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'^rRITEKOFTIIKWFST.
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l^IFE AiS^D A.DVE5T0EE
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^lOUNTAlNS IHD OIIEGON;
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THE RIYER OF THE WEST.
-♦♦♦-
LIFE AND ADYENTUEE
Uf TBI
ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND OREGON;
IHBRACIHa BTlttTS I» TH« Ufl-TIMB OF A
MOUNTAIN-MAN AND PIONEER:
WITH TBI
Early History of the North-Western Slope,
AN ACCOUNT OF THE FOR.TRADERS, THE INDIAN TRIBES, THE OVERLAND IMMIGRA-
TION, THE OREGON MISSIONS, AND THE TRAGIC FATE OF
REV. DR. WHITMAN AND FAMILY.
ALSO, A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY,
ITS CONDITION, PROSPECTS, AND RESOURCES ; ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, AND SCENERY ;
ITS MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, VALLEYS, DESERTS, AND PLAINS ; ITS
INLAND WATERS, AND NATURAL WONDERS.
■WITH NTJaiEROTJS KKrGHI,A.VINa-S.
BY MRS. FRANCES FULLER VICTOR.
FUBLISH2S B7 SOBSCaiFTIOiT 0»L7.
HARTFORD. OONN.:
.BLISS & CO,, NEWARK, N. J. ; W. E. BLISS & CO., TOLEDO, 0.:
B. J. TRUMBULL & CO., SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.
1870.
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Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 18fi9, by
R. W. ULISS & CO.,
In the Clerk's OflRce of the District Court of the United States for the District of
Connecticut.
ic District of
•WE FIND THEM, ACCORDINGT-Y, HARDY, tITHE, VIGOROUS, AND AC-
TIVE : EXTRAVAGANT IN WORD, IN THOUGHT, AND DEED : HEEDLESS OF
hardship; DARING OF DANGER; PRODIGAL OF THE PRESENT, AND
THOUGHTLESS OF THE FUTURE. — Irving.
v<
INTRODUCTION.
When the author of this book has been absorbed in the
elegant narratives of Washington Irving, reading and
musing over Astoria and Bonneville^ in the cozy quiet of
a New York study, no prescient motion of the mind ever
gave prophetic indication of that personal acquaintance
which has since been formed with the scenes, and even
with some of the characters which figure in the works just
referred to. Yet so have events shaped themselves that
to me Astoria is familiar ground ; Forts Vancouver and
Walla- Walla pictured forever in my memory ; while such
journeys as I have been enabled to make into the coantry
east of the last named fort, have given me a fair insight
into the characteristic features of its mountains and its
plains.
To-day, a railroad traverses the level stretch between
the Missouri River and the Rocky Mountains, along which,
thirty years ago, the fur-traders had worn a trail by thei
annual excursions with men, pack-horses, and sometime
wagons, destined to the Rocky Mountains. Then, they
had to guard against the attacks of the Savages ; and in
this respect civilization is behind the railroad, for now, as
then, it is not safe to travel without a sufi&cient escort.
To-day, also, we have new Territories called by several
names cut out of the identical hunting-grounds of the fur-
traders of thirty years ago ; and steamboats plying the
rivers where the mountain-men came to set their traps for
beaver; or cities growing up like mushrooms from a soil
IV
INTRODUCTION.
made quick by f^old, where the hardy mountain-hunter
pursued the buH'alo herds in search of hia winter's supply
ol' food.
Tlic wonderful romance which once gave enchantment
to stories of luirdship and of daring deod ', suffered and
done in these then distant wilds, is fast being dissipated
by the rapid settlement of the new Territories, and by the
familiarity of the public mind with tales of stirring adven-
ture encountered in the search for glittering ores. It was,
then, not without an emotion of pleased surprise that I
first encountered in the fertile plains of Western Oregon
the subject of this biography, a man fifty-eight years of
age, of fine appearance and buoyant temper, full of i*i.ec-
dotc, and with a memory well stored with personal recol-
lections of all the men of note who have formerly visited
the old Oregon Territory, when it comprised the whole
country west of the Rocky Mountains lying north of Cali-
fornia and south of tlie forty-ninth parallel. This man is
Joseph L. Meek, to whose stories of mountain-life I have
listened for days together; and who, after having figured
conspicuously, and not without considerable fame, in the
early history of Oregon, still prides himself most of all on
having been a "mountain-man."
Most persons are familiar with the popular, celebrated
.idian pictures of the artist Stanley ; and it cannot fail to
/iter est the reader to learn that in one of these Meek is
represented as firing his last shot at the pursuing Savages.
He was also the hero of another picture, painted by an
English artist. The latter picture represents him in a con-
I test with a grizzly bear, and has been copied in wax for
the benefit of a St. Louis Museum, where it has been re-
peatedly recognized by Western men.
It has frequently been suggested to Mr. Meek, who has
now come to be known by the fsnaPhc title of "Uncle
INTRODUCTION. ▼
Joe" to all Oregon, that a history of his varied ail ventures
would make a readable book, and some of his neighbors
have even undertaken to become his historian, yet with so
little well-directed efforts that the task after all has fallen
to a comparative stranger. I conff^ssto having taken hold
of it with some doubts as to my claims to the office; and
the best recommendation I can give my work is the inter-
est I myself felt in the subjec fit; and the only apology
I can offer for anything incredii' c in the narrative which
it may contain, is that I " tell the tale as 'twas told to mc,"
and that I have no occasi: iT to doubt the trutli of it.
Mr. Meek has not attempted to disguise the fact that he,
as a mountain-man, "did tho.se things which he ought not
to have done, and left undone those things which he ought
to have done." It will be seen, by referring to Mr. Ir-
ving's account of this class of men, as given him by Capt.
Bonneville, that he in no wise differed from the majority
of them in his practical rendering of the moral code, and
his indifference to some of the commandments. Yet, no
one seeing Uncle Joe in his present aspect of a good-
humored, quiet, and not undignified citizen of the " Plains,"
would be likely to attribute to him any very bad or dan-
gerous qualities. It is only when recalling the scenes of
his early exploits in mountain life, that the smouldering
fire of his still fine eyes brightens up with something sug-
gestible of the dare-devil spirit which characterized those
exploits, and made him famous even among his compeers,
when they were such men as Kit Carson, Peg-Leg Smith,
and others of that doughty band of bear-fighters.
Seeing that the incidents I had to record embraced a
period of a score and a half of years, and that they ex-
tended over those years most interesting in Oregon his-
tory, as well as of the history of the Fur Trade in the
West, I have concluded to preface Mr. Meek's adventures
VI
INTRODUCTION.
with a sketch of the latter, believing that the information
thus conveyed to the reader will give an additional degree
of interest to their narration. The impression made upon
my own mind as I gained a knowledge of the facts which
I shall record in this book relating to the early occupation
of Oregon, was that they were not only profoundly roman-
tic, but decidedly unique.
In giving Mr. Meek's personal adventures I should have
preferred always to have clothed them in his own peculiar
language could my mefmory have served me, and above
all I should have wished to convey to the reader some im-
pression of the tones of his voice, both rich and soft, and
deep, too ; or suddenly changing, with a versatile power
quite remarkable, as he gave with natural dramatic ability
the perfect imitation of another's voice and manner. But
these fine touches of narrative are beyond the author's
skill, and the reader must perforce be content with words,
aided only by his own powers of imagination in conjuring
up such tones and subtile inflexions of voice as seem to
him to suit the subject. Mr. Meek's pronunciation is
Southern. He says "thar," and "whar," and "bar,"
like a true Virginian as he is, being a blood relation of one
of our Presidents from that State, as well as cousin to other
one-time inmates of the White House. Like the children
of many other slave-holding planters he received little at-
tention, and was allowed to frequent the negro quarters,
while the alphabet was neglected. At the age of sixteen
he could not read. He had been sent to a school in the
neighborhood, where he had the alphabet set for him on
^ a wooden "paddle;'' but not liking this method of in-
struction he one day "hit the teacher over the head with
it, and ran home," where ho was sulTered to disport him-
self among his black associates, clad like themselves in a
tow frock, and guiltless of shoes and stockings. This sort
INTRODUCTION.
Vll
of training was not without its advantages to the physical
man ; on the contrary, it produced, in this instance, as in
many others, a tall, broad-shouldered, powerful and hand-
some man, with plent} of animal courage and spirit,
though somewhat at the expense of the inner furnishing
which is supposed to be necessary to a perfect develop-
ment. In this instance, however, Nature had been more
than usually kind, and distinguished her favorite with a
sort of inborn grace and courtesy which, in some phases
of his eventful life, served him well.
Mr. Meek was born in Washington Co., Virginia, in
1810, one year before the settlement of Astoria^ and at a
period when Congress was much interested in the question
of our Western possessions and their boundary. "Mani-
fest destiny " seemed to have raised him up, together with
many others, bold, hardy, and fearless men, to become
sentinels on the outposts of civilization, securing to the
United States with comparative ease a vast extent of ter-
ritory, for which, without them, a long struggle with Eng-
land would have taken place, delaying the settlement of
the Pacific Coast for many years, if not losing it to us alto-
gether. It is not without a feeling of genuine self-congrat-
ulation, that I am able to bear testimony to the services,
hitherto hardly recognized, of the " mountain-men " who
have settled in Oregon. Whenever there shall arise a
studious and faithful historian, their names shall not be
excluded from honorable mention, nor least illustrious will
appear that of Joseph L. Meek, the Rocky Mountain Hunt-
er and Trapper.
i
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SUNSET AT THE MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA.
There sinks the sun ; like cavalier of old,
Servant of crafty Spain,
H*'. flaunts bis banner, barred with blood and gold,
Wide o'er the western main ;
A thousand spear heads glint beyond the trees
' In columns bright and long.
While kindling fancy hears upon the breeze . s
The swell of shout and song.
And yet not here Spain's gay, adventuious host
Dipped sword or planted cross ;
The treasures guarded by tliis rock-bound coaat
Counted them gain nor loss.
The blue Columbia, sired by the eternal hills
And wedded with the sea,
O'er golden sands, tithes from a thousand rills,
Rolled in lone majesty —
Through deep ravine; through burning, barren plaiiii
Through wild and rocky strait.
Through forest dark, and mountain rent in twain
Toward the sunset gate;
While curious eyes, keen with the lust of gold.
Caught not the informing gleam.
These mighty breakers age on age have rolled
To meet this mighty stream.
Age after age these noble hills have kept,
The same majestic lines ;
Age after age the horizon's edge been swept
By fringe of pointed pines.
Summers and Winters circling came and went,
Bringing no change of scene ;
Unresting, and unhasting, and unspent,
Dwelt Nature here serene I
ix
.K
Till God's own time to plant of Freedom's seed,
In this selected soil ;
Denied forever unto blood and greed,
But blest to honest toil.
There sinks the sun ; Gay cavalier no more I
His bpnners trail the sea,
And all his legions shining ou the shore
Fade into mystery.
The swelling tide laps on the shingly beach,
Like any starving thing ; 1'
And hungry breakers, white with wrath, upreach.
In a vain clamoring.
The shadows fall ; just level with mine eye
Sweet Hesper stands and shines,
And shines beneath an arc of golden sky,
Finked round with pointed pines.
A noble scene ! all breadth, deep tone, and power,
Suggesting glorious themes ;
Shaming the idler who would fill the hour
With unsubstantial dreams.
Be mine the dreams prophetic, shadowing forth
The things that yet shall be,
When throujrh this gate the treasures of the North
Flow outward to the sea>
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ILLUSTEATIONS.
.,it
Paos.
Portrait of Joseph L. Meek. — Frontispiece.
The Enlistment, - - - - - - - 42
The Summer Rendezvous, .... _ 48
Beaver-daM; .....---66
The Three "Bares," -92
The Wrong End of the Tree, - - - - - 94
Branding Cattle, ------- 150
The Mule Fort, -----.- 155
The Free Trapper's Indian Wife, - - - - 177
Descending the Blue Mountains, - - - - - 211
The Bear in Camp, - - - - - - 219
Satisfkd with Bear Fighting, - - - .- - 221
The Trapper's Last Shot, - - - - - 229
The Squaw's Escape, - -. - - • - -231
A Buffalo Hunt, ------- 246
The Missionary Wedge, .--.-- 274
Wrecked in the Rapids, . . - . - 336
The Cascade Mountain Road-Hunters, . - - - 374
Massacre of Dr. Whitman and Family, of the Presbyterian
Mission, ----.... 410
Meek as Steamboat Runner, ----- 441
"Take Care Knox," - 461
A Mountain-man in Clover, ----- 451
Gov. Lane and Marshal Meek En Route to Oregon, - - 476
Oregon Beaver-money, ------ 486
Meek as United States Marshal, - - - - -
Mt. Ranier from Puget Sound, ----- 5GI
She udan'b First Battle-Ground, Columbia River, - - 568
Cas'-le Rock, ------- 5^9
Horse-Tail Fall, - - - - - - -570
View on the Columbia, ------ 571
Mt. Hood from the Dalles, - - - - - 878
CONTENTS
Pasi.
PREFATORY CHAPTER.
Astoria — Fort Vancouver — Its isolated Position— Precautions against In
dians — The Hudson's Bay Company — Its Policy and Intercourse with
the Indians — The Arrival of the " Brigade " — Other Yearly Arrivals — .
Punishment of Indian Offenders — Indian Strategy — A Hero — The
American Fur Companies — Their Dealings with the Indians — Ashley's
Expeditions to Green River— Attack on Smith's Party— Wyeth's Ex-
peditions—Fort Hall — Decline of the Fur Trade— Causes of the Indians'
Hostility — Dangers attending the Trapper's Life, - - - 23
CHAPTER I.
Early Life of Meek — He leaves Home — Enlists in a Fur Company — On
the March — A Warning Voice —Frontier Sports — Last Vestige of Civil-
ization— On the Plains — A first Adventure — A firm Front — A Parley —
The Summer Rendezvous — An enchanting Picture — Tlie Free Trap-
per's Indian Wife — Wild Carousals — Routine of Camp Life — Smoked
Moccasins versus Green Ones — A " Trifling Fellow," - - .41
CHAPTER II.
The Camp in Motion — A Trapping Expedition — Opposition to the Hud-
son's Bay Company — Beautiful Scenery — The Lost Leader Found —
Rejoicings in Camp — The "Luck" of the Trappers — Conference of
Leaders — The "Devil's Own" — Blackfoot Character — Account of the
Tribes, ---.----- 57
CHAPTER III.
How Beaver are Taken — Beaver Dams — Formation of Meadows — Beaver
Lodges — " Bachelors " — Trapping in Winter — " Up to Trap " — Black-
feet oh the Trail — On Guard^The Trapper's Ruse — A disappointed
Bear — A Fight with Blackfeet — " Out of Luck — Alone in the Moun-
tains— Splendid Views — A Miserable Night — The last Luxury of Life —
The Awfulness of Solitude — A Singular Discovery — A Hell on Earth —
A Joyful Recognition — Hard Times in Camp — The Negro's Porcupine —
Craig's Rabbit — Deep Snows — What the Scout saw — Bighorn River—
" Colter's Hell " — An Alarm — Arrival at Wind River — Christmas,
CHAPTER IV.
Removal to Powder River — A Trapper's Paradise — The Transformation
in the Wilderness — The Encampment by Night — Meek takes to Study —
64
xii
CONTENTS.
1
i
i
Paoi.
On the Move — Loss of Horses and Traps — Robbed and Insulted by a
Bear — Crossing the Yellowstone — A Novel Ferriage — Annoyance from
Blackfeet — A Cache Opened — A Comrade Killed — Rude Burial Serv-
ice— Return to Rendezvous — Gay Times — Tlie old Partners take Leave, 82
.::,:'.'>:'..■:. .','.-.-'' CHAPTER V. Ay- I ..
Grizzly Bears — An Adventure with a Grizzly — The Three " Bares " —
The Mountain-Man's Manners — Joking the Leaders — The Irishman
and the Booshway — How Sublette climbed a Tree and escaped a Bear —
Rival Trappers — Whisky as a Strong Card — Ogden's Indian Wife —
Her Courage and Escape — Winter Quarters — Crow Horse-Tliieves —
An Expedition on Foot — Night Attack on the Indian Fort — Fitzpatrick
Missing — Destitution in Camp — A "Medicine-Man" consulted — "Mak-
ing Medicine" — A Vision Obtained — Fitzpatrick Found — Death of
Smith — An Expedition on Snow-Shoes, - - - - 90
ri
' CHAPTER VI
Annoying Competition — The Chiefs Daughter — Sublette Wounded —
Forty Days of Isolation — Sublette and Meek captured by Snake In-
dians— A Solemn Council — Sentence of Death — Hope Deferred — A Res-
cue— The "Mountain Liirab" — An Obstinate Rival — Blackfeet Ma-
rauders— Fitzpatrick's Adventures in the IMountains — " When the Pie
was opened the Birds began to Sing " — Rough Sports — A Man on Fire —
Brigades ready for the Start — Blackfeet Caravan — Peaceful Overtures —
The Half-Breed's Revenge — A Battle — Reinforcements — Death of Sin-
clair— Sublette Wounded — Greenhorns — A false Alarm — Indian Adroit-
ness— A Deserted Fort — Incident of the Blackfoot Woman — Murder of
a Party by Blackfeet, - - - • --108
CHAPTER VII.
The March to the Humboldt — Scarcity of Game — Terrible Sufferings —
The Horrors of Thirst and Famine — Eating Ants, Crickets and Mules —
Return to Snake River — A lucky Discovery — A Trout Supper — The
Country of the Diggers — Some Account of Them — Anecdote of Wyeth
and Meek — Comparison of Indian Tribes — The Blackfeet — The Crows —
The Coast Tribes and the Mountain Tribes — The Columbia River
Indians — Tlieir Habits, Customs, and Dress — Indian Commerce — The
Indians of the Plairs — Their Dress, Manners, and Wealth — The Horses
of the Plains — La guage — The Indian's Moral Nature — Hungry and
Hospit..ole Sava . — A Trap set for a Rival — An Ambush — Death of
Vanderburg — Sku-mish with Blackfeet — The Woman Interpreter taken
Prisoner — Bravery of her Husband — Happy Finale — Meek Rescues the
" Mountain Lamb " — Intense Cold — Threatened by Famine — The Den
of Grizzlys— Second Daniels, - - - - --119
CONTENTS.
XIU
CHAPTER VIII
Pa«i,
A Visit from Blackfeet — Tlie Green River Rendezvous — A " Powerful
Drunk" — Mad Wolf— A Friendly Warning— A Trip to tlie Salt Lake
Country — Meek Joins Jo. Walker's California Expedition — Instinct of
the Mule — On the Humboldt River — Massacre of Diggers at Mary's
River — Vain Explorations — Crossing the Sierra Nevadas — Hardships
and Sufferings — ITie Sacramento Valley — Delight of the Trappers —
Meeting with Spanish Soldiers — A Parley — Escorted to Monterey — A
Hospitable Reception — The Native Californians — Visit to the Mohave
Village — Meeting with Trapp and Jcrvais — Infamous Conduct at the
Moquis Village — The Return March, . - , - . 141
CHAPTER IX.
In the Camanche Country — A Surprise and a Rapid Movement — The
Mule Fort — A Camanche Charge — Sure Aim — Another Charge — More
Dead Indians — Woman's Weapon, the Tongue — Fearful Heat and Suf-
ferings from Thirst — The Escape by Night — llie South Park — Death
of Guthrie — Meeting with Bonneville — Indignant Reproaches, - - 154
C H A P T E R X .
Gossip at Rendezvous — Adventures in the Crow Country — Fitzpatrick
Picked by the Crows and Flies from Them — Honor among Thieves —
Unfair Treatment of Wyeth — Bonneville Snubbed at Walla- Walla —
He Rejects good Counsel — Wyeth's Tlireat, and its Fulfillment — Divis-
ion of Territory, - - - - - - -,- ICO
■-■■■- " •* CHAPTER XI.
In the Blackfoot Country — A Visit to Wyeth's Trappers — Sorry Expe-
riences— Condolence and its EflTect — The Visitors become Defenders —
A Battle with Fire and Sword — Fighting for Lite — The Trappers' Vic-
tory— A Trapping Excursion — Meek Plays a Trick and has one Played
on Him — A Run to Camp — Taking up Traps — A Blackfoot Ambush —
A Running Fire — A lucky Escape — Winter Camp on the Yellowstone —
Interpretation of a Dream — A Buffalo Hunt and a Blackfoot Surprise —
Meek's Mule Story, .-.----.
CHAPTER XII. *
Setting up as a Family Man — First Love — Cut out by the Looshway —
Reward of Constancy — Beauty of Umentucken — Her Dress, Her Horse
and Equipments — Anecdotes of the Mountain Lamb — Her Quarrel with
The Trapper — Capture by Crows — Her Rescue — Meek Avenges an In-
sult— A Row in Camp — Tlie Female Element — Death of Umentucken,
166
175
XIV
CONTENTS.
Paoi.
CHAPTER XIII.
Visitors at Rendezvous — Advent of Missionaries — "WTiat Brought Them —
Bonneville's account of the Nez Perces and Flatheads — An Knthusiastic
View of Their Characters — Origin of some of Their Religious Observ-
ances— An Indian's Idea of a God — Material Good Desired — Mistake
of the Missionaries — First Sermon in the Rocky Mountains — Interrupted
by Buffaloes — Precept and Example — Dr. Whitman's Character — The
Missionaries Separate — Dr. Whitman Returns to the States, - - 181
CHAPTER XIV.
Meek Falls into the Hands of Crows — The Story as He tells It — He Packs
Moccasins, and Bears the Jeers of the Fair Sex — Bridger's Camp Dis-
covered and the Lie Found out — A Desperate Situation — Signaling the
Horse-Guard — A Parley with Bridger — Successful Strategy — Capture
of Little-Gun — Meek Set at Liberty with a New Name — A Fort Be-
sieged by Bears — A Lazy Trapper — The Decoy of the Delawares —
Winter Amusements — The Ishmaelite of the Wilderness — March
through the Crow Country — Return to Green River — Punishment of the
Bannacks — Consolidation — An Excursion — Intercepted by Crows — A
Scattered Camp — The Escape, - - - - - 189
CHAPTER XV.
An Express from Fitzpatrick — The Approach of Missionaries Announc-
ed— The Caravan Welcomed by a Party of Trapjiers — Noisy Demonstra-
tions— Curiosity of the Indians — The Missionary Ladies — Preparations
in the Indian Villages — Reception of the Missionaries by the Nez Perces
and Flatheads — Kind Treatment from the Hudson's Bay Company —
The Missionaries' Land of Promise — Visit to Fort Vancouver — Selection
of Missionary Stations, - - - - - - - 201
CHAPTER XVI.
The Den of Rattlesnakes — Tlie Old Frenchman — How to Keep Snakes
out of Bed— The Prairie Dog's Tenants at Will— Fight with Blackfeet —
Policy of War — A Duel Averted — A Run-away Bear — Meek's Best Bear
Fight — Winter Quarters on Powder River — Robbing Bonneville's Men, il4
CHAPTER XVII.
A Dissipated Camp — A Crow Carousal — Picked Crows — A Fight with
Blackfeet— Manhead Killed— Night Visit to the Blackfoot Village—
" Cooning a River " — Stanley the Indian Painter — Desperate Fight
with Blackfeetr— " The Trapper's Last Shot "—War and Peace— In the
Wrong Camp — To Rendezvous on Wind River — Mr. Gray, and His
Adventures — Massacre of Indian Allies — Capt. Stuart Robbed by
Crow« — Newell's Address to the Chiefs, . - . _ 221
CONTENTS.
XV
Paoi.
- 237
CHAPTER XVIII. ,,
/)cclinc of the Fur Trade— Wild Scenes at Rendezvous— A IMlssionarjr
Party— Entertained by a War Dance— Meek in Armor— Deserted by
his Indian Spouse— The Tursuit—Meek abuses a Missionary and Kid-
naps; his Wife— Meek's Black Eyed Daughter— Singing for ti Biscuit-
Trapping Again— A hot March, and Fearful Suffering from Tliirst —
The Old Flathead Woman— Water at Last,
■ ' ■ ■ -■• ■ •■ ■•'—■"/■
CHAPTER XIX.
A Chat about Buffalo Hunting— Buffalo Horses— The Start— The Pur-
suit—Tlie Charge— Tumbles- Horsemanship— The Glory of Mountain
Life How a Nez Perce Village Hunts Buffalo— Kit Carson and the
Frenchman on a Run — Mountain Manners, ... - 246
CHAPTER XX.
The Solitary Trapper— A Jest— Among the Nez Perces— Their Eagemesa
to be Taught— Meek is Called upon to Preach —He modestly Complies
Asks for a Wife — Polygamy Defended — Meek Gets a Wife— The
Preacher's Salary— Surprised by Blackfeet— Death of Allen —The Last
Rendezvous — Anecdote of Shawnee Jim — The new Wife Missing —
Meeting with Farnham— Cold and Famine— Succor and Food — Parties
at Fort Crockett — Setting up in Trade — How Al. Saved His Bacon —
Bad Times — War upon Horse Thieves — In Search of Adventures —
Green River Canyon — Runninsj Antelope — Gambling — Vain Hunt for
Rendezvous — Reflections and Half-Resolves — The last Trapping Expe-
dition, - - - - -- - - -
251
" CHAPTER XXI.
A new Start in Life — Mountain-Men for Pioneers — Discovery of the Co-
lumbia River — What Capt. Gray Did — What Vancouver Did — The
United States' Claim to Oregon— The Treaty of 1818— Plans for Colon-
izing Oregon — Yankee Enterprise — Hall .T. Kelley — Ball and Tibbits —
Execration of the H. B. Company — First Missionaries to the Wallamet —
Their Reception— Three Points in the H. B. Co. Policy— The Political
History of Oregon — Extracts from " Thirty Years in Congress " — Ben-
ton on the Oregon Claims — The Missionary Wedge — Character of Dr.
John McLaughlin — Hospitalities of Fort Vancouver — The Mission Re-
inforced— Other Settlers in the Wallamet Valley — IIow they Regarded
the Mission— The California Cattle Company— Distribution of Settlers, 264
CHAPTER XXII.
Westward Ho ! — Opening Wagon Roads — Republicanism — Fat Pork for
Preachers — Mission Work at Waiilatpu
lamet — Wagons Left at Walla-Walla-
2
-Helen Mar— Off for the Wal-
The Dalles Mission — Indian
S^
XVI
CONTENTS.
Paoi.
Prayers — The Missionaries and the Mountain-Men — The Impious Cana-
dian— Doing Penance — Down the Columbia — Trouble with Indians —
Arrival at the Wallamet — Hunjjer, and Dependeni'e on Fort Vaneouvcr —
Meeting Old Comrades — Setlliug on the Tualatin I'lains — A disagreeable
Winter — Taking Claims — Who furnished the Seed Wheat, - - 279
^•i,\
a
CHAPTER XXIII.
Wealth of the Methodist Mission — Waste of Property — Influence on the
Indians — What the Mission Board Did lor Oregon — A Natural Se-
quence— Policy of the Mission regarding Other Settlers — Memorial to
Congress — Trying Position of Dr. McLaughlin — How He Directed the
Power of the Hudson's Bay Company — Fear of Catholicism — The Mis-
sion Party and the American Party — llie Story of Ewing Young— A
Historical Character — Some Opinions of the Writer — Position of the
Mountain-Men in Oregon, ------
288
CHAPTER XXIV.
Scarcity of Employment — Wilkes' Exploring Expedition — Meek Employed
as Pilot — Interchange of Courtesies at Vancouver — Unpleasant Re-
minder— Exploring the Cowelitz — Wilkes' Chronometer — Land Expe-
dition to California — Meek Discharged — Gleaning Wheat — Fifty Miles
for an Axe — Visit to the New Mission — Praying for a Cow — The Great
Event of the Year— The "Star of Oregon "—Cargo of the "Thomas
Perkins" — Salvation of the Colony, .... - 296
- ■ CHAPTER XXV. * '
The Brooding of Events — The Balance of Power — First Cargo for the
American Market — Fourth of July — An Indian Agent for Oregon —
Reception of Inmugrants — Indian Agent iij Governor — Dr. AVhitman
Visits Washington — The "Ashburton Treaty" — Emigration from Mis-
souri— Discontent of the Indians — Missionaries Threatened — Mrs. Whit-
man leaves Waiilatpu — Dr White Visits the Indians — A Code of Laws
for the Nez Perces — Cayuses avoid an Interview, . - -
304
I'rl
VI
11
_^ , C H A P T E R X X V I .
The Plot Thickens — Forms of Government Discussed — The Wolf Associa-
tion— Suspicions of the Canadians — A Committee Appointed — Tlieir
Report Accepted — The Die Cast — Address of the Canadians — Officers
Elected — Meek Elected Sheriff — The Provisional Government — Notable
Laws — Indian Disturbancei! in the Upper Country — The Agent Leaves
for a Visit — Mr. Hines and Dr. McLaughlin — Dorio the wicked Half-
Breed — Account of the Indian Troubles — Particulars of the Indian Con-
ference— The Missionaries AVarned, ----- 316
n
CONTENTS.
XYll
CHAPTER XXVII.
■ ; 'I
Paoi
Arrival of the Immigration at the Dalles — Wagons Abandoned — Condition
of tlie People — Aid from the Hudson's Bay Company — Perils of the
Columbia — Wreck of a Hoat— Wonderful Eseajje — Trials of the New
Colonists — The Generous Savage — The Harefoot Lawyer — Meek's
Pumpkin — Privation of the Settlers — Going Shopping — No Mails — Ed-
ucation and Literary Soeic^ties — Attemj)! to Manufacture Ardent Spirits —
Dilemma of the People— An Appeal to Dr. White— The Sheriff Destroys '
tlic Distillery — Anc<!dote of Dr. White and Madam Cooper — Meek
Levies on Her Whisky — Meek and "The better Part of the Communi-
ty "—First Official Aet of the SherilT, 833
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Excitement about Indians — Dr. White's Flogging Law — Indian Revenge —
Raid of the Klamaths — Massacre of Indians — Affray at the Falls —
Death of Cockstock — Death of LeHreton and Rogers — Meek's Advice —
Ilis Policy with the Indians — Meek and the Agent — The Borrowed
Horse — Success of the New Government — Ambitious Designs — Negroes
and Liquors Interdicted — Taxation Opposed — Defeat of the Independent
Party, - - - - 347
CHAPTER XXIX.
The Oregon City Land-Claim — Enmity of the Mission to Dr. McLaugh-
lin— His Possessory Rights — Attempts at a Settlement — Mr, Waller's
Trifling — Double Dealings Extraordinary — Various Propositions — Ric-
ord's Caveat — Tlie Doctor's Devotions and Inital "' / — A Settlement
Effected — The Several Parties — Uneasiness at Fort Vancouver — Des-
perate Characters — Dr. McLaughlin Asks for Protection — The Situation, 355
CHAPTER XXX. ^.
ITie American Organization — Oath of Membership Modified — Dr. Mc-
Laughlin Unites with the Americans — Unwelcome Visitors at the Fort — '
The British Government Promise Protection — Disagreeable Results of
Espionage — The English Officers — Wonderful Transformation — Tem-
perance— Courts — Anecdote of Judge Nesmith — Memorial to Congress —
Ludicrous Legislative Proceedings — Audacity Triumphant — Growth of
Improvements — New Towns — Early Days of Portland — An Indian Ca^ i
rousal — Meek "Settles the Indians" — Reader's Query, and Answer —
The Immigration of 1845 — The Road-Hunters — Hunger, and Peril— rA
Last Request — Succor at the Last Moment — A Reason for Patriotism, 364
CHAPTER XXXI.
Difficulty of Collecting Taxes — A Ponderous Currency — Dr. McLaughlin's
Ox — An Exciting Year — Abrogation of the Treaty — The Boundary
L
il
xvin
C0NTFNT3.
Paqi.
Qiii*tion — Fifty-Four-Forty or Fight — Caution of the (lovornmcnt —
War VessoU in the Coliiuibia — Lo«» of tin; Sliarit — Mock Roccivi's a
Saluti'— Sclii'iU'lc Arrt'sti'd — 'I'lie Color-Stand of tlitr Sliarlc — Tin; Agony
OviT — 'i'l'rnis of I lie New Treaty not Aj^ri'i'alile to tho Orogoniuns —
Disappointment of the I Iiidsou's Bay Company, - - . -377
CHAPTER XXXII.
Colonial Gossip — The Orep;on Sptsctntor — Overland Mail Speeial — Theat-
[ rieals on Board the Modeste — Literature of the Spectator — "The Ad-
ventures of a Columbia River Salmon" — History of the Immij^ration of
1811! — ()])ei>inij of the Southern Route — Traj>ie Fate of the California
Immigrants— Hardships of the Oregon Immij^rants — The Cause— Tardy
Relief — Disappointment of the Colony — The Road-hunters Blamed —
Feuds in Consetpience — Lef^islature for 184G — Meek and Newell Mem-
bers— The Liquor Bill — Divorce Acts, - . . . -
S82
CHAPTER XXXIII. i .. . ,, .,.,,,
The Bcginninff of Orefijon Commerce — The Oregon Colony second only to
that of the Mayflower — 'Ihe Foundations of a New State — Celebrating
the Fourth of July — Visit to the Ship Brutus — An Indignity Resented
, with a Twelve-Pounder — Dr. McLaughlin Interferes — Re-elecaon of
Meek — Large Immigration — Letter from Thomas H. Benton — Affray
between Immigrants and Indians at tho Dalles — The Governor's Dele-
gate to Congress — Manner of his E(juipmcnt — Stranded at San Juan —
Meeting of the Legislature — FalUng of the Thunderbolt, - -391
• • CHAPTER XXXIV.
The Up-Country Indians — Causes of Their Discpiiet — Their Opinion of the
Americans — Their FeclingH toward Dr. Whitman — Acts of Violence —
Influence of th«' Catholic Missionaries — What Provoked the Massacre —
"Jo Lewis the Half-Breed — The Fatal Test — Sickness Among the Emi-
grants— Dr. Whitman's Family — Persons at the Mission and Mill —
Niglit Visit to the Umatilla — The Warning of Stickas and His Family —
The Death Song — Meeting with Brouillet — News of the Massacre — Mr.
Spalding's Night Journeys, » . - . « -400
CHAPTER XXXV.
The Tragedy at "Waiilatpu — Dr. Whitman's Arrival at Home — The Com-
■ mcricement of the Massacre — Horrors of the Attack — Shooting of Mrs.
• Wliitman — Treachery of a Chief — Sufferings of the Children — The Two
Compassionate Indi.ans — Escape of Mr. Osborne and Family — Escape
' and Fate of Mr. Hall — Cruel Treatment of Fugitives — Sufferings of Mr.
Osborne's Family — Fears of Mcbean— 'Kindness of Stickas, - - 410
n:
CONTENTS.
XIX
C 11 A P T K R XXXVI.
PAfllt
Horrors of the Waiilntpii Massacre — Exemption ot the Catholics — Charges
of the Protestants — Natural Suspicions — Furtlicr Particulars of the Mus-
gn(Te — Cnu'ity to the Children — Fate of the Youn}? Women — Miss
Buli-e airl the Priests — Lapwai Mission — Arrival of Mr. Canilielil — An
Indian Trait — Heroism of Mrs. Spalding — Appeal to the Chiefs — Arrival
of the News — Lupwai Plundered — Treachery of Joseph — Arrival of Mr.
Spalding; — Detained as Hostages — Uansomed hy the H. U. Company —
Tlie "Hl(M)d of the Martyrs" — Country Abandoned to the Indians —
Subsequent liuturn of Mr. Spalding to the Ncz Perces, - - - 419
CHAPTER XXXVII.
The Call to Arms — Meiitinj^s and Speeches — Ways and Means of De-
fence— The first llet^iment of Oregon Riflemen — Messenger to the (lov-
crnor of California — ileek Chosen Messenger to the President of the
United States — He Phk-cimIs to the Dalles — 'Hie Army Marches to
Waiilatpu — A Skirmish with the Des Chutes- -Burial of the Victims —
Meek Escorted to the Ulue Mountains, ----- 428
■ ■<l'i*->
yH
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
Meek's Party — Precautions against Indians — Meeting with Bannacks —
White Lies — Fort Hall — Deep Snow.s — Horses Abandoned — 'llio Moun-
tain Spirit Returning — Meeting with Peg-Leg Smith — A Mountain
Revel — Meeting with An Old Leader — Reception at Fort Laramie —
Passing the Siou.x Village — Courtesy of a French Trader — Reflections
on Nearing the Settlements — Resolve to Remain JoeMdek — Reception
at St. Joseph — "Tlie Quickest Trip Yet" — Arrival at St. Louis — Meek X'
as Steamboat Runner — Interview with the Stage Agent at Wheeling —
Astonishing the Natives — The Puzzled Conductor — Arrival at Wash-
ington, --------- 434
CHAPTER XXXIX.
Meek Dines at Coleman's — A Sensation — An Amusing Scene — Recog-
nized by Senator Underwood — Visit to the President — Cordial Recep-
tion by the Family of Polk — Some Doubts of Himself — Rapid Recovery
of Self-Possession — Action of the Friends of Oregon — The Two Oregon
Representatives — Tlie Oregon Bill in the Senate — Benton's Speech — y
Meek's Successful Debut in Society — Curiosity of Ladies — Kit Carson
and the " Contingent Fund " — Meek's Remarkable Popularity — Invited
to Baltimore by the City Council — Er ,rts the President — Visit to
Lowell — Tlic Factory Girls — Some Natural Regrets — Kindness of Mrs.
Polk and Mrs. Walker — Commodore Wilkes — Oregon Lies — Getting
Franked — Champagne Supj ■ .'s, - . . . . 447
i\
I^pfflt
m-
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XL
Paob,
Mr. Tliornton <as Representative of Oregon — The Territorial Bill — How
Obnoxious to the South — The Friends and Enemies of" the Bill — The
Land Bill — The Last Chance — Scene between Butler and Benton —
Speech of Senator Foote — A Tedious Night — The Territorial Bill Pay-
ed—Failure of the Land Bill— What Became of It, - - - 463
CHAPTER XLI.
Meek Appointed U. S. Marshal for Oregon — "Home Sweet Home" — Pay
of the Delegates — The Lion's Share — Meek's Interview with Gov.
Lane — Bujing out a Peddler — The Escort o*' Riflemen — 'Ilie Start from
St. Louis, and the Route — Meeting Price's Army — An Adventure and
a Pleasant Surprise — Leaving the Wagons — Desertion of Soldiers —
Drought^ — The Trick of the Yumas— Demoralization of the Train —
Rumors of Gold — Gen. Lane's Coffee — The Writer's Reflection — The
Party on Foot — Extreme Sufferings — Arrival at William's Ranch —
Speculation in Silks and Jack-Knives — Miners at Los Angelos — Ore-
gonians at San Francisco — Nat Lane and Meek Take the Gold Fever —
Meek's Investment — The Governor and Marshal Quarrel — Pranks
with a Jew — A Salute — Arrival in Oregon City, - - - 459
CHAPTER XLII.
If This Were a Novel — The Dropped Tlireads of Our Story — Gov.
Lane's Proclamation — One Day under Polk — Condition of Oregon —
The Honolulu and Her Captain — The Gold Excitement — Deserted Har-
vest Fields — Sudden Prosperity of Oregon — Gradual Relapse, and
the Cause — Tlie Three Parties — Resignation of Dr. McLaughlin — His
Wish to Become an American Citizen — Complications of His Case — Mr.
Thurston, Delegate to Congress — The Story of the Donation Act —
Death of the Doctor, .---...
482
I !
It >
U I
i
CHAPTER XLIII.
Lane's Course with the Cayuge Indians — Magnanimity of the Spvages —
Rebuke to Their Captors — Their Statements to Meek — Tlie Puzzle of
Indian Ethics — Incidents of the Trial and Execution — State of the
Upper Country for A Term of Years — How Meek Was Received in Ore-
gon— His Incurable Waggishness — Scene in a Court-Room — Contempt
of Court — Judge Nelson and the Carpenters — Two Hundred Lies — An
Excursion by the Oregon Court — Indians Tried for Mui"der — Proceed-
ings of a Jury — Sentence and Execution of the Indians — The Chiefs
Wife — Cost of Proceedings— Lane's Career in Oregon — Gov. Davis,
493
CONTENTS. '-
XXI
CHAPTER XLIV.
Paqi.
Meek as TJ. S. Marshal— The Captain of the Melvin— The British Smug-
gler—Returning a Compliment— " Barly f^nougli for the Officers of the
Court"— Misused Confidence— Indian Disturbances— The Indian War '
of 1855-6— Gen Wool and Gov. Curry— Olficers of the War— Ilowthe
Volunteers Fared— !Meek as a A''olunteer— Feasting and Fun—" Mark-
ing Time"— End of Mock's Public Career— His Stern Loyalty in Con-
trast with Lane's Disloyalty — His Present Life — Treatment of a "Preach-
er "—Hope of the Future, - - - - - -503
CHAPTER XL V.
The Northern Pacific Railroad— WESTERN OREGON— The Walla-
met River and Valley — The Falls of the Wallaniet — The Umpqua Val-
ley— The Rogue River Valley — The Coast Country — The Dairy Region
of the Pacific Coast — Varieties of Soil — Climate and Temperature — Pro-
ductions and Natural Resources — Fruit Growing — Native Grasses —
Shrubbery — Price of Lands — Sheep Raising and Woolen Goods — Trees
and Lumbering— Turpentine, Tar, and Rosin — Fish and Fisheries —
Game — Salt — Coal — Iron — Lead — Copper — Gold and Silver — Grain —
Flax and Hemp— Tobacco— Hops— Honey— EASTERN OREGON—
Impressions of Early Emigrants — Aspectof the Coimtry — Waste Lands —
Sage Deserts — Valleys and Plains — The Blue Mountains — Soil and Pro-
ductions— The Klamaili D.isin — Sprague's River Valley — Goose Lake
V^alley — Surprise Vailcy — Oases in the Desert — The I)es Chutes, John
Dny, Umntilla, Gramie Ronde, and Powder Rivers and Valleys —
Climaie and Resources of Eastern Oregon — Stock-Ranches — Fruit
Orchards — Vineyards — Corn and Sorghum — Flix and Wool — Mineral
Wealth — Ai'ca and Population of Oregon, - - - .-
• t
ui-
513
C H A P T E R X L V I .
WASHINGTON TERRITORY— Area and Population— Tlie Cowelitz
River — The Cascade Range — Mount Olympus — The Cowelitz Prairie —
The Future of Washington — The Strait of San Juan De Fuca — Ad-
miralty Inlet — Hood's Canal — Puget Sound — Its Advantages as a
Great Naval Depot — Material for Ship Building — Ample Room and
kSafe Anchorage — The Lumbering Interests — Large Saw Mills — Im-
mense Forests — Magnificent Trees — Coal Mines — Fisheries — The Coast
Counties — Shoal Water Bay — Cape Hancock — Markets for Agricultural
Products — A Great Maritime City to (Jrow : :p at the Terminus of the
Northern Pacific Railroad — Southern and Eastern Washington — Tlie
Cowelitz, Lewis, and Lake River Valleys — Excellent Fruit, Grain, and
Dairy Regions— The Walla- AValla Valley
554
mrrrr
s
i^
xxu
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER X L y 1 1 .
THE COLUMBIA RIVER— Its Scenery, Extent, and Resources— Point
Adams — Fort Stevens — The Bar — Astoria — Flapping of the Lower Co-
linnbia — Monticello — St. Helen — Junction witli tlie WuHaniet — Sauvies
Island — Vancouver — The Cascade Range — The Heart of the Moun-
tains— Railroad Portage — Jlagnificcnt Scenery — The Cascades — Castio
Rock — Indian Tradition — Stupendous Bluffs — Precijiitous Clitfs —
Grandeur of the Mountains — A Terrible Passage — Wind Mountain —
Hood River — Mt. Hood — Mt. Adams — The Dalles of the Columbia —
Wildness of tlio Scenery — Dalles City — Second Railroad Portage —
Celilo — Immense Warohouses — The Rapids— The Des Clmtes River —
Columbus — Umatilla— Wallula— The AValla-Walla River — Walla-
Walla City — White Bluffs— Colville — Northern. Branches of the Colum-
bia— A Region of Mineral and Agricultural Wealth — Lewiston, Idaho —
The Oregon Steam Navigation Company — Scenery of Snake River —
The American Falls — Tributaries of Snake River — I'ich ^Mineral Dis-
tricts— Fertile Valleys, and Excellent Timber — Changing Aspect of the
Country — Facilities for Emigrants, . - . - .
5G4
i
CHAPTER XL VIII.
MONTANA TERRITORY— F: ,t Discovery of Gold— Extract from the
Report of Gov. Stevens — The Viilleys of the Cour d'Alene and Spokane —
The Cour d'Alene Prairie— The Bitter Root Valley— Hell Gate Pass-
Deer Lodge Prairie— The Little Blackfoot— Flint Creek— The Hell
Gate River — Flathead Lake — Clarke's Fork — Hot Sj)ring Creek —
Pond d' Oreille Lake — Estimates of the Areas of Arable Land — A
Beautiful Coimtry — Agricultural Advantages — The Climate — The Fa-
vorite AVintering Grounds of the Fur Hunters — Mineral and Lumbering
Resources, - - - - - - - -582
CHAPTER X L I X .
General Remarks on the North-west — Varietie?. of Climate and Temperature
— The Mild Climate of the Rocky IMountains in Montana — Captain Mul-
lan's Theory Respecting li, — The Isochimcnal Lino Across the Conti-
nent— Reclamation of Dry Lands by Iriigation — Productiveness of the
Soil— Gigantic Trees and Ferns — Unlailing Harvests — The Foot-IIills
of the Mountains — ^feadows and Uplands — Elements of the Grand and
Wonderful — The Cascade Mountains — -Their iSolitary Wonders — Awful
Chasms — Description of a Mountain Lake — Unequalled Scenery — Com-
mercial Condition and Advantages — Need of Capital and Railroads —
Probable Railroad Routes — The Oregon Central Railroad — Proposed
Branch from the Union Pacific Railroad — The Northern Pacific Ilail-
■ roud, --..--...
689
PREFATORY CHAPTER.
l^
m
mi
Ax Account of the Hudson's Bay Company's Interco'juse with Tnr
Indians ok the Nokth-West Coast; with a Sketch of the Differ-
ent Amk.iican Fuk Companies, \nd theik Dealings with the
Tkibes of the Rocky Mountains. . - .. , ■
5G4
582
589
In the year 1818, Mr. Prevost, acting for the United States, received Astoria
back from the British, who had taken possession, as narrated by Mr. Irving,
four years previous. The restoration took phice in conformity with the treaty
of Glient, by which those places captured during the war were restored to their
original possessors. Mr. Astor stood ready at that time to renew his enterprise
on the Columl)ia River, had Congress been disposed to grant him the necessary
l)rotection which the undertaking required. Faihng to secure this, when the
United States sloop of war Ontario sailed away from Astoria, after having
taken formal possession of that place for our Government, the country was left to
the occupancy, (scarcely a joint-occupancy, since tliere were then no Americans
here,) of the Britisli traders. Ailer the war, and while negotiations were
going on between Great Britain and the United States, the fort at Astoria had
remained in possession of the North- West Company, as their principal establish-
ment west of the mountains. It had been considerably enlarged since it had
come into their possession, and was furnished with artillery enough to have
frightened into friendship a much more warlike people than the subjects of old
king Comcomly ; who, it will be remembered, was not at first very well disposed
towards the " King George men," having learned to look upon the " Boston
men " as his friends in his earliest intercourse with the whites. At this time
Astoria, or Fort George, as the British traders called it, contained sixty-tive
inmates, twenty-three of whom were whites, and the remainder Candian half-
breeds and Sitndwich Islanders. Besides this number of men, there were a few
women, the native wives of tlie men, and their half-breed offspring. The situ-
ation of Astoria, however, was not favorable, being new the sea coast, and not
surrounded with good farming lands such as were required for the furnishing
of provisions to the fort. Tlierefore, when in 1821 it was destroyed by fire, it
was only in part rebuilt, but a lietter and more convenient location for the head-
(juarters of the North-West Company was sought for in the int'in-ior.
About this time a quarrel of long stan<ling between the; Hudson's Bay and
NorUi-West Companies euliniuated in a battle between their men in the Red
ppipr
24
FOIIT VANCOUVER.
!-.Wi|
River country, resulting in a considerable loss of life and property. Tliis affair
drew the attention of the Government at home ; the rights of the rival (;om-
panies were examined into, the mediation of the Ministry secured, and a com-
promise effected, by which the North-West Company, which had succeeded in
disi)ossessing the Pacific Fur Company under Mr. Astor, was merged into the
Hudson's Bay Company, whose name and fame are so familiar to all the early
settlers of Oregon.
At the same time. Parliament passed an act by which the hands of the con-
solidated company were much strengenthed, and the peace and security of all
persons greatly insured; but which became subsequently, in the joint occupancy
of the country, a cause of offence to the American citizens, as w? shall see
hereafter. This act allowed the commissioning of Justices of the Peace ia all
the territories not belonging to the United States, nor already subject to grants.
These justices were to execute and enforce the laws and decisions of the com-ts
of Upjicr Canada ; to take evidence, and commit and send to Canada for trial
the guilty ; and even in some cases, to hold courts themselves for the trial of
criminal offences and misdemeanors not punishable with death, or of civil causes
in which the amount at issue sl'oulc not exceed two hundred pounds.
Tlius in 1824, the North- West Company, whose perfidy had occasioned such
loss and mortification to the enterprising New York merchant, became itself a
thing of the past, and a new rule began in the region west of the llocky Moun-
tains. Tlie old fort at Astoria having been only so far rebuilt as to answer the
needs of the hour, after due consideration, a site for head-ijuarters was selected
about one hundred miles from the sea, near the mouth of the Wallamet Kiver,
though opposite to it. Three considerations went to make up the eligibility of
the point selected. First, it was desirable, even necessary, to settle upon good
agricultural lands, where the Company's provisions could be raised by the Com-
pany's servants. Second, it was important that the spot chosen should be upon
waters navigable for the Company's vessels, or upon tide-water. Lastly, and
not leastly, the Company had an eye to the boundary question between Great
Britain and the United States ; and believing that the end of the controversy
ivould probably be to make the Columbia River the northern limit of the United
States territory, a spot on the northern bank of that river was considered a
jood point for their fort, and possible future city.
llie site chosen by the North-West Company in 1821, for their new fort,
combined all these advantages, and the further one of having been already
commenced and named. Fort Vancouver became at once on the accession of
the Hudson's B.iy Conqiany, the metropolis of the northwest coast, the center
of the fur trade, and the seat of government for that immense territory, over
■which roamed the hunters and trappers in the employ of that powerful corpo-
ration. Tliis post was situated on the edge of a beautiful sloping plain on the
northern bank of the Columbia, about six miles above the upper mouth of the
Wallamet. At this point the Columbia spreads to a great width, and is divided
on the south side into bayous by long snndy islands, covered with oak, ash, and
cotton-wood trees, making the noble river more attractive still by adding the
charm of curiosity concerning its actual breadth to its natural and ordinary
DKFENCES AND IMPR0VEMP:NTS.
26
Tliis iiffair
rival eom-
and a cotn-
icceeded in
;ed into the
.11 the early
of the con-
urity of all
t occupancy
shall see
L^eace in all
•t to grants,
the courts
ida for trial
the trial of
civil causes
3.
sioned such
une itself a
Dcky Moun-
answer the
fas selected
miet River,
igibility of
i upon good
)y the Com-
tild be upon
Lastly, and
iveen Great
controversy
' the United
onsidered a
r new fort,
en already
iccession of
, the center
'ritory, over
erful corpo-
)lain on the
outh of the
il is divided
ik, ash, and
adding the
id ordinary
magnificence. Back of the fort the land rose gently, covered with forests of fir;
and away to the east swelled the tbot-hills of the Cascade range, then the moun-
tains themselves, draped in filmy azure, and over-topped live thousand leet by
the snowy cone of Mt. Hood.
In this lonely situation grew up, with the dispatch which characterized the
acts oi" the Company, a fort in most respects similar to the original one at
Astoria. It was not, however, thought necessary to make so great a disjilay of
artillery as had served to keep in order the subjects of Comcouily. A stockade
enclosed a space about eight hundred feet long by five hundred broad, having
a bastion at one corner, where were mounted three guns, while two eighteen
pounders and two swivels were planted in front of the residence of the (Jov-
ernor and chief factors. These commanded the main entrance to the fort,
besides which there were two other gates in front, and another in the rear.
Military precision was observed in the precautions taken against surprises, as
well as in all the rules of the place. The gates were opened and closed at
certain hours, and were always guarded. No large number of Indians were
permitted within the enclosure at the same time, and every employee at the fort
knew and performed his duty with punctuality.
The buildings within the stockade were the Governor's and chief factors'
residences, stores, offices, work-shops, magazines, warehouses, &c.
Year by year, up to 1835 or '40, improvements continued t go on in and
about the fort, the chief of which was the cultivation of the largo farm and
garden outside the enclosure, and the erection of a hospital building, large barns,
servants' houses, and a boat-house, all outside of the Ibrt ; so that at the period
when the ('olumbia River was a romance and a mystery to the people of the
United States, quite a flourishing and beautiful vi"age adorned its northern
shore, and that too erected and sustained by the enemies of American enter-
prise on soil commonly believed to belong to the United States : fair foes the
author firmly believes them to have been in those days, yet foes nevertheless.
The system on which the Hudson's Bay Company conducted its business was
the result of long experience, and was admirable for its method and its justice also.
When a ycnng man entered its service as a clerk, his wages were small for sev-
eral years, increasing only as his ability and good conduct entitled him to advance-
ment. When his salary had reached one hundred pounds sterling he became
eligible to a chlef-tradership as a partner in the concern, from which position
he was promoted to the rank of a chief factor. No important business was
ever intrusted to an inexperienced person, a policy which almost certainly pre-
vented any serious errors. A regular tariff was established on the Company's
goods, comprising all the articles used in their trade with the Indians ; nor was
the quality of their goods ever allowed to deteriorate. A price was also fixed
upon furs according to their market value, and an Indian knowing this, knew
exactly what he could purchase. No bai-tcring was allowed. Wlun skins
were offered for sale at the fort they wei'e handed to the clerk through a win-
dow like a post-office delivery-window, and their value in the article desired,
returned through the same aperture. All these regulations were of the high-
est importance to the good order, safety, and profit of the Company. The con-
mi
mm
i
26
INTOXICATING LIQUORS.
■•Jl
|::^
fidence of the Indians was pure to be pained by the constancy and good faith
ahvuys observed toward them, and the Company obtained thereby numerous
and poweWul allies in nearly all the tribes.
As soon as it was possible to make the ehann;e, the Indians were denied the
use of intoxicating drinks, the appetite for which had early been introduced
among them by coasting vessels, and even continued by the Pacific Fur Com-
pany at Astoria. It would have been dangerous to have suddenly deprived
them of the coveted stimulus ; therefore the practice must be discontinued by
many wise arts and devices. A public notice was given that the sale of it
would be stopped, and the reasons for this prohibition explained to the Indians.
Still, not to come into direct conflict with their appetites, a little was sold to
the chiel's, now and then, by the clerks, who affected to be running the greatest
risks in violating the order of the company. The strictest secrecy was enjoined
on the lucky chief who, by the friendship of some ander-clcrk, was enabled to
smuggle off a bottle under his blanket. But the canning clerk had generally
managed to get his " good friend " into a state so cleverly between drunk and
sober, before he entrusted him with the precious bottle, that he was sure to
bi'tray himself Leaving the shop with a mien ven more erect than usual,
with a gait affected in its majesty, and his blaincet tightened around him to
conceal his secret treasure, the chuckling chief would start to cross the grounds
within the fort. If he was a new customer, he was once or twice permitted to
play his little game with the obliging clerk whose particular friend he was, and
to escape detection.
But by-and-by, when the officers had seen the ofTence repeated more than
once from their purposely contrived posts of observation, one of them would
skillfully chance to intercept the guilty chief at whose comical endeavors to
appear sober he was inwardly laughing, and charge him with being intoxicated.
Wresting away the tightened blanket, the bottle appeared as evidence that
could not be controverted, of the u;:plicity of the Indian and the unfaithfulness
of the clerk, whose name was instantly demanded, that he might be properly
punished. AVhen the chief again visited the fort, his particular friend met him
with a sorrowful countenance, reproaching him for having been the cause of
his disgrace and loss. This reproach was the surest means of preventing an-
other demand for rum, the Indian being too magnanimous, probably, to wish to
get his friend into trouble ; while the clerk affected to fear the consequences
too much to be induced to take the risk another time. Thus by kind and care-
ful means the traffic in liqi-ors was at length broken up, which otherwise would
have ruined both Indian and trader.
To the company's servants licpior was sold or allowed at certain times : to
those on the sea-board, one half-pint two or three times a year, to be used as
medicine, — not that it was always needed or used for this purpose, but too strict
inquiry into its use was wisely avoided,— and for this the company demanded
pay. To their servants in the interior no Itquor was sold, but they were fur-
nished as a gratuity with one pint on leaving rendezvous, and another on arriv-
ing at winter quarters. By this management, it became impossible fo" them to
AKRIVAL OF "THE BmCADK.
27
1 I
Tood faith
numerous
cnicd the
ntroduccd
Fur Com-
dcprivcd
tinued by
sale of it
I! Indians,
as sold to
le greatest
IS enjoined
enabled to
generally
drunk and
as sure to
ban usual,
nd him to
le grounds
rmitted to
e was, and
more than
lem would
ideavors to
ntoxicated.
dence that
faithfulness
e properly
id met him
le cause of
'enting an-
, to wish to
nsequences
:1 and eare-
wise would
1 times : to
be used as
ut too strict
' demanded
y were fur-
er on arriv-
for them to
dispose of drink to the Indians ; their small allowance being i,1ways immedi-
ately consumed in a meeting or parting carouse.
The aiTival of men from the interior sit Fort Vancouver usually took j)lace
i» the month of June, when the Columbia was high, and a stirring scene; it
was. The chief traders generally c(jntrived their march through the upper
country, their camps, and their rendezvous, so as to meet the Express which
annually came to Vancouver from Canada and the Red River settlements.
They then descended the Columbia together, and arrived in Ibrce at the Fort,
niis annual fleet went by the name of Brigade — a name which suggested a
military spirit in the crews that their appearance failed to vindicate. Yet,
though there was nothing warlike in the scene, there was much that was excit-
ing, picturesque, and even brilliant ; for these couriers de I/oh, or wood-rangers,
and the voyageurs, or boatmen, were the most foppish of mortals when they
came to rendezvous, llien, too, there was an exaltation of sjiirits on their safe
arrival at head-fjuarters, after their year's toil and danger in wildernesses,
among Indians and wild beasts, exposed to famine and accident, that almost
deprived them of what is called " common sense," and compelled them to the
most fantastic excesses.
Their well-understood peculiarities did not make them the less welcome at
Vancouver. When the cry was given — " the Rrigade ! the Brigade ! " — there
was a general rush to the river's bank to witness the spectacle. In advance
came the chief-trader's barge, with the company's flag at the bow, and the
cross of St. George at the stern : the fleet as many abreast as the turnings of
the river allowed. With strong and skillful strokes the boatmen governed their
richly laden boats, keeping them in line, and at the same time singing in chorus
a loud and not unmusical hunting or boating song. Tlie gay ribbons and i'eath-
ers with which the singers were bedecked took nothing from the picturesque-
ness of their appearance. The broad, full river, sparkling in the sunlight,
gemmed with emerald islands, and bordered with a rich growth of flowering
shrubbery ; the smiling plain surrounding the Fort ; the distant mountains,
where glittered the sentinel Mt. Hood, all came gracefully into the picture, and
seemed to furnish a fitting back-ground and middle distance for the bright bit
of coloring given by the moving life in the scene. As with a skillful sweep the
brigade touched the bank, and the traders and men sprang on shore, the first
cheer which had welcomed their appearance was heartily repeated, while a gay
clamor of questions and answers followed.
After the business immediately incident to their arrival had been dispatched,
then took place the regale of pork, flour, and spirits, which was sure to end in
a carouse, during which blackened eyes and broken noses were not at all un-
common ; but though blood was made to flow, life was never put seriously in
peril, and the belligerent parties were the best cif friends when the fracas was
ended.
The business of exchange being completed in three or four weeks — the rich
stores of peltries consigned to their places in the warehouse, and the boats re-
laden with goods for the next year's trade with the Indians in the upper country,
a parting carouse took place, and with another parade of feathers, ribbons, and
m
■r
n
OTHER YEARLY ARRIVALS,
II
Other finery, the brirtiide departed with songs and cheers as it had come, but
witli prohiil)!)' heavier liearta.
It would be a stern morality indeed which could look upon the excesses of
this peculiar class as it would upon the same excesses committed by men in the
enjoyment of all the comforts and pleasures of civilized life. For them, during
most of the year, was only an out-door life of toil, watchfidness, peril, and
isolation. When they arrived a' the rendezvous, for the brief periwl of their
stay they were allowed perfect license because nothing else would content
them. Although at head-cpuirters they were still in the wilderness, thousands
of miles from civilization, with no chance of such recreations as men in the
continual enjoyment of life's sweetest pleasures would naturally seek. For
them there was only one method of seeking and finding temporary oblivion of
the accustomed hardship ; and whatever may be the strict rendering of man's
duty as an immortal being, we cannot help being somewhat lenient at times to
his errors as a mortal.
After the departure of the boats, there was another arriv.al at the Fort, of
trappers from the Snake River county. Previous to 1832, such were the dan-
gers of the fur trade in this region, that only the most experienced traders
were suffered to conduct a party through it ; and even they were frequently
attacked, and sometimes sustained serious losses of men and animals. Subse-
quently, however, the Hudson's Bay Company obtained such an influence over
even these hostile tribes as to make it safe for a party of no more than two of
tlieir men to travel through this much dreaded region.
There was another important arrival at Fort Vancouver, usually in mid-
summer. This was the Company's supply ship from London. In the possible
event of a vessel being lost, one cargo was always kept on store at Vancouver ;
but for which wise regulation much trouble and disaster might have resulted,
especially in the early days of the establishment. Occasionally a vessel foun-
dered at sea or was lost on the bar of the Columbia ; but these losses did not
interrupt the regular transaction of business. The arrival of a ship from Lon-
don was the occasion of great bustle and excitement also. She brought not
only goods for the posts throughout the district of the Columbia, but letters,
papers, private parcels, and all that seemed of so much value to the little
isolated world at the Fort.
A comi)any conducting its business with such mothod and regularity as has
been described, was certain of success. Yet some credit also must attach to
certain individuals in its service, whose faithfulness, zeal, and ability in carry-
ing out its designs, contributed largely to its welfare. Such a man was at the
head of the Hudson's Bay Company's afl^iirs in the large and important dis-
trict west of the Rocky Mountains. Tlie Company never had in its service a
more eflicient man than Gov. John McLaughlin, more commonly called Dr.
McLaughlin.
' To the discipline, at once severe and just, which Dr. McLaughlin maintained
in his district, was due the safety and prosperity of tlie company he s^«i^ed,
and the servants of that company generally ; as well as, at a later period, of
the emigration which followed the hunter and trapper into the wilds of Oregon.
PUNISHMENT OP INDIAN OFFENDKH!*.
29
Careful as were all the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company, tliey could not
always avoid eontlicts with the Indians ; nor was their kindness and justice
always sufficiently appreciated to prevent the outbreak of savage instincts.
Fort Vancouver had been threatened in an early day ; a vessel of two had
been lost in which the Indians were suspected to have been inij)licated ; at
lon<5 intervals a trader was murdered in the interior ; or more frecpiently,
Indian insolence put to the test both the wisdom and courage of the officers to
prevent an outbreak.
When murders and robberies were committed, it was the custom at Fort
Vancouver to send a strong party to demand the offenders from their tribe ;
Such was the well known power and influence of the Company, and such the
wholesome fear of the '* King George men," that this demand was never re-
sisted, and if the murderer could be found he was given up to be hung accord-
ing to " King (Jeorge ' laws. They were almost equally impelled to good con-
duct by the state of dependence on the company into which they had been
brought. Once they had subsisted and clothed themselves from the spoils of
the rivers and Ibrcst ; since they had tasted of the tree of knowledge of good
and evil, they could no more return to skins for raiment, nor to game alone for
food. Blankets and flour, beads, guns, and ammunition had become dear to
their hearts : for all these things they must love and obey the Hudson's Bay
Com])any. Another fine stroke of policy in the Company was to destroy the
chieftain-ships in the various tribes ; thus weakening them by dividing them
and preventing dangerous coalitions of the leading spirits : for in savage as
•well as civilized life, the many are governed by the few.
It may not be uninteresting in this place to give a few anecdotes of the man-
ner in which conflicts with the Indians were prevented, or offences punished
by the Hudson s Bay Company. In the year 1828 the ship William and Ann
was cast away just inside the bar of the Columbia, under circumstances which
seemed to direct suspicion to the Indians in that vicinity. VVliether or not
tlicy had attacked the ship, not a soul was saved from the wreck to tell how
she was lost. On hearing that the ship had gone to pieces, and that the In-
dians had appropriated a portion of her cargo, Dr. McLaughlin sent a message
to the chiefs, demanding restitution of the stolen goods. Nothing was returned
by the messenger excejjt one or two worthless articles. Immediately an armed
force was sent to the scene of the robbery with a fresh demand for the goods,
which the chiefs, in view of their spoils, thought proper to resist by firing upon
the reclaiming party. But they were not unprepared ; and a swivel was dis-
charged to let the savages know what they might expect in the way of fire-
arms. Tlie argument was conclusive, the Indians fleeing into the woods.
While making search for the goods, a portion of which were found, a chief
was observed skulking near, and cocking his gun ; on which motion one of the
men fired, and he fell. This prompt action, the justice of which the Indians
well understood, and tlio intimidating power of the swivel, put an end to the in-
cipient war. Care was tlien taken to impress upon their minds that thev must
not expect to profit by the disasters of vessels, nor be temj)ted to murder white
men for the sake of i)lunder. The Wilhatn and Ann was supposed to have got
''4
m
80
INDIAN STRATEGY.
»
apround, when tho savafjes seeing her Rituation, boarded her and murdered the
crew lor the cargo which they knew her t« contain. Yet us there were no jMwi-
tive proof's, only such measures were taken as would deter them from a similar
attc^mpt in future. Tliat the lesson was not lost, was proven two years later,
when the Imhclln, from London, struck on the bar, her erew desertinj^ her. In
this instance no attempt was made to meddle with tho vessel's cargo ; and as
the crew made their way tc Vancouver, the goods were nearly all saved.
In a former voyage of the William and Ann to the Columbia River, she had
been sent on an exploring expedition to the Gulf of Georgia to discover tho
mouth of Frazier's Kiver, having on l)oard a crew of tbrty men. Whenever
the ship came to anchor, two sentries were kept constantly on deck to guivrd
against any surprise or miscondm^t on the part of the Indians; so adroit, how-
ever, were they in the light-fingered art, that every one of the eight cannon
with which the ship was armed was robbed of its ammunition, as was discovered
on leaving the river ! Such incidents as these served to impress the minds of
the Companj's officers and servants with the necessity of vigilance in their deal-
ings with the savages.
Not all their vigilance could at all times avail to prevent mischief. When
Sir George Simpson, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, was on a visit
to Vancouver in 1829, he was made aware of this truism. The Governor was
on his return to Canada by way of the Red River Settlement, and had reached
the Dalles of the Columbia with his pjirty. In making the portage at this
place, all the party except Dr. Tod gave their guns into the charge of two men
to prevent their being stolen by the Indians, who crowded about, and whose
well-known bad character made great care needful. All went well, no attempt
to seize either guns or other property being made until at the end of the port-
age the boats had been reloaded. As the party were about to re-embark, a
simultaneous rush was made by the Indians who had dogged their steps, to get
possession of the boats. Dr. Tod raised his gun immediately, aiming at the
head chief, who, not liking the prospect of so speedy dissolution, ordered his
followers to desist, and the party were suffered to escape. It was soon after
discovered that every gun belonging to the party in the boat had been wet,
excepting the one carried by Dr. Tod ; and to the fact that tho Doctor did carry
his gun, all the others owed their lives. ;- •:.•,•: i-- ■
The great desire of the Indiai -^ for guns and ammunition led to many strata-
gems which were dangerous to the possessors of the coveted articles. Much
more dangerous would it have been to have allowed them a free supply of these
things ; nor could an Indian purchase from the Company more than a stated
supply, which was to be used, not for the purposes of war, but to keep himself
in game.
Dr. McLaughlin was himself once quite near fivlling into a trap of the Indiana,
so cunningly laid as to puzzle even him. This was a report brought to him
by a deputation of Columbia River Indians, stating the startling fact that the
fort at Nesqually had been attacked, and every inmate slaughtered. To this
horrible story, told with everj- appearance of truth, the Doctor listened with
incredulity mingled with apprehension. The Indians were closely questioned
r '
A IIEUO.
m''
iinil cross-fjiicstinnnd, hut did not conflict in tlioir toptlmony. Tlic mattor ns-
hii'iicil a very piiini'iil iisp(;ct. Not to be ili-ci'lvod, tho I)(«'tor liiul the iinwel-
coino nu'ssi'ii^^tTH conunittcd to custody while lio could brinj^ other witnesses
I'roni their tribe. But ihcy were iircpiireil lor this, iiiid the whole tribe were as
IM)sitivc 09 those who brou<j;ht the tide. Confounded by this cloud of witnesses,
Dr. INh'J^uuidirni h:id almost determined upon sendin}^ an anned tinre to Nes-
qually to inijuire into the matter, and if necessary, punish the Indians, wlien a
detachment of men arrived from that jwjst, and the jilot was exposed I ITio
design of the Indians had been simply to cause a division of the force at Van-
couver, after wliich they believed they miy;ht succeed in capturing and j)lunder-
hvx, tlie fort. Had they truly been successful in this undertakin<|, every other
tra<lin<r-post in llie country would have been destroyed. But so lon<jf as tho
h((ad-(iuarters of the Company remained secure and powerful, the other stations
were comparatively safe.
An incident which has been several times related, occuiTcd at fort Walla-
Walla, and show;! how narrow escapes the interior traders sometimes made.
The hero of this anecdote was Mr. McKinlay, one of the most estimable of the
Hudson's Bay Com[)any's officers, in charge of the fort just named. An Indian
was one day lounging about tho l()rt, and seeing some timbers lying in a heap
that had been scjnarcd for pack saddles, helped himself to one and ctmimenced
cutting it down into a whip handle for his own use. To this j)rocedure Mr.
McKinlay's clerk demurred, first telling the Indian its use, and then ordering
him to resign the piece of timber. The Indian insolently replied that the tim-
ber was his, and he should take it. At this the clerk, with more temper than
prudence, struck the oll'ender, knocking him over, soon alter which the savage ■
led the fort with sullen looks boding vengeance. The next day Mr. McKinlay,
not being informed of what had taken jjlace, was in a room of the fort with his
clerk when a considerable party of Indians began dropj)ing quietly in until
there were fifteen or twenty of them inside the building. The first intimation
of anything wrong McKinlay rec(;ived was when he observed the clerk pointed
out in a particular manner by one of tho party. He instantly comprehended
the purj)ose of his visitors, and with that (piickness of thought which is habitual
to the student of savage nature, he rushed into the store room and returned
with a j)owder keg, flint a!id steel. By this time the unlucky clerk was strug-
gling for his life with his vindictive ibes. Putting down the powder in their
midst and knocking out the head of the keg with a blow, McKinlay stood over
it ready to strike fire with his flint and steel. The savages paused aghast.
They knew the nature of the " perilous stuff," and also understood the trader's
purpose. " Come," said he with a clear, determinefl voice, " yon are twenty
braves against us two : now touch him if you dare, and see who dies first " In
a moment tho fort was cleared, and McKinlay was lefl to inquire the cause of
what had so nearly been a tragedy. It is hardly a subject of doubt whether or
not his clerk got a scolding. Soon afler, such was the powerful influence
exerted by these gentlemen, the chief of the tribe flogged the pilfering Indian
for the offence, and McKinlay became a great brave, a " big heart " for his
courage. ^ntifi-nn)
1
M
a
i! ^1
•il
82
THE AMERICAN FUR COMPANIES.
i
It was indeed necessary to have conra^re, patience, and prudence in dealing
witli tlie IiKliiins. These the Hudson's Hay oHicers (;('neraily jMjssessc'd. I'it-
hups tlie most irascililc of theui all in tlic Columbia District, was their chief,
Dr. MeLau}j;hlin; but such was his (goodness and justice that even the Bava;;«'8
ri'eo^fuizt'd it, and ho was hiias li/t'e, or j^reat chief, in all respects to thetn.
Beinif on out; occasion very much annoyed liy the pertinacity of an Indian wlio
was continually demanding pay for some stones with which the Doctor was
havinir iv vt-ssel ballasted; he seized one of some size, and thrust ing it in the
Indian's month, cried out in a furious manner, "pay, pay! it the stones are
yours, take them and eat them, you rascal ! Pay, j)ay I the di-vil I the devil I "
ujjon which explosion of wrath, the native owner of the soil thought it prudent
to withdraw his innncdiate claims.
There was more, however, in the Doctor's action than mere in(hilgence of
wrath. He understood perfectly that the savage values only what he can eat
and wear, and that as lie could not put the stones to either of these uses, his
demand lor jjay was an impudent one.
Enougli has been said to give the reader an insight into Indian character, to
prepare his mind for events which are to follow, to convey an idea of the influ-
ence of the Hudson's Bay Company, and to show on what it was founded.
The Anu'rican Fur Comi)anie8 will now lu^ sketched, and their modtiof dealing
with the Indians contrasted with that of the British Company. The compari-
son will not be favorable ; but shoidd any inifairness be suspected, a reference
to Mr. Irving's Bonneville, will show tliat the worthy Captain was forced to
witness against his own countrymen in his narrative of his hunting and trading
adventures in the llocky Mountains. --.
The dissolution of the Pacific Fur Company, the refusal of the United States
Government to protect Mr. Astor in a second attempt to carry on a commerce
with the Indians >.''!)!, o? the Rocky Mountains, and the occupation of (hat
country by British traders, had the effect to deter individual enterprise fi-om
again attempting to t\<tublish commerce on the Pacific coast. Tlio people
waited for the Gov<"'ii!M,nt to take some steps toward the encouragement of a
trans-oontincutal trade; the Government beliolding the lion (British) in the
way, waited for the expiration of tlie convention of 1818, in the Micawber-like
hope that something would "turn up" to settle the question of territorial sov-
ereignty. The w^r of 1812 had been begun on the part of Great Britain, to
secure the great western territories to herself for the profits of the fur trade,
almost solely. Failing in this, she had been compelled, by the treaty of Ghent,
to restore to the United States all the places and forts captured during that
war. Yet the forts and trading posts in the west remained practically in the
possession of Great Britain ; for her traders and fur companies still roamed the
country, excluding American trade, and inciting (so the frontiers-men believed),
the Indians to acts of blood and horror.
Congress being importuned by the people of the West, finally, in 1815, passed
an act expelling British traders from American territory east of the Rocky
Mountains. Following the passage of olns act the hunters and trapjiers of the
ddj j!"*f<"
'■^-'tyfiiii U} <nii ti (.a£3T->j
li' i
THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN FUR rOMTANY.
88
old North American Compnny, at the head of which Mr. Astor still remained,
Ik'i^uii to run<{e the country about the head waters of the Mi(iHiH!<ii)pi and the
upper Missouri. Also a ti'w Ann-rican traders liad ventured into the northern
provinces of Mexico, {)rcvious to tiuf overthrow of the Spanish (loverninent;
and after that event, a thriving traiie j^rew up between St. Louis and Santu Fo.
At ienj^th, in 1H2.'{, Mr. W. II. Asliley, of St. Louis, a merchant for a long
tinu! en<;ay;cd in the fur trade on the Missouri and its tributaries, determined to
push a tra<lin<^ pJirty up to or beyond the llocicy Mountains. Following up
flu! Platte Kiver, Mr. Ashley proceeded at the head of a largo party with horses
and merchandise, as far as the northern branch of the IMatte, called the Sweet-
water. This lie explored to its soin-ce, situated in that remarkable depression
in the Rocky Mountains, known as the South Pass — the same which Fremont
ilhrorereit twenty years later, durinj; which twenty years it was annually trav-
eled by tradinj:; parties, and just prior to Fremont's discovery, by missionaries
anil enii-rrants destined to Ort?gon. To Mr. Ashley also belon{];s the credit of
havin<; first explored the head-waters of the Colorado, called the Green River,
afterwards a favorite rendezvous of the American Fur Companies. The coun-
try about the South Pass proved to bo an entirely new hunting ground, and
very rich in furs, as here many rivers take their rise, whose head-waters fur-
nished abundant beaver. Here Mr. Ashley spent the summer, returnin<r to St.
Louis in the fall with a valuable collection of skins.
In 1824, Mr. Ashley repeated the expedition, extending it this time beyond
Green River as far as Great Salt Lake, near which to the south he discovei*ed
another smaller lake, which he named Lake Ashley, after himself. On the
."horesof this lake he built a fort for trading with the Indians, and leaving in it
about one hundred men, returned to St. Louis the second time with a larsre
amount of furs. During the time the fort was occupied by Mr. Ashley's men, a
period of three years, more than one hundred and eighty thousand dollars worth
of furs were collected and sent to St. Louis, In 1827, the fort, and all Mr.
Ashley's interest in the business, was sold to the Rocky Mountain Fur Company,
at the head of which were Jedediah Smith, William Sublette, and David
Jackson, Sublette being the leading spirit in the Company. 'ii-p.trRtr
The custom of these enterprising traders, who had been in the mountains
since 1824, was to divide their force, each taking his command to a good hunt-
ing ground, and returning at stated times to rendezvous, generally appointed
on the head-waters of Green River. Frequently the other fur companies, (for
there were other companies formed on the heels of Ashley's enterprise,) learn-
ing of the place appointed for the yearly rendezvous, brought their goods to
the same resort, when an intense rivalry was exhibited by the several traders
as to which company should soonest dispose of its goods, getting, of course, the
largest amount of furs from the trappers and Indians. So great was the com-
petition in the years between 1826 and 1829, when there were about six hun-
dred American trappers in and about the Rocky Mountains, besides those of
the Hudson's Bay Company, that it was death for a man of one company to
dispose of his furs to a rival association. Even a " free trapper " — that is, one
I not indentured, but hunting upon certain terms of agreement concerning th«
■|
I *' I
m
■ I
34
ATIAC'K (.)N SMITH S PAUTY.
prici' of his furs and the rost of his outfit, only, dared not sell to any other
tonii)any than the one hv. hud aj^reed with.
Jedediah Smith, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, during their first
year in the mountains, took a party of five trappers into Oregon, being the
first American, trader or other, to cross into that country since the breaking
uj) of Mr. Astor's establishment. He trapped on the head-waters of the Snake
lliver until autumn, when he fell in with a party of Hudson's Bay trappers,
and going Avitli them to their post in the Flathead coimtry, wintered there.
Again, in 1826, Smith, Sublette, and Jackson, brought out a large number of
men to trap in the Snake Kiver country, and entered into direct competition
with the Hudson's Bay Company, whom they opposed with hardly a degree
more of ?eal than they competed with riv.al Amei'icrn traders : this one extra
degree being inspired by a " spirit of '76 " toward mything British.
After the liocky Mountain Fur Company had extended its business by the
purchase of Mr. Ashley's interest, the partners determined to push their enter-
prise to the Pacific coast, regardless of the opposition they were likely to en-
counter from the Hudson's Bay traders. Accordingly, in the spring of 1827,
the Company was divided up into three part", t^ he led separately, by different
routes, into the Indian Territory, nearer the ocean.
Smith's route was from the Platte River, southwards to Santa Fe, thence to
the bay of San Francisco, and thence along the coast to the Columbia River.
His party were successful, and had arrived in the autumn of the following year
at the Umjjqua River, about two hundred miles south of the Columbia, in
safety. Here one of those sudden reverses to which the " mountain-man " is
liable at any moment, overtook him. His party at tV^f time consisted of thir-
teen men, with their horses, and a collection of furs valued at twenty thousand
dollars. Arrived at the Umptpia, they encamped for the night on its southern
bank, unaware that tlu' natives in this vicinity (the Shastas) were more fierce
and treacherous* than the indolent tribes of California, for whom, probably,
they had a great contempt. All went well until the following morning, the
Indians hanging about the camp, but apparently friendly. Smith had just
breakfasted, and w:;s ocu-npied in looking for a fonling-jilace for the animals,
being on a raft, and having with him a little Englishman and one Indian.
When they were in the middle of the river the Ip;iian snateheil Smith's gun
and jumped iiH'j the water. At the tame instnut a yell from the eainp, which
was 'n sight, proclaimed that it was attackctd. Quick as thought Smith
snatched the Englishman's gun, and shot, dead the Indian in the river.
To return to the camp was certain death. \h'(!ady several of his men had
fallen ; overpowered by numbers he could not hope that any would liseape, and
ni.tliing was left him but fiight. He succeetled in getting to the o])posite shore
with his rafl Ix'fore h<> could be intercepted, and fled with his companion, on
foot and with only one gun, and no provisions, to the mountains tliat border
the river. With great good fortune they were enabled to pass through the re-
maining two hundred miles of their journey without accident, though not with-
out snfTering, and reach Fort Vancouver in a destitute condition, where they
were kindly cared for.
JOSEPH L. MEEK.
ar>
Of the mpn left in camp, only two escaped. One man named Black de-
fondt (1 himself until he saw an ojjportunity for flight, when he escapeil to the
cover of the woods, and finally to a friendly tribe farther north, near the coast,
who piloted him to Vancouver. The remaining man was one Turner, of a very
powerful fi'ame, who was doing camp duty as cook on this eventful morning.
When the Indians rushed upon him he defended himself with a huge firebrand,
or half-burnt popiar stick, with which he laid al)Out him like Sampson, killing
four red-skins before he saw a chance of escape. Singularly, for one in his ex-
tremity, he did escape, and also arrived at Vancouver that winter.
Dr. McLaughlin received the unlucky trader and his three surviving men
w.'h every mark and expression of kindne"', and entertained them through the
winter. Not only this, but he dispatched a strong, armed party to the scene
of the disaster to punish the Indians and recover the stolen goods ; all of which
was done at his own expense, both as an act of friendship toward his Ameri-
can rivals, and as necessary to the discipune which they everywhere maintained
among the Indians. Should this offence go unpunished, the next attack might
be upon one of his own parties ,"'>ing annually down into California. Sir
George Simpson, the Governo. of the Hudson's Bay Company, chanced to be
spending the winter at Vancouver. He offered to send Suuth to Londim the
following summer, in the Company's vessel, where he might dispose of his fiu-s
to advantage ; but Smith declined this offer, and finally sold his furs to Dr.
AlcLaughlin, and returned in the sjOTng to the Rocky Mountains.
On Sublette's return from St. Louis, in the summer of 182!), v.ith men and
merchandise for the year's trade, 1m) became uneasy on accoimt of Smith's i)ro-
tracted absence. According to a previous phin, he took a large party into the
Snake River country to hunt. Among the rc^cruits fr.iui St. Louis was Joseph
L. Meek, the subject of ihe narrative following this ehaptei . Sublette not
meeting with Smith's party on its way from the Columbia, as he still hoped, at
length detailed a party to look for him on the head-wat<^rs of the Snake. Mei'k
was one of the men sent to look for the missing partner, whom he discovered
at length in PieiTc's Hole, a deep valley in the mountains, from which issues
the Snake River in many living streams. Smith returntid with the men to
camp, where the tale of his disasters was received after the manner of moun-
tain-men, simply declaring with a momentarily sobered countenance, that their
comrade has not been "in luck;" with which briif and ecjuivocal exjjression
of sympathy the s»dije(;t is dismissed. To dwell on the dangers incident to
their calling woidd be to half disarm themselves of their necessary courage ;
and it is only when they are gathered about the fire in their winter camp, that
they indulge in tiiles of wild advenUire and " hair-breadth 'scapes," or make
sorrowiid retorence to a comr.'ulc lost.
Influenced by the hospitable treatment which Smith had received at the
hands of the Hudson's Bay ('ompany, the partners now determined to with-
draw from competition with them in the Snake country, and to trap ".pon the
waters of the Colorado, in the neighborhood of their fort. But " luck," the
moimtain-man's Providence, seemed to have deserted Smith. In crossing the^
Colorado River with a considerable collection of skins, i;e was again attacked
36
WYETH S EXPEDITIOiNS.
>'l i
by Indians, and only escaped by losing all his property. lie then went to St.
I^ouis for a supply of merchandise, and fitted out a trading party for Santa Fe ;
but on his way to that place was kiLed in an encounter with the savages.
Turner, the man who so valiantly wielded the firebrand on the Umpqua
River, several years later met with a similar adventure on the Rogue River, in
Southern Oregon, and was the means of saving the lives of his party by his
courage, strength, and alertness. He finally, when trapping had become un-
profitable, retired upon a f rm in the Wallamet Valley, as did many other
mountain-men who survived the dangers of their perilous trade. c,
After tlie death of Smith, the Rocky Mountain Fur Company continued its
operations under th3 command of Bridger, Fitzpatrick, and ]V'i:tou Sublette,
brother of William. In the spring of 1830 they rece'r,'''- 1 ibi^ ^o hundred
recruits, and with litde variation kept up their number ot r st ... .u tr hundred
men for a period of eight or ten years longer, o^ 'intil the beaver were hunted
out of every nook and corner of the Rocky Mountains.
Previous to 1835, there were in and about the Rocky Mountiiins, beside the
" American " and " Rocky Mountain " companies, the St. Louis Company, and
eight or ten " lone traders." Among these latter were William Sublette,
Robert Campbell, J. O. Pattie, Mr. Pilcher , Col. Charles Bent, St. Vrain,
W'illiam Bent, Mr. Gant, and Mr. Blackwell. All these companies and
traders more or less frequently penetrated into the countries of New Mexico,
Old Mexico, Sonora, and California ; returning sometimes through the moun-
tain regions of the latter State, by the Humboldt River to the head-waters of
the Colorado. Seldom, in all their journeys, did they intrude on that portion
of the Indian Territory lying within three hundred miles of Fort Vancouver,
or which forms the area of the present State of Oregon.
Up to 1832, the fur trade in the West had been chiefly conducted h v-.cr-
chants from the frontier cities, especially by those of St. Louia. i ' !•
"North American " was the only exception. But in the spring of ti « a .
Captain Bonneville, an United States officer on furlough, led a company ol >
hundred men, with a train of wagons, horses ai. niules, with merchandise, into
the trapping grounds of the Rocky Mountains. His wagons ^»rere the first that
had ever crossed the summit of these mountains, though W'illiam Sublette had,
two or three years previous, brought wagons as far as the valley of the Wind
River, on the east side of the range. Captain Bonneville remained nearly
three years in tlie hunting and trapping grounds, taking parties of men into
the Colorado, Humboldt, and Sfvcrameuto valleys ; - it ^e realized no profits
from his expedition, being opposed and competed ., ' oy both Ii' ish and
American traders of larger experience.
*' But Captain Bonneville's venture was a fortunate one compared i '^ h t
• of Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth of Massachusetts, who also crossed the continviit in
^' 1832, with the view of establishing a trade on the Columbia River Mr. Wyeth
brought with him a small party of men, aii inc • -m ienced in frontier or moun-
tain life, and destined for a talmon fisJi r) on tlv; ' oi'imbia. He had reached
Independence, Missouri, the last statio'i before plu;,gu,g into the wilderness, and
found himself somewhat at a loss how to proceed, uuul, at this juncture, he was
DECLINE OF THE iMERICAN FUR TRADE.
37
overtaken by tba party of William Sublette, from St. Louis to the Rocky Moun-
tains, with whom he travelled in company to the rentlezvous at Pierre's Hole.
When Wyeth arrived at the Columbia River, after tarrying until he had
acquired some mountain experiences, he found that his vessel, which was loaded
with mere 'landise for the Columbia River trade, had not arrive.]. He remained
at Vancouver through the winter, the guest of the Hudson's Bay Company,
and either having learned or surmised that his vessel was wrecked, returned to
the United States in the following year. Not discouraged, howe ver, he made
another venture in 1834, despatching the ship May Dacre, Captain Lambert,
for the Columbia River, with another cargo of Indian goods, traveling himself
overland with a party of two hundred men, and a considerable quantity of mer-
chandise which he expected to sell to the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. In
til's expectation he wus defeated by William Sublette, who had also brought out
s large assortment of goods for the Indian trade, and had sold out, supplying
the market, before Mr. AVyeth arrived.
Wyeth then built a post, named Fort Hall, on Snake River, at the junction
of the Portneuf, where he stored his goods, and having detached most of his
men in trapping parties, proceeded to the Columbia River to meet the May
Dacre. He reached the Columbia about the same iime with his vessel, and
proceeded at once to erect a salmon fishery. To fc ward this purpose he built
a post, called Fort William, on the lower end of Wapp.itoo (now known as
Sauvle's) Island, near where the Lower Wallamet falls into the Columbia. But
for various reasons he found the business on which he had entered unprofitable.
He had much trouble with the Indians, his men were killed or drowned, so that
by the time ho had half a cargo of fish, he was ready to abandon the effort to
establish a commerce with the Oregon Indians, and was satisfied that no enter-
prise less stupendous and powerful than that of the Hudson's Bay Company
could be long sustainijd in that country.
Much complnint was subsequently made by Americans, chiefly Missionaries,
of the conduct of that company in not allowing Mr. Wyeth to purchase beayor
skins of tlid Indians, hut Mr. Wyeth himself made no such complaint. Person-
ally, he was treated with u iv \rying kindnes j, courtesy, and hospitality. As a
trader, they would not pen.iit him to undersell them. In truth, they no do«^
wished him away ; because conij^etition ^.ould soon ruin the business of eithijijf '
and they liked not to havf, the Indim;:. taught to expect more than their furs
were worih, nor to ha. \; the Indians' confidence in themselves destroyed or
tampered with.
Tlie Hudson's Bay Company were hardly so unfi-iendly to him as the Ameri-
can companies ; since to the former he was enabled to sell his goods and fort on
the Snake River, before he returned to the United States, which he did in 1835.
The sale of Fort Hall to the Hudson's Bay Company was a finishing blow at
the American fur trade in the Rocky Mountains, which ailer two or three years
of constantly declining profits, was entirely abandoned.
Something of the dangers incident to the life of the hunter and trapper may
be gathered from the following statements, made by various parties who have
been engaged in it. In 1808, a Mis.^ouri Company engaged in fur hunting on
1 -will
.III
\/%
ili
^8
CAUSES OF THE INDIANS HOSTILITY.
the three forks of the river IMissouri, were attacked by Blackfeet, losing twenty-
seven men, and being compelled to abandon the country. In 1823, Mr. Ashley
was attacked on the same river by the Arickaras, and had twenty-six men
killed. About the same time the Missouri company lost seven men, and fifteen
thousand dollars' worth of merchandise on the Yellowstone River. A few years
previous, Major Henry lost, on the Missouri River, six men and fifty horses.
In the sketch tjiven of Smith's trading adventures is shown how uncertain were
life anil property at a later period. Ot the two hundred men whom Wyeth
•"^ i-to the Indian country, only about forty were alive at the end of three
Tliere was, indeed, a constant state of warfare betwcien the Indians
ai.. ,.e whites, wherever the American Companies hunted, in which great
numbers of both lost their lives. Add to this cause of decimation the perils
from wild beasts, famine, cold, and all manner of accidents, and the trapper's
chance of life was about one in three.
Of the causes which have produced the enmity of the Indians, there are
about as many. It was found to be the case almost universally, that on the
first visit of the whites the natives were friendly, after their natural fears had
been allayed. But by degrees their cupidity was excited to possess themselves
of the much coveted dress, arms, and goods of their visitors. As they had
little or nothing to offer in exchange, which the white man considered an equiva-
lent, they took Jie only method remaining of gratifying their desire of possess-
ion, and stole the coveted articles which they could not purchase. When they
learned that the white men punished theft, they murdered to preveni the pun-
ishment. Often, also, they had wrongs of their own to avenge. White men
did not always regard their property-rights. They were guilty of infamous
conduct toward Indian women. What one party of whites told them was true,
another plainly contradicted, leaving the lie between them. They were over-
bearing toward the Indians on their own soil, exciting to irrepressible hostility
the natural jealousy of the inferior toward the superior race, where both are
fi-ee, which characterizes all people. Jn short, the Indians were not without
their grievances ; and from barbarous ignorance and wrong on one side, and
intelligent tArrong-doing on the other, together with the misunderstandings likely
to arise between two entirely distinct races, gi-ew constantly a thousand abuses,
•which resulted in a deadly enmity between the two.
For several reasons this evil existed to a greater degree among the American
traders and trappers than among the British. Tlie American trapper was not,
like the Iludson'f? Bay employees, bred to the i usiness. Oftener than any
other way he was some wild youth who, after an ct capade in the society of his
native place, sought safety from reproach or punishment in the wildernc^ Or
he was some disappointed man who, with feelings embittered towards his fellows,
preferred the seclusion of the forest and mountain. Many were of a class dis-
reputable everywhere, who gladly embraced a life not subject to social laws.
A few were brave, independent, and hardy spirits, who delighte<l in the hard-
ships and wild adventures their calling made necessary. All these men, the
best with the worst, were subject to no will but their own ; and all experience
goes to prove that a life of perfect liberty is apt to degenerate into a life of
•1- '.>''■'
HEAVY LOSS OP LIFE.
39
license. Even their own lives, and those of their companions, when it depended
uj)on their own prudence, were but liglitly considered. The constant presence
of danger made them reckless. It is easy to conceive how, under these cir-
cumstances, the natives and the foreigners grew to hate each other, in the
Indian country ; especially after tha Americans came to the determination to
" shoot an Indian at sight," unless he belonged to some tribe with whom they
had intermarried, after the manner of the traj)pers.
On the other hand, the employees of the Hudson's Bay Company were many
of them half-breeds or full-blooded Indians of the Iroquois nation, towards
whom nearly all the tribes were kindly disposed. Even the Frenchmen who
trapped for this company were well liked by the Indians on account of their
suavity of manner, and the ease with which they adapted themselves to savage
life. Besides most of them had native wives and half-breed children, and were
regarded as relatives. They were trained to the life of a trapper, were subject
to the will of the Company, and were generally just and equitable in their deal-
ings with the Indians, according to that company's will, and the dictates of
prudence. Here was a wide difference.
Notwithstanding this, there were many dangers to be encoimtered. The
hostility of some of the tribes could never be overcome; nor has it ever abated.
