  last  saw  the  dead 


1'KRKGIUXK. 


NAIRN.  101 

one,  and  appears  to  look  most  anxiously  for  it.  The  same  thing 
is  observable  with  swans.  If  I  kill  one  out  of  a  pair  of  these 
birds,  the  remaining  one  will  not  leave  the  place,  but  remains 
hovering  about,  and  returns  constantly  to  the  dead  body  of 
its  mate. 

I  shot  a  female  pochard  to-day  (one  out  of  a  flock).  Presently 
a  drake  of  the  same  species  leaves  the  main  flock,  and  returning 
to  the  place,  hovers  and  swims  about  restlessly  and  eagerly,  look- 
ing for  his  companion. 

February  llth. — The  larks  begin  to  sing  now.  The  corn- 
buntings,  etc.  have  altered  their  spring  note  for  some  time  back. 
Eennie  caught  a  brent-goose  that  had  probably  been  wounded 
somewhere.  The  bird  is  in  high  plumage  and  health  apparently, 
and  becomes  very  tame,  feeding  fearlessly  close  to  the  children. 
I  have  observed  the  same  of  this  species  of  goose  before. 

February  26th. — Thrushes  singing  for  the  past  week.  Great 
many  geese  feeding  in  the  mosses  on  the  roots  of  a  coarse 
red-coloured  grass.  Larks  and  fieldfares  in  great  flocks. 

March  5th. — Wood-pigeons,  thrushes,  missel-thrushes,  black- 
birds, peewits,  black-headed  buntings,  etc.  etc.  have  been  utter- 
ing their  spring  notes  for  some  days  past.  The  teal  collect 
about  the  loch,  and  fly  about  a  great  deal,  whistling  constantly. 
Five  wild  swans  still  frequent  the  loch,  three  much  smaller  than 
the  other  two.  The  latter  are  companions  of  the  one  that  I 
killed  last  week.  The  frogs  are  now  spawning  in  the  ditches, 
and  the  mallards  are  in  every  pool. 

March  1 1th. — The  brent-geese  now  are  in  very  great  numbers 
on  the  seashore,  feeding  on  the  grasses  that  begin  to  grow. 
I  have  not  seen  any  swans  on  the  lochs  for  some  days. 

Bean-geese  and  white-fronted  geese  are  now  constantly  seen 
in  small  companies. 

The  badgers  seem  very  much  on  the  move  just  now,  as  I  see 
their  tracks  everywhere,  turning  up  the  ground  like  pigs,  both  in 
the  woods  and  in  the  open  grounds,  particularly  in  the  turnip 
fields. 

March  22nd. — Dabchicks  in  some   pools.      The   first  which 


102  NAIRN. 

I  have  seen.  There  are  a  few  white-fronted  geese  feeding  in 
certain  places  about  the  loch.  The  brent-geese  are  exceedingly 
numerous  on  the  grassy  banks,  which  are  left  dry  at  low  water. 
There  are  a  good  number  of  woodcocks  about  the  woods,  pro- 
bably birds  remaining  here  to  breed.  The  sheldrakes  are  also 
coming  inland. 

April  5th. — Shot  a  white-fronted  goose  at  Lochlee. 

April  13th. — The  roebucks  have  not  yet  lost  the  velvet  from 
their  horns. 

April  19th. — I  found  a  wild  duck's  nest  in  a  tuft  of  very 
high  heather  near  a  peat  moss,  with  thirteen  eggs,  apparently 
within  a  week  of  hatching.  I  broke  one  of  them  to  try.  The 
nest  placed  in  a  situation  where  it  seemed  impossible  that  the 
young  birds  could  ever  have  managed  to  crawl,  and  at  some  little 
distance  from  any  pools  of  water.  I  also  found  a  grey  crow's 
nest  with  four  eggs.  The  old  bird  caught  my  attention  by 
the  sneaking  and  quiet  way  in  which  she  new  out  of  a  thicket 
of  Scotch  firs.  I.  also  killed  a  leveret  larger  than  an  old  rabbit. 

May  3rd. — When  fishing  near  the  river  I  found  great 
numbers  of  young  eels  under  the  gravel,  my  attention  being 
first  called  to  them  by  a  Skye-terrier,  which  accompanied  me,  and 
who  employed  himself  in  turning  over  the  stones  and  eating  the 
eels  which  he  found  under  them. 

