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2
3
4
5
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NAUIJATTVE
OF
1
V VOYAliE TO THE TOLAR SEA
DijuiNG lh7.3-()
IN
//..]/. SIIII'S -ALEUT' ASh ' hlS('(tVi:iiY'
l-.Y
CAIT SIU (i. S. NAUKS, K.X., K.V.W., K.IJ.S.
( <i.\i.\iAM)i;u or Tin: kxi'KDITIox
Wrni NOTES on the SATUliAL lUSroliV
KIHIKIl HV
H. W. KKIIiDKN, KC.S., C.M.Z.S., F.R.Ci.S.
NAIl llAUr-r TO Tilt EXrKl)lTK>N
.^"
!\ TWO VOLIMES
VOL. 11. ^
LOXUON
SAMPSON LOW, MAUSTON, SKAULK, & lllVINGTON
CKOWN IJUILmNliS. Kxs FLKKT STUKET
isrs
'AH I >'ihi' /••■.>* M f ./I
i
I
('ONTEN rs
111
Til K sKCOXn VOLIMK
ClIAlTKlt I
\„xi..tv Mhout Ahln.-ir- imvlv-Lieutetmnt May .mt m i-lirvc
l,i,„_(;,..-r ,nul.l.K-k,- amv..-Hvtun.ur Aklrirh (^oinmcnce-
„„.„, „r tl.MW -lAlriu-ts fp.M. Li.M.t. \l.lri<-!.-> ulllcml ivi.oil .
('HAPTKi; II
H.ri.lo to ivturn ^.mth -SoUiii--ii. nf t!ie thaw— Miislc-aXi'ii sliol-
liMMviiM. iuia .I.MMvasf .ifj)<>liir tlo.'s-Fonimti.m of i.ni-kiuli' Wi-
-Disniiitinn of Hoos-Cluin— ( iiv.Milaiul i,v-nii) -Ih-ift-wooil
-Airtic tldwriiiii' plants -' Al.-rt " starts for DiscuviTV Bay . •><»
("HAiTKi; III.
;,,. .nlaiul pavtv ,.itaclu..l Nvilh scurvy- Dt-alhs ..f tw.Muon-Cai.tain
Stculu'uson' ,.n.,-.vas to Polaris lky-J5.'aunio..t rfturns to ^^
I »is'n)vi'r\ Hav— Account of his prom-din^rs . • • • ''-
CHAl'TKK IV.
Leave FlocU>vfx licach -Navigation of ltolK,-sontn.aunel-Itsoxlreme
ailllculty-Capc rniou-Stopped at Uapc Ik'echcy-Kskimo
rouuiins-liruul ^'ccso - liojoin thu ' IMscovcry '- KiHin- a
nmskox -UtM urn of Ik^miiioul's party . • • •
. 114
\ I
(•oNIKNTS.
CIIAPTKi: V.
Ifich vi'^'t'tiitii)n Ui'll>t Island —Ccuil m-umi ('i»)it' Miircliisdii -
Li'itvc |)i«riiv('rv Uji\ < )|)cii wiiIit Kt'iiiiftly Cliaiiiicl Sti(|i|i('i|
liv tlif |iat'l\ ' AliTt " Inrct'il mi slum' — Scvt'n> flnnii — Sl(i|>|)tMl i>\\'
('ape I'la /••!•— I ^lvt'kit'^^ — I'liitcr nnblan IJay- 'I'l'iiipcnitmv ami
sp«'cilif <.'ra\itv of tin- st'.i — Lal-'iu'ss of tlic mmsoii — I''iiniMitii>n
of ici-lttTirs -Slmvl sii]i|tly ol' coal {'a.-^s N'ictoriii llcail Opt'ii
waltT— Vi.xit ("a]M' Isalirlla News iVum Mn^.'-laml — Sir AlK-ii
Voiin;: — Navi;nitioii of Siiiiili S.hmkI ....
CI! Al'l'Kl; VI,
\Vf leave Smith Soiunl— Hark at midiii^rlit — (iale <<{' wind — Mardcn
Bay — Arctic Ili^'lilaiidi'is — l'o>MS>ioii May ( 'ross Hallin's Ifciy —
I't'iinicratiiriMit' tju' sea- Arrive at I »isco - l-li/fdcsiuiudc Sc\cic
y-.ilc Ituddcr head sjiriiiif.' — Sii:ht the ' Pandora' — Arrive in
Knirhmd A]i|iro\al ot'thr Lnrdsoftlie Admiralty — Letter iVoni
ller .Majesty tile l^iiecn ......
I .Vi.K
10
I
Al'PKNIUX.
I. l';thU(do;ry . . . . . . |S7
II. Mammalia ....... l!»2
III. (iniiilioIo!xy ...... I'OC.
I\. lciithviilo<.'y . . . . . . . I'l"^
\. MolUisca \ . . . . . . -J-J-',
\ I. In.s"eta aiiti .Vraeliiiida . . . ... L'."i4
\ II. ('rn.-lacea ....... l'K>
\ III. Aimelida ....... L'.')7
I\. Ilehinoderniula ...... l'<i()
X. I'oly/.oa . . . . . . . js;!
\I. Ilydro/oa ....... J'.K)
.Ml. Sjionyida . . . . . . i".i;!
.\1II. IJlii/opixhi retienhnia ..... :,'!*")
.\1\ . IJotany ........ :\()\
\\. I icoio^'-y ....... .'(LT
.\\l. lu'jicn't on IVttjnnanii ( ilacier . . . . . '■\\i\
.\\ II. (iamo List . ' . . . . . . :\r,-2
Will. .Meteorohvical .Mtslra.M . . . :','>4
XIX. Abstract ol" ltL'Sult,s ohtainod I'rom tliu Tiilal Obsurvivtiuns , oot?
ixi)i:x ....... .m",
ak.-
I.IS'I' OI'^ [LLUS^rilAI^TONS
I
IN
TIM'; SI-COXI) N'oU'MIv
I'jfirrninni'iis.
]U^il>\V.VA \\\\ ' \\l\li;i; . . . . J-'i(>,i/is/,irir
'Ai.Kiii" Mi'i'DK m;.m; Cvi'i; l{i;i;t lll;^. KniinsiPN ( 'n \.\m;i, '/'„ f',i,r ji. Ij'.t
l>is(i)\ i,i{v ]}\Y Si M.\ii;i;
141
Fmj.-l'.\(!l-: TLLFSTRATIOXS.
I('i;-F(MiT m;ai{ ('\ri; I Mux (fkum a I'ikikmiii \i>ii) .
ijI(lHTKXl\(i A STUANIi|:ii l''l.ui;ni;ifu iiKK ('a\'i;
Hi;i:('iii;y u'Ijom a I^ikituoi! \nn
Tin-; ' I)is('(tvi:in ' dn Simin; (iiium a I'liniodi: mmi i ,
I('i;-KO(IT M:AI! ('mm; TkA/KI! (I'IMI.M \ riKH'ii.KAl'in .
I'liiiis OK Camdims ai;i;n \i;ia ....
('nrsiA(i;\ . . . . . . .
m
\r,:\
L'lO
IVnnlu'f'TS.
SoiTNi)iX(i loi; I,\xii
PoHT Okkick Caiiix
' Ai,i;ui'' ox SiKiiJi';
. 14;;
. . 14.S
\ 111
LIST (»1 ILI.I sillATKKNS.
!• Vl.l
Ki::
I?;;
17!i
-M'.t
Ali.max Hay . . . . .
I.KKKi;itTs (;i.\( Ii;i; ...
Smoutii-ioi'I'I :ii (il.vrii;i; in lUiinr.N ]\\\
( 'Y<I,iil'Ti;Krx sI'INdSIs ....
IJVIHI.A 111' UrcclNIM •ii;UUAll .M . . . . . L'L'.)
TllK lloTliKl'lM iKMis . . . . J;!(;
\iiNni!MAr, Iti;\ n.ni'MiiNT nh Till: l>KMAi, Ai;M\ii i:i; IN (»..Sai;>ii -'71
l'iY(iiMii\sri:i \ piilvkim: —
I. Latku'", \ii;\\ {DHifonffHl) . . . . , L'iiO
'J. l',nr\r«>UlAI. I'l!i'.ri;( ilnN (iiKii/iiiJiifl) . . . 'J\)\
• i. N'ArniAi. Sizi: . . , . . . , 'J'.H
t
.U.I/'
III |\V Mill \Nli llKTlUN TllACKs
'/'() fact' jiiiiji' 1
!
_L 1..
-V
-I r
\'
k
•B
NAEEATIVE
OF
A VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA
DU RI NG 1875-76,
CHAPTER I.
^
ANXIETY ABOUT ALLBICH S PARTY — LIEUTENANT MAY SENT TO RELIEVE
HIM — GEESE AND DCCKS ARRIVE — RETURN OP ALDRICH — COM-
MENCEMENT OF THAW — EXTRACTS FROM LIEUT. ALDKICH's OFFICIAL
REPORT.
I'liE (Tip])led State of Commander Markliam's men
raised serions apprehensions reg.'irdinjjf the liealth of the
western division of travellers. Tliey were due at the
Joseph Henry de])ut on the loth, but as Aldrich's last
accounts infonned nie that the provisions he had saved
would enable liini to proloniLr his journey six or seven
days, and not expecting that his men woidd be called
U})on to imdergo much more severe labour than former
Arctic travellei's had successfidly combated, I was not
greatly alarmed about him. Nevertheless frequent and
anxious visits were made to the look-out hill, fi'om
whence the blark pilf «)f ]>rovisions foi'uiiiig his depot
VOL. H. ij
0
19 ZOf^uxhexut abtrndoT
IS b
lllJi.'l LtI;.lii.J
3^, , 45' , 30' ,
30' IS GiL"
■•■"^'
to K^y.
'9
m
w) Bnmmocks A^H'^high
'S
J
i^ 29-30 April
V^
?^^-
<?•. >
■O 28
:- f 27 April
Tar^98°to 102" West.
Ice HvannuKks discoLand by mud.
Tracker of a. hare seen.
Z6'
^211
.«{;:>;.
rr«
April.
^azf
"^-r-S
.. /^
A
23 1
ir
•>:■'■
'S3|23
April,
^*^if^p
?f(
\taiiy22
<:6^l
k
I .y-^'
r
^P"^
"M^
^J|u^
jJ^Apri
.
£r tA f
t^r*.
_- T.
19 ZOf^ux hoot abandoned
c^
n'"^
mi
,'f^i;'20 April
Mjlv 28 OTh, '■
19 20 ^^ire boat abandoned.
Cape'JosppIiflenTy
14. IB
y Va •( ^''j!fi^ Trajcesafalemming
Poptei- ««y
AylesP^\
-^
G R I :»■ N J-: I. L
L ^ N J)
!^^ Rowlings Hay g, Vs
-Q
'^-^sWfQJ
m
.|j|4, ( Marco Polo Bay
■rjlt ■■■•
ARCTIC EXPEDITI(W;i87^^
H.W. SHIPS ALERT AND DISCOVERf
CAPTAmS (i. S. NARES, F. R. S. akd ILF. STEPHENS01J,R .TJ
^ Depot Pffr.Ric
ao'
'
OUTWARD AMD BETITRN TRACES
on the Sea Ice, extending NorthAvard,to 83? 20'26"N.
made by the Northern sledging party, nnder^ the. comnvxruLof
COMMANDER A.aMARKHAM:&LlElTTTA.C.FARR,ll.N.^<T/
Pr{mLE¥.S.Alerf 6 Winter (Quarters mlatBZ? 27T!f.Loi^: Gl" 18'w!
hetween^ April jr^ ancLJane ]3^]/f76.
Fu^uj-tv on the land slunv die
h^Cqhts in ll'ft ahove the. se/i .
010^
«'-J
0
Seal* of ZaU'tiuif S Diatiince
lo
jumuuL
30'
IS'
T|rrfT|~nTT-rrrr rTTni p ' T"T7-*"'-rr[-^ t t r rtTrprTTrr? m ! p i i' i 1 1 ' i Trrn t |xvri-rT f» T»TtTTTTr
-^' ir' i: Xfi ^r' myt' te'
30'
IS'
6
nrTTTTTTTi rr T rTTTTTTi 1 1 1 1 1 rriT
3° Longitude Wey
I.oruix)n Siuripsorv Low, Marston , St\
ifi^Mfl
3 Apri
ZO f^vce boat abatuioned.
'JS
t4.IS
Traces of a lemmmxf
SO
46'
Low, Marstnn . ,Searljt S Ttivirufforh.
MaDjy & Sons ,Li£h..
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
June
could be iiidistiiictly seen, thoiij^li thirty miles distant,
whenever the ntnios])here \vas clear.
I continue to quote from my journal : —
' 14th. — After seeing Markham's men made com-
fortable, and distributiiiijf Sherard Osborn's cham-
])a_irne to those amonjjj them whom the doctor ])ermitted
to receive it, I ascended to the look-out cairn. The
de])ot a])peared smaller than when last seen, so I con-
clude that Ahhich has visited it. If so he will be at
Knot Harbour to-morrow, and will signal from thence.
' Inth. — The invalids are already showin<]j si<;ns of
improvement, and are in excellent s])irits. Misty
weather prevents our seeing the depot, but there was
no ilag hoisted at Ca])e Eichardson.
' Althouu'h the ice is ap])arently free to rise and ftill
with the tide, it does not do so to the full extent, the
water rising and fallinjjj from four to eidit inches in
each crack in the Hoe. As the shiji is firmly sealed to
the ice any tidal observation dejiendent on the register
being secured to the shi]) would require a correction.
' l7f/<. — The depot was distinctly in sight to-day;
it has certainly not been disturbed. If Aldrich does
not arrive there to-morrow a relief party must start to
meet him ; however, he is so judicMous an officer that
I have every confidence in his actions whatever may
overtake him. Arctic sledging is necessarily pre-
carious work ; although with s])ecially equi])ped ex-
peditions it has hitlierto l)een attended with success
yet there have been many hair-breadth escajies.
' In favoui'cd localities the ])ui'plc saxifrage is in
fnll ll(AVcr. A blight j)iece adoi'iied the dinner-table
to-dav.
4
lf<7(J
BELIEF I'AKTY STARTS.
ay;
oes
t to
Imt
)re-
ex-
cess
■< in
i
^ISt/i. — liiist iiiiilit tlie teni])emluro, wliicli luis
been U]) to freezinjj: point for two days, fell to 20°.
Tliis is liij/lily favounible for the travellei's. The
colder the weatlier tlie better road will they lind across
Feilden Peninsula. The snow on the floe is now wet
and heavy in ])laces, but the thaw cannot be said to
have set in. In the immediate vicinity of the shi[) it
is more in advance than elsewhere; the dirt and smoke
from the funnels collected on the floeberu's in the
neighbourhood liel|) to absorb the heat-rays from
the sun and to quicken the natural decay. Owing to
the pool of water which surrounds the ship it has
])een necessary to construct a long gangway with two
spare toj)sail yards to britlge over the space.
' All the powder has been brought on board, but I
am waiting for warmer weather to dry the magazine
before stowing it away.
' The de})ot being still untouched, Lieutenant May,
with well-rested dogs and three strong men, M.alley,
Self, and Thornback, started this evening to meet
Aldri('h and his l)arty, with orders to continue their
Journey if necessaiy to the depot at Ca[)e Colaii,
where Aldrich was due twelve days aj^o.
' VM/i. — The country in our neighbourhood is so
covered with snow that it Avould be useless for shoot-
ing parties to leave the sliip. But as the hills near
Cape Ixichai'dson pre*:ent a more promising aj)pearance
Parr and Feilden, draAving a small sledge, have started
for Knot Harbour in the hope of obtaining some fresh
game ready for Aldrich's men.
' Nelly, Markham's dug, and both the cats, are
suffering in health, and are sup[;o.Hd to have scorbutic
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
Junk
sym])toms. Bruin, an old dog tluit refuses to work
with the sledge team, has for some time been perform-
ing very valuable servic^e in dragging fresh-water ice
from the quarry to tlie ship. The men merely load
the sledge and start him on his journey, when he
runs home by himself. To-day I observed one of the
men riding on the empty sledge for a short distance
where the road was hard : the dog was tlierefore
dragging about two hundred pounds' weight. The
poor thing looked over its shoidder occasionally, begging
for compassion and a little more consideration.
' 2\)th. — At 3 A.M. I could see the depot plainly ;
at nine it was not so distinct, probably on account of
uiirage. A small tern [Sterna macrura) with a black
head and light slaty-blue wings was shot while hovering
above one of the water-pools formed on the surface of
the ice.
' A few brent geese have passed us flying from
Eobeson Channel towards the north-west, but two of
them were observed to return south again.
' All the ice hummocks which have jirojecting
upper surfaces, and the mushroom-shaped floeberg"s,
denoting age, are now enveloped in a dra[)ery of
mgantic icicles, and the entrances to the few caves
are completely blocked up by them. The sliarj) edges
are rounding off much quicker than we anticipated.
Consequently the formation of the glassy ice-knolls
on the surface of tlie aged floes, out of a ran<^e of
lofty hummocks of pressed up angular blocks of ice,
may not occu})y a very great number of years. While
the ice above water is thus melting rapidly from the
intluence of the sun, that exposed to the warm surface
V.
June
1870
DECAY OF SALT-WATER ICE.
fuses to work
1)0011 ])eiforiu-
•esli-vvator ice
II meroly load
iioy, when he
ed one of the
short distance
wais tlierefore
weight. The
.ually, begging
'ation.
lepot plainly;
on account of
) with a black
vhile hovering
the surface of
s flying from
t, but two of
1.
ve projecting
)ed floebergs,
a drapery of
10 few caves
e sharp edges
e anticipated.
^y ice-knolls
)f a range of
blocks of ice,
oars. While
dly from the
warm surface
water, now at a constant ton^.perature of 30°, is decay-
ing even quicker. By eating out a notch at the water-
line a now niushr()oni-sha])cd toj) is being produced
witli a j)rojocting s])ur below water. At a de])th
below six feet, and down to the l)ottom in twenty-
seven feet, the tem])erature is 20°-2, a rise of more
than half a degree since the wmter. Unless the ice,
>vhen in course of formation or subsequently, pose.«5sed
the poAver to cast out a veiy considei'able ])roportion
of its salt, this temperature would be sufficient to
melt it ra])idly ; but owing to the coni])arative pnrity
of the salt-v ter ice it is decaying very slowly, and
has undergone very little change during the last three
weeks.
' 2\fit. — To-day Markham and I, after an hour's
stay on the hill-top, with the atmosphere fairly clear,
could see no signs of the depot. Our not seeing it
may, hviAvever, be due to the rai)id melting of the snow
backgroimd from behind the bluck stack of provisions,
leaving it no longer in relief.
' A small pool of water was met with for the first
time on shore luider a cliff with a southern aspect.
' Now that the ration of salt meat is reduced, the
rough salt obtainable from the salt meat brine is not
sufficient for our consunqjtion. It is a curious fact
that such a simple but necessaiy article was the only
thing forgotten in our ample outfit.
' 2'2nd. — A westerly gale which set in yesterday
has continued all day, with a temperature up to 35".
This will materially ha::ten the thaw.
' The temperature of the land eighteen inches below
the surface is only 6°. As the temperature of the air
(>
VOY.VnH TO TIIK rOLAlf SKA.
Jl'NK
,1'
I
i!!
lias been liiirlier for tlie last forty days, the roiuliK'tiiiL'
poAver of the frozen Ln'oimd must be very small.
*A lidit mist ])reveiite(l oiii" seeing- tlie depot, so we
remain in an anxious uncertainty about Aldrich's i)arty.
' A ilock of a dozen kini^-dueks arrived from the
southward, the lii'st that we have seen. They ap})a-
rently have not liaired yet. They renuiiiied near us
foi" two or three hours, but were too wild to allow the
spoilsmen to a|)])roach near enou^di for a shot. Dr.
Moss has fixed a wooden decoy-duck in one of the
water-])ools netir the ship ; but the passing birds are
not readily attracted.
' When we compare the fiiirly-cleared black hills of
the United States Eanire with our snow-covered groimd
we cannot wonder at the absence of game in our
neiuhbourhood. No bird or beast would remain where
there is scarcely a bare stone on which to rest itself
when it sights the ]irosj)ect of well-vegetated pastures
near Cajie Richardson.'
The ducks a])peared to follow immediately on the
setting-in of the thaw. At Floeberg Beach they
arrived on the 22nd of June, the day after the first
pool of water wjis ol^served on the land. At Discoverj'^
Bay they were seen on the 12th ; but there the thaw
was also earlier, tlie ravines coinmencing to run on
the 11th. At Polaris Bay in 1872 a few streamlets of
water were observed by Captain Buddington as early
as the 3rd of June ; three days afterwards the ducks
arrived.
' 2ord. — To-day, with the temperature risen to
37*, the snow has become so soft that, except in the
deepest snow-drifts, our feet sink through it to the ice
i
1
1K7(»
I'OWKIi OF TIIK 8UX.
below. Tlie j^'ravel and cimU'i's strewed over the floe
near the ship, to hasten its decay, have at last coni-
nienced to eat their \vay down thron^h the ice. This
is more than a month later in the season than the
same event occuiTed at Melville Island in hititnde
75° 0' hi 1853.
' It would appear that the sun, unassisted by other
causes, is, after a cold winter, not suiliciently powerful
to ])roduce a thaw on a snow-clad j^round until it
attains an altitude of about thirty decrees ; if this is
the case, then at the North Pole it is doubtful whether
the snow ever becomes melted. At the South Pole,
where the climate is little allected by warm ocean
currents, no thaw can ever take place.'
The 21st proved to be the warmest day of the
year at Floeberg Beach. The sun having then an
altitude of 31°, the same that it has at London on the
12th of March and the 2nd of October, the black bulb
thermometer exposed to the sun's rays registered a
temperature of 128 degrees. In the sheltered position
of Discovery Bay and with a southerly jxspect, a similar
thermometer registered the same temperature on the
6th of June when the sun was the same height above
the horizon. In May when the sun attained an altitude
of twenty-three and-a-half degrees^ t^e height it reaches
at the Pole at midsunnner, the greatest amount of
heat registered by the black bulb thermometer was
95 degrees. The thaw, however, is as much dependent
on warm southerly winds as on the direct heat of the
sun at the place.
' 25/A. — The gale died out this morning, leaving
the temperature at 39°. Several ducks were observed
wmmmm
8
VOYAOE TO THE POLAR SEA.
Junk
rotuniiii^' south, I'videiitly dissiitislicd with our late
.season.
'As the atmosphere cleared, a large ])arty visited
the look-out hill, Markliam, Gilllird, and Egerton usinjjf
wiow-shoes. On our arrival at the summit, to my
intense relief "sve observed u tent ])it('he(l on the ice in
Dumbell Bay, which, as May would not be returninj^
without havin<( news of Aldrich, indicated the near
up})roa('h of both parties.
' At the same time \ve were a<.'ain treated with the
<^h)rious iridescent colouring in the clouds surroundinjjf
the sun ; surely eonveyin<jj some niessajjje of reassuring
love and protection from the Divine Maker and Pre-
server of us all.'
The usual time of the commencement of the thaw
— between the 14tli and 20tli of June — having ])assed,
May's journey was a most uneertaiii one ; for once the
delayed melting of the snow set in, the dogs would
be powerless until after the waters had drained off.
His early retin*n, ])roving that he had not been called
upon to ])erform a ' Rjrloru hoj)e ' journey beyond the
snow-filled valleys of Cape Joseph Henry, was natu-
rally a verj'- great relief to me, and the deep anxiety
which I had experienced diu'ing the past week for
tlie safety of each party gave place to a feeling of
thankfulness to God for the protection He had extended
to them.
On the morning of this same day Lieutenant Eaw-
son met Beaumont on the Greenland shore, struggling
homewaul to Polaris Bay with his crippled crew — the
very last march they could possibly have performed
but for the relief afforded them.
!
1
187(1
innriiN oi' niv. \vi;sti;i:\ I'autv
9
re-
Tiiiiiii^' our (l('|)iirtiir(' in ordiT not to disturb
Aldricli and liis civw whili' taking' their daily ivst, a
hir^'o party started iu the cveuiuL' and iiiut tlicm wIumi
about live miles distant tVoni the sliij).
As in tlio case of jMarkhain's men, scurvy liad nuule
sad havoc in tlieir ranks. Out of the ei^dit nuMubers
composing' the ])arty Lieut. AhhMch and Adam Ayles
^ve^e alone al)le to work. James Doid^'e and David
Mitchell were ^fallantly stru;/^diii^' al()n<f, each with the
assistance of a stalf. The four others, after lioldinu'
out as lonu as human natui'e [)ennitted, had to l)e
carried on the sledircs.
Altliou^di the disease liad actually commenced
durin*' the outward journey, it was not known to be
scurvy until they were half-way on tlieir return to
the shi|). Tlien the desolating s(;our<4e decidedly ])ro-
claimed itself, and most nobly was it cond)ated with
by odicer and men, the distressed invalids sti'uj/^iling
])ainfully and slowly alon<; until they reached to within
half-a-mile of the depot at Cape Josej)h Hemy. At
the very moment when four out of the ei<j;ht were
com])letely })rostrated, and it was physically imj)ossible
for the ])arty to have advanced farther, and Aldrich
had Urran<fed for Ayles to proceed by himself to the
shi[) for succour, as Lieutenant Parr had done oidy a
few days ])reviously, to their <jreat and mutual Joy
May with his relief party most providentially met them.
But so close a race were they running with the season
that the day after they crossed Black Cliff Bay the
thaw set in ; and Parr and Feilden, when returninur
only twenty-four hours afterwards, were so frequently
imbedded up to their middles in the wet snow and
-■■ imMW'M
10
V()YA(}K TO TIIH I'Ol.Ali SFIA.
Arm I.
1^
cold w.'ilcr, wliicli covci'cd the siirt'acc! <»t' the sodden
ilof, tlijit tlu'V could sciwccly recover tlitMii.st'lvcs.
Tlu'V reported it quite iiiipiissiible lor any men not in
lull lieidtii iind stren<j^tli, and totally impassable ior
lieavy sled^^'es.
llie following is a snnnnary of Lieutenant Aldrich's
journey, with extracts from liis ollicial rejKUt: —
After j)ai-tin<^' company with Conunander Markham
on the ilth of A))i-il, Aldrich and Gilfard, with their
two sledji'es, crossed Feilden Peiiinsuhi — the watershed
of wliicli was estimated to be 500 feet above the sea-
level. They arrived at the shore of James lioss Jiay
on tlie 15th, luivinjjf been oblijifed to resort to double-
manning the sled<j:es for the "greater ])art of the dis-
tance. Four hares had been shot, and traces of
])tarmi<jfan seen. Expectin<if to obtain future su])i)lics
the <;ame was cooked at once ; it was fated to be the
only fresh meat meal that they obtained.
On the ICtli they were travcllin<j^ across the bay
for sevend hours, uncertain whether they were on ice
or not, so nnicli did it resemble the snow-covered land.
In crossinjjf, no si<i;n of any ru})ture or crack in the ice
was met M'itii e":cei)t close to the shore, where there
was a sli<jfh*Iy raised ice-hinjj^e, evidently due to tidal
motion, and proving that although the ice in James
Ross Bay does not clejir out during the sunnner, it
was not frozen solid to the bottom of the sea.
Sheltered as the bay is from the prevailing
westerly winds, the snow lay in a very soft state, and
caused severe labour in advancing the sledges. On
the 17th Crosier Island was visited. The line of ice-
hummocks, wliidi denote the boimdary line between
1
1
4
:<
i*
1
1H7(»
WKSTKUN SLKIKiK JorUNIOY.
11
bay
1 ice
land.
ic i(;e
there
tidal
iunes
[iv, it
liliiig
and
On
ice-
:>.
ween
i
■i
■#£
llie stationary ice and that in motion (hiring' tiio
sununer, was observed to le:ive the coast at a point
about three mih's west of Cape Josepii Henry, and to
pass a niih' outside of tiie islaiuh and apparently a
shoi't distance outside of Ca|)e llecla. On the I'.Mli
tiie Tarry reiiinsula, two and-a-ludf miles in breadth,
was crossed, and the shore of Clements Markhani iidet
reached. From a hei^dit of 700 feet above the sea the
line of ice-lunnmocks was observed extendin^r to tlie
westward in a line crossing' the mouth of the inlet
towards Cape Colan with a level ice-lloe to the south-
ward, which, like that in James lloss Jiay, never clears
out. Aldrich remarks in his ollicial journai : — 'I
([uestion if the ice ever breaks up alto;^'ether ; the
land south of Cape Colan is steej), and would seem
to indicate deep water.' With clear weather it was
H|)])arent that no land extended to the northward of
Cape Cohnnbia, and the travellers' hopes of attaining a
high northern latitude were greatly lessened. Towards
tiie south-west a misty atmos|)here ])i*evented the land
at the bottom of Markham inlet being distinguished.
On the 22nd Cape Colan, the west ])oint of the
inlet, was reached, and a dej)6t of ja-ovisions left for
the return journey. The shore-lumnnocks extended in
a line ])arallel to the general direction of tlie land, but
at a distance of about three miles from the aj)parent
coast-line, leaving a fairly level sledge road along
shore, which, had it not been for the extremely soft
snow, would have ])ermitted as ra])id an advance as
arctic sledges farther south had usually made. The
snow continued soft as long as the coast-line was j)ro-
tected from the prevailing wind ; to the wx^stward of
12
VOYAGE TO TIIE POLAIi SEA.
April
Cape Coluiiibia it was hard, and afforded fair travel-
ling.
It was often difficult to decide whether they were
travelling over land or ice. From the formation which
we observed taking place later in the season, when the
early thaw changed the ii])])er crust of the snow into
ice, above which the smnmer torrents afterwards de-
posited soil and gravel, it is jjrol^aljle that the whole
coast-line between the shore-hunmiocks and the high
land is a combination of tlio two and formed in a similar
manner.
On the 22nd, when near Cajie Colan, Aldrich re-
marks : —
' While camping I dug down, and found the snow to
vary from one to four and-a-half feet in thickness. At
the latter depth I came to Avhat I at first thought was
land, but which turned out aftenvards to be a. thin
layer or covering of soil or mud lying on top of the
hard ice. This may jiossiljly have been washed down
from the hills. We are alioiit half a mile from the
shore, which slopes very gradually iij) from the ice.
From the great changes in the de])th of the snow, the
floe would appear to be of a roimd, himimocky nature,
similar to a " blue top," and from the absence of
hunnnocks or floebergs j)robably never breaks up.
' I have called the coast-line "a])parent," as it is
difficult to determine where the land begins and the
ice ends.
' We now and again come across a crack, generally
about a foot or eighteen inches wide ; the?e, as a rule,
extend in a north and soutli direction. We sounded
the depth of one [ind found it to be foiu'teen feet.
'liii'
m
April
travel-
!y were
1 which
lieu the
ow into
rds cle-
! Avhole
lie high
L similar
[rich re-
snow to
ess. At
rrht was
a thin
of the
'd down
:om the
I the ice.
|i()w, the
nature,
'uce of
las it is
uid the
merally
a rule,
founded
n\ feet.
1870
LIEUT. GIFFARD PARTS COMPANY.
13
We could trace snow ten to eleven feet down, a great
fS deal o' which was ])robal)ly drift.'
On the -OlIi Gifl'ard and his crew, after comjileting
the other sledge to forty- four days' provisions, ])arted
conij)any, to return to the 'Alert.' On the last day of
their advance Aldrich writes : —
'No improvement in the travelling, and the sledge
came to a dead stoj) (jver and over again in the deep
soft snow, and this notwitlistanding the desire of all to
get as far as p<jssible, before parting company. Had
anyone been in the neighbourhood, and miacquainted
with the method of progression in this detestable
travelling, they would very probably have been as-
tonished at tlie constant shouts of " One, two, three,
haid ! "' varied by " Main to])sail, haul ! " etc., to relieve
the monotony of the same " old yarn." However, we
had the wliole cfjuntry to ourselves, and were at
perfect liberty to exj)en(l as nnich of our breath in
shouting as we could spare, without fear of awakening
or frightening anybody. Halted for luncheon at noon,
uj) to which time we had been steering inshore to find
a place to leave the depot. The whole of the land
was covered in snow, without the slightest sign of a
brow or other convenient spot, and we tlierefore altered
our course ])arallel to the coast.
' After lunch we ])roceeded till 4.30 p.m., and tlien
left tlie " Po[)})ie's " cook behind to make tea ready for
his sledgemates by their return. Halted a little after
5 P.M., when, after an exchange of hearty (;lieers and
good wishes, Lieutenant GifTard and liis [)arty took
their dejKirture, and left us to our solitjiry jonrney.'
I I'or the next seven days, when Cape Columbia
i
■'ft
■fF
— . —
14
VOYAGE TO TIIK ror.All SEA.
April
"il
II
was readied, Aldrich's sled<^e being fully laden, the
daily advance was very slow, as usual in similar
journeys, and the soft snow entailed very severe labour
on the crew. Two days afterwards when passing Cape
James Good, named after the petty officer, captain of
the sledge, Aldrich remarks : —
' The men are all very much done iij), the fact
being that, light loads or heavy loads, this thick snow
takes it out of one tremendously, and the constant
standing pulls shake one to pieces.
* The double journeys are most discouraging to the
men, and their looks of disapjiointment when, after
nine hours' labour, they find themselves only two and
a-half to three miles from where they started, show
how much more they would do if they coidd. The
air is very cold, and the sun very warm. The ther-
mometer hanging on my chest registered minus 12° ;
when on my back, minus 30".
' Half our daily journey is necessarily done with
the sun in our faces, causing a fevr slight cases of
snow-blindness.'
The 29th was the last day on the outward joiu'ney
that they were obliged to advance with half-loads at a
time ; they were then a few miles east of Cape Columbia.
Aldrich observes : —
' A great deal of mirage to the north-west ; its
effects in some ])laces led us to think there were very
extensive pools of water out on the heavy floes. It
required careful watching for some minutes to dis])el
the illusion. The line of hummocks is visible thi'oe
and-a-lialf to four miles distant. I iluf^ down throuLdi
tlie snow, whicli I found to be exju'tly four feet dee]),
Hiu
jllfl!
ArRiL
1870
WESTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY.
15
1, the
imiliir
aboiir
; Cape
:aiii of
e fact
: snow
)nstant
to the
, after
NO and
, show
. The
e ther-
is 12"' ;
le
with
of
ases
oiirney
ids at a
linnbia.
lest ; its
very
tes. It
dis])el
tln-ce
hroiiifh
I 1..
It dee]),
getting much harder and more com])act below the
surfVu'e tl>an before Between it and the ice was a
space of over two inches. The latter gave me tlie
ini])ression of being young, and not of the blue-topped
descri])tion. Lines of sastrugi north-west and south-
east, wliicli is about parallel to the line of hummocks.
' The temperature of the air while travelling was
minus 15°. When encamj)ed at mid-day it rose to 40°
on the sunny side of the tent inside. Positive luxury !
' 'dOth. — The north-west wind died away in the
niijfht. Started at 6.50 a.m. with the whole load. The
sledge does not appear to get much lighter ; I suspect
tlie increase in weight of robes and bags, &c. (small jis it
is compared with autunni travelling), fully conijiensates
for the provisions consumed to the present, and that it
is as heavy, if not heavier, than when we left the sliip.
However, we all pulled witli a will, and were en-
couraged by the travelling improving at almost every
step. Camped at 3.30 r.M. Made good three antl
a-half miles.
'This was a short march, partly on account of
shifting our travelling hours still farther into night
travelling, and partly on account of its being Sunday.
My men are all in capital spirits ; the imjiroved travel-
ling, the warmer weather, and ])rospects of getting on,
all tending to a ra])id rise in the "social barometer,"
which, in our small comnumity, is as desirable as
welcome. I read the Evening Service after sup})er.
'The Sergeant-Major has just shown me a very
uglj^-looking red i)atch or blotch just above the ankle ;
tlie limb is slightly swollen.
" M'lf/ Iv^-'riic (piestionablc pleasure of )iavin<»' a
hf
16
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
Mat
m
man dancing on you wlien bru.sliing down the con-
densation ct)llected on the inside of tlie tent was
dispensed witli this morning, there being none to brush
down. Under weigh at 3.20 a.m., got abreast Cape
Aldrich at 4 A.M., and then steered for a bare patch
on the brow of the low spit which runs off the caj^e,
and nearly due north of it, and reached the foot of the
ascent at 5.20 a.m.
; ' Found some difficulty in securing the depot, as
there was not a stone to be Iiad ; the ground was very
hard, and composed of soil and very small shingle,
with here and there a thin covering of ice, pro-
bably caused by the snow melting in the sun and
freezing again before it could sink into the hard frozen
ground. On this mixture the pickaxe made but very
little impression, and it took four of us, working in
spells, two and a-half hours to get a hole ten inches in
depth and large enough to place the bottom of tlie
gutta-percha case in, wrapped up in an extra coverlet.
" Treboggined " down the hill on the empty sledge,
packed sledge, lunched, and started at 9.15, being
lighter by about 300 lbs. We were not at all sorry to
get under weigh again ; securing the de]j6t was too cool
to be pleasant. Temperature minus 15°. Whid, force
6, from the N.W., and a cutting drift. We now had
a very heavy drag up the low spit, which extends from
Cape -Aldrich for one or two miles towards the north,
and curves to the eastward. We reached the top at
11 A.M., and were disappointed to find we could only
see land five miles ahead, bearing about W. by N.,
and terminating in a bold lugh cnyic, since named
m
lH7(i
CAPE COLUMBIA.
17
tlie con-
tent was
to brush
ast Cape
xre patch
the cape,
)ot of the
depot, as
was very
. shingle,
ice, pro-
sun and
rd frozen
but very
)rking in
inches in
n of tlie
coverlet,
y sledge,
5, being
1 sorry to
s too cool
ind, force
now had
nids from
le north,
lie top at
ould only
'. by N.,
•0 named
"CHj)e Columbia,"' and wliicli proved to be the mo^^t
iR)rtliern point attained.
' Travelling across hard sastrugi, which ran more in
line with the land, and jiatches of level snow, as hard
and nearly as slip])ery as ice. Over this we Hew ah)ng,
and our spirits rose as rapidly as ever they (Ud on a
. good lead opening up north for the ship, on liei- way
■b up Smith Sound.
' As we drew near Cape Columbia we opened out
a conical hill, having the appearance of an island,
distant about tiiirty miles, and inunediately afterwards
a succession oi' vnpes or blufls. Tlie fbruiei- was in
transit witli Cajie Columbia N. 10° E. by (.'onipass, the
extreme of the latter X. 15° E., and about twenty
miles off; so that the coast-line runs as nearly due west
as ])ossible. The hummocks continue to tlie X.W.,
and get farther from the land.
' Off Ca|)e Columbia, at a distance of about 100
yards from the shore, the ice is of the older type, l)ut
h{is been merely pressed uj) against the fringe of loose
stone and rubble which surrounds tlie ca])e, without
being liroken into hunnnocks, but leaving large cracks
and fractures. Inside tlie fringe above mentioned, is a
sheet of hard and perfe<*tly smooth ice, but extending
only for a very short distance. We reached the cape
at 3 P.M.,aiRlcam])edon the old floe, just outside of the
cracks.
'From observation to-day I place the cajjc in lati-
tude 83-7 X., longitude TOvlO W.
'At about two and-a-half miles to the eastward of
Cape C()luml)ia, and about 200 feet above the ice level,
the snow api)ears to have fallen or s]ip])ed, lea\ing a
VOL. II. c
18
VOYAGE TO THE rOr.AK SEA.
May
|)er[)LMi(li('iiliir wall some liundred.s of yiirds in length,
aiul of coiisulcnible lieiifjit. 1 at lirst thouijlit it was
a tremeiulous snow-drift; oriufinally, ])erha])s, it may
have been, but now it is either (•()m])ressed snow or
bluish ice, and resembles the face of a uflacier.
'As the weather gives every promise of being fine,
I intend remaining off Cape Columbia to-morrow, and
to ascend Coo|)er Key Peak, from which we shall get
a splendid view. The whole crew are st) anxious to
come, I told them to draw lots for one to remain with
the tent ; poor Doidge is much down on his luck,
having been " elected" to stay behind. The Sergeant-
uLijor's leg still gives him no pain, but the angry red
colour lias s[)read considerably ; I do not like the look
of it at all. I have given him turpentine liniment to
rub in, which he uses with a will.
' ''Ind. — During breakfast a fog-bank ap])eared on
the N.W. horizon, and it clouded over ; the wind
freshened, and shortly afterwards the increasing mist
rendered any attem[)t to go up the peak useless. We
were all very disa[)pointed, but we coidd not aflford
time to v.ait for the weather to clear. Under weiuli at
3.20 A.M. Temperature minus 10°.
' After travelling a short distanc^e over the old ice,
which was covered with level but s])ongy-looking snow,
we got on to excellent ice some forty or fifty yards
broad, over which the sledge followed me at a rate of
about three miles an hour. This, however, only lasted
for half-a-mile, when we came to moderately hard
sastrugi, running parallel to the land, with a little soft
snow on toj). By this time the fog had come down
and rendered all things and everything of no colour.
May
--v^^"
187(5
iCE-w.vvrs.
11)
it was
it may
low or
i<l fine,
iW, and
all L'et
ious to
II Avitli
s luck,
rf£eaiit-
fvy red
lie look
uient to
a red on
e Avind
•f mist
We
afford
leiu'li at
i()ld ice,
snow,
yards
Irate of
lasted
ly liard
Itle soft
down
;olour.
:i
I was about two miles ahead of the sU'dire, hut could
see nothintjr and do nothiuLS so turned back and sought
refuge in the (h'ag-belt and tlie conij)any of my sledge
crew. Steered by sastrugi, which I had observed ran
directly y/v>//i the [)oint for which we wanted to siia))e
a course. With a very little care this plan answered
admirably, and enabled us to go on knowing we were
losing no ground.'
On the 7th the canij) was jiitclicd a mile east of
Cape Alexandra. Aldrich writes : — ' We crossed a
fox track and a few lemminir tracks to-dav. These
are the only signs of life we have come across for a
long time. The land is entirely covered in snow,
except a few bare places on the face of the clifls.
' Tlie healtli of the crew is very good, ex(,'ept stiff
legs, which are ])retty general, and only to be expected.
The two worst are the Sergeant-Major and Jas. Doidge.'
After passing Cape Albert Edward, Ahh-icli ivfers
to the extremely low and level character of the shore,
and tlescribes a remarkable formation of what he desii>*-
nates ' ice-waves.'
' Several low ridges from thirty to forty feet high,
and varying from a few hundred yards to about a mile
in length, show u\) in front of the cliffs. Their general
(Urcction is S.E. and X.W., hence on the east coast
of the bay they extend at, or nearly at, right angles
from the land, while to the south-westward they are
nearly parallel with it. I imagine these ridges are
coin[)Osed of hard ice under the snow, though I had
no means of penetrating it to a sufficient depth to find
whether or no land lay underneath.
'In passing betweeii Ward Hunt Island and the
0 2
V M
20
VOYAME TO TIFK POI-AK SEA.
May
\il
iiuiin land, we crossi'd a i-idu'e about thirty feel liiirh,
and iialt'-u-iiiile ill width, which extends tor a mile I'rom
about the middle of the south shore of the island.
'Jliinkiiiif it was land, I du<jf down throuuii three feet
of snow, and came to ice. Similar lookiuL' rid^vs
extend to the eastward and westward.
'8///. — A i)erfect morninir. 'J'eni|)erature minus
15°. Under weigh at o.2(). Crossed another ice wave ;
dui; down, and came to ice under three feet of hard
and compact snow. Travellin;^' very good, though not
very sli|)))ery. I cannot make out where the land
L'\Hh and ice begins; a second time to-day I sounded
Avith our shovel, to liiid ice on a slope not lifty yards
from where bare stones wei'e visible. 'J'here is no
crack but the shelving land a|)pear.s to blend with the
ice, which rises in the form of a roller, with a second
roller behind it, exactly as water i"olls on a beach after
a breeze of wind. The line of hummocks is between
live and six miles off", and does not seem to differ from
those fai'ther east. Floes ex(;eedingly small, and the
fringes between them very close and numerous.
'After lunch we crossed two cracks, which extend
northward, and h-ok fresh. Got on to rising ground
in an hour. In walking ahead I came to what
apj)eared like a I'avine in our path. Altered course
down an incline to clear it, then bejjfan a iifradual
ascent u]) low land, which extends two to three miles
from the hills, and in the form of rollers like the ice-
Avaves before mentioned. We dragged up hill till 2 P.AI.,
Avlien we cam])ed. I walked on about two miles after
camping ; the ascent being so gradual, I got scarcely
any better view for so doing. The hummocks ap})ear
:^
i.
i
May
isrii
WllSTEKX SLKDfiK .J( HJlfXKV.
21
.'t lii,L'li,
le IVoiu
islaiul.
vv fcot
ridges
ininiis
\v;ive ;
)l" liunl
u_L!"li not
lie liiiul
sou IK led
V yartls
' is no
vitli the
second
eh after
)et\veen
er from
and tlie
extend
rround
what
course
gradual
miles
the ice-
12 p.m.,
:^s after
icarcely
ap})ear
^'
)
2
to 1)0 closiuL' in towards the land, and promise to be
very near the next cajie or |)oint.
' The iiiound round the de|)ot is beaut iful-lookiutj
soil, with small shin^irle, last year's saxifraL^'e and
])o|)|>y, and this yeai''s moss, which latter was of
such a biilliant u"reen we all thoroughly enjoyed
looking at it. It did our eyes good. A solitary
leniminii tiack was the only siirn of 'animal life. The
countiT <yves no ])romise of game Avhatever, although
I had a good look all about Avhile the dej)6t was being
secured.
' <)///,. — Under weigh at 3.25. Continued our ascent
])arallel to, and about one and-a-half miles from the
hills, until nearly lunch-time, when we got a irood
view of the (hstant land. Afterwards Ave jiroceeded
along level and very fair travelling, over moderately
hard snow, until at 10. oO a.m. we came to a stee])
descent of ti u'ood 200 feet, the result of all our
uphill work, Avhich Ave had hoped Avould have slo|)ed
doAvn gi'adually instead. It Avas necessary to back
the sledge doAvn ; the men sitting on the snoAV, hauling
back on the drag-ro])es. When tAvo-thirds of tlie
Avay doAvn, the men became a little too confident,
and the Avhole apjjaratus took charge. Fortunately,
nothing caught the runners, and no harm resulted, but
the astonishment Avhich its capers caused the creAV Avill
])robal)ly induce tliem to be more careful on similar
occasions.
' We noAV crossed OAer a series of undulatin<jf rollers
of loAvland, which Avere ])arallel to one another, and
extended to the nortlnvard about tAvo miles from the
hills. The travelling during the latter part of the day
22
VDYAfJK TO THE I'OT.AI? SEA.
May
lias not hci'ii so <j[oo(l, tin* sistni^n which extends east
and "Nvost lu-iiiu' very deep and rn<fti'ed.
' Altlionn-h tired, everyone ^vas loth to <jfo into the
tent, the snn l)ein;jf warm enon^h to admit of a com-
fortable pipe outside.
' The ;jfround over which we have lately travelled,
risiii<jf as it does <jfradually from the eastward, and
terminating^' in a steep descent to the -westward,
may 1)q worthy of observation, as also the* existence
of the mnnei'ous ridL^es and rollers of land and ice,
Avhich abound hereabouts. The snow-drifts about
Ca|)e Stephenson are veiy heavy, and of considerable
de])th. The cape is about 800 feet hijih, and the hills
close to the eastward of it range from 400 to 000
feet.'
Although an outbreak of scurvy was not then an-
tici])ated, the unsatisfactory condition of the men was
causing Aldrich much anxiety. On the lOtli lie
writes : —
' The men are nearly all suffering a great deal with
their unfortunate legs, which appear to get worse
every day. This we all feel to be very disappointing,
as it affects the journey, and although stiff limbs were
ex])ected, everyone thought the stiffness would wear off
in time. It seems, how^ever, inclined to hang on, and
sets at defiance all the limited medical skill we ])ossess
among us, and to scorn succumbing to tur|)entine lini-
ment, bandages, good " elbow grease," etc. The legs
get a little more comfortable after being a short time
imder weigh ; but, somehow, the men do not appear
up to the mark. Ayles and I are the only tw^o who
eat all the pemmican Ave can get. I should like the
!$
■^
187(1
WKSTKli.N SLKlKiK .lOlKNEV
'23
men to Ikivc m rest, but too iiuicli t'mic Wiis lost in
the oiitH't to iulniit of it.
' Dmv l)v (liiy wc look foi'M'iird to the liiiid citlior
ijoiiiuf noi'tli or south ; l)iit liitliiM'to wv liiive \)vvu
triivc'llini' iiotliiiiu hut ^v('st. or mtv little southerly of
it. C'iiiuj)e(l at 2 I'.M. about two miles iVom Ca|)e
lii( 'hards.
' The liue of hummocks n])])ears to he uearinuf the
land, so Ave are looking" out Ibr some decided altei'atioii
iu the treud of the coast-liue. When we first left the
ship our ho|)i>s pointed to a north-runniu^jf coast; now,
as our outward journey aj)proaches an end, Ave shall
rejoice to see it iro either Avay, except east and
"West.
'11///. — The travellinj^f is excellent, smooth, level,
and "with the sol't snow oidv two to three inches
t'
dee|).
'At noon reached the old floe, which is pres.sed
11]) airainst the land, broken in several ])laces by cracks,
and has fon^ed u]) small ridires and hea])s of stones and
shiiiiifle, but without forming u sinirle hunnnock.
' A short di.stance outside us are a few isolated
hummocks or lloebero-s, with heavy snow-drifts around
them ; but the actual line of hunnnocky ice is still
about two miles from the shore. We found the travel-
liiifjf very fair, and skirted along the edge of the shelv-
ing land.
' 12th. — Temperature plus 12°. Strong "VN'ind from
the south-west. A continuance of yesterday's disagree-
able weather. Thick, and a stinging drift in our faces.
Our travelling was none the better from the entire
absence of lisfht and shadow. Proceedinii a short
24
VOYACK TO THK rOLATJ SEA.
Mvr
il 1
distniu'o nhm^i the lloc of vcstci'diiy, we hcnnn to round
the low 1:111(1 ill tin.' diivrtioii of the ciipc, vvliicli we
saw now mid tlicii. We soon jirrivcd o' h' dcc))!}'-
scoivd iiiid IiiU'd stistriioi, on Avliicli we lound it iiiipos-
sihlc to iiiiikc ccrliiiii of our iootinj^', iiiid tlio wjiy wo
all loll and lunil)k'(l aboiil would have hcoii ludicrous
liad it not been so tircsonio. 'i'liis work was not at all
L'ood foi* the " jianio le^s,'' as the iiu-n call them ; the
{^er^jfeaiit, Good, and Doid^^^ suH'ered especially. We
reached Ca|)e Faiishawe Martin ahoiil four hours after
startin<f.
' A |H'rpendicular wall of ice, between lifteeii and
twenty feet lii^jfli, and some seventy yards in length,
()C('U])ies the dij) between tlie hind risin< ) the cape
and the shelving huid round which we travelled.
This looks like the face of a. miniature <jlacier, and
is situated about thirtv or forty yards from the floe.
Fo^' ])revented our seeing (Uiything but the wall
itself.
* After rounding Ca])e Fanshawe Martin we crossed
the tail of a low spit, which extends alH)ut a mile to
the uorthward, and "followed the trend of the coast,
which from here was about south-west (true). Halted
for lunch at S.'Ii) a.m., and ])itche(l the tent.
' I ])icked U]) the leaf of a willow to-day, which
shows there must be bare ])laces somewhere ; but the
.snow-drifts in this iieiiiiiboui'hood arc tremendous.
' Thoufjh the line of hummocks is somewhat closer
in, there ap])ears to be a great similarity in the condi-
tion and quality of the ice here and oil' Cape Columbia.
]3etween the two capes is a distance of nearly eighty
miles, and about midway between the two lies Ward
III '^
Mvv
4
~a
isrtt
WKSTKRX sm:i)(;k JOUKNKY.
25
Hunt iNliiiid. Tlu' ('onst-liiK' is hi-okcii by llirco hays,
two of wliicli iirc of coiisidci'Mhlc cxti'iil ; iiiid oil" tliu
|)oiiits, tiiid now Jind si^'iUM for a few continuous miles,
Mi-c |)i-ojt'('tinj.f l(»w spits iind ice i'id)j:i's. Tlic hiunniocks
do not come in close to Ward Hmit Island, its northern
iiice l)ein,u^ j)rotectt'd aj)i)arently by one of the usual
i'endefs.
'|.")M. — TemiH'ratnre (\°. The same jjerslstent
head wind, and a fo,L' which would rival the densest
specimen vwv experienced in London on a November
day. The crew ai'e K'ss lively in spirits than usual ; I
fancy the misei'able weathei\ their still' lejis, and extra
wear and tear due to so much foLS all combine to
subdue them a little. I should like to j^nvu them ji
rest, but they are as anxious as I am to <fet on. Under
wei<:h at 3.o() A.M. Weather cleared a little. Steered
to cross the usual incline, which runs from Caj)e
l^icknor, the extreme ))oint now in siirlit. I ivmained
behind to ^'et a sketch of the land, t^-c., and on over-
takiuix the sledjjfe found it makiu<jf but slow ])ro^n*ess.
The Ser<xeant and Doid^jfe stru*r<,de manfully on ; l)ut
they are not uj) to much, and there are a, few more
not much better. The actual \vei<,dit on the sledjje is
nothin^f comparatively, but it is the inability to walk
rather than drajj^ well which im])edes the })arty. We
in time came to a ])iece of down-hill, on our descent to
another bay or inlet, a portion of which easy travelling
I reserved for to-morrow, to ease the stiff le_ijs at
starting. Shall make a short march to-morrow, in
the hojies it may do the men good. It will be their
first spell since leaving the ship.
' 14th. — Eonsed cook at 3 a.m., hs
•n ft"
2G
VOYAfJE TO THE TOLAlf SEA.
Mat
ill
liniuls an extra two lioiirs and a-lialfs sleep. Wind
oone, but tlie dull leaden weather remains. A Sunday
m()rniii<r, with a desultory eonversation <ioin<j on while
AvaitiuiX for ])emniiran, now of En<fland, now of fresh
food and veiretablcs — a ])retty ronstant topic — and an
oocasional lamentation as to the wretched .state of the
le<is, witli an ex])ectation that they may be the only
cases, and the fear that in consequence their work will
not bear coni])ai'ison with that ])erforined by the
other sledires and former Arctic travellers. About
(i A.M. the mist cleared offjiradually, and the sun burst
I'orth after an absence oi' sevei'al days,
' Under weiirli at (5.15 a.m., and the sledge went
merrily down tlie hill ; but I rejjentod my decision of
last ninht to kee]) easy work for a start, for the sledge
was too lively for the unfortimate cripples, some of
whom Avere in ])ositive agony. After })roceeding about
a mile we reached the level floe of a bay seven to
eight miles dee]), with steep cliffy shores and hills
rising from 40v) to 1,000 feet in height. These hills,
like all those we have met with, do not run in ranges,
but are scattered irregularly about, and separated and
cut up by ravines in all directions. The south-west
])oint is low and shelving, and just open of it, about
twenty miles distant, shows out another ca])e, which I
have ])ointed out to the men as the spot from which
I shall be i)erfectlv satisfied to turn back.
' The bay we are crossing is Milne Bay of the
chart. The travelling would be veiy good were it not
for frequent soft ])atches of snow, into which we some-
times sink above our knees. A snow-bimting flew
within twenty yards of the sledge, and is the first
iiitl
May
1870
THE I'ICKAXE LEFT BEHIND.
27
about
en to
liills
hills,
-auges,
h1 and
i-west
about
licli I
which
liviiiL' crcatnre Ave have set eyes on since leaving the
"P()])])ies."
' To///.— Tcnij)eratnre niiinis 0°. Bright snnshine
and cahii. EveiTthing hoisted np to dry. Travelling
a little better tliaii yesterday. Misty about the horizon
iceward.
' On camping in Yelverton Bay, a very foir journey,
the i)ickaxe Avas found to have been left behind at the
last encampment, Avhere it had been used for securing
the tent guy to. I ])re])ared for a walk back, but the
crew all wanted to go instead, so I ultimately arranged
to take Ayles with me to-morrow, while the sledge
goes on ; we should ])ick them uj) by cam])ing-time.
The men have, I think, been all the better for their
rest vesterday. Xo snow-l)Iin(lness except my own —
mv eves beiii<f extremely ])ainful.
' l{')th. — Gave Good orders to take the sledge on,
Avitli six hands, for the extreme i)oint ; ])roceed the
usual eleven hours, or, in the event of fog, cam]).
' Ayles and I started off for tlie pickaxe with our
luncheons. Arrived at ])revious encam]mieiit after
four and-a-lialf hours' Avalking ; from the tnivelling
and ])ace we had coujt I put it at ten statute miles.
Just a.s we got the ])ickaxe a jnifT of wind came from
the north-east, and a fog bank to iceward made us
hurry on our way back. The wind soon increased to
a moderate gale, with a very high drift, which
threatened to destroy our friend the sledge tracks.
About an hour afterwards we lost sight of the extreme
of land, so I concluded Good would camp.
' lleached our morning starting-])oint in nine hours,
where we halted, standing with our backs to the wind,
i
28
VOYAGE TO THE POLAK SEA.
Mat
for five minutes 1o eat some ])emmi('nii, biscuit, &('.
Two hours afterwords we ])asse(l their ltnK'heon-])la('e,
and then found they had pfone on under sail, before a
wind whicli was now blowinuf a fresli j^ale, Avith tre-
mendous drift. My companion began to show sijj: is of
fatigue (wliich witli Ayles means a great deal), but we
train])ed on before the gale at .attling ])ace.
' We followed the meandering sledge track for
nearly another two hours, with compai'ative ease, after
which Ave lost it Aery frequently from its being entirely
obliterated for yards at a time. Our ])lan noAV Avas
for Ayles to stand still, Avhile I Avalked round in a
circle until Ave foimd the track again. We had almost
pre])arcd oiu'selAes for an imcomfortable lodging in
the snoAV, by the aid of our friendly j)ickaxe, Avhen
the tent came in sight, atxnit fifty yards distant. Just
as Ave saAv it a gun Avas fired, and the boatsAvain's
mate's pipe sounded above and among an unearthly
yelling, and the roAV of the Avind — a continuation of
the programme they had been assiduously carrying out
in case Ave miirht be passino;.
' We arrived after an absence of fourteen hours ;
and never were men more rejoiced, I ])elieve, than
tliey Avere Avhen they saAV us. Although they had
been cam])ed for some three hours, there they Avere,
seated anyhoAv, Avithout having shifted or eaten any-
thing, and as anxious as they could be. The cook
liustled out into the drift and gale, only too glad to
have the chance of giving us all our su])j)er; and hot
tea and penimican soon ])ut all to-rights. After a
short yarn as to the day's proceedings, Ave rolled our-
selves up and slumbered peacefully, and fully appre-
I
May
1876
WESTEHX SLEDGE JOUIJNEY,
29
41
m
ciatiiiu- the coiutorts oi' our Arctic tent. The sail had
driven tlie ,sled</e very fast — in fact, too fast for some
of them. They proceeded till the re^ixular time was u]),
having made good (to judge by our walking) ten
miles.
' I't/i. — Temperature 12°. Jilowing a whole north-
east gale all night ; so although Ayles and I were late
returning ycstei'day, we have lost no time. The ])orch
was completely lilled w'th di'ift., which formed a wall
quite three feet thick, thi'ough which the cook and
I burrowed out with a shovel. The drift was still
l)h)\ving some fifteen to twenty feet iibove the floe,
hidinu" evervthin<f a few yards distant, thoua'h Ji briuht
sun was t lying to |)eiietrate through, and there a])peared
])lenty of blue sky overhead. The sledge was all but
buried.
' After half a pipe in the tent, digging out sledge,
dkc., made sail, but the gale broke half an hour after,
as suddenly as it beiran, and the men were not sorry
to resume their drag belts. The drift has made the
travelling soft and heavy in jdaces, but in others it is
as hard as ever. It is worth observing that in no case
(lid bare ice show out, which leads me to think the
floes in the bays are not round-topj)e(l, or being so,
the hiUocks are small and the snow very deep on
them. Another thing is the entire absence of even
isolated hummocks, v^■hich would seem to indicate
either that the water is too sjiallow to admit of their
being drifted in, or that the ice in the bays is of great
thickness, and the influence of tide so little felt that it
does not break up from year to year.
' 18^'^ — Taking into consideration the state of the
I
:^()
VOYAGE TO THE POLAIl 8EA.
May
(Tew, and the quantity of provisions remuininjj, I think
it advisable to turn back for the ship to-day. The
biscuit renuiining is live days' full allowance, which
with a healthy crew would be ani[)le, but looking, as I
must, to inarches not much better tiian we have been
perlbnning lately, it will have to last ten days.
' With this in view, I left the tent pitched, and Mann
(who is not fit to march, but better than last night),
to look after the gear, while with the sledge, cooking
gear, luncheons, pickaxe, &c., the rest of us Avent on
for a half-journey to try and reach a ])lace for building
a cairn, and to get a little more extended view of the
coast-line. A very clear and beautiful day. After
seeinjz Mann comfortable, riud leavin«j him means of
cookinuj his tea, I soon overtook Doidu'e and the
Sergeant limping along several hundi'ed yards in rear
of the sledge. 1 told tliem they had better go back,
but this they begged off, and continued their painful
journey. Overtaking ihe sledge I walked ahead up
a steady incline, which began about two miles from
the camp. After walking some four miles I came to
the conclusion there was no cai)e at all, but that the
coast-line trended roimd more to the southward after
clearing Yelverton Bay. The land was covei'ed deeply
in snow, and there was no ])lace within reach of
the party at all suitable for building a cairn.
' I was now 200 feet above the sea or ice-level,
and had a very good and careful look all round. Xo
land was \isible, excei)t the coast along which we were
travelling, my view of which extended about seven
miles farther than oiu' position, the trend being gradually
southward and westward.
Mav
I think
i. The
, wliich
n<,^ as I
,e been
(I Miiiiii
iii<rht),
cooking
^'eiit oil
juildiii;^'
iV of tlie
After
leans of
uul the
hi rear
) back,
painful
lead u])
from
anie to
lat the
d after
deeply
ach of
e-level,
a. Xo
e were
: seven
idually
1870
FAIITIIKST POINT REACHED.
31
3S
'The hue of liuininocks was about four miles off,
and ;ij)peared to iuciine sliufhtly to the southward in
the distance. The land itself is not hi^di, and there
bein;! no clilts, not a sjwck bare of snow was visible.
The hills sloj)ed ^^'rachiall}' from the ice, and the
lid^'e on which we were at the extreme of our journey
was a portion of nndulatin;^ low land, attached to the
coast, and continuinif south-west Avitli it.
' I turned back and met the sled;jfe. ILilted for
frrojJT and biscuit. Hoisted the Union Jack, and drank
Her Majesty's health.
' After lunch we sonnded, and came to solid ice,
■'■--I
SOUNDING FOB LAND.
under five feet of snow, but from the height and extent
of the riili/es, I shonld ima^i^-ine land lay underneath.
' Lookin^ii back on to the bay, I observed a series of
ice rollers, two of which we ci'ossed over vesterdav.
' The remainini? two or three niarchin<>- hours I o-ave
up to the men, who used them in patching nj) foot
gear, and other little things wlii(,*h had become neces-
sary.
' Our foot gear all became thoroughly wet t(j-day,
one may say for the first time. Tem[)eratnre in the
shade U°.
mi
32
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
May
Latitude of extreme point
Loiitjitude of extreme ])oiiit .
Latitude of farthest land seen
Loiijiitude of fai'tliest land seen
82° ir/ 0" N.
85° 83' 0" W.
82° 10' 0" N.
80° 30' 0" w;
! '■ 'I
•fill ■;
On the homeward journey the attack of scurvy
fjradually l)ecume uiore pronounced, and tlie fast
increasing Aveakness of the men rendered the daily
distance accomplished so short that the ])rovisions
])laced in de})6t on the ])assa<_^e out Avere insufficient to
last them, on full allowance, while travelling from one
depot to another. Doubtless the necessarily reduced
ratiou helped to accelerate the advance of the dreadful
uialady.
On the 30th Ward Hunt Island was reached, and
Aldricli's joiu'nal thus continues : —
' Had a hard clamber u]) a stee}) slo])e on the south
side of the island, which was covered with deep snow,
and reached the top of a ridge about GOO feet above
the ice, and which runs to the west in the direction of
the cone. I found this nearly bare of snow, and
com];)Osed of small stones and earth, similar to Crozier
Island, in James Eoss Bay. Vegetation was faii-ly re-
presented as regards quantity, in the poj)py, saxifrage,
.and small tufts of grass. I saw no actual tracks of
animals, but hares had evidently visited the locality,
though not recently. One or two snow-buntings were
flying about.
'The island, as far as I have seen, appears to be
formed of small rubble, &c. There is no sign of a
cliff, except at the north-west end, the rest being very
rounded. Like Crozier Island, and the low projections
M
■■■ i
May
)" N.
) " W.
)" N.
)" w;
scurvy
le fast
e daily
ovisioiis
cient to
om one
reduced
Ireadful
led, and
le south
|) snow,
above
lion of
iw, and
Crozier
rly re-
ifrat^e,
icks of
ocality,
jfs were
n
to be
of a
^f very
iections
■>,a
41
187(3
ALDRICIl'S IJKTUllN JOURNEY.
33
off the capes, it is steejier to tlie westward, and low and
shelving to the eastward ; and to whatever their forma-
tion may be due, they resemble one another in so
nniny ways that their existence may very probably
arise from the same cause.
' Camped at 7.30 P.M. Temperature 14°. Travel-
ling rather better, but the journey is not a very long
one. The men are regularly done.
' Our whiskers, moustaches, and beards are veiy
much lighter than their natural hues, and their delicate
" golden tint " imparts an air of cleanliness to our
features, which much require something of the kind to
do away with the sooty and begrimed a[)pearance of
our stearine-smoked coimtenances.'
On the 5th of June they ])assed Cape Columbia on
their return ; and on the 7 th the dreaded "word ' scurvy '
was used for the first time.
Aldrich's journal continues : — ' Temperature 23°.
A veiy sjjlendid day can see to within thirty miles of
the ship, a fact I have impressed on the men, with good
effect. Observed a large bird some distance off, it llew
something like a gull. Snow-bunting are numerous on
the land.
' Camped about one mile W.S.W. of Point Stubbs.
A curious afternoon ; sudden and very thick fogs,
breaking occasionally to gi\e us an hour or so of
magnificently clear weather.
' We are all very agreeably sur[)rised at the state
of tlie travelling, which has vastly improved in our
absence. The snow is fine-giained, and eight to ten
inches dee|).
' I have heard many mild complaints of late as to
vol.. II. D
■'m
U
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
June
the cfTects of the peinmicaii ; hitterly everyone, ex('ej)t
Ayles and I, sufTer more or less. I attribute it to
weakness. Had we had the good fortune to ])rof'ui'e
game, I (hiresay this would not have been experienced ;
but where game is not to be got, I believe an oeeasional
change to preserved mesit might be beneliciul. An-
otlier symptom which has become appjirent yesteitlay
and to-day with fom* of the crew, is tender gums,
which I hope may be due to tlie increased allowance of
biscuit. Hithert(3, while rather short of it, we always
soaked it in tea or pemmican to make it go farther,
now we eat it, or some of it, without softening it. I
hope it is not scurvy, though Jas. Doidge asked me the
question to-day, " Is scurvy ever got wdiile sledging,
sir?"
' I answered in ])ei'fe(^t : 'uth in one sense, though
not in another, " No," and attributed everything to the
hard biscuit. All hands have been in the drag-ropes
to-day.
' 8th. — The tem):)erature is 3 degrees above freezing-
point, and the wet snow forms a bad road ; it ai)]iears
to change marvellously quickly with the temperature.
' Could not get on at all ; halted, unpacked, and
loaded to 300 lbs. This was nearly as bad. Took
everything off the sledge except the cooking gear, and
a few small things.
'At 10 Stubbs came to me very ill, and I was
obliged to excuse him from the drag-ropes. Shortly
after, the Sergeant became out of breath, and too
weak to get on, so I sent him back ready for the second
load. After taking a spell, finding Ayles and I could
get on (piicker l)y ourselves, I sent them all back,
.June
1870
ALDRICIl'S 1U:TUR\ JOURNEY.
35
back,
wliile lie and I (lra<;^'o(l the sledge and tnun])ed down
a road. Halted, unpacked, and back for the remainder
of the gear, which came up .slowly but surely. After
lunch, started with whole load, snow a little ciuspur.
Got along tolerably for half an hour, then came to a
dead sto]). Canted sledge on to the medical box, and
scraped the runners, which in some places had as nuich
as three inches' thi(!kness of ice on them imderneath,
which assisted in enlarging the tremendous cakes of
snow the sledge forced before it. A se(;ond time we
did this, and at the end of an hour we had advanced
just ten yards. However, we got on nuicli better after-
w^ards.
' 9#/t. — I ought to ]Hit Stubbs on the sledge, the
Sergeant ought to be put there too, but there is not
strength enough left to drag them. Came across
nmnerous deep ])laces, which cost us much trouble to
get through. I foiuid it a good thing dragging the
sledge over the shovel occasionally. Pitched tent for
lunch. Stubbs is perfectly easy, so he says, though I
daresay he does not feel as well as he wishes to make
out, as he puts a very good face on things in general.
After lunch, the Sergeant and Mann both gave in,
leaving live of us on the drag-rojjes, Ayles and I
becoming permanent leading men. Did a very good
afternoon's w^ork, considering all things. Temperature
down to ])his 27°. We had the tent ])itched by the
time the sick came U[). Gmns very tentler, which
prevents the allowance of biscuit being eaten. It
will be observed, that it is the bluejackets who hang-
out— the marine, shipwright, and blacksmith being
disal)led.
u -2
r< I
I , ,i
il':.
3G
V0YA(}1': TO Till'] I'OLAR SEA.
JlTNB
' U)th. — Under wei^'li at 9.55, tliruo invalids follow-
ing. Poor Stubbs requires all his eourage and endui-aiiee.
Several times as we went on, Ayles and I sardc nearly
ii[) to our hij)s, but occasionally we came to long
stretches of good hard ti'avelling, and we camped
abreast Point Moss at 9.80.
' 11/A. — We are looking forward to news from the
shi]) as we draw near oui' dejxjt, — something to give
us a change to the conversation, which tumbles into
the same groove ])retty well every night. Kead the
Morning Service.
' After lunch, the travelling became nuich haixler
and better, which enabled us to make a good journey,
and brought us abreast the Cape Colan dejxjt at 11.30,
all very fagged. I walked up to it while the tent
was being pitched, with the intention of getting the
letters, &c., but I found Lieutenant GifTard had erected
such a magnificent structure, that I coidd make but
little impression on it, and contented myself with his
note, which I found attached to the staff.
' There were severtd hare tracks round the cairn.
Good is thoroughly knocked up again, antl can eat
nothing. Made good five miles.
' Vlth. — Temperature of the air 25°, in the tent 51°.
Left invalids in the tent. Eemainder of us u]) to the
depot, which was all right except the lime-juice jar
broken in the neck. Fortimately none of the contents
were spilt. Packed sledge, read news to the crew.
All hands glad to hear " Discovery " was all right, and
communication established. Their success with the
musk-oxen caused our mouths to water. We feel the
increased load very nnich, the sledge is heavier by 400
i
JUNB
187ti
AI-DIJICII.S KKTUIJN JOUKNKY.
87
the
lbs., wliicli, with tlie coiistMiits, brink's ii]) tlic total to
1,000 lbs., or u loiul of 200 lbs. \)iiv iiiiiii.
'l;]M. — Breakfasted oU' 0 lbs. of jji-eserved meat
^vhi(•ll had been forwarded with the (le[)ot. Everyone
relished the change, and ate well.
' A heavy fall of snow, and a dense fo<? puts an end
to my only chance of getting; down the inlet. We have
not been fortunate in our weather as far as foji; is
concerned. Took the collapsible boat ofT the sledge,
iitted her with drag-ropes, a,nd with a light load gave
her in charge of the three worst invalids, who managed
to keej) together and get along slowly, but causing us
to lose much time by waiting for them. Got ou very
fairly till eight o'clock, when Good nearly fainted.
There a])])ears to be utter inability to get breath, no
pain, and no difficulty to speak of in breathing when
at rest. The least exertion brings it on. I am half
afraid we shall not get on board without assistance, for
whicli either Ayles or myself will have to widk in. An
entirely lost day, one way and another. Made good
a mile and-a-half.
' Notwithstanding the sickness, the consimiption of
food to-day has been veiy large.
' 14/A. — Order of travelling the same as yesterday.
Snow hard and good, seldom letting one in above the
ankle. Pitched tent for lunch ;nid to wait for invalids.
'Made good way again after lunch, until within a
mile of Sail Harbour, when we came into the most
villainous snow% which caused nothinir but standing
hauls. In this oiu' comfort greatly de])ended on keep-
iii<jf way on the sledue, and our struggles to do so
would have been ludicrous t
'f-r^'
o anyone not engag
ed hi
38
VOYAriE TO TUV. POLAR SEA.
JUNR
' in
tliem. Aylo.s juid I k'juliii^% often ^ot in iioarly up to
oiif middles, wo coidd not iiilord to stopliiiidiii^^ wliich
we continued on luuids and knees, until we ^'ot on to
a iirmer footing-, oi- canie to a liel|)less standstill. For
us it was bad enouj/li, but wlien the other three went
in, separately or altojjfether, they had barely time to
throw themselves clear of the runUers. Made <.'ood
four aud-a-half to five miles.
' Adaui Ayles has not been very well to-day, the
effects of beiujjj trodden on by an invalid in ^ettin<^ out
of the tent last night. I could ill aflbrd to lose his
services.
' loth. — Temperature inside the tent 67°. Mann
and Stubbs better. After reaching Sail Harbour we got
on with but little trouble, being delayed only by the sick
lagging behind. Waiting as we had to in a dense fog,
and with a cold east wind, was not comfortable after
the violent ])erspiration brought about by our exertions.
Halted at six for two hours. Under wei*di at eijjfht to
cross Parry Peninsida, but foiuid the hill too steep for
the small amount of strength we could connnand. The
strongest of us carried the gear up, and in one hour
had advanced our whole baggage about a quarter of a
mile.
' lC)th. — Under weigh at 2.55 • \f.. actually of the
17th, and proceeded downhil . standiiiL pidls
through deep soft snow. At la we renched me ice
in the small indentation on the east -ide of Parry
Peninsida, with very gootl travelling ; thence up
another sniall rise which we got up a few yards at a
time, by constantly waiting for some one or other to
recover breath. However, all things come to an end,
\H7i-,
ALDiiion's inmJi.'N .lonnNKY.
30
and on ivacliiiif/ the toj) of tlic liill 1 was uiad to turn
tlic invalids ofl'to tiu'ir boat a|iain.
' A loM'Iy L'veiiing. Made j/ood live to six niik's.
' 17///. — Started ofT tlio invalids ahead, while we
strnck tent and ))acke(l sled^^'. The tnivellin;^' in
s|)lendi{l order. Teniperatnre 21°.
'Overtook the invalids toilin<jf drearily alon^^ hy
the time we had cleared James Itoss Bay and be^^nni
the overland route immediately south of Observation
Peak. We are sin«j;ularly fortunate in the \veather ;
there is a dense fo^' everywhere ex('e])t in the valley
for which we are steering, some curious eddying of the
\\\f\\t air kee|)s it from settling- thei'e.
'J()sei)h Good and Doid<j;e are at the dra(;-roj)es,
but not |)ulling {in ounce; they are very |)lu(;ky, but
utterly unable to do anythin*^".
' Witli our small ])ow'er we had a very heavy pull
uj) the incline, the snow on which was, however, in
beautiful condition, hard and slippery enough to cause
Ayles and myself often to lose our footing. Had it not
been so I really do not know what we coidd have
done.
' Halted at 8.40 for lunch and invalids. Despatched
invalids ahead — it is dreary work, such constant wait-
ing. Not being able to leave the sledge, I cannot go
on to see the road. I hope we shall come out all
right, but to me the route is new, and whether GifTard
tried it or not I do not know. Under weigh at 10.30,
and proceeded as in forenoon, sto))])ing and waiting
contimially. Camped at two, and I walked on to see
the route, Avliich cost me three hours' heavy walking.
I was well repaid l)y finding it all clear, and nuich
i u\n
40
\T>YAG1': TO Till': POLAR SEA.
JUXK
preferable to the loii<jfer aiul iiujre tortuous journey by
Guide Hill. Siu'lited Conical Hill, and ]iavin<jr ascer-
tained my whereabouts, returned to the tent at live,
very tired and witli a s[)littin_L' headache, the effects of
a very j)()\verful sun. In\alids arrived five minutes
after me, liavinj^ occu])ied six hours and-a-half in
waliiing a distance Ave hauled the sledge slowly in two
hoiu's and-a-quai1er.
' Had Ave but one invalid, or perha])s two, we could
])ut them on the sledge. As it is, they must "walk, or
give in altogether, in which (nise I must send Ayles on
from View Point Depot, trusting in his intelligence,
strength, and endurance to reach the shi|j and ask for
assistance. When I spoke to him on the subject, he
expressed his readiness to stait, and I .'ave every con-
fidence hi the man ; he has been with me both in the
autumn and spring, and I cannot speak too highly of
him. Having the blessing of health, his assistan(;e to
iiie throughout has been and is imaluable ; aiul the
anything but cheering circumstances in whi(;h we are
placed enables me ^'illy to appreciate it. I keep an
anxious look-out on the AveaiJior, dreading the thaw
which must shortly set in, and which will soon render
the route between View Point and the ship very bad,
if not impassable.
'■ Sunday,- ISth. — Read the Morning Service. Re-
joicing in a cold morning, but it is thick and inclined
to snow. It is fortunate I Avalked ahead last night, as
we followed my tracks. James Doidge collajjsed soon
after starting, and having brought him to with a strong
dose of sal volatile, left him to come on Avitli the others,
while Good, Mitchell, Ayles, and I marched on with
V
M
JUXE
1870
ALDmCIl'S llETURN JOURNEY
41
iej) an
tliaw
'ciider
tlie sle(l<fe, poor Good coin])laiiiin<r bitterly we were
ooiiiLT too i'ast, and Mitchell scaively able to put
one foot before the other. Halted for lunch and
invalids, and under wei<rh at 11.20 again. The
crew showed such evident signs of giving vray to
their ever-increasiuL^ sickness, and that before we could
reach View r.Miit. I took Good on one side, and told
tlieni t!iey nuist a^ try their hand i.t dragging again.
I ex])lained the actual necessity there was for reaching
our next depot, and that, failing to meet anyone there,
I should conmuuiicate with the shij). To further ini-
jH-ess this on tiie men. I loaded the collai)sible boat to
loO lbs., and absented myself with it from the |)arty
for over an hour, leaving them to follo\v. I was a})le
to do tliis witliout L''ettiu<>- far away, as the fog was
very dense.
' Having hit off tlie ravine just north of View Point,
I returned to the sledge, and found them haulin<»' five
or six 3-ards at a time, and then halting a few seconds
to I'ecover Ijreatli. Tlie poor felk)ws were all strug-
gling, and fully alive to the effort they had to make.
Nothing could exceed the ])atieiice and endurance
they showed ; and I fell in with them, and we reached
the boat and camped at 2.30 p.m. — the whole of them,
excej)t Ayles, thoroughly done uj). Under these cir-
cumstances ])itchiiig and cooking comes heavy. We
divided those duties, keeping to the usual turns for
cooking as often as it was possible for the pro[)er man
to take it ; but our cuisine suffered.
' Made good three miles (overland).
' 19^A and 20M. — A great deal clearer than yester-
day, and the wind gone down.
.^Jii
42
VOYAGE TO THE POLAIi SEA.
JirxE
' Travelling most ■ excellent, fortunately, and the
ravine takinu' us down, so as to admit of the sleclo-e
following- ^vith tlie least possible strain on the dra<i:-
belts. As the Sergeant was exceedingly ill, and I did
not like the look of him at all, we ])ut him on the
sledge, and I walked on with the boat well loaded.
Mitchell, Good, Doidge, and Ayles came with the
sledge. On coming to a little bit of level travelling,
which required more strain on the drag-ropes, I got
the Sergeant down, and supported him along while
I dragged the boat at the same time. There was
nothing for it but to go on very slowly, waiting as
they re(]uired, and urging on for the de])6t and ship
news ; but the fact of getting the latter does not raise
their spirits, although the actual fact of getting it has
been more or less talked about all the homeward
journey. At seven came to View Point. Observed a
staff ])laced in the snow by Dr. Moss, which gave us
the intelligence that the Connnander's ])arty had
passed, but no ])articulars, the latter being left farther
on at the dejiot. We were glad to hear of their safe
retin^n, but sorry they were before us, as we had half
hoped to have met with some assistance from them.
As events have become subsequently known, we should
not have benefited one another by meeting.
' Little by httle we crept on, but eveiy moment
made our inal)ility to go on for the ship without assist-
ance the more apparent.
' " There's a silver lining to every cloud," and
never did one appear so welcome as that which came
in the form of a shout from the hill above View Point
and the discharuo of a gun. It turned out to be
June
1870
ALDRICir IklEETS LIEUT. MAY.
43
' and
cfiiue
Point
to be
Malley, and what lie tlioiiglit of my proceeding's I
don't know, for with a yell of " Challenger " I dis-
appeared hack among the hummocks, and returned to
the .sledu'e where it was waitin^i' for me to shackle on
again. My news was received with a shout, and
thinking it might l)e a shooting party, I promised them
hare for suj)per. I then left them to ])itc]i their tent,
and walked in towards the shore. As I neared it,
among the hummocks, I met Lieutenant May and
Malley.
' On learning that they had l)een des])atched to onr
assistance by Captain Nares, on his seeing the condi-
tion of the Noi'thern Party when they returned, the
relief to my mind I cannot describe. All difficulties
seemed to vanish ; and the very sight of the fine
healthy and " clean " ap])earance of om' visitors led me
to look for a much more raj)id and comfortable return
on board than I ha\'e thought about for some weeks.
I accompanied May to his tent at the de})6t, while
Malley Avent out to the men to lend them a hand in
pitching their tent and cooking, &c. As soon as })os-
sible we sent ott Thornback with medical comforts for
their su])])er ; and I cautioned both him and Malley
about saying anything of the deatlis which had oc-
('urred during our absence, fearing the effect it might
have on the men.
' I was truly distressed to hear of the death of
my poor servant, George Porter, and Petersen ; and
I congratulated myself, ar.d felt deeply grateful, that
we had arrived with ;dl hands ali\e, if not well.
' Having arranged with May to send two hands to
helj) us along in the morning, and that the de[)6t should
IliMi I
44
VOYAGE TO THE TOLAK SEA.
Junk
be deinolislied, as a pi-econcerted signal to the Captain,
I returned to my tent, and found the " social baro-
meter " had I'isen several inches ; but I heard after-
wards that Malley was received with tears.
' 21.st. — Under weigh at 9.45.
' The dog-sledge brought on the invalids by relays,
two at a time. This plan we continued until we
reached the ships ; the dogs and their blue-jacket
driver doing their hard work s})]endidly. As I feared
the inaction for the sick, I constantly made them do
some walking. The oidy exception I made to this
rule was in the case of the Sergeant, whom we kept
permanently on the " Challenger." It was now that we
observed with satisfaction the way in which my men
sought to relieve the dogs by walking themselves.
Mitcliell did not get on the sledge at all, but trudged
on with great pluck and perseverance. Camped at 9.30
P.M. Eeaction has set in, and the excitement of yester-
day has given way to greater weakness and lowness of
spirits. Regaled the crew with two pots of oysters,
apple jelly, and eg<^ Hips, much to their satisfaction.
' Made good and travelled eight miles.
' 22nd. — As I did not want my men to hear of
poor Porter's death, and his grave was a short distance
ahead on the floe, I sent Self on with the ostensible
object of carrying the five-man tent and baggage ahead
first, but really to remove the cross which marked the
spot. Tills he did, and returned to go on with the same
w^ork as yesterdaj', advancing the sick two at a time.
Directed Self to replace the cross over the grave, which
was accordingly done.
'Travelling \ery good, except latter part of the
«
Junk
187G
ALDIllCIl'S llETUKN J0U1{N1:Y.
45
Captain,
[il baro-
d after-
y^ relays,
iiitil we
le-jacket
I feared
them do
I to this
Ave kept
V that we
my men
3mselves.
trudged
1 at 9^30
' yester-
wness of
oysters,
3tion.
hear of
distance
stensible
fe ahead
•ked the
he same
a time.
.', which
t of the
day, Avlien the snow became soft and tlie sledufe very
dead in lier movements. It is thawing fast in the sun,
but we did not pass through nuicli shidge.
' Ayles has shown his first sign of weakness of Hml)
to-day ; streuf'th of will remains as before. His
knee is rather swollen and stiff; he says he hit it
against a liunnnock, but it is the increased pace at
which we come. I know it taxes me to the utmost to
haul with the men we now have. Made good nine
miles.
' 23r(/. — Arrived at Cape Eicliardson, and were
welcomed by Lieutenant Parr and Captain Feilden to
their tent ; they cooked for us, and gave us wliat we
had not tasted for many long days — hare and geese.
We all ate heartily of tliis fare, which, with the port
wine, made the invalids different men.
' Tlie travelling has been heavy, " One, two, three
haul ! " pretty (constantly, and snow soft and sludgy,
above the knee in places. Temperature 35°. Made
good seven miles.
' 2-\:t.h. — Lunched off north end of Simmonds' Island
at eight. After lunch marched for the boats, whi(;h
we reached after four hours' very hard travelling,
through sludge and pools in places. The dogs and
Self had a very hard day, and the last of the invalids
(lid not reach the tent till two hours after us. No
fainting to-day, but the Sergeant is very, very weak
indeed, and there is no visible improvement in the
others. Ayles is better, but evidently tou(!licd with
the malady. The travelling is be<fimiin<>- to wt very
had, as we come to many placets Avhere the snow
looks sound (Miougli, but in which we sink down till
46
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
June
;t ^'!l
we eoiiie to water iiuderneatli. Temperature 35°.
Made ^ood six miles.
' Sundfiy, June 2hth. — Lunched iu Eaviiie Bay,
and readied the tents on Mushroom Point about 3 P.M.
As we were uow only six miles from the shi])s, and we
had reason to expect good travelling, we rested for
three hours iu the tents already pitched, and I served
out the remainder of the medicfd comforts, which was
sufficient to give all the sick a very fair meal ; then,
after a short nap, we haided the sledges over the land.
On reaching the next bay we found to oiu' dismay that
the travelling was extremely bad, deep soft snow,
water in places, and sludge, through which we liad
great difficulty with both sledges, the dogs being afraid
of water and useless in the decj) snow. A fair fresh
breeze sprang up, to which we made sail, but it was
becoming apparent we would have to cam]) out another
ni<2;ht, when we sio'hted a sledge in the distance. This
turned out to be a volunteer party of officers and
men, with Ca])tain Nares and Commander Mark-
ham, who soon hurried us on, and we reached the
ship just after midnight, amid the cheers and congratu-
lations of our shipmates. Adam Ayles and David
Mitchell in the drag-ropes, the latter allowed to
totter alongside in his belt, in consideration of his own
request.'
Lieutenant Aldrich having discovered that the con-
tinuous bortler of the heavy Polar ])ack extends for
a distance of two hiuidred miles towards the westward
from Floeberg Beach, and that at the farthest point
reached it was trending towards the south-west, demon-
strates that no land exists for a consideraI)le distance
J
June
re 35°.
le Bny,
t 3 r.M.
and we
"<te(l for
[ served
ich was
i ; then,
he land,
lay that
t snow,
we had
g afraid
lir fresh
t it was
another
This
ers and
Mark-
led tlie
iio-ratu-
David
ivved to
lis own
le eon-
nds for
stward
<t ])oint
denion-
istance
1870
AT.DKICII'S RETURN JOURNEY
47
M
to the nortliward or westward, or witliin tliereacli of a
slediro exjunhtion, however hghtly equi])])ed.
He also dis(;overed that the entrances to all the
bays and harbonrs to the westwai-d of Ca[)e Josej)h
Henry were so barred by the Polar ice-wall that the
ice on the inshore side of it is niiable to esca])e to
seaward during thesnnnner. Consequently, shonld the
])a('k move away from the shore-ice with a southerly
wind, which we must sup})ose to happen occasionally,
and a vessel succeed in p.assing to the westward of the
Cape, the only protection that can be ho])ed for will
be that afl'orded by an accidental ijreak in the con-
tinuity of the ice-wall — she must not expect to find
any harbour open.
Lieutenant Beaumont, Avhose journey along the
North Greeidand shore is described in a succeedin<:r
cha])ter, likewise found that there the heavy barrier of
ice wliicJi leaves the land near Cape Bryant, and trends
in the direction of Ca])e Britannia, [)revents the ice
in the bays and fiords from clearing out ; a shij), there-
fore, cannot ho})e to fnid any protection on either of
these ice-bound shores.
The description of the level plateau of uncertain
formation which borders the northern shore of Grinnell
Land ; whether of ice or soil, l)ut |)rt)bably alternate
layers of the two, formed by the debris brought down by
sunnner torrents being s])read out above the umnelted
ice, bears a remarkable resemblance to that described
by Sir Leopold M'Clintock and Mechiiin in 1853, as
existing on the western shore of Prince Patricl-i
I therefore conclude that both coasts are
ai
id;
equally
exposed to and ailected by the lieavv ice. On the
h:
1'
r-'
,< la
48
VOYAGE TO THE TOLAll SEA.
June
otlier liiiiul, as only light ice was met with on the
northern sliores of the Parry Islands by Sir George
llic'lvards, Slierard Osborn, and Sir Edward Belcher,
I conclude that Griiniell Land does not turn to the
southward at Aldrich's Farthest, but rather extends
more or less contiimously for the whole distance to
Ireland's Eye, protecting the Parry Islands from the
Polar ice ; whether its north-western coast-line bor-
dering the Polar Sea runs nearly direct or not can
only be conjectiu'ed.
Our knowledjje reixardiiii; Jones Soiuid is not jjjreat :
but we know that the flow of warm water from the
southward up Baffin's Bay is to be met with close
outside its entrance, and that the tidal currents inside
are strong. Further, Sir Edward Incfleficld met with
Polar ice when navijrating inside the sound in 1852.
It is therefore probable tliat Jones Soinid affords the
most direct route leading from BafFm's Bay in a north-
westerly direction to the Polar Sea, and that it separates
Aldrich's Farthest from the land which protects the
Parry Islands.
The residts of the two sledge journeys of Markham
and Aldrich, one towards the north over the heavy
pack, and the other following the coast-line towards
the westward, considered with the fact that the birds
do not migrate farther towards the north than the
neighbourhood of Cape Joseph Henry, lead me to con-
clude that no land exists for a distance of at least
two hundred miles to the northward.
T]ie following lines were composed by Mi'. Pullen
after the return of the travellers : —
3
M I
June
on the
George
3elcher,
to the
extends
a nee to
om the
le bor-
lot can
t great ;
'oni the
bh close
ts inside
let witli
II 1852.