Such were the Ci'ows, the Blackfeet, the Cheyennes, the Apaches, the Caman-
ches. Only a superior force could compel tlie friendly offices of these tribes
for any white man, and then their treachery wr 5 ae dangerous as their open
hostility.
It happened, therefore, that although the Hudson's Bay Company lost com-
paratively few men by the hands of the Indians, they sometimes found them
inipl.acable foes in common with the American trappers ; and frequently one
party was very glad of the others' assistance. Altogether, as has before been
stated, the loss of life was immense in proportion to the number employed.
Very few of those who had spent years in the Rocky Mountains ever returned
to the United States. With their Indian wives and half-breed children, they
scattered themselves throughout Oregon, until when, a number of years after
the abandonment of the fur trade. Congress donated large tracts of land to
actual settlers, they laid claim, each to his selected portion, and became active
citizens of their adopted state.
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EAULY LIFE OF JOaEPH L. MEEK.
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CHAPTER I.
I ;. ; .
Ill
As has been stated in the Introduction, Joseph L. Meek
was a native of Washington Co., Va. Born in the early-
part of the present century, and brought up on a planta-
tion where the utmost liberty was accorded to the "young
raassa;" preferring out-door sports with the youthful
bondsmen of his father, to study with the bald-headed
schoolmaster who furnished him the alphabet on a paddle ;
possessing an exhaustless fund of waggish humor, united
to a spirit of adventure and remarkable personal strength,
he unwittingly furnished in himself the very material of
which the heroes of the wilderness were made. Virginia,
"the mother of Presidents," has furnished many such men,
who, in the early days of the now populous Western States,
became the hardy frontiers-men, or the fearless Indian
fighters who were the bone and sinew of the land.
When young Joe was about eighteen years of age, he
wearied of the monotony of plantation life, and jumping
into the wagon of a neighbor who was going to Louis,
ville, Ky., started out in life for himself He "reckoned
they did not grieve for him at home;" at which conclu-
sion others besides Joe naturally arrive on hearing v.f his
heedless disposition, and utter contempt for the ordinary
and useful employments to which other men ap})ly them-
selves. This truly Virginian and chivalric contempt for
" honest labor " has continued to distinguish him through-
out his eventful career, even while performing the most
arduous duties of the life hd had chosen.
^ r)
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4!
HE ENLISTS IN A FUIt COMPANY,
Joe probably believed that should his lather grieve for
him, his step-mother would be able to console him; this
step-mother, though a pious and good Avoman, not being
one of the lad's favorites, as might easily be conjectured.
It was such thoughts as these that kept up his resolution
to seek the far west. In the autumn of 1828 he arrived
in St. Louis, and the following sprihg he fell in with Mr.
Wm. Sublette, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, who
was making his annual visit to that frontier town to pur-
chase merchandise for the Indian country, and pick up re-
cruits for the fur-hunting service. To this experienced
leader he offered himself. :'{* ^;,,lw.„:.'^v^t,■,.
■iiiu:
V^>':"
^^'■ f^v
■ ■', i>Kv f/i'i-y ^^\in'(:,.
THE ENLISTMENT.
" How old are you ?" asked Sublette.
'^- " A little past eighteen."
" And you want to go to the Rocky Mountains ?"
"Yes."
ON THE MARCH — CAMP LIFE.
43
"You don't know what you are talking about, boy.
You'll be killed before you get half way there." '
"If I do, I reckon I can die!" said Joe, with a flash of
his full dark eyes, and throwing back his shoulders to show
their breadth.
" Come," exclaimed the trader, eyeing the youthful can-
didate with admiration, and perhaps a touch of pity also ;
"that is the game spirit. I think you'll do, after all.
Only be prudent, and keep your wits about you."
"Where else should they be?" laughed Joe, as he
maiched off, feeling an inch or two taller than before.
Then commenced the business of preparing for the jour-
ney— making acquaintance with the other recruits — enjoy-
ing the novelty of owning an outfit, being initiated into
the mysteries of camp duty by the few old hunters who
were to accompany the expedition, and learning some-
thing of their swagger and disregard of civilized observ-
ances.
On the 17th of March, 1829, the company, numbering
about sixty men, left St. Louis, and proceeded on horses
and mules, with pack-horses for the goods, up through the
state of Missouri. Camp-life commenced at the start ; and
this being the season of the year when the weather is
most disagreeable, its romance rapidly melted away with
the snow and sleet which varied the sharp spring wind
and the frequent cold rains. The recruits went through
all the little mishaps incident to the business and to their
inexperience, such as involuntary somersaults over the
heads of their mules, bloody noses, bruises, dusty faces,
bad colds, accidents in fording streams, — yet withal no
very serious hurts or hindrances. Rough weather and se-
vere exercise gave them wolfish appetites, which sweet-
ened the coarse camp-fare and amiteur cooking.
Getting up at four o'clock of a March morning to kmdle
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m
■M
44
A WARNING VOICE.
:»'»iaj
M;
li-i
fires and attend to the animals was not the most delect-
able duty that our labor-despising young recruit could
have chosen ; but if he repented of the venture he had
made nobody was the wiser. Sleeping of stormy nights
in corn-cribs or under sheds, could not be by any stretch
of imagination converted into a highly romantic or heroic
mode of lodging one's self The squalid manner of living
of the few inhabitants of Missouri at this period, gave a
forlorn aspect lo the country which is lacking in the wil-
derness itself; — a thought which sometimes occurred to
Joe like a hope for the future. Mountain-fare he began
to think must be better than the boiled corn and pork of
the Missourians. Antelope and buffalo meat were more
suitable viands for a hunter than coon and opossum.
Thus those very duties which seemed undignified, and
those hardships without danger or glory, which marked
the beginning of his career made him ambitious o^ a more
free and hazardous life on the plains and. in the moun-
tains.
Among the recruits was a young man not far from Joe's
own age, named, Robert Newell, from Ohio. One morn-
ing, when the company was encamped near Boonville, the
two young men were out looking for their mules, when
they encountered an elderly woman returning from the
milking yard with a gourd of milk. Newell made some
remark on the style of vessel she carried, when she broke
out in a sharp voice, —
"Young chap, I'll bet you run oiF from your mother!
Who'll mend them holes in the elbow of your coat?
You're a purty looking chap to go to the mountains,
among them Injuns ! They'll Icill you. You'd better go
back home!"
Considering that these h'ontier people knew what In-
dian fighting was, this was no doubt sound and disinter-
m
^
LAST VEariOR OF CIVILIZATION.
^m
osted advice, notwithstanding it was given somewhat
.sharply. And so the young men felt it to be ; but it waa ,
not in the nature of either of them to turn buck from a
course because there was danger in it. The thought of r
home, and somebody to mend their coats, was, however, i
for the time strongly presented. But the company moved ,
on, with undiminished numbers, stared at by the few in- :;
habitants, and having their own little adventures, until ,
they came to Independence, the last station before com- {,
mitting themselves to the wilderness. ,
At this place, which contained a dwelling-hcuse, cotton- .
gin, and grocery, the camp tarried for a few days to adjust j
the packs, and prepare for a final start across the plains, i
On Sunday the settlers got together for a shooting-match, .
iu which some of the travelers joined, without winning ,'
many laurels. Coon-skins, deer-skins, and bees-wax .
changed hands freely among the settlers, whose skill with .;
the rifle was greater than their hoard of silver dollars.
This was the last vestige of civilization which the com-
pany could hope to behold for years ; and rude as it was,
yet won from them many a parting look as they finally
took their way across the plains toward the Arkansas
River.
Often on this part of the march a dead silence fell upon
the party, which remained unbroken for mil< - c " the way.
Many no doubt were regretting homes by them abandoned,
or wondering dreamily how many and whom of that com-
pany would ever see the Missouri country again. Many
indeed went the way the woman of the gourd had prophe-
sied; but not the hero of this story, nor his comrade
Newell. ^ .. Ktfisji?u ■<i^tiSi-
The route of Captain Sublette led across the country
from near the mouth of the Kansas River to the River Ar-
kansas ; thence to the South Fork of the Platte ; thence
:/'
it
4»
CAMP SrnntlSKD by IXDIAXfl.
/'■
on to tlio North Fork of that Rivor, to Avhoro Ft. Lin-junifl
now .stauda; tlieiico up the Mmth Fork to the Sweetwater,
and theiiee across in a still northwesterly direction to the
head of Wind River.
The manner of camp-travel is now so well known
through the writings of Irving, and still more from the
great numbers which have crossed the plains since Astoria
and Bonneville were written, that it would be superfluous
here to enter upon a particular description of a train on
that journey. A strict half-military discipline had to be
maintained, regular duties assigned to each person, pre-
cautions taken against the loss of animals c 'er by stray-
ing or Indian stampeding, etc. Some ol men Averc
appointed as cam[)-keepers, who had all tncse things to
.look after, besides standing guard. A few were se-
lected as hunters, and these were free to come and go, as
their calling required. None but the most experienced
were chosen for hunters, on a march; therefore our re-
cruit could not aspire to that dignity yet.
The first adventure the company met with worthy of
m,ention after leaving Independence, was in crossing the
country between the Arkansas and the Platte. Here the
camp Wi'.3 surprised one morning by a band of Indians a
thousand strong, that came sweoy)ing down upon them in
such -warlike style that even Captniii Sublette was fiin to
believe it his last battle. Upon the open prairie there is
no such thing as flight, nor any cover under which to con-
ceal a party even for a few moments. It is always ^^hi
or die, if the assailants are in the humor for war.
Happily on this occasion the band proved to be more
peaceably disposed than their appearance indicated, being
the warriors of several tribes — the Sioux, Arapahoes, Kio-
was, and Cheyennes, who had been holding a council to
consider probably what mischief they could do to some
A riUM FUONT — A PAHLKY.
4t
utluM- tribos. The spectacle they presented as they (^aine
lit full speed on horseback, armed, painted, brandisliing
tlieir weaj)ons, and yellinfj^ in lirst rate Indian style, was
one which might well strike with a palsy the stoutest
heart and arm. What were a band of sixty men against
a thousand armed warrioi-s in full lighting trim, with
s[)ears, shields, bows, battle-axes, and not a few guns?
But it is the rule of the mountain-men to pjht — and
that there is a chance for life until the breath is out of the
l)()(ly ; therefore Captain Sublette had his little force
drawn up in line of battle. On came the savages, whoop-
ing and swinging their weapons above their heads. Sub-
lette turned to his men. "When you hear my shot, then
lire." Still they came on, until within about fifty paces
of the line of wail ing men. Sul^lette turned his head, and
saw his command with their guns all up *to their faces
leady to fire, then raised his own gun. Just at this mo-
ment the principal chief sprang off his horse and laid his
weapon on the ground, making signs of peace. Then fol-
lowed a talk, and after the giving of a considerable pres-
ent, Sublette was allowed to depart. This he did with all
dispatch, the company putting as much distance as possi-
ble between themselves and their visitors before making
their next camp. Considering the warlike character of
these tribes and their superior numbers, it was as narrow
an escape on the part of the company as it was an excep-
tional freak of generosity on the part of the savages to
allow it. But Indians have all a great respect for a man
who shows no fear ; and it was most probably the warlike
movement of Captain Sublette and his party which in-
'^pired a willingness on the part of the chief to accept a
present, when he had the power to have taken the whole
train. Besides, according to Indian logic, the present
cost him nothing, and it might cost him many warriors ta
'if
m
. /|
' 1
i, i 1
\;4
m»v'
48
THE SUMMER RENDEZVOUS.
capture the train. Ilud there been the least wavering on
Sublette's part, or fear in the countenances of his men, the
end of the affair would have been different. This -adven-
ture was a grand initiation of the raw recruits, giving
them both an insight into savage modes of attack, and an
opportunity to t-ist their own nerve.
The company proceeded without accident, and arrived,
about the first of -Tuly, at the rendezvous, which was ap-
pointed for this year on the Popo Agie, one of the streams
which form the head-waters of Bighorn River.
Now, indeed, young Joe hdd an opportunity of seeing
something of the life upon which he had entered. As
customary, when the traveling partner arrived at rendez-
vous with the year's merchandise, there was a meeting of
ail the partners, if they were within rea^'h of the appcmted
place. On this occasion Smith was ivbsent on his tour
through California and Western Oregon, as h.is been
related in the prefator}'" chapter. Jackson, the resident
partner, and commander for the p/'^vious year, was not
yet in ; and Sublette had just arrived witlv the goods
from St. Louis.
All the different hunting and trapping parties and In-
dian allies were gathered together, so that the camp con-
tained several hundred men, with their riding and pack-
horses. Nor were Indian women and children wanting to
give variety and an appearance of domesticity to the
scene.
The Summer reridezvous was always chosen in some
valley where there was grass for the aiiimals, and game
for the camp. The plnins along the Popo Agie, besides
furnishing these necessary bounties, were bordered by pic-
turesque mountain ranges, whose naked bluffs of red sand-
stone glowed in the morning and evening sun with a mel-
lowness of coloring charming to the eye of the Virginia
1
<9f
Si!
si
N
i
L
i
I .ia
recruit
wild f
wliite (
ing ani
the i?i
motley
murmn
ited an
cou
^1
Bit
All ve
full an
genera
very c(
year's
huiidre
The
greatly
regulai
trap fo
quired
the pa
his con
load th
do any
vice he
horses,
outfit, ]
dollars
Ther
nishcd
and wl
* Loadt
from the (
AN ENCHANTING PICTURE.
49
recruit. The waving grass of the plain, variegated with
wild flowers; the clear summer heavens flecked with
white clouds that threw soft shr,dows in passing ; the graz-
ing animals scattered about the meadows; the lodges of
the Booshivay.%^ around which clustered the camp in
motley garb and brilliant coloring ; gay laughter, and the
murmur of soft Indian voices, all made up a most spir-
ited and enchanting picture, in which the eye of an artist
couM not fail to delight.
B'lt as the goods were opened the scene grew livelier.
All T/ere eager to purchase, most of the trappers to the
full amount of their years wages; and some of them,
generally free trappers, went in debt to the company to a
very considerable amount, after spending the value of a
year's labor, privation, and danger, at the rate of several
hundred dollars in a single flay.
The difFerence between .4 hired and a free trapper wns
greatly in favor of the latter. Th<> liired trapper was
regularly indentured, and bound aot only to hunt and
trap for his employers, but also to peiform any duty re-
quired of him in camp. The Booshway, or the trad< , or
the partisan, (leader of the detachment,) harl him under
his command, to make him take charge of, ioad and un-
load the horses, stand guard, cook, hunt fuel, or, in short,
do any and every duty. In return for this toil^' ^e ser-
vice he received an outfit of traps, arms and fc amnition,
horses, rnd whatever his service required. Besides his
outfit, he received no more than three or four hundred
dollars a year as wages.
There was also a class of free trappers, who were fur-
nished with their outfit by the company they trapped for,
and who were obliged to agree to a certain stipulated
p!rtKrT73
* Leaders or cliiufs — corrupted from the Freiwih of Bourgc is, and borrowed
from the Canadians.
ii ^
50
THK FREE TUAPPER S INDIAN WIFE,
{jrice for their furs before the hunt commenced. Blut the
g-enuine free trapper regarded himself as greatly the su-
perior of either of the foregoing classes. He had his own
horses and accoutrements, arms and ammunition. He
took what route he thought ft, hunted and trapped when
and 'where he chose ; traded with the Indians ; sold his
furs to whoever offered highest for them ; dressed fiaunt-
ingly, and generally had an Indian wife and half-breed
children. They prided themselves on their hardihood
and courage ; even on their recklessness and profligacy.
Each claimed to own the best horse; to have had the
wildest adventures; to have made the most nairow es-
capes ; to have killed the greatest number of bears and In-
dians ; to be the greatest favorite with the Indian belles,
the greatest consumer of alcohol, and to have the most
money to spend, ?. e. the largest credit on the books of
the company. If his hearers did not believe hi:n, he was
ready to run a race wnth him, to beat him at "old sledge,"
or to fight, if fighting was preferred, — ready to prove
what he affirmed in any manner the company pleased.
If the free trapper had a wife, she moved wnth the
camp to ^vhich lie attached himself, being furnished with
a fine horse, caparisoned in the gayest and costliest man-
ner. Her dress was of the finest goods the market af-
forded, and was suitably ornamented with beads, ribbons,
fringes, and feathers. Her rark, too, as a free trapper's
wife, gave her consequence not only in her own eyes, but
in those of her tribe, and protected her from that slavish
drudgery to which as the ife of an Indian hunter or war-
rior she would have beon subject. The cnly authority
which the free trapper nc-knowledged was that of his In-
dian spouse, who generally ruled in the lo.lge, i:owever
her lord blustered outside.
One of the free trapper's special delights was to take in
WILD CAROUSALS.
I 'H-iT
51
^and the raw recruits, to gorge their wonder with his
boastful tales, and to amuse himself with shocking his pu-
pil's civilized notions of propriety. Joe Meek did not
escape this sort of "breaking in;" and if it should appear
in the course of this narrative that he proved an apt
scholar, it will but illustrate a truth — that high spirits and
fine talents tempt the tempter to win them over to his
ranks. But Joe was not won over all at once. He be-
held the beautiful spectacle of the encampment as it has
been described, giving life and enchantment to the sum-
mer landscape, -changed into a scene of the wildest ca-
rousal, going from bad to .worse, until from harmless
noise and bluster it came to fighting and loss of life. At
this first rendezvous he was shocked to behold the revolt-
ing exhibition of four trappers playing at 9 game of cards
with the dead body of a comrade for a card-table ! Such
was the indifference to all the natural and ordinary emo-
tions which these veterans of the wilderness cultivated in
themselves, and inculcated in those who came under their
influence. Scenes like this at first had the effect to bring
feelings of home-sickness, while it inspired by contrast a
sort of penitential and religious feeling also. According
to Meek's account of those early days in the mountains,
he said some secret prayers, and shed some secret tears. .
But this did not last long. The force of example, and es-
pecially the force of ridicule, is very potent with the
young ; nor are we quite free fi'om their influence later in
life.
If the gambling, swearing, drinking, and fighting at
first astonished and alarmed the unsophisticated Joe, he
found at the same time something to admire, and that he
felt to 1)0 congenial with his own disposition, in the fearless-
ness, the contempt of sordid gain, the hearty merriment
and frolicsome abandon of the better portion of the men
f t n
i'TI
hi
iri
; *
M
52
ROUTINE OF CAMP LIFE.
about him. A spirit of emulation arose in him to become
as brave as the bravest, as hardy as the hardiest," and as
gay as the gayest, even while his feelings still revoHed at
many things which his heroic models were openly guilty of
If at any time in the future course of this narrative, Joe is
discovered to have taken leave of his early scruples, the
reader will considerately remember the associations by
which he was surrounded for years, until the memory of
the pious teachings of his childhood was nearly, if not
quite, obliterated. To "nothing extenuatp:, nor set down
aught in malice," should be the frame of mind in which
both the writer and reader of Joe's adventures should
strive to maintain himself
Before our hero is ushered upon the active scenes of a
trapper's life, it may be well to present to j;he reader a
sort of cjuide to camp life^ in order that he may be able
to understand some of its technicalities, as they may be
casually mentioned hereafter.
When the large camp is on the march, it has a leader,
generally one of the Booshways, who rides in advance, or
at the head of the column. Near him is a led mule, chosen
for its qualities of speed and trustworthiness, on which
are packed two small trunks that balance each other like
panniers, and which contain the company's books, papers,
and articles of agreement with the men. Then follow
the pack animals, each one bearing three packs — one on
each side, and one on top — so nicely adjusted as not to slip
in traveling. These are in charge of certain men called
camp-keepers, who have each three of these to look after.
The trappers and hunters have two horses, or mules, one
to ride, and one to pack their traps. If there are women
and children in the train, all are mounted. Where the
country is safe, the caravan moves in single file, often
stretching out for half or three-quarters of a mile. At
CAMPING AT NIGHT.
53
the end of the <'olumii rides the second man, or "little
I3ooshway," as the men call him ; usually a hired officer,
whose business it is to look after the order and condition
of the Avhole camp. „ ,
On arriving at a suitable spot to make the night camp,
the leader stops, dismounts in the particular space which
is to be devoted to himself in its midst. The others, as
they come up, form a circle ; the " second man" bringing
up the rear, to be sure all are there. He then proceeds
to appoint every man a place in the circle, and to exam-
ine the . horses' backs to see if any are sore. The horses
are then turned out, under a guard, to graze ; but before
darkness comes on are placed inside the ring, and pick-
eted by a stake driven in the earth, or with two feet
so tied together as to prevent easy or free locomotion.
The men are divided into mosses : so many trappers and
so many c keepers to a mess. The business of eating
is not a very elaborate one, where the sole article of diet
is meat, either dried or roasted. By a certain hour all is
c|uiet in camp, and only the guard is awake. At times
during the night, the leader, or the officer of the guard,
gives the guard a challenge — 'all's well ! " which is an-
swered by " all's well ! "
In the morning at daylight, or sometimes not till sun-
rise, according to the safe or dangerous locality, the sec-
ond man comes forth from his lodge and cries in French,
" Zeye, leve, leve, leve, level'''' fifteen or twenty times, which
is the command to rise. In about five minutes more he
cries out again, in French, "Zec/te Zer/o, leche lego!'''' or
turn out, turn out ; at which command all come out from
the lodges, and the horses are turned loose to feed ; but
not before a horseman has galloped all round the camp at
some distance, and discovered every thing to be safe in
the neighborhood. Again, when the horses have been
%
^i
DIVIDING THE vJAME.
sufficiently fed, under the eye of a guard, they are driven
up, the pucks rc})laced, the train mounted, and once more
it moves off, in the order before mentioned.
In a settled camp, as in winter, there are other regula-
tions. The leader and the second man occupy the same
relative positions ; but other minor regulations are ob-
served. The duty of a trapper, for instance, in the trap-
ping season, is only to trap, and take care of hi3 own
horses. When he comes in at night, he takes his beaver
to the clerk, and the nuuiber is counted offi and placed to
his credit. Not he, but the camp-keepers, tiil <^ off the
skins and dry them. In the winter camp there are six
persons to a lodge : four trappers and two camp-ke(;pers ;
therefore the trappers are well waited upon, theii' only
duty being to hunt, in turns, for the camp. When a piece
of game is brought in, — a deer, an antelope, or buffalo
meat, — it is thrown down on the heap which accumulates
in front of the Booshway's lodge ; and the second, man
stands by and cuts it up, or has it cut up for him. The
first man who chances to come along, is ordered to stand
still and turn his bapk to the pile of game, while the
"little Booshway " lays hold of a piece that has been cut
oif, and asks in a loud voice — "who will have this?" —
and the man answering for him, says, " the Booshway,"
or perhaps "number six," or "number twenty" — mean-
ing certain messes ; and the number is called to come and
take their meat. In this blind w^ay the meat is portioned
off; strongly reminding one of the game of "button,
button, who has the button?" In this chance game of
the meat, the Booshway fares no better than his men ;
unless, in rare instances, the little Booshway should indi-
cate to the man who calls off, that a certain choice piece
is designed for the mess of the leader or the second man.
A gun is never allowed to be fired in camp under any
HMOKED MOCCASINS.
m
provocation, short of an Indian raid ; but the guns are
IVoiiuently inspected, to see if tlicy are in order ; and
woe to the careless camp-keeper who neglects this or any
other duty. When the second man conies around, and
linds a piece of work imperfectly done, whether it be
cleaning the firearms, making a hair rope, or a skin lodge,
or washing a horse's back, he does not threaten the
offender with personal chastisement, but calls up another
man and asks him, " Can t/oii do this properly ? ''
"Yes, sir." • ' ■■■ i-; ■,;,.;;,, . i^ ,,,
" I will give you ten dollars to do it ; " and the ten
dollars is set down to the account of the inefficient camp-
keeper. But he does not risk forfeiting another ten dol-
lars in the same manner.
In the spring, when the camp breaks up, the skins
which have been used all winter for lodges are cut up to
make moccasins : because from their having been thor-
oughly smoked by the lodge fires they do not shrink in
wetting, like raw skins. This is an important quality in a
moccasin, as a trapper is almost constantly in the water,
and should not his moccasins be smoked they will close
upon his feet, in drying, like a vice. Sometimes after
trapping all day, the tired and soaked trapper lies down
in his blankets at night, still wet. But by-and-by he is
wakened by the pinching of his moccasins, and is obliged
to rise and seek the water again to relieve himself of the
pain. For the same reason, when spring comes, the trap-
per is forced to cut off the lower half of his buckskin
breeches, and piece them down with blanket leggins,
which he wears all through the trapping season.
Such were a few of the peculiarities, and the hardships
also, of a life in the Rocky Mountains. If the camp dis-
cipline, and the dangers and hardships to which a raw re-
cruit was exposed, failed to harden him to the service in
! ■» tl,
f , '
"n»^
56
A "TRIFLING FELLOW."
one year, he was rejected as a "trifling follow," and sent
back to the settlement the next year. It was riot prob-
able, therefore, that the mountain-man often was detected
in complaining at his lot. If he was miserable, he was
laughed at ; and he soon learned to laugh at his own mis-
eries, as well as to laugh back at his comrades.
)i:a'
\ >',
n : 1 . ;-i.
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uaij*
THE CAMP IN MOTION.
57
''I.'!': ,
■M.'.i
.1
CHAPTEU II
^'
The business of the rendezvous occupied about e
month. In this period the men, Indian allies, and other
Indian parties who usually visited the camp at this time,
were all supplied with goods. The remaining merchandise
was adjusted for the convenience of the different traders
who should be sent out through all the country traversed
by the company. Sublette then decided upon their routes,
dividing up his forces into camps, which took each its ap-
pointed course, detaching as it proceeded small parties of
trappers to all the hunting grounds in the neighborhood.
These smaller camps were ordered to meet at certain times
and places, to report progress, collect and cache their furs,
and "count noses." If certain parties failed to arrive,
others were sent out in search for them.
This year, in the absence of Smith and Jackson, a con-
siderable party was dispatched, under Milton Sublette,
brother of the Captain, and two other free trappers and
traders, Frapp and Jervais, to traverse the country down
along the Bighorn River. Captain Sublette took a large
party, among whom was Joe Meek, across the mount.-iins
to trap on the Snake River, in opposition to the Hudson's
Bay Company. The Rocky Mountain Fur Company had
hitherto avoided this country, except when Smith had
once crossed to the head-waters of the Snake with a small
party of five trappers. But Smith and Sublette had
determined to oppose themselves to the British traders
! ■(
^ll
wfrnjT'r -r
58
THK LOrtT FOUND BEAUTIFUL 8UENERY.
who occupied ho large an extent of territory presumed to
be American ; and it had been agreed between them to
meet this year on Snake River on Sublette's rctui'u I'roni
St. Louis, and Smith's from his California tour. What
befel Smith's party bclbre reaching the (,\jliimbi;i, hius
already boon related; also his reception by the 1' i Ison'a
Bay Company, and his (le[)arture from Vancouver.
Sublette led his comi)any up the valley of the Wind
River, acro.ss the mountains, and on to the very head-waters
of the Lewis or Snake River. Here he fell in with Jack-
son, in the valley of Lewis Lake, called Jackson's JIule,
and remained on the borders of this lake for some time,
waiting for Smith, whose non-appearance began to ^'^eate
a good deal of uneasiness. At length runners wc e dis-
patched in all directions looking for the lost Boo.shway.
The detachment to which Meek was assigned had the
pleasure and honor of discovering the hiding place of the
missing partner, which was in Pierre's Hole, a mountain
Viilley about thirty miles long and of half that width,
which subsequently was much frequented by the camps of
the various fur companies. He was found trapping and
exploring, in company with four men only, one of whom
was Black, who with him escaped from the Umpqua In-
dians, as before related. •--. •' ,.■'••
Notwithstanding the excitement and elation attendant
upon the success of his party. Meek found time to admire
the magnificent scenery of the valley, which is bounded
on two sides by broken and pictui-esque ranges, and over-
looked by that magnificent group of mountains, called
the Three Tetons, towering to a height of fourteen thou-
sand feet. This emerald cup set in its rim of amethystine
mountains, was so pleasant a sight to the mountain-men
that camp was moved to it without delay, where it re-
mained until some time in September, recruiting its ani-
mals and preparing for the fall hunt.
UKJoiciNOrt IN i;ami'.
■')
'■lit'''
59
IFcro agiiiii tlie tnip{)c:-) in(lul<,fod in Ihoir noisy sports
and ivjoicin;^', ostensibly on account of tlie return of th(;
long-Jibsent liooshway. There was little said of the in(ni
who had perished in that nnforiunatc expcMlition. "Poor
fellow! out of luck;" was the usual burial rite which
I lie memory of a dead comrade received. So much and
no more. They could indidge in noisy rejoicings over a
lost comrade restored ; but the dead one was not men-
tioned. Nor was this ajjparcntly heartless and heedless
manner so irrational or unfeeling as it seemed. Every-
body understood one thing in the mountains — that ho must
keep his life by his own courage and valor, or at the least
by his own prudence. Unseen dangers always lay in
wait for him. The arrow or tomahawk of the Indian, tin;
blow of the grizzly bear, the mis-step on the dizzy or slip-
pery height, the rush of boiling and foaming floods, freez-
ing cold, famine — these were the most common forms of
peril, yet did not embrace even then all the forms in which
Death sought" his victims in the wilderness. The avoid-
ance of painful reminders, such as the loss of a party of
men, was a natural instinct, involving also a principle of
self defence — since to have weak hearts would be the
surest road to defeat in the next dangerous encounter.
To keep their hearts "big," they must be gay, they must
not remember the miserable fate of many of their one-time
comrades. Think of that, stern moralist and martinet in
propriety ! Your fur collar hangs in the gas-lighted hall.
In your luxurious dressing gown and slippers, by the
warmth of a glowing grate, you muse upon the depravity
of your fellow men. But imagine yourself, if you can, in
the heart of an interminable wilderness. Let the snow
be three or four feet deep, game scarce, Indians on your
track : escaped from these dangers, once more beside a
camp fire, with a roast of buffalo meat on a stick before it,
JiUuf fU;') 9rfj 7ol giffhiiqrmj l:»n,fi afi'.n/
ill
>3
\ I
60
THE trapper's PHILOSOPHY.
V * ■
and Bevcral of your companions similarly escaped, uid
destined for the same chances to-morrow, around you. Do
you fancy you should give much time to lamenting the less
Ipcky fellov/s who were left behind frozen, starved, or
scalped? Not you. You would be fortifying yourself
against to-morrow, when the same terrors might lay in
wait for you. Jedediah Smith was a pious man ; one of
the few that ever resided in the Rocky j\fountains, and led
a band of reckltss trappers ; but he did not turn back
to his camp whon he SdW it attacked on the Umpqua,
nor stop to lament his murdered men. The law of self
preservation is strong in the wilderness. "Keep up your
heart to-day, for to-moriow yr-u may die," is the raotto
of the tra})per.
In the conference which took place between Smith and
Sublette, the former insisted that on recount of the kind
services of the Hudson's Bjiy Company toward himself
and the three other survivors of his ptaty, they should
withdraw their trappers and traders from th^ western side
of the niountains for the present, so as not to have them
come in conflict with those of that company. To this
proposition Sublette reluctantly consented, and orders
were issued for moving once more to the east, before go-
ing into winter camp, which was appointed for the Wind
River Valley.
In the meantime Joe Meek was sent out with a party to
take his first hunt fo': beaver as a hired trapper. The
detaclrnient to which he belonged trav'^eled down Pierre's
fork, the 4ream which watered the valley of Pierre's Hole,
to its junction w^lh Lewis' and Henry's forks where they
unite to form the great Snake River. While trapping in
this locality the party became aware of the vicinity of a
roving band of Biackfeet, and in consequence, redoubled
their usual precautions while on the march.
"the devil's own."
The Blackfeet were the tribe most dreaded in the Rocky
Mountains, and went by the name of "Bugs Boys," which
rendered into good English, meant "the devil's own."
Tliey are now so well Icnown that to mention their charac-
teristics seems like repeating a " twice-told tale ; " but as
they will appear so often in this narrative, Irving'? account
of them as he had it from Bonneville wdien he was fresh
from the mountains, will, after all, not be out of place.
■' These savages," he says, " are the most dangerous ban-
ditti of the mountains, and the inveterate foe of the trap
per. They are Ishmaelites of the first order, always with
\vcapon in hand, ready for action. The young braves of
the tribe, who are destitute of property, go to war for
booty ; to gain horses, and acquire the means of setting
up a lodge, supporting a family, and entitling themselves
to a seat in the public councils. The veteran warriors
light merely for the love of the thing, and the conse-
quence which success gives them among their joeople.
They are capital horseir.en, and are generally well mounted
on short, stout horses, similar to the prairie ponies, to be
met with in St. Louis. When on a war party, however,
they go on foot, to enable them to skulk through the
country with greater secrecy; to keep in thickets and ra-
vines, and use more adroit subterfuges and stratagems.
Their mode of warfare is entirely by ambush, surprise,
and sudden assaults in the night time. If they succeed
in causing a panic, they dash forward with headlong fury ;
if the enemy is on the alert, and shows no signs of fear,
they become wary and deliberate in their movements.
Some of them are armed in the primitive style, with
bows and arrows ; the greater part have American fusees,
made after the fashion of those of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany. These they procure at the trading post of the
American Fur Company, on Maria's River, where they
«-,5-
J'
62
CIIAHACTEKISTICS OF THE BLACKFEET.
traftiC tlieir peltries for arms, ammunition, clothing, and
trinl'Cts. They are extremely fond of spirituous liquors
and tobacco, for which nuisances they are ready to exchange,
not merely their guns and horses, but even their wives
and daughters. As they are a treacherous race, and have
cherished a lurking hostility to the whites, ever since one
of their tribe was killed by Mr. Lewis, the associate of
General Clarke, in his exploring expedition across the
Rocky jMountains. the American Fur Company is obliged
constantly to keep at their post a garrison of sixty or sev-
enty men."
" Under the general name of Blackfeet are compre-
hended several tribes, such as the Surcies, the Peagans,
the Blood Indians, and the Gros Ventres of the Prairies,
who roam about the Southern branches of the Yellow-
stone and Missouri Rivers, together with some other tribes
further north. The bands infesting the Wind River
Mountains, and the country adjacent, at the time of which
we are treating, were Gros Ventres of the Praines, which
are not to be confounded with the Gros Ventres of the
Missouri^ who keep aboul: the lower part of that river, and
are friendly to the white men."
" This hostile band ke(ips about the head-waters of the
Missouri, and numbers about nine hundred fighting men.
Once in the course of two or three j'Cars they abandon
their usual abodes and make a visit to the Arapahoes of
the Arkansas. Their roi7.te lies either through the Crow
country, and the Black Hills, cr through the lands of the
Nez Perces, Flatheads, Bannacks, and Shoshonies. As
they enjoy their fiivorite state of hostilitj'' with all these
tribes, their expeditions are prone to be conducted m the
most lawless and predatory style ; nor do they hesitate to
extend their maraudings to any party of white men they
meet with, following thinr trail, hovering about their
CHAUACTKRISTICS OP THE BLACKFEET.
63
camps, waylaying and dogging the caravans of the free
traders, and murdering the solitary trapper. The conse-
quences are frequent and desperate fights between them
and the mountaineers, in the wild defiles and fastnesses of
the Itocky Mountains." Such were the Blackfeet at the
period of which we are writing ; nor has their character
changed at this day, as many of the Montana miners know
to their cost.
'■•i'-'-.' ■ hM
n
f; h
'■ i',
64
HOW THE BE4.VER IS TAKEN.
CHAPTER III.
1830. Sublette's camp commenced moving back to the
east side of the Rocky Mountains in October. Its conrse
was up Henry's fork of the Snake River, througli the North
Pass to Missouri Lake, in which rises the Madison fork of
tne Missouri River. The beaver were very plenty on
Henry's fork, and our young trapper had gresit success in
making u]) his packs ; having learned the art of setting
his traps very readily. The manner in which the trapper
takes his game is as follows : —
He has an ordinary steel trap weighing five pounds, at-
tached to a chain five feet long, with a swivel and ring at
the end, which plays round what is called the floaty a dry
stick of wood, about six feet long. The trapper wades
out into the stream, which is shallow, and cuts with his
knife a bed for the trap, five or six inches under water.
He then takes the float out the wliole length of the chain
in the direction of the centre of the stream, and drives it
into the mud, so fast that the beaver cannot draw it out ;
at the same time tying the other end by a thong to the
bank. A small stick or twig, dipped in musk or castor,
serves for bait, and is placed so as to hang directly above
the trap, which is now set. The trapper then throws wa-
ter plentifully over the adjacent bank to conceal any foot
prints or scent by which the beaver would be alarmed,
and going to some distance wades out of the stream.
In setting a trap, several things are to be observed with
care : — first, that the trap is firmly fixed, and the proper
WONDERFUL INSTIN'CT OF THE BEAVER.
65
distance from the bank — for if the beaver can get on
shore with the trap, he will cut off his foot to escape : sec-
ondly, that the float is of dry wood, for should it not be,
the little animal will cut it off at a stroke, and SAvimming
with the trap to the middle of the dam, be drowned by
its weight. In the latter case, Avhen the hunter visits his
traps in the morning, he is under the necessity of plung-
ing into the water and swimming out to dive for the mis-
sing trap, and his game. Should the morning be frosty
and chill, as it very frequently is in the mountains, diving
for traps is not the pleasantcst exercise. In placing the
bait, care must be taken to fix it just where the beaver in
reaching it will spring the trap. If the bait-stick be
placed high, the hind foot of the beaver will be caught :
if low, his fore foot.
The manner in which the beavers make their dam,
and construct their lodge, has lor.g been reckoned among
the "wonders of the animal creation; and while some
observers have claimed for the little creature more sa-
gacity than it really possesses, its instinct is still suffi-
ciently wonderful It is certainly true that it knows how
to keep the water of a stream to a certain level, by means
of an obstruction ; and that it cuts down trees for the pur-
pose of backing up the water by a dam. It is not true,
however, that it can always fell a tree in the direction re-
quired for this purpose. The timber about a beaver dam
is felled in all directions ; but as trees that grow near the
water, generally lean towards it, the tree, when cut, takes
the proper direction by gravitation alone. The beaver
then proceeds to cut up the fallen timber into lengths of
al)out three feet, and to convey them to the ?,[;ot where
the dam is to be situated, securing them in their places
by means of mud and stones. The work is commenced
when the water is low, and carried on as it rises, until it
P^
: iiil
! m
m
'fl
M
i .}.
6'6
BKAVEK DAMS FOUMATION OF MEADOWS.
has attained the desired height. And not only is it made
of the requisite height and strengtli, but its shape is suited
exactly to the nature of tlie stream in which it is built.
If the water is sluggish the dam is straight; if rapid and
turbulent, the barrier is constructed of a convex form, the
better to resist the action of the water.
BEAVEK-1>AM.
When the beavers have once commenced a dam, its ex
tent and thickness are continually augmented, not only by
their labors, but by accidental accumulations ; thus accom-
modating itself to the size of the growing community.
At length, after a lapse of many yoar.s, the water being-
spread over a considerable tract, and filled up by yearly
accumulations of drift-wood and earth, seeds take root
in the new made ground, and the old beaver-dams be-
come green meadows, or thickets of cotton-wood and
willow.
The food on which the beaver subsists, is the bark of
the young trees in its neighborhood; and when laying up
a winter store, the whole community join in the labor of
selecting, cutting up, and carrying the strips to their store-
'.:i/.
IJKAVER LODGES.
67
houses under water. They do not, as some writers have
affirmed, when cutting wood for a dam strip off the bark
and store it in their hjdges for Avintcr consumption ; but
only carry under water the stick with the bark on.
" Tlic bcivver has two incisors and ciffht niolnrs in oach jaw ; and empty hol-
lows where the canine teeth iniizht be. 'Ilie upper pair of cuttiiij^' teeth extend
far into tlic jaw, with a curve of rather more than a semicircle; and the lower
pair of incisors form rather less than a semicircle. Sometimes, one of these
teeth gets broken and then the opposite tooth continues growing until it i'orms a
nearly complete circle. TJie chewing nmsclc of the beaver is strengthened by
tendons in such a way as to give it great power. But more is needed to enable
the beaver to eat wood. 'ITie insalivation of the dry iood is provided for ijy the
extraordinary size of the salivary glands.
" Now, every part of these instniments is of vital importance to the l)eavers.
The loss of an incisor involves the formation of an obstructive circular tooth ;
deficiency of saliva renders the food indigeslibL> ; and when old age comes and
the enamel is worn down faster than it is renewed, the beaver is not longer able
to cut branches for its support. Old, feeble and poor, unable to borrow, and
ashamed to beg, he steals cuttings, and subjects himself to the penalty assigned
to theft. Aged beavers are often found dead with gashes in their bodies, show-
ing that they have been killed by their mates. In the fall of 18G4, a very aged
beaver was caught in one of the dams of the E.»conawba River, and this was the
reflection of a great authority on the occasion, one Ah-she-goes, an Ojibwa trap-
per: • Had he escapi'd the trap he would have been killed before the winter was
over, by other beavers, for stealing cuttings.'
When the beavers are about two or three years old, their teeth are in their
best condition for cutting. On the Upper Missouri, they cut the cotton tree and
the willow bush ; aroiind Hudson's Bay and Lake Superior, in addition to the
willow tliey cut the poplar and maple, hendock, spruce and pine. The cutting
is round and round, and deepest uiK)n the side on which they wish the tree to
fall. Indians and trappers liavc seen beavers cutting trees. The felling of a
tree is a family affair. No more than a single pair with two or three young
ones are engaged at a time. The adults take the cutting in turns, one gnawing
and the other watching; and occasionally a yoimgster trying his incisors.
The beaviT whilst gnawing sits on his plantigrade hind legs, which keep liini
conveniently upright. When the tree begins to crackle the beavers work cau-
tiously, and when it crashes down they i)limge into the pond, fearful lest the
noise should attract an enemy to the spot. After the tree-fall, comes the lopping
of the bi-anches. A single tree may be winter provision f()r a family. Branches
five or six inches thick have to be cut into proper lengths for transport, and are
then taken home."
The lodge of a beaver is generally about six feet in di-
6»
BACHELOR B HALL— TRAPPING IN WINTER.
araeter, on the inside, and about Imlf as high. They are
rounded or dome-shaped on the outside, with very thick
walls, and communicate with the land by subterranean
])assages, below the depth at which tiie water freezes in
winter. Each lodge is made to accommodate several in-
mates, who have their beds ranged round the walls, nnich
as the Indian does in his tent. They are very cleanly,
too, and after eating, carry out the sticks that have been
stripped, and either use them in repairing their dam, or
throw them into the stream below.
During the summer months the beavers abandon their
lodges, and disport themselves about the streams, some-
times going on long journeys ; or if any remain at home,
they are the mothers of young families. About the Ijist
of August the connnunity returns to its home, and begins
preparations for the domestic cares of the long winter
months.
An exception to this rule is that of certain individuals,
who have no families, make no dam, and never live in
lodges, but burrow in subterranean tunnels. They are al-
ways found to be males, whom the French trappers call
"les parasseux," or idlers; and the American trappers,
"bachelors." Several of them are sometimes found in
one abode, which the trappers facetiously denominate
"bachelor's hall." Being taken with l.-ss difficulty than
the more domestic beaver, the trapper is always glad to
come upon their habitations.
The trapping season is usually in the spring and au-
tumn. But should the hunters find it necessary to con-
tinue their work in winter, they capture the beaver by
sounding on the ice until an aperture is discovered, when
the ice is cut away and the opening closed up. lleturning
to the bank, they search for the subterranean passage, trac-
\ng its connection with the lodge ; and by patient watching
"UP TO TRAP — FIRST BATTLE WITH BLACKFEET.
69
succeed in catching the beaver on some of its journeys
between the water and the land. This, however, is not
often resorted to when the hunt in the fall has been suc-
cessful ; or when not urged by famine to take the beaver
for food. ' • i > ^j
"Occasionally it happens," says Captain Bonneville,
" that several members of a beaver family are trapped in
succession. The survivors then become extremely shy,
and can scarcely be "brought to medicine," to use the
trappers' phrase for "taking the bait." In such case, the
trapper gives up the use of the bait, and conceals his traps
in the usual paths and crossing places of the household.
The be?ver being now completely "up to trap," ap-
[)roaches them cautiously, and springs them, ingeniously,
^\'ith a stick. At other times, he turns the traps bottom
1 1[) wards, by the same means, and occasionally even drags
tliem to the barrier, and conceals them in the mud. The
trapper now gives up the contest of ingenuity, and shoul-
dering his traps, marches off, admitting that he is not yet
"up to beaver." r.. .,
Before the camp moved from the forks of the Snake
River, the haunting Blackfeot made their appearance
openly. It was here that Meek had his first battle with
that nation, with whom he subsequently had many a sav-
age contest. They attacked the camp early in the morn-
ing, just as the call to turn out had sounded. But they
had miscalculated their opportunity : the design having evi-
dently been to stampede the horses and mules, at the hour
and moment of their being turned loose to graze. They
had been too hasty by a few minutes, so that when they
charged on the camp pell-mell, firing a hundred guns at
once, to frighten both horses and men, it happened that
only a few of the animals had been turned out, and they
had not yet got far off. The noise of the charge only
turned them back to camp.
I'l.'ji
H
PA
m
iM
70
ON GUARD — THE TRAPPERS RISK.
Tn an instant's time, Fitzpatrick was mounted, and com-
manding the men to follow, ho galloped at headlong
speed round and round the eamp, to drive b.ick such of the
horses as were straying, or had been frightened from their
pickets. In this race, two horses were shot under him;
but he escaped and the camp-horses were saved. The
battle now was to punish the thieves. They took their
position, as usual with Indian fighters, in a narrow ravine;
from whence the camp was forced to dislodge them, at a
great disadvantage This they did do, at last, after six
hours of hard fighting, in which a few men were wounded,
but none killed. The thieves skulked off, through the
canyon, when they found themselves defeated, and were
seen no more until the camp came to the woods which
cover the western slope of the Rocky Mountains.
But as the camp moved eastward, or rather in a north-
easterly direction, through the pine forests between Pier-
re's Hole and the head-watei's of the Missouri, it was con-
tinually harrassed by Blackfeet, and required a strong
guard at night, when these marauders delighted to make
an attack. The weather by this time was very cold in
the mountains, and chilled the marrow of our young Vir-
ginian. The travel was hard, too, and the recruits pretty
well Avorn out.
One cold night, Meek was put on guard on the further
side of the camp, with a veteran named Reese. But
neither the veteran nor the youngster could resist the ap-
proaches of " tired Nature's sweet restorer," and went to
sleep at their post of duty. When, during the night,
Sublette came out of his tent and gave the challenge —
" All's well ! " there was no reply. To quote Meek's own
language, " Sublette came round the horse-pen swearing
and snorting. He was powerful mad. Before he got to
where Reese was, he made so much noise that he waked
CLIMMING TWO TREES,
Til
him; and Reose, in a loud wliisper, called to him, ' Down,
Billy! IndiaiKs!' Sniblotto got down on hia belly mighty
(jiiick. ' Whar '? whar V ' he asked.
" ' They were right there when you hollered so,' said
Reese.
" 'Where is Meek?' whispered Sublette.
" ' He is trying to shoot one,' answered Reese, still in a
whisper.
" Reese then crawled over to whar I war, and told me
what had been said, and informed me what to do. In a
few niinutts I crept cautiously over to Reese's post, when
Sublette asked me how many Indians had been thar, and
I told him I couldn't make out their number. In the
morning a pair of Indian moccasins war ibund whar Reese
saio the Indians^ which I had taken care to leave there ;
and thus confirmed, our story got us the credit of vigi-
lance, instead of our receiving our just dues for neglect
of duty."
It was sometime during the fall hunt in the Pine Woods,
on the west side of the Rocky Mountains, that Meek had
one of his earliest adventures with a bear. Two com-
rades, Craig and Nelson, and himself, while out trapping,
left their horses, and traveled up a creek on foot, in search
of beaver. They had not proceeded any great distance,
before they came suddenly face to face with a red bear ;
so suddenly, indeed, that the men made a spring for the
nearest trees. Craig and Meek ascended a largo pine,
which chanced to be nearest, and having many limbs, was
easy to climb. Nelson happened to take to one of two
small trees that grew close together ; and the bear, fixing
upon him for a victim, undertook to climb after him.
With his back against one of these small trees, and his
feet against the other, his bearship succeeded in reaching
a point not far below Nelson's perch, when the trees
■
I
1
' 1
f '
'l
,\ ■
1'
1
i
■I
1 ■(
72
A DlHAIM'OlNTED BEAU.
oponod with liis weight, and down ho wont, Avitli a shock
tliat liiiriy sliook tlic ^n-oiind. Ihit this bud luck only
soeiiied to iiiruriatu the beast, iiiid iij) lio wont n^^niii, with
tlie samo result, each time ahnost reaching his oiioniy.
With tlio second tumble he was not the least discouraged;
but started up the third time, only to be diished once
more to the ground when he had attained a certain height.
At the third I'all, however, he became thoroughly dis-
irusted with his want of success, and turned and ran at
lull speed into the woods. t <: •/
" Then," says Meek, " Craig began to sing, and T began
to laugh ; but Nelson took to swearing. ' 0 yes, you can
laugh and sing now,' says Nelson; 'but you war quiet
enough when the bear was around.' ' Why, Nelson,' I
answered, 'you wouldn't have us noisy before that dis-
tinguished guest of yours ? ' But Nelson damned the
wild beast ; and Craig and 1 laughed, and said he didn't
seem wild a bit. That's the way we hector each other in
the mountains. If a man gets into trouble he is only
laughed at : 'let him keep out ; let him have better luck,'
is what we say." '.?-•
The country traversed by Sublette in the fall of 1829,
was unknown at that period, even to the fur companies,
they having kept either farther to the south or to the
north. Few, if any, white men had passed through it
since Lewis and Clarke discovered the headwaters of the
Missouri and the Snake Rivers, which flow from the oppo-
site sides of the same mountain peaks. Even the toils
and hardships of passing over mountains at this season of
the year, did not deprive the tra})per of the enjoyment
of the magnificent scenery the region aflbrded. Splendid
views, however, could not long beguile men who had
little to eat, and who had yet a long journey to accom-
AI.ONE IN THK MOUNTAINS.
plish in cold, and surrounded by (lungers, before reaching
111! \vnil('rni<^' ground.
' I
III November the ciini|) left Missouri Lake on the east
side of the mountains, and crossed over, still northeasterly,
oil to the (lallatin fork of the Missouri River, passing over
;i very rough and broken country. They were, in fact,
still in the midst of mounlains, being sj)urH of the great
Rocky range, and (MiUiilly high aiul rugged. A ])artic-
iilarly high mountain lay b(!tween them and the main
Yellowstone River. This they had just crossed, Avith
^reat fatigue and dilficulty, and were resting the camp
and horses for a few days on the river's bank, when the
Blackfeet once more attacked them in considerable num-
l)ors. Two men were killed in this fight, and the camp
thrown into confusion by the suddenness of the alarm.
Cai)t. Sublette, however, got off, with most of his men,
still pursued by the Indians. ' " - ■ ' *
Not so our Joe, who this time was not in luck, but was
cut of!' from camp, alone, and had to flee to the high
mountains overlooking the Yellowstone. Here was a sit-
uation for a nineteen-year-old raw recruit ! Knowing that
the Blackfeet were on the, trail of the camp, it was death
to proceed in that direction. Some other route must be
taken to come up with them ; the country was entirely
unknov,m to him ; the cold severe ; his mule, blanket, and
gun, his only earthly possessions. On the latter he de-
pended for food, but game was scarce ; and besides, he
thought the sound of his gun would frighten himself, so
alone in the wilderness, swarming with stealthy foes.
Hiding his mule in a thicket, he ascended to the moun-
tain top to take a view of the country, and decide upon
his course. And what a scene was that for the miser-
able boy, whose chance of meeting with his comrades
again was small indeed ! At his feet rolled the Yellow-
4-
k
I
Hi
A miserabir; night.
stone River, coursing away through the great plain to the
eastward. To the north his eye follows the windings of
the Missouri, as upon a map, but playing at hide-and-seek
in amongst the mountains. Looking back, he saw the
River Snake stretching its serpentine length through I'^.va
plains, far away, to its junction with the Columbia. To
the north, and to the south, one white mountain rose
above another as far as the eye could r'>ach. What a
mighty and magnilicent world it seemed, to be alone in !
Poor Joe succumbed to the influence of the thought, and
wept.
Having indulged in this sole remaining luxury of life,
Joe picked up his resolution, and decided upon his course.
To the southeast lay the Crow country, a land of plenty,
— as the mountain-man regards plenty, — and there he
could at least live ; provided the Crows permitted him to
do 3o. Besides, he had some hopes of falling in with one
of the camps, by taking that course.
Descending the mountain to the hiding-place of his
mule, by which time it was dark night, hungry and freez-
ing, Joe still could not light a fire, for fear of revealing his
whereabouts to the Indians ; nor could he remain to per-
ish with cold. Travel he must, and travel he did, going
he scarcely knew whither. Looking back upon the terrors
and discomforts of that night, the veteran mountaineer
yet regards it as about the most miserable one of his
life. When day at length broke, he had made, as well as
he ' ;iild estimate the distance, about thirty miles. Trav-
eling on toward the southeast, he had crossed the Yellow-
stone River, and still among the mountains, was obliged
to abandon his mule and accoutrements, retaining only
one blardsct and his gun. Neither the mule nor himself
had broken fast in the last two days. j<ec!ping a south-
erly course f<-)r twenty miles more, over a rough and
AWFUL SOLITUDE. A SINGULAR DISCOVERY.
75
elevated country, he came, ou the evening of the third
(lav, upon a band of mountain slieep. With what eager-
iK^ss did he hasten to kill, cook, and eat ! Three days of
fasting was, for a novice, v^^uite sutiicient to provide him
with an appetite.
Having eaten voraciously, and being quite overcome
with fatigue, Joe fell asleep in his blanket, and slumbei'ed
(|uite deeply until morning. With the morning came
biting blasts from the north, that made motion necessary
if not pleasant. Refreshed by sleep and food, our trav-
eler hastened on upon h^s solitary way, taking with him
whnt sheep-meat he could carry, traversing the same
rough and mountainous country as before. No incidents
nor alarms varied the horriljle and monotonous solitude
of the wilderness. The very absence of anything to
alarm w^as awful ; for the bravest man is wretchedly nerv-
ous in the solitary presence of sublime Nature. Even
the veteran hunter of the mountains can never e'.itircly
divest himself of this feeling of awe, when his single soul
comes face to face with God's wonderful and beautiful
handiwork. '
At the close of the fourth df ^ , Joe made his lonely
ciunp in a deep ddile of the mcuntains, where a little fire
and some roasted mutton again comforted his inner and
outer man, and another night's sleep still farther refreshed
his wearied frame. On the following morning, a very
bleak and windy one, having breakfjisted on his remain-
ing piece of mutton, being desirous to learn something of
the piogress he had made, he ascended a low mountain in
the neighborhood of his camp — and behold ! the whole
country beyond was smoking with the vapor from boiling
s[)rings, and burning with gasses, issuirig from small cra-
ters, each of which was emitting a sharp whistling sound.
Waen the first surprise of this astonishing scene had
WM«|»H|I
76
A HELL ON EARTH.
passed, Joe began to admire its effect in an artistic point
of view. The morning being clear, with a sharp frost, he
thonght himself reminded of the city of Pittsburg, as he
had beheld it on a winter morning, a couple of years be-
fore. This, however, related only to the rising smoke and
vapor ; for the extent of the volcanic region was immense,
reaching far out of sight. The general face of the coun-
try was smooth and rolling, being a level plain, dotted
with cone-shaped mounds. On the sunmiits of these
mounds were small craters from four to eight fc. ' in di-
ameter. Interspersed among these, on the lev\;i plain,
were larger craters, some of them from four to six miles
across. Out of these craters issued blue flames and molten
})rimstone.
For some minutes Joe gazed and wondered. Curious
thoughts came into his head, about hell and the day of
doom. With that natural tendency to reckless gayety
and humorous absurdities which some temperaments are
sensible of in times of great excitement, he began to solilo-
quize. kSaid he, to himself, "I have been told the sun
would be blown out. and the earth burnt up. If this in
fernal wind keeps up, I shouldn't be surprised if the sun
war blown out. If the earth is not burning up over thar,
then it is that place tlie old Methodist preacher used to
threaten me with. Any way it suits me to go and seo
what it's like."
On descending to the plain described, the eav(h was
found to have a hollow sound, and seemed thivateniug to
break through. But Joe found the warmth v>f the place
most delightful, after the freezing cold of the >nountains.
and remarked to himself again, that ''if \t war hell, it war
a more agreeable climate than he H;^d hvow in for some
time."
He had thought the couut»'y i^^li^vlt) desolate, as not a
OLD JOE
-A JOYFUL RECOGNITION.
77'
living creature had been seen in the vicinity ; but while
he stood gazing about him in curious amazement, he was
startled by the report of two guns, followed by the Indian
yell. While making rapid preparations for defence and
flight, if either or both should be necessary, a familiar
voice greeted him with the exclamation, "It is old Joe! "
When the adjective "old" is applied to one of Meek's
age at that time, it k generally understood to be a term
of endearment. " My feelings you may imagine," says the
''old Uncle Joe" of the present time, in recalling the
adventure.
Being joined by these two associates, who had been look-
ing for him, our traveler, no longer simply a raw recruit,
but a hero of wonderful adventures, as well as the rest of
the men, proceeded with them to camp, which they over-
took the third day, attempting to cross the high moun-
tains between the Yellowstone and the Bighorn Rivers.
If Meek had seen hard times in the mountains alone, he
did not find them much improved in camp. The snow
was so deep that the men had to keep in advance, and
break the road for the animals ; and to make their condi-
tion still more trying, there were no pro\ in camp,
nor any prospect of plenty, for men or animai8, until they
should reach the buffalo country beyond the mountains.
During this scarcity of provision's, some of those amus-
ing incidents took place witli which the mountainet.'r will
contrive to lighten his own and his comrades' spirits, even
in periods of the greatest suilering. One Avhich we have
})ermission to relate, has reference to what Joe Meek calls
the "meanest act of his life."
While the men wero starvirig, a negro boy, belonging to
Jedediah Smith, by some meaiis was ho fortunate as to
have caught a porcupine, which he was roasting l>^ore the
lire. Happening to turn his back for a monw-^nt, to '^liji^jfve
wi'wir
18
CRAIG S RABBIT.
something in camp, Meek and Reese snatched the tempt-
ing- viuiul and made off* with it, before the darkey discov-
ered his loss. But when it was discovered, what a wail
went up for the embezzled porcupine ! Suspicion lixed
upon the guilty parties, but as no one would 'peach on
white men to save a "nigger's" rights, the poor, disap-
pointed boy could do nothing but lament in vain, to the
great amusement of the men, who upon the principle that
' miseiy loves company," rather chuckled over than con-
demned Meek's "mean act."
Th.ere was a sequel, hoAvever, to this little story. So
much did the negro dwell upon the eveat, and the heart-
lessness of the men towards him, that in the following
summer, when Smith was in St. Louis, he gave the boy his
freedom and two ^lundred dollars, and left him in that city;
so that it became a saying in the mountahis, that "the nig-
ger got his freedom for a porcupine."
During this same march, a similar joke was played upon
one of the men named Craig. He had caught a rabbit
and put it up to roast before the fire — a tempting looking
morsel to starving mountaineers. Some of his associates
determined to see how it tasted, and Craig was told that
the Booshways wished to speak with him at their lodge.
While he obeyed this snjiposed command, the rabbit w;is
spirited away, never more to be seen by mortal man.
When Craig returned to the camp-fire, and beheld the
place vacant where a rabbit so late was nicely roasting, his
passion knew no bounds, and he declared his intention of
cutting it out of the stomach that contained it. But as
finding the identical stomach which contained it involved
the cutting open of many that probably did not, in the
search, he was fain to relinquish that mode of vengeance,
together with his hopes of a supper. As Craig is still liv-
ing, and is tormented by the belief that he knows the man
WHAT THE RCOUT SAW.
7^
who stole his rabbit, Mr. Meek takes this opportunity of
assuring him, upon the word of a gentleman, that he is
not the man. ' . .
While on the nr arch over these mountains, owing to the
depth of the snow, the company lost a hundred head of
horses and mules, which sank in the yet unfrozen dril'ts,
and could not be extricated. In despair at their situation,
Jedediah Smith one day sent a man named Harris to the
top of a high peak to take a vie^^ of the country, and ascer-
tain their position. After a toilsome scramble the scout
returned.
"Well, what did you see, Harris?" asked Smith anx-
iously.
"I saw the city of St. Louis, and one fellow taking a
drink ! " replied Harris ; prefacing the assertion with a
shocking oath.
Smith asked no more questions. He understood by the
man's answer that he had made no pleasing discoveries ;
and knew that they had still a weary way before them to
reach the plains below. Besides, Smith was a religious
man, and the coarse profanity of the mountaineers was
very distasteful to him. " A very mild man, and a christ-
ian ; and there were very few of them in the mountains,"
is the account given of him by the mountaineers ther:'>-
selves.
The camp finally arrived without loss of life, except to
the animals, on the plains of the Bigliorn River, and came
upon the waters of the Stinking Fork, a })ranch of this
river, which derives its unfortunate appellation from the
fact liiat it flows through a volcanic tract similar to the
one discovered by Meek on the Yellowstone plains. This
place afforded as much food for wonder to the whole camp,
as the former one had to Joe; and the men unanimously
pronounced it the "back du«)r to that country which divines
•' A
80
4
AN ALARM — CROW WAR PARTY.
preach about." As this volcanic district had previously
been seen by one of Lewis and Clarke's men, named Col-
ter, while on ? solitary hunt, and by him also denominated
" hell," there must certainly have been something very
suggestive in its appearance.
If the mountains had proven barren, and inhospitably
cold, this hot and sulphurous country offered no greater
hospitality. In fact, the fumes which pervaded the air
rendered it exceedingly noxious to every living thing,
and the camp was fain to push on to the main stream of
the Bighorn River. Here signs of trappers became appa-
rent, and spies having been sent out discovered a camp of
about forty men, under Milton Sublette, brother of Captain
William Sublette, the same that had been detached the
previous summer to hunt in that country. Smith and Sub-
lette then cached their furs, and moving up the river joined
the camp of M. Sublette.
The manner of caching furs is this : A pit is dug to a
depth of five or six feet in which to stand. The men then
drift froiri this under a bank of solid earth, a,nd excavate a
room of considerable dimensions, in which the furs are
deposited, and the apartment closed up. The pit is then
filled up with earth, and the traces of digging obliterated
or concealed. These caches are the only storehouses of
the wilderness.
While the men were recruiting themselves in the Joint
camp, the alarm of "Indians!" was given, and hurried
cries of "shoot! shoot!" were uttered on the instant.
Captain Sublette, however, checked this precipitation, and
ordering the men to hold, allowed the Indians to approach,
making signs of peace. They proved to be a war party
of Crows, who after smoking the pipe of peace with the
Captain, received from him a preaent of some tobacco, and
departed^
CHRISTMAS.
81
As soon as the camp was sufficiently recrnitod for irav-
eliiig, the united companies set out again toward the south,
and crossed the Horn mountains once more into Wind River
Valley ; having had altogether, a successful fall lunit, and
made some important explorations, notwithstanding the
severity of the weather and the difficulty of mountain trav-
eling. It was about Christmas when the camp arrived on
Wind River, and the cold intense. While the men cele-
brated Christmas, as best they might under the circum-
stances, Capt. Sublette started to St. Louis with one man,
Harris, called among mountain ineu Black Harris, on snow-
shoes, with a train of pack-dogs. Such was the indomita-
ble energy and courage of this famous leader !
^ i
82
A HUNTERS TAUADISE.
CHAPTER IV.
1830. The furs collected by Jackson's company were
cached on the Wind River ; and the cold still being very
severe, and game scarce, the two remaining leaders. Smith
and Jackson, set out on the first of January with the
whole camp, for the buffalo country, on the Powder
River, a distance of about one hundred aixd fifty miles.
" Times were hard in camp," when mountains had to be
crossed in the depth of winter.
The animals had to be subsisted on the bark of the
sweet cotton-wood, which grows along the streams and in
the valleys on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, but
is nowhere to be found west of that range. This way of
providing for his horses and mules involved no trifling
amount of labor, when each man had to furnish food for
several of them. To collect this bark, the men carried
the smooth limbs of the cotton-wood to camp, where, be-
side the camp-fire, they shaved off the SAveot, green bark
with a hunting-knif transformed into a drawing knife l)y
fastening a piece o. wotitl tti Its point; or, incase the
cotton-wcod was noi, convenient, the bark was peeled off",
and carried to camp in a blanket. Ho nutritious is it,
that animals fatten upon it quite as well ns upon oats.
In the large cotton-wood botionm nn tlH5 YellowKtniio
River, it sometimes became necessary to station a doiililo
guard to keep the buifalo out of camp, so numerous were
they, when the severity of the coUl drove llioni from the
prairies to these cotton-wood thickets for subsistence. It
THE TRANSFORMATION IN THE WILDERNESS.
83
was, therefore, of double importance to make the winter
camp where the cotton-wood was plenty ; since not only
did it furnish the animals of the camp with food, but h}'
attracting buffalo, made game plenty for the men. To
such a hunter's paradise on Powder River, the (amp was
now traveling, and arrived, after a hard, cold march,
about the middle of January, when the whole encamp-
ment went into winter quarters, to remain u,util the open-
ing of spring.
This was the occasion when the mountain-man " lived
flit" and enjoyed life: a season of plenty, of relaxation,
of amusement, of acquaintanceship with all the compan)'-,
of gayety, and of " busy idleness." Through the da}--,
hunting parties were coming and going, moi were cook-
ing, drying meat, making moccasins, cleaning their arms,
wrestling, playing games, and, in short, everything that
an isolated community of hardy men could resort to for
occupation, was resorted to by these mountaineers. Nor
was there wanting, in the appearance of the camp, the
variety, and that picturesque air imparted by a mingling
of the native element ; for what with their Indian allies,
their native wives, and numerous children, the mountain-
eers' camp was a motley assemblage ; and the trappers
themselves, with their affectation of Indian coxcombry,
not the least pictui'esque individuals.
The change wrought in a wilderness landscape by the
arrival of the grand camp was wonderful indeed. Instead
of Nature's superb silence and majestic loneliness, there'
was the sound of men's voices in boisterous laughter, or
Iho busy hum of conversation ; the loud-resounding stroke
of the axe ; the sharD report of the rifle ; the neighing
of horses, and braying of mules ; the Indian whoop and
yell ; and all that not unpleasing confusion of sound which
accompanies the movements of the creature man. Over
I ■■ .til
84
TUB ENCAMPMENT BY NIGHT.
the plain, only dotted until now with shadows of clouds,
or the transitory passage of the deer, the antelope, or the
bear, were scattered hundreds of lodges and immense
herds o*" grazing aninuils. Even the atmosphere itself
seemed changed from its original purity, and became
clouded with the smoke from many camp-fires. And all
this change might go as quickly as it came. The tent
struck and the march resumed, solitude reigned once
more, and only the cloud dotted the silent landscape.
If the day was busy and gleesome, the night had its
charms as well. Gathered about the shining fires, groups
of men in fantastic costumes told tales of marvelous ad-
ventures, or sung some old-remembered song, or were
absorbed in games of chance. Some of the better edu-
cated men, who had once known and loved books, but
whom some mishap in life had banished to the wilderness,
recalled their favorite authors, and recitod passages once
treasured, now growing unfamiliar ; or v liispercd to some
chosen confrere the saddened history of his eai-lier years,
and charged him thus and thus, should ever-ready death
sur])rise himself in the next spring's hunt.
It will not be thought discreditable to our young trap-
per, Joe, that he learned to read by the light of the camp-
fire. Becoming sensible, even in the wilderness, of the
deficiencies of his early education, he found a teacher in
a comrade, named Green, and soon acquired sufficient
knowledge to enjoy an old copy of Shakspeare, which,
with a Bible, was carried about with the property of the
camp.
In this life of careless gayety and plenty, the whole
company was allowed to remain without interruption,
until the first of April, when it was divided, and once
more started on the march. Jackson, or " Davey," as he
was called by the men, with about half the company, left
HEAVY LOSB OF lIOIWEa AND TUAPS-
85
for the Snake country. The remainder, among" whom
was Meek, started north, with Smith lor commander, and
James Bridger as })ih)t.
Crossing the mountains, ranges of which divide the
tributary streams of tiie Yellowstone from each other, the
iirst halt was made on Tongue River. From thence tlie
camp proceeded to the Jiighorn River. Tiirough all this
country game was in abundance, — buffalo, elk, and bear,
and beaver also plenty. In mountain })hrase, " times
were good on this hunt: " beaver packs increased in num-
ber, and both men and animals were in excellent condi-
tion.
A large party usually hunted out the beaver and fright-
ened away the game in a few weeks, or days, from any
one locality. When this happened the camp moved on ;
or, should not game be plenty, it kept constantly on the
move, the hunters and trappers seldom remaining out
more than a day or two. Should the country be consid-
ered dangerous on account of Indians, it was the habit of
the men to return every night to the encampment.
It was the design of Smith to take his command into
the Blackfoot country, a region abounding in the riches
which he sought, could they only be secured without
coming into too frequent conflict with the natives : always
a »! vi>tful question concerning these savages. He had
p ococ'.ed in this direction as far as Bovey's Fork of the
Bi' iior.t, when the camp was overtaken by a heavy fall
of snow, wjiich made traveling extremely diflicult, and
which, when melted, caused a sudden great rise in the
mountain streams. In attempting to cross Bovey's Fork
during the high water, he had thirty horses swept away,
with three hundred traps : a serious loss in the business
of hunting beaver.
In the manner described, pushing on through an uu-
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86
ROBBED AND INSULTED BY A BEAR.
1/'
known country, hunting and trapping as they moved, the
company proceeded, passing another low chain of moun-
tains, through a pass called Pryor's Gap, to Clark's Fork
of the Yellowstone, thence to Rose-Bud River, and finally
to the main Yellowstone River, where it makes a great
bend to the east, enclosing a large plain covered with
grass, and having also extensive cotton-wood bottoms,
wliich subsequently became a favorite wintering ground
of the fur companies.
It was while trapping up in this country, on the Rose-
Bud River, that an amusing adventure befel our trapper
Joe. Being out with two other trappers, at some distance
from the great camp, they had killed and supped oft' a fat
bufialo cow. The night was snowy, and their camp was
made in a grove of young aspens. Having feasted them-
selves, the remaining store of choice pieces was divided
between, and placed, hunter fashion, under the heads of
the party, on their betaking themselves to their blanket
couches for the night. Neither Indian nor wild beast dis-
t\irbed their repose, as they slept, with their guns beside
them, filled with comfort and plenty. But who ever
dreams of the presence of a foe under such circum-
stances ? Certainly not our young trapper, v/ho was only
awakened about day-break by something very large and
heavy walking over him, and snuffing about him with a
most insulting freedom. It did not need Yankee powers
of guessing to make out who the intruder in camp might
be : in truth, it was only too disagreeably certain that it
was a full sized grizzly bear, whose keenness of smell had
revealed to him the presence of fat cow-meat in that
neighborhood.
" You may be sure," says Joe, " that I kept very quiet,
while that bar helped himself to some of my buffalo meat,
tuid went a little way off" to eat it. But Mark Head, one
'■ ,;.:iif!i!u;i v/i^
v#-
A NOVliL FEHUIAUE.
8T
of the men, raised up, and back came the bar. Down
went our heads under the bhankets, and I kept mine cov-
ered pretty snug, while the beast took another walk over
the bed, but finally went off again to a little distance.
Mitchel then wanted to shoot ; but I said, ' no, no ; hold
on, or the brute will kill us, sure.' When the bar heard
our voices, back he run again, and jumped on the bed as
before. I'd have been happy to have felt myself sinking
ten feet under ground, while that bar promenaded over
and around us ! However, he couldn't quite make out our
style, and finally took fright, and ran oft' down the moun-
tain. Wanting to be revenged for his impudence, I went
after hira, and seeing a good chance, shot hhn dead.
Then I took my turn at running over him awhile ! "
Such are the not infrequent incidents of the trapper's
life, which furnish him with material, needing little em-
bellishment to convert it into thosr- wild tales with which
the nights are whiled away around the winter camp-fire.
Arrived at the Yellowstone with his company. Smith
found it necessary, on account of the high water, to con-
struct Bull-boats for the crossing. These are made by
stitching together bufflilo hides, stretching them over light
frames, and paying the seams with elk tallow and ashes.
In these light wherries the goods and people were ferried
over, while the horses and mules were crossed by swim-
mhig.
The mode usually adopted in crossing large rivers, was
to spread the lodges on the ground, throwing on them the
light articles, saddles, etc. A rope was then run through
the pin-holes around the edge of each, when it could bo
drawn up like a reticule. It was then filled with the
heavier camp goods, and being tightly drawn up, formed a
perfect ball. A rope being tied to it, it was launched on
the water, the children of the camp on top, and the wo-
men swimming after and clinging to it, while a man, who
n\
lippBnir''^
88'
RETURN MARCH RUDE BURIAL SERVICE.
1 uf
had the rope in his hand, swam ahead holding on to his
horse's niane. In this way, dancing like a cork on the
waves, the lodge was piloted across; and passengers as
well as freight consigned, undamaged, to the opposite
shore. A large camp of three hundred men, and one
hundred women and children were frequently thus crossed
in one hour's time.
The camp was now in the excellent but inhospitable
country of the Blackfeet, and the commander redoubled
his precautions, moving on all the while to the Mussel Shell,
and thence to the Judith River. Beaver were plenty
and game abundant ; but the vicinity of the large village
of the Blackfeet made trapping impracticable. Their
■•./ar upon the trappers was ceaseless ; their thefts of traps
and horses ever recurring : and Smith, finding that to re-
main w;is to be involved in incessant warfare, without
hope of victory or gain, at length gave the command to
turn back, which was cheerfully obeyed : for the trappers
had been very successful on the spring hunt, and thinking
discretion some part at least of valor, were glad to get
safe out of the Blackfoot country with their rich harvest
of beaver skins.
The return march was by the way of Pryor's Gap, and
up the Bighorn, to Wind River, where the cache was
made in the previous December. The furs were now
taken out and pressed, ready for transportation across the
plains. A party was also dispatched, under Mr. Tullock,
to raise the cache on the Bighorn River. Among this
party was Meek, and a Frenchman named Ponto. While
digging to come at the fur, the bank above caved in, fal-
ling upon Meek and Ponto, killing the latter almost in-
stantly. Meek, though severely hurt, was taken out alive :
while poor Ponto was "rolled in a blanket, and pitched
into the river." So rude were the burial services of the
trapper of the Rocky Mountains. •- . ' ,f
THE OLD PARTNERS TAKE LEAVE.
89
Meek was packed back to camp, along with the furs,
whore he soon recovered. Sublette arrived from St.
Louis with fourteen wagons loaded with merchandise, and
two hundred additional men for the service. Jackson also
arrived from the Snake country with plenty of beaver,
and the business of the yearly rendezvous began. Then
the scenes previously described were re-enacted. Beaver,
the" currency of the mountains, was plenty that year, and
goods were high accordingly. A thousand dollars a day
was not too much for some of the most reckless to spend
on their squaws, horses, alcohol, and themselves. For
"alcohol" was the beverage of the mountaineers. Liquors
could not be furnished to the men in that country. Pure
alcohol was what they "got tight on;" and a desperate
tight it was, to be sure !
An important change took place in the affairs of the
Rocky Mountain Company at this rendezvous. The three
partners, Smith, Sublette, and Jackson, sold out to a new
firm, consisting of Milton Sublette, James Bridger, Fitz-
patrick, Frapp, and Jervais ; the new company retaining
the same name and style as the old. :^'.v.'.".- -•;,•• fi/ .iij<; 6'ft-3
The old partners left for St. Louis, with a company of
seventy men, to convoy the furs. Two of them never re-
turned to the Rocky Mountains ; one of them. Smith, be-
ing killed the following year, as will hereafter be related ;
and Jackson remaining in St. Louis, where, like a true
mountain-man, he dissipated his large and hard-earned
fortune in a few years. Captain Sublette, however, con-
tinued to make his annual trips to and from the mountains
for a number of years ; and until the consolidation of an-
other wealthy company with the Rocky Mountain Com-
pany, continued to furnish goods to the latter, at a profit
on St. Louis prices ; his capital and experience enabling
him to keep the new firm under his control to a large
"i- ^ it 'to TdqqiiX}
loffree.
hi?
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m^mmr
90
ABUNDANCE OF GAME — THE GRIZZLY BEAU.
I/'
CHAPTER V.
1830. The whole country lying upon the Yellowstone
and its tributaries, and about the head-waters of theMissouri,
at the time of which we are writing, abounded not only in
beaver, but in buffido, bear, elk, antelope, and many smaller
kinds of game. Indeed the buftalo used then to cross
the mountains into the valleys about the head-waters of the
Snake and Colorado Rivers, in such numbers that at cer-
tain seasons of the year, the plains and river bottoms
swarmed with them. Since that day they have quite dis-
appeared from the western slope of the Rocky Mountains,
and are no longer seen in the same numbers on the east-
ern side. -
Bear, although they did not go in herds, were rather
uncomfortably numerous, and sometimes put the trapper
to considerable trouble, and fright also ; for very few were
brave enough to willingly encounter the formidable griz-
zly, one blow of whose terrible paw, aimed generally at
the hunter's head, if not arrested, lays hi-.ii senseless and
torn, an easy victim to the wrathful monster. A gunshot
wound, if not directed with certainty to some vulnerable
point, has only the eifect to infuriate the beast, and make
him trebly dangerous. From the fact that the bear al-
ways bites his wound, and commences to run with his
head thus brought in the direction from which the ball
comes, he is pretty likely to make a straight wake towards
his enemy, whether voluntarily or not ; and woe be to the
hunter who is not prepared for him, with a shot for his
AN ADVENTURE WITH A GUIZZLY.
91
eye, or the apot just behind the car, wheie ccrtiiin death
enters.
In the frequent encounterR of the mountain -men with
these huf?c beasts, many aets of wonderful bravery were
performed, while some tragedies, and not a few comedies
were enacted.
From something humorous in Joe Mcelc's organization,
or some wonderful ''luck" to which he was born, or both,
the greater part of his adventures with bears, as with men,
were of a humorous complexion ; enal)ling him not only
to have a story to tell, but one at which his companions
were bound to laugh. One of these which happened dur-
ing the fall hunt of 1830, we will let him. tell for himself:
" The first fall on the Yellowstone, Hawkins and myself
were coming up the river in search of camp, when we dis-
covered a very large bar on the opposite bank. We shot
across, and thought we had killed him, fur he laid quite
still. As we wanted to take some tro})hy of our victory
to camp, we tied our mules and left our guns, clothes, and
everything except our knives and belts, and swum over to
whar the bar war. But instead of being dead, as we ex-
pected, he sprung up as we come near him, and took after
us. Then you ought to have seen two naked men run !
It war a race for life, and a close one, too. But we made
che river first. The bank war about fifteen feet high above
the water, and the river ten or twelve feet deep ; but we
didn't halt. Overboard we went, the bar after us, and in
the stream about as quick as we war. The current war
very strong, and the bar war about half way between
Hawkins and me. Hawkins was trying to swim down
stream faster than tne current war carrying tlie bar, and I
war a trying to hold back. You can reckon that I swam !
Every moment I felt myself being washed into the yawn-
ing jaAvs of the mighty beast, whose head war up the
'' ■ I
I
I
i
i M
.yim.'W''^
92
nirXY, DAVKV, AND OLD OABB.
1/
stronm, and his eyes on mo. But tho current war too strong
lor him, and swept liim along as fast as it did mo. All this
tinio, not a long ono, wo Avar looking for some place to
land where the bar could not overtake us. Hawkins Avar
the first to make the shore, unknoAvn to the bar, Avhose
head AA'ar still up stream ; and he set up such a whooping
and yelling that the bar landed too, but on the opposite
side. I made haste to folloAV ITaAvkins, Avho had landed
on the side of the ri\'er aa'^o started from, either by design
or good luck : and then Ave traveled back a mile and more
to Avhar our mules war left — a bar on one side of the river,
and iwo hares on the other ! "
NotAvithstanding that a necessary discipline was observed
and maintained in the fur traders' camp, there was at the
same time a freedom of manner betAvecn the BoosliAvavs
and the men, both hired and free, Avhich could not obtain
in a purely military organization, nor even in the higher
walks of civilized life in cities. In the mountain commu-
nity, motley as it was, as in other communities more refined,
were some men Avho enjoyed almost unlimited freedom of
speech and action, and others who Avere the butt of every-
body's ridicule or censure. The leaders themselves did
not escape the critical judgment of the men ; and the es-
timation in which they Avere held could be inferred from
the manner in Avhich they designated them. Captain Sub-
lette, whose energy, courage, and kindness entitled him to
the adnn'ration of the mountaineers, went by the name of
Billy : his partner Jackson, was called Daveij • Bridger,
old Gahe^ and so on. In the same manner the men distin-
guished favorites or oddities amongst themselves, and to
have the adjective old prefixed to a man's name signified
nothing concerning his age, but rather that he was an
object of distinction ; though it did not always indicate,
except by the tone in which it was pronounced, whether
that distinction were an enviable one or not.
)o strong
All tliis
place to
kins wiir
ir, wliosi'
t'hoopiiii^'
oppositi;
i laiidcil
)y design s
iiid more
the river,
observed
van at tlie
ooshwavs
lot obtain
he higher
n coramu-
'e refined,
eedom of
; of every-
elves did
lid the es-
rred from
)tain Sub-
ed him to
3 name of
Bridger,
len distin-
es, and to
) signified
ic was ail
i indicate,
, whether
Hi
now SUULliTTK CLIMBED A COTTON WOOD.
93
Whoncv(3r a trapper could jj^ct liold of any sort of story
rollccling on the c()iira<j^e of a leader, lie was sure at some
time to make him aware of it, and these aiK^cdotc.'S were
sometimes sharp answers in the mouths of careless camp-
keepers. ]irid<;er was once waylaid by Black feel, wiio
shot at him, hittiu'j;' his horse in several })lace8. The
wounds caused the animal to n^ar and pitch, by reason of
which violent movements Bridger dropped his gun, and
the Indians snatched it up; after which there was nothing
to do except to run, which Bridger accordingly did. Not
long after this, as was customary, the leader was making
a circuit of the camp examining the camp keeper's guns,
to see if they were in order, and found that of one Ma-
loney, an Irishman, in a very dirty condition.
" What would you do," asked Bridger, "with a gun like
that, if the Indians were to charge on the camp?"
— , I would throw it to them, and run the way
[)e
ye did," an.swered Maloney, quickly. It was sometime
after this incident before Bridger again examined Malo-
iioy's gun.
A laughable story in this way wont the rounds of the
camp in this fall of 1830. Milton Sublette was out on a
hunt with Meek after buffalo, and they were just approach-
ing the band on foot, at a distance apart of about fifty yards,
when a lai'ge grizzly bear came out of a thicket and made
after Sublette, who, when he perceived the creature, ran
for the nearest cotton-wood tree. Meek in the meantime,
seeing that Sublette was not likely to escape, had taken
sure aim, and fired at the bcpr, fortunately killing him.
On running up to the spot where it laid, Sublette was discov-
ered sitting at the foot of a cotton-wood, with his legs and
arms clasped tightly around it.
? " asked Meek.
you always
way
94
A Bl'CCEBHFlTL HUNT.
"T reckon you took the wrong end of it, that timo,
Milton!"
" I'll l»e , M?ok, if 1 didn't think I was twenty
feet uj) that tree when you shot;" answered thi; IVi'j^htcned
Booshway ; and from that time the men never tired of
alludiu'' to Milton's numner of climbiuf' a tree.
V'-V'N^
•IIIK WnONO EM) OF THE TUEE.
These were some of the mirthful ineidents whieh gave
occasion for a gayety which had to be substituted for hap-
piness, in the checkered life of the trapper ; and there
were like to be many such, where there were two hun-
dred men, each almost daily in the way of adventures by
flood or field.
On the change in the management of the Company
which occurred at the rendezvous this year, three of the
new partners, Fitzpatrick, Sublette, and Bridger, conducted
a large party, numbering over two hundred, from the Wind
River to the Yellowstone ; crossing thence to Smith's River,
the Falls of the Missouri, three forks of the Missouri, and
to the Big Blaekfoot River. The hunt proved very suc-
cessful ; beaver were plentiful ; and the Blackfeet shy of
so large a traveling party. Although so long in their
country, there were only four men killed ou* !" the whole
company during this autumn.
Mi:i;TiN(i WITH iuvai, traitehs.
95
From tlio BliK'kl'oot Klvcr the coinimiiy proceeded down
the west side of the mountains to the I'orks of the Snake
ilivcr, and iirter liappin^^ for a short time in tiiis locality,
continued their march southward us far as 0^'den's Hole,
11 small valley amon^ the Bear River Mountains.
At this place they fell in with a trading and trap])innr
party, under Mr. Peter Skceu ()<;'den, (^i .'io Hudson's liay
Company. And now commenced that irritating and rep-
rehensible style of rivalry witii whi h th<> dillerent com-
panies were accustomed to annoy owe anoth'jr. Accom-
,r:.}nig Mr. Ogden's trading jKirty wcrf: ii party of Rock-
wiiy Indians, who were from the North, and who were
(inployed by the Hudson's lh\y Company, as the Iroquois
and Crows were, to trap for them, b'itzpatrick and jisso
I'iates camped in the neighborhood of Ogden's company,
luid immediately set about endeavoring to })urchase from
the Rockways and others, the furs collected ibr Mr. Ogden.
Not succeeding by fair means, if the means to such an end
could be called fair, — they opened a keg of whiskey, which,
when the Indians had got a taste, soon drew them away
iVoin the Hudson's Bay trader, the regulations of whose
company forbade the selling or giving of liquors to the
Indians. Under its influence, the furs were disposed of to.
the Rocky Mountain Company, who in this manner obtained
nearly the whole product of their year's hunt. This course
of conduct was naturally exceedingly disagreeable to Mr.
Otrden, as well as unprofitable also; and a feeling of hos-
tility grew up and increased between the two camps.
While matters were in this position, a stampede one day
occurred among the horses in OgdenV. camp, and two or
three of the animals ran away, and ran into the camp of
tlie rival company. Among them was the horse of Mr.
Ogden's Indian wife, which had escaped, with her babe
liiiiiging to the saddle. . ,.<:•.-•«
: Li
i!i
i i
■ "'''
^^^^K= ■
9e
OGDEN S INDIAN WIFE.
f
Not many minutes elapsed, before the mother, following
lier child and horse, entered the camp, passing right
through it, and catching the now halting steed by the bri-
dle. At the same moment she espied one of her com-
pany's pack-horses, loaded with beaver, which had also
run into the enemy's c;amp. The men had already begun
to exult over the circumstance, considering this chance
load of beaver as their:?, by the laws of war. But not so
the Indian woman. Mounting her own horse, she fearlessly
seized the pack-horse by the halter, and led it out of camp,
with its costly burden.
At this undaunted action, some of the baser sort of men
cried out "shoot her, shoot her ! " but a majority interfered,
with opposing cries of "let her go ; let her alone; she's
a brave Avoman : I glory in her pluck ;" and other like
admiring expressions. While the clamor continued, the
wife of Ogden had galloped away, with her baby and
her pack-horse. ' ' Mv-nf ;k; ; .'v,-f.-r
As the season advanced, Fitzpatrick, with his other part-
ners, returned to the east side of the mountains, and went
into winter quarters on Powder river. In this trapper's
"land of" Canaan" they remained between two and three
months. The other two partners. Frapp and Jervais, who
were trapping far to the south, did not return until the
following year.
While wintering it became necessary to send a dispatch
to St. Louis on the company's business. Meek and a
Frenchman named Legarde, were chosen for this service,
which was one of trust and peril also. They proceeded
without accident, however, until the Pawnee villages were
reached, when Legarde was taken ])risoner. Meek, more
cautious, escaped, and proceeded alone a few days' travel
beyond, who^n he fell in with an express on its way to St.
Louis, to whom he delivered his dispatches, and returned
CROW HOKSE-THIEVES.
97
to camp, iicconipaniccl only by a Frencliniau named Cabe-
iieaii ; thus proving liimself an efficient mountaineer at
twenty years of age. i .'/.■,/ ,,, < .,,, , .., ,,, -, ,, ......vwii
18;U. x\s soon as the spring opened, sometime in
March, the whole company started north again, for the
blackfoot country. IJut on the night of the tliird day out,
llicy fell unawares into the neighborhood of a party of
Crow Indians, whose spies discovered the company's
horses feeding on the dry grass of a little bottom, and
succo(!ded in driving oif about three hundred head. Here
was a dilemma to be in, in the heart of an enemy's coun-
try! To send the remaining horses after these, might be
•'sending the axe after the belv" ;" besides most of them
hehingcd to the free trappers, and could not be pressed
into the service.
The only course remaining was to select the best men
and dispatch them on foot, to overtake and retake the
stolen horses. Accordingly one hundred trappers were
ordered on this expedition, among whom were Meek,
Newell, and Antoine Godin, a half-breed and brave fellow,
who was to lead the party. Following the trail of
the Crows for two hundred miles, traveling day and night,
on tlie third day they came up with them on a branch of
the Bighorn river The trappers advanced cautiously,
and being on the opposite side of the stream, on a wooded
bluff" were enabled to approach close enough to look into
their fort, and count the unsuspecting thieves. There
were sixty of them, line young braves, who believed that
now they had made a start in life. Alas, for the vanity
of human, and especially of Crow expectations ! Even
then, while they were grouped around their fires, congratu-
lating themselves on the sudden wc alth which had descend-
ed u})on them, as it were from the skies, an envious fete,
in the shape of several roguish white trappers, was li^ugh,-
7i'P!HB ' I
f>8
NIGHT ATTACK ON THE INDIAN FORT.
I- J'
ing at them aiid their hopes, from the overhanging bhifi'
opposite them. And hy and by, when they were wrapped
ill a satisfied shiniber, two of these hiughing rogues, Rob-
ert Newell, and Antoine Godin, stole under the very
walls of their fort, and setting the horses free, drove them
across the creek. .
The Indians were awakened by the noise of the tramp-
ling horses, and sprang to arms. But Meek and his fellow-
trappers on the bluff' fired into the fort with such effect
that the Crows were appalled. Having delivered their
first volley, they did not wait for the savages to recover
from their recoil. Mounting in hot haste, the cavalcade
of bare-back riders, and their drove of horses, were soon
far away from the Crow fort, leaving the ambitious braves
to finish their excursion on foot. It was afterwards ascer-
tained that the Crows lost seven men by that one volley
of the trappers. '''■■■ f-' -^ ' !;'
Flushed with success, the trappers yet found the back-
ward journey more toilsome than the outward ; for what
with sleeplessness and fiitiguc, and bad traveling in melted
snow, they were pretty well exhausted when they reached
camp. Fearing, however, another raid from the thieving
Crows, the camp got in motion again with as little delay
as possible. They had not gone far, when Fitzpatrick
turned back, with only one man, to go to St. Louis for
supplies. -.V.-. .. .
After the departure of Fitzpatrick, Bridger and Sublette
completed their spring and summer campaign without any
material loss in men or animals, and with considerable
gain in beaver skins. Having once more visited the Yel-
lowstone, they turned to the south again, crossing the
mountains into Pierre'a Hole, on to Snake river ; thence
to Salt river ; thence to Bear river ; and thence to Green
river, to rendezvous.
A •• MEDICINE MAN CONSULTED.
99
It was expected that Fitzpatrick would have arrived
from St. Louis with the usual annual recruits and supplies
of merchandise, in time for the summer rendezvous ; but
after waiting for some time in vain, Bridger and Sublette
determined to send out a small party to look for hini.
The large number of men now employed, had exhausted
the stock of goods on hand. The camp was without
blankets and without ammunition ; knives were not to be
had; traps were scarce; but worse tlian all, the tobacco
liad given out, and alcohol was not ! In such a case as
this, what could a mountain- man do'?
To seek the missing Booshway became not only a dut",
but a necessity ; and not only a necessity of the physical
man, but in an equal degree a need of the moral and spir-
itual man, which was rusting with the tedium of waiting.
In the state of uncertainty in which the minds of the com-
pany were involved, it occurred to that of Frapp to 'Con-
sult a great "'medicine-man" of the Crows, one of those
recruits filched from Mr._ Ogden's party by whiskey the
previous year. ' ■- -■' '• ..-i^.n c.^^ „. „^f ...„i.. .^^.
Like all eminent professional men, the Crow chief re-
quired a generous fee, of the value of a horse or two,
before he would begin to make "medicine." This pecul-
iar ceremony is pretty much alike among all the different
tribes. It is observed first in the making of a medicine
man, «^ e., qualifying him for his profession; and after-
wards is practiced to enable him to heal the sick, to
prophecy, and to dream dreams, or even to give victory
to his people. To a medicine-man was imputed great
power, not only to cure, but to kill ; and if, as it some-
times happened, the relatives of a sick man suspected the
medicine-mau of having caused his death, by the exercise
of evil powers, one of them, or all of them, pursued him
100
HOW MEDICINE MEN ARE MADE.
:::
to the death. Therefore, although it might bo honorable,
it was not always safe to be a great "medicine." m
The Indians placed a sort of religious value upon the
practice of fasting ; a somewhat curious fact, when it is
remembered how many compulsory fasts they are obliged
to endure, which must train them to think lightly of the
deprivation of food. Those, however, who could endure
voluntary abstinence long enougli, were enabled to be-
come very wise and very brave. The manner of maldng
a "medicine" among some of the interior tribes, is in cer-
tain respects similar to the practice gone through with by
some preachers, in making a convert. A sort of camp-
meeting i^ held, for several nights, generally about five,
during which various dances are performed, with cries,
and incantations, bodily exercises, singing, and nervous
excitement ; enough to make many patients, instead of
one doctor. But the native's constitution is a strong one,
and he holds out well. At last, however, one or more
are overcome with the mysterious poiver which enters into
them at that time : making, instead of a saint, only a su-
perstitious Indian doctor. "■' •" "iil.Ji.JO.V:
The same sort of exercises which had made the Crec
man a doctor were now resorted to, in order that he might
obtain a more than natural sight, enabling him to see vis-
ions of the air, or at the least to endow him with pro-
phetic dreams. After several niglits of singing, dancing,
hopping, screeching, beating of drums, and other more
violent exercises and contortions, the exhausted medicine-
man fell off to sleep, and when he awoke he announced
to Frapp that Fitzpatrick was not dead. He was on the
road; some road; but not the right one; etc., etc.