September  8th. — I  commonly  find  the  crabs  about  the  rocks 
near  Whitburn  with  their  shells  quite  soft,  having  just  cast  their 
covering  of  last  year.  On  some  occasions  the  cast  shell  is  found 
quite  whole,  even  to  the  covering  of  the  eyes  and  horns.  On  the 
10th  I  found  one  in  this  state,  the  crab  having  apparently  only 
just  finished  the  operation  of  extracting  herself,  as  she  was  living 
in  the  crevice  of  the  rock,  close  to  the  empty  shell.  What 
is  remarkable  (but  invariably  the  case),  the  animal  immediately 
on  having  cast  her  shell  increases  considerably  in  size  to  a  very 
great  degree ;  in  fact,  the  only  time  that  the  crab  has  to  grow  in 
is  almost  instantaneously  on  casting,  as  her  skin  commences 
immediately  to  harden  into  a  new  shell,  and  this  done,  all  in- 
crease of  size  is  impossible.  Before  casting,  the  flesh  of  the  crab 


NAIRN.  103 

seems  entirely  to  be  turned  into  a  watery  substance  enclosed  in  a 
tough  skin,  which  enables  her  to  draw  herself  whole  out  of  the 
shell.  Anyone  who  has  seen  a  crab  must  know  how  impossible 
it  would  be  for  the  animal  to  drag  its  legs  and  claws  through  the 
small  joints  of  these  parts,  unless  the  flesh  is  totally  changed  in 
size  and  substance.  Altogether,  the  power  of  a  crab  to  cast  its 
shell  entire  without  breaking  the  covering  of  a  single  limb  is  one 
of  the  most  extraordinary  things  in  nature. 

Almost  invariably,  a  crab,  while  her  shell  is  soft  and  helpless, 
is  protected  by  a  male  crab,  who  remains  with  her,  and  on  the 
approach  of  danger,  covers  her  with  his  body  and  claws,  and  dies 
rather  than  leave  his  helpless  charge.  Take  him  away  and  put 
him  at  a  distance  of  several  yards,  but  he  returns  immediately  to 
protect  the  helpless  female.  In  a  few  days,  however,  the  skin 
hardens  into  shell,  and  the  crab  no  longer  needs  protection. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  and  delicate  sea-shells  found  here 
is  the  patella  pellucida.  A  small  thin-shelled  limpet  that  adheres 
to  the  broad-leaved  tangle,  great  beds  of  which  grow  on  the  rocks, 
which  are  only  left  uncovered  at  very  low  tides.  After  any 
heavy  swell  or  storm,  it  is  curious  to  see  how  large  masses  of 
rock  are  floated  to  some  distance  by  the  buoyancy  of  the  sea- 
weed attached  to  them,  which  appears  to  act  the  part  of  a  kind 
of  parachute  in  the  water. 

Great  numbers  of  young  gulls  in  their  grey  plumage  are  con- 
stantly flying  to  and  fro  along  the  shore  here  now.  Also  a  few 
mallards,  teal,  and  many  kinds  of  sandpipers.  A  few  days  ago, 
six  geese  were  seen  passing  along. 

Migratory  birds,  such  as  wheatears,  whitethroats,  redstarts, 
etc.  are  very  numerous  near  the  coast,  waiting  to  depart. 

Kestrels  and  merlins  are  numerous  also.  Amongst  other 
birds  killed  by  the  boys  for  their  hawk  were  specimens  of  the 
tree-sparrow  and  rock-lark. 

In  some  spots  about  the  middle  of  September,  the  painted 
lady  butterfly  tolerably  numerous,  but  seems  to  be  confined  to 
certain  patches  of  ground. 

The  toad  catches  insects  with  extraordinary  rapidity.      Some 


104 


NAIRN. 


who  live  in  a  cask  of  water  in  the  yard  catch  the  flies  when  they 
settle  near  them.  The  toad,  on  seeing  a  fly,  creeps  up  with  great 
caution  till  within  an  inch  or  two,  and  then,  with  a  motion  so  rapid 
that  the  eye  cannot  follow  it,  the  fly  is  caught  and  swallowed. 
Apparently  the  toad  darts  out  his  tongue,  but  it  is  impossible  to 
see  exactly  how  the  fly  is  caught.  All  one  sees  is  a  rapid  open- 
ing and  shutting  of  the  toad's  mouth,  down  which  the  fly  (which 
was  an  inch  or  more  from  it)  disappears  as  if  by  magic. 

The    frogs    also  feed    on    the   flies,   but   do    not    catch   and 
swallow  them  with  the  same  wonderful  quickness. 


1849. 

[Edinburgh],  January  3rd. — In  a  poulterer's  shop  here  is  a 
fine  male  capercailzie,  which  was  killed  in  a  wood  a  few  miles 
south  of  Edinburgh. 

Mr  Dickson  (the  gunmaker)  tells  me  tha£  a  pure  white  egret 
was  killed  three  years  ago  in  Fifeshire.  Also  that  a  gerfalcon 
was  killed  on  the  Pentland  Hills  after  a  severe  storm  a  few 
years  ago. 

During  this  very  severe  weather,  our  hawks,  both  the  merlin 
and  the  Iceland  falcon,  seem  to  thrive  best  when  left  out  during 
the  night  with  no  shelter  whatever. 