)rds the
I north-
?})arates
iots the
arkham
heavy
owards
birds
an the
to con-
t least
e
1870 TIETIIRX OF TTIR SLEDOE JOURXEY!=;.
Wklcosie home to the wi.-^hed-for rest,
Traveller to North, and traveller to West I
\Velcoine back from bristling floe,
PVowning clitT, and quaking snow I
Nobly, bravely, the work was done ;
Inch by inch was the hard fight won :
Now the toilsome march is o'er —
Welcome home to our tranquil shore I
Rough and rude is the feast we bring ;
Rougher and ruder the verse we sing.
Not rough, not rude, are the thoughts that rise
To choke our vcjices and dim our eyes,
As we call to mind that joyous sight
( )n an April morning cold and bright.
When a chosen band stepped boldly forth
To the unknown West and the unknown North ;
And we froni our haven could only pray —
* God send them strength for each weary day I '
He heard our prayer — He made them strong —
He bore their stalwart limbs along ;
Planted their sturdy footsteps sure ;
Gave them courage to endure.
Taught them, too, for His dear sake,
Many a sacrifice to make :
By many a tender woman's deed
To aid a brother in his need.
And safe for ever shall He keep
In His gentle hand the two who sleep.
His love shall quench the tears that flow
For the buried dear ones under the snow\
And we, who live and are strong to do —
His love shall keep us safely, too :
Shall tend our sick, and soothe their pain,
And bring them back to health again.
And the breath of His wind ^;hall set us free,
Through the opening ice to the soft green sea.
VOL. II. IS
49
w
i ' i'
!'!,.
,1 'ii M ■ .
50
yoya(;e to 'nil'] i'olau sea.
Jf-\E
CHAPTER II.
>i I
DECIPE '10 RKTUflN SOUTH— SETT(XG-IX OF TRK THAW — MUSK-OXEN
.SHOT — INCliEASE AND UECKEASE OF POLAR KI.OES — FOKMATIOX
OK PEN-KN'IFE ICE — DISUUTTION OF FLOES — CHAKIt — CiREENLAND
ICE-CAP — nRIFT-\V(WD — ARCTIC FLOWERING PLANTS — ' ALERT '
hiTARTS FOR DISCOVERY HAY.
TiiK return of tlio travellers to tlie 'Alert' so eoiii-
])letely bi'okeii down in health niUurally caused nie
niucli anxiet3\ Out of fifty-three men on board,
twenty-seven were under treatment for decided scurvy,
four others were slightly aU'ected, tnid eiu'lit had only
lately recovered ; live men were in a doubtful state of
liealth from the same or other causes, leavinif only
nine who in addition to the officers could be dej)eiided
on for hard work.
Our great desire was to endeavour to obtain fresh
meat for the invalids, and the officers diligently .scoured
the neiglibourht)od in hopes of procuring game. A
small su])ply of mutton which had remained frozen
in the rigging (hiring the winter had fortunately been
saved ; this, with the birds obtained from time to time,
enabled Dr. Colan to give the scurvy-sti'icken })atients
a fair change of diet, on which their health rapidly
improved.
Although I confidently looked forward to the in-
valids being speedily restored to liealth, yet when I con-
Ju.VE
187(i
RESULTS OF TIIK SLKIKJK JOUKNEYS.
:>!
■il
f sidci'cd the iii:i;j:iiitiitk' of the oiithfcak, I iMl (liat it
? was my lirst duty to LTuai'd a^'aiiist its ivpctition.
I Accoi'dinjily I dclonniii(.'d to ^ivc u|) all I'lirtlu'i' cx-
4 ploratioii, and to proceed to tlic soutliwai'd with both
!:| ships as soon as the ice shouhl break up aud rek-ase us.
H I wascoulii'Mied in this resohitioii when I consick'red
'! the resuhs of tlie spriu;/ ex[)k)rati()n, Owiiij^ to tlie
absence ot'Luid to the iiorthwjird, and the iinpen(>trabki
character of the I'okir ])ack, it was evick'ut that the
shi|) coukl not lie taken any appi'eciable (hstance
farther iu that direction than the latitude whicli we
liad already n'aiiic 1 ; and also that it was (piite iui-
])ossil)le to I'eacii the I\)k! by sledging from any [)ositiou
tlius attainable by the ship.
Tlie sole result that we could |)Os>sil)ly I'xpect to
gain l)y I'emaining on the shores of the I'olar Sea
would be an extension of oui- explorations ji few miles
farther in an east and west direction. But I could not
reasonably hope to advance the travelling pai'ties more
than al)out iifty miles beyond the exti'eme [)oints
% already reached, even should the men be lit for ex-
tended journeys hi the foHowing year. The piimary
object of the Exj)edition — reuching the North Pole —
being thus unattainable, I considered that I was not
I justilied in risking a second winter, which in all human
j)robabiUty woidd entail loss of life.
At this time I had but slight anxiety concernhHif the
health of the men who were ex])loring the northern
coast of Greenland, fully exj)ecting that Lieutenant
f lieaumont woidd be able to obtain enon<di "•ame
:;; to nisure his party from an attack of scurvy. The
■'^; number of musk-oxen procured by the crew of the
B 2
'rl
vovAfii', Id riii'; I'oLAK si;a.
ICNK
I ii)
i
* rohii-is ' ill Iliill liiiiul was .siidicient U) justiry this
ex[K.'('tiitioii.
' 'l{\fli. — A south-westerly ^'iile hiiviui^' raised the
teiiiperature to 40", tlie thaw is iiial\iii<jf rapid proj^ross
on l)otli tlie ice and tiie land, iiiid the icicles, which
only two diiys auo so jjracefidly draped each iloeber^
and hid the oi'i^iiiial ice-block tVoni view, have dis-
a|)|)eared as if by maijic. A tew ducks and <;eese are
ilyin^f about evidently wishing; to settle in the iieij^fh-
boiirhood ; the sijortsinen have decided not to molest
them for a few days, in the hope of their nestinjjjnear us.
'The tidal-crack near Ca])e Uawson has o|)ened
ten feet ; this is the first sign that we have seen of a
movement in the jiack.
'After the lon,ir silence on the lower-deck it is
])leasant to hear Aldi'ich playing the piano again in his
nsnal cheerful maimer.
' 2\)th. — With the exception of a few deep snow-
drifts wlii'li still remain among the liummocks, the
snow has now all melted from above the one season's
ice, and the Avater has run ofl' througli the tidal-cracks.
On shore the brows of the hills have become bare, but
the snow on the high flat lands and that on the au'ed
Polar Hoes remains ai)pareiitly little affected. In the
" Gap of Duiiloe " a stream of water fifty feet across
is running. At high-water it overflows the ice-tloe
in the neighbourhood wliere the stream discharges into
the sea.
'"July \st. — All the ravines are now running freely,
bnt they are still fordable. The pleasing noise of
rniming water, with the occasional call of a bird,
I
I
f
i
i V
if^ro
SUMMKK DWKSS.
" o
i)>\
tl
»e
■I
SIIOW-
cs, the
a
easou's
A
rracks.
•1
re, but
■i
e aged
/
[u tlie
"i
across
_^
ce-doe
f
L3S into
,-■'*
I
whicli lias now taken the |»hice of the winter silence,
is most agreeable, and we linger in tlie neighbourhood
of the ravines puiposely to listen to the welcome
sound. To-dav Parr shot two ducks and a brent-
uoosc — ii vei"V acceptable sujjply, as the last ])iece of the
fresli meat was issued this morning.
' The invalids may be said to live on the upper-
deck ; all those who cannot Wiilk ai'e carried u]) eveiy
morning. They are recovering very ra])idly.
' :;/7/. — 1 walked over the hills towards Black (Tiff
with (}injii(l jmd Conybeare. We l"ullv expected to
see a few seal on the ice in Ivobesoii Channel, but
nothing li\ing was in sight. The temperature ranges
between o')° and 40° in the shade, but we iind it very
wui'm in the sun both day and night.
' Our di'e.ss now (;onsists only of a vest, a flannel shirt
and worsted sleeve waistcoat ; llannel drawers, cricket-
ing trous(;rs and knee-boot.s, with a light flaimel ca]).
When once the shore is reached ankle-boots and
gaiters are ])referable to the knee-boots. 'J'he snow,
although dee)) and .soft enough to reach nearly to the
knees, is not very wet.
^ 4th. — Adam Avles is out of the sick li.st to-day.
Yesterday another of Markham's men returned to duty.
'We notice, like in the autunni, a pulsation in the
tidal-wave as shown in any hole in the ice, the wat(3r
rising and falling continually with irregular hitervals
lasting about two minutes. Dr. Moss has discoycred
a bed of sea-weed which was evidently thrown up on
the shore last .season. Having been frozen eyer since,
it now .appears quite fresh; mixed with it are numerous
Crustacea, chiefly Ardunis and Nymj^hon, with .shells of
1 1
a Mil"
ii
54
VOVAdK TO TIIK rOL.VR SEA.
July
Trochns niid Cylirhna. T)!is .sen,-"\*eo(l lias been torn
from the bottom by the p-oimdiug lloeber<i;s, and
floated on to the shore. If" we had an opjiortunity of
letting down a dredge in a depth of a hundred fathoms,
or where it luis not been disturbed by grounding iee,
doubtle.ss we should find the sea-bottom abounding
with animal and vegetable life, though confined to a
few species.
' oth, — Great rejoicings this morning — Parr having
shot three nnisk .)..'en with two bullets and three wire
cartridges out of a smooth-bore fowling-])iece. Sight-
ing the animals when about two miles distant from the
ship, he sent a man on board with the news. A large
party started off innnediately to surround them; but
before Ave ariived, Parr liad crept close up and killed
one with the fir.st shot; the others standing by their
cc)mrade, as nuisk-oxen idwnys do, were then easily
(les])atched without assistance being recpiired. Within
an hour they were skinned, cleaned, and quartered.
They were small aninnils, a young bull Jind two cows,
^rhe three cnrc^ases weighed o5() lbs. Each had a
white mane of long soft wool, the remain^ of their
winter coat ; it readily came away when })ulled, the
long black hair remaining firm.
' The animals ap])ear to have come from the south-
Avest, and we most earnestly hoj)e that they are the
forerunners of a larger herd.
Mi/A. — This morning a solitary bull musk-ox was
seen near the shi]) and shot by Dr. Moss, giving us
212 lbs. more fresh meat. The flesh a] )]K'ars excellent,
but is very lean and not equal to that of the fat oxen
killed last autunui. This animal came north al(.ii«r the
SEA.
July
1870
WATJ;i[-I'(U)J.S OX TIIK IC'K.
55
(1 has been torn
il llf)el)er*i;s, and
11 o|)])ortnnity of
luuidred fathoms,
)y <jfronn{hng ice,
ottom aboundinu^
<r]i confined to a
n^r — Parr having
t.s and three wire
n<r-])iece. Sijilit-
•; distant from the
e news. A lar^'e
•ound them ; but.
ose up and killed
tandinir by their
were then easily
quired. Within
, find quartered,
ill ill id two cows.
)s. Each had a
remains of their
vlicn pulled, the
3 from the south-
at they are the
ill musk-ox was
Moss, jxiving us
I ])])oar.-« excellent,
of the fat oxen
' north ah.iiix the
4
bn.w of tlie coast-hills, and probably belonu'ed to the
same hei'd as those shot yesterday by Parr.
'Poor Bruin, the doi^^ that has jierformed such good
work ill (liagLnng fresh-water ice to the shi]) from the
quarry, was to day found drowned, having probably
faiieii into the water in a fit.
' The water- pools on the surface of the old Polar
floes are not increasing in size to the same extent as
those on the younger ice. On ice formed from water
newly frozen over during the ])revious season the
surface is so level that when the thaw first commences
the water from the melted snow collects in one vast
sheet many acres in extent, until at last it runs off
through holes f>r cracks in the ice. The snow on the
surface of an old floe, affected only su])erficially by the
heat rays of the sun, and not a])preciably so by the
tem])eratiire of the water below, does not melt nearly
so quickly, and owing to the very uneven surface
the snow-water collec'ts only in the hollows, and
presents a totally different appearance from tliat of the
large seas of water which are met with early in the
season on smooth ice.
' Since the first melting of the snow we observe that
several of the floebergs near the mouths of the laru'c
ravines are c(jvered in parts by ])el)bles and debris
carried down !)y the ra])id streams,
'The fresh-water at a tenq)erature slightly abo\e
32° readily melts all the sea-water ice with which it
comes in contact, and smooths off the ujiper surfaces <if
the floebergs, leaving a level icy floor, above which the
stream spreads itself out andde])osits a thick horizonlal
layer of rounded jicbblcs which it has transported iVoni
56
VOYAGE TO THE IX)LArt SEA.
Jriir
m ■
the lii^"lier Innds. We liad ])revioiisly sii]))X).se(l that
the mounds of pebbles met uith formed jiart of the
actual .shore, l)ut tlie tidal movement has lately tilted
some of tlie ])ie('es of ice and so dis[)layed the lower
stratum below the uravel.
'Lightened as such floeberj^js are by the melii u^
uway of tlie original uj)|)er surface, since tin v wore
forced high up on shore, many of them nnist be floated
off' to sea when the ice bi'eaks uj), carrying with them
their cargo of rounded ])el)bles.
'The marks which were ])laced in the floe to ascer-
tain how nnich the ice would decay durinu' the winter
by su])ei'ticial eva])oration, and which ])i-oved to i)e
nil, indicate to-day that ten inches of the upper
surface has melted or evaporated during the last
fourteen days. Many lost articles which have remained
buried during the winter ai-e therefore now" again ap-
pearing in sight.
' Siniilar marks lixed in a floeberg show that seven
inches of ice has decayed from the u])per surface and
nearly as nuich from its southern face. The rounding
off" of the Avdvp edges is therefore very considerable.
Had we knoivn of this durinuf the autmnn, we could
readily have ascertained which lloebergs had been
recently stranded and which had been subject to u
previous suimrier's thaw.
'Although the decay of the ice near us far exceeds
our ex])ectations, the large ex|)anse of surface in
the Polar pack would not be affected to so great an
extent; nevertheless, the evidence is in favour of the
su])erlicial decay of the North Pola' ice being at least
equal to, if not greatei' than, any poss'ble increase
i
i8:t',
OKOWTII OF rOLAR ICE.
.)<
which may tiike i)]ii( c on its suiface 1)V tlie chiuiiic of
tlio snoAv into ice or oth('iAvi<e.
' It' llie ice increases sii];eriicially it is difiiciilt to
account foi* the absence of annual lines of stratili-
eatioii, or a thick stfatnm of pure i'resh-water ice on
the upper surlace of the Hoes. ]ii no case have we
found the layer of fiesh-water ice to he more than
about two feet in thickness. It is only to ])e found
in the hollows on the surface of ii floe; the ice at
the highest j)arts, above where the water ])ro(luced
by the meltiuL'' of the snow would naturally collect, is
invariably more or less brackish.
' Wherever ;i j)iece of a Hoe has been turned on its
side, and wh*^!! in that ])osition become re-frozen into
the pack, that ])art of it^' former u])])er surface which
was composed of fresh-water ice changes its character
and becomes brackish ice and appears as a vertical
vein running throuirh the newly formed Hoe ; such
veins never ])resent the decided bine tint which is so
frequently to be seen in an iceljerg where a crack in
the jiarent glacier has become filled with frozen water.
'There is, however, evidence that the layer of snow
on the surface of the ice does become changed into ice
under certain circumstances. On one of the large
iloebergs in the pack near the ship a (juan'ny of debris
ice had become ])iled U]) to a height of eighteen feet
above the snow layer of a ])revious season, which was
about tw(» feet in thickness. In March the siioav
immediately under the piled uj) hmnmocks had become
changed into ice while that left uncovered remained
unchanged. Although no mea.surement was ol)tained
the thickness of the layer which had changed its for-
•i"
^L
r
58
VOYAOE TO THE TOLATI SKA.
JfLT
:i 1: i
ination was a])pareiitly tlie same as tliat of the original
snow layer. Unfortunately a sample was not olitained,
and I caimot say whether the ice was brackish or not,
but I think that it was so and tiiat the change liad
taken jjlace by the percolating dowuAvards of the salt
brine from the ice above, as noticed in other floebergs.
' On the whole I conclude that the Polar ice in-
creases in thickness below and not su])erficially, and by
the natural freezing of the water at its lower surface
during the winter. As l)efore mentioned, a Polar
floe only one year old is coin])osed, not of ordinary
ice frozen on the surface of ,'i space of water, but
of a quantity of conglomerate ice pressed together by
the general movement of the pack and then frozen into
a fioe ten or twelve feet and upwards in thickness ; and
to whatever thickness such a formation is continued
the freezing and consolidation of the whole into a
compact mass of ice takes ])lace at all depths, for it is
remarkable that only once have we found a cavity
denoting where a hollow, left when the ])ieces com-
]wsing the floe were first pressed together, has not
become fdled up. In more southern latitudes, where
such cold water is not found at the same depth, similar
cavities remain unchanged.
'In tlie middle of each of the large shore lakes we
find very thick ancMent ice ; whether it is frozen to the
bottom or not we liave no means of ascertaining ; but
it is ap[)areiitly immovable by the wind. Near the
shore the inpour of heated water during the sunnner i,s
sufficient to j)revent its growtli at a less depth than
eight feet. During the winter the ice newly foraied
near the border of the lake by the natural freezing of
JlT.Y
the original
ot o])tained,
\ish or not,
change had
; of the salt
er floebergs.
Pohir ice in-
ally, and by
AVer snrface
ed, a Polar
of ordinary
water, but
together by
n frozen into
ckness ; and
is continued
•hole into a
ths, for it is
nd a cavity
])ieces corn-
ier, has not
tudes, where
e])th, similar
I
ore lakes we
Vozen to the
aining ; ])ut
Near the
le summer is
depth than
ewly foraied
1 freezing of
l»7fi
FROZEN LAKES.
50
the water only attains a thickness of about seven feet.
Last Avinter the mean temjierature of tlie atmosphere
for two nutiitlis was as low as minus P)0°, more than
seventy degrees cokler than the quiescent water left
unfrozen bekiw the ice.
' To what extent tlie seven feet of ice and its cover-
ing, two feet in (k^i)th, of such a sk)W conductor as
snow, prevents the escape of warmth from the water
l)elow, wliich nuist take place before the ice can form,
is an interesting (piestion. During the winter a tlier-
moineter ])uiit'd eighteen inches in the frozen ground
registered a minimum temperature of mimis 12°. For
fiftv-three consecutive days the nunm temi)erature of
the air was minus 44° ; wliich gives the large difference
of l)'!'^ as being due to eighteen inches of frozen soil
and ice.'
Doctor Moss, a very careful observer, after a close
study of tlie Polar floes, difiers from me regarding their
formation. As the subje<'t is highly interesting I
append the following remarks which express his con-
clusions ; —
' The neve-like stratification, the imbedded atmo-
spheric dust, and the chemical characters of our Polar
Hoes indicate, in my opinion, tliat they are the accu-
mulated snow-tall of aijes rendered brackish bv inlil-
tration and efflorescence.
' Until Sir George Nares showed me the part of his
MS. treating of the growth of the Polar floes, I had no
idea that the universality of their stratification woukl
be at all called in question. My notes were, therefore,
not made to \)Yo\e this ])oint, and yet I find amongst
them nine sketches made from nature of floebergs in
■it'
'n
CO
VOYAriE TO Till': POI.An SKA.
.TrLT
tlic m'iiililxJiirhood of 11. INI. v^. " AliTt's"' wiiiter-qujirtcrs,
Jiiul lour sketched on sled^'e joiirm'ys, all shoAvinix
stratiiiciitiou. The lower ])art of tlie floes did not
exhibit stratification, and consequently a few apparent
exce))tions occurred in overturned or much tilted tjoc-
berirs. Some authorities, such as Wrani>ell (" Wranirell,"
edited by Sabine, ap])endix) and Belcher ("Last of the
Arctic Voyanfes," ]>. lOl) liave attributed the thickness
and the stratification of ice seen by them to the slidin<T
up of one doe over anotlier ; but in our ice, tlie extent
and evenness of the stratification, and the invariable
])ro<jressive i-eductioii in the de))tli of the strata from
ab(.)ve downward to their final disappearance l)elow
])recise]y as in glaciei' neve, cannot be thus accounted
for.
'The saltness of the Polar floes, notwithstaiuhng
the (I think) irresistible evidence of their prrowth by
annual snow-fall, is lo be accounted for by infilti'ation
and freezing of sea water as the sj)on_Lry snow-ice sinks
season Iw season, and to a very larufe extent by the
ra])id difTusiou of briny elfloi'escence from frozen sea-
water <TUshed up in cracks. We often had uncomfort-
able evidence of this (lifliision in our sledging tea.
'In April and Mjiy the passage of .snow into ice was
experimentally determined to take ])lace through the
grovvtli of the deejier, and therefore colder, crystals
at the expense of the superficial. Later on an inverse
process hel])s the wind to harden the surface snow into
a, layer which i-emains distinct from succeeding
snowfalls.
' The birthi)lace and nursery of Polar floes is not,
in my opinion, near land, because in our ex})erience
187(»
DIl. MOSS OX POI.AII ICK
01
waste exceeds ^jfrowtli near shores. Tlie u'reat " domed "
iloes tell of jzradual decay, bet^ause Avlieiiever we ;jf(^t
a section of them the horizontal strata were cut by the
outline of the domes, and the ice of the top of the
dome was in\ai'iably salt.
'Occasionally de|)osits of atmos])heric dust were to
be met with throULrliout tlu stratified ice. sometimes
scattered in very minute points which, wlieii examined,
])roved to be air-cells coated with the ini])alpable dust
sometimes occurring in com])aratively consj)icuons
quantities in lines cutting the stratilicalion and nnu'king
what had once been the bottom of a '' sui)ei'irl;icial
hd^e." (Parry, Foui'th Voyage.)
' Similar dust was to be found on the ])resent
surface of the floes occasionallv greatly magnified in
a])j)earance by the pfrowth amongst it of an Alga,
identified by Professor Dickie; as No-stoc aureuiii. The
dust often occurred in little jzramdes, so that in mass it
formed an oolite. Opposite the Humboldt Glacier I
obtained similar oolitic dust, but totally devoid of Alga,
from the melted ice of a lai'ge iceberg stratified with
innnmerable j)erfectly ])arallel strata only four inches
in dejjth. All the sj)ecimens of ice-dust obtained by
me from the lloebergs are undoubtedly the air-carried
di'bris of crystalline rock not traceable to the neigh-
bouring shore.'
During one of Dr. Moss's journeys he met with a
very larjjfe Hoeberg, which had been forced up l)y
pressui'e on a shallow bank close to William's Island ;
he thus describes it : —
' It deserves special mention as a type of its class.
It stood, a huge rectangular mass, forty feet high
-i.;^
G2
VOYAGE TO THE POEAR SEA.
JCLT
r
11 f
el: "
ft
•■I
ubovc the ilof. Its lower iii'lecii iuet were of uii-
stnitilied blue iee, enclo.siiii^ yellow putclies oH HiirtUee
snlt-wfiter (liiitonuicete between .s|)iu'.es of ice with their
lines of air-cells difrereiitly inclined. The reniainin<r
tAventy-five feet was banded Avith ei<jfhteen of the usual
white and blue horizonttd layers — white where the ice
is spon^'y with air-cells, blue in the denser layers above
and below. The height was tt)o great to detect
•' dust-bands." Above all, and covered ordy by the
surface-snow, were sections in olive-tinted ice of what
had once been surface-pools.'
It is a question with me whether this may not
have been a ])iece of ice formed in an enclosed sea like
Clements Markham Inlet, where the floes do probably
increase sn])erficially.
In Cajjtain Markham's journey over the Polar pack
during the spiing, he and Lieutenant Parr were
directed to endeavour to obtain information concern-
in<r the creation and yearly chanire of the a<jed floes,
and to ascei'tain, if possible, wliether the siuface-snow
became transformed into ice or not either by pres-
sure or otherwise. On their return Captain Markham
re})orted as follows : —
' The o})portunities for observations in the trans-
formation of snow into ice on the surface of the Hoes
were I'are, and only occurred when a floe a]i|)eared to
have been recently broken up, and without having had
Immmocks and snow-drifts piled roimd its edges. In
these cases, the section of the snow was as sharp as that
of the ice, and followed all its irregularities.
'Lieutenant Parr was most assiduous in his re-
"•earches into this interesting subject, and I am nuicli
Ml
1870
OTIOWTII OF POLAR ICE.
(18
iiulebted to him lor |)lii('iiiL,^ ul my disposul the inl'or-
matioii lie iicqiiired ou this matter.
'Tliom'iieral doptii of tlie snow was from two aud-
a-half to thi'ee feet, tlie ii|)i)L'r jjortioii, underneath the
surface crust, consistin^j^ of loose <^n'ains of about the size
of rille iine-jjfrain ])owder, and without the least co-
herency ; these grailually increased in size, till about
two-thirds of the wny down they were as lar<;e as rifle
large-grain powder, but still se])arate. Below this,
however, the grains began to unite and to form very
porous ice, till, at the actutd point of junction with the
iloe, it wjis very didicult to draw the line of denuii"-
cation. In all cases the ice on the surface of the Hoes
had evidently been formed in the same manner, for it
Avas full of air holes, though not nearly to so great an
extent as that which was in ])rocess of formation.
' The conversion of snow into ice was not confined
to the surface of the heavy floes, for in making our
roads through the hunnnocks, "sve fre(iuently came
across pieces of snow-ice which had been formed round
some of them, and used it for cooking ])ur])oses.
' Digging down into the snow gave the same results,
for we could always get the porous ice, and found it
very convenient toi cooking. On one o(;casion the
surface of a small floe on which we were encamped
was com])osed of separate pieces of ice, about the size
of a penknife, placed end up, and covered with snow,
but without ap[)arently being joined together in the
slijjhtest degree.
' In one case, also, we found a section of a drift
seven feet thick at the highest point, which was divided
mto three equal parts by two layers of ice half an
i
I
!'i
CA
voYAfii'i TO TFrr: polar sra.
July
inch thick; the lower portion hein^ iieiirly converted
into ice, the middle not to snch \\n extent, while the
n|)|)er had only Just conunenced. On some of the
iloes liir«re isolated pieces of ice would he i)rotrudin<jf,
and in these cases, when tried for cookin^j; ])nr[)oses,
were found ])erfectly fresh ; thou^Ldi they mnst evidently
have oriuinally been salt, and had no ap|)eai'ance of
having liad snow drifted n[) ronnd them, which must
eitlier have been the case, or else the briny matter
mnst have melted ont of them durinjj i)revioussmnmers
and left that which was fresh. How far the thaw
affected the snow on the Hoes we conld not tell, for
thou'di the hummocks had got soft before we were
clear t)f them, the snow seemed to be very httle
alfected.'
' Ith. — As the huid becomes bare of snow, pieces of
drift-wood are exposed to view, and tracks of musk-
oxen ai'e conunon ; but as a. footstep once formed
in the mud Avould take many years before it became
obliterated, they do not lead us to hope that we shall
be visited by much <;ame.
' This afternoon we have experienced our first
shower of rain this season. The carpenters are em-
])loye(l caulking the upper-deck ; the seams above
those parts of the lower-deck which remained dry
during the winter are very open.
' [)th. — The temperature of the sea-surface was
observed to be 32°' 4 ; at a dej^tli of six and nine feet,
31°"8 ; between twelve feet and the bottom in twelve
fathoms it was 29" 0. The very marked change of
nearly two degrees between the water at a depth of
nine and that at twelve feet is evidently due to the
1870
VWK SJIKIJIDAN WATKll-COUlWK.
C5
meotiiiLT <>r the IVcsli-wMtcr niiiniii^' (ifV the iiicltiiiLi- ice
and I ho soa-water.
' Til all the ()j)eii cracks a leathciy I'lllore.sceiico is
observed cliiitrino- to the ice below the sin lace of the
water. As the warm snow-water at a sliijiit depth
becomes cooled thronu'li meeting with the cold sea-
water below it, line ice crystals are formed, which con-
tinnally rise to the snrface in sndicient qnantilies to
form a thin sn})erficial layer of ice, which must be con-
stantly melting and beiiiL' I'eplenished with ice risiiiii;
fiom below.
' l{)t/i. — On this dayDi". Hayes broke out of winter-
quarters at Port Fonlke, the eai'liest day that any ship
has ever cleared the ice.
' The ])ack-ice has now become completely detached
from the j^rounded ice, and only waits for the j^'eneral
break-up. An open or close season depends entiiely
on the sti'en<i;th of the prevailing winds at this ])ei-io(l :
every southerly gale will bring the navigable watei-
nearer to us. In 1853 no water was visible from the
winter-quarters of the " Eesolute " at Melville Island
until the 17th of August ; but this is the latest date
that any vessel has been ice-locked unless the pack
remained fast the whole season.
' llth. — We are watering the shij) by ])um])ing
from a shore stream. A large shooting-])arty left for
the neighbourhood of Dumbell Lakes ; they expe-
rienced great trouble in crossing the Ca])e Sheridan
Ravine, the stream being two feet deep and eighty feet
in breadth, and running with great velocity. At its
moutli the sea-wall is so solid that the water cannot
escajie diiectly to the sea, but is deilected towards the
VOL. 11. F
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IMAGE EVALUATION
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66
V(jYA(iK TO Tin-: Vni.Ml SKA.
JlM,Y
soiitli tor iilxnit a (]ii!irtor of a iiiilo luitoro it can forco
a j)a.s.saL'o ior itscH'. TJio debris hroudit down by the;
toiToiit is Ikmiilt deposited on the hind side of the ice
wall as a raised beach, and it a|)|)arently accnninhites
as readily above ice as al)ove gravel. Wherever it.
does so to more than ai)ont a foot in thickness — the
limited depth of the summer tiiaw — there the ice must
I'emain and become a (!()mj)onent pait of tlie raised
beach.'
Dr. Niiiiis, jit l)is(;overv Bay, on tlie 23rd of June
.suc('eede(l in sinkiiiii a sliaft, live feet deep, at a
])ositi()n tventy feet above the sea-level, and about lifty
y:irds insliore, in order to lay an earth thermometer.
After cuttinir his wny throu,i;h four feet of frairments of
rock and pebbles, he came to a hiyer of solid fresh-
water ice, into wiiicli a hole was picked for a depth of
one 'oot without i'eachin<' the bottom of tlie sli-atum
of ice.
' While the formation of a niised beach inside of
the ice-formed compact sea-wall stretchinuj aloni; the
shore is very evident, it is dillicult to ex])lain why, with
a jxraduid and contimious rise of the land, such ancient
formations are afterwards met with as a series of
stej)s ; but as the height of each step increases, and the
number decrease with the increasin;jf steejHiess of the
shore, probably the beaches nov/ exposed are only
that |)art of the oi-iirinal accumulation not carried
down to a lower level or worn away l)v the weather.
'In a(Ulition to the l)oulders and debris which fall
from the cliffs durin<x the thaw, and those wiished down
bv the summer torrents, whi(^h bv collectinij inside of
tlu! ice-wall form a raised teirace with a stee|) drop to
IHTfi
rilHMATION or A ISAISKI) HKACII.
67
10
IC
y
(I
ill
of
to
si'MWiiiHl, I'lU'h lioavy |)io('o of the passiiiL' iiv |)laiios oil'
i1r' st'ii door ininu'diiilelv outside of tlu' wall, and thus
assists ill tin- lirst formation of tlu' sti'p.
' Tlu' thaw in tiic noijililxmrhood of liio United
States liaiiLfe is considerahlv in i'dvanci' of that in this
iieiLdil)ourhoo(l. Here the purjile sa.\ifrai;e is now in
blossom, and the sloping' ^'rounds are fiiiiiy carjieted
with its l)ri<ilit jiatclies. The Ai-ctic |)lants that have
been sheltered durinir the winter by the snow have
their seed-jiods left on them ; seeds are therefoi'e
readily obtainable. A few jiatches of dwarf sorrel are
connneneinjf to sprout, and jirasses are ajipearin;^' in
very favoured iihiees.
'Mr. White has shot a snowy owl, and brou^dit on
board its six younjjf ones and one I'lii; from the m-st.'
At Discovery Bay seven owlets were obtained on
the 21)th of June. These birds were kept alive and
tiirived well, beinir fed on ])reserved meat and a few
boatswain birds which happened to be obtainable at
the time, until the damj) weather was met with on the
jiassaire home, Avhen they all died,
'■12th. — A crack in the ice half a mile in leiiifth,
e.KtcndinL' to the north-east from Cape liawst)n, was
obser\ed by T)r. Moss.
' Our conii)lexions are now very dillerent from their
blanched a])pearance dui'ini; the winter. Owinnr to the
constant simliLdit and intense Ldare, we are as brown as
if we had beenex|)osed to a ti'o|)ical sun. It is ivmark-
able how considerably the constant sunlijjht liad
bleached the hair on the travellers' faces durinj,' the
recent journeys.
' 1 ')///. — ()wini: to the v'an^ier of being cairied dfl"
08
VOV.VJK TO TIIK rOh.VU SKA.
Jl'LT
<»iir foul by the stroain when jittcMnptin;^' to ford llie
Cape kSlieridiin Kuvine, I have caused a boat to be
moored with lines to either shore for the lielp of any-
one erossinji.
' Mr. E|ierton left with a stronnr j)arty of men to
brin<; ba(;k the two boats advanced last autumn, but
which have not been used. He will make easy
journeys, as several of the men are convalescents and
liave been sent in the hope of tlieir obtaining fiesh
meat.
' To-day there was a very slight motion towards
the east in the outer ])ack.'
On the 8th of July Captain Steijhenson observed
])ools of water in Hall's ]iasin and Lady Franklin
Sound. On the 15th Lieutenant Fulford crossed Hall's
Basin from Polaris to Discovery Bay, and found the i(;e
station.aiy until he arrived within two miles of the
west shore ; there he came to broken-u]) ice in motion,
across which he had a didiculty in reaching the shore
with his sledge crew.
On the 18th St. Patrick's Bay was nearly clear of
ice, and on the 20tli ])ools of water were seen extend-
ing across Kennedy Channel from Joe Island to Cape
Liebei.
' \C)th. — The water whi(^h last week was observed
to have collecte<l in pools on the aged Polar floes has
now drained off. Li the hollows there is left a
columnar structure like the "penknife ice" of Sir
Edward Parry, and that described by Sir John
Richardson as fonned on the surface of fi'esh-water
ice by the summer thaw. The columns are from one
to six inches in height, but as large collections of snow
1870
PKNKMFK ICK.
(iO
are still left imnieltod, and tlu* ice has not rcascd drain-
in^', this nu'asuronuMit will |»r()l)al)ly he iiicreasiMl. Sir
Edward rmry, in 1827, met with some ibiirteeii inches
in len<rth on the 12th of July, and eiirhteeii inches in
len^ith on the Kith of July.
'While the formation of " |)enknife ice" is thus
very apparent, a somewhat similar formation is takiuj^
])la('e as the snow decays by ivJlected heat.
'Early in the sprin<:, wherever the stiatificatiou of
the snow coveiinj; a lloe had become exjjosed at a
newly fonned crack, the lower j)ortion of the snow wa.s
observed to have }iranulated, the <frains collecting
tojrether perj)endicuhirly, the lower ones being the
largest and leaving intermediate air-spaces ; the whole
structure giving ])romise that during tlie sunnner it
Avould assume the cohnnnar a])])earance like the so-
called " })enknife ice," which the surface of many of the
Polar floes showed had been formed during a pi'evious
season.'
While the surface of the floes usually consisted of
slightly brackish <'ompact ice, in many cases we found
it composed of vertical columns of brackish ice half an
inch in diameter and about twelve inches in height,
rising from a foundation of solid ice, and having light
snow hitennixed with them ; these were su])|)orted at
the top by a thin horizontid network of ice, and the
whole covered with the usual layer of snow% varying in
thickness according to the locidity.
' In a few cases we obseiA ed a double set of such
inverted ieiele-like colunms, one tibove the other,
divided by a horizontal layer of clear ice about four
ineftes in thickness, and containing air-drops. In the
iL,
I
It
70
VOYACJK TO TUE VOl.Ml SKA.
Jri.Y
coinpact ice tlio (liist-liiic wjus in all ciises Ik'Iow tlio
lowest line of coliiiiiiis. All the iccol" (his jiiid a similar
iiatuiv ill the iiei<jrlil)oiirlu)o(l of Floel)er<; iii'acli melted
([iiickly immediately the thaw hud removed the upper
stratum of snow. But in the Polar ])a<'k where the
snow does not all melt during the summer, the same
formation, if protected, nuiy outlast the season.
' 11th. — From the summit of Cape Hawson we can
observe three cracks in the ice exteiidini; from the
shore to a distance of about four miles towards the
north-east, where they are lost to sight. This indicates
a decided movement in the ice, and we are wondering
whether the final break-uj) will come from the south-
ward u]) Robeson Channel or from the eastward round
the north of Greenland.
•There is veiy little snow left unmelted on the
hillsides facing Robeson Channel, and the ijivines are
running much slower. Charr have been discovered in
the lake at Cape Sheridan. They are fechng on black
midges which are lying on the surface ot the water in
such laiixe numbei-s that the fish will not rise to any
other bait. Feilden and Parr retui'ued from a shooting
excursion to the north-west. The former has made u
rich collection, but has not succeeded in finding the
wished-for nest of the knot. A considerable quan-
tity of drift-v/ood has been met with on the beaches of
each bay o])en towards the north-west, as we expected
would be the case.
' ISth. — Our invalids are im])roving fast ; there are
now only twenty-two under Dr. Colan's care, eight of
whom are conlined to bed. A large pnrty of con-
valescents hauled the seine in the Cai)e Sheridan Lake,
187(5
lUMlAK IP or Tin: I'ACK.
I
jjikI sjicrccdcd in calcliiiiif forlv-tlircc clinrr, w('i<rliin<r
ill iill nitoiit s<'V<'n pounds — a ncit ^mxxI liaid ; likr
evcrv otiici' dainty tlicv were ifivcn l<> I lie >irk.
• • • '
'111///. — Tlic ])a('k is very sli^dilly in motion; a
(•nick lias rornicd j)arailt'l with tlic sliorc at a distance
of lialf a mile. The ti'nijX'iatnrc of t lie water at the
surface was ;)2°o ; l)etvveen a deptli of nine feet and
tlie bottom in lorty-six fatlioms it was UU°.
'Dr. Moss shot a hare and two ^'eese, u very
welcome addition to the fresh j)rovisions. Din-inir the;
last few days tlie convalescents have been able to
pitlier a small daily ration of dwarf sorrel sufhcient for
their sick connades.
'2()M. — I started for Caj)e Union to look at the
state of the ice in Eobeson Channel ; Parr and Oifliird,
with Frederick and the do^'s, a<'companied me.
'Althou^jfli we travelled when it was low-water in
order to obtain as diy a road as possible inside the ice-
barrier, we had hard work to L'et the very liL'ht sledije
alonjf, liaviu}^ to travel for nearly half the journey over
either wet snow or the <frayel itself.
' As we o])ened Eobeson Chamiel we found that
althonjih the ])ack in the ofIin;jf was stationary, between
it and the land the iee for a breadth of nearly a mile
was broken up and niovin;/ slowly with the tide, nij)j)in^
a^/ainst the shore-hummocks and the outer ])ack. Parr
shot two dovekies in a. ])o()l of water about a mile
south of Cape Pawson. With the exception of a sinj.de
exa^nple seen by Feilden in hit. 82° ^^U' N. tliese are
the only ones we have observed in the '.iei<rhbourh()0(l
of winter-quarters. Seyen jjeese and a hare were shot
.6
]
r
M'
\
Si '
1-:
VOYAGE TO TIIK I'OIAR SKA.
July
near Black Cajx' ; tlireo younjx j/eeso uowly hatched
welt' seen near ihe iiests.
'Af'tiT heiii<i detained by a fo^r for a few hours,
OiHiird and I ascended C'a|)e Union, and from the
Mumniit, 1,()()0 feet above the sea, obtained a ina;,'-
nificent and extended view. The Jitniosphere beinjjf
unusually clear — the [Hvcursor of a coming' storm —
Caj)eCracr<)ft and Cape Bryant, tlie two cliiry ])ortjds of
Keiniedy Channel, si.xty and seventy-five miles distant,
were distinctly visible. The ice in Hall's Basin and
llobeson Channel had evidently only just conunenced
to break uj), for in mid-channel it still renutined
compact ; but on either .side, between the ])ack and
the land, was a border of broken-u[) floes about two
miles in breadth. Water-])ools were to be seen off
Ca])e Brevoort, Caj)e Lupton, and all the jMominent
])oints towards the south, and a stronijf water-sky over
Kennedy Channel.
' There were also a few disconnected water-])ools
near the land in the neighbourhood of Ca])e Stanton
and in the northern })ack ; these would denote that the
disruption in the ice had come both from the north-
ea.st and the southward at about the same time.
' A decided iee-cap was observed above the land
at the bottom of Newman Bay ; also one inshore of
Ca|)e Britannia, far away towards the north-east.
' In the evening the wind freshened from the west-
ward and forced the ice away from the west coast,
leaving a water-channel, about half a mile in breadth,
extending from Cape Eawson southward to an un-
known distance. In the neighbourhood of the ship
1870
MUSK-OXKN SHOT.
7;i
the ic'o outside tlio iKirrier of (loeberg.s moved ofl' tor
about lit'tv vurds.
' As each lloeher^' nuist liiive been cousKh'rably
lijiliteiied by the suuiuier's thaw, they are now liable
to be forced iu nearer towards the laud by the tirst
decided ])re.ssure. I am consequently rather anxious
about the shij) ; however, the ice between her and the
hmd is so much decayed that I doubt its l)em«r able to
danuige her much; but if forced u]> on shore we shall
have heavy work with our few able-bodied men.
' 2Srd. — The invalids are continuing tiieir recover}*,
but slowly: there are yet twenty men under the
doctor's care, ten of whom are more or less confined
to their beds — one wholly so. While returning to the
shi[) yesterday, the rough gravel road over which w(;
were obliged to journey, between the ice-foot and the
cliffs, after first wearing out the steel runners, com-
j)letely destroyed the sledge by the time we had arrived
•within a quarter of a mile of the ship.
' A south-west gale is blowing, and has driven the
pack (^flf sht)re for a distance of about a mile — the
water-ch.annel reaching to Ca])e Sheridan, whence a
crack extends two or three miles in the direction of
Cape Joseph Henry. There the ice is only now
breaking iq), a day or two later than that to the east-
ward.
' Mr. Egerton returned this evening with the two
boats from Cape Belknap. lie brings back 282 pounds
of beef, the remains of two musk-oxen shot by the
officers at Dumbell Lakes, and seventeen geese — a very
acceptable supi)ly, our former stock of fresh meat
liaving been all consumed.
:i
i:
74
VOYACJK T(» tin; VO\.\\l SKA.
Jlf.Y
' Mniiy |ii('(('s ai' (IriCt-wood lisivc lu'cri met witli,
particiiliirly in tlic luiys open t<>Wiir<ls llic iiorfli-wcst ;
l)iit only in mu' sim-Ii I'tivonnMl l(»c!ility, wlicrc tlic
drift would nntniiilly collccl id'tc?" n-cttinu into the cjldy
rurrcMt to the castwnid of Ciiju' .loscpli Ifcnry, was
tluTi' snUicicnt for I'-^fcrtoii to have supplied liis slcd;f(»
with fnt'woo*!.
' It i.s soMU'wliaf remarkable tliat the wood is oidy
found nejir the marj/in of the sea and in the lake-beds:
it would appear that if left exposed it rots away, but
when Innied below the frozen muddy soil it renmins
iinderayed for ajres.
' Naturally where the wood has eolleeted in the
lar«.'est (juantities ice-borne roeky boulders are idso
found on the shore.
' Tn llil^'ard 15ay, oj)eii to the north-west, Mr.
Kjjferton i'ej)orts : —
' " On \ho eastern shore of the inner |)art of this bay
there were peat quantities of di ift-wood, ])ieees of all
sizes, varying' from fifteen feet in lenph to a foot, but
apparently all of the same description. Most of the
])ieces were lyiii<r on the surface, but some were
sli«j[htly covered with soil. I found pieces forty feet
above the level of the water. One tree, lyin^' close
above the water's edjjre, was about fifteen feet lon<;
and twelve inches in diameter at its thickest part.
The shore was <renerally covered with shells to a
lieiLdit of twenty feet above the level of the water, but
in places considerably hi^dier. All the shells were of
one or two kinds. On the north-east ])oint of the bay,
I cauie u])on a pile of rocks which looked like an old
ruin about forty feet above the level of the sea. Upon
1H7<.
DKIIT-WdOI).
I •)
•t.
a
lilt
lof
Id
nil
t'Xiimiii.'ition r loiiiid tlics- rocks full of fosMils, spc*'!-
iiu'iis of wliidi T hroii^'lil on hoai'd. 'I'licsc rocks imist
IiiiV(»lH'('M (iiiiisporlrd llici'c hv ic(',iis tlu'V.'irt' ofii totiillv
dillcrciit nature IVoiii that of the siirroiiiidiiiir strata."
* III coiisidciiiiL' loriiicr rc|>orts lA' tlic I'mdin^j: of
tiossil wood, iiiid trees snid to he in sitit, it is noticeable
that the positions where such petrifactions and stiiinps
of trees have been found, not excepting' the Ciise re-
jjorted l)y Sir iMlwjird Ik'lcher (' Last Arctic Voysi^'e,'
vol. i. J). >)cS()), are all in the neiir iiei<.'hl)ourliood of
where the water-currents are now collectinj.' drift-
timber, iind ^\ hither we would exj)e('t them to have
borne it when the land was at a lower level than it is
at |)resent, which all the data in our ])ossessioii j)r()ves
to h
Tlu
lave been the <'jise in very recent jjfeolojjfical times.
With calm weather the i)ack ha.s closed in a«jain.
ere is a very slow movement in it towards the east-
ward (lurin<,' the fk)od-tide — none towiirds the west
with the ebb; but althou^fh it is quiet here, with a
.sluixmsh current, the ice to the southward of the
narrow fimnel-shai)ed Kobeson Channel must be drift-
uv^ (\UU
klv t(
Avart
Is K
ane's Sea
Parr has commenced to clear away
pa
ssa<re
throujih our floeberjz harrier. I am afniid to open the
channel completely, lest heavier ice should drift into the
vaeancy left.
The
i irrave
1 and
d
cinders snrea(
pr(
d out
over
the
ice
h.ive now eaten their way throu<rh: this is a week later
ill the season than when the same thing occurred at
Melville Island in 185;^.
' 2G/A. — Yesterday, in cons
movement in
th
e ice.
the si
HI)
equence
cfime
of
U])r
ii;
ht
^ViLdit
once
r)i
76
V(>YA(!K TO TIIK roi.Al: SKA.
Jll,Y
I
m
more; ])ii1 she is still hoiMc up ahoiit two feet above
lior onliiijirv (IriiiiL'liI ^A' water.
'The last of the stoics have luu'ii embarked from
tlie shore, and we are now ready to start south at a
few hours' notice. Mr. Wootton is naturally auxi«ais
to try the eiiLnnes after their haviu'' been disn nntled
duriu}.' the winter; but owin^j to our reduced stock
of coal 1 cannot spare him any for the ))ur|)ose, and
trust that everythiii<' will be correct when the order
is j/iven to start.
' Great trouble has been experienced in fixing' tlie
screw ; like in the autuuni, when lowered to its rijjlit
])osition, the shaft could not be entered to within three
inclies of the end: we have now discovered tliis to be
caused by an accunndation of ice in tlie boss of the
screw. The nearly fresh-water at the sesi surface at a
tenij)eratui'e slijfhtly above 32°, carried down inside
the screw-hole to the colder and Salter stratum below
at a tem])eniture of 29°, became quickly froxen and
plu«jrj;ed the screw before the shaft could be entered.
]iy removin«; the plate at the after end, and lowerin*^
the screw down slowly, after it had been thoroujj^hly
wanned in the air at a temperature of 40°, and thus
j)ennittintx the salt-water to take the j)lace of the fresh
more readily, the dillieulty wa.s overcome.
' A notice })aj)er has been placed inside the cairn
on the summit of the look-out hill. It contains full
infonuation of our doings, with the names of all the
officers and ships' com})anys of the two vessels. The
notice is written in Indian ink and j)laced inside a glass
tube closed at each end over a spirit lamp — it ^liould
last for ages.
1M7({
IMKUUM) DKI'OSITKM.
77
' 27//«. — To-diiy PiUT ('X|)l()(l('(l ii t'orty-lhrci' |)()ii,i(l
jar of |)()\vili'r iiikUt a lii'iivy piiM-c of ice ('l(»iii!.' «mr
door of I'xit throiii^'li fhe hiinicr. The i'lK-cl was wry
^rout, jiiul proves thut wc ciiii iiiiiki' our i'S(';i|h' at
plriisiiro wluMi tliL' outer ice cases olf; always provided
that uo new lloeher^'s hectuue stiau(K'(l,'
As i^'unpowder only explodes upwards, j^Mui-cottou
is a far more ellective auxiliary in ice uavi^Mtion. It
is now stated that there is no daiijjrer in cui ry in </ it to
cold climates or in permittin;^' it to hecome fiozen.
The j^'enerality of the crew are far Miore kuowin;^
concerning the removal of ice than the> were hist year,
and v'Ikm cleariu},' away a ([uautity of rul)l)]i' do not
expend their stien^'th by pushin;^' at the crown of an
iirch, as they used to do ; hut many of tliem still
imajiine that force alone is re(piiied.
'Throu;jfh careless work in di^'<_nn;.' it out, the earth
thermometer wis broken. The earth was fn^zen at a
(lei)th of one foot: the tem|)ei'ature reLMsterin^' o()°
])revious to the accident. The depth of one foot may
therefore be accepted sis the j^reatest thickness of the
unfrozen soil dui"in_Lj the summer.
' 2\)th. — A beiuitifully calm day without a cloud
iu the liiiiht blue sky.
' From the sunnnit of Cape Rawson I observed
that the lar«i^e " crossing' floe " which was abreast of
Bla(;k Cape during' the winter has drifted three or
four miles towards the north, {)roving that tlie ])re-
vailin<j( westerly winds are sufficiently j)owerful to act
in a contrary direction to the southerly ruimiiiLr current,
and so ])revent the heavy ice from driftiuLf thi"ou<di
Kobeson Channel as readily as it otherwise would do.
^'s I
I,
m
III
m
78
VOYAGE TO TIIK POI.AK SKA.
Jri.Y
111 IvLMHiody Channel so lar^e und li'^avy a floe as
the one the " Polaris " peoi)le fortunately liaj)])ened to
lijjjht upon is rare.
*The tenij)eraturc of the air in the shade remains
at about 40". Althoujj^h theie is only three or four
de^'rees differeiu^e between the teni))erature at noon
and midnight, it is yet sensibly hotter in the middle
of the day, and the run of water in the ravines is
considerably increased. They are now I'eadily foixl-
able, and it evidently freezes ni«jfhtly in the hi_Ldier
lands. In a fortiii;,dit's time the warm season will Ije
over and everything on shore will be ])ermanently
frozen again.
' Tiie ])urj)le carj)et of saxifrage ])rofusely spread
over the ground early in the week, in consequence of
exj)Osure to constant sunlight day and night, has lasted
only for about ten days ; it has now given j)lace to the
bri<rht yellow ranunculus and draba, with a rich sprink-
ling of the more delicate tinted pop])y and mountain
avens, and a small yellow saxifi-age. In the richest
clumj)s of vegetation tlie most homely Howei' of all,
the pretty white Cera.stiuni a//^m?/j/<, is ])leasantly inter-
spersed amongst the grass and mosses.
' Since the removal of the snow we have found a
considerable quantity of dwarf willow sjireading out its
brnnclies along the ground in the water-ways. It
would ap|)ear that it requires greater ])rotection fi'oni
the cold than the hardier saxifi'age, which can exist
without a snow coveriiii;.
' There is much vegetation still covered by snow.
I camioi think it dend, as even at this late season
as soon as a i)atch is bared by the thaw it gives
1870
AllCTIC VKCJI'TATION.
79
fsij^Mis of life. Sucli beini; the caso, I Jiin iiidiiKMl to
.susj)0(;t that ))liint.s in tliese Arctic, clinics do not always
l)C(X)n»c developed on the recniTen(;c of each warm
season ; bnt that wlien s(n"eened from the life-irivinir
ravs of the .snn they can remain dormant for a time,
and that those that bnrst into life too late to become
fnlly develo;)ed before the frost sets in a_L*'ain, bein«^
covered and |)rotected by the snow, have their growth
arrested thronirhont the winter and remain i-eady to
reawaken, as it were, to a further term of develo])ment
the next favoui-able season.
' On the sloi)es (^f the coast hills, jH'otected fi'om
the prevailing winter winds, where the di'ifted snow
collects in the jxi'eatest abundance, a considei'able
])ortion will certainly remain unmelted at the end of
the season. A quantity will also be left on the level
uplands. Decayin;^ as the snow does underneath, near
the earth, by reflected heat, as well as by direct heat
at the to}), the formation of the snow layer must be
constantly chan;^nn<^. The oldest snow of a ])revious
season at the bottom of the layei", after <rianulating
hito ice, melts or evaponttes in the air-space, one
or two inches in thickness, between the snow and the
land, and gives place to a more recent deposit above
it, which in its turn settles down nearer the earth.
' When walking above an extensive surface of
snow it readily gives way, and sinks beneath us with
a muffled noise, not only immediately under our feet,
but a large area of it acting in combination — how
large we cannot say, as no era 'i is visible in the
neighbourhood.
'It is only at the foot of the snow slopes that we
i^
'4
:!
ill
:)
m.i
4 '<'i
if 'i
'■ i
k
kt.
80
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
July
find any changed into actual ice. There, in digging
down through a drift, we first meet with wet snow,
and then ic^e of a gradually increasing solidity until
near the earth it is quite solid.
' When the thaw first couunenced, the water was
observed to run down each snow-filled ravine through
an ice conduit which it had fonned for itself near the
surface of the snow. As the thaw advanced, the floor
of the channel became naturally lowered, leaving ice
cliffs on either side ; but these were only two or three
feet in breadth, and the ])art most distant from the
channel was the least comj)act ; the rest of the snow
on each side filling up the ravine had been little
affected by the water. How thick the lower part of
the ice-i)ipe was when first fonned is micertain, but
I doubt if it extended down to the ground below it.
' Our gateway through the floeberg barrier has
been enlarged to the widest dimension advisable, and
several large charges of powder are ready for a final
discharge as soon as the pack gives us an opportunity
to start.
' It is quite certain that we can only escape when a
strong south-west wind blows the ice away from the
shore. As that will be a foul wind^ for us in Eobeson
Channel, the ship has been made snug aloft, ready for
steaming head to wind. No sailing ship could ever
get to the southward from this position.
' 30^/i. — To-day three young knots were caught on
the border of the lake near the ship. It is very strange
that we have been unable to find the nests, which
could not have been very far away, as tlie yoiuig birds
are unable to fly. The old birds are very wild : they
lS7(i
YOUN(i KNOTS.
81
collect ill flocks from twelve to twenty in number.
The barometer is down to 29-4 inches, with an over-
cast sky <rraclually lowerinjjf and heavy cumulus clouds
o\er Eobeson Channel, denoting a south-west wind
before lon<jf.
' There are now only eijihteen scurvy patients left
under the doctor's care, and ot these six are nearly con-
valescent,
' 3Ls;.— Snow was fallinpr all hist ni^rht with calm
misty weather. At 4 a.m. wind set in suddenly from
the south-we.st. Expecting it to contimie, steam was
got up, and after five hours of hard work with the ice
the shi]) was pushed through a narrow opening, and
was again under steam after an eleven months' rest.'
fft
m I
VOL. II.
et
82
VOYAGE TO THE TOLAK SEA.
July
CILVrTER III.
GUEEN'LAND PARTY ATTACKED WITH SCUIiVV — HEATHS OK TWO MEN —
CAl'TAIN STEl'nENSON PROCEEDS TO POLAUIS liAY — liEAUMONT RE-
TURN'S TO DISCOVERY BAY — ACCOUNT' OF UlS PROCEEDINGS.
ALTilouciii the proceecliiiLTs of the Greonland tra-
vellers Avere luiknowii to us on hoard the 'Alert' until
the Gth of August, by which time we had succeeded
in advancing to within twenty miles of Discovery
Harbour, it will be more convenient if I relate them
])reviously to describing our return voyage through
Kobeson Channel.
On the loth of July, Lieutenant Fulford, with two
men and a dog-sledge, arrived at Discovery Bay from
Hall's Rest. He informed Captain Stei)hens()n thiit,
after a most arduous journey. Lieutenant Beaumont
had arrived at Polaris Bay on the 1st with the whole
of his crew attacked by scurvy. Two deaths had
occurred — that of James Hand on the 3rd of June and
of Charles Paul on the 29th, both of whom, carried en
sledges, had lingered just long enough once more to
sight their Arctic home before their spirits were called
away. Seven out of the eleven men cor\posing the
l)arty were still ailing ; but through the assiduous
and skilful treatment of Dr. Coi)i)inger, and the in-
valuable exertions of Hans Ilenih'ich in obtainiim fresh
187(5
noxDiTiox OF (;i:r:EXi,Axi> paimy
s;i
"•1
It
seal moat, the sick men were reL^aiiiiiijjf streiiLrth and
liealtli ill a most siir|)risii|(jr maimer. AlliioiiL'h still
\veak and i)()wei'less tlu're was every reason to ho|)e
that all would be sulliciently recovered to cross the
strait by the be^nmiinjjf of Aunrust.
JJiit for the valuable (lejjot <^)f provisions which had
been established at Hall's Eest by the Polaris expedition,
Beaumont would have found the greatest dilliculty in
obtaining su|)plies.
Ca|)tain !Ste])henson innnediately decided to start
with a slcdpfe party for Polaris Jiay, conveying medical
comforts, etc.
As tlie i(;e was then breaking uj) in IlalTs liasin,
a. snudl boat was taken ; but even with its assistance
the crossing occujjied them three days, Hall's liest
being reached on the 19th.
After a stay of ten days, during which time the
invalids rapidly im])rove(l, Cai)tain IStephenson escorted
half the men across the chamiel to Discovery liny,
leaving Beaumont and I)r. Coi)i)inger to foHow with
the renuiinder after another week's rest, l^o broken-
u]) was the ice in Hall's Basin that the ship was not
reached until the sixth day, after a very wet journey.
A severe gale detained Beaumont at Polaris Bay
until the 8th of August, when a start was made foi-
Discovery Bay. To cross a bi'oad channel at this
season of the year was a most hazai'dous enterprise,
the floes being broken up and drifting rapidly to the
southward. On the third journey, to save themselves
from being driven into Kennedy Channel, a forced
march had to be made ; and after thirty-live hours of
incessant labour they succeeded in I'eaching the shore
i
84
VOYAGE TO THE POEAH SllA.
Ai'Kir,
of Daly reninsiila. On tlie next inarcli, wlicn frossinir
Lady Franklin Sound, after Avorkinii contimiously for
twenty-two hours they were forced throujudi exhaustion
to encani]) on the ice about two luiles from IVllot
Island. Fortunately it remained stationary; and the
party reached Discovery Bay on the followinir day, the
15th of August, where the ' Alert ' had arrived a few
days y)reviously.
The following is an account of Lieutenant Beau-
mont's sledge journey, with extracts from his olFiciid
I'eports.
Accom])anied by Dr. Coppinger and sixteen men,
draiiuing two sledixes, he started from the 'Discc 'ei'v'
on the Gtli of A])ril for Floeberg Beacli, intenduig to
make the ' Alert ' his base for the cx])loration of tlie
North Gi'eenland coast. Lieutenant Ik^uunont re-
lates : —
'Although this journey does not form part of our
exploring campaign, it requires some brief notice in
consequence of its being our lirst ex])erieiice in
sledging.
' The party set out in good health and in excellent
spirits ; but tlie extreme cold — minus 40° to minus 30°
Fahr. — making it dilhcult to sleep at night, together
with the unaccustomed food and hard work, soon told
u]ion some of the les-s trained men, and for the two
following days our progress was slow, considering the
nature of the roads. George Leggatt, ship's cook, was
the worst, and for half-a-day had to walk by the side
of the sledge ; but as there was notliing more serious
than over-exertion they soon began to recover their
sti'ength. Leggatt's indisposition was chiefly due to
1H7<')
(llU'KNLANn SLEDCiE .TOUIINEY.
85
I!)
liis dislike of jKMmnicjm, and \\(\ Wkv iiiaiiy otlicrs,
would not eat it until InniL'i'r coniju'llcd him lo do so.
'The road, with a tew exceptions, was a very
routdi one, as tliere seemed to be no choice but to
follow the line of the liiLdi and very steep clifls alouLr
the iee. Onee we tried the land-foot, but after passinjj
some inclines so stee[) that we had to cut a Lrroove for
the hill-side ruimer, we were forced to lower both
sledt'os and crews down an ice- wall twenty-five feet
luLdi, which caused such a delay that for the future we
])referred workinir throuLdi the hunnnocks. Floes were
I'are, and of no LH'eat size, consecpiently our ])ro_ifresfl
was only moderate. We ])assed Lincoln IJay on the
llth, and arrived at Black Cape on tlu; I4th, wliere
we were detained one day by a L'ale of wind, reaehinu
II.M.S. "Alert" on Sunday, the Kith of April.
' This trial trij) was of irreat use to us, for the
sled<jes not beinir heavy enal)led the men to u"et into
the Avork without undue effort, and ^'ave them time to
«jfet accustomed to the food and novelty of the life, so
that we reached the " Alert " in excellent condition,
and ready to beinn work in ejirnest.'
On the 20th of A|)ril, Lieutenant Beaumont, ac-
com])anied by Lieutenant Eawson, Dr. Coppinirer, and
twenty-one men, draL^Lfinir four sledu"es weiuhted to
218 lbs. ])er man, started for Greenland, the oflicei's
themselves, as usual, alwjiys drajj^iuL? whenever not
employed in selecting a road throULrh tlie rou<xh ice.
With the exception of Eawst)n and two of the
men, v/ho had only rested for two days, the whole of the
Greeiiland i)arty under Beaumont enjoyed the jireat
advantage of a thoroULdi rest of four days, after a
80
V(>VA(iK TO TIIK I'OLAlf SKA.
A I'll 1 1.
&.
proliiniiiiiry ten diiys' Journey, and started in ai)parently
most excellent health.
H*d the Committee a])])ointed to enquire into the
outbreak of scurvy considered this fact, they woidd
doubtless not have introduc-ed the followinii parairraph
in tlu'ir rei)ort.
'How far, with due re,irard to the leuL'th of the
travellinjjf setison, tliese evils could have been mitiirated
by a recourse to short journeys, utilized for layinix out
depots of jH'ovisions, and other jn'eiKtratory ])uri)oses,
])rior to those of a more extended character undertaken
to efl'ect the main objects of the Expedition, we are
not ])repared to say, but it is obvious that theado])tion
of such a system would have afforded an amount and
descri|)tion of that ]n'evious traininuj so essential to the
success of sledufinus far uiore eflicacious than the exercise
obtained durhiix the winter, but limited by its severity.'
The followinjjf are cxtra(,'ts from my orders to
Lieutenant JSeaumont : —
' Equii)])ed and ])rovisioncd for an absence of fifty-
six days, yon '\vill cross llobeson Chaimel and exjilore
the coast of Greenland towards the north and castw^ard.
' Your party, althouirh not as strong (niunerous) as I
would wIhi, admits of two sledufes bein<>; advanced for
the time mentioned, under the command of your.self and
Lieutenant Wvatt Eawson, nn otTK.'er in whom I have
the fullest trust, and of the two others placing a depot
of provisions for your use when returning.
'Dr. Co])])inger, in addition to his medical duties,
will take executive comuiand of the two sledges thus em-
])loyed ; George W. Emmerson, chief boatswain's nmte,
takino- chari»e of the sledi>e "Alert" under his tu'ders.
187(J
(lUKENLANl) SLKDCJE JOUIJNEY.
87
' During your advance you are to endeavour to keep
one of your .sledges on tlie northern shores. Your
best guide for doing so will he to follow the line of
lieavy stranded iIoel)ergs which border the coast, in
whatever direction they nniy lead you.
' Should youex])erience smoother or lighter ice than
that in our neighbourhood, you may reasonably con-
clude that some protecting land exists to the north-
ward. In such a case you should divide your j)arly —
one sledge endeavouring to reach the northern land,
and the other continuing the ex])lorati(»n of the Green-
land coast. But as you are not provided with a boat,
anyone detached should return to the mainland befoiv
the 1st of June.
' Should you discover any dee]) iidet, which in your
o])inion might ])rove to be a channel aflbrding an
easier joiuiiey to the eastward than the coast-line of
the Polar Sea, it is desirable that it should be ex})lored
this year.
' Your party on returning to the " Discovery " nuist
necessarily cross Robeson Channel after the ice has
broken up. This part of the work before you will
require more than usual skill and judgment ; but I
know of no officer in whose hands I would moie
willingly leave its accomplishment, having the utmost
confidence that, with your great ability and forethought,
your interesting journey will be successfully accom-
])lislied.'
Lieutenant Beaumont's report continues as follows :
' Having completed the two advance sledges " Sir
Edward Parry" and "Discovery" to fifty-six days'
])rovisioiis, and the two sup])orting sledges " Stephen-
H
n
i
88
VOVAdK TO TIIK rol.AII SKA.
\^
'1'
Al'UM,
son" und "Ali-rt" in projKjrtioii, from llie C!i|)u
Itawson ])t'|)ot, we started early on the morning of the
22nd of Aj)ril for l{e[)ulse Harbour, on the GreenUmd
coast.
'Thanks to the road made by Caj)tain Nares'
dii'ection, the ])assa;^e of the triii<2;e of shore liummocks
at Bhick Caj)e was made in safety by the lieavy sled.L'es ;
one live-man sledixe, however, broke down, and had to
be sent back to the " Alert " and exchanired.
' The line between Black Ca])e and Ivepulse Harbour
leil us in a south-easterly direction, and was crossed
by many bands of lieavy Imnnnocks, necessitating a
i;ood deal of road-makinj^ for the heavy sledtjfes, and
j^M'eat cjirc in the management of die five-man sledges,
which are hardly calculated to stand such rough work.
'As we JH)|)ro(U'lied the Greenland coast we passed
se\eral Hoes of last year's ice ; they were not large,
but were remarkable because they showed no sign of
])ressure round the edges ; it seemed to indicate that
from the commencement of their formation, the large
and lieavy old Hoes which surrounded them had been
motitmless. The old Hoes were high, and covered
with dee]) soft snow, while the y<Hmg floes lay low,
and had much less snow on them ; in fact, not only
from my observations on that occasion, but later on
when returning, I remarked large extents of level and
unbi'oken ice, from which I infer that there is less
current or tide-action on this coast than on the other.
The entrance to llenulse Harbour is, however, V(
rery
ditlerent, being a mass of hummock ridges with small
Hoes between them, to within 2(M) yards of the shore,
when you come to a .'•olid barrier of immense iloebei'gs
if^rtj
(ii!i:i:M,.\NM sLKixii: .ioikmoy
80
over which we lia<l to liiid ii way. This took hah' a
(lay of I'oad-ciittiii;/ and hridjie-inakiii;,', for Mich larp-
mjissi's have wide pips between tliem ; our only con-
sohition for the delay was the thoULdit that it would he
a lastiiiLT work, and niijiht pro^e useful to others. The
men bv this time were becomi:i/ skilful road-nuikers,
and the oflicers practised en«fi(Hvrs.
'The tents bein;^' ])itched, the provisions were re-
distributed anu)n<fst the three renminin«; sled<res, a
cairn built, and u site selected for the dejjot to be left
for our return journey. Having written a letter to
Captain Nares of our ])roceediii<fs uj) to that date, I
despatched Geor^ie W. Ennnerson on his way back to
the "Alert."
' On the 27th Ajnil we started northward, having'
secured in the de|)6t a few thiiiL^s of which we were
not in want, to lijihten as nuich as possible the now
very heavy slednes.
'Our way led us round the harbour, which is about
two and-a-half miles broad, and at |)resent only half
a mile deep ; but if this is the Ee])ulse Harbour of the
Americans, it is no wonder that from a distance it
apj)eared to them a desirable place of refujjfe ; the
background of hills gives it the ai)pearance of ti large
bay, uearl}' three miles deej), Avith two ishuids in it,
the reuiainder of the huid between the hills and the sea
being so flat and low as scarcely to be distinguished
from the floe. No doubt it is an old harbour, and
even now, for some considerable distance in, the land
is covered with ice. A wide and deep valley on the same
level runs from the north-east corner of tliis dry bay.
'On the "iSth we passed the farthest pouit reached
i< I
^
90
V()YA(}K TO TIIK I'OI.AU SKA.
Antii.
by LicutciiMiit Riiwsoii in his flylnL' visit a i'cw diiys
belnrc. lit' ciTtaiiily was justifu'd, so far as lie saw,
ill iiiakiiiLr a iavourablc ivjuu't (»t' tlie t ravel Hiils l)iil
aiiotluT six iiiik's would have told a dilleieiit tale, lor
it wa.s not until the second day that our dillicullies
eoninieneed. Karly in the journey we eanu' to a \k)'u\\
covered so dee|tly with diift snow that it almost rose
to the level of the hu;Lre huinmock mass forced on the
end of the point. This drift, like all accumulations
of snow which the wind makes on meetiiiij^ with an
obstacle, left a deep and pivci|)itous jjfa|) between it
and the hummock, and our t)nly way |)ast was to climb
the snow-hill. It was so stee|> and slippeiy that the
eiLdit-man sledLre had to be partly unloaded, and then
each sled^ixe hauled over sei)arately by all hands. This
l)oiiit we named ])rift Toint.
' The coast beyond this trended to the north-east-
ward, and was one continuous, steep, slippery, snow-
slo])e. Sometimes, where the shore hummocks were
hi<;h, tliere was a ledge at the bottom covered with
deep soft snow, but more generally the slope ended in
a straight di'op of from live to fifteen feet on to the ice.
' The next point was very much the same as Drift
Point, and the slo])es continued for some distance
beyond. We had to double-nuin the sledges to get on
at all, and even then our ])rogress was very slow. To
pi'event losing gi'ound, and to clear what we took to
calling the " drift-pits," which existed in a greater or
less degree round every hummock, we had to keej)
dragging u]i-hill as well as forward, and thus, making
a great deal of lee-way, the sledges were hauled along
by degrees.
1M7(J
(;i!i:i:nlam> slkikjk .ioiknky
l»l
' rTcxt jounu'y we sljirli'd cm :i iii<>i\' li'vi-l rond,
niid liopc'il to make a hctlcr iiiiircli, hut we soon caiiii' !(•
niiotlier point worse than eitlier of the other two. 'I'lie
.sh)pe, which contiiiiied lor over two miles, was so
Ntee|) that it was impossible to stand on it, whili' towai'ds
the end it became almost perjjendicnlar. At tin- loot
ol" this slo|)e was a toftuous and intricate passaire alonir
and inside the lumnnocks, lull of det'p holes and
covered with thick soft snow, 'i'lie work of ucttiiiL'-
throULdi I'lis promised to he endless, and it was im-
))ossil)le to -ay what was hi'vond, so I sent Lieutenant
liawson, accompanied hy Dr. Co|)pinL'er, to re|M)rt on
the I'oad ; in the meantime we commenced to cut
throuijfli all obstacles. They ri'turued in about two
liours to say that, al'tei" two uiiles of a road that jjot
worse and worse, they cauie to a chll' tliat went sheer
down into tlie tidal-crack and which it would be
imj)ossible to ])ass without iroiniLr out on to the ice.
' I liave <xone into these particulars to show how
important I considered it to kee]) to the land on the
outward journey, thou^rh at the same time I felt it was
^H'eatly retardinix our advance. It ha<l been im])ressed
upon me that the object of kee])intf to the laud on the
outward journey was to prevent leaviiiLT an imi)assal)Ie
barrier in the rear, which, supposinuf the ice to break
II]) hefore our return, wt)uld eflectually cut oil' tlie
retreat of the ])arty. But here was a case in which it
was nec^e.ssary to dei)art from the rule. The din's
extended, as far as could be jud_u:ed, for about foui-
miles, and must be ])assed hy the ice or not at all. It
was too late to depend on boats beinjjf sent to meet us,
so we trusted that the ice would remain and befriend us.
i
02
VnYA(JE TO THE TOLAl! RKA.
May
' As we had to take to the ice we took advanta^'c
of tlie LTOod floes that lay in our direction, and struck
tile land a^rain some distance beyond the clid's, which
in consequence of a remarkable black rock like a horn
projecting from one part, we called the Black Horn
Clifls
' The next three journeys were spent ui crawling
along the sides of the never-ending snow-sloj)es, some-
times halting for hours, while as many as coidd be
em])loyed were cutthig a road in the hard, slip])ery
sninv, wide enough for the whole breadth of the sledije.
The angle of these slopes — carefully taken with a
clinometer by Dr. Coppinger — showed that they varied
iVom 20° to 24°. If the snow w.'is hard it wjis im-
possible to stand on this latter incline, and here broad
roads had to be cut. So direc^t and heavy was the
})ressure from outside on some ])arts of tliese slopes,
that the iloebergs were forced right up on to them,
and left us notliing but tlie steep talus of the cliff by
which to pass.
' On the 4th of May Ave arrived at a place which
seemed so suitable for a depot that we determined on
U'avinii our three water-tiu'ht metal cases there, con-
tiiining 120 rations, or ten days for twelve men, uistead
of the regular de[)6t farther on, tlius reserving four
days for possible delays in re])assing the Black Horn
CiiHs. Dr. Cop])inger, wlio was to leave us on the
oth, could gain nothing by waiting until tliat time, as
we were then halted in order to cut a long extent of
road ; so, giving us such ])rovisions as he could spai'e,
he set out on his retiUMi, havuig himself the day before
walked on to Ca[)e Stanton.
187G
A1TEAI5ANCE OF SCURVY.
93
' Not only "svas t lie .^lope travelling very slow, but
both men and sledu^es suffered from it. The work wjis
unusually hard, and the strain on the ankles caused
them to swell and become stiff; the heavily-loaded
sledges, from (;ontinually resting on one rinmer, bent
it inwards, and in the case of the five-man sledge, not
only exhausted the su])ply of s])are uprights, but
eventually proved the ruin of the entire nnmer. How-
ever, the end Avas near at hand, and on the morning
of the 5th we encamped at Cape Stanton, which would
have been in sight the whole thne had not the weather
been densely thick.
' Our next start was made in high s])irits, the
slo])es were })assed; the sun shone once more, and a
wide bay lay before us, but though it was infinitely
better than what we had had, still deep soft snow
made our distances travelled very short. It was at the
end of this journey. May 0th, that J. J. Hand, one of
my sledge crew, told me in answer to my inquiry as
to why he was walking lame, that his legs were
becoming very stiff; he had s|)oken to Dr. Coppinger
about them, but attributing the stiffness and soreness
then to several tails that he had had, he did not think
nuicli of it, before that ofiicer's departure ; now, how-
ever, there was pain as well as stifihess, and both were
mcreasmg.
' In our next journey we passed another fine bay,
whose level and inibroken surface a])peared not to have
been distiu'bed for many years. Diu'ing lunch-time we
dug through two and-a-half feet of snow, and came
to ice which was perfectly fresh for three inches
down; this was ahnost at the entrance of the bay. I
I
i!
94
VOYACfE TO THE POLAIl SEA.
May
observed here also tliiit from Cape Stanton tlie .sliore
liad been lined witli floel)erL^s of irreat size, i)arti('nlarlv
at tliis l)ay, Avlii(;li I called Franklield Bay, while from
Drift Point to Ca[)e Stanton the iloeber<xs Avere miu'h
broken ii]), the shore hummocks consistinu^ of accimin-
lated blocks, sometimes attaininij a iireat heiirht.
' To seaward there apjieared to be larijfe tracts of
LTood travellintjf ice, thouuh the hummock rid<j:es were
undoubtedly heavy, U]) to Cape Stanton hi<ih land
and rocky clifls, reachinif to the very sea, was the
character of the country, but that seemed to end with
that enormous mass which I luxmed Rockhill. Beyond
was a low foreshore, with ])oint after point ]irojecting
out, the land ixradually rising into low rounded hills,
with only a distant backuToimd of mountains. This
aspect of the country promised better travellinp;, and I
was anxious to push on ; but as usual, " more hiuTy,
less speed," for after crossing Frankfield Bay, and
draixpnijj the sledges over a hill 150 feet liiuh — the
only ])racticable route — both Lieutenant Eawson and
myself came reluctantly to the conclusion that the men
were very nuich done, and required n day's rest ; as
we had been draufuinu" ourselxes all the time we Avere
better able to iudue of their feelinirs. Hand, avIio had
thouuht himself better at starting:, Avas uoav quite lame ;
so Ave camped, determined to Avait for a day, in the
hope that rest Avould restore both the lame and tired.
' I Avill now explain Iioav it Avas that I had to send
Lieutenant Eawson back. On coming ijito camp I
examined Hand's legs, and from Jiis description of the
stilliiess and ])ain I susjjccted scurvy. I had no reason
to expect it, indeed I iiad never thought of it, but the
1870
RAAVSON ORDERED TO RETURN.
1)5
striking resemblance of the symptoms to the ones
described in the voya|?e of the "Fox," as beinuf those
of Lieutenant Hobson, wlio suffered severely from
scurvy, sugjjfested it to my mind, and my susf)icions
were confirmed by Gray, the captain of my sledge, an
i(^e quartermaster, who, in his whaling experience, has
seen much of it. He, however, led me to believe, at
the same time, that it would ])robably wear off. Thus,
from the 7tli until the 10th I waited, hoping that his
words might prove true.
' I was very relu(;tant to order Lieutenant Eawson
to retiu'n ; it was like sending back half the party ; it
would be, I felt, a great disappointment to him to turn
back then, and the loss of his advice and assistance would
be considerable ; but the indications of the disease
and tlieir aggravated nature became too plain to be
misunderstood — sore and inflamed gums, loss of
ajipetitc, etc., all pointed too clearly to scurvy ; so on
the 10th of May it was arranged that Lieutenant
Eawson, with his party, should take Hand back,
deciding, on his arrival at Ee])ulse Harbour, whether
to cross over to the " Alert " or go on to Polaris Bay.
I at the same time called ujion the remainder of my
men to say honestly if they suspected themselves to be
suffering from the same disease, or could detect any of
its sj'mptoms, as in tliat case it would be better for the
party to advance reduced in numbers than to be
charged with the care of sick men. I did this because
two of them had com]ilained of stifflegs after the hard
work on the snow-slopes ; but they all declared them-
selves to be nov/ ])erfectly well, and most anxious to go
on.
i
9G
VOYAOE TO THE VOT.Ml SEA.
M\\
' I (lid not take one of Lieutenant Rawson's men to
fill u]) my crew, for I feared that tlie time mijj^ht come
when he would have to carry Hand, and I susjiected that
Geor^'e Bryant, the captain of the sledjj^e, was already
affected with the same disease. Thus it was that early
on the morning of the lltli of May Lieutenant Eawson
left me, miicli to my regret, he making the best of his
way back, whilst I contimied to advance with six men.'
It will be most convenient here to follow Lieu-
tenant Eawson in his journey to Polaris Bay.
Owinrj o two more of his crew breaking down,
leaving only himself and one man, E. Eayner, strong
enough to drag the sledge, they only succeeded in
reaching Polaris Bay on the 3rd of Jime, after a most
arduous journey on reduced rations, and during several
days of which Eawson was himself so badly affected
with snow-blindness tliat lie had to pull tlie sledge
while blindfold.
James Hand expired a few hours after their
arrival at Polaris Bay. George Bryant and Michael
Eegan were both attacked — the former very severely —
but knowing that his extra weight on the sledge would
endanger the lives of all, he manfully refused to the
last to be carried. It was entirely due to Lieutenant
Eawson's genial and inspiriting conduct and to his firm
conunand, tliat the (M'ippled band succeeded in reaching
the de]i6t.
Four days subsequent to their arrival. Lieutenant
Fulford and Dr. Coppinger, with Hans and the dog-
sledge, arrived opportunely from examining Petermann
Fiord, and the invalids obtained the benefit of pro-
fessional advice.
1870
rROCEEUINGS AT POLARIS BAY.
07
Although Eawsoii's ejirly return liad left Bcau-
iiiout sufficient j)rovi.sious to last until the 28th, the
little l)arty at Polaiis Bay were naturally anxious eon-
cerning the health of his men. Accordingly Kawson
^vith Hans and eight dogs, aceoni])anied by Di*. Ct)[)-
pinger — whose ])atients had recovered sufruuently for
them to be left to the care of Lieutenant Fulford —
started on the 22nd of June, and most providentially
met Beaumont in Newman Bay on the 2r3th, on the
very last march the party coidd possibly have per-
formed without helj).
Beaumont, with Alexander Gray, captain of the
sledge, and Frank Jones, were dragging forward their
four helpless comrades, lashed on to]) of the sledge and
made as comfortable as the circumstances j)ermitted,
two at a time, thankful if they advanced oidy half a
mile a-day.
I will now continue the relation of Lieutenant
Beaimiont's join-ney.
On the lOtli of May he ascended Mount Wyatt,
2,050 feet, called so after Lieutenant Wyatt Eawson.
' I had noticed that morning as we came along the
coast that all our big Hoebergs had disa])peared, and
now I saw the reason why — for starting from the shore
close under our position, and stretching away for ten
or twelve miles in the direction of Moinit Hooker, was
a distinct line of demarcation : it then turned to the
northward, and ran straight for the west end of the
distant land. All to the eastward of this Ixjundary was
smooth and level, while to the westward lay the Polar
pack, with its floes and chains of hununocks.
'On the 11th we arrived at the end of the lui-
VOL. II. a
Hi
li
W
I
98
V()YA(}H TO THE TOLAR SEA.
May
broken ('oast-liiR' iiloiitf which we liad hitluM-to travellod
in a north-easterly (Hrection, and, as the j^'eneral direc-
tion oF tile land beyond was more easterly, this ninst
have been onr hiixhest northei'ii ])oint reached. Un-
fortnnately, tlionjiii we twice halted here, each time it
snowed liea\ ily, and I was nnable to <fet a meridian
altitnde. With a crew I'ednced to six tmd a proba-
bility of mv not beintr able to di';iL!', which I had done
hitherto, I came to the conclnsion that to do uood
work in the wide held of operations opening befoiv us
we nuist liifhten the sled<fe at all cost ; so here, at this
])oint, which I called Cai)e Brj'ant, we left adei)ot,and
thus liLditened started for Caj^e Fulford, which is the
north extremity of the line of clifls on the west side of
St. George's Fiord.
' In obedience to my orders it was necessary that T
should examine wh:it ap])eared to be adeej) inlet ; but
now that I w;is alone I felt that the utmost that I
couhl hope to do, and which seemed to uie would be
of the mo.st service, was to follow and ascertain the
direction of the mainland as far as I could, at the
same time taking every op])ortmiity of ascending high
mountains to obtain the fullest information relative to
tiie off-lying islands, if such existed. Thus it was that,
after looking into St. George's Fiord, I ])ushed on
towards Dragon Point. The road across the mouth
of the Fiord, which was exposed to the north wind,
Avas very good (the only good bit we ever had), being
hard and nearly level, and we did the nine miles vvitii
ease and conqjarative ])leasure.
' Arrived at Dragon Point, we opened out another
wide reach of bays and liords, and while debating in
1870
GRKl'XLANI) SI.KDGK JOUUNHY.
•lU
iny own iiiiiul wliicJi to follow I felt how ))owerle.ss I
WHS, siiijfle-liaiuled, to follow out .such numerous and
extensive lines of ex|)loralion. I was most anxious to
reach Mount Hooker, as I considered that from its
summit I should not only see the islands to the north,
but <zet tlie best idea of the trend of the mainland ; at
the same time I felt I could not leave these wide and
deej) liords behind me, any one of which miudit be a
throu^di ])assa^'e ; so, holdiiiL' to my orij^'inal j)lan, we
started for Cape Cleveland.
' On our way we |)assed some most remarkable ice-
hills, which from a distance we had taken for islands.
Souie stood sin<dy, huire masses of solid blue ice risin«jf
<]fently, with rounded outlines, from thirty to forty feet
above the floe ; others, grouped together, looked like a
mountainous country in miniature, and formed far too
formidable a barrier for us to overcome.
' Up to the IGth of May the travelling since
leaving Cape Fulford had been pretty good and the
progress fair, but that same evening when we started
again it was through soft snow about eigliteen inches
deep ; this was very disap])ointing, for the lloe looked
most promising ; in fact, the whole of this vast tract as
far as we could see, from M(mnt May to Cajje Buttress,
was one level plain, over which we ex|)ecte(l to travel
easily and rapidly. We ])ushed on, lioj)ing for better
things, and at camping time had reached, not the
island we had started for — that we had missed in a dense
fog — but another smaller one, about one and-a-half
miles west of it. The travelling had become worse and
worse, the snow varied from two and-a-half to four and-
a-half feet in thickness, and was no longer crisp and
«2
I
I
m
i
ll
f
i
k(^'
»
100
VOYAGE TO THE POT.AK SEA.
J[ay
(Irv, I)iit of tlie coiisisteiicy of moist suiijir ; Avalkiiiir
Avu.s most oxliaustiiijjf, one literally luul to climb out of
tlio holes made by each foot in succession, the hard
ci'iist on the to|), wliicli would oidy Just 7iot bear you,
as well as the dei)tli of tlie snow |)reventin^^ you from
jHisliing forward throujih it, each lejz sank to about
tiu'ee inches ahove the knee, and the effort of liftinj^
them so liijili to extricate tlieni from their tiL'ht-iittin<j
holes, soon beixan to tell upon tlie men. William
Jenkins, Peter Craiir, and Charles Paul eom])hiined of
stiffness in the hamstrinufs, and all of us were very tired.
The morniuix was most betiutiful, but the island close
to us was inaccessible on account of ji reef, which
caused the tides to break u\) the i(;e at its marLfin, and
to maintain a barrier of water roimd it. I coidd find
no way ])ast this, and to have ^one round to the other
side, or to the other island, would have been four hours'
hard work throu^^h that snow, so I irave it up.
' Our next march was made imder a hot sun,
throujjh snow never less than three feet thick ; we
were ])arched with thirst, and obliged to halt every
fifty yards to recover breath.
' The shore for which we were makinu^ did not
seem more than two miles off, so I went ahead to see
if the tiavelliuir was better under the cliffs. I cot
about a mile and-a-half ahead of the sledge in three
hours, and then aave it u]). I was nearly done ; so I
hailed them to u'o to lunch, but woidd rather liave
missed three meals than jj^one back all that distance, so
I had a good rest and made a sketch instead ; and
then seeing that the sledge would never I'eacli me that
day I started back for them, walking in my tracks.
1876
GKKENLAXl) Srj:D(iE JOUliM'A'.
101
In llie nioiiiiliiiio llic ini'ii liad luvii stniLrijliM.uf on as
best tlicy could, sonR'timcs draLiiri'iiJ tlic sledire on
tlicir liands and knees to relieve their acliinix le^'s, or
haulinji her ahead with a lon;^' roj)e and staiidin«r ])ulls.
When we en('ani])ed we had hardly done two miles,
and Jones was added to the list of stifl-leirLn'd ones.
'The next march, May 19th, they could hardly bend
their lejjs. We tried every kind of expedient. We
made a road for the men to walk in, and tracked the
sledjie. Then we tried a broader one for botli sied^M?
and men, but all to no ])ui'])ose ; and at last went back
to the usual way, and tu<jfjj:ed and <jfasj)ed on, resting
at every ten or twelve yards. In my journtd I find
this entry for the day : " Xobody will ever believe
what hard woi'k this becomes on the fourth day; but
this may <xive them some idea of it. When halted for
lunch, two of the men crawled for 200 yards on their
hand^s and knees, rather than walk unnecessarily
tln-ouLrh this awful snow ; but althoudi tired, stiff, and
sore, there is not a word of complaint ; they are
cheerful, hoi)eful, {ind determined. Since twelve
o'clock it has been my birthday; but I can safely say
I never spent one so before, and I don't want to be
wished any hap})y returns t)f it." That march we did
not make much over a mile. Everyone was very
tired with the unusual exertions of the last few days,
and the work was ])ain and i^rief to those with stifl' le^^s.
Matters did not look promising; at all. I had started
across the channel first to see down past Cape But-
tress, and after reaching Eeef Island the northei'u shore
looked so near that I came to the conclusion that Ave
had better push on, reach the land, and coast along to
I!
102
YUYAfil') TO Till-: roi.AU SEA.
Mav
Mount ITookor. i^o wo went on for two days, nntil
iXoin<r biick seemed as hard work as jjoiiiL; on. Our
provisions wonld compel us to start liomeward on the
2^]r(l. We conld not (h) two miles a-(hiy, and tlie
men were f'alhn^^ sick. I (hd not encoura_L^e insj)ecti()n
of kys, and tried to make them tliink as little of the
stiffness as ])ossil)le. for I knew the unpleasant truth
"Would sf)on enouLdi he forced upon us.
'We started auain on the evenin<z of the 10th, and
■worked away as hefoi-e ; hut our ])ro<,n ess was ridicu-
hnisly small, and something had to be done : soleavinsx
the sled^ie we started in two ranks, four a-breast, to
make a road to the shore, for tlie actual dra»i<rinfx was
nothinrj compared to the exertion of makin^i the road.
The shore still looked about one mile off: it had
looked the same for two days past, and, to our astonish-
ment and dismay, we walked for five hours without
reaching it. It Avas evidently imjiossible, on a floe so
level that there was nothinjx in siirlit the size of a
brick, to estimate the distance of the hitjfli and pre-
cipitous I'liffs in front of us. I jdtered my ])lans and
sent them back to lunch and rest, while Gray and I
went on. It took us two hours more to reacli the
clifls, and Avhen we did, it was to find the same dee])
snow reach their very foot ; for a hundred yards from
the sliore the ice was seamed with wide cracks covered
by snow, into which the sledufe itself mi^dit have dis-
a])pearcd. These had water in them, the surface of
which was quite fresh, jU'obably due to the <.dacier
which we knew to be close bv, thouufh now evei'ythin<'
was hidden by a thick fog.
' 1 now saw to my great disappointment that we
1H70
iJKAUMoNTS KKTUltN .lOUUNKY.
lo:?
could not rcacli ^roiiiit HookiT, mid I cjmu' to the
conclusion it would he useless to iidviince any tai'ther
with the sledp', as tiii'n which way we would, there
was the same smooth, treacherous expanse of snow,
and oidy two days' ])rovisi()iis, which would nut have
cnal)le(l us to reach any j)art of the shore ; so I went
back to the tent after nine aiid-a-half hours' hai'd
march, and found two men, J. CraiL' and Wni. Jenkins,
unmistakahlv scurvv-stricken.
'I therefore decided to wait where we were, if
necessary, for two days, in hojjcs of heinu' al)k' to
ascend a liiLdi peak just o\er the Lrlacier, and I'rom
that elevation decide the question of the chaimel past
Cape Buttress, as well as obtain a view of the distant
islands. It seemed too cruel to have to turn back
after such hard work, without reachiiiif the land or
seeinj; anvthiuLf, and I was pleased and encouraircd by'
the anxiety the men showed to make tlie end of our
ex])edition more successful. But it was not to be.
May 21st— it snowed hard all day; ^May •J'ind — the
same ; and a strict survey of the piovisions wai'ued us
that we must start homewards.