Thus encouraged. Frapp determined to take a party,
and go in search of him. Accordingly Meek, Reese,
Ebarts, and Nelson, volunteered to accompany him. This
THE MISSING TKADEIl FOUND.
101
party set out, first hi the direction of Wind River ; but
not discovering any signs of the lost Booshwaj in thnt
([uarter, crossed over to the Sweetwater, and kept along
down to the North Fork of the Platte, and thence to the
Black Hills, where they found a beautiful country full of
game; but not the hoped-for train, with supplies. After
waiting for a short time at the Black Hills, Frapp's party
returned to the North Fork of the Platte, and were
rejoiced to meet at last, the long absent partner, Avith his
[)ack train. Urged by Frapp, Fitzpatrick hastened for-
ward, and came into camp on Powder River after winter
had set in.
Fitzpatrick had a tale to tell the other partners, in ex-
l)lanation of his unexpected delay. When he had started
for St. Louis in the month of March previous, he had
hoped to have met the old partners, Capt. Sublette and
Jedediah Smith, and to have obtained the necessary sup-
plies from them, to furnish the Summer rendezvous with
plerity. But these gentlemen, when he fell in with them,
used certain arguments which induced him to turn back,
and accompany them to Santa Fe, where they prom-
ised to furnish him goods, as he desired, and to procure
for him an escort at that place. The journey had proven
tedious, and unfortunate. They had several times been
aUacked by Indians, and Smith had been killed. While
they were camped on a small tributary of the Simmaron
River, Smith had gone a short distance from camp to pro-
cure water, and while at the stream, was surprised by an
ambush, and murdered on the spot, his murderers escaping
unpunished. Sublette, now left alone in the business,
finally furnished him ; and he had at Ijist made his ^vyay
back to his Rocky Mountain camp.
But Fitzpatrick's content at being once more with his
company was poisoned by the disagreeable proximi1:y of a
<ii
' 1
"piWWII !" n.
102
EXPEDITION ON SNOW SHOES.
rival company. If he had annoyed Mr. Ogden of the
Hudson's Bay Company, in the previous autumn, Major
Vandcrburg and Mr. Dripps, of the American Company,
J in their turn annoyed him. Tiiis com})}i,ny had been on
their heels, from the Platte River, and now were camped
in the same neighborhood, using the Rocky Mountain
Company as pilots to show them the country. As this
was just what it was not for their interest to do, the
Hocky Mountain Company raised camp, and fairly ran
away from them ; crossing the mountains to the Forks of
ihe Snake River, where they wintered among the Nez Per-
ces and Flathead Indians. ,,[oy^
Some time during this winter, Meek and Legarde, who
had escaped from the Pawnees, made another expedition
together ; traveling three hundred miles on snowshoes, to
the Bitter Root River, to look for a party of free trappers,
whose beaver the company wished to secure. They were
absent two months and a half, on this errand, and were
entirely successful, passing a Blackfoot village in the
night, but having no adventures worth recounting.
'ioff ftr I-:' 'I'l >■(-!;[: ■ fl ■■ -of !:
hr:r
■/U,M.;. ■
V'l.f'iU'}: 'j'''i'
■"t " -:. ' 'f.
■ : ■ r ■:
•■,'•'■ I
lU
.,^ !h-^^
.' >,?!''- f-.,* ->.->■;:-
?i
f ", I
7n'|-;.^;S;'j^* ;
ii'T-i/irrt .iuj-j,' ",:
Y^
•d •> ! 1 '-
'■\:^; '■■■■
» !•' ;.. V'.':. Iv"*'!- , "i' •■' ■•
1
'< ANNOYING COMPETITION.
103
CHAPTER VI.
1832. In the following spring, the Rocky Mountain Fur
Company commenced its march, first up Lewis' Fork, then
on to Salt River, thence to Gray's River, and thence to
Bear River. They fell in with the North American Fur
Company on the latter river, with a large lot of goods,
but no beaver. The American Company's resident part-
ners were ignorant of the country, and were greatly at a
loss where to look for the good trapping grounds. These
gentlemen, Vanderburg and Dripps, were therefore in-
clined to keep an eye on the movements of the Rocky
Mountain Company, whose leaders were acquainted with
the whole region lying along the mountains, from the
head-waters of the Colorado to the northern branches of
the Missouri. On the other hand, the Rocky Mountain
Company were anxious to "shake the dust from off their
feet," which was trodden by the American Company, and
to avoid the evils of competition in an Indian country.
But they found the effort quite useless ; the rival company
had a habit of turning up in the most unexpected places,
and taking advantage of the hard-earned experience of
the Rocky Mountain Company's leaders. They tampered
with the trappers, and ferreted out the secret of their next ren-
dezvous ; they followed on their trail, making them |:ilots
to the trapping grounds ; they sold goods to the Indians,
and what was worse, to the hired trappers. In this way
grew up that fierce conflict of interests, which made it "as
much as his life was worth" for a trapper to suffer himself
Hi
'^'l
104
THE CHIEF S DAUGHTER — SUBLETTE WOUNDED.
■ 1 ■ :i
r -V 1
i '
to be inveigled into the service of a rival company, which
about this time' or a little later, was at its highest, and
which finally ruined the fur-trade for the American cofli-
panics in the Rocky Mountains.
Finding their rivals in possession of the ground, Bridger
and Milton Sublette resolved to spend but a few days in
that country. But so far as Sublette was concerned, cir-
cumstances ordered differently. A Rockway Chief, named
Gray, and seven of his people, had accompanied the camp
from Ogden's Hole, in the capacity of trappers. But dur-
ing the sojourn on Bear River, there was a quarrel in
camp on account of some indignity, real or fancied, which
had been offered to the chief's daughter, and in the affray
Gray stabbed Sublette so severely that it was thought he
must die. •"' ■■•■■'■■■■■
It thus fell out that Sublette had to be left behind ; and
Meek who was his favorite, was left to take care of him
while he lived, and bury him if he died ; which trouble
Sublette saved hira, however, by getting well. But they
had forty lonesome days to themselves after the camps
had moved off, — one on the heels of the other, to the
great vexation of Bridger. Time passed slowly 1^ Sub-
lette's lodge, while waiting for his wound to heal Day
passed after day, so entirely like each other that the mo-
notony alone seemed sufficient to invite death to an easy
conquest. But the mountain-man's blood, like the In-
dians, is strong and pure, and his flesh heals readily, there-
fore, since death would not have him, the wounded man
was forced to accept of life in just this monotonous form.
To him Joe Meek was everything, — hands, feet, physician,
guard, caterer, hunter, cook, companion, friend. What
long talks they had, when Sublette grew better : what
stories they told ; what little glimpses of a secret chamber
in their hearts, and a better than the every-day spirit, in
CAPTURED BY SNAKE INDIANS,
105
their bosoms, was revealed, — as men will revoiil such
things in the isolation of sea-voyages, or the solitary pres-
ence of majestic Nature. ' r I ,M,.|.l :'.<.,/
To the veteran mountaineer there must have been
something soothing in the care and friendshij) of the
youth of twenty-two, with his daring dis])osition, his frank-
ness, his cheerful humor, and his gixKl looks; — for our Joe
was growing to be a maturely handsome man — tall, broad-
shouldered, straight, with plenty of flesh, and none too
much of it; a Southerner's olive complexion; fnmk, dark
eyes, and a classical nose and chin. What though in the
matter of dres.^ he was ignorant of the latest styles? —
grace imparts elegance even to the trapper's beaver-skin
cap and blanket capote.
At the end of forty days, as many as it took to drown
a world, Sublette found himself well enough to ride ; and
the two set out on their search for camp. But now other
adventures awaited them. On a fork of Green River,
they came suddenly upon a band of Snake Indians feed-
ing their horses. As soon as the Snakes discovered the
white men, they set up a yell, and made an instinctive
rush for their horses. Now was the critical moment.
One word passed between the travelers, and they made a
dash past the savages, right into the village, and never
slacked rein until they threw themselves from their horses
at the door of the Medicine lodge. This is a large and fan-
cifully decorated lodge, which stands in the centre of a vil-
lage, and like the churches of Christians, is sacred. Once
inside of this, the strangers were safe for the present ; their
blood could not be shed there.
The warriors of the village soon followed Sublette and
Meek into their strange house of refuge. In half an
hour it was filled. Not a word was addressed to the
strangers ; nor by them to the Indians, who talked among
rr-\
I |:?
i.
i i
i
1
I i
lOG
A 80LEMN COUNCIL — 8ENTENCK OF DEATU.
themselves with a solemn eagerness, while they smoked
the medieine pipe, as inspiration in tiieir conncils. (ireat
was the excitement in the mitids of tiie listeners, who un-
derstood the Snake tongue, as the qu(;stion of their life or
death was gravely tliscussed; yet in their countenances
appeared only the utmost serenity. To show fear, is to
whet an Indian's appetite lbrl)lood: coolness confounds
and awes him when anything will.
If Sublette had longed for excitement, while an invalid
in his lonely lodge on B(,'ar River, he longed equally now
for that blissful seclusion. Listening for, and hearing
one's death-warrant from a band of blood-thirsty savages,
could only prove with bitter sharpness how sweet was life,
even the most uneventful. For liours the council continued,
and the majority favored the death-sentence. But one old
chief, called the good Gofia, argued long for an acquittal:
he did not see the necessity of murdering two harmless
travelers of the white race. Nothing availed, however,
and just at sunset their doom was fixed. i , - ,, ,^^
.'.+ The only hope of escape was, that, favored by darkness,
they might elude the vigilance of their jailers ; and night,
although so near, seemed ages away, even at sundown.
Death being decreed, the warriors left the lodge one by
one to attend to the preparation of the prelimiriary cere-
monies. Gotia, the good, was the last to depart. As he
left the Medicine lodge he made sigDs to the captives to
remain quiet until he should return ; pointing upwards to
signify that there was a chance of life ; and downwards
to show that possibly they must die.
What an age of anxiety was that hour of waiting ! Not
a word had been exchanged between the prisoners since
the Indians entered the lodge, until now ; and now very
little was said, for speech would draw upon them the vigi-
lance of their enemy, by whom they desired most ar-
dently to be forgotten.
A KESCUIK — UMKNTUL'KEN, TUM MOI'NTAIN L\MH.
10'
About dusk thoro was a groat iioiso, and confusion, and
clouds of (lust, in the south end of the vilhige. Some
thing was going wrong among tlio Indian liorscs. Ininie-
(lintoly all tin; village ran to the scene of the disorder,
iiiid at the same moment (Jotia, tlie good, appeared at the
(luoriof the M(!(licino lodge, l)eekoning the prisoners to
tollow liim. With alacrity they sprang up and after him,
iuul were led across the stream, to a tliicket on the oppo-
site side, where their horses stood, ready to mount, in the
charge of a young Indian girl. They did not stop for
coni])linionts, though had time been less precious, they
might well have bestowed some moments of it in admira-
tion of Umentiicken l^nkuisey Undcicatsef/, the Mountain
ijumb. Soon after, the beautiful Snake girl became the wife
of Milton Sublette ; and after his return to the States, of the
subject of this narrative ; from which circumstance the
incident above related takes on something of the rosy hue
of ronvmce ''■'^^■■' ■ '•ffi)'i/»yi 'imut e\i}i{\,r uii> 'l- •j-f.^r.-.-.-iv .
As each released captive received his bridle from the
delicate hand of the Mountain Lamb, he sprang to the
saddle. Bv this time the chief had discovered that the
strangers understood the Snake dialect. "Ride, if you
wish to live," said he: "ride without stopping, all night:
and to-morrow linger not." With hurried thanks our
mountain-men replied to this advice, and striking into a
gallop, were soon far away from the Snake village. The
luxt day at noon found them a hundred and fifty miles on
their way to camp. Proceeding without further accident,
thoy crossed the Teton Mountains, and joined the com-
pany at Pierre's Hole, after an absence of nearly four
months.
Here they found the ubiquitous if not omnipresent
American Fur Company encamped at the rendezvous of
the Rocky Mountain Company. The partners being anx
•pol od oJ i^nob
108
AN OHSTINATK ItlVAL.
ioufi to be freed from this sort of ospionnp^o, and ol)stinatc
competition on their own ground, miul(» u proj)()sition to
VundiThnri:; and Dripps to divide the country with tlieiii,
each company to keep on its own territory. Tiiis ijropo.si-
tion was refused l)y the American Company; ))eriiaps be-
cause they feared having tlic poorer portion set (^(1' to
tliemselves by tlieir mon^ experienced rivals. On this re-
fusal, the Uocky Mountain Company determined to send
ail express to meet Capt. William riublette, who was ou
his way out with a heavy stock of merchandise, and hurry
him forward, lest the American Com])any should have the
opportunity of disposing of its goods, when the usual
gathering to rendezvous began. On this decision being
formed, Fitzpatrick determined to go on this errand him-
self; which he accordingly did, falling in with Sublette,
and Campl)ell, his associate, somewhere near the Black
Hills. To them he imparted his wishes and designs, and
receiving the assurance of an early arrival at rendezvous,
parted from them at the Sweetwater, and hastened back,
alone, as he came, to prepare for business.
Captain Sublette hurried forward with his train, which
consisted of sixty men with pack-horses, three to a man.
In company with him, was Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth, a history
of wdiose fur-trading and salmon-fishing adventures has
already been given. Captain Sublette had fallen in with
Mr. Wyeth at Independence, Missouri ; and finding him
ignorant of the undertaking on which he was launched,
offered to become pilot and traveling compajuion, an offer
which was gratefully accepted.
The caravan had reached the foot-hills of the Wind
River Mountains, when the raw recruits belonging to both
these parties were treated to a slight foretaste of what
Indian fighting would be, should they ever have to en-
counter it. Their camp was suddenly aroused at midnight
t
iit/patiuck's auvkntdre in thk vointains. 109
by the siiniiltiUR'OUH discliarf^o of p:uiis and arrowH, and
the IVi^'litful wlioojjs uiul yoils with which the savages
make an attack. Nobody was wounded, liowever; but
on s|>riii^^iiig to arms, the Indians lied, lal<iii<,^ with them
a few liorses wliich their yells had lri^ht(;iied (Voiii tlieir
pickets. These niarau(h)rs were Jilaclvrcet, as Captain
Siiljlette e.\[)lained to Mr. VVyetli, tlieir nioecasin tracks
haviuj^- b(!trayed th(.'m; lor as each tribe has a peculiar
wav of making or shaping the moccasin, the ex})ert in
liuliaii habits can detect the nationality t)t" an Indian thief
by his i'oot-print. After this episode of the night assault,
the leaders redoubled their watchfulness, and reached
their destination in Pierre's hole about the iirst of July. ^ .
When Sublette arrived in camp, it was found that Fitz-
|)atrick was missing. If the other })!irtner8 had believed
liini to be with the Captain, the Captain expected to find
liini with them; but since neither could account to the
otfier for his non-appearance, much anxiety was fell, and
Sublette remembered with apprehension the visit he had
received from Blackfeet. However, before any'thing had
been determined upon with regard to him, he jnade his
appearance in camp, in com])any with two Iroquois half-
breeds, belonging to the camp, who had been out on a
hunt.
ritz[)at:ick had met with an adventure, as had been
conjectured. While coming up the Green river valley,
ho descried a snudl party of mounted men, wliom he mis-
took for a company of trappers, and stopped to recon-
noitre; l)ut almost at the same moment the supposed
trappers, perceiving him, set up a yell that cpuckly unde-
ceived him, and conipelh.Ml him to "".^ht. Abandoning
liis pack-horse, he put the other io its topmost speed
and succeeded in gaining the mountains, where in a deep
and dark defile he secretca himself until he judged the
'7 I
110
ROUGH SPORTS.
Indians had left tliat part of the valley. In tliis he was
deceived, for no sooner did he emerge again into the open
country, than he was once more pursued, and had to
abandon his horse, to take refuge among the cliffs of the
mountains. Here he renuiined for several days, without
blankets or provisions, and with only one charge of am-
munition, wliich was in his rifle, and kept for self defense.
At length, howevei', by frequent reconnoitoring, he man-
aged to elude his enemies, traveling by night, until he
fortunately met Avitli the two hunters from camp, and was
conveyed by them to the rendezvous.
All the parties were now safely in. Tiic lonely moun-
tain Aalley was populous with the diifei'ent camps. The
Rocky Mountain and American companies had their sep-
arate camps ; Wyeth had his ; a company of free trappers,
fifteen in number, led by a man named Sinclair, from Ar-
kansas, had the fourth ; the Nez Perccs and Flatheads, the
allies of the Rocky Mountain company, and the friends of
the whites, had their lodges along all the streams ; so that
altogetlier there could not have beeu less than one thou-
sand souls, and two or three thousand horses ;ind mules
gathered in this ])lace.
"When the pie was opened then the birds began to
sing." When Captsiin Sublette's goods were opened and
distributed among the trappers and Indians, then began
the usual gay carousal; and the "fast young men" of the
mountains outvied each other in all manner of mad pranks.
In the beginning of their spree many feats of horseman-
ship and personal strength were exhibited, which were
regarded witli admiring wonder by the sober and inexpe-
rienced New Englanders under ^Ir. Wj^eths command.
And as nothing stimulated the vanity of the mountain-
men like an audience of this sort, the feats they performed
were apt to astonish themselves. In exhibitions of the
-^^
A MAN ON in:E — AX EXPEDITION TO THE SOUTH-WEBT. lii
kind, the free trappers took the lend, and usually carried
off the palm, like the privileged class that they were.
But the horse-racing, fine riding, wrestling, and all the
manlier sports, soon degenerated into the baser exhibi-
tions of a ''cra>.y drunk " condition. The vessel in which
the trapj)er received and carried about his supply of alco-
hol was one of the small camp kettles. "Passing round"
this clumsy goblet very freely, it was not long before a
yoodly number were in the condition just named, and
ready for any mad freak whatever. It is reported by sev-
eral of the mountain-men that on the occasion of one of
these "frolics," one of their number seized a kettle of al-
cohol, and poured it over the head of a tall, lank, red-
headed fellow, repeating as he did so the baptismal cere-
mony. No sooner had he concluded, than another man
with a lighted stick, touched him wish the blaze, vrhen in
an instant he was enveloped in flames. Luckily some of
the company had sense enough left to perceive his danger,
and begaii beating him with pack-saddles to put out the
bhize. I>ut between the burning and the beating, the
unhappy wretch nearly lost his life, and 'never recovered
i'roiu the effects of his baptism by fire. . . ,
Beaver being plenty in camp, business was correspond-
ingly lively, there being a great demand for goods. When
this demand was supplied, as it was in the course of about
three weeks, the different brigades were set in motion.
One ^i' the earliest to move was a small party under Mil-
ton bubleUe, including his constant companion. Meek.
With this company, no more than thirty in number, Sub-
lette intended to explore the country to the south-west,
then unknown to the fur companies, and to proceed as far
as the Humboldt river in tliat direction.
On the 17th of July they set oat toward the south end
of the valley, and having made but about eight miles the
8
i'i'
■•ymrw'^!!^ — '^
112
BLACKFEET CARAVAN PEACEFUL OVERTURES.
first day, camped that niglit near a pass in the mountains.
Wyeth's party of raw New Englanders, and Sinclair's free
trappers, had johied themselves to the company of Milton
Sublette, and swelled the number in camp to about
sixty men, many of them new to the business of mountain
life.
Just as the men were raising camp for a start the next
i..orning, a caravan was observed moving down the moun-
tain pass into the valley. No alarm was at first felt, as an
arrival was daily expected of one of the American com-
pany's partisans, Mr. Fontenelle, and his company. But
on reconnoitering with a glass, Sublette discovered them
to be a large party of Blackfeet, consisting of a few
mounted men, and many more, men, women, and children,
on foot. At the instant th' r were discovered, they set up
the usual yell of defiance, and rushed down like a moun-
tain torrent into the valley, flourishing their weapons, and
fluttering their gay blankets and feathers in the wind.
There was no doubt as to the warlike intentions of the
Blackfeet in general, nor was it for a moment to be sup-
posed that any peaceable overture on their part meant
anything more than that they were not prepared to fight at
that particular juncture ; therefore let not the reader judge
too harshl}^ of an act which under ordinary circumstances
would have been infamous, in Indian fighting, every
man is his own leader, and the bravest take the front
rank. On this occasion there were two of Sublette's men,
one a half-breed Iroquois, the other a Flathead Indian,
who had wrongs of their own to avenge, and they never
let slip a chance of killing a Blackfoot. These two men
rode forth alone to meet the enemy^ as if to hold a "talk"
with the principal chief, who advanced to meet them,
bearing the pipe of peace. When the chief extended
his iiand, Antonio Godin, the half-breed, took it, but Q,t the
A BATTLE REINFORCEMENTS.
113
same moment lie ordered the Flathead to fire, and the
chief fell dead. The two trappers galloped back to camp,
Antoine bearing for a trophy the scarlet blanket of his
enemy.
This action made it impossible to postpone the battle,
as the dead chief had meant to do by peaceful overtures,
until the warriors of his nation came up. The Blackfeet
immediately betook themselves to a swamp formed by an
old beaver dam, and thickly overgrown with cotton -v,'ood
and willow, matted together with tough vines. On the
edge of this dismal covert the warriors skulked, and shot
with their guns and arrows, while in its very midst the
women emploj'^ed themselves in digging a trench and
throwing up a breastwork of logs, and whatever came to
hand. Such a defence as the thicket afforded was one not
easy to attack ; its unseen but certain dangers being suffi-
cient to appal the stoutest heart.
Meantime, an express had been sent off to inform Cap-
tain Sublette of the battle, and summon assistance. Sin-
clair and his free trappers, with Milton Sublette's small
company, were the only fighting men at hand. Mr. Wyeth,
knowing the inefficiency of his men in an Indian fight,
had them entrenched behind their packs, and there left
them to take care of themselves, but charged them not to
appear in open field. As for the fighting men, they sta-
tioned themselves in a ravine, where they could occasion-
ally pick off a Blackfoot, and waited for reinforcements.
Great was the astonishment of the Blackfeet, who be-
lieved they had only Milton Sublette's camp to fight, when
they beheld first one party of white men and then an-
other ; and not only whites, but Nez Perces and Flatheads
came galloping up the valley. If before it had been a
battle to destroy the whites, it was now a battle to defend
themselves. Previous to the arrival of Captain Sublette,
'1 'ijS
■1
114
DEATH OF SINCfAIK.
the opposing forces had kept up only a scattering fire, in
which nobody on the side of the trappers had been either
killed or wounded. But when the impetuous captain
arrived on the battle-field, he prepared for less guarded
warfare. Stripped as if for the prize-ring, and armed
cap-a-pie^ he hastened to the scene of action, accompanied
by his intimate friend and associate in business, Robert
Campbell.
At sight of the reinforcements, and their vigorous
movements, the Indians at the edge of the swamp fell
back within their fort. To dislodge them was a danger-
ous undertaking, but Captain Sublette was determined to
make the effort. Finding the trappers generally disin-
clined to enter the thicket, he set the example, together
with Campbell, and thus induced some of the free trap-
pers, with their leader, Sinclair, to emulate his action.
However, the others took courage at this, and advanced
near the swamp, firing at random at their invisible foe,
who, having the advantage of being able to see them, in-
flicted some wounds on the party.
The few white "braves" who had resolved to enter the
swamp, made their wills as they went, feeling that they
were upon perilous business. Sublette, Campbell, and
Sinclair succeeded in penetrating the thicket without
jilarming the enemy, and came at length to a more open
.s[)ace from whence they could get a view of the fort.
From this they learned that the women and children had
retired to the mountdns, and that the fort was a slight
affair, covered with buffalo robes and blankets to keep out
prying eyes. Moving slowly on, some slight accident
betrayed their vicinity, and the next moment a shot struck
Sinclair, wounding him mortally. He spoke to Campbell,
requesting to be taken to his brother. By this time some
of the men had come up, and he was given in charge to
SUBLETTE WOUNDED. — A FALSE ALARM.
115
be tal^en back to camp. Sublette then pressed forward,
and seeing an Indian looking through an aperture, aimed
at hini with fatal effect. No sooner had he done so, and
pointed out the opening ^jPCampbell, than he was struck
with a ball in the shoul(^^, which nearly prostrated him,
and turned him so faint that wmpbell took him in his
arms and carried him, assisted by Meek, out of the swamp.
At the same time one of the men received a wound in the
head. The battle was now carried on with spirit, although
from the difficulty of approaching the fort, the firing was
very irregular.
The mountaineers who followed Sublette, took up their
station in the woods on one side of the fort, and the Nejj
Perces, under Wyeth, on the opposite side, which acci-
dental arrangement, though it was fatal to many of the
Blackfeet in the fort, was also the occasion of loss to
themselves by the cross-fire. The whites being constantly
reinforced by fresh arrivals from the rendezvous, were
soon able to silence the guns of the enemy, but they were
not aljle to drive them from their fort, where they re-
mained silent and sullen after their ammunition was ex-
hausted.
Seeing that the women of the Nez Perces and Flat-
heads were gathering up sticks to set fire to their breast-
work of logs, an old chief proclaimed in a loud voice
from within, the startling intelligence that there were
four hundred lodges of his people close at hand, who
would soon be there to avenge their deaths, shonld the
whites choose to reduce them to ashes. This harangue,
delivered in the usual high-flo-wn style of Indian oratory,
either was not clearly understood, or was wrongly inter-
preted, and the impression got abroad that an attach was
being made on the great encampment. This intelligence
occasioned a diversion, and a division of forces ; for while
*f
.*«f(*ri'fn»| !
IIG
AN EMPTY FORT.
"4
a small party was left to watch tlie foi't, the rest galloped
in hot haste to the rescue of the m;aii camp. When they
arrived, they found it had been a lalse alarm, but it wab
too late to return that night, and the several camps re-
mained where they were until the next day.
Meantime the trappers loft to guard the fort remained
stationed within the wood all night, firmly believing they
had their enemy "corraled," as the horsemen of the
plains would say. On the return, in the morning, of their
comrades from the main camp, they advanced cautiously
up to the breastwork of logs, and behold ! not a buffalo
skin nor red blanket was to be seen ! Through the crevi-
ces among the logs was seen an empty ^jrt. On making
this discovery there was much chagrin among the white
trappers, and much lamentation among the Indian allies,
who had abandoned the burning of the fort expressly to
save for themselves the fine blankets and other goods of
their hereditary foes. ^^^
From the reluctance displayed by the trappers, in the
beginning of the battle, to engage with the Indians while
under cover of the woods, it must not be inferred that
they were lacking in courage. They were too well in-
formed in Indian modes of warfare to venture recklessly
into the den of death, which a savage ambush was quite
sure to bo. The very result which attended the impetu-
osity of their leaders, in the death of Sinclair and the
wounding of Captain Sublette, proved them not over
cautious.
On entering the fort, the dead bodies of ten Blackfeet
were found, besides others dead outside the fort, and over
thirty horses, some of which were recognized as those
stolen from Sublette's night camp on the other side of
the mountains, besides those abandoned by Fitzpatrick
Doubtless the rascals had followed his trail to Pierre's
THE BLACKFOOT WOMAN.
117
Hole, not thinking, however, to come upon so large a
camp as they found at last. The savage garrison which
had so cunningly contrived to elude the guard set upon
them, carried off some of their wounded, and, perhaps, also
some of their dead ; for they acknowledged afterwards a
much larger loss than appeared at the time. Besides Sin-
clair, there were five other white men killed, one half-
breed, and seven Nez Perces. About the same number
of whites and their Indian allies were wounded.
An instance of female devotion is recorded by Bonne-
ville's liistorian as having occurred at this battle. On the
morning following it, as the whites were exploring the
tliickets about the fort, they discovered a Blackfoot
woman leaning silent and motionless against a tree. Ac-
cording to Mr. Irving, whose fine feeling for the sex
would incline him to put faith in this bit of romance,
'■ their surprise at her lingering here alone, to fall into the
hands of her enemies, was dispelled when they saw the
corpse of a warrior at her feet. Either she was so lost in
grief as not to perceive their approach, or a proud spirit
kept her silent and motionless. The Indians set up a yell
on discovering her, and before the trappers could inter-
fere, her mangled body fell upon the corpse which she had
refused to abandon." This version is true in the main in-
cidents, but untrue in the sentiment. The woman's leg
had been broken by a ball, and she was unable to move
from the spot where she leaned. When the trappers ap-
proached her, she stretched out her hands supplicatingly,
crying out in a wailing voice, " kill me ! kill me ! 0 white
men, kill me ! " — but this the trappers had no disposition
to do. While she was entreating them, and they refusing,
a ball from some vengeful Nez Perce or Flathead put an
end to her sufferings.
Still remembering the threats of the Blackfoot chief,
«
1 f
I I
"'f^^rnm^r-
US
AN EXPECTED BATTLE.
that four hundred lodges of liis brethren were advancing
on the valley, all the com panics returned to rendezvous,
and remained for several days, to see whether an attack
should take place. But if there had ever jjeen any such
intention on the part of the Blackfoot nation, the timely
lesson bestowed on their advance guard had warned them
to quit the neighborhood of the whites.
Captain Sublette's wound was dressed by Mr. Wyeth's
physician, and although it hindered his departure for St.
Louis for some time, it did not prevent his making his
usual journey later in the season. It was as well, per-
haps, that he did not set out earlier, for of a party of
seven who started for St. Louis a few days after the battle,
three were killed in Jackson's Hole, where they fell in
with the four hundred wai'riors with whom the Blackfoot
chief threatened the whites at the battle of Pierre's Hole.
From the story of the four survivors who escaped and re-
turned to camp, there could no longer be any doubt that
the big village of the Blackfeet had actually been upon
the trail of Capt. Sublette, expecting an easy victory
when they should overtake hi in. How they were disap
pointed by the reception met with by the advance camp,
has already been related.
MARCH TO THE HUMBOLDT.
119
CHAPTER VII.
1832. On the 23d of July, Milton Sublette's brigade
and the company of Mr. Wyeth again sot out for the
southwest, and met no more serious interruptions while
tliey traveled in company. On the head-waters of the
Humboldt River they separated, Wyeth proceeding north
to the Columbia, and Sublette continuing on into a coun-
try hitherto untraversed by American trappers.
It was the custom of a camp on the move to depend
chiefly on the men employed as hunters to supply them
with game, the sole support of the mountaineers. When
this failed, the stock on hand was soon exhausted, and the
men reduced to famine. This was what happened to
Sublette's company in the country where they now found
themselves, between the Owyhee and Humboldt Rivers.
Owing to the arid and barren nature of these plains, the
largest game to be found was the beaver, whose flesh
proved to be poisonous, from the creature having eaten
of the wild parsnip in the absence of its favorite food.
The men were made ill by eating of beaver flesh, and the
horses were greatly reduced from the scarcity of grass
and the entire absence of the cotton-wood.
In this plight Sublette found himself, and finally re-
solved to turn north, in the hope of coming upon some
better and more hospitable country. The sufferings of
the men now became terrible, both from hunger and
thirst. In the effort to appease the former, everything
was eaten that could be eaten, and many things at which
i il
i
i
' I 'I
I
120
TP^RUIBLE SUFFERING FROM HUNGER AND THIRST.
the woll-fed man would .sicken with disgust. " I have,"
says Joe Meek, "held my hands in an ant-hill until they
were covered with the ants, then greedily licked them off,
[ have taken the soles (jfV my moccasins, crisped them in
the fire, and eaten them. In our extremity, the largo
black crickets which are found in this country were con
sidered game. We used to take a kettle of hot water,
catch the crickets and throw them in, and when they
stopped kicking, eat them. That was not what we called
cant fid'up ko hanch^ (good meat, my friend), but it kept
us alive." '''^
Equally abhorrent exjiedients were resorted to in order
to quench thirst, some of which would not bear mention.
In this conditicm, and exposed to the burning suns and
the dry air of the desert, the men now so nearly exhausted
began to prey upon their almost equally exhausted ani-
mals. At night when they made their camp, by mutual
consent a mule was bled, and a soup made from its blood.
About a pint was usually taken, when two or three would
mess together upon this reviving, but scanty and not very
palatable dish. But this mode of subsistence could not
be long depended on, as the poor mules could ill alFord to
lose blood in their famishing state ; nor could the men af-
ford to lose their mules where there was a chance of life:
therefore hungry as they were, the men were cautious in
this matter ; and it genera, ly caused a quarrel when a man's
mule was selected for bleeding by the others,
A few times a mule had been sacrificed to obtain meat;
and in this case the poorest one was always selected, so h.'^
to economise the chances for life for the whole band. In
this extremity, after four days of almost total abstinence
and several weeks of famine, the company reached the
Snake River, about fifty miles above the fishing falls, where
it boils and dashes over the rocks, forming very strong
t
THE COUNTRY OF TIIK DlfJGEUH.
121
nipids. Here the company camped, rejoiced at the sight
(if the ])ure mountain water, but still in want of food.
During the inarch a horse's back had become sore from
some cause; probal)ly, his rider thought, because the sad-
dle did not set well; and, although that particular animal
was selected to be sacriliced on the morrow, as one that
could best be spared, he set about taking the stulling out
of his saddle and re-arranging the padding. While en-
gaged in this considerate labor, he uttered a cry of delight
and held u}) to view a large brass pin, which had acciden-
tally got into the stuffing, when the saddle was nuide, and
had been the cause of all the mischief to his horse.
The same thought struck all who saw the pin: it was
soon converted into a fish-hook, a line was spun from horse-
hair, and in a short time there were trout enough caught
to furnish them a hearty and a most delicious repast. "In
the morning," says Meek, "we went on our way rejoicing;"
each man with the "five fishes" tied to his saddle, if with-
out any "loaves." This was the end of their severest suf-
fering, as they had now reached a country where absolute
starvation was not the normal condition of the inhabitants;
and which was growing more and more bountiful, as they
neared the Rocky Mountains, where they at length joined
camp, not having made a very profitable expedition.
It may seem incredible to the reader that any country
so poor as that in which our trappers starved could have
native inhabitants. Yet such was the fact ; and the peo-
ple who lived in and who still inhabit this barren waste,
were called Diggers^ from their mode of obtaining their
food — a few edible roots growing in low grounds, or marshy
places. When these fail them they subsist as did our trap-
pers, by hunting crickets and field mice. .-... ". . -.. !,.-.:
Nothing can be more abject than the appearance of the
Digger Indian, in the faU, as he roams about, without food
122
SOMi: ACCOUNT OF TUB DIOOKKS
and witliout woapoiiH, save porliaps a bow and arrows,
with his (>ye8 fixed upon the ground, looi<ing lor crickets!
So des[)ical)le Is he, tliat lie has neitiiHr enemies nor friends;
and tlie neighboring tribes do not condescend to notice his
existence, unless indeed he should come in their way,
when they would not think it nu)re than a mirthful act to
put an end to his miserable existence. And so it must be
confessed the trappers regarded him. When Sublette's
party first struck the Humboldt, Wyeth's being still with
tliem, Joe Meek one day shot a Digger who was prowling
about a stream where his traps were set.
" Why did you shoot him V " asked Wyeth.
"To keep him from stealing traps."
"Had he stolen any?"
" No : but he looked as if lie ivas going to ! "
This recklessness of life very properly distressed the just
minded New Englander. Yet it was hard for the trappers
to draw lines of distinction so nice as his. If a tribe wa.s
not known to be friendly, it was a rule of necessity to con
sider it unfriendly. The abjectnoss and cowardice of the
Diggers was tl:"fc (Vuit of their own helpless condition. That
they had the savage instinct, held in check only by cir-
cumstances, '^ -t:-. demonstrated about the same time that
Meek shot one, by his being pursued by four of them when
out trapping alone, and only escaping at last by the assis-
tance of one of his comrades who came to the rescue.
They could not fight, like the Crows and Blackfeet, but
they could steal and murder, when they had a safe oppor
tunity.
It would be an interesting study, no doubt, to the phi-
lanthropist, to ascertain in how great a degree the habits,
manners, and morals of a people are governed by their
resources, especially by the f^aality and quantity of their
COMl'AltlrtOX OF TUIHKH.
123
diet. Hut wlion diet and cliiimte are both taken into con-
sideration, the result is strikin*^.
The cliaracter of the nhickf'eot wlio inhal)itod the pfood
hijiitiii^^ fjironiuls on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains,
is already pretty well ^iven. They wore tall, sinewy, well-
iiia(k! I'ellows; p^ood horsemen, and f^ood li;:]^litcMS, tiiough
iiudinod to marauding iind murdering. They dressed com-
fortably and even hantlsomely, as dress goes amongst sava-
ges, and altogether were more to be feared tlian despised.
The rr<>ws resembled the Blackfeet, whose enemies they
were, in all tlie before-mentioned traits, but were if pos-
sible, even nu)re ])redatory in their habits. Unlike the
Mla(;kfeet, however, they were not the enemies of all
in.'uikind ; and even were disposed to cultivate some friend-
liness with the white traders and trappers, in order, as
they acknowledged, to strengthen their own hands
against the Blackfeet. They too inhabited a good coun-
try, full of game, and had horses in abundance. These
were the mountain tribes, •
(Comparing these with the coast tribes, there was a strik-
ing difference. The natives of the Columbia were not a
t;dl and robust people, like those east of the Rocky Moun-
tains, who lived by hunting. Their height rarely exceeded
five feet six inches ; their forms were good, rather inclin-
ing to fatness, their faces round, features coarse, but
complexion light, and their eyes large and intelligent.
The custom of flattening their heads in infancy gave them
a grotesque and unnatural appearance, otherwise they
could not be called ill-looking. On the first advent of
white men among them, they were accustomed to go en-
tirely naked, except in winter, when a panther skin, or a
mantle of other skins sewed together, served to protect
them from the cold: or if the weather was rainy, as it
generally was in that milder climate, a long mantle of rush
124
THE INDIANS OF THE LOWER COLUMBIA.
tA'^ .
mats, like the toga of the ancient Romans, took the place
of that made of skins. To this was added a conical hat,
woven of fibrous roots, and gaily painted.
For defensive armor they were provided with a tunic
of elkskin double, descending to the ankles, with holes in
it for the arms, and quite impenetrable to arrows. A hel-
met of similar ma.,orial covered ib^ head, rendering them
like Achilles, invulnerable except in the heels. In this
secure r'ress they went to battle in their canoes, notice
being first given to the enemy of the intended attack.
Their battles might therefore be termed compound duels,
in which each party observed great punctiliousness and
decorum. Painted and armor-encased, the warriors in two
flotillas of canoes were rowed to the battle ground by
their women, when the battle raged furiously for some
time ; not, however, doing any great harm to either side.
If any one chanced to be killed, that side considered itself
beaten, ard retired ^^'om the conflict to m.ourn over and
bury the estimable and departed brave. If the case was a
stubborn one, requiring several days fighting, the oppo-
nents encamped near each other, keeping up a confusion
of cries, taunts, menaces, and raillery, during the whole
night ; after which they resumed the conflict, and contin-
ued it until one was beaten. If a village was to be at-
tacked, notice Ijeing received, thv-; wo^rien and children
were removed : and if the village was beaten they made
presents to their conquerors. Such v,'"ere the decorous
habits of the warriors of the lower Columbia.
These were the people who lived almost exclusively by
fishing, and whose climate was a mild and moist one. Fish-
ing, in which both sexes engaged about equally, was an im-
portant accomplishment, since it was by fish they lived in
this world ; and by being good fishermen that they had hopes
of the next one. The houses in which they lived, instead
THEIR HABITS, CUSTOMS AND DRESS.
125
of being lodges made of bufifalo skins, were of a large
size and very well constructed, being made out of cedar
planks. An excavation was first made in the earth two or
three feet deep, probably to secure greater warmth in
winter. A double row of cedar posts was then planted
firmly all round the excavation, and between these the
planks were laid, or, sometimes cedar bark, so overlapped
as to exclude the rain and wind. The ridge-pole of the
roof Avas supported on a row of taller posts, passing
through the centre of the buildin^', and notched to receive
it. The rafters were then covered with planks or bark,
fastened d^wn with ropes mc.de of the fibre of the cedar
bark. A house made in this manner, and often a hundred
feet long by thirty or forty wide, accommodated several
families, who each had their separate entrance and fire-
place ; the entrance being by a low oval-shaped door, and
a flight of steps. - ,<
The canoes of these people were each cut out of a single
log of cedar ; and were often thirty feet long and five
wide at midships. They were gaily painted, and their
shape was handsome, with a very long bow so constructed
as to cut the surf in landing with the greatest ease, or the
more readily to go through a rough sea. The oars were
about five feet long, and bent in the shape of a crescent ;
which shape enabled them to draw them edgewise through
the water with little or no noise
an important quality in hunting th
always caught sleeping on the rocks.
The single instrument which sufT'ced to build canoes
and houses was the chisel ; generally being a piece of old
iron obtained from some vessel and fixed in a wooden
handle. A stone mallet aided them in using the chisel ;
and with this simple ''kit" of tools they contrived to
manufacture plates, bowls, carved oars, and many orna-
mental thinffa ' ^ -'
this noiselessness being
sea otter, which is
126
INDIAN COMMERCE.
Like the men of all savage nations, they made slaves of
their captives, and their women. The dress of the latter
consisted merely of a short petticoat, manufactured from
the fibre of the cedar bark, previously soaked and pre-
pared. This material was worked into a fringe, attached
to a girdle, and only long enough to reach the middle of
the thigh. When the season required it, they added a
mantle of skins. Their bodies were anointoc"' Avi ' ^ish oil,
and sometimes painted with red ochre in inj .' >f the
men. For ornaments they wore st"!ngs of glass beads,
and also of a white shell found on the northern coast, called
haiqua. Such were the ChinooJcs^ who lived upon the
coast.
Farther up the river, on the eastern side of the Cascade
range of mountains, a people lived, the same, yet different
from the Chinooks. They resembled them in form, fea-
tures, and manner of getting a living. But they were
more warlike and more enterprising ; they even had some
notions of commerce, being traders between the coa
Indians and those to the east of them. They too v t: •
great fishermen, but used the net instead of fishing '*■■
boats. Great scaffoldings were erect "d every year at the
narrows of the Columbia, known as the Dalles, where, as
the salmon passed i;p the river in the spring, in incredible
numbers, they were caught and dried. After drying, the
fish were then pounded fine between two stones, pressed
tightly into packages or bales of about ? , >: ' Ired pounds,
covered with matting, and corded up for transporij :»»
The bales were then placed in storehouses built to re.( ^'"
them, where they awaited customers.
By and by there came from the ''oast other Indians,
with different varieties of fish, lo ejvch; »'re for the salmon
in the Wish-ram warehouses. And by end by there came
from the plains to the eastward, others who had horses,
'■^K
5 'iS lied 01
'■'■'■ lay be
i! '
THE INDIANS OF THE PLAINS.
127
i •!■ i
laves of
le latter
ed from
.nd pre-
ittached
iddle of
added a
'Ish oil,
>'( the
3 beads,
st, called
pon the
Cascade
different
orm, fea-
ley were
lad some
he coa
too vt •
shiii^ •:
ar at the
v^here, as
icredible
yring, the
pressed
pounds,
lori .1 ■ ' yp
Indians,
e salmon
ere came
horses,
camiis-root, bear-grass, fur rones, and whatever constituted
the wealth of the mountains and plains, to exchange for
the rich and nutritious salmon of the Columbia. These
Wish-ram Indians were sharp traders, and usually made
something by their exchanges; so that they grew rich
and insolent, and it was dangerous for the unwary
stranger to pass their way. Of all the tribes of the Co-
hnnbia, they perpetrated the most outrages upon their
neighbors, the passi^-.g traveler, and the stranger within
their gates.
Still farther to the east, on the great grassy plains, wa-
tered by beautiful streams, coming down from the moun-
tains, lived the Cayuses, Yakimas, Nez Perces, Wallah-
Wallahs, and Flatheads ; as different in thrir appearance
and habits as their different modes of living would nat-
urally make them. Instead of having many canoes, they
had many horses ; and in place of drawing the fishing net,
or trolling lazily along with hook and line, or spearing
fish from a canoe, they rode pell-mell to the chase, or sal-
lied out to battle with the hostile Blackfeet, whose country
lay between them and the good hunting-grounds, where
he great herds of buffalo were. Being Nimrods by na-
ture, they were dressed in complete suits of skins, instead
of going naked, like their biethren \a the lower country.
Being wandering nnd pastoral in their habits, they lived
in loc'ges, which could Le planted every night and raised
every morning. ..-,.,.- ., .,
TYSir women, too, were good riders, and comfortably
clad in dressed skins, kept white with chalk. So wealthy
wore some of the chiefs that they could count their fifteen
hundred head of horses grazing on their graGsy uplands.
Horse-racing was their delight, and betting on them their
besetting vice. For bridles they used horse-hair cords,
attached around the animal's mouth. This was sufl&cient
rii:
H
WTf^
128
THE HORSES OF THE PLAINS.
rj.
to check him, and by laying a hand on this side or that of
the horse's neck, the rider could wheel him in either direc-
tion. The simple and easy-fitting saddle was a stuffed
deer-skin, Avith stirrups of Avood, resembling in shape those
used by the Mexicans, and covered with deer-skin sewed
• a wet, so as to tighten in drying. The saddles of the
wc were furnished with a pair of deer's antlers for the
pomix^ol.
In many things their customs and accoutrements resem-
bled those of the Mexicans, from whom, no doubt, they
were borrowed. Like the Mexican, they threw the lasso
to catch the wild horse. Their horses, too, were of Mex-
ican stock, and many of them bore the brand of that
country, having been obtained in some of their not infre-
quent journeys into California and New Mexico.
As all the wild horses of America are said to have
spnmg from a small band, turned loose upon the plains
by Cortez, it would be interesting to know at what time
they came to be used by the northern Indians, or whether
the horse and the Indian did not emigrate together. If the
horse came to the Indian, great must have been the change
effected by the advent of this new element in the savage's
life. It is impossible to conceive, however, that the In-
dian ever could have lived on these immense plains, barren
of everything but wild grass, without his horse. With
him he does well enough, for he not only "lives on horse-
back," by which means he can quickly reach a country
aboundhig in game, but he literally hves on horse-fleeh,
when other game is scarce.
Curious as the fact may seem, the Indians at the mouth
of the Columbia and those of New Mexico speak languages
similar in construction to that of the Aztecs; and from
this fact, and the others before mentioned, it may be very
fairly inferred that difference of circuin stances and locali-
ties have made of the different tribes what they are.
THE INDIAN S MORAL NATURE.
129
As to the Indian's moral nature, that is pretty much alike
everywhere ; and with some rare exceptions, the rarest of
wliich is, perhaps, the Flathead and Nez Perces nations,
all are cruel, thieving, and treacherous. The Indian gos-
pel is literally the "gospel of blood"; an "eye for an
eye, and a tooth for a tooth." Vengeance is as much a
commandment to him as any part of the decalogue is to
the Christian. But we have digressed far from our narra-
tive; and as it will be necessary to refer to the subject of
the moral code of savages further on in our narrative, we
leave it for the present.
After the incident of the pin and the fishes, Sublette's
party kept on to the north, coursing along up Payette's
River to Payette Lake, where he camped, and the men
went out trapping. A party of four, cc nsisting of Meek,
Antoine Goclin, Louis Leaugar, and Small, proceeded to the
north as far as the Salmon river and beyond, to the head
of one of its tributaries, where the present city of Flor-
ence is located. While camped in this region, three of
the men went out one day to look for their horses, which
had strayed away, or been stolen by the Indians. During
their absence. Meek, who remained in camp, had killed a
fine fot deer, and was cooking a portion of it, when he
saw a band of about a hundred Indians approaching, and
so near were they that flight was almost certainly useless ;
yet as a hundred against one was very great odds, and
running away from them would not increase their number,
while it gave him something to do in his own defence, he
took to his heels and ran as only a mountain-man can run.
Instead, however, of pursuing him, the practical-minded
braves set about finishing his cooking for him, and soon
had the whole deer roasting before the fire. . _ . /
This procedure provoked the gastronomic ire of our
trapper, and after watching them for some time from his
\i'H
> I 'I
( ' ^4 . :
n; h
m
It -
'y/imtf:
130
A TRAP SET FOR A RIVAL.
hiding-place, lie determined to return and share the feast.
On reaching camp again, and introducing hunself to his
not over -scrupulous visitors, he found they were from the
Nez Perces tribe inhabiting that region, who, having been
so rude as to devour his stock of provisions, invited him
to accompany them to their village, not a great way off,
where they would make some return for his involvntary
hospitality. This he did, and there found his three com-
rades and all their horses. While still visiting at the Nez
Perces village, they were joined by the remaining portion
of Sublette's command, when the whole company started
south again. Passing Payette's lake to the east, traversing
the Boise Basin, going to the head-waters of that river,
thence to the Malade, thence to Godin's river, and finally
to the forks of the Salmon, where they found the main
camp. Captain Bonneville, of whose three years wander-
ings in the wilderness Mr. Irving has given a full and in-
teresting account, was encamped in the same neighbor-
hood, and had built there a small lort or trading-house,
and finally wintered in the neighborhood.
An exchange of men now took place, and Meek went
east of the mountains under Fitzpatrick and Bridger.
When these famous leaders had first set out for the sum-
mer hunt, after the battle of Pierre's Hole, their course
had been to the head-waters of the Missouri, to the Yeh
lowstone lake, and the forks of the Missouri, some of the
best beaver grounds known to them. But finding their
steps dogged by the American Fur Company, and not
wishing to be made use of as pilots by their rivals, they
had flitted about for a time like an Arab camp, in the en-
deavor to blind them, and finally returned to the west side
of the mountains, where JVTeek fell in with them.
Exasperated by the perseverance of the American
Company, they had come to the determination of leading
A CRUEL DEVICE.
131
them a march which should tiro them of the practice of
k'eeping at their heels. They therefore planned an expe-
dition, from which they expected no other profit than that
of hakiiig off their rivals. Taking no pains to conceal
then- expedition, they rather held out the bait to the
American Company, who, unsuspicious of their purpose,
took it readily enough. They led them along across the
mountains, and on to the head-waters of the Missouri.
Here, packing up their traps, they tarried not for beaver,
nor even tried to avoid the Blackfeet, but pushed right
ahead, into the very heart of their country, keeping away
from any part of it where beaver might be found, and
going away on beyond, to the elevated plains, quite des-
titute of that small but dcbirable game, but followed
through it by their rivals.
However justifiable on the part of trade this move-
ment of the Rocky Mountain Company might have been,
it was a cruel device as concerned the inexperienced lead-
ers of the other company, one of whom lost his life in
consequence. Not knowing of their danger, they only
discovered their situation in the midst of Blackfeet,
after discovering the ruse that had been played upon
them. They then halted, and being determined to find
beaver, divided their forces and set out in opposite direc-
tions for that purpose. Unhappily, Major Vanderburg
took the worst possible direction for a small party to take,
and had not traveled far when his scouts came upon the
still smoking camp-fires of a band of Indians who were
returning from a buffalo hunt. From the "signs" left
behind them, the scout judged that they had become
aware of the near neighborhood of white men, and from
their having stolen off, he judged that they were only
gone for others of their nation, or to prepare for war.
But Vanderburg, with the fool-hardiness of one not
m
11
132
AN AMBUSH — DEATH OF VAjnDEIIBURG.
"up to Blackfect," determined to ascertain for himself
wluit there was to fear ; and taking with him half a score
of his followers, put himself upon their trail, galloping
hard after them, until, in his rashness, he found himself
being led through a dark and deep defile, rendered darker
and gloomier by overhanging trees. In the midst of this
dismal place, just where an ambush might have been ex-
pected, he was attacked by a horde of savages, who
rushed upon his little party with whoops and frantic ges-
tures, intended not only to appal the riders, but to frighten
their horses, and thus make surer their bloody butchery.
It was but the work of a few minutes to consummate their
demoniac purpose. Yanderburg's horse was shot down
at once, falling on his rider, whom the Indians quickly
dispatched. One or two of the men were instantly toma-
hawked, and the others wounded while making their es-
cape to camp. The remainder of Yanderburg's company,
on learning the fate of their leader, whose place there
was no one to fill, immediately raised camp and fled with
all haste to- the encampment of the Pends Oreille Indians
for assistance. Here they waited, while those Indians, a
friendly tribe, made an eiFort to recover the body of their
unfortunate leader ; but the remains were never recovered,
probably having first been fiendishly mutilated, and then
left to the wolves.
Fitzpatrick and Bridger, finding they were no longer
pursued by their rivals, as the season advanced began to
retrace their steps toward the good trapping grounds.
Being used to Indian wiles and Blackfeet mn' 'udings and
ambushes, they traveled in close columns, and never
camped or turned out their horses to feed, without the
greatest caution.
Morning and evening scouts were sent
out to beat up every thicket or ravine that seemed to
offer concealment to a foe, and the horizon was searched
AN AFFRAY — THE WOMAN INTERPRETER.
133
in every (lircction for signs of an Indian attack. The
complete salbty of the camp being settled almost beyond
a peradventure, the horses were turned loose, though
never left unguarded.
It was not likely, however, that the camp should pass
through the Blackfoot country without any encounters
with that nation. When it had reached the head-waters
of the Missouri, on the return march, a party of trappers,
including Meek, disco- 'red a small band of Indians in a
bend of the lake, and thinking the opportunity for sport
a good one, commenced firing on them. The Indians,
who were without guns, took to the lake for refuge, while
the trappers entertained themselves with the rare amuse-
ment of keeping them in the water, by shooting at them
occasionally. But it chanced that these were only a few
stragglers from th^ main Blackfoot camp, which soon
came up and put an end to the sport by putting f.hc trap-
pers to flight in their turn. The trappers fled to camp,
the Indians pursuing, until the latter discovered that they
had been led almost into the large camp of the whites.
This occasioned a halt, the Blackfeet not caring to engage
with superior numbers.
In the p'tuse which ensued, one of the chiefs came out
into th-^ open space, bearing the peace pipe, and Bridger
also advanced to meet him, but carrying his gun across
the pommel of his saddle. He was accompanied by a
young Blackfoot woman, wife of a Mexican in his service,
as interpreter. The chief extended his hand in token of
amity ; but at that moment Bridger saw a movement of
the chiefs, which he took to mean treachery, and cocked
his rifle. But the lock had no sooner clicked than the
chief, a large and powerful man, seized the gun and
turned the muzzle downward, when the contents were
discharged into the earth. With another dexterous move-
134
BRAVERY OF HEIt HUSBAND — HAPPY FINALE,
ment ho wrested it from Bi-idj^er's hand, and struck him
with it, i'eiliii<^ liim to the ground. In an instant all was
confusion. The noise of whoops, yells, of fire-arms, and
of running hither and thither, gathered like a tempest.
At the lirst burst of this demoniac blast, the horse of the
interpreter became frightened, and, by a sudden move-
ment, unhorsed her, wheeling and running back to camp.
In the melee which now ensued, the woman was carried
off by the Blackfeet, and Bridger was wounded twice in
the back with arrows. A chance medley fight now ensued,
continuing until night put a period to the contest. So
well matched were the opposing forces, that each fought
with caution firing from the cover of thickets and from
'O
behind rocks, neither side doing much execution. The
loss on the part of the Blackfeet was nine warriors, and
on that of the whites, three men and six horses.
As for the young Blackfoot woman, whose people re-
tained her a prisoner, her lamentations and struggles to
escape and return to her husband and child so wrought
upon the young Mexican, who was the pained witness of
her grief, that he took the babe in his arms, and galloped
with it into the heart of the Blackfoot camp, to place it
in the arms of the distracted mother. This daring act,
which all who witnessed believed would cause his death,
so excited the admiration of the Blackfoot chief, that he
gave him permission to return, unharmed, to his own
camp. Encouraged by this clemency, Loretta begged to
have his wife restored to him, relating how he had res-
cued her, a prisoner, from the Crows, who would certainly
have tortured her to death. The wife added her entreat-
ies to his, but the chief sternly bade him depart, and as
sternly reminded the Blackfoot girl' that she belonged to
his tribe, and could not go with his enemies. Loretta
THE MOUNTAIN LAMB AND HER CHH.D.
135
iged to
joretta
was therefore compelled to abandon his wife and child,
and return to camp.
It is, however, gratifying to know that so true an in-
stance of aOection in savage life was linully rinvarded ;
and that when the two rival fur companies united, as they
(hd in the following year, Loretta was p(Mmitted to go
to the American Company's fort on the Missouri, in the
Blackfoot country, where he was employed as interpreter,
assisted by his Blackfoot wife.
Such were some of the incidents that signalized this
campaign in the wilderness, where two equally persistent
rivals were trying to outwit one another. Subse(]uently,
when several years of rivalry had somewhat exiiausted
both, the Rocky Mountain and American companies con-
solidated, using all their strategy thereafter against the
Hudson's Bay Company, and any new rival that chanced
to enter their hunting grounds.
After the fight above described, the Blackfcet drew off
in the night, showing no disposition to try their skill next
day against such experienced Indian fighters as Bridger's
brigade had shown themselves. The company continued
in the Missouri country, trapping and taking many beaver,
until it reached the Beaver Head Valley, on the head-
waters of the Jefferson fork of the Missouri. 'ir;e the
lateness of the season compelled a return to winter-quar-
ters, and by Christmas all the wanderers were gathered
into camp at the forks of the Snake River.
1833. In the latter part of January it became neces-
sary to move to the junction of the Portneuf to subsist
the animals. The main body of the camp had gone on
in advance, while some few, with pack horses, or women
with children, were scattered along the trail. Meek, with
five others, had been left behind to gather up some horses
that had strayed. When about a half day's journey from
'f
I ••
136
INTENSE COLU — NOUTllEUN LIUIllU
camp, ho overtook ITmcNfuclm, the Mountain Lamb, now
the wife of Milton Sublette, with her child, on horseback.
The weather was terribly cuhl, and seeming to grow
cohler. The naked plains a Horded no slielter from the
piercing winds, and the air I'airly gUttered with frost,
Poor Umentueken was freezing, but more troubled about
her babe than herself The camp was far ahead, with all
the extra blankets, and the prospect was imminent that
they would jjcrish. Our gallant trapper had thought
himself very cold until this moment, but what were his
sulferings com])ared to those of the Mountain Lamb and
her little Laml)kin'? Without an instant's 1 itatiou, he
divested himself of his blanket capote, whic wrappedi
rourd the mother and child, and urged her to hasteu to
camp. For himself, he could not hasten, as he had the
horses in charge, but all that fearful afternoon rode naked
above the waist, exposed to the wind, and the line, dry,
icy hail, which filled the air as with diamond needles, to
pierce the skin ; and, probably, to the fact that the hail
was so stinging, was owing the fact that his blood did not
couQ-eal.
O
" 0 what a day was that! "said Meek to the writer;
" why, the air war thick with fine, sharp hail, and the sun
shining, too ! not one sun only, but three suns — there
were three suns ! And when night came on, the northern
lights blazed up the sky ! It was the most beautiful sight
I ever saw. That is the country for northern lights! "
When some surprise was expressed that he should have
been obliged to expose his naked skin to the weather, in
order to save Umentueken — " In the mountains," he an-
swered, "we do not have many garments. Buckskin
breeches, a blanket capote, and a beaver skin cap makes
up our rig." .^ , ,. .; ;,;r,- , :.:^ev:r. 55 '
SCARCITY OF FUEL — TUREATENKU UV FAMINE.
U7
" You do not ncod a liumdress, tlicu V Hut with such
dotliiiig how could you keep f'roc of vuriuiu?"
"We didu't ulwiiys do tluit. l)o you want to know
lioW we got rid of lico iu the niountaius V Wo just took
otV our ch)thes and kid thoiu ou an ant-hill, and you
oiif^'lit to see how the ants would carry oU' the lice ! "
Hut to return to our hero, frozen, or nearly ko. When
he reached camp at night, so desperate was his condition
that the men had to roll him and rub him in the snow for
some time before allowing him to a[)proach the lire. But
Uinentucken was saved, and he bee;' le heroic in her eyes.
Whether it was the glory acquired by the gallant act just
' recorded, or whether our hero had now arrived at an age
when the tender jiassion has strongest sway, the writer is
iuii)rej)ared to allirm : for your mountain-man is shy of
revealing his past gallantries ; but from this time on, there
arc evidences of considerable susceptibility to the charms
of the dusky beauties of the mountains and the plains.
The cold of this winter was very severe, insomuch that
men and mules were frozen to death. " The frost," says
Meek, "used to hang from the roofs of our lodges in the
morning, on first waking, in skeins two feet long, and our
blankets and whiskers were white with it. But we trap-
pers laid still, and called the camp-keepers to make a lire,
and in our close lodges it was soon warm enough.
" The Indians suffered very much. Fuel war scarce on
the Snake River, and but little fire could be afibrded —
just sufficient for the children and their mothers to get
warm by, for the fire was fed only with buftiilo fat torn in
strips, which blazed up quickly and did not last long.
Many a time I have stood off, looking at the fire, but not
venturing to approach, when a chief would say, ' Are you
cold, my friend? come to the fire' — so kind are these
Nez Perces and Flatheads." .
■iiUJafi
.■■I ji]
'i*
\ lii
! f1
I 1
n
&
uti
1 i'l
^fmm
138
THE DEN OF GRIZZLYS PUTNAM OUTDONE.
The cold was not the only enemy in camp that winter,
but famine threatened them. The buffalo had been early
driven east of the mountains, and other game was scarce.
Sometimes a party of hunters were absent for days, even
weeks, without anoing more game than woukl subsist
themselves. As the trappers were all hunters in the win-
ter, it frequently happened that Meek and one or more
of his associates went on a hunt in company, for the bene-
fit of the camp, which was very hungry at times.
On one of these hunting expeditions that winter, the
party consisting of Meek, Hawkins, Doughty, and Anioiiie
Claymore, they had been out nearly a fortnight without
killing anything of consoquence., and had clambered up
the side of the m.oun tains on the frozen snow in hopes o?
finding some mountain sheep. As they traveled along
under a projecting ledge of rocks, they came to a place
where there were the impressions in the snow of enor-
mous grizzly bear feet. Close by was c;n opening in the
rocks, revealing a cavern, and to this the tracks ^n the
snow conducted. Evidcsntly the creature had conif oat
of its winter den, and made just one circuit back again.
At these signs of game the hunters hesitated — certain it
was there, but doubtful how to obtain it.
At length Doughty proposed to get up on the rocks
above the mouth of the cavern and shoot the bear as he
came out, if somebody would go in and dislodge him.
" I'm your man," answered Meek.
"And I too," said Claymore.
" 111 be if we are not as brave as you are," said
Hawkins, as he prepared to follow. ^ -i
On entering the cave, which was sixteen or twenty feet
square, and high enough to stand erect in, instead of one,
three bears were discovered. They were standing, the
largest one m the middle, with their eyes staring at th^
SECOND DANIELS.
139
\, winter,
en early
s scarce.
ys, even
[ subsist
the win-
or more
ho bene-
iter, the
Anioine
without
)ered up
hopes 0?
^d along
» a }.ltice
of enor-
13: in the
'S "n the
0111 P O'lt
;k again,
certain it
he rocks
ar as hp
him.
re
" said
Mity feet
1 of one,
iiig, the
g at th-J
entrance, but quite quiet, greeting the hunters only with
a low growl. Finding that there was a bear apiece to be
disposed of, the hunters kept close to the wall, and out of
the stream of light from the entrance, while they ad-
vanced a little way, cautiously, towards their game, which,
however, seemed to take no notice of them. After ma-
neuvering a few minutes to get nearer, Meek finally struck
the large bear on the head with his wiping-stick, when it
immediately moved oiF and ran out of the cave. As it
canK out, Doughty shot, but only wounded it, and it
came rushing back, snorting, and running around in a
circle, till the well directed shots from all three killed it
(111 the spot. Two more bears now remv^ined to be dis-
,'osed of. ■ ■ '
The successful shot put Hawkins in high spirits. He
began to hallo and laugh, dancing around, and with the
others striking the next largest bear to make him run out,
which he soon did, and was shot by Doughty. By this
time their guns were reloaded, the men growing more
and more elated, and Hawkins declaring they were "all
Daniels in the lions' den, and no mistake." This, and
similar expressions, he constantly vociferated, while they
drove out the third and smallest bear. As it reached the
cave's mouth, three simultaneous sho* ^ put an end to the
last one, when Hawkins' excitement knew no bounds.
" Daniel v/as a humbug," said he. "Daniel in the lions'
deu ! Of course it was winter, and the lions were sucking
their paws! Tvll me no more of Daniel's exploits. We
are as good Daniels as he ever dared to be. Hurrah fci-
these Daniels ! " With these expressions, and playing
many antics by way of rejoicing, the delighted Hawkina
tinally danced himself out of his *' lion's den," and set to
work with the others to prepare for a return to camp.
Sleds were soon constructed out of the branches of the
m
m
140
THE RETURN TO CAMP.
mountain willow, and on these light vehicles the fortunate
find of bear meat was soon conveyed to the hungry camp
in the plain below. And ever after this liingular exploit
of the party, Hawkins continued to aver, in language
more strong than elegant, that the Scripture Daniel was a
humbug compared to himself, and Meek, and Claymore.
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i
A VISIT FROM BLACKFEET.
141
CHAPTER VIII.
1833. l.f the spring the camp was visited by a party
of twenty Blackfeet, who drove off most of the horses ;
and among the stolen ones, Bridger's favorite race-horse,
Grohean, a Camanche steed of great speed and endurance.
To retake the horses, and if possible punish the thieves,
a company of the gamest trappers, thirty in number, i:i-
cluding Meek, and Kit Carson, who not long before had
joined the Rocky Mountain Com ny, was dispatched on
their trail. They had not traveled long before they came
up with the Blackfeet, but the horses weio nowhere to be
seen, having been secreted, after the manner of these thieves,
in some defile of the mountains, until the skirmish was
over which they knew well enough to anticipate. Accord-
ingly when the trappers came up, the wily savages .ere
prepared for them. Their numbers were inferior to that
of tlie whites ; accordingly they assumed an innocent and
peace-desiring air, while their head man advanced wil
inevitable peace-pipe, to have a "talk." But as their talk
was a tissue of lies, the trappers soon lost patience, and a
quarrel (piickly arose. The Indians betook themselves to
the defences which were selected beforehand, and a fight
began, which without giving to either party the victory
of arms, ended in the killing of two or three of the Black-
feet, and the wounding very severely of Kit Carson.
The firing ceased with nightfall; and when morning came,
as usual the Blackfeet were gone, and the trappers re-
turned to camp without their horses.
i H
I fimiv «"' '
142
THE GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS.
The lost animals wer'^ soon replaced by purchase from
the Nez Perces, and the company divided up into brigades,
some destined for the country east of the mountains, and
others for the south aid west. In this year Meek rose a
grade above the hired trapper, and became one of the
order denominated skin trappers. These, like the hired
trappers, depend upon the company to furnish them an
outfit ; but do not receive regular wages, as do the others.
They trap for themselves, only agreeing to sell their bea-
ver to the company which furnishes the outfit, and to no
other. In this capacity, our Joe, and a few associates,
hunted this spring, in the Snake River iind Salt Lake coun-
tries; returning as usual to the annual rendezvous, which
was appointed this summer to meet on Green River. Here
were the Rocky Mountain and American Companies; the
St. Louis Company, under Capt, Wm. Sublette and his
friend Campbell ; the usual camp of Indian allies ; and, a
%w miles distant, that of Captain Bonneville, ^n addition
to all these, was a small company belonging to Capt. Stuart,
an Englishman of noble family, who was traveling in the
far west only to gratify his own love of wild adventure,
and admiration of all that is grand and magnificent in na-
ture. With him was an artist named Miller, and several
servants; but he usually traveled in company with one or
another of the fur companies; thus enjoying their protec-
tion, and at the same time gaining a knowledge of the
habits of mountain life.
The rendezvous, at this time, furnished him a striking
example of some of the ways of mountain-men, least to
their honorable fame; and we fear we must confess that
our friend Joe Meek, who had been gathering laurels? as a
valiant hunter and trapper during the three or four years
of his apprenticeship, was also becoming fitted, by frequent
practice, to graduate in some of the vices of camp life,
it
A MAD WOLF.
143
especially the one of conviviality during rendezvous. Had
he not given his permission, we should not perhaps have
said what he says of himself, that he was at such times of-
ten very "powerful drunk."
During the indulgence of these excesses, while at this
rendezvous, there occurred one of those incidents of wil-
derness life which make the blood creep with horror.
Twelve of the men were bitten by a mad wolf, which hung
about the camp for two or three nights. Twc of these
were seized with madness in camp, sometime afterwards,
and ran off into the mountains, where they perished. One
was attacked by the paroxysm while on a hunt ; when,
throwing himself off his horse, he struggled and foamed
at the mouth, gnashing his teeth, and barking like a wolf.
Yet he retained consciousness enough to warn away his
companions, who hastened in search of assistance ; but
when they returned he was nowhere to be found. It was
thought that he was seen a day or two afterwards, but no
one could come up with him, and of course, he too, per-
ished. Another died on his journey to St. Louis ; and
several died at different times within the next two years.
At the time, however, immediately following the visit
of the wolf to camp, Captain Stuart was admonishing
Meek on the folly of his ways, telling him that the wolf
might easily have bitten him,- he was so drunk.
"It would have killed him, — sure, if it hadn't cured ^
him ! " said Meek, — alluding to the belief that alcohol is a^
remedy for the poison of hydrophobia.
AVhen sobriety returned, and work was once more to be
resumed. Meek returned with three or four associates to
the Salt Lake country, to trap on the numerous streams
that flow down from the mountains to the east of Salt Lake.
He had not been long in this region when he fell in on
Bear River with a company of BonneviUe's men, one huii«
10
i
144
JO WALKERS CALIFORNIA EXrEDITION.
dred and eighteen in number, under Jo Walker, who had
been sent to explore the Great Salt Lake, and the adja-
cent country ; to make charts, keep a journal, and, in short,
make a thorough discovery of all that region. Great ex-
pectations were cherished by the Captain concerning this
favorite expedition, which were, however, utterly blighted,
as his historian has recorded. The disappointment and loss
which Bonneville suffered from it, gave a tinge of preju-
dice to his delineations of the trapper's character. It was
true that they did not explore Salt Lake ; and that they
made a long and expensive journey, collecting but few
peltries. It is true also, that they caroused in true moun-
tain style, while among the Californians : but that the ex-
pedition was unprofitable was due chiefly to the difficul-
ties attending the exploration of a new country, a large
portion of which was desert and mountain.
But let us not anticipate. When Meek and his compan-
ions fell in with Jo Walker and his company, they resolved
to accompany the expedition ; for it was " a feather in a
man's cap," and made his services doubly valuable to have
become acquainted with a new country, and fitted himself
for a pilot.
On leaving Bear River, where the hunters took the pre-
caution to lay in a store of dried meat, the company passed
down on the west side of Salt Lake, and found themselves
in the Salt Lake desert, where their store, insufficiently
large, soon became reduced to almost nothing. Here was
experienced again the sufferings to which Meek had once
before been subjected in the Digger country, ^vhich, in
fact, bounded this desert on the northwest. " There was,"
says Bonneville, " neither tree, nor herbage, nor spring,
nor pool, nor running stream ; nothing but parched wastes
of sand, where horse and rider were in danger of perish-
ing." Many an emigrant has since confirmed the truth of
this account.
INSTINCT OF THE MULE.
145
It could not be expected that men would continue on
in such a country, in that direction which offered no change
for the better. Discerning at last a snowy range to the
northwest, they traveled in that direction ; pinched with
famine, and with tongues swollen out of their mouths with
thirst. They came at last to a small stream, into which
both men and animals plunged to quench their raging
The instinct of a mule on these desert journeys is some-
thing wonderful. We have heard it related by others be-
sides the monntain-men, that they will detect the neighbor-
hood of water long before their riders have discovered a
sign ; and setting up a gallop, when before they could
hardly walk, will dash into the water up to their necks,
drinking in the life-saving moisture through every pore of
the skin, while ' j prudently refrain from swallowing
much of it. If ;ie of a company has been off on a hunt
for water, and on finding it has let his mule drink, when
he returns to camp, the other animals will gather about
it, and snuff its breath, and even its body, betraying
the liveliest interest and envy. It i. easy to imagme that
in the case of Jo Walker's company, not only the animals
but the men were eager to steep themselves in the reviv-
ing waters of the first stream which they found on the
border of this weary desert.
It proved to be a tributary of Mary's or Ogden's River,
along which the company pursued their way, trapping as
they went, and living upon the flesh of the beaver. They
had now entered upon the same country inhabited by
Digger Indians, in which Milton Sublette's brigade had so
nearly perished with famine the previous year. It was
unexplored, and the natives were as curious about the
movements of their white visitors, as Indians always are
on the first appearance of civilised men.
T^pim"
146
MASSACRE OF DIGGERS AT MARYS RIVER.
i,^-'
They hung about the camps, offering no ollences by day,
but contriving to do a great deal of thieving during the
night-time. Each day, for several days, theii* numbers
increased, until the army which dogged the trappers by
day, and filched from them at night, numbered nearly a
thousand. They had no guns; but carried clubs, and
some bows and arrows. The trappers at length became
uneasy at this accumulation of force, even though they
had no fire-arms, for was it not this very style of people,
armed with clubs, that attacked Smith's party on the
Umpqua, and killed all but four ?
"We must kill a lot of them, boys," said Jo Walker.
"It will never do to let that crowd get into camp." Ac-
cordingly, as the Indians crowded round at a ford of Mary's
River, always a favorite time of attack with the savages,
Walker gave the cider to fire, and the whole company
poured a volley into the jostling crowd. The effect was
terrible. Seventy -five Diggers bit the dust; while the
others, seized with terror and horror at this new and instan-
taneous mode of death, fled howling away, the trappers
pursuing them until satisfied that they were too much
frightened to return. This seemed to Captain Bonneville,
when he came to hear of it, like an unnecessary and fero-
cious act. But Bonneville was not an experienced Inuian
fighter. His views of their character were much governed
by his knowledge of the Flatheads and Nez Perces ; and
also by the immunity from harm he enjoyed among the
Shoshonies on the Snake River, where the Hudson's Bay
Company had brought them into subjection, and where
even two men might travel in safety at the time of his
residence in that country.
Walker's company continued on down to the main or
Humboldt River, trapping as they went, both for the furs,
and for something to eat j and expecting to find that the
I f
1
CROSP'NG THE SIERRA NEVADAS.
147
river whose course they were following through these bar-
ren plains, would lead them to some more important river,
or to some large lake or inland sea. This was a country
entirely unknown, even to the adventurous traders and
trappers of the fur companies, who avoided it because it
was out of the buffalo range ; and because the borders of
it, along which they sometimes skirted, were found to be
wanting i;i water-courses in which beaver might be looked
for. Walker's company therefore, now determined to
prosecute their explorations until they came to some new
and profitable beaver grounds. ... >
But after a long march through an inhospitable country
they came at last to where the Humboldt sinks itself in a
great swampy lake, in the midst of deserts of sage-brush.
Here was the end of their great expectations. To the
west of them, however, and not far of!" rose the lofty sum-
mits of the Sierra Nevada range, some of whose peaks
were covered with eternal snows. Since they had already
made an unprofitable business of their expedition, and
failed in its principal aim, that of exploring Salt Lake,
they resolved upon crossing the mountains into California,
and seeking new fields of adventure on the western side
of the Nevada mountains. ^'i .;«: i-.?.; i^ :.sX;i; ..
Accordingly, although it was already late in the autumn,
the party pushed on toward the west, until they came to
Pyramid Lake, another of those swampy lakes which are
frequently met with near the eastern base of these Sierras.
Lito this flowed a stream similar to the Humboldt, which
came from the south, and, they believed, had its rise in
the mountains. As it was important to find a good pass,
they took their course along this stream, which they
named Trucker's River, and continued along it to its
head-waters in the Sierras.
And now began the arduous labor of crossing an un-
^J«,.(<'>W''<P"^F
148
DELIGHT OF THE TRAPPEUB.
<fXt.
)/'
known range of lofty mountains. Mountaineers as they
were, they found it a difficult undertaking, and one^ at-
tended with considerable peril. For a period of more
than three weeks they were struggling with these dangers;
hunting paths for their mules and horses, traveling around
canyons thousands of feet deep; sometimes sinking ia
new fallen snow ; always hungry, and often in peril
from starvation. Sometimes they scrambled up almost
smooth declivities of granite, that offered no foothold
save the occasional seams in the rock; at others they
traveled through pine forests made nearly impassable by
snow ; and at other times on a ridge which wind and sun
made bare for them. All around rose rocky peaks and
pinnacles fretted by ages of denudation to very spears
and needles of a bui'nt looking, red colored rock. Below,
were spread out immense fields, or rather oceans, of
granite that seemed once to have been a molten sea, whose
waves were suddenly congealed. From the fissures be-
tween these billows grew stunted pines, which had found
a scanty soil far down in the crevices of the rock for their
hardy roots. Following the course of any stream flowing
in the rijht direction for their purpose, they came not in-
frequently to some small fertile valley, set in amidst the
rocks like a cup, and often containing in its depth a bright
little lake. These are the oases in the mountain deserts.
But the lateness of the season made it necessary to avoid
the high valleys on account of the snow, which in winter
accumulates to a depth of twenty feet.
Great was the exultation of the mountaineers when
they emerged from the toils and dangers, safe into the
bright and sunny plains of California; having explored
almost the identical route since fixed upon for the Union
Pacific Railroad. - "
They proceeded down the Sacramento valley, toward
■ 1
ESCORTED BY SPANIs^lI SOLDIERS TO MONTEREY. 149
tliG coast, after recruiting tlicir horses on the ripe wild oats,
and the freshly springing grass which the December rains
harl staried into life, and themselves on the plentiful game
of the foot-hills. Something of the stimulus of the Cali-
foniian climate seemed to be imparted to the ever buoy-
ant blood of these hardy and danger-despising men.
They Avere mad with delight on finding themselves, after
crossing the stern Sierras, in a land of sunshine and plenty;
a beautiful land of verdant hills and tawny plains; of
streams winding between rows of alder and willow, and
valleys dotted with picturesque groves of the evergreen
oak. Instead of the wild blasts which they were used to
encounter in December, they experienced here only those
dainty and wooing airs which poets have ascribed to spring,
but which seldom come even with the last May days in an
eastern climate.
In the San Jose valley they encountered a party of one
hundred soldiers, which the Spanish government at Mon-
terey had sent out to take a party of Indians accused of
stealing cattle. The soldiers were native Californians, de-
scendants of the mixed blood of Spain and Mexico, a wild,
jaunty looking set of fellows, who at first were inclined
to take Walker's party for a band of cattle thieves, and to
inarch them off to Monterey. But the Rocky Mountain
trapper was not likely to be taken prisoner by any such
brigade as the dashing cabelleroa of Monterey. ' -, ; ■ "
After astonishing them with a series of whoops and
yells, and trying to astonish them with feats of horseman-
ship, they began to discover that when it came to the lat-
ter accomplishment, even mountain-men could learn some-
thing from a native Californian. In this latter frame of
mind they consented to be conducted to Monterey as pris-
oners or not, just as the Spanish government should here-
after be pleased to decree ; and they had confidence in
m
'■'i
•M I
^••n.ir-
150
A nOSPITAHLE HECKPTION.
themselves that they shouhl be abl'e to bend that hiyh and
mighty autliority to their own purposes tliereaftcr.
Nor were they mistaken in their calcuhitions. Their
fearless, free and easy style, united to their coni})lete fur-
nishing of arms, their numbers, and their superior ability
to stand up under the demoralizing efl'cct of the favorto
aguadlente^ soon so far influenced the soldiery at least, tliat
the trappers were allowed perfect freedcnn under the very
eyes of the jealous Spanish government, and were treated
with all hospitality.
The month which the trappers spent at Monterey was
their "red letter day" for along time after. The habits
of the Californians accorded with their own, with just d.
ference enough to furnish them with novelties and exci^i
ments such as gave a zest to their intci'course. The
Californian, and the mountain-men, were alike centaurs.
Horses were their necessity, and their deliglit; and the
plains swarmed with them, as also with wild cattle, de-
scendants of those imported by the Jesuit Fathers in the
early days of the Missions. These horses and cattle were
placed at the will and pleasure of the trappers. They
feasted on one, and bestrode the other as it suited them,
They attended bull-fights, ran races, threw the lasso, and
played moute, with a relish that delighted the inhabitants
of Monterey.
The partial civilization of the Californians accorded
with every feeling to which the mountain-men could be
brought to confess. To them the refinements of cities
would have been oppressive. The adobe houses of Mon-
terey were not so restraining in their elegance as to trou-
ble the sensations of men used to the heavens for a root
in summer, and a skin lodge for shelter in winter. Some
fruits and vegetables, articles not tasted for years, they
obtained at the missions, where the priests received them
''i
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T
! . .
lifr
4 .'
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i
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;
Rjfj
■^;.iii
THE NATIVE CALIFORNIANS.
151
courteously and hospitably, as they had done Jedediah
Smith and his company, live years before, when on their
lon<' and disastrous journey they found themselves almost
destitute of the necessaries of life, upon their arrival in
Cahfornia. There was something too, in the dress cf the
people, both men and women, which agreed with, while
differing from, the dress of the mountaineers -xnd their
now absent Indian dulcineas.
The men wore garments of many colors, consisting of
blue velveteen breeches and jacket, the jac/Ket having a
scarlet collar and cuff?, and the breeches being open at
the knee to display the stocking of white. Beneath these
were displayed high buskins made of deer skin, fringed
down the outside of the ankle, and laced with a cord and
tassels. On the head was Avorn a broad brimmed sombrero^
and over the shoulders the jaunty Mexican sarajje. When
tliey rode, the Californirus wore enormous spurs, fastened
on by jingling chains. 'xLeir saddles were so shaped that
it was difficult to dislodge the rider, being high before and
behind ; and the indispensable lasso hung coiled from the
pommel. Their stirrups were of wood, broad on the bot-
tom, with a guard of leather that protected the fancy bus-
kin of the horseman from injury. Thus accoutred, and
mounted on a wild horse, the Californian was a suitable
comrade, in appearance, at least, for the buckskin clad trap-
per, with his high beaver-skin cap, his gay scarf, and moc-
casins, and profusion of arms.
The dress of the women was a gown of gaudy calico
or silk, and a bright colored shawl, which served for man-
tlla and bonnet together. They were well formed, with
languishing eyes and soft voices ; and doibtless appeared
charming in the eyes of our band of trappers, with whom
they associated freely at fandangoes, buil-iights, or bear-
baitings. In such company, what wonder that Bonneville's
-■xm
|!
^(JW»I^^
152
THE MQQUIS yiLL.'..GE—INFAMOX[S AFFAIR.
men lingered for a whole month ! What wonder that the
Califorria expedition was a favorite theme by camp-fires,
for along time subsequent? ?i- fui
1834. In February the trappers bethought themselves
of returning to the mountains. The route fixed upon was
one which should take them through Southern California,
and New Mexico, along the course of all the principal
rivers. Crossing the coast mountains, into the valley of
the San Joaquin, they followed its windings until they
came to its rise in the Lulare Lake. Thence turning in a
southeasterly course, they came to the Colorado, at the
Mohave villages, where they traded with the natives,
whom they found friendly. Keeping on down the Colo-
rado, to the mouth of the Gila, they turned back from
that river, and ascended the Colorado once more, to Wil-
liams' Pork, and up the latter stream to some distance,
when they fell in with a company of sixty men under
Frapp and Jervais, two of the partners in the Rocky
Mountain Company. The meeting was joyful on all
sides ; but particularly so between Meek and some of his
old comrades, with whom he had fought Indians and griz-
zly bears, or set beaver traps on some lonely stream in
the Blackfoot country. A lively exchange of quostious
and answers took place, while gaiety and good feeling
reigned.
Frapp had been out quite as long as the Monterey party.
It was seldom that the brigade which traversed the south-
ern country, on the Colorado, and its large tributaries,
returned to winter quarters; for in the region where they
trapped winter was unknown, and the journey to the north-
ern country a long and hazardous one. But the reunited
trappers had each their own experiences to relate.
The two companies united made a party nearly two hun-
dred strong. Keeping with Frapp, they crossed over from
THE RETURN MARCH.
•153
Williams' Fork to the Colorado Chiquito river, at the Mo-
quis village, where some of the men disgraced themselves
far more than did Jo Walker's party at the crossing of
Mary's River. For the Moquis were a half-civilized nation,
^v'lio had houses and gardens, and conducted themselves
kindly, or at the worst peaceably, toward properly behaved
strangers. These trappers, instead of approaching them
with offers of purchase, lawlessly entered their gardens,
rilling them of whatever fruit or melons were ripe, and
not hesitating to destroy that which v/tus not ripe. To this,
as might be expected, the Moquises objected ; and were
shot down for so doing. In this truly infamous affair fif-
teen or twenty of them were killed.
"I didn't belong to that crowd," says Joe Meek, " I sat
on the fence and saw it, though. It was a shameful thing."
From the Moquis village, the joint companies crossed
the country in a northeasterly direction, crossing several
branches of the Colorado at their head-waters, which
course finally brought them to the head-waters of the Rio
Grande. The journey from the month of the Gila, though
long, extended over a country comparatively safe. Either
farther to the south or east, the caravan would have been
in danger of a raid from the most dangerous tribes on the
continent. .; r. v -.,.->? .■-.^.wv. . . .:.".'3 . - .. .»
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^PfS^"^'
,
M
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154
IN THE CAMANCHE COUNTRY.
CHAPTER IX.
1834, But Joe Meek was not destined to return to the
Rocky Mountains without having had an Indian fight. If
adventures did not come in his way he was the man to put
himself in the way of adventures.
While the camp was on its way from the neighborhood
of Grande River to the New Park, Meek, Kit Carson,
and Mitchell, with three Delaware Indians, named Tom
Hill, Manhead, and Jonas, went on a hunt across to the
east of Grande River, in the country lying between the
Arkansas and Cimarron, where numerous small branches
of these rivers head together, or within a small extent of
country.
They were about one hundred-and fifty miles from camp,
and travehng across the open plain between the streams,
one beautiful May morning, when about five miles otF they
descried a large band of Indians mounted, and galloping
toward them. As they were in the Camanche country,
they knew what to expect if they allowed themselves
to be taken prisoners. They gave but a moment to the
observation of their foes, but that one moment revealed
a spirited scene. Fully two hundred Camanches, their
warriors in front, large and well formed men, mounted on
fleet and powerful horses, armed with spears and battle
axes, racing like the wind over the prairie, their feather
head-dresses bending to the breeze, that swept past them
in the race with double force ; all distinctly seen in the
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THE MULE FORT — A CAMANCHE CHARGE.
155
clear air of the prairie, and giving the beholder a thrill of
fear mingled with admiration.
The first moment given to this spectacle, the second one
was employed to devise some means of escape. To run
was useless. The swift Camanche steeds would soon over-
take them ; and then their horrible doom was fixed. No
covert was at hand, neither thicket nor ravine, as in the
mountains there might have been. Carson and Meek ex-
changed two or three sentences. At last, " we must kill
our mules ! " said they.
That seems a strange devise to the uninitiated reader,
who no doubt believes that in such a case their mules must
be their salvation. And so they were intended to be. In
this plight a dead mule was far more useful than a live
one. To the ground sprang every man ; and placing their
nuiles, seven in number, in a ring, they in an instant cut
their throats with their hunting knives, and held on to the
bridles until each animal fell dead in its appointed place.
Then hastily scooping up what earth they could with
knives, they made themselves a fort — a hole to stand in
for each man, and a dead mule for a breastwork.
In less than half an hour the Camanches charged on
them; the medicine-man in advance shouting, gesticulat-
ing, and making a desperate clatter with a rattle which he
carried and shook violently. The yelling, the whooping,
the rattling, the force of the charge were appalling. But
the little garrison in the mule fort did not waver. The
Camanche horses did. They could not be made to charge
upon the bloody carcasses of the mules, nor near enough
for their riders to throw a spear into the fort.
This was what the trappers had relied upon. They
were cool and determined, while terribly excited and
wrought up by their vsituation. It was agreed that no
more than three should fire at a time, the other three re-
■I
•ym
156
REPEATED ATTACKS — THE SQUAWS ' WEAPON.
serving their fire while the empty guns could be reloaded
They were to pick their men, and kill one at every shot,
They acted up to their regulations. At the charge the
Camanche horses recoiled and could not be urged upon
the fort of slaughtered mules. The three whites fired first,
and the medicine-man and two other Camanches fell,
When a medicine-man is killed, the others retire to hold a
council and appoint another, for without their "medicine"
they could not expect success in battle. This was time
gained. The warriors retired, while their women came
up and carried ofi' the dead.
After devoting a little time to bewailing the departed,
another chief was appointed to the head place, and another
furious charge was made with the same results as before.
Three more warriors bit the dust; while the spears of their
brethren, attached to long hair ropes by which they could
be withdrawn, fell short of reaching the men in the fort.
Again and again the Camanches made a fruitless charge,
losing, as often as they repeated it, three warriors, either
dead or wounded. Three times that day the head chief
or medicine-man was killed; and when that happened,
the heroes in the fort got a little time to breathe. While
the warriors held a council, the women took care of the
wounded and slain.
As the women approached the fort to carry off the fallen
warriors, they mocked and reviled the little band of trap-
pers, calling them "women," for fighting in a fort, and
resorting to the usual Indian ridicule and gasconade.
Occasionally, also, a warrior raced at full speed past the
fort apparently to take observations. Thus the battle con-
tinued through the entire day.
It was terrible work for the trappers. The burning sun
of the plains shone on them, scorching them to faintness.
Their faces were begrimed with powder and dust ; their
THE ESCAPE BY NIGIIT THE SOUTH PARK.
157
throats parched, and tongues swollen with thirst, and their
whole frames aching from their cramped positions, as well
the excitement and fatigue oi" the battle. But they
as
dared not relax their vigilance for a moment. They were
fighting for their lives, and they meant to win.
At length the sun set on that bloody and wearisome
day. Forty-two Camanches were killed, and several more
wounded, for the charge had been repeated fifteen or
twenty times. The Indians drew o£f at nightfall to mourn
over their dead, and hold a council. Probably they had
lost faith in their medicines, or believed tliat the trappers
possessed one far greater than any of theirs. Under the
friendly covc^ of the night, the six heroes who had fought
successfully more than a hundred Camanches, took each
his blanket and his gun, and bidding a brief adieu to dead
mules and beaver packs, set out to return to camD. •
When a mountain-man had a journey to perform on foot,'
to travel express, or to escape from an enemy, he fell into
Avhat is called a dog trot, and ran in that manner, some-
times, all day. On the present occasion, the six, escaping
for life, ran all night, and found no water for seventy-five
mile . When they did at last come to a clear running
stream, their thankfulness was equal to their necessity,
"for," says Meek, "thirst is the greatest suffering I ever
experienced. It is far worse than hunger or pain."
Having rested and refreshed themselves at the stream,
they kept on without much delay until they reached camp
in that beautiful valley of the Eocky Mountains called the
New, or the South Park. .. . ^ .. ^ > s>^: --^^.-k-;,,, ,. •
While they remained in the South Park, Mr. Guthrie,
one of the Rocky Mountain Company's traders, was killed
by lightning. A number of persons were collected in the
lodge of the Booshway, Frapp, to avoid the rising tempest,
when Guthrie, who was leaning against the lodge pole,
I n
rm^ppaatammm
158 DEATH OF GUTIIHIE. — MEETING WITH BONNEVILLE.
was struck by a flash of the electric current, and fell dead
instantly. Frapp rushed out of the lodge, partly bewil-
dered himself by the shock, and under the impression that
(luthrie had been shot. Frapp was a German, and spoice
English somcAvhat imperfectly. In the excitement of the
moment he shouted out, " Py , who did shoot
Guttery ! "
" — a' , T expect: He's a firing into camp;"
drawled out Hawkins, whose ready wit was very disregard-
ful of sacred names and subjects.
The mountaineers acre familiar with the most awful
aspects of nature ; and if their familiarity had not bred
contempt, it had at least hardened them to those solemn
impressions which other men would have felt under theu"
influence.
From New Park, Meek traveled north with the main
camp, passing first to the Old Park ; thence to the Little
Snake, a branch of Bear River; thence to Pilot Butte;
and finally to Green River to rendezvous ; having traveled
in the past year about three thousand miles, on horseback,
through new and often dangerous countries. It is easy to
believe that the Monterey expedition was the popular
theme in camp during rendezvous. It had been difficult
to get volunteers for Bonneville's Salt Lake Exploration:
but such was the wild adventure to which it led, that vol-
unteering for a trip to Monterey would have been exceed-
ingly popular immediately thereafter. '
On Bear River, Bonneville's men fell in with their com-
mander, Captain Bonneville, whose disappointment and
indignation at the failure of his plans was exceedingly
great. In this indignation there was considerable justice;
yet much of his disappointment was owing to causes which
a more experienced trader would have avoided. The only
conclusion which can be arrived at by an impartial ob-
RUINOUS COMPETITION.
159
server of the events of 1832-35, is, that none but certain
men of long experience and liberal means, could siicecetl
ill the business of the fur-trade. There were too many
chances of loss; too many wild elements to be mingled
ill amity ; and too powerful opposition from the old estab-
lished compa^iies. Captain Bonneville's experience was
110 diflcrent from Mr. Wyeth's. In both cases there was
iimch cfTort, outlay, and loss. Nor was their failure owing
to any action of the Hudson's Bay Company, different
from, or more tyrannical, than the action of the American
companies, as has frequently been represented. It was
the American companies in the Rocky Mountains that
drove both Bonneville and Wyeth out of th- field. Their
inexperience could not cope with the thorough knowledge
of the business, and the country, which their older rivals
possessed. Raw recruits were no match, in trapping or
fighting, for old mountaineers: and those veterans who
had served long under certain leaders could not be in-
veigled from their service except upon the most extrava-
gai;t otFers; and these extravagant wages, which if one
paid, the other must, would not allow a profit to either of
the rivals. * .
"How much does your company pay you?" asked Bon-
neville of Meek, to whom he was complaining of the con-
duct of his men on the Monterey expedition.
"Fifteen hundred dollars," answered Meek.
'Yes: and /will give it to you," said Bonneville with
bitterness.
It was quite true. Such was the competition aroused
by the Captain's ^efforts to secure good men and pilot.s,
that rather than lose them to a rival company, the Rocky
Mountain Company paid a few of their best men the wa-
ges above named.
■ 11 •• " ' ' ■•■■■■■■" ■-■• -■■^■'
IGO
AUVENTUHE8 IN THE fUOW (."OUNTHY.
CHAPTER X.
1834. The gossip at rendezvous wiis this year of an
unusually exciting character. Of the brigad(3H which left
for different parts of the country the previous suminor,
the Monterey travelers were not the only ones who had
met with adventures. Fitzpatrick, who had led a party
into the Crow country that autumn, had met with a char
acteristic reception from that nation of cunning vaga-
bonds.