January  Qtk. — Mr  Watson  (Forth  Street,  Edinburgh)  showed 
me  a  hybrid  between  the  blackcock  and  the  grouse.  This  bird 
had  undoubted  characteristics  of  the  two  species — the  head  most 
like  that  of  the  grouse ;  the  breast  nearly  black,  with  white  bars 
like  many  grouse ;  the  back  with  five  brown  and  black  stripes, 
scarcely  darker  than  many  grouse  which  I  have  killed  ;  the  tail 
larger  than  that  of  the  grouse,  and  very  slightly  forked ;  the 


106  NAIRN. 

legs  and  feet  clothed  like  those  of  a  grouse,  but  in  rather  a  less 
degree.  The  bird,  on  dissection,  proved  to  be  a  male.  I  saw  a 
bird  very  similar  killed  in  Kirkcudbrightshire  this  year,  which 
I  have  no  doubt  was  also  a  hybrid  of  the  same  kind.  Hybrids 
between  the  black  grouse  and  capercailzie  are  not  uncommon. 
Those  between  the  black  and  red  grouse  are  very  rare. 

In  collections  of  eggs,  the  errors  and  wrongly  named  eggs 
are  endless. 

There  is  most  decisive  difference  between  the  young  herring 
and  the  "  garvie,"  both  of  which  fish  are  caught  at  the  same  time 
in  the  Firth  of  Forth.  The  garvie  is  a  shorter  and  deeper  fish  in 
proportion  to  its  size,  and  has  also  a  considerably  smaller  head 
and  mouth  than  the  other  fish. 

January  IQth. — In  the  Firth  I  see  velvet  ducks,  eider  ducks, 
scoter,  scaup  ducks,  mallard,  wigeon,  Gt.  divers,  B.  throated  divers 
(immature),  curlews,  etc. ;  immense  flights  of  sandpipers  of  different 
kinds,  apparently  mostly  the  ash-coloured  sandpipers,  pitch  on  the 
extreme  point  of  breakwater  at  the  end  of  Leith  Pier.  Cor- 
morants perch  on  the  lighthouse  or  tower  at  the  end  of  the  pier. 

The  squirrels  in  the  country  feed  mostly  on  the  seed  of  the 
Scotch  fir,  cutting  up  the  cones  to  get  at  them. 

A  fox  appears  to  hunt  daily  along  the  shore  to  west  of  Granton. 

Fine  specimens  of  the  grey  plover  in  one  of  the  poulterer's 
shops. 

The  quails  are  so  rank  and  strong- tasted  which  I  buy  here 
as  to  be  quite  unfit  to  eat. 

Found  in  a  shop  a  very  peculiar  coloured  new  pheasant  of  a 
uniform  silver-grey,  or  French  white. 

The  raccoons  almost  invariably  lose  their  eyesight  in  the 
Zoological  Gardens  here. 

There  is  a  wolf  here  so  tame  that  he  allows  strangers  to 
caress  him  as  quietly  as  a  dog,  and  appears  always  anxious  to  be 
taken  notice  of  and  petted. 

The  black-headed  bunting  feed  indiscriminately  on  corn  and 
insects.  I  find  in  their  crops  a  number  of  small  beetles,  and  also 
oats. 


NAIRN. 


107 


The  rooks  in  Edinburgh  build  in  nearly  every  square  and 
garden  in  great  numbers.  They  break  the  twigs  off  the  trees  to 
build  with.  Some  of  the  trees  are  nearly  destroyed  by  them,  all 
the  small  twigs  being  broken  off.  During  the  building  season 
(March)  the  rooks  are  very  tame  in  Edinburgh,  "walking  about 
the  streets  close  to  the  passers-by,  and  coming  into  the  little  yards 
and  gardens  to  carry  off  any  stick  that  may  be  lying  about.  They 
also  walk  about  the  streets  in  search  of  bits  of  hay,  straw,  etc.  to 
line  their  nests  with. 

In  severe  frost  and  snow,  the  Highlanders,  who  are  liable  to 
much  exposure,  loosen  every  strap  and  bandage  that  can  at  all 
impede  the  circulation  of  their  blood,  to  escape  being  frost-bitten. 
They  even  take  off'  their  garters.  Nevertheless,  Professor  Syme 
says  that  he  has  eleven  or  twelve  frost-bitten  patients  every 
season. 


ELGIN. 

1851-2. 

December  23rd,  1851. — The  thrushes  and  missel-thrushes 
have  been  singing  ever  since  the  beginning  of  the  month. 

Badgers  do  not  remain  so  much  in  their  holes  during  cold 
weather  as  people  suppose.  I  frequently  find  their  tracks  in  the 
snow.  Not  a  wounded  duck  appears  to  escape  them  (and  the  foxes) 
about  Spynie. 

I  see  several  peregrines  about,  both  old  and  young  birds. 