'We left on the eveniuLr of the 22nd, a mournful
and disappointed ])arty (for the feeling Avas shared by
all), with two men walkinjf by the dra<; ropes, and
none of the others, Alexander Gray and myself ex-
ce])ted, any the better for their lon<jr rest. We found,
much to om* relief, that keejMnL*" to our old tracks
enabled us to do three times the distance, as we had
not to break the road nor lift our leirs. I halted at
Reef Island, and left a record in a cairn on its north
end, according to my instructions, but reserved the
104
VOYACJK TO TIIK P(H-AK SEA.
May
I;
U^
skeleton cliiirt ior :i pliice more likely to he visited.
We then pushed on tliron}.di the thickly rallin}.' snow,
which hiid not stopped ior an instant ; thon;_di two of
the men were hiid, the others soon warmed nj) to the
work a^'iiin, and the improved tiavellin;jr enabled ns to
iioi on taster in spite ot" the ^ieneral thaw, so that we
reached the neiLdihoni-hood of our camp of the loth
on the 24th, returninji in two days what had taken us
six to advance.
'Just bel'oi'e campiiiL' on the 24th a north wind
rose, and, as if by nniLMc, the sky cleared, and it
l)ecaine u beautiful morninjjf : thei'e hiy Mount Hooker
once more in si^dit, distance about sixteen miles, from
which, as I believed, we should see everything'; it was
too tem])tin<r, so the men a<jfreein<jr ea<jferly, the ])laii
was arrau'jfed. Craiir and Jenkins were to remain
with the tent, jn-ovisions, and «jfear, whilst the re-
mainder, with one robe, bajjfs, and five days' provisions,
were to make a dash for the mountain ; the provisions
weie neatly ])acke(l in day's rations, and eveiythin<^
beinjjf ready we turned in for a L'ood rest.
' When we awoke it wr».s snowing hard, as if it
would never sto]), so not a \Nord was said, but we
])acked u]) and started hon^.^^vards more disappointed
than I can say. hy the time we had reached Dragon
Point it had cleai'ed again ; this was the ])lace where I
liad settled to build a cairn, an(I leave the chart and
record. One of the liiLdiest mountains in the neiixh-
bourhood was only six miles off, so I determined on
one more effort. The cairn was buih, the record and
chart deposited, and Alexander Gray and I set off for
the mountain ; it took us six liours to reach the toj) ;
1870
JJKAUMONTS RKTUHN .lOlKNKY
105
\hv view Wiis iiiii;iiiiHc('iit, I'lcviitinii oJOO IW't, hut I
did lint sec what I A\iiMt(.'(h 'J'hi' .Mount Hooker Land
liid the islands, and th(. Ca|K' linttivss ('liainicl was
shut in. Mount Aihi-i't I could sec was a si'paralt'
island. C\\\)v lirilannia, as lar as could he seen, had
very hi^di land far hack. StcpluMison Land was rjuitc
liiddcn ht'hind ^h)unt Hooker Land, which latter
towards Cape Buttress extended very far hack to
the eastward. Cape Jiuttress ()vei'lai)ped it, hut inside
and ahove the ca|)e could he seen either a luunmocky
floe, or a mer tie (flare, it looked like a floe, hut its sky-
line liad a perceptihle cm ve in it — a haze hun^' over
tills ])art. By the look of the land and shore a passa^'e
seemed to comiect St. Oeorj/e's Fiord with St. Andrew's
Bay. St. Georjje's Fiord could he traced continuing
to the south after nuikin*; a sli^dit hend to the west.
The view inland in that direction stretched away with-
out a hreak as ftir as the eye could reach, all much
ahout the same elevation. Mount Punch stood out
from most of the other moimtains, and Grjuit's Land
was distinctly visihle, the United States' Ean<j[e hein<^
very cons])icuous. The view was so inunense that to
sketch it would have heen the work of a day. I tried
after havin^v taken a round of ani.des, hut the cold was
intense, and my lin^^ers soon hecame stifl'; rising' clouds
w'arned us to descend, and hy the time that we reached
the tent, twelve hours after startinir, it was hlowinjjf
fresh with thick snow and fog. After a short rest we
OJice more started, making for Cape Fulford ; the
gloomy and unfavourahle weather had a depi-essing
influence on the men's spirits, who, poor fellows, were
already rather desponding, for out of se\en only Gray
106
VOYAGE TO THE TOLAll SKA.
Mav
r t
and myself were ])eife('tly free from scorbutic symp-
toms, wliile tlie two first attacked kept up with great
difficulty.
' In due course of time we arrived at Ca])e Bryant,
and cam])ed below the de|)6t.
' Quite a foot of snow had fallen since we had
])assed, and it was rottinfj the old crust beneath, which
gave way under the weight of sledge and men, and
made the sledge seem a ton in weight.
' During the very bud weather, which continued
about this tune for many days, I ])itched the tent over
the sledge when halted for lunch, thus keejnng the
men imder shelter and the gear dry, and ])roviding a
comfortable seat for the sick ; by putting the sledge
quite on one side of the tent there was room enough
for all the rest to sit alongside it on the sail on the
other side.
' This comfortable rest of two hours ! with an extra
ha!f-])int of tea, Avas thouglit more of, and seemed to
do them moi-e good, than anything else we could
devise, juid so was adhered to for the remainder of the
time.
' On the 28th of May, finding that we could not go
on draiTLnnir the full load (with four men) throuL'h the
heavy snow, we made u]) u depot consisting of ])emmi-
can, a covei'let, all the knapsacks and gear, s])irits of
wine, ])art of tlie tent, &.C., in all about 200 lb., and
got on much better afterwards. We gradually retraced
our ste])s until the morning of the ^^rd of June. U[)
to this tune the weather had been one continuous
snow-fall with thick fogs; the sun once or twice came
out for an hour or so and then snow fell again. The
187(')
BEAUMONT S IIKTURX JOURNEY.
107
sick were Lrettinji worse steadily; for the last two days
neither Paul nor Jenkins could keep U]) with the
sledue, but <M-awled alonir aftei* it, and often kept ua
waiting, for I would not let them <ret too far behind.
Crai<j was very bad, but still hobbled alouijf with us.
Dobiuir and Jones were jxettinjx stiffer and stiffer, but
.still ])ulled their best. Gi'ay and myself were the only
sound ones left. The sick scarcely ate anythinir ; they
could not .sleej) nor lie still.
' Having left a record at the cairn, and taken forty
out of the eighty comi)lete rations, we started again in
the evening, and had not gone ten yards before Paul
fell down quite powerless, and from that time imtil the
end he was like one ])aralysed, his legs were so com-
])letely useless to him. Jenkins still crawled along,
but his time was drawing near, and on the 7th he took
his place ah^igside Caul on the sledge. We now had
to make two journeys a day, taking the provisions and
baggage on for half the tune and then coming back
for the tent and the sick. With great labour we got
round Snow Point, but Drift Point Avas im])assable to
us, and so we had to go out on. the ice.
'On the 10th of June we reached lie])ulse Harbour
dei)6t, the weather having once more relapsed into a
steady snow-fall. I\'eling the urgent necessity of
getting the sick under medical care, for both Paul and
Jenkins were alai-miii<_dy weak and short of breath, I
read the recoi'ds carefully, and having considered the
matter in all its bearings to the very best of my ability,
I determined to cross over to the " Alert." Everything
was to be sacrificed to getting over quickly; so we
again made up a depot and left everything we could
I i
108
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
June
.1
j,;
possibly s])are, iiu'ludiiijjf tlie tent, jjfim, and niy sextant
and knife, tiie only two thinjis I liad left. We started
on the eveninjjf of the lltli, and had not ijfot a mile
from the shore hinnmocks before we came to water.
It was a lar<;e black-looking ])ool, sin-i-ounded for some
distance by ice, so rotten that sled<fe, sick, and all
would have gone in at the first step off' the thicker
floe.
' This obstacle at the very outset, where I so little
ex])ected it, made me stoj) short, knowing the strong
tides and cm-rents that existed on the other shore. I
felt that with a sick and enfeebled crew the risk was
too great, so we turned back and landed again. We
had com])leted from the depot to eight days' provisions ;
that woidd have been ample to cross with. Now we
had to make the best of our way to Polaris Bay, forty
miles off". The question was how much more to take ;
we ate so little, that eight days would last us twelve
I knew, and if we went on as we had done that Avoidd
be enough ; so taking the tent and gun from the depot
we started along the coast. Next march Dobing
broke down altogether, and Jones felt so bad he did
not think he could walk much longer. Poor fellows !
Disa])])ointment at the change of routes had much to
do Avith it.
' This was our darkest day. We were forty miles
off* Polaris Bay at the very least, and only Gray and
myself to draix the sledire and the sick — the thiiiir did
not seem ])ossible. However, it was clear that we
must take all the provisions, and then })usli on as long
and as far as we could ; so we went back to the depot,
Gray, Jones, and I, and brought the remainder, ten
1870
BEAUMOXTS RETURN JOURNEY.
109
(lavs, inalvlng us up to eijihteeii days ; tlieii on Ave
went.
' Craiijf now could barely walk, but his eourajre did
not fail. Dobin<jf became rajMdly worse, but fortu-
natelv Jones revived, and there were still three on the
drag-ropes. We toiled ])aint'idly through M'Connick
Pass, a very luird road, all rocks and water, but very
little snow. The work towards the end became ex-
cessively severe on accomit of the narrowness and
steepness of the passes. The sledge liad to be un-
loaded and the sick lowered down separately in the
sail. At last we got into Newman Bay, and found the
travelling on the Hoe quite a rest ; but the work had
told on the men who were left, and though Jones still
dragged witli difHculty, it was evident that soon both
he and Gray would be too ill to pidl at all. I felt
stiff and sore abt)ut the body from constant over-
exertion, but I did not exiiibit any of the well-known
scurvy symptoms as yet. We were travelling very
slowly now, for Craig, who had held out so long, could
scarcely stand, and he and Dobing had to be waited
for constantly.
' On the 21st of June we camped about ten miles
from the bottom of the bay, close to the west or south
shore. It soon after came on to blow a gale, and the
s(]ualls were so violent and changeable in their direc-
tion that all our efforts to keep the tent standinjx were
unavailing, and we had to put the sick on the sledge
and cover them over whh the sail ; but the driftin<f
snow which whirled around us ])enetrated everywhere,
and soon wet them through, and they caught colds,
which nuide Paul much worse afterwards.
|1 i
in
110
VOYAGE TO THE POL All SEA.
June
'III the afternoon of same day tlie Aviiid lulled, and
by using the guys, sledge-lashings, and drag-ropes, we
managed to piteh the tent after an hour's hard work.
We put the sick in, and tried to make them comfort-
able ; but the tent was badly pitched, and the squalls
from the cliffs, more like whirlwinds, sometimes made
the two sides meet in the middle. We were all
huddled up in a lieap, wet through, and nobody could
sleej).
' This went on until noou of tlie 22nd, when the
wind having gone down we re[)itched the tent and had
a few hours' I'est, which we so much needed. At 9.30
we started ; but the wet and cold had stiffened our
limbs, and for the first time I felt the scurvy pains in
my legs. Craig and Dobing almost dragged them-
selves along, their breath failing entirely at every ten
yards — this appears to be the most marked feature of
the advanced stage of the disease ; tdl four now, but
es])ecially Paul and Jenkins, gasped for breath on the
sliglitest exertion — it was painful to watch them. We
were a long way from Polaris Bay still, and I did not
see how we were to reach it inider the circumstances.
' On tlie 2ord of June it became necessary to carry
both Dobing and Craig, to enable us to advance at all ;
and altliough this in our weakened state made three
trips each day necessary, and limited our advance to a
mile, yet we were still moving on.
' Oil the evening of the 24th we started for our last
journey with the sledge, as I thought ; for finding that
Jones and Gray were scar(;ely able to pull, I had
determined to reach the shore at the plain, pitch the
tent, and walk over by myself to Polaris Bay to see if
1870
ME1:TS RELlf^F PARTY.
Ill
tliero was auyone tliere to hel]) us; if not, cou\g buck,
uiul seiuliiijj: Jones and Gray, who coiikl still walk, to
the depot, renuiin with the sick and L'et theni on as
best I could. But I thank God it did not come to
this, for as we were ])lodding alon<>' the now water-
sodden floe towards the shore, I saw what turned out to
be a doo--sled^^e and three men, and soon after had the
])leasure of shakinu' hands with Lieutenant liawson and
Dr. Coppinyfer. Woi'ds cannot express the pleasm-e,
relief, and p-atitude we all felt at this timely meeting;
it did the sick men all the uood in the woi'ld.
' Lieutenant Eawson had, in my opinion, a(;ted
with (_n-cat judijfment in planninuf his relief expedition,
for had he come sooner he not oidy might have
missed us altogether, but tlie small force at his disposal
would not have been of so nuich service. As it was,
he came in time, with sufficient provisions, and by
one great effort got us all into safe quarters, as I shall
explain.
' We met early on the morning of the 25th of
June, and with the help of his ])arty reached the Xew-
man Bay depot the next day. Dr. Coppinger watching
the four now utterly prostrate sick with unremitting
attention. Half a day was spent here in an atteni])t to
obtain a seal, but witliout success, and so next mornin«'
we started for the depot at Polaris Jiay, the dogs, with
the assistance of the three officers, dragging both
sledixes. It is mainly due to Hans' clever maiuiii^ement
of the dogs, and his skill as a driver, that we were
enabled to advance so ra[)idly with such a heavy load.
That evening, when we camped, we were only twelve
or thirteen miles from the depot. lioth Paul and
!
ii
! .»
112
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
.TtTNB
Jenkins were now in a critical condition, but Paul
more so than Jenkins.
' I felt tlie ini|)ortance of gettiuLj theni both to a
state of complete rest as quickly as ])ossible, an opinion
in wliich Dr. Coppinger (;oncurre(l ; so on the morning
of the 28th Dr. Copjiinger and Hans, with the two
men on the eigl it-man sledge drawn by tlie dogs,
started for tlie Polaris Bay depot. Soon after, Lieu-
tenant l^awson and myself, having placed Craig and
Dol'ing on 'lie five-man sledge, as well as the tent and
all tlK; gcui , but only two days' provisions, also started
for the same destination. Jones and Gray, who coidd
still walk, Mio.v^:i» slowly, came on behind. Fortu-
nately for us two, the wind helped us for some time ;
but later on, the travelling becoming very heavy, we
were obliged to camp, having accomplished a little
o\er three miles.
' Next day, as we supposed tlie sledge on its way
back to us, and I was anxious to move tlie sick men
as little as possible, I determined to await its arrival.
This did not occur until 3 a.m. of the 30th of June ;
and the whole party were so done, dogs and men, that
they had sujiper and turned in. They brought me a
letter from Dr. Co[)pinger saying that he had had a
very arduous Journey, and had not rejiched the dei)6t
until midnight. The extremely rapid thaw of the
snow on the plain obliged them to cross broad strips of
bare shingle, while the floe was so seamed with cracks
tliat they must have travelled double the distance in
looking for a road. The sick had borne the journey
well, and eaten with good appetite on their arrival ;
but from noon of the 29th, Paul had gradually grown
1876
DEATH OF CIIAIiLES PAUL.
113
weaker and weaker until he died at 5.15 p.m. Jenkins
was no worse. I was very much grieved at Paul's
death. I had watched him and cared for him so lon«r,
and had hoped so that we might not be too late, that
I felt his death very much. However, we were not far
from the end of this arduous journey now ; the thing
was to get the remainder in as soon as possible ; so at
seven o'clock we once more started. Lieutenant Eawson
and his party taking the sick on the eight-man sledge
round by the sledge route, while I took Gray and
Jones round by the foot of the hills. We three
reached the depot at 7 a.m., and were warmly wel-
comed and cared for by Lieutenant Fulford, Dr. Cop-
pinger, and the two men in camp. Lieutenant Eawson,
with his party, arrived at 11 a.m., after a very heavy
journey, having travelled nearly all the way on bare
shingle. So at last we were all safely in, in good
hands and comfortable quarters.
' The next day being Sunday, I read the Morning
Service, all of us joining most heartily and fervently in
rendering thanks to Almighty God for His gracious
mercy and protection towards us.'
VOL. II.
114
VOYAGE TO THE I'OLAR SEA.
Jl'LY
CHAITER IV.
LEAVE FliOEBEUa UEACH — NAVIQATION OF ROBESON CHANNEL — ITS
EXTREME DIFFICULTY — CAPE UNION — STOPPED AT CAPE BEECHEY —
ESKIMO REMAINS — HRENT OEESE — REJOIN THE 'DISCOVERY*
KILLING A MUSK-OX — RETURN OP BEAUMONT's PARTY.
li
The gale which was experienced at Floeberg Beach on
the 31st of July, and which released the ' Alert ' from
her exposed position on the shore of the Polar Sea, was
merely felt at the sheltered position of Discovery Bay
as a light air from the southward. It is worthy of
note that at the same time, near the head of Baffin's
Bay, Sir A lien Young in the ' Pandora ' experienced a
very severe storm from the southward, evidently part
of the same disturbance as that which reached Floeberg
Beach.
As the ' Alert ' cleared the barrier of grounded ice,
which had proved so excellent a protection to her
during the past eleven months, the Polar pack was
found to have drifted to a distance of a quarter of a
mile from the land, leaving a broad water-passage which
continued until Robeson Channel was entered. From
that point the water-way gradually narrowed, until, at
u position about four miles north of Cape Union, the
])ack pressed tightly against the shore, and formed an
effectual barrier to oiu* farther i)rogiess.
L.
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1870
ICE-WALL.
115
z
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QJ B
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'
Tliere bein«; no good jnotection attuinahle unless
we retraced our steps to Floebei-g Jieacli, twelve miles
distant, I secured tlie shij) in a small indentation of the
ice-foot or ice-wall. Our ])osition was close to the
southward of a number of fioeber<:s which had grounded
in a line with the shore outside of the ice-wall. These
I hoped would afford us some slight protection from
the northward ; but in the direction of Ca})e Union,
the shore being steeper, there' was nothing to kee]) the
Pdar j)ack away from the ])erpendicular face of the ice-
wall, which was ])olished and horizontally striated by
the grinding of floating ice during prior seasons.
As we steamed along the coast I noti(;ed that only
those points of land which were exposed towards the
north bore traces of recent pressure ; and generally
speaking, there were few signs of the ])ack having ni])ped
against the shore — that is, w^ith the enormous force
necessary to cast up huge masses of ice and deposit them
on the top of the ice-wall, which varied in height to
between thirty and forty feet ; the depth of water along-
side was from five to seven fathoms, and permitted
the ship to run alongside it without any fear of touching
the ground.
During the afternoon the jiack drifted with the flood-
tide slowly towards the south, always nipping apainst
the ice-wall close to the southward of us, but leaving a
narrow water-space near the ship.
The ice in the offing consisted of one large compact
floe — that near the shore, alone, being broken up and
loose, but in no way navigable.
About 8 P.M., with the connnencement t)f the ebb-
tide, a small [)ool of water fonned on the southern side
1 2
IIG
VOYAtSK TO TIIM TOLAU SKA.
AroiiHT
of II Iju'iio Hot! wliicli |)rvvt'iil(.'(l our iidvaiice. Ex-
|)C('tiii^ Jill ()|)])ortUMity would oirciir to ^dide jKist tlie
obstruction, I, ^'ot undiT weinjli, Imt was dis{ij)|)oiiitud,
the pack closinj^ in tijilitor tliancvcr; before I could
return to our small ha\en it had become filled with
ice. There was, therefore, nothing for it but to retrace
our steps towards the north, looking for .some other
indentation in the ice-wall ; but none was to be found.
The mjun body of the pack havinj,' moreover closed in
near Black Cape to the northward and cut off our
retreat in that direction, I was obli^^^ed to secure the
ship between two of the stranded floeber^s, but as they
scarcely projected farllier from tlie land ice than the
breadth of the ship, they could hardly be ex])ected to
afford us nuich protection.
In the evening, dark clouds (Collecting above Cape
Lupton on the east shore of the channel, with a falling
barometer, foretold a recurrence of the southerly wind.
During the height of the ebb-tide the main ])ack
drifted fast towards the north, but fortimately left, in
our immediate neighbourhood, a clear water-space about
two hundred yards broad.
On the 1st the large ' crossing floe,' which afforded
so good a sledge road during the spring, after being
driven completely out of Eobeson Channel towards the
north during the southerly wind of the previous day,
had returned and occu])ied a position close abreast of
the ship. At 2 A.ii., the commencement of the flood-
tide, the nip towards the south eased a little, and I
coidd have adxanced a mile ; but there being no ])ro-
tection available I decided to remain where we were.
At three the officer of the watch informed me that the
]H7({
rOLAU I(T,.
117
pack wns closin*; in fust. Alt1ioii</li tlie riirroiit Imd
cluuip'd ill tlie oHiiijj-, wIktc tlii' ice was (liiCtiii«/
towards the south, tliiit iiislioro was still inoviiiji t'ast to
the north, tlio two movements quickly collecting' the ice
near us. The heavy tioe which had |)reviously sto|)])e(l
our projurress was drift in<_' witli the eddy current
towards the north, scrapin*^' its way alonjjf the ice- wall
in rather an sdannin^' manner as it advanced towards
lis. Steam beinjjr fortunately ready, we cast ofl". and
suc(;eeded in j)assin^' between it and the sliore throuirh
an extremely nari'ow channel, most op|)ortunely o])ened
for lis, as it was ])ivotin«^ round Ji^'ainst the enormous
' crossinjz-floe.' A few moments after we had ])assed,
it closed in aj/ainst the ice-wall at t'.io position we had
so lately vacated.
The difference between an ordinary floe and Polar
ice was here well exenij)lified. The formei", composed
of ice about six feet in thickness, on meetiiifj with an
obstruction is torn in pieces as it presses ])ast it ; the
latter, some ei<jhty or a hiuidred feet thick, forces
its way past any impediment wliich may be in its course,
without damage to itself. Such was the case on this
occasion : the Polar floe, which we only escaped by a
few yards, on iiip])in<i; a<;ainst tlie heavy breastwork of
isolated floeber<jfs linin«; the coast, some of them forty
feet high and many thousand tons in weight, tilted
them over one after another and forced them hifdier
up the shore, without receiving the slightest harm
itself, not a piece breaking away.
Steering onwards through a water-channel, so narrow
that the boats suspended at the davits touched the cliff
of the shore ice-wall on several occasions, we arrived
I
118
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
Auorsi
i
within two miles of Cape Union, but tliere we were
again stopped at 5 a.m.
Fortunately, about fifty yards of the ice-wall had
been removed by a summer torrent, which had melted
a ])assage for itself through the icy barrier, leaving just
sufficient space m which to secure the ship, with her
side resting against the steep beach, and water on her
off side too shallow for any deep floating ice to harm
us much.
The wind was blowing in squalls from the south-
ward, and, in consequence, the ice continued to drift
towards the north with the flood-tide when it should
have been moving the other way.
About nine o'clock a momentary opening occm*red
at the time of high-water, and I was induced to push
off; but within an hour we were obliged to return,
and I considered myself exceedingly fortunate when
we succeeded in regaining our small haven — the only
indentation in the ice-wall for a distance of two miles
either way — -just as the wat^r-space was closed and
we could not have moved a ship's length in any direc-
tion. Eaising the screw and rudder, and removing the
boats from the off-shore side, where they would be
endangered by the ice should it close in, we were as
fully prepared for a nip as we could be.
The following passage is from my journal : —
' The ice between us and the " crossing floe " is of a
decidedly lighter character than we have lately been
accustomed to ; but floating in shallower water it is
really more dangerous to us at present than the
heaviest Polar ice would be.
' It is astonishing with what coolness we have each
187G
TIDE IN ROBESON CHANNEL.
119
I
t
packed up the very few private articles we could pos-
sibly carry with us if the ship were broken up by the
ice. When constantly facing danger such events are
taken as a matter of course.'
-At low-water during the afternoon, the wind
having lulled considerably, the pack commenced to
set to the southward, but except within a distance of
about fifty yards ahead and astern of the ship no water
was to be seen anywhere. The pack nipping against
the ice-wall marked its course by deep horizontal
scratches, and although it scraped its way past the
ship, owing to the protection afforded by the small
haven, she was in no way damaged.
Tidal observations obtained during the evening
gave the time of high-water at 9.55 p.m. We had
tnerefore already caught up the Robeson Channel tide,
which is an hour and a quarter later than that at
rioeberg Beach. With the ebb-tide the pack drifted
towards the north.
Soon after low-water on the morning of the 2nd
the in-shore ice commenced moving towards the south,
while the outer pack continued its course to the north-
east with a westerly wind, from which the in-shore ice
was protected by the high cliffs. At 6.30 a.m a
decided off-shore movement occurring in the ice, steam
was raised, but owing to an eddy ciuTent carrying the
rudder mider the bottom of tJie ship, we experienced
so much trovljle and delay in shipping it that we were
iniable to start for a, space of two hours. We tlien
steamed to abreast of Cape Union, but by that time it
was high-water, and with the change in the tidal
current the channel connnenced to close. 1 then ran
120
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
August
i
m
back a distance of half a mile to a very slight inden-
tation in the ice-wall, so small indeed that only one
end of the ship could be in the least protected ; the
stern being the most vulnerable part was secured in
the notch. As on the previous day, no sooner were we
secured than the pack closed in with the ebb-tide and
tliere was scarcely any water to be seen.
With our weakened crew we found the constant
work with hawsers very laborious, and the services of
the capstan or windlass were constantly called into
requisition.
Being close under the lee of Cape Union, the most
prominent point on the coast, the run of the ice as it
drifted to the northward retained its former course and
left a water-pool about two hundred yards broad in
the immediate neighbourhood of the ship ; there was
therefore no anxiety for her safoty so long as the tide
lasted, but with the south running current there would
be no protection whatever. Accordingly, just before
low-water I was obliged to move the ship, and while
the ice remained stationaiy we succeeded in forcing
our way into the pack for a distance of a quarter of a
mile from the shore ; there the ship was secured among
some fairly sized floes of light ice.
It was naturally with much anxiety on my part
that I thus committed the ship to be drifted helplessly
with the pack, in the hope and belief that it would
convey us past Cape Union, and towards Lincoln Bay,
where we might expect the navigation to become less
difFicidt ; but very little choice was left me.
Although hitherto we had been favoured by find-
ing notches in the ice-wall in which to secure the ship,
!
1870
DRIFT PAST CAPE UNION
121
V
I knew that for tlie next five or six miles we should
meet with an luibroken line of ice-elifTs. Indej)en-
dently of the chances of oiu' being carried by tlie wind
or current towards the north-east out of llobeson
Channel, there was, I considered, less danger to be
apprehended in the ])ack than if we continued to
navigate near the shore.
Shortly after the ship was secured the wliole pack
commenced drifting towards the south, the ice near
the land nipping against the ice-wall and showing how
fortunate it was that we had moved the ship out of the
way. The weather was calm, with a clear atmospliere
and only a few misty clouds flying above the hill-tops
from the westward, Tlie land on either side of
Robeson Channel was distinctly visible, and the change
of scenery as we drifted quickly along, close enougli to
the western shore to distinguish every detail, afforded
contemplation for the minds of all dm-ing our forced
inactivity. As each nnui was now sufficiently ex-
perienced to know the great danger we were riuming,
this was perhaps a fortunate circumstance.
Observations obtained showed that while the tem-
perature of the water at the surface was 30°, at a depth
of five fathoms it was 29°'5, and at the bottom in
forty fathoms 29°"0. An undercurrent was running
towards the soutli with the first ])art of the flood-tide
faster than the surface water was moving.
As we were swept })ast Cape Union, and the land
in the neighboiu'hood of Lincoln Bay came into sight,
I observed a large water-])ool near the shore at a
distance of about six miles from us.
At 10.80 I'.M., by which time we had been carried
I I
t' ,;;
122
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
ArorsT
Hil;
m\
3
lib
three miles to tlie southward of tlie threaded rape, the
ice inshore ceased driftin^jf to tlie southward, but the
lioe to which we were secured continued its course.
Takinjjf advantage of the momentary opening in the
ice thus occasioned, I steamed towards the land in the
vain hope of finding a friendly notch in the ice-wall
in which to secure the ship. The water continuing to
favour us we reached the shore, and I found to my
intense relief that by keeping very close to the ice-
w^all we should be enabled to force a passage through
the lighter pieces of ice bordering the main pack, which
by this time was being carried to the northward by
the tidal current at the rate of at least two miles an
hour.
Such favourable circumstances could not be ex-
pected to last for long, so we proceeded at full speed ;
but this again was a source of danger, and the very
frequent changes of the helm as we made a tortuous
course through the narrow water-channel, frequently
grazing the ice-wall, caused much excitement.
At 2 A.M. on the 3rd all uncertainty of our reaching
the water off Lincoln Bay was at an end, and, the
water-way gradually increasing in width, we bade
good-bye to the pack off Cape Union with no greater
damage than two boats having been badly stove
against the cliff of the ice-wall. Pieces of ice often
fell into them, and that they escaped being torn away
from the davits was a subject of wonder and congratu-
lation.
By this time the fine weather had given place to a
very heavy snow-storm from the south-west, with a
strong wind, which forced the ice off shore and enabled
1870
CAPE BEECIIEY.
123
US to pass Lincoln Bay and Cape Frederick VII. in
perfectly clear water. This was so complete a change
of circumstances that amid our rejoicing few cared to
think of what would have been our fate had we not
fortunately escaped from the Polar i)ack before it com-
menced to drift to the northward with the change of
tide and increasing fair wind.
At 6 A.M. we had passed Wrangel Bay, but found
the ice blocking a passage towards Cape Beechey ;
accordingly the ship was secured to a floe to give time
for a channel to open. After a delay of two hours we
again proceeded, and with little trouble succeeded
in reaching to within half a mile of Cape Beechey just
before high-water.
As at Cape Union, the north-running current
pressed the ice against the land south of the ca})e, but
immediately to the northward a small pool of water
remained clear ; in this pool, without any other pro-
tection, the ship was secured.
In the afternoon, a sudden squall off the land en-
abled us to round the cape and to reach a cluster of
lloebergs lying aground on the shallow beach to the
southward of it. These afforded a fair amount of pro-
tection, and the ship was secured amongst them close
to the shore in three fathoms water.
At Cape Beechey the cliff-like ice- wall rising from
deep water, which is found throughout llobeson Chan-
nel, comes to an end. South of this cape the land
slopes gently down to the sea, and is fronted by a
breast-work of floebergs similar to, but somewhat
smaller than, those which line the shallow parts of the
coast of the Polar Sea.
124
VOYAfiK TO THE TOLAR SEA.
Arfii'ST
III
III
i>!i|
Diiriiijx the 4tli tlie weather was overcast whh snow
squalls from the south-west, with a low barometer but
very Ihtle wind.
Ah the iee had closed in and locked the ship u])
completely, the sportsmen visited the lakes where
thi-ee musk-oxen had been shot the })revious summer
during our passage north.
A number of brent geese wei"e found ; the old birds
having moulted their })inion feathers, and the goslings
not having learnt the use of their wings, were taken at
a disadvantage, and fifty-seven were shot, whicli proved
a very impoi'tant and opportiuie supply of fresh food
for the invalids, of whom we had still eleven remain-
ing. Although unable to fly, these geese were very
difFicidt to secure, as they kept out of range on. the
water ; indeed, few, if any, woidd have been shot had
not Frederick's kayak been carried up to the lake and
launched ; by this means the birds were driven within
range of the guns.
A large floe, apparently unattached to the bottom,
occupied about three-quarters of the surface of the
lake ; its surface was about twelve inches above the
water.
The convalescents enjoyed a rini over the hills,
and succeeded in picking a considerable sup])ly ot
dwarf sorrel, but at this late season it had lost much
of its flavour.
In my journal of this date I wrote : — ' A remark-
able o])ening in the land of Polaris Peninsula, five
miles to the southward of Cape Sumner, on the oppo-
site shore of the channel, looks so like an indenta-
tion in the coast that T very strongly suspect it to be
1870
repuj.se harbour.
125
the Ee|)iilse Harbour of the " Pohiris " expedition.
After a careful study of the narrative of tliat voya,<jfe,
and considering tlie ahnost constant ])ressure of tlie
pack against the hxnd nortli of Newman Bay, I cannot
think that any vessel has ever, or will ever, reacli that
shore, always supposing that she is not carried there
against her will by the pack. It is tlierefore my duty
to future navigators to record this belief in order to
prevent any being blamed if they fail to get to the
northward of Ca])e Brevoort.
' It is astonishing how different the ice is at different
parts of Eobeson Channel. As we came soutli we met
lighter ice, but here we again meet with heavy Polar
floes. Coupled with the observations of Dr. Bessels
and others, who state that the heavy ice drifts up
Lady Franklin Sound, that opening would appear
to act as a ]wcket. After being cleared by a south-
west wind driving the pack towards the north, it is
sufficiently large to receive almost all the ice driven
from the Polar Sea through Robeson Channel with the
change of wind from the north.'
It is oidy dinging seasons when northerly winds
prevail considerably over the westerly ones that the
heavy Polar ice is (tarried south in hirge quantities
down Kennedy Channel into Kane's Sea.
The speed of the slowly-moving tidal currents in
the Polar Sea becomes gradually ticcelerated as they
pass through the narrow Eobeson and Kennedy
Channels. At Floel)erg Beach the rise and fall of tlie
tide is only from one and-a-half to three feet ; at Ca[)e
Frazer, at tlie south end of Kennedy Cliannel, it is
fourteen feet. Consequently, the ice in its passage
126
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
August
southward throuj^h tlie northern portion of that chan-
nel is borne onward with ever-inoreasing speed, and
leaves behind tlie more slu<i^gish moving pack jammed
togetlier in the funnel-shaped Robeson Cliannel.
During our detention near Cape Beechey, the ice
in Eobeson Channel, which is only thirteen miles wide
at that part, drifted up and down the strait with the
tide, the wind having the effect of increasing the speed
of the current and the duration of its flow both towards
the north and the south.
As Captain Stephenson, by liis last orders, conveyed
to him vid Polaris Bay in May, supposed that the two
ships would probably pass a second winter in the
neighbourhood of Discovery Bay, it was necessary to
send him instructions to prepare the ' Discovery ' for
sea, and to inform him of my intention to proceed to
England.
On the 5th Mr. Egerton with a seaman started
with the necessary orders. Tiiey arrived at Discovery
Bay the following morning, after a march of nineteen
hours. Having missed their way, they had crossed a
mountain range two thousand feet high, and after
having walked at least thirty miles over rough and
boggy groimd, arrived on board the ship with their
boots completely worn out.
On the 6th the wind increased considerably from
the north until it blew a gale. During the height of
the flood, or south-going tide, a succession of heavy
floe pieces passed us drifting down the strait, toying
with om' barrier of outlying floebergs, and turning one
large one completely topsy-turvy. It was firmly
aground in twelve fathoms water on an off-lying shoal
1870
NEWS OF BEAUMONT S PARTY.
127
some two Iiuiidred yards from tlic miiin line of the
lloeberj^.s, and had been of great service in kee[)ing tlie
line of the drifting })ack at a safe distance from lis ;
but on this occasion tlie ])oint of a hirge lloe wliicli
was drifting south close insliore brought the weight of
the whole pack on tliis ])articular mass. As it received
the pressure, the fioeberg was reared up in tlie air to
its full height of at least sixty feet above water, and
turning a complete somersault fell over witli a tre-
mendous splash, breaking into a number of pieces
with a great commotion, and raising a wave sufficient
to roll tlie ship considerably.
Our protecting fioeberg having been carried away,
the pack closed in, forcing the lighter floebergs one
after the other, as they became exposed, farther in-
shore, and at last nipped the ship slightly.
In the evening Lieutenant Kawson and two sea-
men arrived from the ' Discovery,' and brought me the
distressing news concerning the Greenland division of
sledgers whicii lias been related in the previous chapter.
He further informed me that Lieutenant Beaumont and
a party were still at Polaris Bay, but that they had
intended starting on the 5th for Discovery Bay.
Although I had the fullest confidence in Lieutenant
Beaumont, I was naturally most anxious concerning
his crossing the strait when the ice was so much
broken-iip and the spring-tides at their greatest height.
Consequently, in addition to our incessant watch for an
opening in the ice by whicli we might advance, many
an anxious look was directed towards Polaris Bay, and
our thoughts were chiefly engrossed on the perilous
position of oiu" comrades thei'e.
128
VOYAGE TO TTir: TOLAll SEA.
August
re I
hi'i!
Oil tlie inoniiiiij: of tlie 7th, the wind still blowiuijf
stroiij^ from the iiortli-eust, hut f^lightly off the luiul on
our side of the chunuel, the ice eased off shore and
cleared the nij) round tlie shij), but did not allow us to
move to a more sheltei-ed position.
In the afternoon, a temporary o])enin<j^ occurrin<x,
steam was raised and the rudder shipped, but owing to
some of the ropes foulinjjr, the latter was not ready
before the ice closed in and imprisoned us a<;ain.
From the summit of Cape Beechey, Polaris Bay,
])einfT a weather shore, was observed to be quite clear
of ice, with water extending to a distance of five or
six miles from the land. Hall's Basin was full of ice
drifting quickly to the southward with the wind and
tide.
While the ship was detained at Cape Beechey,
Captain Feilden obtained some Eskimo relics. The
spot where he foimd them is evidently the northern
limit of the migration of these people on the west side
of the channel. From thence they have crossed to
Polaris Bay, where tlieir traces are again met with.
In the same neighbourhood several rin<Ts of stones
marking the sites of summer tents were found ; and
in one locality numerous flakes of rock crystal which
had been broken off in the process of making arrow
or harpoon heads.
On the morning of the 8th the wind was blowing
very strongly down the channel, and completely pre-
vented any ice drifting to the northward with the ebb-
tide. With the flood, the pack was carried past us at
the rate of two miles an hour.
Owing to several heavy pieces of ice grounding out-
I.
-.jM.^
m.^
mi
1H7H
' ALKKT MI'IM;|) JIY TllK ICK.
121)
\
s'hIc oiir l)iirri(.'i' liiu', iIk' imuT cd^fc of tlit- pack wiis
•iuidi'd iiKU'c towards oiii- position, and at last two
llot'hof^s wcdLTcd tlii'insoKi's aL'aiiist tlic ship, and alU'f
foi'cinL'" litT veiy dose to tlic slioiv, nippt'd Ikt to
such an cxtont that she was raist'd bodily tlnvo i\'v\.
She stood tho ^nvat strain rcmarkahly well, tiio cabin
doors o|)onin^f .and shiittiuir ahnost us easily as usnal.
A lieavy piucu of ice liavin^' ^'roundod outsiiU^ of tlio
slii]), prevented our movinLr until wc had liirhteiaMJ it.
Accordin<ily the lires were put out, the boilers i-un
down, and all hands eni|)loyed cuttin;/ down tlie
stranded iloeberji.
llawson and his tAvo men returned to the 'Dis-
covery.' Feildeu and Parr, Avalkin^' to the southward,
found anotlier lar^jfe flock of ufeese, but they were
unable to shoot nny for want of a boat.
In the afternoon there was less wind. Polaris Bay
was observed to be free of ice, and a few cracks had
opened in the otherwise close j)ack.
The northerly pde experienced in Eobeson Channel
between the (ith and the 8th was also felt by Sir Allen
Y()un<j^ at Cajie Isabella, where, after so zealously
keepin<jf his ])()sitiou under very tryin<r circuuistnnces,
surrounded by ice on a lee shore, it finally forced him
to ])roceed to Hartstene Bay.
On the 9th the weatlier wjis fine. In the middle of
Hall's Basin the ])ack had opened slij^ditly, but was in
no way navi^nible for a ship, even had the ic: in our
neijjfhbourhood permitted our moving.
A shooting ])arty, with the dingy and Frederick's
kayak, went to the southward to look for the brent
geese seen the day previously. They retin-ned with
VOL. II. K
Wi
i
ill
l!ill!
I'
I'-!
|5t^'!
m
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1
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I S ' ,i 1
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ii
130
VOYAdK TO TUV: POI.AH «HA.
AlGUST
tweiity-iiiiio ^^eese and forty-one LrosliiiLfs. At tlie
same time l)r. Moss and Mr. White hrouirlit on board
three liures and four ucese from anotJiei' direction —
a \ery jjfood day's sport ; the neiirhbourliood was
named Hi'enta Jiay in consequence.
'I'owards miihiiulit, as the san liid itself from tlie
slii]) l)ehind tlie northern hills, tlie temperature imme-
diately fell from U° to IMf.
On the lOtli, after three days' work, the floeberj^
a<:roun(l outside of us haviiifjj been sufficiently i educed,
(loated at the to]) of hiirh-water, and the sliij) Avas once
more free. At the same time a water-channel opened
alonuf shore and Ave advanced a distance of live miles
without mucli trouble.
Seals had now become more ])leiitiful ; they ai d
a feAV dovekies seen in the water- pools jxave em])loy-
ment to those Avith time to s])are.
Early on the llth, Avith the last of the flood-tide
the ice ajfain o])eiied sliiihtly and eiial)le(l us to
reach souie larire iloeberirs lyinjj; a.ixround a little to
tlie north of St. Patrick's Ba;, , but by beinir live
minutes too late Ave Avre una.ble to enter the bay
before the ice closed in Avitli the chaiiLre of tide.
01)servin«ij uine hares feeom^jf on shore, Parr and Moss
started in ])ursuit, am! succeeded in shooting- four out
of a family |)arty of seven.
On the I2th, soon after hiuh-water the ice com-
menced settinix oiT shoi'e. Accurdiiiu"lv Ave at once
pushed on to the souihwai'd, the water-channel betAveeu
the pack and the land obliuiiiir uie to enter St. Patrick's
Bay. After several hours' delay in i)assiiiu; Distant
Point, Ave opened Discoveiy I5ay ; lindiiiix it full of
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1870
AKI^IVK AT DISCO VI'KY BAY.
131
ice we were obliiied to secui'e tlie sliip near iiellot
Island until tlie eveniiiu;, wlien witli considerable
tr()nl)le, and after many narrow esca])es of beinjjf
nipped, we at last joined company with the ' Discovery,'
after a, sei)aration of eleven months and-a-half.
As there were no tidings of J^ieutenaiit Beaumont
and his ])arty, pi'eparalions were immediately nuule
for the 'Alert' to cross the channel to Polaris Bay ;
all the invalids with the official ])a|)ers and natural his-
tory collections being sent to the 'Discovery.'
The ice not permittinu: us to start, I visited the
look-out station with Captain yte|)henson, aiul from an
elevation of 1,540 feet, on a clear and calm nK)rnin«r,
obtained a magnificent view, but, to oui" ixreat re;jfret
and increasiiiix anxiety, notliinLr was to be seen of the
travellers. A white object was jjlaiid}' visible at Hall's
liest, but wliether it was Beaumont's tent or the second
boat, Avliich lie would be obli^d to abandon and
leave there, it was im])Ossible to say; with such line
weather it was nu)st ])robable that he would have
started.
We observed a l;ij<xe ]wo\ of water in Polaiis Bay,
and that the ice between Ca])e Beechey and Ca])e
Lupton was i'airly navijiable, but near Discoveiy Bjjy
and elsewhere in Eoljeson Channel it was closely
packed. On the east side of Hall's Jiasin and at the
nortli end of Kennedy Channel, there was a <ireat
(piantity of water near the shore, with larire iloes
driftino- with the tidal current in mid-channel.
The look-out man ]ei)orted that durino- the last
northerly jiale the heavy iloes which streamed down
Bobeson Channel stiiiek ajiainst the projecting jioijit of
x2
1^2
VOVAf;E TO TlIK I'OLAU SEA.
AiorsT
ji *
if
1
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1
1 ,;■ -
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i
rit; .!.
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I
Duly reiiiiisiilu, ]Kickiii<i lieavily ; tlie main ]K)rtioii
beiiiLj then carried into J^ady Franklin J^onnd, and only
u small qnantity drifting into Kennedy Channel.
The south end of the United States Eanjjfe 'svas
clearly visible to the westward. With the ii|)])er ])art
of each valley filled with a jjflacier, the mountains ])re-
seiited a totally different a|)])earance from those at the
iiorth-eastei'n end of the ramre, the difference bein<j
probably due to the southern hills de])i-ivinir the warm
winds of a areat part of their moisture.
On the r2th Mr. E;u'erton returned on board with
])art of *a musk-ox killed by Lieut. Rawson a few
days previously when journeyin<j^ from the 'Alert' at
Cape Beechey to Discovery Bay. Owing to tlie length
of the march liawson and his two com])anions
were as lightly accoutred as ])ossible. Near St.
Patrick's Bay two musk-oxen were sighted, a cow
and a bull calf. Althougli there was no gun with the
party, Rawson decided ujjon attacking the animals with
his knife. The following is his narrative of the en-
counter : —
'Not having any fire-arms with ns, and knowing
how much fresh meat was required, we determined to
try and drive them down towards the ship ; for which
])U]'()ose we made a circuit and got inland of them,
hoping to drive them towards a small ravine. On sight-
ing us they immediately prepared to defend themselves,
standing l)ack to back ; whereu|)on we attacked them
with stones, Lrradually closinir in. At first they took
little heed of our volleys, but as we uoc nearer
and made better throwing they commenced snorting,
187(5
MUSK-OX KN.
\U
bellowiiijjf, uiid toariiig u]) the (ground witli tlieir toi"e-
])a\vs. Oil our endeavouring to get on their Ihuiks tliey
turned their front, pivoting romid on their hind legs
and always keeping biU'k to Ijack witli tlieir lieads
towards two out of the tlu"ee of us.
' As niy hunting-knife and one of the men's al|>en-
stocks were our only Avea|)ons, there a])])eare(l to be
little chanee of my getting near enough to use the
knife so h)ng as they ke])t in this |)osition.
' liy the time we had approached to about live oi'
six yards we discovered that they were extremely sen-
sitive in the nose ; and after a few well-dire(;ted stones
the cow broke through our line and made for the hills.
We then closed on the youiii; bull. Charjjfing me he
also succeeded in esca})ing, and would have trip[)edme
u]) had I not jum])ed out of his way, nuicli to the
amusement of the men.
'We then ai^ain surrounded them on the side of
the hill, Hinging stones all the thne ; when nearly close
enouifh for striking with the knife the cow cluir<jed
and three times forced me to retreat up the hill.
I'^inding that I could get out of the way ])retty easily,
I felt more courageous, and at last, aftei* a well-directed
shot with a stone, I managed to plunge the knife into
her side. She was round at once, but I nijuuiged to
keep above her on the hill-side, and following her up
struck her three more blows.
'Although bleeding ])rofuscly I could not reach
her heart, so at the suira'cstion of one of the men we
lashed the knife on to the alj)enstock. I felt con-
siderabl}' more at ease with the lengthened weapon, and
\u
VOYAOK TO TFIK POIAll SKA.
ArriiTsT
■it
I >'
utter lluve more stjil)s hud the sutisfuctioii of seeiiiir tlie
aiiimul stjitfixoi', full, iiiid then roll down the hill for
ubont u luindi'ed yurds, deud.
' The youiiLT bull, who hud been niuking himself
j'ather uimoyinu" all this time by every now und then
jjfettiiiif behind us, now stood wutchinu' the curcuse.
ThinkiiiLT this wus aii oppoi'tnnity not to be lost, I
suc'ceeded in stubbinir him, but in the confusion he
niunaijft'd to breuk through our line und escape over
the hills at such speed us to render it useless our fol-
lowing.'
On the nu)rnin_<j[ of the 13t]i the ' Alert ' crossed
Discovery Harboui' und reached some ice ui>round
near the bi-eukwuter ut the entrance ; thei'e she was
secured, ready to start for Polaris Buy immediately un
o])portunity occurred. The wuter-])ools on the bre!d<-
wuter, euch frinixed by u briu'ht green bordei* of moss,
which aifoi'ded the skaters exercise on the'iOthof Aui)-ust
lust year, wei'e at this ])eriod being used as a rendez-
vous by the ducks and wading birds flocking together
])rei)ai"atory foi- their migration south. They were very
shy, and althougli much patience was dis])layed by the
sportsmen only three or four were shot. Only fenude
ducks were seen, the male birds having apparently
started soutli by themselves, leaving the care of the
young birds to the female ])a.rents.
At this season the ground was evidently hardening
for the winter. During the sj)i'ing, long before the
tem])eratin'e of the air was above freezing i)oint, the
earth became pulverized to the de|)th of two or three
inches, all the moisture which had rendered it hard
throughout the Avinter having evui)oruted. Durinir tlie
I
187<{
IJKHT. ]5KAU.M()NT ARIUVKS.
135
hitlLT ]);ii'l of iIk' siiimiu'r, tlie moisture Ji|riiin collects
us (lew jiiid the eurtli liiirdeiis coii)])letely.
The to])s of the liills were now covered with
newly fallen snow which remained uinnelted. The
water in the snndl ravines had sto|)i)ed runninir, and
tiie lar<j;e ones conld he easily ci'ossed on ste|)|)iii,L2-
stones without wettinjjf our feet.
AlthoULrh ice did not form on the laruest water-
spaces in the; |)a('k, the floes were already heinjjf
cemented tOi2:ether dui'injj^ calm weather, and all the
water-pools on the surface of the Hoes were covered
with ice ahnost strong" enou^ih to heai' a man's weisiht.
On the 14tli our anxiety concernin»jf Beaumont's
])arty Avas ])ut an end toby our seeiiiL^ his encami)ment
only two miles distant from us on the ice. A relief
])ai'ty was immediately desj);itched to his assistance, and
after a few hours I had the satisfaction of si'ein<; the
members of the Ex|)edition collected together a_L'ain.
This satisfaction was, however, considerably maried
by the thouuht that four of our oriirinal number had
sacrificed their lives in the ])erformance of their duties.
Beaumont txave the followiuir account of his perilous
journey across Hall's Basin, during which, notwith-
standing the indomitable perseverance of the leader
and his com])unions, but for a |)r()vidential south-east
wind setting in, they w^ould have been driven into
Kennedy Channel, and in all human probability have
sacrificed their lives.
''August Sth. Polaris Bay. — A bright beautiful day,
but still blowing.
' Everything is packed ii]) and I'eady, and we are
only waiting for the wind to go down. A thick mist
]36
VOYAfJE TO THE POLAK SKA.
ArotTST
■'f/'
m I
,1 ,!
lyiu^ ill the cliaiinel indicates oj)eii water, but prevents
us seeiii<; what the ice is {l()in<^^
' Noon. Tlie wind is <jjoiiig down, and the clouds
clearing away ofl' Cape Lupton ; a sure sijj^n of fine
weather.
'Went up the hill, as the mist cleared away, to
inspect the ice. A jjjreat chanfj^e has taken place ; the
old ice of the basin has «/one south apparently, and is
replaced by lar<jfe and heavy floes from 'he north ;
they are still travelling at a great rate in consequence
of the wind.
' It is evident that we shall have a, large amount
of boat work. I wish we could take the twenty-foot
ice-boa., but she is too heavy. We must wait until it
is quite calm, as the fifteen-foot ice-boat when loaded
is only three inches out of the water.
' 9 P.M. It is now quite calm as far as we can see.
Closed the house ; secured everything, and started at
10 P.M. in the fifteen-foot ice-boat, with the sledge
towing astern. We are so deej) and the sledge so
heavy, that we are going very slow ; pulled nearly to
Ca])e Lu])ton, and then took the i(;e, shaping course
for St. Patrick's Bay. After two hours' work entered
a large space of water ; it was a time of great anxiety
to me, as we could barely kee]) the water out of
the boat — it was three miles broad. Disembarked
on the opposite side, ])laced the boat on the sledge,
and started across the floe. During the rest of the
march we proceeded in a similar manner ; each time
we embarked or disembarked it was necessary to un-
load the boat, either to launch her or haul her uj).
' Though we seem to have been drifted south, we
have made very good progress, and when we camjied
1870
JUURNKY ACROSS IIALL's RASIN.
i;^"i
at 2.20 r.M. we luid been sixteen hours at work and
had done ten miles. The convalescents are standing
the work well.
' I am sorry to find that the i(.'e we are on is in
motion, driftin^jf soutli.
' S)tk and \^th. — I have been up several times
watching the ice, and now that a little breeze has
s|)rung up we are drifting faster ; so I called tlie men,
and we ])re])ared for a start.
' Started at 9.50 I'.m. We must have been swept
back a long way during our halt to tlie south and east.
Worked hard until lunch to make it u]), amongst high
but small Hoes, surrounded by I'ubble. It would take
nuich too louii, and would be difficult to describe tlie
variety of obstacles and delays which we met with,
and we have made so little way, that I don't lliink we
have even kept our groimd against tlie soutlierly drift.
Now the ice apjiears to be stationary, and we are
stop])ed for lunch.
' Started again in an hour and struck straiglit in
towards Bellot Island, to get out of the infhience of
the drift.
''Camj)ed at 11.30 A.M., having been fourteen hours
at work ; Dr. Co])|)inger is watching the convalescents,
as it won't do to overwork them.
' We are much farther soutli than we were yester-
day, and not «o far across.
' 10^/i, Will, and 12th. — We have been drifted
south several miles during the halt, and matters ai'c
looking serious. We are now abreast of Cape Lieber,
and if this goes on we shall be swept into Kennedy
Channel, and unable to regain the ti\up.
' Coppinger and myself are quite of opinion that an
iji'j >:,
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188
VOYA(JI'; TO TIIK POLAR SEA.
Al'fM'ST
eflort must bo niii(k', for ovoii witli the very liiird work
that we iwv doiiiLT now, we are losintr ijroiiiKl every
lK)iir — even on the march we seem hardly to recover it.
'Started at 11 P.M., with tlie intention of jjfoinjjt in
.sti'{ii;j;l»t foi' Cape IJaird, and reaciiing it befoiv we
.stopped.
' We wori<ed stea(Hly on to hmcli, tlien fi'om hmcli
on to cainpinLf time.
'At that time a breeze s|)ran<j^ U]) from the west
and set the ice in motion, clearino* it away from C
ape
Lieb
er.
' Tlie water was makinuf fast on tiie west side of
Kemiedy Cliaimel ; everywliere tlie ice was on the
move, and we were obliufed to a'o on.
'We had been skmly i^jjoinii south all day, and
now Ca])e Baird was in a hue with Bellot Island, and
we could not see the south shore of Petermium Fiord.
Tl
lere was no time to take anules or
bei
u'lULTs, or even
to kee]) a record of events. The chaiiire from sk'dufini;
to boati
md vlci
fi
nt
ersa, oecame
liurried, that we had not time to unload, but did
everything at full .speed, to the imminent risk of both
sled<jfe and boat.
'At about 10.15p.m. the wind chanired to the
south-east, and beaan to blow the ice back a<fain, and
from that time we made real ])ro«;ress ; eventually
reaching the land by boat between Ga])e Lieber and
Cape Baird at 7 a.m., 12th of August, after having
been under weigh thirty-five hours.
' The men, and es])ecially the convalescents, are
dead beat.
' ISth and lAth. — As there was no danger of beimr
I87(i
.lOUIlNKY ACnOSS HALLS MASIX.
1.".!)
(li-itU'(l, I li't tliiMii slc'c'|) on, wliik' C'<»|)|>iii|ii'r iiiid my-
self wnlkc'd to Ciipe JJiiird to exuiiiiiio tlie ice in J.udy
Frill )I<1 ill's t!ftriiit.
'It was jiC'ttiiiLr very misty, l)iit \vi' Wi'iv in time.
All tlie ice that was out yesterday is hack ajiain close
U) the shore ; it seems (juite fast between J5ellot Island
and ourselves.
Saw two sliips lyiiiir in Discovery Hay
Tl
le
" Alert " l)ein;j; down made me think that they mi_Ldit
be waitiiiLT for us ; so we built a cairn and went back ;
had lunch and started by boat through dense rubble
for a short distance.
'Worked steadily from 7 A.M. until 5 a.m. (Utli),
with two halts for food.
' I was very anxious to get over in one march, but
it coming on thick, and Doctor Co])])inger ]'ei)resentiiig
it as advisable for the sake of the men not to go on,
Ave cam|)ed.
' We could see the "Alert " quite plainly when the
fog lifted.
'We have been at work twenty-two houi-s ; no
boating; all dragging.
'147A. — While Ave Aveie having breakfast, |)repara-
tory to a start, Ave heard a cheer, and running out met
Commander Markhani and his ])arty, Avho had left the
"Alert " to come to our assistance. Thej' brought us a
su])])ly of most tem])ting ])rovisioiis, feai'ing that we
miuht be in Avant.
'Soon afterAvards we started in their company, and
reached the "Alert" Avithout furtlier accident.
' Probable distance travelled from Polaris Bay to
Bellot Island, sixtA^ miles.'
If
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140
VOYAUK TO TIM'; I'OI.AU SKA.
Ardi'HX
CliArTER V.
HICH VIOOKTATIOX— Ili;i,r-()T ISLAND — COAL SKAM — CAPE MUUCHISON —
LEAVi: DISCOVERY HAY — Ol'EN WATEU — KKNXEDY CHANNEL —
STOl'l'ED HY IIIE I'ACK — ' ALEUT ' KO|{<'ED ON SHORE — SEVEliE
STORM— STOri'ED OKI' CAI'E FRAZEU - DOVEKIES — ENTER DOIIMIN
HAY — TEMPERATURE AND SPECIFIC GRAVITY 01' THE SEA— LATE-
NESS OF THE SEASON — FORMATION OF ICEBERGS — SHORT SUPPLY
OF COAL — PASS VU'TORIA HEAD— OPEN WATER — VISIT' CAPE ISA-
llELLA— NEWS FROM ENGLAND — SIR ALLEN YOUNG — NAVIGATION
OF SMITH SliUND.
,i! I
w
:M!
Aftku tlic rotLini of Lii'utenant Beauiuout and liis iikmi
from I'oluris Bay, all t lie shoot iiiu' parties were recalled
to their ve8.sels, and the two ships jnepared for tiieii*
vovaiie southward ; but no movement occuri-inu' in
the ice outside of Discovery ]iay, we were unable to
start for several days.
On the southern slopes of Bellot Island, which
were sheltered from the north winds and received the
full force of the mid-day sun, the veuetation was
remarkably rich. Six s])ecies of saxifra^^^e were com-
mon, and the beautiful Ilespcr/s^ with its lilac blossoms,
attained a height of eiirht or ten inches ; considerable
])atches were also covered with Andromre septen-
trionalis; and a siuLjle s{)ecies of fern grew abundantly
under the shelter of boulder rocks. Many other
plants, which I have not enumerated, were collected
■*
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irm
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'[f^TC^
ARCTIC VKCl'/r.VTroN.
141
i I
oil the same s|)()t, iind it Avoiild thus appeal' thai a
ia\()iiral)le coinhiuatioii ol'soil, sheher fVoni winds, and
full I'Xposure to tla^ sun have more io do with the
It of fl(
(le\('loj)meiit of tloweiMuir ])lants ui tlie i olar ivoious
than parallels of latitude.
Two ermines, a male and iennde, were shot hy
J/ieuteuant Giflai'd on IV'llot Island. We had piv-
viously obtained a s])erimen in a fox's eailh north of
Floebei'jj: Beach, and Beaumont sliot one on tlie shores
of North Greenland. Although a great munber of
hares had been shot by the sportsmen from the '•Dis-
covery,' there still remained a large number; many
of these were secured, and provided a daily meal of
fresh meat for our sick men while we remained in tiie
neigliboiu'hood.
DiU'ing our eni'orced detention in Discovery Bay
the dredge and trawl were several times called Into
requisition.
On the KJtli, the weather still remaining distress-
ingly fme and calm, an excnrsion was imide to tlie
coal-beds near Ca])e Murcliison. This de])()sit of coal,
or. more correctly, liu'nite, is exi)osed in a ravine near
Waterconrse Bay, for a distance of over two lumdred
yards. At its greatest exposure the thickness of the
seam is twenty-five feet, but we had no means of
ascertaining how much deeper it descended below the
level of the stream. vVbove the coal aiv beds of shale
and sandstones. In tliese shales were foimd a con-
siderable number of leaf impressions, similar to those
found ill the Mio<'ene coal-bearing strata of Disco
Island and tlie. Nur.soak Peninsula, as also in S|)its-
bergen, leaving no doubt as t(> the geological |\ii\' ui'
w
I' 1
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a ^'^i
ill!
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142
VOVAOE 'R) THE POLAl} SKA.
Ariii'sT
this Griiiiicll Tiimd liuMiitc. TIic coiil was proiiomict'd
aiU'i' trial by oiif ciiii-iiK'i'rs to he equal to the best
Welsh. The seam wJiere exposed is at an ele\atioii ot"
about two huudi'ed feet above the sea-level, and at a
(hstaiiee of about a mile iVom the short' of Watereoui'se
Bay, in Eobi'sou Channeh Unfortunately veiy little
shellei' is obtainable foi- a hnye vessel amono- the small
floeberjjfs sti'auded in this indentation. The distance
between the coal-seam and Discovery liav is about
four miles, and the track leads over tlu brow of a hill
about 8(){) feet hidi.
A sjioi't distance above tlie quai'ry, in a narrow
|)i rt of the ravine where a larire ([uaiility of snow,
collected in a shaded pai't, remains umnehed durinu"
the summer, the mountain torrent has melted awav a
watercourse for itself tln'ouifh the snow bank. In
winter this ice L'rotto, witli a ti'iflinu- ex])ense of la-
Ix.iir, could be r"adily formed into a couMMiient Ai'ctic
residence.
On th(> ITth we aixain visited the coal seam, ob-
tainiiiLC a considerable collection of fossils. With a
temperature of o';'^ \vo fouiid <:reolon-isiu!L>' very cold
work. The stream in vhe ravine was still runniuLS hut
ice was forming Ji the water.
In my journal I lind the followino- remarks: —
'Now that the temperatui'e at nii>-ht ialls to 28°,
it is didicult to account lor water rumiin"- from
uplands o\er the frozen lowlands unless we su])])ose it
to come from soiue sheltered \alley \\ith a southei'ii
as[)ect.
' A lake i\\v hundred feet above the sea thusfiivour-
ablv situated jj'ives no siij-n of free/inu", but we can
I
'
isrti
COAL SKAM.
143
olttniii IK) w.iU'i' niiywlicrc' on [\\v lowlniids. Tlu' pools
of Wiitc'i- on the suifaci' of the ice are now iVo/cn over
tliick cMiou_L!'li to l)i';ii' onr woiu"lits in most places
DufinL' an cxcni'sion to-day we caiiLi'lit si'scral huttci'-
llics and catt'i'pillais, also some hliiehottlc llics.'
About one hundi'cil yai'ds tVoni the slioi\' of Dis-
covery Bay Dr. Moss i)icke(l up part of a Innnaii femur.
This was the only portion of a human skeleton foiuid
northward of Port Foulke.
While swintfin<jf the ' Alert ' to ascei'tain the erroi*
™
I'lisr iiFirc'K cAiiiN.
of the compasses, her stern took the LH'oimd with the
fallniLf of \\\o tide. She floated apiin without dama_!i-e
as the tide rose.
On the KStli Captain Steplionson deposited an
a(('ount of oui- proceedinu's in a cairn which had heeii
a
I
r iSf
I
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:.U
144
V()Y.\(!K TO TIIK I'OI.Ai; SKA.
Aiffi'sT
coiisii'iiclcd out oi" tlu' t'iii|)1y prr^ciAcd iiu'jit-tiiis,
ivlillcd with LiTiivcl. A post-oliico box wtis pluced in
the ccutri' of the pile.
'Yhv 'Discovery' then ci'ossi'd the l);iy iiiid tmeiiored
iie;ir IV'llot Ishiud. A he;i\ y lh)e (h'ii'tiiiLf ]>iist forced
her oil sliore with {\\v talliiiij" tide; but iiCter a few
hours' (hscoiiifort, caused by the ship lieeHiiii- lil'teeii
dcLirees, the risiiiif tide lloated her uii'aiii, without tlie
ship ha\iii_<i" suHered any dainasi'e.
Fi'oui tlie smuiiiit of liellot Ishiiid I observed tliat
the ice in Jiady Fraiil<hii Sound was coimiieiicinir to
nio\e, and tliat wafer-])ools were I'orniiiiLT ah)ii!_'' tlie
eastern edire of a \ei'y lar^'e Hoe whicli extended half-
way across the mouth of the soc'id. On the south-east
shove a broad water-cliannel extended aloiiu' the ibot
of the chlls of Daly reninsiila, and although it was
nearly calm at IVIlol Island the waves raised in the
water showed that a stroiiii' southeily wind was blow-
iiiji on the opposite coa>t.
As there was apparently a better prospect of our
beiiiii" able to escape by the passaiie on the western
side of the island, the two ships proci>eded to that
entrance, and after an unsuccessful attem])t to push
out into the ice, in wliich the ' Alei't ' damaji'ed her
rudder, were secured amonifst some lR'a\y ])ieces of
ice stranded on a ten-i'athom bank which extends
across the entrance and connects Bellot Ishind under
water with the peninsula to the westward of it.
On till' IDlii the ollicer of the walcli kept his look-
out from the liiuii land of IJcllot island. DuriiHL!- the
ebb-tide ilie ice uave pronii>e of o])enini2', and we
tried to force our way aloiiLi" the ed^^c of the laiye floe,
!^i^'''.r;il
S
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J -t ■- •'
■<!iii
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lH7n
riJOSS LADY I'lJAXKMN SOUND.
145
but mIIlm- nil hour's cxpeudiUire of coal were coiiipt'lled
to aivc U]) tlie at tempt.
Tlie .south-wc'st wind was still hlowiiiL^ stroiiLdy on
the op])osite side of the sound, but for some I'easoii
it did not extend across the ice to our shore. It
Avas, liowever, jii'adually enlar_Lnn<Jf tlie water-s])iU'e
near Daly Peninsula, and ke|)t us .''< the <jui vice. A
channel had formed across the s'Mind from Keppel
Head, but the ice remained close to the shore between
it and the shi])s. At Ca|)e liaird the water remained
o])eu with both tides, which provd that there was not
much ice in the nei_Lrhbourhoo(l.
Durin^f the nijjht the huye iloe already referred to
was driven ajiainst liellot Island ; l)ein_Lr then unable
to move readily with the ebb-tide, the water-])ools on
its western ed<re closed up, while those on its noilh-east
side showed siirns of 0])enin<jf. Accoi'dinu'ly, on the
morniuii of the 20tli, while I went to the top of the
island, Ca])tain Stephenson took the slii])s back into
Discovery Bay. From the summit of the hills 1
observed that there Avas only one narrow nip left
unopened, and that was close to Bellot Island. At
low-water an eddy current opened a channel just wide
enouLdi for us to ])ass throujrh, and with a little
ti'ouble we succeeded in reaching the water on the
st)utliern shore of the sound.
We left Discovery Harbour in a ])erfect calm, but
on nearing the edufe of the pack met with a stronp;
south-westerly wind blowing up Lady Franklin Sound
and Kennedy Chamiel. It is remarkable that for the
three ])revious days this wind had been blowing on the
southern shore without ])enetrating across the bay. In
VOL.II. L
(til ill' i
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14G
VOYAGE TO THF, POI.AR SKA.
Ar(n'sr
(•()iist'(|ueiicc', the ice in nails liasiii was not drivt'ii to
the iioi'thward but roniaiiied closi'ly jKicked. The
water-channel east of Ca|)e Liehei' was six miles in
l)rea(lth, the pack havinij collected on the etistern side
o
riv
eniiec
IvCl
ian)u
■1.
\v
PassiiiL!- Cai'l liitter Bay, it was seen to he filled
ilh ice; but willi that exce])tion we met none on
the Avestern shore until we weiv abreast of Fi'anklin
Island. From thence to the southward it irradually
became thicker and thickei', until at 1 A.^r. of the 21st,
when abreast of Eawlinu\s Bay, and in the same
latitude as the 'Polaris' was, when beset in the ])ack
in 1872, we wei'e also in danuei' of beinu' cut off from
the land. I accordiiiLily turned back, and succeeded
in gainiiiii; the shore shortly befoi'e low-watei\
Cti])e Lawrence, Avliich forms the northern entrance
to the deepest bay on the coast, is by far the most
ma|i"nilicent of the many rennirkable headlands that so
])rol"usely adorn Kennedy Channel. A j/rund castel-
lated cliU'i'ises ])recipitously from the sea to a height
of about 2,000 feet. From its toj) the Ituid slo])es
u|)wards for u distance of three miles and attains an
altitude of at least 3,000 feet.
On reaching the shore I steamed, as I had lately
been in the habit of doing, towards the ' ice-wjill,'
thinking to make the ships fast to it while waiting for
tlie llood-tide to carry away the ice to the southward.
]iut I found that there was not sufficient de])tli of
Avater alongside for the shi[)s. In fact, we had bidden
adieu to the lofty ice-fringe bordering the shore, which
is formed by the pressure
continually casting up new
of the heavy Polar ])ack
pieces of ice until a solid
1*^^
lS7fl
ICE-FOOT.
147
Willi is ))r()(liK'e(l, risiuL' out of AViitcr sufriciciitly (lc'c'|)
to llout the ships in, and staiuliiiif thirty feet hinh ; Jiiui
had I'otuniL'd to the rejiioii where tlie sliore is meivly
bordered hy an 'ice-foot,' the ii|)|)ei' siii'tace of which
is ievel with the to]) of liiLdi-water, ajid the bottom of
its ice-cliir is jit the low-water level.
Ill Kane's Sea, oil' the exposed cai)es whicli receive
fjreat })ressure, the ice becomes ])ile(l up on the 'ice-
foot' until a solid clifT is formed somethinir like that
to the northward, but the water at tlie ed^'e of the clifl"
is never more than about a fathom deep at k)w-ti(le.
With the flood-tide the ice left the northern shore,
but packed against Ca])e Jose|)h Good. As the
weather looked threateninjf, with a veiy rajjidly risinij
barometer, we ran up the bay, ]io])iiiijf to lind shelter
for the shii)s. Entering a land-locked basin, named
liadmore Harbour (after one of Commander Markham's
sledge companions), I found several ])ieces of icebergs
grounded on the shore, and secured the 'Alei't' to
one of them ; the ' Discovery ' going fai'ther in and
making i\ist to some last winter's ice Avhich had not
yet broken up.
At the head of the l. ,y we observed a discharging
glacier, whicli was evidently the ]iarent of the numei'ous
small icebergs studding the harbt)ur. This was to us
a very unusual sight, as we liad not seen any since
leaving Bessel's Bay in August the previous year. The
glacier was named JoUifle, after another of Markham's
men.
It being spring-tides, the current ran with great
strength into the bay, briiighig with it a large
quantity of ice, which gradually filled up the harbour ;
L 2
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148
VOVAdi: TO Till', I'OIAU SEA.
ArfifsT
!!i
V
^h\
hut ill such ji slicllcrcd position I never expected
(lanLfcr to he near.
At the lop of hiLdi-water a passing floe jiuslied tiie
how o{' the ' Alert ' on shore, hut so li;ihtly that, had
it ixiveii us I'ooin, we could luive ivadilv hauled her
oir a_L;'aiii. neloic we had sullicient time to do so the
water had laheii so much tiiat we were haril and last
aLn'ouiuh As the watiT lell the ship heeled over to-
'aleht ' i)N siioui-;.
■! r\
I'iJ
|:Q 'li
wards the sea twenty-two de^^n-ees. The forefoot heing
exposed as far aft as the foremast, I was rather anxious
lest she should hdl over alto<f ether.
As the tide rose we used suitable ])ieces of ice as
rafts to eaiTv out one of tlu bower anchors and chain
cable, hiiulin<^' them astern to the desired jjositions by
a hawser ; the raft was then destroyed by gunpowder,
and the anchor fell to the bottom.
r
H'^r
1870
ivSiviMO si;TTLi:Mi;Nr
111)
At lii;ili-W{i(i'i' tlic slii|) lijivliiL' lu'cii li^ilitciird of nil
tlic stoi'c's readily iiiovahk' \v;is liiiul('(l oil". 'I'lic rise
iiiul lall of tlu' ti(K' was iK'twreii tliirtcLMi and foiii-
tt'C'll I'c'i't.
While limit ing aloiiL' the shores of the bay Feildeii
and Tarr Iniiiid tnices of a large Eskimo settlement,
and from the grass-covered mounds, -which marked the
sites of ancient dwellings, several articles made in hone
and ivory were obtained.
We noticed that the Avater in the hav luid a very
decided gi'een tint, ji colour which we had not met
Avith farther north.
On the morning of the "i'Jnd the uv was observed
to be leaving the coast. Accoi'dingly, we j)roceeded
to the southward, keeping inshore of the ])ack. At
l)..')(l we ])assed Ca])e Jose])h Gotxl (named aftei" Lieu-
tenant Aldrich's sledge ca])taiii), with a strong wind
blowing from the south-west ii]) the main channel, but
the u])])er clouds flying from the westward, with thick
weather and snow falling.
l*assiiig liichardson iky a. very hirge Hoe, a collec-
tion of smaller ones frozen solidly together duriug the
last few days, obliged uie to steam two or three uiiles
offshore, but a water-channel led us in again near
Cape Collinson.
At two o'clock, about the time of high- water, tlieiv
were many eddy-currents, rendering it diflicult to
choose the best leads thi'ougli the ice. On one occa-
sion, wlieu the ' Alert ' was obliged to retreat froui a
channel ('losing imex])ectedly, we ran foul of the ' Dis-
covery,' carrying away one of her boat's da\its, but
by smart and skilful management the boat was saved.
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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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WEBSTER, NY. 14SB0
(7(6) 873-4503
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lll:l
150
VOYAGE TO THE TOLAR SEA.
ArousT
On our iiearin<jf Cape M'Clintock the ice closed in
with the north-goiii<; tide ; and as tlie wind was blow-
in*? stron}?, with very thick wcatlier, I ran for sheher
behind some stranded iceberj^s alx)ut one mile north of
the cape.
With the flood-tide the ice a<zain moved from the
shore, but the thick weather ])revented our ascertaining?
whetlier or no it drifted to the south against the strong
wind.
Passing Scoresby Bay, which was observed to be
about twenty miles deej) and ])erfectly clear of ice,
tlie wind shifted, blowing down the bay, and enabled
us to use the fore and aft sails for the first time since
the 1st Se])tember the ])revious year. 0^"ing to the
large size of the bay a (Considerable sea had risen,
causing motion in tlie shi])s.
On ncaring Cape Norton Shaw the wind again
came from tlie south-west and blew witli such force
that occasionsdly, with the fires of both lK)ilers alight,
we coidd scarcely mjike head-way ; however, I pusheil
on, knowing that with such a wind we should meet
with no ice until arriving off Cape Frazer, the turning
})oint of the coast.
While passing Cape John Barrow the squalls ofT
the land were so severe that a large book of drawings
belonging to one of the officers of the 'Discovery,'
and containing a collection of sketches made durintj
the voyage, which had been inadvertently left on deck,
was carried overboard by the wind.
At 3 A.M. of the 23rd the storm had increased so
much that the ' Alert ' had scarcely steerage way ; I
accordingly anchored in Maury Bay to wait for the
1870
SOUTH-WEST r.ALE.
151
jxale to subside and to save coal. We oould not,
however, liave advanced more than a mile farther
south {?8 tlie ])ack was nipj)ing heavily a«rainst Cajjc
Frazer, while it di'ifted fu->c to the northward before
the wind. During the gale the temperature rose to 42'* ;
the frozen ])ools of water on the surface of the ice were
consequently melted.
We remarked at the time that in (dl jmibability
the gale extended over a large area. On our return
to England we learnt tliat it was on this day that
several vessels of the whaling fleet at Belning's Straits,
1,300 miles to the south-westward of our position,
were so greatly damaged by the ice as to oblige
tlieni to be abandoned, causing a considerable lo.ss of
life.
As tlie strong November gales of the ])revious year
are known to have extended for an equal distance, from
near Cape Desolation in South Greenland to Floeberg
Beach, and as each disturbance in the atmos])here at
the Bay of Mercy in Banks Island in 1853 was felt at
Uensselaer Bay, 800 miles distant to the eastward, I
see no reason to doubt that this gale extended tlirough-
out the whole region between Belning's Sti'aits and
Smith Sounel.
At 8 A.M., the gale having subsided, and the wind,
by coming more ofl'the land, giving ])roniise of the ice
o])ening off Cape Frazer, we weiglied and ])roceeded
south, find secured the ships to a large floe near the
cape, about a mile from the shore, ready to take
advantage of any change in the ice. With the excej)-
tion of the navigable channel, about a mile in breadth,
between t^ e pack and the Grinnell shore north of Cape
'
.'I'll
152
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
ACOCST
Frazer, no water was in siglit in any direction ; tlie ice
was everywhere closely packed.
A tenijjeratiire soundin<( showed the sniface-water
to be 29°-0 ; at a de])th of thirty fathoms it was 29°*2 ;
from thence to tiie bottom it gradually increased
in warmth until at a depth of forty-five and seventy
fathoms it was ;^0°*0. The specific; gravity of the
surface water at a temperature of 60° as determined
by Dr. Moss was 1 02430 ; and that at a depth of
seventy fathoms 1 "02547.
Coincident with the increase of wannth in the
bottom water, and the change in colour due to dia-
tomaceaa, walnis, large seal and little auks were seen
for the first time on our way south. A dredge which
came up much torn shewed that the bottom was
extremely rich in Echinoderms.
In endeavouring to obtain some water from a
depth of a hundi-ed fathoms tlie brass water-bottle
was accidentally sent down with both valves closed. As
the air could not escape, on recovery, the bottle was
foimd to have been com[)Ietely flattened by the pressure
of the water.
A common black bottle carefully stoppered with a
champagne cork withstood the pressure of one hundred-
weight to the square inch at a depth of fifty fathoms.
At a depth of eighty-five fathoms, with a j)ressure of
nearly two hundred pounds to the square inch, the
water oozed through the cork until the bottle was
half-full of water, without apparently affecting the
cork.
During the ebb-tide in the afternoon, although the
AcorsT
tlie ice
'-water
29°-2 ;
creased
«veiity
of tlie
rmined
ipth of
in tlie
o dia-
e seen
whic'li
in Avas
roni a
-bottle
:d. As
e was
'essure
with a
ridred-
thonis.
Lire of
li, the
e was
g the
^h tlie
p
1870
CAPK fhazi:r.
15.'?
ff<
c -
< r
UJ ~
z -
o ;
O i.
U. -
I
UJ
u
ice near the sliore drifted towards the south, tlie
floe to which we were secured moved with the pucic
towards the north, and not wishinjj to Ix; carried past
Maury Bay I cast off and ajj^ain anchored insht)re at
y P.M.
Captain Feilden, Mr. Hart, and I then hmded, and
walked to the raised beach at the extreme of Cape
Frazer. It is situated 250 feet above the ])resent sea-
level, and being the only one in the neighbourhood
renders the Cape conspi(;uous.
After erecting a cairn and depositing a record of
our })roceedings we retiu'iied to the ship with a rich
but extremely heavy burden of limestone fossils.
Cape Frazer being subje(.'t to great jiressure from
the pack in Kane's Sea, the ice-foot is of much the
siu!ie character as the ice-wall in the Polar Sea, but the
depili of water alongside it at low-water is only a few
feet ; the accompanying illustration from an excellent
photograph obtained by Mr. Mitchell when the water
had yet to rise two feet, shows the clifl} natm-e of the
sea -face.
On the 24th we ex])erienced calm weather, with a
temperature ranging between 35° and 39°. The ice
in the offing was much less closely ])acked, although
to the southward of Cape Frazer it renuiined, as be-
fore, tightly pressed against the land.
Expecting that the ebb-tide woidd cany the
inshore ice to the southward, as it did the i)revioiis day,
I started at one p.m. hoping to arrive at the cape before
high-water, ready to take advantage of any change ;
but none occurred, and we were again obliged to
<5!|
I
.ji'l'
: I
154
VOYAfJE TO THE POLAR SEA.
AlIOUBT
secure the sliij)s to a lar^e lloe tluit wjis .slowly driftiuj^
to the iiortliwurd in the water-channel which remained
open on our .side of the cape.
At 9 P.M., low-water, the ice driftinj» quickly to
the northward suddenly opened, and by leavinj^ a
channel close to the shore enabled us to enter Gould
Bay, and to approach within half a mile of Point
Hayes. There a floe about three miles in diameter
remained nipped against the land and })revcnted our
farther advance. The ships were acc(irdin<^ly secured
inside of three icebergs, lying aground close to the
shore, off the mouth of a large ravine.
The ice-foot in the neighbourhood had been melted
away in parta by the summer torrent, leaving exposed
a verj' steep beach, which was evidently the abru])t
termination of the fiat deposit of gravel collected at
the mouth of the river inside of the ice barrier, and
■which with the grtidual rise of the land will idtimately
become a raised beach.
Wishing to see what jirospect we had of reaching
Dobbin Bay, I landed at 8 a.m. of the 25th to walk
round Cape Hayes.
By this time we had become so experienced in
localizing the positions where the Eskimo were likely
to have selected spots for encampments that we seldom
failed to find ancient remains at the points designated
by us beforehand. Observing a very favourable
locality situated on a smooth raised beach, about
thirty feet above the sea-level, formed there when the
course of the river was different from what it is at
present, Captain Feilden accompanied me on shore.
As we expected, the usual rings of stones used for
1876
I'SKIMO ENCAMPMENT.
155
holdiiij^ down the tents and several interesting relics
were met with.
Since the formation of the encampment, part of the
bank had been worn or washed away, and witli it
half the stones of one house had been carried off leaviiii;
the i*emaining segment at the edge of the bank.
Among the debris of limestone rock at the foot of
the hills we obtained numerous fossils, i,ne of them
being a trilobite. A pair of falcons flying around had
evidently nested in the same cliffs where we noticed
them in the previous year.
Although the large Hoe which i)revented our
advancing westward remained immovable close to
the shore, I observed that the ice in the offing was
opening, and that beyond the c^pe there was fairly
navigable water reaching tdmost to Cape Louis
Najjoleon. Accordingly I signalled to the ships to
advance and hurried back to the boat. Starting at G
A.M., during the ebb-tide, the ice was observed to be
drifting to the northward, probably influenced by the
light southerly wind which was blowing at the time.
By passing on the outside of the large floe we
succeeded in reaching a gi'oup of icebergs lying
aground about two miles east of Cape Napoleon — pro-
bably the same that protected us on the lOtli of August
the previous year.
It was now sufficiently dark at midnight to render
it necessary to burn candles on the lower-deck.
In consequence of the rise in temperatiu-e to 35°
during the previous four days all the streams in the
ravines were running again. In the afternoon a fog set
in and prevented our seeing what the ice was doing
15G
VOYACSE TO THE I'OI.AU SKA.
AroirHT
While on .shoro I n()ti('t'<l a dovokie fly down from tlie
to]) of the cHfrs, wliicli rose about 800 feet above the
sea; they evidently nest at that altitude. Ca])tain
Feilden had lonjjr attributed a ])eculiar whizzin*^ .sound,
which we occiisionally heard overhead when ])axsin«r
under the shore cliflTs, to the dovekie.s ilyin^jf down to
the water ; but thou^di they descended with extreme
rapidity, it was difTicult to connect the loud rushinpj
sound of wind with the lli«;ht of such a snudl bird.
After ]){issin«j Maury Bay we noticed dovekies in con-
siderable numbers in the pools of water near the ice-
foot, where they Ibund apparently an ample supj)ly of
food.
On the 26th the weather remained very fo<>'«xy.
TakinjT advantajje of our forced delay a rich haul was
made with the trawl in fifty fathoms, jj^iving us several
fishes, echinoderms, spon<^es, and mollusca.
At 8 P.M. the ice })ermitted us to proceed one
and-a-half miles. Arriving; at the end of the water-
chiumel the two ships were secured to a small iceberjr
with a piece of ice lashed between them to keep them
from foulinjjf each other.
In my Journal I remark : —
' Althoujxh there is no opening; in the ice towards
the south-west, to the eastward, where we have lately
been able to advance onlj' a mile or two at a time,
there is an oi)en channel one or two miles broad. How
far it extends beyond Cape Hayes it is of course impos-
sible for us to determine.
'During this calm weather I can make little or
nothing out of the movements of the ice at certain
times of tide. It appears to follow no fixed laws here.
187«J
PRINOF, IMIMHUAL ISI^AND.
4 V P«
l)Ut if it 1k';.mhs to move at tlie comiiu'iKviiuuit of tlio
tide, it is ])retty ^'ure to eoiitimie to drit't in the ssiiiio
tlirectioii us loii^ us the tide lusts.
' kSiiice letivin;^ Discovery Hay we have not once
<>l)served tlie decided southerly drift which we noticed
last year; had we not known of the undoubted
existence of the current we should not have discovered
it by the ice motion lately.'
The 27tii was calm with fo«f<ry weather and snow
fallin<5, with the tem])erature at 32°. On the same day
the ' Pandora ' at Cajjc Alexander ex])erienced a south-
west «j[ale which did not reach our j)osition.
In the afternoon the ice opened with the flood-
tide and enabled us, after much trouble and by |)assin<;
closer to the ice-foot than was alto^'ether ])rudent, to
enter Dobbin Bay ; but there, after securing? the shij)s
to a floe, we were quickly surrounded by the pac^k.
Durin<; the ni«(ht and the followinj^ day we were
drifted helplessly about the bay with the tidal current.
Early on the morninjr of the 29th, as the ice set out
with the ebb-tide, the ' Discovery ' was carried to
within a hundred yards of Cape Hil<rard, and by
the rotatory motion of the floe left without any ice
between her and the shore ; for a time her ex-
posed condition caused me much anxiety.
During the last of the flood-tide another move-
ment of the ice enabled us to esca])e and to reach a
place of comparative safety alongside a floe hennned
in between Prince Imperial Island and the mainland ;
everyone exceedingly glad to get out of the pack and
away from the nmnerous straggling icebergs.
The water-bottle having been repaired. Dr. Moss
158
VOYAGE TO THE VOLMl SEA.
AUOCST
illlil
obtaiiied some siiinples from (lifToiviit (loi)ths. The
followiii}^ results of his observulioiis denote that with
the increase in tenii)eruture of the water below thirty
fathoms the density also increases to above that of the
I'olar water, which numerous observations made
durin;^ the winter showed to be 1'022 15. Hence we
may I'onclude that the bottom water is derived from the
Athmtic Ocean.
Depth Temperiiture
1^ fathoms 'Mf'2
20 „ 2y°-3
40 „ 29°-8
50 „ 3(fO
115 „ 30°-8
Spocific gravity at ttO° Falir.
.Standard water at ;"J°2 = unity
102178
102402
1 02507
102500
102507
."III!
ii
t- (Hi
m
Shortly after we reached Prince Imperial Island,
a northerly wind cleared away the mist from the hills
and lowered the temperature to 30°.
The recent snow-fall, Avliich measured about five
inches, had changed the whole as])ect of the land and
re-clothed the richly tinted stratified mountains with
their winter's garb, from which they had only been free
for a short seven weeks.
After this date the snow only melted sliglitly in
the low-lying valleys, and the young ice formed con-
tinually on any quiet water.
The sportsmen shot six hares, a dozen ptaniiigan,
and a raven.
The 30th was a beautifully clear day with a tem-
perature of 30°, falling in the evening to 20°. During
the forenoon Commander Markham and I landed on
187(J
Y()UN(s in:.
150
in
m.
n-
Ing
Ion
rriiice ImiHTial Isliuid, tiiid ut'terwsinls on the niuin-
luiul to obsLTVo tlie ice.
Towards the end of the fh)od-iide a laim' water-
|)(K)I fonned near Cape Hawks, and a fairly iiavi«xal)le
passaj^e aj)peare(l to exist ainoii*^st tlie iiiterinechate
ice. Makiiij>' a sij/iial to the ships to get np steam we
hastened on board.
The yonng ice at this tiin< v.'as so thick and tougli
tliat we liad great diflicnlty in breaking a ])assage-way
through it in the dingy ; and after startin<^ in tlie ships
it was found necessary to Ase botli 1 oilers and to put
the engines on full s|)eed before we could force them
through what wouhl otherwise have been considered
fairly open ice.
Whenever we met with a quantity of small ice col-
lected between hirge iloes, so long as the pack was not
closing, we had long ceased to wait for the formation
of a decided water-channel, as with full .-team-power we
could usually force a passage for the .ships.
But now with the yoimg ice forming and the snow
tending to toughen it, we found that when one piece
of old ice was struck, although it was itself forced out
of our way, it failed to propel the pieces behind it.
Consequently, after struggling along for about three
miles at a very large expenditure of coal, I was obliged
to secure the ships to a large floe amongst a quantity
of debris ice which had become cemented together with
the frost.
This was our first experience during the season of
young ice forming thick enough to be troublesome ; the
previous summer it was almost as thick a fortnight
earlier in the season. After this date it was always
IGO
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
SKPTtjiflER
necessary to jjfiiard a</5il.\st the sliips becoiniiif? thus
frozen in and unable to move sliouhl the ice open.
The iloe to which we were se(;ure(l, during' this
and tlie foHowiuij day, was situated in the main
channel between the head of Dol)l)in Bay and Wasli-
injjfton Irvin<r Island, and drifted with the ])ack to
the north or .south according to the tide ; no water-
chamiel ever oj)enin<; near us, althouiih there were a
few disconnected pools in si^lit in the oifing.
On the 1st of September towards the end of the
flood-tide, during cahn weather, we were again able to
advance, and succeeded in reaching some grounded
icebergs near Ca])e Hawk^J — probably the same which
wei-e there the })revious year.
I fully expected that with the ebb-tide the ice
would be carried out of the channel between Wtishing-
ton Irving Island and the main, but it did not move
sufficiently to enable us to proceed ; indeed, we had
great difficidty in communicating with the shore, only
a quarter of a mile distant, by means of a boat, in con-
sequence of the closeness of the ice. Whenever able to
do so we gradually embarked the depot of provisions
left there last year ; but a boat and some biscuit still
renuiin. If visited during the summer these will be
foimd on the northern shore of a small baj a mile and-a-
half distant from Cape Hawks and about a quarter of a
mile from the east point of the bay. During the
Avinter when covered by snow it w^ould be very difficult
for a stranger to find the locality — unless, hideed, the
pole marking it remains up.
The mean height of the tabular iceberg alongside
which the ships w^ere secured was between twenty-four
1870
DIMENSIONS OF AN ICEBKKG.
IGl
and twenty-six feet, lyiii.sr aground in 100 feet water ;
it had probably been raised a foot or two when forced
on slioi-e, and wonhl thereft)re have about one-ninth of
its mass exposed when afloat.
Durinjjf tlie afternoon the temperature rose to 35°,
and misty weather witli hL^it rain set in.
On the 2nd a clumnel opened with tlie el)b-tide and
enabled us to reach to within half a mile of Ca])e Hawks,
but there a newly-formed tioe, of debris ice frozen
to<rether, jwevented our attainin<; the shelter formed
by three iceberL's lyin<jf aLH'ound a mile distant outside
of the cape. Captain Stephenson, in the 'Discovery,'
havin<; steam U]) in both boilers, with much trouble
and by rollin<x the shij), broke his way throuirh for a
distance of about a hundred yards into the ice, and
probably could have cut com])letely through the floe ;
but the ice to the westward giving no promise of
o))ening, iuid a thick snow-storm having set in, Ave
returned to our place of shelter off the dej)ot, having
expended much coal to little ])urpose.
As we now had oidy a few tons of steaming coal
left, and after it was gone would have to use the coal
necessary for warming the shi]) during the coming
winter, its expenditure had become a very serious
matter. I need scarcely add that no ashes were
ever thrown overboard.
Airain early on the morninLr of the 3rd the
movements in the ice induced me to advance, but
again were Ave obliged to retreat.
DurinjT the forenoon I landed on Washinjjfton Irvinir
Tsland, and the Aveather being very clear, obtained a
fine vicAv.
AOL. 11. M
1(32
V(^YACfE TO TIIK POLAR SEA.