Being with his party on Lougue River, in the early part
of September, he discovered that he was being dogged
by a considerable band of Crows, and endeavored to elude
their spying ; but all to no purpose. The Crow chief
kept in his neighborhood, and finally expressed a desire
to bring his camp alongside that of Fitzpatrick, pretend-
ing to the most friendly and honorable sentiments toward
his white neighbors. But not feeling any confidence in
Crow friendship, Fitzpatrick declined, and moved camp a
few miles away. Not, however, wishing to offend the dig-
nity of the apparently friendly chief, he took a small es-
cort, and went to pay a visit to his Crow neighbors, that
they might see that he was not afraid to trust them.
Alas, vain subterfuge ! ;.
While he was exchanging civilities with the Crow chief
a party of the young braves stole out of camp, and taking
advantage of the leader's absence, made an attack on his
camp, so sudden and successful that not a horse, nor any.
thing else which they could make booty of was left
UONOU AMONG TIIIKVES.
IGl
I'lveri Captain Stuart, who was traveling with Fitzpatrick,
and will) was an active officer, was powerless to resist the
iittiick, and had to consent to see the camp rifled of every-
thing valuable.
in the meantime Fitzpatrick, after concluding his visit
ill the most amicable manner, was returning to camp, when
111! was met by the exultant braves, who added insult to
injiny by robbing him of his horse, gun, and nearly all
his clothes, leaving him to return to his party in a de-
plorable condition, to the great amusement of the trap-
pers, and his own chagrin.
However, the next day a talk was held with the head
cliiof of the Crows, to whom Fitzpatrick represented the
infuniy of such treacherous conduct in a very strong light.
Ill answer to this reproof, the chief disowned all knowl-
edge of the affair; saying that he could not always con-
trol the conduct of the young men, who would be a little
wihl now and then, in spite of the best Crow precepts :
l)iit that he would do what he could to have the property
restored. Accordingly, after more talk, and much elo-
quence on the part of Fitzpatrick, the chief part of the
plunder was returned to him, including the horses and
rifles of the men, together with a little ammunition, and a
few beaver traps.
Fitzpatrick understood the meaning of this apparent
fairness, and hastened to get out of the Crow country be-
fore another raid by the mischievous young l)raves, at a
time when their chief was not "honor bound," should de-
prive him of the recovered property. That his conjecture
was well founded, was proven by the numerous petty
thefts which were committed, and by the loss of several
horses and mules, before he could remove them beyond
the limits of the Crow territory.
While the trappers exchanged accounts of their indi-
Jl.^.*l.lii..!UJllii
162
l.Nl'Allt JIIEATMKNT OF WVETH.
vicinal experiences, the leaders liad more important mat-
ters to gossip ovei'. The ri\'ahy between tlie several fur
companies was now at its climax. Tiirough. Hie enerj^^y
and ability of Captain Sublette of the St. Louis Company,
and the experience and industry of the liocky Mountain
Company, which Captain Sublette still continued to con-
trol iri a measure, the power still remained with them
The American (.V)nipany had never been able to cope with
them in the Uocky Mountains ; and the St. Louis Com-
pany were already invading their territory on the Missouri
Hiver, by carrying goods up that river in boats, to trade
with the Indians under the very walls of the American
('ompany's forts.
In August of the previous year, when Mr. Nathaniel
Wyeth had started on his return to the states, he was ac-
companied as far as the mouth of the Yellowstone by
Milton Sublette ; and had engaged with tliat gentleman
to furnish him with goods the following year, as he be
lieved he could do, cheaper than the St. Louis Compai'y,
who purchased their goods in St. Louis at a great advance
on Boston prices. But Milton Sublette fell in with h's
brother the Captain, at the mouth of the Yellowstone,
with a keel-boat loaded with merchandise ; and while
Wyeth pursued his way eastward to purchase the Indian
goods which were intended to supply the wants of the
fur traders in the Rocky Mountains, at a profit to him, and
an advantage to them, the Captain was persuading his
brother n t to encourage any interlopers in the Indian
trade ; but to continue to buy goods fi'om himself, as for-
merly. So potent were his arguments, that Milton yielded
to tliem, in spite of his engagement with Wyeth, Thus
during the autumn of 1833, while Bonneville was being
wronged ai'.d robbed, as he afterwards became convinced,
by his men under Walker, and n n ticipated in the hunting-
BONNEVILLE S VISIT TO WALLAH-WALLAH.
1G3
(rronnd selected for himself, in the Crow country, by Fitz-
patrick, as he had previously been in the Snake country
by Milton Sublette, Wyetb was proceeding to Boston in
pood faith, to execute what proved to be a fool's errand.
Houncville also had gone on another, when after the trap-
ping season was over he left his camp to winter on the
SiKikc River, and started with a small escort to visit the
Columbia, and select a spot for a trading-post on the lower
jjortioii of that river. On arriving at Wallah- Wallah, af-
ter a hard journey over the Blue Mountains in the winter,
the agent at that post had refused to supply him v;ith pro-
visions to prosecute his journey, and given him to under-
stand that the Hudson's Bay Company might be polite
and hospitable to Captain Bonneville as the gentleman,
but that it was against their regulations to encourage the
advent of other traders who would interfere with their
business, and unsettle the minds of the Indians in that
region.
This reply so annoyed the Captain, that he refused the
well meant advice of Mr. Pambi'un that he should not un-
dertake to recross the Blue Mouiitair- in March snows, but
travel under the escort of Mr. F.i 'ctte, one of the Hud-
son's Bay Company's leaders, who was about starting foi'
the Nez Perce country by a safer if more circuitous route.
He therefore set out to return by the route he came,
aiid only arrived at camp in May, lS'.ic, after many dan-
gers and difficulties. From the Portne«^' Jliver, he then
proceeded with his camp to explore the Little Snake
Rivor, and Snake Lake ; and it was while so doing that
he fell in with his men just returned from Monterey.
Such was the relative position of the several fur com-
panies in the Rocky Mountains in 1834 ; and it w^as of
such matters that the leaders talked in the lodge of the
Boosliways, at rendezvous. In the nifantime Wyeth ar-
fi I
>^i Y/ *","••
.164
wvKTii ri tjii;kat — fout hall.
rived in the mountains with his goods, <as he had con-
tracted with Milton Sublette in the previous year. But
on his heels came Captain Sublette, also with goods, and
the Ptocky Mountain Company violated their contract with
Wyeth, and purchased of their old leader.
Thus was Wyeth left, with his goods on his hands, in a
country where it was impossible to sell them, and useless
to undertake an opposition to the already established fur-
traders and trappers. His indignation was great, and cer-
tainly Avas just. In his interview with the Rocky ' i
tain Company, in re])ly to their excuses for, and vniuica
tion of their conduct, his answer Avas:
"Gentlemen, 1 will roll a stone into your garden that
you will never be able to get out."
And he kept his promise ; for that same autumn he
moved on to tlie Snake River, and built Fort Hall, storing
his goods therein. The next year he sold out goods and
fort to the Hudson's Bay Company ; and the stone was in
the garden <^f tlie Rocky Mountain Fur Com})any that
they were never able to dislodge. When Wyeth had built
his fort and h.'ft it in cliarge of an agent, he dispatched a
party of trappers to hunt in the Big Blackfoot countrv.
under Joseph Gale, who had previously been in the ser
vice of the Rocky Mountain Company, and of whom we
shall learn more hereafter, while he set out for the Co-
lumbia to meet his vessel, and establish a salmon fishery
The fate of ihat enterprise has already been recordtni
As for Bonneville, he made one more effort to ivach tk
lower Coluraoia; failing, however, a second tinK\ f^vr th«'
same reason as before — he could not subs^i^^t himself and
company in a country where even evcrv Indian refused to
sell to him either furs or provisions. After hv^ir.g redui^v
to horse-flesh, and finding no enoou)^v*W<^'^ that his con
dition would be improved farthvM' d*,v^u the river, be
HP
DIVISION OF TERRITORY.
165
turned back once more from about Wallah- Wallali, and
returned to the mountains, and from there to the east in
the following year. A company of his trappers, liowever,
continued to hunt for him east of the mountains for two
or three years longer.
The rivahy between the Rocky Mountain and American
Companies was this year diminished by their mutually
agi'ociug to confine themselves to certain parts of the
country, which treaty continued for two years, when they
united in one company. They were then, with the excep-
tion of a few lone traders, the only competitors of the
Iludsion's IJay Company, for the fui'-trade of the West.
i
166
A VISIT TO WYETH'S TRAPPERS.
CHAPTER XI.
1834. The Rocky Mountain Company now confined
themselves to the country lying east of the mountains,
and upon the head-waters and tributaries of the Missouri,
a country very productive in furs, and furnishing abund-
ance 01 game. But it was also the moL '. dangerous of
all the northern fur-hunting territory, as it was the home
of those two nations of desperadoes, the Crows and
Blackfoct. During the two years in which the company
may have been said almost to reside there, desperate en
counters and hair-breadth escapes were incidents of daily
occurrence to some of the numerous trapping parties.
The camp had reached the Blackfoot country in the
autumn of this year, and the trappers were out in all
directions, hunting beaver in tlo/d numerous small streams
that flow into the Missouri. On a small branch of the
Gallatin Fork, some of the trappers fell .in with a party
of Wyetli's men, under Joseph Gale. When their neigh-
borhood became known to the Rocky Mountain camp,
Meek and a party of sixteen of his associates immediately
resolved to pay them a visit, and inquire into their expe-
rience since leaving rendezvous. These visit,: between
dilferent camps are usually seasons of great interest and
general rejoicing. But glad as Gale and his men were
to meet with old friends, when the first burst of hearty
greeting was over, they had but a sorry experience to re-
late. They had been out a long time. The Blackfeet
had used them badly — several men had been killed.
THE VISITORS BECOME DKFENDEHS.
167
Their f'S'nns were out of order, their Jimniunition all but
exliaiisted ; they were destitute, or nearly so, of traps,
bliiukets, knives, everything. They were what the Indian
and the mountain-man call "very poor,"
Half the night was spent in recounting all that had
passed in both companies since the fall hunt began. Little
sympathy did Wyeth's men receive for their forlorn con-
dition, lor sympathy is repudiated by your true moun-
taineer for himself, nor will he fui-nish it to others. The
absurd and humorous, or the daring and reckless, side of
a story is the only one which is dwelt upon in narrating
Ink adventures. The laugh which is raised at his ex})ense
when he has a tale of woes to communicate, is a better
tonic to his dejected spirits than the gentlest pity would
be. Thus lashed into courage again, he is ready to de-
clare that all his troubles were or^y so much pastime.
It was this sort of cheer which the trapping p.irty con-
veyed to Wyeth's men on this visit, and it was gratefully
received, as being of the true kind.
In the morning the party set out to return to camp.
Meek and Liggit starting in advance of the others. I'hey
had not proceeded far whcii they were fii»ed on by a large
band of Blackfeet, who came upon them quite suddenly,
and thinking these two trappers easy game, set up a yell
and dashed at them. As Meek and Liggit turned back
and ran to Gale's camp, the Indians in full chase chained
on them, and rushed pell-mell into the midst of camp,
almost before tiiey had time to discover that they had
surprised so large a party of whites. So sudden was
th(Mr advent, that they had almost taken the camp before
the whites could recover from the confusion of the charge.
It was but a momentary shock, however. In another
instant the roar of twenty guns reverbtH-ated from the
mountains that rose high on either siiW of eiunp. The
, , Ji)pi 1^* » I r III P| I
168
FIGHTING FOR LIFE.
Blackfect were taken in a snare ; but they rallied and fell
hack beyond the grove in which the camp was situated,
setting on (ire the dry grass as they went. The fire
quickly spread to the grove, and shot up the pine trees in
splendid columns of flame, that seemed to lick the face
of heaven. The Indians kept close behind the fire, shoot-
ing into camp whenever they could approach near enough,
the trappers replying by frequent volleys. The yells of
the savages, the noise of the flames roaring in the trees,
the bellowing of the giais, whose echoes rolled among
the hills, and the excitement of a battle for life, made the
scene one long to be remembered with distinctness.
Both sides fought with desperation^. The Blackfoot
blood was up — the trapper blood no less. Gale's men,
from having no ammunition, nor guns that were in order,
c(mld do little more than take charge of the horses, which
they led out into the bottom land to escape the fire, fight
the flames, and look after the camp goods. The few
whose guns were available, showed the game spirit, and
the
fight
hecame mterestmg
as an exhibition of what
mountain wliite men could do in a contest of one to ten,
with the crack warriors of the red race. It was, at any
time, a game party, consisting of Meek, Carson, HaAvkins,
Gale, Liggit, Rider, Robinson, Anderson, Russel, Larison,
Ward, Parmaley, Wade, Michael Head, and a few others
wl¥)se names have been forgotten.
The trappers being driven out of the grove by the fire,
were forced to take to the open ground. The Indians,
following the fire, had the advantage of the shelter
all'orded by the trees, and their shots made havoc among
the horses, most of which were killed because they could
not be taken. As for the trappers, they used the horses
for defence, making rifie-pitG behind them, when no other
covert could be found. In this manner the battle was
THE TRAPPERS VICTORY.
!(;9
siistiiincd until tliroc o'clock in the aftcM-noon, witlioni l(»s?i
of lite to the whites, though severul incsn were wounded.
At three in the ufternoon, the Blaekfoot chief ordered
a retreat, calling out to the tra])per8 that they would {i<i:ht
110 more. Though their loss had been heavy, they still
rrrcatly outnumbered the whites ; nor would the condition
of the arms and the small amount of ammunition left
j)ormit the trappers to pursue them. The Indians were
severely beaten, and no longer in a condition to fight, all
of which was irighly satisfactory to the victors. The oidy
regret was, that Bridger's camp, widen had become aware
during the day that a battle was going on in the neigh-
borhood, did not arrive early enough to exterminate the
whole band. As it was, the big ■.,. .i.-p only came up in
time to assist in taking care of the wounded. The de-
struction of their horses put an end to the independent
existence of Gale's brigade, which joined itself and its
fortunes to Bridger's ccmmand for the remainder of the
year. Had it not been for the fortunate visit of the trap-
pers to Gale's camp, without doubt every man in it would
have perished at the hands of the Blackfcet : a [)iece of
had fortune not unaecordant with that which seemed to
[lUi'sue the enterprises set on foot by the active but un-
Kicky New England trader.
Not long after this battle with the Blackfeet, Meek and
a trapper named Crow, with two Shawnees, went over
into the Crow Country to trap on Pryor's River, a branch
of the Yellowstone. On coming to the pass in the moun-
tains between the Gallatin Fork of the Missouri and the
great bend in the Yellowstone, called Pryor's Gap, Meek
rode forward, with the mad-cap spirit strong in him, to
■ have a little fun with the boys," and advancing a short
distance into the pass, wheeled suddenly, and came racing
back, whooping and yelling, to make his comrades think
*
m
■^m
JJiu.'i tJ 11 i.uimw> '
170
CHASED BY INDIANS — A BLACKFOOT AMBUSH,
he had di.scovered Indians. And lo! as if his yells had
invoked them Ironi the roeks and trees, a war party sud-
denly emerged from the pass, on the heels of the jester,
and what had been sport speedily became earnest, as the
trajjpers turned their horses' heads and made oft' in the
direction of camj). Tiiey had a line race of it, and heard
other yells and war-whoops besides their own ; but they
contrived to elude their .pursuers, returning safe to camp.
This freak of Meek's was, after all, a fortunate ins])irii
tion, for had the four trappers entered the pass and coiiio
upon the war party of Crows, they would never have es-
caped alive.
A few days after, the same party set out again, and
succeeded in reaching Pryor's River unmolested, and set-
ting their traps. They remained some time in this neigh-
borhood trap})ing, but the season had become prott^' well
advanced, and they were thinking of returning to camp
for the winter. The Shawnees set out in one direction
to take up their traps. Meek and Crow in another. The
stream where thiur traps were set was bordered by thick-
ets of willow, wild cherry, and plum trees, and the hank
was about ten feet above the water at this season of the
uir.
yei
Meek had his traps set in the stream about midway be
tween two thickets. As he approached the river he ob
served with the qui( c eye of an experir iced moantain-
man, certain signs wh ;!» giive him little satisfaction. The
bulValo Avere moving olf as if disturbed ; a bear ran sud-
denly out of its covert among the willows. "^
"1 told Crow," said Meek, 'Mluit I didn't like l> go in
there, lie laughed at mo, and called me acoAvard. 'All
the same,' T said ; I had no ftmcy for the place just then
— 1 didn't like the indications. But he kept jeering me,
and at last 1 got nuid and started in. Just as I got to my
A RUNNIN(} FKiHT.
171
traps. 1 (li>!COverc(l tliut two red dovila war u wiitchiii<>- mo
I'roiii the shelter of the thicket to my h'lt, about two rods
,)(V. W'hvn lliey saw that they war discovered they raised •
tlieir guns and tired. I turned my horse's head at the
sunc instant, and one ball ])assed tliroui;h liis neck, under
the neck bone, and the other through his Avithers, just
forward of my saddle.
"Seeing that they had not hit me, one of them ran up
with a s]) 1' to spear me. My horse war rearing and pitch-
ing from the pain of his wounds, so that I could withdiih-
culty govern him ; but I had my gun laid across my arm,
and wh(!n 1 tired I killed the rascal with the sjjear. Up
to that moment I had supposed that them two war all 1
had to deal with. But as 1 got my horse turned round,
with my arm raised to fire at the other red devil, I encoun-
tered the main party, forty-nine of them, Avho war in the
bed of the stream, and had been covered by the bank.
They fired a volley at me. Eleven balls passed through
my blanket, nnder my arm, Avhich war raised. I thought
it time to run, and run I did. Crow war about two hun-
dred yards off. So quick had all this happened, that he
had not stirred from the spot whar I left him. When I
came up to him I called out that I must get on behind
him, for my horse war sick and staggering.
" 'Try him again,' said Crow, who war as anxious to be
off as I war. I did try him agin, and sure enough, he got
tip a gallop, jind away we went, the Blackfeet after us.
But being mounted, we had the advantage, and soon dis-
taiieed them. Before we had run a mile, I had to disniount
■iiid bi'ciithe my horse. We war in a narrow ])ass whar it
war iinpossible to hide, so when the Indians came up with
us, as they did, while I war dismounted we took sure aim
and killed the two foremost ones. Before the others could
get close enough to fire we war off agin. It didn't take
iMj|i»^rMH ■! ■■
172
f:HCAPE.
miu'li \\r<^\n<f to mako my horse go then, for the yolls of
them Hliicklbet spurred liim on.
"Wlieii we had run another mile I dismounted agin, for
fear that my horse would give out, and agin we war over-
taken. Them Blackleetare powerful runners: — no better
than us mountain-men, though. This time we served
them just as we did before. We picked off two of the
foremost, and then went on, the rest whooping after us,
We war overtaken a third time in the same manner ; and
the third time two lilackfeet fell dead in advance. At this,
they took the hint. Six warriors already gone for two
white scalps and two horses; they didn't know how mam-
more would go in the same way. And I reckon they bad
run about all they wanted to, anyway."
It is only necessary to add that Meek and Crow arrived
safely at camp; and that the Shawnees came in after a day
or two all right. Soon after the whole command under
Bridgcr moved on to the Yellowstone, nnd went into win-
ter camp in the great bend of that ri/er, where buffalo
were plenty, and cotton-wood was in abundance. '^^^^ ^^
1835. Towards spring, however, the game had nearly
all disappearc i from the neighborhood of the camp ; and
the hunters were forced to follow the buffalo in their mi-
gration eastward. On one of these expeditions a party
of six trappers, including Meek, and a man named Bose,
made their camp on Clarke's fork of the Yellowstone.
The first night in camp Rose had a dream with which he
was very much impressed. He dreamed of shaking hands
with a large white bear, which insisted on taking his right
hand for that friendly ceremony. He had not given it
very willingly, for he knew too much about bears in gen-
eral to desire to be on very intimate terms with them.
Seeing that the dream troubled Rose, who was supersti-
tiously inclined, Meek resorted to that " certain medicine
A SIN(5ULAR DREAM AND ITS INTKItl'HKTATION.
\7:)
lor iniiids disciiscd" which was in use in the nioimtains, and
added to the distress of Hose his interpretation, in the
s|)iril (d' ridiewle, tellinj^' liiin that he was an adept in the
matter ol' dreams, and that unless lie, Rose, was very niind-
t'ul of himself that day, he would shake hands with IJcel-
ZL'bul) before he slept again.
With tins conU()rtin<^- assurance. Rose set out with the
rcinaiiidcr of the party to hunt hidhdo. They liad pro
cooded alfout three miles from eanij). Rose riding in ad-
vance, when they suddenly encountered a company of
Biackfeet, nine in number, spies'from a war party of one
hundred and fifty, that was prowling and marauding
dirough the country on the lookout for small parties fi'om
tbo camp of Bridgcr. The Jilackfeet lired on the i)arty
as it came up, from their place of concealment, a ball strik-
ing Rose's right arm, and breaking it at the elbow. This
caused his gun to fall, and an Indian sprang forward and
raised it up quickly, aiming it at Meek. The ball passed
through his cap without doing any other harm. By this
time the trappers were made aware of an ambuscade; but
how numerous the enemy was they could not determine.
However, as the rest, who were well mounted, turned to
lly, Meek, who was riding an old mule that had to be beaten
over tlie head to make it go, seeing that he was going to
l)e left behind, called out lustily, " hold on, boys ! There's
not m;(iiy f>F thera. Let's stop and fight 'em;" at the
same tine poinding the mule over the head, but without
effect, i'lie Indians saw the predicament, and ran up to
seize tlie mule by the bridle, but the moment the mule got
wind of the savages, away h'^ went, racing like a thorough-
bred, jumping impediments, and running right over a ra-
vine, which was fortunately filled with snow. This move-
ment brought Meek out ahead.
The other men then began to call out to Meek to stop
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174
MEEK 8 MULE STORY.
and fight. "Run for your lives, boys," roarod Meek back
at them, '' there's ten thousand of them ; tliey'll kill every
one of you ! "
The mule had got his head, and there was no more stop
ping him than there had been starting him. On he went
in the direction of the Yellowstone, while th(; others made
for Clarke's Fork. On arriving at the former river, Meek
found that some of the pack hor.ses had followed him,
and others the rest of the party. This had divided the
Indians, three or four of whom were on his trail. Spring
ing off his mule, he threw his blankets down on the ice,
and by moving them alternately soon crossed the mule
over to the opposite side, just in time to avoid a bullet that
came whistling after him. As the Indians could not fol
low, he pursued his way to camp in safety, arriving late
that evening. The main party were already in and expect
ing him. Soon after, the buffalo hunters returned to the
big camp, minus some pack horses, but with a good story
to tell, at the expense of Meek, and which he enjoys tell-
ing of himself to this day.
T
FIIIST LOVE. — liEAUTl OF UMENTUCKEN.
175
CHAPTER XII.
1835. Owing to the high rate of pay which Meek was
now able to command, he began to think of imitating the
t'xaniplc of that distinguished order, the free trappers, to
wliieli he now belonged, and setting up a lodge to himself
as a family man. The writer of this veracious history has
never been able to obtain a full and particular account of
our hero's earliest love adventures. This is a subject on
wliich, in common with most mountain-men, he observes a
hi'coming reticence. But of one thing we feel quite well
assured: that from the time when the young Shoshonie
hcauty assisted in the rescue of himself and Sublette from
the execution of the death sentence at the hands of her
|)onple, Meek had always cherished a rather more than
tViendly regard for the "Mountain Lamb."
But Sublette, with wealth and power, and the privileges
of a Booshway, had hastened to secure her for himself;
and Meek had to look and long from afiir off, until, in the
year of which wo are writing, Milton Subletie was forced
to leave the mountains and repair to an eastern city for
surgical aid ; having received a very troublesome wound
in the leg, which was only cured at last by amput^ition.
Whether it was the act of a gay Lothario, or whether
the law of divorce is even more easy in the mountains
than in Indiana, we have always judiciously refrained from
iiKjuiring; but this we do know, upon the word of Meek
linnscir, no sooner was Milton's back turned, than his friend
12
i
4
i
ITG
IIEIl DRESa, FIOHSE, AND KQUIPMRNTS,
SO insinuated himself into the good graces of his Isabel
as Sublette was wont to name the lovely Umentuckcn, that
she consented to join her fortunes to those of the handsome
young trapper without even the ceremony of ser\ ing a
notice on her former lord. As their season of bliss only
extended over one brief year, this chapter shall be entirely
devoted to recording such facts as have been imparted to
us concerning this free trapper's wife.
" She was the most beautiful Indian woman I ever saw,''
says Meek: "and when she was mounted on her dapple
gray horse, which cost me three hundred d(;llars, she
made a fine show. She wore a skirt of beautiful blue
broadcloth, and a bodice and leggins of scarlet cloth, of
the very finest make. Her hair was braided and fell over
her shoulders, a scarlet silk handkerchief, tied on hood
fashion, covered her head; and the finest embroidered
moccasins her feet. She rode like all the Indian women,
astride, and carried on one side of the saddle the toma-
hawk for war, and on the other the pipe of peace.
"The name of her horse was "All Fours." His accou-
trements were as fine as his rider's. The saddle, crupper,
and bust girths cost one hundred and fifty dollars; the
bridle fifty dollars; and the mu.sk-a-moots fifty dollars more.
All those articles were ornamented with fine cut glass beads,
porcupine quills, and hawk's bells, that tinkled at every step.
Her blankets were of scarlet and blue, and of the finest
quality. Such was the outfit of the trapper's wife, Umen-
tucken^ Tnkutey Undevivatsj/^ the Lamb of the Mountains."
Although Umentuckcn was beautiful, and had a name
signifying gentleness, she was not without a will and a
spirit of her own, when the occasion demanded it. Whili;
the camp was on the Yellowstone River, in the summer of
1835, a party of women left it to go in search of berries,
which were often dried and stored for winter use by the
accou-
upper,
■s; the
s more,
beads,
ry step.
iG finest
Umen-
ntains."
a name
I and a
While
nmer of
berries,
3 by the
v'^:
■' M
UMENTUCKEN'S QUARKEL WITH TUE TRAPPER.
177
riulian women. Umcntucken accom])anied this party,
which was attacked by a band of Blaekfect, some of the
s([uaws being taken prisoners. But Umentucken saved
liersclf by flight, and by swimming the Yellowstone while
a hundred guns were leveled on her, the bullets whistling
about licr cars.
At another time she distinguished herself in camp by a
quarrel with one of the trappers, in which she came oft'
with flying colors. The trapper was a big, bullying Irish-
man named O'Fallen, who had purchased two prisoners
from the Snake Indians, to be kept in a state of slavery,
after the manner of the savages. The prisoners were
Utes, or Utahs, who soon contrived to escape. O'Fallen,
imagining that Umentucken had liberated them, threatened
to whip her, and armed himself with a horsewhip for that
purpose. On hearing of these threats Umentucken re-
paired to her lodge, and also armed herself, but with a
pistol. When O'Fallen approached, the whole camp look-
ing on to see the event, Umentucken slipped out at the
back of the lodge and coming around confronted him be-
fore he could enter. ' ''f^--
"Coward!" she cried. "You would whip the wife of
Meek. He is not here to defend me ; not here to kill you.
But I ^hall do that for myself," and with that she presented,
the pistol to his head. O'Fallen taken by surprise, and
having every reason to believe she would keep her word,
and kill him on the spot, was obliged not only to apologize,
but to beg to have his life spared. This Umentucken con-
sented to do on condition of his sufficiently bumbling him-
self, which he did in a very shame-faced manner ; and a shout
then went up from the whole camp — " hurrah for the
Mountain Lamb!" for nothing more delights a mountain-
eer than a show of pluck, especially in an unlooked for
quarter.
\vl
it*
trij
\ n
1 !^
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i
&,:.
178 UMENTUCKEN CAPTUUED BV CROWS. — HKR KE80UE.
Tho Indian wives of tlio trappers wore often in great
peril, as well as their lords. Whenever it was eonveniout
they followed them on their lon<^ marehes through dun-
fijerous countries. But if the trapper was only f^oing out
for a few days, or if the march before him was more than
usually dangerous, the wife remained with the main camp.
During this year of which we are writing, a considera-
ble party had been out on Powder River hunting buffalo,
taking their wives along with them. When on the return,
just before reaching camp, Umentueken was missed from
the cavalcade. She had fallen behind, and been taken
prisoner by a ])arty of twelve Crow Indian.s. As soon as
she wa« missed, a volunteer party mounted their buffalo
horses in such haste that they waited not for .saddle or bri-
dle, but snatched only a halter, and started back in pursuit.
They had not run a very long distance when they discov-
ered poor Umentueken in the midst of her jubilant captors,
who were delighting their eyes with gazing at her fine
feathers, and promising themselves very soon to pluck the
gay bird, and a])propriate her trinkets to their own use.
Their delight was premature. Swift on their heels came
an avenging, as well as a saving spirit. Meek, at the
head of his six comrades, no sooner espied the drooping
form of the Lamb, than he urged his horse to the top of
its speed. The horse was a spirited creature, that seeing
something wrong in all these hasty maneuvers, took fright
and adding terror to good will, ran with the speed of mad-
ness right in amongst the startled Crows, who doubtless
regarded as a great " medicine " so fearless a warrior. It
was now too late to be prudent, and Meek began the bat-
tle by yelling and firing, taking care to hit his Indian.
The other trappers, emulating the bold example of their
leader, dashed into the melee and a chance medley fight
was carried on, in which Umentueken escaped, and another
^^ i
4
AN INHULT TO UMENTUCKEN AVENGED HY MEEK. 17!)
n
Crow bit the dust. Finding th:it thoy wore getting the
worst of the light, the liuliuns at length took to fiiglit,
and the tra[)pers retnrned to eamp rejoicing, and conipli-
inciiling Meek on his galhuitry in attacking the Crows
siiij;lo -handed.
"1 took their compliments quite naturally," says Meek,
"nor did I think it war worth while to explain to them
that 1 couldn't hold my horse."
The Indians are lordly and tyrannical in their treatment
of women, thinking it no shame to beat them cruelly ;
even taking the liberty of striking other women than those
belonging to their own families. While the camp wjis trav-
eling through the Crow country in the spring of 183G, a
party of that nation paid a visit to Bridger, bringing skins
to trade for blankets and ammunition. The bargaining
went on quite pleasantly for some time ; but one of
the braves who was promenading about camp inspecting
whatever came in his way, chanced to strike Umentucken
with a whip he carried in his hand, by way of displaying
his sui)eriority to squaws in general, and trappers' wives
in particular. It was an unlucky blow for the brave, for
in another instant he rolled on the gro rnd, shot dead by
a bullet from Meek's gun.
At this rash act the camp was in confusion. Yells from
the Crows, who took the act as a signal for war; hasty
questions, and cries of command ; arming and shooting.
Il was some time before the case could be explained or
understood. The Crows had two or three of their party
shot ; the whites also lost a man. After the unpremedita-
ted tight was over, and the Crows departed not thoroughly
satisfied with the explanation, Bridger went round to
Mi'ek's lodge. ' • •
" Well, you raised a hell of a row in camp ; " said the
commander, rolling out his deep bass voice in the slow
I
^"■1
%
i .in
lilf
180 THK FKMALK KLKMKNT — DEATH OF UMENTUCKEN.'
monotonous tonos which mountain men very ({uickly ac-
quire from the Indians.
" Very sorry, Bridger ; but coukln't help it. No devil
of an Indian shall strike Meek's wife."
" But you got a man killed."
" Sorry for the man ; couldn't help it, though, Bridger."
And in truth it was too late to mend the matter. Fear-
ing, however, that the Crows would attempt to avenge
themselves for the losses they had sustained, 13ridger hur-
ried his camp forward, and got out of their neighborhood
as quickly as possible.
So much for the female clement in the camp of the
Rocky Mountain trapper. Wonum, it is said, has held the
apple of discord, from mother Eve to Umentucken, and
in consonance with this theory, Bridger, doubtless, con
sidered the latter as the primal cause of the unfortunate
" row in camp," rather than the brutality of the Crow, or
the imprudence of Meek.
But Umontucken's career was nearly run. In the fol-
lowing summer she met her death by a Bannack arrow;
dying like a warrior, although living she was only a woman.
^/^^V,.m
\
- i
ADVENT OF TWO MISSIONAHIES.
181
CHAPTER XIII.
1835. The rondozvous of the Hooky Mountain Com-
])iuiy scUlom took place without combining with its many
wild elements, some other more civilized and refined.
Arti.'^ts, botanists, travelers, and hunters, from the busy
world outside the wilderness, frequently claimed the com-
j)iUiioiishi[), if not the hospitality of the fur companies, in
tliL'ir wanderin<:;s over prairies and among mountains. Up
to the year 1835, these visitors had been of the classes
just named ; men traveling either for the love of adven-
ture, to prosecute discoveries in science, or to add to art
the treasure of new scenes and subjects.
]3ut in this year there appeared at rendezvous two gen-
tleinoii, who had accompanied the St. Louis Company in
its outward trip to the mountains, whose object was not
the procurement of pleasure, o^ the improvement of sci-
ence. They had come to found missions among the In-
dians ; the Rev. Samuel Parker and Rev. Dr. Marcus
\\' hit man ; the first a scholarly and fastidious man, and
the other possessing all the boldness, energy, and contempt
of fastidiousness, which would have made him as good a
mountain leader, as he was an energetic servant of the
Anierican Board of Foreign Missions.
The cause which had brought these gentlemen to the
wilfl(!rness was a little incident connected with the fur
trade. Four Flathead Indians, in the year 1832, having
lieard enough of the Christian religion, from the few de-
tl ■: \
RV. '
'v!
M
' m
I , : ■
. ) 4
182
HONNKVILLE 8 ACCOUNT OF TlIK NEZ I'KIICKS.
l.i
vout men connected with llic fur eonipaiiies, to desire to
know more, performed u v-inter journey to St. Louis, and
there made iiujuiry about the white nuuTs reli<^don. This
incident, wliich to any one ae(iuuinted with Indiun ehan.v;-
ter, would a))|)ear a very natural one, when it became
known to Chri.stian churches in the United States, excited
a very lively interest, and seemed to call upon them like
a voice out of heaven, to fly to the rescue of ])erisliing
heathen souls. The Methodist Church Avas the lirst to re-
81)on(l. When W'ycth returned to the mountains in 1834,
four missionaries ,iccom])anied him, destined for the vallc)
of the Wallamet River in Urej^^on. In the Ibllowing year,
the Presbyterian Church sent out its a^^ents, the two ^m-
tlemen above mentioned; one of whom, Dr. Whitman,
subsequently located near Fort Walla-AValla.
The account given by Capt. Bonneville of the Flatheads
and Nez Perces, as he found them in 1832, before mission
ary labor had been among them, throws some light on the
incident of the journey to St. Louis, which so touched tlic
Christian heart in the f nited States. After relating his
surprise at finding that the Nez Perces observed certain
sacred days, he continues : " A few days afterwards, fonr
of them signified that they were about to hunt. ' What!"
exclaimed the captain, ' without guns or arrows ; and
with only one old spear ? What do you expect to kill?
They smiled among themselves, but made no answer.
Preparatory to the chase, they performed some religious
rights, and offered up to the Great Spirit a few short
prayers for safety and success; then having received the
blessing of their wives, they leaped upon their horses and
departed, leaving the wdiole party of Christian spectators
amazed and rebuked by this lesson of faith and depend-
ence on a supreme and benevolent Being. Acii imied
as I had heretofore been to find the wretched ludii':; rev-
AN ENTHUHIAflTIC VIEW OK INDIAN CIIAUACTEIl.
1H3
cling in l)l()(»(l, and stiiiiKMl by every viee whicli can dc-
..•iiulc limniuj nature, 1 could scarcely realize the .sc(Mie
wliirli 1 liiid witnessed. Wonder at such unalVectetl ten-
derness and pi(*ty, where it was least to have been sought,
contended in all our bosoms with shame and confusion, at
ren,ivin<jf such pure and wholesome insuu Mens IVom
creatures so far below us in all the arts and comforts
of life.
" Siinjdy to call these people relifi^ious,' continaed Hornie-
ville, ' ^ wuld convey but a faint idea of th' deep hue of
niety and devotion which pervades their whole conduct.
'flieir honesty is immaculate, and their purity of purpose,
and their observance of the rites of their relijjfion, are
most uniform and remarkable. They are certainly more
like a iKition of saints than a horde of savage.«."
This was a very enthusiastic view to take of the Nez
Perce character, which appeared all the bri^rhter to the
Captain, by contrast with the savage life which he had
witnessed in other places, and even by cimtrast with the
conduct of the white trappers. But the Nez Perces and
Flatheads were, intellectually and morally, an exception
to all the Indian tribes west of the Missouri River. Lewis
and Clarke found them different from any others ; the fur-
traders and the mi^Liionaries found them different; and
tliey remain at this day an honorable example, for probity
and piety, to both savage and civilized peoples
To account for this superiority is indeed difficult. The
only clue to the cause is in the followdng stat-^mcnt of
Bonneville's. " It would appear," he says, ' that they had
imbibed some notions of the Christian faith from Catholic
missionaries and traders who had been among them. They
even had a rude calender of the fasts and festivals of the
Uomish Church, and some traces of its ceremonials. These
184
THE INDUNS IDEA OF A GOD.
have become blended with their own wild rites, and pre-
sent a strange medley, civilized and barbarous."
Poinding that these people among whom he was thrown
exhibited such remarkable traits of charactler, Captain
Bonneville exerted himself to make them acquainted with
the history and spirit of Christianity. To these explana-
tions they listened with preat eagerness. " Many a time,"
he says, " was my litde lodge thronged, or rather piled
with hearers, for they lay on the ground, one leaning over
the other, until there was no further room, .all listening
with greedy ears to the wonders which the Great Spirit
had revealed to the wdiite man. No other subject gave
them half the satisfaction, or commanded half the atten-
tioi; ; and but few scenes of my life remain so freshly on
my memory, or are so pleasurably recalled to my contempla-
tion, as these hours of intercourse with a distant and be-
nighted race in the midst of the desert."
It was the interest awakened by these discourses of
Captain Bonneville, and possibly by Smith, and other
traders who happened to fall in with the Nez Perces and
Flatheads, that stimulated those four Flatheads to under-
take the journey to St. Louis in search of information;
and this it was which resulted in the establishment of
missions, both in western Oregon, and among the tribes
inhabiting the country between the two great branches of
the Columbia.
The trait of Indian character which Bonneville, in his
pleased surprise at the apparent piety of the Nez Perces
and Flatheads, fiiiled to observe, and which the missiona-
ries themselves for a long time remained oblivious to, was
the material nature of their religious views. The Indian
judges of all things by the material results. If he is pos-
sessed of a good natural intelligence and powers of obser-
vation, he soon discovers that the God of the Indian is
THE Indian's religion — material good desired. 185
])Ut a feeble deity ; for does he not perg^t the Indian to
be defeated in war ; to starve, and to freeze ? Do not the
hidian medicine men often fail to save life, to win battles,
to curse their enemies ? The Indian's God, he argues,
must be a good deal of a humbug. He sees the white
men faring much better. They have guns, ammunition,
blankets, knives, everything in plenty ; and they are suc-
cessful in war ; are skillful in a thousand things the Indian
knows nothing of. To be so blest implies a very wise and
powerful Deity. To gain all these things they are eager
to learn about the white man's God ; are willing to do
whatever is necessary to please and propitiate Him. Hence
their attentiveness to the white man's discourse about his
religion. Naturally enough they were struck with won-
der at the doctrine of peace and good will; a doctrine so
different from the law of blood by which the Indian, in
his natural state, lives. Yet if it is good for the white
men, it must be good for him ; at all events he is anxious
to try it.
That is the course of reasoning by which an Indian is
led to inquire into Christianity. It is a desire to better
his physical, rather than his spiritual condition ; for of the
latter he has but a very faint conception. He was accus-
tomed to desire a material Heaven, such a world beyond
the grave, at. he could only imagine from his earthly ex-
perience. Heaven was happiness, and happiness was
plenty; thciofore the most a good Indian could desire
was to go where there should forevermore be plenty.
Such was the Indian's view of religion, and it coulO be
no other. Until the wants of the body have been sup-
plied by civilization, the wants of the soul do not develop
themselves : and until then the savage is not prepared
to understand Christianity. This is the law of Nature and
of God. Primeval man was a savage ; and it was little
1 >'3l
;rii
! n
186 THE FIRST SERMON IN TUE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
m
by little, throngh thousands of years, that Christ was re-
vealed. P]vcry child born, even now, is a savage, and has
to be taught civilization year after year, until he arrives
at the possibility of comprehending spiritual religion. So
every full grown barbarian is a clild in moral develop
ment; and to expect him to comprehend those mysteries
over which the world has agonized for centuries, is to
commit the gravest error. Into this error fell all the mis-
sionaries who came to the wilds that lay beyond the Rocky
Mountains. They undertook to teach religion first, and
more simple matters afterward — building their edifice like
the Irishman's chimney, by holding up the top brick, and
putting the others under it. Failure was the result of
such a process, as the record of the Oregon Missions suffi-
ciently proves. .
The reader will pardon this digression — made necessary
by the part which one of the gentlemen present at tliis
year's rendezvous, was destined to take in the history
which we are writing. Shortly after the arrival of Messrs.
Parker and Whitman, rendezvous broke up. A party, to
which Meek was attached, moved in tlie direction of tlie
Snake River head-waters, the missionaries accompanying
them, and after making two camps, came on Saturday eve
to Jackson's Little Hole, a small mountain valley near the
larger one commonly known as Jackson's Hole.
On the following day religious services were held in the
Rocky Mountain Camp. A scene more unusual could
hardly have transpired than that of a company of trap-
pers listening to the preaching of the Word of God,
Very little pious reverence marked the countenances of
that wild and motley congregation. Curiosity, incredulit)'.
sarcasm, or a mocking levity, were more plainly percepli
ble in the expression of the men's faces, than either devo
tion or the longing expectancy of men habitually deprived
1
THE REV. DK. WHITMAN.
187
of what they once highly valued. The Indians alone
showed by their eager listening that they desired to be-
come acquainted with the mystery of the "Unknown
(lod.
Tlic Rev. Samuel Parker preached, and the men were
;i.s politely attentive as it was in their reckless natures to
he, until, in the midst of the discourse, a band of buifalo
apiJOfircd in the valley, when the congregation incon-
tinently broke up, without staying for a bchcdiction, and
every man made haste after his horse, gun, and rope,
leaving ^Ir. Parker to discourse to vacant ground. i
The run was both exciting and successful. About
twenty fine buffaloes were killed, and the choice pieces
brought to camp, cooked and eaten, amidst the merriment,
mixed Avith somel' "ng coarser, of the hunters. On this
noisy rejoicing Mr Parker looked Avith a sober aspect:
;ind following the dictates of his religious feeling, he re-
buked the sabbath-breakers quite severely. Better for his
influence among the men, if he had not done so, or had
not eaten so heartily of the tender-loin afterwards, a cir-
cumstance wdiicli his irreverent critics did not fail to re-
mark, to his prejudice ; and upon the principle that the
"partaker is as bad as the thief," they set down his lecture
on sabbath-breaking as nothing better than pious humbug.
Dr. Marcus Whitman was another style of man. What-
ever ho thought of the wald ways of the mountain-men
he discreetly kept to himself, preferring to teach by ex-
inn{)le rather than precept; and ohowing no fastidious
contempt for any sort of rough duty he might be called
ui)on to perform. So aptly indeed had he turned his hand
to all manner of camp service on the journey to the moun-
tains, that this abrogation of clerical dignity had become
a source of solicitude, not to say disapproval and displeas-
ure on the '- rt of his colleague ; and it was agreed be-
vt tl
188
THE MISSIONARIES REXUllN TO THE STATES.
tween them that the Doctor should return to the states
vnih the St. Louis Company, to procure recruits for the
promising field of labor which they saw before them,
while Mr. Parker continued his journey to the Columbia
to decide upon the location of the missionary stations.
The difference of character of the two men was clearly
illustrated by the results of this understanding. Parlcer
went to Vancouver, where he was hospitably entertained,
and where he could in(piire into the workings of the mis-
sionary system as pursued by the Methodist missionaries.
His investigations not proving the labor to his taste, he
sailed the following summer for the Sandwich Islands, and
thence to New York ; leaving only a brief note for Doctor
Whitman, when he, with indefatigable exertions, arrived
that season among the Nez Perces with a missionary com-
pany, eager for the work which they hoped to make as
great as they believed it to be good.
>•/■ ...
MEEK FALLS INTO THE HANDS OF CKOWS.
189
CHAPTER XIV.
From the mountains about the head-waters of the
Snake River, Meek returned, with Bridger's brigade to
the Yellowstone country, where he fell into the hands of
the Crows. The story as he relates it, is as follows:
"I war trapping on the Rocky Fork of the Yellowstone.
I had been out from camp five days ; and war solitary and
alone, when I war discovered by a war party of Crows.
They had the prairie, and I war forced to run for the
Creek bottom ; but the beaver had throwed the water out
and made dams, so that my mule mired down. While I
war struggling in the marsh, the Indians came after me,
with tremendous yells; firing a random shot now and
then, as they closed in on me.
" When they war within about two rods of me, I brought
old Sail//, that is my gun, to my face, ready to fire, and
then die; for I knew it war death this time, unless Provi-
dence interferec^ tQ-'^save me : and I didn't think Provi-
dence wo;il(i do it. But the head chief, when he saw the
warlike looks of Sally, called out to me to put down my
gun, and I should live.
"Well, I liked to live, — being then in the prime of life;
and though it hurt me powerful, I resolved to part with
Salhj. I laid her down. As I did so, the chief picked her
lip, and one of the braves sprang at me with a spear, and
would have run me through, but the chief knocked him
down with the butt of my gun. Then they led* me forth
to the high plain on the south side of the stream. There
M
'1i
190
QUESTIONED BY THE CHIEF.
\ :
they called a halt, and I was p,iven in charge of throe wo-
men, while the warriors formed a ring to smoke and con-
sult. This gave me an op])ortnnity to count them: they
numbered one hundred and eighty-seven men, nine boys,
and three women.
'"After a smoke of three long hours, the chief, who war
named 'The Bold,' called me in the ring, and said:
• " ' I have known the whites for a long time, and I know
them to be great liars, deserving death ; but if you will
tell the truth, you shall live.'
"Then I thought to myself, they will fetch the truth
out of me, if thar is any in me. But his highness con-
tinued :
" ' Tell me whar are the whites you belong to ; and what
is your captain's name.'
"I said 'Bridger is my captain's name; or, in the Crow
tongue, Casapy^'' the 'Blanket chief At this answer the
chief seemed lost in thought. At last he asked me —
" ' How many men has he ?'
"I thought about telling the truth and living; but I
said 'forty,' which war a tremendous lie; for thar war
two hundred and forty. At this answer The Fold laughed:
"'We will make them poor,' said he; 'and you shall
live, but they shall die.'
"I thought to myself, 'hardly ;' but I said nothing. He
then asked me whar I war to meet the camp, and I told
him:— and then how many days before the camp would
be thar ; which I answered truly, for I wanted them to
find the camp.
- "It war now late in t le afternoon, and thar war a great
bustle, getting ready fc the march to meet Bridger. Two
big Indians mounted my mule, but the women made me
pack moccasins. The spies started first, and after awhile
the main mrty. Seventy warriors traveled ahead of me:
BRIDGERS CAMP DISCOVERED.
191
I ^var placed with the women and boys ; and after lis the
balance of the braves. As we traveled along, the women
would prod me with sticks, and laugh, and say 'Masta
Shecla,' (which means white man,) 'Masta sheela very
poor now.' The fair sex war very much amused.
"We traveled that way till midnight, the two big bucks
riding my mule, and I packing moccasins. Then we
camped ; the Indians in a ring, with me in the centre, to
k(>ep me safe. I didn't sleep very well that night. I'd a
heap ratlier been in some other -place.
"The next morning we started on in the same order as
l)efoic : and the squaws making fun of me all day ; but I
kept mighty quiet. When we stopped to cook that eve-
ning, I Avar set to work, and war head cook, and head
Avaiter too. The third and the fourth day it war the same.
I felt pretty bad when we struck camp on the last day: for
I kncAV we must be coming near to Bridger, and that if
any thing should go wrong, my life would pay the forfeit.
"On the afternoon of the fourth day, the spies, who
war in advance, looking out from a high hill, made a sign
to the main party. In a moment all sat down. Directly
they got another sign, and then they got up and moved
on. I war as well up in Indian signs as they war ; and I
knew they' had discovered white men. What war worse,
I knew they would soon discover that I had been lying to
them. All I had to do then war to trust to luck. Soon we
came to the top of the hill, which overlooked the Yellow-
stone, from which I could see the plains below extending
as far as the eye could reach, and about three miles off,
the camp of my friends. My heart beat double quick
about that time ; and I once in a while put my hand to
my head, to feel if my scalp war thar.
"While I war watching our camp, I discovered that the
hoi&u guard had seen us,, for I knew the sign he would
13 .■^
I
■'in
192
SIGNALING THE HORSE GUARD.
■JK
make if he discovered Indians. I thought the camp a
splendid sight that evening. It made a powerful show to
me, who did not expect ever to see it after that day. And
it loar a fine sight any how, from the hill whar I stood.
About two hundred and fifty men, and women and chil-
dren in great numbers, and about a thousand horses and
mules. Then the beautiful plain, and the sinking sun;
and the herds of buffalo that could not be numbered;
and the cedar hills, covered with elk, — I never saw so fine
a sight as all that looked to me then !
"When I turned my eyes on that savage Crow band,
and saw the chief standing with his hand on his mouth, lost
in amazement ; and beheld the warriors' tomahawks and
spears glittering in the sun, my heart war very little,
Directly the chief turned to me with a horrible scowl.
Said he :
" 'I promised that you should live if you told the truth;
but you have told me a great lie.'
" Then the warriors gathered around, with their toma-
hawks in their hands ; but I war showing off very brave,
and kept my eyes fixed on the horse-guard who war ap-
proaching the hill to drive in the horses. This drew th''
attention of the chief, and the warriors too. Seeing the
the guard war within about two hundred yards of us, the
chief turned to me and ordered me to tell him to come
up. I pretended to do what he said; but instead of that
I howled out to him to stay off, or he would be killed;
and to tell Bridger to try to treat with them, and get me
away.
"As quick as he could he ran to camp, and in a few
minutes Bridger appeared, on his large white horse. He
came up to within three hundred yards of us, and called
out to me, asking who the Indians war. I answered
SUCCESSFUL STRATEGY — CAPTURE OF LITTLE-GUN. 193
'Crou'S.' He then told me to say to the chief he wished
him to send one of his sub-chiefs to smoke with him.
"All this time my he.art beat terribly hard. I don't
know now why they didn't kill me at once ; but the head
chief seemed overcome with surprise. When I repeated
to him what Bridger said, he reflected a moment, and then
ordered the second chief, called Little-Gun, to go and
smoke Avith Bridger, But they kept on preparing for
war; getting on their paint and feathers, arranging their
scalp locks, selecting their arrows, and getting their am-
munition ready.
"While this war going on, Little-Gun had approached
to within about a hundred yards of Bridger; w icn, ac-
cording to the Crow laws of war, each war forced to strip
himself, and proceed the remaining distance in a state of
nudity, and kiss and embrace. While this interesting cere-
mony war being performed, five of Bridger's men had
followed him, keeping in a ravine until they got within
shooting distance, when they showed themselves, and cut
off the return of Little-Gun, thus making a prisoner of
him. '' " ■ ■ ' • " '■'■
"If you think my heart did not jump up when I saw
that, you think wrong. I knew it war kill or cure, now.
Every Indian snatched a weapon, and fierce threats war
howled against me. But all at once about a hundred of
our trappers appeared on the scene. At the same time
Bridger called to me, to tell me to propose to the chief to
exchange me for Little-Gun. I explained to The Bold
what Bridger wanted to do, and he sullenly consented :
for, he said, he could not afford to give a chief for one
white dog's scalp. I war then allowed to go towards my
camp, and Liitle-Gun towards his; and the rescue I hardly
hoped for war accomplished.
"In the evening the chief, with forty of his braves, vis-
!*■-■>-
■M
- i*«-
194
13ESEIGED BVr BEARS A LAZY TUAPrEll.
itcd Bridgcr and made a treaty of tlircc inontlis. Thoj'
said they war formerly at war Avitli the wliites ; but that
they desired to be friendly with them now, so that to-
gether they might fight the lUaekfeet, who war every-
body's enemies. As for ine, they returned me my mule,
gun, and beaver paeks, and said my name slumld bo
Shiam Sha.spusia^ for I could out-lie the Crows."
In December, Bridgcr's commnnd went into wintor
quarters in the bend of the Yellowstone. Bufl'alo, elk,
and bear were in great abundance, all that fall and winter.
Before they went to camp, Meek, Kit Carson, Hawkins,
and Doughty w^erc trapping together on the Yellowstone,
about sixty miles below. They had made their temporary
camp in the ruins of an old fort, the walls <jf which were
about six feet high. One evening, after coming in from
setting their traps, they discovered three large grizzly
bears in the river bottom, not more than half a mile oil"
and Hawkins went out to shoot one. lie was successful
in killing one at the first shot, when the other two, taking
fright, ran towards the fort. As they came near enougii
to show that they were likely to invade camp, Meek and
Carson, not caring to have a bear fight, clanbered up a
cotton-wood tree close by, at the same time advising
Doughty to do the same. But Doughty was tired, and
lazy besides, and concluded to take his chances where lie
was ; so he rolled himself in his blanket and laid quite
still. The bears, on making the fort, reared up on their
hind legs and looked in as if mcdit'\ting taking it for a
defence.
The sight of Doughty lying rolled in his blanket, and
the monster grizzlys inspecting the fort, caused the tw
trappers who were safely perched in the cotton-wood to
make merry at Doughty's expense ; saying all the mirtli-
provoking things they could, and then advising him not
-'I
1
TlIK DECOY OF THE DELAWARES.
195
to liiuLcli, Tor fciir the boars sliould seize him. Poor
Dounlity, agoni/iug l)etwcen suppressed laughter and
growing fear, contrived to lie still however, while the
iKiirs gazed upward at the s})eakers in wcjnder, and aller-
iKitely at the suspicious looking bundle inside the fort.
Not being able to nud^e out the meaning of either, they
giive at last a grunt of dissatisfaction, and ran off into a
thicket to consult over these strange appearances ; leaving
tlic trappers to enjoy the incident as a very good joke.
For a long time after, Doughty was reminded how close
to the ground he laid, when the grizzlys paid their com-
pliments to him. Such were the every-day incidents from
which the nu)un tain-men contrived to derive their rude
jests, aiul laughter-provoking reminiscences.
A few days after this incident, while the same party
were trapping a few miles farther down the river, on their
wtiy to camp, they ^ell in with some Delaware Indians,
who said they had discovered signs of Blackfeet, and
wanted to borrow some horses to decoy them. T this
the trappers very willingly agreed, and they were fur-
nished with two horses. The Delawares then went to the
spot where signs had been discovered, and tying the
horses, laid flat down on the ground near them, concealed
by the grass or willows. They had not long to wait be-
fore a Blackfoot was seen stealthily advancing through the
thicket, confident in the belief that he should gain a cou-
ple of horses while their supposed owners were busy with
their traps.
But just as he laid his hand on the bridle of the first
one, crack went the rifles of the Delawaies, and there was
one less Blackfoot thief on the scent after trappers. As
soon as they could, after this, the party mounted and rode
to camp, not stopping by the way, lest the main body of
Blackfeet should discover the deed and seek for vengeance.
19G
THK IHIIMAELITE OF THE WILDEllNErtB.
Truly indeed, was the Blackfoot the Ishmaol of the wil
deriiesH, whose hand was against every man, and every
man's liand against him.
The Rocky Mountain Company passed the first part of
the winter in peace and plenty in the Yellowstone camp,
unannoyed either by enemies or rivals. Hunting buft'alo,
feeding their horses, playing games, and telling stories, oc-
cupied the entire leisure of these months of rei)ose. Not
only did the mountain-men recount their own adventures,
but when these were exhausted, those whose memories
served them rehearsed the tales they had read in their
youth. Robinson Crusoe and the Arabian Nights Enter-
tainment, were read over again by the light of memory;
and even Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress was made to recite
like a sensation novel, and was quite as well enjoyed.
1836. In January, however, this repose was broken in
upon by a visit from the Blackfeet. As their visitations
were never of a friendly character, so then they were not
bent upon pacific rites and ceremonies, such as all the rest
of the world find pleasure in, but came in full battle array
to try their fortunes in war against the big camp of the
whites. They had evidently made great preparation.
Their warriors numbered eleven hundred, got up in the
top of the Blackfoot fashions, and armed with all manner
of savage and some civilized weapons. But Bridger was
prepared for them, although their numbers were so over-
whelming. He built a fort, had the animals corraled, and
put himself on the defensive in a prompt and thorough man-
ner. This made the Blackfeet cautious ; they too built
forts of cotton-wood in the shape of lodges, ten men to
each fort, and carried on a skirmishing fight for two days,
when finding there was nothing to J)e gained, they de-
parted, neither side having sustained much loss; the
whites losing only two men by this grand Blackfoot army.
MAUCH TllltOUUU THE CUOW COINTUV
197
Soon after this attack Bridgcr broke camp, nnd traveled
ii|) tliL' VcllowHtoiio, through tlie Crow country. It was
wliili! on this inarch that (Iniontucken was struck by a
Crow, and Meek put the whole camp in peril, by shooting
him. They passed on to the Big Horn and Little Horn
rivers, down through the Wind River valley and through
the South Pass to (Jreeu River.
While in that country, there occurred the fight with the
l)iiniiiieks in which Umentucken was killed. A small party
of Nez Perces had lost their horses by the thieving of the
Bannacks. They came into camp and complained to the
whites, who promised them their protection, should they
l)e able to recover their horses. Accordingly the Ncz Per-
ces started after the thieves, and by dogging their camp,
succeeded in re-capturing their horses and getting back
to Bridgcjr's camp with them. In order to divert the
vengeance of the Bannacks from themselves, they pre-
sented their horses to the whites, aud a very fine one to
Bridger.
All went well for a time. The Bannacks went on their
way to hunt buffalo ; but they treasured up their wrath
arrainst the supposed white thieves who had stolen the
liorses which they had come by so honestly. On their re-
turn from the huut, having learned by spies that the horses
were in the camp of the whites, they prepared for war.
Early one morning they made their appearance mounted
and armed, and making a dash at the camp, rode through
it with the usual yells and frantic gestures. The attack
was entirely unexpected. Bridger stood in front of his
lodge, holding his horse by a lasso, and t' ^. liCad chief
rode over it, jerking it out of his hand. At this unprece-
dented insult to his master, a negro named Jim, cook to
the Booshways, seized a rifle and shot the chief dead. At
the same timCj an airow shot at random struck Umen-
i
I
V!
if
V :i
198
PUNISHMENT OF TilE BANNACKS.
tucken in the breast, and the joys and sorrows of the
Mountain Lamb were over forevermore.
The killing of a head chief always throws an Indian
war party into confusion, and negro Jim was greatly elated
at this signal feat of his. The trappers, who were as
much surprised at the suddenness of the assault as it k in
the mountain-man's nature to be, quickly recovered them-
selves. In a few moments the men were mounted and in
motion, and the disordered Baunacks were obliged to fly
towards their village, Bridger's company pursuing them.
All the rest of that day the trappers fought the Ban-
nacks, driving them out of their village and plundering
it, and forcing them to take refuge on an island iu the
river. Even there they were not safe, the guns of the
mountain-men picking them off, from their stations on the
river banks. Umentucken was well avenged that day.
All night the Indians remained on the island, where
sounds of wailing were heard continually ; and when
morning came one of their old women appeared bearing the
pipe of peace. " You have killed all our warriors," she
said; "do you now want to kill the women? If you
wish to smoke with women, I have the pipe."
Not caring either to fight or to smoke with so feeble a rep-
resentative of the Bannacks, the trappers withdrew. But
it was the last war party that nation ever sent against the
mountain-men ; though in later times they have by their
atrocities avenged the losses of that day.
While awaiting, in the Green River valley, the arrival
of the St. Louis Company, the Rocky Mountain and North
American companies united ; after which Captain Sublette
and his brother returned no more to the mountains. The
new firm was known only as the American Fur Company,
the other having dropped its title altogether. The object
of their consolidation was by combiiiiug their capital
AN EXCURSION.
199
experience to strengthen their hands against the Ilndson's
Bay Company, which now had an establisliment at Fort
Hall, on the Snake River. By this new arrangement,
Brivlger and Fontenelle commanded ; and Dripps was to
be the traveling partner who was to go to St. Louis for
goods.
After the conclusion of this agreement, Dripps, with the
restlessness of the true mountain-man, decided to set out,
with a small party of equally restless trappers, always
eager to volunteer for any undertaking promising either
danger or diversion, to look for the St. Louis Company
which was presumed to be somewhere between the Black
Hills and Green Uiver. According to this determination
Dripps, Meek, Carson, Newell, a Flathead chief named
Victor, and one or two others, set o it on the search for
the expected company.
It happened, however, that a war party of a hundred
Crows were out on the trr il Ixifore them, looking perhaps
for the same party, and the trappers had not made more
than one or two camps before they discovered signs which
satisfied them of the neighborhood of an enemy. At
their next camp on the Sandy, Meek and Carson, with the
caution and vigilance peculiar to them, kept their saddles
on their horses, and the horses tied to themselves by a
long rope, so that 01 the least unusual motion of the ani-
mals they should be r'^adily informed of the disturbance.
Their i)recaution was not lost. Just after midnight had
given place to tne first faint kindling of dawn, their ears
were stunned by the simultaneous discharge of a hundred
[,uns, and the usual furious din of the war-whoop and yell.
A stampede immediately took place of all the horses ex-
cepting those of Meek and Carson. " Every man for himself
and God for u' all," is the motto of the mountain-man in
case of an Indian attack ; nor did our trappers forget it
200
INTERCEPTED BY CROWS A SCATTERED CAMP.
on this occasion. Quickly mounting, they put their horses
to their speed, which was not checked until they had left
the Sandy t'xv behind them. Continuing on in the direc-
tion of the proposed meeting with the St. Louis Company,
they made their first camp on the Sweetwater, where they
fell in with Victor, the Flathead chief, who had made his
way on foot to this place. One or two others came into
camp chat night, and the following day this portion
of the party traveled on in company until within about
five miles of Independence Rock, when they were once
more charged on by the Indians, who surrounded them in
such a manner that they were obliged to turn back to
escape. ^-s-*'
Again Meek and Carson made off, leaving their dis-
mounted comrades to their owr best devices. Finding
that with so many Indians on the trail, and only two horses,
there was little hope of being able to accomplish their
journey, these two lucky ones made all haste back to camp.
On Horse Creek, a few hours travel from rendezvous, they
came up wath Newell, who after losing his horse had fled
in the direction of the main camp, but becoming bewil-
dered had been roaming about until he was quite tired
out, and on the point of giving up. But as if the Creek
where he was found meant to justify itself for having so
inharmonious a name, one of their own horses, which had
escaped from the Cro<vs was found quietly grazing on its
banks, and the worn out fugitive at once remounted.
Strange as it may appear, not one of the party was killed,
the others returning to camp two days later than Meek
and Carson, the worse for their expedition only by the loss
of their horses, and rather an unusually fatigued and for-
lorn aspect.
THE APPROACH OF MISSIONARIES ANNOUNCED.
201 \
*ir
CHAPTER XV.
■yAfei^WP-^'M^^'^'^J**^ "
1836. While the resident partners of the consolidated
company waited at the rendezvous for the arrival of the
supply trains from St. Louis, word came by a messenger
sent forward, that the American Company under Fitzpat-
rick, bad reached Independence Rock, and was pressing
forward. The messenger also brought the intelligence
that two other parties were traveling in company with the
fur company ; that of Captain Stuart, who had been to
New Orleans to winter, and that of Doctor Whitman, one
of tlie missionaries who had visited the mountains the year
previous. In this latter party, it was asserted, there were
two white ladies.
This exhilarating news immediately inspired some of the
trappers, foremost among whom was Meek, with a desire
to be the first to meet and greet the on-coming caravan ;
and especially to salute the two white women who were
bold enough to invade a mountain camp. In a very short
time Meek, with half-a-dozen comrades, and ten or a dozen
Xez Perces, were mounted and away, on their self-imposed
errand of welcome ; the trappers because the}- were
"spoiling" for a fresh excitement; and the Nez Perces
because the missionaries were bringing them informntion
concerning the powerful and beneficent Deity of ihe white
men. These latter also were charged with a letter to
Doctor Whitman from his former associate, Mr. Parker.
On the Sweetwater about two days' travel from camp
m
kl
^pw
202 THE CARAVAN WELCOMED BY A PARTY OF TRAPPERS.
the caravan of the advancing company was discovered,
and the trappers prepared to give them a characteristic
greeting. To prevent mistakes in recognizing them, a
white flag was hoisted on one of their guns, and the word
was given to start. Tlien over the brow of a hill they
made their appearance, riding with that mad speed only
an Indian or a trapper can ride, yelling, whooping, dash-
ing forward with frantic and threatening gestures ; their
dress, noises, and motions, all so completely savage that
the white men could not have been distinguished from
the red. -■-
The first effect of their onset was what they probably
intended. The uninitiated travelers, including the mis-
sionaries, believing they were about to be attacked by
Indians, prepared for defence, nor could be persuaded that
the preparation was unnecessary until the guide pointed
out to them the white flag in advance. At the assurance
that the flag betokened friends, apprehension was changed
to curiosity and intense interest. Every movement of the
wild brigade became fascinating. On they came, riding
faster and faster, yelling louder and louder, and gesticu-
lating more and more madly, until, as they met and passed
the caravan, they discharged their guns in one volley over
the heads of the company, as a last finishmg feu dejoie;
and suddenly wheeling rode back to the front as wildly
as they had come. Nor could this first brief display con-
tent the crazy cavalcade. After reaching the front, they
rode back and forth, and around and around the caravan,
which had returned their salute, showing off their feats of
horsemanship, and the knowing tricks of their horses to-
gether ; hardly stopping to exchange questions and an-
swers, but seeming really intoxicated with delight at the
meeting. What strange emotions filled the breasts of the
lady missionaries, when they beheld among whom their
CURIOSITY OF THE INDIANS.
203
lot ^^as cast, may now be faintly outlined by a vivid
imagination, but have never been, perhaps never could be
put into words.
The caravan on leaving the settlements had consisted
of nineteen laden carts, each drawn by two mules driven
taadcni, and one light wagon, belonging to the American
Company ; two wagons with two mules to each, belonging to
Capt. Stuart; and one light two-horse wagon, and one foiir-
liorse freight wagon, belonging to the missionaries. How-
ever, all the wagons had been left behind at Fort Laramie,
except those of the missionaries, and one of Capt. Stuart's ;
so that the three that remained in the train when it reached
the S\veetwater were alone in the enjoyment of the Nez
Pcrces' curiosity concerning them; a curiosity which they
divided between them and the domesticated cows and
calves belonging to the missionaries: another proof, as
they considered it, of the superior power of the white
man's God, who could give to the whites the ability to tame
■wild animals to their uses.
But it was towards the two missionary ladies, Mrs. Whit-
man and Mrs. Spalding, that the chief interest was directed;
an interest that was founded in the Indian mind upon won-
der, admiration, and awe ; and in the minds of the trappers
upon the powerful recollections awakened by seeing in
their midst two refined Christian women, with the complex-
ion cand dress of their own mothers and sisters. United
to this startling effect of memory, was respect for the re-
ligious devotion which had inspired them to undertake the
long and dangerous journey to the Rocky Mountains, and
also a sentiment of pity for what they knew only too well
yet remained to be encountered by those delicate women
in the prosecution of their duty.
Mrs. Whitman, who was in fine health, rode the greater
part of the journey on horseback. She was a large, stately,
204
THE MISSIONARY LADIES.
fair-skinned woman, with blue eyes and light auburn, al-
most golden hair. Her manners were at once dignified
and gracious. She was, both by nature and education a
lady; and had a lady's appreciation of all that was cour-
teous and refined; yet not without an clement of romance
and heroism in her disposition strong enough to have
impelled her to undertake a missionary's life in the wil-
derness. "' rf
Mrs. Spalding was a different type of woman. Talented,
and refined in her nature, she was less pleasing in exterior,
and less attached to that which was superficially pleasing
in others. But an indifference to outside appearances was
in her case only a sign of her absorption in *\ie work she
had taken in hand. She possessed the true missionaiy
spirit, and the talent to make it useful in an eminent de-
gree; never thinking of herself, or the impression she
made upon others; yet withal very firm and capable of
command. Her health, which was always rather delicate,
had suffered much from the fatigue of the journey, and
the constant diet of fi'csh meat, and meat only, so that she
was compelled at last to abandon horseback exercise, and
to keep almost entirely to the light wagon of the mission-
aries. ■»
As might be expected, the trappers turned from the con-
templation of the pale, dark-haired occupant of the wagon,
with all her humility and gentleness, to observe and
admire the more striking figure, and more affably attractive
manners of Mrs. Whitman. Meek, who never lost an
opportunity to see and be seen, was seen riding alongside
Mrs. Whitman, answering her curious inquiries, and enter-
taining her with stories of Blackfeet battles, and encoun-
ters with grizzly bears. Poor lady ! could she have looked
into the future about which she was then so curious, she
would have turned back appalled, and have fled with fran-
PREPARATIONS IN THE INDIAN VILLAGE.
205
tic fear to the home of her grieving parents. How could
she then behold in the gay and boastful mountaineer,
whose peculiarities of dress and speech so much diverted
her, the very messenger who was to bear to the home of
her girlhood the sickening tale of her bloody sacrifice to
savage superstition and revenge ? Yet so had fate de-
creed it.
When the trappers and Nez Perces had slaked their thirst
for excitement by a few hours' travel in company with the
Fur Company's and Missionary's caravan, they gave at
length a parting display of horsemanship, and dashed off
on the return trail to carry to camp the earliest news. It
was OP their arrival in camp that the Nez Perce and Flat-
head village, which had its encampment at the rendezvous
ground on Green River, began to make preparations for
the reception of the missionaries. It was then that Indian
finery was in requisition ! Then the Indian women combed
and braided their long black hair, tying the plaits with
gay-colored ribbons, and the Indian braves tied anew
their streaming scalp-locks, sticking them full of flaunting
eagle's plumes, and not despising a bit of ribbon either.
Paint was in demand both for the rider and his horse. Gay
blankets, red and blue, buckskin fringed shirts, worked
with beads and porcupine quills, and handsomely embroi-
dered moccasins, were eagerly sought after. Guns were
cleaned and burnished, and drums and fifes put in tune.
After a day of toilsome preparation all was ready for
the grand reception in the camp of the Nez Perces. Word
was at length given that the caravan was in sight. There
was a rush for horses, and in a few moments the Indians
were mounted and in line, ready to charge on the advanc-
ing caravan. When the command of the chiefs was given
to start, a simulta,neous chorus of yells and whoops burst
forth, accompanied by the deafening din of the war-drum,
:j
! II
206
ENTHUSIASTIC RECEPTION.
the discharge of fire-arms, and the chatter of the whole
cavalcade, which was at once in a mad gallop toward the
on-coming train. Nor did the yelling, whooping, drum-
ming, and firing cease until within a few yards of the
train.
All this demoniac hub-bub was highly complimentary
toward those for whom it was intended ; but an unfortu-
nate ignorance of Indian customs caused the missionaries
to fail in appreciating the honor intended them. Instead
of trying to reciprocate the noise by an attempt at imitat-
ing it, the missionary camp was alarmed at the first burst
and at once began to drive in their cattle and prepare for
an attack. As the missionary party was in the rear of the
train they succeeded in getting together their loose stock
before the Nez Perces had an opportunity of making them-
selves known, so that the leaders of the Fur Company, and
Captain Stuart, had the pleasure of a hearty laugh at their
expense, for the fright they had received.
A general shaking of hands followed the abatement of
the first surprise, the Indian women saluting Mrs. Whitman
and Mrs. Spalding with a kiss, and the missionaries were
escorted to their camping ground near the Nez Perce en-
campment. Here the whole village again formed in line,
and a more formal introduction of the missionaries took
place, after which they were permitted to go into camp.
When the intention of the Indians became known, Dr.
Whitman, who was the leader of the missionary party, was
boyishly delighted with the reception which had been
given him. His frank, hearty, hopeful nature augured
much good from the enthusiasm of the Indians. If his
estimation of the native virtues of the savages was much
too high, he suffered with those whom he caused to suifer
for his belief, in the years which followed. Peace to the
ashes of a good man ! Aud honor to his associates, whose
li
f
MR. J^M) MRS. SPALULVG — MU. GHAY.
207
hearts -were in tho cause they had iindortakon of Christian-
ixinu: tho Iiulians. Two of them still live — one of whom,
Mr, Spalding, has conscientiously labored and deeply suf-
fered for the faith. Mr. Gray, who was an unmari-ied man,
retnrnod the following year to the States, for a wife, and
settled for a time among the Indians, but finally abandoned
the missionary service, and removed to the Wallamet val-
ley. These five persons constituted the entire force of
teaehors Avho could be induced at that time to devote
tlieir lives to the instruction of the savages in the neigh-
horliood of the Rocky Mountains.
The trappers, and gentlemen of the Fur Company, and
Captain Stuart, had been passive but interested s])ectators
of the scene between the Indians and the missionaries.
When the excitement had somewhat subsided, and the
various camps had become settled in tlieir places, the tents
of the white ladies were beseiged with visitors, both civil-
ized and savage. These ladies, who were making an en-
deavor to acquire a knowledge of the Nez Perce tongue
in order to commence their instructions in the language
of the natives, could have made very little progress, had
their purpose been less strong than it was. Mrs. Spalding
perhaps succeeded better than Mrs. Whitman in the diffi-
cult study of the Indian dialect. She seemed to attract
the natives about her by the ease and kindness of her
luaiiiicr, especially the native women, who, seeing she was
an invalid, clung to her rather than to her more lofty and
self-assorting associate.
On the contrary, the leaders of the American Fur Com-
pany, Captain Wyeth and Captain Stuart, paid Mrs. Whit-
man the most marked and courteous attentions. She shone
the bright particular star of that Rocky Mountain encam p-
m(;nt, softening the hearts and the manners of all who
came within her womanly influence. Not a gentlcmau
14
Hi
'^
208 WOMANLY INFLUENCES IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
umoiig tlicm but felt her siltMit eommaiul upon him to be
his better sell' wliile she rciiuiined in his vieinity ; not a
trapper or ciunp-kceper but respected the presence of
womanliood and piety. But while the leaders paid court
to her, the bashful trappers contented themselves with
promenading before her tent. Should they succeed in
catching her eye, they never failed to touch their beaver-
skin ca[)s in their most studiously graceful manner, though
that should prove so dubious as to bring a mischievous
smile to the blue eyes of the observant lady.
But our friend Joe Meek did not belong by nature to
the bashi'ul brigade. He was not content Avith disporting
himself in his best trapper's toggery in front of a lady s
tent. lie became a not infrequent visitor, and amused
Mrs. Whitman with the best of his mountain adventures,
related in his soft, slow, yet smooth and firm utterance,
and with many a merry twinkle of his mirthful dark eyes.
In more serious moments he spoke to her of the future,
and of his determination, sometime, to "settle down.'
When she inquired if he liad fixed upon any spot which
in his imagination he could regard as "home" he replied
that he could not content himself to return to civilized life,
but thought that when he gave up "bar fighting and In-
jun fighting" he should go down to the Wallamet valley
and see what sort of life he c mid make of it there. How
he lived up to th!s determination will be seen hereafter.
The missionaries remained at the rendezvous long enough
to recruit their own strength and that of their stock, and
to restore to something like health the invalid Mrs. Spald-
ing, who, on changing her diet to dried meat, which the
resident partners were able to supply her, commenced rap-
idly to improve. Letters were written and given to Capt
Wyeth to carry home to the States. The Captain had
completed his sale of Fort ITall and the goods it contained
1 i
S
TIIK MISSTOXAUIKS RKNEW TIIKIU JOURNEY.
200'
lollic Hudson's Bay Company only a sliort time provioiis,
and was now about to abandon tlui effort to establisli any
riitorprise cither on the Cohimbia, or in tlie Itocky Alonn-
tiiius. He had, liowevcr, executed his threat of the year
previous, and punislied the bad faith of the Kocky Moun-
tain Company by placing them in direct competition with
ihc Hudson's Bay Company.
Tlio missionaries now prepared for their journey to the
Columbia River. According to the advice of the moun-
tain-men the heaviest wagon was left at the rendezvous,
together with every heavy article that could be dispensed
with. But Dr. Whitman refused to leave the light wagon,
although assured he would never be able to get it to the
Columbia, nor even to the Snake River. The good Doc-
tor had an immense fund of determination when there was
an object to be gained or a principle involved. The only
per.sons Avho did not oppose wagon transportation were
the Indians. They sympathised with his determination,
and gave him their assistance. The evidences of a differ-
ent and higher civilization than they had ever seen were
held in great reverence by them. The wagons, the do-
mestic cattle, especially the cows and calves, were always
objects of great interest with them. Therefore they freely
gave their assistance, and a sufficient number remained
behind to hel]) tlie Doctor, while the main party of both
missionaries and Indians, having bidden the Fur Company
and others farewell, proceeded to join the camp of two
Ilndson's Bay traders a few miles on their way.
The two traders, whose camp they now joined, were
named McLeod and McKay. The latter, Thomas McKay,
was the half-breed son of that unfortunate McKav in Mr.
Aster's service, who perished on board the Tonquin^ as re-
lated in Irving's Astoria. He was one of the bravest
and most skillful partisans in the employ of the Hudson's
i-
!il^
210
TIIK CAMP OF TllK IHDtlUN S 1!AV TllADKHH.
Bay Company. McLcod liad mot tlio missionaries at the
Amoricaii rciidozvoiis and invited tluMU to travel in his
company; an oiler wliich they were glad to aecept, as it
secured tluMu ample protection and other more triflinir
benefits, besides some society other than the Indians.
By dint of great i)orseverance, Doctor Whitman con-
trived to keep up Avitli the camp day after day, though
often coming in very late and very weary, until the party
arrived at Fort Hall. At the fort the l)aggage was again
reduced as much as possible ; and Doctor Whitman was
compelled by the desertion of his teamster to take off two
wheels of his wagon and transform it into a cart wliicli
could be more easily propelled in diOicult places. With
this he proceeded as far as the Boise River where the
Hudson's Bay Company had a small fort or trading-post;
but here again he was so strongly urged to relinquish the
idea of taking his wagon to the Columbia, that after much
discussion he consented to leave it at Fort Boise until
some future time when unencumbered by goods or pas-
sengers he mighi :^e ■ urn for it.
Arrived at the cios^sing of the Snake River, Mrs. Whit-
man and Mrs. Spaldin x were treated to a new mode of fer-
riage, which even ni their varied experience they had
never before met with. This new ferry was nothing more
or less than a raft made of bundles of bulrushes woven
together by grass ropes. Upon this frail flat-boat the
passengers were obliged to stretch themselves at length
while an Indian swam across and drew it after him by a
rope. As the waters of the Snake River are rapid and
often " dancing mad," it is easy to conjecture that the
ladies were ill at ease on their bulrush ferry.
On went the party from the Snake River through the
Grand Ronde to the Blue Mountains. The crossing here
was somewhat difficult but accomplished in safety. The
THE MISSIONAIUKH LAND OF rUOMlSK.
211
descent from tlie Blue ^roiintiiiiis on the west sitlo jfnvG
tlie missionaries their first view of the country they lnui
come to ])Ossess, and to civilize ami Christianize. That
view was beautiful and grand — as goodly a [)r()S|)eet as
loiijj;iiig eyes ever beheld this side; of Canaan. Hcfoi-e
tlieia lay a country .s])read out like a map, with the wind-
ings of its rivers nmrked by fringes of trees, and its bound-
nries li.xed by mountain ranges above which towered the
snowy peaks of ^, ■ -; ,k;,~-, .
Mt. ih)od, Mt.
Adiuns, and Mt.
Riiinier. Far
iiway could be
traced the
course of the
Cohnnbia ; and
overall themag-
iiilieeiit scene
glowed the red
rays of sunset,
tinging the dis-
tant blue of the
mountains until
they seemed
shrouded in a
veil of violet
mist. Tt Avere
not strange that
with the r(»con- descending the blue mountains.
tion given them by the Indians, and with this bird's-eye
view of their adopted country, the hearts of the missiona-
ries beat high with hope.
The descent from the Blue Mountains brought the party
out on the Umatilla River, where they camped, Mr. McLeod
'M.
212
A VISIT TO FORT VANCOUVER — KIND RECEPTION.
!>'
parting company with tliem at this place to hasten for-
ward to Fort Walla- Walla, and prepare for their recep-
tion. After two more days of slow and toilsome travel
with cattle whose feet were cut and sore from the sharp
rocks of the mountains, the company arrived safely at
Walla- Walla fort, on the third of September. Here
they found Mr. McLeod, and Mr. Panbram who had charge
of that post.
]\Ir. Panbram received the missionary party with every
toker. of respect, and of pleasure at seeing ladies among
therj. The kindest attentions were lavished upon them
from the first moment of their arrival, when the ladies
were lifted from their horses, to the time of their depar-
ture ; the apartments belonging to the fort being assigned
to them, and all that the place aiforded of comfortable
living placed at their disposal. Here, for the first time in
several months, they enjoyed the luxury of bread — a favor
for which the suffering Mrs. Spalding was especially grate-
ful.
At Walla- Walla the missionaries were informed that
they were expected to visit Vancouver, the head-quarters
of the Hudson's Bay Company on the Lower Columbia,
After resting for two days, it was determined to make this
visit before selecting places for mission work among the
Indians. Accordingly the party embarked in the compa-
ny's boats, for the voyage down the Columbia, which
occupied six days, owing to strong head winds which were
encountered at a point on the LoTv'cr Columbia, called
Cape Horn. They arrived safely on the eleventh of Sep-
tember, at Vancouver, where they were again received
with the warmest hospitality by the Governor, Dr. John
McLaughlin, and his associates. The change from the
privations of wilderness life to the luxuries of Fort Van
couver was very great indeed, and two wov^ks passed rap-
ii
SELECTION OF MISSIONARY STATIONS.
213
idlv iway ill the enjoyment of refined society, and all
the oiher elegancies of the highest civilization.
At Uie enl of two weeks, Dr. Whitman, Mr. Spalding,
and ^^r. Gray returned to the Upper Columbia, leaving
the ladies at Fort Vancouver while they determined upon
their several locations in the Indian country. After an
absence of several weeks they returntid, having made their
selections, and on the thi^'d day of November the ladies
once more embarked to ascend the Columbia, to take up
their residence in Indian wigwams while their husbands
prepared rude dwellings by the assistance of the natives.
The spot fixed upon by Dr. Whit:'^an for his mission was
on the Walla- Walla River about thirty miles from the fort
of that name. It was called Waiilatpuj and the tribe
chosen for his pupils were the Cayuses, a hardy, active,
intelligent race, rich in horses and pasture lands.
Mr. Spalding selected a home on the Clearwater River,
among the Nez Perces, of whom we already know so
much. His mission was called Lapivai. Mr. Gr.iy went
among the Flatheads, an equally friendly tribe ; and here
\vc shall leave the missionaries, to return to the Rocky
Mountains and the life of the hunter and trapper. At a
futnre date we shall fall in once more with these devoted
people and learn whac success attended their efforts to
Christianize the Indians.
i
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'■ ^ m§k
rr
1
' ■ 1
'a
1
•
214
THE DEN OF RATTLESNAKES.
' "Mi]
)..
CHAPTER XVI.
183o, The company of men who went north 'ir*-! ■■■
under Bridger and Fontenclle, numbered nearly three
hundred. Rendezvous with all its varied excitemei.t;;;
being" over, this important brigade commenced its march.
According to custom, the trappers commenced business
ou the head-waters of various rivers^ fullowing them down
as the early frosts of the mountains forced them to do,
until finally they wintered in the plains, at the most
ftivored spots they could find in which to subsist them-
selves and animals.
From Green River, Meek proceeded with Bridger's com-
mand to LeAvis River, Salt River, and other tributaries of
the Snake, and camped with them in Pierre's Hole, that
favorite mountain valley which every yenr was visited by
the dilTerent fur companies.
Pie?Te's Hole, notwithstanding its beauties, had some re-
pulsive features, or rather perhaps one repulsive feature,
which was, its great numbers of rattlesnakes. Meek relates
that being once caught in a very violent thi >r'r storm,
he dismounted, and holding his horse, u fine c.j, by the
bridle, himself took shelter under a narrow shelf of rock
projecting from a precipitous blull". Directly he observed
an enormous rattlesnake hastening close by him to its den
in the mountain. Congratulating hin:seij ' i. his snake-
ship's haste to get out of the storm and !'..s vicinity, he
had only time to have one rejoicing thought when two or
-r«r
THE OLD FRENCHMAN.
215
)le, that .1;
ted by
ome re-
cature,
relates
storm,
by tlio
of roc;
jsorved
its del)
snake-
lity, be
two 01"
m
t1ii-ec others follow id the trail of the first one. Thev were
scekiiig the same rocky den, of whose proximity M(>ek
now felt uncomfortably assured. Before these were out
of sight, there came instead of twos and threes, tens and
twenties, and then hundreds, and finally Meek believjs
tliousands, the ground being literally alive with them.
Not daring to stir after he discovered the nature of his
situation, he was obliged to remain and endure the dis-
gusting anrl frightful scone, while he exerted himself to
keep bis horse quiet, lest the reptiles should attack him.
By and by, when there were no more to come, but all
were safe in their holes in the rock. Meek hastily mounted
and galloped in the fiice of the tempest in preference to
remaining longer in so unpleasant a neighborhood.
There Avas an old Frenchman among the trappers who
used to charm rattlesnakes, and handling them freely,
place them in his bosom, or allow them to wind about his
arras, several at a time, their flat heads extending in all
I'ircctions, and their bodies waving in the air, in the most
': ;aky and nerve-shaking nianner, to the infinite disgust
' '11 the camp, and of Hawkins and Meek in particular.
br' kins oi'teii became so nervous that he threatened to
shoot the Frenchman on the ir.stant, if he did not desist ;
and great was the dislike he entertained for what he term-
ed the " infernal old wizard."
It was often the case in th,; mountains and on the plains
that the camp was troubled with rattlesnakes, so that
each man on laying down to sleep found it necessary to
encivc'ic his bed with a hair rope, thus effectually fencing
out the reptiles, which are too fastidious and sensitive of
touch to crawl over a hair rope. But for this precaution,
the trapper must often have shared his blanket couch
with this foe to the " seed of the woman," who being
asleep would have neglected to " crush his head," recciv-
216
THE PRAIRIE DOG AND HIS TENANTS.
ing instead the serpent's fang in "his heel," if not in some
nol)ler portion of his body.
There is a common belief abroad that the prairie clog
liarl)()rs the rattlesnake, and the owl also, in his subterra-
nean house, in a more or less friendly manner. Meek,
liov, ^ver, who has had many opportunities of observing
the Lj >f these three ill-assorted denizens of a comraon
abode, ^ .s it as his opinion that the prairie dog consents
to the invasion of his premises alone through his inability
to prevent it. As these prairie dog villages are always
found on the naked prairies, where there is neither rocky
den for the rattlesnake, nor shade for the blinking eyes of
the owl, these two idle and impudent foreigners, availing
themselves of the labors of the industrious little animal
which builds itself a cool shelter from the sun, and a safe
one from the storm, whenever their own necessities drive
them to seek refuge from either sun or storm, enter unin-
vited and take possession. It is probable also, that so far
from being a welcome guest, the rattlesnake occasionally
gorges himself with a young prairie-dog, when other game
is not conveniently nigh, or that the owl lies in wait at the
door of its borrowed-without-leave domicile, and succeeds
in nabbing a careless field-mouse more easily than it could
catch the same game by seeking it as an honest owl should
do. The owl and the rattlesnake are like the Sioux when
they go on a visit to the Oniahas — the visit being always
timed so as to be identical in date with that of the Gov-
ernment Agents who are distributing food and clothing.
They arc very good friends for the nonce, the poor Oraa-
has not daring to be otherwise for fear of the ready ven-
geance on the next summer's buffiilo hunt ; therefore they
conceal iheir grimaces and let the Sioux eat them up ; and
when summer comes get massacred on their builalo hunt,
all the same.
ii
IP
THE BLACKFEET ATTACKED IN THEIll CAMP.
217
r.ut to return to our brigade. About the last of October
Bridii'c.'r's company moved down on to the Yellowstone by
a circuitous route through the North Pass, now known as
Hell Gate Pass, to Judith River, Mussel Shell River, Cross
Creeks of the Yellowstone, Three Forks of Missouri, Mis-
souri Lake, Beaver Head country. Big Horn River, and
thence east again, and north again to the wintering ground
iu the great bend of the Yellowstone.
The company had not proceeded far in the Blackfeet
country, between Hell Gate Pass and the Yellowstone,
before they were attacked by the Blackfeet. On arriving
at the Yellowstone they discovered a considerable encamp-
ment of the enemy on an island or bar in the river, and
proceeded to open hostilities before the Indians should
have discovered them. Making little forts of sticks or
l)uslies, each man advanced cautiously to the bank over-
looking the island, pushing his leafy fort before him as he
crept silently nearer, until a position was reached whence
firing could commence witli effect. The first intimation
the luckless savages had of the neighborhood of the whites
was a volley of shots discharged into their camp, killing
several of their number. But as this was their own mode
of attack, no reflections were likely to be wasted upon the
unfairness of the assault; quickly springing to their arms
the firing was returned, and for several hours was kept up
on both sides. At night the Indians stole off, having lost
nearly thirty killed; nor did the trappers escape quite un-
hurt, three being killed and a few others wounded.
Since men were of such value to the fur companies, it
■would seem strange that they should deliberately enter
upon an Indian fight before being attacked. But unfortu-
nate as these encounters really were, :hey knew of no
other policy to be pursued. They, (the American Com-
panies,) were not resident, with a long acquaintance, and
• I
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I
218
THE TRAPPERS POLICY OF WAR.
settled policy, such as rendered the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany so secure amongst the savages. They knew that
among these unfriendly Indians, not to attack was to bo
attacked, and consequently little time was ever given for
an Indian to discover his vicinity to a trapper. The trap-
per's shot informed him of that, and afterwards the race
was to the swift, and the battle to the strong. Besides
this acknowledged necessity for fighting whenever and
wherever Indians were met with in the Blackfeet and Crow
countries, almost every trapper had some private injury to
avenge — some theft, or wound, or imprisonment, or at the
very least, some terrible fright sustained at the hands of
the universal foe. Therefore there was no reluctance to
shoot into an Indian camp, provided the position of the
man shooting was a safe one, or more defensible than that
of the win shot at. Add to this that there was no law in
the mountains, only license, it is easy to conjecture that
might would have prevailed over right with far less incen-
tive to the exercise of savage practices tlian actually did
exist. Many a trapper undoubtedly shot his Indian "for
the fun of it," feeling that it was much better to do so than
run the risk of being shot at for no better reason. Of this
class of reasoners, it must be admitted. Meek was one.
Indian-fighting, like bear -fighting, had come to be a sort
of pastime, in which he was proud to be known as highly
accomplished. Having so many opportunities for the dis-
play of game qualities in encounters with these two by-no-
means-to-be despised foes of the trapper, it was not often
that they quarreled among themselves after the grand frolic
of the rendezvous was over.
It happened, however, during this autumn, that while
the main camp was in the valley of the Yellowstone, a
party of eight trappers, including Meek and a comrade
named Stanberry, were trapping together on the Mussel
aj Com-
lew that
t^as to be
^iven for
Che trap-
the race
Besides
3ver and
md Crow
injury to
or at the
hands of
ctance to
Qn of the
than that
no law in
ture that
ess incen-
;ually did
lian "for
.0 so than
Of this
was one.
je a sort
as highly
the dis-
,vo bv-no-
not often
and frolic
at while
wstone, a
comrade
e Mussel
4
r...
''i; '
A DUEL AVERTED,
219
Shell, wlioii the question as to Avliicli was the bravest man
rrot istiirtod between them, and at length, in the heat of
controversy, assumed such importance that it was agreed
to settle tlie matter on the following day according to the
Vii'it'i Ilia code of honor, i. 6., by fighting a duel, and shoot-
ing at each other Avith guns, which hitherto had only done
execution on bears and Indians.
but some listening spirit of the woods determined to
avert the danger from these two equally brave trappers,
aiul save their ammunition for its legitimate use, by giving
tlieni occasion to [)rove their courage almost on the instant.
While sitting around the camp-fire discussing the coming
event of the duel at thirty paces, a huge bear, already
Avounded by a shot from the gun of their hunter who was
out looking for game, came running furiously into camp,
giving each man there a challenge to fight or fly.
''Now," spoke up one of the men quickly, ''let Meek
and Stanberry prove Avhich is bravest, by fighting the
bear!" "Agreed," cried the two as quickly, and both
sprang with guns and wiping-sticks in hand, charging upon
the infuriated beast as it reached the spot where they were
awaiting it. Stanberry was a small man, and Meek a large
one. Perhaps it was owing to this difference of stature
that ^leek was first to reach the bear as it advanced. Run-
ning up with reckless bravado Meek struck the creature
two or three times over the head with his wiping-stick
before aiming to fire, which however he did so quickly
and so surely that the beast fell dead at his feet. This act
settled the vexed question. Nobody was disposed to dis-
pute the point of courage with a man who would stop to
strike a grizzly before shooting him : therefore Meek was
proclaimed by the common voice to be "coc v of the walk"
in that camp. The pipe of peace was solemnly smoked
by himself and Stanberry, and the tomahawk buried never
• \
220
A RUNAWAY BEAU.
more to be resurrected between them, while a fat snpper
of bear meat celebrated the compact of everlasting amity,
It was not an unfreqiicnt occurrence for a grizzly bear
to be run into camp by the hunters, in the Yellowstone
country where this creature abounded. An amusing inci-
dent occurred not long after that just related, when tiio
whole camp was at the Cross Creeks of the Yellowstone,
on the south side of that river. The hunters were out,
and had come upon two or three bears in a thicket. As
these animals sometimes Avilldo, they started off' in a great
fright, running toward camp, the hunters after them, yell-
ing, frightening them still more. A runaway bear, like a
runaway horse, appears not to see where it is going, but
keeps right on its course no matter what dangers lie in
advance. So one of these animals having got headed for
the middle of the encampment, saw notliing of Avhat lay
in its way, but ran on and on, apparently taking note of
nothing but the yells in pursuit. So sudden and unex-
pected Avas the charge which he made ui)on camp, that
the Indian women, wdio were sitting on the ground engaged
in some ornamental work, had no time to escape out of the
way. One of them Avas thrown down and run over, and
another was struck Avith such violence that she was thrown
twenty feet from the spot where she was hastily attemptin?'
to rise. Other objects in camp were upset and thrown out
of the way, but without causing so much merriment as the
mishaps of the two women who were so rudely treated by
the monster.