January  7th,  1852. — The  woods  at  Loch-na-bo  full  of  tom- 
tits of  three  kinds,  golden-crested  wrens,  crossbills,  etc.  Saw  a 
peregrine,  a  hen-harrier,  a  sparrow-hawk,  and  a  merlin  pass  the 
road  near  us  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  each  other. 

February  3rd. — Went  to  the  Loch  of  Spynie  in  the  afternoon. 
A  great  many  ducks  of  all  kinds,  and  also  large  flocks  of  peewits. 
The  first  time  that  I  have  seen  them  this  spring  I  shot  a  gull  (im- 


ELGIN.  109 

mature  herring)  with  its  crop,  etc.  quite  full  of  turnip.  I  never 
before  knew  that  any  gulls  eat  these  plants.  Very  cold  wind,  W. 

February  8th. — The  birds  (thrushes  and  chaffinches)  sing 
very  much  now  in  the  garden.  The  large-headed  field-mice, 
which  are  very  destructive  to  many  plants,  such  as  pinks,  car- 
nations, cabbage  plants,  stocks,  French  beans,  young  sweet  peas, 
etc.,  do  not  seem  to  come  out  of  their  holes  in  the  walls  much  in 
wet  weather.  These  mice  also  peel  the  ash  branches,  the  young 
pink  thorns,  etc.  which  grow  on  the  old  walls.  The  best  bait  for 
them  seems  to  be  pieces  of  apple,  as  they  appear  to  be  quite 
vegetable  eaters. 

February  14A — A  water-ouzel  in  the  Lossie  was  singing 
this  morning,  and  chasing  another  bird  of  the  same  kind, 
apparently  a  female,  not  being  so  black  as  the  one  that  was 
singing.  They  frequently  both  dropped  into  the  water,  arid 
dived  for  a  short  time.  The  song  is  very  musical  and  pleasing, 
though  short. 

February  24th. — Fine.  Great  numbers  of  duck,  wigeon,  teal, 
and  one  goose  (I  think  a  white-fronted  goose)  in  the  swamp 
at  Lochinvar. 

I  heard  the  wood-pigeon  coo  for  the  first  time  this  year  to-day. 

March  23rd. — Warm  and  gentle  rain.  I  see  a  wren  building 
in  the  garden.  Several  pairs  of  wood-pigeons -close  to  the  house. 

April  *7th. — I  see  the  eels  beginning  to  show  in  the  dead 
pools^up  the  river. 

A  hawk  to-day  attacked  the  birds  in  the  cages  which  were 
outside  the  window,  killing  two  birds  and  tearing  the  wing 
off'  a  poor  bullfinch,  so  that  we  were  obliged  to  kill  it. 

April  I  Oth. — A  water- ouzel's  nest  in  the  burn  has  two  eggs. 
It  was  built  in  a  broken  bank. 

The  bats  fly  about  now  round  the  buildings  and  garden. 
Geese  have  been  seen  aboitt  for  some  days,  but  do  riot  seem 
to  feed  near  this. 

April  13th. — C.  took  the  water-ouzel's  nest — an  immense 
building  for  the  size  of  the  bird,  the  whole  being  fully  as  large  as 
a  pail,  made  of  moss  outwardly  and  lined  with  dry  grass,  etc. 


110  ELGIN. 

April  19th. — I  see  in  the  rapid  gravelly  streams  of  the 
burn  a  great  many  lampreys  (five  inches  in  length),  collected 
in  groups  of  six  or  eight,  and  apparently  very  busily  employed  in 
carrying  about  small  stones  about  the  size  of  a  sweet  pea. 

The  river  and  burn  are  smaller  than  I  ever  saw  them,  owing 
to  the  long  continued  want  of  rain. 

April  25th. — Bright  and  clear,  but  cold  east  wind.  The 
little  willow  wren  is  now  in  the  garden.  Great  want  of  rain. 
The  farmers  complain  of  their  grass  being  entirely  burnt  up. 

April  27th. — Peewits  are  hatched. 

April  28th. — Young  blackbirds  and  robins  flying.  Warm 
rain  for  an  hour. 

April  29th. — I  saw  a  large  flock  of  fieldfares  to-day.  They 
are  very  late.  I  shot  one  that  there  might  be  no  mistake. 

In  Spynie  I  found  one  egg  of  the  black-headed  gull.  They 
have  built  plenty  of  nests,  but  have  not  laid  any  eggs  yet. 

April  30th. — In  the  evening  we  went  to  the  Wood  of  Plus- 
carden.  The  badgers  were  making  a  great  noise  late  in  the 
evening,  apparently  frightened. 

Vast  numbers  of  wood-pigeons  breed  in  the  woods,  but  I  think 
that  very  few  eggs  are  hatched  owing  to  the  crows  taking  them. 