September
Hil,
. ^M
m '
On visitinjjr tlie cairn erected tlie previous year our
])a|)ers were found to have been untouched : so I'e-
dutin<jf tlieni, and adcHnir a i'urtlier notice of our
movements, the cyhnders wei'e replaced.
I airain examined the two u.icient liclien-covered
cairns, but couhl find no record of wlio liad l)uih them :
they were ])robab]y erected l)y some enteri)risinuf and
successful naviL'ator wlio, if he ever returned home,
has not jmblished an account of his discoveries.
The snow had collected on the ixround to a depth
of nine inches, but the fall had evidently been local,
for near Prince Im|)erial Ishuid, on the op[)osite shore
of the bay, the lowlands were bare.
Althoujih I could see the horizon near Ca])e Albert,
thirty miles distant, no cleared water was visible
anywhere towai'ds the south : but in the direction of
Cape Hayes the water-chainiel, throuirh which Ave had
advanced with so nuich trouble, had opened and now
presented a clear ])assaLre more than a mile wide and
extendiuLj to within three or four miles of our |)osition.
I remained at the summit of the island watchin<jf
the ice until noon, when with the connnencement of
the ebb-tide, I had the satisfaction of seeiuir the jiack
to the westward of Cape Hawks in motion. The ships
were immediately <rot under weijili. Arriviufj off the
ca])e we found that the newly-formed floe, which had
stojjped us twice before, had become fixed between the
iXrounded iceberirs suid the land, and cut us off from
a navi_Lrable water-channel beyond. After an hour's
ranuninji; at the younir ice with full steam u}) and by
rolling the ships, we succeeded in forcin*^ a passa^re
throujfh it, and in rounding Ca])e Hawks, much to the
1870
PASS CArE IIAAVKS.
163
rejoicing of all ; for
tlio nearer we a])-
])ro ached Hayes
Sound the better
would the shij)s ])e
])laced for exploriiiL'
that unknown n'-Mifh-
l)ourliood, should we
have failed in escap-
inir out of Smith
Sound.
After ])assin<jf the
cape we found the
ice near the land
fairly naviijfable ; it
ol)li<,fed us, however,
to make a very toi"-
tuous course and to
ikHjuently ])ass within
lifty yards of the ice-
foot ; fortunately we
always found deep
Avater, and ^e suc-
ceeded in reachiiiir
<
the east side of All-
nuui Bay before the
ebb-tide was finished.
The ice hi the offniir,
consistiiiix of very
heavy Hoes, always
remained closely
packed.
.M L'
104
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA. Si^PTF.MnKu
The ice in Allniiin J3ay consisted of i)erfectlv smooth
floes, formed (hiriii;^' tlie previous winter, recently
cemented to^'etlier with newly frozen ice from one
to three inches thick, throuirh which we found <:reat
difficulty in forcinir a j)assaire, ha\in^ to contimudly
roll the ship for the purpose. The headmost vessel
havinif once formed ii channel, the other followed
throujjfh the cleanly cut canal with very little expendi-
ture of coal.
As we entered the bay the lem])erature of the
surface AVJiter rose to 32°. This beinu very unusual, a
sam])le of it was tested and found to be almost fi-esli
enough to drink, and this a-ufain accounted for the
unusual thickness of the newly frozen ice.
Dr. Moss on analyzinix the AViiler obtained the fol-
lowing result. That at fiftv-six fathoms was obtained
a few days afterwards in Piincess ^larie Bay : —
Dc-
[itii
Surf
ice .
2 fathoms
3
11
10
?i
20
11
50
«i
TcniptM-aturo
Specifii" ririivity at
60° Falir.
Standard Water at
:i9°-2 = unity
31°-8
1-00217
30°0
1-01743
2'J°-7
1-02388
29°-2
not obtained
2 If- 2
30°-0
1-02500
The fresh watei- at the surface in Allman Bay was
evidently dei'ived from the large John Evan.s Glacier
at its head, named after the President of the Geological
Society.
The glacier, running in a south-east din tion, ends
1 1 iiili: II)
1870
GLACIKKS— ICKHKllGS.
1G5
at a distance of about three miles from tlie sea, its
front l)einif at least live miles acn'oss. It is there
joined by a smaller ^dacier rnnninLl down a parallel
valley.
The meltiiiLr of all the inferior Ldaciers north of
Smith Sound before thev reach the sea is very re-
markable, and' must be due to the vast j)0wer of the
ever ])resent sun during the sunmier bein_Lr in excess of
the small amount of ])reci])itation durinsi the winter.
Were they to reach the sea, meetiuLT there with
water which is never, even durinuf the sununer, suffi-
ciently warm to melt fresh-water ice, they would force
their way onward alonuf the LH'ound imtil their sea-face
or front attained its least elevation, and iceberufs were
broken off bv risinu throuirh excess of buoyancy. This
may account for the extreme lowness of the fiice of
the Petermann Glacier, which attains a mean heijjfht of
only twenty-five feet above the water-level, and also
for the jjfrcat number of crevasses near its front, as
described by Lieutenant Fulford and Dr. Co])|)iniier.^
Dr. Kane, althouirh he estinuite- the height of the
surface of the Humboldt Glacier as ' about three him-
dred feet,' remarks : ' So far from fallinix into tlie sea,
broken Ijy its wei*iht from the ])arent udacier, it (the
iceberL') rises from the sea.' l^ut as the icebergs in
Smith Sound are never more than about 150 feet in
heifiht above water when afloat, this estimate of the
heiurht of the sea-face of the glacier is ])robably that of
its south side uear the shore where Dr. Kane and
others visited it, and not of the sea-face itself at a
distance from the side.
* See Appendix.
r
1:1
•11(1
r
Ij
i
i,
iii
fi.iii
1
106
VOYAfJJO TO Tin«: POLAR SKA.
SkI'IKMHKR
111 more k'm])ei{ite hititiules, south of Ca|)o Sabim',
wliere the; toiiiperjiture of the wutor is liiirhtT and
(hiriiij^f tlic simiiiier is aliove the ineltiii!Lr point of fiesh-
vvater ice, the foot of tlie ^dacier becomes readily
mehed, leuviiijjf an imsu])])orted mass of ice, from
wliich i)ie('es break off, fallin<; down into the sea as
ieeber<is and lloatinj^ at a eonsiderably less altitude
than the toj) of the parent Ldacier. We observed
that such was the case with the <rlaciers on the shores
of EHesmere Land in the nei<2hboui"hood of Ca[)e
Isabella, and with those on the Greenland shores to
tlie north of Ca])e York.
The question whether the icebei is in Melville Bay
and other i)rotected positions to the southward, where
the flow of the warm current is not felt to so great an
extent, fall or rise when they become detached from
the <rlacicrs, will depend on the temperature of the
sea- water in the neijjhbourhood being above or below
32°.
On the 4tli the up])er clouds were coming fast
from the southward with misty weather and a tein-
])erature at 35°.
Deeming it desirable to gain as weatherly a ])osition
as ]iossible, in order to take advantage of any opening
which might occur with the expected westerly wind, we
fDrced our way across AUnian Bay, the ' Discovery '
leading and cuttiiiir a clear channel throujxh the
blackest and thinnest part of the young ice, which was
from one to three inches in thickness. On securing the
ships to a floe about one mile east of Cape D'Urville,
as there a|)peared no sign of any change in the
weather, the steaming Ihx's were put out.
1870
INVALIDS.
167
Tlie following is an extract from my journal of
the 5th : —
' Another wet misty day, with light variable airs ;
upper clouds from the southward, with a tem})erature
of 35°.
'All our invalids are now so far recovered that
they are doing duty on deck, merely being excused
from going aloft or working in the boats ; but as I
must expect a recurrence of the disease to manifest
itself during the coming winter, the quickly-advancing
season makes me rather anxious lest we fail to escape
from the ice.
' Now that we have attained a })osition from whence
Hayes Sound can be explored, and the interesting
question regarding its being a channel leading to a
western sea set at rest, a large number of officers and
men would be glad if our retreat to the south were cut
off, and there are verj^ few who, so long as the two
ships passed the winter near each other, would not
accept the inevital)le with complacency. However, I
cannot think that the winds can be much lonirer de-
layed ; and if they don't bring with them too low ji
temperature we shall free ourselves somehow or other.
' The ice in the bay drifts in and out with the tide,
moving a distance of about a quarter of a mile.
' It is instructive to observe how useless our sails
have been to us, while navigating to the north of
Smith Soimd, both last year and this. On our ])assage
south the square sails have never once been set ; we
have always had to force our way along through
narrow openings in the pack caused by calms or contraiy
whids.'
M
,"■'
s
I mi
;ii
mm
1
1G8
VOYAOl-: TO THE I'OLAU SIOA.
Skptkmbkr
Oil the ni()nrm<^ of tlic Otli tlie wcjitliiT clejircHl up
with Hght uirs from the nortli, wliich, (•oinbined with
the releti.se of the pressure from the southward, imide
a decided dilFerence in tlie ice, und lthvj us every
])rospect of beini; al)le to advaiu-e short 1}'. Duriuj/
the llood-tide I huided witli Markham and Feikleii,
and wali\ed about tlu'ee miles al()n^'s]iore to the west-
ward until we could see Nonnan Lockyor Island, then
about four miles distant from us. Ca|)es Victoria and
Albert, seen for the lirst time shar|)ly delijied Ji|iainst
the clear sky, and only twenty miles distant from us,
created in everyone a feeliui; of being within easy
and certain reach of home, whatever miLrht occur.
All the coast clifls west of Cape Hawks are ma|r-
nificent ram])art-like headlands from 900 to 1,000 feet
high, i)resenting nearly a straight line facing the seji —
the conthmity of the front being broken only by the
large ravines and the glacier-cut bays. They are
composed of a yellowish-j)ink conglomerate of water-
worn pebbles, and are perfectly inaccessible except by
ascending the valleys far inland.
Three or four broods of eider-ducks, still imable to
fly, wereswinnning in a pool near the ice-foot. Owing
to the warmer temperature during the few ])revious days
there was a free run of water in the ravines.
At this season, which may be considered to have
been the end of the summer thaw, it was noticeable
that — while the surface of the ice-foot bordering the
shore was, as before stated, level with the top of high-
water — at its inner edge nearest the land a dee]) and
broad gutterway had, partly by reflected heat from the
hillside and partly by the run of the freshwater off
1870
ICK-FOOT.
KJl)
the land, beconie formed jil<)n<xsliore. When it was
nearly hijjfh-water, this irutterway heconunij filled by
the tide, cut oil' the ice-toot from the land.
The ahsenee of ice j)ile(l iij) above the ice-foot to
the westward of Ca|)e Hayes was very remarkable.
Nowhere did we find it forced np by recent pressnre
hijlherthan three or fonr feet. This was totally diller-
ent from our experience of the precedin;.T season, when,
at all the ])rominent ])oints, we met with ice [)iled nj)
to a hei<;ht of at least twenty feet. Its absence would
eitlier denote a reniarkablv calm season, without any
winds blowinj^' towards the shore, or indicate that the
])ack consisted of heavy Hoes, which would become
stranded before they could reach the ice-foot.
At 2 P.M. of the 0th the ice conunenced setting; out
of Allman Bay with the ebb-tide ; a channel near the
land also o})enin<; at the same time. Steam was ac-
cordinoly raised, and after a little trouble in getting
clear of the young ice, which was now rather alarm-
ingly thick, we reached Cape Prescott ; but there we
were compelled to make fast, wdiile the flood-tide was
running, to some bergs lying aground in twenty-nine
fathoms, a mile and-a-lialf from the shore.
During the night and on the 7th the pack near
Norman Lockyer Maud continued to open during both
the flood and the ebb tides ; but some young ice lying
between the ships and the Island, which would have
obliged us to use much coal in forcing our way through
it, induced me to wait until a decided Avatei'-channel
presented itself. By noon the ice had all cleared
away near the land, and we reached the neighbour-
hood of Walrus Shoal, and from thence discovered
w
m
if?
liiM
170
VOYAdK TO THE I'OI.AK ^liA.
Si;n'i}.MiiKK
iijiviujiihli' water extending lialfway across IVincess
Mario liay.
Tliis ])()>iiti<»ii ivcciwd its name IVoni buiiij; the
most iiortlieni locality where wah'iis wei'e fallen in
with.
As soon as the ships were secnred, Captain Stephen-
son and I, acconij)anie(l by Connnander Mai'kham,
ascended Norman Lockyer Island to ins|)ect the ice.
The weather was remarkably clear, and besides
findinu' navij/able water extendinix tour or live miles
from the island, we hud the cheerin</ prospect of
seein<; a huye ex])anse of water about fifteen miles
distant towards the south-east in about the same
])osition as where we met with the southern ed^^e of the
pack on our way north the ])revious year, and havinji;
every a])pearance of beini; connected with the water
at the entrance of Smith Sound. The prospect was so
favourable that I could not hesitate about advancing.
Nevertheless, at so late a period of the season, when
the youno- ice was steadily increasinix in thickness day
and night, we knew that if deceived in the weather,
or if one false stej) were made, we should be beset in
the drifting pack during the coming winter, without
sufficient coal for warming the ships and none for
steaming ])uri)oses the following year.
After leavinuf a notice of our movements on the
summit of the island, we bjide good-bye to the Grinnell
shores, and with the exception of one nip, about two
hundred yards in length, where two floes had become
cemented together by the frost, and which occupied
the whole of both crews, assisted by the ' Discovery '
ramming, an hour before it was cleared, we advanced
isrti
IMMNCKSS MAIMK I5.\V.
171
to williiii lour miles ol" CajR' Victoriii. Tlu'ri' llui'c
hw^iL' l*()liir llot's, wliicli liiid Ik'coiiu' locked in hy a
cliaiii of ieei)er;is {iLn'ouiid near the cape, stopped lis.
Tlie open water was now in siiflit from the uia.st-liead,
but llie teniperatu •" iiad fallen to "J^^)".
Durini; the nii.iit and the followinLT <Iav tlu' i)ack
di'ifted to the esistwai-d and westward with the tides,
moving' with jxreat reL'ularity.
It was most foi'tunate for us that we had reached
the lar^je Hoes, as with each movement water-pools
formed at tlieir edu'es and i)erniitted us to move the ships
ahead a few yards or more at a time, always on the
watch not to he nip|)ed when passing round a point,
and not to become frozen-in by tlie quickly-
formin<x younjj ice when secured in an indentation in
the lloes. By taking every advanta_ufc» that ollered, we
reached to within a mile of the icebergs locking in
the lieavv floes on the evening of the 8th. The tem-
perature was 20° ; but the frost ratlier assisted us than
otherwise by cementing all the del)ris ice together;
consequently, whenevci* a movement occurred, instead
of the debris disj)ersing itself in the free water-space
with the release of ])ressure, it was held in bondage,
and left us a clear water-channel.
The following is extracted from my journal : —
' When I consider the large quantity of ice we find
in the o])ening between Bache Island and Grinnell
Land, and the slow-ruiming tidal currents, I cannot
think it to be anything but a bay.
' Coi)es Bay is a very deep fiord extending to the
north-west. Six or seven miles farther west is a broad
opening having three bays running north-west, west,
1 ' ;
■-}
- '/'■.
] '"-^
■1 \..i
*• '
wr
li-
fe I
u
'1' 1
if
1
72
vov.VJK TO riiK I'OLAU .si:a.
Skitkaiiikr
niid soiilli-wi'sl ; I)iit il is impossildc to sjiy tluit Ca|K's
iSU'Wils and IJalscr ai'c not islands.'
At '1 A.M. of the !)tli the |)aek coninienced settin<^
out of the l)ay with the el)l)-lide. Observing' that the
point of tile iar;ie lioe to which we were attaeiied
ihl
would siioi
tly 1)
)e earried aurainst tiie i('el)er«rs, an*
1 that
then a eliainiel wouhl he opened lor a short time,
.steam was i-cept ready; and as tlie (h'il't ol'tlie lloe was
eliecked on its eomiuLr iuto eoihsion with the berjjfs, the
outer ice, hoi'ue onward by tiie current, opened for a
moment a clear chamiel, and permitted us to escape
nacK
from the
After this there was only one serious olHacle to
our advance. OwiuL' to tlu' low teniju'rature and calm
weather the newlytVozen ice was never less than two
inches in thickness, and obliufed us to use full steam.
In the thickest places the shi|)s were frequently stopped
alt(\i:etlier, and frequently had to back out throu^di
the channel they had formed and circle round the
obstruction. After jjassing Ca|)e Albert the pieces of
old floes became fewer, and we jjfradually lost si<;lit
of the pack to the eastwai'd, althou<i;li large fields
t)f young iee were met with until Ave ncared Ca[)e
Sabine, but there we bade farewell to the iee for good.
As an instanee of the great ehanges that take
])lace in the pack, and how uncertain its navigation is,
it is noticeable that on the 28th of August Sir Allen
Young found the ice completely blocking up Smith's
Sound, and extending from shore to shore eight miles
south of Ciijie Isabella. Ten days afterwards we
entered a navigable sea extending to latitude 79° 10'.
Thus a breadth of sixty miles of ice had drifted away
i»7n
■\vi:yim!i:('Iit isi.anks.
17:;
we
ill till' inti'iiiu'diiiti'
liiiH'.
C(»i»si(l('riii«j: the
vory siiiiill (|iiimtity
of colli tiuTi' was now
left on hoard citlu'r
ship, it Wiis with a
LTcat rccliiiL' of relief
that 1 fonnd myself
111 blue water once
more ; and I trust
that I was not nn-
thankful to God for
His merciful care of
us and for the jirejit
success that luid at-
tended ns in tlie truly
perilous naviixation
north of ^mith Sound.
At the head of 15u-
chanan Strait, in the
nei'dihourhood of the
Weyin-cclit Islands,
there was a lar^'e
(juantity of ice, but
we passed at too great
a distance from it to
determine whether it
were navigable or not.
Paver Harbour was
])erfectly clear, one
large iceberg excepted.
't!
Mr
I':'
■;.l
m
1.74
VOYAfJE TO THE POLAR SEA.
September
Having left a iiotiro of our proceedijij/s at Norman
Lof'kyer Island, and wishing to take full advanta^ire of
the calm weather, to ensure visit injx the more important
station on Cajje Isabella, I passed Brevoort Island
without stoj)pinL', consequently the provisions left there
have not been touched.
As we passed the LefTerts, Alfred Newton, and
Wyville Thomson Glaciers, all of which discharire ice-
berg's, the broken-off pieces were observed to be lloatinjj
at less than half the height of the glacier cliff ii':'cvc
the water.
At 10 r.M. we arrived at Cape Isabella, and on
Comuiander Markham climbing u]) to the de])ot he
found the package of letters and newspa])ers kft there
by Sir Allen Young a few weeks previously ; we gathered
from them that a oiiplicate ])acket had been carried on
to Cape Sabine.
It was now a consideration whether I should return
to Ca])e Sabine or not ; but, as it was quite certain that
the ' Pandora ' had not ad\anced north t)f Hayes Soimd,
and Avas not herself in want of assistance, I decided to
be content with the letters which we had received,
and to ])usli on for Disco while the weather remained
favourable.
Owinu: to the thick coatiuiif of snow on the trround,
we failed to find the notice Sir Allen Young liad
buried twenty feet nuiLnietic north of our cai'^n, which
would have informed me that he had considerately
landed the principal nuiil at Littleton Island. To this
oversight on our ])art the loss of the ])rincij)al mpil was
due.
Had it not been so late in the season, with so much
1876
RECEIVE NEWS FROM HOME.
t O
and
ire-
young ire foniied, or liad we had eoal to .s]iare, I
would certainly have visited Littleton Island and
Port Foulke.
The officers and men oi' the ' Alert ' and ' Dis-
covery ' can scarcely feel sufficiently irrateful to Sir
Allen Younu" and his coni])anions for their determined
and persevering eflfoi'ts to ojien communication with
them during two seasons. Sacrificing so great a ])art
of the short navigable season of 1875 and paying
two visits to the Gary Islands on our account alone,
when Sir Allen's purpose was to exploi'e in a totally
different direction, was stretching ji friendly action to
the utmost. Such consideration can only be fully
appreciated by pei'sons situated as we were.
It was past ten in the evening when Markham and
Feilden returned from the shore of Ca])e Isabella.
When the boat came alongside, and Ave learnt that
they had foiuul a nuiil, the feelings of all on board
are not to be easily described. A year and more with-
out hearing from home or friends, or the outer
world, is a long gap in our short lives. What changes
may have occurred in that interval ! All of us
seemed to be impressed with this thought, and after
the first exclamations of ])leasure and sui'prise not a
word was spoken until the mail-bags vv-ere sorted and
the lucky ones received their budgets of news ; along
with the mail was a large number of news})apers
which to some extent consoled those who were not the
fortunate recij)ients of letters.
After our long sojourn within the Polar ice it was
a strange transition to feel the ship rise and fall once
more on the ' north water ' of Baffin's Bay, and to look
I*'li,(
';'*
r^ i|
U .
R:
lllllill
17G
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA. September
astern and see Cape Isabella, one of the massive portals
to Smith Sound, fading away in an obscurity of snow
and midnia'ht darkness; whilst an ice-blink stretch-
ing across the northern horizon reminded us forcibly
of the perils, dangers, and anxieties that we had con-
tended against for so many months.
In comparing the voyage of the 'Polaris,' and
that of the ' Alert ' and ' Discovery,' it is evident that
the na\igation of the ice which is to be met with every
year in Kane Sea is entin.^ly dependent on the westerly
winds. Both in 1875 and 187G we met navioable
water off Cape Victoria in latitude 79° 12', with oidy
a narrow ])ack fifteen miles in breadth between it and
Gi'innell I-imd, which a westerly wind of a few hours'
duration woidd certainly have driven to the eastward.
The same wind would have opened a channel along
the shore, and any vessel waiting her o])])ortunity
at Payer Harbour could under those circumstances have
])assed up the channel with as little dilliculty as the
'Polaris' experienced in ]871.
The quantity of one season's ice met with in the
bays on the south-east coast of Grinnell Land in 18V G,
])roves that on the final setting in of the frost, after we
])assed north in 1875, the pack had been driven from
the shore, leaving a navigable channel along the land.
Nevertheless I do not reconnnend future naviirators
who wish to attain a high northern latitude by ^liis
route to wait for such a favourable occurrence.
Certainly no one could have made a passage through
the ice in 1876 before the 10th September by doing
so. At that date the season had adxanced so far that
the attainment of sheltered winter-quarters would have
been extrenu'ly ])roblematical
1870
AVE li:avk smith sound.
177
CHAPTEE VI.
WE LEAVE SMITH SOl'ND — DARK AT MIDNIGHT — GALE 0^ WIND — HARDEN
BAY — ARCTIC HIGHLANDEKS — I'OSSESSIOX BAY —CROSS BAFFIN'S
BAT — TEMPERATURE OF THE SEA — ARRIVE AT HISCO — EGEDESMISDE
— SEVERE GALE — RUDDER HEAD SPRUNG — SIGHT THE ' PANDORA ' —
ARRIVE IN ENGLAND — APPROVAL OF THE LORDS OF THE AD-
MIRALTY— LETTER FROM HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN.
m '■'-
Leaving Ca})e Isal^olhi duriiiix the iiiirbt of the 9th,
we steamed towards tlie Gary Islands, ])assiiiix oc-
casionally throiiufh thin streams of loose ice, with a few
icebergs and ])ieces of iloebergs intermixed, but seldom
meeting with Hoes of any size. Those met with did
not float moi'e than three feet above water, {iiid showed
marks of being much decayed, having long tongue-pieces
extendinir l)elow the surface of the water.
A southerly wind sjn'inging u]), we made sail,
standing to the south-west. As we made westing, the
pieces of ice met with increased in size and quantity,
and ex])ecting to find the ])ack near the coast of
EUesmere Land, I tacked and stood tt) the soutli-east
under steam and fore-and-aft sails.
The weather tiu'uing misty and threatening, with
snow, and the wind preventing our making much
l)i-ogress without the consumption of a large amount of
coal, I decided to make the ships fast to an iceberg ;
accordingly, with one sliij) at either end of a long
VOL. 11. w
I
!'l':^i!i
i,
:'i
FV < Ti
hli! M'i
i:;
.i1
'llii
t
178
VOYACJE TO THE POl.APt SEA.
Sei'tkmbkk
luiwser, its middle was dr()])j)ed round the weatlierside
of a liirufc l)erii: ; tlie slii|)s haii^iiiuuf one on eacli side
balanced each other, and they rode thus very quietly.
While in this position a sounding was obtained in
220 fathoms, the bottom beini; nuid.
On the 11th, whh a tem])orary lull in the wind, we
proceeded under steam, but on clo^^inuf the Greenland
shore about Whale Sound, tlie southerly Avind freshened
and obhired nie to ])ut the shi])s under sail.
The wc^t snow^ fallinuf with ji tem])ei'ature of 34°
was very amioyinu"; as it clunu' to each of the ropes
without actuallv meltinu", they became more than double
tlieir original sizes, and only wanted the tem])erature
to fall below freezinu" point to cause trreat trouble in
worKm
o-tl
le sails
1>
It was now fairly dark at midniixht, but fortunately
we met wi
th fe-\
w iceDergs, exce|
)t wl
len witJnn a dis-
tance of four miles of the land, and no lloe-ice whatever.
On the 12th we experienced a southerly gale, with
very misty weather, and a ra])idly falling barometer.
On standinu' towards the .shore we made the land about
Bardeii Bay, and wJien under .shelter of the hills I
steamed in to obtain an anchorage.
On entering we ])assed the dangerous rock, a-wash
at low-watei", ofl' Cape Powlett. It is a])parently the
summit of a very extensive ])atch of rocky ground ;
which is probably the terminal moraine of the glacier
which in former times existed in the neiirhbourhood.
On the northern side of the bay the level land
bordering the shore a])])eared to l^e well vegetated,
and on Hearing the land we observed an inhabited
Eskimo eiicain])ment with seven natives and about a
lii >'^ *'
]K7r,
f?ari)i;n r?AY.
170
dozen (lojfs. FiiidiiiLjf no aiichoniLre uToiind in less
than tbrty-live futhonis, I ran into a bay on the soiitli
sliore immediately west of the Tyndall Ghicier. The side
moraine near its end formed a steep ridire t)f rnbble
l)etAveen a smooth ])ebbly beach in the bay and tlie
^L'lacier at the sea-level. In the nortli-east face we
observed a large cave, whose sides displayed the
»> ,
..'• ■ %;
.SMOiUll-TDl'l'Kl) (ll.ALIKR IN HAUDKN HAY.
-Avash
ly the
)imd ;
•lacier
)od.
land
tated,
d)ited
)ont a
richest tints of blue darkening to bhicknessastiie <lepth
of the cave receded to an unknown distance.
Tlie extremely rugged and broken up surface and
tace of the Tyndall glacier, which ])rojects far into the
sea, is in remarkable contract to the smooth surface and
clean-cut peri)endicular face of a smaller one near the
mouth of the bay which projects only a short distance
to seaward. We were extremely anxious to land, both
to examine the very interestinjjf irlacier and tocomnumi-
N 2
11 f]'^-T^
.."111
m
•I'l I
mm'*
H
u
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,.:'i
-i',;i!l|
180
^T)YAGE TO THE I'DLAR SEA.
Septemiier
cate witli tlie Arctit; Hijjr]) hinders, but llie <j:alo was
blowing so iiercely and the sea breaking so heavily
against the- shore that it was dangerous to send a boat
away from the ship.
We looked forward to (;oniniunicating with the
Eskimo early the following morning, and a nimiber
of presents were prepared ; but during the night
the wind shifted round suddenly to the northward,
blowing directly into the bay. The low barometer,
thick snow-storm, dark night, and rocky shore com-
pelled me to think more of the ships than the un-
fortunate Eskimo ; so expecting a strong gale from
the north, I steamed out to sea in order to obtain an
offing from the land.
We afterwards gladly learnt that Sir Allen Young
in the ' Pandora ' had visited the same family oidy
a fortnight previously, and given them many valuable
])resents.
Unsettled and misty weather prevented our com-
municating with the Cary Islands ; the temperature
falling to 27° warning me to make our way south as
quickly as possible. The wind again coming from the
southward we crossed Baffin's Bay under sail, arriving
off Possession Bay on the south side of Lancaster
Sound at noon of the IGth. In crossing we met with
few icebergs and no floe-ice whatever. In misty
weather the nimierous icebei'gs which are to be met
Avitli close to the land between Cape York and Whale
Sound, would certainly warn ships of their proximity
to the shore.
Near Cai)e AthoU the temperature of the water
was 29°" 5. This was unusually low, as we had found
KrTKMlIKU
1870
Tl'MPKKATURi: OF Till': SKA.
181
it 31° and 30° farther north. Halt" way across BafHii's
Bay, when abreast of Jt)nes Sound, we met witli a stream
of water fifty miles broad at a temperature of 34°,
which is evidently the extension northwards of tlie
warm Atlantic water.
I fully ex})ectcd to find a stron^ix current rumiiiiu"
to the southward out oi' Lancaster Sound towards
Ponds Bay, but nothin<x of the kind was met with.
I accordingly decided to cross towards the Green-
land shore in order to ensure rounding the north end of
the west-ice wlxicli, with the recent southei'ly gales, I
expected would be driven well to the northward.
Strong southerly winds continuing we were carried
towards Melville Bay, meeting with very few icebergs
and no drift ice. The temperature of the water rose
to 35°, but fell again as we neared the Greenland
shore. At noon of the 19th we were seventy miles
west of the Devil's Thumb. A lidit northerlv wind
then enabled us to make a direct course towards
Uj)ernivik.
On the 20tli and 21st southerlv winds aL^ain obliged
me to put the ships under sail, oiu" small su})ply of coal
rendering it prudent only to steam during a perfect
calm, and then for one ship to tow the other.
On the 22nd we met with the eastern edge of the
western pack, hi latitiule 71°'50X., longitude G0°-18 W.
A temperature sounding obtained in its vicinity showed
that the temjierature decreased gradually down to
2iJ°-0 at a depth of twenty fathoms, it then gradually
increased to 30°"0 at the depth of a hundred fathoms.
As we neared the north entrance to the Waigat
Straits the temperature of the sea increased to 30°,
"f
I ill
I
U'
J'
li
yi. ^
llillilii
JL,
182
VOYAGE TO THE I'Or.AR SEX.
Ski'tkjiuek
and oir the Disco coast to 38°, that at a depth of forty-
five fathoms being 32°'5.
On rounding the south-west eiMi ])oint of Disco on
tlie 25th we found the sea abounding in hfe : nume-
rous fnmei- wliales, porpoises, and seals. Large liocks
of eider ducks and dovekies in their winter phnnage
were feeding in this highly favoured locality.
On entering the well-known anchorage of Lievely
we were warndy welcomed by our kind friends, Mi",
and Mrs. Kriirup Smith and Mr. and Mrs. Fencker,
who informed us that the ' Pandora ' had left for
England only four days previously.
We remained two days at Disco, Mr. Smith kindly
su])plying us with a small quantity of (;oal. The
weather felt to us extraordinarily mild, the tempera-
ture ranging from 40° to 48°. It ap]:)ears that this
harbour is never frozen over before the end of No-
vember, and is often open luitil January. Sliips there-
fore need not fear when running for the port late in the
season, or of making a i)assage to the southward if
they kec]) in the warm stream near the Greenland
shore.
Owing to the shortness and imcertainty of the cold
season the settlement on the Whale Fish Islands has
lately been abandoned. Thi(;k ice certain to remain
stationary affords a safer fishing-groimd for the Eskimo
than a warmer stivtion with thin ice liable to be
broken up.
At Disco the salmon lishinij ends with the freezing
of the shore lakes in October ; l^ut cod can be pro-
cured all the winter. »
Hans Heindrich and Frederick were landed at
1870
VISIT LIKVKLY.
183
Liovely, tlie few reimrmiiij^ (l(<j;.s bciii;^ <;ivL'ii to tliem.
These poor iiiiiiiuils wliicli had i)ert'oniie(l such jjfood
service di[rin<r the traveHin*!; season liad sickened much
since we liad experienced wet unsettled weather, and
from their conlinement on board dui'in^ tlie passage
soutli.
Hans was to remain at Disco until the followiiijjf
spring, when the ice would permit liini to journey
north and join his family at Proven.
Frederick in his excitement at returninj^ home
could scarcely find time to look after his own jj^oods,
but his numerous friends on board took care that he
was not the loser ; with his many riches he has doubt-
less long since ft)und a wife.
On the 29tli we arrived at Egedesminde, a well-
protected anchorjiire at the south of Disco Bay.
The long and intricate passages between the nu-
merous islets and rocks make it necessary for shi]is to
have a pilot when entering and leaving the harboiu'.
Governor Bolbroe kindly sup])lied us with twenty
tons of coal, but owing to a bad season he could only
give us one haunch of venison : this was, however, suffi-
cient for a meal for the former invalids, who by this
time were, to all inte.nts aiul ])urposes, well and strong.
It was noticed that this venison ])Ossessed a nuisky
llavour, especially the meat farthest from the bone.
Our visit to Egedesminde was rather o])]Kirtune,
as there were nmnerous cases of scurvy among the
Eskimo and the few Eiu-opeans. I accordingly landed
a large quantity of lime-juice and all the remaining
])rivate stock of sundries belonging to the officers, not
the least acceptable present being a quantity of music,
Wi
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.■ :lii:!
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184
voyaul: to the polak siiA.
OcntHKR
t'tiii-do-c'()lo<^ne, and mittens, with wliicli Mrs. Tiolhroe,
her chikh'CMi, and j^'overnoss were supphed.
On the 2nd we hade ad' .11 to our kind friends, and
o!i the 4th rccrossed tlie Arctic circle, after expe-
riencing,' fifteen months' inmatural (hvision of light and
darkness.
Encounterin*^ a succession of stron;^' contrary j^ales,
very slow progress was made to the southward.
As the weather became warmer and dam])er many
of the men were attacked by colds and rheumatism,
after jin ahnost total exemption from those ailments in
the extremely cold but dry weather we had exi)erienced
in the far north.
Keeping near the Greenland coast only a few
straggling icebergs were met with ; and floe-ice on
only one occasion, when the wind had driven the shi])s
over towards the west shore.
In Davis Sti'ait the tem])erature of the w^ater
varied considerably, ranging between 33° and 30\
])robably de])ending on our distance from the western
ice. The specific gravity in the cold streams denoted
Polar water.
Vast numbers of little auks were observed mijjfratinj'
to the southward, in small Hocks of about twenty to
fifty in number, and many bottle-nose whales were
seen.
On the 12tli, durincf a very severe gale, in which
the ships were hove-to under a close-reefed main top-
sail and storm staysail, the rudder-head of the ' Alert,'
which had been sprung when the ship was in the ice,
became hopelessly unserviceable, the lower part of the
rudder remaining sound.
1870
miDDKH I)A.MA(il-l).
185
As the rudder peiidiiiits lijid necessarily been re-
moved wlieii the sliij) was {\nioii;jfst the ice, it was with
no httle (hfliciilty tliat tein^jorary ones were improvised ;
but by tiieir means, and willi careful attention to the
trim of tile sails, the ' Alert ' crossed the Atlantic.
On the lOtii we fell in witli the 'Pandora,' the
only vessel met with durinjjj the voya;ie. The three
shi])s kej)t company for two days, l)ut on tii(^ niirht of
the 19th we lost sight of eueh other during u strong
gale.
On the 20th, in the middle of a very heavy stoi'm,
with the sea amass of driving foam, the rudder ])endants
carried away ; fortunately wc were hove-to on the
starboard tack. Before evening we succeeded in se-
curing another pair, and during a lull in the wind bore
up.
Ex])ecting Captains Ste])hcnson and Allen Young
to be ahead, we made as much sail as ])ossible ; but it
appeared afterwai'ds that they also had been obliged
to heave-to owing to the violence of the wind.
Not wishing to ])roceed up the English Channel
under sail with a defective rudder, and the wind having
driven us considerably to the northward, the ' Alert'
entered Valentia Harbour on the 27th of Octol)er;
the ' Discovery ' arriving at Queenstown on the 2yth.
After shifting the rudder, the 'Alert' ])roceed(Ml to
Queenstown, and the two shi])s having agahi joinid
company, entered Portsmouth Harbour on the 2nd of
November ; the ' Pandora ' arriving at Falmouth on
the previous day.
I will not here dwell on the warm and hearty
reception which the officers and men received from all
rjr
ti 'I
Iff
i
It '
I, I
k .a
1 : !,V
18(1
V()YA(iK TO TliK POLAR SKA.
OCIOHKU 1870
cliisscM of tlu'ir (•ouiitryiiicn, ii<)lwitlislim(liii.u' the soine-
wliiit iiatiiriil (lisii|)|)()iiitnic'iit that tlie ^^)^th Pole liiid
not l)L'eii iVii('lio(h ^
Tho T.ords Coiniiii.ssioiiL'i-s of ihc Achiiiriilty were
|>K'ase(l to expivss their warm a|)|)roval of the coiKhict
of all eiiLOiL'ed in tlie K\|K'(litioii, and we wi'iv lioiioiircd
by receiviii^iX tlie following letlei" a(hlivssi'd to the
First Loi'd of the Admiralty by direetioii of Ilcr Moist
GiaciouH Majesty the Queen.
•Rvuiokal: Novt'ml)er 4, 1H70.
'Dear Mr. Hunt, —
'I am coiimiaiided by the Queen to request
that you will communicate to Captain Narcs, and to
tlie officers and men under his command, Iler Majesty's
hearty coniirratula lions on their safe return.
' The Queen highly ai)i)reciates the valuable ser-
vices which have been rendered by them in the late
Arctic Ex])edition, and she fully sym])athises in the
hardships and sullerings tliey have endured, and laments
the loss of life Avhich has occurred.
' The Queen \vould be glad if her thanks could be
duly conveyed !•>) these gallant men for what they
have accomollslied.
' Yours very tndy,
' HeNUY F. PONSOIS'BY.'
187
APPENDIX,
'•I*.-' •
■rl-;.. !*•*•-
No. I.
ETJlNOLOar:
By Henry W. Feildkn, F.G.S., F.R G.S., C.M.Z.S.
The Eskimo tliat inliabit the coasts of North (Jreenhind
hetween Cape York, the uortheni bounthiry of Melville Bay,
and the Humboldt Glacier, are (with the exception perhaps
of the natives of lilllesmere Land) the most northern inhabi-
tants of our {>;lo])e. These sa^aToi dvBpiov were discovered
l)y Captain Sir John Koss during his voyage to Baffin's Bay
in 1818, and received from him the name of 'Arctic High-
landers,' an inappropriate designation for a people of purely
littoral habits. The expedition of 1875-70 communicated
with some of these people at Cape York on the voyage north-
wards ; but in July 1875 the village of Etah, on the north
shore of Foidke Fiord, was found temporarily deserted.
Etah is the most northern settlement of the Eskimo on the
Greenland coast, and the one from whei'e meml)ers of the
tribe travel in their hunting expeditions as far north as the
southern termination of the Humboldt Glacier, a little
beyond lat. 79° N., where traces of ancient settlements were
discovered by Dr. Kane in Dallas Bay. It has been assumed,
somewhat too hastily, that the ' Arctic Highlanders ' are a
race completely isolated from any other human beings. From
' Extended from tlie 'Zoologist,' 1877, pp. 314-31(».
rtj ii
flf
I
i.'
* If
188
AITENDIX.
No. I.
int'orin.ition derived from one of the natives resident at Etah,
the members of tlie ' Pohiris ' Expedition ' — wlio wintered
1872-73, in the vicinity of Port Foulke — ascertained that
many Eskimo live in tlie neighbourhood of Cape Isabella,
and alonjif the coast of Ellesmere Land, their informant
stating that it was culled Umiiuj-iimh Island, from the
number of musk-oxen that are found on it, and that he had
frequently travelled round it himself. Consequently the
northern range of the natives of Ellesmere Land is in all
probability equal to that of the Etah Eskimo. There can
be no doubt that there is casual, if not regular intercourse
between the inhabitants of both sides of Smith Sound ; and
one route, by which the migration of the Eskimo from North
America to Greenland was effected, can be traced. The
narratives of Dr. Kane and Dr. Hayes, and more recently the
official report of the ' Polaris ' Expedition, contain mo^t in-
teresting accounts of the habits and mode of life of the
' Arctic Highlanders ' ; and it is satisfactory to observe from
the latest information that the number of this interesting
community has in no way diminished during the last twenty
years.
In 1875 we found at Cape Sabine, Ellesmere Land, the
remains of several ancient Eskimo encampments, as well as an
old sledge made of walrus bones, with cross-bars of narwhal
horn, completely lichen-covered and of such antiipiity that the
bones were friable, and also fragments of a stone lamp ; but
nearer to the shore were traces of a recent visit, consisting
of a blackened fire-place, made of three stones placed against
a rock, with the hairs of a white bear sticking to the grease-
spots, a harpoon with iron tip, and the excreta of the dogs
that had fed on the bear's hide. Further north, on the shores
of Buchanan Strait, we came upon deserted settlements con-
taining the ruins of many Irjloos ; in one instance the ribs of a
large cetacean had been used as the I'aftersof a hut ; bones of
reindeer, musk-ox, bear, seal, and walrus were strewed around,
' Narr. 'Polaris,' Nortli Polar Exp. (Washington, 1)^7(5), p. 477.
No. I.
ETHNOLOGY
18U
iuid we picked up miiny articles of Iminan workinansliip in
bone, wood, and ivory. In Grinnell Land, still further
north, we found that Norman Lockyer Island, in Franklin
Pierce liay, must at one time have been the home of
numerous Eskimo. On August 11, 1875, I landed and
walked along the northern s1u)re of this island for some two
miles ; it was strewed with the bones of walrus, whilst skulls
of this animal were lying about in hundreds, all broken more
or less by human agency, in every instance the tusks having
been extracted. Skulls of Phoca harbaUi and Phoca hlsplda,
broken at the base in order to extract the brain, were numer-
ous, and I came across large portions of the skeleton of a
cetacean. Patches of green moss marked the sites of ancient
dwellings, and circles of stones those of summer tents, whilst
numerous stone caches, and cooking-places now overgrown with
moss and lichen, but containing calcined bones, bore witness
to the former presence of inhabitants. At Cape Harrison, on
the v/estern side of P^anklin Pierce liay, I o})served two or
three circles of stones placed on a terrace at a height of over
100 feet above present sea-level : this was the greatest eleva-
tion at which I observed remains of habitations on the sliores
of Smith Sound. At various other places in (frinnell Land,
still further north, notal)ly a: Cape Hilgard, Cape Liuiis
Napoleon, Cape Hayes, and Cape Frazer, we came across old
traces of Eskimo. At Kadmore Harbour, in Lit. 80° 25' N.,
we found the ruins of another large settlement, apparently as
long deserted as the one on Norman liOckyer Island. After
removing the green moss and overturning some of the stones
that had once formed the walls of tlie ////oo.s, several interest-
ing ivory relics were discovered. On Hellot Island, at the
e-"<:rance of Discovery Hay, lat. 81° 44' N., were rings of
lichen-covered stones that marked the sites of old encamp-
ments, fragments of bone and chips of drift-wood being
strewn around. In the neighbourhood of Discoveiy liay
Dr. Moss, of H.M.S. ' Alert,' picked up the fragment of a
human femur. A few miles south of Cape lieechey we found
more circles of tent-stones ; and near at hand a small heap
if
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190
APPENDIX.
No. I.
of rock-cry8ti»ls and flakes showed where the artificers in
stone had heen making arrow or harpoon heads. Close to
Cape Reechey, and about six or seven miles from the eiglity-
second parallel of latitude, we came across the most northern
ti'aces of man that have yet been found ; these consisted of
the framework of a large wooden sledge, a stone lamp in
good preservation, and a very perfect snow-scraper made out
of a walrus tusk. Taking into consideration that when^ these
relics were found is the narrowest part of Robeson Channel,
at this point not more than thirteen miles across, and th.it a
few miles to the south, on tlie opposite shore of Hall Land,
the ' Polaris ' Expedition found traces of summer encamp-
ments, I am inclined to believe that this must have been the
spot selected for crossing over the channel ; and owing pro-
Ijaljly to the difficult and dangerous nature of the ice to be
encountered, the heavy sledge and impedimenta were left
behind. On Offley Island, at the entrance of Petermann
P'iord, Mr. ]3ryan ' of the ' Polaris ' found an old Eskimo
settlement, consisting of the remains of several stone huts,
whilst the ground aroimd was strewed with the bleached
bones of animals that had constituted tlie food of the inhabi-
tants. Northwards from Cape l^eecliey no trace of man was
discovered by any of our travelling parties, neither westward
along the shores of Grinnell Land, nor eastward along the
coasts of Greenhmd that border the Polar Sea. I feel satisfied
that the men whose tracks we followed as far as lat. 82° N.,
never passed Cape Union. Even in .hdy and August, animal
life is too scarce along the shores of the Polar JSea to support
a party of wandering Eskimo, whilst the idea of winter resi-
dence is beyond consideration. There is no essential reason
why the Eskimo should have travelled around the northern
shores of the Greenland continent in order to reach its eastern
coast ; the presence of the tribe seen by Habine and Clavering
on that side of Greenland may be accomited for ])y their
having doubled Cape Farewell from the westward. It is well
' Narr. * Poluris,' Nortli Polar E\\)., pp. ;i7 1-372.
No. I.
ETHNOLOGY.
191
known that formerly consirlerahle numhers of Eskimo were
living to the eastward of Cape Farewell, but year by year
stragglers and small parties from these outside savagi's have
re-entered the Danish colonies to the westward of the
Cape, and have become absorbed amongst the civilised
Greenlanders. This slow but steady return to the southward
may account for the German Polar Expedition of 1869-70
not meeting with the Eskimo tribe seen by Sabine on the
east coast. The result of our observations amounts to this,
that along the shores of tSmith Sound, Kennedy Channel,
Hall Basin, and Robeson Channel, to a point three degi-ees
north of the present extreme range of the Etab Eskimo, there
are to be found not only traces of wanderings, but many
proofs of former permanent habitation in places where, under
present climatic conditions, it would be impossible for Eskimo
to exist.
The abandonment by the Eskimo of these settlements in
Grinnell Land and Greenland, as well as in the Parry Islands,
is a subject of considerable interest. It points to a change in
the physical conditions of an extensive area lying within the
Arctic zone.
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192
APPENDIX.
No. II.
No. II.
MAMMALIA.^
By Henry W. Feildex, F.G.S., F.R.G.S., C.M.Z.S.
OAllNIVORA.
1. Canis lupus (Linn.) — This animal was o})serve(l by the
'Polaris' Expedition in Hall Land on April 1, 1872.^ Singu-
larly enough, on the same day, 1876, several wolves made their
appearance in the neighlwiu-hood of the winter-quarters of the
' Alert.' They were evidently following a small herdof musk-
(jxen, whose tracks and traces were observed in the vicinity ;
and that they were able at times to secure these animals was
shown by tlieir dung being composed chiefly of musk-ox
wool and splinters of lx)ne. Several of our sportsmen started in
pursuit of these wolves, but with one exception they did not
allow anyone to approach them within three or four hundred
yards. The following day, April 2, the wolves still continued
in the neighbourhood of the ship, and at intervals their long,
melancholy, but not immusical wail reverberated from the
hills. After this date we saw no more of these animals till
May 25, when a single individual followed the sledge I was
with for several days as we travelled along the coast. It was
a most cunning beast, and eluded all our efforts to get a
shot at it. Subsequently I procured a skull and part of the
skeleton of one of these animals, which was picked up by a
' Extended from tlie ' Zoologist,' 1877, pp. .'}l;i-;321, 3o^-mi.
« Narr. ' rolaiia,' North Polar Exp., p. 338.
III ill &.I .'II
p iiiiiiiiiiioiii
No. II.
MAMMALIA.
103
sailor of the ship. This animal is infested by a species of
Twnia.
2. VcLPiw LAfiorus {Linn.)— The Arctic fox decreases
in numbers as we proceed up Smith Sound. One was shot
on the ice near Victoria Head, Grinnell Land, wliile prowl-
ing around the ship, and more than one specimen was
obtained near the winter-quarters of the ' Discovery.' At
Floeljerg Beach, the winter-([uarters of the 'Alert,' footprints
of the fox were occasionally seen in the snow, but it was not
till July 13, 1876, that 1 obtained a specimen in the flesh.
On that occasion Lieutenant Parr and I were out on a hunting
expedition, our tent being pitched at Dumbell Harboui',
some miles north of P"'loeberg Beach, and from it we made
daily incursions up the valleys leading to the uplands in
hopes of meeting with big game. On the date abo\e men-
tioned we had ascended to an altitude of 800 feet abu\e the
sea, and had emerged on a great plateau which stretched for
several miles towards a range of mountains. All of a sudden
we were startled by the sharp bark of a fox. A year had
elapsed since we had heard such a sound. It seeined very
close to us, and as the fog lifted we saw the animal standing
on a little hill of piled-up rocks that rose like an islet from
the plain. Separating, we approached the fox from opposite
directions. Parr tired at it, when it dropped down and
crawled below some large rocks ; out rushed the female from
its lair, and we secured her. The flora in the neighbourhood
of this den was remarkably rich, the soil having been fertilised
by the presence of the foxes. Several saxifrages, a StcJJarhi, a
Draba, and two or three kinds of grasses were in bloom, ami
the yellow blossom ofthe'Poteiitllla brightened the spot. As
we rested there, many lemmings popped up from their holes,
and undismayed by our presence, cojumenced feeding on the
plants. We noticed that numerous dead lemmings were
scattered around. In every case they had been killed in the
same manner, the sharp canine teeth of the foxes had
penetrated the brain. Presently we came upon two ermines
killed in the same manner. These were joyful prizes, for up
VOL. II. 0
194
APPENDIX,
No. IT.
..k ,si(
to this time we hivl not ohtiiined these animals in nortliern
Grinnell Tiand. Then to om" snrprise we discovered numerons
deposits of dead lemming-s ; in one hidden nook under a rock
we pxilled out a heap of over fifty. We distvu'bt^d nunierous
'caches' of twenty and thirty, and the j»Tound was honey-
coml)ed with holes each of which contained several Ixtdies of
these little animals, a small quantity of earth hein<^ placed over
them. In one hole we found the j>reater part of a hare hidden
away. The wings of young brent geese were also lying about ;
and as these birds were at that date only just hatching, it
showed that they must have been the residts of successful
forays of prior seasons, and that consequently the foxes occupy
the same abodes from year to yt'iw. I had lung wondered
1 ■ the Arctic fox existed duiing the winter. Professor
Newton had already suggested, in his ' Notes on the Zoology
of Spitsbergen,' ' that it laid up a store of provisions, and I
was much pleased by thus l)eing able to prove his theory
correct. Although I subseijuently saw a second pair in the same
neighboiu'hood, yet the Arctic fox maybe considered somewhat
rare in the northern part of (irinnell Land. The specimens
obtained did not ditfer in size from those killed further south.
3. MusTELA ERMINEA (LiiDi.) — The ermine has followed
the lemming in its northern migrations to the shores of the
Polar Basin, and crossing Robeson Channel in pursuit of that
little rodent, it has invaded North Grreenland, where Lieu-
ten.ant Beaumont secured an example diu'ing his sledge jour-
ney in latitude 82° 15' N. On the eastern shore of Grreen-
land, where it was foimd by the Germans,* it doubtless
extends as far south as the range of the lemming. I obtained
specimens in Grinnell Land as far north as 82° 30', and
several examples were shot near Discovery Bay. It is hunted
and killed by the Arctic fox. We noticed the tracks'of this
little animal in tht; snow on the reappearance of sunlight, and
remarked that it is infested by a Teen la.
' ' Proc. Zool. See.; 1804, p. 400.
* ' Zweite Deutscli. Nordpolarf.' II. p. lo'J.
Illliiiiiii..::
So. II.
MAMMALIA.
1!I5
4. Ursujs maritimu.s (Linn.) — Tlicro is little to tempt
the Polar bear to leave the comparatively rich huntiii<>;-ticl(ls
of the north-water of Baffin's Bay for the dreary shores of
Smith Sound and northward. A single example was killed
near Bessels' Bay by Joe the Eskimo' in 1872, and footmarks
were observed by members of om* expedition near Thank (iod
Harbour and in the neighl)ourhood of Cape Hayes. At the
present day I do not imagine the white l)ear ever enters the
Polar Basin through Kobeson Channel. The cranium of a
very large example was foimd l)y Captain Markham on the
northern shores of Grinnell Land in latitude 82° 30' X., some
distance from present high-water level. I think it is not
improbable that this skull may have been washed out of the
post-pliocene deposits which fill up the valleys of that region
to an altitude of several hundred feet, and which contain the
remains of seal, musk-ox, and other animals, with abundance
of drift-wood, and the shells of most of the moUusca now
inhabiting the adjacent sea. If I am right in this surmise,
there is no saying from what distance or from what direction
this cranium may have l)een brought on an ice-raft.
5. Phoca hispida {Schreb.) — The ringed seal was met
with in most of the bays we entered during our passage up
and down Smith Sound. It was the only species seen north
of Cape Union, and which penetrates into the Polar Sea.
Lieutenant Aldrich, during his autumn sledging in 1875,
noticed a single example in a pool of water near Cape Joseph
Henry, and a party which I accompanied in September
1875, secured one in Dumbell Harbour, some miles north of
the winter-quarters of the ' Alert ; ' its stomach contained
remains of crustaceans find annelids. In June of the follow-
ing year I observed three or four of these animals on the ice
of Dumbell Harbour. They had made holes in the bay ice
that had formed in this protected iidet. The Polar pack was
at this time of the year still firmly wedged against the shores
of Grinnell Land, and so tightly packed in Robeson Channel
i
1 XT
Narr. 'Polaiis/ North Polar Exp., p. 349.
o 2
WW
1!JG
APPENDIX.
i\o. II.
%
'$m
tliJit m seal could by any possibility have worked it.: way
into thi.5 inlet from outside. I am therefore quite satisfied
that Phoea hlxpld<t is resident throu^l)out the year in the
localities mentioned. A female killed on August 23, 187G,
weighed sixty-five pounds.
fi. PiiocA nAiiiUTA (Fdh.) — On several occasions while
proceeding up Smith Soimd I observed this large seal. We
did not see it north of Robeson ('hannel. Tndividuals were
procured in Discovery Bay, lat. 81° 44' N.,and also at Thank
God Harboin*, from whence it has been recorded by Dr.
Bessels. I found the skulls of this animal in the ancient
Eskimo settlements of Smith Sound. On August 31, 1876,
Hans, the Greenlander on board the ' Discovery,' shot one of
these seals in Dobbin Bay. I was informed that it weighed
510 pounds. On taking off its skin an Eskimo harpoon was
found buried in the blubber on its back ; the socket of the
dart wu.. made of ivory, the blade being wrought iron. Hans
pronounced it to be a Greenland harpoon-head, and suggested
that the animal had been struck in the Danish settlements.
P. grf£nlamllca is recorded by Dr. Bessels ' from Thank
God Harbour, but I did not observe it in Smith Soimd or
northwards.
7. TiucHECUS R08MARUS {TAiin.) — Kane and Huyes de-
scribe the walrus as very abundant in the vicinity of Port
Foulke, and the Eskimo of Etah must capture a great
number of them, as many skulls and bones of this animal are
strewed about their settlement, which we found deserted in
July 1875. Curiously enough, we did not see one of these
animals in the vicinity of Port Foulke nor in Smith Sound,
until we reached Franklin Pierce BajJI* There, in the vicinity
of Norman Lockyer Island, we saw several walruses, and
killed two or three. Their stomachs contained fiagments of
Mya and Saxicava, and a considerable quantity of a green
oily matter. Near Cape Frazer I saw a single walrus, but as
far as my observation goes, it does not proceed further north
''f M\
I
ill
HI
* ' Bulletin de la Soci(3te de Geographie,' 187o, p. 200.
Il Ilium :.iiil
No. II.
MAMMALIA.
10-
than the meeting of the liaffin's Hay and Polar tides near tlie
al)Ove-mentioned cape.
CETACl'A.
8. r?AL.T:xA MY.SJTICETUS (/.<?/ H.) — A portion of the rib of
a Greeidand whale was found by Lieutenant Egerton on the
northern shores of Grinnell Land, in hit. 82° 33' N. It was
of great antitpiity, bnt I am unprepared to advance any
opinion as to how it got there. I am, however, quite satisfied
on one point, and thtit is, no whale could inhabit at the
present day the frozen sea to the north of Kobeson Channel.
To penetrate thither from the north-water of Baffin's Kay
would be a hazardous task for this great animal, and in
this opinion the experienced whaling quarter-masters who
accompanied our Expedition coincided. We may dismiss
from our minds the idea or hope that nearer to the Pole, and
beyond the limits of pre.sent discovery, there may be haunts
in the Polar Sea suitable for the right whale. I do not look
for the speedy extinction of the Greenland whale ; but it is
probable that in a few years the fishing will no longer prove
profitable to the fine fleet of whalers that now sail from our
northern ports, and I see no hope of Arctic discovery in-
creasing our knowledge of the range of this animal.
9. MoNODON MOKOCERos (Liim.) — During the month of
August, while we were waiting in Payer Harbour, near Cape
Sabine, we noticed several narwhals playing at the edge of
the ice, but we saw no more of them after entering the pack
of Smith Sound. The range of the narwhal in that direction
is no doubt coincident with the summer extension of the
north-water of Baffin's Bay. It is not included by Dr. Bessels
among the animals of Hall Land. An ancient tusk of the
narwhal was picked up by Lieutenant I'arr on the shore of
Grinnell Land, a little above the present sea-level, a few
miles to the north of the winter quarters of the ' Alert.'
198
1
III
:li!!l!!'
AIM'KNDIX.
UNOULATA.
No. II.
10. Rangifkr TAiiAxnus {Li tin.) — The reindeer was not
actually met with by our Expedition to the northward of
Port Foulke, hut its newly-shed horns were found in the
Valley of tiie Twin Ghicier, Buchanan .Strait. I came across
a skeleton recently picked by wolves in the neighbourhood
of Kadmore Harbour, lat. 80° 27' N. At various points
along" the coast of Grinnell Land, furtlier north, we came
upon shed antlers, but these may have been of considerable
antiquity, whilst Lieutenant Giffard found and brought to
the ship a portion of an antler which he picked up in lat.
82° 45' N. The horns of a reindeer were found at Thank
God Harbour, by one of the ' Polaris ' Expedition in June
1872.'
11. Oviuos MoscHATUs(ZiiH7H.) — The fossil remains of
Ovibos foiuid in Siberia, North America, Germany, France
and England have been determined by naturalists as iden-
tical with the species now found living in the northern
regions of the American continent and the northern and
eastern shores of Greenland, whilst most of the larger
mammalia of the ]*leistocene period, with which the musk-ox
was associated, have passed away. Tlie musk-ox, being truly
an Arctic mammal, doubtless travelled northward as the
glacial cold diminished ; but in Europe and Asia it found
its limit of withdrawal bounded by the mainlands of the
Old World. No trace of it lias been discovered in Spits-
bergen or Franz Joseph Land ; and the reasonable con-
clusion is that the great extent of sea which separates
these groups of islands from the continents, formed an in-
superable obstacle to its progress in that direction. Doubt-
less its remains are to be found in the New Siberian Islands,
and there is no valid reason why it should not still inhabit
Kellett Land. So far as we know, however, the musk-ox
living on the Arctic shores of Asia had no inaccessible re-
' Xarr. ' Polaris,' North Polar Exp., p. 378
No. II.
MAMMALIA.
lllO
treats iinalnj,»'(nis to tlio ]*arry Arflii|H'la<;(» of America, and
consstMpK'utly wIh'H brouf>lit into collision with man nmst
liave qnickly disappeared. Towards the close of the last
Glacial period, when the Straits of Hehrinjj; wen; donhtless
as choked with ice as the ])assa{i;e now is between Banks'
liand and INIelville Island, tliere could have been no great
obstacle to ]irevent the })assa<;o of the musk-ox from the Old
World to the New ; but whetlier its course of migration was
from Asia to America, or contrariwise, there can be no (|ues-
tion that on the latter continent it found a congenial liome.
Its remains have been discovered in greater or less quantities
from Escholtz liay on the west to the shores of Lancaster
Sound, whilst the animal still inhabits the liarren-lands of
the American continent. Even in this wilderness, sparsely
inhabited by Eskimo, its southern range is slowly contracting,
wliilst, according to Kichardson, the Mackenzie River is now
its western limit. Melville Island and other lands to the
north of the American continent have proved a safe asylum
to the musk-ox, and there it will continue to propagate its
species, undistiu'bed save by the casual appearance of Arctic
voyagers. From the islands of the Parry group its range
northwards across the eightieth parallel into Ellesmere and
Grinnell Land, as high as the eighty-third parallel to the
shores of the Polar Sea, is extremely natural ; and Robeson
Channel, which has presented no obstacle to the progress of
the lemming and ermine, has also been crossed by the musk-
ox, the 'Polaris' Expedition as well as ourstinding it in Hall
Land. After crossing the .strait betvH\!ii the American
islands and Greenland, the musk-ox appears tj have follow-ed
the coasts both in a northerly and southerly direction, its
range in Greenland to the southward being stopped by the
great glaciers of Melville Ray. At one time it must have
been abundant on the West Greenland coast as far south as
the seventy-eighth parallel, for Dr. Kane foimd numerous
remains in the vicinity of Rensselaer Bay, and Dr. Hayes
found a skull in Chester Valley at the head of P'oulke Fiord.
During the single day we explored in the neighbourhood of
m
(;,,
I iii^i
I
200
APPKXKIX.
No. ir.
that locality two skulls wore found by inomltors of our Kx-
IHKlition. Tlie rh'wtruction of thcst! animals would, 1 think,
rapidly follow on th<' appearance of the E^ at I'ort
Foulke; for I iina<,nn(! few animals arc less fitted to elude
th(! wiles of the hunter. There can be no ([Uestion that the
nnisk-oxen found by the (iernians on the east coast of (xr«'en-
land are descendants of tliose that crossed Holx'son Channel,
roiuidcd th(; north of the (ireenland continent, find extended
their rauj^e southward imtil they met with some physical
obstruction that barred tlieir further proi^ross, as has also
been th.^ case; on the western shore of (ireenland. Dr. Kobert
J^rown, in his ' Essay on the Physical Structure of Greenland,'
])ublis]icd by the (ieojj^rapliit-al .Society for the use of the
recent Arctic Expedition, tlnis refers to this range of the
nuisk-ox, lemminj>' and ermine : 'These illustrr ' 'ons, though
seemingly trivial in themselves, are yet of ''erne zoo-
geographical interest as tending to show thai i. iireenband
land must end not far north of latitude 82° or 83°.' In the
month of August, 1875, we met with abundant traces of the
musk-ox in the valley of the Twin (ihicier, leading inland
from tlie shores of Ibichanan Strait. I noticed where these
animals had been sheltering themselves under the lee of big
boulders, as sheep do on bleak hill-sides, and that the same
spots were frequently occupied was shown b}' the holes tramped
out by the animals, and the large quantities of their long
soft wool which was scattered aroimd. Musk-oxen were
obtained in considerable numbers near to the winter-quarters
of the ' Discovery,' over forty being shot ; but in the extreme
north of Grinnell Land, nearer to the winter-quarters of the
' Alert,' they were much scarcer, only six having been obtained
by the crew of that vessel, whilst at Thank God Harbour,
where the ' Polaris ' p]xpedit ion obtained over a score, only
one was seen and shot. The rangc,^ of the musk-ox in Grinnell
]^and is contined to the coast-line and the valleys debouching
thereon. It is an animal by no meims fitted to travel through
the deep soft snow which blocks up the heads of all these
valleys. On one occasion, in Westward Ho I Valley, in the
w **"
No. II.
MAMMALIA.
201
month of INfay, Tjifulennnt K<i;citnii nnd I cnvnr across fresh
liiU'ka of this iiniiiml in soft snow, thnrngli whicli it had sunk
h<'lly-<l('i')), |)loii^liin^ out a path, and K'avinj; frafjfTncnts of
wool l«^hind in its stru^^lcs. Its proj^rcssion under sucli
cireunistances is similar to that of a snow-plou^di. We
noticed that spots on hill-sides where the snow lay only a few
inches deep ha<l been selected for feedinjj; jifrounds, the snow
having l)een pushed away in furrows banked up at the end,
as if the head and horns of the animal had been used for the
task; a few blades of p^rass and roots of willow showed on
what Ihey had been feedinji^. The dim^ of the musk-ox,
thouyh usually dropped in pellets like sheep or deer, is very
often undistinguishable from that of the j^eniis Boa. No
person, hf)wever, watching tins animal in a state of nature,
coidd fail to see how essentially ovine are its actions. When
alarmed they gatlun* together like a flock of sheep herded ])y
a collie dog, and the way in which they pack closely together
and follow blindly the vacillating leadership of the old ram
is nnqiiestionably sheep-like. When thoroughly frightened
they take to the hills, ascending precipitous slopes, and
scaling rocks with great agility. How the nnisk-ox obtains
food during the long Arctic night is very extraordinary ; but
that it is a resident throughout the year cannot be doubted,
as a month after the reappearance of sunlight, in the end of
March, and at the very coldest season of the year, we found
the fresh traces of these animals in the vicinity of our winter-
quarters. I am quite sure that the number of musk-oxen in
Grinnell Land is extremely limited, whilst the means of
subsistence can only supply the wants of a fixed number ;
consecjuently, after an invasion such as om's, when every
animal obtainable was slaughtered for food, it must take
some years to restock the ground. The cause of the dis-
agreeable odour which frequently taints the flesh of these
animals has received no elucidation from my observations.
It does not appear to be confined to either sex, or to any
particular season of the year ; for a young rmweaned animal
killed at its mother's side, and transferred within an hour
!!••>! 1
n
H
202
APPENDIX.
No. II.
to the stew-pans, was rank and objectionable, whilst the flesh
of some adult animals of both sexes of which I have partaken,
was dark, tender and well-flavoured. Eicliardson states that
the food of the musk-ox is at one season of the year g;rass,
at another lichen. Only leaves and stems of willow, with
grasses, were in the stomachs I exumined. This animal is
infested with two species of worms, a 2\vHia and a Filar ia.
GLIRES.
12. MvonES TOBQUATUS {Pali.) — The ringed lemming
was found in great abundance along the western shores of
Smith Sound, and was traced by our explorers to lat. 83° N.,
and to the extreme western point attained. On the Green-
land short! it was found by members of our Expedition at
Thank God Harbjur, where it had previously been obtained
by T3r. Bessels,' and traces of it were noticed by our sledge
parties who travelled along the northern shores of Greenland.
There can l)e no doul)t that the eastern migration of this
animal has been acrc^ss Kolx^son Channel and aroimd the north
coast of Greenland to .Scoresby Sound on the east coast, from
which locality thi.^ animal was brought by Captain Scoresby
in 1822. Apparently its southern range on the west coast of
Greenland is stopped by the great Humboldt Glacier. This
lemming is a great wanderer ; we found it on the floes of
Kobeson Channel a*^ considerable distances from land, some-
times in a very exhausted state, but generally dead. Its
habit of leaving the shore and wandering over the ice fully
accounts for the skeleton of one of this species being foimd on
a floe in lat. 81° 45' N., sixty miles from Spitsbergen, by Sir
J. C. Ross during Parry's memorable attempt to reach the
North Pole in 1827.'^ We are indebted to Dr. von Midden-
dorfT for an excellent account of the anatomy and extenial
» ' Bulletin de la Soci6t^ de G^ographie,' 1876, p. 296.
» ' Narr. Attempt to reach North Pole ' (Parry), p. 190.
No. II.
MAMMALIA.
20,-
characters of this lemming.' He was able to show that the
extraordinary development of the claws of the fore-feet which
is sometimes observed, is not a specitic character, nor due to
i\\y;e or sex, but he could not determine whether it was
seasonal, as specimens with such claws were known in both
winter and summer coats. The series which I collected in
Grinnell Land enables me to determine this point. The
strap-like development of the claws persists in these latitudes
during the greater part of the year, while the ground is
covered with snow, and is thus retained for some time after
the animal has put on the summer livery. I?ut by the end of
summer, when large areas are bared of snow, the claws are worn
down to an ordinary size and become pointed. This seasonal
development is, in fact, analogous to what we find in some of
the northern TetvaonidcG. The food of this lemming consists
of vegetable substances, especially the buds of Saxifraga
opposltifoUa. It makes nests of grass in the snow, which we
often found during summer as the snow thawed ; in most
cases large accumulations of the dung of these animals were
lying close to the nests. I see no reason to suppose that this
animal hybernates, for on the return of light, with a tem-
perature at minus 50° and a de*^p mantle of snow covering
the land, the lemming was to be seen on the surface of the
snow, close to its burrow, blinking at the first rays of the
sun; and during the depths of winter there could be no
greater difficulty in procuring food than in February. At
that season of the year I found the stomach of the lem-
ming filled with green buds of saxifrage, which had Ixsen
gathered from under the snow. Sometimes I came across
the lemming at some distance from the hole by which it
retreats to its galleries under the snow, and it was interest-
in?- to see the speed wnth which it could disappear,
throwing itself on its head, its fore-paws worked with great
rapidity, rotating outwards, and throwing up a cloud of
snow-dust some six inches high. Later on in the year I
> ' Reise Sibir.,' II. Th. 2, pp. 87-99, pis. IV.-VII.
II
mm
"1 111
i:t
11
m
Silfl
i'i !•:':!
■:' llliill
lllHil!!:!!
204
APPENDIX.
No. II.
have seen a lemming baffle the attempts at capture of a
long-tailed skna by the same tactics. The female brings
forth from three to five at a birth in June and July, making
a comfortable nest of grass for their reception.
1.3. Lkpus glacialis {Leach). — The Polar hare v/as
found, though in scanty numbers, along the shores of Grinnell
Land, and its footprints were seen on the snow-clad ice of the
Polar Sea by Captain ^Nlarkham an(' ^eutenant Parr in lat.
83° 10' N., a distance of about twenty miles north of the
nearest land. In the autumn of 1875 three or four examples
were shot in the neighbourhood of our winter- quarters, lat.
82° 27' N., and as soon as a glimmer of light enabled us to
make out their tracks in the snow we were off in pursuit of
them. On P^ebruary 14, two weeks before the sun reappeared
at midday, the temperature minus 56°, I started one from its
burrow, a hdle about four feet in length, scraped horizontally
into a snowdrift. 1 have no doubt the same buiTow is
regularly occupied, as this one was discoloured by the feet of
the animal, and a quantity of hair was sticking to the sides ;
all around the hare had been scratching up the snow and
feeding on Saxifrafja oppositifolla. p]ven where exposed by
the wind, this hardy plant had delicate green buds showing
on the brown withered surface of the last year's growth. The
hare does not tear up this plant by the roots, but nibbles off
the minute green shoots. On PVbruary 1 9, a hare was shot
by Dr. Moss ; it was a male, and weiglied nine pounds and a
half; and another was obtained on the 20th. On May 18, at
Westward Ho! Valley, I shot two hares, one was a female
and contained eight young ones. By the end of July the
young were nearly as large as their parents, and were pxne
white, save the tips of the ears, which were mouse-grey, with
a small streak of the same colour passing down from the apex
of the head to the snout. The adults hsive the ears tipped
with black. The numl)er of yoimg that we found in gravid
females varied from seven to eight, which is much in excess
of that produced in Great Britain by Lepus variabUisy
from which naturalists have found difficulty in separating'
llbi,
No. II.
MAMMALIA.
205
the Arctic species.' P^abricius* records the fact of this animal
in Grreenland having eight young ones. Near Lincoln Bay,
in lat. 82° 8' N., a hare was shot on August 31, 1875, with a
very dih*torted skull, the nasal bones being twisted to the
right hand, the incisors of the upper jaw being deflected in
the same direction. In the lower jaw only the left incisor
wan developed, and that protruded in a nearly horizontal
direction. This specimen, though in good condition, was
small, and weighed only fi\e pounds and a half; another,
killed the same day, nine pounds. They were both pure white,
with the tips of the ear black. We find, therefore, Lepus
glaclalls inhabiting the most northern land yet visited, and
attaining its normal weight, eight to ten pounds, under
apparently very adverse circumstances. Still I must say it is
sparsely diffused, and we found that after killing a pair or
two out of each valley that afforded any vegetation the race
seemed to be extirpated in that district, and I imagine it will
take several years to restock the area over which we hunted
along the northern shore of Griiniell Land. Examples examined
by me contained many parasitical worms, Flluria, in the large
intestine.
1 On the specific distiuclion of tlie Polar liaie, cf. Petere ; 2te.
Peutscli. Nordpolarf. II. pp. 104 7.
* ' Fauna Grceulandica,' p. 2o.
■?ff ■'
I
[
i i
4
mr ^
' |il|
ml
Mik
ml\ r
11^1 "
hill lull
206
APPENDIX.
No. III.
No. III.
OBNITIWLOGY.^
By Henry W. Feilden, RG.S., F.R.G.S., C.M.Z.S.
The species of birds met with by the Arctic Expedition in
Smith Sound and northward, between the seventy-eighth
and eighty-third degrees of north latitude, are well known
Polar forms, and the chief interest lies in the record of their
great northern extension in the western hemisphere. The
only other part of the globe lying within nearly the same
parallels of latitude with which we are well acquainted is
Spitsbergen ; and though that group of islands has been
frequently visited by naturalists, yet the number of species
of birds, including stragglers, at present known to have
occurred there is imder thirty. Were I to include in this
list species recorded by Dr. Bessels^ from Thank God
Harbour, not met with by me, the list of the avifauna of
Smith Soiuid and Spitsbergen would be about numerically
equal : tluis according, as far as numbers are concerned, with
the opinion published before the Expedition left England by
Professor Newton^ of Cambridge ; and, except amongst those
' Condensed from ' The Ibis,' 1877, pp. 401-412.
* ' Bulletin de la Societe de Geographie,' 1875, pp. 200-297.
Twenty-three species are included by Dr. Bessels in tliis list from ITnll
Land. Of these, three species, Tringa marifima, Xema Subini, and
Stercorarius parasiticus (Baird), were not obtained by me. On the other
hand four species, viz. : Aujialitis kiaticitla, P/ialnropus fulicanus, Tringa
canutus, and a Colymbus, observed by me, are additional to Dr. Bessels'
list, thus raising: the aggregate of the species recorded from Smith Sound
and northward, to twenty-seven. •
» 'Arctic Manual,' p. 114, 1875. ^
No. III.
ORNITHOLOGY.
207
in
-297.
I Tlnil
and
ither
b-iiiifa
Issela'
lound
sanguine persons who may still cling to a belief in the
existence of an ' open Polar Sea,' I think it is impossible to
doubt that, both specifically and numerically, bird-life must
rapidly decrease with every degree of northern latitude after
passing the eighty-second parallel. If, however, there be an
extension of land to the northernmost pare of our globe,
I see no reason why a few species of birds should not re-
sort there to breed; and those most likely to proceed there
are Plectroplumes nivalis. Streps lias interpres, Calidris
arena ria, Triufja caniitus, and Sterna vuicrura. There
would still be suflficient summer, if such a term may be used,
for the period of incubation ; and from what I have seen of
the transporting powers of the wind in drifting seeds over
the frozen expanse of the Polar Sea, I cannot doubt th.at a
scanty flora exists at the Pole itself, if there be any land
there, and that the abundance of insect-life which exists as
liigh as the eighty-third degree will be present at the ninetieth,
sufficient to provide for a few knots, sanderlings, and turn-
stones. The Arctic Sea at the most northern point reached
abounds with Amphipoda, such as Anonyx nugax, which
doubtless extend all through the Polar Pasin ; and these
crustaceans supply the Arctic tern with food in those parts
where the continual presence of ice prevents fish coming to
the surface ; for wherever there is land not cased in peren-
nial ice, there must be tidal ice-crack.s, which allow these
minute animals to work their way up between the floes. The
range of the brent-goose is probably coincident with the
growth of Saxifraga opposltifolia ; and this plant also
supplies subsistence to the knot, the turnstone, and the
sanderling, before the long Arctic day has awakened the insect-
life.
Dr. Horner, of the yacht ' Pandora,' kindly informed me
that in July 1876 he saw an example of Saxieola wuayithd
at Port Foulke, a lar more northern range of this species
than had previously been recorded.
I was much struck witli the extreme shyness of all the
birds we met with in the far north ; and until they had
.1
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208
APPENDIX.
No. III.
[
II
III
ill
t
!' ' ^'i^'!5|
^
:' ii !i|
i
1
in
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Hi
:i
settled down to nesting it was no easy matter to get within
gunshot range.
1. Falco candican.«5. — The Greenland falcon, tliougli seen
on several occasions, was not procured by us in Smith Sound.
Mr. Hart noticed a pair of these birds nesting in the lime-
stone cliffs near Cape Hayes, Grinnell Land (hit. 79° 42' N.),
but was imable to secure a specimen. From this point to
our most northern extreme this falcon was not observed by
any member of the Expedition. On August 24, 1876, near
Cape Frazer (lat. 79° 44' N.), when on our return south-
wards, a bird of this species flew round our vessels. The
following morning, when on shore between Cape Hayes and
Cape Napoleon, I saw a magnificent example of F. candicans
seated on a rock ; it permitted me to get within seventy
or eighty yards, but I failed in procuring it.
2. Nyctka scandiaca. — The snowy owl is a common
spring and summer migrant to the northern part of Grinnell
Land. On October 2, 1875, I observed an individual of this
species seated on a hummock in the vicinity of our winter-
quarters (lat. 82° 27' N.). On March 29, 1876, an example
was seen by Lieutenant Parr some three miles north of the
ship. On May 15, whilst travelling up a valley (lat. 82° 40' N.)
in Grrinnell Land, our party disturbed a snowy owl from the
ground. Subsequently this species was not unfrequently
observed ; a pair seemed commonly to breed in each large
valley running down to the sea-shore. On June 24 we found
a snowy owl's nest containing seven eggs (lat. 82° 33' N.);
the nest was a mere hollow scooped out of the earth, and
situated on the summit of an eminence which rose from the
centre of the valley. Several other nests were found in the
vicinity of our winter-quarters, at one time there were six or
seven fine young birds caged on board. In the vicinity of
Discovery Bay (lat. 81° 44' N.) this owl bred abundantly.
During the month of August, while proceeding southwards,
it was no uncommon circumstance to see one or more of
these birds occupying a conspicuous post on the bold head-
lands we were passing under. By the end of the month all
No. in.
()l!MTIR)L(MiV
200
had (li^apiH'ared. Tlio fnoil of tlie snowy owl in (niinu'll
Land appears to consist entirely of, the leniniin;^- (Mi/oilcs
funiudtus). Ifundreds of their cast pellets, which I picked
n|) and examined, consisted of the bones and fur of tliese
little animals ; and the stomachs of all I opened contained
the same.
3. PLKcruoniANK.s nivalis. — Alter passing the seventy-
eif>hth degree of north latitude the snow-hunt iu(^ is not met
with in the same nund)ers as in the neij^hbourhood of the
Danish settlements of West (Jreenland, but it is dispersed
•generally alon<^' the shores of Smith Sound and the I'olar
Masin. On August 28, 1875, at Shift-Kudder Bay (lat.
81° a2' N.), 1 observed a flock of about eighty, and another,
in which I counted over twenty Inrds, Hying south. On
September 14, Lieutenant Parr met with a solitary individual
in lat. 82° 35' N. ; and the last one I observed that season
flew past the ship on Septend)er 24.
Next spring I flrst heard this bird when travelling on
:May 13, 187(), in lat. 82° 35' N. ; the following day I
observed on(; ; and atler that day they were freijuently met
with. On ^lay 27, Lieutenant Parr, on his journey from
the north over the ice, saw a snow-bunting near tt) the
eighty-third degree. I found a nest of this species on June
24 (lat. 82° 33 \.), containing four eggs, within twenty feet
of the nest of a snowy owl; it was neatly constructed of
grasses, and lined with the owl's feathers. On another
occasion I found a nest lined with the soft wool of the
musk-ox.
4. Couvus coUAX. — A pair of ravens were observed by
Dr. Coppinger to be nesting in the elite's of ('ape Lupton
during the month of July. While this officer was detained
at Polaris Bay by trie sickness of some of the sledge-cri'ws,
he noticed these birds visit his eamp daily in search of ofU'al.
The raven was not observed by any of our Expedition along
the shores of the Polar Basin ; so that I consider Cape Lupton
(lat. 81° 44' X.) the northernmost settlement of this species.
August 29, I87(i, at Dobbin Bay (lat. 79° 3(5' N.), a female,
VOL. II. V
210
APPENDIX.
No. III.
^ ,1
illMNl
one of a pair, was shot by Dr. Moss, wlio enticed it within
range by laying down a dead hare and concealing himself
near at hand. Soiitli of Dobbin Bay I observed this species
at several points in Smitli Sound — namely, at Cape Hayes,
Norman Lockyer Island, and Cape Sabine.
5. Lagoi'us uurE8TKis. — Tlie rock-ptarmigan was obtained
by our sledging parties as far north as 82° 40', two or three
couples having been killed by me in the end of May on
Feilden Peninsula. Lieutenant Aldrich found traces of
ptarmigan on Cape Columbia (lat. 83° 6' N.), the most
northern land yet visited by man. On September 29, 1875,
Captain Markham, in lat. 82° 40' N., observed four of these
birds : and the earliest date on wliich thev were noticed in
the spring of 1876 was on March 11.
6. Strbpsilas iiSTERPiiES. — The turnstone is tolerably
abiradant in Smith Sound and the region north of it visited
by the Expedition. It was observed as late as September 5,
1875, in lat. 82° 30' N., and was first noticed on June 5,
1876, in the neighboiu-hood of the winter-quarters of H.M.S.
' Alert.' By August 1 2 the young broods were able to fly.
7. ^GiALiTis HIATICULA. — Only a single example of the
ringed-plover was observed in Smith Sound. It was ob-
tained August 4, 1875, on the beach bordering the valley
of the Twin-Glacier, in Buchanan Strait (lat. 78° 48' N.)
My attention was drawn to the bird by its note ; and I then
observed it threading its way among the stones and stranded
blocks of ice near the water's edge. It was probably nesting
in the neighbourhood, as it proved on examination to be a
female, with the feathers worn off the imderparts from
incubation.
8. Caliduis auenaria (Plate I.) — I first observed the
sanderling in Grinnell Land on June 5, 1876, flying in com-
pany with knots and ttu-nstones ; at this date it was feeding,
like the other waders, on the buds of Sdxifmrjd oppositifolia.
This bird was by no means abundant along the coasts of
Grinnell Land ; but I observed several pairs in the aggre-
gate, and found a nest of this species containing two eggs, in
i:-f^^.
.1 Fleming del .
flanhart litli.
1^
a..i/
EGGS OF CALTDRIS AREEAPJA,
li, . '^'R
I;
(
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IV '^
No. 111.
ORMTIIOLOOY.
211
lut. 82'' 3.r N., on .Tune 24, ISTO. Tins nest, t'nun wliicli I
killod ihv. male liird, was placed on a <;rav<'l rid<;f at an
altitude of several liundrcd feet above the sea ; and the ej;j;s
were deposited in a slij^lit depression in tlie centre of a
recumbent plant of willow, the linin<^ of tlie nest consist injjf
of a few withered leaves and some of tlu; last year's catkins.
August 8, 1876, alonj»' the shores of ]^)beson Channel, I saw
several parties of youn^ ones, three to four in ntuidier, fol-
lowing their parents, and led by the old birds, searching
most diligently for insects. At this date they were in a very
interesting stage of plumage, being just able to Hy, but
retaining some of tlie down on their featliers.
9. PiFALAiiorrs FUi.icAiiirs. — I obtained an example of
the grey phalarope, a female, near tlie 'Alert's' winter-
quarters (hit. 82° 27' N.) on June 30, 1876 ; and during the
month of July I observed a pair on a small fresh-water pond
in lat. 82° 30' N. ; they were apparently breeding. The
female of this species is larger and brighter-coloured than
the male bird. Several other examples were observed in the
neighbourhood of our winter-quarters l)y various members of
the Expedition.
10. TiaxGA CANUTUS. — I was not so fortunate as to ol)tain
the eggs of the knot during our stay in tlie Polar regions,
though it breeds in some numbers along the shores of Smith
Sound and the north coast of Grinnell Land. It appears to
be common throughout the Parry Islands during summer,
as Sabine found it (in 1820) nesting in great numbers on
Melville Island. I find it enumerated, in a list of birds
preserved in the archives of the Adiiiiralty, as procured
by Dr. Anderson, of H.M.S. ' Enterprise,' at Cambridge Hay
(lat. 69° 10' N.) in July 1853. On July 28, 1875, Dr.
Coppinger came across a party of six knots several miles
inland from Port Foiilke : these birds were feeding near a^
rill, and were very wild ; but he managed to secure a single
specimen, a male in full breeding-plumage. August 25,
1875, I observed several of these birds near the water-edge
'f^^T
*WA
iM
P 2
212
APPKNDIX.
No. III.
i^iiii
iti Disc'Kvrry May (hit. sr44' N.) Tlit; rills iind iiiiirslicH
Wfic by tliis fiiiK^ tVo/cii, imd tlic birds were tt'cdiii^- iiloii<if
tlic slioic on tli(! sin ill crii^tiiccans so coniiiKMi in tlu; Arctic
Sen; in pursnit of tlicir food tlicy ran brcast-hijj^h into tho
water. By tliis date llicy liad lost their hri'edin<;-|»hiina;;t'.
On June '), 187(5, w'x'H camped iicar Knot irarl)our, (Irinucll
L:ind (hit. 82^ '^'^' X.), we noticed the first arrival <.f these
l)irds: a Hock of fourteen or more were circlinjj;' over a hill-
side, alii^htin^' on hare patchcy, and feedinjj^ ea;;orly on the
Imds of tiaxlfrittja (tjipoHltlfolin. Snhseiinently we met with
this bird in coiisiderabhi numbers; but they wero always very
wild and most ditticult of apju'oach. The cry of the knot is
wild, and somethinjL'' like that of the curlew. Immediately
after arrival in June they be^an to mate, and at times I
noticed two or more males foUowinj^ a sin<>le female ; at this
seast)n they soar in the air, like the common snipe, and when
descendinj^ from a hei«>;ht })eat their win^s behind the iiack
with a rapid motion, which produces a loud wliirrinj^ noise.
During" the; montli of July my companions and f often
endeavoured ti; discover tiie nest of this bird ; but none of us
were successfid. However, en July 30, I87(i, the day beiore
\V(! broke out of our winter-(]uarters, where we had been
frozen-in eleven months, three of our seamen, walkinj;' by the
border of a small lake, not far from the ship, came upon an
old bird accompanied by three nestlin<>s, wliicii they brouj>ht
to me. The old 1)ird proved to be a male ; its stonuich and
those of the youn<>' ones were tilled with insects. The
followinjj;' description of the newly-hatched bird taKen
down at the time:— Iris, black; ti| ■ niandibh'.-, dark
brown ; bill, dark olive ; toes, blac a's of feet, • 'eenish
yellow ; back of lej^s, the same ; u rpart of throai, satin-
white ; back, beautifully mottled torloise- liell. Dr. Cop-
pinger informed me that this bird was ni)t uncommon at
Thank God Harbour during July. In the first week of
August 1 saw family parties of knots at Shift-Kudder iJay
(lat. 81° 52' N.) ; they were then in the grey autumn plu-
mage. The knot bred in the vicinity of Discovery Bay ; but
ii! !L
I IT.
No. III.
OHMIIlol.OdV
LM,
no <'^''j,'s wciT found tlieir, iiltliuii^h flic ytmn;; were olituiiMHl
ill all stages of itliima^c.
11. Stkhna ma itriiA. — Tlif Arctic tern is not uncnminon
in Smith Sound, and wo found it brccdinfj^at sovonil localities
we visited on our way north. On Aii^^ust 11, 1H7.>, on
Norniiin iiockyer Island, I noticed several pairs, and picked
up a blcaclied ej;<i^, pro})ahly an addled one of a former season.
Auffust 21, we found eif>]it or ten |)airs breeding- on a small
islet otf the north end of Hellot Island (lat. H\° 44' N.); tin-
land at this date was covered with snow, and on the islet it
lay aliout three inches deep. In one nest I found a newly-
hatched tern: it seemed quite well and lively in its snow
cradle. The parent birds had evidently thrown the snow out
of the nest as it fell; for it was surroimded by a border of
snow raarkyd by the feet of the old birds, and raised at least
two inclies above the j(eneral level. The terns on this islet
were rather shy, none coming within ranji^e until I touched
the vouny: one. There seemed to be al)undance of tish in
tlie pools ])etween the tloes, as the old birds were tiying
with them in their mandibles; the stomach of the female
whicli I killed was empty, but that of the nestlinf? contained
remains of tish. On June IH, 1H7(), three Arctic terns
appeared in the neif^hbourhood of the winter-ipiarters of I Ik;
'Alert.' By the end of June ])airs of these birds were scat-
tered at intervals along' tlie coast ; and a nest, scraped in the
gravel and containing two eggs, was founil June 27 about
three miles north of our winter-cpiarters. During the tirst
week in August we found a pair of young ])irds nearly ready
to fly in lat. Hl° 50' N.
12. Pagoimiu.a KuruNKA. — Tlie ivory gull was not un-
frc(|uently observed in Smith Sound, but not beyond lat.
82° 20' X. I found a pair nesting "n a lofty and inacct^s-
sible cliff near Cape Hayes on August l(i, lH7o. On Sep-
tember 1 a single examph' Hew around the 'Alert' when she
lay moored to the ice in J^incoln Jiay (lat. H2° (V N.) On
August 2, 1876, I observed one of this species near Cape
Union ; on August 12 they were common in Discovery
m'-'ii
t' I-..
"Hi
J"!
214
APPKNDIX.
No. III.
Bay, and fj\)m tliere southward to the north-water of
Baffin's liay.
13. Hi.ssA TiiiDACTYLA. — I saw a few examples of the
kittiwake ttyinji^ over the open water in the vicinity of
Port Fon'Ike, July 28, 1875; but we did not observe it to
the northward after enterinuf the ice of Smith Sound;
and in 187(5 no s])eciraen was seen a-; the Expedition
returned south imtil the north-water t)f Baffin's Bay was
readied.
14. Larus glaucds. — We did not find the glaucous gull
breeding north of Cape Sabine; but stray individuals were
observed as far north as lat. 82° h4\ September 1, 1875,
was the latest date in the autumn on which I noticed this
species ; and it reappeared in the vicinity of our winter-
(piarters (lat. 82° 27' N.) in the middle of June.
15. Stkucohauids rAUAsiiicus. — I^utfon's skua wais the
only one of the genus met with in Smith ^ ound. It arrived
in the neighbourhood of our winter-quarte s during the first
week of June, and in consideral)le numbers. After that date
it v/as to be seen diu'ing every hour of the day quartering
the fells in search of lemmings. It lays its two eggs in a
small hollow in the ground, and defends its nest with tlie
utmost bravery. On several occasions I have struck the old
birds with my gun-barrel wliile warding off their attacks as I
plundered their nest. . This species can generally be distin-
guished from its near ally, IS. crepiddtus, at every age, by
the mottled coloiu' of the tarsus and webs of the feet, which
in S. cr('.pi(((duf^ are usually black.
1(). T>iJO( KbLARiA GLACiALis. — The fiilmar is common in
the nortli-water of Jiaffin's Bay; ;md individuals followed
our ships until we entered the pack off Cape Sabine. On
June 20, 1870, Lieutenant Parr and I, wlien travelling on the
coast of (frinnell Laud (lat. 82° 30' N.), observed one of
these liirds ; and a few days later Lieutenant Egerton found
one dead on the shore some two miles further to the north-
ward. Wi' did not observe this species again till our return
to Baffin's Bay in September 187(>.