It was also while the camp was at the Cross Creeks of
the Yellowstone that Meek had one of his best fought bat-
tles with a grizzly bear. He was out with two compan-
ions, one Gardiner, and Mark Head, a Shawnee Indian.
Seeing a very large bear digging roots in the creek bot-
tom, Meek proposed to attack it, if the others would hold
A (jlUIZZLV AT CLOSE Ql'AUTElJS.
221
his horse ready to mount if he failed to kill the creature.
Tliis l)oiiig agreed to he advanced to within about forty-
paces of his game, when he raised his gun and Jittempted.
to fire, but the cap bursting he only roused the beast,
which turned on him with a terrific noise between a snarl
and a growl, showing some fearful looking teeth. Meek
turned to run for his horse, at the same time trying to put
a cap on his gun ; but when he had almost reached his
comrades, their horses and his own took fright at the bear
now close on his heels, and ran, leaving him alone with the
i^ow fully infuriated beast. Just at the moment he suc-
ceeded in getting a cap on his gun, the teeth of the bear
closed on his blanket capote which was belted around the
waist, the suddenness and force of the seizure turning him
around, as the skirt of his capote yielded to the strain
and tore off at the belt. Being now nearly face to face
SATISFIED WITH BEAR FIGHTING.
f t
with his foe, the intrepid trapper thrust his gun into the
b.STlSFIKD WITH IJKAll I'KJHTINO.
croaturc's mouth and attempted again to fire, but the gun
being doubh^ triggered and not sot, it failed to go oil'.
Perceiving the dilViculty he managed to set tlic triggers
with the gun still in the bear's mouth, yet no sooner was
this done than the bear succeeded in knocking it out, and
firing as it sli})ped out, it hit her too low dcjwn to inflict a
fatal wound and only served to irritate her still farther.
In this desperate situation when Meek's brain was rap-
idly working on the problem of live !Meek or live bear,
two fresh actors appeared on the scene in the persons of
two cubs, who seeing their mother in dilhculty ^enicd
desirous of doing something to assist her. Tliei near-
ance seemed to excite the bear to new exeriiuiis, for
she made one desperate blow at Meek's empty gun with
which he was defending himself, and knocked it out of his
hands, and fiir down iha bank or sloping hillside whore
the struggle was now going on. Then being partially
blinded by rage, she seized one of her cubs and began to
box it about in a most unmotherly fashion. This diversion
gave j\Ieck a chance to draw his knife from the scabbard,
with wliich he endeavored to stab the bear behind the
ear : but she was too quick for him, and with a blow struck
it out of his hand, as she had the gun, nearly severing his
forefinger.
At this critical juncture the second cub interfered, and
got a boxing from the old bear, as the first one had done.
Tills too, gave Meek time to make a movement, and loosen-
ing his tomahawk from his belt, he made one tremen-
dous effort, taking deadly aim, and struck her just behind
the ear, the tomahawk sinking into the brain, and his
powerful antagonist lay dead before him. When the blow
was struck he stood with his back against a little bluff of
rock, beyond which it was impossible to retreat. It was
his last chance, and his usual good fortune stood by him.
WINTEU-QUAUTEUa ON POWDEJl KlVEll.
22J
When tlio struggle was over the weary victor mounted
the rock behind him and k)oked down upon his enemy
sliiiu; and ''came to the couulusiuii that he was satisfied
with bar-lighting."
But renown had sought him out even here, alone with
hi* lifeless antagonist. Ca|)t. Stuart with his artist, Mr.
Miller, chanced upon this very spot, while yet the con-
([iiei'ur contemplated his slain enemy, and taking posses-
sion at once of the bear, whose skin was afterward preserved
and sliitruil, made a portrait of the "sat' lied" slayer. A
picture was subsequently painted by Miller of this scene,
;uid was copied in wax for a museum in St. Louis, where
it probably remains to this day, a monument of Meek's
best bear fight. As for Meek's runaway horse and run-
away comrades, they returned to the scene of action too
late to be of the least service, except to furnish our hero
with transportation to camp, which, considering the weight
of his newly gathered laurels, was no light service after
all
lu November Bridger's camp arrived at the Bighorn
River, expecting to winter ; but finding the buffalo all gone,
were obliged to cross the mountains lying between the
Bighorn and Powder rivers to reach the bulHilo country
on the latter stream. The snow having already fallen
quite deep on these mountains the crossing was attended
with great difficulty ; and many horses and mules were
lost by sinking m the snow, or falling down precipices
made slippery by the melting and freezing of the snow on
the narrow ridges and rocky benches along which they
were forced to travel.
About Christmas all the company went into winter-quar-
ters on Powder River, in the neighborhood of a company
of Bonneville's men, left under the command of Antoine
Montero, who had established a trading-post and fort at
15
I
i: ,1
! i
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■■j:.^
224
BONNEVILLE S MSN ROBBED.
t '
this place, h jping, no doubt, that here they should be
comparatively safe from the injurious competition of the
older companies. The appearance of three hundred men,
who had the winter before them in which to do mischief,
was therefore as unpleasant as it was unexpected; and
the result proved that evcnMontero, who was Bonneville's
experienced trader, could not hold his own agaiiicl so
numerous and expert a band of marauders as Bridgtr's
men, assisted by the Crows, proved themselves to be ; for
by the return of spring Montero had very little remaining;
of the property belonging to the fort, nor anything to sho\v
for it. This mischievous war upon Bonneville was promrt-
ed partly by the usual desire to cripple a rival trader,
which the leaders encouraged in tlieir men ; but in some
individual instances far more by the desire for revengp
upon Bonneville personally, on account of his censurej
passed upon the members of the Monterey expedition,
and on the v/ays of mountain-men generally.
About the first of January, Fontenelle, wUh four men,
and Captain Stuart's party, left camp to go to St. Lci
for supplies. At Fort Laramie Fontenelle committed sui-
cide, in a fit of mania apotu, and his men returned to
camp with the news.
DISSIPATION IN CAMP.
225
! :i
CHAPTER XVII.
1837. The fate of Fonteiielle should have served as a
warnins: to his associates and fellows. ' Should have done '
however, are often idle words, and as sad as they are idle ;
they match the poets 'might have been,' in their regret-
ful 'inpotency. Perhaps there never was a winter camp
in tiie mountams more thoroughly demoralized than that
of Bridger during the months of January ond February.
Added to the whites, who were reckless enough, were a
considerable party of Delaware and Shawnee Indians, ex-
cellent allies, and skillful hunters and trappers, but having
the Indian's love of strong drink. " Times were pretty
good in the mountains," according to the mountain-man's
notion of good tines ; that is to say, beaver was plenty,
caraji large, and alcohol abundant, if dear. Under these
fivorable circumstarce much alcohol was consumed, and
its ir^uence was felt in the manners no< only of the trap-
pers, white and red, but also upon the neighboring In-
dians.
The Crows, who had for two years been on terms of a
sort of semi-amity with the whites, found it to their in-
terest to conciliate so powerful an enemy as the American
Fur Company was now become, and made frequent visits
to the camp, on which occasion they usually succeeded in
obtaining a taste of the fire-water oi' which they were in-
ordinately fond. Occasionally a trader was permitted to
sell licjuor to the whole village, when a scene took place
r
'iji
f —
'1 '
If
22G
A CROW CAROUSAL — PICKED CROWS.
whose peculiar horrors wore wholly iudcscribablo, from the
inability of language to convey an adequate idea of its
hellisli degradation. When a trader sold alcohol to a
village it was understood both by himself and the Indians
what was to follow. And to secure the trader against in-
jury a certain number of warriors were selected out of
the village to act as a police force, and to guard the trader
during the 'drunk' from the insane passions of his cus-
tomers. To the police not a drop was to be given.
This being arranged, .^nd the village disarmed, the ca-
rousal began. Every individual, man, woman, and child,
w^as permitted to become intoxicated. Every form of
drunkenness, from the simple stupid to the silly, the he-
roic, the insane, the beastly, the murderous, displayed
itself The scenes which were then enacted beggared de-
scription, as they .shocked the senses of even the hard-
drinking, license-loving trappers who witnessed them.
That they did not "point a moral" for these men, is the
strangest part of the whole transaction. " .tl""
When everybody, police excepted, was drunk as drunk
could h(\ the trader began to dilute his alcohol with water,
until finally his keg contained water only, slightly flavored
by the washings of the keg, and as they continued to
drink of it without detecting its weak quality, they finally
drank themselves sober, and were able at last to sum up
the cost of their intoxication. This was generally nothing
less than the whole property of the village, added to which
were not a few personal injuries, and usually a few mur-
ders. The village now being poor, the Indians were cor-
respondingly humble ; and were forced to begin a system
of reprisal by stealing and making war, a course for which
the traders were prepared, and which they avoided by
leaving that neighborhood. Such were some of the sins
and sorrows for which the American fur companies were
mm
NIGHT VISIT TO THE BLACKFOOT VILLAGE.
227
answerable, and which detracted seriously from the re-
spect that the courage, and other good qualities of the
morntain-mcn freely commanded.
By the first of March these scenes of wrong and riot
v,'evc over, for that season at least, and camp commenced
moving back toward the Blackfoot country. After re-
crossing the mountains, passing the Bighorn, Clarke's, and
Rosebud rivers, they came upon a Blackfoot village on
the Yellowstono^ which as usual they attacked, and a bat-
tle ensued, in which Manhead, captain of the Delawares
was killed, another Delaware named Tom Hill succeeding
him in command. The fight did not result in any great
loss or gain to either party. The camp of Bridger fought
its way past the village, which was what thoy must do, in
order to proceed.
Meek, however, was not quite satis^'^d with the punish-
ment the Blackfeet had received foi ihc killing of Man-
head, who had been in the fight with him when the Ca-
mancbes attacked them on the plains. Desirous of doing
something on his own account, he induced a comrade
named LeBlas, to accompany him to the village, after night
had closed over the scene of the late contest. Stealing
into the village with a noiselessness equal to that of one
of Fcnniraore Cooper's Indian scouts, these two daring
trappers crept so near that they could look into the lodges,
and see the Indians at their favorite game of Hand. In-
ferring from this that the savages did not feel their losses
very severely, they determined to leave some sign of their
visit, and wound their enemy in his most sensitive part,
the horse. Accordingly they cut the halters of a number
of the animals, fastened in the customary manner to a
stake, and succeeded in getting oiF with nine of them,
which property they proceeded to appropriate to their
own use. ^ ' :■ ■ •• ■ -. ' • -^
:0\4l
^PP'
228
STANLEY, THE INDIAN PAINTER.
As the spring and summer advanced, Bridger's brigade
advanced into the mountains, passing the Cross Creek of
the Yellowstone, Twenty-five- Yard River, Cherry River,
and coming on to the head-waters of the Missouri spent the
early part of the summer in that locality. Between Gal-
latin and Madison forks the camp struck the great trail of
the Blackfeet. ^leek and Mark Head had fallen four or
five days behind camp, and being on this trail felt a good
deal of uneasiness. This feeling was not lessened by
seeing, on coming to Madison Fork, the skeletons of two
men tied to or suspended from trees, the flesh eaten off
their bones. Concluding discretion to be the safest pari
of valor in this country, they concealed themselves by dny
and traveled by night, until camp was finally reached
near Henry's Lake. On this march they forded a flooded
river, on the back of the same mule, their traps placed on
ihe other, and escaped from pursuit of a dozen yell'.ijg
savages, who gazed after them in astonishment; "taking
their mule," said Mark Head," to be a beaver, and them-
selves great medicine men. " That," said Meek, "is what
I call 'cooning' a river."
From this point Meek set out wath a party of thirty or
forty trappers to travel up the river to head-waters, accom-
panied by the famous Indian painter Stanley, whose party
was met with, this spring, traveling among the mountains.
The party of trappers were a day o^ two ahead of the
main camp when they found themselves following close
after the big Blackfoot village which had recently passed
over the trail, as could be seen l)y the usual signs; and
also by the dead bodies strewn .'long the trail, victims of
that horrible scourge, the small pox. The village was evi-
dently fleeing to the mountains, lioping to rid itself of the
plague in their colder and more salubrious air.
Not long after coming upon these evidences of prox-
brigade
Ureck of
y River,
ipent the
een Gal-
t trail of
a four or
it a good
ened by
IS of two
3aten off
ifest pari
;s by dny
reached
[I flooded
)laced on
1 yeir.iig
"taking
id them-
"is what
thirty or
s, accom-
Dse party
ountains.
. of the
11 g close
y passed
lis; and
ctlms of
was evi-
'If of the
of prox-
DESPERATE FIGHT WITH BLACKFEET.
229
■1 ''
[
1
1
1 5
1 ^
1 ^
s
, ■<
ii T;
mm
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1^
1 W
^
Hyii
^ V,
iiiiity to an enemy, a party of a hundred and fifty of their
warriors were discovered encamped in a defile or narrow
hottoiii enclosed by high blulfs, through which the trap-
pers Avould have to pass. Seeing that in order to pass this
war i)arty, and the village, which was about half a mile in
tidvance, there would have to be some fighting done, the
trappers resolved to begin the battle at once by attacking
their enemy, who was as yet ignorant of their neighbor-
hood In pursuance of this determination, Meek, Newell,
Mansfield, and Le Bias, commenced hostilities. Leaving
their horses in camp, they crawled along on the edge of
tlie overhanging bluff until opposite to the encampment
uf Blackfect, fii'ing on them from the shelter of some
buslies which grew among the rocks. But the Blackfeet,
though ignorant of the number of their enemy, were not
to be dislodged so easily, and aftef an hour or two of ran-
dom shooting, contrived to scale the bluff at a point higher
up, and to get upon a ridge of ground still higher than
that occupied by the four trappers. This movement dis-
lodged the latter, and they hastily retreated through the
bushes and returned to camp.
The next day, the main camp having come up, the fight
was renewed. While the greater body of the company,
with the pack-horses, were passing along ti.e high bluff
ovcrlianging them, the party of the day before, and forty
or fifty others, undertook to drive the Indians out of the
bottom, and by keeping them engaged allow the train to
pass in safety. The trappers rode to the fight on this oc-
casion, and charged the Blackfeet furiously, they having
joined the village a little farther on. A general skirmish
now took place. Meek, who was mounted on a fine horse,
was in the thickest of the fight. He had at onci time a
side to side race with an Indian who strung his bow so
,■'■6.
230
THE TRAPPERS LAST SHOT.
hard that tlie an'ow dropped, just as Mock, who had loaded
his giin ruiiiiiiig, was ready to fire, and the Indian dropped
after his arrow.
Newell too had a desperate conflict with a half-dead
warrior, who having fallen from a wound, he thought dead
and was trying to scalp. Springing from his liorse he
seized the Indian's long thick hair in one hand, and with
his knife held in the other made a pass at the scalp, when
the savage roused up knife in hand, and a struggle took
place in which it was for a time doubtful which of the
combatants would part with the coveted scalp-lock. New-
ell might have been glad to resign the trophy, and leave
the fallen warrior his tuft of hair, but his fingers were in
some way caught by some gun-screws with which the sav-
age had ornamented his coiffure^ and would not part com-
pany. In this dilemma there was no other alternative but
fight. The miserable savage was dragged a rod or two in
the struggle, and finally dispatched. "i-;^
Mansfield also got into such close quarters, surrounded
by the enemy, that he gave himself up for lost, and called
out to his comrades: "Tell old Gabe, (Bridgcr,) that old
Cotton (his own sobriquet) is gone." He lived, however,
to deliver his own farewell message, for at this critical
juncture the trappers were re-inforced, and relieved. Still
the fight went on, the trappers gradually working their
way to the upper end of the enclosed part of the valley,
past the point of danger.
Just before getting clear of this entanglement Meek be-
came the subject of another picture, by Stanley, who was
viewing the battle from the heights above the valley.
The picture which is well known as "The Trapper's Last
Shot," represents him as he turned upon his horse, a fine
and spirited animal, to discharge his last shot at an Indian
■. i
A TALK WITH LITTLE-ROHE.
231
pursuing, wliile in the bottom, at a little distance away,
other Indians arc seen skulking in the tall reedy grass.
The last shot having been discharged with fatal effect,
our trapper, so persistently lionized by painters, put his
horse to his. utmost speed and soon after overtook the
camp, which had now passed the strait of danger. But
the Blackfeet were still unsatisfied with the result of the
contest. They followed after, reinforced from the village,
and attacked the camp. In the fight which folloAved a
Blackfoot woman's horse was shot down, and Meek tried
to take her prisoner : but two or three of her people com-
■i
4j
"AND THEREBY HANGS A TAIL.
ing to the rescue, engaged his attention ; and the woman
was saved by seizing hold of the tail of her husband's
horse, which setting off at a run, carried her out of
danger.
The Blackfeet found the camp of Bridger too strong
for them. They were severely beaten and compelled to
retire to their village, leaving Bridger free to move on.
The following day the camp reached the village of Little-
Robe, a chief of the Peagans, who held a talk with Bridger,
'■iyf^-.}
"^.a..
232
AN INDUN IN THE WIIONQ CAMP.
complaining that his nation were all perishing from the
Hniall-[)ox which had been given to them by the whites.
Bridgcr was able to explain to Little-Robe his error; in-
asmuch as although the disease might have originated
among the whites, it was conununicated to the Blackfeet
by Jim Bcckwith, a negro, and principal chief of their
enemies the Crows. This unscrupulous wretch had caused
two infected articles to be taken from a Mackinaw boat,
up from St. Louis, and disposed of to the Blackfeet—
whence the horrible scourge under which they were suf-
fering.
This matter being explained, Little-Robe consented to
trade horses and skins ; and the two camps parted amica-
bly. The next day after this friendly talk, Bridger being
encamped on the trail in advance of the Blackfeet, an In-
dian came riding into camp, with his wife and daughter,
pack-horse and lodge-pole, and all his worldly goods, un-
aware until he got there of the snare into which he had
fallen. The French trappers, generally, decreed to kill
the man and take possession of the woman. But Meek,
Kic Carson, and others of the American trappers of the
better sort, interfered to prevent this truly savage act
Meek took the woman's horse by the head, Carson the
man's, the daughter following, and led them out of camp.
Few of the Frenchmen cared to interrupt either of these
two men, and they were suffered to depart in peace.
When at a safe distance. Meek stopped, and demanded as
some return for having saved the man's life, a present of
tobacco, a luxury which, from the Indian's pipe, he sus-
pected him to possess. About enough for two chews was
the result of this demand, complied with rather grudg-
ingly, the Indian vieing with the trapper in his devotiou
to the weed. Just at this time, owing to the death of
,.» i
n
MR. GRAY AND UlS ADVENTURK8.
233
Fontcncllo, and a consequent delay in receiving supplies,
tobacco was scarce among the mountaineers.
Bridgcr's brigade of trappers met with no other serious
iulerniptions on their summer's march. They proceeded
to Henry's Lake, and crossing the Rocky Mountains, trav-
eled tlu-ough the Pine Woods, always a favorite region, to
Lewis' Lake on Lewis' Fork of the Snake River; and
linally up the Grovant Fork, recrossing the mountains to
Wind River, where the rendezvous for this year was ap-
pointed.
Here, once more, the camp was visited by a last years'
acquiuutance. This was none other than Mr. Gray, of the
Flathead Mission, who was returning to the States on bus-
iness connected with the missionary enterprise, and to
provide himself with a helpmeet for life, — a co-laborer
and sull'erer in the contemplated toil of teaching savages
the rudiments of a religion difficult even to the compre-
liensiou of an old civilization.
Mr. Gray was accompanied by two young men (whites)
who wished to return to the States, and also by a son of
one of the Flathead chiefs. Two other Flathead Indians,
and one Iroquois and one Snake Indian, were induced to
accompany Mr. Gray. The undertaking was not without
danger, and so the leaders of the Fur Company assured
him. But Mr. Gray was inclined to make light of the
danger, having traveled with entire safety when under the
protection of the Fur Companies the year before. He
proceeded without interruption until he reached Ash Hol-
low, iu the neighborhood of Fort Laramie, when his party
was attacked by a large band of Sioux, and compelled to
accept battle. The five Indians, with the whites, fought
bravely, killing fifteen of the Sioux, before a parley was
obtained by the intervention of a French trader who
4: !,i
1 i'i
234
WASHACUE OF Mil. GRAY H INDIAN ALLIES.
chanced to be am()n«^ the Sioux. When Mr. Graywaa
able to hold a 'talk' with the attacking party he was as-
sured that his life and that of his two white associates
would be spared, but that they wanted to kill the strange
Indians and take their fine horses. It is not at all proba-
ble that Mr. Gray consented to this sacrifice; though he
has been accused of doing so.
No doubt the Sioux took advantage of some hesi-
tation on his j)art, and rushed upon his Indian allies in an
unguarded moment. However that may be, his allies
were killed and he was allowed to escape, after giving up
the property belonging to them, and a portion of his own.
This affair was the occasion of much ill-feeling towarti
."Mr. Gray, when, in the following year, he returned to the
mountains with the talc of massacre of his friends and his
own escape. The mountain-men, although they used theii
influence to restrain the vengeful feelings of the Flathead
tribe, whis[)ercd amongst themselves that Gray had pre-
ferred his own life to that of his friends. The old Flat-
head chief too, who had lost a son by the massacre, was
hardly able to check his impulsive desire for revenge; for
he held Mr. Gray rcsponsiljle for his son's life. Nothing more
serious, however, grew out of this unhappy tragedy than a
disaffection among the tribe toward Mr. Gray, which made
his labors useless, and finally determined him to remove to
the Wallamet Valley.
There were no outsiders besides Gray's party at the ren-
dezvous of this year, except Captain Stuart, and he was
almost as good a mountaineer as any. This doughty
English traveler had the bad fortune together with that
experienced leader Fitzpatrick, of being robbed by the
Crows in the course of the fall hunt, in the Crow country.
These expert horse thieves had succeeded in stealing
CAPT. STUART IIOHIIKD MY THE CUOWS.
235
noarly all the horsos holDiiging to tho joint camp, and had
so di.siil>l(!d tho company that it could not procc(;d. In
this einergoncy, Newell, who had long been a sub-trader
1111(1 was wise in Indian arts and wiles, was sent to hold a
talk with the thieves. The talk was held, according to
custom, in the the Medicine lodge, and the usual amount
of smoking, of long silences, and grave looks, had to be
piirtic'ipatcd in, before the subject on hand could be ©on-
sidercd. Then the chiefs complained as usual of wrongs
at tho hands of the white men ; of their fear of small-pox,
from which some of their tribe had suffered ; of friends
killed in battle with tho whites, and all the list of ills that
Cr( w flesh is heir to at the will of their white enemies.
Tho women too had their complaints to proffer, and the
number of widows and orphans in the tribe was pathetic-
ally sot forth. The chiefs also made a strong point of
this latter complaint ; and on it the wily Newell hung
his hopes of recovering the stolen property.
" It is true," said he to the chiefs, " that you have sus-
tained heavy losses. But that is not the fault of the Blan-
ket chief (Bridger.) If your young men have been killed,
they were killed when attempting to rob or kill our Cap-
tain's men. If you have lost horses, your young men have
stolen five to our one. If you are poor in skins and other
property, it is because you sold it all for drink which did
you no good. Neither is Bridger to blame that you have
had the small-pox. Your own chief, in trying to kill your
enemies the Blackfeet, brought that disease into the coun-
try.
" But it is true that } ou have many widows and orphans
to support, and that is bad. I pity the orphans, and will
help you to support them, if you will restore to my cap-
tain the property stolen from his camp. Otherwise
Bridger will bring more horses, and plenty of ammuni-
I'*)
mf^
236
newf:ll's address to the chow chiefs.
tion, and there will bo more widows and orphans amonc
the Crows than evb^ before."
This was a kind of logic easy to understand and cjiiick
to conviii e among savages. The bribe, backed by a threat,
settled the question of the restoration of the horses, which
were returned w^ithout further delay, and a present of
blankets arif] trinkets was given, ostensibly to the bereaved
women, really to the covetous v^'^iefs.
■;»■•
■;/f»"
DECLINE OF THE FUR TRADE.
23T
CHAPTER XVIII.
■.•/4 ■
1837. The decline of the business of hunting furs be-
gftii to be quite obvious about this time. Besides the
American and St. Louis Coippanies, and the Hudson's Bay
Company, there "weic rxumerous lone traders with whom
the ground was divided. The autumn of this year was
spent hy the American Company, as formerly, in trapping
beaver on the streams issuing from the eastern side of the
Rocky Mountains. When the cold weather finally drove
the Fur Company to the plains, they went into winter
quarters once more in the r.eip-bborhood of the Crows on
Powder River. Here were re-enacted the wild scenes of
the previous winter, both trappers and Indians being
given up to excesses.
On the return of spring, Bridger again led his brigade
all through the Yellowstone country, to the streams on
the north side of the Missouri, to the head-waters of that
rivev; and finally rendezvoused on the north fork of the
Yellowstone, near Yellowstone Lake. Though the amoiint
of furs taken on the spring hunt was considerable, it was
hy no means equal to former years. The fact was becom-
ing apparent that the beaver was being rapidly extermin-
ated.
However there was beaver enough in camp to furnish
the means for the usual profligacy. Horse-racing, betting,
gamhling, drinking, were freely indulged in. In the
midst of this " fun," there appeared at the rendezvous Mr.
S '^kH'
! K a
fi. ' % J!i-
238
A MISSIONARY PART f — A WAR DANCE.
Gray, novf accompanied by ^Irs. Gray and six other mission-
ary ladies I'nd gentlemen. Here also were two gentlemen
from the ]\'L'thodist mission on the Wallamet, who were
returning to the States. Captain Stuart was still traveling
with the Fur Company, and was also present with hi?
party ; besides which a Hudson's Bay trader named Ema-
tinger was encamped near by. As if actuated to extra-
ordinary displays by the unusual number of visitors, espe-
cially the four ladies, both trappers and Indians conducted
themselves like the mad-caps they were. The Shawnees
and Delawares danced their great war-dance before the
tents of the missionaries ; and Joe Meek, not to be out-
done, arrayed himself in a suit of armor belonging to Cap-
tain Stuart and strutted about the encampment ; then
mounting his horse played the part of an ancient kiiight,
^ lib. a good deal of eclat.
Meek had not abstained from the alcohol kettle, but had
oifered it and partaken of it rather more freely than usual;
so that when rendezvous was broken up, the St. Louis
Company gone to the Popo Agio, and the American Com-
pany going to Wind River, he found that his wife, a Nez
Perce who had succeeded Umentucken in his affections,
had taken offence, or a fit of homesickness, which wui
synonymous, and departed with the party of Ematinger
and the missionaries, intending to visit her people at
Walla- Walla. This desertion wounded Meek's feelings;
for he prided himself on his courtes^' to the sex, and did
not like to think that he had not behaved handsomely.
All the more was he vexed with himself because his spouse
had carried with her a pretty and sprightly baby-daugh-
ter, of whom the father was fond and proud, and who had
been christened Helen Mar, after one of the heroines of
Miss Porter's Scottish Chiefs — a book much admired in
the mountain^, as it has been elsewhere.
PURSUIT OF A RUNAWAY SPOUSE.
239
Tlicroforc at the first camp of the American Company,
Meek resolved to turn his back on the company, and go
after the motlicr and daughter. Obtaining a fresh kettle
of alcohol, to keep up his spirits, he left camp, returning
toward the scene of the late rendezvous. But in the eftbrt
to keep up his spirits he had drank too much alcohol, and
the result was that on the next morning he found himself
alone on the Wind River Mountain, with his horses and
pack mules, and vciy sick indeed. T.alving a little more
alcohol to brace up his nerves, he stnrted on again, pass-
ing around the mountain on to the Sweetwater ; thence to
the Sand}', and thonce across a country without water for
seventy-live miles, to Green River, where the camp of Ema-
tingcr was overtaken.
The heat 'was excessive ; and the absence of water made
the journey across the arid plain between Sandy and
Green Rivers one of great suffering to the traveler and
his animals ; and the more so as the frequent references to
the alcohol kettle only increased the thirst-fev(5r instead
of allaying it. But Meek was not alone in suffering.
About half way across the scorching plain he discovered a
solitaiy woman's figure standing in the trail, and two
riding horses near her, whose drooping heads expressed
their dejection. On coming up with this strange group,
Mock found the woman to be one of the missionary ladies,
a Mrs. Smith, and that her husband was lying on the
ground, djing, as the poor sufferer believed himself, for
water.
Mrs. Smith made a weeping appeal to Meek for water
for her dying husband ; and truly the poor woman's situ-
ation was a pitial)le one. Behind camp, with no protec-
tion from the perils of the desert and wilderness — only a
terrible care instead — the necessity of trying to save her
husband's life. A 3 no water was to be had, alcohol was
16
.i:l
■..%
'■.(- 1;-
240
MKEK ABUSKS A MISSIONAllV
ofleretl to the famishing man, who, however, could not Lo
aroused from his stupor of wretchedness. Seeing that
death really awaited the unlucky missionary unless some-
thing could be done to cause him to exert himself, Meek
commenced at once, and with unction, to abuse the man
for his unm.inliness. His style, thougli not very refined,
was certainly very vigorous.
"You're a pretty fellow to be lying on the
ground here, lolling your tongue out of your mouth, and
trying to die. Die, if you want to, you're of no account
and will never be missed. Here's your wife, who you
are keeping standing here in the hot sun ; why don't she
die ? She's got more pluck than a white-livered chap like
you. But I'm not going to leave her waiting here for
you to die. Thar's a band of Indians behind on the trail,
and I've been riding like — to keep out of their way.
If you want to stay here and be scalped, you can stay;
Mrs. Smith is going with me. Come, modam," continued
Meek, leading up her horse, " let me help you to mount,
for we must get out of this cursed country as fast as pos-
sible."
Poor Mrs. Smith did not wish to leave her husband; nor
did she relish the notion of staying to be scalped. Despair
tugged at her heart-strings. She would have sunk to the
ground in a passion of tears, but Meek was too much in
earnest to permit precious time to be thus wasted. " Get
on your horse," said he rather roughly. " You can't save
your husband by staying here, crying. It is better that
one should die than two ; and he seems to be a worthless
dog anyway. Let the Indians have him."
Almost lifting her upon the horse. Meek tore the dis-
tracted woman away from her husband, who had yet
strength enough to gasp out an entreaty not to be left
AND KIDNAPS HIS WIFE.
211
"You can fcjllow us if you chouse," said the apparently
merciless trapper, "or you can stay where you arc. Mrs.
Smith can find plenty of better men than you. Come,
in;i(liuu ! " and he gave the horse a stroke with his riding-
whip which started him into a rapid pace.
The unhnppy wife, whose conscience reproached her
for leaving her husband to die alone, looked back, and
saw liim raising his head to gaze ai>-er them. Her grief
broke out afresh, and she would ha^e gone back even
then to remain with him : but Meek was firm, and again
started up her horse. Before they were quite out of sight.
Meek turned in his saddle, and beheld the dying man sit-
ting up. "Hurrah;" said he: "he's all right. He Avill
overtake us in a little Avhilc : " and as he predicted, in
little over an hour Smith came riding up, not more than
half dead by this time. The party got into camp on
Green River, about eleven o'clock that night, and Mrs.
Smith having told the story of her adventures with the
unknown trapper who had so nearly kidnaped her, the
laugh and the cheer went round among the company.
"That's Meek," said Ematinger, "you may rely on that.
He's just the one to kidnap a woman in that way." When
Mrs. Smith fully realized the service rendered, she was
ahuridantly grateful, and profuse were the thanks which
oiu' trapper received, even from the much-abused husband,
who Avas noAV thoroughly alive again. Meek failed to
persuade his Avife to return with him. She was homesick
for her people, and Avould go to them. But instead of
turning back, he kept on Avith Ematinger's camp as far as
Fort Hall, Avhich post Avas then in charge of Courtenay
Walker.
While the camp was at Soda Springs, Meek observed
the missionary ladies baking bread in a tin reflector before
ii lire. Bread Avas a luxu'y unknown to the mountain-
242
MEEKS BLACK-EYED DAT'OHrEK.
man, — and as a sudden recollection of liis boyhood, and
the days of bread-and-butter came over him, his month
began to water. Almost against his will he continued to
hang round the missionary camp, thinking about the bread.
At length one of the Nez Perces, named James, whom the
missionary had taught to sing, at their request struck up
a hymn, which he sang in a very creditable manner. As
a reward of his pious proficiency, one of the ladies gave
James a biscuit. A bright thought struck our longing
hero's brain. ''Go back," said ho to James, "and sing
another hymn ; and when the ladies give you another bis-
cuit, bring it to me." And in this manner, he obtained a
taste of the coveted luxury, bread — of which, during nine
years in the mountains he had not eaten.
At Fort Hall, Meek parted company with the missiona-
ries, and with his wife and child. As the little black-eyed
daughter took her departure in company with this new
element in savage life, — the missionary society, — her fa-
ther could have had no premonition of the fate to whieli
the admixture of the savage and the religious elements
was step by step consigning her. - ii>^,.
After remaining a few days at the fort. Meek, who found
some of his old comrades at this place, went trapping Avith
them up the Portneuf, and soon made up a pack of one
hundred and fifty beaver-skins. These, on returning to
the fort, he delivered to Jo. Walker, one of the American
Company's traders at that time, and took Walker's receipt
for them. He then, with Mansfield and Wilkins, set out
about the first of September for the Flathead country,
where Wilkins had a wife. In their company was an old
Flathead woman, who wished to return to her people, and
took this opportunity.
The weather was still extremely warm. Tt had been
a season of great drought, and the streams were nearly
A FKXnVlih MARCH — INTKIv'Sl^ ISUFFEIMXG.
243
nil on(ir(ily dried up. The first night out, the horses,
(,ii;lit ill iiuiidtcr, stra}'ed olF in search of water, and were
1((>,',. Now coininenced a day of fearful sufferings. No
water had been found since leaving the fort. The loss of
llic hoi-scs made it necessary for the company to separate
1(1 look for them; Mansfield and Wilkins going in one di-
rection, Meek and the old Flathead woman in another.
The little coolness and. moisture which night had imparted
to the atmosphere was quickly dissipated by the unchecked
ravs of th*^' pitiless sun shining on a dry and barren plain,
wiili not a vestige of verdure anywhere in sight. On
aiitl on went the old Flathead woman, keeping always in
tiic advance, and on and on followed Meek, anxiously
scanning the horizon for a chance sight of the horses.
Higher and higher mounted the sun, the temperature in-
creasing in intensity until the great plain palpitated with
radintod heat, and the horizon flickered almost like a
llame where the burning heavens met the burning earth.
Meek had been drinking a good deal of rum at the fort,
which circumstance did not lessen the ten'ible consuming
thirst that was torturing him. ,
Noini came, and passed, and still the heat and the suffer-
ing increased, the fever and. craving of hunger being now
added to that of thirst. On and on, through the whole
of that long scorching afternoon, trotted the old Flathead
woman in the peculiar traveling gait of the Indian and the
mountaineer, Meek following at a little distance, and go-
ing mad, as he thought, for a little water. And mad he
probably was, as famine sometimes makes its victims.
When night at last closed in, he laid down to die, as the
missionary Smith had done before. But he did not re-
member Smith: he only thought of water, and heard it
running, and fancied the old woman was lapping it like a
\volf. Then he rose to follow her and find it ; it was al-
f
244
TKE OLD FLATHEAD WOMAN — WATER AT LAST.
ways just ahead, aud the woman was howling to him to
show him the trail.
Thus the night passed, and in the cool of the early
morning he experienced a little relief. lie was really
following his guide, wlio as on the day before was trottiiifj
on ahead. Then the thought possessed him to overtake
and kill her, hoping from her shriveled body to obtain a
morsel of ft)od, and drop of moisture. But his strength
was failing, and his guide so far ahead that he gave np
the thought as involving too great exertion, continuing
to follow her in a helpless aud hopeless kind of way.
At last ! There was no mistake this time : he heard
running water, and the old woman loas lapping it like a
wolf With a shriek of joy he ran and fell on his face
in the water, which was not more than one foot in depth,
nor the stream more than fifteen feet wide. But it had a
white pebbly bottom ; and the water was clear, if not very
cool. It was something to thank God for, which the none
too religious trapper acknowledged by a fervent " Thank-
God!"
For a long time he lay in the water, swallowing it, and
by thrusting his linger down his throat vomiting it up
again, to prevent surfeit, his whole body taking in the
welcome moisture at all its million pores. The fever
abated, a feeling of health returned, and the late perish-
ing man was restored to life and comparative happiness.
The stream proved to be Godin's Fork, and here Meek
and his faithful old guide rested until evening, in the
shade of some willows, where their good fortune was
completed by the appearance of Mansfield and Wilkins
with the horses. The following morning the men found
and killed a fat buffalo cow, whereby all their wants were
supplied, and good feeling restored in the little camp.
From Godin's Fork they crossed over to Salmon River,
mm
m
ARRIVAL AT THE INDIAN VILLAGE.
245
and presently struck the Ncz Perce trail which loads from
tliat river over into the Beaver-head country, on the
Dcaver-head or .Tellerson Fork of the Missouri, where
tlicre was a Flathead and Nez Perce village, on or about
the present site of Virginia City, in Montana.
Not stopping long here. Meek and his companions went
on to the Madison Fork with the Indian village, and to
the shores of Missouri Lake, joining in the fall hunt for
bufliilo.
n^,
ih^.y
24G
BUFFALO iiU.NXLNU.
CHAPTER XIX.
u
h
i
1
" Tell me all about a biiffiilo hunt," said the writer to
Joe Meek, as we sat at a \ iiidow overlooking the Colum-
bia River, where it has a beautiful stretch of broad waters
and curving wooded shores, and talking about mouutain
life, " tell me how you used to hunt buffalo."
" Waal, there is a good deal of sport in runnin' buffalo.
When the camp discovered a band, then every man that
wanted to run, made haste to catch his bufililo horse. We
sometimes went out thirty or forty strong ; sometimes two
or three, and at other times a large party started on the
hunt ; the more the merrier. Wo alway had groat banter-
ing about our horses, each man, according to his own
account, having the best one.
" When we fwst start we ride slow, so as not to alarm
the buffalo. The nearer we come to the band the greater
our excitement. The horses seem to feel it too, and are
worrying to be off When we come so near that the band
starts, then the word is given, our horses' mettle is up,
and away we go !
" Thar may be ten thousand in a band. Directly we
crowd them so close that nothing can be seen but dust,
nor anything heard but the roar of their trampling and
bellowing. The hunter now keeps close on their heels to
escape being blinded by the dust, which does not rise as
high as a man on horseback, for thirty yards behind the
animals. As soon as we are close enough the firing begins,
I * ? i-!
'm
I -t r~i
'i:
'.:vv'
;iS?
THE PURSUIT — THE CHAUOE — TUMBLES.
247
mid iIk' 1)1111(1 is on tl»o run; and a In^rdof buHulocun run
iihoiit iis last as a good race-horse. How they do thunder
iildiif;! They give us a pretty sliarp race. Talce care!
Down <:()es a rider, and away goes his horse with the band.
Do you think we stopped to k>ok after the fallen m.an?
Not wo. Wo rather thought that war fun, and if he got
killi'il, why, 'he war unlucky, that wai* all. Plenty more
jufii : couldn't bother about him.'
"Tliar's a fat cow ahead. I force my way through tlie
build to come up with her. The bulfalo crowd around so
ditit I have to put my foot on them, now on one side, now
the otiier, to keep them off my horse. It is lively work,
1 ciin tell you. A man has to look shar[) not to be run
down by the band pressing him on ; builalo and horse at
the top of their speed.
"Look out ; thar's a ravine ahead, as you can see by the
])liiiigc which the band makes. Hold uj) ! or somebody
goes to the d — 1 now. If the band is large it lills the
ravine full to the brim, and the hindmost of the herd pass
over on top of the foremost. It requires horseman-
ship not to be carried over without our own consent ; but
then we mountain-men are all good horsemen. Over the
ravine we go ; but we do it our own way.
"We keep up the chase for about four miles, selecting our
game as we run, and killing a number of flit cows to each
man ; some more and some less. "When our horses are
tired we slacken up, and turn back. We meet the camp-
keepers with pack-horses. They soon ])utchcr, pack up
the meat, and we all return to camp, whar we laugh at
each other's mishaps, and eat fat meat : and this constitutes
the glory of mountain life."
" But you were going to tell me about the buffalo hunt
at Missouri Lake ?"
" Thar isn't much to telL It war pretty much like other
,'! . 'ill
.•*;>
248
A HUNT WITH THE INDIANS.
Lufluhj liunts. Tliar war a lot of ns trappers happened to
l>o at a Ncz Pei-cc and r'latliead village in the lall of '38,
\v\wi\ they war aguiu' te- kill winter meat; and as their
hunt lay in the direction we war going, Ave joined in. Tlie
old Ncz Perce chief, Kow-e-so-te hud command of ihe vil-
lage, and W(! trappers had to obey him, too.
" We started oil' slow; nobody war allowed to go ahead
of camp. In this manner we cansed the bullalo 'o move
on before us. I'ut not to be alarmed. AYe war eight or ien
days traveling from the Boa,ver-head to Missouri Lake, and
by the time we got tiiar, the whole plain around the lake
war crowded with bufialo, and it war a splendid sight!
"In the morning the old chief hnrangued the men of his
village, and ordered us all to get ready for the surround,
.A.bout nine o'clock every man war mounted, and we began
to move.
"That v^ar a sight to make a man's blood warm! A
thousand men, all trained hunters, on horseback, carrying
their gMns, and with their horses painted in the height of
Indians' fashion. We advanced until within about half a
mile o^ the herd ; then the chief ordered us to deploy to
the right and left, until the wings of the column extended
a long way, and advance again.
"By this time the buffalo war all moving, and we had
come to within a hundred yards of them. Kow-e-so-te then
gave us the word, and away we went, pell-mell. Heavens,
what a charge ! What a rushing and roaring — men shoot-
ing, buffalo I allowing and trampling until the earth shook
under them !
"It war the work of half an hour to slay ivfn thousand
or may be three thousand animals. When the work was
over, we took a view of the field. Here and there and
evervwhere, laid the slain buffalo. Occasionallv a horse
with a broken leg war seen ; or a .an with a broken arm;
or maybe he had fared worse, and hdd a broken head.
KIT CARSOX AND THE FRENCHMAN.
' 219
"Now came out the women of the village to liolj) ns
liiit •lier and pack np the meat. It war a l)ig jol) ; bnt wo
war not long about it. By nigl^ the camp war full of
meat, and everybody merry. Bridger's camp, which war
passing that way, traded with the village for lifteen huu-
(Irod buffalo tongues — the tongue l)eing reckoned a choice
|iart (if the animal. And that's the way we helped the
Xcz Forces hunt buffalo."
'' l)!it when you were hunting for your own subsistence
in camp, you sometimes went out in small parties?"
" Oh yes, it war the same thing on a smaller scale. One
time Kit Carson and myself, and .1 little Frenchnum, named
Marteau, went to run buffalo on Powder River. When
wc came in sight of the band it war agreed that Kit and
the Frenchman should do the running, and I should -^tiiy
witii the pack animals. The weather war very cold and I
(.lidii't like my part of the duty much.
"The Frenchman's horse couldn't run; so I lent h'm
mine. Kit rode his own ; not a good buffalo horse eith<;r,
In running, my horse fell with the Frenchman, and nea.ly
Idlled him. Kit, who couldn't make his horse catch,
jumped off, and caught mine, and tried it again. This
time he came up with the band, and killed four fat cows.
" When I came up with the pack-animals, I asked Kit
lioAv ho came by my horse. lie explained, and wanted to
know if I had seen anything of Marteau : said my horse
hail fallen with him, and he thought killed him. ' You
go over the other side of yon hill, and see,' said Kit.
" What'U I do with him if he is dead ?" said I.
'•Can't you pack him to camp?"
" Pack — " said I ; " I should rather pack a load of
meat."
"Waal," said Kit, " I'll butcher, if you'll go over and
see, anyhow."
250
MOUNTAIN MANNERS.
"So I went over, and found the dead man leaning liis
head on his hand, and groaning ; for he war pretty bad
hurt. I got him on his horse, though, after a while, and
toolv liim back to whar Kit war at worlv. We soon finislipd
the butchering job, and started back to camp with our
wounded Frenchman, and tliree loads of fat meat."
" You were not very conipaysionate toward each other,
in the mountains?"
" Thjit war not our business. We had no time for sncli
things. Besides, live men war what we wanted; df.v:
ones war of no account."
r t
THE SOLITARY TRAPPEU.
251
CHAPTER XX.
1838. From Missouri Lake, Monk started alone for the
Galliitiu Fork of the Missouri, trapping in a mountain
basin called Gardiner's Hole. Beaver were plenty here,
but it wu-i getting late in the season, and the weather was
cold in tiic mountains. On his return, in another basin
culled the Burnt Hole, he found a buffalo skull; and
knowing tba' Bridgcr's camp would soon pass that way,
wrote on it the number of beaver he had taken, and also
lii.^ intention to go to Fort Hall to sell them.
In a few days the camp passing found the skull, which
grinned its threat at the angry Booshways, as the chuck-
ling trapper had calculated that it would. To prevent its
execution runners were sent after him, who, however,
failed to find him, and nothing was known of the supposed
renegade for some time. But as Bridger passed through
Pierre's Hole, on his way to Green river to winter, he was
surjirisod at Meek's appearance in camp. He was soon
invited to the lodge of the Booshways, and called to ac-
count tor his .supposed apostacy.
Meek, for a time, would neither deny nor confess, but
put on his free trapper airs, and laughed in the fiice of
the Booshways. Bridger, who half Huspccted some trick,
took the maUor lightly, but Dripps was very much an-
noyed, and n»ade some threats, at which Meek only
laugluHJ the more. Finally the certificate from their own
imder, Js> Walker, was produced, the irnw pack of furs
mimm
252 AMONG THE NEZ PEUCES ASKING FOR A WIFE.
surrendered, and Dripps' wrath turned into smiles of aii-
proval.
Here again Meek parted company with the main camp,
and went on an expedition Avith seven other trappers, un.
der Jolm Larison, lo the Sahnon River: but found the
cold very severe on this journey, and the grass scarce and
poor, so that f.he company lost most of their horses.
On arriving at the Nez Perce village in the Forks of
the Salmon, Meek found the old chief Kow-e-so-te full of
the story of the missionaries and their religion, and anx-
ious to hear preaching. Reports were continually arriv-
ing by the Indians, of the wonderful things which were
Ix'ing taught by Mr. and Mrs. Spalding at L^pwai, on the
Clearwater, and at Waiilatpu, on the Walla- Walla River
It was now nearly two years since these missions had been
founded, r.nd the number of converts among the Nez
Perces and Flatheads was already considerable.
Here was an opening for a theological student, such as
Joe Meek was! After some little assumption of modesty.
Meek intimated that he thought himself capable of giv-
ing instruction on religious subjects ; and being pressed
by the chief, finally consented to preach to Xoiv-e-so-ta
people. Taking care first to hold a private council with
his associates, and binding them not to betray him, Meek
preached his first sermon that evening, going regularly
through with the ordinary services of a "meeting."
These services were repeated whenever the Indian-
se'.nned to desire it, until Chrstraas, Then, the village
being about to start upon a hunt, the preacher took occa-
sion to intimate to the chief that a wife would be an
agreeable present. To this, however, Kow-e-so-te (de-
murred saying that Spalding's religion did not perait
men to have two wives : that the Nez Perces had many
of them given up their wives ou this account ; and that
rOLYGAMY DEFENDED — VIKGINF \.
253
tlioroi'iio, since Meuk already had one wife among the Nez
IVircs, he conhl not have nnotlicr witliont being i'alsc to
tlio rehgion he professed.
To this perfectly clepr argument Meek replied, that
iMiioiig white men, if a man's wife left him without his
consent, as his had done, he could procure a divorce, and
take another wife. Besides, he could tell him how the
hihlc related many stories of its best men having several
wives. But Kow-€-so-fe was not easily convinced. He
could not see how, if the Bible approved of polygamy,
Spalding should insist on the Indians putting away all
l)ut one of their wives. "However," says Meek, "after
aliout two weeks' explanation of the doings of Solomon
and David, I succeeded in getting the chief to give me a
young girl, Avhom I called Virginia ; — my present wife,
and the mother of seven children."
After acconjpanying the Indians ai their hunt to the
Beavor-head country, where they found plenty of buffalo,
Meek remained with the Nez Perce village until about the
first of March, when he again intimated to the chief that
it was the custom of white men to pay their preachers.
Accordingly the people were notified, and the winter's
salary began to arrive. It amounted altogetlier to thir-
tcoii horses, and many packs of beaver, beside sheep-skins
and buffalo-robes ; so that he " considered that with his
young wife, he had made a pretty good winter's work
of it."'
In March ho net out trapping again, in company with
ono of his comrades named Allen, a man to whom he was
much attached. They traveled along up and down the
Salmon, to Godin's Biver, Henry's Fork of the Sinike, to
Pierre's Fork, and Lewis' Fork, and the Muddy, and
liiially set their trap^ on a little stream that runs out of
llio pass which leads to Pierre's Hole.
wm
n^
254
SURPRISED BY RLACKFEET DEATH OF ALLEN.
Leaving tlieir camp one moniinp^ to take up their traps,
they were discovered and attacked hy a party of Black-
feet just as they came near tlie trapping ground. The only
refuge at liand w»s a thickest of willows on the opposite
side of the creek, and towards this the trappers directed
their flight. Meek, who was in advance, succeeded in
gaining the thicket without being seen ; l)ut Allen stum-
bled and fell in crossing the stream, and wet his gun. He
cpiickly recovered his footing and crossed (ver; but the
Blackfeet had seen him enter the thicket, and came up to
within a short distance, yet not approaching too near the
place where they knew he was concealed. Unfortunately,
Allen, in his anxietj to be ready for defense, commenced
snapping caps on his gun to dry it. The quick ears of the
savages caught the sound, and understood the meaning
of it. Knowing him to be defenceless, they plunged into
the thicket after him, shooting him almost immediately,
and dragging him out still breathing to a small prairie
about two rods awny.
And now commenced a scene which Meek was com-
pelled to witness, and wliich he declares nearly made him
insane through sympathy, fear, horror, and suspense as to
his own fate. Those devils incarnate deliberately cut up
their still palpitating victim into a hundred pieces, each
taking a piece; accompanying the horrible and inhuman
butchery with every conceivable gesture of contempt for
the victim, and of hellish delight in their own acts.
Meek, who was only concealed by the small patch of
willows, and a pit in the sand hastily scooped out with
his knife until it was deep enough to lie in, was in a state
of the most fearful excitement. All day long he had to
endure the horrors of his position. Every moment seemed
an hour, eveiy hour a day, until Avhen night came, and the
Indians left the place, he was in a high state of fever.
THE LAST RENDEZVOUS.
255
About nine o'clock that night ho vonturod to crcop to
till' cdi^e of the little prairie, where he lay and listened a
liMiir time, without hearing anything but the squirrels
niiiiiiiig over the dry leaves; but which he constantly
loured was the stealthy approach of the enemy. At last,
however, he summoned courage to crawl out on to the open
(rroiiiid, and gradually to work his way to .a wooded blulT
not fur distant. The next day he found two of his horses,
and with these set out alone for Green River, where the
American Company was to rendezvous. After twenty-six
(lays of solitary and cautious travel he r"ached the ap-
])(iinied place in safety, having suffered fearfully from the
recollection of the tragic scene lie had witnessed in the
death of his friend, and also from L^oli" do and want of
food.
The rendezvous of this year was at Bonneville's old
fort on Green River, and was the last one held in the
mountains by the American Fur Company. Beaver was
crowing scarce d competition was strong. On the dis-
l)anding of the o-jjupany, some went to Santa Fe, some to
f'alifurnia, others to the Lower Columbia, and a few re-
mained in the mountains trap])ing, and selling their furs
to the Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Hall. As to the
leaders, some of them continued for a few years longer to
trade with the Indians, and others returned to the States,
to lose their fortunes more easily far than they made them.
Of the men who remained in the mountains trapping,
that year. Meek was one. Leaving his wife at Fort Hall,
he set out in company with a Shawnee, named Big Jim,
to take beaver on Salt River, a tributary of tht Snake.
The two trappers had each his riding and his pack horse,
and at night generally picketed them all ; but one night
Big Jim allowed one of his to remain loose to graze.
This horse, after eating for some hours, came back and
17
' ' :M
25G
COLD AND STARVATION.
laid down boliind the other horses, and every now and
then raised up liis head ; whieh slight movement at leiigtli
aroused Big Jim's attention, and his suspicions also.
"My friend," said he in a whisper to Meek, "Indian
steal our horses."
"Jump up and shoot," was the brief answer.
Jim shot, and ran out to see the result. Directly he
came back saying: "My friend, I slioot my horse; break
him neck ;" and Big Jim became disconsolate over what
his white comrade considered a very good joke.
The hunt was short and not very remunerative in furs.
Meek soon returned to Fort Hall ; and when he did so,
found his new wife had left that post in company with a
party under Newell, to go to Fort Crockett, on Green
River, — NewelFs wife being a sister of Virginia's,— on
learning which he started on again alone, to join that party.
On Bear lliver, he fell in with a portion of that Quixotic
band, under Farnhaui, which was looking for paradise and
perfection, something on the Fourier plan, somewhere in
this western wilderness. They had already made the dis-
covery in crossing the continent, that perfect disinterest-
edness was lacking among themselves; and that the
nearer they got to their western paradise the farther olf it
seemed in their own minds.
Continuing his jounT-y alone, soon nfter parting from
Farnhara, he lost the hi "nmer of Ills gun, wiiich accident
deprived him of the m lans of subsisting himself, and he
had no dried meat, nor provisions of any kind. The
Aveather, too, was very cold, increasing the necessity for
food to support animal heat. llovv(3ver, the deprivation
of food was one of the accidents to which mountain-men
were constantly liable, and one from which he had often
suffered severely; therefore ho pushed on, without feeling
any unusual alarm, and had arrived within fifteen miles
SETTING UP IN TRADE,
257
of ili(! fort before ho yielded to the feeling of oxhanstion,
and laid down beside the trail to rest. Whether he would
ever Iiiivc finished the journey alone ho could not tell ; but
tortimiitcly for him, he was discovered by Jo Walker, and
Gordon, another acquaintance, who chanced to pass that
wav toward the fort.
Meek answered their hail, and inquired if they had any-
.'liin'!" to eat. Walker replied in the affirmative, and got-
tiiif down from his horse, produced some dried bulValo
meat which he gave to the famishing trapper. But seeing
tlit> ravenous manner in which he began to eat. Walker
iiKliiirod how long it had been since he had eaten any-
thin;^.
" Five days since I had a bite."
" Then, my man, you can't have any more just now," said
Walker, seizing the meat in alarm lest Meek should kill
liiinsolf.
"It was hard to see that meat packed away again," says
Meek in relating his sufferings, " I told Walker that if my
gun had a hammer I'd shoot and eat him. But he talked
very kindly, and helped me on my horse, and we all went
on to the Fort." ■
At Fort Crockett were Newell and his party, the remain-
der of Farnham's party, a trading party under St. Clair, who
owned the fort. Kit Crrson, and a number of Meek's former
associates, including Craig and Wilkins. Most of these
men, Othello-like, had lost their occupation since the dis-
banding of (ho American Fur Company, and were much at
a loss concerning the futiii'e. It was agreed betwen Newell
and Meek to lake what beaver they had to Fort Hall, to
trade for goods, and return to Fort Crockett, where they
wonld commence business on their own account with the
Indians.
Accordingly they set out, with one other man belonging
i'1
258
A CASK OF CON'SCIKNCK.
1
. 1
to Fiirnhairi's former adliorcMits. Tluiv traveled t(j IIonrv'>
Fork, to lilack Fork, wliore Fort Hri(l<i:cr now is, to Bear
River, to Soda Springs, and finally to Fort Hall, siiU'ciiii"
much from cold, and finding very little to eat l)y thewav.
At Fort Hall, which was still in charge of Courteiiav
Walker, Meek and Newell remained a week, when, liaviiifr
purchased their goods and horses to pack them, theyoiuv
more set out on the long, cold journey to Fort Crockett,
They had fifteen horses to take care of and only one assist-
ant, a Snake Indian called Al. The return proved lui
arduous and ditTicult undertaking. The cold was very sp
vere; they had not been able to lay in a sufiicient stock of
provisions at Fort llall, and game there was none, on tliu
route. By the time they arrived at Ham's Fork the oiilv
atom of food they had left was a small piece of bacon whicli
they had been carefully saving to eat with any poor meat
they might chance to find.
The next morning after camping on Ham's Fork was
stormy and cold, the snow filling the air ; yet Snake Al,
with a promptitude by no means characteristic of him, rose
early <and went out to look after the horse.s.
"By that same token," said Meek to Newell, "Al lias
eaten ihe bacon." And so it proved, on investigation.
Al's uneasy conscience having acted as a goad to stir him
up to begin his duties in season. On finding his corijec
ture confirined. Meek declared his intention, should no
game be found before next day night, of killing and eat-
ing Al, to get back the stolen bacon. But Providence
interfered to save Al's bacon. On the following afternoon
the little party fell in with another still sualler but better
supplied party of travelers, comprising a Frenchman and
his wife. These had plenty of fat antelope meat, wliicli
they freely parted with to the needy ones, whom also they
accompanied to Fort Crockett.
WAR UPON HOIIHK THIKVES.
259
It was now ('liristnms; and tho fostivilios wliicli look
pliit'c iit the Fort were attended with a good deal of rnni
tlriiikin,!^', in wl)irh Meek, aeeording to Ills custom, joined,
;iii(l as a considerable portion of their stock in trade
consisted of this article, it may fairly be presumed that ,
tlic hoine consumption of these two "h^ne traders"
ainoiuitod to the larger lialf of what they had with so
imicli trotd)le trans[)()rted from Fort Hall. In fact, "times
were l)ad enough " among the men so suddeidy thrown
ii])iiii tlieir own resources among the mountains, at a time
when tliat little creature, which had made mountain lii'e
tolerable, or possible, was fast being exterminated.
To make matters more serious, some of the worst of tho
now unemployed trappers had taken to a life of thieving
and iiiischicf which made enemies of the friendly Indians,
and was likely to prevent the better disposed from enjoy-
ing security among any of the tribes. A party of these
renegades, under a man named Thompson, went over to
Snake River to steal horses from the Ncz Pcrees. Not
suceoediiig in this, they robbed the Snake Indians of about
forty animals, and ran them off' to the Uintee, the Indians
following and complaining to the whites at Fort Crockett
that their people had been robbed by wdiite trappers, and
deiiKuiding restitution.
Aecordin; . ■ "^ndian law, when one of a tribe offends,
tlie whole ti"ibe i- responsible. Therefore if whites stole
their horses tiiey iuight take vengeance on any whites they
met, unless the property was restored. In compliance
with this well understood requisition of Indian law, a party ^
was made up at Fort Crockett to go and retake the horses, f
and restore them to their rightful owners. This party
consisted of Meek, Craig, Newell, Carson, and twenty-five
others, under the command of Jo Walker.
The horses were found on an island in Green K-iver, the
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(716) 872-4503
260
GREEN RIVER CANYON.
robbers having domiciled themselves in an old fort at the
mouth of the Uintee. In order to avoid having a fi4t
with the renegades, whose white blood the trappers wero
not anxious to spill, Walker made an effort to get the horses
off the island undiscovered. But while horses and men
were crossing the river on the ice, the ice sinking with
them until the water was knee-deep, the robbers discovered
the escape of their booty, and charging on the trappers
tried to recover the horses. In this effort they were not
successful ; while Walker made a masterly flank movement
and getting in Thompson's rear, ran the horses into the
fort, where he stationed his men, and succeeded in keep-
ing the robbers on the outside. Thompson then com-
menced giving the horses away to a village of Utes in the
neighborhood of the fort, on condition that they should
assist in retaking them. On his side, Walker threatened
the Utes with dire vengeance if they dared interfere. The
Utes who had a wholesome fear not only of the trappers,
but of their foes the Snakes, declined to enter into the
quarrel. After a day of strategy, and of threats alterna-
ted with arguments, strengthened by a warlike display,
the trappers marched out of the fort before the faces of
the discomfitted thieves, taking their booty with them,
which was duly restored to the Snakes on their return to
Fort Crockett, and peace secured once more with that
people.
Still times continued bad. The men not knowing what
else to do, went out in small parties in all directions seek
ing adventures, which genernlly were not far to find. On
one of these excursions Meek went with a party down the
canyon of Green River, on the ice. For nearly a hundred
miles they traveled dov. n this awful canyon without find-
ing but one place where they could have come out; and
left it at last at the mouth of the Uintee.
m^mff^m'^
RUNNING ANTELOPES.
261
This passed the time until March. Then the company
of Nowcll and Meek was joined by Antoine Rubideau,
who had brought goods from Sante Fe to trade with the
hidians. Setting out in company, they traded along up
Green River to the mouth of Ham's fork, and camped.
The snow was still deep in the mountains, and the trappers
found great sport in running antelope. On one occasion
a large herd, numbering several hundreds, were run on to
the ice, on Green River, where they were crowded into
an air hole, and large numbers slaughtered only for the
cruel sport which they afforded.
But killing antelope needlessly was not by any means
the worst of amusements practiced in Rubideau's camp.
Thiit foolish trader occupied himself so often and so long
in playing Hand,, (an Indian game,) that before he parted
with his new associates he had gambled away his goods,
his horses, and even his wife; so that he returned to Santa
Fe nnich poorer than nothing — since he was in debt.
On the departure of Rubideau, Meek went to Fort ITall,
and remained in that neighborhood, trapping and trading
for the Hudson's Bay Company, until about the last of
June, when he started for the old rendezvous places of the
American Companies, hoping to find some divisions of them
at least, on the familiar camping ground. But his journey
was in vain. Neither on Green River or Wind River,
where for ten years he had been accustomed to meet the
loaders and their men, his old comrades in danger, did he
find a wand(;ring brigade even. The glory of the Ameri-
can eonij)an;es was departed, and he found himself solitary
among his long familiar haunts.
\\ ith many melancholy reflections, the man of twenty-
oiirht years of age recalled how, a mere boy, he had fallen
half unawares into the kind of life he had ever since
'.,■1
262
REFLECTIONS AND UALF-UESOLVES.
li
led amongst the mountains, with only other men equally
the victims of circumstance, and the degraded savages, for
his companions. The best that could be made of it,
such lil'e had been and must be constantly deteriorating
to the minds and souls of himself and his associates.
Away from all laws, and refined habits of living; awav
from the society of religious, modest, and accomplished
women ; always surrounded by savage scenes, and forced
to cultivate a taste for barbarous things — what had this
life made of him ? what was he to do with himself in the
future?
Sick of trapping and hunting, with brief intervals of
carousing, he felt himself to be. And then, even if he
were not, the trade was no longer profitable enough to
support him. What could he do? where could he go?
Ho remembered his talk .vith Mrs. Whitman, that fair,
tall, courteous, and dignified lady who had stirred in him
longings to return to the civilized life of his native state.
But he felt unfit for the society of such as she. Would
he ever, could he ever attain to it now ? He had prom-
ised her he might go over into Oregon and settle down.
But could he settle down ? Should he not starve at try-
ing to do what other men, mechanics and farmers, do?
And as to learning, he had none of it; there was no hope
then of "living by his wits," as some men did — missiona-
ries and artists and school teachers, some of whom he had
met at the rendezvous. Heigho! to be checkmated in
life at twenty-eight, that would never do.
At Fort Hall, on his return, he met two more missiona-
ries and their wives going to Oregon, but these four did
not aflect him pleasantly ; he had no mind to go with
them. Instead, he set out on what proved to be his last
trapping expedition, with a Frenchman, named Mattileau.
T
1
THE LAST TRAPPING EXPEDITION,
2G3
Tlicy visited the old trapping grounds on Pierre's Fork,
Lewis' Lake, Jackson's River, Jackson's Hole, Lewis
River and Salt River: but beaver were scarce; and it
was with a feeling of relief that, on returning by way
of Bear River, Meek heard from a Frenchman whom
he met there, that he was wanted at Fort llall, by his
fi-iend Newell, who had something to propose to him. . ■
^
v/
.■M.:^\
mmm
264
A. NEW aTAllI IN LliJi.
CHAPTER XXI.
?H'
1
1840. When Meek arrived at Fort Hall, where Newell
was awaiting liiiii, he found that the latter had there the
two wagons whieh Dr. Whitman had left at the points on
the journey where further transportation by their means
had been pronounced impossible. The Doctor's idea of
finding a passable wagon-road over the lava plains and
the heavily timbered mountains lying between Fort Hall
and the Columbia River, seemed to Newell not so wild a
one as it wjis generally pronounced to be in the moun-
tains. At all events, he was prep^ired to undertake tlio
journey. The wagons were put in traveling order, and
horses and mules purchased for the expedition.
" Come," said Newell to Meek, "we are done with this
life in the mountains — done with wading in beaver-dams,
and freezing or starving alternately — done with Indian
trading and Indian fighting. The fur trade is dead in the
Rocky Mountains, and it is no place fc* us now, if ever it
was. We are young yet, and have life before us. We
cannot waste it here ; we cannot or will not return to the
States. Let us go down to the Wallamet and take farms.
There is already quite a settlement there made by the
Methodist Mission and the Hudson's Bay Company's re-
tired servants.
" I have had some talk with the Americans who have
gone down there, and the talk is that the country is going
to be settled up by our people, and that the Hudson's
THE MOUNTAIN-MKN AS PIONEERS.
205
Biiv Company are not going to rule this country niiicli
loiwer. What do you say, Meek ? Shall we turn Ameri-
can settlers ?"
"I'll go where you do, Newell. What suits you suits
me.
'• I thought you'd say so, and that's why I sent for you,
Mi'C'k. In my Avay of thinking, a white man is a little
better than a Canadian Frenchman. I'll be if I'll
hang 'round a post of the Hudson's Bay Company. So
you'll go '?"
" I reckon I will ! What have you got for me to do ?
/ haven't got anything to begin with but a wife and
baby!"
'• Well, you can drive one of the wagons, and take your
family and traps along. Nicholas will drive the other,
and rU play leader, and look after the train. Craig will
go also, so we shall be quite a party, with what strays
we shall be sure to pick up."
Thus it was settled. Thus Oregon began to receive
her first real emigrants, who were neither fur-traders nor
missionaries, but true frontiersmen — border-men. The
training which the mountain -men had received in the
service of the fur companies admirably fitted them to be,
what afterwards they became, a valuable and indispensa-
ble element in the society of that country in whose pe-
culiar history they played an important part. But we
must not anticipate their acts before we have witnessed
their gradual transformation from lawless rangers of the
wilderness, to law-abiding and even law-making and law-
c.xecuting citizens of an isolated territory.
In order to understand the condition of things in the
Wallumet Valley, or Lower Columbia country, it will be
necessary to revert to the earliest history of that territory,
as sketched in the first chapter of this book. A history
l:M
: 11
i
'•M-
W.
1 I'lJ
8
4*1
im^x
266
CAPTAIN tJllAY OF Tllli SIIII' COLUMBIA,
1
of the fur companies is a history of Oregon up to the
year 18.'{4, so far as the occupation of the country wus
concerned. ]Jut its political history was begun long be-
fore— from the time (May lltli, 1792) when the captain
of a New EngUind coasting and fur-trading vessel entered
the great " River of the West," which nations had boon
hjoking for for a hundred years. At the very time when
the incpiisitive Yankee was heading his little vessel through
the white line of breakers at the mouth of the long-sought
river, a British exploring expedition was scanning the
shore between it and the Straits of Fuca, having wisely
declared its scientific opinion that there was no such river
on that coast. Vancouver, the chief of that expedition,
so assured the Yankee trader, whose views did not agree
Avith his own : and, Yankee-like, the trader turned back
to satisfy himself
A bold and lucky man was Captain Gray of the ship
Columbia. No explorer he — only an adventurous and,
withal, a prudent trader, with an eye to the main chance;
emulous, too, perhaps, of a little glory ! It is impossible
to conceive how he could have done this thing calmly.
We think his stout heart must have shivered somewhat,
both with anticipation and dread, as he ran for the " open-
ing," and plunged into the frightful tumult — straight
through the proper channel, thank God ! and sailed out
on to the bosom of that beautiful bay, twenty-five miles
by six, which the great river forms at its mouth.
We trust the morning was fine : for then Captain Gray
must have beheld a sight which a discoverer should re-
member for a lifetime. This magnificent bay, surrounded
by lofty hills, clad thick with noble forests of fir, and
fretted along its margin with spurs of the highlands, form-
ing other smaller bays and coves, into which ran streams
whose valleys were hidden among the hills. From beyond
DIHCOVERV OF TIIK COLUMHIA.
2G7
(lie fiuiliost point, whoso dark ridge juttod across this in-
land sea, ilowod down tho deep, l)road river, whose course
and origin was still a magnificent mystery, hnt which in-
dicated by its volnme that it drained a mighty region of
niohalde great fertility and natliral wealth. Perhaps Cap-
tain (rray did not fully realize the importance of his dis-
covery. If the day was line, with a blue sky, and tlie
purple shadows lying in among the hills, with smooth
water before him and the foamy breakers behind — if he
felt what his discovery was, in point of importance, to
the world, ho was a proud and happy man, and enjoyed
tho reward of his daiing.
The only testimony on that head is the simple entry on
Ills log-book, telling us that he had named the river " Co-
lumbia s River ^'' — with an apostrophe, that tiny point
intimating much.
This was one ground of the American
claim, though Vancouver, after Gray had reported his
success to him, sent a lieutenant to explore the river, and
then claimed the discovery for England ! The next claim
of the United States upon the Oregon territory was by
virtue of the Florida treaty and the Louisiana purchase.
These, and the general one of natural boundaries, Eng-
land contested also. Hence the treaty of joint occupancy
for a term of ten years, renewable, unless one of the parties
to it gave a twelve-month's notice of intention to with-
draw. Meantime this question of territorial claims hung
over the national head like the sword suspended by a
hair, which statesmen delight in referring to. We did
not dare to say Oregon was ours, because we were afraid
England would make war on us ; and England did not
dare say Oregon was hers, for the same reason. There-
fore "joint-occupancy" was the polite word with which
statesmen glossed over the fact that Great Britain actually
possessed the country through the monopoly of the Hud-
-'I
2G8
PLANS FOR COLONIZING OllEOON.
son's Bay Company. That company had a good tiling so
]()n<^' as the fj^overnincnt of (ircat Britain prevented any
outbreak, by simply renewing the treaty every ten years.
Their manner of doing business was such as to prevent
any less powerful corporation from interfering with them,
wliile individual enterprise was sure to be crushed at the
start.
Meanwhile the Yankee nation, some members of which
at one time had vessels tratling on the northwest coast,
became uneasy at this state of affairs. Since the war of
1812 and the failure of Astor's expedition, their vessels
had been driven oil' that coast, or had been fain to con-
tent themselves with picking up cargoes of hides and tal-
low i'roin the Indian missions in California. It was not in
Yankee nature to stand this foreign monopoly. As if
they had not land enough on the eastern side of the
Rocky Mountains, they began to expatiate on the beau-
ties and excellencies of the country which lay beyond.
As early as 1817, even before the obnoxious Conven-
tion, a Bostonian school teacher, named Hall J. Kelly, had
conceived the idea of colonizing the Oregon territory.
He labored to impress others with the views which he
held, and formed many emigration schemes, besides me-
morializing Congress on the subject, as well as the legisla-
ture of his own State. Finally, in 1831, he succeeded in
getting the Legislature of Massachusetts to pass an act
incorporating the " American Society for Encouraging the
Settlement of the Oregon Territory^'''' and a large number
of persons became members. But the fur companies,
American as well as British, steadily discouraged all efforts
which were directed towards the settlement of the cov-
eted territory, so that nothing was accomplished by the
above named society ; and at length, in 1832, Kelly sent
out two young men only, for the country west of the
■nil) HUDSON 8 BAY COMPANY DKNOl'NCKI).
209
Rdckv Mountains. On arriving at Fort Vancouver tlioy
IouikI the same diiriculties in tlieir way which ])r('ventod
Wyeth and IJonncvilie from succeedhig. In trulli, tiieir
caso was worse, for there was nothing for them to (h), and
if tliore had been, they would not have be(Mi permitted
tu do it, except in the service of the Hudson's Hay Com-
pany. For the first winter, one of them, a Mr. Ball, was
employed as teacher of the half-breed childrcMi at the
Fort. The following spring, Ball and his companion,
Tibbits, began farming. This, however^ proving unprofit-
able Ijiisiness in a country where there was no market,
Hall I'eturncd to the States, and Tibbits remained to teach
the school at Fort Vancouver. In the meantime, Kelly
was trying to organize an expedition to proceed by sea.
This also failed to be successful, through the inaction of
the general government and the antagonism of the fur
ooiiipiinios. Persisting in his plan of colonizing Oregon
and ()})oning commerce on the west coast, Kelly went to
Mexico and endeavored to open a trade between that coun-
try and Ore^j^on. But the Mexican revenue officers re-
morsolossly robbed him of a large share of the goods he
was taking to Oregon, so that by the time he arrived at
Fort Vancouver there was little or nothing left of his
stock in trade, while he was broken down in health and
spirits. Like Wyeth, he returned home without having
been able to realize any one of his many schemes of
profit. . •- ' .■■ . . ■-..- •••-■• - •;-(*
Such was the experience of all who in that early day
attempted to oppose themselves to the Hudson's Bay
Company. For this reason all these adventurers exe-
crated its influence, and denounced everything British.
The truth was, however, that the case would have been
just the same had it been an American company which
occupied the Columbia River, so far as their fortunes
^H
Ki
270
FIRHT MISSlOXAIUKft TO TIIK WALLAMET.
were {'()iic(!rno{l. Any conipimy, to succeed in that far
of!* wiMernesH eoiuitry, must have done just us the Vav.
lisli conipanv did do. To enter into competition anions
the Indians was to ruin the trade for all concerned, to in-
duce misunderstandings with the savage.-*, and finally to
devastate, instead of settling up, the country. This the
Hudson's Bay Company understood, and they would
rather lose money by trying to keep other traders out,
than to make it for a little while by competing with
them. •
But "man proposes and God disposes." In 1834, the
Methodist Episcopal Board of Missions sent out fouv mis-
sionaries to labor among the liidians These were two
preachers, the Rev. Messrs. Jason and Daniel Lee, aud
two lay members, Cyrus Shepard and P. L. Edwards.
These gentlemen were liberally furnished with all the
necessaries and comforts of life by the Board, in addition
to which they received the kindest attentions and consid-
eration from the ofBcers of the Hudson's Bay Company at
Vancouver. Their vessel, the May Dacre, Captain Lam-
bert, had arrived safely in the river with the mission
goods. The gentlemen at Vancouver encouraged their
enterprise, and advised them to settle in the Wallamet
valley, the most fertile tract of country west of the Rocky
Mountains. Being missionaries, nothing was to be feared
from them in the way of trade. The Wallamet valley
was a good country for the mission — at the same time it
was south of the Columbia River. This latter considera-
tion was not an unimportant one with the Hudson's B?y
Company, it being understood among those in the confi-
dence of the British government, that in case the Oregon
territory had to be divided with the United States, the
Columbia River would probably be made the northern
boundary of the American possesrio v . The missionaries
THE POLITICAL HISTOUY OF ORKOON.
271
Wm^f content to settle south of the Cohiinbia, all "went
wc
11.
Tlioso tliroo points were what the Tludson's Buy Cnvn-
pany must insist upon, so far as, under the terms of the
trcjity, tiu.'y coukl do : first, that the Americans occupy-
in"' the country jointly with them, sliould not attempt to
triuliMvitli the Indians; secoiullj,, hat they should con-
lino tlnnuselves to agricultural puj'. nits and missioiuiry
labor; and tliirdly, that the set tiers should keep to the
sduthside of the Columbia. 2'.ot that the servants of the
Hudson's Bay Company conlined themselves to the north
side of this probable boundary ; f»n the contrary, the re-
tired servants of that company had begun to settle in the
Wallamet valley in 1831.
We have said that the political history of Oregon began
near the close of the last century. As early as the winter
of 1820-21, the first proposition was made in Congress
for the occupation and settlement of the Columbia River.
"It* was made by Dr. Floyd, a representative from Virj^inia, a man of
ability, and stronf^ly imbued with western feelings, from a long residence in
iuntiicky. It refjiiiri'd both energy and courage to embr.ace a subj'>ct which
Hcmcd lii(('iy to bring more riilicule than credit to its advm'atc. lie took up
till' idi'ii iiom s(tni(! essays of Mr. Benton's, which had been pul)lished the year
|ii('vi()ii.<. lie had also made the acquaintance of Mr. Russell Farnham and
Mr. Rnmscy Crooks, who had been in the emjiloj-mct of Astor in founrling
tlio colony at Astoria. lie resolved to bring forward the question of occupa-
tion, and did so. He moved for a select committee to consider and report upon
till' siilywt. 'llie conunittee was granted by the House, more thrtugh courtesy
to a respected niembor, than with any view to business results. It was a com-
mittee of three, himself chairman ai-cording to a parliamentary rule, and
Tliomas Metcalf of Kentucky, and Thomas V. Sweat-ingen of Virginia, both,
like iiiniself, ardent men, and strong in wctern feeling Tliey reported a bill
within six days after the committee was ruls. 1, " to authorize the occupation
of the Columbia River, and to regtilate trade and intercourse with the Indian
trihes thereon." In their report they represented the advantages of the fur
trade, the Asiatic trade, and the preservation of our own territory. Nothing
* From Benton's Thirty Years in Congress.
18
; 51
■t liK'ttil
"li
1 i
27:
EXTRACTS FROM
" THIRTY YEARS IN CONGRESS."
furtluT was done at that session, but enough had been said to awaken public
attention, and the facts set forth in the report made a lodgement in the public
mind."
At a subsequent session, both Floyd and Benton pur-
sued the subject with ardor, and the latter dwelt strongly
on the danger of a contest with Great Britain, to whom
had been granted joint occupancy, and who had already
taken possession ; and reminded the Government " that a
vigorous etFort of policy, and perhaps of arms, might be
necessary to break her hold." Unauthorized or individual
occupation was intimated as a consequence of government
neglect, and what has since taken place was foreshadowed
in the following sentence : "Mere adventurers may enter
upon it, as ^neus entered upon the Tiber, and as our
forafathers came upon the Potomac, the Delaware, and
the Hudson, and renew the phenomenon of individuals
laying the foundations of future empire." He predicted
the intercourse with China and Japan which has since fol-
lowed, and prophesied that the overflowing population of
those countries would seek our Pacific shores,
Mr. Benton said, when the subject of the joint occupa-
tion treaty was before the House in 1825 : —
" The claim of Great Britain is nothing but a naked pretension, founded on
the double prospect of benefitting herself and injuring the United States. The
fur-trader. Sir Alexander McKenzie, is at the bottom of this policy. Failiug
in his attempt to explore the Columbia River in 1 793, he nevertheless urged
upfHi the British government the advantages of taking it to herself, and of ex-
pelling the Americans from the whole region west of the Rocky Mountains.
lie recommended that the Hudson's Bay and Northwest companies should be
united, and they have been united. He jjroposed to extend the for trade to
the Pacific Ocean, and it has been so extended. He proposed that a chain of
trading posts should be formed through the continent, from sea to sea, and it
has been formed. He recommended that no boundary line should be formed
which did not give the Columbia River to the British, and the British Min- try
declare that none other shall be formed. He proposed to obtain the command
of the fur trade from latitude 45° North, and they have it, even to the Mandan
BEXTOX ON THE OHEGON CLAIMS.
273
\illa'i<'S anJ tli^ nein;l»borhoo(l V)f Council RliifTs. He rccommendod the expul-
sion of ilu' Anu'rican tratlcrs from tlu- whole region west of the lloeky ^loun-
taiiis. anil tlK-y are expelled from it."
Ill addition to the influence of the fur companies, polit-
ical considerations also governed Great Britain in acquiring
possession of the Northwest coast, and the command of
the Pacific Ocean.
In a Pacific Railroad speech which Mr. Benton made at
Brunswick, Mo., thirty years later, there occurs this para-
uTii})li:
"I oaup;ht the idea (of a Paoific Railroad) fi-om Mr. Jefferson, who in his
nu'ssajie to Congress proposing the expedition of Lewis and Clarke, jjresented
the commercial communication as the leading object, and the one which gave
(oiiiri'ss the Constitutional jurisdiction in the case; and the extension of geo-
.'r.ilihical science as the incident to tiie pursuit of that main object. That was
bi't'ore we accjuired Oregon, or set up any claim to territory on the Pacific
Ocuan." . ■■■.,'
From these extracts it will appear that while the fur
Coinpaiiies were contending for the occupation of the
Oregon territory, and had finally parceled it off as we have
already seen, — the American companies keeping in and
abuut the Rocky Mountains, and the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany excluding them from the country west of the Blue
-Mountains, while that which laid between had been con-
tested ground, — two governments were equally active and
studious in their efforts to substantiate their claims.
But it was not, after all, either the fur companies or
tbe general government which directed the entering
wedge in the settlement of the much-tc:lked-of claims.
It was the missionary settlements which effected this.
There was nothing in the character of the Christian
Missionary's labor which the Hudson's Bay Company could
possibly object to without a palpable violation of the
im
; t
I:
274
mi. JOHN MCLAUGHLIN.
THE MISSIOXAKT
WEDGE.
Convention of 1818. Therefore, al-
though the Methodist mission in the
Wulkiniet Yalley received a large ac-
cession to its numbers in 1837, they
were as kindly welcomed as had been
those of 1834 ; and also those Pres-
byterian missionaries of 1836, who had
settled in the "upper country."
Not an immigrant entered Oregon
in that day Avho did not proceed at
once to Vancouver: nor was there
one, in any way deserving, who did
not meet with the most liberal and
hospitable treatment. Neither was this hospitality a tri-
fling benefit ; to the weary traveler just arrived from a
long and most fatiguing journey, it was extremely wel-
come and refreshinp,-. At Vancouver was the only society.
and the only luxurious living to be enjoyed on the whole
Northwest coast.
At the head of the first was Dr. John McLaughlin, al-
ready mentioned as the Chief Factor, and Deputy Gov-
ernor of the Hudson's Ba}' Company in Oregon, and all the
Northwest. He was of Scotch origin, and Canadian birth.
a gentleman bred, with a ciiaracter of the highest integ-
rity, to which were united justice and humanity. His po-
sition as head of the Hudson's Bny Company's affairs, was
no enviable one during that period of Oregon history
which followed the advent of Americans in the Wallamet
. Valley. Himself a British subject, and a representative
of that powerful corporation which bent the British Gov-
ernment to its will, he was bound to execute its commands
when they did not conflict too strongly with his conscious-
ness of right and justice. And while he was williug and
^•i«i^^»np
r
HOSPITALITIES OP FORT VANCOUVER.
275
anxious to do his duty towards the company he served,
circumstances arose, and occasions grew out of those cir-
cumstances which tried his k)yalty, integrity, and humanity,
to tlic utmost. One course, however, he steadily pursued,
wliicli was that of a beneficent friend toward all who de-
served his friendship, and many who did not, in all private
and personal matters. Hence of the many who went to
Vancouver, all were kindly re'ceived ; and every man of
any intelligence or position among the Americans was
most hospitably treated, not only by himself but by all the
factors, traders, and clerks of the establishment. It often
happened in the early days of Oregon that sonif of the
most prominent Americans were not decently clad, through
tlieir inability to procure clothing suitable to their posi-
tion. But the seat of honor at the Chief Factor's table
was reserved with as much punctiliousness for these rag-
ged pioneers, as if thoy had come clad in beautiful rai-
ment. Nor were finger bowls and napkins withh(3ld from
the use of soiled and blackened pioneer fingers. Wine,
and good cheer, and cultivated conversation, were freely
offered and enjoyed. There was nothing in the line of his
duty which prevented Dr. McLaughlin from exercising
private hospitality and gentlemanly courtesy toward the
Americans. A man of religious feeling himself, he
fipectcd the motive which was presumed to actuate the
missionaries. To be sure, he had been educated in the
Ivoman Catholic doctrines ; but yet he was not unwilling
that the Protestants should entertain and disseminate
their own religious views. As a representative of the
Hudson's Bay Company he had one duty to execute : as a
Christian gentleman, another. That these separate dutie=i
sometimes conflicted will appc " ^"^ the course of this nar-
rative. So far, however, as eucouragiug the missionaries
276
EARLY SETTLERS IN THE WALLAMET VALLEY.
ill their undertakings was concerned, he did not hold then
to be conflicting ; not, at all events, until they undeceived
him, by entering upon secular enterprises.
As has been stated, the Methodist mission settlement wi s
reinforced in 1837, by the arrival of about twenty persons,
among whom were several ladies, and a few children.
These, like those preceding them, were first entertained at
Fort Vancouver before proceeding to the mission, which
was between fifty and sixty miles up the Wallamet, in the
heart of that delightful valley. These persons came bv a
sailing vessel around Cape Horn, bringing with them sup-
plies for the mission. ^[fef.7
In the two following years there were about a dozen
missionary arrivals overland, all of whom tarried a short
time at the American Company's rendezvous, as before re
lated. These were some of them designed for the upper
country, but most of them soon settled in the Wallamet
valley.
Durhig these years, between 1834 and 1840, there had
drifted into the valley various persons from California, the
Rocky Mountains, and from the vessels which sometimes
appeared in the Columbia ; until at the time when Newell
and Meek resolved to quit the mountains, the American
settlers numbered nearly one hundred, men, women, ....J
children. Of these, about thirty belonged to the missions;
tie remainder were mountain-men, sailors, and adventur-
ers. The mountain-men, most of them, had native wives.
Besides the Americans there were sixty Canadian French-
men, who had been retired upon farms by the Hudson's
Bay Company ; and who would probably have occupied
these farms so long as the II, B. Company should have
continued to do business in Oregon,
With the American mountain-men it was, however, difior-
ent. It was the fact of the mission havina: been estab-
IMPORTATION OP CATTLE.
277
lisliecl there, with all the means and appliances of a settle-
ment iiide})enclent of the H. B. Company, which induced
them to remain and settle also upon farms. They looked
to the Mission to become to them, what Fort Vancouver
^vns to the Canadians, a supply station ; an expectation
wliic'h was only half fulfilled, as will be seen hereafter.
Tlie Missionaries themselves had been compelled to de-
pond upon Fort Vancouver for many things, and among
otlicrs for cattle, and milch cows. It was a matter of seri-
ous complaint among the American settlers that the H. B.
Company would sell none of their stock. Lend it they
■ffould ; sell it they would not. This effort on the part of
the company to retain a monopoly in so important an ele-
ment of civilized comfort as oxen, beef-cattle, and milch
cows, created much ill feeling for a time, as it cramped
the means of productive labor excessively.
But in 1837 there appeared in the Columbia river the
U. S. Brig Lonof^ Captain Slocum, on an errand, of
observation. Upon learning from the settlers that no
cattle could be procured in Oregon, Captain Slocum
encouraged a plan which was then on foot, of send-
ing to California for a supply of Spanish stock. To
further this enterprise he contributed fifteen dollars, and
oil'ov^d a free passage to such persons as wished to go to
Cali!uinia on this errand. The way being thus opened, a
meeting of the settlers was held, and shares taken in what
was called the "California Cattle Company." Whatever
may have been the feelings of the H. B. Company, they
olTered no direct opposition : on the contrary, Dr. Mc
Laughlin took several shares in the Cattle Company, on
his own account. The expedition was headed by Mr. P. L.
Kdwards of the Methodist mission, and Mr. Ewing Young
of the American settlement. Young was of the same
class as the mountain-men, and had in fact been a trader
viHi'
I
•■a
278
DISTRIBUTION OV SETTLERS.
lit '
at Taos in New Mexico ; after which lie had led a hniitin?
and trapping party through California; and had accompa-
nied Kelly in his journey to Oregon in 18i}5. He was
just the man to conduct an expedition such as this one;
; though the Mission thought it necessary to send ^Ir. Ed-
wards along to look out for the funds of the company.
The expedition set sail in January, and returned by land
in the autumn, with several hundred head of cattle ; hav-
ing met wiuh some loss of stock, by an attack from the
Rogue River Indians, or Shastas, — the same tribe who at-
tacked Smith's party in 1829. The cattle were then
divided up among the settlers according to the shares pre-
viously taken ; those who went to California receiving pay
for their services out of the herd. This importation of
cattle placed the American colony, for such it now really
was, on a more independent footing, besides furnishing a
means for the rapid acquisition of wealth.
The distribution of settlers was as follows : the mission
proper, about fifty-two miles above the mouth of the
Wallamet ; the Canadian settlement ten or twelve miles
below the mission, and Wallamet Falls, or as it afterwards
was called, Oregon City. At this latter place Dr. McLaugh-
lin, as early as 1829, had begun the ereotion of a mill, and
had continued to make improvements from time to time,
up to 1840, when some members of the Mission applied
to him for permission to erect a building for mission pur-
poses upon the land claimed and improved by the Doctor.
This request was granted, together with another for the
use of some timbers already squared for building, which
had been * itended for the mill. At the same time that
Dr. McLav lilin made these generous concessions to the
mission gentlemen, he notified them that he intended to
claim the land already improved by him, so soon as the
boundary line was drawn by a proper survey.
WESTWAllD ho! — TUE FIRST WAGON KOAD.
279
CHAPTER XXII.
When it was settled that Newell and Meek were to ero
to the Wallamet, they lost no time in dallying, but packed
the wagons with whatever they possessed in the way of
worldly goods, topped them with their Nez Perce wives
and half-breed children, and started for "Walla- Walla, ac-
companied by Craig, another mountain-ma'i, and either
followed or accompanied by several others. Meek drove
a five-in-hand team of four horses and one mule. Nicho-
kis drove the other team of four horses, and Newell, who
owned the train, was mounted as leader.
The journey was no easy one, extending as it did over
immense plains of lava, round impassable canyons, over
rapid unbridged rivers, and over mountains hitherto be-
lieved to be only passable for pack trains. TJie honor
which has heretofore been accorded to the Presbyterian
missionaries solely, of opening a wagon road from the
Piocky Mountains to the Columbia River, should in justice
be divided with these two mountaineers, who accomplished
the most difficult part of this difficult journey.
Arrived at Fort Boise, a post of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, the little caravan stopped for a few days to rest and
recruit their animals. With the usual courtesy of that
Comjxany, Mr. Payette, the trader in charge, offijred New-
ell quarters in the fort, as leader of his party. To Meek
and Craig who were encamped outside, be sent a piece of
sturgeon with his compliments, which our incipient Ore-
,1
i
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,5
I;-
i ■
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' T
•T'TBCT;
" ■: '". T
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'" 19!^
1
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280
WAIILATPU IIELKN MAR.
gonians sent back again -vvith their compliments. No
Hudson's Bay distinctions of rank for them ! No, indeed!
The moment tliat an American commenced to think of
himself as a settler on the most remote corner of Ameri-
can soil, that moment, as if by instinct, he began to defend
and support his republicanism.
After a few days' rest, the party went on, encountcriii<r,
as might be expected, much dilliculty and toil, but arriviiii:
safely after a reasonable time at the Columbia River, at
the junction of the Umatilla. Here the wagons and stock
were crossed over, and the party proceeded directly to
Di". Whitman's mission at Waiilatpu. Dr. Whitman gave
them a friendly reception ; killing for them, if not the fat-
ted calf, the fattest hog he had ; telling Meek at the same
time that "fat pork was good for preachers," referring to
Meek's missionary labors among the Nez Perccs.
During the three vears since the commencement of the
mission at Waiilatpu considerable advancement had been
made in the progress of civilization among the Cayuses.
Quite a number of Indian children were domesticated with
Mrs. Whitman, who were rapidly acquiring a knowledge
of housekeeping, sewing, reading, and writing, and farm
labor. With Mrs. Wliitman, for whom M( ek still enter-
tained great admiration and respect, he resolved to leave
his little girl, Helen Mar ; the fruit of his connexion with
the Nez Perce Avoman who persisted in abandoning him in
the mountains, as already related. Having thus made
provision for the proper instruction of his daughter, and
conferred with the Doctor on the condition of the Ameri-
can settlers in Oregon — the Doctor being an ardent
American — Meek and his associates started once more for
the Wallamet.
At Walla- Walla Newell decided to leave the wagons,
the weather having become so rainy and disagreeable as
-.Jil':
^^^^m
THE DALLES MISSION — INDIAN PUAYKKS.
281
to make it doubtful about fretting tli(nii over the Casciiilo
Mouiitiiins tliat fall. Accordingly the goods wore traus-
Ibrrc'd to pack-horses for tlio remainder of the journey.
Ill tlio following year, however, one of the Wiigons was
brougiit down by Newell, and taken to the plains on the
Tiialiitiii River, being the first vehicle of the kind in the
Wallainet Valley.
On arriving at the Dalles of the Columbia, our moun-
tain inon found that a mission had been established at that
place for the conversion of th.(jse inconscionable thieves,
tlie Wish-ram Indians, renowned in Indian history for their
acquisitiveness. This mission was under the charge of
Daniel Lee and a Mr. Perkins, and was an oil'shoot of the
Methodist Mission in the \Vallamet Val' -y. These gentle-
men having found the benighted condition of the Indians
to exceed their powers of enliglitment in any ordinary
way, were having recourse to extraordinary efforts, and
were carrying on what is commonly termed a revival^'
though what piety there was in the hearts of these savages
to be revived, it would be difficult to determine. How-
over, they doubtless hoped so to wrestle with God them-
selves, as to compel a blessing upon their labors.
The Indians indeed were not averse to prayer. They
could pray Avillingly and sincerely enough when they could
hope for a speedy and actual material answer to their
prayers. And it was for that, and that only, that they
importuned the Christian's God. Finding that their
prayers were not answered according to their desire, it at
length became difficult to persuade them to pray at all.
Sometimes, it is true, they succeeded in deluding the mis-
sionaries with the belief that they were really converted,
for a time. One of these most hopeful converts at the
Dalles mission, being in want of a shirt and capote, volun-
teered to " pray for a whole year," if Mr. Lee would fur-
nish him with these truly desirable articles.
lUvJ
.iij
! :
mmm
282
THE IMPiOUH CANADIAN.
It is no wonder that with sudi h()j)elo.ss material to work
upon the Dalles niissionarie.s withdrew from them a portion
of their zeal, and bestowed it, where it was quite; as much
needed, upon any "stray mountain-man" wlio ehancedlo
be entertained "within their j^ates." Newell's purtv,
among others, received the well-meant, but not always
well-received or ai)preciated attentions of these gentlemen.