May  5th. — I  looked  for  the  nest  of  the  peregrine  to-day,  and 
found  that  it  is  placed  not,  as  usual,  on  a  ledge  of  rock,  but  quite 
within  a  small  hole  in  a  place  apparently  more  suited  for  a  jack- 
daw to  build  in.  Below  the  nest  at  the  foot  of  the  cliff  we 
found  a  drake  teal  partly  eaten,  but  quite  fresh.  The  falcon 
must  have  carried  it  about  three  miles. 

In  the  woods  the  badgers  and  foxes  make  a  great  noise  now 
at  night,  barking,  howling,  etc. 

On  the  2nd  the  black-headed  gulls  have  their  nests  in 
Spynie,  principally  with  only  one  egg,  few  with  three,  their 
whole  number. 

May  10th. — We  heard  the  land-rail,  and  saw  swifts  and  fly- 
catchers for  the  first  time.  We  took  a  nest  of  shovellers'  eggs 
(10)  in  Spynie.  Also  a  good  many  black-headed  gulls'  eggs. 
I  saw  several  wild  ducks'  nests,  and  also  a  brood  or  two  of  young 


ELGIN.  Ill 

coots,  which  had  just  left  the  nest.  Snipes'  eggs  and  redshanks' 
also  in  Spynie. 

May  llth. — Fished  with  Mr  Allen,  and  caught  a  clean 
salmon  with  a  par. 

We  heard  a  bird  singing  in  the  garden  whose  note  was  new. 
On  watching  we  found  that  it  was  a  blackcap,  a  very  rare  bird  so 
far  to  the  north. 

May  29th. — Birds  in  the  garden  now  are  very  numerous, 
particularly  for  a  spot  of  ground  so  nearly  in  a  town — 

1.  Wood-pigeon.  8.  Willow-wren.  14.  Tree-sparrow. 

2.  Cuckoo.  9.  Whitethroat.  15.  Greenfinch. 

3.  Missel-thrush.  10.  Hedge-sparrow.  16.  Chaffinch. 

4.  Thrush.  11.  Long-tailed  17.  Yellow-hammer. 

5.  Blackbird.  tomtit.  18.  Spotted  tiy- 

6.  Eobin.  12.  Little  B.  tomtit.  catcher. 

7.  Wren.  13.  Sparrow. 

Besides  constant  visitors,  such  as  hooded-crow,  jackdaw, 
siskin,  sparrow-hawk  and  other  hawks,  larger  titmouse,  cole  tit- 
mouse, etc.  etc.,  sixteen  varieties  breed  constantly,  besides  the 
swallows,  martins,  swifts,  about  the  house. 

There  is  scarcely  a  day  now  on  which  we  could  procure 
specimens  of  these  birds  within  twenty  yards  of  the  house,  and, 
as  I  said,  the  eggs  of  sixteen  of  them  within  the  garden.  I 
might  also  mention  golden-crested  wren,  bullfinch,  etc.,  which  are 
frequently  in  the  garden. 

June  1st. — During  a  heavy  shower  of  rain,  I  saw  eight 
young  but  fully  fledged  wrens  go  into  a  wren's  nest,  which  was 
scarcely  finished,  but  built  by  some  other  old  wrens. 

June  5th. — We  went  to-day  to  take  the  young  peregrines  on 
the  rocks,  near  Hopeman.^  By  letting  a  boy  over  with  a  rope,  we 
took  four  young  birds  nearly  as  large  as  the  old  ones,  but  covered 
with  white  down.  After  coming  home  we  fed  them  on  a  rabbit. 

July  2nd. — There  is  a  blackcap  in  the  garden  (a  rare  visitor 
here),  who  sings  most  indefatigably  from  three  in  the  morning 

*  [See  "Sport  in  Moray,  1882,"  p.  114.— ED.] 


112  ELGIN. 

till  ten  at  night.  It  was  some  time  before  I  could  get  a  sight  of 
the  bird,  as  he  sings  always  in  the  thickest  part  of  the  foliage. 

July  26th. — In  Pluscarden  Wood  I  found  a  woodcock's  nest 
with  three  eggs  at  the  foot  of  a  tree.  The  forester  told  me  that 
he  had  flushed  the  old  bird  off  it  seven  days  back.  She  appeared 
not  to  have  returned.  About  200  yards  from  the  place  I  shot 
an  old  woodcock,  with  a  young  one  rather  larger  than  a  snipe. 
They  were  in  a  dry  high  part  of  the  wood,  far  from  any  marshy 
or  wet  ground. 

July  27 th. — My  retriever  brought  to  me  while  looking  for 
ducks  in  Spynie  a  water-rail  about  two  or  three  days  old,  the  old 
one  following  the  dog  and  uttering  cries  of  alarm  and  anger.  He 
also  caught  and  brought  an  old  coot  with  its  quill  feathers  all 
out,  so  that  it  could  not  fly.  The  dog  always  kills  an  old  coot, 
though  he  does  not  hurt  a  wild  duck  in  the  least.  I  suppose 
that  the  reason  is  that  the  coot  scratches  him  jeverely  with  her 
sharp  claws. 