' .i!
j>ull
No. III.
()itNrriioLO(}Y,
215
17. Uria r.UYLLK.— The Idack fi;-uillen)ot or dovekio was
found breeding at various spots along the shores of Smith
Sound and northward, notably at Washington Irving Island,
Do))bin Bay, Cape Hayes, and Iiessels Bay ; it does not, I
think, breed north of Cape Union. I saw two or three
examples feeding in pools on the floe as far north as lat.
82° 33' ; but they were evidently mere stragglers,
18. Meiigulu.s alle. — The north-water of Baffin's Bay
is the summer home of countless num])ers of little auks ;
they do not, however, penetrate in any numbers far up Smith
Sound, the most northern point where I observed them being
in Buchanan Strait (lat. 79°). I do not think that tliey
breed to the north of Foulke Fiord ; but the talus at the base
of the cliffs whicb flank that inlet is occupied by myriads of
them during the nestirg-season. On Jidy 28 we found the
young just hatched ; in that stage they ai'e covered with
black down. Fiom the large amount of bones and feathers
lying around the huts of the Eskimo village of Etah, it is
evident that these birds contiiuule largely to the support
of the Arctic Highlanders during summer.
19. Alca Bruennichii. — I observed two looms in August
as for north as Jiuchanan Strait (lat. 79°); but tliis bird was
not seen again by me imtil our return southward in Sep-
tember 187(5, after regaining navigable water south of Cape
Sabine. The north-water of Baffin's I?ay is evidently the
limit of the northern range of the species in that direction ;
and I doubt if there are any breeding-haunts of this S2)ecies
nortli of Ca])e Alexander.
20. CoLYMurs . — On September 2, 1875, at Floeberg
Beach (lat. 82° 27' N.), a diver, I think ('. i^eptcnfvUniiilh,
alighted in a pool about a hundred yards from the ship. A
boat was instantly lowered ; Init the noise made by pushing
the boat through tlie young ice alarmed the bird, which rose
and flew to another pool half a mile to the southward. I
tried to make my way over the floe towards the bird; ])ut
the ice w.'is unsafe, so I had to give up the ])ursuit. The
numerous lakes and ponds in Grinnell Land abound with a
'^m^
mm
m
m
I
:-^
h\
mu
'■mi
mi
rM
21 G
APPENDIX.
No. ITT.
species of cliarr (Sahno arcturus, Giinther), which doubtless
might afford good living to birds of this family.
21. IIauelda gla(,"ialis. — We observed a flock of long-
tailed duck swimming in the pools of water between the floes
on September 1, 1875, near Floeberg Beach (lat. 82° 27' N.)
On September Ifi two were shot not far from the ship.
During the summer of 187G a few of these birds visited the
northern shores of (rrinnell Land , we found them in pairs on
lakes and ponds, where they were evidently breeding. From
the rapidity with which they dive they are very difficult to
shoot, and when secured do not repay the outlay in powder
and lead.
22. SoMATEUiA MOLL^ssiMA. — The eider-duck l)reeds abun-
dantly in the neighbourhood of Port P^oulke, but decreased
in numbers as we advanced nortliwards. It became rare after
passing Cape Frazer, the meeting-place of the Polar and
Jiafiin's liay tides, but was replaced to some extent by tlie
next species. I did not obtain an eider north of Cape Union.
Dr. Coppinger procured both eider and king-duck at Thank
God Harbour (lat. 81° .38' N.) in the month of July, 1876.
23. SoMATKiUA SPECTABiLTS. — I did uot obtain the king-
duck in Smith Sound during the autumn of 1875 : but in the
end of June 187(5 several flocks of males and females, num-
bering from ten to twenty individuals, were seen near Floeberg
lieach (lat. 82° 27' N.) Most of these fell a prey to our
gunners ; but those that escaped settled down to breed along
the coast, and several nests were found with fresli eggs in
them from tlie l)th to the middle of July.
24. Rkunicla buenta.— -During the first week of June,
parties of brent-geese arrived in the vicinity of our winter-
(juarters (lat. 82° 27' N.) For some days they continued
flying up and down the coast-line, evidently looking out
for places bare of snow to feed on. They were very wary,
and kept well out of gun-shot range. On June 21 I found
the first nest with eggs in lat. 82° .3.3' N.; subsecpiently
many were found. When tlie young are hatched, the parent
l)irds and broods congregate on the lakes or in open water
No. III.
ORMTIIOLOGY
spaces near the shore in large flocks ; by the end of July
the old birds were moulting and unable to fly, so that they
were easily secured, and afforded most valuable change of
diet to our sick. The flesh of this bird is most excellent.
The gander remains in the vicinity of the nest while the
goose is sitting, and accompanies the young brood. In one
instance where I killed iv female as slie left her nest, the
gander came hissing at me.
11
l;i; i'l I
\'
i
218
APPENDIX.
No. IV
No. IV.
igiitiiyology:
By Albert GOntiieh, M.A., Ph. D., M.D., F.Pv.S.
Ten species of fishes were collected hetween lat. 78° and
83° N., by the naturalists of the Arctic Expedition of 1875-
76, and submitted to me for determination.
1. CoTTUS QUADRiC'oiiNis (Z.) — A jouug specimen, four
inches long, was found dead by Mr. Egerton on the l)each of
Duml)ell Harbour (lat. 82° .SO' N.) No other salt-water fish
is known at present to have l)een found at a hi<>her latitude.
In this young specimen the nuchal tubercles are only indi-
cated ; but having compared it with a specimen obtained on
tlie English coast, another fiom Lake Wettern, and with two
from Sir J. liichardson's collection (the locality of which is
not known, but which most pr<-)bably were given to him by
one of the previous Arctic explorers), I have no doubt as to
their specific identity. Dr. Liitken has excluded this species
from bis list of Greenland fishes ('Arctic Manual,' p. IK)).
2. IcELUs iTAMATUS {Kvoyer). — Previously knoAvn from
8pitsl)eigen and Greenland, it seems to be one of tlie most
connnon fishes in the latitudes between 80° and 82°. Two
specimens were obtained at Discovery I?ay (81° 44' N. ),
several at Franklin Pierce Bay (in fifteen fatlioms), and seven
at Cape Napoleon. All these specimens were caught in tlie
month of August, and were ready for spawning.
,3. TiiiGLors I'iNGEi.ii (Reinh.) — No specimens of this
fish were previously in the naticnal collection. It appears to
' Abridfred from ' Proc. Zool. Sue' 1877, pp. i.>n.']-2i»r,, 47o-47G.
No. IV.
ICHTHYOLOGY.
219
be much scarcer th.nn the precedinjj;'. Externally the ventral
fin appears to Im composijcl of three rays ; but on dissection
four long' rays and one rudimentary one are found. Obtained
at Franklin Pierce Hay, August 11, 187o.
4. CycLorTEUUS spinosis {Milll.) — Previously known fi-om
Iceland, Spitsbergen, and (Ireenland. Two specimens from
Cape Napoleon, and foin- from Franklin Pierce Bay are all
young, and interesting as showing the irregular manner in
which the conical spines are developed. The larg(!st of these
young specimens is not (juite two inches long ; and the
tuljercles are much less numerous than in an adult specimen ;
it is rough, and covered with minute spines. In a specimen
fifteen lines long, only traces of the tul)ercles are visible on
the skin. A specimen twelve lines long is quite naked, whilst
another of the same size has the tul)ercles as much developed
as the largest, or even more so. The spines of the first dorsal
fin are sometimes quite distinct, sometimes enveloped in
loose skin.
CYCI.OPTK[{TTS SPI.VOSI-S,
5. LirARis fabric;! (Kroijer). — Previously known from
Spitsbergen, Greenland, Port Leopold. Is represented in the
])resent collection by n specimen from Discovery liay, and
others from P'ranklin Pierce Bay.
6. Gymnelis \iRuns (Fabr.) — One specimen obtained in
lat. 81° 52' N. ; is only five inches long, and lielongs to a
highly-coloured variety, being brown with numerous wliite
spots, and having four l)lack ocelli on the dorsal fin. Another
specimen was collected in Franklin P'erce Bay.
7. Gadus fauuicii (liich.) — Widdv distributed in the
t^^;'^
..'■mm
220
APl'KNDIX.
No. IV.
U 1
Wh
N
"i
Arctic regions of tlic western hemisphere. Two s|)ecimens
obtained off Cape Hayes, Cirinnell liand.
8. .S.\LMO AlU'TUiM'S («/>. 11.) — The nortliernmost salmo-
noid known at ])resent. This charr cannot 1k' identitied'
with any of the other races of this division of Salriio ;
it comes nearest to the charr of Killin (Inverness-; hire),
hut diflFers from it in havinji^ u 7nore slender body, rather
smaller scales, shorter tins, and a less number of pyloric
appendaj^'cs.
liody rather elont^ate ; head small, two-ninths or nearly
one-fiftii of the total lenj^th (without caudal), scarcely more
than one-half of the distance })etween the snout and the
vertical from the orit>in of the dorsal fin. The snout is
remarkably obtuse ; the maxillary varies in len<>th : in males
of the same size it soujetimes reaches scarcely to, sometimes
a little U'hind, tlie hind margin of the orbit ; in the female
it is smaller and shorter. Teeth small ; vomerine teeth
limited to the anterior extremity of the bone ; a band of
\ illifoim teeth along- tlie mi(kUe of the hyoid l)()ne. Prceoper-
culum with a distinct lower limb ; subopercubnn about twice
as long as deep; pectoral lait little shorter than the head,
exceeding in len<>th one-half of the distance of its root from
the ventral. Ventral terminating at a considerable distance
from the vent. D. 13 ; the longest ray as long as the head
(without snout). A. 12. Caudal moderately excised, its
middle rays half the length of the outer ones. Scales minute,
liranchiostegals 11. .
Upper jjarts of a dull })rownish green, passing on the sides
into the silvery or reddish colour of the low( r parts. Dorsal
and caudal of the colour of the back ; paired tins and anal
yellowisii. No dots or ocelli. Young with numerous ])arr-
marks.
The number of pyloric appendages were found to vary ;
one male has 31, anotlier 35, a third 44, and a female 42.
(Several specimens were obtained in Victoria Lake (lat.
82° 34' N.), and in freshwater lakes near Floek^rg Beach (lat.
82''' 28' K) Dr. E. Moss kindly connnunicated to me a
1:1,::,. rill
'^e'^^
No. IV.
ICHTIIYOLOCJY.
221
('olourt'd skctcli of a s|H'c'iin('n ciuii^ht in \<nth-I\a\iiu' Lnkc.
SpefiiiR'Hs twelve inches in leiij^ih are full-j^rowii ; lut lar<^er
ones
were found. Tlie ovaries ami testicles in specin
leus
ciuiglit in the month of August show the eomineneeinent of
seiisonal (levelomnent.
pni
9. S\LMO XhiVKfi {lilch.) — Of this sjH'cit's two examples
were o
\LMO
l)taine(l, about fifteen inches louff ; it is a well-marked
species of charr, characterised ])y the deep radiating juid con-
centric striation of the gill-co\t'rs. The typical specimens
weie obtained in l^oothia Felix; so that this cliarr has an
unusMlly wide range. Colitur silvery, with scarcely any
pinkish vinge. Cax'. pyl. 41. Obtained fruui a lake inllu;
vicinity of Discovery Uny (i;it. H\° 4-4' X.)
10. SaI-MO NAUKsii {ii. .sp.) — The body much elongate,
its greatest depth being one-tifth, or e\en one-sixth, of the
total length, without caudal. The length of the head is
mie-fourth or two-ninths of the same length, and nearly
one-half of the distance l)L'tween the snout and the vertical
from the origin of the dorsal tin. Tiie snout is obtuse the
foi-ehead tlat ; and the maxillary extends in the male to the
vertical from the hind margin of the orbit, but in the femah'
it is somewhat shorter. Teeth very small, those of the vomer
liuiited to the anterior extremity of the b me, a band of villi-
form teeth alonu' the middli' of the hvoid. Vri
vo
pcrculum
with the angle much rounded, and without a disthict I
as deep.
ower
'J'he
concen-
lind); subopercidum mori' than twice as lonj
gill-cover shows scarcely a trace of tiie i-adiating and
trie stria; by which ^Stdnio iiif'ulii.s is characterised. Pectoral
shorter than, or t'qual in length to, tlu' head without snout •
and at least one-half, or more than one-half, of the distance
of its root from the ventral. Ventral tins terminatin>>- at a
considerable distance from the vent. D. 13 ; the larg(-st ray
scarcely longer than the distanc<' of the eye from the end of
the operculum. A. 11. Caudal deej)ly excised, its middle
rays not quite half as long as the outer ones. Scales minute.
Branchiostegals 11.
Pyloric appendages 42. Vertebraj (J5.
■!;f
i
l«;1lli '"
i ^1 J
I ' 111
222
AITKNDIX.
No. IV
Upper parts lii>ht greenish olive, passing into deep recUtish-
pink (»n the sides, liower pjirt of a silvery coloui*. Sides
with very small red sjxtts. Dorsal and upper part of the
caudal of the colour of the l)ack. Pained tins and anal
and lower part of caudal deep red, with yellowish-white
margins.
Several specimens ^vere obtained in a freshwater lake near
to th(^ winter-quarters of the ' Discovery,' in a depth of from
ten to fifteen feet.
This is a small species, tl' ■ largest example mc^asuring
ten inches, all the others, males and females, being only eight
inches long. Yet the sexual f)rgans were fully developed, and
the ova ready for exclusion.
By associating tlie name of Sir George Nares with one of
the novelties brought home ))}' the Arctic Expedition, I pay
only a small trilmte of the esteem in which all zoologists
hold the leader of the ' Challenger ' and Arctic Expeditions.
u I
No. V.
MOLLUSCA.
1^ mJ'J
Wr^'
No. V.
MOLLUSC A.
By Edgar A. Smith, F.L.8., F.Z.S,,
Zoologiciil Depurtmcnt, Britisli Museum.
The chief interest attaching to tlie mulhisca obtained during
the Arctic Expedition arises from the collections being made
at localities further north than any whicli had been previously
investigated.
To save repetition, the exact position of the principal
stations at which iiiollusca were dredged is here appended: —
Dumbell Harbour, 82° 30' N. lat.
Discovery Bay, 81° 41' N. lat.
Cape Frazer, 79° 44' N. lat.
Dobbin J3ay, Griiinell Land, 79° 40' N. lat.
Franklin Pierce Hay, 79° 25' N. hit.
I. PTiniOPUDA.
Clione borealis, Pallas.
Hah. Abundant in Hartstene Bay {Feilden).
Captain Feilden informs me that this species was not
observed in Smith Sound north of Cape Sabine.
Limacma arct'ica, Fabricius.
Hah. Abundant in Hartstene Bay {Feilden).
' Abridged from 'Ann. and Mag. Xat. Hist.,' 1877, pp. 131-14G.
il
i'i *
1' '
^^111^
nil
224
Ari'KN'DIX.
No. V.
II. (iASTIfOroDA.
VUmi'otuma {HeUt) vlohuxa^ Mi^hcls and Adams.
Ilah. Discovery Hay, o fatlioius (Feildfii).
Only one iiitluT elony;atod specimen was obtained.
Fusus (J^iplio) tovtuosuH f Reeve.
Halt. Shore of Hayes Sound, 7J)° N. lat. {FellAen) \
Dobbin Hay 30, fms. {Ilart).
Bucciuiihi liijdrophauum, Hancock.
Hub. Franklin Pierce Bay {Feihleii and Hurt); Dobbin
Bay, 30 fms. {Hart).
Biicciniiin Belcher!, var. Reeve.
H(il>. Dobbin I^ay, 30 fms. {Hart).
Shell ovately conical, very thin, purplish brown, with a
few paler streaks here and there; whorls 5|, very coiivex,
spirally distinctly ridged, the rid<;es being"
:;liernat( iy longer, longitudinally rather
coarsely striated by the lines of growth,
and very obsoletely plicated ; mouth ir-
regularly t)vate, large, occupying more
than half the entire lengtli of the shell,
of the same colour as the exterior, termi-
nating interiorly in a short, slightly re-
curved canal ; columella oblique, s. arcely
arcuated, smooth, shining, whitish to-
A A /Lfuwv^j, . wards the base; epidermis thin, oliva-
v/^ AAjuui'^^' ceous, and laminated slightly on the
fyjy u- — J ^%^ principal distinct incremental lines or
raised lirula? ; operculum circularly ovate,
BuccNLM HKLCHKiM. ^^j^,^ ^j^^ nuclcus rathcr central.
Length 33 millims., diam. 17 ; aperture 19 millims. long
and 11 wide.
\.
MOLLrSOA.
22r>
The dentition of the anitnul of this speeies closely
reseinhles tlmt of liucchiuiii (/iri'iihttHllciiiii. and XcpfiDied
iiiii'iqiia^ !is represented by Troschel's ti<j;ures in liis work
'Das Gehiss der Schneeken,' vol. ii. pi. vi.
The above description was already prej)ared nnder tlie
snpposition that the specimen before tne was distinct from
li. licUher!, when, throuj^h the kindness of Dr. (Jwyn
.Jeffreys, I was enabled to compare it with the type of that
species. It is less elon<>ated, has a rather shorter spire;
and the body-whorl is niort; ventricos^. The columella also
is less arcuate and more obli([ue, and the spiral ridjjfes and
lines of j^rowth are mon^ ])rononnced. 'I'he ty[»e does not
display such rej;ularity in the alternation of lar<;t? and small
transverse ri(li«'es as the variety. A specimen of this species
from Finmark, in the; collection of Mr. Jeffreys, \t'ry closely
resembles the shell from Doblnn Jiay.
I'fen:
Buccinum sericatani, Hancock.
n<d). Dobbin Hay, ,30 fms. (I[<irl).
The radula of this species, which perhaps is ordy a variety
of B. Grcenhmdlcuia^ is remarkable for the unequal dentition
of the side plates, one of which is a trifle the narrower, and
is furnished with only two fanj^s : they are
sid)equal in lenfj^th ; but the inner one is a ff^^^ /
slightly the stouter. The other lateral plate A/a^ (^^ ^
has three teeth, of which the outermost is ^
longest, the median smallest, and at the base
joins the inner fang. The median plate ^^^y^^ skkuahm
bears four small conical denticles.
The only example of tliis species is a yoimg shell. It
agrees in all respects with Hancock's admiraljle description,
except that the cilia of the epidermis are apparently closer
together than in the type, in which they are said to lie ' not
much crowded,' whilst in the specimen before me there are
about three in the space of a millimetre. The surface of the
shell beneath the remarkable epidermis is very cuiiously
VOL. II. Q
HADll.A OF mv-
itm
■ I !.*•*;
5i :a
Jii
I
111! '■:
w.
ii.l
Ifl
II
220
AIM'KNUIX.
No. V.
wrinkly striiitcd. The o[K'rcMiluin is rouiifiisli, j^rot-nisjli yellow
on tlif inner side, and diiiy yellow cxterioiiy; and the nucleus
is nit her less centnil than in li. lidchcfi.
Ti'ii'ltutrop'in tennis, s|). nov.
Sht'll very thin, lij,dit, seini-tninsijarent, j,dossy white,
olobosely turbinate, widely and openly umbilicated, clothed
with a dirty-yellowish epidermis, produced on the keels of
the whorls into close-set, very short, bristle-lik(! tilainents,
and rather coarsely ol)li(iuely striated, or ruther hunellated,
niarkin<4' perioils of j,^rowr,h ; whorls
six, the two apical ones smooth and
rounded, the three following beauti-
fully sculptured with raised obli(iue
lines of ^^rowth and minute spiral
striie, keided and an<^ulated a tritie
S. WS^ / J /llU 'il^^*^<' t,he middle, convexly slopin<^
above the keel and nearly straij;ht
beneath it ; last whorl large, encir-
cled with three faint keels, two near
the middle and the third at the base, bordering the umbili-
cus; aperture sul)cireular, occupying about ^Y "^^ the entire
length of the shell, whitish within, streaked with irregular,
curved, yellowish-olive stripes ; the peristome is continuous,
thin, with the epidermis produced beyond its extreme edges;
columella white, arcuate, with a slight shallow channel at its
l)ase.
Cireatest length 33 millims., diam. of last whorl above
the aperture 18, greatest diam. 30; aperture 18^ long, nearly
17 wide.
lliih. Off Cape Louis Napoleon, Grinuell I^and, 79° 38'
N. lat., in 25 fms. (Feilden).
Only a single specimen of this grand new Triehotroph
was obtained. It is very different from any hitherto de-
scribed, being remarkable for its circular aperture, conical
spire, and extreme fragility. The entire surface under the
ruic'iioinoi'is TK-Nns.
No. V.
MOLLl'SCA.
'2-27
('|iiil«'rinis is l)eautifiilly sciilpturctl witli oliliiiiio raised liuert
or lirulie, and inimiteiy striated in u spiral direction between
them ; and the raised keels are also similarly striated. The
central keel of tlie last whorl is also visil)le on the nj)|»er
ones, and is situated just alxtve tlu; suture.
In the 'Annals and Ma^. Nat. Ifist.' tor AM<;ust 1H77,
p. 13f), 1 stated tliat the specimen upon which this species is
founded had been se(!U by I)r. JetiVeys, who considered it an
abnoruial form of T. blairlndla. Since then, in the Sep-
tember part of the same periodical, he has jiublished tliis
opinicm, oliservinji; that in certain other species (Littorlna
Uforea ix\n\ Fuhuh aidiqiius) *• the atiiicc kind of dititortiuiv
in obtierrahle.^
I have ajj^ain most closely scrutinised this shell, and still
/ cannot trace the ullf/hfcst i ireyulai'itij of (jcoicth, and
therefore I confidently adhere to my opinion, sliared by
several concholooists, that this form is decidedly distinct
from the well-known bicariuata; and it only remains for me
to point out its special characteristics, namely, the vast
ditfereuces of form and epidermis, the open umbilicus, the
sli<4'ht prominence of the keels and the subcircular aperture.
!
til.
> •■■■'■ -Sii nil
Trichotropls bovealls, Broderip and Sowerby.
Hal). Discovery Bay, 5 l"ms. ; Dumbell I [arbour
(Feilden).
The specimens from the above localities agree precisely
in shape and sculpture with that form of this species which
was described by Hinds from shells found at Sitka, under the
name of T. inennis.
Veliitlna {Morfillla) zonata, var. grandis.
Hab. Franklin Pierce I^ay {Hurt).
The only specimen was taken out of the stomach of Phoca
barbata, and is in very bad condition. This variety is so
very much larger than the ordinary size of the species that it
almost appears that it must be distinct. It measures 21
U2
iffil
, iiiii;
lilliii
228
APPENDIX.
No. V.
milliius. in len^tli, being about doubl' that of ("jould'.s figure,
Hancock mentions one from tlie west coast of Davis Strait,
wbicli was about tive-eiglitlis of an inch (or 1(5 millitns.) long.
Ndtica affinix, Gmelin.
JLib. I)obl)in lia}', 30 fins., l)ottom stones and mud
(Ilarf, August, 1K76).
Only a single suiall specinK^n was obtained, wliieh is re-
markable for liaving the spire ratlier more elevated than
usual.
Truchiis {M(ir(fnrlt(C) uhihUleaJi^, Broderip and Sowerby.
]{ab. Franklin Pierce Bay, 15 fms. ; jNIushroom Point,
82= 29' X. (Feilden).
This species is also reported ])y Jeffreys, 'Annals and
Mag. Nat. Hist.' 1877, March, p. 237, from 'Discovery Bay,
and fossil in Cane Valley,' trom specimens collected by
Captain Feilden during the expedition.
Trochas {Mar(jarita) (jlauca, Moller.
Htib. With the preceding species at Franklin Pierce Bay
{Feilden).
Ti'ochus' {Murgarifa) helloinus, Fabricius.
J foil. Franklin Pierce Bay (/'e<7(//'>/).
Trochus {Marf/<iiif((,), sp. jun.
IJah. Cape Frazer [Feilden).
This shell may be but a young specimen of Mavfiaritti
striata of Broderip and Sowerby ; but it eliffers from typical
examples in the spire being comparatively small in j)ropor-
tion to the body-whorl, the base of wliich i.s almost destitute
of revolving striaj ; the umbilicus is larger and not bordered
by a thickish ridge as is usually the ca<e in this s| eies.
X... V.
of (iould's fij^ure,
st (if Davi? Strait,
1() millims.)lon_i>;.
stones and mud
ined, wliicli is re-
ore elevated than
srip and Sowerbv.
JNInshroom Point,
freys, ' Annals and
)in ' Discovery Bay,
imens collected by
AlOller.
nmklin Pierce Bay
Fabricius.
jun.
inien of Marrfarltd
fitters from typical
y small in propor-
is almost destitute
r and not bordered
in this s| jcies.
>n. \'.
MOLLUSCA.
220
Chiton (Toiiicla) vuiruioreus, p-abriciiis.
Hah. Franklin Pierce ]iay, lo fms., temperature 29°"jO
(Hart and Feilden ).
Lepeta cwca, ( ). V. Aliiller.
H<(h. l^'ranklin Pierce Bay, 15 fms. ; Cape Frazer, 30
fms. ; and Richardson Bay, 70 fms. {Feilden).
Tiie animal of this species (var. concentrica) has b*".'n
briefly descril)e(l by ]Middenl)orff, /. c. p. 186, and also ]»y Dr.
Jeffreys in the ' Ann. and ^Mag. Nat. Hist.' 1877, March, p.
231.
linUa {CijIlcJina) alba, Brown.
Hah. Discovery Bay, 5 fms. (Feilden).
Bulla {Cylichna) striata, lirown.
Hah. Found with the preceding- species (Feilden).
(Jnchldiopsis fjroenlandica, Bergh.
Hah. Franklin Pierce Bay, 13-15 fms., stony bottom
{Hart).
It is interestinj)' to find tliis curious species, which w;is
described by Bergh from South Greenland specimens, rang-
ing- so far north as the above locality.
Eolis salmonacea, Couthouy.
Hah. DUcoxery Buy (Feilden).
A single small specimen of this very pretty animal was
found at the above spot. It is remarka])le how easily the
dorsal branchia; fall off with the slightest touch.
in. COXCIIIFEUA.
Tellina (Macoma) tenera. Leach.
Hah. Discovery Bay, 5 {m^^. (Feilden),
i i!' . ''••ff
i
"I't*
" ^ i
230
ArrENDix.
No. V.
I' '
Ml
Lyoiisuf. (inuiosd, ^Nloller.
Ifab. Discovery Hay, 5 fms. (Fellden).
CanUuvi idandicuht, J^inii.
ILib. Dobhin Bay, 30 fms. (Hart).
AxiiaiH Gouhlil! Pliili])})!.
Hah. Dincovery Ray 5', fms. (Feilden).
Tlu! shells associated with this species differ somewl :it
from the description given l)y (jould in having, Ix-sides ' tlie
widened groove,' a lanceolate depression or posterior lunule
which extends from tlie umbones down the dorsal sle|).". It
is iilso \ ery similar to A . croidinensis, Jeffreys.
Nucula Infldta, Hancock.
Hah. Discovery Bay, 5;^- fms. (FeUden).
Leda pernula, Miiller.
ILdj. Discovery Bay, 5^ fms. (FeUden).
Leda inhiufa, van, Fabricius.
n<'h. Richardson Bay, 80° 2' X. lat., 70 fms. {Feilden).
The specimens from the Jibove locality have the transverse
costa' ratlier finer than is usual.
Leda trvncaia, Bi-oAvn.
llah. Discovery l^ay, 5 fms. (Feilden).
In a young example of this species the posterior beak is
scarcely observable.
Astarte semlsulcata, Leach.
llaJ). Dumbell Harbour {Fe<. den) ; Discovery Bay, 5
fms. (Feilden and Hart).
PIMfi
No. V.
MOLLUSCA,
A^f > 1
Tlie blarkness of the epidermis in A. lartoa is due, T
think, to tlie specimens liavinn; liecn collected when dead :
for all the shells with this kind of dark e])iderTnis are old and
worn, and evidently have been untenanted by the liviii;;' animal
for some time.
A start a sti-Uifd, Leach.
Hub. Franklin Pierce Bay, 15 fms. {Feikleii and Hart).
Aatarta fahula, Keeve.
Hah. Dumbell Har})our and Discovery Ray (Frihlcn).
This species may l)e reco^-nised by the peculiar ribbinp;
near the umbones. In this rt^^ion the i-ibs are more stronj;ly
developed than on the r(^st of the sui'fixce of the vah'e, and
are not produced (piite to the margins, so that in looking- at
the shell with the umbones towards the e\e the dorsal areas
appear comparatively smooth.
ill! .KH ,.^
sterior beak is
covery Bay, 5
? Astarte Wareharai, Hancock.
Hah. Franklin Pierce Bay, 13-15 fms., bottom stony
(Hart) ; Richardson Bay, 80° 2' N. lat., 70 fms. {tV,J(hn).
I do not feel quite sure of the accuracy of tJie identirica-
tion of the specimens before me. They ditifer slightly in form
from Hancock's figure, being less elliptical by reason of the
anterior end being less produced ; Imtwith regard to the ribs
and epidermis they agree exactly with tl,o author's excellent
description — the formesr being ' fine, close, regular,' and the
latter pale greenish yellow. These shells, in shape, can cer-
tainly be matched with some specimens of ^. striata, and do
not appear to vary in any thing- except the difference of
colour of the epidermis, which in the latter species is lirown
or olive-brown. This species is considered the same as
A . fabula by Jeffreys.
^
232
ArrKNDIX. Xn. V.
il/'/ffc truncdJd, Linn.
7/(f/^ T)iscov(My Bay, a and 2.) fins. {Hart and Fc'iblen) ;
I)o})))in I^ay, 30 fms. (Ifdii).
All the spet'inuais from those localities have tlie posterior
niaroinal slopes directed inwards or towards the base of the
shell, whicli peculiarity is characteristic of the variety ud-
<lev(tlentiis. One shell is remarkable on account of the
abruptness of the truncation and its narrowness, the width
being only (! milliras. more than the length (30 millims.)
S;u:lcava arctica., Linn.
If((h. Discovery Bay, o fms. (Feihlen); Franklin Pierce
Bay iHiirf and Fe'ddcn); Dol)bin I?ay, 30 fms. {Hart).
Some specimens from Franklin Pierce Bay are remarkable
on account of tluMr great solidity, the depth and distinctness
of the muscular scars, and the purplish brown colour which
stains l)otli tlie inside and exterior of the valves.
i;
If'
i'!
fe i;
Modiolaria hvvUjatu, Cxvn.\.
Hah. Franklin Pierce Hay, 15 fms. [FeUden and Hart).
Til is species is considered by some authors a variety of the
British M. discors. I'here are, however, certain diflf'erences
in form, colour, and sculpture which appear to me sufficient
to distinguish the two species. The present is a larger
species, transversely more elongate and ])roportionally nar-
rower, the dift'erence in width of the anterior and posterior
ends being less marked. The striae on the hinder area, in
adtdt specimens, are distinct only towards the umbones, and
gradually ])ecome obsolete towards the margin of the valves,
which, on this account, an^ smooth and not denticulated
within as in discord. The epidermis o( lavlf/ata is brown on
llie greater portion of the shell, becoming pale olive or
brownish green towards the umbones.
t
4
No. V
MOLLUSCA.
.)0 i>
Peden [Psevdamv.aliivi) gronnlandicvs, Sowerby.
HaJ). Off Q;\\)v Louis Napoleon, 25 fnis. ; Hayes Point,
35 fms. {Fellden) ; Dis-covery Bay, 5^ fms. [Fcilclen and
Hart).
IV. BRACIIIOPOPA.
Rhynconella pslttacea, Cliemnitz.
Hah. 'Franklin Pierre Bay, 15 fms.; Cape Frazer, 80
fms. ; Cape >»ai>oleon, 25 fms.' {Feilden).
¥/
iiii'
0
■". 1
.f- • -.
'■\\
1 (|
h-
234
APPENDIX,
No. VI.
No. VI.
JKSECTA AND AILWIINWA.
By Rohert McLacht>an, F.R.S., F.L.S. &c.
>, 1*
■
i :
i 7
1 :;
Mi
I ,
ll 9
; jiiiJi
With the consent of llu' Council of tlie Koyal Society, alltlie
Arthropods, (excepting tlio Crusfdceii) were placed in my
hands for working out. These were principally collected hy
Captain H. W. Feilden, the Naturalist of the 'Alert;' hut in-
teresting forms also resulted from the researches of jNIr. Hart,
who occupied a similar position on hoard the ' Discovery." A
detailed Report on these collections Avas read hy me at
the meeting of the Tiinna^an Society on Decemher 15, 1877.
In that Rejjort I made some justly merited eulogistic re-
marks on the entomological lahours of the naturalists. The
materials hrought home from between the parallels of 78°
and 83'^ N. latitude showed quite unexpected, and in some
respects astonishing, residts.
In all there are ahout 4.5 species of true Iiisecta, and
16 of ArdcJniidd. Of the former 5 pertain to Hynienoptera,
1 to Coleojjteni, 13 to Lcpidopicra^ 15 to Diptera, 1 to
Ifemipfera, 7 to MulJjjjihaf/n, and 3 to CoUemhoUt. Of the
Arachidda 6 are true spideis, and ahout 10 are mites.
In this Report I was assisted hy Baron von Osten-Sacken,
who examined the Diptera, by tlie Rev. 0. Pickard Cam-
bridge, who worked out the P])iders, and by Mr. Andrew
Murray, who attended to the mites.
I have no hesitation in saying that the most valuable
of all the zoological collections are those belonging to the
No. VI.
&c.
)cioty, all the
laced in ray
collected l)y
lert-/ ])ut in-
of Mr. Hart,
iscovery." A
,d by me at
)er 15, 1877.
ulo!j;-istic re-
ralists. The
rallels of 78°
and in some
Iiisecta, and
)/raenoptera,
^iptera. 1 to
oh I. Of the
mites.
'sten-Sacken,
ickard Cam-
Mr. Andrew
lost valuable
nging to the
No. VI.
IN8ECTA.
2.*^ 5
entomological section, because these latter prove the exist-
ence of a comparatively ricli insect fauna, and even of several
species of showy butterflies, in very high latitudes.
INSJ'CTA.
HYVLNOriEUA.
Jh»iif)i(s hiil/ci(ft(>i, Dal.i' cm.
,, poliiriif, Curtis.
Ir/iiir union mff/ironiflas, McLaehliiii, u. sp.
Cri/ji/iix firrfirux, Scliiiidtc ':*
MicfOjUtstcr tip. ? (piirasitic tm Jfaxi/r/iirn ; coonons (inly).
The IFj/meiioptenr comprise two species of Inunble-bees
(Bomhi), and three parasitic forms that no doubt infest the
larvae of Lepidoptera. The l)ees freqiK^nted the flowers of a
Pedicularis, and may perhaps be instrumental in effecting
the fertilisation of that plant.
COLEOrTEliA.
Quedlvs fuhjkhis, Erichson.
The only species of Coleopfem is represented by one
example of the brachelytrous Quedlits fidgidiis from Dis-
covery Bay, a very widely distributed insect, common in
Britain. The paucity of insects of this order is inexplicable.
LEriDoriEiJA.
Coli'as Ifec/a, Lei'., var. f/lm'itili.% McLach.
Arfiyiinis jioUiris, Uoisd.
„ Vharidca, ScliDoidev (.several forms).
Cftri/S'ip/ifDins j)/i/<v(is, L., var. Feildeni, McLach.
Lijcfcna Atpdio, lioisd.
Dasychirn (/miilinidicn, "Wocke.
Mamestra (Y) Fvildeni, McLach., n. sp.
I'lusia jHirilis, T f iibii.
l',v/coj)Jiora >'S(ibi7ii, Kirby.
Scaparia yelida, McLach., ii. .«p.
Ppnthina sp. ?
Muodin 81). ?
(Fain. Tortricidec, but utterly worn).
r'
»
2'5fl
appj;m)IX.
No. VI.
i \
ii'
Ih^
I
V
The Lt'iihlitplcrd funii tli(' most leiniirkiiljlc t'catiiro. Fivo
of tlicm (included in n(;iirly 40 cxiuiiitlcs) iire butti'iHies t)t'
f^encra sucli us one ini^lit expect to meet wiiu on a summoi-
day's walk in Kngland. One of these latter is a variety of
Col'iitH Jledd, a briglitly coloured ' clouded yellow,' the typical
form of which is a known boreal insect, but which nevertlie-
less would hardly have been expected fron: so far north.
Tlun-e are two species of Argi/uiiis (' Fritillaries ') : A. palaris
(of which two examples were also found at ' Polaris' ]Jay by
the naturalist of the American expedition, and were the first
butterflies brought fr<im extreme hij^li latitudes), and A.
C'Juiride((, the numerous examples of the latter runninjj^ into
endless varieties, so that it is almost impossible to say if all
really pertain to this species. Tliere are three examples of a
pretty little ChryfiophniiKu ('copper'), wliich appears to be
a rather striking form {Fe'ildeai) of our familiar (J. phJo?((/^.
Also one example of Lycrcna AquUo (a 'blue'), a kno'-, n
Arctic insect, which is pcrliaps scarcely more than a form of
L. orhltidus of the Alps of Europe. A peculiar smoky-looking
Bomhyx is Dasychmt rp'oeuhiiidUu, having a large hairy
larva not much tmlike that of a tiger-moth, but with the
hairs arranged in tufts on the back : this larva was found
abimdantly almost up to the highest point reached. There
are two Xoctiue, one of which appears to be new. One
species of GeoinetrUla\ described by Curtis in the Insecta of
Koss' voyage as Psychophova SabiriL A new species of
Scopar'ui, and three species of Toiiriokla', the latter single
examples not in very good condition. (^aptain Feilden
assures me that, in the short summer, butterflies are on the
wing any time during the twenty-four hours, supposing the
sun's face be not obscured. One month in each year is the
longest period in wliich they can appear in the perfect state, and
six weeks is the period in each year in which phytophagous
larvre can feed ; so it appears probable that more than one
season is necessary, in most cases, for their full development,
and this may partially accoimt for the great variability often
exhibited in Arctic insects.
Xo. V[.
INRIXVPA.
237
DiPTiniA.
Piih'.r )iiffn))C'<, Zctt.
C/iiroiioiiiiis jio!(iri,i, Kirln' (mid about lliri't; utlier spet-ie^).
iSciiini sp. Y
TnC/ioccrd rt'iicldtioiil^i, fi.
Tijnilii (ircticd, Curtis.
Tiwliinii liiiid, Ciirti:* 'Y (iuicl about two others).
I'l/ri'llia ('(idat'i-riiid, \j.
Aiif/idiiii/id sp. !'
)Scd/o/)/idi/(i s)). 'f
Among th(! Dipfcrd tlicre is iu)thiiio; of any sjjcciiil im-
portance. The most striking- is a ' daddy-louo-lcos ' (^Tlpiila
arctica), well known as an Arctic species. Of the others
there are Callci(l((; (<;nats), Trichucent (' winter-onat,' hut
appeiirino; tliere after midsiunmer), Cliiroinniil (phime onats),
and familiar-look ino- Hies which appeared when otfal was
thrown away, or the cari'ase of an animal lay on the ground.
HinilPTKRA (AnOPLI'Ra).
HcinatopniiiH trichcchl, Bolieman.
The only so-called I[emi])terous insect is a louse (Hema-
topiuus trichedil) that infests the walrus; foimd in the
axillje and other parts where the skin is soft. This was
originally described from .Spitsbergen.
I I-
■ ' ' ' 1 1 '
\:a •:■■'
MALLOrifAGA.
J)<iroj)/ioruK <'cl)ltbrd(7ii/s, Nitz.scli (aud two others).
Xirntus ciujiulutus, Bunn.
„ pha-oiiotun, Nitzsch.
Colpocephdluin, sp. ?
Meiiopu)! (jonoplKfUDi, IJunu. var. y
The Mallophafin (bird-lice) are rather numerous in
individuals, some of them probably new species, others already
familiar. These of course are carried hither and thither by
their hosts.
ivwn
_.»o
AIMMlXmX.
COLLKMUOLA.
No. vr,
iHofuiiiit lii'HHi'l/Hii, I'lickard Y
I'oihwa /ii//>crl)or('U, lioliuiaau ?
Lipura sp. l-"
Of t,lu; Collcmhola two ure familiiir-lookinn^ species, often
found on tlie stn-face of the snow (as in the Alps, &c.), and.
from their hahits of sprinj^'ing in short leaps, iiiiown as snow-
tleas.
ARACIINIUA.
ARANKiniiA.
Tvyenaria dvti'dahilis, Caml)ritl;.'-t', ii. sj).
J'Jrii/otic j)iii/cro/)/ii/a, Thovcll.
„ pi'uLOcans, (Jainbriil^re, a. sp.
„ vexafru; (Jiuubridge, ii. sp.
Li/cum i/Utcialis, Thovell.
Titi-dtituld exaspemm, Onmbridg'e, n. sp.
There appeared to he several new forms among tlie spiders,
whereas others were ah'eady known.
f: :■ %
ACAHIDEA.
Jidclla, two or three .species.
SciriiH, one species.
Jli/ilrac/iiia, probably two species.
J\i/I<iiii, one species.
Orilidfa, probably two species.
J)(iiiM'Us, one speeie.s.
Dennah'ichus, one species.
The Acdvl (or mites) present representatives of almos
all the families, including the water-mites and the peculii
grou[j parasitic upon birds.
It must be remembered that only about 80 species
insects have been observed in Greenland, although nearly
100 years ago the fauna of the lower portion of that eountr
was worked out by the Danish missionary Otto Fabricini
Iceland has over 300 species, Spitsbergen comparatively few
No. VI.
)()kinjj; species, often
tlie Alps, &c.), and,
nips, known us snow-
ri-, 11. sp.
11. .'4p.
. sp.
lf,'e, n. sp.
ms among tlie spiders.
les.
) species.
Bcies.
No. VI.
ixsMcr.v.
•> 'V)
and no hntterlly is known from cither. Thns we see that
(iiinnell liund, iee-honnd and ice-covered as it is for all bnt
a short period in each year, possesses an insect fauna tliat
camjot he btyh.'d oLheiwisi; tlian remarkiihlc, and wliicli in
hutterllies is proliably riclier than (Jreeidand.
The as|jectof the fauna is decidedly what has been termed
'Scandinavian,' hut I regard the representatives as the
remnants of a once more extensive Arctic fannii, which came
in, or was developed, aftisr the close of the waiin .Miocene
period, and culminated before the gliicial epoch ; and in this
am disjiosed to agree with the late Edward Forbes in a th(;ory
advanced in 184(), in an attempt to account for the geohjgical
rehitions of the fauna and H(;ra of the Jiritish Isles, and
which has been accepted by many leading naturalists and
geologists. According to this theory, the c(jmmon origin of
the existing Alpine iind Arctic Hora and fauna is explained.
When the glacial period ceased, plants and animals began to
move northward; some found a congenial home on the top of
high mountains, and i-stablished the existing Alpine Hora and
fauna, whereas others reached the home of their ancestors in
the Arctic regions. During the long period that has elapsed
since those times, scarcely any moditicatiou in Arctic and
Alpine forms has taken })lace in some cases ; in others, in
wliich the divergence is greater, evolution will account for it.
''% y
iresentatives of almost
nites and the peculiar
iy about 80 species of
md, altliougb nearly a
)ortion of that country
onary Otto Fabricins.
«en comparatively few.
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)
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I
2tO
AITKNDIX.
No. VII.
li!
I l^niB
No. vir.
CliUSTAC'lJA.
B\ Edwakd J. Miiciis, F.fi.S., F.Z.S.
M'ilh NdTKS O.N TIIK ('oi*Kl'.)i».\, l)y tlio IJev. A. M. Norman. M.A. ; and
O-N THK Ohtkacoka, l>y (ioDitro Hraily, M.U., F.L.S.
The fnllowinjif account of tlu' Crustacea is confined to the
species coUccti'd between hit. 78° and 84° N.
The most northerly species coUected is Anouy.r nufjnx^
ont! of tht! coHinionest and most abundantly distributed of
the Arctic Araphipoda. Of this s|K'cies several examples
were collected by CommancU'r ^[arkham and Lieutenant Parr,
at 83° 19' N. hit., in May 187G, at a depth of 72 fathoms.
The next most nortlierly species, the well-known Hippolyte
acnlcdfd, was found on the slu)re of Diiiubell Harbour, in
hit. 82 " ,30' N.
The followinjj; are the principal stations at which Crustacea
were collected by the naturalists on l)oard the 'Alert' and
' Discovery.'
Fh)eberg IJeach, the winter (juarters of H. M.S. 'Alert,' in
82° 27' X. iat.
Discovery liay, winter cpiarters of the ' Discovery,' in
81° 41' N. Iat.
Cape Krazer, Grinnell Land, in 79° 44' N. Iat.
Dobbin Bay, (irinnell Land, in 79° 40' N. Iat.
Cape Ijouis Napoleon, in hit. 79*^ 38' N.
Franklin Pierce Hay, in 79° 29' N. Iat
A small collection of Crustacea made by Dr. A. C. Horner,
while on Iward the yjicht ' Pandora,' which has been placed
in my hands for examination, contains only two species col-
lected north of Iat. 78°, i.e. three specimens oi Atylas carl-
CRUSTACEA,
PI. II
o fa
3 '■
.<
3f
F. TurcV dal
London, Sampnun Low, MiirBti.ii* CV
MmtemBro^ imp
ml
I
r-'i!
:|
No VII.
('i;isTA( i:.\.
'2\\
iialiis, and four vciv small sjM'ciniriis ot" an Ain|»lii|Mi(la
pfiliaps brlonjj^injj; t(» llif ij^cnus Plit'nisn. I'xitli rlicsc s|»t'ci('s
wt'if eoUoctt'd at a depth of 7 t'atlituiis, on a clay iMiltoin, in
Pandiira llarliour, Smilli Sonnd, in lal. 7H^ 17' X.
Since my Keport was pnhlislied,' to wliich I must refer
for syntniymical references, descriptive remarks, and notes on
the j^eoi^raphical distribution of the species, a small collec-
tion lias Ikmii sent jne by I>r. Edward L. Moss, K. X., late
surjj^eon of II. M.S. 'Alert,' containin<jf a few A iiijiJi'ifnula^
Arcfiiriis, and y>/iiij)lioii, and fr<'e-swimmin<if Copcjuttld.
The Cojii'iKxIti, were entrusted to th<' Ivev. A. 'SI. Xorman for
determination: the other species had all been obtained by
Captain Feildeu and Air. Hart, the naturalists of tlu? Expe-
dition. To render the list of species complete, as rej^ards the
Crustacea iiihal»itin^ Smith Sound and tin; adjacent coasts,
a few species, obtained by Dr. Hayes north of lat. 7H°, and
recorded by Stimpson ''I', Ac. N. Sci. Pliil.' 1HG3), have
been intercalated in the text and are placed within brackets.
t^i
DKCAl'ODA.
Ci{AN<:oMn.u.
Chei'dphiliis horeas, IMiipps.
Discovery Hay, lat. .Si" 44' (both mah's and females), at
depth of 25 fathoms; Cape Napoleon, one male example,
at 25 fathoms; Franklin Pierce l^iy, one female, at 15
fathoms : t<'inperatiut' of water 2'J^*5().
Stimi)son records specimens collected l)y Dr. Hayes at Vovi
Foulke and Littleton Island.
Sah'iitcd srpt<'mc(tr! iiafa, 8al)ino.
Discovery Hay, 25 fathonis, abundantly, both mah's and
females; Cape Na|n»le(»n, 25 fathoms, three sjteeimens, males.
Dobbin Hay, at a depth of liO fathoms, one specimen, a
female with ova.
' Aim. Milt;-. ^"1- I'i"*'-' -"^x. pp. &2-G6, '.»C-11U (1877).
VOL. II. U
J •*i:
■i<v. it
i
242
Al'l'KNDIX.
X... VII.
ALrirKin.K.
IHplKtlliU'. GdiiiKirdii, Milno I'Mwaids.
Kraukliu Pierce liiiy, 13-1;3 futlioins, (»iio feiuiile spoci-
riii'ii.
Spi'cinietis were collected by Dr. Hayes at Pt)rl Foiilke.
inpjjufyfe spinvH, Sowei'by.
Discovery Hay, 5 sjiecimens, at 25 fatlioins.
n!p])ohjte tiivfjidn, Kriiyer.
Discovery J^ay, 25 tatlunns, one specimen.
Franklin Pierce Jiay, one sjjecinien, female with ova.
Cape Frazer, 20 fathoms, one female example.
Port Foulke (Dr. Ifayes).
Jfippolyfc PJuppsiif Kroyer.
Tape Frazer, 20 fathoms, one specimen.
Port Foulke (Dr. Hayes).
Hippolyte poldrls, Sa])ine.
Discovery Hay, 25 fathoms, abnnd.mt ; Cape Napoh'on,
five specimens: P'ranklin Pierce Bay. 15 fathoms. sev«'ral
specimens.
Doltbin Hay, 30 fathoms, one s])ecimen.
Port Foulke and Littleton Island (Dr. Hayes).
Hippolyte horealis, Owen.
Discovery liay, at 25 fathoms, several specimens ; Cape
Napoleon, at 25 fathoms, two specimens. '
Franklin Pierci' JJay, 13-15 fathoms, several specimens ;
Dobl)in liay, 30 fathoms, one specimen.
Littleton Island (Dr. Hayes).
Su. VII.
CUUSTACIvV.
I)mnl.rll l{Mrl,our,]iif. 82° 30', on.- f.-rnale s,«.cirn..n.
I'niukl.n I'ieree Huy, 13-15 fathoms, one male .specimen.
STOMATorODA.
MvsiD/K.
J///.S/.V ocu/u/r/, (). Fahricius.
rv^ Napoleon, 2.> fathoms (i.-mperatiire of «-nter
The sino-l,. sDoeim.n collected is in a very mnch mntilated
condition.
Bron-ht by Dr. Hayes from Port Fonlke.
IsoroDA.
Arcturushaffini,i^nhmv.
Ca,„> Napoleon, at 25 fathoms, two specimens, male and
remali'.
Dobbin Hay 30 fathoms, one male ami one female;
KuiklmlVrce IJay, 1.3-lo fathoms, fo„,. males and three
temales, and manyyoimo-.
A single specimen was collected, with many of th,> variety
I Ijuve d.s,y.,ated Fe!l<le>n, by Dr. Moss, on the ice f.H.t a
>.nle north of H.AI.S. ' Alert's ' winter-.p.arters.
Var. Fcildvni (Miers), Pi. II. fl^., ].
Tliis variety is distinn:iuslu.d by the absence of spines on
the head and segments of the body.
Klo.k.r« Wad,, 82" 27' X. fa,., vory abun.lam, „,ak.,
lemales, and 3'ouno-. '
;!*.*'
244
Ari'KNDIX.
N... VII.
Discovery Hay (on H'lpjjolijte ixAtiris), oiir iiiiil*' and one
tcmalc specimen.
Dr. Hnyo,-! collected this species at Port Foulke.
Phryxiis abdomiiKilis, Kniyer.
Discovery Bay, male and female, on Iflfpjiohfli' fxilai'ls;
Cape Napoleon, male and female, on //. jtohirls.
Franklin Pierce liay, 13-1;> fathoms, Hve males and five
females.
M iiuuopsis ti/f)!(ui, Siirs.
Cape Napoleon, two male specimens at, a depth of 2,5
fathoms, temperature of the water 2\)°"2 ; at aO fathoms on«*
male specimen.
Cape Frazer, 20 fathoms, ont' female specimen.
AMPIIirODA.
Anoiiyx mnja.c., Phipps.
Flocliorg Pe.ich, lit 10 fathoms, male and females; fire-
hole at kt. 82 24' ; and at lat. 83° ly' at 72 fath<.nis.
Winter-quarters of II. M.S. ' Discovery,' at 1 1 fathoms.
Mronght from Gale Point by Dr. Hayes.
Aiioiiy.r i/idosHi-, Kniyer. PI. 11. fig. 2.
Discovery I?ay, 11 fathoms, three specimens.
I have referred thest; specimens with some doubt to the
Anoiiyx r/iilosiis of Kriiyer, as the antero-lateral margin
of the head is less broadly rounded, and the accessory Hat>;el-
lum is lon^ifer than that of A. gulosu.s according" to Hoeck's
diagnosis. In the form of the first and second pairs of legs
and (»f the terminal segment they agree well with the de-
scriptions of A. f/al()t<i(ti^ and particularly in the presence of
a tooth on the inner margin of the dactyl, which is raeution<'d
Nu. VII.
(•|!USTA('i:.\.
2i:>
liV liilljcitoro' jis (■liariH'tfri>tic nt' lliiit sprcirs. I''rniii J.
liiiinlhis tlicy (lirt'tT in llw sliortiT antciiiia', and in tlir
absence of a tooth on the j)ost»'iior niarj;in of the fifth j)o>t-
abdoniinal se<jfnient.
Ones! Ill IIS h'lhi'drdsn, Kitiyer. I'l. II. lii;. 3.
Discovery Hay at '>}j fath<tn»s, lal. Hi" 44', one speci-
men; Floelieri;- Heach, at 10 tathonis, niai"'s an<l females,
abundantly.
Ati/lnti ciiriiidhis, .1. (". Fal»ricius.
Discovery I5ay, at depths of 57V and 2.) fat hom<, several
specimens of both sexes were collected.
AcauthoioiK' hijsln,i\ ()\sc\\.
Discovery Hay, on*- sju-cimen ; Franklin Pierce Hay, five
specimens.
1 full I'lii/c's fill I'ori iii'f us, ^i\Y^.
Discovery J?ay, at 2') fathoms, one specinn n : Floebcri,^
Heach, one specimen.
Hoth of the specimens collected are in an imjierfect condi-
tion : one is, I believe, an adult female ; the other is a youn^^er
aniujal.
►Specimens collected at Littleton Island liy Dr. Hayes
were described by the late Dr. Stimpson as new, under the
name of P/ie.runn tricnspls.
Gammarus locusta, Tiinn.
Floebere- Beach, at depth of 10 fathoms, twenty-five
specimens ; crack between the tloes in hit. H'2° 24', tlu-ee
specimens.
Port Foulke (Dr. Hayes).
Gammaracanthu8 lov'icatus, Sabine.
FlcK'berg Heach, at 10 fathoms, two males and two fe-
males.
m
i
11
m
24(;
AIMMIXDIX.
No. VII.
Ahialliilhi iniii/ulti, Kiuycr.
f'rack hciwrcn tlitcs at laf. S2'' 24' ; one .spcciiucii, in iin-
l)nrt'(;ct coiiditinii.
EusiniK cii>*f>}<latiis, Kiiiycr.
I'^iiinkliii IMcrcc Hny, 13-1.') tiitlioms. oik' tcinalt' speci-
incn.
'rrlfrojils ((.riilcdfa, ht^iicdiin.
T)iscf)vcry Hay, at 2.) fatlioms, one male, four fcinalcs
CajM' Napoleon, at 2') t'atlioins, three males, seven females
FU)el)er;4" Heacli, at 10 fathoms, two males, five females
Franklin Pieree l?ay, at 1.) fathoms, many specimens.
Cape Frazer, 20 fathoms, three youn«>; fi-raaU's (?) ;
Dobbin Hay, at 30 fathoms, one female.
[Them'iHto Uhelluht, INIandt.
Cape Faraday, in the stomach of a seal (Dr. Hayes).]
yE(/!ii<i ftp! iK>f<tss!niii, Stimpson.
Cape Napoleon, 2.') fathoms, temperature of water 29"'2,
one small male specimen.
Dobbin Hay, 30 fathoms, one larg^e male specimen.
KXTOMOSTll.VCA v. GXATIIOPODA.
PiiYij.oroD.v.
PllANCIIiroDID.l",.
Branch'ipus {Bnotch'niectd) ai-cticus, Verrill. PI. III.
%. 1.
Discovery liay, in a small freshwater lake and in a stream
under ice.
Nit. VII.
CIM'STACKA.
24:
Several s|te('imeus weiv cnllrcted, iiielutliiiL; iiialr^ ainl
females, (tf a sjieeies uf IMiyllupcKla, wliieli 1 refer t'» the li.
arrfiriiH of Venill.
'I'liese ^|.e(•iIIlens (Hirer sli;;iilly fmiii tlie (l.M'ript inn- uf
/;. iii'i'tli'iiH and f/rti'iihiii'llcfis, as will a|»|»(ar fn-m my
descriptir,!.' if distinct (wiiicli maybe pnssjlde, alt huiijrh
I thiuk it more prohaltle that the three forms are varii-ties
of one and the satne species), the species may be (h>i-;nated
Ji. Vcrrilll.
rol'Kl'ODA I'aHASITK A.
liHltN.KOl'Oltll) i;.
Lmiii'itiKKhi. (irrluri^ Miers, sp. n. F'l. HI. tit;-. -•
This species, as will a|»p<ar from the description, differs
from its nearest ally, the A. /v//'vo'/n;/, ( )lsson, in the some-
what shorter ovaries and abdomen, and the form of the claw
of the first niaxillijied. The L. Edaui nUl'i is known to mc
only fr(»m the description.
FJoeherj^ l-?eacli, parasitic on the n'ills oW^nlnio arcdinis
Gthr.
f,<'i'ii(i ojKxUi cf<))if/<iiii, (I rant.
Port !''<.ull<e (T)r. Hay<"s).]
^I/(iiiii>l)(ij)jH's ri/cloplcrliKi, l''al)ricins.
Fiittlcton Island : attached to the j^ills of Gj/niucfr,^ v'lr'i-
<lls{\)v Hayes).]
("imarKuiA.
i)ALAMI).K.
m
Ifi
'•u? •*!
It',,
Ml
A >i: '
M
Jidldnvft porcdtus. Da Tosta.
Cape Na}»oleon, from a depth of 50 fathoms, five speei-
■IP
' Op. (-it.
i!P
i!
i
I.;
•J IS
AI'I'IINDIN,
N... VII.
■us: 2.') riitliuin-, two spfciiiniis ; I'iclianixiii l'>;i\, SO' 'i'
\\v
N. Int., 7»l I'mII
( II till lliiiii-, (iilf >|)rclllli'||.
FniiiUiii I'it ret' Hay, 1JJ-1'> latlmius.
]^ lill/il It ilx Iki/iI iiniili's, Lillll.
I'miI KnjilL' (Dr Hayes).]
I'VCNnCOMhA.
NvMni(iMi» i;.
.'' Xi/itii>liiiii III rl II III. .1. ( '. Fahriciiis.
Franklin IMfiCf IJay, vvj:}\\ >|n(ini(ii>* ; Discovt'iy l>ay.
one s|H'i'iMirn ; i'liu'bcr^ Hcai'li, at (Icpl li nf 10 fatli(tms, t
s|Kciint'ns.
wo
yi/iiijilioii III rhi.iit.Mw. nbtiisiilii/Uii III (MitTs), IM. III. Hijf. .3.
Ain<tn,!jj the s|M'cinit'ns fioni Fiaiiklin IMenc Jiay is a
siu^lr rxainpli', wliicli (litV( is t'nini tlic males of the to re^oi no-
variety only in the h'jjcs heini; eyiimlrieal, not dilated iinil
compressed, and in the i'orni ot" the eliehn of the niandihles.
These have the lingers incuate, nieetiuiL,^ only at the tips,
which terminate in small knobs. The cluda^ are slen<ler,
not ojohose, as in the form tio'iufd hy Hell, in lielciier,
' Last of the Arctic >'oyan('s," p. 40!), pi. xxxv. ti^'. 4, under
the name of y. robust ii in, and that recently described by
Heller as y.li'mns ('l^it/.. der k.-k. Akad. ; ' Wien., 'Naturw.'
Ixxi. p. (510, 1S7.)), in \v]ii<'h species the fingers althongii
arcuate are represented as acute.
Xijniplinii Sfri'nnii ( Kriiyer).
Floelx'rg lieach, lal. S^'' 27', at depth of 10 fathouis,
tliree s]iecimens, and at lat. 81° ")()', one specimen; Cape
Fiazer, at a de})th of HO fathoms, bottom barii, one adult
and three young specimens.
.Nu. Ml,
CinsTACIlA.
Ill
NOTHS (t\ Till] or/v.iv/r cnpf-H'ODA.
B\ TIIK UkV. a. M. NdlJMAN, M.A.
■I "'♦«*l
TiiK ropcpiidoiis Cnisf.-icci, lli'iii.^li fur I lie Illicit |i;iit i>\'
vt'iy siiiiill size. Mild ii|»|»iiiciitly insi^^nititimi, ;irf nevcrt lidos
iiidirt'ct ly of no siiiiill cuiisiMiiiciicc lu iiiiin!^',i'l, iiiii<iimcli ;is
tlicy make ti]) fur ilnir iniuiilfiH'ss liy tin ,i fXtraMrdiiiiiiy
|irii(lu('tivt'iu'ss and niiinlH'rs, and coiistiliili , tii cMiiiltiiiat ion
with till' .Mysidca an*l lar\al tninis c iii;liii ( "in-' .i> la, a
prin<i|)}il clt'iiu'iit in I lie t'ndd of i lie Ahalc
1 lie oceanic species lia> e not liitlieriu li.iil i !iat aiii'iinit of
atteiitiiHl paid to t lielil wliicli t liey nndonliledly deserve, yet
Kniyer, Lul)lio('i\, Haird, and IJiicliliol/, lia\e examined and
docribed many forms wiiieii inliahit tlie Arctic seas.
lliifortnnately the nnml)er of specimens l)ioii^lit lioiiu l»v
the Arctic Kxpeditioii is very small, and, with the exception
of a bottle of surface-natherinj;- from HaniiTs l>a\. whiih
contains an interest i:>j;' series of some well-known forms, the
s[tecies are represented only by tnie, or at the most two speci-
mens, and these already niomited. In this condition it is
almost im[)ossible to determine ai'curatclv tho>e minute
details of structnre in the nmnth and other origans, which
are absolutely essential to the correct detinition of <j;eneric
and specitic characlers. At the same time, the conditions
under which the Copepoda were found, the extreme hii;h
latitude, and tin- extraordinary aimamt of cold which
]»r(.'vailed at the surface while these animals still remained
livinji^ in the di'ad of winter iH-neath the mass of supi-rincum-
bent ice, render them so interestinu" that I am uiiwilliii"'' to
leave them wholly unnoticed, though the dcscri])tion which I
shall be able to <>ivemust of necessity bt' extremely imperfect.
That tlie Copepodous Crustacea are al)le to exist under
circumstances, with respect to cold, which are most extra-
ii r
'I • «<€,
250
AITKNDIX.
No. VII.
i $
M
ordinary lias loiio- licen known. Otli > F. Miiller froze indi-
viduals of Cyclops quadrlcornis in a ^lass vessel, and when
fully frozen continued the cold for four and twenty hoiu's.
He then plaeed t!ie vessel in a warm bath, and watched the
etfect. For foiu" and twenty lumrs the Crustacea which had
ifjeen frozen showed no sij^ns of life ; the next morning-,
however, to his surprise he found the greater part of them
restored to life and swinnnino- about as before conj>elation.
It is a well-known fact also that the life of the eggs of Ostra-
coda and Cladocera can be maintained for niany months,
when ponds have been completely dried up in the sumnu'r
months, or frozen to their very l)ottom in raid-winter.
In the extremely cold winter of 1859 and IS()0 I insti-
tuted some experiments for the purpose of finding how far
life could bi' maintained, under extraoi'dinarily trying con-
ditions, among the lower orders of the Crustacea. Tke water
of the lake in Hardwi'ke Park, in the parish of Sedgetield,
had in the month of October l)een let otf so as to diain
large nuid-tlats on the shelving sides, in order that the weeds,
exposed by this means to the influence of the frost dvn-ing the
winter months, might be destroyed. The severest cold ttf
which we have record ensued for five weeks. From the
seventeenth day of December the mud-fiats were conliniumsly
frozen into a solid block, and the frost on Christinas Eve
reached five d(\grees below zero, Falu". On the conclusion of
the frost a portion of this mud was procured, and, yet further
to test the vitality of the eggs embedded in it, the nuid was
thoro\ighly dried. On jNIarch 11 a small portion of the mud
was placed in a glass jar of water and exposed to a genial
temperatme. A few days afterwards Duphtiia rotandd^
Sida cnjstallina, Didptomas castor, and Cyclops quadrl-
cornis, together with some Motif ent, were swimming about
merrily in the vessel.
It is no surprise therefoi-e to us to meet with these minute
Crustacea in mid-winter in the Arctic Sea, though the fact is
of importance as liearing iipon the supply of foorl existing
during the wintci- months for the Greenland whales.
\o. VII.
CKUSTACKA
2-')!
A towiiio-ni't oiltlu'lino- from liaffin's lijiy, hit. T.T^ 33' N.,
lonji^. 7(5° a9' W., m.uK' St'ptenilK'r l(i, 1S7(», the wattT at the
tfinpt'ratiire of 34°'4, contains niimcrons specimens of
Mcfrhl'ma (Mefridla) ((ritudd^ lioeck.' Tliis sjx'cies lias
been described l)y Professor lirady from the Irish coast under
the name of Pdrdcalanu^ hihcnuciis,'^ and I am inde])ted to
liim for the opportunity of comjtaring; these Irisli specimens
(since synonymised by him witli Boeck's genus) witli those
of the Arctic Sea. Tliey agiee in iiveiy respect excej)t per-
haps tliat the ter'ninal spines of the swimming feet are
longer in proportion to the j<»int fi'om wliich they spring
in tlie Arctic tliau tliey are in specimens from tlie warnjcr
seas. Witli respect to si/<' we find here, as in so many
other instances among the Invcrtelmtta, an extraordinary
development of the Arctic specimens, wliich are at least six
times the size of those fiom tln' Irish coast, and measure
five millimetres in length, exclusive of the antennae. It is
(piite possi])le that this genus may prove to be synonymous
with Pleiirommd of Claus ; but if that 1h' so, the mature male
of MetridiiKi minata, has not yet l)eeu observed, and the
males which Professor Brady and myself have t'xamined must
])e considered as immature, and not yet to have attained the
full development of those limbs which specially characterise
the male sex. Claus has named his gemis '■ Pleimynivul^
to indicate the ])resence of an eye, whicli he descrilu's and
tigures as situated ' penes maxillipeduni posticorum basin.'
It is not a little remarkable tliat, attached to the maxilliped
of one of the specimens of Mefi'ldlini (irmdta procmed by
Dr. Moss, is a group of parasitic organisms, each of which
is m the form of a little globular body supported on a pedicel
of greater or less hiugth. Sutticient cannot be made out of
the Gi'ganic structure of these parasites to determine the
class of aninjals to which they shoidd bo referred. They are
' BowVm fremia is ^letridia. " havo slin-litly (•linn;2-<>il tlie tcrniiiiatinn
to ]\retridiiia in order to avoid coufiision witli ^letridiiiin of Okcn, of
wliicli our well-liiiown sea-aiiPiiioiie ( Acfliiolohn tlitnif/iuK) is tlit> type.
* 'Ann. Xat. Hist.," S. tv. Vol. xii. p. liNi, PI. viii. i\vr, ]-'.],
m
m
' 1 n t El
M- 11
tit^^ m
m 1
'^i m
f'l
■f' ' m
r III
;h
'-«
i
4:^ '
m|
f«*
it'w\
iV, ;
' i ■
1
•'<*>2;
Ari'ENDIX.
N(.. VII
y,\
1.W i
extremely sinnll ; but we find seiuigloljular bodies of larjj^er size
figured in on(- of Kriiyer's pliitcs (' Voyages en Scandinavie,''
&e., PI. xli. tig. 2, e, f), as attached in one ease to the ventral,
and in the other to tlie dorsal, surface of Calauus hyper-
boreiis. It may l)e tliat these are the more mature forms of
the parasites now ol>served on Metrldlud arma!(i. Now, if
the young of such a parasite were attached t«) the base instead
of to the extremity of the maxilliped, it might very possibly
be mistaken for an organ of vision. 1 feel great hesitation in
even hinting at tliis possibility, knowing the extreme accuracy
of Claus' observations : but the mistake — if a mistake has
been made — is one which any observer might easily fall into,
more especially since organs, ])resumed to be supplemental
organs of sight, are not unknown among other orders of the
Crustacea {Thy8anopoda\ attached to the segments of the
body.
In this same gatlu'ring were large numbers of Calaiii,
the examination of which has cost me no small amoinit of
labour. I must take another opportunity of giving the
grounds on which the conclusions I have arrived at are based.
It \/ill suffice now to state tliat I believe that the whole of
the!<e specimens are referable to CalaiiUfi Finmarchtcuf<,
(luimer, better known to Britisli naturalists under the name
of Cetochllus septenti'ioindls, Goodsir, and that Calaims
7ii.(((jiiHS, elcgdiin and boreal is of Lubbock, and numerous
other so-called species, are merely states and conditions re-
sulting from ditierenees of the sex and age of our old friend.
The vei-y great development in size of the Arctic examples
as compared with the Ihitish, which results in the young
immatiue forms of the former surpassing in size the fully
developed individuals of the latter, has tended much to
render the confusion greater.
A mounted specimen collected by Captain Feilden near
the same spot is referable to the same species which was also
]>rocvired by Dr. Moss in the summer months at the winter
(piarters of the ' Alert,' lat. 82° 27' N.
Two very interesting gatherings were made by Dr. Moss
\(). VII.
CRUSTACEA.
253
from water drawn, in nii(l-\vint<*r, from midcr tlic it-i'-flocs
at the winter quarters of the 'Alert,' lat. 82° 27'. Tliere are
three species, imfortunately two of them represented only by
a single specimen, which being mounted prevents the possi-
bility of full examination; the first of these is a form closely
resembling apparently om* Idya f areata (Baird), but differs
manifestly in the form of the last legs, which are ovate
instead of produced and linear, as in the just-mentioned
species; this new form may 1h' named hhia pakvocrystlca.
The next species is remaikable on account of the nume-
rous long seta3 of the anterior antenna3, which are not longer
than the cephalo-thorax, and also the very long sette of the
swimming feet ; it is possi])ly a Dias, and may be called
Dlds (?) MossL
The last I doubtfully refer to the genus Pseadocalanus
of Bt)eck, and it may be named P. Fe'ddenl.
,.li
NOTES ON THE OSTBACODA.
By George Stewahdson Brady, M.D., F.L.S.
1. Mud from ravine, K'cpulsc Bay, Hall's Land; 150 feet
elevation, lat. 82° 10' N.
Cytheropferoii iitoidroslense, Brady, Crosskey and
Robertson.
2. Mud from Fiord N'alley, lat. 82° 8' N. ; 200 feet eleva-
tion, from valves of sliells.
Ciiprh curvata, nov. sp.
3. Mud-beds, Cave Kavhie; 100 feet elevation. Lat. 82°
32' N.
.lih
,^%
*i
jii
ii
254
APPENDIX.
X.). vri.
Cytkere f/lohidifcnt, Hrady.
4. Franklin Pierce Bay, 13-lj fathoms, lat. 79° 25' X.
Cytkere coatata, lirady.
Xcstoleberls (i>i,raidhi, Baird.
Cytlientr(t umlata, Hars.
SelerochUa.s eontortus, Norman.
o. Off Victoria Hcarl, Bachc Island, 3.) fathoms.
Cytkere leloderma, Norman.
„ t)tbercid(d((, Sars.
CytkerUlen jmnctUUdu, Brady.
Cyfkernrn rhdkrufd^ 8ars.
Cyfkeropteroit montroslense, Ii., C. and R.
G. Hayes Point, 35 fathoms.
Cytkere Lorpini.) Brady and Crosskey
7. Cape Frazcr, 50-80 fathoms.
Cytkere leloderma^ Norman.
„ fjihboi-i((, B. and R.
„ concinna, Jones.
„ (/lohvlifera, Brady.
Cytkeridea punctUlata, lirady.
„ sorhyana, Jones.
Cylkerura coiiceid/rlcn, 1?., C. and R.
Cytkeropteron nodosum, var. lirady.
„ pyramldale, Brady.
_„ aeptantrioiude, nov. sp.
„ moidrosiense, B., C. and R.
8. Smith Sonnd, oif Brevoort Island, 210 fathoms, lat.
78° 57' N.
Cytkere costatn, Jirady.
Cytkerura similis, Sars.
X... VIT.
CIJUSTACEA.
•)r
;);>
«J. Soun(li^<,^ (5 fathoms. Lat. 82° 27' X.
Cytheroptai'oii moidroslense, H., C. and R.
10. Hand fVoiii Flot'l)er<>- Jieacli. Lat. 82° 29' X.
Cijfhere cvibroiui, H., C. and K.
Respecting- tins list, all that it is needfnl here to observe is
the fifeneral similarity of the fauna to that of the Post-tertiary
•glacial beds of Scotland, and also, of course, to that of the
Xorth British seas, e.f/. Shetland and the X'ortheni Hebrides.
Two species appear to be undescriljed, but all tlie rest are
well known as o-lacial fossils. Considering the small amount
of material obtained, the number of species — twenty-one — is
larg-e, and would seem to denote a very considerable devehtp-
ment of minute crustacean life in the sea-bed of these
remote rej^ions.
m
if
t«?
I
«•*."
iili
\^
256
APPENDIX.
II.
N<.. VI r.
in.
Ilrarhijiirn
A/ioiinnu .
Mdrriini .
SfiniKifiij/difii
f'liiiKicm .
TmijmhIii .
.lin/t/ii/mtfa
J'/ii///oj>ii(/a
OKtriirtir/d
('(ijii'jiiiilii
(.'irrij)i;(/iii
I'yciioyoiiidd.
3
1
11
(i
7
:t'.)
:?
:u
2
4
Total
fi
<t
1
1
2
4
-n
12
1
1
1
21
I
1
:t
2
ll.S
30
5fi
The fort'i.'oin;.'- Table exiiihits (I.) the nuiuber of species oLtained
(luriiif^ tile ' A'aloroiis' cruise on tlie west coast of fireenland and in
Davis Strait ; (II.) tlio niunber mentioned by liiicliholz is occurrinir on
the south and west coasts of Greenland ; (III.) the nun' er obtained by
the British Arctic I'^xjiedition north of lat 78° N. in Smith Sound and on
the coasts of Grinnell Land.
EXVLAXATION OF THE PLATES.
Plate II.
/'/</. 1. An/itruK hajjim, var. Fvildcnt ; natural size.
Fiij. 2. Aiioui/.r f/itloMis?, sli<rhtly enlarjred: c, head and antenii;e (lateral
view) : h, ma.\illii)ed ; c, d, hands of first and second pairs of
lejrs : c, end of postabdomen, showinjr the form of the third
sefjfment ; /, terminal segment and last pair of uropoda ; all
much enlar^'ed.
Fiij. .'». Ottmnius Edu-ardsii, slightly enlarged : a, head and antenna}
(lateral view) ; b, maxilliped ; c, d, hands of first and second
pairs of legs; c, end of postabdomen, showing form of third
segment (lateral view) : /, t(>rminal segnu'iit and last two ]iairs
of uropoda ; all much enlarged.
Plah; III.
Fiij. 1. lirdnchijms {Tiranchincctu) arcticus, greatly enlarged: «, one of
the liirge prehensile antenna; ; b, one of the branchial feet ;
c, caudal appendages ; all still further enlarged.
Fiif 2. Lrniaojwda «n7«/7, greatly enlarged; «, outer antenme ; 6, first
maxilliped ; further enlarged.
Fii/. '•'>. Njintphoii /nrfiini, saw obfitsidij/ituiii, imlurai size: «, mandible ;
b, r, one of the appendages of the first and second pairs ; en-
larged.
No. VIII.
AXNKLIDA.
2o<
I
No. VI I r.
ANNELIDA.
w
'fWlltfl
By W. C. McIntosu, M.D., F.R.S.
Captain Feilden, one of tlu' naturalists of the recent Arctic
Expedition imder Sir George Nares, placed in my hands a
small collection of Annelids dredged between latitudes 79°
and 82° 30' N.
The majority of the species represented in this collection
have a very wide range in northern waters, many iM-ing
common to the British seas and the short!s of the North
Atlantic generally, and on the American side stretching from
the Gulf of St. Lawrence northward to the Polar ice Ix^yond
Smith Sound. With two exceptions all the species occur in
the seas of Spitsbergen, and one of them is Icelandic, while
the second is a somewhat doubtful form.
In the account recently published by Dr. E. Marenzeller,
of the annelids procured by the Austro-Hungarian North
Polar Expedition under Lieutenants Weyprecht and Payer,
27 species are mentioned, of these no less than 18 do not
occur in the following list ; but no further weight should lie
put on this than is warranted by the fact that only a few of
the abundant forms which possess a wide oircumpolar lange
have been obtained in either case. Many of the 18, indeed,
occur on the Canadian coast, and run northwards to I)a\ is
Strait ; on the other hand, about half the species procured in
the English Expedition do not appear in the Austro-Hungiiiian
collection, made between latitudes 74° and 79° N.
VOL. II. S
;; Is
ii'M
VI J>
a
;:f-!l
'k''W'\
258 APPENDIX.
roLYOiLiyrA,
POKVNOID^H.
Nychla clrrusa. Pall.
Eunoa (Erstedll, Malmgren.
Eunoa nodosa, 8ars.
Lagiaoa rarlspina, Sars.
Ilannathoi', imhricata, L.
Antinoe Sursli, Kbg.
PirYLLODOCID.E.
Phyllodoce grwulandlca, CErated.
Syllid^e.
Autohjtus louijisetosus. Oersted.
NEUEIDyE.
Nereis zouttta, Malmgren.
LUMBRINEREID^E.
Lumhrlcoiiereis fragiUs, 0. F. Miiller.
►SgALIBUEGMID/E.
Ewmenla cnissa, Qi^rsted.
HALELMINTiriDyE.
Cap'itella capitata, Fabr.
Ampiiictenid.e.
CistenUles granulata, L.
AlIPlIARETIDiE.
A^nphicteis SuHdevalli, Malmgren.
Terebellid^.
Scione lobata, INIalmgren.
Axionice Jlexuosa, Grube.
Thdep'us circinnatus, Fabr.
No. viir.
No. VIII.
ANNELIDA.
259
Saijellidr.
Sabella Spetsberf/eusiti, Maliuj^rcii.
Euckona anal'is, Kn'iyer.
Chone infuiidibuU/urtniti, Kioyer.
OLIGOCILETA.
LUMBKICID.K.
Clitellio arenarius, 0. F. Miill.
OEPIIYREA.
PUIAPULID.E.
Priapulus caudatus, Lmk.
CIEETOGXATIIA.
Sagitta bipwictata, Quoy and Gaimartl.
I am indebted to Dr. E. L. ]Moss (late surgeon H.M.S.
' Alert '), who served with the Arctic Expedition, for the
notice and determination of this Sagitta.. He informs me
that it was common in Melville Bay and Smith Sound. The
most northern specimens were captured by him in Bessels'
Bay, lat. 81° 7' N. [This species has a very extensive range
from the British shores northward, southward and westward.]
fb
11
§
m
m
W'i
200
AIM'KNDIX.
No. IX.
i!' "iii'i
km
No. IX.
r % J
ECUINODERMATA.^
By Pkof. p. ^rARTiN Duncan, M.B., Lond., F.R.S.,
I'ltES. (lEOL. >S0C.
AND
W. Percv Supen, Esq., F.G.S., F.L.S., etc.
FTiiB Ec'hiuodermata collected in Smith Sound and at the
winter-ciuarters of H.M.SS. ' Alert ' and ' Discovery ' were
obtained by the naturalists of the expedition, Capt. H. W.
Feilden, and Mr. Hart, under the superintendence of Capt.
Sir George Nares, R.X., F.R.S., under no small difficulty.
Apart from the trouble of drt;dging when the tangles froze on
coming out of the sea, the proceeding could not be frequently
attempted ; yet the number of specimens collected was con-
siderable. The collection, consisting of specimens admirably
cleaned and preserved in spirit, and of others equally well
taken care of in the dry state, was sent to the British
Museum. Dr. Giinther confided it to me for description
and classification ; and after I had determined the species, I
asked Mr. Percy Sladen, F.G.S., F.L.S., to examine the
forms independently and to join me in drawing up this re-
port. Our results were nearly the same ; but to my col-
league is due the new species of Aateracanthion. Dr.
Carpenter was good enough to examine and determine the
two species of Comatula. I am very glad to have this
opportunity of thanking Capt. Feilden for his assistance in
' Abridged from ' Aim. and Mag. Nat. Hist.' 1877, pp. 449-470.
■: k
IS'! '- i'
No. IX.
KCIIIXODKIJMATA.
-Mil
^ivin^ information rcj^anlinjj^ the (Vpth, temperatures, .ind
loealities relatinjif to the specimens.
The eoUeetion is so interest iiijj^ and tlie specimens an- so
variable, that we propose to desiriln' it fully in a separate
monoj^rajth. — P. Martin Duncan.]
Localities. — To avoid repetition, the followinj^ are the
positions of the collect in<i^-st at inis in (Irinnell Land m»'n-
tioned in this report : —
Floel)er;j; lieach (the winter-quarters of If. M.S. ' Alert '),
lat. 82° 27' N., lonj^. 01° 42' W.
Discovery Jiay (the winter-cjuarters of II. M.S. ' l)iscovery ";,
hit. 8r 41' N., long. (14° 45' W.
Itichardson Bay, lat. 80° o' N.
Cape Fra/er, lat. 79° 44' N.
Hayes Point, lat. 79° 42' N.
Dobbin Kay, lat. 79° 40' N.
Cape Louis Napoleon, lat. 79° 38' N.
Franklin Pierce Bay, lat. 79° 2.y N.
Although the present Keport is chiefly confined t(» a de-
scription of the Echinoderms obtained north of lat. 78° N., it
has been thought desirable and interesting t(.) include the
record of a dredging made by Capt. Feilden during the
outward voyage, on July 2, 1875, in lat. (55° N. The station
was 26 miles from the Greenland coast, and the depth 30
fathoms ; bottom rocky, with rounded pe})bles. The following
Asteroids and Ophiurans were taken here: — Asteracanthion
polar 18, M. &T.', Solaster endeca (Linn.), Forljes; Ophio-
glypha robusta (Ayr.), I-iym. ; Ophiofjlypha Stuivitzii
(Liitk.), Lym. ; Ophiopholis bellis (Linck), Lym.
Li»t of the Echinoderma collected dxiriwj the Arctic
Expedition of 1875-76.
HOLOTIIUROIDEA.
Cucwniaria frondo8a (Gunn.), Forbes.
ECHINOIDEA.
Strongylocentrottis driJbachiensis (0. V. M.), A. Ag.
im
ii«
'■»
141
262 AT'PFNDIX.
ASTKIIOIKKA.
AsfrrdratilJilon (/r<rnlaiiilleii»f Stp.
• jxild'orrynldlhiH, nobis.
SfirlKistcr (ilhidnH (St imps.), Vt'rrill.
CrnsHftstvr jKippofins (liiiick), i\I. it T.
Solufiter endeca (liiiui.), h'orlK's.
fnrcifcv, V. Diih. & Kor.
Ptcmstcv mUHaris {(). F. .M.), M. & T
Ol'HIUROinEA.
Oj}hi()(/hjph(t Stirnii (liiitk.), Lyrn.
r<)l)Uf<t,(i (Ayr.), liyiii.
Stmvitzli (Jiiitk.), Jiyin.
Ophiocfcn sericeum (Korb.), Ljunjjfm.
Ophiopholls bellis (Linek), Lym.
Amjjhinra Ifolholli, Liitk.
Ophldamthit Hp'niitloHd., M. &, T.
Adrophyton arcticiDii (Lcadi).
Crinoidea.
Antedon Eschrichtil (Miill.).
celticd (Barrett).
Xi). I.\.
HOLOTIIUROIDEA.
Cucnmaria froiidosa (Gunner.), Forbes.
Coll. Foilden : Baffin's Bay.
A Cucumnria with smooth toun^h body, of subpentagonal
ovate form. Ambulaeral suckers arran<i^ed in five longitu-
dinal series, each l)eiiig a double row, with the tube feet
alteraatino". Suckers capal)le of entire retraction. Tentacles
ten, pedunculate, frondose, all of equal size.
This Holothurian has a very extensive geographical dis-
tribution, being chronicled by Forbes, under the name of C.
No. IX.
ITIIINODKiniATA.
203
fncif(>l(f, i'lom A!<si,-liiii(r Hny (Cnpt. I'timy's voyafjo), nnd
by Stiiiipsoii from Ciraiiil Mauiiii in tin- Hay of Kimdy. It is
found also on tlio coast of .Massailmsctts, Gnlf of CJcoinia
(Sali'nka), San Francisco (Ayics), alonj^ the whole Scinidi-
naviiin coast, Iceland, Ka-'iiK' Islands, and in the En<;lish
Channel.
C./ro»»?osa attains fijreat diniensi<ms, the ju'esent indivi-
dual (one specimen only was o])tained) lieinj^' hut small; its
length is 80 millings., and diameter about 50 Uiillims.
^1
t
r
iFJI. ?«
I' hi
EcilINOinKA.
, I'oiKjyJitcemtvoUiH ilrobachlcuHls (Alilller), A. Ag.
Coll. Feilden : Ix'ichai'dson l?ny, 70 fms. (y(»nn<j;); Frank-
lin Pierce Bay, 15 fms., bottom-temperature 21)°'o F. ;
Cape Napoleon; Hayes Point, 3.3 fms., bottom-temperatiu'e
29°-5 F.
Coll. Hart: Discovery Ray, 15-20 fms., muddy bottom ;
Franklin Pierce liay, 13-15 fms., stony.
Ovvinji; to the extensive ranj^e of this l)oreal echinoid, the
variations to which it is subject are so ^reat that there are
perhaps few other species which include in their synonymy
so large a numlx?r of modern determinations. Distant observers,
depending upon the stability of ' loeal forms,' have founded
numerous so-called new species, all of which have hitherto,
however, proved imtenable when due comijarison has come to
be made with a large series t)f specimens.
The northern varieties, known as S. rfravtiloivH (Say),
Gould, and 8. chlorocentrofvs, liiandt, fail to present any
characters of sufficient importance- to warrant their separation
from the drohachiensis group, although when isolated and
extreme examples are compared the differences at first sight
appear very marked.
Similarly with the specimens collected by the recent Ex-
pedition, separate individuals placed by the side of a single
S. drobachienais from a more southern habitat present
superficially a striking divergence.
M
m
1 ■!
i
1
iilffi
264
ArPEXDIX.
No. IX.
Of the.se Arctic forms the test is depressed, the spines of
the abactinal surface so small (merely miliaries) and so
widely spaced that the echinus has (piite a n,aked appearance.
The pores are arranged in arcs of 5-6. The primary tubercles
are large, only one to each plate, and form prominent vertical
rows. The scrobicular areas are wide and bounded by an
irregidar circlet of tubercles little larger than miliaries ; and
there are but few other tubercles in addition to these oi. the
plates above the ambitus. Extending from the actinostome
to the ambitus there is a moderate-sized secondary tubercle
on each side of the primary.
All the specimens present the appearance of stunted
growth.
The colour of Lhe test is a varying shade of purplish
lu'own, and that of the spines greenish grey.
On some examples the pedicellarioe are remarkably w-
merous, especially the large tridactyle form on the abactinal
surface.
Grood series of specimens were obtained at several stations,
and in general facies present great constancy of character.
Th(i largest individual (from Cape Napoleon) measures
43 milliuis. in diameter, 21 millims. in height, and has
20 primary interambulacral tubercles.
ftv
ASTEROIDEA.
Asteracanthion go'dnlandicus, Steenstrup.
Coll. Feilden : Discovery Bay, 25 fms. ; Cape Frazer,
80 fms. ; Hayes Point, 25 fms. ; Franklin Pierce Bay,
15 fms.
Coll. Hart: Franklin Pierce Bay, 13-15 fms., stony.
This is a small starfish, with five moderately thick
arms. Proportion of disk-radius to arm-radius 1 : 4*5 or 5.
Ambulacral spines rather long and cylindrical, arranged (in
very irregular alternation) two and one to each plate. The
double spines radiate in opposite directions, the single ones
standing vertical to the floor of the furrow. Except in
' ,(■
i..#
No. IX.
ECIIINOUEKMATA.
2G5
m
young individuals, and near the tip of the arm, the double
series are the most numerous, l)eing generally bonie l>y two
or three plates in succession. After these follow two or three
(according to age) longitudinal series of separate spines, not
quite so long as the anibulacral spines, and tapering slightly
at their tips. The middle series, when present, are smaller
than the others, and placed midway upon the lateral iml)ii-
eating pieces. At the base of each of the spines of these
three series is a circlet of pedicellarise. The ossicles and
interspaces of the calcareous network on the abactinal surface
of the rays present a very transversely elongate arrangement,
in consequence of which the spinelets springing from the im-
bricating pieces assume the character (though irregularly) of
a transverse position across the arm. The dorsal spinelets,
which are much finer and shorter than the ventro-lateral
series, are arranged in groups upon the ossicles, and in speci-
mens preserved in spirit are more than half-covered by the
thick corrugated skin which invests the body. The pedicel-
larise are, as a rule, not very numerous upon the dorsal
surface. The papulae are single. Upon the disk the spine-
lets are more closely placed ; and this, in spirit-examples,
gives quite a distinct appearance to that portion of the
animal, whilst in some specimens the disk-spinelets are
rather longer than those which are found upon the rays.
Dr. Liitken is of opinion that this is the species cited by
Forbes under the name of Uraster violaceus, from Assistance
Bay (Capt. Penny's Expedition).' It secies probable to us,
also, that the Aderlas vloUicea, in Sabine's Report on
Parry's voyage, is likewise A. f/ronhindicus, since the Asterias
ruheiis. Fab. (non Linne), also there mentioned, is referable
to A. polaris, M. & T.
m ai
fff;|
:»>*;
Asteracaiithion polaris, Miiller and Troschel.
Some large specimens were taken on the Torske Bank,
Greenland, on the outward journey ; and several young
1 ' Vidensk. Meddel. 1857, Overs. Gronl. Ecliin.' p. 20.
i«f<
2GG
APPENDIX.
Xo. IX.
examples occurred in Capt. Feilden's dredgin*^ in lat. 65° N.,
26 miles from the Greenland coa.st, at a depth of 30 fathoms.
Asteracantklon palccocrystallus, n. sp.
In general appearance this starfish bears a strong resem-
blance to a Cribrella, the rays, five in number, being round
and tumid ; they are long and taper considerably towards the
point. The disk is small, its diameter being proportional to
that of the rays as 1 : 5*5. Skin semitransparent, not corru-
gated, and investing thickly every appendage of the body.
Ambulacral pores well spaced, forming two simple rows of
sucker-feet, as in Stichaster. Each interambulacral plate
bears two very slender spines, which form t yo regular rows,
one radiating towards the furrow, the other to the margin.
The spines upon the sides of the arms are much shorter than
the ambulacral spines, and comparatively more robust, and
are the same in size and character as the spinelets of the
dorsal surfoce. The ossicles of the abactinal network are
arranged more quadrilaterally than is usual in Asteracanthlon;
a regular median line passes down each ray, the others run-
ning parallel and transverse to this with more or less regu-
hirity. Only a single spinelet is given off at each decussation,
with an additional one, frequently, on the imbricating ossicle ;
the spinelets are consequently widely spaced and assume
(although somewhat irregularly) a fairly rectilineal arrange-
ment. The spinelets are of the same shape and structure as
in Stichaster ; they are deeply grooved, and have 3-5 denti-
cles proceeding from their tnmcate and slightly radiate apex.