The American mountaineer was not likely to be suddenly
surprised into praying in earnest; and he generally hml
too much real reverence to be found making a jest in the
form of a mocking prayer.
Not so scrupulous, however, was Jandrcau, a lively
French Canadian, w:io was traveling in company with the
Americans. On being repeatedly importuned to prav,
with that tireless zeal which distinguishes the Metlicdist
preacher above all others, Jandrcau appeared suddenly to
be smitten with a consciousness of his guilt, and kneeling
in the midst of the 'meeting,' began with clasped hands
and upturned eyes to pour forth a perfect torrent of words.
With wonderful dramatic power he appeared to confess,
to supplicate, to agonize, in idiomatic French. His tears
and ejaculations touched the hearts of the missionaries,
and filled them with gladness. They too ejaculated and
wept, with frequently uttered "Amens" and "hallelujahs,"
until the scene became highly dramatic and exciting. In
the midst of this grand tableau, when the enthusiasm was
at its height, Jandrcau suddenly ceased and rose to his feet,
while an irrepressible outburst of laughter from his asso-
ciates aroused the astonished missionaries to a partial cora-
prehension of the fact that they had been made the subjects
of a practical joke, though they never knew to exactly
how great an extent. '• ,
The mischievous Frenchman had only recited with tndy
artistic power, and with such variations as the situation
-r,^
JANDUKAU CALLED TO AN ACCOUNT.
283
oif-rrested, one of the most woiKlorful aiitl cflcctive talcs
from tliL' Arahinn Ni(jhtH Eidertainmcni, with which lie
was wont to dchght and auiuso his comrades beside the
wiiitor c!iiiip-rirc!
J)iit .liuuh'oau was called to account when ho arrived at
Vancouver. Dr. McLan<^hlin had heard the story from
poiiio of the party, and resolved to punish the man's irrev-
erence, at tno same time that he gave himself a bit of
aninsemcnt. Sending for the Rev. Father lUanchet, who
was thou resident at Vancouver, he informed him of the
eircunistance, and together they arranged Jandreau's pun-
ishment, lie was ordered to appear in their united pres-
ence, and make a true statement of the aflair. Jandreau
conlbssud that he had done what he was .iccused of do-
ing— made a mock of prayer, and told a tale instead of
oU'ering a supplication. He was then ordered by the Rev.
Father to rehearse the scene exactly as it occurred, in or-
der that he might judge of the amount of his guilt, and
apportion him his punishment.
Trembling and abashed, poor Jandrc fell upon his
knees and began the recital with much trepidation. But
as he proceeded he warmed with the subject, his dramatic
instinct asserted itself, tears streamed, and voice and eyes
snpplicated, until this second representation threatened to
outdo the first. With outward gravity and iuAvard mirth
bis two solemn judges listened to the close, and when Jan-
dreau rose quite exhausted from his knees. Father Blan-
chet hastily dismissed him with an admonition and a
h'glit })cnance. As the door of Dr. McLaughlin's office
closed behind him, not only the Doctor, but Father Blan-
chet indulged in a burst of long restrained laughter at
the comical absurdities of this impious Frenchman. mr Ai
To return to our immigrants. On leaving the Dalles
they proceeded on down the south side of the river as far
( ¥. .A
I •
i
284
DOWN- THE COLUMHTA.
as |)rac'ti('itl)lo, or opjxjsito to iho Wind Mountain. At tliLs
point tlu! IndiaiiH assisted to cross tlioni over to the north
side, when tliey af^ain nnide tiieir way ah)ng the river as
far as Tea J^rairia above Vancouver. The weatlicr wiia
execrable, with a pouring rain, and sky of dismal gray;
December being already far advanced. Our travelers
were not in the best of humors: indeed a saint-like amia-
bility is s(>ldom found in conjunction with rain, mud, fa-
tigue, and an empty stomach. Some ill-natured susi)icions
were uttered to the ed'ect that the Indians who were assist-
ing to cross the party at this point, had stolen some ropes
that were missing.
Upon this dishonorable insinuation the Indian heart was
fired, and a light became imminent. This undesirable cli-
max to emigrant woes was however averted by an attack
upon the indignant natives with firebrands, when they
})rudently retired, leaving the travelers to pursue their
way in peace. It was on Sunday that the weary, dirty,
hungiy little procession arrived at a place on the Walla-
met River where the present town of Milwaukie is situa-
ted, and found here two missionaries, the Rev. Messrs.
Waller and Beers, who were preaching to the Indians.
Meek immediately applied to Mr. Waller for some pro-
visions, and received for answer that it was "Sunday."
Mr. Waller, however, on being assured that it was no more
agreeable starving on Sunday than a week-day, finally al-
lowed the immigrants to have a peck of small potatoes,
But as a party of several persons could not long subsist on
so short allowance, and as there did not seem to be any
encouragement to expect more from the missionaries, there
was no course left to be pursued but to make an appeal to
Fori Vancouver.
To Fort Vancouver then, Newell went the next day,
and returned on the following one with some dried sal-
1!
mim^mm
DEl'KNDEXUE ON FOUT VArCOUVEIl.
285
moil, toa, sugar, and sea-broafcl. Tt was not (luite wliat tlio
iiioiiiilaiii-nu'ii could luivu wishod, this dcpundeiico on the
Hiidsoir.s Bay Company for iood, and did not ([uito af^^roe
witlnvliat tiicy iiad said wlicn thoir hearts wr-ro big in the
iiiounlaiiis. IJcin^ patriollv; on a full stomach is easy com-
pared to being the same thing on an empty one; a truth
which became more and more apparent as tlie wint(.'r pro-
gressed, and the new settlers found that if they would eat
they must ask food of some person or persons outside of
the iMi^thodist Mission. And outside of that tlun'c was in
all the country only the Hudson's Bay Company, and a
lew mountain-men like themselves, who had brought noth-
ing into the country, and could get nothing out of it at
pres(,'iit.
There was but short time in which to consider what
was to be done. Newell and Meek went to Wallamet
Falls, the day after Newell's return from Vancouver, and
there met an old comrade. Doughty, who was looking for
a place to locate. The three made their camp together
on the west side of the river, on a hill overlooking the
Falls. While in camp they were joined by two other
Rocky Mountain men, Wilkins and Ebbarts, who were also
looking for a place to settle in. There were now six of
the Rocky Mountain men together ; and they resolved to
push cut into the plains to the west of them, and see what
could be done in tho matter of selecting homes.
As for our hero, we fear we cannot say much of him
here which would serve to render him heroic in criticising
Yankee eyes. He was a mountain-man, and that only.
He had neither book learning, nor a trade, nor any knoAvl-
edge of the simplest aifairs apper* '-^ing to the ordinary
ways of getting a living. He h;„J. only his strong hands,
and a heart naturally stout and light. • , _;/
His friend Newell had the advantage of him in several
li
*9
1
\ J
1
1
i
i
.;>■:■
1::.,,
286
THE TUALATIN PLAINS.
particulars. IIg had rather more book-knowledge, more
business experience, and also more means. With thes^e
advantages he became a sort of "Booshway" among his
old comrades, who consented to follow his lead in the im-
jDortant movement about to be made, and settle in the
Tualatin Plains should he decide to do so.
Accordingly camp was raised, and the party proceeded
to the Plains, where they arrived on Christmas, and went
into camp again. The hardships of mountain life were
light compared to the hardships of this winter. For in
the mountains, when the individual's resources were ex-
hausted, there was always the Company to go to, which
was practically inexhaustible. Should it be necessary, the
Company was always willing to become the creditor of a
good mountain-man. And the debtor gave himself no
uneasiness, because he knew that if he lived he could dis-
charge his indebtedness. But everything was different
now. There was no way of paying debts, even if there
had been a company willing to give them credit, which
there was not, at least among Americans. Hard times
they had seen in the mountains ; harder times they were
likely to see in the valley ; indeed were already experi-
encing.
Instead of fat buffalo meat, antelojie, and mountain
mutton, which made the plenty of a camp on Powder
River, our carniverous hunters were reduced to eating
daily a little boiled wheat. In this extremity. Meek went
on aii expedition of discovery aci .lis the Lighlauds that
border the Lower Wallamet, and found on Wappatoo
(now Sauvis) Island, a Mr. and Mrs. Baldra living, ^rho
were in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company., and
drew rations from them. With great kindness they
divided the provisions on hand, furnishing him with dried
salmon and sea-bread, to which he added ducks and swans
A DISAGUEEABLE WINTER.
287
procured from the Indians. Poor and scanty as -was the
supi>ly t^^^^^ obtained, it was, after boiled wlieat, compara-
tive luxury while it lasted.
1841. The winter proved a very disagreeable one.
Considerable snow fell early, and went oft" with heavy
rains, flooding the whole country. The little camp on
the Tualatin Plains had no defence from the weather bet-
ter than Indian lodges, and one small cabin built by
Donglity on a furmer visit to the Plains ; for Doughty had
been one of the first of the mountain-men to come to the
Wallamet on the breaking up of the fur companies. In-
dian lodges, or no lodges at all, were what the men were
used to ; but in the dryer climate of the Rocky Moun-
tains it had not seemed such a miserable life, as it now
did, where, for months together, the ground was saturated
with I'ain, while the air was constantly charged with
vapor. ■.'■•
As for going anywhere, or doing anything, either were
inrilly impossible. No roads, the streams all swollen and
en
out of banks, the rains incessant, there was nothing for
them but to remain in camp and wait for the return of
spring. When at last the rainy season was over, and the
sun shini'jg once more, most of the mountain-men in the
Tualatin Plains camp took land-claims and set to work
improving them. Of those who began farming that
spring, were Newell, Doughty, Wilkins, and Walker.
These obtained seed-wheat from the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, also such farming implements as they must have,
iiiid even oxen to draw the plow through the strong
prairie sod. The wheat was to be returned to the com-
pany— the cattle also ; and the farming implements paid
tor wlicnever the debtor became able. This was certainly
hl)oral conduct on the part of a company generally un-
derstood to be opposed to American settlement.
19
288
WEALTH OF THE METHODlbT MlCJSlON.
CHAPTER XXIII
We find, according to tlieir own account, that about
1838-9, " Jason Lee was lecturing in New England, on
the Oregon Missions, and creating considerable zeal for
the cause. As the result of his labors before the Board
and elsewhere, $40,000 were collected for missionary pur-
poses, an'1 thirty-six additional assistants, viz: five mis-
sionaries, one physician, six mechanics, four farmers, one
steward, four fem. .e teachers, with millers and others,
were sent out to strengthen the mission, besides a saw
mill, grist mill, agricultural and mechanical tools. This
last reinforcement arrived in 1840, some months earlier
than the mountain-men. A new mission was projected
about ten miles above the old one, on the present site of
Salem, the capital of Oregon.
Here the mills were to be erected, a new school build-
ing put up, and other substantial improvements carried
on. There was no poverty among the members of the
mission; on the contrary, according to Commodore Wilkes,
there was wastefulness and reprehensible neglect of the
agricultural and mechanical tools so generously furnished
by the Board at home, who believed the mission to be
doing a good work. So far, however, from benefitting
the Indians, they were an actual injury to them. The
sudden and absolute change of habits which the Indian
students were compelled to make did not agree with
them. The first oreaking up of the ground for making
•I'M
-WHAT THE MISSION HOARD DID FOR OREGON.
289
farms caused malaria, and indncod much sickness amoiic^
them. Many had died, and many others had gone back
to tlicir former habits. Much vice and disease also pre-
vailed among the natives, which had been introduced by
deporting sailors and othc/ profligate adventurers. The
IiidiiUis coidd not be made to comprehend the spiritual
meaning of religion, and seeing among the whites thjm-
selvcs so frequent violations of what was represented to
he their belief, they ceased to regard their teachings,
until their moral condition became worse in their half-
civilized condition than it had been in their savage state.
The mission school had degenerated to such a mere pre-
tense of a school that in 1841, when Wilkes visited the
mission, he was not permitted to see it.
Hence, at the time when other settlers began to gather
into Oregon, the Methodist Mission was such by courtesy
only, and not in fact ; and of this the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany and the mountain-men were perfectly aware. This
was a colony, an American colony, stolen in under the
very nose of the Hudson's Bay Company, claiming their
friendship and their services on account of their holy call-
ing. And if the home Board was deceived, what mat-
tered it? "they builded better than they knew:" they
furnished the means by which an American colony estab-
lished itself on Oregon soil, and being once established,
it could not be dislodged.
It is no part of the writer's design to say that the event
which happened was foreseen. It was the logical result
of unforeseen circumstances. A few religious enthusiasts
had undertaken what they could not perform — the Chris-
tianizing of a low order of savages. They found them-
selves in a distant and beautiful country, where it was
easier to remain than to return. Homes were growing
up around them ; children were born here ; it was a mild
1
r
290
MEMORIAL TO CONGRESS,
and salubrious climate : why should they desire to quit
it ? As for the mission property, had it not been intended
to benefit them ? vrhj should they relinquish it ? Let the
future take care of itself
All this is not so very difficult to understand. "What
was ill-looking and hard to be comprehended was the re-
luctance with which they ever assisted any other American
settlers. It would seem natural that, in their isolated situ-
ation, surrounded by Indians, and subject most completely
to the will of the anti- American Hudson's Bay Company,
they should ardently desire an influx of their own coun-
trymen, even at a considerable expense to themselves;
for they were exceeding jealous of the British influence,
and of the designs of the British government. Already
had they memorialized Congress that they had "settled
themselves in said Territory, under the belief that it was a
part of the public domain of said States, (United States,)
and that they might rely upon the government thereof
for the blessings of free institutions and the protection of
its arms."
They had also intimated that they had reason not only
to fear the Indians, but " also othev^ that would do them
harm," meaning the Hudson's Bay Company. In this
early memorial they set forth, in glowing colors, the nat-
ural advantages and abundant resources of the Territory,
and warned the Government of the intention of the Eng-
lish to claim that portion of it, at least, which laid north
of the Columbia River, and closed by respectfully asking
for the " civil institutions of the American Republic."
In the main the memorial was correct enough, as the
Governmen'^ was aware. It was, however, ungenerous
and ungrateful toward the Hudson's Bay Company, oi
its representative. Dr. McLaughlin, who certainly had
done nothing but good to themselves and their country-
TRYING POSlliON 01'' I)U. MCLAUGIILIX.
291
men. Unless, indeed, they considered it evil for him to
be faitlifiil to the interests of the Company, and the Brit-
ish Government, as they meant to be to the interests of
their own.
It was truly an unenviable position which Dr. McLaugh-
lin held during those years of waiting for the settlement
of the boundary question. Even in his own particular
phiee and private dcnnain he was not left at peace. For
at Vancouver there were two parties, the Patriots or
Ihitish, and the Philosophers or Liberals.* Of the latter
was Dr. ]\IcLaughlin, " who held that American principles
(if legislation, in commercial and civil matters, were, gener-
ally speaking, just and humane ; and from which even
Ilritish legislation derived some useful hints." It required,
what Dr. McLaughlin was, a man of unusual force of
character and goodness of heart, to preserve the peace in
Oregon as he did do.
Had he been what he was continually suspected and
accused of being, the enemy of American settlement and
settlers, it would have been an easy matter enough to have
got rid of them altogether. Instead of entertaining, help-
ing, and succoring them on all occasions, if he had sinqoly
let them quite alone they must have perished. No snuill
community like the Methodist Mission could have sustained
it-elf in Oregon without a government, without ai'ms,
without a market, and surrounded as they were by twenty
thousand savages. It was Fort Vancouver which kept the
Indians quiet. It was the Hudson's Bay Company who
settled all difficulties with the savages, and who furnished
means of communication, transportation, and protection
at the same time. With unblushing selfishness the mission-
aries never ceased to accept and even solicit every benefit
* Oreyon Territory, By John Dunn of the II. B. C
^=;:^
292
FEAR OF CATHOLICISM,
the Company could bestoy--, at the same time they continu-
ally uttered their suspicions r.ad charges against the Com-
l)any's principal agent, who continued with wonderful
magnanimity to load them with his favors.
It was not altogether because Dr. McLaughlin wavS a
representative of the British influence in the country, that
the missionaries persisted in misconstruing his every action.
Quite as strong a reason was his sectarian belief. A
Roman Catholic was, in those days of religious prejudice,
something totally abhorrent in Protestant estimation. The
Oregon missionaries, neither Methodist nor Presbyterian,
could ever quite rid themselves of the notion that Dr.
McLaughlin was in some secret rnd mysterious manner
implicated in a design to overthrow Protestantism in Ore-
gon, and by a sort of second St. Bartholomew's Eve, to
exterminate every man, woman, and child who professed
it. What especially confirmed their suspicions was the
fact that after the Protestant missionaries had been some-
time settled in the country, the Doctor invited some priests
of his own church to do the same ; having one stationed at
"^/"ancouver, and another over the Canadian settlement at
Champoeg. Then, as might be expected, others followed,
and settled among the Lidians in the Upper country.
That the multitude of doctrines afterwards created distrust
in the minds of the savages, there can be no doubt ; but
then, could they not see that the Protestants differed
among themselves, and that the Catholics did not?
Besides the mission party, which was inimical to the
British influence, and even to the name of anything British,
there was also the American party, which was made up of
everybody American outside of the Mission. The moun-
tain-men were antagonistic from long habit, from the cus-
tom of making war upon the Hudson's Bay Company,
which the leaders of the American Fur Companies incul-
TIIK MISSION PARTY AND THE AMERICAN PARTY. 293
cated (luring years of rivalry in the mountains. As for
the few other adventurers then in Oregon, most of them
luid some personal quarrel with the H. B. Company's
af^onts, or simply joined the American party from a senti-
ment of patriotism.
Ill the case of Ewing Young, for example : When he
first came into the country from California, he was accom-
panied by Mr. Kelly, whose history has already been
ojven. Besides Kelly, tliere were a number of sailors,
deserters from vessels, and not having a very reputable
ippearanco. This party traveled in company with the
Iludson's Bay trading party through the most dangerous
part of the country, accompanying them to Vancouver.
It so happened that the trader from California brought
a letter to Dr. McLaughlin from the Spanish governor of
California, warning him against Kelly and Young, say-
inir that they had stolen horses. On this information, Dr.
McLaughlin refused to have anything to do with Young
and his associates, except Kelly, who being ill, was placed
in u house at the fort, and nursed and fed through the
winter, and finally sent to the Sandwich Islands in one of
the Company's vessels.
Ill revenge for the slight put upon him by Dr. McLaugh-
lin, Young and one of his associates, in the following year,
started the erection of a distillery, with the intention of
selling liquor to the Indians. But upon this movement
the missionaries took alarm, and oifered to pay Young the
full value of his outlay if he would give up the business and
undertake something else. To this Young and his part-
ner consented on being properly petitioned by nearly all
the white settlers in the country outside of the Hudson's
Bay Company.
Shortly after this the Cattle Company was formed, and
the mission gave Young something to do, by sending him
> /•
294
EWINO YOUNG A lUriTOHlCAL ClIAUACTER.
'l )
!i
to California for cattle, and as he received cattle for pay.
ment, and stock was immensely high in Oregon, he soon
became a man of wealth and standing. The mission made
much of him, because he was as it were, a brand snatched
from the burning, and a good hater of the Hudson's Bay
Company besides. In truth Mr. Young became a histori-
cal character by dying in the summer of 1841, and thereby
causing to be held the first Primary Meeting of the People
of Oregon. Having died possessed of considerable wealth,
and no heirs appearing to claim it on the spot, his frieiuls.
after first prudently burying him, adjourned from the graye
to the shade of a tree, and took prompt measures to "call
a public meeting for the purpose of appointing officers for
the government of the community, and ^Mri«C(!</rtW// to
provide for the 2'>r<>per disposition of the estate of Ew'mj
Young y The legend runs, that the state, that is to say
the Mission, divided the property aU'ectionately among
themselves, and that afterwards there appeared a claimant
who succeeded in regaining a portion; but that, is neither
here nor there in this narrative.
It is the writer's opinion that earthly perfection is far to
seek and hard to find; and that it does not reside in Fur
Companies' forts, nor mission establishments. One thing,
however, the mind persists in asking itself: Would there
not have been more unity among all the American settlers,
more respect for religion, and more universal benevolence
in Oregon, had the prominent men of the mission party
shown themselves less selfish and grasping ? No wonder
that when the superior benevolence of the Hudson's Bay
Company put to shame their avarice, many accounted for
the superior kindness of Dr. McLaughlin by calling it Jes-
uitical. A little more of the same Jesuitical spirit would
have softened and brightened the character of those mis-
sionaries to the future historian of Oregon.
ruSlTION OF THI>: MOUNTAIN-MEN IN OREGON.
295
Yet 1)0 it not said tliat tlioy did no good in tlicir day
and generation. If tlioy were not all eonsistont Christian
teachers, a few were. If as a class or i)arty they proved
tlu'iiiselves selfish and illiberal, they were yet as a class
advocates of good morals, and good order, of industry,
education, and free institutions.
It will be readily understood that there could be little
sympathy between the missionaries and the mountain-men,
I'or while one party prayed a great deal and very conspicu-
ously, the other never prayed at all, but on the contrary
rather inclined to make a jest of sacred matters, and pious
observances. Then too, the mission party were well-to-do,
and contiimally increasing their worldly goods by sharp
bargains and general acquisitiveness, while the mountain-
men were poor, prodigal, and not always industrious. In
short, the aristocracy of American Oregon was the Metho-
dist mission, an aristocracy second only to that of the
Hudson's Bay Company, while the mountain-men, with
big, rebellious hearts, were compelled, at the same time
that they refused, to acccjpt the position thrust upon them.
.in .:.c: ,..
..•■.;:'•*■' jH
:;:.vtvv.-;.
■^■^T
29G
WILKES EXPLOlllNG EXPEDITION.
'1/
CHAPTER XXIV,
'',('. ;■
1841. WiiEX spring opened, Meek assisted Newell in
breaking the ground for wheat. This done, it became nec-
essary to look out for sonic immediately paying employ-
luent. But paying occupations were hard to liud in that
new country. At last, like everybody else, Meek foiiiid
^ himself, if not "hanging about," at least frequently visit-
ing Vancouver. Poor as he was, and un})romising as
looked the future, he was the same light-hearted, reckless,
and fearless Joe Meek that he had been in the mountains;
as jaunty and jolly a ragged mountaineer as ever Avas seen
at the Fort. Especially he delighted in recounting his hi-
dian fights, because the Company, and Dr. McLaughlin in
particular, disapproved the American Company's conduct
with the Indians.
When the Doctor chanced to overhear Meek's stories,
as he sometimes did, he would say "Mr. Joe, Mr. Joe, — (<a
habit the Doctor had of speaking rapidly, and repeating
his words,) — Mr. Joe, Mr. Joe, you must leave off killing
Indians, and go to work." . .*;.
"I can't work," Meek would answer in his impressively
slow and smooth utterance, at the same time giving his
shoulders a slight shrug, and looking the Doctor pleasantly
in the face.
During the summer, however, the United States Explor-
ing Squadron, under Commodore Wilkes, entered the Co-
lumbia River, and proceeded to explore the country in
several directions ; and it was now that Meek found an
i\
■^r
-J
INTEIICIIANGE OF COURTESIES AT VANCOUVER.
297
oinploymcnt suited to him ; being ongag-ed by Wilkes as
pilot and servant while on his several tours through the
country.
On lh(^ arrival of three vessels of the squadron at Van-
couver, and the iirst ceremonious visit of Dr. l\leLan; Idin
aud his associates to Commodore Wilkes on board, there
was considerable display, the men in the yards, saluting-,
aud all the honors due to the representative of a frientlly
foreign power. After dinner, while the guests were walk-
ing uu dock engaged in conversation, the talk turned up-
ou the loss of the Peacock, one of the vessels beloniiinir
to the II. S. squadron, which was wrecked on the bar .at
the mouth of the Columbia. The English gentlemen were
polite enough to be expressing their regrets at the loss to
the United States, when Meek, who had picked up a little
history in spite of his life spent in the mountains, laugh-
ingly interrupted with :
"No loss at all, gentlemen. Uncle Sam can get another
Peacock the way he got that one."
Wilkes, who probably regretted the allusion, as not be-
ing consonant with the spirit of hospjitality, passed over
tlie interruption in silence. But when the gentlemen from
Vancouver had taken leave he turned to Meek with a
meaning twinkle in his eyes :
"Meek," said he, "go down to my cabin and you'll find
tliere something good to eat, and some first-rate brandy."
Of course Meek went.
While Wilkes was exploring in the Cowelitz Valley,
with Meek and a Hudson's Bay man named Forrest, as
guides, he one day laid down in his tent to sleep, leaving
his chronometer watch lying on the camp-table beside
him. Forrest, happening to observe that it did not agree
with his own, which he believed to be correct, very kindl}^,
as he supposed, regulated it to agree with his. On awak-
21)8
LAND KXrKDlTlOX TO CALIFORNIA.
cninii: niul takiiii!; u[) liis ■yvatcli, u puzzled expression came
over Wilkes' taee for ii luomeiit, as ho diseovercd tiie
ehaiige in the time ; then one of anger and disiippoinf.
ment, as what had occurred Hashed over his mind; W
lowed by some rathei" strong expressions of iiuliffniitiun.
Forrest was penitent when he perceived the mischief done
by his meddling, but that would not restore the chruiiom-
eter to the true time: and this accident proved a serious
annoyance and hindrance during the remainder of the
expedition. ><<
After exploring the Cowelitz Valley, Wilkes dispatched
a party undin* Lieutenant Eminons, to proceed up the
Wallamct Valley, thence south along the old trail of the
Hudson's Bay Company, to California. Meek was em-
ployed to pilot this party, Avhich had reached the head of
the valley, wlicn it became necessary to send for some pa-
pers in the possession of the Commodore ; and he returned
to Astoria upon this duty. On joining Emmons again lie
found that some of his men had become disaffected toward
him: especially Jandreau, the same Frenchman who
prayed so dramatically at the Dalles.
Jnnclreau confided to ^Meek that he hated Emmons, and
intenci«^'c] to kill him. The next morning when Lieut. E.
was examining the arms of the party, he fired off Jau-
dreau's gun, which being purposely overcharged, flew
back and inflicted some injuries upon the Lieutenant.
"What do you mean by loading a gun like .that?" in-
quired Emmons, in a rage.
"I meant it to kill two Lijuns; — one before, and one
behind ;" answered Jandreau. • :,.:V
As might bo conjectured Jandreau was made to fire his
own gun after that.
The expedition had not proceeded much farther when
it again became necessary to send an express to Vancou-
ii
A VISIT TO THE NEW MISSION.
2'J9
vcr, itiid Me(.'k was ordered njimi thin duty, TTore he
found lliiit Wilkes hud piircliiised a small vessel which he
iiiuiicd the On'(/on, with which lie was about to leave the
coiiiitiy. As thei-e was no further use for his services our
quuiidiiin trnpi)er was a<^'aiii thrown out of (!niploynieiit.
hi this e.\i<^eiu'y, finding it necessary to make; some pi'o-
visioti for the winter, he became a gleaner of wiieat in the
liclds of his more provident neighbors, by which means a
suHicicnt sni)ply was secured to keep himself and his small
fiiiiiilv in food nntil another spring.
When Avintcr set in. Meek paid a visit to the new mis-
sion, lie had been there once before, in the spring, to
l)iiy an axe. Think, 0 reader, of traveling fifty or more
iiiik's, on horseback, or in a small boat, to procure so sim-
ple iuid necessary an article of civilized life as an axe !
But none of the evory-day conveniencies of living grow
spontaneously in the wilderness — more's the i)ity : — else
life in the wildei'ness would bo thought more delightful
liir than life in the most luxurious of cities; inasmuch as
Xatnre is more satisfying than art.
Moek's errand to the mission on this occasion was to
fnid whether he could get a cow, and credit at the same
time; for the prospect of living for another winter on
boiled wheat was not a cheerful one. lie had not suc-
cocded, and was returning, when at Champoeg he met
a Mr. Whitcom, superintendent of the mission farm. A
conversation took place Avherein Meek's desire for a cow
became known. The missionaries never lost an opportu-
nity of proposing prayers, and Mr. Whitcom thought this
a good one. After showing much interest in the condi-
tion of ^leek's soul, it was proposed that he should pray.
"/can't pray: that's your business, not mine," said
Meek pleasantly. :''[;•■■• ^ *w. ^w,'i'j^m;.;: ^^,.U;-.^,; ■. ,.; s- -
^^m
'j^-'' i'ii}i
m
300
PRAYING FOR A COW.
"It is eveiy man's business to pray for himself," an-
swered Whitcom.
"Very well; some other time will do for that. What
I want now is a cow."
"How can you expect to get what you want, if you
wont ask for it ?"' inquired Whitcom.
"I reckon I have asked you; and I don't see nary cow
yet." ^ ^ '..:..
"You must ask God, my friend: but in the first place
you must oray to be forgiven for your sins."
"I'll tell you what I'll do. If you will furnish the cotv,
I'll agree to pray for half an hour, right here on the
spot." ......
"Down on your knees then." ■■ c • ;ym
" You'll furnish the cow ?"
"Yes," said Whitcom, fairly cornered.
Down on his knees dropped the merry reprobate, and
prayed out his half hour, with how much earnestness only
himself and Grod knew.
But the result was what he had come for, a cow ; for
Whitcom was as good as his word, and sent him home re-
joicing. And thus, with what he had earned from Wilkes,
his gleaned wheat, and his cow, he contrived to get
through another winter.
The summer had not been altogether wasted either, in
other respects. He had seer nearly the whole of West-
ern Oicgon ; had acquired not only an understanding of
its geography, but had learned to appreciate it, and its
consequence In a national point of view. He had found
it lovely, genial, and productive above any country he bad
ever seen, excepting that portion of California which he
had once visited ; — in some respects superior even to that.
He had begun to comprehend the political }.osition of Ore-
gon more thoroughly than before; he thought he knew
'7T'W«P
THE GREAT EVENT OF THE YEAR.
301
■what was good and what was bad about the Hudson's Bay
('(»in[)any's iuflueiice, and the mission influence; — in short
lie liiul been learning to be an American citizen, instead
of a mountain ranger — an individual instead of a fraction
of a company.
The events which he had been a witness to, and the
associations he had enjoyed, had been doing much to edu-
cate in him unbiased Tiews of Oregon affairs. The great
event of that summer, in Oregon, had been the presence
of the American Squadron in Oregon waters. It was un-
derstood by tlie Americans to be significant on the part
of the Government, of some action which it was about to
take in regard to thi treaty of joint occupancy. So also
it was understood by the Hudson's Bay ConiDany, The
A:nericans Avere naturally anxious to find Commodore
Wilkes favorably impressed with the country and its nat-
ural Avealth. They were also very desirous that he should
sympathize with their desire to have the United States
extend its li^overnmeut over them.
As has been elsewhere stated, the death of Ewing
Yonng, Avliich occurred early in this year, furnished the
pretext lor the first primary meeting in Oregon. Follow-
ing up the idea of a form of laws, the mission party con-
sulted with ohe United States officers on the propriety of
establisliing a civil code for the government of the colony,
and were disappointed, and not a little hurt, at finding
that they did not see the necessity for it. . m ,* ,
'• A committpc of five," says Wilkes, " priRcipally lay-members of the mis-
sion, waited upon me to consult and ask advice relative to the establishment
of liiws, etc.. After hearing attentively all theii- arguments and reasons for
this change, T pould see none suflicient'y strong to induce this step. No crime
a])iK'ai'.s yet to have been committed, and the persons and property of settlers
are secure. Their principal reasons appear to me to be, that it Avould give
tlu'in more importance in ihe eyes of others at a distance, and induce settlers
to Hock in, thereby r.aising the value of their farms awd stock. I could not
view the subject in such a light, and differed with them entirely as to the ne-
cessity or policy of adopting the change."
|.^i'*
• f
:.f fi
302
THE "star of OREGON."
^l.
Commodore Wilkes knew, and everybody knew, tliat
the British interest rlrcady felt itself threatened by the
presence of the exploring expedition. So sensitive T\'as
Wilkes on this subject, that he preferred camping outside
the Fort to accepting its hospitalities. He felt that for
the Americans to follow it up immediately with any at-
tempt at an independent government, would, or might he,
to precipitate upon the Government the necessity of
action for which it was not yet pro} ;"ev ^r to provoke
an enmity by no means desirable in ilh;.jl present weak-
condition.
Another difliculty was also submitted to Commodore
Wilkes. A party of eight young men from the States,
who had, lilvc other adventurers, drifted into Oregon irom
the mountains and California, had determined to return
to their homes, because, as they said, there were no young
white women in that country to marry, and they were
unwilling to remain without female society, or to take
native wives. Not being able to reeross the conJiu.nt,
Oiey had determined to build a vessel and to g- by .^ea,
at least so far as the Bay of San Francisco, ^ i\ ' ":;y
might fall in Avith a trading vessel going home. .1' i -1/
of them knew anything abou. navigation, though oii ^ ,
them was a ship-carpenter, but they trusted they should
be al)le to sail their little craft, which they had named
the Star of Oregon., safely to some port where assistance
could reach them. What they wanted of the Commodore
was a sea-letter, aad that he sh-^ m' intercede with Dr.
McLaughlin, who, through some misunder'-' •: Jiiig, had
refused them any further supplies. On receiv;' ;i f dvlcc
from Wilkes that they should explain to Dr. McLaughlin
whatever seemed wrong tv^ hip\ they did so, and obtained
the necessary ropes, sail.?, proA ■'-'-^Tis, etc., for their vessel,
and linally made a safe voyage to San Francisco, where
^^!W
CELEBRATION OF MARRIAGE.
303
Icncw,
led by the
isitive was
ng outside
It that for
th any at-
■ might be,
cessity of
0 provoke
3sent weak
ommodore
;he States,
■egon iTom
. to return
) no young
thev were
DP to take
con.iucnt,
-■'
.:oa.
they sold dieir vessel for a good price, and took passage
home by some larger one. Such were some of the ex-
amples of successful daring which the early history of
Oregon furnished.
During this summer, also, a trading vessel — the Thomas
Perkins, from Boston, Yarneij, master, — entered the Co-
hnubia with a cargo of Indian goods and liquor. To pre-
vent the liquor being sold to the Indians, Dr. McLaughlin
liouglit up the \vhole cargo, storing the liquor at Vancou-
ver, where it remained for several years untasted. Had
that liquor got among the Indians, it is most probable
that the American colony would have been destroyed, or
, riven into Fort Vancouver for protection.
Perhaps the most important person?! event which dis-
tinguished this year in Meek's history, was the celebra-
tion, according to the rites of the Christian church, of his
marriage with the Nez Perce woman who had already
borne him two children, and who still lives, the mother
of a family of seven.
gll Oi. ^ , '
ey should
ad named
assistance
3mmodorc
v/ith Dr.
.1'.ig, had
V rdvicc
cLaughlin
1 obtained
pcir vessel
ico, where
20
304
THE BALANCE OF TOWEil LS' OKEUON.
CPIAPTEH XXV.
1842. By the opening of another spring, Meek had
so far overcome his distaste for form labor as to put in a
field of wheat for himself, with Donghty, and to make
some arrangements about his future subsistence. This
done, he was ready, as usual, for anything in the way of
adventure which might turn up. This was, however, a
very quiet summer in the little colony. Important events
were brooding, but as yet results were not perceptible,
except to the mind of a prophet. The Hudson's Bay
Company, conformably to British policy, were at work
to turn the balance of power in Oregon in favor of Brit-
ish occupation, and, unknown even to the colonists, tlie
United States Government was taking what measures it
could to shift the balance in its own favor. Very little
was said about the subject of government claims among
the colonists, but a feeling of suspense oppressed all
parties.
The work of putting in wheat and improving of farms
had just begun to slacken a little, when there was an ar
rival in the Columbia River of a vessel from Boston— the
Chenamus^ Captain Couch. The Chenaiim. brought a
cargo of goods, which were placed in store at Wallamet
Falls, to be sold to the settlers, being the first successful
attempt at trade ever made in Oregon, outside of the
Hudson's Bay and Methodist Mission stores.
When the Fourth of July came, the Chenamm was
THE FOURTH OF JULY.
305
was anar-
Iviu"- in the Wtilliimet, below the Falls, near where the
nrcseiit city of Portland stands. Meek, who was always
first to be at any spot where noise, bustle, or excitement
miu'lit bu anticipated, and wdiose fine humor and fund of
aiii'cdoto made him always welcome, had borrowed a boat
li'oiu Cnpt. Couch's clerk, at the Falls, and gone down to
the vessel early in the morning, before the salute for the
(llorious Fourth w\as fired. There he remained aU day,
enjoying a patriotic swagger, and an occasional glass of
something good to drink. Other visitors came aboard
during the day, which was duly celebrated to the satisfac-
tion of all.
Towards evening, a party from the Mission, wishing to
return to the Falls, took possession of Meek's borrowed
l.ioat to go off with. Now was a good opportunity to
show tlie value of free institutions. Meek, like other
mountain-men, felt the distance which the missionaries
placed between him and themselves, on the score of their
moral and social superiority, and resented the freedom
with which they appropriated what he had with some
trouble secured to himself Intercepting the party when
more than half of them were seated in the boat, he in-
formed them that they were trespassing upon a piece of
property which for the present belonged to him, and for
which he had a very urgent need. Vexed by the delay,
and by having to relincpiish the boat to a man wdio, ac-
cording to their view of the case, could not "read his
title clear," to anything either on earth or in heaven, the
missionaries expostulated somewhat warmly, but Meek in-
sisted, and so compelled them to wait for some better
opportunity of leaving the ship. Then loading the boat
with what was much more to the purpose — a good supply
of provisions. Meek proceeded to drink the Captain's
liealth in a very ostentatious manner, and take his leave.
/K
i;
ii .
I'"
1 ). ', ■
3
306
ARRIVAL OF AN INDIAN AGENT.
■li
■il
This slight encounter is related only to illustrate the sort
of feeling which made the missionaries and those Ameri-
cans usually denominated as "settlers," two parties instead
of one.
The summer passed away, the harvest was gathered,
and in September there was a fresh excitement in the
Valley. Dr. White, a member of the mission, who came
out in 1840, quarreled with the superintendent of the
mission, Mr. Lee, and returned to the States in 1841, now
re-appeared in Oregon as the bearer of glad tidings. It
appeared that Dr. White, after settling his affairs with the
Board at home, had given such information to the Gov-
ernment concerning Oregon affairs, as had induced the
Executive to commission him Indian Agent, with certain
not very clearly defined powers. What these powers
were, did not at first so much interest the community, as
that he had any at all ; for the fact of his holding any
commission from the United States indicated to them that
the Government was about to take a step in their behalf,
which their eager imaginations willingly construed into a
settlement of the boundary question, the erection of a
territorial government in Oregon, and the complete dis-
comfiture of the Hudson's Bay Company.
In addition to the pleasure which Dr. White's commis-
sion gave, he was able to furnish another and equally
good promise for the future, in the shape of a printed
copy of a bill, then before the Senate, proposing to do-
nate 640 acres of ..vud to every white male inhabitant,
half that quantity to a wife, and one-fourth to every child
under eighteen years of age. That these liberal offers
were contained in Mr. Linn's bill was well understood to
be a bid for settlers, nor did the colonists doubt that it
would induce emigration.
• To crown their satisfaction, over a hundred immigrants
5«1
RECEPTION OF THE IMMIGRANTS.
307
liad accompanied Dr. AVliite on his return, each with a
copy of Mr. Linn's bill in their hands, as it were to show
their title to the country. These immigrants had left
their wagons at Fort Hall, having been overtaken by
heavy storms, and concluded their journey on horseback,
traveling from the Dalles of the Columbia to the Wallamet
Falls, by a trail over the Cascade mountains and around
the base of Mt. Hood, thus avoiding Fort Vancouver en-
tirely.
To receive the new comers properly, required some
considerable exertion on the part of the colony, which
Avas hardly prepared in matter of tenements and provis-
ions for such an influx of population. However, being
the first invoice, they were made very welcome, and the
more so, that there were among them a number of intelli-
gent professional gentlemen, with their families, and that,
fur the most part, all were in independent circumstances.
The only thing that dampened the ardor of the colonists
was, that Dr. White affirmed that 'his authority among
tliem amounted to that of governor of the colony. Now,
ill the first place, they had not any government, therefore
could not have any governor. True, there had been cer-
tain, persons elected to fill certain offices, on the occasion
before referred to, of the death of Young. But there
had been no occasion for the exercise of their various
functions, and the whole matter was of doubtful substan-
tiality. Besides, if they were to have a governor, which
they persisted they did not need, they would have desired
to signify their preference. After considerable contro-
versy, Dr. White was finally obliged to be satisfied with
liis Indian agency, and Oregon got on as before, without
a governor. . ^ - • .- ;
As might be anticipated, the Hudson's Bay Company
were not well pleased with the turn affairs seemed taking.
¥
i
5 *.
308
THE ASIinUTlTON TREATY.
They, on their own part, wcr-^ watching the action of
their own and the United States government, and had
their colonization schemes beside, as well as the Ameri-
cans. ISir George Simpson, governor of the Hudson's
Bay Company, had induced about one hundred and fifty
of the French Canadian and Scotch settlers of the Red
Kiver settlement to come down into Oregon and locate
on the North side of the Columbia. Their arrival hap-
pened rather later than that of the American immigrants,
and was in no way satisfactory, since most of them dis-
liked the portion of country assigned to them, that being
the gravelly region around Puget Sound, and finally set-
tled in the Wallamet Valley.
In the meantime, however. Dr. Whitman, of the Waii-
latpn Mission, in the upper country, was so fearful of the
intentions of the British government that he set out for
Washington late in the autumn of 1842, to put the Sec-
retary of State on his guard concerning the boundary
question, and to pray that it might be settled conformably
with the wishes of the Americans in Oregon. On his ar-
rival he found that the treaty known as the " Ashburton
Treaty" had been confirmed in the preceding summer,
and that it avoided all reference to the Oregon boundary,
by simply fixing upon a line for our frontier, extending
from the Atlantic coast to the Lake of the Woods, or less
than half-way across the continent. He, however, con-
ferred with Mr. Webster on the subject, representing to
him the folly of being persuaded to " swap off the Oregon
territory for a cod-fishery," and probnl)ly was able to en-
lighten him on the value of said territory.
It was in March, 1843, that Dr. Whitman arrived at
Washington. On reaching the Missouri frontier he had
found that a large number of persons held themselves in
readiness to emigrate, on the strength of Mr. Linn's bill,
11
EMIGRATION' FROM MISSOURI.
309
!ver, con-
shoiikl it pass. To tlicsc he spoke encourngingly, advising
thorn to go Avitliout delay, as such a bill "would certainly
1)0 passed. Hastening over his business at Washington,
he returned to the frontier early, joining the emigration,
to whom he proved a most useful friend, and indefatigable
(Tuidc and assistant. Such was the struggle for the pos-
session of the Oregon Territory.
There was one feature, however, of this otherwise
rather cntcrtainiug race for possession, which was becora-
incr (|uite alarming. In all this strife about claiming the
country, the Indian claim had not been considered. It
has been already mentioned that the attempt to civilize or
Christianize the Indians of western Oregon was practically
an entire failure. But they were not naturally of a war-
like disposition, and had been so long under the control
of the Hudson's Bay Company that there was compara-
tively little to apprehend from them, even though they
felt some discontent at the incoming immigration.
But with the Indians of the upper Columbia it was dif-
fereut ; especially so with the tribes among whom the
Presbyterian missionaries were settled — the Walla- Wallas,
Cayuscs, and Nez Perces, three brave and powerful na-
tions, much united by intermarriages. The impression
;vhicli these people had first made on the missionaries was
very favorable, their evident intelligence, inquisitiveness,
and desire for religious teachings seeming to promise a
good reward of missionary labor. Dr. Whitman and his
associates had been diligent in their efforts to civilize and
Christianize them — to induce the men to leave off their
migratory habits and learn agriculture, and the women to
learn spinning, sewing, cooking, and all the most essential
arts of domestic, life. At the first, the novelty of these
new pursuits engaged their in.erest, as it also excited
their hope of gain. But the task of keeping them to
n .»"■
■4
■j.i ,
t ,/'!!
^;%
$
310
DISCONTENT OF THE INDIANS.
tlicir "work with sufTieiont stcudincss, was very great.
They re(|uirecl, like cliiklren, to be bribed witli promises
of more or less iinmeditite reward of tlieir exertions, nor
would tliey relinquish the fiiHiluient of a promise, even
though they had failed to perform the conditions on which
the promise became binding.
By-and-by they made the discovery that ncitlier the
missionaries could, nor the white man's God did, confer
upon them what they desired — the enjoyment of all the
blessings of the Avhite men — and that if they wished to
enjoy these blessings, they must labor to obtain them.
This discovery was very discouraging, inasmuch as the
Indian nature is decidedly averse to steady labor, and
they could perceive that very little was to be expected
from any progress which could be achieved in one gen-
eration. As for the Christian faith, they understood about
as much of its true spirit as savages, with the law of
blood written in their hearts, could be expected to under-
stand. Thoy looked for nothing more nor less than the
literal fulfilment of the Bible ^jromises — nothing less
would content them ; and as to the forms of their new
religion, they liked them well enough — liked singing and
praying, and certain orderly observances, the chiefs lead-
ing in these as in other matters. So much interest did
they discover at first, that their teachers were deceived
as to the actual extent of the good they were doing.
As time went on, however, there began to be cause for
mutual dissatisfaction. The Indians became aware that
no matter how many concessions their teachers made to
them, they were still the inferiors of the whites, and that
they must ever remain so. But the thought which pro-
duced the deepest chagrin was, that they had got these
white people settled amongst them by their own invita-
tion and aid, and that now it was evident they were not
MISt^ION STATIONS OF THE UPPEIl COUNTllY.
311
to be bcnofited as liiul been hoped, as the wliites were
tiiriiing their attention to benefiting themselves.
As early as 1839, Mr. Smith, an associate of Mr. Spahl-
iiiij; in the country of the Nez Perces, was forbidden by
the high chief of the Nez Perces to cultivate the ground.
He iiad been permitted to build, but was assured that if ho
brolvL' the soil for the purpose of farming it, the ground
s ) Ijroken should serve to bury him in. Still Smith went
on in tlie spring to prepare for ploughing, and the chief
seeing him ready to begin, inquired if he recollected that
he liiul l)ecn forbidden. Yet persisting in his undertaking,
several of the Indians came to him and takhig him by the
shoulder asked him again "if he did not know that the hole
he should make in the earth would be made to serve for
his grave." Upon which third warning Smith left off, and
(jiiitted the country. Other missionaries also left for the
Wallanict Valley. • ^
In 1842 there were three mission stations in the upper
country; that of Dr. Whitman at Waiilatpu on the Walla-
Walla River, that of Mr. Spalding on the Clearwater Iliver,
called Lapwai, and another on the Spokane River, called
Cimakaiu. These missions were from one hundred and
twenty to three hundred miles distant from each other,
and numbered altogether only about one ''c /5en whites of
both sexes. At each of these stations there was a small
body of land under cultivation, a few cattle and hogs, a
flouring and saw mill, and blacksmith shop, and such im-
provements as the needs of the mission demanded. The
Indians also cultivated, under the direction of their teach-
ers, some little patches of ground, generally but a small
garden spot, and the fact that they did even so much was
very creditable to those who labored to instruct them.
There was no want of ardor or industry in the Presbyterian
,\^
\
: .l
i:|
f-4
f'-:
'■'1'
w
iL
i||-
1
' f''*'
fW '
i 1^ ■
El^i
! 'i'
Ml
til^'li
312 THK MISHIONAUIE8 INSULTED AND TlIHEATKxNED.
miasion; on the contniry thoy applied tliomsclves conscien-
tiously to the work they had uudertukoii.
But this conscientious dischari^^c of duty did not give
them immunity from outrnf^e. Both Mr. 8[)iddin(]f and Dr.
Whitman liad been rudely handled by the Indians, had
been struck and spat upon, and had nose and oars pulled
Even the delicate and devoted Mrs. Spalding had been
grossly insulted. Later the Cayuses had assailed I)r. Whit-
man in his house with war-clubs, and broken down doors
of communication between the private apartments and tlic
public sitting room. Explanations and promises gencrully
followed these acts of outrage, yet it " aid seem that the
missionaries should have been warne(
The station at Waiilatpu being near fort Walla- Walla
was much resorted to by visitors and travelers. Dr. Whit-
man, who looked upon the country as belonging to the
United States, and who was actively ojiposcd to British in-
fluence from ])atriotic motives, had frequent and long con-
versations with his visitors not only on the subject of the
American claim, but upon the natural advantages of the
country, the fertility of its soil, and kindred topics, much
of which the Indians, who were always about the mission,
were able to understand, and from which they gathered
that the Americans intended to possess the country which
they considered as their own. They had seen that year
by year, for a long time, some Americans had passed
through their country and gone down to settle in the Walla-
met Valley. They had had a fresh alarm in the recent
emigration which had accompanied Dr. White from the
States. But most conclusive of all was the fact of Dr.
Whitman's visit to Washington, and his avowed inten-
tion of bringing back with him a large party of settlers
to hold the country against the English. • •, /.
l)i;. WIIITK VI81TS THE' NEZ PEUCEB AND CAYUSEB. 313
mmm
Tiikinfjjfi(lvjintagGof Dr. Wliitman'sabsonco, tlio Cnynsos
hud IVi^lilened ^Irs. Whilinaii IVoiri lu'V homo to tlio Meth-
odist mission at the Dulles, by breaking into her bcd-cham-
lici' at night, with an infnnious design from -which she
hiiiclv escaped, and by snbseqnently bnrning down the
mill and destroying a consid(»rable qnantity of grain.
About the same time the Ncz Perces at the Jjiipwni mission
were very insolent, and had tlu'eatened ^Ir. Spalding's life ;
nil of which, one would say, was but a poor return for the
care and instruction bestowed upon them during six years
of patient effort on the part <d' their teaeliers. Poor as it
was, the Indians did not S(3C it in that light, but only
tlionglit of the danger which threatened them, in the possi-
ble loss of their country.
The nnonsinoss among the Indians had so much increased
since Dr. AMntman's departure, that it became necessary,
in November, for the newly arrived Indian agent to make
a journey to the upper coinitry to inquire into the cause
of the disturbances, and if j)ossible to adjust the diflicul-
tic's. In order the better to succeed in this, Dr. White
obtained the services of Thomas McKav of the Hudson's
Bay Conq^any — a son of that ill-fated McKay Avho perished
onboard the Tonquin in 1811, and whose mother, a half-
breed woman, was afterwards married to Dr. McLaughlin.
Both by his Indian blood, his long service in the Hud-
son's Bay Company, and the natural urbanity of his dispo-
sition, Mr. McKay was a man of note among the Indians ;
understanding their peculiarities better, and having more
influence over thein than almost any trader in the whole
country. Half a dozen well armed men, and two inter-
preters, were the only escort which, according to McKay,
ivas thought necessary. With this small party the agent
proceeded to the mission station at Waiilatpu, where some
314
A CODE OP LAWS FOR THE NEZ PERCES.
r ■■
w
gentlemen of the mission were staying, Mrs. Whitman
being absent at the Dalles. After taking note of the injury
done to the mission property here, the party contiruied on
to the Lapwai mission, where they had sent word for the
chiefs of the disaffected tribes to meet them.
Then took place the customary exchange of "talks"
which always characterize the Indian council. The Indians
were grave and dignified; they heard the addresses of the
agent and his friends, and received the compliments paid
to their advancement in the arts and in letters, with the
utmost decorum. They professed themselves desirous of
peace, and appeared satisfied ^vith the promises made by
the agent concerning what the Great Father of the United
States intended doing for them.
As has been stated in another place the Hudson's Bay
Company had done all it could to destroy chieftainships
among the tribes, in o: iei.* to prevent coalitions among
them. Dr. White restored i^ among the Nez Perces,
by counseling them to elect one rJgh chief, and to have
besides a chief to every village, in all ah 'it a dozen.
to assist him in the administration of the ^iws. A code
of laws for their government was then proposed and
agreed to, which made hanging the punishment for murder
or for burning a dwelling house. Theft was punishable
by double payment, and by whipping. Misdemeanor'
generally were left to the discretion of the chiefs, the
penalties being in most cases fines, and in some cases
whipping.
The naturally good character of the Nez Perces,
and the presence and sanction of two of the Hudson's
Bay Compan};, McKay, and McKiniey of Walla- Walla,
made it comparatively easy for Dr. W^hite to arrange
a peace with the Indians at Lapwai. On returning to
fl
L
"^p
DR. WHITE . RETURNS TO THE WALLAMET.
315
Whitman
the injury
itinued on
•rd for the
)f "talks"
he Indians
sses of the
nonts paid
, with the
[esiroQS of
; made b)
the United
Waiihitpn, however, few of the chiefs were found to be
assembled, Avliile many of them held aloof, and noth-
ing satisfactory was concluded. Under these circum-
stances Dr. White left an appointment to meet thcni
in April, of the next year, for the purpose of holdin<^
a council. He then returned to the Wallamct, to watch
the course of events in the colony.
son's Bay
pftain ships
ns among
ez Perces,
id to have
a dozen,
A code
)0sed and
fjr murder
punishable
iemeanor"
diiefs, the
imG cases
.4]
z Perces,
Hudson's
illa-Walla,
D arrange
urning to
a
; ■■■"' '
316
THE PLOT THICKENS.
CHAPTER XXVI.
^■.
1842-3. The plot thickened that -winter, in the little
drama being enacted west of the Rocky Mountains. As
much as Dr. McLaughlin had felt it to be his duty towards
his country and the company he served, to do what he
could to secure their interests, he had also always acknowl-
edged the claims of humanity, hospitality, and social good
feeling. So much, ni fact, did his nature lean towards the
social virtue of brotherly love, that he became sometimes
the object of criticism bordering on censure, to his asso-
ciates, who on their side were as patriotic as the Ameri-
cans on theirs.
^A, But so rapidly portentous events seemed hurrying on
at this particular juncture, that the good Doctor was led
to doubt almost that he had done the best thing in extend-
ing the hand of fellowship so freely to the political ene-
mies of Gr'^at Britain. His critics might with some justice
accuse him of encouraging American settlement in Oregon,
and of giving just that touch required, to shift the balance
of power into the hands of the United States. Such a
suspicion against him would be bad enough in the eyes of
his superiors ; but the pain it would occasion him could
hardly be exceeded by that occasioned by the denial to
such a suspicion given by the settlers themselves.
In a memorial to the Congress of the United States they
had petitioned for the protection of Government upon the
express ground that they apprehended harm, not only
I. II I "«ilWii»
FOHMS OF GOVERNMENT DISCUSSED.
31T
from Iho Indians, but from the Hudson's Bay Company ;
wliicli approlicnsion was a direct insinuation or accusation
niriiinst Dr. McLaughlin. Naturally of a temper as irrita-
ble as his heart was warm and generous, these attacks
u})t)u his honor and humanity by tl.o very individuals
whom he had ever shown himself willing to serve, annoyed
liim excessively, and occasioned him to say that to those
individuals who had signed the obnoxious memorial he
wo''l'l never more show favor. As might bo expected, this
parc'onable show of indignation was made to stand for a
tlircnt against the welfare of the whole colony.
To add to the confusion, the subject of a form of gov-
ernment continued to be agitated in the colony. So far
as legal forms were necessary to the welfare of the Hud-
son's Bay Company, they had in their charter certain priv-
ileges of arrest and punishment suflicient for the preser-
vation of good order amon^^ i heir omphiy^s ; hence had no
need for any thing further in ihe way uf laws. Why ihcn
should they be desirous of joining any foreign organiza-
tion, or of subscribing to the laws mad^' by a pcw[)le who
owed allegiance to a rival government, and th( eby
strengthening their hands against their own government?
Sueh was the logical reasoning of the Canadian settlers
on the Wallamet, who at that time rather out numbered
the Americans.
On the other hand, it was equally logical foi .e Ameri-
cans to fear that a code of laws intended only to apply to
a portion of the population, would prove of little service^
and might be provocative of frequent difiiculties; inas-
much as any criminal might take refuge under the flag of
the Ilndson's Bay Company, and escape by that Compa-
ny's denial of jurisdiction.
In this interval of doubt, the colony managed to get
along very well without any laws. But the subject was
If/It
il
318
THE WOLF ASSOCIATION.
I i
If
not allowed to rest. Some truly lo7ig-lioadod politicians
had hit upon aii expedient to unite the population, Cana-
dian and American, u])on one common ground of interest.
The forests which clad the mountains and foothills in
perpetual verdure, and the thickets which skirted the nu-
merous streams flowing into the Wallamet, all al)ouiiclod
in wild animals, wdiose depredations upon the domestic
cattle, lately introduced into the country, were a serious
drawback to their natural increase. Not a settler, owning
cattle or hogs, but had been robbed more or less fre-
quently by the wolves, bears, and panthers, Avhich prowled
unhindered in the vicinity of their herds. ; rukf
Tliis was a ground of common interest to all settlers of
whatever allegiance. Accordingly, a notice was issued
that a meeting would be held at a certain time and place,
to consider the best means of preventing the destruction
of stock in the country, and all persons 'nterestcd were
invited to attend. This meeting was held on the 2cl of
February, 1843, and was well attended by both classes of
colonists. It served, however, only as a preliminary step
to the regular "Wolf Association" meeting which took
place a month later. At the meeting, on the 4th of March,
there was a full attendance, and the utmost harmony pre-
vailed, notwithstanding there was a w^ell-defmed suspicion
in the minds of the Canadians, that they were going to be
called upon to furnish protection to something more than
the cattle and hogs of the settlers.
After the proper parliamentary forms, and the choosing
of the necessary offit 'rs for the Association, the meeting
proceeded to fix the rate of bounty for each animal killed
by any one out of the Association, viz. $3.00 for a large
wolf; $1.50 for a lynx; $2.00 for a boar; and $5.00 for
a panther. The money to pay these bounties was to be
raised by subscription, and handed over to the treasurer
A COMMITTEE OF TWELVE APPOINTED.
319
for (lisbiir?"'ment ; the currency being drafts on Port Van-
couver, the .iission, and the Milling Company; besides
wheat and other commodities.
This business being arranged, the real object of the
meeting" was announced in this wise :
^'Bcsolvcd, — That a committee be appointed to take into
consideration the propriety of taking measures for the
civil and military protection of this colony."
A committee of twelve were then selected, and the
meeting adjourned. But in that committee there was a
most subtle mingling of all the elements — missionaries,
mountain-men, and Canadians — an attempt by an offer of
the honors, to fuse into one all the several divisions of po-
litical sentiment in Oregon.
That the Canadians were prepared for something of this
kind was probable from several circumstances. In the
first place, the subject of government, in several forms,
had been openly discussed that winter. The immigration,
of the previous autumn had added, much to the social re-
sources of the colony, both in numbers, and in variety of
ideas. The colony was not so much a missionary institu-
tion as formerly, simply because there had been an influx
of other than missionary brains ; and there w^ere people
now in Oregon, who, after studying the position of affairs,
were able to see the merits and demerits of the various
propositions brought up. Even in the Debating Society,
which was maintained by the most able men of the colony
and of the Hudson's Bay Company, at the Wallamet Falls,
the subject of a provisional form of government was freely
and fully discussed ; — some parties favoring the adoption
of a simple code of such laws as were needful to regulate
society in that isolated country, temporarily, until the
United States should recognize and adopt them into the
Union. Others wished for an independent form of gov-
21
r», S
i
320
A rUOVISIONAL GOVERNMENT RECOMMENDED.
crnment, acknowledging no {illegiancc to any other, eitlior
then or kiter. A few still argued for no change in the
then existing state of things, feeling that no necessity had
yet arisen for manufacturing governments.
Of the independent government party Dr. McLaughlin
was Lelieved to be. Even some of the mission party fa-
vored a separate government, if, after waiting a term of
four years, the United States had set up no claim to their
allegiance. But the greater number of the people, not
Canadians, and the mountain-men especially, were for a
provisional government to last as long r.s in the course of
events it was needed, after which its pc wers were to re-
vert to the United States. '. ''■ ■?'"
In viev/" of all this talk, the Canadianr, were prepared
with an address which was to express thei ; view of the
case, and would have presented it at the m.^eting of the
Wolf Association, had not that meeting been so thorou?hlv
"wolfish" in its action as almost to disarm suspicion, and
quite prevent any reference to the main topic of thought
in all minds. The address was therefore reserved for a
more appropriate occasion, which was not long in coming.
On the 2d day of May, 1843, the committee appointed
March 4th to "take into consideration the propriety of tak-
ing measures for the civil and military protection of the
colony," met at Champoeg, the Canadian settlement, and
presented to the i3eople their ultimatum in favor of organ-
izing a provisional government.
On a motion being made that the report of the commit-
tee should be accepted, it was put to vote, and lost. All
^ -was now confusion, various expressions of disappointment
or gratification being mingled in one tempest of sound.
When the confusion had somewhat subsided, Mr. G. W.
LeBreton made a motion that the meeting should divide;
those who were in favor of an organization taking their
M'r
KEPOIIT ACCEPTED — THE DIE CAST.
321
i)ositions on the right hand ; and those opposed to it on
the lelt, marching into lile. The propcxsition carried ; and
Joe Meek, who, in all this historical reminiscence we have
almost lost sight of — though he had not lost sight of
^.y^>lx[ii — stepped to the front, with a characteristic air of
the tree-born American in his gait and gestures: —
'• Who's for a divide ! All in favor of the Report, and
au Organization, follow me!" — then marched at the head
of his column, which speedily fell into line, as did also the
op})ositc party.
On counting, fifty-two were found to be ou the right
baud side, and fifty o]i the left, — so evenly were the
two parties balanced at that time. When the result was
made known, once more Mcek's voice rang out —
"Three cheers for our side!"
It did not need a second invitation ; but loud and long
the shout went up for Fheedom ; and loudest and longest
were heard the voices of the American •'mountain-men."
Thus the die was cast which made Oregon ultimately a
nieiuber of the Federal Union.
The Canadians were somewhat alarmed ai: the demon-
strations they had witnessed, and withdrew from the meet-
ing soon after the last vote was taken, not, however, with-
out presenting the address, whicn had been previously
prepared ; and which is given here, both as a curiosity of
literature, and a comprehensive bit of Oregon history.
• '•^■'^■
ADDRESS
OF THE CANADIAN CITIZENS OF OIIEGON TO THE MEETING AT CHAMPOEG.
MARCH 4th, 1843.
We, the Canadian citizens of the WiHamette, considering, with interest and
iX'llection, the subject which unites the people at the present meeting, present to
ilii' AnnTican citizens, and particuhvrly to the gentlemen who called said meet-
iiip'. the unanimous expression of our sentiments of c./rdiality, desire of imion
iind inexhaustible peace between all the people, in view of our duty and the in-
terest of the new colony, and declare ; —
i . i
**— ■
,U.X.::-
322
ADDKESS OF THE CANADIANS.
It
1st. That wc wish for hiws, or reguhitions, for the welfare of our persons
and the security of our property and hihors,
2d. Tliat we do not intend to rebel against the measures of that kind taken
last yeai', l)y a party of the people ; — although we do not approve of eertaia
regulations, nor certain modes of laws; — let those magistrates finish their time,
3d. Tiiat we will not address a new petition to the Government of the Uni-
ted States, because we have our reasons, till the line be decided, and the fron-
tiers of the states are fixed.
4th. That Ave are opposed to the regulations anticipated, and exposed to
consequences for the quantity, direction, &c., of lands, and whatsoever expiMise
for the same lands, because we have no direct guarantee from the government
to come, and, perhaps, to-morrow, all thoj^e measures may be broken.
5th. That we do not wish a provisional mode of government, too self-inter-
ested, and full of degrees, useless to our j)ower, and overloading the colony in-
stead of imjjroving it ; besides, men of laws and science are too scarce, and
have too much to do in such a new country.
Gth. That we wish either the mode of senate jr council, to judge the difE-
culties, punish the crimes, (except capital penalties,) fid make the regulations
suitable to the people.
7th. That the same council be elected, and composed of members from all
parts of the country, and should act in body, on the plan of civilized countries
in parliament, or as a jury, and to be represented, for example, by the president
of said council, and another member, as judge of peace, in each county, allow-
ing the principle of recalling to the whole senate.
8th. Tliat the members should be influenced to interest themselves to their
own welfare, and that of the public, by the love of doing good, rather than l)y
the hope of gain, in order to take off from the esteem of the people all suspi-
cions of interest in the persons of their representatives.
9th. Tliat they must avoid every law loading, and inexpedient to the peo-
ple, especially to the new arrivals. Unnecessary taxes, and whatever records
are of that kind, we do not want them.
10th. That the militia is useless at present, and rather a danger of bad sus-
picion to the Indians, and a dcday for the necessary labors, in the same time it
is a load ; we do not want it, either, at present.
11th. That we consider the country free, at present to all nations, till gov-
ernment shall have decided ; open to every individual wishing to settle, without
any distinction of origin, and without asking him anything, either to become an
English, Spanish, or American citizen.
I 1 2th. So we, English subjects, proclaim to be free, as well as those who
came from France, California, United States, or even natives of this country;
and we desire unison with all the respectable citizens who wish tg settle in this
country * or, we ask to be recognized as free amongst ourselves, to make r.ich
regulations as appear suitable to our wants, save the general interest of hanng
justice from all strangers who might injure us, and that our reasonable customs
and pretensions be respected.
ELECTION OF OFFICERS — MEEK CHOSEN SHERIFF. 323
l.'ltli. Tliat wo are willinr; to submit to any lawful govcrnuR'nt, when it
coini's.
14tii. That we, do not iorjrct that we must make laws only for nceessary oir-
cuins'tances. llie more laws there are, the more opportunities for ro;,fiierv, for
those who make a practice of it, and, perhaps, the more alterations there "will
be ?'>nio day.
lath. That we do not forget in a trial, that before all fraud on fulfdling of
fdiiu' points of law, the ordintiry proofs of the certainty of the fact ought to be
(liih- wci'^iicd, so that justice may be done, and no shame given for fraud.
Itltli, In a new country, the more men employed and paid by the public, the
less ri'iiiains for industry.
17tli. That no one can be more desirous than we arc for the prosperity,
ainclioratioiis, and general peace of the country, and especially for the guaran-
ti'o of our rights and liberties ; and such is the wish we make for all those who
are, or may become, our fellow<'ountrynien, &c., for long years of peace.
[Then follow our names and persons.]
■'if
The business of the meeting was concluded by the elec-
tion of a Supreme Judge, with probate powers, a clerk
of the court, a sheriff, four magistrates, four constables,
a trea.surer, a mayor, and a captain, — the two latter offi-
cers being instructed to form companies of mounted rifle-
men. In addition to these officers, a legislative committee
^vas chosen, consisting of nine members, who were to re-
port to the people at a public meeting to be held at Cham-
poeg on the 5th of July following. Of the legislative
committee, two were mountain-men, with whose names the
reader is familiar — Newell and Doughty. Among the
other appointments, was Meek, to the office of sheriff; a
position for which his personal qualities of courage and
good humor admirably fitted him in the then existing state
of society.
And thus was formed the Provisional Government of
Oregon — a country without a governor, or any magiste-
rial head ; and without a treasury, or means to pay its leg-
islative committee, except by subscription, and * at the
rate of $1.25 per day in orders on some of the few busi-
ness firms west of the Rocky Mountains. On the 4th of
324
THE FIRST OREGON LEGISLATURE.
July the people mot at Charapoeg to celebrate the day,
and eainped on the ground, to be in readiness for the
meeting of the 5th. At this meeting the reports of the
various committees of the legislature were approved by
the people, Dr. McLaughlin voting with the others.
At this meeting the Judiciary Committee recommeiKled
that the executive power should be vested in a committee
of three persons^ elected by qualified voters at the aniiuiil
election, who should have power to grant pardons and re-
prieve fur offences against the laws of the territory; to
call out the military force of the territory to repel inva-
sion or suppress insurrection, to take care that the laws
were faithfully executed, and to recommend such laws as
they may consider necessary, to the representatives of the
people, for their action : two members of this committee
to constitute a quorum to transact business. ,; ;.);))-,
Among the most notable of the acts of the first Oregon
legislature, was one which regarded a militia law, order-
ing the territorial militia to be formed into one battalion
consistnig of three companies of mounted riflemen; and
another regarding marriage, which permitted "All male
persons, of the age of sixteen and upwards, and all fe-
males of the age of fourteen and upwards" to engage in
morriage, provided the sanction of the parents could be
obtained. Unfortunately for the good of Oregon there
were too many parents, who, looking forward to the pas-
sage of the Donation Act, and being desirous of gaining
possession through their children of large bodies of land,
were only too eager to see their children married and as-
suming the responsibilities of parentage, before their own
childhood was fairly passed. r •■.„;-.
As for the laws generally adopted, they were those of
Iowa and New York mixed, and made suitable to the con-
dition of the colony. , ^ - -^ ,r^..
■i » ;
INDIAN DIRTUUHANCES IN THE UPPER COUNTRY. 325'
T
Tlio result of success in the matter of eflfocting an or-
ganization Avas not altogether unalloyed happiness. The
Indians in the upper country were again in a tumult, and
freely expressed their dread of the coming immigration,
tlicii on its way, under the leadership of Dr. Whitman.
They were not ignorant of what had taken place in the
Wallaniet Valley ; neither, upon reflection, did they look
upon the visit of the Indian agent in the previous autumn
iis a promise of good, but regarded it rather as a token of
the encroachments of the whites. So far as the Nez Per-
ces were concerned, they had kept the laws given them
at that time, partly through the natural prudence of their
dispositions, and partly through the wise counsels of their
head chief, Ellis, who, having been educated at the Red
River settlement of the Hudson's Bay Company, was pre-
pared to use a reasonable discretion iu controling the bad
passions of his people.
l>nt the Cayuses and Walla- Wallas, the allies and rela-
tives of the Nez Perces, were in a different frame of mind,
having more immediate cause for alarm, from the fact that
their own teacher, Dr. Whitman, was bringing upon them
tlie curse they dreaded. In a state of mind totally un-
settled and rebellious, they waited for the promised visit
of Dr. White in the spring.
Such were the reports which had reached the Wallamet
from the upper country of the turbulence of the Indians,
that it was regarded as a dangerous movement for the
agent to go among them. However, he resolved to un-
dertake it, and accompanied by only one gentleman from
the mission, Mr. Hines, and their servants, set out for the
infected district. Before reaching Vancouver they were
met by a letter from Dr. McLaughlin, advising them not
to proceed, and informing them that, from intelligence
lately received, there was really much to apprehend. He
■ V ;
- i.
n
i
1
w
32G THE AGENT STAHTS FOU THE INFECTED DISTUIOT.
also informed thcui that the IndiauH had expressed their
deterraiiuitioii not to make war upon the Hudson's Iky
Company, but only upon the Americans ; and gave it as
his opinion that the best way to end the disturlmuce was
to remain quietly at home.
Not agreeing with Dr. McLaughlin in rcsi^oct to the
best manner of soothing the Indians, Dr. White and Mr.
Hines proceeded to the fort, where they wished to obtain
supplies of goods, provisions, powder, and balls for the
expedition. This visit to the fort, under the circumstances,
was one of those frequent acts, half cringing and half au-
dacious, which the sensitive historian rather flinches from
recording, as reflecting upon the honor and i.niity of
Americans. In explanation we shall quote V.!. Hines'
own words :
" Called on Dr. ISIcLaiighlin for goods, provisions, powder, lialls, &c., for our
accommodation on our voyage up the Columl)la; anil altlioujj;li he was greatly
suprised that, under the circumstances, we should think of going among those
excited Indians, yet he ordered his clerks to let us have whatever we wantcil.
However, we found it rather squally at the fort, not so much on account of our
going among the Indians of the interior, as in consequence of a certain memo-
rial having been sent to the United States Congi'css, implicatiiu; the conduct of
Dr. McLauglilin and the lluihoti's Bay Company, and hearing the signatures of
seventy Americans. I inquired of the Doctor if he had refused to grant sup-
plies to those Americans who had signed that document ; he replied that he
had not, but that the authors of the memorial need expect no more favors from
him. Not being one of the authors, hut merely a signer of the petition, I did not
come under the ban of the company, consequently I obtained my outfit for the
expedition, though at first there were strong indications that I would be refused."
To the honor of Dr. McLaughlin be it said, that how-
ever great the provocation, he never avenged his injuries
upon the American settlers, by refusing to aid them in
their times of want or peril. -^^^
Arrived at the Dalles, the Indian agent tarried only long
enough to inquire into the working of the system of laws
which he had persuaded them to accept on his previous
DOIUO, THK WICKIJU IIALI' llUHHl).
:m
visit. Tlio report wliicli the Itulians luul to f,nvo wiis l)otli
nieliiiiclii)ly and aiiuising. According to Mr. IT.incs' Jo ir-
iiiil (if tlu- expedition:
'•Tlu^ cliii'is li;i(l fi)iiiiil niiiclMlilTiciilty in rnforciiii^ tli(! laws; in )miii.>*liinf:f
(Icliiiiim'nts, some of tlic Imli;iiis n-<istiii^ cvfii to tlu! point of tiui kiiit^. 'I'iio
{•liiil's wluj were iippcjintcil tlirouM;li the intliuMico of Dr. Wliili-, witi! ilcsirous
tJKit tlu'^f r(';:iil:itioiis shoiilil continia', cvidfiitlv Ix'Cimsi^ llicy |)liici'il llic people
uiuiiT tlicir iihsoliitc control, and jjavc tlifui the power to re;;nlate all their
iiittrcDiirse with tlio whites, and with the other Indian tribes. IJiit thi- other
iiilliuntial men, who were not in oOice, desired to know of Dr. White, of what
liiiKlif tlii.-< whippinjf system was }ioini,' to hv. to them. They said they were
ivilliiiu' it should continue, pr()vi(K'<l they were to receiver blankets, shins, and
[lints, as a reward for beinj^ whippe(L 'Jliey had been whipped a j^ood many
tiiiiis, and ihey had ;i;ot n()thin<^ Ibr it, and it had done them no jjocjd. if this
Mh' ol' things was to continue it was all good Ibr nothing, and they would throw
it all away. In reply they were tohl by the Doctor that we could not he de-
t.iined to settle any of their didiculties now, that wo were going farther intf) the
in'i rior, and were in a very great hurry, and that when wi; retin-ncd he would
iiiilcav.T to make all straight. But lie wished them to understand that they
mill nut expect pay for being flogged, when they deserved it. They laughed
luartily at the idea, and dispersed, giving us an opportunity to make aiTange-
niiiits fur the continuance of our journey."
On leaving the Dalles, Dr. White proceeded as rapidly
as possible, now with horses instead of boats, to the sta-
tion at Waiilatpu, where Mrs. Whitman and a Mr. Giger
of the mission were awaiting them with anxious expecta-
tion. Dr. White found quite as much uneasiness as he
liiul anticipated, and learned incidentally why he had been
counseled at Fort Vancouver not to attempt going among
the Indians. It appeared on investigation that a mischiev-
ous half-breed, named Dorio, son of the same Madame
Dorio who figures as a heroine in Irving's Astoria, being
well informed in Indian sentiments, and influential as an
interpreter among them, had wickedly inflamed the pas-
sions of the Indians by representing to them that it was
useless making farms and building houses, as in a short
time the whites would overrun their land, and destroy
everything, besides killing them. ._, _
328
YIHTT OF YELLOW-SEUPENT TO VANCOUVER,
T^
'Ids evil counsel so well ngreed with what tliov
had seen and heard, and had reason to apprehend, tlmt
much excitement was the result. The Avarriors amoiiif
the Cay uses were eager to go to war at once, and exter-
minate all the white settlements on the Wallamot and
elsewhere. But the old nuvii counseled patience and
caution, advising a consultation with the Hudsu'^s Bay
Company, who liad always been their friends. They re-
membered the answer they had received, when on the
first breaking out of their fear of the Americans they had
gone to Fort Walla-Walla, to ask McKinley's o])inior, of
the expediency of driving the missionaries away from their
lands. "You are braves," said McKinley, "and thc'c are
manv of you. It would be c.sv to kill two men and two
women, and a, few little children. Go quickly and do it, if
you wish ; but remember if you do so, that 1 will have
you punished."' For that time the subject Avas dropped.
But now that their fears were thoroughly aroused, the
Cayuses resolved to send a messenger to Dr. McLaughlin
at Vancouver to inquire what had better be done in view
of their difficulties, and to take obsv^rvations in the lower
countr3^ for the Indians wei'e wel] aware that the -whites
had not been at peaije a,inong themselves, and that Foit
Vancouver had been strengthened in its defences, and had
had a go\ rnment vessel lying before it the previous win-
ter. Seeing that there seemed more unity between tlie
Hudson's Bay Company and the Americans, a new fear
entered into their minds lest they might combine against
tliem.
Full of su jh feelings, a WaUa-Walla chief, called Yellow-
Serpent, made a journey to Vancouver and opened his
lieart to Dr. McLaughlin. In answer to his inquiries the
Doctor assured him that there was nothing to apprehend
from any class of whites ; that he could not believe the
A VISIT TO LAPWAI.
329
Americans had any warlike designs tow^ard tlicm, and that
if they should make war on them, they would not be joined
by the Hudson's Bay men. Comforted by the assurances
of tlio great white chief, Yellow-Serpent returned, and
reported to his people, and for a time tln^y were quiet,
ami worked at their little plantations, as ttraght them ])j
Dr. Wliitman.
As wo have seen it was but a brief lull in the rising tem-
pest. The wicked Dorio still continued to poison their
niiiids, and to stir up all the native suspiciousness and jeal-
ousy of the Indian character. Thus it happened that on
Dr. While's arrival they were full of mutiny, as difficult of
approach as in the preceding autumn. However, Dr.
White, witli Mr. Hines, Mi's. Whitman and Mr. Giger,
made many friendly advances, and a meeting was finally
appointed to take place after the agent had first made a
vLsit to the Nez Perces. v-.- -
The Nez Percei were found to have remembered their
promises, and to L.ive continued to profit by the instruc-
tions of their teachers. They received the agent in a cor-
dial manner, entertaining hhn and his friends with a re-
hearsal of a late battle with the Blackfeet in which they
had been victorious. Arrangements were then made for
jlr. S|)alding, Ellis, and several hundreds of men, women
and children to visit Waiilatpu in company with the Doc-
tor, as the Cayuses would agree to nothing without first
consulting with the chief of the Nez Perces.
Nor were they all inclined to receive the agent hospita-
bly, even in company with Ellis. The reception was
conducted in the usual style of Indian welcome, by first
exhibiting their warlike accomplishments in a sham battle,
so well fought and life-like in its representation that even
Olis was almost persuaded some real fighting would follow.
The (wcitemeiit was finally allayed by Mr. Spalding pro-
p»
330
THE CONFERENCE AT WAIILATPU.
posing to afljonin. to the house of worship for eveniiiff
prayers, after which the people scattered to their lodges
to await the meeting of the next day.
On the following morning the chiefs came together at
Dr. Whitman's, and Dr. White addressed them. He assured
them that if they feared war on the part of the whites
they were quite mistaken ; that the Great Father of the
whites had not sent him among them for that purpose, but
to come to some understanding about their future inter-
course. He promised them that if they would lay aside
their former practices, as they had been instructed by the
missionaries to do, leave oif feuds among themselves, and
cultivate the land, they might become a great and happy
people. He counseled unity between the chiefs, and con-
sideration and kindness towards the people, and also coun-
seled the people to obey the chiefs, and love and pray for
them. ■ !v •>
The subject of the laws was then brought forward, and
the young men were exhorted to accept and keep them,
that when they became chiefs their people might obey
them. The laws were then read both in English and Nez
Perce, when the Wall a- Walla chief, Yellow-Serpent, arose
and said :
" 1 have a message to you. Where are these laws
from ? Are they from God, or from the earth ? I would
you might say they were from God. But I think they are
from the earth, because, what I know of white men, they
do not honor these laws." A short speech, and to the
point.
When it was explained to him that in all civilized coun-
tries men were bound to honor the laws, he replied that
he was " glad to learn that it was so, because many of
his people had been angry with him when he had whipped
them for crime, and had told him that God would send
THE LAWS ACCEPTED — A GRAND TREAT.
331
him to bell for it, and he was glad to know that it was
iiot displeasing to God."
Other chiefs then spoke in turn, one favoring the adop-
tion of the laws, another rejecting, and giving as a reason
that the chief in favor was a Catholic ; to which Doctor
White replied that religious belief had nothing to do with
the making or keeping of laws. And after this an old
chief, who had seen Lewis and Clarke when they were in
the country, spoke of the treaty made with them ; adding
that " ever since that time people had been coming along
and promising lO do them good; but that they had all
|)asse<l by and left no blessing behind them. That the
Hudson's Bay Company had persuaded theui to keep good
friends with them, and to let the Americans alone. But
if the Americans designed to do good to them, why did
they not bring goods with them to leave with their peo-
ple. They were fools to listen to the promises of the
Americans; they only would talk, while the Hudson's
Bay Company gave presents." In reply to which begging
speech the Doctor reminded them that his business with
them was that neither of missionary or trader. ,
After a day spent in listening to and answering speech-
es the meeting adjourned. In the evening the Nez Perce
chief, Ellis, and his associate Sawyer, held a talk with Dr.
White in which they demanded a salary, as chiefs ; and
thought that they wore already entitled to enough to
malce them wealthy. So avaricious is the Indian in all his
feelings and pursuits.
On the day follov/ing the speeches were resumed, the
laws linally accepted, and the Catholic chief Tan-i-tan was
elected to the office of head chief, but resigned it the
next day in favor of his brother Five-Crows, because, as
he said, his religion differed from that of most of his na-
tion, and Five-Crows would be more agreeable to them.
i i
332
THE MISSIONARIES WARNED.
His decision proved liis wisdom as well as his generosity;
for the people declared themselves delighted with tlie
change, tliough they had nothing against Tan-i-tan.
At the conclusion of each day the Indians had been
feasted wnth fat beef and pork, obtained from the mission;
and on the last day a grand feast was spread, to which Dr.
White's party were invited, and at which, contrary to In-
dian custom, the women w^ere permitted to appear and
partake ; Dr. White having made this a special request,
and furnished them with new dresses for the occasion.
After this happy conclusion of business in the Indian
country. Dr. White appointed his leave-taking for the next
morning. Mrs. Whitman, who had been an anxious and in-
terested spectator of events, notwithstanding the amicable
termination of the agent's efibrts, thought it prudent to
return with his part}?- to the lower country until the time
approached for her husband's return. Better for both had
they never returned to Waiilatpu. Many were the war-
nings which those missionaries had, and disregarded.
Many times had the Indians said to them " we do not
wish to go to war, but if the Americans come to take away
our lands, and reduce us to a state of vassalage, we will
fight so long as we have a drop of blood." Yet no one
more than Dr. Whitman, did everything in his power to
encourage the settlement of the country. He was an en-
thusiast in the cause of the American occupation of Ore-
gon ; and like many another, in all the great questions of
time, his enthusiasm won for him only the crown of a
martyr. ■ ^or.iiB^
Dr. White remained some time at the Dalles, on his re-
turn, endeavoring to bring the Indians into a cheerful sub-
jection to the laws that had been given them. The suc-
cess of the Doctor's labors may be pretty correctly esti-
mated from events which will hereafter be related.
A'.':
^rmmfimmft^
THE IMMIGRATION OF 1843.
333
CHAPTER XXYII.
The immigration into Oregon of the year 1843, was
the lirst since Newell and Mrek, who had brought wagons
through to the Columbia River ; and in all numbered
nearly nine hundred men, women, and children. These
immigrants were mostly from Missouri and other border
States. They had been assisted on their long and peril-
ous journey by Dr. Whitman, whose knowledge of the
route, and the requirements of the undertaking, made him
;in invalualjlc counselor, as he was an untiring friend of
the innnigrants.
At the Dalles of the Columbia the wagons were aban-
doned ; it being too late in the season, and the wants of
the immigrants too pressing, to admit of an effort being
made to cut out a wagon road through the heavy timber
of the Cascade mountains. Already a trail had been made
over them and around the base of Mount Hood, by which
cattle could be driven from the Dalles to the settlements
on the Wallamet ; and by this route the cattle belonging to
the train, amounting to thirteen hundred, were passed
over into the valley.
But for the people, especially the women and children,
active and efficient help was demanded. There was some-
thing truly touching and pitiable in the appearance of these
hundreds of worn-out, ragged, sun-burnt, dusty, emaciated,
yet indomitable pioneers, who, after a journey of nearly
two thousand miles, and of several months duration, over
pp*
334 PITIABLE CONDITION OF THE WOMEN AND CHlLDRra.
fertile plains, barren deserts, and rugged mountains, stood
at last beside the grand and beautiful river of theiv hopes,
exhausted by the toils of their pilgrimage, dejected and
yet rejoicing.
Much they would have liked to rest, even here ; but
their poverty admitted of no delay. The friends to
whom they were going, and from whom they must exact
and receive a temporary hospitality, were still separated
from them a weary and dangerous way. They delayed as
little as possible, yet the fall rains came upon them, and
snow fell in the mountains, so as seriously to impede the
labor of driving the cattle, and hunger and sickness began
to affright them.
In this unhappy situation they might have remained a
long time, had there been no better dependence than the
American settlers already in the valley, with the Metho-
dist Mission at their head ; for from them it does not ap-
pear that aid came, nor that any provision had been made
by them to assist the expected immigrants. As usual in
these crises, it was the Hudson's Bay Company who came
to the rescue, and, by the offer of boats, made it possible
for those Jlimilies to reach the Wallamet. Not only were
the Hudson's Bay Company's boats all required, but canoes
and rafts were called into requisition to transport passen-
gers and goods. No one, never having made the voyage
of the Columbia from above the Dalles to Vancouver,
could have an adequate idea of the perils of the passage,
as it was performed in those days, by small boats and the
flat-bottomed "Mackinaw" boats of the Hudson's Bay
Company. The Canadian " voyageurs," who handled a
boat as a good rider governs a horse, were not always
able to make the passage without accident : how, then,
could the clumsy landsmen, who were more used to the
feel of a plow handle than an oar, be expected to do so?
PERILS OF THE COLUMniA,
335
Numerous have been the victims suddenly clutched from
life by the grasp of the whirlpools, or dashed to death
among the fearful rapids of the beautiful, but wild and
pitiless, Columbia.
The immigration of 1843 did not escape without loss
and bereavement. Three brothers from IMissouri, by the
name of Applegate, with their families, were descending
the river together, when, by the striking of a boat on a
rock in the rapids, a number of passengers, mostly child-
ren of these gentlemen, were precipitated into the fright-
ful current. The brothers each had a son in this boat,
one of whom was lost, another injured for life, and the
third escaped as by a miracle. This last boy was only
ton years of age, yet such was the presence of mind and
courage displayed in saving his own and a companion's
life, that the miracle of his escape might be said to be his
own. Being a good swimmer, he kept himself valiantly
above the surface, while being tossed about for nearly two
miles. Succeeding at last in grasping a feather bed which
was floating near him, he might have passed the remain-
ing rapids without serious danger, had he not been seized,
as it were, by the feet, and drawn down, down, into a
seething, turning, roaring abyss of water, where he was
hold, whirling about, and dancing up and down, striking
now and then upon the rocks, until death seemed not
only imminent but certain. After enduring this violent
whirling and dashing for what seemed a hopelessly long
period of timic, he was suddenly vomited forth by the
whirlpool once more upon the surface of the rapids, and,
notwithstanding the bruises he had received, was able, by
great exertion, to throw himself near, and seize upon a
ledge of rocks. To this he clung with desperation, until,
by dint of much effort, he finally drew himself out of the
^ater, and stretched himself on the narrow shelf, where,
22
■m
I
336
WONDERFUL ESCAPE OF YOUNG ArPLEGATE.
for a moment, ho swooned away. But on opening his
eyes, lie beheld, struggling in the foaming flood, a youii<'
man who had been a passenger in the wreeked boat with
himself, and who, though older, was not so good a swim-
mer. Calling to him with all his might, to make his voice
heard above the roar of the rapids, he at last gained his
attention, and encouraged him to try to reach the lodge
of rocks, where he would assist him to climb up ; and the
almost impossible feat was really accomplishe*! by their
united eflbrts. This done, young Applegate sank again
into momentary unconsciousness, while poor exhausted
Nature recruited her forces.
But, although they were saved from immediate destruc-
tion, death still stared them in the face. That side of tlie
river on which they had found lodgment, was bounded
by precipitous mountains, coming directly down to the
water. They could neither ascend nor skirt along them,
for foot-hold there v/as none. On the other side was level
ground, but to reach it they must pass through the rapids
— an alternative that looked like an assurance of destruc-
tion.
In this extremity, it was the boy who resolved to risk
his life to save it. Seeing that a broken ledge of rock
extended nearly across the river from a point within his
reach, but only coming to the surface here and there, and
of course very slippery, he nevertheless determined to at-
tempt to cross on foot, amidst the roaring rapids. Starting
alone to make the experiment, he actuall}' made the cross-
ing in safety, amid ihe thundering roar and dizzying rush
of waters — not only made it once, but returned to assure
his companion of its practicability. The young man, how-
ever, had not the courage to undertake it, until he had
repeat' dly been urged to do so, and at last only by being
pursuaded to go before, while his younger comrade fol-
\TE.
opening bis
J(l, a yuuiig
1 boat with
)od a swim-
kc his voice
gained his
li tho ledge
p ; and the
ed by their
! sank again
' exliausted
ate destruc-
; side of the
as bounded
own to the
dong them,
Ic was level
1 the rapids
of destruc-
ved to risk
ige of rock
within his
I there, and
iiined to at-
Starting
e the cross-
zzying rush
d to assure
r man, how-
til he had
ly by being
omrade fol-
m
!■•*
4
■^W*^
1%,
TRIALS OF THK NEW C0L0NI8TS.
337
lowod after, not to lose si^ht of liim, (for it was impos-
sihle to turn around,) and diroct(Ml him where to place
his steps. In this manner that which appears incredible
WHS accomplished, and the two arrived in safety on the
()]»i)osite side, where they, were ultimately discovered by
their distressed relatives, who had believed them to be
lost Such was the battle which young Applegate had
with the rocks, that the flesh was torn from the palms of
his hands, and his whole body bruised and lacerated.
So it was with sorrow, after all, that the immigrants
arrived in the valley. Nor were their trials over when
tliey had arrived. The worst feature about this long and
cxhiHisting journey was, that it could not be accomplished,
so as to allow time for recruiting the strength of the trav-
elers, and providing them with shelter before the rainy
season set in. Either the new arrivals must camp out in
the Aveather until a log house was thrown up, or they
must, if they were invited, crowd into the small cabins
of the settlers until there was scarce standing room, and
thus live for months in an atmosphere which would have
bred pestilence in any other less healthful climate.
Not only was the question of domiciles a trying one,
but that of food still more so. Some, who had families
of boys to help in the rough labor of building, soon be-
came settled in houses of their own, more or less com-
fortable ; nor was anything very commodious required
for the frontiers-men from Missouri ; but in the matter of
something to eat, the more boys there were in the family,
the more hopeless the situation. They had scarcely man-
aged to bring with them provisions for their summer's
journey — it was not possible to bring more. In the
colony was food, but they had no money — few of them
had much, at least ; they had not goods to exchange ;
labor was not in demand : in short, the first winter in
.^1
f-: [ I
w
338
THE OKNKROUS SAVAGE,
Oregon was, to nearly all the new colonists, a time of
trial, if not of actual Huflbring. Many families now occu-
pying positions of eminence on the Pacific coast, knew
what it was, in those early days, to feel the pangs of
hunger, and to want for a sufficient covering for their
nakedness.
Two anecdotes of this kind come to the writer's mem-
ory, as related by the parties themselves : the Indians,
who are everywhere a begging race, were in the habit of
visiting the houses of the settlers and demanding food.
On one occasion, one of them came to the house of a now
prominent citizen of Oregon, as usual petitioning for some-
thing to eat. The lady of the house, and mother of sev-
eral young children, replied that she had nothing to give.
Not liking to believe her, the Indian persisted in his de-
mand, when the lady pointed to her little children and
said, "Go away; I have nothing — not even for those."
The savage turned on his heel and strode quickly away,
as the lady thought, offended. In a short time he reap-
peared with a sack of dried venison, which he laid at her
feet. "Take that," he said, "and give the tenas tillkum
(little children) something to eat." From that day, as
long as he lived, that humane savage was a " friend of the
family.
The other anecdote concerns a gentleman who was
chief justice of Oregon under the provisional govern-
ment, afterwards governor of California, and at present a
banker in San Francisco. He lived, at the time spoken
of, on the Tualatin Plains, and was a neighbor of Joe
Meek. Not having a house to go into at first, he was per-
mitted to settle his family in the district school-house,
with the understanding that on certain days of the month
he was to allow religious services to be held in the build-
ing. In this he assented. Meeting day came, and the
THE IlAIMC-FOOTKn I WVYER.
339
family put on tlioir best a];)f)iirol to make tliomsclvos tidy
ill tho eyes of th(;ir noighbora Only one (lilliculty wiis
hard to get over : Mr. had oidy one shoe, tlie otlier
foot was bare. But ho considered tho matter for some
time, and tlien resolved that he mij^dit take a sheltered
position behind the teacher's desk, where his deficiency
would be hidden, and when the house lillt'd up, as it
would do very rapidly, he could not be expected to stir
for want of space. However, that happened to the ambi-
tions young lawyer which often does happen to the " best
laid schemes of mice and men" — his went "all aglee."
In the midst of the services, the speaker needed a cup of
water, and requested Mr, to furnish it. Tlusre was
no refusing so reasonable a request. Out before all the
congregation, walked the abashed and blushing i)ioneer,
with his ill-matched feet exposed to view. This mortify-
ing exposure was not without an agreeable result ; for
next day he received a present of a pair of moccasins,
and was enabled thereafter to appear with feet that bore
a brotherly resemblance to each other.
About this time, the same gentleman, who was, as has
been said, a neighbor of Meck's, was going to Wallamet
Falls with a wagon, and Meek was going along. "Take
something to eat," said he to ^feek, " for I have nothing;"
and Meek promised that he would.
Accordingly when it came time to camp for the night.
Meek Avas requested to produce his lunch basket. Going
to the wagon. Meek unfolded an immense pumpkin, and
brought it to the fire.
"What!" exclaimed Mr. , "is that all we have for
Slipper ?"
" Roast pumpkin is not so bad," said Meek, laughing
back at him ; " I've had worse fare in the mountains.
It's buffalo tongue compared to ants or moccasin soles."
V.
'
*■ }
-
i
mm
340
SHOPPING UNDEK DIFFICULTIES.