August  23rd. — Immense  numbers  of  wild  ducks  come  now  to 
feed  on  the  standing  barley.  Swallows  and  martins  collect  in 
large  flocks. 

September  1 9th. — Went  to  Tain. 

September  24th. — In  woods  near  Tain  saw  a  great  many 
crossbills. 

A  large  stag  was  going  about  amongst  the  other  deer, 
occasionally  roaring,  though  not  regularly  yet.  They  were, 
however,  rolling  in  the  pools  every  night.  -  , 

September  30th. — Very  wild  day.  Eight  swans  arrived  at 
Spynie.  I  saw  that  one  had  been  wounded  from  a  mark  of 
blood  on  his  wing,  but  he  did  not  seem  much  hurt.  They  were 
all  pure  white. 

October  23rd. — This  season  seems  remarkable  for  a  great 
abundance  of  two  different  things — wood-pigeons  and  acorns. 
The  former  do  not  feed  much  on  acorns  in  this  country. 

I  scarcely  remember  sitting  down  to  eat  my  luncheon  in  any 
wood  in  this  country  when  shooting  or  fishing  without  a  robin 
appearing  close  to  me,  who  watches  my  proceedings,  and  the 


ELGIN. 


113 


moment  I  move  away,  begins  picking  up  the  crumbs  which  I 
fling  down  for  him.  Wrens,  too,  are  everywhere  in  the  woods, 
the  fields,  and  on  the  heather. 

November  I8tk. — T  saw  to-day  a  white  wood-pigeon  on  the 
same  farm  near  Elgin  where  I  saw  one  several  times  two  years  ago. 

November  28th. — I  find  the  crops  of  the  wood-pigeons  full  of 
the  seed  of  the  dock,  although  there  is  a  great  extent  of  newly 
sown  wheat  in  every  direction. 

December  1st. — The  wood-pigeon  which  I  kill  have  in  their 
crops  turnip  leaves,  the  seed  of  ragweed,  docks,  a  little  wheat,  and 
a  number  of  small  potatoes  as  large  as  marbles,  or  larger. 

December  *7th. — Both  yesterday  and  to-day  it  happened  that 
I  wounded  a  partridge  not  far  from  the  quarry  wood,  and  on 
both  occasions  a  peregrine  falcon  struck  the  bird  in  the  air  and 
carried  it  away  before  my  eyes. 

December  l^th. — Cold  day.  I  saw  a  white  wood-pigeon  to- 
day near  Pitgaveny. 


18  5  3. 

January  1st. — Cold  wind,  but  fine.  On  the  hill  at  Plus- 
carden  we  heard  several  rumbling  noises  like  (what  I  should 
imagine)  the  sound  of  an  earthquake. 

The  thrushes  sing  every  morning  in  the  garden. 

February  llth. — Returned  home  from  London.  Very  deep 
snow. 

February  1 5th. — Deep  snow.  The  river  is  so  closed  up  with 
ice  and  snow  that  the  wild  ducks  can  only  settle  in  a  few  places. 

Larks  have  quite  disappeared. 

February  Vlih. — The  ground  still  covered  with  deep  snow 
and  frost. 

February  18th. — Still  frost  and  snow.  I  never  remember  so 
severe  and  lasting  a  snowstorm  in  this  part  of  the  country.  The 


ELGIN.  115 

wild  ducks  are  nearly  all  driven  away  from  Spynie,  and  only  a 
number  of  unhappy  looking  coots  remain. 

February  22nd. — Deep  snow,  but  beginning  to  thaw. 

Thrushes  and  blackbirds  singing  in  the  morning. 

February  25th. — Still  snow  on  the  ground.  Thaw  part  of 
the  day,  but  freezing  towards  evening.  The  wood -pigeons, 
notwithstanding,  keep  in  good  order  filling  their  crops  with 
turnip  leaves,  never  having  any  of  the  roots  in  them,  or  even 
of  the  rib  of  the  leaf.  The  water-ouzels  sing  a  great  deal  in 
the  burn. 

Badgers  seem  to  walk  about  to  considerable  distances  in  the 
snow  looking  for  food.  Near  the  burn  the  tracks  of  otters  drag- 
ging themselves  along  the  snow  and  rolling  like  a  dog. 

March  llth. —  Very  fine.  Two  swans  at  the  Loch  of  Spynie, 
and  a  great  many  ducks  of  all  kinds.  Redshanks  and  black- 
headed  gulls  have  come  in  great  numbers. 

March  13th. — Fine.  A  great  many  teal,  etc.  in  Spynie, 
and  two  swans,  apparently  Bewick  swans,  judging  from  their 
comparatively  short  necks  and  round  bodies,  which  distinguish 
them  from  the  hooper. 