The ambidacral spines have the shafts also denticulate. The
pedicellaria3 (' croises,' Perrier) are more numerous upon the
dorsal surface than the spinelets, amongst which they are
placed separately and at intervals apart. These pedicellaria3
are large and closely resemble those of Stichaster, the fore
part of the 'jaw' being very gibbous and tnmcate. The
pedicellariro together witli the dorsal spinelets, which are but
little longer, are covered with a thick investing membrane,
.i-.ii .-
No. IX.
ECIlINODETiMATA.
2G7
which, in spirit preparations, gives quite a papillate appear-
ance to the starfish.
Upon the disk the spines are somewhat more crowded than
upon the rays ; and the ' eye '-spines at the tip of the rays
form a robust terminal fringe. The madreporiform plate is
obscure ; and of the large simple pedicellariae there are but
very few.
Although this species resembles Stichaster in so many
respects, the arrangement of the dorsal ossicles is hardly such
as would include it within that genus. A. palccocrysi Mus
may fairly, however, be regarded as a connecting link between
Asteracanthion and Stichaster.
From the character of the ambulacral spines, the absence of
papulae, and the obscurity of the madreporiform body, we are
disposed to regard even the largest specimen we have as
being not yet fully developed : it measures 30 millims. in its
greatest diameter, and 5*5 millims. across the disk, and was
collected by Capt. F'eilden in Discovery Bay. Depth 25
fathoms, hard bottom. Another individual from Cape Frazer
(80 fathoms) is only 10 millims. in greatest diameter, yet
presents all the characters of the larger specimen.
ti fl
ii
m
: t-
Stichaster albulus (Stimps.), Verrill.
Coll. Feilden: Franklin Pierce Bay, 15 fathoms; Proven,
13 fathoms.
A little starfish with small disk and rounded or somewhat
arched rays, the number of which is almost invariably six,
three rays on one side being, as a rule, very much shorter
than those on the other. Proportion of the diameter of the
disk to that of the arms 1 : 5 or rather more. The ambu-
lacral furrows are wide, with suckers arranged in two simple
rows. On each interambulacral plate are two ' ambulacnil '
spines radiating slightly to the right and left. Closely succeeding
to those on the sides of the arms follow a series of three similar
spines, but not always a series opposit(; to each interambula-
cral plate, owing to the imbricating pieces being more widely
'l:;l?
iff
lit*'".'
m
i ""I -15
*M
|,;f
5^^'! Sill'
iM
208
APPENDIX.
No. IX.
spaced. The dorsal ossicles present a regular rectaugiUar
ariaugeirient ; and the interspaces, which are very small and
are occupied by a single papula, form, in consequence, regular
longitudinal and transverse rectilineal series. From each
intersection springs a small sulxpadrate group of from three
to five short dorsal spines, amongst which are placed one or
two pedicellariae. Towards the sides the pediceilarise are more
numerous. The spine groups are regularly disposed in longi-
tudinal and transverse lines, those of the middle row being
more densely packed than the others, thereby forming a more
or less distinct median line down each ray. The spinelets are
of equal length, and, being closely set, give a smooth velvety
appearance to the starfish. From the apices of the spinelets,
which are broader than the bases, proceed three or four small
denticles.
Onl}'^ three specimens of this Stichaster were obtained in
Franklin Pierce Bay, and were quite young individuals, the
largest measuring 16 millims. in its largest diameter. A
much finer example was dredged at Proven on the outward
jouniey, in which the diameters of rays and disk were respec-
tively 30 millims. and 6 millims.
Crossaster papposas (Linck), Miiller and Troschel.'
Coll. Feilden : Discovery Ray, 25 fms., hard bottom ;
Cape PVazer, 80 fms. ; Franklin Pierce Bay, 15 fms., bottom-
temperature 2 9°' 5 Fahr.
Coll. Hart: PYanklin Pierce Bay, 13-15 fms.
' Tlie fronus Solaster of Forbes iiichided the two starfishes ]»nown as
Asferiait endvcn, Linn., and A. papposa, Fabr. (Linck). The morpholo-
gical diilerences of these forms are such, however, as to necessitate their
beinp regarded as representatives of two distinct jrenera. Confining, there-
fore, Forbes's So/aster to his own type (S. eiidoca), Miiller and Troschel's
genus CronHnnfer (synonym of Solaster, Forbes, published a year later) is
naturally assigned to the Asterias papposa type, Gray's designation Poli/-
aster having been appropiiated by Ehrenberg (Polyastprias) at an earlier
date. The propriety of the above limitation was suggested by Dr. Liit-
ken 80 far back as 1857. (Of. ' Vidensk. Meddelelser,' 1857, p. 35.
lliiiiii^
yo. IX.
ECIIINODERMATA.
2G9
In the ' Oversij^t over Gronlands Echinodermer,' ' Dr.
Liitken records that amongst the specimens of C. papposnH
which he had examined there occurred only one example of
the ten-armed variety, those with twelve arms being the
most common.
All the specimens of this collection are ten-armed, with the
exception of one small and very young example having nine.
Its greatest diameter is only 18 millims.
When compared with series of similar size from more tem-
perate waters, the polar specimens are characterised by finer
arms, fewer spine-clusters (bearing fewer but very much
longer spinelets), the spine-clusters more widely separated
from one another, and the ventral spaces almost naked.
These points are so striking in some individuals that at first
sight one is tempted to consider that we have here a well-
marked variety of this almost cosmopolitan starfish. Careful
study, however, of the series leads us to the conclusion that
no sound distinction can be driiwn ; and we would offer as a sug-
gestion explanatory of the divergence, that in these Arctic
forms of Grossaster premature phases are more slowly passed
through, and that development of detail takes place in a dif-
ferent ratio to the body-growth from that which obtains
under more favourable conditions of life.
The largest specimen qbtaiued measm-es 93 millims. in
diameter.
Brandt founded a species, Asterlns affi.nis, upon a single
specimen obtained in Behring Straits, but which, from the
short description given, appears only to have been similar to
the specimens bt;fore us ; and, such being the case, the grounds
are not sufficient to warrant the maintenance of bis species.
In all probability A. alhoverrucosa, Brandt, is also identical.
A singular instance of the rapacity of this starfish may Ije
here related. The disk of one of the large individuals from
Discovery Bay being considerably distended, it was cut
open; and the distention was found to result from the
creature liaving gorged a young StronrpjloceiUrotasdrubachl-
' ' Videusk. Meddelelser ' fur 1857, p. 40.
■ll
.Ml
'M"fii
m
11
mm
270
APPENDIX.
No. IX.
ensis !, nothinf^ but the clean calcareous plates of the test re-
maining. In the stomach of another (very much smaller)
specimen was found the shell of Trochiis olivaceas, Brown
(kindly determined by Dr. Gwyn Jeffreys).
Solaster endeca (Linn.), Forbes.
One young specimen, 14 millims. in greatest diameter, was
dredged by Capt. Feilden in lat. 65° N., 26 miles from the
Greenland coast, at a depth of 30 fathoms.
: '■
m\
■* ■<
Solaster furcbfer, v. Diiben and Koren.
Coll. Feilden : Cape Frazer, 80 fms.
A starfish of somewhat depressed form, having five broad
flat arms. Proportion of disk-radius to length of arm 1 : 3.
The calcareous network of the dorsal surface is very regular ;
and the spine-clusters or paxillsB, which spring from the inter-
sections, form longitudinal series which run parallel to the
median line of the ray ; consequently only two or three of the
middle series reach to the tip, although from fourteen to sixteen
may be counted at the base of the arm. The paxilla) are
very compact and have a stout rounded base, nearly twice as
wide as high, bearing a crown of spinelets (about fifteen to
twenty) in length about equal to the diameter of the base.
The spinelets are, as a rule, flat ; and from the angles of the
apex, which is as broad as or broader than the base, proceed
two small denticles, giving the appearance to the spinelet of a
two-pronged fork ; sometimes the spinelet is triangular, in
which case there are three prongs. On the sides of the arms
are two rows of large paxillae or spine-clusters, the lower
series being twice the breadth of the upper ones, and these
themselves being much larger than the rest of the dorsal
paxilla) just described. There are about twenty large mar-
ginal paxilla? from the arm-angle to the tip. Each interam-
bulacral plate bears three equal-sized spines, running parallel
to the furrow ; and exterior to these are three or four spines
webbed together into a ' comb ' and placed obliquely, or even
No. IX.
ECIIINODERMATA.
271
in some cases at riglit angles, to the ambulacral series ;
whilst midway between the combs and the margin of the
ray are three or fom* small spines (not sufficient to form a
paxilla proper), which stand quite isolated and only extend
about one third of the distance from the mouth to the tip of
the ray. The madreporiform tubercle is excentral and situated
at about one-third the distance from the centre to the margin
of tlie disk. The mouth-phites are large and broad, the mar-
ginal spines interlocking with one another.
Only two specimens were obtained by Captain Feilden, the
largest of which measures 65 millims. in its greatest diameter,
and 21 millims. across the disk ; the arms at the base are
13 millims. broad.
Pteraster Tnilitaris (0. F. M.\ MUUer and Troschel.
Coll. Hart : Dobbin Bay, 30 fms.
This starfish is readily distinguished from its congeners
and the majority of other asteroids by the singular fin-like
margin surrounding the arms, by the membranous skin which
is spread over the upper surface, as well as by the series of
webbed spines which stand, in transverse ranges like fans, by
the side of the ambidacral furrow.
The form of the animal is pentagonal, the upper contour
of the body high and arched, and the underside flat. Propor-
tion of disk-radius to arm-radius 1 : 2. Each interambulacral
plate is furnished with five or six long spines, which are con-
nected together by a membrane into a webbed comb placed
transversely to the ambulacral fiurow. The outward spine of
each comb is double the length of the others, and extends
about half its length beyond the edge of the ray. These long
spines are also united to one another by a connecting tissue,
and thus form the fin-like fringe whicli surrounds the entire
starfish. The ambulacral spines forming the fan-likt; com]>
are nearly equal in length, the middle ones being slightly
longer.
The body-skeleton is composed of a calcareous network,
m
m
6;!
272
APPKNDIX.
No. IX.
from each of the cross joinings of whicli proceeds a spine-
fasciculus bearinjy three or four spinelets. The wiiole dorsal
surface of the animal is co/ered and concealed hy a mem-
branous tissue supported above the body, like a tent-cloth,
by the spinelets, to the tips of which it is attached. A
hollow infradermal cavity is thus formed. Neither the anus
nor the madreporiform tubercle has any special aperture in this
investing membrane ; there is, however, a single large-sized
opening, surrounded by a margin of spines, situated nearly
over the dorso-central axis. In and out of this aperture Dr.
Stimpson has observed currents of water passing, as in the
cloaca of a Holothuria, from which fact he was led to regard
the functions of the cavity as subservient to respiration.^
MM. Koren and Danielssen, however, have pointed out that
this intermediate space between the double dorsal skin fuliils
a further and more important purpose by becoming a chamber
in which the development of the eggs and embryos takes
place. ^
Although our knowledge of marsupiation in Echinoderms
has recently been largely augmented by the additional in-
stances which Sir Wyville Thomson records as occuiiing in
species from southern sea •* it is most interesting to find
so special an adaptation for the purpose in this truly Arctic
asteroid.
Two specimens only were obtained, being dredged by Mr.
Hart in Dobbin Bay. They measure about 60 millims. in
their greatest diameter.
"Hi
Ophiuroidea.
Ophioglypha Sarsii (Liitken), Lyman.
Coll. Feilden : Floeberg Beach, 10 fms. ; Discovery Bay,
25 fms. ; Hayes Point.
An Ophioglypha with mouth-shields shield-shaped, longer
• Stimpson, 'Marine Invertelmita of Grand Mauan,' j). IT), iii .Smith-
sonian Contribiilions, vol. vi.
' Koren and Pauielssen, ' Fanna littoralis Xorvegite,' Heft 2, p. 58.
* Wyville Thomson, 'Journ. Linn. Soc." vol. xiii. p. n.".
No. IX.
EnilNOnERMATA.
27;5
■J
than broad; length less than, or only eciual to, their rlistancci
from the margin of the disk. Papilla} of the disk-ineision
about fifteen, and rather broad. L'nder arm-plates widely
separate, of a very broad, short triangle-shape. Tw(» tentacle-
scales. No infrabrachial indentations. Spines rather long,
etpial in length to the side arm-plates.
This is the most northerly echinodenn brought home })y the
Expedition, a fine specimen with a disk-diameter (»f 20 millims.
having l)een taken by Capt. Feilden at the winter-tpiarters
of H.M.S. 'Alert,' in N. lat. 82° 27'. Other examph-s of
this species wer(? obtained at Discovery Hay, and among
them one which is provided with remarkably long arm-spines,
being in relative proportion fully twice the length of the
spines generally occurring in 0. Sa/rsii. In this individual
the three spines of the sixth joint measure respectively 2*4.'>
millims., 2*25 millims., 1*4 millim. ; th(! under arm-plate
being '7 millim. long, the arm-joint 1 millim., and the disk-
diameter 15 millims. The remaining features of the specimen
agree too closely with the characters of O. tSdrsll (Liitk.), Lym.,
to warrant its remo\al, in our opinion, from that species, even
as a provisional variety.
In some cases great irregularity is exhibited in the mouth-
papillae, one abnormal example being particularly worthy of
notice. In the Ophioglypha' the innermost mouth-papilla
generally stands immediately over the teeth, and might be
easily mistaken for a tooth, being, in fact, affixed to the tooth-
plate and not to the lateral plates. In O. Sarsii, as well as
in other members of the genus, two additional papillaj aie
generally associated with it, one on either hand, and are in
like manner borne by the ossicle upon which the teeth are
placed.
In consequence of this arrangement it has long seeined
probal)le to one of us that these sul)dental papilhe should l)e
regarded as tooth-papilla; (of which they are in truth the
homologues) rather than as mouth-papillrE, so-called, along
with which they are commonly counted. One of the speci-
i
r 'U4
II
VOL. II.
274
APPENDIX.
No. IX.
f;-::!'^
I;
\P\
mens taken in Discovery liay tlirovvd considerablo light upon
this question.
In this individual the dental armaturo eonsist.s of four teeth
ref,Milarly superposed, followin^^ up(.n whieh, and occupying the
same breadth as a tooth, are thi-ee os.s.oles, which fit to one
another wed^ewise with slopinjj^
sides. Then come two wliich
fit together and correspond in
their shape with the irregu-
larities of the upper and luider
tier, wliich latter consists of
fi-oin three to five compact
close-fitting papillae; and these
again are succeeded by three
or four (in some rays five)
moderately long, round-tipped,
smaller papilla}, the whole
f()r?ning a compact mass sug-
gest iv<', in the highest degree,
of ordinary tooth-papilla), such
as occur, for instance, in Ophio-
thriv ; and yet in every detail,
even to measurements, the specimen conforms to the diagnosis
of Ophlofjh/pha Sarsii. This individual has a disk-diarneter
of 22 millims.
Hearing in mind the tendency towards vertical redupli-
cation of the mouth-papilloe in some genera, this cannot fail
to be regarded as suggestive of the manner in which primitive
tooth-papillte may have been developed ; nor is such an
assumption by any means extravagant when the great irregu-
larity of these parts amongst Arctic forms is taken into con-
sideration.
w.p.s
Abnormal development of the
ilentnl iirmaturo in 0. Sarsii.
Ophioglypha robusta (Ayres), L3'man.
Coll. Feilden : Discovery Bay, 25 fras., hard bottom ;
Richardson Bay, 70 fms. ; Hayes Point, 35 fms., bottom tern-
No. IX.
FCHINODERMATA.
275
pcriiture 2{)°*5, and nlso at li.') fins. ; Franklin Pierce Hay,
15 fins., lM)tt()m-t('in])('ratur(' 2.>°'.'5.
Coll. Hart : ' Winter-quarters,' Discovery ]}ay ; Franklin
Pierce liay, 1,3-15 frns., lK)tt()Tn stony.
An 0})h!o</h/ftha with arms very finely tapering, and disk
with regularly arranged scales of nearly etpial size. Muutji-
shields ovate shield-shaped, length less than, or at ninst
only equal to, their ])readth; length inueh less than th(!
distance from the margin of the disk. Papilho of the disk-
incision very short and stout, often gi'ou|)ed. Under arm-
plates broadly heart-shaped ; one tt>ntacle-scale.
This species was obtained at various stafions, as indicated
in the list of localities ; and though neither the abundance nor
the size of the specimens was remarkable, several g<M>d series
were collected. The characters which have Ix^en regarded as
* specific ' are remarkably constant ; and no essential diti'e-
rence can he traced between these Arctic ft)rms and specimens
taken from the coast of Maine, U. S., with which they hava
l)een compared, excepting that in the northern 0|)hiurans
the arm-spines are longer and somewhat nK)re delicate, and
that the outer margin of the imder arm-plates is more
arched and the re-entering angle is far less developed, in
certain specimens being even altogether untraceable. In some
large examples the upper arm-plates are very markedly
hexagonal.
Although this deviation is very constant, the foundation
of ' a variety ' on the strength of such characters alone is
hardly justifia})le.
The arm-spines are moderately stout and tapering, the
upper one being flattened and much larger than the others.
In most of the specimens under present consideration, the
nnder arm-plates are well separated from one another by the
side plates and do not overlap, although in one individual
from Discovery Bay the first ten impinge distinctly in conse-
quence of their side arm-plates not meeting. This feature at
the basal portion of the arm has been noted })y Dr. Liitken
as occurring in large specimens from Greenland, whilst he
I 2
I'll .i«r|
mm
'11 ii
IV f.
I'r ,i»
:1> :t*
m !i
27C
AlM'KXniX.
No. iX.
m
rcniJirks at the same tijno that in none of the Danish txanipk-s
examined by liini do the nxuhr ann-platcs tonch.
The hirfi;('st npcciinen was taken by Capt. Feihlen in
Franklin Pierce Bay, the diameter of the disk v^v^.ied) beinjjf
10 millims.
Ophl')(/fij))h(i. Stmv'dzii (Liitken), Tiyman.
Two specimens were eolh-eted hy Capt. Feilden in a
dredj^injj; made in lat. ()5° N., twenty-six miles from the
Greenland coast, depth 30 ftns.
Ophiocten sericeum (?'orbes), Ljnngman.
Coll. Feihlen : Discovery Hay, 25 fms., hard bottom ;
Cape Frazer, 80 fms. ; Hayes Point, 3o fms., bottom-tem-
peratnre 29°"5.
Coll. Hart : Discovery Hay, 15-20 fms., mnddy bottom,
also at 11 ftus. ; Franklin Pierce liay, 13-15 fms.
Disk very flat, with margin forming a sharp angle;
covered with imbricating sc-ales and a superficial scjuame
granular layer, through which only portions of the raiial
shields and primary plates are visible. No disk-incisions,
the disk forming a little Jirch over the base of the arms. A
row of papilla? edges the genital slit, and passes over the arm
along the disk-margin continuous with the series from the
other side. The first three, or sometimes four, upper arm-
plates at the base bear pa|«^llte. Side arm plates meet below,
but not above. One tentacle-scale. Three arm-spines,
arranged along the outex* edge of the side arm-plate, the two
upper spines being much the largest.
The main variation which we have noted in the Arctic
specimens of this species consists in the greater length of the
arm-spines as compared with those of more southern examples.
In a specimen 9*2 millims. in disk-diameter the length of
the upper arm-spine of the sixth joint was 1*85 millim. (in
one case 2*3 millims.!) ; in another, with a diameter of disk
of 8*5 millims , the same spine was 1*8 millim. long, three
I
♦"t;!'
No. IX.
ECinNODKlJMATA.
277
Hrin-joinis in tin's individual iH'injj; exactly 2 niillims. In
addition to the above, variations oecnr in the contour of tli<}
month-shields, ami in thelar<jferexain|»leseonsid('rahle irrcj^u-
larity is also found in the nundx-r and positit)n of tin- niouth-
papillio. Anionjj^st this collection are several sp<.'ciiuena
having a very decidedly pentagonal form of disk.
In our opinion, none of the above variations can l)o
regarded asof greater morphological significance than growth-
phases, or at most individual variations only. Tiie largest
speciinen ol)tained was 11 millims. in disk-diameter.
If t
m
'^ lii'
Ophlopholls hellis (Linck), Lyman.
Toil. Feilden : lat. 05° N., 2(5 miles from Greenland coast,
30 fms.
Amphlura irolhiiUI, Tiiitken.'
Coll. PVilden : PVanklin Pierce Bay, 15 fms., bottom-
temperature 29°*5 F.
An Avipluiivd with disk lobed ; radial shields long and
narrow; mouth-shields rounded; side mouth-shields large,
subtriangidar, with the sides re-entering and angles rounded.
Three pairs of mouth-papilla^, the middle ones placi'd higher
than the others. Under arm-plates pentagonal. One ten-
tacle-scale rounded ; arm-spines 3-4.
Only a single specimen of Arnjjhliira was taken ; and
this, although it differs slightly from the type form in the
relative measurements of eertain points of detail, we have
little hesitation in assigning to Dr. Liitken's species, the
variations, in onr opinion, not being of greater importance
than such as we should regard as dependent on locality and
conditions of life.
The arms are less broad, and take their origin in a raoro
' So much confusion hns arisen in consequence of qncertninty ns to fli«
identity of the orifrinal Jipplicntion of tlio appellation O. Siiudcrttlli, tliat
wo prefer to retain Dr. TiiitkenV name, despite tlie example of certain
recent writers to t'le contrarv.
■:Il. ■
w .
is
9Pi ;
I
:,■ ' r
|(^ ■' ^
t'l; >
mil
^u
278
APPENDIX,
No. IX.
deeply re-entering curve of the disk-margin, the radial shields
are narrower, and the breadth of upper arm- plates in pro-
portion to their length is less than ia the type forms, as the
following measurements will indicate : — Diameter of disk 8
millims. ; radial shield, length 1'3 millim., breadth '35
millim. ; sixth upper arm-plate, length '6 millim., breadth
•9 millim.
The spines are hollow cylinders, stout, blunt, and but
slightly tapering ; the upper spine on each side-plate tapers
most. The first fifteen arm-joints bear four spines, the suc-
ceeding joints three only.
An interesting feature connected with this specimen is
worthy of record, and is one which does not appear to have
been noted by previous observers. The central spines are
more or less flattened throughout their whole length ; and
at the tip compression has been carried to such a degree as
to form a thin and somewhat expanded head — a peculiarity
which is at once suggestive of a characteristic spine-appen-
dage possessed by A. Jillformis ; and although in the specimen
under notice this structural feature is by no means so fully
developed as in that Ophiuran, it is still sutficiently marked
to impress upon the mind the near relationship of the two
species and the community of their descent — an hypothesis
Y.hich is also further strengthened by the association of both
the forms in more southern waters.
Ophiacantha spinulosa, Miiller and Tioschel.
Coll. Feilden : Discovery Bay, 25 fms., hard bottom ; Cape
Frazer, 80 fms. ; Franklin Pierce Bay, 15 fms. Temperature
29°-5 Fahr.
Coll. Hart: Franklin Pierce Bay, 13-15 fms., bottom
stony.
An Ophiacantha with disk covered with small round scales,
each bearing a small short spinelet. Radial shields very
obscure, sometimes quite covered. No disk-incision ; and the
dorsal memlirane is prolonged over the base of the rayt.
Mouth-shields twice as broad as long, irregular ovate. Side
No. IX.
No. IX.
ECIIINODERMATA.
279
1 shields
in pro-
, as the
if disk 8
.dth -35
breadth
and but
e tapers
the suc-
cimen is
to have
lines are
i^th; and
egree as
jculiarity
e-appen-
specimen
so fully
f marked
■ the two
ypothesis
I of both
1.
)m ; Cape
Qperature
,, bottom
md scales,
elds very
; and the
the rays,
te. Side
raouth-shic'Ids long," narrow, arched and meeting within.
Under arm-plntes heplagonal or subheptagonal, breadth equal
to length. Dorsal arin-plates triangular. Side arm-plates
meeting al)ove and Ix'low. Spines 7-8, long, thin, and
denticulate, placed on a keel.
A greater number of this Ophiuran have been brought
home by the Expedition than of any other Pk'hinoderm. The
specimens range in size from those having a disk-diameter of
15 millims. to the young form of only 3 millims., and conse-
quently furnish a most instructive series.
The variations dependent on gi'owth are very considerable,
so much so that isolated specimens taken from ditferent stages
in the series might easily be regarded as affording the types
of distinct species.
Oondiisive proof has been furnished by the material which
we have had at our disposal that the 0. gronhiudica, M. and
T., and the 0. arctica, M. and T., are untenable species, as
Dr. Liitken has already pointed out — and, further, that the
characters which had hitherto been regarded as of specific
value are not, as that eminent authority seems to infer, even
variations such as can be regarded as dependent on distri-
bution, but must be considered simply the phases incidental
to age, together with ordinary individual variation.
Amongst the specimens procured by iue naturalists of
H.M.SS. ' Alert ' and ' Discovery,' there are many presenting
features developed in a manner which might l^e regarded as
* ultraspecific ' when compared with the previously recog-
nised modifications of this ' form.' In the present state of
knowledge, however, it seems preferable to comprehend them
under 0. spinidosa of Miiller and Troschel, rather than to
biuden further the nomenclature with novtl designations.
The mouth-shields and the imder arm-plates in this
species are subject to very considerable changes and variation,
both in contour and in their relative proportions of length to
breadth. In large and adult specimens the numljer and
arrangement of the mouth-papillre is also irregular; and not
only is there a frequent increase in numl)er in the ordinal
horizontal series, but there is also a great tendency toward
", i
I
l'^'*V,l
i,Jf(!
280
APPENDIX.
No. IX.
i^y
'ii i«
m
';.i
i '■■'
'i!
' /
i ■ ■
^^-
'Mi-
reduplication of certain papillae in the vertical axis of the
Ophiuran. This seems to arise from the longitudinal
cleavage of pre-existing papilla3.
In young individuals the spinelets of the disk are pro-
portionally long, five or six times their own diameter, and
present all the appearances of ordinary embryonic spines.
During the process of growth, however, increase is made in
thickness only, so that when maturity is attained, and the
spinelets, along with the disk, are invested with the semi-
transparent leathery membrane of the body, the appearance
is more that of short stumpy prominences than of actual
spines — a deception which at lirst sight gives a totally
diflferent character to the Ophiurans.
Astrophyton arcticum (Leach), ^cZe Smith.
This Astrophyton was dredged off West Greenland by
Mr. A. C. Horner, who accompanied Sir Allen Young in the
* Pandora,' at a depth of 600 fms. in Smith's Sound, lat.
78° 19' N., long. 74° 30' W. The present writers have not
seen this specimen, and are indebted for the information to
Mr. Edgar A. Smith, F.Z.S., of the British Museum, by
whom it has been determined and referred to Leach's species.
This is particularly interesting, as the original Gorgonoce-
phaliis arcticus. Leach, was obtained by Sir John Koss in
Baffin's Bay, lat. 73° 37' N., long. 77° 25' \V., at a depth of
800 fms. This was one of the earliest instances of a livinjr
organism being dredged from so great a depth.
Crinoibea.
Antedon Eschriehtn (Miiller) and Antedon celtica (Barrett).
Coll. F'eilden : Discovery Biiy, 25 fms., bottom hard.
The ComatidcB were handed over to Dr. Carpenter for
determination ; and he has kindly informed us of the occur-
rence of the above-named species.
Conchjslons.
It is clearly manifest that extreme caution should be
exercised in drawing conclusions as to the general character
No. IX.
ECIIINODERMATA.
281
of a fauna, on the basis of such scanty material as it is pos-
sible for a single expedition to furaish ; and the authoi's feel,
that the great hesitation which they have in expressing
definite opinion is fully warranted by the fact that considerable
additions have recently been made to the Echinifauna of
Northern-European waters, the details of which have not yet
been published ; and these investigations may, in all proba-
bility, have the result of going far towarda rendering present
generalisations invalid.
Ik
tm
Table s/ioivviff the general Geographical Distribution of the various Species
above mentioned : together with an Indication of those obtained by the
2)revious Arctic Explorers, Captains Parry and Penny.
S
g
Ciicttmaria frotidosa
StronjiylocciitrotHs dviitjachieimg
Anteracaiithion f/ro/ilandictis . .
jmUiris
pal(cocr]i«tallu*
Stichuxter albulns
Crogsastcr pappoxus
Solader endeca
fumfer
Ptcrastcr militaris
Ophwijliiplui Sarifii
rohufita
Sfinritzii
Ophiocten Kcrlceum
Ophiophdis hellix
Amphitira Ilolh'dlli
OpMacantha »p\\\uUmi
Aidrophyton arrticum ' . . .
Antedou Esc/iriclitii
celtica
■3
C
If
*
*
O
•c
The following were not obtained by this expedition
Cfenodiscits criKpotus.
C'licttmaria Ihjudmam-^C. KivrenW, Ltk.
Cklriulota biri'iK, Huxley, = J/]ynV)^?w/i«« liinhii, 8tp.
Gphiura glddalif, Forbes.
9
p
3
M
"A
*
*
•I*
This was dredged by Sir John Ross in 1818.
I i
mm
2'82
APPENDIX.
No. IX.
Of these twenty Greenland and Grinnell Land Eehino-
derms,
Fourteen are common to America and Europe ;
Three are known as American and not European ;
Two are known as European and not American ;
One now iirst recorded from Grinnell Land only.
Analysis similarly shows thpt fourteen out of the twenty
are Grinnell-Landic. And of these,
Eleven are common to America and Europe ;
Two are known as European and not American ;
One from Grinnell Land only.
Reasoning from present information, the writers are of
opinion that the character of the Echinifauna under con-
sideration is the effect of local modification acting upon a
great polar distribution rather than of intercontinental emi-
gration simply.
No. X.
POLYZOA.
283
rwK'
No. X.
FOLYZOA.
li
III
By George BasK, F.R.S.
The following lis<^. of the Polyzoa, collected on the late
Arctic Expedition in Smith Sound and northwards by
Captain H. W. Feilden, includes only about seventeen species.
All except three have already been described, and are well
known as higli northern or Arctic forms. The three, which,
so far as I am able to ascertain, appear to be new to science,
are a species of Flustra, a minute species of Eschara,
and a third supposed new species, belonging to the sub-
order Ctenostomata, represented unfortunately by such very
scanty and imperfect specimens, that I only venture to
propose it provisionally. And I may remark, witli respect
to some of the other forms, that the specimens are so covered
with diatoms of numerous species as to be very difficult of
examination. The collection is interesting, as perhaps
giving the highest latitude, 82°. 27' N., with which I am
acquainted from which a Polyzoon has been procured.
Full descriptions and figures of the new forms will be pub-
lished, if allowed, in the ' Proceedings of the Linnean Society.'
Suborder I. Cheilostomata. Bk.
P""am. 1. Gdlulariadcv. Bk.
Genus 1. Scrupocellaria. V. Ben.
1 . S. scahra, V. B. (sp.)
Syn. Cellnrinn scnbra, V, Ben. ' Bull. Briix.' tab. xv., p. 73, fifrs. rS-O.
„ Cellnlnrin scahra {forma tt/pica), Sniitt, 'Ofver S. Skaiid. Ilafs
Bryozoa,' 1807, pp. 283 and 314, tab. xvii. fips. 27-34.
fa
1&
m
"r'B^
•^s-
\m
m
H,' ' : ' ; 4
^
nil
284
APPENDIX.
No. X.
Syn. Celhtlann scnipea, Alder, * Trans. Tynes Field Oliih,' vol. iii. fiir. 148.
„ Sciiipocellaria sirupea, Bk. ' Quart. Journ. M. 8c.' iii. p. 254 (non
aliter).
„ Scrupocellnnu Dclilii, Alder, ib. N. Ser. iv. p. 107, pi. iv. figs. 4-8 ;
'i lik. 1. c. xii. p. Go, pi. xxii. ti<iS. 1-3.
„ ScrupoceUuria scabra, Norman, ' On Rare British Polyzoa,' ' Q. J. M.
S.' viii. p. 214 ; Ilincks., ' Polyzoa from Iceland and Labrador,' ' Ann.
N. Hist.' January 1H77, p. i)8.
„ ? Crisia DelUii, Andouin, • Savign.' pi. xii. fig. 3.
Hah. Franklin Pierce Bay. 79° 29' N. August 11, 1875,
13-15 fa oms. Stony bottom, H. W. F. ; Sir Edward
Belclier's ' Expedition ! ; ' Hamilton Inlet, Labrador, Wallicb ;
(lo ' vn Harbour, Disco, 5-20 fatboms, Norman ; Sabine
Isiaud, German ' Polar Expedition ' {teste Hincks) ; Parry's
Inland, Spitsbergen, 61-50 fatboms, Smitt; Britain, Nor-
miiu , Isortbumberland Coast, Alder; Coast of Belgium,
V. Ben.
Genus 2. Menipea, Lamx.
1. M. gracilis, mihi.
Char. Zooecia mucb elongated, subtubular downwards.
Aperture oval, border sligbtly tbickened ; usually a single
spine on tbe outer side above, and occasionally one on tbe
inner ; a broad arcbed gibbous entire operculum. Anterior
avicularium small, and only (?) on tbe median zooecium at a
bifurcation. ]\Iedian zooecium not mucronate ; five to nine
cells in an internodd. Polypide witb twelve tentacles.
Syn. Ci'lhdana ternnta {forma gmcilis), Smitt, 1. c. 1807, pp. 283-310,
pi. xvi. ligs. 17-20, 23, 24 {mn 21, 22), (excl. Synom.)
Hah. Franklin Pierce Bay, 79° 29' N., 13-15 fatboms,
H. W. F. ; Spitsbergen, 200 fatboms, Smitt.
Fam. 2. Bicellariad.e, Bk.
Gen. I. Bugula, Oken.
1, B. murrayana, Johnst, (sp.)
Syn. Flmfra miirrai/ana, .lohnst. ; Sars; Daniulscn ; Packard.
„ Flnbcllarin npiralis, Gray.
•^sftw*
■ m I
No. X.
POLYZOA.
285
Syn. Buffula tnurrai/am, 'Bvit. M. Cat.' p. 40, pi. lix., Smitt, 1. c. 1ACj7,
pp. 2i>l and UK, tab. xviii. figs. 10-27.
„ Avicclla multisphia, V. Ben.
Hub. Franklin Pierce Bay, 79° 29' N., H. W. F. ; Hunde
or Hunes Islands, Davis Strait, Dr. Sutherland; Holsteinborj,^
Harbour, Norman ; Iceland, Wallieh (teste Hincks. ) ; Orkney,
Lieutenant Thomas; Shetland, E. Forbe.s ; Dublin Coast,
W. McCalla.
2 B. ( ar. ? )fmticosa, Packard.
Syn. ? Cellularia quadndentata, Loven, JrS. 1834 {tenfe Smitt).
„ Butpila murrayana {forma qundnrlcnfata), Smitt, 1. c. pp. 202 e id
351 , tab. xviii. figs. 2o-27.
„ Mcnipea fruticosa, Packard, 'List of Labrador Animals,' p. 9. pi i
fig. 3. ^ V ^i-
Buf/ula 7>m)ra>/ana(var.fruticosa), Ilincks, I.e. p. 98; Norman.
* Valorous Dredgings.
Hab. Franklin Pierce Bay, 79° 29' N., H.W.F. ; Labrador,
Packard.
Fam. 3. Membraniporid.e.
Gen. 1. Membranipora.
1. M. unicornis, Alder.
Syn. M. unicornis, Alder, < Cat. Zooph. North, and Durham,' p. 50 pi.
viii. fig. 0. '
„ M. lineata {forma unicornis, ^/3. stadium font/ius adiUtutn), Smitt
1. c. pp. .305-399, pi. XX. figs. 30, 31. '
„ ? Reptoflustrella americana, D'Orbigny.
Ifab. Lat. 82° 27' N., H. W. F.; Hamilton Inlet, Labrador,
15 fathoms, Wallieh!; Spitsbergen, 6-50 fathoms, and
boreal and Arctic seas generally, Smitt ; Coasts of Northum-
berland and Durham, Alder.
F'am. 4. FLUSTRIDyE.
■ ■ ■ Gen. 1 . Flustra. •
1. Flustra serrulata, n. sp.
Char. Zoarium constituted of narrow, ligulate, bifurcated
branches slightly expanded at the ends ; zooucia ovoid or
™
III'
r M
ill
Jii = I
tff
mm
Mi
V'M
:«l
ill
iiillill
■2' i I I
mi
i :■'
28G
APPENDIX.
No. X.
oblong, open in tront except quite at the bottom, wliero
tliere is a very narrow calcareous expansion; border of
aperture finely serrated or beaded. OcBcia small, immersed.
Ilab. Franklin Pierce Bay, 1 3 fathoms, H. W. F.
Fam. 5. EsciiAitiDyE.
Gen. K Myriozoura, Donati.
1. M, coarctatum, Sars ("^p,)
Syn. Ci'llepora coarctat.a, Sars, * Reise Liif. Fiiini.' p. 28.
„ Lneschara {Leicscharia) cnarctata, id. * N. Norsk Polyz.' p. 17.
„ Myriozoum coarctatum and subgracilc, lliucks, 1. c. p. 100; Siuitt,
1. c. pp. 18 and 119.
„ MUhpora truncata, Fabricius, 'Faun. Grcenl.' p. 432 ; Packard, 1. c.
(teste Smitt).
„ ? Myriozoum suhgradle, D'Orb., * Pal. Franc' p. GG2.
„ Millepora truncata, (pars) Lamouroux ; Pallas.
Hah. (var. ouhgracile.) Franklin Pierce Bay, Smith
Sound, 1 3-1 5 lathoms, H. W. F. ; Arctic Sea, Sir E, lielcher's
* Expedition ! ; ' South Labrador, Packard ; Newfoundland,
D'Orb.; Spitsbergen, 19-80 fathoms, Smitt; Greenland,
MoUer and Torel, Holsteinborg Harbour, entrance of
Baffin's Bay, 175 fathoms; Norman, ' Valorous Dredgings;'
Iceland, 100 fathoms, Wallich {teste Hineks).
(Var. coarctatum.) Iceland, 100 fathoms, Wallich ! ;
Norway Strom, Sars, &c. ; Finmark, Loven, Sars.
Gen. 2. Eachara.
1. E, elegantula, D'Orb.
Syn. E. eleyantula, D'Orb. (1851), 'Pal. Franc' p. 102, Smitt, 1. c. 1807,
pp. 24 and 151, tab. xxvi. figs. 140-140, Norman, ' Valorous
Dredgings.'
„ E. sHccata, Bk. ' Ann. N. Hist.' Ser. 2, vol. xviii. p. 33, pi. i. fig. 1 ;
Sars, 1. c. 1802, p. 6.
Hah. Cape Napoleon, Cape Frazer, Franklin Pierce
Bay, H. W. F. ; Norway and Finland, McAndrew ; Spits-
No. X.
POLYZOA.
287
])orgen, Greenland, Finmark, SO-OO Mlioms, Torol, Lov^n,
Sars ; Newfoundland, D'Orb. ; Hare Island, Waigat Straits,
and Lat. 66° 59' N., 55° 27' \V., 57 fathoms, Norman
(' Valorous Dredgings').
2. E. perpusilla, n. sp.
Char. Zoarium diminutive, constituted of irregularly
forked branches rising from a short stem. Stem and lower
part of branches cylindrical, flattened towards the ends.
Zocecia fusiform, elongate ; mouth looking directly up-
wards (horizontal); anterior lip tridentate, the median
denticle wide and expanding, the lateral pointed, conical.
Immediately in front of the median denticle an avicularium
al)out half the length of the zocecium, with a circular man-
dible which opens upwards and backwards.
Hab. Franklin Pierce Bay, Smith Sound ; 13-15 fathoms,
H. W. F.
3. E. Sarm, Smitt. (sp.)
Syn. Escharoidea Sarsii, Smitt, 1. c. 1867, pp. 24 and 158, tab. xxvi. Al's
147-154. ^
„ Eschara rosacea, Sars, ' N. Norsk. Polyz.' p. 3 (non Busk).
„ Cellepora cervicornis (var.) Sars, ' Keise Lcif. Finm.' p. 28.
Hah. Franklin Pierce Bay, Smith Sound, 13 fathoms,
H. W. F. ; Spitsbergen, 20-60 fathoms, Smitt ; Greenland,
Moller and Torel ; Finmark, 80-100 fathoms, Sars &c. ;
Arctic Sea, Sir E. Belcher's * Expedition ; ' in lat. 74° 0' S.^
172° 0' E., 330 fathoms. Hooker, * Voyage of the "Erebus"
and "Terror."'!
Gen. 3. Hemeschara.
1. H. sincera, Smitt. (sp.) (var. inermis).
Syn. Discapora sincera {forma Hemeschara), Siuitt, 1. c. 18G7, pp. 28 and
177, tab. xxvii. figs. 178-180.
„ Lepralia {Discojwra) sincera, llincks, 1. c. p. 102.
Hab. Franklin Pierce Bay, Smith Sound, 13 fathoms
(on Cellepora cervicornis), U. W. F. ; Spitsbergen, 19-61
fathoms, Smitt; Finmark, Loven ; Arctic Sea? 100 fatiioms.
•41
4 i^ t)if R'itd
Mi
11
w
ill
■i I'
\i
I;.-'
288
APPENDIX.
No. X,
Wallieh!; Icolaiul, Wallicli {tmte HinckH) ; Han; Island,
Waigat Strait, entrance of Baffin's Bay, 175 fathoms,
Nonuan. , . .
Gen. 4. Lepralia, Johnst. (pars).
1. L. Lnndshorovii ? Jobnst.
Syn. L. Ltimlshororii, Jolinst. (pars); ? ' Brit. M. Cat.' p. 00, pi. Ixxxvi. fifj.
„ 1. Unriirc/ht Lamhhorovii (forma fijpivd), Smitt, 1. c. lH07, pp. J2 and
04, tab. xxiv. fi;,'H. 00-02 (nou cetera).
Ildh. Cape Frazer, 80 fathoms, H. W. F". (on worm tube) ;
Spitsbergen, Smith ; Greonhmd, Copenhagen iSluseum {testa
Smitt).
. Fam. 6. CELLEroniDyE.
Gen. 1. Cellepora, Fabr.
1. C, cervicornisy niilii (? Couch).
Syn. Ccllppora cerv{co)Tii8, Bk. * Ann. N. Hist.' Ser. 2, vol. xviii. p. '32,
pi. i. ii|,'. 1.
„ Cdlepora piunicosa, Sars, * Reise L(3f. Fimu. ; ' Danielssuu {teste
Smitt).
„ Celleporaria incrassata, ^xn\ii,\. c. 1807, pp. 33 and 198, tab. xviii.
figs. 212-210; D'Orb. (pars) (non Lamarck). ,.
„ Celleporana mrcularis, Packard {teste Smitt).
„ ? Cellepora coronupus, S. AN'ood, ' Cray Polyzoa,' p. 57, pi. ix. figs. 1-3.
„ „ incrassttta, Ilincks, 1. c. p. 105.
Ilah. Cape Napoleon, Cape Frazer, H. W. F. ; Norway
and Finmark, McAndrew, Loven, &c. ; Spitsbergen and
Greenland (very abundant), 16-160 fathoms (clay and stone).
Smith ; Newfoundland, D'Orb. ; Crag (fossil), S. Wood ; in
lat. 66° 59' N. Ion. 55° 27' W. 57 fathoms Norman.
Sdbokder II. Cyclostomata.
Fam. 1. DiASToroRiD^R (Bk. 'Brit. N. Cat.' Part iii. p. 27).
Gen. 1. Mesenteripora. Blainv.
1. M. meandrinn ? S. Wood (sp.)
Syn. Dinstoperri meaiulrina, S. Wood, ' Ann. Nat. Hist.' xiii. p. 14.
„ Mesenteripora meandrinn, Bk. 'Crag Polyzoa,' p. lO'.t, pi. xvii.
„ fig. 2; xviii. tig. 4; xx. tig. 2, Suiitt, 1. c. ISGO, pp. 398 and 432.
No. X
Svn. :
I'OLYZOA.
2 SI)
„ EiulmaiKi, yi. I'Mw., ' Siir Ics Cri-iit's,' \r. jil. xiv. ti;.'. ] .
,, y ,. coiii/ircK.Hd, n'Orl). 1, c. p. 7')*>.
,, Y Dihuid cniiipri'Mud, I fii^'iMioii, ' IJrvo/. .Maa.-^tr.' p. ■">(), jil. iv. ti;r. lO.
lldh. Friiiiklin Pierce Hay, Aiinjust 10, 1H7'>; 1 ')
fiitliom?, H. VV. F. ; (ireenland, 1(1-40 f:irli(.m>, Torel ;
? Coralline Crag- (foi^sil), 8. Woud.
Gen. 2. Tahiil'ipora.
1. 7'. rcii/ricDXd, \i]<.
Syii. Tubiilijwra ri'tifricosit, ]}k. ' (^. .lourn. M. Sc' iii. p. 2")(», pi. ii. ti<rs.
.'J-4; 'JJrit. .>r. Cat.' part iii, p. I'fi ; pi. xxxii. ti<:. 4 (s\ino tiirurt').
„ ,, (siibiromiM J'rohostiitu) iiu-rumita (var. and foniia
I'ircfa), Siiiilt. 1. c. 18(Jn, p. 4(L', tali. v. Ii;;. 4.
H(d). Franklin Pierce Hay, August 11, 1S7'), 1.3-1
fathoms, H. W. F. : Greonland (on P'ncus), Dr. Sutherland.
i
iilj
11
■-..■is
19
il
f'l<1(l
If
SuBonDEu III. Ctknostomata.
Fani. 1. VESif;uL.\uiAi).K.
Gen. 1 . Fdveila, Ehrenberg-.
] . F. arctica, n. sp. ?
Char. Zooecia in opposite pairs at very distant intervals,
Zooecia, larj^est 0- 06 x 0-013.
Hah. Franklin Pierce Bay, Auoust 11, 1875. H. W. F.
The Ctenostomata are represented by this single species
parasitic upon Biigulafrvtlcosa. The specimens, however,
are so few, and so much injmed and overgrown by diatoms,
that it is with considerable difficulty that I ha- ^ n:en able
to make out even the scanty diagnosis given above, which
must be regarded as provisional. The zooecia are very large,
reaching apparently an extreme length of 0'12-13 inch by
0.0() inch in diameter. The Polypides have about twelve
tentacles and no gizzard, so far as appears in tlie bad state
of the specimens.
VOL. II.
U
II
r!.\
'Hrll
ill
2UU
.vrpuNuix.
No. M.
' i
:\ "1
'' i
J:Jiii;
' t
No. xr.
JlYDJiOZOA.
m rrRoudR .T. Arj.MAN, ISf.D., LL.D., F.H.S., rrc
TiTR clogfaut Ht.tl(» medusii horo described was iakcn in the
tovvin^-nefc by Captain Feilden in lat. 81° 44' N. It is re-
V\ix. 1. Liitcrcal vi(;w ; iiingiiilicd.
PTYCHOOASTUIA WIAUIS.
nuirkable among liydroid mediisir by its lobod umbrella-
margin, wbi<;]i tbus prcs(>nts a character belonging to the
A
Ni». XI.
JIVIH!()/(>A.
•J!»l
in tlie
(liHcoidKtnuis nitlicr tlimi to tin- liydinid niPilusir, wliilc ihc
folds, with their thifkciu-il, cN.iivuhitcd, imd ;;liiiiil-lik<- iii;iii;iii,
which run |oii<;iludiiiiillv aloiii'- thr iiii'tT viiitiu'c of the
I'ij;. 'J. I'](]iiiiti)i'iiil projection, magnified. Tliis view is from lieiowtlirmiHli tiio
wiilely open moutli,aii(l shows the ennvdliited edges of tho eigiit longitii(liii;il
gastric folds.
'1' ''I
Nat iiral .■■ize.
manubrium, constitute a veiy exceptional and striking cha-
racter.
The marginal lobes of the umbrella are in the form of
short truncated cones, each carrying several papilliform and
u 2
11
m
m\
202
APPENDIX.
No. XI
fti' '■' ■
i i I
probably extensile processes, and separated from its neighbour
by a deep notch. The condition of the specimen, whose
transparency was lost by its preservation in alcohol, rendered
it impossible to determine anything regarding lithocysts,
while my unwillingness to destroy a imique specimen has
rendered the determination of some other points of structure
not so complete as I could have wished. Each tentacle
corresponds to one of the notches which separate the marginal
lobes. The tentacles are manifestly very extensile, but are
easily detached, and had mostly fallen from the specimen.
They have the cavity divided into chambers by close septa,
and show a very distinct longitudinal fibrillation of thei?
walls. Tlie velum is wide and strong. The eight radiating
canals with their large oval reproductive sacs are very distinct,
but the circular canal, in consequence of the opaque con-
dition of the specimen, was but faintly indicated.
The specimen appears to be a male.
There can be little doubt that Ptychogastria polaris is
the planoblast of some hydroid trophosome as yet unknown.
Ptvciiogastuia.
Gen. Char. Umb.lla hemispherical, with lobed margin
and filiform tentacles ; lithocysts ? ; velum broad ; manu-
brium short and wide, carrying a wide mouth with quadran-
gular lip ; inner walls of manubrium tlirown into eight longi-
tudinal folds, along whose free edge runs a thick convoluted
gland-like chord ; radiating canals, eight ; reproductive sacs
oval, large, developed near the middle point of each radiating
canal.
Ptychogastria polaris.
Umbella about half an inch in diameter : marjrinal
tentacles numerous (32 ?)
Captured in Discovery Bay. Captain Feilden,
No. XII,
S1'0N(U1).\.
21)3
i I
No. xir.
spongida:
Hv H. J. Carter, F.R.S., etc.
Thr collection of Sponges brought from Smith Sound by
the Arctic Expedition of 1875-6 consists of five species, one of
which, viz. the following, has hitherto not been described.
No. 1. Semlsuberites arctlca, n. sp.
General form funnel-shaped, hollow, with a long round
stem, diminishing in size to the point of attachment ; mouth
su])circular, margin tliick, round, undulating. Colour light
grey. Surface reticulate, even. Pores external, micro-
scopic ; vents internal, large, plentifully and imiformly
scattered over the inner surface of the funnel. Internal
structure loose, light, composed of acuate spicules united
together by sarcode into bundles which, crossing each other,
produce the usual areolated tissue of sponge. Spicules of
one kind only, viz. skeleton, but of two forms, viz. — 1, acuate,
slightly curved towards the large end, smooth, and gradually
diminishing towards the smaller one, which is rather abruptly
pointed; average largest size -/jjth by aVo-o^h incli in its
greatest diameters : 2, the same, but with a slight subterminal
inflation. Size of largest specimen about 3 inches long by
If inch across the brim of the funnel.
Hab. Marine, Arctic regions. Growing singly or in
plurality on hard objects.
Loc. Smith Sound, Cape Napoleon, in aO fathoms.
Oks. There is much interest attaching to this sponge in
' Abridged from 'Ann. and Ma^. Nat. Hist.' 1877, })i). 38-42.
'•"If
Mtk'
294
Al'PICNDIX.
No. XII.
i ^lil
-m
miuiy \VH)s. First it is almost identical in elementary struc-
ture with HaUchondria aaufjulnea, Johnston (' Hrit. 8pong,'
184*2, p. 133), originally described, with a fifjfure of its
spicule, by Dr. Grant in 182G, under the name of Spourjla
sanr/uinea ('Edinb. Phil. Journ.' pi. cxxi., fig. 9), which,
together with his Sp. papillaris, are the two commonest
sponges on this coast (Hudleigh-Salterton, Devon), where
they can be found at all tides in grea jundance a little
below high-water mark. Secondly, Dr. Luvverbank, from the
orange colour and cork-like tissue o{ Hallckondria saiKjidnea,
the tendency of its spicules to a pin-like form, and tlie fact
that, in one instance, he found the identical form of flesh-
s'picule which characterises Vloa JohnstoiilU Sdt., and (as I
hope soon to sliow) several other sponges of this kind (' Brit.
Spong.,' vol. i. pi. iii. fig. 72, p. 239), points out that both
iSeinisuherites arcfica and Ildlichondr'ia sanguiriea belong
to the family Siiberitida, of whicli I also hope soon to give a
full account with all liitlierto described species in its different
groups. Thirdly, a similar specimen of the same sponge, but
much larger, from Spitsl ergen, was presented to the British
Museum by the Rev. A. E. Eaton in 1873.
ii U
^: M
No. 2. Hallchondvia panlcea, Johnston.
With larger spicides than those of tlie common British
species, and histodermal coat like that of the deep-sea
(Atlantic) form.
No8. 3, 4, aud 5. Sijcon raphnnus, Sdt,, Ute glabra, Sdt., and Lcucosu-
lenia coriacca, Uk. These three are calcareous sponges.
In the mounted sand taken from the jar which contained
Seinisiiberites aret'tca are also present the remains of many
other sponges, viz. the perfected flesh-spicule of Melonanchora
eUlptlca (' Ann.' 18/4, vol. xiv. p. 212, pi. xiii. fig. 9), the
larger spicule of Cortlchiin. (dnjuxl (ib. 1873, vol. xii. p. 18,
pi. i. figs. 3-5), also large biliamates (//6*t?a'), probably of
an Esperia, and many otlier s|)icult'S whose forms, althougii
different, do not characteris(> any sponge in particular.
No. XIII.
FORAMINIFEIJA.
295
m
mi
No. XIII.
ItmZOrOhA litJTICULAlilA.
FOKAMINIFERA.
By Henry 13. Brady, F.R.S., F.L.S.
About fifty sairiples of material were pre.served, to be
examined for iSIicrozoa and jNlicrophyta. These were for the
most part sonadings in depths of from 10 to 2G0 fathoms,
dust from ice-hiniimoeks, or mnd from beds of ghieial deposit
of greater or less age. The Ehizopod-fauna of the mud-))eds
requires no separate treatment, as it is praetieally identical
with that of the present sea-bottom of the same latitudes.
Many of the soundings were exceedingly small in quantity,
and after the washing required to rid them of impali)a])le
inorganic matter left scarcely any residue, but of the entire
number about forty furnished suflficient specimens to give a
general, if not an exhaustive, idea of their constituent
organisms. In st)me cases the close proxinuty of several
soundings, and their similar depth, permitted the treatment
of two or three together, or at least the incorporation of the
results in one list, and in a few instances the ipumtity of
material was not sufficient to show ade([uately tht' nature of
tile sea-bottom; but after condensation as describeil, and the
omission of those furnishing defective data, there remained
sufficient basis for the construction of a distribution-table
comprising twenty-four localities. The table represents faiily
the salient features of the Foraminifera-fauna of an area,
lying betvveeki tlie entrance of .Smith JSoimd in hit. 73° N. f)r
tliereabou'cS and the most northerly point attained by the
:•;'{ Ul
I
296
APPENDIX.
No. Xlll.
ri-. 'I
Expedition, namely hit. 8.3° 19' N. Tliis, considering the few
opportunities for somuHn<>', and the difticidtie.s luider whieh
material was obtained, may be regarded as very satisfactory —
tlie more so heeause wliateviT facts are derived from specimens
procured between the latitudes named are distinct accessions
to our knowledge, no previous observations of the same sort
having extended even to the southern limit. It is not
proposed in this place to do more than give a list of species,
and to make a few remarks on the general aspect of the
fauna ; technical details are better suited for publication
elsewhere.
Our knowledge; of Arctic Khizopoda is chiefly derived
from the researches of Professors W. K. Parker and T.
Kupert Jones, and of tht^ Rev. A. M. Norman. The memoir
of Messrs. Parker and Jones in the ' Philosophical Trans-
actions' for 1865 forms the text-book of the subject. It
comprises the results of the examination of the soundings
taken by Sir E. Parry in Baflftn's Bay, between latitudes 74° 45',
and 7()° 30' N., of those by Dr. Sutherland off the Hunde
Islands, Davis Straits, in lat. (58° 50' N., and of dredgings
made by Mr. jNIacAndrew off the coast of Norway between
lat. (55° and 71° N. Mr. Norman's investigations are founded
upon the dredgings brought home by Dr. J. (xwyn Jeffreys
from the cruise of the ' Valorous,' and a summary of them
forms one section of the Report published in the ' Proceedings
of the Royal Society' for 1876. In the same Report Dr.
Carpenter also adds a few general observations on some of the
larger forms of ^'oraminifera. Six of the dredgings brought
home in the ' Valorous ' were from within the Arctic Circle,
the most northerly being a))oiit lat. 70° N.
Thus it will be seen that the area end)ract'd by the
soundings whieh form the subject of the present notice
stretches nearly seven degrees further north than any hitherto
examined — in point of fact, it covers about half the distance
between the highest latitude of Sir E. Parry's series and the
actual North Pole. The following is (he list of tlu; For-
aminifera whieh have been obtained : —
No. XIII.
I'OIIAMINIFEILV.
297
1^
Coriiuspini follacea, Phil.
# „ involve)is, lit'iiss.
# Trllucidlna tricarinata, D'Orb.
# Qulnqiudoculina seimrnihtm, Liniie.
„ Huhroimuld, jMuntag.
Lituola fuslfornds. Will.
ticorpiurus, Montibrt.
canavieims^ D'Orb.
(jlomerata, no v.
Hyperammina elongata, nov. gen. et sp.
Lagcna globosa, Montag.
„ Icevis, Montag.
tiutrgin(Ua, Montag.
apiculata, Keuss.
sulcata, W. and J.
striata, D'Orb.
caudata, D'Orb.
strlatopii iictata, P. and J.
melo, D'Orb.
„ squamosa, jNIontag.
GlanduUna Iwvigata, D'Orb.
Dentalina communis, D'Orb.
„ pauperata, D'Orb.
Cristellaria rotulata, Laiuk.
Polyviorphina lactea, W. and J.
„ compressa, D'Orb.
99
9»
»
problema, D'Orb.
aciiviinata, D'Orb.
„ votuiulata, Hurneni.
SpiriUlna vivlpara, Ehrb.
(jlobiger-lna, ImUoldes, D'Orb.
„ infl(da, D'Orb.
Uvlgerina pygmcea, D'Orl). (var.)
Cassldidina Iwvigata, D'Orb.
,, crassa, D'Orb.
Jiidimhia ou<da, D'Orb.
Jiuliiitiiia elegautlssima, D"()rl).
!Sll
mim
IF'
mw: m
V. ;!
*■
I
I
'!:' i
\l r
"Ih
u 'f^^
Kii''- : .•*:
•■.',M-
'tif
208 APPENDIX. No. XIII.
Vlrgulina Schrelhersli, Czjzok.
Bollvlna punctata^ D'Orb.
Textularia biforinia, P. and J.
VenieuUina polystropha, Keuss.
DiHCorhina obtusa, D'Orb.
* I'runcatuliiui lobatula, W. and J.
* Pidvlnuliua Karsteiti^ Reiiss.
„ Michelhdmui, DTJrb.
* Patellina corru(/ata. Will.
* Xonionina scapha, F. and M.
,, umbilicatula, Montag.
„ depressula, W. and J.
„ stelligera, D'Orb.
Polystomella arctica, P. and J.
„ stridtopunctata^ F. and M.
The list comprises fifty-two species, and a few doubtful
specimens remain which may increase the number by one or
two. Messrs. Parker and Jones, in their list of Arctic forms
give a total of seventy-five, but of these twenty are recorded
from the Norwegian coast only, leaving fifty-five for Baffin's
Buy south of Smith Sound and Davis Straits. There is fair
groimd, therefore, for supposing that the number of sjjecies
of Foraminifera does not suffer any considerable diminution
northwards from the Arctic Circle. The species, fifteen in
number, marked with an asterisk, in the foregoing table, are
those which were found in the sounding made in lat. 83"^ 19'
N. at a depth of 7 1 fathoms, and are, except a few Radiolaria,
the unique representatives of the fauna of the sea-bottom at
the highest latitude yet attained by explorers. The greatest
variety of forms from any single Arctic locality is furnished
by mud from 80 fathoms olf Cape Frazer, which gives a list
of thirty-two species. As already stated, it is not to be
supposed that material so limited in quantity has fiu-nished
auything like complete details of the fauna ; it may never-
theless be of interest to compare the list above enumerated
with the columns referring to Baffin's Bay and Davis Straits
'''^4
No. XIII.
rOLYCYSTINA.
211")
in Messrs. Parker and Jones's ta))le. It will then be seen
that thirty-six of the species are comnion to both areas, and
that the remainders contain many nearly related f(L)rms, which
further opportmiity may probably show to have a distri-
bution extending more or less northwards or southwards, as
the case may be.
Two new, or rather undescribed, species have been
mentioned ; of these detailed descriptions will appear else-
where. One of them, Lituola glonieratd, is of minute siz*',
not much exceeding jJ^^^ of an inch in diameter, and spiral
or nautiloid in mode of growth. It has a thin, arenaceous,
non-labyrinthie test, nearly spherical in contour, the longer
diameter being often in the direction of the axis, and consists
of a few long, narrow, slightly ventricose segments. It can
scarcely be said to be new, for it occurs in more than one of
the ' Challenger ' dredgings, but it has not hitherto been
described or named.
The other, for which the generic term Hyjjeramrniiut
{vTrspos, a pestle, and afifios, sand) has been adopted, is one
of the arenaceous types probably first recognized in the
' Porcupine' dredgings from the North Atlantic in 1869, but
since found in many parts of the world. Its form is that t>f a
club, or still more nearly that of a pestle, and it consists of a
straight sandy tube with one end rounded and closed, gradu-
ally tapering towards the other extremity, which foruis the
aperture. The Arctic examples are small, none being
more than a tenth of an inch in length, but under favourable
conditions specimens are met with many times as large.
The effects of climate, direct or indirect, are noticeable in
the modification of form assumed by some of the species,
which occur over considerable range of latitude. The Arctic
specimens of such species are often dwarfed and usually more
compactly built than those obtained in more southern areas.
NoiE. — Whilst working out the Foraminifera of tlie various samples
of material from the soa-bottoiu, any Polycystina that wen- found were
carefully preserved. They were only noticed in seven of the soundings,
P
ill||
II!
iiii"
1: i'll
m
;■/■ )■•
:100
APPENDIX.
No. xrii.
and the specimens were for the most part few in number, and presented
no fxreat variety of form. An exception, however, must be made in the
case of tiie most nortiierly soundinjjr (hit. 8ii° 1!)' N.), which, taking' into
account the very small quantity of material, yielded a con.>;iderable series.
The species of Radiolaria have not been determined, but the following'
is a list of the more prominent jjeucra represented : — Dirtyopodiam,
lldliommu, Tdrapjih, Ilcliodiscus, Acfiiiommn, Spoiitjodiscm, Spont/o-
froc/itis, Sj)oni/ftsf('r, Tri'mntodiscHU, and Each if on in. — II. H. li.
V:- - ■■. ^.;
■'
':4
\ .■
■^ :,!.<■:
i
xiri.
No XIV.
HOT.VNY.
301
Ifr'
III
No. XIV.
BOTANY.
By Sir Joseph D. Hooker, C.B., K.C.S.I.,
President Royal Society.
With Lists op Flowering Plants, by Professor D. Oliver; Jlrsci, liy
W. Mitten ; Fungi, by Kev. W. J. Berkeley ; Alg.e and Diatoma-
CE.K, by Professor GeorjiC Dickie.
TiiR very excellent collections of flowering- plants and ferns
brouo-lit by Captain Feilden and Mr. Hart from lat. 80°-83°
North, along the shores of Kennedy Channel, Hall Basin,
and Robeson Channel, and particidarly from the N.E. part of
Grinnell Land, have been examined and named by Professor
Oliver, by comparison v,'ith the Arctic collections at Kew.
They prove that the vegetation of this meridian of tlie Polar
area is entirely Greenlandic, showing no further relationship
than does Grreenland itself to the floras of the American
Polar islands to the west of it and of Spitsbergen to the east
of it. In other words, it possesses Grreenland plants that are
wanting in either or in both of these localities, and wants
plants that either or both of these regions possess, but which
are absent in Greenland.
In my essay on the ' Outlines of the Distribution of Arctic
Plants,' ' I have shown that the Greenland flora was in origin
essentially a European one; but owing to causes which I
have there attempted to explain, it has lost some of its Euro-
pean characteristics, and acquired others, of which some few
^ ' Trans. Linn. Soc.,' xxiii. 'Jol.
^'■<li.' nil
mm
I ii
I
II'
rllll
iHii;'
i'M
'Ii I
''I I
llfil; I
302
AIM'EN'DIX.
No. XIV.
:; Ki
^■^
h^
are derived from America and others are peculiar to itself ;
and that under tliia latter point of view it should he regarded
as a suhdivision of the European flora, find when discussing
questions of Arctic distribution he called Greenlandic.
No fewer than sixty-nine identifiable flowering plants
and ferns, and about six more, in too imperfect a condition
to be named accurately, have been brought by the Polar
Expedition from the latitudes mentioned above (besidei^
nearly as many more from the (frecmland coast south of it);
a consideralily larger number (ten) than have rewarded the
researches of the various explorers of Melville Island (con-
taining about sixty), situated 5° further south, and in a
much milder climate ; and only twenty-three less than are
found in Spitsbergen (containing about ninety '), which li(^s
wholly to the south of lat. 80°, is a much larger area, is
washed on its west coast by the comparatively warm Gulf
Stream, and has been explored by trained botanists.
The elements of the Flora may be thus expressed : —
1. Spitsbergen species . . . . . .49
2. Melville Island . 41
3. Greenland species not found either in Spitsbergen or
Melville Island 12
4. Species not found in Greenland, Spitzbergen, or
Melville Island ....... 2
I. The species not found in Spitsbergen are :
Vesicaria urctica .
CfielranfJuts p}/r/mmufi
ArP)i(irl,a f/rmtddudica
Saxifrarja trie tisjj U lata
Greenland and E. Arctic America
Do.
Epiloh ium lat Ifol in m
Do. and Mts. of E. U. States.
Melville Island and Arctic Ame-
rica generally.
Do. and Northern Regions gene-
rally.
WSSMfi^
' 'Maliugren in Ofver.s af K. Vol. Akad. Forh.' 1802, pp. 220-268;
translated in Seeinann's 'Journal of Botany,' 18G4, pp. l.'U) and 102. A
few additions liave subsequently been made.
12
2
No. XIV.
AuteniKiria alpiiia
Erir/eron coinjHmtuK
Vufx-iulitm ullfj'moHu m
Pedicular'iH lajrpoH ira
,9 cap'ddfii
Amlrosace Hepteidrloi)
alls
Sdlix ardint
Lnzula aimppufrlfi, var.
eoiigmfa
HOTAXY.
m?.
Melville Island and Northern
Ki'jiCions ^^enerally.
Arctic and Alpine \. America.
X. Temp, and Arctic Kcfrions.
N. Temp, and Arctic Ke<,Mons.
Arctic America, only to 72° N.
N. Temp, and Arctic Kegions
ffenei-ally, but not beyond
72° N.
Arctic America and Greenland.
Temp, and Arctic Regions gene-
rally.
Do.
j»
»»
Carex rif/ida
„ holimfomn [?] (^(d-
P'X'^^) • ' . Arctic Europe and E. America.
„ sfam((iquatUis). N. Temp, and Arctic Regions
generally.
Desckampsia ccenpitosa . E. Greenland " and Arctic and
Temp. Regions.
Col podium latlfoUuiu . Arctic Regions generally.
Woodsla ilvensk . . N. Temp, and Arctic Reirions
generally.
Of these the first three are peculiar to Greenland except
the Arpuaria, which is also found in the mountains of the
Eastern United Slates.
IT. The species not foimd in Melville Island are :—
Braya alpina . . Spitsbergen and all Arctic Re-
gions.
Vesicarla arctlca . . Greenland and E. Arctic America.
Cardamine pratensis . Spitsbergen and N. Temp, and
Arctic Region.s.
Gheiranihus pyr/mcm-s . Greenland and E. Arctic America.
DrahahlHa . . . Spitsbergen and Arctic and N.*
Alpine Regions.
I 41
,ir.
Pi
1' I
Il,"-^ll^
n
3()i
„ alp'ma
Ari'iKti'ld (/I'd'iilainrh'ii.
St I'll aria kurii'ifuxa
Erli/rnni a/pliHin .
,, caiiijjonlhix
Vacchi I inn i'ft(ji no.s am
Camlope tetvafjoaa
Pedlndaris oapitata
„ la.ppotiica
A iidrosaa' toyteutrioii-
ads .
MM'KNDIX.
No. XIV.
Spitsbcr^^cn and Arctic and N.
Alpine Kcj^ions.
Do. „ „
l3t). „ .,
(ircenland and K. V. States
.Mountains.
Spitsbcrj^cn and all Arctic Hc-
^nons.
Do. „ „
Confined to Arctic und Alpine
N. America.
N. Temp, and Arctic Ke^ions.
Do. „ „
Not in Greenland, but in Arctic
America und Asia.
N. Temp, and Arctic Regions.
Lnzula cainjjpstrls var.
Cavpx nariUna
,. rlffida
„ holot^foiua [?]
11
11
Not in (freenland, but in tbe
N. Temp, and Arctic Regions
generally.
N. Temp, and Arctic Regions.
Spitsbergen „
N. Temp. .,
Temp. Arctic Regions.
Glycei'la itiar'iti/iiia var. . Spitsl)ergen and Arctic Regions.
Eqiilseturn varlefjatum . Do. „ various Arctic
and Temp. Regions.
Spitsbergen and N. Temp, and
Arctic Regions. .
Do.
N. Temp.
Spitsbergen ; Arctic Eun^e
and E. Aui> rica.
Do.
a')'vense
Lycopodiiun Sclar/o
Woodsla ilvoisii^ .
hyperhorea
11
11
11
CyHtopteris fra<i'di i<
n
III. The Greenland species found neither in Spitsbergen
nor Melville Lsland are: —
noTANV
.".O'l
;)
Kast Ai( tic Aincricn.
Do. „
Alotintaiiis of K. l'. Stales.
Mast Arctic America and Kocky
jMountains.
N. Tciiip. and Arctic Kcfj^ions.
Do.
)*
»»
Do.
n
>»
Do.
»
»
Do.
»»
»»
Do.
»
n
No. XIV.
Vi'slitirid avcl'icd .
Llii'trdnllivs iii/f/'iini IIS ,
Ai'i'iiarld iiiiiiiUuidicii .
ErUjerou ntUi^xiHUuH
Vitcchii ii'iii III!;/! iKiKii III .
Pedlcuhtris liijijuniii'ii .
Luzidii, cdiii Ill's! I'ls var.
coiiffi'shi .
Carex rlifidit .
„ liulosfoiiiii [?]
Woods I (I lire II sis .
IV. Tlic. species of i)lants found in lal S()''-H.'i', l.ut wliich
do not occur in Sj>i(s])erfi[en, Mt.'lville Island, or Cireenland,
arc Aiidrosiiri' siqjfi'idr!i»ii(dls, an Arctic ])lant and native
also of the cold Alpine regions of llie New and Old World,
bi:t which finds its northern limit elsewhere in 72° on the
south shores of the Polar islands opposite the American
coast; and Pedlni litris capdida, n ]n-,mtihi\ lAaut contined
to Arctic Asia and America, l)ut not hitherto found north of
Port Kennedy in lat. 72°. The recurrence and the abun-
dance of these two plants in the extreme latitudes visited by
the Expedition are very singular facts. To these plants
mig'ht also be added the JJi'schiinrp'^iti cct'spdosa^ which,
though so con\mon a plant of the Temperate Zone and the
Arctic lieoions c'enerallv, is found nowhere either in Tem-
perate or Arctic Greenland, except on its east coast ; a
peculiarity which it shart s with Ranuiuudus ijl(ic!(dis,
Soxifruf/a Hircidus, ^S. Iiier<( el folio, and others, all of
which are either unknown in W. Greenland or are very
rare there.
Of seventy-three high Arctic plants — namely, such as
reach the north coast of the Spitsbergen Group (lat. 80° to
80° 40') — Malmgrcn cites thirteen as not foimd elsewheri!
in those islands; and of these he remarks that they establish
a relationship with the Polar island tlora, v bile the rest
VOL. II.
X
t!i|
,!lllK* ''■]
r:'ir
\m
ipi
'W
iJ l
300
APPENDIX.
No. XIV.
(jf the polar Spit8})er<;en floni is essentially Greenlandic and
European. Of these thirteen the foUowino- only were found
by our Polar Expedition in the lat, 80° to 83° : —
Car ex nardina.
Foa abbvp-vUvfa.
Fentuca ovlna \ar. brnufolld.
The Aretie plants common in Spitsberoen and Melville
Island, anfl which hence mi<>ht have been expected to ocem*
in lat. 80° to 83°, but do not, are—
G. Ranunculus aurieomus.
G. „ 'pygmwus.
Parrya arctlca.
G. Dvdha aiulrosiU'Pa.
Pofeui'dla frlgidd.
G. Saxifraga dellarls.
Hlrciihis (East Greenland only).
G. Cki'ys<)Hple.)uani alfprulfolium.
Nardomm(ifrl(/l(l((.
G. Campanula nu'i flora.
Sallx pohivh.
G. Dupoidldj Finlun't,
Of these the seven with a Cf prefixed are also Greenlandic,
and hence their absence fro;., the lii^her latitudes visited by
the Polar Expedition may be attributed to cold or other
climatic causes ; and the other hve not l»ein<>; Greenlandic
(except one found only in E. Greenland), their occurrence
was not to be ey^ected in the rej^ions under consideration.
Of Melville Island plants fouud neither in lat. 80° to 83°,
nor in S{)itsbergen, are : —
C(dtha palustris.*
A sh 'agalus alp i nn .s. *
Oxytntpls V ndciisis.*
tSicversUt Rot^sll.
Scnceio 'pidustris.*
Plpuvopogon Sahlnii.
No. XIV.
]}OTANY.
807
It is noteworthy that not one of these is a (Greenland
pLant, though all those marked with an asterisk inhabit
Arctic Regions in Enrope. The absence of all Lcgiiihliiosct' ia
Spitsbergen and in (ireenland (except two teni[)erate species
in the sonth of that peninsula) is a most singular fact. The
collection has been searched in vain for any specimen of the
remarkable and beautiful little ^^nx^ti Pli'iirojjof/on Sahiiiil,
the sole represent'itiv'* of the only genus pecidiar to the
Arctic regions, and whi'jh.has >)een found nowhere Vmt in
Melville Island and its innnediate neiuhbourh'uxl. It still
holds its place as the rarest and most inaccessible of known
flowering plants.
The proportion of ^Nloncx'otyledfms to Dicotyledons in hit.
80° to 83° is 20 to 49 = 1 : 2-45, which is nearly that of Arctic
Europe flowering plants as given in my essay, namely, 1 : 2'3 ;
while that of tlie plants of all Greenland is 1 : 2*1.
The proportion of genera to species is 42 : 69=1 : 1*7,
that for Arctic Europe being 1 : 2*3, and for all Greeidand
1 : 2*0. This diminution of genera in proportion to speckles
with the dwindling- flora is quite normal.
It remains to add that the flora of 80° to 83* proves that
vegetation may be expected up to the Pole in this longitude
— though probably not in all, the contrast between the vege-
tation of hit. 80^ to 83° in (Jrinnell Island and JManz Josef's
Land, in the same hititudi', being most striking in res[)ect of
nmnber and variety of |)lants. Here there is a swaid coverings
a deep layer of vegetal )le matter exhibiting a brilliant assem-
blage of gay-coloured flowers, the ri'sort of butterflies and
bees ; in Franz Josef's Land vegi'tation exists only in raic
and isolated patches. Such dissimilarities were not antici-
pated in islands ()ccu[)ying so very small an aiva ;is the I'olar
N. of 80°, and on the supposed extreme limits of vegetation.
The northward extension of the Greenlandic flora s(j near
the Pole, and the retention of its characteristics as distin-
guished from the Spitsbergen and Polar Island floras, indi-
cate that the distribution oi" plants in tlie Arctic regions has
been meridional, and that tne subseijuent spri-ad of the
1
■■>f '
'It
1*1 Hi
|-|
i;!
HI
308
APPENDIX.
No. XIV.
1;.:
species in latitude lias, for some unknown reason, been
restrieti'd, and has not been sufficient to obliterate th(; evi-
rlence of tliis prior direction of migration.
The comparative richness of the flora from 80° to 83°, taken
especially in connection with that oi Smith Soimd, in lat.
78° to 80°, which contains many Suliarctic plants, indicates
some peculiarity of climate or otlier condition in this lonoi-
tude that favours the northern spn^ad of vegetation in this
more than in any other Arctic longitude. Thus in Smith
Sound there have; been gathered : —
A (chmillla vabidvis,
Pyrola graiidijiora.
Bartsla alphia.
xh'invrUi vuhjarls.
Tojipldia palastvis,
IIier<Khloe borfuUs, and
Lycojjudhiiii (tnnotiini III.
None of them high Arctic plants in other longitudes, though
all of them except the Hlevocldoe are natives of Greenland.
These facts seem to indicate that vegetation may be
more abimdant in the interior of Greenland than is supposed,
and that the glacier-V)ound coast-ranges of that country may
protect a compaiatively fertile interior. And to this view
the altitudinal distril)ution of vegetation in (irinnell Land
lends sujtport : thin'e, where the laud is only hilly, flowering-
plants ascend on unsnowed slopes that dip down to the sea
from 1,000 feet '.'levation ; showing that it is to the presence
of lofty mountains on tlie Greenland coast, and not to its
latitude, that its ice-bound shores are due. Thus, too, the
abundance of animal life met with between 80° and 83° may
l)e accounted for. liarely sufficient pasture is found along
the shores of Giinnell Land during winter for the support of
nuisk-oxen, and from what we know of the vegetation of the
Polar Islands to tlu' westward, they are not likely to provide
pasturage for large animals, at that season : so that we are
almost driven to conclude that Grinnell Land, as well as
No. XIV.
BOTANY.
?m
Greenland, now known to })e an island (partly by the coast
surveys of the Polar Expedition, and more di'nionstrahly from
the results deduced by Profe.ssor Haughton from tlu; tidal ob-
servations), are, instead of iee-eapped, merely iee-oirt lands.
The cryptogamie flora of the regions visited produced
little novelty except amongst the lichens. These have
Ix'en submitted to Professor Theodore Fries of Upsala for
determination, who sends the foUowinu- interestin"- statement
regarding them : —
'The lichens In-ought home by the Expi'dition were
gathered chiefly in Grinned Land, in the vicinity of the
winter-quarters of the two vessels. It is easy to imderstand
h(nv great an interi'st this collection must have for every
botanist, considering tliat, witli the exct-ption of nine species,
which Payer indicates as liaving ])een found in (he nortliern
part of Franz Josef's Land, not a singk> liclien is as yet
known from anymore nortliern region than the Seven Islands,
situated south of 81° N. lat.
' On this account I submitted the material entrusted to
me to the most minute examination. Not only the more
developed specimens have passed a microscopical examination,
but every morsel has been examined with a powerful lens, and
every little fragment f>f a lichen thus found has afterwards
been examined imder the microscope. The result of this
rather troublesouK but \ery interesting examination has been,
that the number uf lichens represented in this collection
from north of lat. 81° is alK)ut ninety species. Tluce of
these at li-ast are new to scit'uce, whilst several are not known
iK'fore from the Arctic regions, but onlv from localities nmch
further to the south.
'On reviewing the collections as a wliole, the eye is
immediately struck with the paucity of more developed erect-
growing and leaflike species, as well as the contracted shape
of those which weri> found. Tnis is the more remarkable, as
it might natiu'ally Ix' expected that such lichens would, during
the long winter season, constitv.t;» the principal or only food
of the musk-oxen that exist in those regions. It is strange
w
t^ i
:^l ill
..ell' •
111
:m'.\
m m
1 ...i.
'Ui
310
xVrPENDIX.
No. XIV.
that the reindeer moss (Cladonia riuiglferina), so common in
otlier Arctic retj^ions, appears to Ix' a1)st'nt from Grrinnell Land.
* The nature of the lichen flora })et\veen the parallels of 81°
and 83° Nortli by no means indicates that the northern boun-
dary of the liclien flora has l)i'en reached. On the contrary,
many circumstances combine to show that, if there be Luid at
the Xorth Pole, lichens will be found there. The majority
of the lower lichens brou<>ht from Grinnell J^and appear to
be as well developed as those found in rey-ions farther south;
and ('\t'u from a lu'ioht of 1,200 feet Captain PVilden has
brought home several normally and well-developed species.
The most luxuriant specimen of the leaflike genus Gi/rophorct
which is bn)uj;lit home by the Expedition is, straiij^e to say,
from lat. 83° G' N.
' The remaining-, and considerably smaller, part of the
collections was obtained partly at more southern stations in
Smitii Sound, partly durino- short visits to some of the Danish
colonies in Greenland. The former (about forty sjiecies)
undoubtedly <)ive welcome assistance to our knowled<»e of the
lichen flora of Arctic America ; naturally these are of a sub-
ordinate interest, as <2;athere(l in localities previously subjected
to the c\reful search of lichcnolooists : however, my exami-
nation of this material is too little advanced to jwrmit me
to report on them in detail.'
»li
Tlij
^h
LIST OF FLOWERING I'LANTS,
Fkom ELLKSMiatH Laxd and Giunxi;ll Land.
By PiioFKssoK D. Olivkk, F.ll.S.
Iia)iU]icalai^ u'lvalis^ L. ; and
„ „ xav.jloribaa DiinoribiLS, pills calyci-
li'is pdllidiorihufi.
Papcivitv idpuiam^ L. (P. mulicauh\ auct.)
XIV.
No. XIV.
HOTANY.
311
Cocldearia offickiaHs, L. {C. fenestrata, Br.)
Braya alpiua, Sternl).
Vfiiicarid ardicd, Kich.
Carddriiiiie pratensis, L. (leafy spt-ciruen only).
„ heUidifuJla, L.
Cheiranfhns pyrfmcens, Adams. {Hesjjeris pyumuia. Ilk.,
H. Tnininia, T. and G.)
Draba hirta, L.
„ riqjpstris, li. Br.
„ (dplna, L.
Slleup (icauUs, L.
Lychnis apetala, L.
V „ var. (Z. triflora, Br.)
Arenaria rj roe, d and lea, Spr. ? (Leaves only.)
„ vprna, L. (incl. xl. rnbclla, Br.)
Cevdi^tivm (djjiniim, L. ; and
?3 5, forma: foil is ellipticis, confertis,
c) 'ass iu sc 11 lis, fjJii hi •('seen t ibus,
Stellaria lonr/ipps, Goldie.
Potent dl a nivea, L. ; and
xar. (P. pidrhella, Br.)
var. (P. Viddiana, &(.'.)
Dry (IS o('f(jpet(d(i, L. (D. ititer/ri folia, V.)
S<:wifra(/a oppositi folia, L.
„ flar/eUaris, W.
Saxifraga trievsphlata, Ketz.
», ccmpitosa, L.
„ tiivalis, L.
„ „ forma monsfrosa, Jlorihiis pr<Aiferis.
Sliift-rudder Bay (F.)
„ cerniia, L.
Epilobium latifolium, L.
? /Ir/uVa montaiia., L. (J. (iii;/usti folia, X.) A leafy frag-
ment only, from winter-quarters of ' Discovery.' (II.)
Erigcron alpinus, L.
„ composites, Pursli.
Taraxacum Dens-leouis, Desf. var
li
'!'4
ii
-^''
I Iff
;
1
m
''i 1
il
J;| ■
■ m
1
' I
1
■■
■ 1 1
m
■ ^
'; im
.■I
]'i
1
1
; f -
■
:i^
n
._■
1
1 ' ■ -i '
1
J
m
■
I I,!
' "-.9
010
APPENDIX.
No. XIV.
5i
[Fc(r'ri>(t///7;c ii/iffliUMtrm, L. (Hayes Sound, F.) ]
\_C<tssi<)iM' tdnifjoiKi, \j. ( „ F. and H.) ]
PediciiJavla capitdia, Adains.
siiddicd, L. (P. L(iiif/>-tdor£il, Fiscli.)
Idppotucd^ L.
Aiidrosdce HPpti'iitrloii(dw, L.
Salix (trd'ica, Pallas (varii'tics).
aS^Z/.c, barren fragments, not identified (Shift-rudder Hay, F. )
„ „ (Josepli Henry Peninsula, F.)
Pohjf/oiiinu virijjarinn, L.
Ox>/rid, iruiformis, Hk.
LiiziiUt ciunppstrli^. Sin. var. eonjecta.
„ „ var. (L. liyperborea, ]^r.)
Jitiirtix l>l(/I.nraiy>, L.
Eriophoriini p(>Jj/st<u'hi/oii, L.
,, (•((pit(dniii. Host.
Carex nardiiui. Fries.
rl(/id<(, (iood. var.
rir/i<la. Good. (Hayes Sound, F. and H.)
Cdvfx h'ifidd'i Good, ahnornialis forma? an C. holostoma?
Drej. (Hayes Sound, F.)
rif/iild, Good, var.? (Shift-rudder Bay, F.)
Ktdiis ? Drej. Ttarmioan Hill, Hayes Sound, H.)
falir/inosd, S and H.
„ Viu-. ? (Dobbin's Bay, H.)
DeschdhipftHd cd;t<pltosd, P. de B.
CoJfxid'ntrii UdlfoH)iia^ Br.
Pli'ijips'id dl(/i<ld, Br.
Trii^i'iinii suhsplcdtnnt, P. de B.
\_H!('i'(}cld(>(' (dp'iidt, \j. (Hayes Sound, F.) ]
Alopecii rns dip! mis, L.
Pod dbbrcviafd, Br.
„ COUHPd, All.
Fcxincd ovlitd, L. var. hrevlfolid.
Gh/ci'vid diigiist(dd, Br.
l^Pod cdjsla, Sm. var. (Twin Glacier, Hayes Sound, H.) ]
1?
5?
?1
"h,
No. XIV.
liOTANY
313
MOSSES AND JUNG'EmiANNIA'J.
By W. MiTiKN, A.L.S,
A HMAUu collet'tion of Mosses and Jungerrnanniic, iniulc ])y the
iiatm-alists attached to the late Polar Expedition, wa.s placed
in my hands for exanunation. A portion of this collection
was made at some of the North Greenland ports, where
the ships touched on their way north ; but this enumeration
is confined to the specimens brouoht back from Smith Sound,
and the shores of the Polar Basin, or in otlier words, from
an area lying- l)etween the seventy-eighth and eiojitv-third
parallels of north latitude. Captain Feilden's collection con-
sists of twenty-two spc^cies of mosses.
Dlsflchinm 'indlnafmn, Sw. — Floeberg Beach, lat. 82°
27' N. ; with young fruit. This moss is seldom wanting in
collections made in the Arctic regions, and iilthough, in an
exceptional case, it is fomid on the se^i shore in North Britain,
near Dundee, it is throughout Europe and N<a-th America a
Subalpine and Alpine species. In North Africa it is found
on the Abyssinian mountains, and in Thibet it a.scends to
the elevation of 18,700 feet on the top of Hera La ; but it has
not been recorded from any localities south of tlie equatoi-. In
this respect it differs from its congener, D. caplllHcevm, also
commonly found aniongst Arctic mosses, and which ascends
to equal elevation in India, and to 14,000 feet on the Andes.
But it is also found in mountains of much les,s elevation than
that, which would appear to l)e reipiiivd by JX mdliiaiuiu ;
and it is probably generally distributed, for it occurs on the
Cameroons mountain in e<piatorial Africa, and is found in
New Zealand.
Dicravov)Gis)a crlspula, Hedw.— Payer Harbom-, lat.
78° 42' N. ; a tall state not in fruit. Like the Dist'ichknv,
this moss perfects its fruit in Arctic regions ; completely
fruited specimens were gathered by Parry in Spitzbergen,
and others in Davis Straits by j\Ir, Taylor. In Europe and
I' '
'III It
' i
<4|
f
i
;^14
APPENDIX.
No. XIV.
■:in
It ;
ir;^-/'i -f 1
Nortli Aincricii this species is entirely Sii])alpin(' and Alpine,
and it does not appear to pass soutliward beyrnid the northern
temperate zone. A nearly reseTnl)liny- species is foiuid on the
Andes, and two others on the Himalaya; in Antarctic reoions
it is represented hy a species so similar that it was at tirst
considered in the ' Flora Antarctica' to 'he the same. All the
species are very similar, and the South American were placed
in tlie section iKOcarpaa, of the <>enus Dlcraviim. In M.
Schimper's first edition of the ' Synopsis of European ^Mosses '
the oroup of species, of which D. cr'isj'Vila is the largest,
formed his section Enweisld, of the <, -nus Welsld; but in
the second edition of thi' same work they are removed from the
fifenus Wetsia, and now ])ear the n'eni'ric name here nsed for
the species, although still considered by him to belong to the
family Welsleie.
Rhacomltrltim lanwjlnoaum. Dill. — Payer Harbour,
..it. 78° 42' N. ; barren. The specimen is but moderately
hoary, and as usual in Arctic specimens quite barren ; although
a moss which alxmnds in Sid)alpine and Alpine situations, it
is wiiU'ly dispersed in the plains of Europe, occurring even on
tiled buildings but little above the sea level. Antarctic
specimens are visually more hoary, and have received various
names, on the presumption of their being distinct ; Chilian
specimens were described by De Notaris as R. senile, Ant-
arctic ; by C. MuUer as K. (/eronflcnra.
Poitld Helia ii, H(h1w. — Floel)erg Beach ; w'ith ripe ca]isnles.
These specimens show this species in a form very different
from those so common on the coasts of Britain, f -r the leaves
are oblong and o])tuse, and it is only here and there that a
trace is observable of the serridation nsnally so evident ; the
l(jwer leaves are very short and very widely ovate, with the
nerve vanishing below the apex, and the rather thick apiculus
of the operculnm does not exceed in length half the diameter
of the mouth of the capsule. Specimens gathered in Beechey
Island by Doctor Lyall do not differ from the visual Ein-opean
states, except tliat, as in the case of those from Floeberg Beach,
the foliage is more distinctly bordered with the paler cells.
i
No. XIV.
] JOT ANY
In Britain this s])('ci('.s is cxflnsivcly maritime, l»nt it is
fonnd in inland stations on the continent of Knrope as well
as in Britisli North America ; and it, or some other species .so
closely reseml)lint>- it as to have been mistaken tor it, has
been bronj^ht from Fue<;ia, l)ut, like many other sjM-cies be-
lonii'inu' to tlu^ family of Tortuloid mosses, it is not recorded
from the United States.
Tort u lit (Ihirbulii) iinn<i(li)plu/<i^ Schim])er. — Floeliero-
Beach ; a few small l)arren stems amongst J)iKllcln n nt litc/hni-
tum ; Mnshroom Point, in the same condition amon<>st
Z//(/(ffrich!a Imcostorud. This species has not betVirt- been
seen amongst Arctic mosses, bnt tine specimens with fruit
were in some sets of Drunnnond's Alusci Amerieani, No, 139,
as T, fif/lax^ from banks of rivers near the K(K'kv .Mountains.
In P]uro])e, so far as known, it is Sidialpine oi' Alpine.
T. {Zji<ji)ti'h']itn) hmco.-itonKi, Brown. — Mushroom Point,
lat. 82° 20' 12" N. ; July i87(i; with perfect. d capsules.