And Si. with much merriment they proceeded to cut up
their puriipk'" and roast it, linding it as Meek had said—
'^not so bad" when there was no better.
Those anecdotes illustrate what a volume could only do
scribe — the perils and privations endured by the colonists
in Oregon, If we add that there were only two flouring
mills in the Walhimet Valley, and these two not conven-
ient for most of the settlers, both belonging to the mis-
si(m, and that to get a few bushels of wheat ground in-
volved the taking of a journey of from four to six days,
for many, and that, too, over half-broken roads, destitute
of bridges, it will be seen how difficult it was to obtain
the commonest comforts of life. As for such luxuries as
groceries and clothing, they had to wait for better times.
Lucky was the man who, "by hook or by crook," got
hold of an order on the Hudson's Bay Company, the
Methodist Mission, or the Milling Company at the Falls.
Were he thus fortunate, he had much ado to dende how
to make it go farthest, and obtain the most Not far
would it go, at the best, for fifty per cent, profit on all
sales was what was demanded and obtained. Perhaps the
holder of a ten dollar draft made out his list of ne(;essa-
ries, and presented himself at the store, expecting to get
them. He wanted some unbleached cotton, to be dyed to
make dresses for the children ; he would buy a pair of
calf-skin shoes if he could afford them ; and — yes — he
would indulge in the luxury of a little — a very little—
su?:ar, just for that once !
Arrived at the store after a long, jolting journey, in
the farm wagon which had crossed the continent the year
before, he makes his inquiries : "Cotton goods?" "No;
just out." "Shoes?" "Got one pair, rather small—
wouldn't fit you." " What have you got in the way of
goods ?" " Got a lot of .«ilk handkerchiefs and twelve
^iwfif':^;
EDUCATION AND LITERARY SOCIETIES.
341
dozen straw lials." " Any pins ?" "No; a few knittinf^
mrdlos/' "Any yarn?" "Yes, there's a pretty good
lot of yarn , but don't yon want some sugar? the last
ship tliat was in left a ^-lantity of sugar." So the holder
of the draft exchanges it for some yarn and a few nails,
and takes the balance in sugar . fairly conii)elled to be
luxuiious in one article, for the reason that others were
not to be had till some other ship came in.
No mails reached the colony, and no letters left it, ex-
cept such as were carried by private hand, or were sent
once a year in the Hudson's Bay Company's express to
Canada, and thence to the States. Newspapers arrived
in the same manner, or by vessel from the Sandwich
Inlands. Notwithstanding all these drawbacks, education
was encouraged even from the very beginning ; a library
was started, and literary societies formed, and this all the
iiioro. perhaps, that the colony was so isolated and depend-
ent on itself for intellectual pleasures. Such was the state
of the colony when the Indian Agent returned from the
upper country, when the Provisional Government was
foniK'd, and when the emigration arrived at the close of
1H43.
The spring of 1844 saw the colony in a state of some ex-
eI;oment on account of an attempt to introduce the manu-
facture of ardent spirits. This dangerous article had al-
ways been carefully excluded from the country, first by
die Hudson's Bay Company, and secondly by the Meth-
odist Mission ; and since the time when Ewing Young
had bi'en induced to relinquish its manufacture, no seri-
ous oifort had been made to introduce it.
It does not appear from the Oregon archives, that any
law against its manufacture existed at that time : it had
pn.bably been overlooked in the proceedings of the leg-
islative committee of the previous summer ; neither waa
342
A (iUEAT CALAMITV TIIUEATENED.
there yd any executive liead to the Provisional Govern-
ment, the election not having taken jjlace. In this di-
lemma the pe(jple found themselves in the month of Ful>
ruary, when one James Conner had been discovered to be
erecting a distillery at the Falls of the Wallamot.
Now when Dr. White had so speedily returned from
the States, whither he had as speedily gone, after a few
months residence in Oregon, and a quarrel with the mis-
sion to which he was surgeon — with a commission from
the United States wliich he Avished to coust'''ie as confer-
ring on him the authority of governor of <" olony, his
pretentions were regarded as insuiferable, and he was
given to understand that he would do well to confine him-
self to his duties as Indian agent. There was a great deal
that was absurd about the whole matter, and the United
States had as little right to appoint an Indian agent as a
governor — neither being consistent with the terms of the
treaty of joint occupation. But it was not that question
which the settlers regarded ; t.hey were willing enough to
acknowledge the authority of the United States to do
anything ; and were constantly petitioning the govern-
ment to do those things which threatened to involve the
country in war; in which case they would doubtless have
been immediately exterminated ; for it only required a
hint to the Indians that the " King George men " and the
"Bostons" were at war, to bring them down upon the
settlers in one fell swoop.
What the colonists, and especially the mission, did not
like abcnit the matter, was Dr. White hiuvAvlf They
would have })een glad enough to have hnd a governor ap-
pointed ; bu'. there were other wkhv in and out of the
mission, more pleasing to them tKaw the Doctor for gov-
ernor ; and perhaps the movst pUMkx»^g man of all to each
one, was himself But a^* they v>>uKl not all be govern
A DILEMMA — MEEK DEST1UJY8 TlIK DISTILLEHY.
343
ors, it \v;is decided at the meeting iii tiie previous July
thai ii Iriiiity of governors would answer their purpose,
1111(1 divide the honors.
It happened, however, that an occasion for the exer-
cise of executive power liad occurred before the election
of ilie executive committee, and now what was to be
tlidiey It was a case too, which required absolute power,
for tluM-e was no law on the subject of distilleries. After
Niiiu; deliberation it was decided to allow the Indian agent
temporary power, and several letters were addressed to
liiiii, informing him of the calamity which threatened the
c'Oiiiinunity at the Falls. " Now, wo believe that if there
is anything which calls your attention in your oHif^ial ca-
pacity, or anything in which you would be most cordially
supported by the good sense and prompt action of the
better part of community, it is the present case. We do
not wish to dictate, but we hope for the best, begging
pardon for intrusions." So read the closing paragraph
of one of the letters.
Perhaps this humble petition touched the Doctor's he<a*t ;
perhaps he saw in the circumstance a possible means of
acijiiiring influence; at all events he hastened to the Falls,
a distance of fifty miles, and entered at once upon the dis-
charge of the executive duties thus thrust upon hira in.
the hour of danger. Calling upon Meek, who had entered
upon his duties as sheriflF the previous summer, he gave
him his orders. Writ in hand, Meek proceeded to the
distillery, frightened the poor sinner into quiet submission
with a display of nis mountain manners ; madie a bugle of
the worm, and blew it, to announce to the Doctor his cora-
piote success ; after which he tumVded the distillery appa-
ratus into the river, and retired. Connor was put under
throe hundred dollar bonds, and so the case ended
But there were other occasions on which the Doctor's
'"-'" -"''•^- ' '■''''•rW^i
344 ANECDOTE OF DR. WHITE AND MADAM COOPER.
autliority was put in roqnisition. It happened that a ves-
sel i'roin Australia had been in the river, and left one Mad
am Cooper, who was said to have brought w4th her a bar-
rel of whisky. Her cabin stood on the east bank of the
Wallamct, opposite the present city ot Portland. Nut
thinking it necessary to send the sheriiF to deal with a
woman, the Doctor went in person, accompanied by a
couple of men. Entering the cabin the Doctor remarked
blandly, " you have a barrel of whisky, I believe."
Not knowing but her visitor's intention was to purchase,
and not having previously resided in a strictly temperance
community, Madam Cooper replica . frankly that she had,
and pointed to the barrel in question.
The Doctor then stepped forward, and placing his foot
on it, said- "In the name of the United States, I levy
execution on it!"
At this unexpected declaration, the English woman
stared wildly one moment, then recovering herself quickly,
seized the poker from the chimney corner, and raising it
over the Doctor's head, exclaimed — ''In the name of
Great Britain, Ireland, and Scotland, I levy execution on
you!"
But when the stick descended, the Doctor was not there.
He had backed out at the cabin door ; nor did he after-
wards attempt to interfere with a subject of the crown of
Great Britain
On the following day, hov/ever, the story having got
afloat at the Falls, Meek and a young man highly esteem-
ed at the mission, by the name of Le Breton, set out to
pay their respects to Madam Cooper. Upon entering the
cabin, the two callers cast their eyes about until they
rested on the whiskv barrel.
''Have you come to levy on my whisky?" inquired the
now suspicious Madam.
PER.
A LEVI' ON WIIIBKY.
345
that a vos-
ft one Mad-
her a bar-
tuik of the
land. Nut
loiil with a
mied by a
:' remarked
ve."
3 purchase,
lemperance
at she hud,
ng his foot
:es, I levy
, - . . i
ish woman
ill quickly,
1. raising it
; name of
:ecutiou on
s not tfiere.
id he after-
[3 crown 01
laving got
ily esteem-
, set out to
titering the
until they
"Yes," said Meek, "I have come to levy on it; Init as
I am not quite so high in authority as Doctor White, I
(Idii't intend to levy on the whole of it at once. I think
ahout a (piart ox it will do me."
Comprehending by the twinkle in Meek's eye that she
had now a customer more to her mind, Madam Coo})er
made haste to set before her visitors a bottle and tin cup,
upon which invitation they proceded to levy frequently
upon the contents of the bottle ; and we fear that the
icni^th of time spent there, and the amount of whisky
(hank must have strongly reminded Meek of past rendez-
vous times in the mountains ; nor can we doubt that he
entei'tained Le Breton and Madam Cooper with many rem-
iniscences of those times. However that may be, this
\vas not the last visit of Meek to Madam Cooper's, nor his
last levy on her whisky.
The sheriff, despite his natural antagonism to what is
usually denominated the better portion cf the community,"
or putting it more correctly, despite their antagonism to
h'm, on account of his mountain ways and Indian vfife,
was becoming a man of note amongst them. They might
ilenominate him amongst themselves as " old Joe Meek "
at thirty-four years of age, because he cared nothing what-
ever for their pious prejudices, and broke througii their
s)kMnn prohibitions as if they had been ropes of sand ;
ct when courage and firmness were required to get them
mt of a difficulty, they appealed deferentially enough to
Mr. Meek."
Shortly after his election as sheriff he had been called
pen to serve a writ upon a desperate character, for an
tttempt to kill. Many persons, hoAvever, fearing the re-
sult of trying to enforce the law upon desperadoes, in the
llieo defenceless condition of the <x>lony, advised him to
wait for the imiuigration to come in beforo attempting the
»>■' !'
34G
FIRST OFFICIAL ACT OF THE SHRRIFF.
arrest. But Meek preferred to do his duty then, and wont
■with the writ to arrest him. The man resisted, iiiakinrr
an attack on the sherifll' witli a carpenter's axe ; but Aleok
coolly presented a pistol, assuring the culprit of the use-
lessness of such demonstrations, and soon brought him to
terms of compliance. Such coolness, united with a fine
physi(pio, and a mountain-man's reputation for recklo<^
courage, made it very desira])le that Meek should con-
tinue to hold the office of sherill during that stage of the
colony's development.
EXCITEMENT AMONG THE SETTLERS.
347
CHAPTER XXVIII.
J!'
1844. As has before been mentioned, the Indians of
the Wallamct valley were by no means so formidaljle as
those of the npper country : vet considering tlioir nuni-
hers and the condition of tho settlers, they were quite for-
midable enough to occasion considerable alarm when any
one of them, or any nurube c '>r them betrayed the savage
]i;i-sions by which they were tein])orarily overcome. Con-
jiJerable excitement had prevailed among the more scat-
tered settlers, ever since the reports of the disaffection
among the up-country tribes had reached them ; and Dr.
Will' id been importuned to throw up a strong fortifi-
catioh 111 the most central part of the colony, and to pio-
eure arms for their defence, at the expense of the United
States.
This excitement had somewhat subsided when an event
occurred which for a time renewed it: a house was plun-
dered and some horses stolen from the neighborhood of
the Falls. An Indian from the Dalles, named Cockstock^
was at the bottom of the mischief, and had been commit-
ting or instigating others to commit depredations upon the
settlers, for a year previous, because he had been, as he
fancied, badly treated in a matter between himself and a
negro in the colony, in which the latter had ■ aken an un-
fair advantage of him in a Vjargain.
To crown his injuries Dr. White had caused a relative
of his to be flogged by the Dalles chief, for entering the
III
348
INDIAN REVENGE RAID OF THE KLAMATH8.
house of the Methodist missionary at that place, and tyinc
liiiii, with the purpose of flogging him. (It was a poor
hiw, he thought, that would not work both ways.)
In revenge for this insult Cockstock came to the Doc-
tor's house in the Wallaniet, threatening to shoot him al
sight, but not linding him at home, contented himself
for that time, by smashing all the windows in the dwell-
ing and ofllce of the Doctor, and nearly liightening to
death a young man on the premises.
When on the Doctor's return in the evening, the extent
of the outrage became known, a party set out in pursuit
of Cockstock and his band, but Allied to overtake thcni,
and the settlers remained in ignorance concerning the
identity of the marauders. About a month later, how-
ever, a party of Klamath and Molalla Indians from the
south of Oregon, numbering fifteen, came riding into the
settlement, armed and painted in true Indian war-style,
They made their way to the lodge of a Calapooya chief
in the neighborhood — the Calapooyas being the Indians
native to the valley. Dr. White fearing these mischiev-
ous visitors might infect the mind of the Calapooya chief,
stmt a message to him, to bring his friends to call upon
him in the morning, as he had something good to say to
them.
This they did, when Dr. White explained the laws of the
Nez Perces 1 » them, and loki them how much it would he
to their advn tage to adopt such laws. He gave the Cal-
apooya chief a tine fat ox to feast his friends with, well
knowing that an Indian's humor depends much on the
state of his stonnich, whether shrunken or distended. Af
ter the feast there was some more talk about the laws, in
the midst of which the Indian Cockstock made his appear
ance, armed, and sullen in his demeanor. But as Dr.
White did not know him for the perpetrator of the out-
MASSACHK OF UNDIAXS.
U9
ni^'c on his preinisos, he took no notice of him more tlian
of ihe otlu'i's. The Mohillas and Khuuuths finally a;j;rc(Hl to
receive the laws; departing in high good hnmor, singing
1111(1 shouting. So little may one know of the navage
liiMit Irdin the savage professions! Some of these In-
(liiius were boiling over with secret wrath at the weakness
of ilicir brethren in consenting to laws of the Agent's dic-
liitidii; and while they were crossing a stream, fell upon
and iTiassacrcd them without mercy, Cockstock taking an
active part in the murder.
The whites were naturally much excited by the villianous
and horrible affray, and were for taking and hanging the
iiiunlorers. The Agent, however, was more cautious, and
learning that there had been feuds among these Indians
long unsettled, decided not to interfere.
Ill February, 1844, fresh outrages on settlers having
been committed so that some were leaving their claims
and coming to stop at the Falls through fear. Dr. White
was petitioned to take the case in hand. He accordingly
raised a party of ten men, who had nearly all suffered
some loss or outrage at Cockstor-liV hands, and set out in
search of him, but did not succeed in finding him. His
next step was to offer a reward of a hundred dollars for
his arrest, meaning to send hira to the upper country to
be tried and punished by the Cayuse'3 and Nez Perces, the
Doctor prudently desiring to have them bear the odium,
and suffer the punishment, should any follow, of executing
justice on the Indian desperado. Not so had the fates or-
dained.
About a week after the reward was offered, Cockstock
came riding into the settlement at the Falls, at mid-day,
accompanied by five other Indians, all well armed, and
fright fully painted. Going from house to house on their
horses, they exhibited their pistols, and by look and ges-
2- S-
350 AFI'UAY AT THE FALLS — DEATH OF COCKSTOCK.
tiii'o socmod to defy the settlers, who, however, kept quiol
througli ])rii(lenti{il motives. Not siiecoediiig in provok-
ing' th(! wliilcs to commoncc the fray, Cockstock finally re-
tired to an Indian villa^a* on the other side of the river
where he labored to get np an insnrrection, and procure
the burning of the settlement houses.
Meantime the people at the Falls were thoroughly
alai'm(;d, and bent u\)()n the capture of this desperate sav-
age. When, after an absence of a few hours, they saw
him reerossing the river with his party, a crowd of per-
sons ran down to the landing, some with oflers of large
reward to any person who would attempt to take him,
while others, more courageous, were determined upon
earning it. No definite plan of capture or concert of ac-
tion was decided on, but all was confusion and doubt. In
this frame of mind a collision was sure to take place ; both
the whites and Indians firing at the moment of landing.
Mr. LeBreton, the young man mentioned in the previous
chapter, after firing ineffectually, rushed unarmed upon
Cockstock, whose pistol was also empty, but who still had
his knife. In the struggle both fell to the ground, when
a mulatio man, who had wrongs of his own to avenge, ran
up and struck Cockstock a blow on the head with the butt
of his gun which dispatched him at once.
Thus the colony was rid of a scourge, yet not without
lo.ss which counterbalanced the gain. Young LeBreton
besides having his arm shattered by a ball, was wounded
by a poisoned arrow, which occasioned his death; and
Mr. Rogers, another esteemed citizen, died »from the same
cause ; while a third was seriously injured by a slight
wound from a poisoned arrow. As for the five friends of
C"»ckstock, they escaped to the bluffs overlooking the set-
tlement, and commenced firing down upon the people.
But fire-arms were mustered sufficient to dislodge them,
HKTTLKMKXT OK TlIK IUFFICIUMV.
3.n
and thus tho alTair (Midori; oxcopt that tho Ap^ont had
smiio trouble to sotlle it with tlic Dalles Indijins. who carno
,l(,\vii in-a body to demand payment for the h).s8 of their
Kidtlicr. After mueh talk and ex})lanation, a ])resent to
the widow of the dead Indian was made to smooth over
the (lillieulty.
Meek, who at i\w time of tho eollision was raftint]^ tim-
ber for Dr. AfeLaughlin's mill at the Falls, as might have
been expected was appealed to in the melee by eitizens
wiu) knew less about Indian fighting.
A ])rominent citizen and merchant, who probably sel-
dom spoke of him as Mr. Meek, came running to him in
irrcat alTright:— "Mr. Meek! Mr. Meek! Mr. Meek!— I
want to send my wife down to Vancouver. Can you as-
sist me? Do you think the Indians will take tho town?"
"It '])ears like half-a-dozen Injuns might do it," retorted
Me 'k, going on with his Avoik.
''What do you think we had better do, Mr. Meek? —
What do you advise ?"
"I think yoii'd better run."
In all dilTicuIties between the Indians and settlers. Meek
usually refrained from taking sides — especially from taking
sides against the Indians. For Indian slayer as he had
once been when a ranger of the mountains, he had too
much compassion for the poor wretches in the Wallamet
' ,i'! y, as well as too much knowledge of the savage na-
ture, 'o like to make unnecessary war upon them. Had
'lo I'cen sent to take Cockstock, very probably he would
have done it with little uproar ; for he had sufficient influ-
ence among the Calapooyas to have enlisted them in the
undertaking. But this was the Agent's business and he
let him manage it ; for Meek and the Doctor were not in
love with one another ; one was solemnly audacious, the
other mischievously so. Of the latter sort of audacity,
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352
SOLEMN AUDACITY AMBITIOUS DESIGNS.
here is an example. Meek wanted a liorse to ride out to
the Plains where his family were, and not knowing how
else to obtain it, helped himself to one belonging to Dr.
White ; which presumption greatly incensed the Doctor,
and caused him to threaten vrrious punishments, hanging
among the rest. But the Indians overhearing him replied
" Wake 71 ilea caintux — You dare not. — You no put rope
round Meek's neck. lie tyee (chief) — no hang him."
Upon which the Doctor thought better of it, and having
vented his solemn audacity, received smiling audacity with
apparent good humor when he came to restore the bor-
rowed horse. -- 0 /itrifp*..!;
While Indian affairs occupied so much of the attention
of the colony, other topics of interest were not overlooked,
and colonial politics were as jealously guarded as ever by
the American party. The unique form of government hit
upon by the genius of the American people, which con-
sisted of a legislative committe who might frame laws for
the people to vote upon at the ensuing election, and an
executive committee, equally under the control of the peo-
ple, promised to prove a success However, that passion
by which " the angels fell," did not sleep in Oregon more
than in other portions of the globe, and there were those
in the legislative committee for 1844, and in the executive
committee also, who were revolving in their minds the ques-
tion of an independent government ; that is, a govemmeut
owning no allegiance either to the United States or Great
Britain, but which should lay the foundations of empire ou
the Pacific coast.
The first message of the executive committee recom-
mended the vesting of the executive power in a single
individual, the appointment of several judges, and d gen-
eral amendment of the organization with a view to increas-
ing its strength. It was also decided this year to increase
the legislative committee, so that it should number no less
^^r
%'t
NEGFiOES AND LIQUOR INTEUDICTBD.
353
than tliii'tcon, nor more than sixty members. An assessor
was appointed as a preliminary measure to imposing taxes:
an act passed to exclude slavery from Oregon, and also an
act to prevent the manufacture or sale of intoxicating
drinks. On the two latter acts the people were generally
very well agreed, seeing that temperance was necessary to
the preservation of the colony; and the majority favoring
the exclusion of negroes from Oregon. That there should
have been so general a sentiment against the introduction
of blacks seems rather remarkable, when it is remembered
that a large proportion of the settlers were from the bor-
der slave states. Perhaps, having experienced the disad-
vantages of being " poor whites " in a slave-holding com-
munity, and being without the means of procuring slaves,
they resolved to prevent any future influx of slave-holders,
who should reduce them to the condition of "poor whites"
in the country of their adoption. So fearful were they
that the negro element might be introduced into their so-
cial and political affairs that it was made an offence even
for a free negro to be found in the territory, for which of-
fence he was ordered to be sold to the lowest bidder, who
was obligated to send the unfortunate black out of the
territory, as soon as he had paid himself for the expense
of doing so, out of his services. ■ • • - - ^ —
But on the matter of taxes the people were not so well
ap^reed, the general determination being, however, to pay
the expenses of the government only by subscription, as
agreed to by a vote of the people the previous year.
Tlic American settlers were averse to being taxed for
the support of a government which might become a bur-
den to them in this way; and the most politic of the poli-
ticians in the American party feared that by taxing the
people they should alarm the Canadians, whom they had
again invited to join the organization. As there were dis-
4
t- -!,l
354
DEFEAT OF THE INDEl'ENDEX'l PAUTY.
I'S
son tors among the voters, there were also two parties in
the legislature on this subject.
However, an issue was started this year in the legisla-
ture, which governed the election of the next year's legis-
lature. Its purpose was pretty clearly shadowed forth in
the following paragraph from the message of the executive
committee :
"And we sincerely hope that Oregon, by the special aid of Divine Providence,
may set an unprecedented example to the world, of industry, morality, and vir-
tue. And, although we may now be unknown as a state or power, yet we have
the advantages by united efforts of our increasing population, in a diligent
attention to agriculture, arts, and literature, of attaining, at no distant day, to
as conspicuous an elevation as any state or power on the continent of America."
This feeler put forth by the executive committee, one of
whom was the candidate for Governor, of the Independ-
ent party, while it struck a responsive chord in the hearts
of a portion of the legislative committee, had the effect to
alarm the patriotism of the loyal American ; an alarm
which spread, and which expressed itself in the choice of
the legislature of 1845, as well as in the choice of a gov-
ernor, defeating entirely the hopes and designs of ihe
would-be founders of an Independent Government.
■ •.■•^■;'iJ' ■' ;?}•,.■
I!
?
THE OIIEGON CITY LAND-CLAIM.
355
CHAPTER XXIX.
1842-4. In all the movements which had been made by
either party in Oregon the Hudson's Bay Company had not
been lost sight of. Each one had something to gain or lose
by the approval or disapproval of that company. A few
individuals, however, belonging to the mission, under the
pretence of taking care of the rights of American citizens,
made continual war on Dr. McLaughlin as the represent-
ative of the Company, and scrupled not to set his rights
at defiance.
The Rev. Father Waller, who had in 1840 obtained the
Doctor's permission to build a mission school and store-
house on the land claimed by him since 1830, found so
many points of merit in the situation of the land that he
resolved to set up a counter claim, and hold it by posses-
sion. The first intimation that the Doctor had of such an
intention was in 1842, when a rumor of that kind was
afloat. On inquiring of the superintendent of the mission
concerning the truth of the matter, he was told that Mr.
Waller denied setting up any claim to the land. Yet whe;i
the Doctor, a few days later wished to give a lot to a set-
tler, Mr. Waller would not allow it to be given away, say-
ing he was " very much obliged to Dr. McLaughlin for
disposing of his property." Then commenced a tedious
and irritating struggle with the Reverend claim-jumper.
On appealing to the superintendent a second time the
Doctor was informed that Mr. Lee had " understood Mr.
0 I
-;fl
356
ATTEMPTS AT A SETTLKMENT.
Waller to say that he had set up no claim in opposition to
the Doctor's, but that if the Doctor's claim i'ailed, and the
mission did not put in a claim, he (Waller) considered that
^ he had a better right than any other man, and should
• secure the title if he could." It was evident from this
admission that Mr. Waller expected that the mission would
put in a claim, failing to do which he should do so for
himself.
Again, Mr. Lee informed the Doctor that " a citizen of
the United States, by becoming a missionary, did not re-
nounce any civil or political rights," therefore he could
not control his associates in such matters. Upon which
information. Dr. McLaughlin called upon Mr, Waller in
order to seek an adjustment of the difficulty. In the in-
terview which followed, Mr. Waller again by implication
denied his intention to wrong the Doctor, and agreed
that if he were allowed to retain possession of that portion
of the Doctor's land which he had cleared and improved,
he would give in exchange for it an equal amount of land
out of his claim which adjoined the Doctor's. To this Dr.
McLaughlin consented, and sent a man to survey and meas-
ure the lots which Mr. Waller had improved, or given
away to his friends, in order to mark out an equal portion
for himself on that portion of Waller's claim adjoining
his. But no sooner had he done this than Mr. Waller "-
clared that he would not consent to the arrangement, say-
ing, " keep you yours, I will keep mine ;" a mode of
settlement most agreeable to the Doctor, only that while
Mr. Waller kept his own, he kept the Doctor's also.
A few months later there came to the Falls a lawyer, who
was on his way to the Sandwich Islands, a Mr. llicord.
This gentleman, in a conversation with Mr. McLaughlin,
gave it as his opinion that the Doctor could not hold his
claim at the Falls, because he was a British subject. Here
■■-Y-
opposition to
iled, and the
iisidered that
, and should
snt from this
lission would
Id do so for
' a citizen of
. did not re-
•re he could
Upon which
[r. Waller in
HJ, In the in-
f implication
and agreed
that portion
d improved,
cunt of laud
To this Dr.
ey and meas-
sd, or given
qua] portion
tn adjoining
Waller "^-
gement, say-
a mode of
r that while
I also.
lawyer, who
Mr. llicord.
McLaughlin,
not hold his
3ject. Here
MR. RICORD 8 PROPOSITION DECLINED.
357
then, was another and an unexpected bar to his rights,
and the Doctor was fain to offer Mr. Ricord a fee if ho
could show him any way by which he could hold his claim.
This proposition after some deliberation, and consultation
with the mission gentlemen, was entertained on the follow-
ing terms : That the Doctor was to relinquish his claim
to an island in the river whereon the mission had erected
a gristmill, that Mr. Waller was to retain two lots on the
town site of Oregon City, already occupied by him, and
other lots besides, to the amount of five acres, to be chosen
by himself: that Rev. Jason Lee should be in like manner
secured in regard to certain town lots, in behalf of the
Methodist mission, and that for his services in bringing about
this exceedingly just and equitable arrangement, and giv-
in": his advice, Mr. Ricord was to receive the sum of three
hundred pounds sterling. To such a proposition the
Doctor declined to give his assent, and the matter rested
for a time.
However, before Mr. Ricord left the colony, which he
did on one of the Company's vessels, another conversation
was had with him, and also with Mr. Lee, in which the
Doctor submitted another proposition, in which he oil'ered
the mission two lots for a church, two lots for the clergy-
man, two lots for the school-house, and two lots for the
school-master ; said lots to be taken out of a specified por-
tion of the town site. He also offered to pay for the
huilding occupied by Mr. Abernethy, a member of the
mission, and subsequently Governor of the colony, but not
for that portion of Mr. Waller's house wiiich had been
built out of his own squared timbers, lent for that purpose
and never returned or paid for, but for all other improve-
ments which had been made on those lots which he wanted
for business purposes.
He further offered to let the milling company go on as they
■mi
■ :':|t
».Kt
mm
w
hi
358
MR. R1C011D8 CAVEAT.
were doing, until the boundary line was settled, when, if
his claim was admitted, he would pay them for the work
done and the fair value of the mill as decided by arbitra-
tors To this proposition Mr. Lee and Mr. Ricord gave
their approval, expressing their sense of the Doctor's fair-
ness and generosity. As Mr. Lee was about to set out for
Wfishington, he requested the Doctor to leave the mission
in possession until his return, which was agreed to without
8us})icion.
Nearly four months subsequently, Mr. McLaughlin was
presented with a copy of a caveat, made out against him
three days previous to the last mentioned conversa-
tion, the original of which was in the pocket of one of
these gentlemen at the very moment they were expressing
their sense of his generosity, and asking for a little time
before disturbing the mission, and which ran as follows:
" You will please to take notice that my client, Mr. A. F. Waller, has taken
formal measures at Washinj];ton to substantiate his ckiin as a preomptor and ac-
tual settler upon the tract of land, sometimes called the Wallamet Falls settle-
nunt and sometimes Oie^^on City, comprising six hundred and forty acres ; and
being aw.ire that, although a foreigner, you claim to exercise acts of ownership
over said land, this notice is given to apprise you that all sales you may make
of lots or other subdivisions of said farm, after the receipt hereof, will be re-
garded by my client, and by the government, as absolutely fraudulent, and will
be mailc at your peril." Tlien followed the grounds upon which the Doctor's
claim was denied. Firtl, that he was an alien ; Sccomibj, that he was the chief
of a foreign corporate monopoly ; 'J'hirdli/, that he had not resided upon the
land in (juostion for a year previous ; Foiirthh/, that he did not hold the land
for himself but the company; Fifilily. that his claim, if he had any, arose two
years subsequent to Mr. Waller's settlement thereon. This flattering docu-
ment closed with Mr. Ricord's regrets that he had » faded to make an amicable
compromise ' of the matter between the Doctor and his client, and also that
his " client had been driven to the vexatious proceedings of the law, in order
to establish his rights as an American citizen."
Poor old long-suffering Dr. McLaughlin ! it would hardly
have bcoR strange had he hated the name of an "Amer-
ican citizen," so often was it assumed only to give counte-
Hi
KQIJAL RIGHTS OF ALL WHITE MALE CITIZENS.
359
rive counte-
iianco to the greatest abuses. At tlie time, too, that it
was so frequently used and abused, there was only a sup-
posit iuus right to the soil on the side of the Ainerieans,
and a British citizen had quite as many rights really as an
Aiiierican. Besides, Mr. Linn's bill, which was the found-
ation of the colony's assumptions, made no distinction be-
twocn people of any nationality, but provided that every
white male citizen might claim six hundred and forty
iiiTcs of land. Nor had the colonists ever thought of
interfering with the Canadians who were settled upon
farms in the Wallamct. It was only Dr. McLaughlin, and
the goutlemeii of the Hudson's Bay Company who were
so obnoxious to a portion of the Americans.
We think it was about this time that Meek once sur-
prised the Doctor at his devotions, in his office, where he
was probably praying for patience. However that was,
Meek was coming in at the door, but seeing the Doctor
on liis knees, praying and crossing himself- — for he was a
good Catholic — he paused to await the conclusion. On
rising, the Doctor glanced round, and met the mirthful
look of the irreverent Joe.
" Oh, Mr. Jo ! Mr. Jo ! the devil, the devil !" cried the Doc-
tor, greatly surprised at the intrusion, and giving vent to
tiiose rapid ejaculations which always escaped him when an-
noyed. Then immediately repenting of his haste in giv-
ing way to his irritability, he exclaimed in the next breath
'God forgive me, God forgive me!" rubbing his stomach
with a little rapid movement peculiar to him ; his fine
honest Scotch face flushing in contrast to the long white
hair which imparted such distinction to his appearance.
Bnt to finish the story of the Oregon City claim. In
April of 1844, Doctor McLaughlin consented that Doctor
White should speak to Mr. Waller about the matter, and
find whether or not it could be adjusted, because all this
4i
\u
.' <■;
I.: •'■
■/if :o!-
V
3G0
AKHITRATOHH APPOINTED — TIIEIIl AWAHI).
discussion was producing delays ruinous to the business
of Dr. iMcLaugliliu. It was at last determined to leave
the settlement to arl)itrators, and Mr. James Douglas, n
Chief Factor and associate of the Doctor's, Mr. Gilpin, and
Dr. White, were chosen to act for Dr. McLaughlin. The
terms exacted by Mr. Waller were five acres and five hun-
dred dollars to himself, and fourteen lots to the Methodist
mission. To the credit of the two Americans choson, be
it said, that they opposed this exorbitant demand; and
were only persuaded to accede to it by Mr. Douglas.
When the terms were made known to the Doctor, he
exclaimed to his arbitrators all, " Gentlemen, you have
bound me;" but Mr. Gilpin instantly disavowed having a
hand in the arrangement. Then said the Doctor to Mr.
Douglas, " This is your doings!"
" Yes," answered Douglas, Avho felt how much the con-
stant jarring had annoyed his chief, "I thought it best for
your sake to give you one good fever, and have done
with it. I have acceded to the terms and signed the pa-
pers."
Unfortunately for Mr. Douglas' intentions, this was not
the last ' good fever ' into which the Methodist mission
was to throw the Doctor. Not two months after the set-
tlement was made, it was resolved to dissolve the mission;
and in July Mr. Gary, the new superintendent, began to
sell the mission property. Knowing that the lots they
held were particularly desirable to Dr. McLaughlin for his
own use, Mr. Gary called on him in company with Mr.
Hines and one other gentleman of the mission, and offered
to sell them back to him for the sum of six thousand dol-
lars, with the improvements ; reserving, however, two
lots for the church, all the fruit trees, and garden vegeta-
bles then growing, and the use of the warehouse for one
year. -,...,.■.. ^. m^- :)iw^^-n.Hr,sT.
n
' il
INCOUI'ORATION OF OilKOON CUT.
3()i
111 v;iiii the Doctor roraonstrated against the valuation
[lut upon tlio property, and against being made to ])ay
Olio hundred dollars for Mr. Waller's old house built with
timber borrowed from himself; no other terms would the
mission consent to. At last, wearied out with contention,
and needing them for his own business. Dr. McLaughlin
a;fr('('d to give them their price for his lots, as he had just
bi'lbro given them the lots.
Thus, with much cost and annoyance, the question of
ownership in Oregon City was settled ; and after some
solicitation the legislative committee passed an incorpora-
tion act recognizing its right to be called a town. The
island on which the milling company had their grist mill,
which had once formed a part of the Doctor's claim, still
remained in the hands of the company, more than three-
fourths of whom were members of the mission. ..'u i •
But the end was not yet, and we do not choo.so to an-
ticipate. It is enough to say here, that from this time on,
for a period of four years. Dr. McLaughlin was permitted
to pursue his business at Oregon City, or Wallamet Falls
as it has heretofore been called, without any serious inter-
ruption.
The mission party were still opposed to anything which
the Hudson's Bay Company might do, thus compelling
them to form a party by themselves, between whom and
the mission party stood the American party, made up of
the more liberal-minded settlers, the late immigrants, and
the greater number of the mountain-men. In each of the
colonial parties, mission and American, were a few inde-
pendent individuals, who were friendly to, or at enmity
with the Hudson's Bay Company, without consulting party
feeling at all. So strong was the prejudice, however, which
the mission party, and a few individuals of the American
party, indulged towards the Hudson's Bay Company, and
I'Mf
[P.
,1 1 u>*',
m
■ , 3 ■■
m
KE
Bye
! i .
^
1 Li
^
3G2
DKSri:HATK ClIAUACTKHa.
Dr. McLaughlin in particular, that there had always beon
much uneasiness felt at Vancouver concerning the siilety
of the fort.
There had been, from the first of the American settle-
ment, some lawless and desperate cl.iracters in the coiiii
try, coming either from California, the mountains, or from
trading vessels visiting the Colund)ia. These persons be-
longed to no party, nor had any association with the
actual settlers. They were frowned down by all good
citizens alike. Yet this class of persons invariably tool;
*he tone of extravagant Americanism, and refused tn I>"
snui)bed by the Hudson's Bay Company, whatever alights
they were compelled to boar from any other quarter,
Many were the threats which had been made against the
Hudson's Bay Company's property at Vancouver; and
serious, at times, were Dr. McLaughlin's apprehensions
lest he should not be able to protect it. While the colo-
nists, in 1843, were memorializing Congress that they
were in fear and danger from the Indians and the Hud-
son's Bay Company, Dr. McLaughlin was writing to the
Directors of that Company, that he was in fear of the
colonists.
He explained the position of affairs in this wise : there
were large numbers of immigrants coming into the terri-
tory from that portion of the L^nited States most hostile
in feeling to British interests, which hostility was greatly
excited by the perusal of Irving's Astoria, and the pub-
lished letters of Kelly and Spaulding, which represented
the Company's conduct in the falsest colors. These immi-
grants had received such an impression, that they really
feared the Company might set the Indians on them, and
although they now knew better, it was hard overcoming
such prejudices ; besides, there were always some whc
were ready to avail themselves o^ iae prejudices of others
-77'-
1)K. MCLAUGHLIN A8KS FOR rUOTKCTION.
303
to get lip an issue. Threats had been uttered against
Vancouver, and really the people were eneouru^'od to
iiiiike iin attack, by the j)ul)lic prints in the United States
stilting tliat British subjects ought not to be allowed to
roma 1 in Oregon. There was no dependence in the
cominoii men sd)ont the fort to do sentry duty beyond a
ft;w iii^'Iits, nor were there oO^vM^rg enough to be put upon
piiinl witiumt deranging the \ ole business of the de-
jiiirtincnt. To burn the fort would be an easy matter
enough in the dry season, .» erytuing about it being of
combustible material. And so the Doctor asked that a
government vessel be sent to protect Fort Vancouver.
No answer, however, had come to this demand up to the
moiitii of June, 1845. .. ,,
We have seen how, with affairs in this condition at
Viincouver, and with the settled hostility of the Mission
party against Dr. McLaughlin, the peace was yet main-
tained by the constant and unremitting kindness of the
Doctor towards the American settlers. He had for some
time, in his own mind, yielded the question of the future
sovereignty of the country. That the Americans would
hold all of Oregon south of the Columbia was beyond a
peradventure ; how much more, it remained for the heads
of government to decide. The only question was, how
to keep at peace with them until the boundary should be
agreed upon ; and how to maintain his own rights in Ore-
gon, as a citizen, until the charter of the Company should
expire, leaving him free to choose whether he would be
an American or a British subject.
:''h,'
o.
364
THE OATH OF MEMBERSHIP MODIFIED.
-I
yjj-st'
.('
CHAPTER XXX.
1845, The pressure of all these circumstances induced
Dr. McLaughlin to consider whether it were not best to
unite with the American Organization. It was true the
Hudson's Bay Company's charter provided for the govern-
ment of its employes. But it had no authority over Ameri-
cans, and if a desperado calling himself an American citizen
chose to destroy the Company's property, as was continually
threatened, he could do so with impunity, so far as the
Company's power to punish was concerned.
There were a few men in the Wallamet colony with
whom Dr. McLaughlin was somewhat confidential, and to
whom he had spoken of his difficulties. Some of these
were men'bers of the legislature, and determined to use
their influence to remove the chief obstacle to the Doc-
tor's co-operation with the Provisional Government. Ac-
cordingly when the legislature convened in the summer of
1845, the form of the oath of membership was so altered
as to bind the person taking it to support the Organic
Laws only ""o far as they were consistent with their duties
as citizens ot the United States, or subjects of Great Britain^
The Doctor understood this alteration in the form of the
oath as an invitation to him to join the organization in be-
half of the Hudson's Bay Company, and a letter tohirafrom
the gentlemen in the legislature confirmed him in thij belief.
Convinced that it was the best thing to do, for the peace
and security of all concerned, the Doctor, after consulting
f 1
!:
_i
UNWELCOME VISITORS AT FORT VANCOUVER. 365
with his associate, Mr., now Sir James Douglas, became a
member of the colonial organization. Now, certainly, it
would seem, he might , -dt his mind at rest, since all the
people in the country were acting together under one
ffoveriiment, which interfered with the allegiance of no
one. The Canadians had already united with the Ameri-
cans, leaving no outsiders except the Indians ; the organi-
zation itself had been re-modeled and strengthened, the
colony had a regular legislature with the full poM^ers usual
to such bodies, and had a governor, also clothed with the
gubernatorial authority common to that office in the United
States. ■■
But just when Dr. McLaughlin was settling down to a
somewhat composed state of mind, in view of all the
amendments above mentioned, there suddenly appeared
at Fort Vancouver two visitors — gentlemen of position —
government officers on leave, which perhaps meant in this
instance on a secret service. These two gentlemen were
Lieut. Peel and Captain Park, and they brought a letter
to Dr. McLaughlin from Captain Gordon, of Her Majesty's
ship America, then in Puget Sound, and this letter was to
inform him that the America had been sent by Admiral
Seymour "to assure Her Majesty's subjects in the country
of firm protection."
After the struggle seemed almost over, and light began
to dawn on the vexed question of conflicting duties, too
late to be of any real service, but seeming rather to be in
danger of exciting fresh suspicion, the long-waited-for help
had come at last. Dr. McLaughlin had plenty of reason
to wish his visitors had staid away, both then and after-
wards ; so evident was it that their business in Oregon was
that of spies — spies upon himself, as well as upon the
Americans. What their report was, can only be guessed
at. Certain it is, however, that the Doctor was called upon
"366
WONDERFUL TRANSFORMATION.
for explanations with regard to his acts encouraginff
American settlement, and his reasons for joining the Ameri-
can colonial organization, and that he fell under the Com-
pany's censure for the same — the misunderstanding ending
in his resignation.
Lieut. Peel and Captain Park made their visit to Van-
couver agreeable to themselves, as well as serviceable to
their Government. They partook not only of the hospi-
tality of the fort, but visited also among the American set-
tlers, taking " pot-luck," and sleeping in a cabin loft, with
great good humor. If they sometimes displayed a little
native snobishness toward the frontiersmen, it is not to be
wondered at. *
As our friend Meek was sure to be found wherever there
was anything novel or exciting transpiring, so he was sure
to fall in with visitors so distinguished as these, and as
ready to answer their questions as they were to ask them.
The conversation chanced one day to run upon the changes
that had taken place in the country since the earUest set-
tlement by the Americans, and Meek, who felt an honest
pride in them, was expatiating at some length, to the ill-
concealed amusement of the young oflficers, who probably
saw nothing to admire in the rude improvements of the
Oregon pioneers.
"Mr. Meek," said one of them, "if you have been so
long in the country and have witnessed such wonderful
transformations, doubtless you may have observed equally
great ones in nature ; in 'Ae rivers and mountains, for in-
stance ?"
Meek gave a lightning glance at the speaker who had so
mistaken his respondent :
" I reckon I have," said he slowly. Then waving his
hand gracefully toward the miajestic Mt. Hood, towering
thousands of feet above the summit of the Cascade range,
p
PROMISING CONDITION OF THE COLONY.
367
and white with everlasting snows : " When / came to this
country, Mount Hood was a hole in the ground /"
It is hardly necessary to say that the conversation ter-
minated abruptly, amid the universal cachinations of the
bystanders.
Notwithstanding the slighting views of Her British Ma
jcsty's naval officers, the young colony was making rapid
strides. The population had been increased nearly eight
hundred by the immigration of 1844, so that now it num-
bered nearly two thousand. Grain had been raised in
considerable qiiantities, cattle and hogs had multiplied,
and the farmers were in the best of spirits. Even our hero,
wlio hated farm labor, began to entertain faith in the re-
sources of his land claim to make him rich.
Such was the promising condition of the colony in the
summer of 1845. Much of the real prosperity of the set-
tlers was due to the determination of the majority to ex-
clude ardent spirits and all intoxicating drinks from the
country. So well had they succeeded that a gentleman
TOting of the colony at that time, says: "I attended the
last term of the circuit courts in most of the counties, and
I found great respect shown to judicial authority every-
where ; nor did I see a single drunken juryman^ nor wit-
ma. nor spectator. So much industry, good order, and
sobriety I have never seen in any community."
While this was the rule, there were exceptions to it.
During the spring term of the Circuit Court, Judge Ne-
smith being on the bench, a prisoner was arraigned before
him for " assault with intent to kill." The witness for the
prosecution was called, and was proceeding to give evi-
dence, when, at some statement of his, the prisoner vocifer-
ated that he was a "d d liar," and quickly strippi.ag
off his coat demanded a chance to fight it out with the
witness.
24
*.' ' ' \j. •/ *.'■ - - ',' *■*' ■ ' '^ « ' *
14'
1? -
368
ANECDOTE OF JUDGE NESMITH.
Judge Nesmith called for the interference of Meek,
who had been made marshal, but just at that moment he
was not to be found. Coming into the room a moment
later, ]\Ieek saw the Judge down from his bench, holdinf^
the prisoner by the collar.
" You can imagine," says Meek, " the bustle in court.
But the Judge had the best of it. lie fined the rascal.
and made him pay it on the spot ; while I just stood back
to see his honor handle him. That was fun for me."
Such, however, was the good ordei- of the colony at
this time, that it was thought important to memorialize
Congress on the condition and prospects of Oregon— to
remind the Government of the precarious situation of its
expectant children, should either the Indians or the Hud-
son's Bay Company make war on them ; but most import-
ant of all, to beseech the United States to put an end to
the treaty of joint occupation before the expiration of the
ten years now nearly concluded.
The memorial being prepared, together with a copy of
the Organic Laws, and explanations and assurances to the
Government that they were only adopted th:rough neces-
sity, these documents were signed by the members of the
House of Representatives and delivered to Dr. White,
who was about to leave for the States, to se*+l«> up his
accounts at Washington.
Connected with this very proper and dignified proce. d-
ing, was another not strictly dignified, but on the contrary
partaking largely of the ridiculous. It appeared that,
although the Speaker of the House opposed the Organic
Law, as recently adopted, under the impression it was his
duty, he had appended his name to the copy to be trans-
mitted to the Government, and also the resolutions of the
House accompanying them. Dr. White was already on
his way to Vancouver with the dispatches, when the dis-
1
LUDICROUS LEGISLATIVE PROCEEDINGS.
369
covery of this great misdemeanor was made known, to
the assembly. Iinniediately thereupon the Speaker was
("•ranted leave of absence, to follow and overtake Dr.
White, and to erase his name from said documents. Other
resolutions were passed, ordering a messenger to be des-
patched to bring back the documents, and also others
not by any means complimentary to Dr. White.
A day or two later, the following note was received
from Dr. White :
"August 17, 1845.
To the Honorable, Sfc. ;
Gkxti.kmkn: — Being on my way, and having hut a moment to reflect, T
have been at a loss which of your resohitions most to respect or to obey; but
»t length have become satisfied that the first was taken most soberly, and, as it
answers my purpose best, I pledge myself to adhere strictly to that. Sincerely
wisliing you good hick in legislating,
I am, my dear sirs, very respectfully yours, . .
E. WHITE.
Not to be outwitted so handsomely by the aspiring In-
dian Agent, it was subsequently
" Resolved, Tliat the Secretary be
Government, through the American
tlie articles of compact, as adopted
last Saturday of July, A. D. 1845 ;
enior and attested by the Secretary ;
relative to sending said documents
Tenitory ; also a copy of the letter
requested to forward to the United States
Consul at the Sandwich Islandf, a copy of
by the people of Oregon Territory, on the
and that the same be signed by the Gov-
also, all resolutions adopted h^ this House,
by E. White, late Indian Agent of this
of E. White to this House."
Whether or not these documents were ever transmitted
does not appear ; but certain it is, that Dr. White returned
not again with either a gubernatorial commission or Indian
agency. That he probably hoped to do so may be gath-
ered from an extract taken from the St. Louis New Era
of that period, which runs as follows :
iM
li-ii
m
m:,.
"Oregon. — Mr. Elijah White is on his way to Washington, as a delegate
from the self-constituted government of Oregon, and goes to ask for a seat in Con-
M j»^^
370
GROWTH OF IMPROVEMENTS — NEW TOWNS.
gress, to represent that distant territory. He carries with him his credentials from
the jiroriaional gorenimeut of Oregon, and a large petition from the inhabitants
of that region, asking that the jurisdiction of the United States may extend
over that territory. * » » ♦ Xhis delegation to Congress is
to induce that body to take the actual occupancy of Oregon, and on his report
and success will depend the decision of the (juestion, whether or not the peoplo
will establish a separate and independent republic on the shores of the Pacific,"
But solemn audacity, like virtue, is sometimes com-
pelled to be its own reward.
The autumn of 1845 was marked less by striking events
than by the energy which the people exhibited in improv-
ing the colony by laying out roads and town-sites. Al-
ready quite a number of towns were located, in which
the various branches of business were beginning to de-
velop themselves. Oregon City was the most populous
and important, but Salem, Charapoeg, and Portland were
known as towns, and other settlements were growing up
on the Tualatin Plains and to the south of them, in the
fertile valleys of the numerous tributaries to the Wal-
lamet. , ,,.
Portland was settled in this year, and received its name
from the game of " heads you lose, tails I win," by wuich
its joint owners agreed to determine it. One of thqm
being a Maine man, was for giving it the name which it
now bears , the other partner being in favor of Boston,
because he was a Massachusetts man. It was, therefore,
agreed between them that a copper cent should be tossed
to decide the question of the christening, which being
done, heads and Portland won.
The early days of that city were not always safe and
pleasan any more than those of its older rivals ; and the
few ir abitants frequently were much annoyed by the
raids they were subject to from the now thoroughly vag-
abondized Indians. On one occasion, while yet the pop-
ulation was small, they were very much annoyed by the
AN INDIAN CAROUSAL AT TORTLAND.
371
letimes corn-
visit of eight or ten lodges of Indians, who had some-
where obtained liquor enough to get drunk on, and were
enjoying a debauch in that spirit of total abandon which
distinguishes the Indian carousal.
Their performances at length alarmed the people, yet
no one could be found who could put an end to them.
Ill this dilemma the Marshal came riding into town, splen-
didly mounted on a horse that would turn at the least
touch of the rein. The countenances of the anxious
Portlanders brightened. One of the town proprietors
eagerly besought him to " settle those Indians." "Very
well," answered Meek ; " I reckon it won't take me long."
Mounting his horse, after first securing a rawhide rope, he
"cliiirgcd" the Indian lodges, rope in hand, laying it on
with force, the bare shoulders of the Indians oiFering
good hack-grounds for the pictures which he was rapidly
executing, '■" 'i.p;i« u. .; iijj' iiJ ■■(i:i■:'■:^;.i.t). ., ^ (.
Not one made any resistance, for they had a wholesome
fear of tyee Meek. In twenty minutes not an Indian, man
or woman, was left in Portland. Some jumped into the
river and swam to the opposite side, and some fled to the
thick woods and hid themselves. The next morning,
early, the women cautiously returned and carried awa)^
their property, but the men avoided being seen again by
the marshal who punished drunkenness so severely.
Readeys query. Was it Meek or the Marshal who so
strongly disapproved of spreeing ?
Ans. It was the Marshal.
The immigration to Orego.i this year much exceeded
that of any previous year ; and there was the usual
amount of poverty, sickness, and suffering of every sort,
among the fresh arrivals. Indeed the larger the trains
the greater the amount of suffering generally ; since the
grass was more likely to be exhausted, and more hin-
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372
TUE IMMIGUATION OF 1845.
■1 !'
drances of every kind were likely to occur. In any case,
a march of several months through an unsettled country
was sure to leave the traveler iu a most forlorn and ex-
hausted condition every way.
This was the situation of thousands of people who
reached the Dalles in the autunni of 1845. Food waa
very scarce among them, and the dilliculties to encounter
before reaching the Wallamet just as great a^^ those of the
two previous years. As usual the Hudson's Bay Company
came to the assistance of the immigrants, furnishing a pas-
sage down the river in their boats; the sick, and the
women and children being taken first. ■ •- • ■"•-*•■
Among the crowd of people encamped at the Dalles,
was a Mr. Rector, since well known in Oregon and Cali-
fornia. Like many others he was destitute of provisions ;
his supplies having given out. Neither had he any money.
In this extremity he did that which was very disagreeable
to him, as one of the "prejudiced" American citizens
who were instructed beforehand to hate and suspect the
Hudson's Bay Company — he applied to the company's
agent at the Dalles for some potatoes and flour, confessing
his present inability to pay, with much shame and reluc-
tance.
" Do not apologize, sir," said the agent kindly ; " take
what you need. There is no occasion to starve while our
supplies hold out."
Mr, R. found his prejudices in danger of melting away
under such treatment ; and not liking to receive bounty a
second time, he resolved to undertake the crossing of the
Cascade mountains while the more feeble of the immi-
grants were being boated down the Columbia. A few
others who were in good health decided to accompany
him. They succeeded in getting their wagons forty miles
beyond the Dalles ; but there they could move no further.
THE CASCADE MOUNTAIN UOAD-HUNTERS.
373
^
i
III this dilemma, after consultation, Mr. Rector and Mr.
Burluw agreed to go ahead and look out a wagon road.
Taking with them two days' provisions, they started on
ill the direction of Oregon City. But they found road
hunting in the Cascade mountains an experience unlike
aiiv they had ever had. Not only had they to contend
with the usual obstacles of precipices, ravines, mountam
torrents, and weary stretches of ascent and descent; but
they found the forests standing so thickly that it would
have been impossible to have passed between the trees
with their wagons had the ground been clear of fallen
tiiiiher and undergrowth. On the contrary these latter
oi)st;iclos were the greatest of all. So thickly were the
trunks of fallen trees crossed and ^crossed everywhere,
and so dense the growth of bushes in amongst them, that
it was with difficulty they could force their way on foot.
It soon became apparent to the road hunters, that two
(lays' rations would not suffice for what work they had
before them. At the first camp it was agreed to live
upon half rations the next day ; and to divide and subdi-
vide their food each day, only eating half of what was
left from the day before, so that there would always still
remain a morsel in case of dire extremity.
But the toil of getting through the woods and over the
mountains proved excessive ; and that, together with in-
sulTicient food, had in the course of two or three days
reduced the strength of Mr. Barlow so that it was with
great ctFort only that he could keep up with his younger
and more robust companion, stumbling and falling at
every few steps, and frequently hurting himself considera-
bly.
So wolfish and cruel is the nature of men, under trying
circumstances, that instead of feeling pity for his weaker
and less fortunate companion, Mr. Rector became impa-
K^ ' ^
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37-i
THE CASCADE MOUNTAIN UOAU-UUNTEIW.
* 1
III
ticnt, blaming him for causing delays, and often rcquirin"
assistance.
To render their situation still more trying, rain began
to fall heavily, wliich with the cold air of the mountains
soon benumbed their exhausted frames. Fearing that
should they go to sleep so cold and famished, thoy miirht
never be able to rise again, on the fourth or fifth eveniii<'
they resolved to
kindle a fire, ifby
any means they
could do so. Dry
and broken wood
had been plenty
enough, but for tlio
rain, w^hich was
drenching every-
thing. Neither
matches nor fliut
had they, however,
in any case. The
night was setting
in black with dark-
ness ; the wind
swayed the giant
firs over head, and
then they heard
the thunder of a
falling monarch of
the forest unpleas-
antly near. Search-
ing among the bush-
es, and under falhm timber for some dry leaves and sticks,
Mr. Rector took a bundle of them to the most sheltered
spot he could find, and set himself to work to coax a spark
of fire out of two pieces of dry wood which he had split
THE ROAD-HUNTERS.
Ti^^
I'nF
r"-!
THE CASCADE MOUNTAIN IIOAD-HUNTEIIS.
375
foi' tliiit purpose. It was a long and weary wliile before suc-
cess wasatttiiiied, l)y vigorous rubbing together of the dry
wood, but it was attained at hist; and the stiiVeniug limbs
oftiio road-hunters were warmed by a blazing eamp-fire.
The following day, the food being now reduced to a
criiiiib for each, the explorers, weak and dejected, toiled
oil in silence, Mr. Rector always in advance. On chancing
to look back at his companion he observed him to be
biiisliiiig away a tear. "What now, old man?" asked
Mr. Pt. with most unchristian harshness.
" What would you do with me. Rector, should I fall and
hrciik a leg, or become in any way disabled?" inquired
Mr. Barlow, nervously.
"Do with you? I ivould eat youT growled Mr. Rec-
tor, stalking on again. ' - '
As no more was said for some time, Mr. R.'s conscience
rather misgave him that he treated his friend unfeelingly ;
then he stole a look back at him, and beheld the wan face
bathed in tears. ' /- - • ,- •..,'■ -: -
"Come, come, Barlow," said he ore kindly, "don't
take affairs so much to heart. You will not break a leg,
and I should not eat you if you did, for you have'nt any
fle.sh on you to eat."
" Nevertheless, Rector, I want you to promise me that
in case I should fall and disable myself, so that I cannot
get on, you will not leave me here to die alone, but will
kill me with your axe instead."
"Nonsense, Barlow; you are weak and nervous, but
yon are not going to be disabled, nor eaten, nor killed.
Keep up man ; we shall reach Oregon City yet."
So, onward, but ever luore slowly and painfully, toiled
again the pioneers, the wonder being that Mr. Barlow's
fears were not realized, for the clambering and descend-
ing gave him many a tumble, the tumbles becoming more
frequent as his strength declined. 'j-r^Us-
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.170
A ItKAHON roil PATHIOTISM.
Towards cvonln^' of this day as tlioy camo to the pre-
cipitous bank of a inouiitaiii stream wliich was flowing iu
tho direction they wislied to go, suddenly there came to
their ears a sound of more than celestial melody; tiio
tinkling of bells, lowing of cattle, the voice of inoii hal-
looing to the herds. They had struck the (tattle tniil.
■which they had first diverged from in the hope of fnuliiiir
a road passjible to wagons. In the overwhelming revul-
sion of feeling which seized them, neither were able for
some moments to command their voices to call for assist-
ance. That night they camped with the herdsmen, and
suj)pcd in such plenty as an immigrant camp afforded.
Such were the sufferings of two individuals, out of a
great crowd of sufferers ; some afllicted in one Avay and
some in another. That people who endured so much to
reach their El Dorado should be the most locally patriotic
people in the world, is not singular. Mr. Barlow lived to
construct a wagon road over the Cascades for the use of
subsequent immigrations. .
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CULLliCTlON OF TAXEB— A POl.DEttOUtt CL'UUENCT. 377
T"r^'
T
CHAPTER XXXI,
Early in 1846, Meek resigned his oflice of marshal of
the colony, owing to the difliculty of collecting taxes; for
in a thinly inhabited country, where wheat was a legal
teiuler, at sixty cents per bushel, it was rather a burden-
some occupation to collect, in so ponderous a currency ;
and one in which the collector required a granary more
tiiiin a pocket-book. Besides, Meek had out-^rown the
marshulship, and aspired to become a legislator at the next
June election. ■ . •• ' '
He had always discharged his duty with promptitude
and rectitude while sheriff; and to his known courage
might be attributed, in many instances, the ready compli-
ance with law which was remarkable in so new and pecu-
liar an organization as that of the Oregon colony. The
people had desired not to be taxed, at first ; and for a
year or more the goverment wps sustained by a fund
raised by subscription. When at last it was deemed best
to make collections by law, the Canadians objected to taxa-
tion to support an American government, while they were
still subjects of Great Britain ; but ultimately yielded the
point, by the advice of Dr. McLaughlin.
But it was not always the Canadians who objected to
being taxed, as the following anecdote will show. Dr.
McLaughlin was one day sea' a in his office, in conversa-
tion with some of his American friends, when the tall form
of the sheriff darken '^d the doorway.
"I have come to tax you. Doctor," said Meek with his
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H 1
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i
— "11
t~
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■iVP
378
THE BORROWED STEER.
blandest manner, and with a merry twinkle, half sup-
pressed, in his black eyes.
"To tax me, Mr. Jo. I was not aware — I really ^-as
not aware — I believed I had paid my tax, Mr. Jo"
stammered the Doctor, somewhat annoyed at the prospect
of some fresh demand.
" Thar is an old ox out in my neighborhood, Doctor,
and he is said to belong to you. Thar is a tax of twenty-
five cents on him."
"I do not understand you, Mr. Jo. I have no cattle out
in your neighborhood." ^cci: rv
"I couldn't say how that may be, Doctor. All I do
know about it, is just this. I went to old G — 's to collect
the tax on his stock — and he's got a powerful lot of cat-
tle,— and while we war a countin 'em over, he left out
that old ox and said it belonged to you." ,- •-■
"Oh, oh, I see, Mr. Jo: yes, yes, I see! Sc it was
Mr. G — ," cried the Doctor, getting very red in the face.
" I do remember now, since you bring it to my mind, that
/ lent Mr. G — that steer six years ago ! Here are the
twenty-five cents, Mr. Jo."
The sheriff took his money, and w^ent away laughing;
while the Doctor's American friends looked quite as much
annoyed as the Doctor himself, over the meanness of some
of their countrymen.
The year of 1846 was one of the most exciting in the
political history of Oregon. President Polk had at last
given the notice required by the Joint occupation treaty,
that the Oregon boundary question must be settled. For
years the Oregon question had been before Congress, and
the people had taken an extraordinary interest in the man-
ner in which it should be arranged. Ever since the emi-
gration to Oregon hod set in, the frequent memorials from
the far-off colony, and the letters which private individu-
■^
FIFTY-FOUU FORTY OR FIGHT.
379
als were continually writing to friends in the states, con-
cerning tlie beauty, fertility, and healthfulness of the new
territory, kept alive the interest of the people. As the
time drew nigh when a notice might be given, thousands
)\ere anxiously waiting to learn what course the President
would take with regard to it. And when at length the
notice appeared, there was equally great anxiety to have
the government demand every inch of territory that could
be claimed under the most strict construction of the
Florida treaty ; i. c., as far north as latitude 54° 40'.
So much had the subject been discussed, and so greatly
had the feeling against the Hudson's Bay Company's mo-
no['oly been strengthened since the colonization of Ore-
gon by the Americans, that the people did not take into
consideration the Mexican War, nor the designs of the
British government on California, but adopted for their
watchword "fifty-four forty or fight," with the greatest en-
thusiasm; as if the "universal Yankee nation" need not
fear the combined attacks of England, Mexico, and Cali-
fornia, with twenty or thirty thousand Indians thrown in.
That government was more cautious, was perhaps a
gain to our territorial possessions, of California, although
by it we lost some degrees of less desirable soil. How-
ever that may be, both the British lion and the American
eagle kept watch and guard over Oregon in that summer
of suspense, 1846. About the close of that year there
were fifteen English vessels of war in the Pacific, and
vight American war vessels ; — there had been nine. The
total number of guns in the English squadron was 335 j in
the American, 310.
Agreeably to the promise which Dr. McLaughlin had
received from the British Admiral, H. B. M. Sloop of war
ilndeste had arrived in the Columbia River in the month
of October, 1845, and had wintered there. Much as the
^h
^•i
380
LOSS OF THE SHARK.
, ! ■,' '
Doctor had wished for protection from possible outbreaks,
ho yet felt that the presence of a British man-of-war in
the Cohimbia, and another one in Puget Sound, was offen-
sive to the colonists. He set himself to cover up as care-
fully as possible the disagreeable features of the British
lion, by endeavoring to establish social intercourse between
the officers of the Modeste and the ladies and gentlemen
of the colony, and his endeavors were productive of a
partial success. ' •(.•.lii;' ;
During the summer, however, the United States Schooner
Shark appeared in the Columbia, thus restoring the balance
of power, for the relief of national jealousy. After re-
maining for some weeks, the Shark took her departure,
but was wrecked on the bar at the mouth of the river,
according to a prophecy of Meek's, who had a grudge
against her co?^ mander, Lieut. Howison, for spoiling the
sport he was having in company with one of her officers,
while Howison was absent at the Cascades.
It appears that Lieut. Schenck was hospitably inclined,
and that on receiving a visit from the hero of many bear-
fights, who proved to be congenial on the subject of good
liquors, he treated both Meek and himself so freely as to
render discretion a foreign power to either of them. Va-
ried and brilliant were the exploits performed by these
jolly companions during the continuance of the spree;
and still more brilliant were those they talked of perform-
ing, even the taking of the Modeste, which was lying a
little way off, in front of Vancouver. Fortunately for the
good of all concerned, Schenck contented himself with
firing a salute as Meek was going over the side of the ship
on leaving. But for this misdemeanor he was put under
arrest by Howison, on his return from the Cascades, an in-
dignity which Meek resented for the prisoner, by assuring
Lieut. Howison that he would lose his vessel before he
7P""^nPK^'"?F"^
THE LONG SUSPENSE OVER.
381
trot out of the river. And lose her he did. Schenck Avas
released after the vessel struck, escaping with the other
officers and crew by means of small boats. Very few arti-
cles were saved from the wreck, but among those few was
the stand of colors, wh^ch Lieut. Ilowison subsequently
presented to Gov. Abernethy for the colony's encourage-
ment and use. News of the Treaty which defined the
Oregon boundary having been just received, Lieut. Howi-
sou concluded his letter to the Governor by saying : "Nor
can I omit the occasion to express my gratification and
pride that this relict of my late command should be em-
phatically the first United States' flag to wave over the
undisputed and purely American Territory of Oregon."
The long agony was over at last ; the boundary ques-
tion was settled, but not to the satisfaction of the majority
of the people in Oregon. They no more liked the terms-
of the treaty, which granted the free navigation of the
Columbia to England until the expiration of the Hudson's
Bay Company's chai'tor, than they did the fixing of the
boundary line at the 49th parallel. However, there was
no help for it now, and after one long sigh of disappoint-
ment and chagrin, they submitted to necessity ; and, rather
sullenly it is true, accepted the fact that seventeen years
more they must endure the odious monopoly of the Hud-
son's Bay Company. While a few malcontents talked
quite openly of a design to take Fort Vancouver, and thus
end the business of that Company, the wiser portion of
the people interested themselves in the future welfare of
the colony, and perhaps a few weie thoughtful enough to
remember that the gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany in Oregon had some reason to feel disappointed also,
inasmuch as, contrary to their expectations, the United
States had taken possession of both sides of the Columbia
River. - - -^ ; .. .■ -'■ . ■ -h -^- -^' •
f ii-#-
382
THE OREGON SPECTATOR.
CHAPTER XXXII
t*»jU-.
f'j"»^
1846. There had been no winter since the commence-
ment of the American settlement which had not had its
own particidar causes for agitation, its colonial gossip, and
its party divisions. . . r :
The principal subjects on which the agitation, the gos-
sip, and the divisions, were founded, this winter, were
first, the treaty, secondly, the immigration, and lastly, the
usual jealous dislike toward everything that was British.
•Formerly, the news of the colony had been carried from
lip to lip alone : but now a newspaper, established in the
beginning of the year, and conducted by the "Oregon
Printing Association" at Oregon City, had become the
medium through which colonial affairs were supposed to
be made known.
And as the editor of the Oregon Spectator had as yet
no exchange list, the matter it contained could not but be
that which related almost entirely to Oregon affairs. From
the following advertisement, which appeared in the first
number of the Spectator^ we may learn that the facili-
ties for postal communication were, at the best, indif-
ferent, 'i
To PERSONS WISHING TO 8KNi> LETTEB8 East. — The postmastcr-general
has contracted with Mr. H. Burns to carry the mail from Oregon City to
Weston, in Missouri, for one trip only. Letters mailed at any of the offices,
post paid, will be forwarded to any part of the United States. As the mail
sent oast, by Mr. Burns, will reach Weston early in the season, it would be
advisable for those wisliing to correspond with their friends in the east, to avail
themselves of die opportunity. Postage only fifty cents on single sheets.
^:
EARLY LITERATURE OF OREGON.
383
Through the same medium we are informed, by the fol-
lowing notices, that the officers of the Modeste^ and the
Hudson's Bay Company, were still exerting themselves to
allay any irritation of feeling which dissatisfaction with
the late treaty might have occasioned in the minds of the
Americans. '''•
Theatre at Vancouver. — That happy ship, (H. B. M. S. " Modeste,")
was a scene of mirth and amusement upon Tuesday evening, the " Corps Dra-
mati(iiie " again performing before a fashionable and crowded audience. The
rauiiical and favorite comedy of " Love in a Village," followed by the " Mock
Doctor " and the " Mayor of Garratt," were the plays of the evening, and we
have to congratulate the whole performers in having so ably sustained their
c.iaracters, and to thank these " tars " for the rich treat afforded us, in the far
tffs.', upon this occasion, as well as for the variety of attractions during the
past winter.
Theatre at Vancouver. — The first performance of this season took place
on the evening of the 5th instant, on board H. B. M. S. Modeste, by the same
party of sailors who got up the drama so credibly, and afforded so much amuse-
nunt last winter. Tlie plays were " High life below stairs," " The deuce is in
him," and " The Irish Widow;" and to do justice to these companions of the
wave, the characters were, if not more ably, equ..lly as well sustained as for-
nurly, A numerous audience attended, (front seats graced by a beauteous cir-
cle of the, fair sex,) and all appeared much gratified with the fun and mirth of
tlicse entertainments. " -
In addition to the theatrical entertainments, we find
mention of balls, races, and picnics, extending through
the year-and-a-half during which the Modeste remained in
the river. • " ■ ■
The Spectator usually contained articles on the resources
of the country, intended to instruct the friends of the
colony in the East, and also frequent metrical tributes to
the loveliness and excellence of the new territory, con-
tributed by enthusiastic correspondents. The average
amount of poetical ability exhibited in these eimsions was
that of a "happy mediocrity;" and yet the local interest
which attached to them made them rather attractive read-
ing at that time. One stanza selected at random, will
25
-I
m
384
ADVENTURES OF A SALMON.
convey the spirit of these productions, quite as well as a
more lengthy quotation :
w
" Upon Mount Hood I stand,
And witJj rapt {^aze exjjlore
The valloy, and that patriot band
Upon Columbia's shore."
The author of the following, however, was not either a
dull or an unobservant writer ; and we insert his verses as
a comical bit of natural history belonging peculiarly to
Oregon.
ADVENTURES OF A 'COLUMBIA SALMON.
What is yon object which attracts the eye
Of the observing traveler, who ascends
Columbia's waters, when the summer sky
In one soft tint, calm nature's clothing blends :
As glittering in the sunbeams down it floats
'Till some vile vulture on its carcase gloats ?
V
'Tis a poor salmon, which a short time past, ^
With thousands of her finny sisters came, " ' '
By instinct taught, to seek and find at last, . ^ ,-
The place that gave her birth, there to remain
'Till nature's offices had been discharged,
And fry from out the ova had emerged. j
Her Winter spent amongst the sheltered bays
Of the salt sea, where numerous fish of prey,
With appetite keen, the number of her days •.!.';■',
Would soon have put an end to, could but they
Have caught her ; but as they could not, she,
Spring having come, resolved to quit the sea :
And moving with the shoal along the coast, at length
She reached the outlet of her native river.
There tarried for a little to recruit her strength,
So tried of late by cold and stormy weather ;
Sporting in playfiil gambols o'er the banks and sands,
Chasing the tiny fish frequenting there in bauds.
'-v*f-i
'■v> ^r^oi 1)7
ADVENTURES OF A SALMON.
385
"But ah, how little thought this simple fiah,
The toils and perils she had yet to suffer,
The chance she ran of serving as a dish
For hungry white men or for Indian's supper, — • ,
Of enemies in which the stream abounded,
When lo ! she's by a fisher's net surrounded.
Partly conscious of her approaching end,
She darts with meteoric swiftness to and fro.
Striking the frail meslies, within which she's penned,
AVhi(;h bid defiance to her stoutest blow :
To smaller compass by degrees the snare is drawn,
When with a leap she clears it and is gone.
Once more at large with her companions, now
Become more cautious from her late escape,
She keeps in deeper water and thinks how
Foolish she was to get in such a scrape ;
As mounting further up the stream, she vies *
With other fish in catching gnats and flies.
And as she qu her way did thus enjoy
Life's fleeting moments, there arose a panic
Amongst the stragglers, who in haste deploy
Aroimd their elder leaders, quick as magic.
While she unconscious of the untimely rout,
Was by a hungry otter singled out :
Vigorous was the chase, on the marked victim shot
Through the clear water, while in close pursuit
Followe<l her amphibious foe, who scarce had got
Near enough to grasp her, when with turns acute,
And leaps and revolutions, she so tried the otter.
He gave up the hunt with merely having bit her.
Scarce had she recovered from her weakness, when
An ancient eagle, of the bald-head kind.
Winging his dreary way to'rds some lone glen.
Where was her nest witli four plump eaglets lined,
Espied the fish, which he judgi>d quite a treat.
And just the morsel for his little ones to eat:
And sailing in spiral circles o'er the spot, ^' '
Where lay his prey, then hovering for a time,
To take his wary aim, he stooped and caught
His booty, which he carried to a lofty pine ;
Upon whose topmost branches, he first adjusted
His awkward load, ere with his claws he crushed it.
i^fl
n
386
ADVENTURES OF A SALMON.
" 111 is the wind that blows no person good " —
So said the adage, and as luck would have it,
A huge grey eagle out in search of food,
Who just had whet his hunger with a rabbit,
Attacked the other, and tlie pair together,
In deadly combat fell into the river.
Our friend of course made off, when she'd done falling
Some sixty yards, and well indeed she might;
For ne'er, perhaps, a fish got such a mauling
Since Adam's time, or went up such a height
Into the air, and came down helter-skelter,
As did this poor production of a melter. . ^
All these, witli many other dangers, she survived,
Too manifold in this short space to mention ;
So we'll suppose her to have now arrived
Safe at the Falls; without much more detention
Than one'could look for, where so many liked her
Company, and so many Indians spiked her.
And here a mighty barrier stops her way :
Tlie tranquil wate», finding in its course
Itself beset with rising rocks, which lay
As though they said, " retire ye to your source,"
Bursts with indignant fury from its bondage, now
Rushes in foaming torrents to the chasm below.
The persevering fish then at the foot arrives.
Laboring with redoubled vigor mid the surging tide,
And finding, by her strength, she vainly strives
To overcome the flood, though o'er and o'er she tried ;
Her tail takes in her mouth, and bending like a bow
That 's to full compass drawn, aloft herself doth throw ;
And spinning in the air, as would a silver wand
That's bended end to end and upwards cast, ,.
Headlong she falls amid the showering waters, and
Gasping for breath, against the rocks is dashed :
Again, again she vaults, again she tries.
And in one last and feeble efibrt — dies. - ,■
There was, in Oregon City, a literary society called the
Falls Association," some of whose effusions were occa-
sionally sent to the Spectator, and this may have been one
If
lUJ,
THE SOUTHERN ROUTE TO THE WALLAMET.
387
of them. At all events, it is plain that with balls, the-
atres, literary societies, and politics, the colony was not
afflicted with dullness, in the winter of 1846.
But the history of the immigration this year, afforded,
perhaps, more material for talk than any one other sub-
ject. The condition in which the immigrants arrived was
one of great distress. A new road into the valley had
been tliat season explored, at great labor and expense, by
a company ot gentlemen who had in view the aim to
lessen the perils usually encountered in descending the
Columbia, They believed that a better pass might be
discovered through the Cascade range to the south, than
that which had been found around the base of Mount
Hood, and one which should bring the immigrants in at
the upper end of the valley, thus saving them consid-
erable travel and loss of time at a season of the year
when the weather was apt to be unsettled.
With this design, a party had set out to explore the
Cascades to the south, quite early in the spring ; but fail-
ing in their undertaking, had returned. Another com-
pany was then immediately formed, headed by a promi-
nent member of society and the legislature. This com-
pany followed the old Hudson's Bay Company's trail,
crossing all those ranges of mountains perpendicular to
the coast, which form a triple wall between Oregon and
California, until they came out into the valley of the Hum-
boldt, whence they proceeded along a nearly level, but
chiefly barren country to Fort Hall, on the Snake River.
The route was found to be practicable, although there
was a scarcity of grass and water along a portion of it ;
but as the explorers had with great difficulty found out
and marked all the best camping grounds, and encoun-
tered first for themselves all the dangers of a hitherto un-
explored region, most of which they believed they had
V
388
TRAGIC FATE OF IMMIGRANTS.
overcome, they felt no hesitation in recommending the
new road to the emigrants whom they met at Fort Hall.
Being aware of the hardships which the immigrants of
the previous years had undergone on the Snake River
plains, at the crossing of Snake River, the John Day, and
Des Chutes Rivers, and the passage of the Columbia, tlie
travelers gladly accepted the tidings of a safer route to
the Wallamet. A portion of the immigration had already
gone on by the road to the Dalles ; the remainder turned
off by the southern route.
Of those who took the new route, a part were destined
for California. All, however, after passing through the
sage deserts, committed the error of stopping to recruit
their cattle and horses in the fresh green valleys among
the foot-hills of the mountains. It did not occur to
. them that they were wasting precious time in this way ;
but to this indulgence was owing an hicredible amount of
suffering. The California-bound travelers encountered
the season of snow on the Sierras, and such horrors are
recorded of their sufferings as it is seldom the task of ears
to hear or pen to record. Snow-bound, without food,
those who died of starvation were consumed by the liv-
ing ; even children were eaten by their once fond parents,
with an indifference horrible to think on : so does the
mind become degraded by great physical suffering.
The Oregon immigrants had not to cross the lofty Sier-
ra^ ; but they still found mountains before them which, iu
the dry season, would have been formidable enough. In-^
stead, however, of the dry weather continuing, very heavy
rains set in. The streams became swollen, the mountain
sides heavy and slippery with the wet earth. Where the
.road led through canyons, men and women were some-
. times forced to stem a torrent, breast high, and cold
enough to chill the life iu their veins. The cattle gave
M
III
Ik •
AN EXCITING WINTER.
389
out, the 'vagoiis broke clown, provisions became exhausted,
and a few persons perished, wliile all were in the direst
i^traits.
The first who got through into the valley sent relief to
those behind ; but it was weeks before the last of the
worn, weary, and now impoverished travelers escaped
from the horrors of the mountains in which they were so
hopelessly entangled, and where most of their worldly
goods were left to rot.
This unfortunate termination to their hopes of a south-
ern road had a dispiriting influence on the colony ; inas-
much, too, as some of the immigrants who had suffered
most loss, were disposed to lay the blame of it upon those
gentlemen who, with so much effort, had marked out the
new route. It did not soften the acrimony of this class of
persons to be assured that those who had arrived by the
Cai^cadcs were in fully as bad a plight, in many instances,
as themselves. They could not forgive the innocent first-
cause of their own particular ills. Feuds grew out of
thoir bitter indignation, which only a life-time could heal :
aud thus it was, that with all these impoverished new-
comers making demands on their sympathy, each with the
tale of his own peculiar woes to relate, there was plenty
of excitement among the colonists that winter.
The Oregon legislature met as usual, to hold its winter
session, though the people hoped and expected it would
be for the last time under the Provisional Government.
There were only two " mountain-men " in the House, at
this session — Meek and Newell. There were also two
Hudson's Bay Company men, from the counties on the
north side of the river, showing an improvement in the
public sentiment, since the settlement of the boundary
question. In all, there were but fifteen members. Of the
three nominees for Speaker of the House, Meek was one,
but failed of the election.
390
DIVOUCBS GUANTED.
A :'■
There was no very important business before the legis
laturo at this session. Considerable ellbrt was made to get
a bill through, regulating the manulaeture and sale of
wine and distilled spirituous liquors. After considerable
discussion the bill passed the House, and was vetoed by
the Governor, but finally was passed over the veto, by a
two-thirds vote, this being the first successful attempt to
legalize the sale of ardent spirits in Oregon.
Wheat still remaining a legal tender. Meek introduced
a bill for its inspection, having probably learned from his
experience as tax collector, that the people were sometimes
inclined to cheat the government.
The Provisional Government had not provided for a di-
vorce law suited to the wants of the country, and it was
therefore only by special act of the legislature that divorces
could be obtained. Several applications had been made,
in the form of bills praying for a release from the bonds
of matrimony. In every case but one these applications
came from the sterner sex, and with various success. In
this one case, the applicant had failed to enlist the sympa-
thies of the committee to whom her case was referred, and
there was every prospect that the legislature would ad-
journ without acting upon her petition.
in this emergency the lady sought out our hero, who
could never refuse a lady's request, and entreated him to
exert himself in her behalf, to procure her a divorce from
her lord no longer loved. Accordingly the bill was pre-
pared, but not presented to the House until the last
moment before the close of the session, when it was hurried
over, considered engrossed, read a third time, voted on
and passed in a very brief space of time, to the entire satis-
faction of both. Meek and his protege.
-■' ' 1.^
/ /.';
li
THE BEGINNING OF OUEGON COMMEUCE.
391
CHAPTER XXXIII.
1847. There were no events to make remarkable the
spring ahd summer of 1847. Oregon had a promifc^ing
commerce growing up with California, the principal arti-
cles of export being flour and lumber. In the month
of April alone there went out of the Columbia River
1736 barrels of flour, 200,000 feet of lumber, and over
200,000 shingles. Of this amount about half was furnished
by the Hudson's Bay Company's mills, the remainder by
the mills of the colony. Letters were received from Cali-
fornia, giving notice that at least 20,000 barrels of flour
would be needed in that country in the fall. Of this quan-
tity the colonists expected to be able to supply one-half
Money now began to come into the colony, and the fu-
ture looked promising.
To forward the cause of education, the Oregon Printing
Association made a reprint of Wehster^s Elementary Sjiell-
ing-Book, without so much as saying "by your leave" to
the owners of the copy-right, and probably justified the
tlieft upon the strength of the adage that "necessity
knows no law." :. • : ; v-'-'' ' : ■ ■Z'''}-^
Oregon certainly furnished, in her colonial condition, an
example to the world scarcely second in interest to that
of the Pilgrims of the New England colonies, such was
the determined patriotism, the temperance, the industry,
and the wonderful success of her undertakings. We have
attempted, without being too diffuse, to show by what de-
■t\
392
THE FOUNDATIONS OP A NEW STATE.
grees, assisted by those whom they in their patriotism felt
bound to regard as foes, they proceeded step by sUn to-
ward the goal of their desires — the founding of a new
state. Divers were the errors they committed, and roii4
and unpolished was the material out of which the edifice
was to be erected ; nevertheless it was well and strongly
built, the foundation being civil liberty, the superstructure
temperance, good morals, and education. These things
the colonists had struggled for., and so far had maintained,
and they were now looking for their reward. That Gov-
ernment which they so loved, regarding it as children re-
gard a fond parent, and to which they had addressed so
many prayers and entreaties in all these years, was about
to take them under it° foctering care, and to accept from
their hands the filial gift of a vigorous young state.
In the suspense under which they for the present re-
mained, there was nothing to do but to go on in the path
of duty as they had heretofore done, keeping up their
present form of government until it was supplanted by a
better one. So passed the summer until the return of the
"Glorious Fourth," which, being the first national anni-
versarj'- occuring since the news of the treaty had reached
the colony, was celebrated with proper enthusiasm.
It chanced that an American ship, the Brutus, Capi
Adams, from Boston, was lying in the Wallamet, and that
a general invitation had been given to the celebrationists
to visit the ship during the day. A party of fifty or sixty,
including Meek and some of his mountain associates, had
made their calculations to go on board at the same time,
and were in fact already alongside in boats, when Captain
Adams singled out a boat load of people belonging to the
mission clique, and inviting them to come on board, or-
dered all the others off.
This was an insult too great to be borne by mountain-
AN INDIGNITY RESENTED.
393
nien,wlio resented it not only for themselves, but for the peo-
ple's party of Americans to which they naturally belonged.
Their ])lood was up, and without stopping to deliberate,
Meek and Newell hurried off to fetch the twelve-pounder
;,iat had a few hours before served to thunder forth the
ivjoiciiigs of a free people, but with which they now pur-
posed to proclaim their indignation as freeman heinously
insulted. The little twelve-pound cannon was loaclod with
roek, and got into range with the offending ship, and there
is little doubt that Capt. Adams would have suifered loss
at the hands of the incewsed multitude, but for the timely
interference of Dr. McLaughlin. On being informed of
liie warlike intent' ons of Meek and his associates, the good
Doctor came running to the rescue, his white hair flowing
back from his noble face with the hurry of his movements.
'•Oh, oh, Mr. Joe, Mr, Joe, you must not do this! in-
deed, you must not do this foolish thing ! Come now ;
come away. You will injure your country, Mr. Joe. How
Clin you expect thr.i ships will como hei e, if they arc fired
on? Come away, come away!"
And Meek, ever full of wagishness, even in his wrath,
replied :
'•Doctor, it is not that I love the Brutus less, but my
dignity more."
"Oh, Shakespeare, Mr. Joe! But come with me ; come
with me." '" " • • *• •
And so the good Doctor, half in authority, half in kind-
ness, persuaded the resentful colonists to pass by the favor-
itism of the Boston captain. •" : .^ '":'' ' -.
Meek was reelected to the legislature this summer, and
swam out to a vessel lying down at the mouth of the
IVidlaniet, to get liquor to treat his constituents; from
which circumstance it may be inferred that while Oregon
was remarkable for temperance, there were occasions on
■;«
394 FAILURE OF THE TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT BILL.
which conviviality was deemed justifiable by a portion of
her people.
Thus passed the summer. The autumn brought news
of a large emigration en route for the new territory ; but
it brought no news of good import from Congress. On
the contrrry the bill providing for a territorial government
for Oregon had failed, because the Organic Laws of that
territory excluded slavery forevoi from the country. The
history of its failure is a part f j d oei of the record of
the long hard struggle of the sciUi .o oxtend slavery into
the United States' territories.
One crumb of comfort, however, accompanied the in-
telligence of this disappointment ; and that was a letter
from the indefatigable friend of Oregon, Thomas H. Ben-
ton, of which the following is a copy : . .,
Washington City, March, 1847.
My Friends : — (For such I may call many of you from personal acquaint-
ance, and all of you from my thirty years ilevotion to the inter<!sts of yourciira-
try) — I think it riii;ht to make this communication to you at ih<. pv( sent moment,
when the adjotirnment of Congress, without passing the bi;' f >" your govi'rn-
ment and protection, seems to have left you in a state of ■:• 'dor iH ut by your
mother country. But such is not the case. You are n . i •;r'ic;)'dl norwill
you be denied protection unless you agrne to admit slave. j. .' u .lanoftLe
South, and a slaveholder, tell yon this.
The Mouse of Representatives, as early as the middle of January, had passed
the bill to give you a Tei-ritorial Government ; and in that bill had Hant'tiontil
and legalized jour Provisional Organic Act, one of the clauses of which forcvir
prohibited the existence of slavery in Oregon. An amendment from the Sen-
ate's (jonunittee, to which this bill was referred, proposed to abrogate that pro-
hibition ; and in the delays and vcxati'^"- to which that amendment gave rise,
the whole bill was '.aid upon the tabl'' ini* jst for the fossion. Tliis will be a
great disappointment to you and a real calamity, alrei^ v ve years without .... ,
or legal institutions for the protection of life, liberty), inu f/roperty, ami now
doomed to wait a year longer. Tliis is a strange and ■ ;• ' ..ii Jcu.-* condition!
almost incredible to contemplate, and most critical to endure I a colony nf free
men, four thousand miles fr-m *W Metropolitan government, and without law
or government to p (-serv.> them I ^>>r.f '!o not be alarmed, or desperate. You
will not be o\itlawed for not admv':, ,. iavery. Your fundamental act against
that institution, copied from the Or^li nance of 1787 — (the work of tho great
s'MENT BILL
by a portion of
^ brought news
territory ; but
Congress. On
rial government
ic Laws of that
country. The
)f the record of
snd slavery into
ipanied the in-
lat was a letter
'homas H. Ben-
?Y, March, 1847.
personal acquaint-
iterr!sts of yourcMiii-
. tbi.; pn sent momen^
nil io" your govcrii-
■..•'.'iloPiK nt by your
■ ■1 :;:';Oii-d! nor will
■..J. .' u .lanoftLc
January, had passed
bill had sant'tioiiud
ises of which forever
Inient from the Sen-
o abrogate that pro
nendmcnt gave rise,
ion. This will be a
<' years withoiu m..,
>yrapcrty, and now
'-.jJouj condition!
re I a colony of free
at, and without law
or desperate. You
arnental act against
) work of the great
LETTER FROM THOMAS H. BENTON.
395
men of t'lC SoUTU, in the great day of the South, prohibiting slavery in a
TFiiiuToKY fur less northerr tlian yours) — will not be abrogated! nor is that
the intention of the prime mover of the amendment. Upon the record of the
JiKJieinrv committee of the Senate is the author of that amendment ; but not
so ;lie fact ! It is only mid-wife to it. Its author is the same mind that genera-
ted the "FiuE Brand Resolutions," of which I send you a copy, .'nd of
wliich the amendment is the legitimate derivation. Oregon is not the object.
llie most rabitl propagandist of slavery cannot expect to plant it on tlie shores
of the Pacific, in the latitude of Wisconsin and the Lake of the Woods. A
home ai'itation, for election and disunion purposes, is all tnat is intended by
thrustiii" this fire-brand question into your bill ! and, at the next ses.sion, when
it is thriust in aga''.«, we will scourge it out ! and pass your bill as it ought to be.
1 promise you *his in the name of the South as well as of the North ; and
the event will not deceive me. In the meantime, the President will give you
all the protection which exi:iting laws, and detachments cf the army and navy,
can enable him to extend to you ; and, until Congress has time to axit, your
liiends must rely upon you to continue to govern yourselves, as you have here-
tofore done, under the provisions of your own voluntary compact, and with the
jiislice, harmony, and moderation which is due to your own character and to
the honor of the American name.
I send you, by Mr. Shively, a copy of the bill of the late session, both as it
passed the House of Representatives and as proposed to be amended in the
Senate, with the Senate's vote upon laying it on the table, and a copy of Mr.
Calhoun's resolutions — (posterior in date to the amendniont, but, nevertheless,
its fathei ) — also a copy of your own Provis'onal Organic Act, printed by order
of the Sen.He ; all which will put you completely in possession of the proceed-
in;rs of Congress on your Petition for a Territorial Government, and for the
protection and security of your rights.
In conclusion. I have to assure you that the same spirit which ha? made me
the friend of Oregon for thirty years — wliich led me to denounce the joint oc-
cupation treaty the day it was made, an'I to oppose its renewal in 1828, and to
labor for its abrogation uitil it was te* minated ; the same spirit which led me
to reveal the grand destiny of Orego.i in articles written in 1818, and to sup-
port every measure for her bei:?<it rince — this same spirit still animates me, and
will continue to do "O while I live — which, I hope, will be long enough to see
an eni{X)rium of Asiatic commerce at the mouth of your river, and a stream of
Asiatic trade pouring into the Valley of the Mississippi through the channel of
Oregon.
Your (riend and fellow citizen,
Thomas H. Benton.
In addition to this valuable bit of comfort and of his-
tory, another letter, written by James Buchanan, Secretary
of State, and conveying President Polk's regrets that no
396
AFFRAY BETWEEN IMMIGRANTS AND INDIANS.
more had been done for Oregon, was presented to the
colonists by its bearer, who had also brought the commu-
nication of Senator Benton. This gentleman was a Mr.
Sliively, one of the two postmasters appointed for Ore"on
Territory. Here was all that Congress, after much effort
had been able to accomplish — the appropriation of money
for transporting the mails to Oregon via the Isthmus of
Panama ; the establishment of a post-office at Astoria, and
another at Oregon City ; and the appointment of an In-
dian agent, whose inefficiency was patent to all Oregon !
Mr. Buchanan's letter, however, contained a promise of a
regiment of mounted riflemen to protect the emigration;
and war vessels to visit Oregon waters as often as practi-
cable. /■«• :
Justly dissatisfied, but not inconsolable, the colony, now
that hope was extinguished for another season, returned
to its own affairs. The immigration, which had arrived
early this year, amounted to between four and five thou-
sand. An unfortunate affray between the immigrants and
the Indians at the Dalles, had frightened away from that
station the Rev. Father Waller ; and Dr. Whitman of the
Waiilatpu mission had purchased the station for the Pres-
byterian mission, and placed a nephew of his in charge.
Although, true to their original bad character, the Dalles
Indians had frequently committed theft upon the passing
emigration, this was the first difficulty resulting in loss
of life, which had taken place. This quarrel arose out of
some thefts committed by the Indians, and the unwise ad-
vice of Mr. Waller, in telling the immigrants to retaliate
by taking some of the Indian horses. An Indian can see
the justice of taking toll from every traveler passing
through his country ; but he cannot see the justice of be-
ing robbed in return ; and Mr. Waller had been long
enough among them to have known this savage peculiar-
THE FIRST DELEGATE TO CONGRESS.
397
ity, 111 the skirmish which followed this act of retaliation,
one of the immigrants was killed, two seriously wounded,
and several others driven into the mountains for safety.
The chief of the Wascopams, or Dalles Indians, was killed,
and several of the tribe wounded. Fearing the design
of the immigrants was to make war on them, they re-
moved back into the mountains. And thus was inaugu-
rated a series of Indian difficulties which har^assed the
inhabitants of the territory for the next ten years.
Following the arrival of the immigration and the ex-
tinguishment of the colony's hopes of a territorial gov-
ernment, a movement was put on foot among the mem-
bers of the Mission party, to send a delegate to Congress,
charged with instructions to that body concerning the
wants and wishes of the future Territory. The gentle-
man selected by the Governor, for this mission, was J. Q.
Thornton, at that time Chief Justice of the colony, and a
man of undoubted ability. But as he did not go as a del-
egate from thf^ legislature, and only by appointment of
the Governor, with the sanction of the Mission party,
there was considerable dissatisfaction with the action of
Governor Abernethy, and the legislature passed certain
resolutions expressive of its sense of the impropriety of
"secret factions" in the colony. The event has since
proven that no harm was done, but probably considerable
good, by the extraordinary delegate, who chanced to be
in Washington at a critical time for the interests of Ore-
gon.
But the manner in which the delegate was equipped
for the journey is unprecedented in the annals of the
whole country. Had he been a regularly chosen delegate
from the legislature, — and had the legislature a right to
send a delegate to Congress, which it had not, — there was
not money enough in the colonial treasury to have paid
hi
I m\
I t'-'
i
^
I
Ha,)
398
STRANDED AT SAN JUAN — PROMPT RESCUE.
his passage out. Nor had the Governor and his friends
money enough for this purpose. As might be conjectured
in this case, extraordinary measures had to be adopted to
raise the passage money. Subscriptions were taken in
any and every thing which could be converted into cur-
rency. One contributer gave fifteen barrels of flour ; an-
other a little money ; another furnished an outfit of cloth-
ing ; and the largest amount of coin raised was one hun-
dred and fifty dollars.