March  1 6th. — Ground  covered  with  snow.  In  some  of  the 
fields  were  great  numbers  of  large  round  lumps  of  snow  from  the 
size  of  a  man's  head  to  much  larger,  having  the  appearance  of 
snowballs  rolled  by  boys,  but  unlike  anything  naturally  formed 
that.  I  ever  saw  before.  I  could  only  attribute  them  to  the 
extreme  dryness  of  the  snow  allowing  itself  to  be  drifted  in  this 
manner.  The  ground  had  the  appearance  of  being  covered  with 
white  boulders. 

Eight  swans  at  the  Loch.  Dr  Manson  sends  word  to  me 
that  a  fox  has  been  killing  some  of  his  lambs,  a  very  unusual 
thing  for  a  lowland  fox  to  do. 

March  19th. — Larks  in  great  flocks. 

March  20th. — Still  frost  and  snow  on  the  ground.  The 
wood -pigeons  begin  to  coo  a  great  deal  in  the  woods.  Dozens  of 
them  cooing  at  once. 

The  roebuck,  whose  horns  are  now  soft,  lie  out  on  the  open 


116  ELGItf. 

hill  a  great  deal,  probably  not  liking  to  knock  their  horns  against 
the  thick  plantations. 

March  24A — Showers  of  snow  daily,  and  hard  frost  at  night. 
The  snipes  call  a  great  deal,  and  the  redshanks. 

March  25th. — Hard  frost  in  the  morning,  but  warmer  during 
the  day.  Very  cold  again  at  night.  The  sparrows  have  been 
building  for  some  days.  The  tree-sparrows  appear  again.  They 
seem  to  go  away  in  the  winter. 

March  29th. — Fine.  Slight  frost  in  the  morning.  The 
tortoise-shell  butterfly  was  flying  about  to-day.  Snipes  call  in 
all  the  marshes.  Many  of  the  coots  have  left  the  larger  lochs 
for  their  breeding-places,  in  small  pools,  marshes,  etc.  There 
appear  to  be  a  great  many  woodcocks  in  the  woods. 

March  30th. — A  white  hare  has  been  seen  for  two  or  three 
days  about  the  Castle  of  Spynie. 

Kennie  sent  me  a  wild  swan  killed  at  Lochlee,  weight  22^ 
lb.,  pure  white. 

March  31st. — Cold  wind,  E. 

April  2nd. — Eain,  but  warm.  We  killed  the  fox  which  had 
been  destroying  Dr  Hanson's  lambs. 

Eennie  brought  me  a  roundish  white  egg  with  a  smooth  shell, 
which  he  found  in  a  rabbit's  hole — length,  1^  of  an  inch ; 
breadth,  1£  of  an  inch,  apparently  the  egg  of  the  tawny  owl. 

April  6th. — Peewits  have  commenced  laying  about  Spynie. 
Along  the  edges  of  every  pool  and  ditch  near  Spynie  I  see  the 
remains  of  toads  which  have  been  killed  and  partly  eaten.  In 
every  instance  only  the  hind  legs  are  eaten.  I  suppose  it  is  the 
hooded  crow. 

While  looking  for  a  shot  drake,  "  Leo  "  (my  retriever)  suddenly 
fell  down  dead  without  a  moment's  illness  of  any  kind,  as  he  was 
apparently  perfectly  well  to  the  last  instant. 

Very  few  ducks  in  Spynie. 

Dr  Manson's  greyhounds  killed  two  white  hares  near  his 
house  yesterday.  A  very  unusual  occurrence  to  see  these 
animals  so  far  from  their  accustomed  places. 

Found  that  the  dog  was  poisoned  by  strychnine. 


ELGIN.  117 

April  *7th. — A  pair  of  wood-pigeons  looking  for  a  resting- 
place  in  the  garden. 

April  1  Oth. — As  yet  1  have  not  seen  a  single  spring  bird  of 
passage,  such  as  the  wheatear,  etc.,  which  I  generally  see  a  week 
before  this.  Every  bird  is  late  this  year.  On  the  19th  of  April 
in  a  former  season  I  had  found  a  wild  duck's  nest  with  thirteen 
eggs,  apparently  within  a  week  of  hatching.  This  season  I  do 
not  think  that  they  have  eggs  yet. 

April  1 5th. — Soft  west  wind.  Fished  to  Lossiemouth  and 
caught  a  few  white  trout. 

April  16th. — On  Monaghty  Hill  killed  a  mountain  hare.  I 
found  a  wild  duck's  nest  with  eleven  eggs.  The  old  bird  sitting. 

A  sparrow-hawk  took  a  hen  blackbird  off  her  nest  in  the 
garden  to-day. 

April  24:th. — Wild  duck  in  the  garden  beginning  to  sit. 