Originally dcscrilu'd ])y lirown in the Ap])en(lix to PiUTy's first
voya<>e at) a BarbuJa^ it was considered hy Bridsl tlu^ ^'pti
of a new j^cims on account of the peristomial teeth beinoi-on-
nected below by trabeeuhe ; and he thouoht Hooker and
(irrcville, who say, in the ' Kdinburj^h Journal of Science,'
undi'r the name of TortiiJa /nieostomft, that the lower half
of the peristome is imited into a tube, were wrong, and seems
liimself surprised that Brown should have overlooked the
important distinction. The species is entirely Arctic, and
belongs to the same group of spi'cies as thecojunion Kurojx'an
Torfii/d snbtdata, a group which may be said to have the
foliage and habit oiPultln with the capsules and peristome of
Syuirichia.
T. [Sijiitvlchia) rurcdis, Linn. — ^Mushroom Point ; a frag-
ment adhering to a piece of Peltigera. Conunon amongst
Arctic mosses, l)ut always sterile. Widely spread in tcmjM'rate
Europe from the sea to Subalpine regions. Inhabits British
North America ; but appears to ])e lare in the United States,
and has not been traced farther southwards.
Dldyinudou rubellus, Koth. — Floeberg Beach, with
'4
t
I
%%.
nlll
i
316
Arpi';xDix.
No. XIV.
J'^-i'Mii '11
k i
Jii'j/inti JiroH-iiii ; vtTV small iiiid Iwrrcu. A very variii])l('
moss in size. Sniiill states have the jxiiut of the leaf nearly
entire ; l)ut there is always some triiee of the teeth, whieh are
so evident in the lari«-er forms. The ])resenee of tliese teeth
with rnsty fidiai^e, and the hahit of the whole moss, seem to
indicate a close aflfinity with several Andean species; and the
Austral Toriii/ti, .sm'iiliitd. Hook, et (Irev., in which the
])eristome is more decidedly that of Toiiiihi. D, rnhclhis is
in l'luro])e from the sea to tlie liiehest monntains a common
moss, and it is fonnd al-io in Nortli Afiica and Northern India
as well as in liritish North America, l)ut is said to })e rare in
the United States. A very sinnlar sjtecies is found in
central America, and another in New Zealand, l)ut it cannot
In' said to be distinctly traced south of the Kquator.
Enc(ih/i>f((, rlKihdocdvpd, Schw. — Floel)ero- Beach ; with
yonn<^ fruit. Alushroom Point; adherin<>- to a frao^ment of
Pell if/ era, with capsule past matvu'ity ; July, 1876. A
boreal Snbalpine and Alpine species, which in America does
not reach the United States.
Volfid hypcfhorca, Grev. et Arn. — Floeberg Beach ; in
fine condition, with fruit in several stages. In one of the
specimens of this elegant moss the stems are a portion of a
tuft more than two inches in heig'ht. A single abnormal
capsule is present, among the specimen? • it has the point
produced into an erect l)eak, which is about three times
longer than the diameter of the capsule : the calyptra had
been removed.
SpIachiiiDii Wormskitddli, Hornem. — Hayes Sound,
Floeberg Beach, and Mushroom Point ; all fertile. An
elegant Arctic species which in Europe reaches the Scandi-
navian mountains.
Tpfvdplodon urceolidus, B. and S. — Mushroom Point,
and Port Fonlke. This species is not known to grow further
south than the Alps, and although found in British North
America, it does not occur in the United States. Its congener,
2\ mnioklps, which grows also in the same Arctic and Alpine
regions, but which also is able to maintain itself at consider-
ll^^E-
Su. XIV
No. XIV.
HOTANY.
a 17
11
mIP
'V
1 1.
variiililc
f nearly
liicli arc
sc tcctli
ably less altitudes, and Iuim liccn j^Mthcrcd in l'ata<^(»uia,
would thus seem to l)e, like Dlsllchl ii hi cnjjllhin'Kiit, enabled,
by ita capacity Id exist and niatiu'e its tVuctitication in com-
paratively lower and warmer situations, to attain a much
more extensive distribution.
Bavtranila {Ph(loii<>fin)fonta}i(i, Lin. — Floel)er<i^ Beach ;
a very small state, barren, <^ro\vin}^ with Voltla huperhuvea.
Everywhere distributed in northern and ten.perate Europe
and North America, but altliouj»h found in North Africa
it does not seem to pass south of the equator.
Bryura pendidain, Jfornsch.— Dundjell Harbour, lat.
82° 30' X., with unripe fruit. Fre(juent auu)ngst Arctic
mosses and widely distributed throuf^hout temperate Europe,
it prol)ably continues through the Andes and reaches Ant-
arctic reg'ions, being a species able to grow as well on the
sea shore as upon the loftier mountains.
B. Browuli, Br. et Schimp. — Floeberg Beach ; originally
described by Brown as PuhJla hryokles from Melville Island,
it has since been found on the Dovrelield Mountains.
B. calopln/fhi III, Ikown. — Floeberg Beach, and Payer
Harbour ; barren. Long supposed to be an Aivtie species ;
it has in recent tinies ))een foimd to occur on the westein
shores of I^ritain, and in some few localities on the European
continent.
Timmla austrlaca, ITedw. — Floelierg Beach and Payer
Harbour ; barren.
MyurelUi (qj'tculafd, Hueb. — Floeberg Ik'aeh, with
Pof/oudtinii al})iiiiiiii', and a fragment on Pelti;/ern from
jMushroom Point ; all barren.
Orthothcclirui chrjjsi'tim, Schwaegr. — Floel)erg Jieach
with Voltla hypevhorea ; barren. In Europe an Alpine
moss found in the Scandinavian moimtains and Carinthiau
Alps.
Steixodonpllcafllis, Mitt. — Musliroom l*oint ; adhering to
a fragment of Pelthjpfdx barren. Described first in the
* Linnoean Society's Journal,' v. viii., from specimens gathered
«^''' il
(111
it J
:■:..■ t, .
l^:-i
318
AIM'KXDIX.
No. XIV.
in Davis Straits and tlic Km-ky Moinitains : the dislrihut ion of
the species seems not yet ascertained.
CiUiiidofheclii III iiih'iiH, Sehrel). — FIocImt;;' Heac ii ; harn-n.
More jilentiful in Arctic Anieiiea and Nt»itliern Knrope than
in tlie n»ore temperate rci-ions : it is found in the plains and
ascends tile Alps.
Pofjoiintii in (i/)>!iiam, L. — FIocIhto- Hciich ; harren.
Mr. Hart's collection consists of twenty-six Mosses and
one .Jmiyfcrmannia.
Disfichliiiii inch iii'fiiiii, Sw. — Winter-quarters, If. M.S.
* Discovery,* lat. Hl° 44' N.
Wiacoiiiih'iinn lniiii[/liio8U7n, Liim. — Hayes' Sound, hit.
78" '>'/ N.
Tiniiil(( (Ziff/o/ric/iid) h'licoHfoind., Hrown. — St. Patrick's
Bay, lat. 81° 4(1' N. ; with Orf/iolltiiciii nt rlir//si'.inn.
Orthofrlfhuhi speclosiDn, Nees. — Winter -cjuarters,
]I.M.S. ' Discovery ' ; barren.
Vuitla hijpc-rhorea, Grev. et Arn. — ^Nlusk Ox Bay, lat. 81**
40' N.
TdrKplodoii mnioiiles, L. — With the preccdinj^, very
small and short, hut perfectly fruiting-.
2\ iii'ceoldtiis, B. et S. — jNIusk Ox Buy.
SpliU'Jinina Wormshioldil, Hornem. — Winter-quarters,
H.M.S. ' Discove/y,' and Hayes Sound.
S. odsculusum, L. — oNIusk Ox Bay ; very small and short,
but fertile.
Anhicoinnion fiiiyldinn, Wahl. — Hayes' Sound ; barren.
Leptohrijaiitpijrifuriiu', Linn. — Hayes' Sound; with fruit.
Bryvm ( Webcni) lungleolbnn, Sw. — Hayes' Sound ; with
(till capsules.
B. (ir.) «v/.(?/f?n, Dicks. — Hayes' Sound ; barren.
B, (ircticam, Brown. — Musk Ox Bay.
B. BroivnH, 1^. et S. — Same locality.
B. cencxm, Blytt. — -Winter-quarters H.M.S. 'Discovery.'
This species very closely resend)les small states of B. ptd/ens.
B. calophyllam, Brt)wn. — Winter-quarters, H.M.S. ' Dis-
coverv.'
;i^
No. XIV.
BOTANY.
310
T'niim'ui aiisfrldcd, IIimIw.— Wiiitt'r-(]M!irt('rs, H.M.S.
*l)is(()V('iv ' ; barren.
Orf/tol/n'cliiia c/iri/si'ii III, Sdiw. — JSt. Patrick's liii)', Hayrs'
Sound ; all sliurt stems and hancn.
0. I'lilwll inn. Mitt. — iMusk Ox Hay; jijrowin^' with Tcfnt-
plotliin II rcfolaiiiH', barren.
iSfcirndoii p/!nitl/!s, ."Nlitt. — Wiiiter-(iuarters, 11.^1.8.
' Diseovery ' ; barren.
Amh/i/sli'.f/lini niicniiiluiii, Jledw. — Winter-([uarters,
H.M.S. 'Discovery.'
A. li/c()j)0(l!ol<li's, ,Scb\v. — Winter-quarters, H..M.S. ' ])is-
covery ; ' ))arren and small.
A. (Aci'oci'i'itliinii) Irifiir! II III, NN'et. et .M.— Hayes'
Sound ; l)arri'n.
A {A.jxdiiiu'lilofiii III, Wahl. — ]fayes* Sound ; a very small
short state ; l)arren.
.liri(r/iijf/ii'c!ii Hi CI rrJiAisiita, Scluv. — Wintei-cjuarters
IT. .M.S. ' Discovery ; ' in very small quantity ; ])arivn.
lUi'ph<iiv'.ta trichop/ii/l/ii, ]Anu. — Hayes' Sound ; Ijarren.
rij;
If
If :'■
ENUMERATION OF THE FUNGI
COLLKCTKD UUIIINU TIIK AllCTIC K.VI'KDITIOX or 1S7.-, AND 1S7(1.
By the Rkv. M. J. JJkukkij-y, :M.A., F.L.S.
The collection consists of twenty-six species, of which I liave
been able with toleral)le certainty to determine all l)ut two;
at least I have indiciited the closest aflfinities in one or two
which were difficult cases from the condition of the speci-
mens, if there is some doul)t. as to the exact species to which
they are I'eferred. Of the twenty-six sjiecies seventeen are
widely distributiMl, and seven hitherto undescribed, besides
m
;2o
A1TKNJ)IX.
N(.. XiV.
till' two wliieli r have Ih'cii iiliiiblc to dcte
nniiK',
Of tl
le
i
new siK'cics two at least ar(
•rv iiitercstiiii)- Aiiiiricn
r>'
Fc'iUlciii ainl Crmiht llnrti'i. Tlic foniirr 1h'I()1i<>-.s to a
oroujj very little luiderstood, and I have, tlicn-foiv, to regret
tliat the s|)eeiiiu'iis were so roui^lily dried that some of tlu^
eharaeters are more or li'ss o])seiire ; the
ft!
latt(
r is a new foiin
o
le curious <>-enus Cnuilii, Fr., and soexaetlv lik(,' the tii>iire
in ' Flora Daniea,' referred by Fries as u variety to Peilzit
cilxtrluhi, that it is veiy ]jrolKd)le that tlu^ Danish may b«
identical with the Arctic ]»lant. The occurrence of t'lmio-
iiiiiiin (fld.hriun on the walls of the caluns of the 'Alert' in
such abundance is very curious. In this country it is widely
diffused not oidy on papered walls, but on bare stone,
basket-work, &c., and it is remarkable that the spoi'idia are
nota])ly smaller in the Arctic specimens. A(/(ii'icuN Fdldi'iii,
which occurred several times, is ])robably esculent, as is cer-
tainly the case with Ru,ssiUa ndciira. I ou^ht, perhaps, to
apoloi^ise for describing- A. .spharonporas .and A. Bello-
tlauiiH fntm single specimens, but the characters are such
as to separate them frtnu all allied speci'-s which have been
[)revioiisly described.
There are two o])servations which it is but justice to add
to the a});)ve ncjtes. It is abs()lut"ly necessary to take into
consideration the extreme diflHculty under which collectors
labour in Polar reoions. The room on l)oar(l is necessarily
very limited, and tlie dam{> atmosphere* of the cabins petu-
liarly unfavouraV)le to drying- plants, added to which the
munt'rous matters constantly in hand make it impossible to
chanj^e the dryin^- papers frequently enouj^h to insure the
al)sorption of all the moisture, without which specimens
never turn out in good condition.
It was, moreover, impt)ssible to give any information as
to the edible ([ualities of any species which occiuTed, as the
nundjer of individuals was extremely small ano sometimes
confined to a single s])ecimen. The wondei- is that, under
tl-'e circumstances, so much was done in a department v.hicli
presents peculiar difficult i<'S.
^ifl
No. XIV.
J5()TANV.
1. A
(Id ftriis
{Oiiiiihii/l(i) II inliilicdl ns, ScliiL'fT. t. 207.
I'"]'. Ilyin. Kiir. ]). l.')5. On pciily soil. ^Mounl I'mspcct,
Discovery Buy ; lat. 81° 41' X. ; 1[. (". Hart. tS|)ores luiiiutc
sliulitlv ki(hicv-slKii )('(!.
2. A. {()iilj)fi(l/i(l) ilnihiU'iJ
I'nis,
L
Oil
])cat
Til
Vi'llow form
V
rovcn w
itli Pi'llii/i'i'ii, Disco, July 187'),
I'rovcii, .liil)' 1875, Discovery liay ; W. 0. Hart. I'peiiiivik,
July 22, 1875; H. W. Feilden. rileus toinciitose. 8teiii
tliickest Ih'Iow, tonientose aliout two lines lii<^li. The speci-
iiiens are small, l)n.t mostly \sell (levelo|te<l. In those iVom
Discovi'i'y Bay the J4'ills are so tliickened as to ]>e almost
SI
il )i>'l( »1
lose
Th
species is very common in niountaincjus
eo.
countries, and is sometimes extremely iK'aiitit'iil.
3. A. {OriifJuUia) xplnirospoi'us^H. Piloo memliraiuu
profunde umhilicato ; lamellis latis distantilius, decurreiitilius ;
sjjoris <;lol)osis pediccUatis. On moss. I'|ieruivik : if. ('.
Hart. About one nich across.
4. A. {Cl'dopUas) liinlaUis. Fr. Hyin. Kiir. ]). 199.
Ic. tah. 9f), %. 4. Cape Saliine, August 1, 1875; H. W.
Feilden.
5. ^1. {Navcorht) Bcllot'wmu^^ B. Nov. sp. Bellot
Island, Aiio-vist 14, 1870 ; H. \V. Feilden.
G. A, {Tnhavlii) furfuracois, P. Syn. p. 454: Fr.
Hyni. Fur., p. 272. Westward Ho! Valley; lat. 82" 40' N. ;
H^ W. Feilden. Mount Prospect, 81° 41' N. ; H. C. Hart.
7. A. {Tuhan'a) 2>pfliic'Khis, BnU. Tab. 550, fio-. 2 ; Fr.
Hyin. Fur., p. 273. Hayes' Sound; lat. 79° N., Au<>ust 4,
1875; H. C. Hart.
8. A. (Strophdrid) Fi^lfdciii, B. Nova s)i. Bellot
Island, lat. 81° 41' N. ; Aiioiist !87<i: H. AV. Feilden,
Mount Prospect, Discovery Harbour, July 4, 1870; H. ('.
Hart.
9. Ifijr/rophorv.^i riri/incus. Fr, Hym. Eur., ]>. 413.
Small specimens, .Seplember 29', 1875: lat. 82° 27'; 11. W.
Feilden.
10. //, mlidafiis. Fr. Hym. Kiir. p, 418. Hayus'
Sound, AuH-ust 4, 1875; H. C. Hart.
VOL. 11. V
ilii
'If
';!» ,
'%
I! ;
,.if
'I
r |l
I »
:\2-I
Al'l'EXDIX.
Xo. XIV
I:
11. linssiijti i Hli'(/r(i,. Vr, Jlyiii. Knv. ]». 4.")(). l^cliot
Jslaiul; l;it. HV 41' S., \wj;n<\ i:\, 187G: U. \V. FciMcu.
12. Citiithdi'i'l/ns iiiiiclf/i'inis, Kr. Ifyiu. Kur. p. 4(J0,
Oil moss tVoiii DiscoviTy \i;\\ ; H. (\ l[;irt.
13. Mi'i'iii'i iiH ((.iir<inti((,i-(t>!. Vf. ][yiii. Ivir. ]>. ')d\ :
Kl. ill I5crk., Ku-. V\. v., p. 1-2S: Discovery Hay, 81° 41'
\ : ][. C. Hart.
14. Ijijfopcrdini ci'rfaccaut, I'. Nov. s|). ; Jit'ilot T<lain!.
v\uoust 14, lS7(i; IT. W. Fcildcn.
i.'). L. Ill r(ij)in'j)ii I'i'ii III. Vitt. .Moiioi^'. liVf. |t. 42,
tal). ii. Hi;-. (5; Discovery l>ay, .Mount Prospeet ; H. ('. Hart;
Bcllot Island, Aiit^ust IS, l<S7(i, and Hayes' Sound, Au;^-iist 4,
1S75: H. W. Feildeii.
1(1. Tricliohiis'is Pi/ro/(i', n. Out. p. 3:52; Tredo
PyroJa', (Jrev. H. Kd., p. 440 ; Proven, on leaves of Pyrola.
17. Sti 11)11 III n.irtlriini, ii. Nov. sp. on the stem of
A;jii i-iciifi .'^ijliii'i'ii.sjxiriifi^ E. ; Upeniivik : H. ('. Hart.
18. Pi'z'r.n stn-comi. V. Obs. 2, p. 89 : Kr. Syst. Myo.
ii. p. 87; Cooke, .Alicr. tig-. 147; Discovery l:}ay on (Xxiwr^ of
nuisk-ox ; H. ('. Hart.
ID. Asr,:bi)bisfttrfarai'i'ii.'^. P. Olx. 1. t. 4, f. 3-11. On
dung of musk-ox with preceding.
20. Urnulit Hitrili, H. Mov. s|;. Upeniivik; I[. ('.
Hart. Griimcll Land; lat. 82' 2!)' X.; July 187(1; H. \V.
Feilden.
21„ CliiBtoinluni fflabriuii, B. and Br. Ann. Nat. Hist.,
May 1873, p. 349, tal). x., fig. I.k On damp surface in
cah'i'i of IT.M.S. 'Aleit' av Fioeherg Beach; lat. 82° 27' N.
22. Vi'.il iir'iii iiiijrfilli, Cooke. Journ. of Bot., AiigU'^*
18(i(i, tail. .)(), tig. 4. On semiputrid leaves, Discovery Bay;
H. C. Hart.
23. iSjilidrcllii /hn'iihiJii., I)e Not. Splia'ria liiieolata
Desm. PI. Crypt, No. 12(i3 ; Cooke, I.e. tal). .ll, tig. 31.
On grass with the last.
24. Dothldi'd hiilliiliUd, U. Nov. sj). On leaves, Disco ;
H. C. Hart. S(«iiie species of }fac<>i' appears to have oc-
curred with ( 'liu'loiii i II III. iiliilii'ii III.
N". MV. JJOTANY. 32 ;i
AiJij<: AM) diatomaci'Lt:.
J}v (i. DicME, .M.A,, M.I)., F.L.S.
DUIUNG the Ai-ctic Expt'dition of lH7.J-7(i but trw species of
tlie hio-her orders of iii;iriiie al<>-oe were eolleeted ]>evoiid 7S°
X. lat.; the foUowiiio- are rdl tliat liave eoiiie under inv
notice auu)nj>- the collections made })v Captain Feilden anil
.Air. Hart :—
DesiiKi ri'sf'nt acitlcatd^ Lamour.
Luiiuiini'iii loiKjicni i'ii<, De la JM.
JJicfijijsijjhoii fd'K iculdirus, Grev.
Chordai-id fldfidHforiith, A<>-.'
EctdCdi'iniK slUctilosns, Lyni;l).
Vh(eto-pf('rls plifhiosd, „
These all belon^- to the olive-coloured series, and, with
the exception of the two species of Laininaria, are well known
P]urt)pean forms.
Dr. Moss and Captain Feilden sent to me fraoments of
stems of Lanunaria from the nuid of a raised heaeli or 'shell
flat ' 200 feet above the present level of the sea at Floeber"-
Beach, N. lat. H'2° 27', W. lonu-. fiT 22', also from umd-bedt
in Cane Valley, (irimndl Land, N. lat. 82° 33'. The frag-
ments seem to belono' to both spi'cies of Lanunai-ia a])ove
mentioned, and Captain Feilden states that thev retained
the peculiar marine smeil as stronoly as in recent ■ 'eeimens.
The beds from which the specimens were taken are exposed,
by the action of a stream, to a depth of not less tlian thirty
feet in thickness: aloui;' with them were found shells of
Mya tnnicdfd, A start e iMtn^alls, &e.
I couhl not find any trace of marine aWi belon'>in<>- to
the red stuies.
• The sl)l'l•iln.■ll^ v.'rv ilwiirraiid iVajimenlftrv, uevfrtheless 1 tliiuK thfv
niust be rfteirod to this gjieciei--.
V -2
■'';
'f'
;t \
f ■ t'
:: If
Tf S til
ii» . j
i .1!
IP
i.-i
;;24
aimm:\I)I\.
Nn. M\-
l,;:d M
vH
r';/;,
I'*
in''
':^v|;
Tlic most (•()iii|)lctc list of till' inariiic ;iIl;;i' <>f S|iitsli('rm'ii
known to nic is one i;ivcii ])\' Professor .1. (i. A^iudli, coni-
prdicndiii^- seventeen olivo and twenty of the I'ed — tliei'<for-'
eoniparat ively rifli wlien contrasted with tliose al)i)Ve eiiii-
iiierated : all the; s|»eeies are also inelnded in the S|)itsl)i'i'i;eii
list with one exet'ption, viz. Did yosiphon.
The niai'ini' speeies of the ^^^reen series found l»y the
naturalists of the Kxpcdition are —
Uiva IdtinsniKi^ L., \ery fra^ineiriary.
Eideroniorp/id cJathniht^ (J rev.
Ch(U'l<Jiii<)rpha Mt'.ld.i/oul n.ni., \Ve]>. and Mohr,
Tlies(! have very uide (listri])ution in Kuropt'an and other
seas.
There are also rej>re>en(atives of several ^encM'a found in
fresh water, namely : —
Prasiola Sd.ufcrl, Meneoh.
Zj/f/ofjoin 11)11 A(j<irdh!!, Kal)h.
t'lostt'rlioii III nuld, MiiHer.
Zouoirichid., speeii'S.
Kudoc comimnic, Vaueher.
„ aurnim, Ktz.
Ilormosiphoii arctlcuvi, lierk.
Hoi^viosponi, sjiecies.
Chr(H)C(H'i-n,s, species,
(f/oi'ociipsd, M(t(/ia<i, Ktr.
Osci lid rill ten ii.i,s, Ao;.
JfiJIi/u'olliri.r vorliKU'd^ Ktz.
„ obscHi'd, n. s|).
Clifliniiohldslns, s[).
TolypdlJirl.r, sp.
Tlu> most ii])undant of these appears to h;' AVs^or' co)ii-
niinjH', whicli occurs in Spitsl)eri>-en, and is widely diffused in
Europe, as inched also are the other itinera.
6r/o(^<'«ji^.Sf/< I have previously seen as found at Disco; the
specimens sent to me l)y Dr. Moss were ioiuid at 82'^ 27' N.
W'
X(t. XIV.
TIOTANY.
•^25
h. vi
hV tllr
It tliiis i)]i|t('iirs tlint cciiiiiii well-known Kui'()|)c!in ;;cn('iii
l.avc their representatives in the cold marshes of lantls licyond
S{f X.
The J)i(if()ni(if('/f are •.\]<(>. on the wlmle, well re|)resente(l
in the t'oUeetions made h\ (aptaiii Feilden, Dr. Moss, and
Mi. Hart.
I have observed the f'ollowiiii;' o-enera, and it may he
snfBeient to record here merelv the nundu-r of species of each
oenus, a complete list of names hein^- preserved for full
report elsewliere.
j^^ 1:1:
■'' m
lasr oi" Diatoms, iikvuxd I.at. 78° X.
Snmi: of (ii'iiiis
No. ut Sjiifiis
' Nimir ut tiflllls
No, III S|»c'i(t.
Ac/nitt/ifhrs .
2
Ndririild
~T~
.{(•Initi iitliidiuni .
2
Altzxfliid
• >
.{ iii/)liij)riirii
2
1 Urfhiixini
1
1 injihord
4
' I'lvii rio'iijiiHi
2
Jiidthil/iliid
1
I'ikIiIx'i I'd
1
Chui ti>ri nm .
•>
I'dddxphd II id
1
doccdiiris
'. 4
lid iili(iiiri!< .
1
('(IHcillllllifCIIX
4
Itlidhiloiiinid
2
('l/illhclld
1
Rhitivtmjilii'uiit.
1
JJriifirii/a .
• i ' i
Surirclla
H
JJiiifiimu
■ 1 ' 1
SfmintiK ix .
»
1- II not id
1
Sf/Mi'd/'d
4
Frdf/i/drid .
. ' 1'
Thiihi'moKird,
1
(Irn niNidtiijilmrd .
2 :
Ti'iri I'diiinii
1
Mi'/imi/'d
I i
Tnjhlidinila
1
Ml r'ldioii
I
1
'M
■M
Making' in all thirty-one oH-nera and seventy species so far as
I liavt' ol)serveil ; mo>t of tlnni are mai'ine, those (»f frc: h-
water l)ein<;- fewei-.
P. T. ("leve, in a eomnnmicat ion to the Swedish .\< ademy
of Sciences, -March 12, 1S73, states that the whole munher
found in the Ai'ctic Sea i< ll^l ; hut he considers si ventecn
of these as of doid)tful occurrence in that reoion. In the
same paper he specities thoM' foimd at Spitsliericen, whi(h
x'cms, a< in t he case of the hi;^her ali;';e ah'cadv ;dlud<'d td,
to lie lielier in species than the pai'ts of t he Arctic Sea xisited
hy tii«' late Expedition.
a*
I
32 (>
AITKNDIX.
Xu. XIV.
The presence nml a})uii(laTiee of tliese iTiinute oroniiisTiis,
witli tlieir ex(iuisitely s(iil|»tured silieioiis investiiieiits, is a
point of iniicli iiitiTest in relation to tlie existence of animal
life. Jt has been lon^; known that they abonnd in the ali-
mentary canal of certain radiata and bivalve niollnsca, and
where they are abundant, which seems to lu' the luli', thi>
implies the possible presence of certain animal forms wl'cli
find abundant pnhuhnii in the organic contents of the
Diatoms; these lower are preyed upon by those of higher
tvpe, and we thus have a very notabh' and interestino- chain
of dependence and an illustratiim of the proverbial 'power of
the littles.'
It is, therefore, not sur[)risino- to fmd that at least sixttH'U
species of bivalve mollusca were collected beyond 80° N. by
the naturalists of tlie Expedition.
u
f : \
1
■
1
i^ ^
1
\
I'Tlie botanical collpi'tioiis tivatod of in tin' prcccdinjj: pafres wen-
nminly, tlion;jfli not entirely, made in Grinnell Land between the latitudes
of ,^l° 40' N.. and s.r (i' X. The vieinity of Discovery Eay, and a^* far
north as lat. ^\° 51)', was carefully Ijotanised by ?>lr. Ilart, and from that
latitude to the eiirhty-third parallel the collections were made by the
writer. Thoujrh the period for collectiufr phanoroframic plants was con-
tlncd to a nu)iith or si.v weeks in the .lumnier of \S~^S, yet it is probable
that few tlowerin;.;' plants csca^ied observation, and tiiat the collections
In'ouffht back give an accurate and aderiUiate idea of the phinerojramic
tlora of (Jriiniell Land. The number of species of lichens obtained is
astoi'.ishiiijr, jet tills result niiiy fairly be considered only iis a contribu-
tion to the lichanology of (ivinnell Land, and not by any means an
e.vhaustive collection; the fame remark ap])lie.s to the collections of
i'uniri, conferva", and diatoniacete. — II. W. Fkildkn.]
No. XV
(I IK) I, Of! V
Xo. XV
6-St
' r
li
•I'J:!'
n E 0 L 0
ON TIIJ-: GEOLOGIOAL rSTltT'CTUlll': OF 'UW. COASTS OF
rJl'JNNKLL LAM) AND HALL liASIX,
VISITED JIY TIU': JIKITISII Ai:< IK' F.X I'DIHIT'IN OF Is7r,-fi.
By C. E. I)i; Ranck, F.fi.R., Assoc Jnst. C.K
)]' tlio (it'oliiiiic'iil Sur\cy
(if I'iiii:laii(l iiiid W.
AND
\\. W. FEiLnix, F.G.P., F.E.G.S., C.M.Z.S.,
Niiniralisi to tlic Kxiicilit ion.
TiiK collection of vocl<>; and fossils, more tlii\n 2,()()() in
nuHiLcr, made dnrino- the expedition in the lands lyin,i>-
between tlie ])arailels of 78° and 83° d' Xortli, enable the
following- sc(|uence of foiniations to lie estalilislied for these
far Arctic Jiands : —
GlUMNKLL TiANl>, i.^C.
Glacio-mai'ine \)vd<.
]Miocene shales and clays
with thirty feet coal seam.
Carhoniferons limestone,
Dana Ray beds.
Upper Silurians.
Lower Silurians.
Cape Hawson beds.
Fundamental gneiss, &.v.
X. Amkktca K(,)riVAi.r,NTs
Glacio-niarine beds.
Carboniferous limestoni'.
T)e\T>ninn.
(^)uelii'c ( Llandeilo) or(tu[).
11 u Ionian ?
Laurent ian ?
i n
;i
JlJ . '
li; .1
I •!
APPHNDIX.
Xo. XV.
l*Ar.K()/()i(j Rocks. — The iinciciit t'mi(l;iiririital ^-iiciss mikI
crystulliiH.' rocks, lliivt have hccn (Icsi-riliiMl by so many
o])scrvrrs as frinniun- the, coasts of (rrcciilaiKl, and midcrlyiiij^'
tlu' synclinal of jiahco/oic rocks of the I'arry Arcjiipclaoi),
conlinnc norlliwards, and furnillic sIkucs of Sinilli Sound
on citlicr side, occupying' the entire coast of l^llesinere I. and
from Cape Isal»eila to Cape Sabine, rising' to a lieiu'lit of
2, ()()() feet.
At Port lAiulke tlie syenitic and i;neissic rocks are overlaid
l)y sandstone and coui^lonierate, the former lai't;ely rippled,
and prol)al)ly of .Miocene a^c, overlaid by sheets of ba-alt,
which liave altered in some cases into porcellanite.
Cap'' Roirnoii li('((fi.- A vast series of a/oic rocks,
newer than the fundamental gneiss, and probal)ly unconform-
able to it, l)ut older than the fossiliferoiis Silurians, occupy
the country ])etween Scoi'esl)y Bay and (.'api; (.'reswcdl, in
lat. S2° 40' N., and i)rol)a])lv represent in time the J[uronian
pr(
of North America, l)ut fornu'd possil)ly in a different liasin,
as they are not present in the Arctic Ai'chipelao-o.
At CajK' Rawson tlie strata are thrown into a series of
sharp anticlinal folds, which rani;i' W.S.W'., are abruptly
terminated bv sea-(
liftV
as at
l')iacK
Ca
Ca
1)1-
/nion, and
other prominent lieadlands, and i'xhi})it fine sections of jet-
black slates, in stronj;' conti'ast to the frozen sea beneath and
the snow-clad slopes above.
Associated with the slati's are beds of im[iure limestones
frequently traversed with veins of (juartz and chert ; the
shites are sometimi's exceedingly well cleaved, the planes of
cleavai;-e l);'ini;' o-enerally inclined at hioh angles, and njore
I'arely lioi'i/ontal, their strike Ix'inn' N.X.M. to S.S.W. The
true di]» of the slati's is almost invariably at very hii^h angles.
Tl
lese
l)ed^
i>ive pJace
furtl
ler noj-tli to a vast series of
(jiiartzites and grits, which conunence in lat itude 82° .33' :
they rise in \N'estward ][o ! \'alley to ridges .3, ()()() feet in
height. An anticlinal axis passes through this valley and
carru's down these strata bcnea
of l''eilden Peninsula.
htl
le eai
bonifL
crous limestoiR'
jm
No. W
(iliol.od V.
;;:.".)
Silurian LI nicslDiti.^.- "Slnv-.A clilTs of liiiic>tuii,', willi
('Oiii;'l(>iiicriit(' ill the l)iisc, rise to ;i lici^lit of iiimi' lli;iii lOOO
t(H't on till' I'iist coast of Uiiclic Island. Tlicsr licils at the
south end of IJaclic I-
and, a.-
virwcil tVdin Hnrlianan Strait,
iipjicar to rest on svcnitic and i;ianitoid incks, and dip gently
to tlic X.X.W. as far as \'ictoria Ili'ad, w
lnTc a landing' \n
IS
I'tfcctcd and sonic fossils obtained : tlic initial cliffs, foinniiL;'
the noitlici'ii .shore of the island, coii.-ist of t his format ion, and
correspond in dirci'tion to the strike of the stiata.
The limestones of Xoriiian Lockver Island, lat. 7!J' ')2' N.,
at till' mouth of Kranklin Pierce Hay, ilip iit a lii^li an^le to
the noi'th. The south side of the islaud is a steep Idiiff rising'
to Goo feet, glaciated at the top, in a north and south direc-
tion. To the north is a low shcKini;- >hoi'e ; and hetween the
island and the mainland there is a fault hrini^i'.ii;' in the
hasenu'iit coni^lomerate hi'ds of Uaclie Island. It is well seen
at Cape Prcscott, in Allman and Dohliin Hays, Cape Louis
Xapolcon, and Hayes Point, as an- the limcstoni's, hy which
it is overlaii
A nortli-''a>t anticlinal passing;' throir^h (ape llil'^ard
prohahly brinj^s in older Silurian r
from this locality have lieen iletermine
ocK<, as some o
f the fossil;
by .Mr. Ktheriil-c t(
be Loivi'i' Still rldii forms : Miirl n fi'H uiiii/ii<i, Iti'Ci'iihicnl'ili
{)Cci(li'utal'is^ J{. (irctira, Kth. Several of tlie>e ty|ies a]
iiicar
to liavo been previously brought from the Parrv Archiiicla^^o,
where tlici'c is ]»robably an unbroken seipieiice from the
Lower Silurian, thro" di the I'pper Silurian into the Devo-
niiui, without any jihy.sscal break.
The Ca[)e llil^ard coni;lonierate ap])ears to correspond in
time and position to tlii' red sandstone and coarst' oiit under-
lying" the Silurian linii'stoncs of North Somerset, wliiidi are
described as like those found between W'olsteiiholme and
Whale Sounds, West (ireeidand. \N'liet her the Lower Siinrian
horizon is tliat portion of the section lyiiiL;- lietwcen the lime-
stones and the coiii'lomeial
e or I'l
it l)e 1, has not liceii (1 ail
y
made out cither in (Irinnell Land
or III the -in
lie Ai
ClII-
pehwo : but this view i< si ront^ly supported by the fact that
;i)
AI'I'I.NDIX.
Nn. W
tlif hasciiicul beds in lidtli aiciis iii(lic;i(r ;i iici'inil of dfiiiKla-
tii)ii.
hiUMtw water, oi' at
■vents elusion of eoast-lines.
lliat no oldei' fos>iliferous lieds are known, and tlial llie
ntnj^lonierate or i;rit lied rests direct ly on the fundamental
rock. Silniian liniotones continued to ( 'ape Norton Sliaw :
l)i)tli in this locality and at Cape IJarrow tliey contain a
numerous assembla^^e of fossils, described in a very exhaust ive
Amonii'st them ma\ be mentioned
Fdi'osih's III I'colit rix^ F. ;/<>lhl<lll(ln'<', F<i ris/clhi ri'l iciiltild^
report by Mr. Mtherido'c
IlalifKil
('(>j)f)i iii/i n,
I'S ('III I' I
It'll ii/dl I
var.
fiuhl
I'll I.
Kth., Fill III
III I'm s
Ki'
On the northern side of Scoresbv I*avthe extension of
the !
imestone cease
md tl
le moi'e ancient ( 'a
> aw son
])e(b
rise to day. \\'hetlier the line of junct ion is a fault, or a
natural boundary, is doulitful ; of whatcNci- chai'acter it may
it is cer
tain that it trav
tl
erses
Kennedy Channel, and
ri'a|>]ieai's on the opposite coast m
Ifall
and
where it;
situation is determined within narrow limits, trending- from
J*olai'is liay to Newman liay. These lu'ds outcrop on the
ni
)rth side of Thank (iod Haibonr, and there i
s an exposure
of Silurian limestones at ("a]ie Tyson and Offley Island to
the south : from this point southwards to the j^reat Humlioldt
olacier, the Silurians form the rock of tin' country, 1)V way
of Petermann Fiord, ]^essels Eay, Franklin and Crozier
Islands, and Cajies Constitution and Andrew .lackson.
DuiKt Biiij Bills. — (Jreen slates associated with meta-
nior])hosed rocks l)elon<;ini;' to the Cape Kawson beds are seen
on tlk' slope Ir'Iow the carl)onifi'rous limestone on the neck
of Fi'ilden Peninsula, but the boundary is doubtful, and may
lie faulted.
On the south side of the valley in Dana Bay, at the head
of Porter Bay, the carlioniferons limi'stone is re])eated by a
strike fault, and the base is not seen.
A small exposure of fossiliferous heds was observed in a
torrent (ourse, the fo^.-ils are referred by Mr. l<]lheri(l,o-e to
the Devonian era : but as the nature of the underlyino- rocks
' .IminiiU (i(M)lnpiciil Soe..' LdiKlon. b^'7s.
\... XV
Cl'.dl.OC V
could Hot lie (Ictciniiiicd, it is doiilit t'lil w littlicr tlir>r ruc|<
i'i'|)r('sciit tlic ' I'rsii st;iL;c " of llfor, iiiid w lict licr tlicy Wnw
the I
i;isr o
f tl
It' ciirho
lut'
(■roil-
liii
lotoiic. SliouM it I
)(• even-
tiially proved hyt'iitiirc rcsciirclirs tliiit the ' I i's;i stiiyc ' is
absent, it would a|(|(e;u' prohahle tliat these lieds were
oidy de|)osile!l further south.
The roeks lyiuf( al)ove the Silurian liniestone of t he
Arctic Archipelaiio occiu' in a synclinal trouu'li or hollow,
raiif^diij;- W.S.VV. and I'l.N.K. from Hanks I.and throufjh the
I'arry Islands, At Uyani Martin Island, .MM 'lintocU describes
two sandstones, the one red, Hnely stratified, associated with
piU'jile slate, reseinlilini^' the rcil sandstone (d' North Somerset,
Cape P)mniy, an<l that found l)etw<'en W'oUtenholnie and
Whale Sounds, \V. (Jreenland; and another, tine-<;i'ained,
j^'reyish-yellow coloin'cd, resend)Iin^- tiie coal-hearing' sand-
stone of Cape Hamilton, liank's Land ( l>arinn- Island). It
contains numerous casts uf a ])rai'hiopod, allied, accordiuL;- to
Di'. Hauo^hton, to Tcrchrdhild {A/r
l/l>")'>
limit I
pi J (I
rts.
on
nd
1 as
Huch (and to A. fidhi.r of tlu; carltoniferous r(»cks of Trela
founil abundantly at (ierolstein in the Mifel, now knowi
J{/i)/ii(}i()iii>l/ii iii'imipildris. Associated with these latei'
sandstones are coal-seams strikinu' 1*1. N.K, to I^athursf Ishuid.
The coals have a liu'naci'ous texture, consistiu"- of thin layers
of brown coal and jetty-black j^'lossy coal, with a wooden rin^'
under the hammer.
The identity of y-enera and of some sjtecies of the flora of
the pre-carboniferous limestone ' I'rsa sta^^c ' with those of
the rocks of Kuro|)e, lyini;- inunediately ;d)ove the limestone,
point to the e([uable and identical climate prevailing;' over
very larne areas
)f the earth's sm'f;
ICC
and to the local and
temporary character of the deep sea conditions expressed by
the formation of tlie mountain limestone, in the midst of a
lon<>' continental e]»isode, marked by the first rich land flora,
the earth's history, which can be traced both in the old world
in
and in the new, from 47" to T'i'' and 7()° north lat., and which
was as fully developed beyond the Arctic Circle, as in Ceiiti'al
Europe: the leaves of the everyreen tree Lcpldui/nn/ro, and
•!l
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
'9/ ^W "^ ^ M
V
-«A
^
1.0
^^iiiiM im
'- ilM 111112.2
I.I
■m ^
li£ III 2.0
1.25
1.4
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
1=
1.6
m.
^^
,\
V
\
\
"%
S^ . ^>
#»*:
6^
23 WEST r .AIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY. 14580
(716) 872-4503
^\. ^
Pi>
!
<^
V C^
,<^
V
&.
(/j
:\:\-2
AI'I'liMUX.
Nn, \\
tlic 1;ii"l;c tVoiids (if i 'n ril nifiliriK J rimiluKii ^ liciiiL;' ii> well
j^TciWIl ill tllf Al'i-tii- ;is tlii.-f tlMiii tlic \'iiSL;rs Mild lilt- suiitli
of rci'liiiid.
( 'ii rlit),ii li'riiii-'< Lnii'stiiiK'. — lioi'ks nf iliis iij^c ((cciir in
l^'rildfii :iiid I'iiriv l'ciiiii>iil;is, on tlir iiortli cdiist of (iriiiiicll
I<;iiid, ;iiid extend ;is f;ir we.-l ;is Cleineiits Maikliiini Inlet,
attiiiniiiL;' :i lieiL;lit of iiicuc t liiili "J,!)!*!) teet ;it .Mount .hili;i,
iind |trol»;iltIv to still niciiter lieii;lil in the I'liited Stiites
Kaii:^(', wliicli coi responds in direction witji the strike of the
Ik'iK:, a!i(i prohalily continues in a soutli-westeily direction,
across f'le whole (d' the tract lyiiin' hefweeii the limest<»!ies of
liiis a;^e i;< the synclinal of t he I'any Arcliijielai'-o. Aiiitin;^st
tlie fo-.iis id" Keildeii l'enin>iila may he ineiitioiieil /'rodnrh's
iiiixolduii .:, /'. fiisl III II s, Stii I'l 1 1)' in'illis, S, <l H til ii'dt ii , Ziljili-
ii'iil'is Voo' ('ill I iidi'icit. It is worthy of note that, liad the
st rike »d" t he aliove liiiiest<»iies changed in direct ioii iiort liwar:!^,
it would pitdialily have heeii noticed hythe sledi>-e parties
that exaiiiiiietj the coast vast and west of this tract, and that.
-siiiniii'
th
an
le strike contiiines over the Polar
area, a
proloi^at ion of the (rend of these limestones would pass
throiij^-h Spit<l>eri;'eii, where this formation has lieeii recon-
liizt'd, and c-ontains some identical species.
In the Carhoiiiferoiis liimestones occur a j^roiip of cephalo-
poda, eiicrinites and corals, that, Jiid^in^^- hy their analoj;ues
III t
jiidarv rocks, would indicate a warm climate; and
unless the coral>, which all heloiio- to the I'aheozoic types (tf
the Ivnjjfosa and Tahiilata corals, had inarvtdloiis powers of
adaptation to dit't'ereiit climates, they prove a more eijuahle
climate in tiie wmld than exists at the present time, and
when taken with the fact that the plants of the ' I'rsa stai;-e"'
of the Arctic regions lived liefore the deposition of the moun-
tain limestone in that area, and doiihtless in other areas,
and reappeared in 1 he coal measures overlviiiL;' those limestones
in Kiiroi>e and North America, the siippo.-it ion t hat an e(piahle
warm moist climate overspread a larm' surface of the niolie
during' the whole (d'tlie carlioniferoiis era hccoines soinethiiiii'
slrttnu'cr than even a working' hyputiiesis.
\\
\... w
(ii;<>L<t(;v.
M •> •»
The Aift ic arci jiud Noit li l'];i>tfrii Aiiicii';i arr in;irk d liy
an ali-i'iicc (if Permian loeks ; and it i> wnrtliy ut" note that
llie >trata of thi-< a^e, ((eennin:;- in Kansa-, eiin>i^t <>\' ecni-
^loMierates, shales with f(i--ii> allii'il to tliMM' of the enal
iiieasiii'es, ami he Is of ^y|»^nin rotini;' cnnforinahly on t he
(•arh,)iiiferoiis indieat iiii;- shaihiw watei', |tiit;dniity of laml,
iui'l lacustrine or inlaml sea eoinlitions. ( )ur limited know-
led;;'e of the Arctic regions renders it doulitfnl u liethei- t he
al»-:ence of the I'ermiau in the northern area indicates that,
after the deposit ion of the carhoniferons limestone, the sea
])»ttom was upheaved, and formeil continental land until the
liiassic era, or whether the coal nieasiu'es, I'ermian and
Triassic strata, were (le|»'><ile 1 or afterwards denuded, hefore
til ■ deposition of the lias rest in^^' (»n the carl) miferous lime-
stone of l'',L;lint")U Isle. Thi-.t the former sei|Uence occuired
is supported by the a))-;ence of the Triassic strata in the
J*arry Archipehii^o.
Ill Atnerica, the carh »niferous rocks expeiMeiiced a peiiod
of pliysic'iil (listm'l)aiice, throwiu'^- them into folds and plica-
tions, Jiappeiiini;' in pre-ti'iassic times as in iMinland, the
trias lyin^ on the upturned and denuded eiloes of the
American carljoniferous.
There would appear to h.' littU'douht that the dip ohserv-
al)le in the carljoiiiferous limestone of the Parry ArehipelaL>o
was o])taiiied before tlu' deposition of the lias, which occurs
directly upon it at various levels ; and it would appear to
b;' more probable that the trias was never di>i)osite(l over this
urea, than that it had b;'en formed a;id denuded away in the
era intervening bet ween plication of the carboniferous and the
subsidence of the land beneath the liassie sea.
TiniTlAliY RocivS. Mioceitc — Resting uucoid'ormably on the
azoic schists of Water-course liay, on the west side of Snnth
Sound, in the vii'inity of Discovery Harbour, where the
'Discovery' wintered 1874-6, occurs a bed of coal from twcnt v-
five to thirty feet in thickness, overlaid by tine-grained hiack
shale and sandstone from which plant remains were collected
f '. ! lii
li'
ill:' ri
Ai'i'i:.\iii.\.
Nu. W
Wi
■ Mi
«Vi
li\ l'\'ilili'li, tlirsc slllllr- i'ImxIv rcM'inlil iliL; lllii>c (if ('iljic
St;ir;itscliiii. in tln' ice timil (tf S|iit>lirri;vii.
'I'lif sli'iitii ;iit' l;ii(l Iciir in ;i (|if|» L;nll\ cNr.-ixMft'd liv
I lie ^t rciini tldwinn' across t lirni, antl arc x rn In dip tnuard-
tilt' cast at tell decrees. Ovcrlvin^- the tiTtiarv dr|»ci>it>
occur licds (if tine mud and «;lacial drift, witli w('Il-|(icsci vcd
shells (if nmlluM'a >if s|ieeies now living' in tlie neinld)i»urin;;
seas.
• ucli as Sii.riiiini. and Axlurh', wliieli licils rise ti
ilci'dlt of no less tlian I,(KK) feet aliiVe the sea-level. iiroviuL'-
a sulMneii;-ence of t lie li^'uite and idant-liearin^ heds to I hat
amount, and a sidise(nient re-elevation.
\Wi\<^ with |)lant-lie;irint;- >hales iiiav |ios>il)lv occur in
other parts of (irinnell liand not visited liy the Kxpedition,
and those of Discoverv J>ay were not recooui/A'(| until a
period which only permitted a few visits to that interesting-
locality. J[(iwever, a collection was made of thirty species, of
wliicli eighteen are known to he comnion to the Miocini'
deposits of the Arctic Zone, seventeen of I nem occiu'riu^' in
Si)its]icri;'en, an<l eiL;lit in (ireenland : the flora of the
(irinnell liand Miocene, tlierefore, more closely approximatiui;-
to that of Spitsbergen, lyini; IV to 4"" of latitude further south,
than to that of (Ireenland, >i( iiated 11' further south. Six
^pecies are coniniou to Miirope. foin' to Ami'iica (Ala>ka). two
to Asia.
'J"he muddy shore of a sea or ii\cr is indicated hv /:,'(/
II I SI''
flint <i rrficii III. Hr.. of (irinnell hand and Kin^' Hav, Spits-
lier^.'U. and, presumiuL;' it hai' a similar hahitat, its nearest ally
to Eijiiisi't II III li iiiiisii III. Lin. Conifers in lioth these districts
hold the tirst plai-c, four families with the species occurrinein
(irinnell liand. Tanlliit rif/iidi, Hr., must have Iteeii very
ahundant ; it was previously only known, in a fraL>iuentaiv
condition, tVom Cajic Staratschin in Spitslierj^cn. It is
allied to the ^'cuus I'lm inrnji.-is of the oolitic Hrown ,lura,
\v
liich forms a link hetween the Curiddlis (A' tlu' carl
)oin-
ferous and the Tun/lie of the Arctic Terti;
n'\ ,
w
Td.i'oili 'I III i/is/iili n III iiiiiinnii III is most aliuudaut, and
ell-preserved male Howeis. rcsemhlin^- those of Spitsher^vn,
iS; •■
Nu. W.
f;i;<>i,«Ki V
;;;;:)
"iiTiii. wliili' till' '^iiiii^ i- ii'»\v I'tiitiii'Ml to Mcxiiii Mill! tlic
Siilllll of lllr rililnl St.ltc-.
'I'lif (li-(u\( r\ ut" tun t\si'4» "^ '!"■ N"i\v.iv spriin' (I'iinis
iih'iis) willi Iciivi -. ill ( i I'iiiiirll l/iinl. i» iif ^icMl iiitcicsl, ;!•!
siiiMc iii(;i'4i(' ti.icc-nf ii li.il |n«\ iiiii<l\- li-cii ici'civfil t'nim
Spitsht Tj^ciu Mill I till' >|t((iis<l<>iilit li»- ixtfiitlril,iii till- |»n'\ ioiis
|H'ri<>i|, ;is t';ii' ;i< tlir I*<>lc, it' ;it tli;it <)»i»i|i laiiil fxtrii'lcil s i t';ir.
'I'lic 111 II lie lit' t hi- till" \va> i\ iili-iitU ill tin- imil li. ;mi<I in Miu-
<(iir I iims it (jitiiht l(-.> liirl nut t r.ivilliil ;i- tar -uiiI li a- l']iirii|»r,
its first a|»|M'araiii-<' lii-in^ in tin- Nurtnlk l-'mi-t-lti'd. aii'l tin-
iiiti rulacial lii;iiitrs ut" Swilznlaii'l. 'riiDii^li inn\ a |triiK'i|tal
ciiiist it unit lit' iHir t"iiif>t>. its «-.\tninc nurtlicrn limit is in
Scandinavia, in lat it iidi' ^V.))i' N., and tium tlifiicc s|tria I- ii\rr
t went V-ti\r dtLJI't"''- "t lat it II If. tll<ill'4ll rolltilHMl •" M iiM'i'lli'
times til tllf Antii- '/,'\\\r ; wliiit- T'l.roil i n m i(i>il ii-li II ,11, lluW
cDiifiiii'd til SI) small an an-a. in .Mi-nMiir tinir- ii\crs|»rca(l
the nmtlirrn lirini>|»luTr tinn iciitial Italy tu S^" N.
The .Ml nil 1(1 it vk'ili 111-. yV» ;•<('///( i/ix </-/<//<'// /t.s/N, l>r., and
('iii'i'.i' iioii rsiKil.-i'iiKi-', III"., lit" (iiiiiiirll l/ind. (iii'rnland, and
S|iitsl»!'iiL;»'ii, iiidicatf dam|) I'Malitic- with lii|> and s('di>cs,
the t'liiincr lit' a laij^c sizi- with iiarruw jiavt-s and a mid-rili.
Six t'amilii's iif IMcut \ li-dun- in-i-ur. tin- niurc ahiindant
s|ircics liriii;;' /'uyc'/o- n rrt i,;i , Hr.. uhiili raiiL;t' tliriiiii;ji
tin- whiilf Aitt ic /'inc. The jHc-cncc lit' lai^t' s|»ccinicns (if
hark t'lmn (irinmll Land uf liifn/ii prisni [miim' that trees ut"
the hircli attaiiit'ii a cun-ideratilc size. Leaves and tinit ut"
lii'hilii hri>ii;/iii<ir/i, Mtt.. cmilil al»<> lie idciit itied, t he s[)ecies
a'^recin^' with the s|iecimen- tiuiii S|iitsl»eri;«'ii.
Tlie Ciriniicll Land lii^nite indicates .1 thick peat moss,
with proltalilv a -mall lake, with water lilies on the snrt'ace
(if the water, and lecds mi the e(l'^es. and liirches and pnplais,
and taxiidias, mi the tiank-. with pines, tirs. spruce elms, and
liazi'l hushes mi the iieiohh luriiiLC hills. Fmtlier le-eaich of
these reinarkahle he Is wmild duiihtle.is affmd a rich harvest
of ve:;-etahle ii'iiiaiiis, and p 1— ihly th f a vcrtehiate
fauna, as well as uf the insect- that pmlKihly tenanted the
fiirest ; lint at pre-eiit the elytrun <»f a Icefle {( 'iiriihids
f'i'il<li'ni<i.iiU'^, Hr. ) atte-t- their furiiii-r pre-eiice.
h"i
>l .1 , •
AIMM.MHX.
Nu. W
If l;iii(l> tnriiicrl\('\tciii|c(l In tlir I'olt', llicy wiTc |in>-
li;il)l\ CMVcrcil witli tlior Aictir I'orcsls. Tlic cliiiiiil if dit-
irrciifcs iiidicMlcd hv llic il'>i;i of llii- imrtli and west part of
S|iitsltfri;('ii (Kiii^^-'s llav and Ice I''iiif(l) (<• tliat (tf Discn
Island and l-'ininark an- still niuic appairnt in (Mtiniiarin!;'
the latt
cr \vi
til tlial (if (irinnc'l Land, wliicli indicates tli
I)
anic coiidit ii>ii> as Sj)i1slirri;tn,, wliicli, liionuli colder tlian
as tlie water lily pioves
ISv-ll,
was evident Iv not Arctic
fresli water, water that must have remained open for ih*'
l^reater part (»f tlie veai", and the Td.rinll n ni d'isl icliinii can-
not Ite now <>o1 to L-idw nnart iiiciallv in Christ iania, and is
only maintained in northern (iermany liy cultivation.
Ivxistin^- I'epresentat ive Arctic plants are wanting;' in the
(irinnell Land Mioceues, l)Ut most of the j;-enera occurring;' in
them still exist within the Arctic Zone, hut all of them have
their present lindt, at least, from twelve to fifteen dej^rct'.'-;
fuitlier south, only h'<jii isi-hi m^ ('tii-<\r, and I'hjiiiIiik ex-
tendinj;- lieyond Hf N. : of the remainder, Plnn.-< <ihii\s ceasr'fi
at 69° J^O' ; P/ir<ii/niilts iumiiini nis at ()9° 45' in Finmark ;
Corf/hiK itrilld 11(1 in (!7^ .')(!' -. limns monfiiini in ()()° 59', and
cultivated to nearly 7()^ in Norwa.y.
The writers are indebted to Professor Oswald lleer of
Zurich for the following- determination of tlie fossil rt'inaiiis
from the Miocene shales of (irinnell I^and : —
mi
Pj.ANT.K.
K(jn )s('l II III iircficuiii, l\v.
,, n.sfiifuiii. Hi.
Torrl/iii rl(/iil((,, llr.
„ iiKi/or, Hv.
„ l)ifiil(i, ][r.
„ iiKissland, Hr.
TlniUi's I'liroistiuinll, Hr. ?
T((xu(l'iu)a ilisficliiihi 'iiiioceiium.
Piiitrs fcildcniiiiiii. Hr.
„ pohii'is^ Hr.
X". xv. (ii:(H,()(;v.
Piiiiiei <i')i('s, Linn.
„ (lirksoiiiii ini., Mr.
„ h(U/eft!<uui, ]lv.
Phror/mlti'K hall id ml, Hr.
„ w)iln;/<')i>il>i, AI. ]h.
(JdHlltiUvH articiis, \[\\
Ciwex Hourijsonkeitsis, Hr.
Tr'idium gros)ilaii(llruni, Hr. ?
Populux arcfiat, Hi'.
Populus fadilncki, Hr.
Siillx up.
Ih'fiihi pr'iHCii, VA\.
„ bi'oiKjniiirti, VA\.
CoryluH macqiKirrH, Korlws.
„ Ills!;/ II is, Hr.
U/muti boreal is, Hr.
Viharnuhi lumlniskifildi, Hr.
N>/)iiithiV(i (ircfii.u, Hr.
y'V//(/ riiahi)f/reiii, Hr.
Phjfliii's fofjopi/rin us, Hr.
O >l ■»
rsf
Insi;cta.
Carahifes feildeiiianus, Hr.
Mr. K. J. IMoss, F.C.S., lias recently examini'd n specimen
of tile coal from tlie winter-quarters of the ' Discover}^,'
deposited in the Museum of Science and Art, Dublin, and
found it to possess the lustre and fracture of j>-ood liitununous
coal, to cake when heated, and to havi' Gl per cent, of coherent
coke. It contains : —
Carbon 75-41)
Hydroo't'ii .
Oxyfi^en and nitrogen.
!Sul[)liur .
Ash . . . .
Water
5M)()
y-H!)
t)'49
2-01
lOO'UO
1 . f|
VOL. II.
m
I M
. i
', J '
'lit
Al'I'l'l-NDlX.
No. XV.
Kxchulin<j walcr, siilplmr, iiiid ;i*li, its <'oin]i<)>it inns arc :-
. 10 H7
lOO.OO
Ilydnincn .
( ),\yn('ii and nit roi^tii .
Its a-li ('(iiitains 7*.')S per cent, of jn)tasli, a quantity un-
u>uallv larufc ; and Mr. Moss coinpanvs t lie clu'iiiical composi-
tion of llic coal to tlic lliick era of tlic carltonifcrous of
tlic liay of h'undy, Nova Scotia, and to a lignite of Miocene
a"'e in llic Island <»f Sardinia, containin-j; H2'2(! of carbon.'
Tlie specific i^ravity of tlie (niiiiiell Land coal is 1*3,
corresponding- to tliose from Disco, tlion^li it differs in con-
taininti' so mncli larjicr an amonnt of carhon.
l-'roni the !iri;e nnnilxr of analyses made l»y ]Mr. A.
Marvine of llie U. S. Snrvey of the Territories of the Lignites
of the Western States,'^ it appears they resendiie tlie Cirinnell
liand coal in their compact character, blai'k colotu' and
sliiniii"' lustre, rcsemhlin!'- that of l)ittnninons coals: the ash
is low, seldom reachin<^ G ])er cent., whili' the sidphur is
u-encrally less than 2 ]»er cent. Volatile products evolved
lielow a didl red heat usually vary from 25 to 37 per cent.,
whiK' fixed carbon lies between 45 and (10 per cent., indi-
catin>;' cpialitics aliove those of ordinary Kiudpean brown
coals or ]ii;-nite, but containing- less carl)on than the true
bituminous coal of (iriimell Land.
The extensive tracts of Cretneeous and Tertiary rocks
ranniiii^- from the (lulf of Mexico to Vaneouver Lsland, and
occ\i]tyini;- so lary-c an area in the centre of Xorth America,
have ])een shown to consist of an unln-oken scfpience, without
a.iy physical break, but contain a succession of distinct floras,
the details and relative a<;e of which have l)een so ably worked
' On tlio clieniioal Cdiiijiositioii of tlio coal discoverod by tlip Arctic
I'^iicdition of l87o-(3. — ' Seieiititic Proc. of tlio Royal Dublin Hoc.
IS'
C]1C
77,
» 'Report of tlin U. S. di^ob find rtoojr. Survey of tlie Tt>rritorir
Wn.sliin|rton, 1^74. p. 11:
Nil. X\.
fiKOLOfiY.
f I . > , F
niit ill till' iii:it;iiilicciit Vdliiino |iulili>lic(l liy llic l'. S. (im-
Idlficiil SiirvfV <»t' tlic Ten ilf (lies, cniitjiiiiiii^' the rcMiirclics of
l*n)f<'ss(irs Leu Lrs(|ii(iiiix, .Mnk, M iidj^c, I)!<. Jlavdfu u\u\
NcwlM-rry, ;ui(l dtlicrs.
Tlic Hni'M of llic liibc of llic Crcf nccoiis of Anicrii'M, llic
Diikot.-i ^roii|), liiis i)iii'.'li in cohiimoii witli tlic (in-ciiliunl
rpptT ("n'l.'K'cous Floni, some of tlic twciit y-cinlil spfcirs
(k'tcriniiicd l»y Prof, llrcr iMiii^- idt-iil ical. Tlic viist rxlciil
jind lioinoM-ciicousiicss of tlw forinutioii in Aincricii point to a
inariiit' d<'|Hisit, formed diiriiii;' a period of sul)sideiiee, followet'
]»y a joiii;' stationary era, experiencing' a land cliniate — dry,
and proportionally cold.
The marine forms, wliicli occur in the Dakota |L>ronp, and
which have so larj^c a development in the overlyin;^- Iteds, are
a])seiit in the (Jreenland heds, and the liowcr Cretaceous flora
appears to lie unrepresented in North America, pointing;' to a
loii«i^ and iinhrokeii continental e)»oili in tlie Arctic Circle,
raiioiiie' throiiu'li the entire Cretaceous and Tci'tiai'v eras. In
the overlyin;^' Ainericiin Koceiies occur types of plants, oc-
currini;" in the European Miocenes, and still liviii;^-, proving;'
the truth of Professor Les({uereux*s postulate that the plant
t)'pes appear in America a sta;^-e in advance of their advent
in Europe. These jdants jioint to a far higher mean tem-
perature than those of the Dakota j;Toup, to a dense atmo-
sphere of vapour, and ;i luxuriance of ferns and j)alms. The
suhtrnpical flora of the Eocene Tertiary lioiiitic orou]» is
ahseiit ill the Arctic lands, though a certain amount of miiiulinu-
<^f temperate forms occurs; these, however, conic in threat
force in the overlyiiin- Lower Miocene })eds, many of the sjiecies
iH'iiiu- eominoii to the Greenland and Mackenzie rocks of that
a<(e, and some of them reapju-ariiiin- in the plant-l)earinn' shales
of Grinnell liand ; the successive Miocene deposits pointing'
to a eradual loweriiij^' of the mean tem|)eiature.
Tlie Anu'rican origin of the Miocene Hora of Euroju', as
Dr. Newlierry points out, is stroiioly supported l)y the occur-
rence of the plant Oiiiii'li'ti si'iisihllls (Fcllrifi's Iwhi'ldiciis
of Forbes), discovered loii^' Jii;(» hy the Duke of Arnyll in tlie
' 1 1
v;.i
t'-i
10
Ari'KMUX.
w
.■l«l
^!i
v;
t |;b
ST!
Ir;it-lic(ls (if Mull ill the Aiiit'riciiii ti'iii;iri<
iiinl III' suLjy;«'sls
llial till' l('lll|irr;ilf tlnr;i. \s liicll (llciNC llir W;irillrr Kucflir Ijiiril
til tlir siilltll Mild r:i>t of l"]lirii|ic. 1 rilVi'llril liy W.iy nf (ilTrll-
hlllij, ii'i'lilllil, mill t lir llrliriilrs.
Ill .Miiii'i'iir tiiiifs tlir i'liiii;itc uf ( irrriihiinl ami Alaska
was tliat i»f New York and St. liOiiis, wliilr, in tin- siiccfcdini;"
H-lacial era, tlir cliiiiatr imw exist iiij^- in (iii't'iilaiid i-anir
diiwii til thr latitiidr uf Xrw Viifk, a cnld triii jirrati' cliiiiatc
|(ifvailrd in .Mrxim, iiitn wliicli tlic advaiiiMiiL"' cnld fnrcrd
tlii'lirrds iif niaininals uliirli cDVcri'd llir plains uf Nmtli
Anuriia, wlirii' tliry were nearly all exleniiinated.
(ihu'iiillttii, — hnriiii;' the tliaw pnidiieed by tlie sliurl
('pisude of wainitli that re|)i<'sents in the Aretie regions the
smniner of other lands, snh-aerial denndat imi of the surface
if
of the cliHs takes place on a L;'i,n'aiitic scale, vast niassi
rock fall from the clitfs, and form a tains concealing;- their
hase, like the 'screes' of the I'ainlish i/ike District.
On t
le I'lose o
f the transient summer the rocks are satu-
rated with moisture, cleavei
d slat
e c
I iff
s am
1 tl
le loose niaterial
formiii"- the ' screes ' heiiiL!' alike charii'i'd with water to their
utmost capacity; without any warn in j;' or j^rai
Inal
MMioacii
winter conditions appear, and the face of nature is clian;;ed
in a few hours ; moisture atid runniiiin- water art? converted
.f
into lee, which in process ot expansion exercise a destnutive
force on the rocks which is
hardly
comitaralile wi
hU
itii tl
le snh-
aerial denudation i;'>in,L;' on in more temperate climes; and on
the tiist appearance of thaw, masses of rock, se|)aratlni;- aloii:;-
lines of weakness formed by planes of Joint iiii;- and hed(lill^•,
are detached from the clitf, and falling;' on the snow-covered
' screi'S ' slide down to the ice-fout beneath, the impetus beiiio-
often sufficient to carry them on to the H
IK', where they
remain un
tiltl
icy an
carried seaward on the m-neral break-
UJ)
.f tl
le ice
rill' ice-foot is built up not so much by the act of freeziiu
)f tl
k; si
a-water in contact with the I'oast, as by the accunm-
lation of the autumn snow-fall, which (lriftin<;- to the beach is
met by the sea-water at a ti'iiipeiature below the freeziiii;' point
Nm w.
dOLOllN
:;4l
of tVrsli-\v;itir ;iii(l iii>l;iiit;iiirMii-l\ i> <n|i\( 1 1« d '\\\\<i icf, jilld
fiil'IIIS ;i solid u:ill t'lnlil tlir iMittum ,i\' tlic >(';i ll|iu;i|i|> imd
ilicrr;i>ili;; ill licij^lit MS tlir .-.liuw t';i!l>.
W'lini tlir ' sc;is(tii Hoc," (ir \omin '\ci\ is lirsf tomifd tlicic
is little dill'clfUct' in tlic level of tlie Hue and tliilt i>t" tlie iei -
foot, hill ,(s the latter is constaiillv ineita.-ii:;; in height,
while the former is dail\ <i.-eillat iijo- uiih iiKiveiiieiit of the
tides, a junction of the two ne\tr takes plaii' : \'<>y the height
of the surface of the ice-font almve the level i >f hii;h-w at er is
mainly de|tendent on the anioinit of .-now -fall, while its
de|»th helow that level is de|»eiideiit ii|iiiii the-.|cp|ir nf the
sea-hottom and the vertical ranijeof the t ide>.
liike the heaches of more tem|ierate legions, the i( c-fout
is ahsent on exposed and |(rojeetini; headland-, and it i> lie>t
develo|>ed in the swe<'|»inn cnives and iletptr ha\sof the
fuast-line. Its typical aspect in Smith Sound i> a flat
terrace 50 to 100 yards in hr-adth, stretching; froni the hasc
of the 'scree" to the sea-niar^in, its width, \aryin^- with the
slope of the sea-hottom, dccreasini; in direct jiroportion to
the increase of the land slope.
When the solar rays exert tlu'ir forct-, the ,-nou forming- the
Uj)per layer <d' the ice-foot lyin^- n(arest to the ' scree ' is lii>t
melted, owin<;' to the dark surface of the tains ahsorltiiiL;- heat,
and a deepticneh is formed, which hecomes tilled with water,
received fntm the (difls ahovc, and derivcfl from the nieltinj^'
of the snow below ; these united streams soon cut deep
channels in the ice, and make their way to the sea throu;;h
transverse nulUi's, often exposing;' the rock heneath, which at
low-water hecome dry, hut tilled with sea-water on the
return of the tide, which rushing' through the apertures
with oreat violence, swee])S rinht and left, oci'Upies the
ditch at the face of the talus, and reasserts its materials.
These fall to the hottom, ami form the old sea margins,
which, throuj>h the uradual rise of the land, form a cha-
raeteristic series of successive terraces at various elevations up
to 200 or 300 feet, especially in sheltered liays and inlt ts,
and occasionally in positions where wave-action was impossihle.
i!
M'f
)i
\2
AI'IT.NI'r.V.
\v
Tl
lot- IniiU'c
were (ImiIiI |.>-. t'l II iiit-rly imuli inure cuntiimnus
tliaii :it |ii'r^i'iit, hilci' (Iriiiidat iiiii liaviii'^ tloti'uvt'd |iiii'tiuus nf
llinii: lull till' uuiiiii'iiiis tViii;iii<-iito tliut rniiiiin, |trfsci'Vr(|
\Vi
\ :i |iiiilcit i\c >iiuu iiiiiiil li , arc «iinuiciit fn >liii\\ lliat tlnv
IT iiijiiird l)\ ilii' |»iiMc»fs iiMW ill |jr<t;;rc»s nf n|HTal inii.
Tile iiiiiil ami >ainl-lMtls ftnim il diiriii;; tlic carlici' >la;;;t'
of it|)lii aval art' carrii'd down li\ >iiiiiiii<'i- turn'itts, ami (li>-
<liain<d into tiunls and aims ttf tin- >ta ; tin- li*at*-d and t iirl>id
watns int'lliiii;' I lie fl"<s Iviii;;; around tin- tlt-lta, and ciiiisiii'^'
it til discliar;^f its tVcii;lil of stunt's am! -;ravfl intti tlif iniid-
lir(U lii'iiiat li, iiilii \s liii'li also tall tin- -lulls of tlit- tmilliisca
iiilialtitiiii;' till' iua>t. 'I'lu-c imid-lN-il- mi tlif n|»lii'aval of
till' tiiiiiitr\ ail' tiivi'ii'd liy sirtaiii-atlioii with uiifossilifci'tiiis
j;ravtls, wliitli, tn^i't ln-r uitli tin- niiid-ln'ils, uftt'n fiuin ii
tliiiknt'.ss in tin- valleys ot'iJOO ur :J00 tut.
Tilt' sn|iit'ni t' t'Mimit inn is tiin>tant ly rr|»t'ati'd as tin-
rise lit' the land gradually i^ms mi ; tin- turliid niattiT in the
HiinuiH'r tmrciit is |iri'(i|iitatiil, tin- tli-lta iiifn-asfs in tliiek-
iic;:
until t III' liav i;
till ii|i li\ .1 liar a<Toss it in ^reat
incasnrt' tliniwn 11)1 l'> t lie irif-i-t ilile jirf>^urf of the I'olar
pat'k cxtTti'd on tlir
liir^<, wliiili liinif< tlifin tlt'i'|» in tin-
)ft material, and t1irii>ts it up into a Iku' ; anti tlie hav
hecollies a la
ke. loll
|»lieaval emit inuin'^, tile waters seek an out-
let ; a passage t liroiii;| I tlie harrier i- eiif, the waters cjf the lakf
are lowered, and ex pa uses of mud, >t re well with Mf/a f rn iiiudd,
iSd.cicui'a fii;/<>f<ii, Aslnrh' lutriiilis^wn' ixposetl. This surfaco
durinn' ten mouths of tlK'year is fio/eii as jianl as any rock, but
tluriu;4' the thaw episode is t'Xpo>ed to exten^ive tlenudatiou.
and its materials earrietl down to lower levels.
Till' niolluscan fauna, fouud in the «;laeio-marint' dt-posits
of (irimiell Land ami North (ireeulaiitl at various levels up
to 1,()()() feet altove the present sea-level, is |»natieally ickniti-
cal with that now liviii!'' in the nei''hl»ourin;j: sea, and thf
species Pi'chui (/ruenldiKlicus, M>/ti tru iinifii, and S(i.rlc<ir(i
raijosK are aiikt- most abundant ui tiie in<Mleri: <eas, a
th
th
ind in
th
U' older mutl-l)etls ; and it is espeeially wor
thv of note, as
iudieatiuij^ the coiuparatively modern elevation of this coast-
T
No. W.
<;ixii,u(iV.
• ) to
\'
line, tliat sti'iiis of two .>-|K'ci«'.t t»f L<i III! inn l<i, wliirli ^mw in
(-<tii>iil)-riiiili- ;tliiiii(laii('(' in the I'liliir r>c:i, (icciii in ilir niud-
In-(|s at i-livalioiis of 200 tret, >t ill rctnininL; tinii pn iilinr
hfa-slloli- ihIiiIII'.
('ouiffrou> wiHitl, >till rclainiii;; its luinsaiicv, occius at ( Ic-
vatioiis of sfvrral linndn-tl feet, of a prt'ciscly similar cliaracttT
to tliat MOW iK-iiin^ stiandi'd on t lie rvi-t ini;- coast-lint. No
cvidfurt' was disfovert'd in tlir nind-lwds of (irimicll Land to
t'licouraj;)' tlif idfii tliat any of tlicsf tn-fs luid nri»wii in stln,
or that durinj.( tlic period occiipicd l»y tlic eh v.itioii of tliis t ract
of (oiiiitry a tliou>antl fctt, it had cxiu'rirnct i an intcr^Iaiial
period dnriiiLj whirh >nv\\ trees iiiiLiiit have tli nri>lied.
Sea-ice moved np and down hy tid i aetit/ii, or d' .11 on
shop- Ity ;^ales, was found to he a \ "ry potent a^. nt in tlir
g'hu'i.ition of riK'ks and pelililes; the wor' ua> >een in
proMrc.s aloiiij the shores of the I'olar IJasin,' 'at the soiitli
end ..f a small i>lan(l in HIaekelitV Hay, lat. S'>"M)' N., the
iMjttolUS of tlie hummoek>, some eigjit to Hfteen feet lliick,
were studded with hard limestone pehhles, which wiun ex-
tracted from the ice wcR' found to lie rounded and m ratclicd
on the expo>ed >urface only.'
(.)n .-helvin;^ .-hores, as the tide recedes, the hummocks,
slidin^j^ uver the subjacent mati-rial down to a position of
rest, make a well-maiked and peculiar sound, ronltin;^;' from
the ;^rating of included pehhles, with the rocky floor lieiieath,
or in some cases on other pebbles ineluvled in drift overlyinj^*
the r<»ck.
The rock >uiface at considerable elevations, In'tween ;;ajt.s
in the lines of old terrace, is often found to be olai'iated ; and
there can 1m* little (loul)t that this olaciat ion was produced
l»y shore-ice, during el>bing- of tlie tide, when the land stood
lower than at present ; and the condition uf the terrace pre-
cludes the idea of j^lacier action.
The aljsence of an ice-cap in (irinnell F.and, and tiie
paucity <jf the "glaciers in that reoion, are worthy of note, none
desceudinj; to the sea-level north of 81°; while vu the >aiae
' FeildtMis MSS. Journal.
<lri
m
< 1:
!-^
!-'«
i;.f
344
APri:xi)ix.
X(.. XV
Mi
parallel on the opposite coast of Hall Basin, on tlic GrcfMilanrl
coast, the country is ice-dad to the v ater's e<l<;e.
Petcrinann Fiord is dcscrihcd l>y Dr. ('i>ppiiit;-er as
Ixnmded ])y vertical cliffs, of fossilifcrdus (Silurian) limestone
rock, 1,100 feet in heioht, surmounted by an iee-cap, which
flows steadily over the cliffs, from which it lianas in y;i<>antie
masses, which from time to time fall in a series of avalanches,
carryino- with them rocks torn from the face of the cliff,
and precipitate them on the floe beneath.
The surface of the floe is traversed by deep wave-like
furrows, thirty feet in depth, moving^ obliquely across it,
and exceedin<>"ly difficult to traverse, especially where lateral
glaciers come in, and break the continuity of the ri(l<;es,
and separate them by wide fissures and gaps. The ice
lirought down by these lateral j^aps affects but little the
volume of the immense <>lacier flowing- down from the eastern
coxmtry, which appears to have formerly filled the entire
valley.
The continuity of th* mollu><can fauna to the Grinnell
Land mud-beds with those now living on the coast, already
referred to, points to a miiformity of climatal conditions
prevailing, through a period marked by considi-rable physical
change, in the rehitive proportions of sea and land in the
North Polar area, * lianges which appear to have alike unin-
fluenced the molluscan fauna of the seas and the mammalian
fauna of the land ; the mud-beds having afl'orded bones of the
lennning {Myudes torqmdiLs), the ringed seal {Phoca his-
pUla), the reindeer, and the musk-ox (pr'thos moi<chatHs).
The greater precipitation of snow on the east coast o^ the
basin, and consequent greater size of the effluent glaciers,
and more extensive work of glaciation affected, appear to
have long gone on, and to have been formerly more important
than now ; but the conditions do not ever appear to have
been so rigorous as to preclude the existence of animals, and
the somewhat local character of the more extensive o-laciation
is worthy of note, as throwing some light on the origin ' of
areas of no glaciation,' in portions of the British Isles, and as
i'iJ: -.1
So. XV.
GEOI/)rTY.
;)45
lit'li)iiig to explain tlie oct'iirrence of a fiuina in glacial
deposits, thought by some to indicate an interglaeial episode
in the last British Glacial era.
We will not enter into the question whether the area,
embraced by the conditions which caused the glaciation of
l^ritain, included the Arctic area, nor as to the causes, geogra-
phical, astronomical, or physical, that led to it ; but we think
it worthy of note that no records of former glacial episodes
have yet been discovered in the Polar lands, which were
tenanted by the molluscs of the Silurian, Carboniferous,
Liassic, and Oolitic seas, and its land covered with the rich
vegetation of the ' Ursa stage,' and of the Cretacean and
jNIiocene eras.
The fauna and flora of the Arctic Pakcozoic and older
Secondary rocks }>oint to a uniformity of conditions of temper-
ature, climate does not appear to have existed, in the ordinary
sense of the word, as temperature of the air atiected by local
geographical conditions ; the striking imiformity of c(^)ndition
appears to have been mduoken up to the close of the
Secondary Epoch.
iff
1 JijJ
;•!,?!>
Hi
m
340
AITENDIX.
N«. XVI.
No. XVI.
liEroPiT OX ri:TEinrAXN glacief.
By Richakd AV. Coppinger, M.D.,
fStalt .Surgeon lltiyal Navy.
iM 4^
"t:"
l»^
i*'il
The party uiuler the command of Lieutenant Fulfonl, to
whicli I was attached, started from Thank God HarlKUir on
May 22, 187(5, and on the second ^Durney rounded Cape
Tyson and entered the fiord. On leaving- Cape Tyson and
Offley Ishmd, which were considered to mark the north-
east side of the mouth of the fiord, we saw some miles before
us an alirupt, precipitous wall of ice, extending- in an ir-
regidarly wavy but uidiroken line from shore to shore.
When we had got about ten nules .S.S.E. of Offley Island, the
yoimg floe on which we had Ix'en tiavelling terminated, and
was connected through the intervention of a hummock hedge
with an old glassy-hunnnocked floe, over which we proceeded
until we reached the margin of the heavy ice above mentioned.
There at eleven and a half miles S.S.E. of Offley Island,
and alK)ut 1,000 yards from the high precipitous cliffs which
form the north-east sluire of the fiord, we made our second
camp. TIr' old floe on which we camped was rigidly con-
nected with the heavy ice ; in some places the precipitous
and cleanly-fractmed face of the latter meeting the old floe
at a sharp right angle. On examining tlie surface of the
heavy ice, we found it to be totally difierent in character from
that of a floe. It was of glassy smoothness, and so slippery
\(). XVI. KKI'OKT ON I'lriKKMANN (JLACIKK.
m:
iind uneven tliiit wiilkinj^- (in tlie ordinary sense of tVie word)
was impossiljle, and to <>et alono- at all it was frequently
neet'ssary to re>ort to erawlin^-. The surface was tliiekly
studded with eireular pits, about six inehes deep, and from out'
t()ei<>hteen inehes in diameter, usually eontaininu- a little snow
and some dark powder. In general eonti|;urati()U the surfaee
of this ice was arrarig-ed for the most part in undulatin*;- rid^-es,
extendhio()bli(juely down the tiord in a northerly and southerly
direction ; ])ut as a rule hiterrupted by wide Hssinvs and
faults, so that few of the ridj;es were directly continuous for
u <;Teater leni;-th than two miles. The heij^ht from crest to
furrow was usually about thirty feet, and the slope so stee[»
and slippery that in many places it was quite impractica])le
to cross the ridges except by cutting steps, or some such c(jn-
trivance. The furrows, as a rule, had a certain amoimt of
snow-hed, and so far as they went afforded good travelling ;
but where the ice was devoid of snow, not even a dog could
obtain foothold. It is not to be understood from the above
that the ice-surface was everywhere disposed in thes<; great
ridgi's and furrows : for there were many patches from five to
six acres in extent of bare ice exhibiting an irregularly undu-
lating surfiice Trom thirty to thirty-five feet above the water-
level, juid intersected by narrow fissures.
Having explored all the ice within a day's joui'ney of this
camp, and found that l)y keeping for three-quarters of a mile
to the old floe, which sent a tongue under the north-i'ast
cliffs, and taking to a furrow of the glacier ice for another
three-quarters of a mi'e we could advance our position, we
packed up and proceeded.
Our third camp, reached on the 2oth of May, was
thirteen miles from Offiey Island and two hundred yards
from the north-east line of cliffs. Here Taeutenant I'^dford
obtained ' sights ' for latitude. Yvom four miles to the
northward of this position, these cliffs ])resented a vertical
face al)out 1,100 feet high, composed of alternating liands
of light-grey and dark slate-coloiu'ed fossiliferous limestoui'
rock, and from abreast our third canq), were surmounted by
'1:1
a
848
Al'PHNDIX.
N... xvr.
m!
an i(i'-c'n|>, wliiisc l)lur, jii<;<4t'(l c(h^v lyinfjf fliisli wltli tlic face of
tlu' dirt's we cstiiiiiitcd at a thickness of forty feet. The clirts
of lilt' soulli-Wfst slmrc <if tlic Hord pn'scnlcd a similar ic('-ca|»,
l)iit of tiTcatcr extent, as it ]ie<>an alxtnt tvu miles to tlie
soutliwanl of Cape Lueie Alaiii', i.e. on the south sidi' of the
first ^laeier, and was eoul inuous to the southward us far as
the elirts were seen to extend.
Fi'om both sides tlie ice seemed to he flowini;' steadily over
the clirts, as evidenced hy freciuent avahuiches in which ^neat
masses of the ice-cap projectinj^' over the precij)ices became
(U'tached, and carryin;^' with them in their descent masses of
rock torn from the face of the cliffs, came thundering down
to the tioi', marking their rtight liy dense clouds of snf)W, and
accompanied by a long series of echoes, creating a most grand
and imposing spectacle. .Some idea of the force with wliieh
these avalanches came down may be gathered from the fact
that large stones were ])rojected on to the floe to a distance of
eighty yards from the foot of tlie perpendicuhiv walls of rock.
At this third camp, the furthest position to which with
onr disabled sledge and misuitable equipments we could move
t)ur baggage, we spent three days devoted to walking ex-
cursions. The greatest distance up the fiord to which we
could ])roceed was six miles from camp, and to attain this
distance we had to run some risks of fallinu' through hidden
crevasses, and slipping from high ice slopes into water-
chasms ; so that we had to content ourselves with making our
furthi'st look-out point on the summit of an ice-pinnacle
eighteen and a half miles from Offley Ishnid.
Alxjut one ndle from us was the nearest glacier of the
north-east shore, two miles l)ey()nd it a second, and half a mile
further on a third. We had found, as w-e approached these
glaciers, that the main ice of the fiord became more and
more fissured, and that the faults in the continuity of the
ridges and the furrows were more frequent and embarrassing ;
but from the eminence now attained it seemed that these
glaciers were the nuclei of disruptions of the main ice, and
hence the progressively increasing difficulties of travelling.
m
No. XVI. HKrnur ox phtkhmaxx clacii;!:.
nil)
Carrvinj; tlie eve alonufthe nortli-east line of cliffs, w(> saw tin'
land terminate abruptly alndit twenty miles off in a prominent
])luff, and from this jioint to a quarter of the way across the
licad of th(; fiord n(» land was to l>e se«'n, liut the same exfra-
ordinarv nndulatinyf sea of ice which, from the main riducs
lying- in a north and soutii direction, wonhl seem to be flowiui;-
into the fiord in an east to west direction. The fact of our
distinctly seeing those ridj^es at so great a distance was
perhaps due to the gradual shoaling of the water up the
fiord, and the consequent rise in the eh'vation of the ice.
To the south-east a background of land al)out thirty miles
distant was clearly seen exteniling ])ehind, and as it were
overlapping the apparent termination of the south-west line
of cliffs. The latter cliffs presented to the eye an appearance
almost precisely similar to that of the north-east cliffs, and
they seemed to correspond as if originally parts of the samir
land. Bt)th were of aljout e»]ual height, were eipially pie-
cipitous, presented the same arrangement of strata, the same
description of ice-cap; and both were grooved l»y glacieis,
there beinu- four on the south-west side and three on the
north. -east side of the fiord.
When al)out a mile from the nearest glacier we came to
a wide fissiu'e, alK)ut thirty yards l)road, which seemed to
extend nearly across the fiord, and whose precipitous glassy
walls, fifty feet high from liriiik to water, we had no means
of descending. The b<»ttom of this fissure was composed of
treacherous-h)okinf!:, slushv ice. with a lane of dark water
two feet wide ah)ng tlu- middle ; so that had we succeeded
in getting down we .-hould prolxdily have iK'cn mia])U' to
cross. About this same loc-ality were several narrow fissures,
some of which, from the very slippery natm'e of the ice, it
was difficult to avt»id falling into, (Jne of these, in a tolerably
level part of the ice, we found by measm'cment to be two
feet wide above, and twenty-three feet deep, from brink to a
probable false lx)tt<»m of hnise snow, on which the light weight
of our measin-injr line rested.
The ice seemed to be incessantlv crackinu". Whinvver we
c
M iV
a'
ar)0
Ari'KNDIX.
^(). XVI.
m
f:m
frii!'
stof)d wi' licnnl al)'iut cvcrv liiilf minute a noise vnrviny;
between tlie sliarp crack of a \vlii]» and the report of a <;un-
cap, resulting-, as we soon discovered, from tlie formation «)f
tln*ead-like cracks, many yards in len^tli, wliicli formed a
kind of n( twork over tlii' surface of the ice.
The })rliaviour of the water in tlie wide fissures was very
puzzlinn-. It seemed to rise and fall to a certain extent
throuoh the ice, but not enough to account for the whole
tidal movement ; and we were therefore inclined to believe
that the ;;lacier ice was only a^^roimd at certain periods of
the tide, and that it consequently ])ehaved in some respects
like a floe, and in others like grounded ice. Not bein<;-
provided with a soundinji^ line, no estimate of the depth of
any part of tin* fiord was made. HowevcM', to solve the
question as to the existence of a vertical tidal 'uovement in
the ice, Lieutenant Fulford took a si'ries of sextant anolcs
between the summit of the cliff adjoinin<>; oiu' camp and a
marked spot on the ice, and observini>- iit different periods of
the tide, came to the conclusion that there wha a certain
amount of vertical motion.
Having failed t(t get up the fiord by the north-east side to
a greater distance than eigiiteen and a half miles from Offley
Island, Lieutenant Fulford decided on moving roimd })y the
edo-e of the glncit-r ice to the opposite or south-west side, and on
trying there to discover a more practicable route than we had
hitherto encountered. In the latter attem])t, however, we
were disappointed, for after travelling along the floe imder
the south-west cliff's to a distance of thirteen miles from Cape
Lucie Marie, we found the glacier ice jammed right against
the face of the cliffs, and not affording anywhere a practicable
route for our sledge, i^etween the young floe and the glacier
ii-e was a well-marked tidal crack, which extended for three-
fourths of the way across the fiord, that is, as far as the young
fioe and the glacier ice met without the intervention of an
old floe.
On the 3rd of June we commenced our return journey,
and stopping for one day at ( )fflcy Island, had opportunities
No. \VI. KEPOIiT ON I'ETEILMANX Cil.ACIEIl.
;^5i
of collect injjf specimens of Silurian fossils, and of observin;^
the liliicial idaninjrs and scorings which this island exhibits
to a remarkable decree. These scorinj'-s run uniformly from
the summit of tlie island, at its north-east extremity to the
beach at rhe south-west end, oroovinjj^ successive layers of
irrev and black limestone. These layers of rock lie hori-
zontally ; both are fossiliferous, the j^Tcy alK)undinji^ in fossil,
corals, and molluscs, the ))Iack containing- corals, but to a
less extent. The north-east (>xtremity presents an abrupt,
precipitous face, ;)13 feet hij^h, showino- the same arrange-
ment of stratified rock as on the g-laciated slo])e, and closely
corresponding' with the appearance ])resente(l by the opposite
face of Cape Tyson, ont^ mile distant. Sul)sequent obser-
vations at Cape Tyson showed that in j>eological formation it
closely corresponded with Offley Island.
It is manifest from the above that the results of the
Expedition have not been as decisive as couhl be wished, yet
I think enough has been done to justify us in concludino^
that the Petennann Fiord is the outlet of a hu<)(! jrlacicr
stream flowing- probably from the eastward, to which the
j);laciers flowing through the north-east and south-west cliffs
are insignificant tri])utaries, not adding materially to the
main volume oi ice.
In several pa''ticulars this glacier presented features
deviating considerably fnmi the general rule, which, althou<>h
already touched on in this Keport, it may be as "well to sum-
marise as follows : — 1. The absence of onward slidinu" motion,
probably due to the immobility of the floe in the mouth f)f
the fiord, the low gradient of the glacier, and the prolongcnl
cold season. 2. Its partial subjecticm to tidal influence for
more than a mile above the snout. 3. The abscMice of de-
tached bergs below the snout. 4. The diminutive heiirht of
the terminal clift', ranging from sixteen to thirty feet above
the sea-level. 5. The presence of water in the fissures two
miles above the snout, when the me^m altitude was forty
feet. 6. The low gradient of the glacier.
Li
;jo2
APl'KNDIX.
No. XVII.
No. XVI r.
GAMH LIST.
List or Animals i'rocurku in Smith Xoi.Nn and Nortiiwauds nv
Tin; (jRi;\v oi- II.M. Sim. 'Amort,' ijj.;T\vii£x Jiuv i>8, 187r>, and
Ski'TKMBKR 8, 187G.
SlJooics
Seal {Phocii. /ilyntfa)
Walrus (Ti'icficnin roti)iia}'iii<) .
Hare (LrjHis f/lficiti lis)
Musk-ox {OvihitK iiKixr/iitfiis)
Ptarmi-ran (Lt/i/ojjun riijjcgtnii)
Eldur-duck {Siimaterid HpfciahUh
and moUitDihiia) . , . _
Lung-tailed duck {llareldagUmalig)
Bronl goose (Uerniela h'enta) .
Duvekic ( L'ria gryllo)
s:
^
/'
t
w
L.
l^-.
'^,
Z.
^
;*
•1.
t
U
M
%
^
^
X
^
"*"
=
ti
5^kJ
8
12
7
58
« C !-
Hi
'.»
7*)
'■ u a
:, T li
? i >■
51^
Total
a
1
4
1
6
1 8
2
20
3.-)
OiJ
«
—
IS
17
10
;u
1
132
4
'.tii
10
207 j
I
13 i
Xo. xvir.
r,\yu'] i>isT
35;^
hPII
List op ANiMAiiS procitred ix Smith Soit.vd nv the Cuew of II.^f.
Ship ' Uiwoveiiy,' between Ji'ly 2H, is?."), and September 8, 187(5.
Spcfiia
Fox {Mi/jim lii//ojiii.i)
Seal {Phiica harhuta)
Seal (P/i(ica liLyndn)
Ilurc {LejiHs gltinaliK)
Reindeer (Cervus f(ir<i>N/ii.i)
Musk-ox (Onhos mtigc/mtun)
Ptarmigan ( Lanojiiis riijjrufriK)
Eider duck (Somutcria xprrtuhilh
and mollissima) . . . .
liong-tailed duck (^Ilarelda f/lncialin)
Brent goose {Bernicla brenta) .
Dovekie ( Uria grylU')
/'• r
>t
ax
i
5|
3
' v.
■p J)
4 —
4
.")
i:t!t I
44 I
i:{ I
j
1) '
(i
i
0(5
III
TdUil
—
—
4
'^
1
0
4f
1
16
5
~"
153
1
1
45
4
—
18
f.
—
19
—
G
26
—
82
8
—
^
n
VOL. II.
A A
11
IT
;^54
AIM'KNDIX.
n
Ml
I
%
m
f k'. I.v",
MI'JTJ<:OROL()i;io\
Tiie temperature of air is recorded in dejrrees of Fahrenheit, The 'lioursof wind
recorded wind and weal lierliwted. In tlu- column lieaded 'stronj^ wind' i.ssliM\vn|
measure for a '.strong breeze ; ' force 7 indicating; a ' niixlerati' K''dc.' b.c. indii')
Yi'iirbj Mi.ii I'
Date
AufTust 1875-76
September 1875
October „
Niiveml)er „
I)eceml)er „
January 1876
February „
Marcli „
■April „
May „
June „
July
TiiEiiMoMPrKn
BAUOWKTEn
Maximuni
Minimum
Monn
Maximum
Inrlips
3()-()62
30-219
30-533
30-8'.'4
30-522
30-205
30-478
30-527
30-64lt
30-370
30-104
29-890
Minimum
ItirticH
29-1! 10
29-211
2!t-4!tO
29-691
2S-979
2!M»15
29-224
29-56!>
29-802
29-372
2!l-379
29-004
28-979
Mcnn
-
Iiiclics
29-7 m
2H-t;7!l
29-!i4lJ
3(11. 13
2!w;|(5
2!l-(;i)ti
2'.i';is!
:i(i-o',i()
3iiL",t;»
2'.i-!tl5
2!t-,H02
29-:)!l'J
+ 44°0
+ 36-5
+ 21-2
^ 23-0
+ 35-0
+ 8-5
+ 2-0
- 8-0
+ 15-0
+ 32-5
+ 44-0
+ 50-0
+ 50-0
n
+ 24-5
+ 0-2
- 32-2
-45-7
- 46-5
- 5!l-2
- 66-5
-73-75
-46-5
-14-9
+ 18-2
+ 29-0
-73-75
+ 31-913
+ 15-603
- 4-!W7
-16-K47
-22-115
-32-916
-37-975
-39-768
- 1 7-963
+ 11-212
+ 32-455
+ 38-356
366 days .
- 3-473
30-824
29-8()G
ProjK)rt ion .
—
—
—
—
Yfnr
ly Ahutm
Date
TlIEnMOMKTEn
Bauometer
Maximutn Miuimiim
Mean
Muximnm
■
Inches
30-352
30-352
30-545
30-877
30-569
30-253
30-506
30-580
30-729
30-350
30-051
29-887
Minimum
Meun
Aufifust 1875-76
September 1875
October „
November „
December „
January 1876
February „
March „
April „
May „
June „
July
+ 4I°0
+ 43-0
+ 21-5
+ 19-0
+ 26-0
-13-0
+ 2-0
- 8-0
+ 13-0
+ 33-6
+ 41-0
+ 46-3
+ 26-0
+ 2-4
-39-0
-460
-54-0
-63-0
-620
-70-8
-42-5
- 20-5
+ 16-5
+ 29-6
+ 32°72
+ 18-52
- 9-79
-18-41
- 24-54
-40-64
-35-00
- 37-05
-17-27
+ 10-04
+ 32-50
+ 37-21
Inches
29-485
29-338
29-437
29-741
28-l»95
29-101
29-140
29-5r)l
29-759
29-411
29-379
29-043
Inrlirs
21i-7(l'.t
2!l-7(l.1
2'.l-!K'<l
30-i;i4
2!l-(;47
2!i-t!7.")
21I-1I!I4
30- 1(H)
3()-:i27
2!t-!i;!l
29-801
2'.t-51t6
29-886
366 days .
+ 46-0
-70-8
- 4-232
30-877
28-995
Proportion .
—
—
—
—
—
aim
N.I
2fi6
94
it;8
b
;t.-i4
>■
:iii!
1
:ii)0
—
;):'3
11
IIL'H
«:
i'(;3
17
:",i7
27
:i(i()
>^
■m
12
M
10
:i,:iI4 202
ii:is o-o:
1
ur.s. '1
'alin
N.E
illC)
17
:(:'(>
40
iKll
40
4(14
16
(!()4
44
m
28
4,51
86
.•-72
44
r)2(»
20
.w2
24
416
60
520
4
Ml 3
423
0-G9
0-Of
-
mi;ti:<)i:(>L(m)1('ai, amsikalt,
.).')0
'EOROLiuncX
Yn,
'/// .W/A//1
IICI.MKTKI;
Inimiiin
Mean
Ilirlics
Iriclics
i'.t-l'.tO
21t-71ti
i!t211
2!i-fi7!l
i!t-4!IO
2!t-;i48
i'MVM
30- 1,1:1
;S!I7!»
21'-(llt}
>!MII5
2il-(;(M)
'!t'224
2!i-'.i,si
".»•■.»;!»
3i)'()|i(i
".••8()2
30-2'.l!»
i»:{72
2!t-!l|r)
!>;{7t»
2!I-.H()2
!)U04
2il-5!llt
8-1)7!)
2'i-m;
—
—
Yiar
hj Abntm
lO.METEU
nirnum
Mciin
nclips
Ilirlios
it-485
2'.t-7(i!l
!>-:i:j8
2!t-7()">
!t-437
211-HSl
1»-741
3(l-r.t4
^•!»!tr.
2!l-r.47
»-l(H
2'.l-t)7")
(-140
2!t-!i!l4
»-5r.i
30-1 («)
»-75{)
30-:i27
(-411
2'.t-li;!l
t-:{7!>
21t-S(tl
(-043
2!)-")'.it)
—
(-995
29-886
—
—
Will.
iUSTRACT.
iiirs of wcallicr' iiri> ttio rclativi' rminlicr of lunirs in cacli nioiitli riurin^ wliicli thi-
Liiilicr ijf lioiirs tlio f(prctM)f tliu wiiul ri^uclu'd to or t'xcufdud forci; ti, thu iiauticul
[ue sky with detucliL-d cloudH.
|?.1/.,S'. 'AU'i-t,' 1875-7(5.
Holiis (IF Wixii
I
aim
N.E.
B.
S.K.
•m
04
60
42
Ifi8
8
(i
30 i
;i:.4
8
10
3(; !
:)oi
1
1
3(>
:ii)()
—
—
24
;i23
11
3
12
a28
6
10
(5
203
17
22
50
2!t7
27
3
40
:<ii(>
8
12
—
2(18
12
14
22
20(i
10
34
54
;il4 202
175
352
ii-;{s
0-02
0-02
0-04
s.w. w.
21 li»2
i<; 4<i
27
34
(15
75 <;3
24 51
20
13
28
2
74
51»
10
22
110
74
' 37
3'.)
84
01
35
28
' 22
11
108
38
28
444 892 508
_ Avrr- '
Jtidii'lj- i^'S I
N.W. 1 N. f'"'^'' i'3 li.f.
1-4
2-2
0-8
1-0
()-!»
1-3
1 •2ii
II
0-8
1-0
1-7
1-2
Hill Ks OK \Vi:Ariifc:ii
- ■
17
20
227
29
144
40
183
44
211
75
175
54
198
50
237
48
191
128
172
94
204
80
128
136
Ovpr-
25
470
1
208
111
218
-,()•_'
1
340
398
10
500
154
, 2
580
158
45
097
47
2,087
0-24
52
I 20
' 12
122
! 17
543
044
450
304
410
424
1 53
100
270
440
310
320
Snow
Mir.
Kciff
iir
tiirv
Kairi
triizcii
49
74
30
173
—
30
178
25
29
35
54
140
40
7
58
280
14
07
398
37
22
34
40
01
180
108'
118
285
10
810 1 1-2 010 5.004 3,120 414 1,292 1,000
0-09
— 007 0-65 1 0-35 005 | 0'16 1 012
nr.s
. * Dlscm'ei
•y,' 1875-76.
Ilouits OF Wind
HOUIia OP WEATIlKll
Afnxi-
miiiii
fiirci'
8
Calm
4lMl
N.E.
E.
S.E.
P.
.s.w.
\v.
10
N.W.
8
N.
32
u
31
b.c.
Ovor-
CllSt
Fog
29
Snow
or
nain
Mer-
cury
frozen
17
24
53
117 77
521
223
28
:i:'Oi 40
16
20
80 100
10
52
70
7
10
308
412
80
120
—
liiH ] 40
8
—
4 20
4
44
20
4
■ ■
504
240
_
144
—
4t;4
16
20
29
1
1
13
04
112
3
024
!tO
4
08
32
(104
44
32
4
—
8
8
12
32
8
12
590
148
10
92
194 1
m
28
—
20
8 —
8
24
72
2
—
008
130
—
92
472 1
451
86
13
12
9 21
14
50
34
10
23
509
187
—
00
352
.•.72
44
—
28
20 : 10
4
20
40
8
4
012
132
—
72
280
fi20
20
16
8
8 . 16
8
8
1(>
.3
—
OOO
120
—
90
4
.i52 i 24
16
20
44 i 8
4
—
70
8
12
028
110
-_
44 - 1
410 60
12
68
100 ; 44
4
16
8
50
.544
170
—
48 —
520 4
12
40
100
40
12
12
4
6
10
470
208
16
145
80 —
U13 423
169
302
491 .351
101
304
530
—
107
0,530
2,254
944 1,334
0(59 0-05 0-02
0-03
0-06 0-04
0-01
0-04
0-00 1 —
0-02
0-74
0-20
0-01
Oil 0-15
A A 2
AIM'KNDIX.
N... MX.
W . f* '
No. MX.
ABSTRACT OF RESULTS onTATXED FROM THE
Tin A L 0 USER I 'A TlOXS
MA1>K OX nOAIU) II. M, SHIPS * I)IS(0\ KI'.Y ' AMI 'AI.KKt' IS 1k:.V6.
Hy tiik Ukv. Samukf, llAf.iinu.v, ^[.0.. D.C.L., F.R.S.
F(?lli>w of Trinity Ccnfyfi', Dulilin.
TiiK tidiil ohscrviitions made during tli<- rfcont Arctic Expo-
(lition were of orcal, \aluc, and conHriu tlif ((pinion, formed
on other p;rounils, tliat (ireenland i^ an island.
Diirino* seven months (twenty-eiirht days eaeli) on board
tlie 'Discovery' at Ikdlot llarlwur, lat. HV 4'/. loiif?. H.>° W.,
)ionrly t>bservations were made, broken by interpolations in
six days only.
On board the ' Alert,' near Cape Sheridan, lat. 82° 2')',
lon<i[. fil° 30' W., tlie diflficnlties of ol)servation were greater,
owiniij to tlie more exposed position of the ship; notwithstand-
ing which, two months of hourly ol)servations (with inter-
polations in fifteen days) were secured ; and these hourly
observations were supplemented by valuable determinations
of tile times of high and low water, and by four hourly ob-
servations made at other times.
The expedition, proceeding northwards up Smith Soimd,
I
'1I11
Nu. \l\. AIKIKACT OF TIDAL OllSKIfVATloNS.
;j57
iiift till' tide <'inni!i;j; from tlic north, iit or near ("apr Knizcr,
lilt. 7!>'' 40', and \c\\ lifliiiui the tides of Maflin's Uay.
'I'Im' new tidal \vav<', ()l)scrvt'(l oil hoard hoth ships, is Ny>>-(v-
I'li'iilhl distinct from the ISaftin's l?ay tide, and from tlu; tide
that cut. r-; the Arctic Ocean thronj,di Hehrinj;'s Straits ; and
it is, withoiitcpiestioii, a tide that lias passed from tlie Atlan-
tic Ocean, round (Ireeiiland, mtrthwards, and tlieii westwards.
The • Discovery,' Itein;;- situated nearer to the head of the
tide (Cape Krazer) than the 'Alert,' had experience of ii
mucli lar^'er tide, and it is in every way fortunate that her
(»ftieer> succeeded in making so complete a series of ohser
vutio
Tlie f(»llowin<j; is a summary of the principal results.
I. ' I)l!SCOVi;itV.' liKLI-OT JliVHUOUIl.
The apparent Lunitidal interval (full and clian<j;e of moon)
rani-es from 11'' 00'" to 12'' 00'", and has a mean value
;,„= 11" 34'" 8
corrected for the moon's motion in the interval from the
passage of the meridian of Oreenwicli.
[n the discussion of the tide, which is being prepared for
publication in the ' Transactions of the Royal Society,' the
Semidiurnal Tide is separated from the Diurnal Tide, and its
constants carefully determined. Contrary to what is found
in the Hatpin's liay tide, the Diurnal Tide is very small, so
that much the largest part of the aj)pareiit tide is composed
of the Semidiurnal Tide, and in this respect it closely resembles
the tides of the British coasts, which are an eastern Atlantic
tide.
This is well shown in the following table, which gives
the cqjjjcyi'nt maximum Spring range, and minimum Neap
ran"-e of the tide at JSellot Harbour ; contrasted with the
' I Ijflieve that tin- crt'dil of tlit'su observations is luainly due to
Lifiilcnant Aiclier, wlo was aided by Ur. Coi)i)iiijrfr as a vohmteur.
358
APPENDIX.
No. XIX.
<\fp ■■
m
.^
s
H
H' ■■,
,^
\h
C'
^
Bm' ' >'
=3 X
iBlH'
« ^
MM
w ^
Hrl i
,==►'-
n
i H
-t-^;
t " '
~ "^
■: ■
^ s
■ ..;■
s *
i:.': '.
H |.
^B'*^ '
^ •^
St''' ■'•
<: JT
■ffi ' '
*t>^ ^
*;■<"
; \
'?'
c«
C
'
><
w
ii
00
H
^
M
O
j,.-
1
-','■;
Ix
i : -
■ ■ '.■
x>
'Mm
Ji^
i
:;|i
1
ft;
If It 1 'i ■*
V
UAjli ,'tl
.3
Pp- '
^■^
pi ''4
."«
.-^
; '-1 «
"3
I ■'
a
V,
'^
^
'^
i i
.2
ii
XIX.
No. XIX. ABSTRACT OF TIDAL 0BSKRVATI0N8. 359
360
APPENDIX.
No. XIX.
Sernidlurnal maximum Spring range and minimum Neap
range.
V;'^
K 1
API'AUEN
T llANOE
SKMIUIUUNAL IlANCiE
Date
Springs
Neaps
Springs ' Neaps
1875
Inches
Inches
Indies
i
Inches
bei)tomber Hi
78-0
—
760
—
23
—
2(5-0
—
17-8
30
73-0
"~
C7-6
—
October 8
—
irv5
—
110
15
7i)-0
. —
78-4
—
22
—
:nr>
— .
20-8
28
660
—
06-6
—
November G
— .
20-0
—
15-2
H
71)-5
—
74-6
—
20
—
;54-0
—
27-3
28
65-0
—
55-6
—
December fi
—
320
—
25-5
13
-3-0
69-4
—
21
._-
34-5
—
30-2
„ 21>
6r>-o
—
55-8
—
1876
January 5
—
410
31-8
13
77-0
.
74 0
—
20
—
-I'y-y
—
20-7
28
71-5
—
640
February 5
3:50
27-9
11
83-0
80-2
—
18
—
21o
9-6
27
78-5
76-8
. —
March 4
—
27-5
—
23-5
12
84-0
—
79-6
—
19
—
20'0
—
11-6
27
~
83 0
— j
In the accompanying diagram, I have plotted the fourth
and fifth cohimns of the preceding table, as follows : —
a a is the range of Spring tides following the new moon.
a' a' is the range of Spring tides following the full moon.
A A is the mean of the two foregoing curves.
hb is the range of Neap tides following the moon's first
(quarter.
b' b' is the range of Neap tides following the moon's
third (quarter.
u L is the mean of the two foregoing curves.
No. XIX. ABSTRACT OF TIDAL OBSEKVATIOXS. oOl
The space between a <t and a' a' represents the Lunar
Panillactic Tide deduced from Spring tides, and the space
between h h and h' b' represents the Lunar Parallactic Tide
deduced from Neap tides.
The range of the Lunar Parallactic Tide deduced from each
is sixteen inches.
The curves A A and bh show the semiannual variation ot
the Lunisolar fortnightly tide cleared of lunar parallax.
Svf
IL 'Alert.' Cai'b SiiERinAN.
The apparent Lunitidal interval (full and change of
moon) observed on board the ' Alert' was —
22" 37"'.
The following table shows the relation which the apparent
Spring and Neap tides bear to the calculated Semidiurnal
Spring and Neap tides, and shows, as before, that the chief
tide is the Senudiurnal : —
Maximum Spriny ami Minimum Neap Tides.— Itamje in Inches.
Dute
1875
September
;{() .
October
14 .
5»
December
'I'l
j>
21 .
2'J .
Apparent
Somidiuniiil
Inches
Indies
300
;{o-()
L'8-5
32-8
12-5
\H)
i
Htri")
3 1-0
17-5
i:{()
2'.tr)
2r)0
'Ui
II
r ■
4v
II
111.' ""' "'
1 1' ■■■■'-
■I ■ ;
n .f
I
INDEX.
k
m
ACA
ACAUIDKA, ii. 2:?8
Admiralty, Lords Comniis-
sinnors of. tlieir approval of tlie
conduct of tho Expedition, ii. 186
Aearious feildeni, ii. S20
Albert Mountain, i. fi2, 106, 333
Alca liruennichi, i. 22, 2.5
— torda, i , 22
— troile, i. 22
Aldrich. Lieut., i. 18. 63, *M\ 13.i.
138, 141, 1 46-^1 r,.5. 173. 187. 1 •».=;.
211,2.''.4. 266. 2S3, 302. 314, 31.->,
320, 321, 3.-)0-354, 35'J ; ii. 1,3,
8-10. 46
— his four days' iourney, i. 141
— extract from journal of, i. I't^
— on the western sledjje-journey,
ii. 10-48
' Aldrich 's Farthest,' ii. 48
' Alert,' H.M.S., list of officers and
men of. i. ix.
— departure of, i. 1
— pales experienced by. i. 4, .t
— caught in the pack, i. 7r, ; ii. 12y
— winter-quarters of. i. 121t
— ventilation of, i. 181
— return homo of, ii. 81, 18.'>
— animals procured by crew of, ii.
352
— abstract of meteorological ob-
servations made bv officers of,
ii. 354
— tidal observations made on
board of, i. 356
Alexandra Haven, i. 67
Alfred Newton Glacier, ii. 174
Akw, ii. 61
.Mli-je— Results of the Expedition,
ii. 323
.\llman. Dr. O. J., on Hydrozoa m].
lected by the Expedition, ii. 2'.i0
ARC
! Allman Bay, i. 86, 163-16»
I Alpheid*. ii. 242
.Vmpharetidaf, ii. 258
'■ Amphictenidw, ii. 258
AmphipfKia, ii. 244
Amusements of the travellers, i.
189, Ht2. 263, 322
Ancient settlements near E(ah, i. .'i4
Androsace septentrionalis, ii. 140,
303
Animals procured in Smith Sound,
\c., ii. 352. 353
AnneMda— Results of the Expt^ili-
tion. ii. 257
Annelids, i. 110
Anttdon Eschrichtii, i. 84
Appetite, tem|X)rary loss of, by the
travellers, i. 225
Arachnida— Results of the Expedi-
tion, ii. 234. 238
.Araneidea. ii. 238
Archer, Lieut., i. 284, 303, 304, 308,
332-334
Archer Fiord, i. Ill
Arctic and Alpine fauna and flora,
theory respect intr, ii. 231)
Arctic circle, a star crossing? the, i.
150
crossinjr the, i. 13 ; recrossiiiy.
ii. 184
— dresses. Stc f'lothinfr
— Exi)edition, jiublic interest in
the. i. 2
— ' hed ire-rows." i. 233
— ' highlanders,' i. 30, 42 ; ii. 180,
I — navigation, i. llti
— scenery, i. 152
— ships, i. 170
i —vegetation. .S^^t- Vegetation
.ArcturiL-*, ii. 53
I
?M
INDEX.
t:!'
1
H|:;h! i
! ;i
f
Iffi
-.
•,,:
i
l^
1
1%^
AlfG
Ar^vniii.s, i. 71 ; ii. ^3.1
Army Fiord, i. 127
Artliiir's Si'iit, i. 2'.l.")
Arvf J'rins Isliind. i. '22, 2i
' Assistiinci'," tlio, i. L'2")
Asliirte, i. 110; ii. ;i;{4
Astt'rni<lcii, ii. Udii, 2(')i
AtiiiR'kcrdliik, i. 2')
Atlantic, tirst diivs in the, i. H
Auks, i. ;il», 4:5, 47, 63 ; ii. 152, 184,
21-)
Aurora, i. IHd, 1!I8
Austiir.s Kxpt'dition, i. 4')
Autumn travelling on tliu ice, i.
14!i, 170
Ayles, A., i. mo, ]',-) ; ii. '.I, 27-^3
Azalea iirocumbeiiis, i. 17
I)ACHE ISLAND, i. (Jl-74 ; ii.
) 171
IJattins Bay, i. !», 21, 4S, 51, 71, 72,
!t5, 123, 131>, 203; ii. 114, 175,
ISO, 181
Haliena niysticetus, i. 7, 71 ; ii. 1117
Halanida>, ii. 247
lianks raised by ico-])ressure, i. 247
I'anks' Island, ii. 151
— Land, i. 7!t, 124
Hantvy I'.ay, i. 2, 3
Harden May, ii. 178
Barometer, rise and fall of, on the
Atlantic, i. 4
l?asalt of Ovifak, i. 18
Hay of ^Mercy, i. 124 ; ii. 151
Beard, frozen, i. 280
Bears, i. 40, !>3, 102, 224, 343; ii.
188, 1!»5
' Hear scares," i. 224
Beatrix Bay, i. 333
Beaumont, Lieut., i. 273. 284, 2!»8,
3O2-30(;, 313, 31(i, 338-340 ; ii. 8,
47-51, 82-85, iJ7, 127, 131, 135,
140, 141
■ — account by, of his sledge-journey,
ii. 84, 87
— accoinit by, of his juuvncy across
Hall's Basin, ii. i;{5
Beechey, Captain, i. 7!»
Behring's Straits, i. 80; ii. 151
Belcher, Sir K., i. 225; ii. 48, 75
ISellol Harbour, ii. 357
Island, i. 117,334 ; ii. 84, 131-145
— Straits, i. 234
]!elts of hunnnocks, i. 357
UL'T
Berkeley, Rev. M. J., on Fungi col-
lected by the Exiiedition, ii. 'MM
Bernicla brenta, ii. 352, 353
Bert lion boats, i. 20
I5e.ssels, Dr., i. 52 ; ii. 125, 2(Hi
r.essels I'.ay, i. 107-114; ii. 147
Betula nana, i. 2'.»
Beverley ('litis, i. 42
BiceUariadie, ii. 284
Bird, Adnural F-., i. 155
Birds, i. 272. 3S(; ; ii.5, 33, 48, 52, 20(i
— non-migration of, furllu'r north
than Cape Joseijli Heinv, ii, 48
Black Cajie, i. 27. 2S0, 285, 2'.)t),
330; ii. 72. 77, 78, 88, IIG
— Clilf, ii. 53
Bay, i. 150; ii.lt
— HornCliff.s, ii. 1(2
Blood-spitting by the travellers, i.
237
Bluebottle (lies, ii. 143
Boats, collapsible, i. 315
— for sledge-crews, i. 254
— \vhite-i)ainted, objection to, 1. 27t>
I'oll)roe, Gov., ii. 183
Bombus, i. 71 ; ii. 235
Botanj' — Kesultsof the Expedition,
ii.301
Brachiopoda, ii. 233
Brady, Dr. G. S., on the Ostracoda
collected by the Exjicdition, ii.
253
— ilr. H. B., on the Foi-aminifera
collected by th(^ Expedition, ii.2l)5
Branchipodidie, ii. 240
Breath, vaporisation of, i. 250
— shortness of, i. 23(5
Brent-geese, i. 347 ; ii. 4, 52, 53, 71,
73, 124, 121t, 130, 210, 352, 353
Brenta Bay, ii. 130
Brevoort Island, i. 58-02 ; ii. 174
Brine at a k)\v temperature, i. 177
Brother Jolin's Glacier, i. 53
Brown Islands, i. 37
Bryant, G., i, .52, 272, 2!)7, 2!t8 ; li.
ItO
Buchanan Sound, i. 08
— Strait, i. 05, 73 ; ii. 173
Buddington, Captain, i, 125; ii, 5
Buds on unprotected ])lant, i. 238
Bull, Cow, and Calf liocks, i. 3
Burgoniaster.s, i. 45
Busk, Jlr. G,, on the I'(jlyzoa col-
lected bj' the Expedition, ii. 283
Butterllies, i. 71 ; ii. 143, 230
INDEX.
no5
CAH
(^ARLK, chain, contraction of, i.
j 22(5
Cairns, i. 45-r,!), 81, 85, 88, IL'lMC,.-,,
240, :{27, :!:!<;, XM, \\\\\ ; ii. 2, 104,
107,14:5, 1"):5, 1<'.2, 174
Calidris arenaria, i. \Vl'i\ ii. 207
Capo Aclar.tl, i. 48
-- Albert, i. 70,7:$; ii. ir,2, 1(58, 172
— Albert Edward, ii. Ii*
— Aldrich, i. ■!":{; ii. 1<)
— Alexander, i. 48, 50, 54; ii. 157
— Alexandria, ii. H*
— Andrew Jackson, i. 105
— Atholl, ii. 180
— Hack, i. Ill
— Baker, ii. 172
— Baird, i. HI; ii. 138, i:W, 145
--neechey, i. 112, 117-121, 21U,
21)2; ii. I2:i, 12<i-i:i2
— Helknap, i. ;52;t : ii. 7;?
— r.ellot, i. 5:5, 112
— Bicknor, ii. 25
— Brevoort, i. :«)."), 317, W,1, JUG;
ii. 72, 125
— Britannia, i. .125 ; ii. 47, 72, 105
_ Brvan, i. 100, IH
— BrVant, ii. 47, 72, 08, lOfi
— Buttress, ii. ili)-10;{
— Campordown, i. 73
— fleaveland, ii. '.>!•
— Colan, i. :{21 ; 11.3,11,12,30
— CoUinson, i. 101, 102; ii. 14'.)
--Columbia, ii. 11-18, 24, 33
— Constitution, i. 104, 105
— Cracroft, ii. 72
— Dcfosse, i. 107, 111
_- Desolation, i. 8, 15; ii. 151
— - D'Urville, i. 8t;; ii. HiO
— Fansliawo Martin, ii. 24
— - Faraday, i. 48
-- Farewell, i. 0-1 1
— Frazer, i. 21, 92-101, 123; n.
125, 1.50-1.53
— Frederick VIL, i. 120, 121, 288,
2il5, 332 ; ii. 123
— Fulford, ii. 08, !)i), 105
— Hjvrrison, i. 81
— Hatlicrton, i. 55
— Hawks, i. 74, 85-87 ; ii. 1 50, 1 GO-
102, 108
— Hay, i. 70
-Hayes, i. 02; ii. 154, 150, 102,
1 oo'
— Hccln, ii. U
— Hercules, i. :i52
L'Ak
120,
141
2s:i,
Cape Hilpard, i. 80, 01 ; ii. 15(;
— Isabella, i. 53-58, 255; ii.
KiO, 172-177
— James Good, ii. 14
— Jolui liarrow, i. 08; ii. 1.50
— Josepli (iood, ii. 147, 140
— Josei)h Henry, i. i:!0, 1:51,
148-1,50, 1.54, 100. 172, 2.52,
:u)2, :!08. 3i:{-:{:io, :{44, 35:i-:{5s.
:{80, :{8:i, 380; ii. 1, 8-11,47, 48,
73, 74
— Lawrence, ii. 141)
— Lieber, i. 100-112; ii. 08, i;!7,
138, 140
— Louis Napoleon, i. 02; ii. 155
— Lupton, i. 100, 111. 112, 20:!,
JWO; ii. 72, 110, 131, i:50
— M'Clintock, ii. 150
— Mary Cloverley, i 111
— Morton, i. 107-110
— Murchis(m, i. 117-110; ii. 141
— Napoleon, i. 00, 01 ; ii. 155
— Norton Shaw, i. 100 ; ii. 1.50
— Ohlsen, i. 50, 55
— Parry, i. 350
— I'rescott, i. 81, 84; ii. 160
— Powlett, ii. 178
— llawson, i. 138, 140, 140, 104,
188, 104, 217, 225, 228, 232. 241 -
244, 271, 272, 270, 285, 200, 207,
■500 ; ii. 52, 07, 70-72, 77, 88
_ _ beds, ii. 328
I — Richards, ii. 23
— liichardson, i. 172, 208, 328,347;
ii. 2-5, 45
— Sabine, i. 51-70, 123; ii. 100,
172, 174
_ Schott. i. 88, 00
— Slieridan. i. 127-1.38, 145-147.
104, 107, 187, 188, 220; ii. 05-7:$,
;50l
— Stanton, i. .304, ;?05, 310,
ii. 72, 02-04
— Stephenson, ii. 22
— Stevens, ii. 172
— Sumner, i. 3:i7 ; ii. 124
— Tyson, i. Ill
— Uni.m, i. 111. 121-120, 140
288, :il2; ii. 71, 72. 114-123
_ Victoria, i. 73, 74, 78, 80, 85 ; ii.
108, 171. 17(i
— York, i. 21, 37-40, 51; ii. 100, 180
Carabites fcildenianus, ii. :i:{5, ;t:i7
Carboniferous limestone, ii. :i32
Carl Bitter Bay, i. 5:?, Ill : ii. 140
31'
24'.i,
II
Mi
:
30G
INDKX.
i
i;| J
CAR
CJarnivora, ii. I!t2
Carrior-jjifreons, i. 6, 199
— error respecting,', i. (5
Carter, Mr. H. J., on Sponges col-
lected by tlie Expedition, ii. 2\K\
Cary Islands, i. 21, 42-48; ii. 175,
177, 180
Cassiopeia tetrapfoua, i. 16
Caterjjillars, ii. 143
Celleporidiu, ii. 288
Celliilariadie, ii. 283
Cerastium ali)inuni, ii. 78, 311
Cervus tarandus, ii. 353
Cetacea, ii. r.»7
Chietoj!:natlia, ii. 259
Ciiiutomium f,dabruni on the cabin-
walls of the 'Alert,' ii. 320
Charr, i. 329 ; ii. 70, 71
Cheilostomata, ii. 283
Chester, Mr., i. 33(5
Cliimney, frozen, i. 179
Christma.s Day, i. 210
Ciironometers, i. 20, 34, 39, 77, 340
Cirripedia, ii. 247
Clements Markham Tnlet, ii. 11, 62
Climate in relation to hill-sides, i.
26
— difference of, in the Waigat, i. 27
— of Hartstene 15ay, i. 55
— effect of, on animal life, ii. 299
— warmer, indications of past ex-
istence of, ii. 331-338
Clothing of the travellers, i. 19,183.
206, 226, 273, 276, 279, 301, 309 ;
ii. 53
Clouds, unusual appearance of, i.
231
Coal for the 'Valorous,' i. 21
■ — weekly consumpti(m of, i. 202
Coal in vicinity of Discovery Har-
bour, ii. 333-338
Coal-beds near Cape Murchison, ii.
141, 142
Coal-mines of the Waigat, i. 24
Cochlearia officinalis, i. 46 ; ii. 311
Cocked-hat Hill, i. 66
Colan, Dr., i. 94, 168, 176, 187, 194,
201, 211, 231, 269, 314, 315, 318 ;
ii. 50, 70
Cold, first experience of, i. 134
— extreme degree of, i. 263
■ — effect of, on quicksilver of
glasses, i. 297
Coleoptera, ii. 235
Colias, i. 71 5 ii. 235
OAL
Collembola, ii. 238
Collinson, Admiral Sir R., i. 80, 124
Colour, green, of the sea, ii. 149
Colymbus, i. 40; ii.215
Comatuhe, i. 84
Committee for inciuiring into causes
of outbreak of scurvy, i. 259
Compass in tlie crow's-nest, i. 38
Complexion, effect of climate on,
ii. 67
Conchifera, ii. 229
Conical Hill, i. 383, 390; ii. 40
— Rock, i. 44, 4()
Coniferous wood, ii. .143
Contraction of ice. See Ice
Conybeare, Jlr., i. 2, 284, 332-335 ;
ii. 53
Conybeare Ray, i. 333
• Cooper Key Mountains,' i. 359
' Peak,' ii. 18
CopefKjda, Oceanic — Results of the
Expedition, ii. 249
— parasitica, ii. 247
Copes Ray, ii. 171
Copi)inger, Dr. R. W., i, 90, 284,
.302-306, 313, 316, .336-343; ii.
82-86,91-96, 111-113, 137, 139,
165
— on the cairn of Captain Hall, i.
336, 337
— on his journey through M'Cor-
mick Pass, i. 340
— rejjort by, on I'etermann Glacier,
ii. 346
Cottus, i,19; ii. 218
Cracking noise of the ice, i. 197
Cracks in the ice, i. 364, 381 ; ii. 67
Craig, J., ii. 103-112
~ P., ii. 100
CrangonidiK, ii.241
Crinoidea, ii. 262, 280
Crinoids, i. 84
'Crossing Floe,' i. 272, 273 ; ii. 77
Crozier, i. 124
Crozier Island, i. 104; ii. 10, 32
Crustacea, i. 376 ; ii. 5,'5
— Results of the Expedition, ii. 240
Crj'olite, i. 6
Ctenostomata, ii. 289
Cyclopterus sjjinosus, ii. 219
Cyclostomata, ii. 288
Cylichna, ii. 54
DALY Peninsula, ii. 84, 132, 144,
145
INDEX.
36^
DAL
Daly Mountains, i. Ill
— Promontory, i. Ill
Dana Hay Ix-ds, ii. H.'W
Danes, kindness of, to the Eskimo,
i. :v.\
Dauisli settlements, disease amongst
do<,^s in, i. 17iJ
Darkness, great degree of, i. 19 J), 223
Davis Strait, i. !), 17; ii. 184
Dean Hill, i. 275
Decapofla, ii. 241
Depot Point, i. :{51, .ir>2
De Ranee, Mr. C. E., on the geo-
logical structure of tlie coasts of
Grinnell Land and Hall Ba-sin,
ii. :?27
Devil's Thumb, i. 30; ii. 181
'Diataond Dust,' i. 2!ty
Diastoporidie, ii. 288
Diatomaceie, yellow colour of ice
due to, i. 378
— colour of water atfected by,
ii. 1.52
— Results of the Expedition, ii. 323
Diatoms, i. 11
— beyond lat. 78° N., list of, ii. 325
Dickie, Prof. G., ii. (Jl
■ — on the Algie and Diatomaceie
collected by the Expedition,
ii. 323
Diet of the travellers, i. 256, 331,
348
Diptera, ii. 237
Disco, i. 13-22 ; ii. 174,182, 183
— Hay, i. 14, 18 ; ii. 183
— Coast, ii. 182
Disco Island, i. 15-32, 65 ; ii. 141
Discoloration of the sea, i. 11
' Discovery,' H.M.S , list of the
officers and men of, i. x.
— caught in the pack, i. 75
— winter-quarters of, i. 284
return home of, ii. 185
— animals procured by crew of,
ii. 353
— abstract of meteorological ob-
servations made by officers of,
ii. 353
— tidal observations made on
board of, ii. 35(5
Discovorv Bav, i. 114, 116, 151,174,
l'.»6, lf»8, 218, 223, 228-231, 240,
244, 250, 255, 263, 27i)-;'84, 303,
329, 332, 334 ; ii. 7, G6-68, 82-84,
114, 126-145, 157
EOE
Discovery Harbour, i. 114, 117; ii.
82, 145
Distant Cape, i. 117, 333
— Point, ii. 130
Divers, i. 40; ii. 215
Dobbin Hay, i. C3, 87, 88, 94 ; ii. 154,
157, 160
Dobing, ii. 107-112
Dodge's Mountains, i. 50
Dogs for the sledges, i. 21, 23, 82,
84, 137, 154, 173, 175, 193, 211,
242-250, 261, 266, 270, 271,
286-339, 391 ; ii. 3, 8, 44, 46, 54,
71, 96,97, 183
— disease amongst, i. 94, 150-163,
175, 239-241
Dog-sledging, i. 288-324, 335, 339,
345 ; ii. 44
— difficulties of, i. 270
Doidge, J., ii. 9, 18-42
Dougall, W., i. 308
Dovekies, i. 40, 63, 85, 91, 109; ii.
71, 130, 156, 182, 214, 352, 353
Draba, i. 46 ; ii. 78, 193, .303
Dragon Point, ii. 98, 104
Dredging off Torske Hank, i. 13
Dresses of the travellers. See
Clothing
' Drift-pits," ii. 90
^ Point, ii. 90, 94, 107
— wood, ii. 70, 73
Ducks (Eider-ducks, &c.), i. 20, 37,
40, 53, 62, 63,85, 110, 117, 135;
ii. 5, 52, 53, 134, 168, 182, 216,
352, 353
Dumbell Bay, i. 169, 345 ; ii. 8
— Lakes, i. 329 ; ii. 65, 73
Duncan, Prof. P. Martin, on the
Echinodermata collected by the
Expedition, ii. 260
Dust in ice, ii. 61, 70
Dwarf-sorrel, ii. 67, 71
Dwarf-willows, ii. 78
Dwellings, ancient, of iiskimo, ii.
189
ECHINODERMATA, i. 84
— Results of the Expedi-
tion, ii. 260
Echinoderms, ii. 152, 156
Echinoidea, ii. 261, 262
Echinus drobachiensis, i. 84
Egedesmindc, ii. 183
Egerton, Lieut. Geo. Le Clerc, i.
23, 120, 121, 153, 237-256, 263-
m
i
III
ilil
;U)S
ini)f;\'.
Ui
i
« 'If
2':\, 2S2, L'S.'!, L".>7, 2!)8, :W5. ;t()7,
:ti:t^:n7, :ii':i, :ii.".t; ii. 8. (;.s, 7:t.
74, iL'fl, i:{2
Kjri'i'loii, Lieut. (Icn. I^o Clcrc, ro-
t'crciic(! liy, to l.it'iit. Itiiwson, i.
L'C.'.t
— r('|Mirt liy, on tlic slcdfjc-dojrs, i.
L>71
— report \>y, on hissleil^'e-joiirnoy,
i. 285
— on drift -wood, ii. 74
Kider-dncks. .SV't' DiiclsS
KUii r.iiy, i. :j:i4
Kllcsnu're Liind, i. 48-715; Kiti, 177,
187
Kniniersnn, (i., i, :?i:t; ii. 8(5, 8i>
Knijire-ss Kn;,'('nie <il;icier, i. !•!•
Kntomostriicii, ii. 24fi
Jlpilohium latifolium, i. 08 ; ii. Jil 1
' Eret)U.s," tlic, i. 124
Ermines, i. 241, 27:$; ii. 141, VX\
Erratics of Proven, i. 2!)
Escliaridii', ii. 28(>
Eskimos and tlieir traces, i. 21, 24,
a:!, ;{(;, 4i-4o. nc, (i:?, 71. 85 ; ii.
Hit, 152, 154, 178, 180-1 8a, 187
— discovery of ironstone l>v, i. 18
— dos.^sof, 1.21, 2:?, 17:5, 175
— dwellinjrs of, i. 71
— mijrration of, i. 71
- relics of, 11. 128
Etali, 1. 53, 54; Ii. 187
Etlmoloiry — llesults of the Expedi-
tion, ii. 187
Euyenle, Emjiress, presents made
to the Exjiedition by, 1. !»(), ISIt,
;{22, ;52:?, 'm\2
Evigtok, 1. (!
FABRICIUS, reference to, ii. 205,
2:58
Falcons, ii. 155, 208
Feilden, Captain II. W., i. 10, 18,
5.5, 50, 80, 81, !tO-ii:i. <t8, W, 117,
121, i:il, i:{8, 107, 21!l, 220, 282,
274, 21)0, aio, :u;$, :ii7, :!2:{. 325,
;{2!i, ;{i)0 ; ii. a, !>, 45, 70, 71, 128,
121t, 140, 15:?-150, 108, 175, :(01,
32;?, X)i
on residts of the Exjiedition
in Ethnolo^^y, ii. 187; (ieolo<i-y,
ii. ;{27; Mammalia, U. r.l2; Or-
nithology, ii. 200
note by, on the l)otanlcal
collections (if ihe Kxpedition. ii.
;t20
{"'eiideii, Cajitiiin If. \\'., on the geo-
logiciil sinicliire uf the coasts of
(irintu.. Land and Hall Itasin,
ii. :t27
Feilden I'eninsula, 1. ;t28 ; ii. 'A, 10,
:i:t2
Fenker. Mr. and Mrs., ii. 182
Ferhrache. i. :i84
Ferns, i. 17; ii. 140, aoi
Filaria, ii. 202, 205
Fire-hole cut tiirougli tla; ice. i.
184, 22:$
Fish obtained from (ireenlanders,
i. '.")
Fisiies, 1. 84; ii. 150, 218
Fiskernies, i. 1 1
Fliescher, (iov., i. :{2
Floeberg I'.eiich, i. i:tS-151, lOIJ,
107, 172, ISH. LM8, 2:tO, 231, 244.
251, 285, ;{2;!, XM ; ii..5, 7,40, 70,
84, 114, 11.5, 110, 12.5, 141, 151,
3i;{-:U8
Floebergs, i. i:il, 22!>, 270
Flora of I'roven, i. 20
— near Dumbell Harbour, ii. llCi
— of (ircenland, ii. liOI
Sre r.otany. Plants.
Flustrida;, ii. 285
Fogs encountered during the Ex-
jiedition, i. 10, 25-;J7, 44, ;il5,
:!<;2. :{7(), ;i71, :i82; ll. I8, 24, 2.-),
;(;{, 72, 155, 157
Fohn of Greenland, i. 207
Foraminifera — Kesults of the Ex-
jiedition, ii. 205
Forbes, Prof. Kd., theory of, ii. 2;(0
Fossils from I'essels Hay, i. 110
— from coal-seam, ii. 142
— limestone, i. 327 ; ii. 15;$, 155
Atr ApjK ii. ;{20
Foulke Fiord, i. 5;$, 54
Fo\vling-j)iece.s, barrels of, cun-
Iracted by cold, i. 1":$
' Fox,' the, ii. 1)5
Foxes, i. 40, 1 14, 2:57, 27!$, ;i05, JCi'.l :
ii. 10, 141, io:$, ;$52, :$5:$
Francombe, i. :i7()
Frankticld Hay, ii. 04
Franklin Exjiedition, i. 124. .347
— Search Exjiedition, i. 258, 200
Franklin Island, i. 104, 105; ii. 140
— Pierce Bay, i. 81
Franz Josefs Land, ii. :i07
INDKX.
;w;',»
V\iV.
Kri'dcrick llii- Kskiino. i. '.M. l.Vi
ICO, I'.tll, 211. '.M'.i. •-Mo-lMC), L'Sti.
I! 1 7, :ii.'l : ii. 71, I--' I, \-J'.K IS-.', is:;
Frcdcriksliiiali, i. 1 1
{•'nist-liil(!. I'ii-cs (if, iiniiiiiu' lln' nii-
vcllcrs. i. 17t, l-,t:i. --'nit. 211, l'l':.,
2:t2. 2:iH, 2(;i, I'si. :!:u. ;<r.H :tt;»
Kullnrd, Lieut., i. 'MH, WM; ii. (18,
H2, ;•<;, n:!, u'>"), :nti
Kuliniivs, i. :i, 4, 7. Mt; ii.214
FiuiMi Iti'siilts of the Exijodititui,
ii.;ill)
G1ADUS lal>ri(;ii, ii. -'I'.i
r GaU's, heavy, i. 2:!l ; ii. l.'O
Oame I,ist, ii. ;f.">2
'(iap di' Duiiloe,' i. 2:t« ; ii. •'>-'
CiasirofHulii, ii. 224
(ieoaraiiiiieal discoverie-i, i. 2.")2
(ieoliiiry of —
Arctic re.t;iitiis, ii. 2:!'.i
Brcv(jort Island, i. .')'.»
Cape Aclaiid, i. 4S, .")4
— Alexander, i. fs
— 4Iil^'ard, i. !•!
— Isaliella, i. '>'
— Miircliistiii, ii. 141
— Na)iiilei)ii, i. i'l
.— Old.seii, i. .">1
-- Saliiiie, i. .'i.'), *i2
— Vi(M(iria. i. Ml
("ary l.'slaiids, i. !.">
Discovery Bay (area anniud),
i. 114
r':ilesniere Land, i. •'>'.• !
Foulke Fiord (sides ol'), \.'>0, ryl
Franklin Pierce I'.ay (side of),
i.Sl
(Jrinnell Land, ii. ;«27
Hakluvt Island, i. 47
Hall liasin, ii. :{27
Hartstene Bay (south side of),
i.41i
llilpivd Bay (shore of), a. 71
Lievely, i. 17
Life Boat ('ove, i. ."1
iSl'Corniick Valh'y, i. :M 1
Mount .hdia. i. :t27
Norman Lockyt'r Island, i. 8."),
'.tl
Northumlierland Island, i. 47
Payor Harbour (islands ni^ar),
i. ()2
Polaris Bay (vicinity of), i. .'{:'.!•
I'lI.'U
(leoloj^v of
I'rI.ven, i. 2H. :(1
Sontau- i'.ay (shore of), i. Is
Sutiierland Island, i. IS
Twin (ilaeier Valley, i. >'<'■'
l'|ierni\ik. i- •!!
Srr ii/k(i Aji/i- ii- •'>27
Ilesullsof the Kxpedition, ii. ;i27
(ie|iij\rea, ii. 2."i'.t
(ieniiaii Arctic Lxpedition, i. '.»,
12 L If. I; ii. 1 HI -1 '■'■'>
(iilVard, Lient., i. 140. 14:!. ISS,
2o;;. 2i'.t, 2.-.i.2.s:i, :u L m,-., :!2o
;i2;i, ;{.".:! : ii. •'^, i'>. i''» •'''"'' ■"•'"• "'•
72, 141
- - extract from journal ol, i. :i2l
(ilacial drift, ii. ;i:ii
(ilaciation, ii. Hit)
Glacier i(M'-clilfs without di'hris at
hase, i. 27
(ilaciers, i. 17, 27.41, 4:?, 48. ('.•'-, r>7.
sc, ',10, '.II, ;<;);5, :i;m ; ii- ' i'. ''•''
k;.-., 1711
filire.s. ii. 202
(Tnatho|i(ida, ii. 21fi
Gnei.ss, i. 2S, .■.<); ii. ;12H
Godhavn, i. :<, 22
Gndthaab Fiord, i. H
Good, J., ii. 24. 27, :!('. 42
Goodhaah district, i. 12
G(.uld I'.iiy, i. '.i:i; ii. l.")t
(iraah, i. 7
Grant Land, i. lo'.l. Ill, 2.-.."., 2S:i,
:i( !."> : i i . 1 < »■">
Grasses, ii. :i2, (i7, 7S
Gray, A., ii. ".ir>- 1 1:!
Greenland, i. :t, 8-4<;, ."i.".. tlo. 12L
KIL HI.") 17(i, 2:i!i, 210, 2ir)-;t07,
;{14, :i2.'>, :i:!r., ici'.i, :uo; ii. 8, 47,
r,l, 70, S4-SS, 127, 141, 151, Kit),
178-1S7. 207, :!>i2 ;ii 1. ;;.".(>
— ice-stream of. i. 7
— jiarly, prow't'dinus of. ii. 82
'Greenwich Observatory," i. 177.
ISit, 211,221
Grinnell Land, i. 74, Si, los 111,
121, 247, 248, :524, :{2(J, :{;i2 ; ii.
47, 48, 142, I.")l. 170. 171, 17(1.
i^'uinr.. ;!10
remarkable insect fauna of,
ii. 2:111
_. ._-- g-eolojrical structure of the
coast of, ii. :{27
paucitv of filaciers in. ii. :!i:i
firrrde Fioril. i. 1 1
VOL. II.
15 15
:'>70
INDKX.
Oiiid.' Hill, ii. 10
(iiiillcmols, i. •_':', :il, 10, II. IT ;
ii. '-'If
(iiills (ivury-vMilis, \(;.), i. Id. II.
C.L', '.Kl; ii'. L'Kt, L'l I
(lull -col lull, IrllliiNill nj' ici' liV, ii. 77
( i mipiiwdi'i'. i( '1111 1\ 111 III' ice li\ , ii. 77
( liiiil liiT, |)r. A., nil till' li'lil liyiildL'y
III' ilir KN|icilitii>ii, ii. L'ls
(iiiy I'liwki's" Hiiy. i. I '.Ml
(ivmiuii-i \iii(lis, ii. lM'.i
nAKMVr Isliiiid, i. 1(1. 17
Hiilrliiiiiiliiiil;!', ii. L'.'iH
Haliliiil, i. i:i
Hull, cjiiiiiiin ('. K.. i. ;!o, i;!(>. \r,->,
:;i:!
— (Niini (if, i. ;{|H
— ^zriivf 111', i. :io:!, :i;t.")-:i.'ii>
Hull's lliisin, i. IOC, I01». 117. '2Ai,
:{(>:!, :;;t I, :t:t,-): ii. c.h, 71.'. s;!, 12s,
I •_".», i:!i, 1. •(.■), 14)1
— - • jiculduical .stnict HIT uf llir
coast III', ii. Ii27
- !,!iiiil, ii. '>'J
- Hist, i. :io:{, :!:!s ; ii. 82, 8;!, i:Ji
Hiiiiil, ,1., ii. IKi !m; I
ili'iith of, ii. 82, IM) !
niiniiiih Island, i. 108, 111 '
Hans Island, i. I0.~<, III
' Haiisa," till', i. !t, 121
Harclda >.;la('ialis, ii. '.i't'J, 'Mi'.\
llaiTs, i. Ill, 102, 111, i:!7. 172, 2157.
211. :ii2, :{| I, :i24, :t2s, .'tiu, :{:!'.•,
:<.')2, :i.">l, :{('is, :!'.mi; li. lo, ;{2, 71,
i:!(), i,-)8, 201, ;{.".2, ;{."):( j
Harlcv, i. :i'.H
Harlcy Spit, i. :i.")0
Hart,' Mr., i. !I0, :(:!.">: ii, I;"):), r.ul,
:i2:{
Hailstciii' I'.ay, i. 21. H ■..■> : i'. I2;i
Jlaiiu'litdii, 1!('\'. S., nil 1 idai iiiisorva-
tiiins made liv tlir I'Aiicditinn, ii.
:i.-)fi
Hawkins, i. :{(i7. liC'.i
Hayes, Dr., i. :!(». ,-.:!, 7'.t, 88, 101 :
ii. (in
Haves Sound, i. i\'>- ~',i, !•! : ii. Id:!,
l'(i7, 174, :tl(i
Heer, Prol'. (>., on the Minoelie-
sliale fossils uf (irinnell Land, ii.
Heindricli, Hans, i. 2!l, 40, ;;o;'.-:!l 2 ;
ii. 82, y()-ll2, 182
101
Hi miiilera fAnoiilura), ii. 'J'.t7
||--|eri«. ii. I l(»
llil'.'anl l!ay, ii. 74
llll_ard,('a|itaiii, i. !'(>
Il'ilwiih. l.iiMil., ii. *.)*>
HiilfmeytT. Cajitain N'., i. 207
ll'iliiiliiiroidea. ii. 2tll, 2(12
HiiNleililinr;.', i. I I
Hunker. Sir .1. !•.. mi llie linlanieal
result- iif tlie lv\|iediliiiii, ii. Iltil
Hiitnaii femur, liiidin;.' uf, ii. I i:t
Hiimlile-l i. 71
Hiiiiiliiildt (ilacier, i. iM'i, lo.'i ; ii.
<;i. Hi.*.
HuniiiiiK-ks. luweriiij' sIciIlics over,
i. 2S7
— Iitdts uf. i. ;t."i7
uf two colours, i, ;!78
Hydrii|iliiiliia. i. '.H, I 7(i
Hydrii/iia 1,'esiilts uf tin' IsxiuMli-
"tioii. ii. 2'.tO
Hyinoiiuptera. ii. 2;{."i
If'E of Oroonland, oriirin of, i. 7, !•
— middle, i. :!7
— coiiiinonci-ment of ditliculty
with, i. (iO
— vast tliickncss of, i. 7!>, il5
— attempts to wuv, i. !);{
— heavy ])olar, i. 12'.>
— fiiriiiation of. liy snow falling'' on
.salt water, i. i:t7, l('i8
— used fur drinkiiij.'- purposes, i. 1(!S
— (uiitra<;tiiiii of, i. 22(i. 22H, 2:{ll
— maximum thiekiiess of, i. ;H4
— tem|ic'niture of water under, i.
37fi
— colours In, i. .'178 ; ii. 02
— youn".', foujrhness of, ii. loit
— water-]H)olson. /SVr Water-pools
— trriiwih of, ii. 'tj, 03
— ileeay of, ii. ."»0
— Iireak-uji of, ii. 71
— of the I't'terinaim (ilacier, ii..3l0
Nr I'olar ice.
Iccber-s, i. 8, 14-2.-), 41, 42, 72, 75,
88, H2; ii. 184
— fasteninfr ships to, i. 20
— jlinieiisions of, ii. 101
Ico-hlink. i. 't3
Icc-lioiit, i. o;>
k-e-o;ip, ii. 72. :H4
— alisence of, in CJrinnoU Land, ii.
348
INDKX.
-H
i';x|ii(ii-
ICK
l«!u-fliisi. ii. f.l. *>J
Ic.-l'iM.i, ii. I 17. His, l<;:i, ;;Kt
Irc-liiiiLrt'. i. -"•"'
Ifivliiiimiii'clN-., i. '.'I
1(!('-Slll'illll of < iicciiliinil, i. 7
lc(-\viili, li. ii:.. in;, i:.:t
Iw-wavf.-., ii. I'.t. L'O
Icflaml Kill's •• **• •^''' "/■•"' ''""^
Icfliis liiiiiiatiis, ii. lilS
Ichlliyitiu^y Jtfsiilts of liic K.\iii'-
(iilioii, ii. L'lH
* 1-1.. us," i..Vt; ii. l.SH, iM'.t
liij^iclicicl, .^ir Ivlwaril, ii. IS
lii-l.'litld (iulf. i. IS
hisccta— Kc-uii- 111 ihc lvx|Hiiiii(iii,
ii.l'id
Insccl-raiiria ut Liriiincll hand, ii.
2:;'.t, :(:!7
Insects, i. 70
♦ Invest ijratur.' tins i. I 'J I
Ii-eland's Kyi-, ii. IS
In.n of Oviliik, i. 17. IH
Ifoll-stolies, liieteorii;, so-eiliieil. i. 1 7
Isojioda, ii. ~i'-i
IviiTtiit, i. 207
I\()iy-jj:ulLs. ,Sec tiulls
T.XCOiiSilAVN. i. 17
»J .l.'iiiies ][<'S^ i'.ay, i. :)L'I, :',-2-J,
liL'c, ; ii. 10. 1 1.:!2, ;('.•
.Jonkiiis, \V., ii. loo 112
Jensen I'oiiit, i. .")4
.Joe Island, i. lOti ; ii. M
.lolin r.rnwii Coast, i. 10.">
,](>lin Kvans (ilacier. i. 87; ii. U'>\
.loiiirtc, T., i. :U7, :v.i4
JollitVt! (ilacier, ii. 147
.Jones, Captain L. F., i. 2, 21
Jones, I-'., ii. ".t7-li:i
Jones Sound, ii. 4S, 181
— — , probatily most direct io\ito
from J?aftin".s I'.ay 1o Polar Sea,
ii. 48
Judjie Daly Peninsula, i. :W4
Junirernianniiu, ii. 3i;j
■ Kayaks, i. '.'o. .U\
Keniied\, Mr., i. 1 7t>
Kei I'y Chainiel, i. 10| 111, 2:11 ;
ii. (IS, 72, 7S, Sli, 12.". i;is, 1 I."., 1 lii
i Ke|.|.el, .\iliuiial llie ll'iii. Sir II.,
! i. 2
K(ii|.id"s Head, i. ii:.;! ; ii. 1 1".
■ • Kew ()l..-iei\alory,' i. 177, I"''.", 21S,
221
Kini^'atak Island, i. 2S
Kit(!lieii-iniddens, near I'llali, i. .">l
Kittiwakes, i. ;i, f. ; ii. 21 I
lvni,trlit Island, i. 1 I
i Kn(it, the, i. 1 1."., :!2:i, ;il7 : ii. To,
SO, 211
Knot llarliour, i. ;i2;t ; ii. 2, :>
L.\I)|KS" MILK," i. I'.tl, 200,201,
22."., 2:12, 2:!li
Ludy Kranklin Sound, ii. SI, loC,
112, lit;, US, 2.-..-., 2S4, :!os, :i:i2,
;!;ii; ii. (IS, 12:., i;t2, 144, II.-.
strait, i. :i:(2 ; ii. i:!'.t
liiifayette I'.ay, i. lO'l
Lapipiis rui)estris, i. 7t>; ii. 210,:>-.2,
Lake-bottoms, mud on bonlers of,
i. :n5
Lakes, fro/en, ii. T.S
Laniimiria, i. 1!», 110, 111 ; ii. :ii:>
Lancastcn- Sound, i. I2:!, 12S, KKI,
i:v,t, 2;t(l; ii. ISO, I SI
Land, absence of, northward, ii.
4S, 51
Larus <.;laucus, i. 45 ; ii. 214
- leucopterus, i. 14
Larva; of mo.s(|tiitoes, i. 22
l..atitude of extreme i.oini readied
l.y the K.x|iedition, i. 17:1; ii. 112
Jjawrencis i. JiSS, ;;"I4
licaf-imiiressions in shales, ii. 141
Leconle Island, i.-58
Lectures for the lra\ellers. i. 2(i:>
lA'tVerts (ilacier, ii. 17;{, 174
Ije,LrKutt, (i., ii. 84
Ijei,'uniinosa', ab.^ence of, in S|.iis-
ber^en and (ireeidand, ii. ;!07
Lcmminu.s,i. 121, 2:i7, 241, 24(1, :i20,
•i:i'.i, :!.-.(;; ii. i!», i'.i:i, 202, ;i44
KANK, Dr., Expediti(m of, i. IW,
(10. SO, 101, 101, 1<;5 ; Lepidodendra, 11. :!:il
KaiKt's Sea. ii. 7.5. 12.5, 147, 15:J, 17(J | Lepid..ptera, 11. 2;!5
Kaiii-'itok, i. :il,:{5 * Lei.usiilacialis, 11. ;i;>2, ;!.)..
Kasorsoak Island, i. :}l I Lurnieopoilidic, u. 24*
It It
') I
INDEX.
Mil
I
ip
'Si
P
T.IC
1-iclicns, i. :!:{".» ; ii. :50!l. ;?1(»
Licvcly, i. 1."). 17 : ii. IS;:', IS.'J
liifcliiiat ( 'ovu, i. ."iO, r>l
Lij^nito near Cajio Muicliitsdii, ii.
141, 142
— of (Iriinu'll Ijand, ii. '.V,i'>
Liiiipjiiico, use nl', fur iircxi'iifion of
sou'rvv, i. 2."»0, :V,i\, lUS, :i81, ;{',i;! ;
ii. is:{
Limcstonr fossils, i. :{27 : ii. l.";;!, l.").">
Lincoln Hay, i. US Il'C, 28.S, 21)."),
:!U», ;m2; ii. xr>, l-JO-\-S.i
[.ijiai'is fabricii. ii. L'l'.i
Littleton Island, i. al, .")!', ;"!>, (',-2 ;
ii. 174. 17.-.
'Loomcrics,' i. L'L'. 'M, 44
Tjoonis, i. 'J'J : ii. 21.")
LonimiT, i. ',i\il-'.i'S.i
Liimlii'i(U(la', ii. l!5!t
I^unibrineit.'i(l;i.', ii. 258
MACKENZIE Kivor, i. 7;»
.M'l'lintock, Sir Tjt'o]iol(L on
use of linic-juicc by Arctic voy-
aiTcrs, i. 2r)t)-'J5S
— roforcncu to, ii. 47
M'( iintocls Clianncl. i. 124
M'C'huv, Sir J{., i. 7'.l, 124
M'Corniick I'ass, ii. Id'.t
— Vall(>y. i. :!17, :U(), ;!H
Mcintosh, Dr. \V. (.'.. on llio Anne-
lida collected by the Expedition,
ii. 2.")7
McLachlan. Mr. J\,, on tlii> Insecta
ano .Vrachnida collected by the
Ex|K'dition, ii. '2'M
:\liikkak Kiver, i. 27
Malley, ii. :i, 4:!, 44
Mallophaua, ii. 2;i7
Mammalia— Hesults of the Expedi-
tion, ii. 1!I2
Mann. ii. ;!0, :!.-.. :W
Markliam, Commander, i. .")1, .iti. fi.^,
8(», H2, !•:!, HS-Kll). 117, i;?0. I'C)-
14:5, 148 1. -.4. l.-.O. l(;!)-]73, 187,
188. 242, 2.-.4. 2.1.-.. 2C,3. 274- 27t!,
28H. lioi. :i()2. Sir. :{i7. :U4-:U8 :
ii. 1, r.. 8. 10, 4(1. 48, ,->:{. (12, i:?:i,
1.-.8, i(;8-^i7r.
— ninet(n'n days" journey of, i. 1(5!),
170
— on tlie aije of Polar tines, i. 24;?
— ordor.s to, respecting the north-
ern sledue-ioiirnev. i. IMS
MOS
Markham, Commander, extmct
frnni j.iurnal of, relaiinir l<i the
iiiirthcrn sIccIlii'- journey, i. li.'.O
- conckisions of, res|ieetin!r the
norlliern sledLre-join-nej', i. ;!!•'.
— o?i the growth of I'olar ice, ii. (i2
.Markham Hall. i. \:U\, 1C.4
.Maskeij. i. ;{.><.-.. :;'.u
.Maury I'.ay, ii. I .'.O. 1.-.;!. l.-.t.
May.'l.icuV. i. t;:i. S7. IH, l.-.l. 274.
2'.m;. ;!1()-;;i7, :i2.-., :u.-., :{'.i((, :ut;{ ;
ii. :!. 8, 4:4
Mecliam. ii. 47
Medusa', ii. 2'.>1
.Mi'lvilje liay. i. 21, :i7, 41. 8t ; ii.
ICC, 181
— Island. 1. 7!>, lO'.l. 121, 121, 2;{8 :
ii. C, C.->, 7.-), :i(»2-;>l 1
Membraniporida". ii. 28,")
Mer-ulus aile. i. :>'.K 21.-.
MeteoroloLiieal .\bsiract — ' .\lert '
and ' l)ise i\ery.' ii. '.i'A
' Mi<ldh' ice." i. :>7. 40
Maiiiiu-ht sun. i. 2117
.Mie"s, Mr. E. J., on the Crustacea
collected by the Expedition, ii.
2KI
]Miller. Mr.,i. :J0'.»
Milne I'.ay. ii. 2C
]Mioeene. ii. I!:.!!
Miraae. i. 27'.t; ii. I I. :!.-.2
MitciicU. I)., ii. !t, 40-4C.
— .Mr., i. :508. -$12. :il7; ii. !.->;{
Mitten. .Mr. \V.. on Mosses and
Junucrmannia' collected by th-
Ivxpedil ion, ii. V>]'.\
Aloistur(^ in tJie .\rciic slu[»s. i. 17!»,
2211. 2:>o
Ali'ildrup. ( ioy., i. 28
MoUnsca, i. 84 : ii. l.-.C
— liesults of tlie Expedition, ii.
22.'!, :!42
Monodon monoceros, i. 41 ; ii. I!t7
Moon, monthly bulletin respeclinjjr,
i. I'.tl
Moons, mock, i. l!l.->
Morton, Mr., i. 104
Mosfpiitoes, i. 22. 71
Mo.ss. Dr., i. 81. ;tl. li:^ i:i7, i:!S,
1 <;'.». 187. 20:?. 20'.t. 22.-.. 2:57, 211,
2C7, 27(i-27'.i, 28;{. :{oi,:{02. .'ms.
;<i:f, :ii!i, .'Ui). :j4s, ;{r,2-;j.-.4. :47c,
:?77, ;{'.i:i: ii.42. r.;{. -.4, C1,C7, 71,
1:50. 1 i;i. I. -.2, I.-.7. ;i2:{
— on formation nf I'olar Ijoes. ii. ".'.t
INDKX.
ay a
' Alert '
MOS
Moss. |)r.,i>1)scvviitii)ns onscii-watL-r
by, ii. 158
i'uuilysis of scii-wiifcr by, ii. Hit
oil Siiu'ittii biimncti'tii, ii. /'.">'••
Moss, Mr. R. J., analysis oi coal by,
ii. :{;;:
Mosses, i. ;{:'>;»; ii. 21, 78, iU!?, Ii:!.-
Moths, i. 71
Mount Albert, ii. 10")
— Hartlc-Fren-, i. U-'.')
— ("arev, i. '■•4
— Hall, i. 24.")
— Hooker, ii. '.I7 10")
— Joy, i. !)(■>
— Julia, i. KiO, :!2.-), ;i27
— Mavy, i. ISO
— May. ii. W
— Neville, i. :^:v-'>
— Parrv, i. 120
— i'ull.''n, i. 274, 27."'). :i8i>
— Punch, ii. 10.")
— Kawlinsoii, i. ;{2."')
__ Wyiitt, ii. It7
Mountain avens, ii. 78
ISIud overlying- tertiary deiKisils,
ii. :i:u
:\Iud-be(ls of (irinncll Land, ii. :it4
Murchison Snund, i. 18
Mushroom Point, i. :!.")(), iV.M ; ii. 4(i
Musl<-oxen. i. (!8, 71.8'.t, 111!, 120,
•)80, 281. ;i24,:{28, :!:U : ii. 51,54,
7:i, 124, i:!2, :ui, :!52, :i5:J
musky lastc of meat of, i. 2IU,
2:i5, 2:57
^lyodes loniuatus, i. 121: ii. 202, :>44
Mysida-, ii. 2 4.'?
VfAPKS, Captain Sir ncovtre, ex-
i\ tracts from journal of, i. 2H,
18(5, i:5'.i, 14(1, lli4, 185, 2(11, 2'.I7 :
ii. 2, 4(1, 52, 118, 121, 142, 15C).
lt)7, 171
- arran-emiMit by, of diet for
sledu(-]iarties, i. 258
— on the northern sled.ue-jouniey,
i. :its-:i'.i5
— on results of the nortliern and
western sledge-journeys, ii. 48
— orders of, to Lieut. I'.eaimiont.
ii. 8()
Narwhal, i. 41, (VJ. 71 ; ii. 1V»7
Natives of ("ape York, i. 41
Neai-sighted nuMi, their advantage,
i. 22'.>
r.\o
Nereiibe, ii. 25^
Newman Uav, i. KXi, Ml. 11^, :!1/,
•S;{(;-;!4:?; ii. 72. ".I7. ion. ill. 125
Night, darkness of, in high lati-
tudes, i. 150
Ninnis, Dr.. i. 7(1, '.14; ii. •'><■•
Norman, Itev. A. .M.. on the Oceanic
Copepoda collected by the Ex-
pedition, ii. 24'.>
Norman Lockyer Island, i. 81, 8i),
;•! : ii. l(;8-'l74
— — ~ limestones of, ii. :i2'.>
North, farthest point reached, i.
!7:i; ii.:io-:$2
North Pole, impossibility of reacli-
ing by sledging, ii. 51
_ 1.. n„t to l)e reached through
Smith Sound, i. ;)2lj^
North Somerset, i. 177
'North Water," i. 40
Northern Sledge .Journey, abridged
account of, i. H48
Northumberland Island, i. 45-47
Norway spruce, ii. :{:!5
Nostoc aiireum, ii. 01
Noursoak Peninsula, i. 27, 2'.t, 5;) ;
ii. 141
Nyctea scandiaca, i. 121 ; a. 208
' Nym]ihon, ii. 5:$
Nymphoiiidu', ii. 248
015SFUIVATION PE.Vlv, ii- :V,)
Observatories, magnetic and
astronomical, erection of, i. 177
Observatory Hill, i. l'.»4
OHiey Island, i. ii2: ii. :i40
Oligocha'ta, ii. 2.50
Oliver, Prof. 1>.. "H llowering plants
collected by the Expedition, u.
:iio
' Oo-sook,' the, i. i'<'->
Ophiuroidea, ii. 2(12, 272
Ornithology Uesults of the Exi)e-
dili.in, ii. 201!
Osliorn, Sherard. reference to, i.
2:i:5; ii. 48
Ostracoda-llesults of the Expe-
dition, ii. 25:i
Ovibos moschatus. ii. Ii44, :?52, '^oA
Ovifak, i. 17, !«
ti
! ,
1 i
>.\(;OPllILA EBUKNEA, i. 40;
ii. 2i:i
374
INDEX.
PAL
' PaliEucryst ic ' llocs, i. ;i(il, ;{C2
I'iiliuozoic rocks, ii. ;{28
' I'liiulom,' tlic, i. It!; ii. 114, lo7,
172, 174, ISO, 182, 185
Papaver lUKlicauh-, i. 4(i ; ii. :U()
rarasoloiia, i. I'.K"), 208
Parhelion on each .sidu of tlie sun,
1. 2(;5, aoi
Parker, .T., 1. 1.55
Parr, Lieut., i. 71, 144, 148, 1(>1»,
172, 184, 2:$7, 2.55. 2G:i, 272, 278,
283, 302, 344, 352-37;$, 387-3l»l,
3'J5; ii. 3, !t, 45, 53-5.5, (;2, "0,
71,75,77, 12i>, 130, 14!t
arduou.s walk of, 1. 345
Parry, Captain, echinoderniata v\>-
taincd by, ii. 281
Parr}', Sir E., i. 7il, 124, 151, 155,
173, 180, 254, 31*5; ii. (18, (i!t
— on ventilation of ^^rctic .sliijw, i.
180
Parry Islands, ii. 48, lid
— Peninsula, ii. 11, 38
— Hock, i. 20
Paul, C, ii. 100-112
— deatli of, ii. 82, 113
Payer, Lieut. J., i. 5'.t
Payer Harbour, i. (il, ()3 ; ii. 173,
170,313
Peabody Pay, i. JKi
Pearce, i. 3()7, 372
Pearson, i. 3114
Peat-moss, ii. 335
Pedicularis, i. 17; ii. 303
'Penknife ice,' ii. (58, ()!>
Pennj-, Captain, echinoderniata ob-
tained by, ii. 281
Permian rocks, absence uf , in Arct ic
rcfjions, ii. 333
Petermann Fiord, i. 107, 111,112,
255, 33!>; ii. iM), 138, 344
— Glacier, 1. i)G ; ii. 1(!5
report on, ii. 34()
Petersen, N. C, i. 2()i;, 301, 313, 315
— illness and death of, 1. 2Cl», 318,
311)
Petrels, i. 4
Petty, H., i. 308
Plialaropc, ii. 211
Plioca barbata, i. (!3 ; ii. IHO, 353
— grienlandica, 1. 40
— hispida, i. 40 ; ii. 1U5, 344, 352,
353
Phylh)i)oda, ii. 246
Phyllodoeidie, ii. 258
PON
Pii^eons, i. (i, I'.ill
Plants, i. 33',i: ii.lu, 141, 310, 331
334
— llo\verin,ir, collected by the Ex-
pedition, ii. 310
— of the ' llr.si sta.uv.' ii. 331, 332
- of (Jrinnel! Land, ii. 330
Plant -bearinj; shales, ii. 334
Plovers, ii. 210
Point Hayes, ii. 154
— Koldewey, i. (!!>
— Moss, ii. 3(5
— Sheridan, i. Ki'.t
— Stubbs, ii. 33
Polar floes, formation of, ii. 5'.l
saltness of, ii. (10
— ice, vast power of, i. '.M!
heavy, i. 12'.)
formidable nature of, i. l."i(i,
13tt, 148, 233, 231
crack in, i. 243
jiower of, i. 247
■; dilference between, .and an
ordinary floe, ii. 117
— lands, elevation of, i. 247
— pack, i. 233
— — • ice, impediments to travelling
over, i. ;i!l5
— Sea, thickness of ice in, i. 7!)
llobeson Channel openinjj;
into, i. 102, 111
shore of, i. 127
cnterin.ir, i. 134
'Polar Sea, Open.' ii. 207
Polaris Bar, i. lOO, 111, 112, 278,
303, 304,31 3, 334 343 ; ii. 5, 8, C.S,
82, 83, it5-lt7, 108-112, 12t; 140
'Polaris' Exjiedition, i, 51, 54, 1 12,
11(5, 117, 125, 127, 13'.», 140, lH'.t,
253, 2(i2, 272, 284, 313, 33(1, 340;
ii. .52, 78, 83, 125, 14(1, 17(), 188-
192
Polaris Peninsula, ii. 124
— Promontory, i . Ill, 117
Poles, doubtful if snow is ever
melted at. ii. 7.
iSre also North Pole
Polyclueta, ii. 258
Polycystina, ii. 2!l'.»
Polynias, oi' waterpools, i. 231.
See Waterpools
I'olynoidie, ii. 258
Poly/oa— Result soft he Expedition,
ii. 283
Ponds I lay, ii. 181
INDEX.
3/0
ror
Poppies, i. 17; ii. 21. :?2, 7S
l'orpi)isi's, ii. 182
l>(irl Kdulko, i. 41, 51, ("."i, r,;; ; ii. 05,
1 4:5, 1 75
Porter, G.,i.:JfiO-:i(l!t
— death of, i.:528,:545,:V.»2
I'ortsnioutli, (k"i)arturo of the Ex-
pedilion from, 1. I
— return to, ii. 185
Tossessioii Hav, ii. 180
I'oteiitilla, i. 4(5; ii. IIK?, ail
President "s Land, i. 127
I'ria] ail idle, ii. 251)
I'rince Imjierial Island, i. 8it, HO;
ii. 157-I(i2
Prince of AValcs Mountains, i. 48,
•i7, 72
Prince Patrick Island, ii. 47
Princess Marie Bay, i. 80, 81, 85;
ii. 1(;4, 170
Proccllaria "i-lacialis, i. iJ ; ii. 214
— pela^ica, i. 4
Prolo<rue spoken at the Roj-al Arctic
Theatre, i. 215
Protococcus nivalis, i. 16
Proven, i. 28-:n ; ii. 18.3
Ptarmi!,^an, i. 40, 70, ill, 114, 1H5,
158, 210, 2:58, 272. 275, 312, HI 4,
;?lit, :i24, :?Hi>, H54 ; ii. 10, 210,
:?52, :?5:$
Pteropoda, ii. 22:1
Ptychofa:;tria polaris, ii. 20O
Piithnas anir'ionini, i. :^
— griseiis, i. 7
— major, i. 4
Pullen, Rev. H. W.,i. 120, 187, 215,
2:$2, 244, 240, 270, 28:?, 2!t0
— proloLaie, and lines on the sledpe-
traveilers, by, i. 215 : ii. 4!»
Pycnogonida, ii. 248
QUEEN, II.M. the. conLrratulat ions
from, on the departure and on
the return of the E.Kpedition, i.
1 ; ii. 180
RABIES among tiie ,sledge-dogs,
i. 175, 170
Kadiolaria, ii. :100
liadmore, J., i. :i47, :iS5, ;W4
lladmorc Harbom-, ii. 147
KOY
Piae, Dr., on use of lime-juice by
Arctic voyagers, i. 257
Raised l)eaches, i. :U1 ; ii. 0(i, 15:5,
1 54
Ramu-.culus, ii. 78
Ravens, ii. 158, 20;t
Ravine Bav, ii. 40
Rawlings,T., i. 110, 384, .188
Rawlings Bay, ii. 140
Rawson, Lieut. W.. i. ttO, 114, 117,
1.1.5-140, 152, 15:5, 100. 107, 171,
1'.I2, 240-24'.t, 255, 250, 20:i, 200,
201), 27:1, 282-284, 288, 2112, 21(8,
.•{05-:?08, :{:{1». ;?40; ii. 85, 80, 110
••7, lll-U:!, 127-1:J2
— attack by, on musk-oxen, ii. i:!2
Rawson Headland, i. i:i5
Ravner, E., ii.DO
Razor-bills, i. 22
Record Point, i. XVi
Red snow, i. 10, 4:^
Reef Island, ii. 101, 10:i
Refuge Harbour, i. 80
Regan, i. 27:i; ii. DO
Reindeer, i. 5;$, 54, 08, 80; ii. 188,
11)8, .144
Rensselaer Bay, ii. 151
— Harbour, i. 00, 104
Repulse P.av, i. :140
— Harbour, i. .105, :{10, mi ; ii. 88,
8'.), 1)5, 107, 125
' Resolute,' the, i. 2:?0, 200 ; ii. (>5
Return of the Expedition, ii. 140,
185
Rhizopoda reticularia, ii. 205
Richards. Sir G. H., on use of lime-
juice by Arctic travellers, i. 250
— referenco to, ii. 48
Ricliardson, Sir John, ii.
Ricliardson Bay, i. 101 ;
Rissa tridactyla, i. :? ; ii.
Ritenbenk, i. 21-24, ;12
Robeson Channel, i. 102, 111, 112,
117-145, 15:i, 107, 174, ISS 227,
••':{4, 242, 240, 202, 272, 285, 208-
:?:52; ii.5:i, 70-87. 114-i:U, 112
Rock-cod, i. 20
Rock-crvstal llakes from arrow
licads"! ii. 128
Rockhill, ii. 04
Ross, Sir James, i. 155, 250
Ross, Sir John. i. 0 ; ii. 1S7, 281
Routine in Arctic shijis, i. 212
Roval Arctic Theatre, i. 105, L'OO,
215, 2:? 1
,08
ii. 140
214
O T I'
IXDKX.
SAI!
SAHELLID.!:, ii. lT,')
Siin:ittii, ii. 25'.»
m
Sail Hai-bimi', ii. :{7
Sailin^''-ur(l('rs of tlic Kx]U'(lili(iiK i.
p. xi.
Saint (lcori.''i''s I''innl, ii. W, 10.")
— Tatrick's I'.av, i. !-'<>: ii.fiS, lao,
132, \:i(i
Harlioui". i. 2'.M, -J'XJ
Salmo aliiK's, ii. 221
— arctiinis, i. ;{2!i ; ii. 220
— namsii, ii. 220-222
SalnKMi-lisliin^- al Disco, ii. iS2
Saliiion-troul, species of, i. 20
Salt in sea-water ice, i. KiH
Saltiiess of I'ular Hoes, ii. Oo
Salt watiT, action of snow on, i. i;{7
Salt-water ice, nieltinii-jHiint of, i. 7
— tliickness of, i. 7'.'
Sanderliniis. i. :i2',) : ii. 21(1
Sanilersoirs lIo])e, i. '.]\
• Sastriiiii." i. 21S. 222.2;!2. 2SS. :i()7 :
ii. 1.-) 22
Sa.xica\ie, ii. 'Mi
Saxicola a^nantlie, i. 2'.i : ii. 207
Saxifrajra o])positi folia, i. 2liH : ii.
207
Saxifraues. i. 17, ;i2!l ; ii. 2, 21. :{2,
(i7, 7s, no, r.i:{, 2o:i-2i2, :io2, .•ui
Scalihrefiiniila', ii. 2.")S
School estal)lislie(l for the crew, i.
187
Scoresliy on SpilsherLi'en iei'. i. "'.•
— Hay.i. loo. lol, KM! : ii. loO
Scurvv anionust the crews, i. 2.">(;,
2S4', ;iM, :ns, :i2:i, :i2i. icu, :!14
;m(;, :{7:{. wr, ; ii. n. 22, :i;i.;u, .-.o.
.SI, 82, 8.->. ;i:!, 101!
— amnnsrst the Kskimo, ii. ISli
— committee for in(|uirinLi' into
causes of. i. 2.">ii : ii. Sii
Soa.t em) icrat lire and spec i tic i:ra\ity
of, i. 7, 8. 72, 210, :i20; ii. I.-)8,
]i\i, 180, 181
— discoloration of, i. 1 1
-- o-roen colour of, ii. 1 I'.t
Sea-bed, raised, i. 217
Sea-1)ot1om otf Torske Hank. i. Ill
Sea-water, analysis of, ii. 1(U
Seaweed, i. I'.l. Ill: ii. •">:!■ •'>•
Seals, i. 8, 10, (;2, 71. 110. i:!7. 27;t ;
ii. i:{0, l.-)2, 182, 188, I'.t.-,, ;i.-,2,
Seal-skins, sui)]>ly of, for tlie tra-
vellers, i. lit, 22r. !
,SNO
I Self, .1., i. .'ill. :il7: ii. :!. 41, I.",
^enusul)erites arctica, ii. 2;);{
. Sextants, effect of (told on (jiii<'k-
silver of. i. 27'.t
Shales, ii. :{:i:t
Shearwaters, i. ;{, 4, 7
Shift Kudder I!ay, i. 2111, 21)2
I Ships, fasleninii' them t(j iceherjjs,
I i. 2(1
I — j;aileys of, impi'ovenient in, i. I41>
' Shirley,'.!., i. :{.-.8-:{72, ;il)4
Sliortest day, i. 20!)
Shortness of Ijreath, coni])laini.s of,
i. 2:i(;
Sickness of sled^'-(!-crcw, i. I{4(i.
tSir Scurvy
Silurian limestones, ii. :\2'.K 'Ml
Simmond.s' Island, ii. 4.")
Simmons,.!., i. l,-,0, I.").-,, 241>. 27:5.
21I.",. 2!lli, ;{|4
Sinnnons Island, i. ;{.->l
Simpson, i ;i84, ;{8S
Skale Island, i. 28
Skua. the. i. :!Sl): ii. l>I4
Sky. norlliern. colours of, i. 248
Sladen. .Mr. W. Percy, on the
i'chinoderinata collected by the
Kxpedition, ii. 2()0
Slcduo-crews. diotjiry of. i. 2.")ll
- exercis(( of, i. 27H
— .sickness ainonust, i. .'Uti
— address to, i. :!|8
SledL;e-drivin;j-, i. 8l'
Sle(lL;-e-e(|uipments, weiuiht of, i.
172
Sled^ics, carryin.i:' ice-boats on. i. (11$
— ]ireparation of. i. 277
Sleduin--. i. 128. 151 -17:{: ii. 4(1, 84
- results of atitunni iournev bv. i.
1 7:'.
SleepinL:-ba;js. i. ;i,)|
Smith, llerr Inspeklorand .Mrs. K..
i. 1.-). 17. 21 ; ii. 182
Smith. Mr, K. .\., on Mollusca col-
lected bv the Ivxi^'dition, ii.
22:i
Smith Sound, i. I!, 21, 41 72. 80.110,
128, |;!7. 227. 2.-),-,. 278, :{|:{: ii.
17, l.-.l, l(i:i-17(>, 21)(i-:ilO, .•(.•,2
North I'ole unattainable by
route of. i. :i2ti
animals procurecl in. ii. ;{."i2
Snow, action of, on .salt water. I.'!7
- decay of. i. :{|0; ii. 7!i
• — ovapnration of, i. 225
5
INDEX.
'Ml
324;
20;
5
"^ SNO
Snow, iridescent colours of, i. 336
— on the uplands, i. 273
— red, i. 16, 43
— space beneath, i. 225
Snow-blindness amontjst the tra-
vellers, i. 2i)8, 302, 352-360, 373 ;
ii. 14, 27, 96
Snow-bunt ingrs, i. 16, 21), 115,
317-321), 339, 347, 386; ii. 26,
32, 33, 209
Snow-buntings, pleasure of hearing
first notes of, i. 115
Snow-crystals, i. 205
Snow-dust, i. 221
Snow-houses, i. 177
Snow-house Point, i. 155
Snow Point, ii. 107
— Valley, i. 354, 389
Snowy-owls, i. 121, 278, 324: ii.
67, 208
Somateria mollissima, i.
352, 353
— spectabilis, i. 20 ; ii. 352, 353
Sounding for land at the farthest
point reached, ii. 31
Specific gravity of sea-water, i.
376; ii. 158, 164, 184
Spitsbergen, i. 9, 79, 1.55 ; ii. 141,
301
Sponges, ii. 156, 293
Spongida— Results of the Expe-
dition, ii. 293
Spoons, horn and metal, i. 299
Spring travelling, i. 253
Spruce, Norway, ii. 335
Stalknecht Island, i. 59
Starfish, i. 110
Stars, i. 196, 199, 207, 222, 2.H2,
236, 263
Stellaria, ii. 193
Stephenson, Captain, i. 41, 53, 56,
59, 70-75, 80, 86, 94, 103, 116,
153, 174, 200, 233, 255, 256, 284,
303, 308-312, 332-339 ; ii. 68, 82,
83, 126, 131, 143, 14.5, 161, 170,
185
Stephenson Land, ii. 105
Sterna macrura, i. 117 ; ii. 4, 207
Stomatopoda, ii. 243
Stones, circles of, ii. 189
Sform-petrels, i. 4
Strepsilas interpres, i. 115, 329; ii.
207
Stubbs, ii. 34-38
Stuckberry, i. 323
VOL. II. <-' ^
TRI
Sun at midnight, i. 13, 35, 88, 297
number of days' absence of, i.
223
— parhelion on each side of, i. 265,
301
— power of, in Polar regions, ii. 7
Sunrise Point, i, 50, 51
Supplies, storage of, i. 21
Sutlierland Island, i. 48, 49
Svarte Vogel Bay, i. 24
Svarten Huk, i. 27, 29
SvUidie, ii. 258
T^NIA, ii. 193, 194 ■•
' Tegetthoff,' the, i. 62, 250,
395
Tem;x>rature of sea- water, i. 7, 8, 18,
72, 240, 320; ii. 158, 164, 180,
184 .
— low, first experience of, i. 134
— of the earth, arrangements for
registering, i. 140
— unusual rise of, i. 202
— at different licights from the
floe. i. 242
— of the ship in winter, i. 250
— mean, of Feb. 1876, i. 262
— of water beneath the ice, i. 376
Terebellidic, ii. 258
Terns, i. 8.5, 117; ii. 4, 213
Terraces, formation of, li. 342
'Terror," the, i. 124
Tertiary rocks, ii. 333
Thank God Harbour, i. 262, 284, 338
Thaw, commencement of, ii. 8, 52,
67, 80
Theatrical performances, i. 195,209,
211,231
Thermometers, affected by ice, i.
240
— difficulty of comparing, i. 264
spirit, comparison of, i. 241
Tliomback, ii. 3, 43
Three Sisters Island, i. 67, 69
Tidal observations, i. 119; ii. 356
— registers, i. 218
Tidaf-cracks in the ice, ii. 52
Tidal-wave under ice, pulsation in,
ii. 53
Tobacco-pipes, freezing of, u 224
Torske Band, i. 11,13
Tossukatek Glacier, i. 24
Transit instruments, fixing, i. 184
Trichecus rosmarus, ii. 352
mmwn
;:?■
a78
IXDKX.
I
TRr
Trijjlops pingt'lii, ii. 218
Tril()l)iit', ii. 155
Tiin-iacanutiis, i. 115, 320; ii. 207
Tn ciiii.s, i. 110 ; ii. 51
Tnkiiif!;!irsak, i. 28
Tiinnstorics, i. 115, .^20; ii. 210
Twin ({lacier Valley, i. r.7-Gt», 121
Tyndall Glacier, ii. 171>
UNGITLATA, '\ 1!I8
United S,..,os Mountains, i.
l.SO. i'il, 148, lOfi, ir.7, 2:{!t, 275,
U7, ;• , 324, 333 ; ii. 5, (',7, 105,
i3i;
Upernivil<, i. 34, 35, 207; ii. 181
• TIarhour, i. 32, 34
IJria -■ He, ; i ii. 214, 352, 3.53
Ijrnnla iiartii. li. .".20
' Ursa stage,' ii. 331, 332, 345
VALENTIA Harbour, ii. 185
'Valorous,' the, i. 2,3,8, 15.
21-25; ii. 25(;, 21H;
Vegetation in tlic Arctic regions,
i. 241, 251 , 272, 312, 328, 331t, 347 ;
ii. 32,78, 140
Ventilation of Arctic sliips, i. 170
Vcsicularia<1:u, ii. 280
Victoria Head, i. 100
— Lake, i. 155
— Mountain, i. fi2, 100, 333
View Hill, i. 353
— Point, i. 150; ii. 40-4'.'
Vulpes lagopus, ii. 352, 353
W AIG AT Straits, i. 21-26; ii. 181
Walrus Slioal, i. 81, 85 ; ii. KiO
YEL
Walruses, i. 8, 40, 71,82; ii. 152,
170, 188, 10(1,352
Ward Hunt Island, ii. 10, 24, 25, 32
Wasliington Irving Island, i. 88 ;
ii. 100, 1«1
Washington Land, i. 9(5, 105
Watercourse at Cape Slier idan, ii. 05
Watercourse Bay, ii. 141, 142
Water-pools on ice, ii. 55, 08, 72,
121, 130, 134, 14.3, 144, 1.50, lOO
Western sledge journey, ii. 10
Wevprecht, Lieut. C, i. 02, 250,
305
Weyjirecht Islands, i. 06 ; ii. 173
Wind in the Waigat, i. 20
— rebound of, from a steep, i. 228
Winstone, i. 304
W^inter, preparations for, i. 174
Winters of (Jreeidand, i. 32
Whale Fish Islands, ii. 182
— Sound, i. 48; ii. 178, 180
Whales, i. 7, 71 ; ii. 182, 184, 107
Wheat found at Polaris Bay, i. 340
Wheat ears, i. 20
Wliiddon, Mr E., i. 22
White, Mr., i. 283, .301
Wind, Arctic navigation greatly
dependent on, i. 110
Wolstenholmc Island, i. 44
Wolves, i. 270, 302, .351, 300 ; ii. J 02
WooUev, i. 322, 323
Wootton, Mr., i. 145, 147, 237, 310,
317, 310; ii. 76
Wrangel Bay, i. 120, 121, 200, 204 ;
ii. 123
Wyville Tliomson Glacier, ii. 174
YKLVERTOX Bay, ii. 27, 30
1 Young, Sir Allen, i. 10,
4.'
255 ; ii. 114, 129, 172-175, 1 80, 1 85
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