April  26th — I  found  the  peregrine's  nest  at  Hopeman  in 
exactly  the  same  hole  that  she  used  last  year.  I  saw  three 
sand-martins  to-day. 

May  5th. — Gulls  have  great  numbers  of  eggs  in  Spynie. 
Many  of  the  nests  have  their  full  number  and  are  sitting. 

The  sedge-warblers  are  in  the  reeds,  etc.  about  the  loch. 

Young  wild  ducks  hatched  on  the  3rd. 

May  9th. — At  Spynie  saw  swifts  and  heard  the  cuckoo, 
both  for  the  first  time  this  year.  I  heard  the  sedge-warblers  in 
the  reeds.  The  gulls  (black-headed)  are  more  numerous  than 
ever.  Very  few  ducks  appear  to  have  nests.  Three  pairs 
of  shovellers  (at  least)  flying  about.  Cold  wind  and  sleet. 

Sedge-warblers  singing. 

May  10th. — The  herring-gulls  have  eggs. 

May  llth. — The  common  white  butterfly  flying  about. 

May  llth. — Found  a  merlin's  nest  with  three  eggs.  The 
old  birds  appear  to  watch  near  it  by  turns  to  keep  off  the  hooded 
crows  from  their  eggs  till  they  begin  to  sit. 

C.  found  the  shoveller's  nest  (eleven  eggs)  at  Spynie. 

We  went  to  the  rocks  near  Covesea  to  look  for  peregrines' 
nests.  For  some  time  the  old  birds  did  not  show,  and  although 


118  ELGIN. 

1  fired  off'  near  the  place  at  a  blnerock-pigepn,  the  female  falcon 
did  not  leave  her  nest;  but  while  I  was  there  a  peregrine  (a  male), 
which  I  at  once  knew  to  be  a  stranger,  as  he  was  a  last  year's 
bird  and  still  quite  brown,  came  in,  apparently  from  Ross-shire. 
The  male  peregrine  belonging  to  Covesea  immediately  appeared 
and  attacked  him,  and  while  they  were  fighting  the  female  came 
off  her  nest,  and  the  two  Covesea  falcons  drove  the  stranger 
apparently  back  to  Ross-shire,  as  we  saw  them  going  towards 
that  coast  till  lost  in  the  distance.  Presently  the  two  Covesea 
birds  returned  alone. 

Snowie  sent  Mr  Hancock  the  skin  of  a  fresh  killed  female 
golden  eagle — width.  6  ft.  10  in.  ;  also  two  eggs  of  the  golden 
eagle. 

May  18th. — I  shot  an  old  female  badger  early  in  the  morning, 
as  she  was  returning  to  her  hole.  She  looked  as  if  with  young, 
but  on  dissecting  her  we  found  that  she  was  completely  gorged 
with  young  rooks,  probably  picked  up  under  a  rookery. 

In  Quarry  Wood  we  saw  the  siskins  feeding  their  young 
which  had  already  flown. 

May  19  th. — Rennie  brought  home  another  owl's  egg  from  a 
rabbit  hole  in  the  wood  behind  Woodside.  The  last  which 
he  brought  was  on  April  2nd. 

May  3 1st. — We  took  the  four  young  peregrines  out  of 
the  rock  at  Covesea.  They  were  about  the  right  size  for  taking. 
The  place  was  full  of  the  remains  of  pigeons,  peewits,  ringed 
dotterel,  and  redshanks. 

On  a  paling  near  Gordonstown  I  found  a  number  of  chrysalis, 
about  an  inch  long,  enclosed  in  a  kind  of  transparent  yellow 
case,  which  were  quite  new  to  me. 

June  I3th. — A  woman  brought  to  me  yesterday  a  young 
live  roe.  She  calls  it  three  weeks  old,  but  it  does  not  appear 
quite  as  old  as  she  says.  It  drinks  milk  very  readily. 

June  15th. — I  found  a  woodcock's  nest  with  four  eggs.  The 
old  bird  flew  off  and  fluttered  along  the  ground  to  take  off 
our  attention.  The  nest  was  made  of  moss,  small  sticks,  etc., 
and  placed  under  some  cut  branches. 


ELGIN. 


119 


August  9th. — In  the  woods  near  Loch  Rannoch  I  saw  a 
great  many  siskins,  crossbills,  redpolls,  etc. 

Near  Carr  Bridge,  on  the  Spey,  I  saw  a  squirrel  in  a 
small  clump  of  alder  bushes. 

At  Rannoch  Lodge  there  is  a  wild  swan  which  was  winged 
two  or  three  years  ago,  and  now  comes  to  the  house  to  be  fed,  as 
tame  as  any  of  the  tame  swans. 

At  Inverness  I  saw  with  a  bird  stuffer  a  specimen  of  the  rose- 
coloured  starling,  just  killed. 


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