Passage was secured on the bark Whitton^ Captain
Ghelston, who agreed to carry to New York, but failed
to do so. At San Francisco the delegate made sale of
his flour and other commodities, and Captain Ghelston
obtained so favorable an opinion of the profits of a coast-
ing trade, that when he had arrived at San Juan on the
Mexican coast, he threw "ap his contract to carry his pas-
senger CO New York, leaving him to proceed as best he
could. Fortunately, the United States sloop of war
Portsmouth, Captain Montgomery, was lying at this port.
She was a part of the squadron which had been guarding
the American interests in the Pacific during the previous
year ; and when Captain Montgomery learned the situa-
tion of the Oregon representative, he took the liberty of
construing his instructions to "rescue American ministers
in foreign ports" from difficulties into which they might
have fallen through various causes, to mean that he was
to convey this stranded delegate to his destination, which
he immediately proceeded to do. Therefore it may be
reckoned that the whole transaction of appointing and
conveying the first Oregon delegate to Washington was
decidedly unique, as well as somewhat expensive.
Finding that it must continue yet a little longer to look
after its own government and welfa.e, the colony had
settled back into its wonted pursuits. The legislature
FALLING OF THE THUNDERBOLT.
399
had convened for its winter session, and had hardly elected
its ofiicers and read the usual message of the Governor,
before there came another, which fell upon their ears like
a thunderbolt. Gov. Abernethy had sent in the following
letter, written at Vancouver the day before :
Fort Vancouvek, Dec. 7, 1847,
George Ahernethy, Esq. ;
Sill ;— Having received intelligence, last night, by special express from
Walla- AValla, of the destruction of the missionary settlement at Waiilatpu, by
the Cayuse Indians of that place, we hasten to communicate the particulars of
that dreadful event, one of the most atrocious which darkens the annals of In-
dian crime.
Our lamented friend. Dr. Wliitman, his amiable and accomplished lady, with
nine other persons, have fallen victims to the fury of these remorseless savages,
who api)ear to have been instigated to this appalling crime by a horrible sus-
picion which had taken possession of their superstitious minds, in consequence
of the number of deaths froui dysentery and measles, that Dr. Whitman was
silently working the destruction of their tribe by administering poisonous drugs,
under the semblance of salutary medicines.
With a goodness of heart and benevolence truly his own, Dr. Whitman had
been laboring incessantly since the appearance of the measles and dysentery
among his Indian converts, to relieve their sufferings ; and such has been the
reward of his generous labors.
A copy of Mr. McBean's letter, herewith transmitted, will give you all the
particulars known to us of this indescribably painful event.
Mr. Ogden, with a strong party, will leave this place as soon as possible for
Walla- Walla, to endeavor to prevent further evil ; and we beg to suggest to
you the propriety of taking instant measures for the protection of the Rev. Mr.
Spalding, who, for the sake of his family, ought to abandon the Clear-water
mission without delay, and retire to a place of safety, as he cannot remain at
that isolated station without imminent risk, in the present excited and irritable
state of the Indian population. . ^
I have the honor to be, sir, your most obedient servant,
JAMES LCUGLAS.
.-,. / »
■ .:i'
■ ».t-
i T ■■■<
' '-'7 \ *
m
,-^f,-'^'i-
-/«
400
THE UP-COUNTB,Y INDIANS^
■ ■ i
1 "
■ ; i' - '
1 ... J
CHAPTER XXXIV.
I
1842-7. Doubtless the reader remembers the disquiet
felt and expressed by the Indians in the upper country in
the years 1842-3, when Dr. White was among them, lest the
Americans should take away their lands from them with-
out payment. For the time they had been quieted by
presents, by the advice of the Hudson's Bay Company^
and by the Agent's promise that in good time the United
States would send them blankets, guns, ammunition, food
farming implements, and teachers to show them how to
live like the whites.
In the meantime, five years having passed, these prom-
ises had not been kept. Five times a large number of
whites, with their children, their cattle, and wagons, had
passed through their country, and gone down into the
Wallamet Valley to settle. Now they had learned that
the United States claimed the Wallamet valley ; yet they
had never heard that the Indians of that country had re-
ceived any pay for it.
They had accepted the religion of the whites beheving
it would do them good ; but now they were doubtful.
Had they not accepted laws from the United Stati s agent,
and had not their people been punished for acts which
their ancestors and themselves had always before commit-
ted at will ? None of these innovations seemed to do
them any good : th«'^y were disappointed. But the whites,
or Bostons, (meaning the Americans) were coming more
CAUSES OF THKm DISQUIET.
401
and more every year, so that by-and-by there would be
all Bostons and no Indians.
Oiico they had trusted in the words of the Americans ;
but now they knew how worthless were their promises.
The Americans had done them much harm. Years before
had not one of the missionaries suffered several of their
people, and the son of one of their chiefs, to be slain in
his company, yet himself escaped? Had not the son of
another chief who had gone to California to buy cattle,
been killed by a party of Americans, for no fault of his
own ? Their chief's son was killed, the cattle robbed from
his party, after having been paid for; and his friends
obliged to return poor and in grief
To be sure, Dr. White had given them some drafts to
be used in obtaining cattle from the immigration, as a
compensation for their losses in California ; but they could
not make them available ; and those who wanted cattle
had to go down to the Wallamet for them. In short,
could the Indians have thought of an American epithet to
apply to Americans, it would have been that expressive
word humbug. What they felt and what they thought,
was, that they had been cheated. They feared greater
frauds in the future, and they were secretly resolved not
to submit to them. ^ •«
So far as regarded the missionaries. Dr. Whitman and
his associates, they were divided ; yet as so many looked
on the Doctor gs an agent in promoting the settlement of
the country with whites, it was thought best to drive him
from the country, together with all the missionaries. Sev-
eral years before Dr. Whitman had known that the Indians
were displeased with his settlement among them. They
had told him of it : they har* treated him with violence ;
they had attempted to outrage his wife ; had burned his
property; and had more recently several times warned
him to leave their country, or they should kill him.
pi
4-
- + -
402
THEIR FEELINGS TO WARDS DR. WHITMAN.
Not that all were angry at him alike, or that any were
personally very ill-disposed towards him. Every tliiiiif
that a man could do to instruct and elevate these sava"-e
people, he had done, to the best of his ability, together
with his wife and assistants. But he had not been able, or
perhaps had not attempted, to conceal the fact, that he
looked upon the country as belonging to his people, rather
than to the natives, and it was this fact which was at the
bottom of their " bad hearts " toward the Doctor. So often
had warnings been given which were disregarded by Dr,
Whitman, that his friends, both at Vancouver and in the
settlements, had long felt great uneasiness, and often be-
sought him to remove to the Wallamet valley.
* But although Dr. Whitman sometimes was half per-
suaded to give up the mission upon the representations of
others, he could not quite bring himself to do so. So far
as the good conduct of the Indians was concerned, they
had never behaved better than for the last two years.
There had been less violence, less open outrage, than for-
merly ; and their civilization seemed to be progressing ;
while some few were apparently hopeful converts. Yet
there was ever a whisper in the air — "Dr. Whitman must
die."
The mission at Lapwai was peculiarly successful. Mrs.
Spalding, more than any other of the missionaries, had
been able to adapt herself to the Indian character, and to
gain their confidence. Besides, the Nez Perces were a
better nation than the Cayuses ; — more easily controlled
by a good counsel ; and it seemed like doing a wrong to
abandon the work so long as any good was likely to result
from it. There were other reasons too, why the missions
could not be abandoned in haste, one of which was the
difficulty of disposing of the property. This might have
«*-'l;'<f
INFLUENCE OF THE CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES.
403
been done perhaps, to the Catholics, who were establish-
ing missions throughout the upper country ; but Dr. Whit-
man would never have been so false to his own doctrines,
as to leave the field of his labors to the Romish Church.
Yet the division of sentiment among the Indians with
regard to religion, since the Catholic missionaries had come
among them, increased the danger of a revolt : for in
the Indian country neither two rival trading companies,
nor two rival religions can long prosper side by side.
The savage cannot understand the origin of so many re-
ligions. He either repudiates all, or he takes that which
addresses itself to his understanding through the senses.
In the latter respect, the forms of Catholicism, as adapted
to the savage understanding, made that religion a danger-
ous rival to intellectual and idealistic Presbyterian ism. -
But the more dangerous the rival, the greater the firmness
with which Dr. Whitman would cling to his duty.
There were so many causes at work to produce a revo-
lution among the Indians, that it would be unfair to name
any one as the cause. The last and immediate provoca-
tion was a season of severe sickness among them. The
disease was measels, and was brought in the train of the
immigration.
This fact alone was enough topr-'^ike the worst pas-
sions of the savage. The immigration in itself was a suf-
ficient offense ; the introduction through them of a pesti-
lence, a still weightier one. It did not signify that Dr.
Whitman had exerted himself night and day to give them
relief Their peculiar notions about a medicine-man made
it the Doctor's duty to cure. the sick; or made it the duty .
of the relatives of the dead and dying to avenge their
deaths. ^-"^ --'" ' '^ -* ;.;. ■--'■; ,.::v-.
Yet in spite of all and every provocation, perhaps the
fatal tragedy might have been postponed, had it not been
404
THE FATAL TEST.
for the evil influence of one Jo Lewis, a halfbreed, who
had accompanied the emigration from the vicinity of Port
Hall. This Jo Lewis, with a large party of emigrants,
had stopped to winter at the mission, much against Dr.
Whitman's wishes ; for he feared not having food enough
for so many persons. Finding that he could not prevent
them, he took some of the men into his employ, and among
others the stranger half-breed.
This man was much about the house, and affected to re-
late to the Indians conversations which he heard between
Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, and Mr. Spalding, who with his
little daughter, was visiting at W' itpu. These conver-
sations related, to poisoning the ms, in order to get
them all out of the way, so that the white men could en-
joy their country unmolested. Yet this devil incarnate
did not convince his hearers at once of the truth of his
statements ; and it was resolved in the tribe to make a
test of Dr. Whitman's medicine. Three persons were se-
lected to experiment upon , two of them already sick, and
the third quite, well. Whether it was that the medicine
was administered in too large quantities, or whether an
unhappy chance so ordered it, all those three persons died.
Surely it is not singular that in the savage mind this cir-
cumstance should have been deemed decisive. It was
then that the decree went forth that not only the Doctor
and Mrs. Whitman, but all the Americans at the mission
must die.
On the 2 2d of November, Mr. Spalding arrived at
Waiilatpu, from his mission, one hundred and twenty
miles distant, with his daughter, a child of ten years,
bringing with him also several horse-loads of grain, to
help feed the emigrants wintering there. He found the
Indians suffering very much, dying one, two, three, and
sometimes five in a day. Several of the emigrant families.
lih
THE LAST INTEUVIEW.
405
also, were sick with racascls and the dysentery, which fol-
lowed the disease. A child of cue of them died the day
following Mr. Spalding's arrival.
Dr. Whitman's family consisted of himself and wife,
a young man named Rodgers, who was employed as a
teacher, and also studying for the ministry, two young
people, a brother and sister, named Bulee, seven orphaned
children of one family, whose parents had died on the
road to Oregon in a previous year, named Sagor, Helen
Mar, the daughter of Joe Meek, another little half-breed
gill, daughter of Bridge r the fur-trader, a half-breed
Spanish boy whom the Doctor had brought up from in-
foncy, and two sons of a Mr. Mauson, of the Hudson's
Bay Company.
Besides these, there were half-a-dozen other families at
the mission, and at the saw-mill, twenty miles distant, five
families more — in all, forty-six persons at Waiilatpu, and
fift(!en at the mill, who were among those who suffered by
the attack. But there were also about the mission, three
others, Joe Lewis, Nicholas Finlay, and Joseph Stanfield,
who probably knew what was about to tak( place, and
may, therefore be reckoned as among the conspirators.
While Mr. Spalding was at Waiilatpu, a message came
from two Walla- Walla chiefs, living on the Umatilla River,
to Dr. Whitman, desiring him to visit the sick in their
villages, and the two friends set out together to attend to
the call, on the evening of the 27th of November. Says
Mr. Spalding, referring to that time: "The night was
dark, and the wind and rain beat furiously upon us. But
our interview was sweet. We little thought it was to be
our last. With feelings of the deepest emotion we called
to mind the fact, that eleven years before, we crossed this
trail before arriving at Walla- Walla, the end of our seven
months' journey from New York. We called to mind
in
I
406
NIGHT VISIT TO THE UMATILLA.
the high hopes and thrilling interests which had been
awakened during the year that followed — of our success-
ful labors and the constant devotedness of the Indians to
improvement. True, we remembered the months of deep
solicitude we had, occasioned by the increasing menacing
dcuiaiids ot the Indians for pay for their wood, their
water, their air, their lands. But much of this had passed
away, and the Cayuses were in a far more encoiiragi-.ig
condition than ever before."' Mr. Spalding further re-
lates that himself and Dr. Whitman also conversed on the
danger which threatened them from the CathoHc influeucp,
"We felt," he says, "that the present sickness afforded
them a favorable opportunity to excite the Indians to
drive us from the country, and all the movements about
us seemed to indicate that this would soon be attempted,
if not executed," Such was the suspicion in the minds
of the Protestants. Let us hope that it was not so well
founded as they believed.
The two friends arrived laic at the lodge of Stickas, a
chief, and laid down before a blazing Ire to dry their
drenched clothing. In the morning a ^^ood breakfast was
prepared for them, consisting of betf, vegetables, and
bread — all of which showed the improvement of the In-
dians in the art of living. The day, being Sunday, was
observed with as much decorum as in a white man's Louse.
After breakfast. Dr. Whitman crossed the river to visit
the chiefs who had sent for him, namely, Tan-i-tan^ Five
Groivs^ and Yam-ha-wa-lis. returning about four o'clock
in the afternoon, saying he had taken tea with the Cath-
olic bishop and two priests, at their house, which belonged
to Tan-i-tan^ and that they had promised to visit him in a
short time. He then departed for the mission, feeling
uneasy about the sick one? at home. . /
Mr. Spalding remained with the intention of visiting;
J.
''■^
STICKAS WARNING — THE DEATH-SONG.
407
ich had been
r our success-
he Indians to
lonths of deep
jing menacing
I' wood, their
lis had passed
e encouraging
ig further re-
iversed on the
lolic influent^,
mess afforded
he Indians to
^rements about
be attempted,
in the minds
as not so well
3 of Sttchas, a
3 to dry their
breakfast was
igetables, and
lent of the In-
J Sunday, was
a man's Louse.
river to visit
\n4-tan^ Five
t four o'clock
with the Cath-
hich belonged
visit him in a
ission, feeling
on of visitin
the sick and offering consolation to the dying. But he
gt)on discovered that there was a weighty and uncomfort-
able secret on the mind of his entertainer, Stickas. After
much questioning, Stickas admitted that the thought which
troubled him was that the Americans had been " decreed
against" by his people ; more he could not be induced to
reveal. Anxious, yet not seriously alarmed, — for these
warnings had been given before many times,- -he retired
to bis couch of skins, on the evening of the 29th, being
Monday — not to sleep, however; for on either side of
him an Indian woman sat down to chant the death-song
—that frightful lament which announces danger and death.
On being questioned they would reveal nothing.
On the following morning, Mr. Spalding could no longer
remain in uncertainty, but set out for Waiilatpu. As he
mounted his horse to depart, an Indian woman placed
her hand on the neck of his horse to arrest him, and pre-
tending to be arranging his headgear, said in a low voice
to the rider, " Beware of the Cayuses at the mission,"
Now more than ever disturbed by this intimation that it
was the mission which was threatened, he hurried for-
w. d, fearing for his daughter and his friends. He pro-
ceoded without meeting anv one until within sight of the
lovely Walla-Walla valley, imost in sight of the mission
itself, when suddenly, at a wooded spot where the trail
passes through a little hollow, he beheld two horsemen
advancing, whom he watched with a fluttering heart,
lonf/ing for, ond yet di'eading, the news which the very
air seemed whispering.
The two horsemen proved to be the Ci'.Lholic Vicar
General, Brouillet, who, with a party of priests and nuns
had arrived in the country only a few months previous,
and his half-breed interpreter, both of whom were known
.-i . I-,
y
408
MjiETING WITH BROUILLET.
to Mr. Spalding. They each drew rein as they approacli-
ed, Mr. Spalding immediately inquiring "what news?"
" There are very many sick at the Whitman station "
answered Brouillet, with evident embarrassment.
" How are Doctor and Mrs. Whitman ?" asked Spaldin^
anxiously.
" The Doctor is ill — is dead," added the priest reluc-
tantly.
"And Mrs. Whitman?" gasped Spalding. ■ '- '
" Is dead also. The Indians have killed them."
" My daughter ?" murmured the agonized questioner,
" Is safe, with the other prisoners," answered Brouillet.
"And then," says Spalding in speaking of that moment
of infinite horror, when in his imagination a picture of the
massacre, of the anguish of his child, the sufiering of the
prisoners, of the probable destruction of his own family
and mission, and his surely impending fate, all rose up
before him — " I felt the world all blotted out at once, and
sat on my horse as rigid as a stone, not knowing or feeling
anything."
While this conversation had been going on the half-
breed interpreter had kept a sinister watch over the com-
munication, and his actions had so suspicious a look that
the priest ordered him to ride on ahead. When he had
obeyed, Brouillet gave some rapid instructions to Spald-
ing ; not to go near the mission, where he could do no
good, but would be certainly murdered ; but to fly, to
hide himself until the excitement was over. The men at
the mission were probably all killed ; the women and
children would be spared ; nothing could be done at pres-,
ent but to try to save his own life, which the Indians were
resolved to take.
The conversation was hurried, for there was no time to
lose, Spalding gave his pack-horse to Brouillet, to avoid
MR. SPALDING S NIGHT JOURNEY.
409
ii
ligiiio- encumbered by it; and taking some provisions
^vliich the priest offered, struck off into the woods there
to hitle until dark. Nearly a week from this night he ar-
rived at the Lapwai mission, starved, torn, with bleeding
foet as well as broken heart. Oblige i to secrete himself
by day, his horse had escaped from him, leaving him to
perforin his night journeys on foot over the sharp rocks
and prickly cactus plants, until not only his shoes had
' ecn worn out, but his feet had become cruelly lacerated.
Ihe constant fear which had preyed upon his heart of
finding his family murdered, had produced fearful havoc
in the life-forces; and although Mr. Spalding had the hap-
piness of finding that the Nez Perces had been true to
Mrs. Spalding, defending her from destruction, yet so
great had been the first shock, and so long cor tinned the
strain, that his nervous -system remained a wreck ever
afterward. - »
?l
i.^f:
-y
;;..t-.
.'♦'
410
THE TRAGEDY AT WAIILATPU.
CHAPTER XXXV.
1847. When Dr. Whitman reached home on that Sun-
clay night, after parting with Mr. Spalding at the Umatilla,
it was already about midnight ; yet he visited the sick
before retiring to rest ; and early in the morning resumed
his duties among them. An Indian died that mornino'
At his burial, which the Doctor attended, he observed
that but few of the friends and relatives of the deceased
were present but attributed it to the fear which the In-
dians have of disease.
Everything about the mission was going on as usual.
Quite a number of Indians were gathered about the place;
but as an ox was being butchered, the crowd was easily
accounted for. Three men were dressing the beef in the
yard. The afternoon session of the mission scliool had
just commenced. The mechanics belonging to the station
were about their various avocations. Young Biilee was
sick in the Doctor's house. Three of the orphan children
who were recovering from the measles, were with the
Doctor and Mrs. Whitman in the sitting-room ; and also a
Mrs. Osborne, one of the emigrants who had just got up
from a sick bed and who had a sick child in her arms.
The Doctor liad just come in, wearied, and dejected as it
was possible for his resolute spir.'t to be, and had seated
himself, bible in hand, when several Indians came to a side
door, asking permission to come in and get some medicine.
The Doctor rose, got his medicines, gave them out, and
J.
me on that Sun-
at the Umatilla,
'isited the sick
orning resumed
that morniiiff
ed, he observed
of the deceased
' which the In-
ng on as usual.
ibout the place;
owd was easily
the beef in the
don school had
g to the station
ung Bulce was
)rphan children
were with the
om ; and also a
lad just got up
in her arms,
d dejected as it
md had seated
3 came to a side
some medicine.
them out, and
■.:M
-Vfi-*-'
COMMENCEMENT OF THE MASSACRE.
411
sat down again. At that moment Mrs. Whitman was in
an adjoining room and did not see what followed. Tarn-
a-has, a chief called " the murderer," came behind the
Doctor's chair, and raising his tomahawk, struck the Doc-
tor in the back of the head, stunning but not killing him.
Instantly there was a violent commotion. John Sager,
one of the adopted children, sprang up with his pistol in
his hand, but before he could fire it, he too was struck
(lo^vn, and cut and hacked shockingly. In the meantime
Dr. Whitman had received a second blow upon the head,
and now laid lifeless on the floor. Cries and confusion
filled the house.
At the first sound, Mrs. Whitman, in whose ears that
whisper in the air had so long sounded, began in agony
to stamp upon the fioor, and wring her hands, crying out,
"Oh, the Indians, the Indians!" At that moment one of
the women from an adjoining building came running in,
gasping with terror, for the butchery was going on outside
as well, and Tam-a-has and his associates were now assist-
ing at it. Going to the room where the Doctor lay insen-
sible, Mrs. Whitman and her terrified neighbor dragged
him to the sofa and laid him upon it, doing all they could
to revive him. To all their inquiries he answered by a
whispered "no," probably not conscious what was said.
While this was being done, tne people from every quar-
ter began to crowd into the Doctor's house, many of them
wounded. Outside were heard the shrieks of women, the
yells of the Indians, the roar of musketry, the noise of fu-
rious riding, of meeting war-clubs, groans, and every
frightful combination of sound, such as only could be heard
at such a carnival of blood. Still Mrs. Whitman sat by
her husband's side, intent on trying to rouse him to say
one coherent word. '':-''■'■:.■:■''■:..■ ^'-i'-'
Nearer and nearer came the struggle, and she heard
rm
412
THE MURDER OP MRS. WHITMAN.
I
„ -. Fn.Tif
, ill
R'' s
some one exclaim that two of her friends were being m\a-
dered beneath the window. Starting up, she approached
the casement to get a view, as if by looking she could
save ; but that moment she encountered the fiendish gaze
of Jo Lewis the half-breed, and comprehended his guilt,
" Is it you, Jo, who are doing this?" she cried. Before the
expression of horror had left her lips, a young Indian who
had been a special favorite about the mission, drew up his
gun and fired, the ball entering her right breast, when she
fell without a groan.
When the people had at first rushed in, Mrs. Whitman
had ordered the doors fastened and the sick children re-
moved to a room up stairs. Thither now she was herself
conveyed, having first recovered sufficiently to stagger to
the sofa where lay her dying husband. Those who wit-
nessed this strange scene, say that she knelt and prayed—
prayed for the orphan children she was leaving, and for
her aged parents. The only expression of personal regret
she was heard to utter, was sorrow that her father and
mother should live to know she had perished in such a
manner.
In the chamber were now gathered Mrs. Whitman, Mrs,
Hayes, Miss Bulee, Catharine Sager, thirteen years of age,
and three of the sick children, besides Mr. Rogers and Mr
Kimble. Scarcely had they gained this retreat when the
crashing of windows and doors was heard below, and with
whoops and yells the savages dashed into the sitting-room
where Doctor Whitman still lay d3ring. While some
busied themselves removing from the house the goods and
furniture, a chief named Te-lau-ka-ikt, a favorite at the
mission, and on probation for admission into the church,
deliberately chopped and mangled the face of his still
breathing teacher and friend with his tomahawk, until every
feature was rendered unrecognizable. . •
i
""^
THE SUFFERINGS OF THE CHmDREN.
413
The children from the school-house were brought into
the kitchen of the Doctor's house about this time, by Jo
Lewis, where, he told them, they were going to be shot.
Mr. Spalding's little girl Eliza, was among them. Under-
standing the native language, she was fully aware of the
terrible import of what was being said by their tormen-
tors. While the Indians talked of shooting the children
huddled together in the kitchen, pointing their guns, and
yelling, Eliza covered her face with her apron, and leaned
over upon the sink, that she might not see them shoot her.
After being tortured in this manner for some time, the
children were finally ordered out of doors.
While this was going on, a chief called Tamt-sahy^ was
trying to induce Mrs, Whitman to come down into the
sitting-room.
She replied that she was wounded and could not do so,
upon which he professed much sorrow, and still desired
her to be brought down, " If you are my friend Tamt-
sahy^ come up and see me," was her reply to his profes-
sions, but he objected, sa3ring there were Americans con-
cealed in the chamber, whom he feared might kill him.
Mr. Rogers then went to the head of the stairs and en-
deavored to have the chief come up, hoping there might
be some friendly ones, who would aid them in escaping
from the murderers. Tamt-sak-y^ however, would not
come up the stairs, although he persisted in saying that
Mrs. Whitman should not be harmed, and that if all would
come down and go over to the other house where the fami-
lies were collected, they might do so in safety.
The Indians below now began to call out that they were
going to burn the Doctor's house. Then no alternative
remained but to descend and trust to the mercy of the
savages. As Mrs. Whitman entered the sitting-room, lean-
ing on one arm of Mr. Rogers, who also was wounded in
414
THE VICTIMS TORTURED.
the head, and had a broken arm, she caught a view of tlie
shockingly mutilated face of her husband and fell faintinc
upon the sofa, just as Doctor Whitman gave a dying gasp,
Mr. Rogers and Mrs. Hayes now attempted to get the
sofa, or settee, out of the house, and had succeeded in
moving it through the kitchen to the door. No sooner
did they appear in the open door-way than a volley of balls
assailed them. Mr. Rogers fell at once, but did not die
immediately, for one of the most horrid features in this
horrid butchery was, that the victims were murdered by
torturing degrees. Mrs. Whitman also received several
gunshot wounds, lying on the settee. Francis Stager, the
oldest of her adopted boys, was dragged into the group of
dying ones and shot down.
The children, who had been turned out of the kitchen
were still huddled together about the kitchen door, so
near to this awful scene that every incident was known to
them, so near that the flashes from the guns of the Indians
burnt their hair, and the odor of the blood and the burn-
ing powder almost suffocated them.
At two o'clock in the afternoon the massacre had com-
menced. It was now growing dusk, and the demons were
eager to finish their work. Seeing that life still lingered
in the mangled bodies of their victims, they finished their
atrocities by hurling them in the mud and gore which filled
the yard, and beating them upon their faces with whips
and clubs, while the air was filled with the noise of their
shouting, singing, and dancing — the Indian women and
children assisting at these orgies, as if the Bible had never
been preached to them. And thus, after eleven years of
patient endeavor to save some heathen souls alive, perished
Doctor and Mrs. Whitman.
In all that number of Indians who had received daily
kindnesses at the hands of the missionaries, only two
ESCAPE or MR, OSBORNE AND FAMILY,
415
showed any compassion. These two, Ups and Madpool^
Walla- Wallas, who were employed by the Doctor, took
the childi'cn away from the sickening sights that sur-
rouiuled them, into the kitchen pantry, and there in secret
tried to comfort them.
When niglit set in the chihlren and families were all re-
moved to the building called the mansion-house, where they
spent a night of horror ; all, except those who were left in
Mrs. Whitman's chamber, from which they dared not de-
scend, and the family of Mr. Osborne, who escaped.
On the first assault Mr. and Mrs. Osborne ran into their
bedroom which adjoined the sitting-room, taking with
them tlicir three small children. Raising a plank in the
floor, Mr. 0. quickly thrust his wife and children into the
.space beneath, and then following, let the plank down to
its place. Here they remained until darkness set in, able
t) hear all that was passing about them, and fearing to
stir. When all was quiet at the Doctor's house, they stole
out under cover of darkness and succeeded in reaching
Fort Walla- Walla, after a painful journey of several days,
or rather nights, for they dared not travel by day.
Another person who escaped was a Mr. Hall, carpenter,
who in a hand to hand contest with an Indian, received a
wound in the face, but finally reached the cover of some
bushes where he remained until dark, and then fled in the
direction of Fort Walla- Walla. Mr. Hall was the first to
arrive at the fort, where, contrary to his expectations, and
to all humanity, he was but coldly received by the gentle-
man in charge, Mr. McBean. ........ ..... ...
Whether it was from cowardice or cruelty as some al-
leged, that Mr. McBean rejoiced in the slaughter of the
Protestant missionaries, himself being a Catholic, can never
be known. Had that been true, one might have supposed
that their death would have been enough, and that he
27
)h
M
Pli;'
416
ESCAPE AND FATE OF Mil. HALL.
might have slioltercd a wounded man floeinrr for his life
without grudging him tliisatoni of coniiurt, Unfortunntoiy
for Mr. Mc'Bean's reputation, he deehncd to grant suchslnjl-
tcr willingly. Mr. Hall remained, however, twelve hours
until he heard a report that the women and chiklremvere
murdered, when, knowing how unwelcome he waa, and be-
ing in a htdf distracted state, ho consented to be set across
the Cohnnbia to make his way as best he could to the vValla-
met. From this hour he was never seen or heard from,
the manner of his death remaining a mystery to his wife
and tlieir family of five children, who were among the
prisoners at "Waiilatpu.
When Mr. Osborne left the mission in jhe darkness, he
WIS able only to proceed about two mikj, L >fore Mrs. Os-
borne's strength gave way, she lately having been con-
fined by an untimely birth ; and he was compelled to stop,
secreting himself and family in some bushes. Here they
remained, suffering with cold, and insullieient food, having
only a little bread and cold mush which they had found
in the pantry of the Doctor's house, before leaving it. On
Tuesday night, Mrs. 0. was able to move about three miks
more : and again they were compelled to stop. In this
way to proceed, they must all perish of starvation;
therefore on Wednesday night Mr. 0. took the second
child and started with it for the fort, where he arrived be-
•fore noon on Thursday.
i'- Although Mr.McBcan received him with friendliness of
manner, he refused him horses to go for Mrs. Osborne and
his other children, and even refused to furnish food to re-
relieve their hunger, telling him to go to the Umatilla.
and forbidding his return to the fort. A little food was I
given to himself and child, who had been fasting since
Monday night. Whether Mr. McBean would have allowed
;this man to perish is uncertain : but certain it is that some
CIIUEL TUKATMKNT OF FPOITIVES.
417
I ;i 0 or cownrflly irotive made liim cxcocdiiigly cruel to
l„)i!i IImII and Osborne.
While Mr Osborne was partaking of his tea and cracker.*',
flioro arrived at the fort Mr. Stanley, the artist, whom tlie
reader will rcinoinber having met in the mountains several
vcars before. When the case became known to him, he
(ilFcrcd his horses immediately to go for Mrs. Osborne.
Shiiiiied into an appearance of humanity, Mr. McBean then
fiiniishcd an Indian guide to accompany Mr. 0. to the
rmatiliii, where he still insisted the fugitives should go,
tlioiip:h this was in the murderer's country.
A little meat and a few crackers were furnished for the
supper of the travelers ; and with a handkerchief for his
hatless iioad and a pair of socks for his child's naked feet,
all furnished by Mr. Stanley, Mr. Osborne set out to return
to his sufl'ering wife and children. He and his guide trav-
eled rapidly, arriving in good time near the spot where
lie believed his family to be concealed. But the darkness
liad confused his recollection, and after beating the bushes
until daylight, the unhappy husband and father was about
to give up the search in despair, when his guide at length
discovered their retreat.
The poor mother and children were barely alive, hav-
ing suffered much from famine and exposure, to say noth-
ing of their fears. Mrs. Osborne was compelled to be
tied to the Indian in order to sit her horse. In this con-
dition the miserable fugitives turned toward the Umatilla,
in obedience to the command of McBean, and were only
saved from being murdered by a Cayuse by the scornful
words of the guide, who shamed the murderer from his
purpose of slaughtering a sick and defenceless family.
At a Canadian farm-house, where they stopped to change
horses, they were but roughly received ; and learning
here that Tamt-sahy's lodge was near by, Mrs. Osborne
\ i\
mm
418
KINDNESS OF STICK AS.
■MM&
refused to proceed any farther toward the Umatilla. She
said, " I doubt if I can live to reach the Umatilla ; and if
I must die, I may as well die at the gates of the Fort."
Let us. then, turn back to the Fort."
To this the guide assented, saying it was not safe goinf
among the Cayuses. The I'ttle party, quite exhausted,
reached Walla-Walla about ten o'clock at nigh', and were
at once admitted. Contrary to his former course, Mr.
McBean now ordered a hre made to warm the benumbed
travelers, ^vho, after being made tolerably comfortable,
were placed in a secret room of the fort. Again Mr.
Osborne was importuned to go away, down to the Walla-
met, Mr. McBean promising to take care )f bis family
and furnish him an outfit L he would do so. Upon being
asked to furnish a ])oat, and Indians to man it, in order
that the family might accompany him, he replied that his
Indians refused to go.
From all this reluctance, not only on the part of Mc-
Bean, but of the Indians also, to do any act which ap-
peared like befriending the ximericans, it would appear
that there was a very general fear of the Cayuse Indians,
and a belief that they wore about to inaugurate a general
war upon the Americans, and their friends and allies. Mr
Osborne, hovv'Gvor, refused to leave his family behind, and
Mr. M Bean was forced to let him remain until relief
came. When it did come at last, in the shape of Mr.
Ogden's party, Stickas^ the chief who had wp.rned Mr.
Spalding, showed his kind feeling for the su:Terers by
removing his own cap and placing it on Mr. Osborne's
head, and by tying a handkerchief over the ears of Mr.
Osborne's little son, as he said, " to keep him warm, going
down the river." Sadly indeed, did the little ones who
sulfered by the massacre at Waiilatpu, stand in need of
any Christian kindness. v'
HOKllORS OF THE WAIILATPU MABSACRB.
419
CHAPTER XXXYI.
1847. A FULL account of the horrors of the Waii-
latpu massacre, together with the individual sufferings of
the captives v/hose lives were spared, would fill a volume,
and be harvovving to the reader ; therefore, only so much
of it will be given here as, from its bearing upon Oregon
history, is important to our narrative.
The day following the massacre, being Tuesday, was
the day on which Mr. Spalding was met and warned not
to go to the mission, by the Vicar General, Brouillet.
Happening at the mission on that day, and finding the
bodies of tho 'victims still unburied, Brouillet had them
hastily interred before leaving, if interment it could be
called which left them still a prey to wolves. The reader
of this chapter of Oregon history will always be very much
puzzled to understand by what means the Catholic priests
procured their perfect ex(3mption from harm during this
time of terror to the Americans. Was it that they were
French, and that they came into the country only 0;S mis-
sionaries of a religion adapted to the savage mind, and
not as settlers ? Was it at all owing to the fact that they
were celibates, with no families to excite jealous feelings
of comparison in the minds of their converts ?
Through a long and bitter war of words, which fol-
lowed the massacre at Waiilatpu, terrible sins were charged
upon the priests — no less than inciting the Indians to the
murder of the Protestants, and winkiue: at the atrocities of
420
EXEMPTION OF THE CATHOLIC'3.
every kind committed by the savages. Whether thpv
feared to enter into the quarrel, and were restrained from
showing sympathy solely by this fear, is a question only
themselves ean determine. Certain it is, that they pre-
served a neutral position, when to be neutral was to seer,!,
if not to be, devoid of human sympathies. That the
event would have happened without any other provoca-
tion than such as the Americans furnished by their own
reckless disregard of Indian prejudices, seems evident.
The question, and the only question which is suggested
by a knowledge of all the circumstances, is whether the
event was helped on by an intelligent outside influence.
It was quite natural that the Protestants should wonder
at the immunity from danger which the priests enjoyed;
and that, not clearly seeing the reason, they should sus-
pect them of collusion with the Indians. It was natural,
too, for the sufferers from the massacre to look for some
expression of sympathy from any and all denominations
of Christians ; and that, not receiving it, they should have
doubts of the motives which prompted such reserve.
The story of that time is but an unpleasant record, and
had best be lightly touched upon. : . i
The work of death and destruction did not close with
the first day at Waiilatpu. Mr. Kimble, who had re-
mained in the chamber of the Doctor's house all night,
had suffered much from the pain of his broken arm. On
Tuesday, driven desperate by his own sufferings, and those
of the three sick children with him, one of whom was the
little Helen Mar Meek, he resolved to procure some water
from the stream which ran near the house. But he had
not proce-cded more than a few rods before he was shot
down and killed instantly. The same day, a Mr. Young,
from the saw-mill, was also killed. In the course of the
week, Mr. Bulee, who was sick over at the mansion, was
brutally murdered.
FATE OF THE YOUNG WOMEN.
421
(I
Meanwhile the female captives and children were en-
during such agony as seldom falls to the lot of humanity
to sailer. Compelled to work for the Indians, their feel-.
iii"-s were continually harrowed up by the terrible sights
wliic'li everywhere met their eyes in going back and forth
between the houses, in carrying water from the stream, or
moving in any direction whatever. For the dead were
not removed until the setting in of decay made it neces-
sary to the Indians themselves.
The goods belonging to the mission were taken from
tlie store-roc>m, and the older women ordered to make them
uiMnto clothing for the Indians. The b lildings were plun-
dered of everything which the Indiars coveted; all the
rest of their contents that could not be made useful to
themselves were destroyed. Those of the captives who
were sick were not allowed proper attention, and in a day
or two Helen Mar Meek died of neglect.
Thus passed four or five days. On Saturday a new
horror was added to the others. The savages began to
carry off the young women for wives. Three were thus
dragged away to Indian lodges to suffer tortures worse
than death. One young girl, a daughter of Mr. Kimble,
was taken possession of by the murderer of her father,
who took daily delight in reminding her of that fact, and
when her sorrow could no longer be restrained, only
threatened to exchange her for another young girl who
was also a wife by compulsion.
Miss Bulee, the eldest of the young women at the mission,
and who was a toacher in the mission school, was taken to
the Umatilla, to the lodge of Five- Crows. As has before
heen related, there was a house on the Umatilla belonging
to Tan-i-tan^ in which were residing at this time two Cath-
olic priests — the Vicar-General Brouillet, and Blanchet,
Bishop of Walla- Walla. To this house Miss Bulee applied
422
MISS BULEE AND THE PKIESTS.
for protection, and was refused, whether from fear, or from
the motives subsequently attributed to them by some
Protestant writers in Oregon, is not known to any but
themselves. The only thing certain about it is, that Miss
Bulce was allowed to be violently dragged from their
presence every night, to return to them weeping in the
morning, and to have her entreaties for their assistance
answered by assurances from them tlia^ the wisest course
for her was to submit. And this continued for more thim
two weeks, until the news of Mr. Ogden's arrival at Walla-
Walla became known, when Miss Bulee was told that if
Five- Crows would not allow her to remain at their house
altogether, she must remain at the lodge of Five-Cmos
without coming to their house at all, well knowing what
Five- Crows would do, but wishing to have Miss Bulee's
action seem voluntary, from shame perhaps, at their own
cowardice. Yet the reason they gave ought to go for all
it is worth — that they beiug priests could not have a
woman about their house. In this unhappy situation did
the female captives spend three most miserable weeks.
In the meantime the mission at Lapwai had been broken
up, but not destroyed, nor had any one suffered death as
was at first feared. The intelligence of the massacre at
Waiilatpu was first conveyed to Mrs. Spalding by a Mr.
Camfield, who at tht3 breaking out of the massacre, fled
with his wife and children to a small room in the attic of
the mansion, from the window of which he was able to
behold the scenes which followed. When night came Mr.
Camfield contrived to elude observation and descend into
the yard, where he encountered a French Canadian long
in the employ of Dr. Whitman, and since suspected to
have been privy to the plan of the murders. To him Mr.
Camfield confided his intention to escape, and obtained a
promise that a horse should be brought to a certain place
J*
ESCAPE OF MR. CAMFIELD.
423
at a certain time for his use. But the Canadian failing to
appear with his horse, Mr. C. set out on foot, and under
cover of night, in the direction of the Lapwai mission.
He arrived in the Nez Perce country on Thursday. On
the following daj^ he came upon a camp of these people,
and procured from them a guide to Lapwai, without, how-
ever, speaking of what had occurred at Waiilatpu.
The caution of Mr. Camfield relates to a trait of Indian
character which the reader of Indian history must bear in
mind, that is, the close relationship and identity of feeling
of allied tribes. Why .iC did not inform the Nez Perces
of the deed done by their relatives, the Cayuses, was be-
cause in that case he would have expected them to have
sympathized with their allies, even to the point of making
him a prisoner, or of taking his life. It is this fact concern-
ing the Indian character, which alone furnishes an excuse
for the conduct of Mr. McBean and the Catholic priests.
Upon it Mr. Camfield acted, making no sign of fear, nor
betraying any knowledge of the terrible matter on his
mind to the Nez Perces.
On Saturday afternoon Mr. C. arrived at Mrs. Spalding's
house and dismissed his guide with the present of a buf-
flilo robe. When he was alone with Mrs. Spalding he
told his unhappy secret. It was then that the strength
and firnniess of Mrs. Spalding's character displayed itself
ill her decisive action. Well enough she knew the close
bond between the Nez Perces and Cayuses, and also the
treachery of the Indian character. But she saw that if
affairs were left to shape themselves as Mr. Camfield
entreated they might be left to do, putting off the evil
day, — that when the news came from the Cayuses, there
Avould be an outbreak. ' ■ . . ■•-;' ,,^-.'
The only chance of averting this danger was to inform
tho chiefs most attached to her, at once, and throw herself
i:
!^
Bi\h
I .
424
IIEIIOISM OF MRS. SPALDING.
and her family upon their mercy. Her resohition was
taken not an hour too soon. Two of the chiefs most re-
lied upon happened to be at the place that very afternoon
one of whom was called Jacobs and the other Engh. To
these two Mrs. Spalding confided the news without delay,
and took counsel of them. According to her hopes, they
assumed the responsibility of protecting her. One of
them went to inform his camp, and give them orders to
stand by Mrs. S., while the other carried a note to Mr.
Craig, one of our Rocky Mountain acquaintances, who
lived ten miles from the mission. ,. ... .• t i iv. ,,
Jacob and Eagle^ with two other friendly chiefs, deci-
ded that Mrs. S. must go to their camp near Mr. Craig's;
because in case the Cayuses came to the mission as was to
be expected, she would be safer with them. Mrs. S. how-
ever would not consent to make the move on the Sabbath,
but begged to be allowed to remain quiet until Monday.
Late Saturday evening Mr. Craig came down ; and Mrs.
Spalding endeavored with his assistance to induce the In-
dians to carry an express to Cimikain in the country of
the Spokanes, where Messrs. Walker and Eells had a sta-
tion. Not an Indian could be persuaded to go. An ef-
fort, also, was made by the heroic and suffering wife and
mother, to send an express to Waiilatpu to learn the fate
of her daughter, and if possible of her husband. But the
Indians were none of them inclined to go. They said,
without doubt all the women and children were slain.
That Mr. Spalding was alive no one believed. ; v rk
The reply of Mrs. S. to thoir objections was that she
could not believe that they were her friends if they would
not undertake this journey, for the relief of her feehngs
under such circumstances. At length Eagle consented to
go ; but so much opposed were the others to having any-
thing done which their relations, the Cayuses, might be
''■^
THE LAPWAI MISSION PLUNDERED.
425
(]i<i)loasod with, that it was nearly twenty-four hours be-
fore tAujh got leave to go.
On Monday morning a Nez Perce arrived from Waii-
latpuwith the news of what the Cayuses had done. With
liim were a number of Indians from the camp where Mr.
Camfield had stopped for a guide, all eager for plunder, and
for murder too, had not they found Mrs. Spalding pro-
tected by several chiefs. Her removal to their camp
probiibly saved her from the fate of Mrs. Whitman.
Among those foremost in plundering the mission build-
in n-.s at Lapwai were some of the hitherto most exemplary
Indians among the Nez Perces. Even the chief, first in
authority after Ellis, who was absent, was prominent in
tliese robberies. For eight years had this chief, Joseph,
lieen a member of the church at Lapwai, and sustained a
good reputation during that time. How bitter must have
been the feelings of Mrs. Spalding, who had a truly de-
voted missionary heart, when she beheld the fruit of her
life's labor turned to ashes in her sight as it wab by the
conduct of Joseph and his family.
Shortly after the removal of Mrs. Spalding, and the pil-
laging of the buildings, Mr. Spalding arrived at Lapwai
from his long and painful journey during which he had
wandered much out of his way, and suffered many things.
His appearance was the signal for earnest consultations
among the Nez Perces who were not certain that they
might safely give protection to him without the consent
of the Cayuses. To his petition that they should carry a
letter express to Fort Colville or Fort Walla- Walla, they
would not consent. Their reason for refusing seemed to
bo a fear that such a letter might be answered by an
aimed body of Americans, who would come to avenge the
deaths of their countrymen. ■• . ; > > .> , .*
To deprive them of this suspicion, Mr. Spalding told
.1,^-:
426
MR. SPALDING S ARRIVAL AT LAPWAI.
thorn that as he had been robbed of everything, he had
no means of paying tlicm for their services to his family,
and that it was necessary to write to Walla- Walla for
blankets, and to the Umatilla for his horses. He assured
them that he would write to his countrymen to keep qu'ot
and that they had nothing to fear from the Americans,
The truth was, however, that he had forwarded through
Bi'ouillet, a letter to Gov. Abernethy asking for help
which could only come into that hostile country armed
and equipped for war. And it was fearing this, that the
Indians detained him and his fiimily as hostages until it
became apparent what the Americans meant to do.
Happily for the captives both at Waiilatpu and else-
where, the prompt action of the Hudson's Bay Company
averted any collision between the Indians and Americans,
until after they had been ransomed. . ' *
Late in the month of December there arrived in Ore-
gon City to be delivered to the governor, sixty-two cap-
tives, bought from the Cay uses and Nez Perces by Hud-
son's Bay blankets and goods ; and obtained at that price
by Hudson's Bay influence. "No other power on earth,"
says Joe Meek, the American, "could have rescued those
prisoners from the hands of the Indians;" and no man
better than Mr, Meek understood the Indian character,
or the Hudson's Bay Company's power over them.
The number of victims to the Waiilatpu massacre was
fourteen. None escaped who had not to mourn a father,
brother, son, or friend. If "the blood of the martyrs is
the seed of the church," there ought to arise on the site
of Waiilatpu a generation of extraordinary piety. As for
the people for whom a noble man and woman, and num-
bers of innocent persons were sacrificed, they have re-
turned to their traditions ; with the exception of the Nez
Perces, who under the leadership of their old teacher Mr.
COUNTRY ABANDONED TO THE INDIANS.
427
Spalding, have once more resumed the pursuits of civil-
ized and Christianized nations.
As early in the Spring as possible Messrs. Walker and
Kclls left the Cimikain mission, and settled in the Walla-
met Valley, leaving the upper country entirely in the
luinds of the Indians for a period of several years, during
which Oregon went through her Indian wars.
.' . I
": >:•. ■!■"• ■■ ; ■ .' ■ ; i'.i: .: ■■■< . U'-'
Alt*.*. '5 I
428
THE CALL TO AltMS.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
• 1 ♦! :
1847-8, When the contents of Mr. Douglas' letter to
the governor became known to the citizens of the Walla-
met settU luent, the greatest excitement prevailed. On
the reading of that letter, and those accompanying it, be-
fore the House, a resolution was immediately introduced
authorizing the governor to raise a company of riflemen,
not to exceed fifty in number, to occupy and hold the
mission station ai the Dalles, until a larger force could le
raised, and such measures adopted as the government
might think advisable. This resolution being sent to the
governor without delay, received his approval, when the
House adjourned.
A large meeting of the citizens was held that evening,
which was addressed by several gentlemen, among whom
was Meek, whose taste for Indian fighting was whetted to
keenness by the aggravating circumstances of the Waiilat-
pu massacre, and the fact that his little Helen Mar was
among the captives. Impatient as was Meek to avenge
the murders, he was too good a mountain-man to give any
rash advice. All that could be done under the existing
circumstances was to trust to the Hudson's Bay Company
for the rescue of the prisoners, and to take such means for
defending the settlements as the people in their unarmed
condition could devise.
The legislature undertook the settlement of the ques-
tion of ways and means. To raise money for the carrying
il
WAYS AND MEANS OF DEFENCE.
429
out of the most important measures immodiatoly, was a
tusk which after some consideration was entrusted to tliree
commissioners; and by these commissioners letters were
iuldressed to the Hudson's Bay Company, the superintend-
ent of the Metliodist mission, and to the " mercliants and
citizens of Oregon." The latter communication is valua-
ble as fully explaining tlic position of allairs at that time
in Oregon, It is dated Dec. 17th, and was as follows :
Gknti.kmen : — You are aware that the undersignotl have been oharired hy
tlic Ir .'islatiire of our provisional govcrninont witli tin; difUciilt duty of ohtain-
iii^ tin' lU'ccs.sary lueanB to arm, ccjiiip, and support in llu; field a force puflicient
to obtain full satisfaction of the Cayuse Indians, for the late massacre at Waiilat-
pii, and to protect the white population of our common country from further
aircrrcssion.
Ill f'urtlii'rancc of this object they have deemed it their duty to make imme-
diate application to the merchants and citizens of the country for the requisite
assistance.
Though clothed with the power to pledge, to the fullest extent, the faith and
means of the present government of Oregon, they do not consider this pledge
the (inly security to those who, in this distressing emergency, may extend to the
IK'dpleof this country the means of protection and redress.
Without claiming any special authority from tlie government of the United
States to contract a debt to be liquidated by that power, yet, from all prece-
dents of like ("naractcr in the history of our country, the undersigned feel con-
fiileiit that the United States government will regard the murder of the late
Dr. Whitman and his lady, as a national wrong, and will fully justify tlie peo-
])li' of Oregon in taking active measures to obtain redress for that outrage, and
fur their jirotection from further aggression,
Tlie right of self-defence is tacitly acknowledged to every body politic in the
confederacy to which we claim to belong, and in every case similar to our own,
within our knowledge, the general government has promptly assumed the pay-
ment of all liabilities growing out of the measures taken by the constituted
authorities, to protect the lives and property of those who reside within the
limits of their districts.
If the citizens of the States and territories, east of the Rocky mountains,
arc justified in promptly acting in such emergencies, who are under the
immediate protection of the general government, there appears no room for
doubt that the lawful acts of the Oregon government will receive a like ap-
proval.
Though the Indians of the Columbia have committed a great outrage upon
our fellow citizens passing through their country, and residing among them,
430
FIIl^T llEOIMENT OF OREGON RIFLEMEN.
and their pniiishincnt for thoHo mnnUTH may, and ought to he, a prime object
with overy citi/iMi of Orc^^on, yt't, as that (hity more particularly duvolves uinm
tho govcrnmiuit of the United Stataji, and admits of delay, vro <lo not make
this the. stroni^est (ground upon whicli to found our earnest appeal to you fur
jH'cuuiiiry assistauee. It is a fact well knovn to every person ac(iuiiiiUed with
tho Indian character, that, by passinj^ silently over thoir repeated thelh, rolt-
beries, and murders of our fellow-citizens, they have been emhohleiied to llu-
commission of the appalliuj^ massacre at Waiilatpu. They cull us wonu'n,
dcstituti! of the hearts and eourajro of men, ami if we allow this whelesalu mur-
der to pass by as fonmrr aggressions, wlio can tell how long either life or prop-
erty will he secure in any ])art of this country, or what moment the Wilianietle
will be the scene of hhiod and carnage.
The officers of our provisional government have nobly performed their duty.
None can doubt th(^ ri'adiness of tho patriotic sons of the west to ofliir their
personal .services in defcucc of a cause so righteous. So it now rests 'ivith you,
gentlemen, to say whether our rights and our fire-sides shall be defended, or
not.
Hoping that none will be found to falter in so high and so .sacred a duty, we
beg leave, gentlemen, to subscribe ourselves,
Your servants and fellow-citizens, " ' '
Jk8se Appleoate,
A. L. L0VE.10Y,
Geo. L. CuuiiY,
Commissioners,
A Similar letter had been addressed to the Hudson's
Bay Company, and to the Methodist mission. From each
of these sources such assistance was obtained as enabled
the colony to arm and equip the first regiment of Oregon
riflemen, which in the month of January proceeded to the
Cay use country. The amount raised, however, was very
small, being less than five thousand dollars, and it became
imperatively necessary that the government of the United
States should be called upon to extend its aid and protec-
tion to the loyal but distressed young territory.
In view of this necessity it was resolved in the leg-
islature to send a messenger to carry the intelligence
of the massacre to Gov. Mason of California, and through
him to the commander of the United States squadron
in the Pacific, that a vessel of war might be sent into
mki;k api'ointed mkhsenoeu to the united states. 431
sacred a duty, we
tho Columbia River, and arms and ajuniunition borrowed
for the present emergency, from the nearest arsenal.
For tills duty was chosen Jesse A])plegato, Esq., a gentle-
iiiiui who combined in his character and person the ability
of tho statesman with the sagacity and strength of the
pioneer. Mr. Ai)plegate, with a small party of brave
men, set out in midwinter to cross the mountains into Cal-
ifornia, but such was the depth of snow they encountered
thiit traveling became impossible, even after abandoning
llieir horses, and they were compelled to return.
The messenger elected to proceed to the United States
was Joseph L. Meek, whoso Rocky Mountain experiences
ciniiicutly fitted him to encounter the dangers of such a
winter journey, and whose manliness, firmness, and ready
wit stood him instead of statesmanship.
On the 17th December Meek resigned his seat in the
House in order to prepare for the discharge of his duty as
messenger to the United States. On the 4th of January,
armed with his credentials from the Oregon legislature,
and bearing dispatches from that body and the Governor
to the President, he at length set out on the long and per-
ilous expedition, having for traveling companions Mr.
John Owens, and Mr. George Ebbarts — the latter having
formerly been a Rocky Mountain man, like himself
At the Dalles they found the first regiment of Oregon
Riflemen, under Major Lee, of the newly created army of
Oregon. From the reports which the Dalles Indians
brought in of the hostility of the Indians beyond the Des
Chutes River it was thought best not to proceed before
the arrival of the remainder of the army, when all the
forces would proceed at once to Waiilatpu. Owing to
various delays, the army, consisting of about five hundred
men, under Colonel Gilliam, did not reach the Dalles until
late in January, when the troops proceeded at once to the
seat of war. ^^
28
4S2
THE AliMY MAUClIii.S TO AVAIILATPlT.
The reports concerning the warlike disposition of the
Indians pi'oved to be correct. Ah-eady, the Wascopanis
or i)alles Indians had begun robbing the mission at that
jihice, Avhen Colonel Lee's arr-val among them with troops
had compelled them to return the stolen property. As
the army advanced they found that all the tribes above
the Dalles "./ere holding themselves prepared for hostilities.
At Well Springs, beyond the Des Chutes River, they were
met by a body of about six hundred Indians to whom tliey
gave battle, soon dispersing them, the superior arms and
equipments of the whites tending to render timid those
tribes yet unaccustomed to so superior an enemy. From
thence to Waiilatpu the course of the army was unob-
structed.
In the meantime the captives had been given up to the
Hudson's Bay Company, and full particulars of the massa-
cre were obtained by the army, with all the subsequeiit
abuses and atrocities sufFei-'^d by the prison.. rs. The hor-
rible details were not calculated to soften the first bitterness
of hatred which had animated the volunteers on gcino'
into the field. Nor was the appearance of an armed force
in their midst likely to allay the hostile feelings with
which other causes had inspired the Indians. Had not the
captives already been removed out of the country, no
influence, not even that of the Hudson's Bay Company,
could have prevailed to get them out of the power of their
captors then. Indeed, in order to treat with the Cay uses
in the first place, Mr. Ogden had been obliged to promise
peace to the Indians, and now they found instead of peace,
every preparation for war. However, a© the army took
no immediate action, but only j-omained in their country to
await the appearance of the commissioners appointed by
the legislature of Oregon to hold a council with the chiefs
of the various tribes, the Cayuses were forced to observi;
VTPIT.
MKKlv E8C0UTED TO THE BLUFJ MOUNTAINS.
433
lisposition of tlie
the Wascoi)anis
u^ mission at that
them with troops
11 property. As
the tribes above
red for hostilities.
River, they were
ins to whom they
iperior arras and
ider timid those
n enemy. From
army was uuob-
given up to the
ars of the massa-
1 the subsequent
on.:rs. The hor-
,h d first bitterness
iinteers on going
)f an armed force
ile feelings with
lis. Had not the
the country, no
s Bay Company,
he power of their
with the Cayuses
)liged to promise
instead of peace,
ic3 the army took
I their country to
srs appointed by
il with the chiefs
breed to observe
ho outward semblance of amity while these councils were
1 landing
Arrived at Waiilatpu, the friends and acquaintances of
lir. Whitman Avcre '-hocked to find that the remains of the
victims Avere still unburied, although a little earth had
heeii tlu'own over them. Meek, to whom, ever since his
meeting with her in the train of the fur-trader, Mrs. Whit-
man had seemed all that was noble and captivating, had
ihe melancholy satisfaction of bestowing, with others, the
last sad rite of burial upon such portions of her once fair
person as murder and the wolves had not destroyed. Some
tresses of golden hair were severed from the brow so ter-
ribly disfigured, to be given to her friends in the Walla-
met as a last and only memorial. Among the State docu-
ments at Salem, Oregon, may still be seen one of these
relics of the Waiilatpu tragedy.
Not only had Meek to discover and inter the remains of
Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, but also of his little girl,v,'ho was
hmg educated at the mission, with a daughter of his
former leader, Bridger.
This sad duty performed, he immediately set out, escorted
by a company of one hundred men under Adjutant Wil-
cox, who accompanied him as far as the foot of the Blue
Mountains. Here the companies separated, and Meek
went on his way to Washington.
434
MEETING WITH BANNACKS — WHITE LIES.
CHAPTER XXXVIII,
1848. Meek's party now consisted of himself, Ebbarts.
Owens, and four men, who being desirous of returninji: to
the States took this opportunity. Ho^" \ r, as the snow
proved to be very deep on the Blue Mountains, and the
cold severe, two of these four volunteers became discour
aged and concluded to remain at Fort Boise, where was a
small trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company. '-
In order to avoid trouble with the Indians he might
meet on the western side of the Rocky mountains. Meek
had adopted the red belt and Canadian cap of the employees
of the Hudson's Bay Company ; and to this precaution
was owing the fact of his safe passage through the coun-
try now all infected with hostility caught from the Cayuses.
About three days' travel beyond Fort Boise, the party
met a village of Bannack Indians, who at once made >var-
like demonstrations ; but on seeing Meok's costur^ie, and
receiving an invitation to hold a ' talk', desisted, and re
ceived the travelers in a friendly manner. Mcok infomied
the chief, with all the gravity which had wou for him the
name of '■'• shiam shuspima'^ among tho Civws in former
years, that he was going on the business of tho Hudson's
Bay Company to Fort Hall ; and that Thomas McKay w!».s
a day's march behind with a large trading party, and
plenty of goods. On the i^XH^ipt of this good news, the
chief ordered his braves K'* ft^^\ W-k, and permit the partv
to pass. Yet, feariiA^ the vUveption might be discovered,
8.
DEEP SNOWS THE HOUSES AHAXDONEI).
435
self, Ebbart?.
returnin^r to
as the snow
ains, and the
ame discour-
where was a
)any.
ins he might
mtains, Metk
he employees
s precaution
gh the couii-
the Cayuscs.
the party
Re made ^vllr■
costupie, and
isted, and re
ook infomed
\ for him the
v's in former
;h
s
tlioy tliought it prudent to travel day and night until they
reachi'd Fort Hall.
At this post of the Hudson's Bay Company, in charge
of Mr. Grant, they were kindly received, and stopped for
a ll'W hours of rest. Mr. Grant being absent, his wife pro-
vided lilKU'ally for the refreshment of the party, who were
fliul to find themselves even for a short interval under a
roof, beside a fire and partaking of freshly cooked food.
Hut thoy permitted themselves no unnecessary delay. Be-
Ibre xiight the}^ were once more on their Avay, though
snow had now commenced to foil afresh, rendering the
tniveling very difficult. For two days they struggled on,
iheir horses floundering in the soft drifts, until further
progress in that manner became impossible. The only al-
ternative left was to abandon their horses and proceed on
snow-shoes, which were readily constructed out of willow
sticks.
Taking only a blanket and their rifles, and leaving the
animals to find their way back to Fort Hall, the little party
pnwhed on. Meek was now on familiar ground, and the
old mountain spirit which had once enabled him to endure
hunger, cold, and fatigue without murmuring, possessed
him now. It was not without a certain sense of enjoy-
ment that he found himself reduced to the necessity of
shooting a couple of pole-cats to furnish a supper for him-
self and party. How long the enjoyment of feeling want
would have lasted is uncertain, but probably only lo-jg
enough to whet the appetite for plenty.
To such a point had the appetites of all the party been
whetted, when, after several days of scarcity and toil fol-
lo\\od by flights of emptiness and cold. Meek had the
nsirceable surprise of falling in with an old mountain com-
rade on the id(Miiical ground of mf . y a former adventure,
the head- waters of Bear River. This man, whom Meek
4;}6
PKG-LEG SMITH A MOUNTAIN' IlKVEL.
was clolightod to meet, was Peg-log Smith, one of iIk
most famous of many well-known mountain-men. He
wafj engaged in herding cattle in the valley of Thomas'
Foi'k, where the tall grass was not (juite buried under
snow, and had with him a party of ten men.
Meek was as cordially received by his former comrade
as the unbounded hospitality of UKmntain manners ren-
dered it certain he would be. A fat cow was immediately
sacrificed, which, though not buffalo meat, as in former
times it would have been, was very good beef, and fur-
nished a luxurious rej)ast to the pole-cat caters of the
last several days. Smith's car. p did not lack the domes-
tic element of women and chidren, any more than had
the trapper's camps in the flush times of the fur-trade.
Therefore, seeing that the meeting was most joyful, and
full of reminiscences of former winter camps. Smith
thought to celebrate the occasion by a grand entertain-
ment. Accordingly, after a great deal of roast beef had
been disposed of, a dance was called for, in which white
men and Indian women joined with far more mirth and
jollity than grace or ceremony. Thus passed some hours
of the night, the bearer of dispatches seizing, in true
mountain style, the passing moment's pleasure, so long as
it did not interfere with the punctilious discharge of his
duty. And to the honor of our hero be it said, nothing
was ever allowed to interfere with that.
Refreshed and provided with rations for a couple of
days, the party started on again next morning, still on
snow-shoes, and ti'aveled up Bear River to the head-waters
of Green River, crossing from the Muddy fork over to
Fort Bridgei', where they arrived very much fatigued bi
quite well in little more than three days' travel. Her.
again it was Meek's good fortune to meet with his form<
leader, Bridger, to whom lie relatetl what had befallen
^'EL.
MEETING WITH AN OLD LEADEU.
437
itli, one of the
itaiii-mon. \h
Hey of Tliomas
) buried under
;n.
brnier comrade
I manners ren-
*vas inimediatclv
,t, as in former
I beef, and fur-
it caters of the
lack the domes-
more than had
)t' the fur-trade,
lost joyful, and
■ camps, Smith
>-rand enter tain-
roast beef had
in which white
more mirth nnd
?sed some hours
seizing, in true
isure, so long as
discbarge of his
it said, nothiug
for a couple of
norning, still on
the head-waters
dy fork over to
ich liitigued but
3' travel. Here
with his former
at had bellilloii
him since turning i)ioneor. The meeting was joyful on
lioth sides, clouded oidy l)y the renienibrance of what had
brought it about, and the reflection that both had a per-
sonal wrong to avenge in bringing about the punishment
of the Cayusc murderers.
Once more Mcek's party were generously fed, and fur-
nished with such provisions as they could carry about
their persons. In addition to this, Bridger presented
thoni with four good mules, by which means the travelers
wore mounted four at a time, while the fifth took exercise
on foot ; so that by riding or walking, turn about, they
wore enabled to get on very well as far as the South Pass.
Here again for some distance the snow was very deep,
and two of their mules were lost in it. Their course lay
down the Sweetwater River, past many familiar hunting
;nul camping grounds, to the Platte Iliver. Owing to the
doe[) snows, game was very scarce, and a long day o^* toil
\\is frequently clo^^ed by a supperless sleep under shelter
of some rock or bank, with only a blanket for cover. At
Kcd Buttos they were so fortunate as to find and kill a
sinfxle buffalo, which, separated from the distant herd, was
k'ft by Providence in the path of the famished travelers.
On reaching the Platte River they found the traveling
improved, as well as the supply of game, and proc(>eded
with less difficulty as far as Fort Laramie, a tra lijig post
in charge of a French trader named Papillion. Here
aiiain fresh nndes were obtained, and the little party
treated in the most hospitable manner. In parting from
his (iutertainer. Meek was favored with this brief counsel :
" There is a village of Sioux, of about nix hundred
lodges, a hundred miles from hero. Your course will
bring you to it. Look out for yourself, and don't make
a(irn\ muss of it!" — which latter clause referred to the
1^1
438
PASSING THE SIOUX VILLAGE.
afi'air of 1837, when tho Sioux liad killed the Indian cs
cort of Mr. Gray.
When tho party arrived at Ash Hollow, which tliev
meant to have passed in the night, on account of the
Sioux village, the snow was again falling so thickly that
the party had not perceived their nearness to the villafre
until they were fairly in the midst of it. It was now no
safer to retreat than to proceed ; and after a moment's
consultation, the word was given to keep on. In truth,
Meek thought it doubtful wh( ther the Sioux would trouble
themselves to come out in such a, tempest, and if they did
80, that the blinding snow-ftill was rather in his favor.
Thus reasoning, he was forcing his mule through the
drifts as rapidly as the poor worried animal could make
its way, when a head was protruded from a lodge door,
and 'Hallo, Major!" greeted his ear in an accent not
altogethe English.
On being thus accosted, the party camo to a halt, and
Meek was invited to enter the lodge, with his friends.
His host on this occasion was a French trader named Le
Hcan, wlio, after offering the hospitalities of the lodge,
and learning who were his guests, offered to accompany
the party a few miles on its way. This he did, saying by
way cf explanation of this act of courtesy, " The Sioux
are a bad people ; I thought it best to see you safe out
of the village." Receiving the thanks of the travelers,
he turned back at night-fall, and they continued on all
night without stopping to camp, going some distance to
the south of their course before turning east again, in
order to avoid any possible pursuers.
Without further adventures, and by dint of almost con-
stant travel, the party arrived at St. Joseph, Mo., in
safety, in a little over two months, from Portland, Oregon.
Soon afterwards, when the circumstances of this journey
"the QUICKEBT TUIP YET."
139
DOcMine known, a steamboat built for the Missouri Rivor
iiado was cliristeucd the Joseph L. Meek, and bore lor a
motto, on her pilot-house, "The quickest trip yet," in
lefcrcuco both to Meek's overland journey and her own
stoaininfjf qualities.
As Meek approached the settlements, and knew that he
miHt soon be thrown into society of the highest oflicial
i^rado, and be subjected to such ordeals as he dreaded far
more than Indian fighting, or even traveling express
iKTOss a continent of snow, the subject of how he was to
boliave in these new and trying positions very frequently
(Occurred to him. lie, ;ii! r.neducated man, trained to
luoiiiitain life and maimer's, without money, or even
clothes, vrith nothing './• depen'I on but the importance of
his mission and \\\6 owu iiiother wit, he felt far more
icoenly than his careless appearance would suggest, the
ilillicnlties and awkwardness of his position.
"I thought a great deal about it," confesses the Col.
cph L. Meek of to-day, "and I finally concluded that
I had never tried to act like anybody but myself, I
would not make myself a fool by beginning to ape other
folks now. So I said, ' Joe Mv;ek you always have been,
and Joe Meek you shall remain ; go ahead, Joe Meek !' "
111 fact, it would have been rather difficult putting on
line gentleman airs, in that old worn-out hunting suit of
liis, and with not a dollar to bless himself On the con-
tiaiy, it needed just the devil-may-care temper which
natuially belonged to our hero, to carry him through the
remainder of his journey to Washington. To be hungry,
iil-cl ;d, dirty, and penniless, is sufficient in itself for the
Mibduing of most spirits ; how it affected the temper of
tlie messeiiiger from Oregon we shall now learn.
^\\\Q\\ the weary little party arrived in St. Joseph, they
repaired to a hotel, and Meek requested that a monj
Ml
410
IfKCKl'TKKV AT ST, JOSKIMF.
sliould be served for ,'iil, but fViinkly coiifossiiif^ that tluv
had no money to pny. Tlie Uindlord, however, declincil
fiiniisliing guests of hia style upon sueh terms, and our
travelers were forced to go into eamp below the town
Meek now bethought himself of his letters of introduc-
tion. Jt chanced that he had one from two youno' hkh
among the Oregon volunteers, to their father in St. Jo-
seph. Stopping a negro who was passing his camp, lie
in(|uired whether such a gentleman was known to him;
and on learning that he was, succeeded in inducing tlio
ncin'o to deliver the letter from his sons.
Tliis movement proved successful. In a short space of
time the gentleman presented himself, and learning the
situation of the party, provided generously for their pros-
ent wants, and promised any assistance which might be
re(piired in future. Meek, however, chose to accept only
that which was imperatively ne(Kled, namely, something
to eat, and transportation to some point on the river
Avhere he could take a steamer for St. Louis. A portion
of his party chose to remain in St. Joseph, and a portion
accompanied him as far as Independence, whither tlii-^
same St. Joseph gentleman conveyed them in his carriage.
While Meek was stopping at Independence, he was
recognized by a sister, whom he had not seen for nineteen
years ; who, marrying and emigrating from Virginia, had
settled c the frontier of Missouri. But ho gave himself
no time \ n' (hnilly reunion and gossip. A steamboat that
had been /rozen Up In the ice all winter, was just about
starting for St. Ltinis^ and on board of this he went, witli
nn introduction to the captain, which secured for him
every privilege the lioat afforded, together with the kind
est attention of its officers.
AVhen the steamer arrived in St. Louis, by one of those
Ibrtuitoiis circumstances so common in our hero's career,
ARRIVAL AT ST. LOUIS.
441
h,. WIS met ;it tho lan(liii<r l)y Campbo]], a Ilocky Moun-
i;iiu tnider who had lonnerly boh)iiged to tho St. Jjonis
Coiiipany. This niootinj^- relieved him of any care ahoiii
liis iiiii:iif'.i entertainment in St. Louis, and it also had an-
other on'eet — that of relieving him of any further care.'
lijioiit tlie remainder of his journey ; for. after hearing
Meek's story of the position of afiairs in Oregon and his
crraiul to the United States, Campbell had given the
Mime to the newspaper reporters, and Meek, like Byron,
Wiikod up next morning to lind himself famous.
ilaviug telegraphed to Washington, and roeeivcd tho
I'rcsidcut's order to eome on, the previous evcjiiir.g, our
liero woiuled his way to the levee the morning after his
:,IEEK AS STEAMBOAT UUXNICK.
arrival in St. Louis. There were two steamers lying side
l»y side, both up for Pittsburg, with runners for each,
--"'titi
442
TUE VOLUNTEER BTEAMHOAT UUNXEU.
striviiif^ to outdo each other in securing passengers. .\
bright tliought occurred to the moneyless envoy— ho
would earn his pa.ssage !
Walking on board one of the boats, which boro tlie
name of The Deidaration^ himself a figure which attracted
all eyes by his size and outlandish dress, he mounted to
the hurricane deck and began to harrangue the crowd
upon the levee, in the voice of a Stentor :
" This way, gentlemen, if you please. Come right on
boaj'd the Declaration. I am the man from Oregon, with
dispatches to the President of these United States, that
you all read about in this morning's paper. Come on
board, ladies and gentlemen, if you want to hear the news
from Oregon. I've just come across the plains, two
months from the Columbia River, where the Injuns are
killing your missionaries. Those p??ssengers who come
aboard the Declaration shall hear all about it before tliey
get to Pittsburg. Don't stop thar, looking at my old
wolf-ikin cjip, but just come aboard, and hear what I've
got to tell!" ' ! vv
The novelty of this sort of solicitation operated cap-
itally. Many persons crowded on board the Declaration
only to get a closer look at this picturesque personage
who invited them, and many more because they were re-
ally interested to know the news from the far off young
territory which had fallen into trouble. So it chanced
that the Declaration was inconveniently crowded on this
particular morning.
After the boat had got under way, the captain ajh
proached his roughest looking cabin passenger and in-'
quired in a low tone of voice if he were really and truly
the messenger from Oregon.
" Thar's what I've got to show for it ;" answered Meek,
producing his papers. .!,Vci'
THK 8TA(iE AGENT AT WIIKKMNG.
44 :t
" Well, all I have to say is, Mr. Mt;uk, that you arc the
best niiiuer this boat ever had ; and you are welcome to
your passage ticket, aiul anything you desire bijsides."
Fiiidiiig that his bright thought liad succiieded so wt;!!,
Mei'lv'ri s[)irit rose with the occasion, and tiie passengers
had no ri-ason to com])lain that he had not kept his woid.
Ik'Iore lie reached Wheeling his popularity was immense,
notwithstanding the condition of his wardrobe. At Cin-
cinnati he had time to present a letter to the celebrated
Doctor , who gave him another, which proved to be
an 'open sesame' wherever he went thereafter.
On the morning of his arrival in Wheeling it happened
that the stage which then carried passengers to Cumber-
liuul, wlierc they took the train for Washington, had al-
ready departed. Elated by his previous good fortune our
ragged hero resolved not to be delayed by so trivial a
circumstance ; but walking pompously into the stage office
inquired, with an air which must have smacked strongly
of the mock-heroic, if he " could have a stage for Cum-
berland?"
The nicely dressed, dignified elderly gentleman who
managed the business of the office, regarded the man who
proffered this modest request for a moment in motionless
silence, then slowly raising the spectacles over his eyes to
a position on his forehead, finished his survey with unas-
sisted vision. Somewhat impressed by the manner in
> liich Meek bore this scrutiny, he ended by demanding
' who are you ?"
Tickled by the absurdity of the tableau they were en-
acting. Meek straightened himself up to his six feet two,
and replied with an air of superb self assurance —
"■ I am Fnvoy extraordinary and minister plenipotenti-
ary from the Rr^public of Oregon to the Court of the
United States!"
h
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)
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1.25
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2.0
1.8
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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 872-4503
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s
^
i
^
^
%'
6^
444
MEEK ASTONISHES THE NATIVES,
After a pause in which the old gentleman seemed to be
recovering from some great surprise, he requested to see
tlic credentials of this extraordinary envoy. Still more
surprised he seemed on discovering for himself that the
personage before hira was really a messenger from Orejjon
to the government of the United States. But the effect
was magical. In a moment the bell- rope was pulled, and
in an incredibly short space of time a coach stood at the
door ready to convey the waiting messenger on his way
to Washington. i ^ .• .'U;
In the meantime in a conversation with the stage agent,
Meek had explained more fully the circumstances of his
mission, and the agent had become much interested. On
parting. Meek received a ticket to the Ilelay House, with
many expressions of regret from the agent that he could
ticket him no farther.
" But it is all the same," said he ; " you are sure to go
through."
" Or run a train off the track," rejoined Meek, as he
was bowed out of the office.
It happened that there were some other passengers
waiting to take the first stage, and they crowded into this
one, glad of the unexpected opportunity, but wondering
at the queer looking passenger to v/hom the agent was so
polite. This scarcely concealed curiosity was all that was
needed to stimulate the mad-cap spirits of our so far "con-
quering hero." Putting his head out of the window just
at the moment of starting, he electrified everybody,
horses included, by the utterance of a war-whoop and yell
that would have done credit to a wild Camanche. Satis
fied with the speed to which this demoniac noise had ex-
cited the driver's prancing steeds, ho quietly ensconced
himself in his corner of the coach and waited for his fel-
low passengers to recover from their stunned sensations.
THE VICXmiZED CONDLCTOIl.
445
When their complete recovery had been eflected, there
followoil the UHual questioning and exphmations, which
ended in the inevitable lionizing that was so much to the
niste of this sensational individual.
On the cars at Cumberland, and at the eating-houses,
the messenger from Oregon kept up his sensational char-
acter, indulging in alternate fits of mountain manners, and
asrain assuming a disproportionate amount of grandeur ;
biil in cither view proving himself very amusing. By the
time the train reached the Relay House, many of the pas-
sengers had become acquainted with Meek, and were pre-
pared to understand and enjoy each new phase of his
many-sided comicality. - ^ >
The ticket with which the stage agent presented him,
(lead headed him only to this point. Here again he must
make his poverty a jest, and joke himself through to
\\'^ashiiigton. Accordingly when the conductor came
tlironiih the car in which he, with several of his new
ac4uaintances were sitting, demanding tickets, he was
obliged to tap his blanketed passenger on the shoulder
to attract his attention to the "ticket, sir!"
'' JLi ko any me ca^ hanrhf^ said Meek, starting up
and tuldressing him in the Snake tongue.
"Ticket, sir!" repeated the conductor, staring.
'■ Ka hum jJci^ hanch ?" returned Meek, assuming a look
wliicli indicated that English Avas as puzzling to him, as
Snake to other people.
Finding that his time would be wasted on this singular
passenger, the conductor went on through the train ; re-
turning after a time with a fresh demand for his ticket.
But Meek sustained his character admirably, and it was
only through the excessive amusement of the passengers
that the conductor suspected that he was being made the
i^ubject of a practical joke. At this stage of aifairs it was
, i»,
446
ARRIVAL AT WASHINGTON
privately explained to him who and what his waggish cus-
tomer was, and tickets were no more mentioned durinir
the journey.
On the arrival of the train at Washington, the heart of
our hero became for a brief moment of time " very little,"
He felt that the importance of his mission demanded some
dignity of appearance — some conformity to establislied
rules and precedents. But of the latter he knew abso-
lutely nothing ; and concerning the former, he realized
the absurdity of a dignitary clothed in blankets and a
wolf-skin cap. ' Joe Meek I must remain,' said he to him-
self, as he stepped out of the train, and glanced along the
platform at the crowd of porters with the names of their
hotels on their hat-bands. Learning from inquiry that
Coleman's was the most fashionable place, he decided that
to Coleman's he would go, judging correctly that it was
best to show no littleness of heart even in the matter af
hotels.
i ".
1
1
1
1
in
5
1
\
k ■:,;:
M. ?;.(... • v;i-' •''.-: >■>! : ■ ■ -^ . ;•
w
THE DWNER AT COLEMAN a
447
CHAPTER XXXIX.
1848. When Meek arrived at Coleman's it "was the
dinner hour, and following the crowd to the dining saloon,
he took the first seat he came to, not without being very
much stared at. He had taken his cue and the staring
was not unexpected, consequently not so embarrassing as
it might otherwise have been. A bill of fare was laid be-
side his plate. Turning to the colored waiter who placed
it there, he startled him first by inquiring in a low growl-
.-.•,<
mg voice —
V- 4^?<*-
" What's that boy?" v^ri
"Bill of fare, sah," replied the "boy," who recognized
the Southerner in the use of that one word.
"Read!" growled Meek again. "The people in my
country can't read."
Though taken by surprise, the waiter, politely obedient,
proceeded to enumerate the courses on the bill of fare.
When he came to game
"Stop thar, boy!" commanded Meek, "what kind of
game?"
"Small game, sah."
" Fetch me a piece of antelope," leaning back in his
chair with a look of satisfaction on his face.
" Got none of that sah ; don't know what that ar' sah."
" Doa't know !" with a look of pretended surprise. "In
my country antelope and deer ar' small game ; bear and
buffalo ar' large game. I reckon if you haven't got one,
29
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%
i t^ j
i
^s
\
1
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418
THE MESSENGER CREATES A SENSATION.
you havn't got the other, either. In that case you may
fetch me some beef."
The waiter disappeared grinning, and soon returned with
the customary thin and small cit, which Meek eyed at first
contemptuously, and then accepting it iij the light of a
sample swallowed it at two mouthfuls, returning bis plate
to the waiter with an approving smile, and saying loud
enough to be overheard by a score of people
" Boy, that will do. Fetch mc about four pounds of the
same kind." - .
By this time the blanketed beef-eater was the recipient
of general attention, and the "boy" who served him com-
prehending with that quickness which distinguishes ser-
vants, that he had no ordinary backwoodsman to deal with,
was all the time on the alert to make himself useful. Peo-
ple stared, then smiled, then asked each other " who is it?"
loud enough for the stranger to hear. Meek looked nei-
ther to the right nor to the left, pretending not to hear
the whispering. When he had finished his beef, he again
addressed himself to the attentive "boy."
" That's better meat than the old mule I eat in the moun-
tains."
Upon this remark the whispering became more general,
and louder, and smiles more frequent.
" What have you got to drink, boy?" continued Meek,
still unconscious. " Isn't there a sort of wine called—
some kind of ;pain ?"
" Champagne, sah ?"
" That's the stuff, I reckon ; bring me some."
While Meek drank his champagne, with an occasional
aside to his faithful attendant, people laughed and won-
dered " who the devil it was." At length, having finished
his wine, and overhearing many open inquiries as to his
identity, the hero of many bear-fights slowly arose, and
1^,
RECOGXIZEI) HV SENATOR UNDERWOOD.
449
;ase you may
jat in the moun-
addrcssing the company through the before-mentioucd
" boy," said :
" You want to know who I am ?"
" If you please, sah ; yes, if you please, sah, for the
sake of these gentlemen present," replied the "boy," an-
swering for the company.
"Wall then," proclaimed Meek with a grandiloquent
air quite at variance with his blanket coat and unkempt
hair, yet which displayed his fine person to advantage, "I
am Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary from
the Republic of Oregon to the Court of the tjnited
States!"
With that he turned and strode from the room. He
had not proceeded far, however, before he was overtaken
by a party of gentlemen in pursuit. Senator Underwood
of Kentucky immediately introduced himself, calling the
envoy by name, for the dispatch from St. Louis had pre-
pared the President and the Senate for Meek's appearance
in Washington, though it had not advised them of his
style of dress and address. Other gentlemen were intro-
duced, and questions followed questions in rapid succes-
sion.
When curiosity was somewhat abated, Meek expressed
a wish to see the President without delay. To Under-
wood's question as to whether he did not wish to make his
toilet before visiting the White House, his reply was,
"business first, and toilet afterwards."
"But," said Underwood, "even your business can wait
long enough for that."
"No, that's your mistake. Senator, and I'll tell you why:
I can't dress, for two reasons, both good ones. I've not
got a cent of money, nor a second suit of clothes."
The generous Kentuckian offered to remove the first of
v: /:,
f,< i- m
450
VISIT TO THE WHITE HOUSE.
tijj
the ()l)jcctions on the spot, but Mock dc(.'lincd. "I'll see
tlio President first, and hear what he has to say about my
mission." Then calling a coach from the stand, he sprang
into it, answering the driver's question of where he would
be taken, with another inquiry.
"Whar should a man of wy style want to go? — to the
White House, of course !" and so was driven away amid
the general laughter of the gentlemen in the portico at
Coleman's, who had rather doubted his intention to pay
his respects to the President in his dirty blankets.
He wim admitted to the Presidential mansion by a mu-
latto of about his own age, with whom he remembered
playing when a lad, for it must be remembered that the
Meeks and Polks were related, and this servant had grown
up in the family. On inquiring if he could see the Presi-
dent, he was directed to the office of the private Secretary,
Knox Walker, also a relative of Meek's on the mothers
side.
On entering he found the room filled with gentlemen
waiting to see the President, each when his turn to be ad-
mitted should arrive. The Secretary sat reading a paper,
over the top of which he glanced but once at the new
comer, to ask him to be seated. But Meek was not in the
humor for sitting. He had not traveled express for more
than two months, in storm and cold, on foot and on horse-
back, by day and by night, with or without food, as it
chanced, to sit down quietly now and wait. So he took a
few turns up and down the room, and seeing that the
Secretary glanced at him a little curiously, stopped and
Sjaid:
' "I should like to see the President immediately. Just
tell him if you please that there is a gentleman from Ore-
gon waiting to see him on very important business."
•• ^i»..t.<r ^:'Xf iioi.)q'.' •; . .,
INTKUVIKW WITH PRESIDENT POLK.
451
At the word Onyon, the Secretary sprang up, dashed
hiri piifmr to the ground, and crying out "Uncle Joe!"
ciunc forward with botli hands extended to ijrrect his louir
lost rehitive,
"Take care, Knox! don't come too close," said Meek
stopping back, "I'm ragged, dirty, and — lousy."
4
t
"TAKE CARE, KNOX."
But Walker seized his cousin's hand, without seeming
feiu- of the consequences, and for a few moments there
was an animated exchange of questions and answers, which
Meek at last interrupted to repeat his request to be admit-
ted to the President without delay. Several times the Sec-
retary turned to leave the room, but as often came back
with some fresh inquiry, until Meek fairly refused to say
another word, until he had delivered his dispatches.
When once the Secretary got away he soon returned
v.ith a request from the President for the appearance of
t!ie Oregon messenger, all other visitors being dismissed
for that day. Polk's reception proved as cordial as Wtilk-
■11
■fe=
'1
't^,-k
t
452 INTRODUCED TO THE LADIES BADLY FUIGIITENED.
I'
er's had been. lie seized the hand of his newly found
relative, and welcomed him in his own name, as well as
that of messenger from the distant, much loved, and lour
neglected Oregon. The interview lasted for a couple of
hours. Oregon affairs and family allairs were talked over
together; the President promising to do all for Oregon
that he could do ; at the same time he bade Meek make
himself at home in the rresidential mansion, with true
southern hospitality.
But Meek, although he had carried off his poverty and
all his deficiencies in so brave a style hitherto, felt his as-
surance leaving him, when, his errand performed, he stood-
in the presence of rank and elegance, a mere mountain-
man in ragged blankets, whose only wealth consisted of
an order for five hundred dollars on the Methodist mission
in New York, unavailable for present emergencies. And
so he declined the hospitalities of the White House, say
ing he "could make himself at home in an Indian wigwam
in Oregon, or among the Rocky Mountains, but in the
residence of the chief magistrate of a great nation, he felt
out of place, and ill at ease." > r
Polk, however, would listen to no refusal, and still fnr
ther abashed his Oregon cousin by sending for Mrs. Polk
and Mrs. Walker, to make his acquaintance. Says Meek:
"When I heard the silks rustling in the passage, I felt
more frightened than if a hundred Plackfeet had whooped
in my ear. A mist came over my eyes, and when Mrs.
Polk spoke to me I couldn't think of anything to say in
return."
But the ladies were so kind and courteous that he soon
began to see a little, though not quite plainly while their
visit lasted. Before the interview with the President and
his family was ended, the poverty of the Oregon envoy
became known, which led to the immediate supplying of
UIGIITENEn.
THE TWO OREGON REPRESENTATrVES.
453
all his wants. Major Polk was called in and introduced;
and to him was deputed the business of seeiiip^ Meek
''ffot up" in a style creditable to himself und his relations.
Mcok avers that when ho had gone through the hands of
tliohiirber and tailor, and surveyed himself in a full length
mirror, he was at first rather embarrass(!d, Ixnng under the
imi)rossion that he was being introduced to a fasliionablo
and decidedly good-looking gentleman, before whose over.
j)()\vcriiig style ho w.as disposed to shrink, with the old fa-
miliar feeling of being in blankets.
But Meek was not the sort of man to be long in getting
used to a situation however novel or difficult. In a very
short time he was au fait in the customs of the capital.
His perfect frankness led people to laugh at his errors as
eccentricities ; his good looks and natural hunhomie pro-
cured him plenty of admirers ; while his position at the
White House caused him to be envied and lionized at
once.
On the day following his arrival the President sent in a
message to Congress accompanied by the memorial from
the Oregon legislature and other documents appertaining
to the Oregon cause. Meek was introduced to Benton,
Oregon's indefatigable friend, and received from him the
kindest treatment; also to Dallas, President of the Senate;
Donglas, Fremont, Gen. Houston, and all the men who
had identified themselves with the interests of the West.
It will be remembered that only a short time previous
to the Waiilatpu massacre a delegate had left Oregon for
Washington, by ship around Cape Horn, who had been
accredited by the governor of the colony only, and that
the legislature had subsequently passed resolutions expres-
sive of their disapproval of "secret factions," by which
was meant the mission party, whose delegate Mr. Thorn-
ton was.
if
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454
THE OllLUON DILL IN TlIK SENATE.
It so linpponcd that, by reason of the commander oftlie
Porisiaonth having assumod it to be a duty to convey Mr.
Tlioniton IVop- La I'az, whero through thi; iiifidoHty of tlio
Captain of the Whitto)i, ho was stranded, ho was eimLled
to roach tho States ourly in the Spring, arriving in fucta
week or two before Mock readied Wasliington. Thus
Oregon liad tv/o reprcscntativoH, although not outidcd to
any : nor liad either a right to a seat in cither House; yet
to one this courtesy was granted, while the two togctlior
controlled more powerful influences than were ever before
or since brought to boar on the fate of any single terri-
tory of tho United States. While Mr. Thornton sat air'^ig
Senators as a sort of consulting member or referee, but
without a vote; Meek had the private ear of the Presi-
dent, and mingled freely among members of both Houses,
in a social character, thereby exercising a more immediate
influence than his more learned coadjutor. Happily their
aims were not dissimilar, although their characters were;
and the proper and prudish mission delegate, though he
might often be shocked by the private follies of the legis-
lative messenger from Oregon, could find no fault with the
manner in which he discl.cirged his duty to their common
country.
The bill to admit Oregon as a territory which had been
so long before Congress, and failed only because certain
southern Senators insisted on an amendment allowing slave
property to be introduced into that territory, was again
under discussion in the Senate. The following extract
from a speech of Benton's, delivered May 31st, before the
Senate, shows how his energies were taxed in support of
the Oregon cause — a cause which he had fostered from its
infancy, and which he never deserted until • his efforts to
extend the United States government t" <he Pacific Ocean
were crowned with success: — ->« >-- jp^
EXTllACT I UOM HENTON 8 OIIEOON SPEECH.
455
sliiii'Moii. Thus
» Only flirco or four yciirs a^o, the wbolo Unitt^d Stiitcs H»!einn(I to lie in-
llaiiiitl with a ilcsirc lo ^ot ponsiicsion of ()n';^oii. It wan one of tht^ al)Ki»iliin;r
;iiii| ii;.'iliiliiit; niu'stioii!* of tins foiitiiicnt. To otitain oxcln^ivt? po.s-ti'snioii of
Ore;.'!"', tl"' t^rcaft'Kt I'llbrts woro inadu, and it was at lun^di ob'aiiu'd. Wluit
next? Alb'r tills nctiial occupation of tlic entire continent, and liavin;; thus
(i|ilaiiu'<l exchi.-.ve po8m'^^sion of On-gon in oi'ih-r that we inii.dil (iuvern it, we
have seen Kes.sion atler feHsiou of Coni^ress pass away witluiut a single thin^f
licin;; <1"'>*' '"f t'^^' k"*'"""'"^'"* o* •* country, to obtain posgession of which wo
Wire williii},' to fio to war with Kn^dand I
Year after year, and Hessinn alter «e.sHion have gum by, and to this day tho
laws of the United States have not b'jen extendw' o.er that Territory. In tlio
mean lime, a j^reat connnnnity is (j;rowin^ up ( ere, ( 'njKised fit Uiis time of
twelve tliousand souls — persons from all parn. of the worM, from Asia as well
thmi Europe and America — and whieh, till this time, have been jireserved
ill order by comi)act amon}>; tiieinsclves. fireat eilbris have been nlallt^ to pre-
serve order — most meritorious elForts, which haM' evinced their anxiety to
maintain their own reputation and that of the country to which they bilonjj;.
Tlitir elfurts have been eminently nieritoriou« ; but we all know that voluntary
oiivcrnments cannot last — that they are temporary in their very nature, and
inii.4 eneoimter rude shocks and resistance, untler which they must fall, lie-
siilcs the inconvenience resultin*? from the absence of an or^^anized {government,
we are to rcciollect that there never y»'.t has been a civili7,e<l settlement in terri-
tiiry occupietl l)y the aboriginal inhabitants, in which a war between the rJK'cs
has not occurred. Down to the present moment, the settlers in Oregon had
e«caped a conflict witJi the Indians. Now the war between them is breaking
out ; and I cannot resist the conviction, that if tliere had been a regularly or-
(.'anized government in that country, innnediately after the treaty with Great
Britain, with a military force to sustain it, — for a government in such ,. region,
fo nmote, would bo nothing without military force, — the calamities now im-
pomliag over that country might have been averted.
But no government was established; and now all these evils arc coming
upon these people, as everybody muat liave foreseen thoy would come ; and in
tlie depih of wlmer, they send to us a special messenger, who makes his way
across the Rocky Mountains at a time when almost every living thing perished
in the snow- -when the snow was at such a depth that nothing could penetrate
ti) tlie bottom of it. lie made his way across, however, and brings these com-
plaints which wo now hear. They arc in a suflfering condition. Not a moment
of time is to be lost. If the bill were passed this instant, — this morning, as
I hoped it would be, — it would require tho utmost degree of vigor in the execu-
tion of it to be able to send troops across tho ivocky Mountains before the sea-
son of dctep snow. They sliould cross the mountains before the month of Sep-
tember. I waa in hopes then, that on this occasion, there would be nothing to
delay action — that we shoidd all have united in deploring that for yciirs the
proposition to give these people govcrimient .ind laws has been defeated by the
introduction of a question of no practical consequenco, but which has had tho
I,
i I I' ^'
•-Vf-.fy-f •
456
EXTRACT FROM BENTON S OREGON SPEECH.
effect of depriving these people of all government, and bringing about the
nias.'sacrcs which have taken place, and in which the benevolent missionary has
Ikllen in the midst of his labors. All the calamities which have taken nlace in
that country have resulted from mixing up this (juestion, which has not a par-
tide of practical value, with all the measures which have been introduced for
the organization of a government in Oregon. All the laws passed by tlie Con-
gress of the United States can have no effect on the question of slavery there.
In that country there is a law superior to any which Congress can jjass on the
sul)ject of slavery. Tliere is a law of climate, of position, and of Nature her-
self, against it. Besides, the people of the country itself, by far the larwest
ninnber of whom have gone out from slave-holding States, many of them from
the State of Missouri, in their organic law, communicated to Congress more
than a year ago, and printed among our documents at the last session, declare
that the law of nature is against slavery in that region. Who would think of
carrying slaves to the Lake of the Woods ? and what would anybody think of
a law of Congress which should say that slavery should or should not exist
there ? I was in hopes, then, that this bill would be allowed to pass throuch
this morning. And it was in order to avoid any delay that I did not make a
separate bill to raise the regiments necessary to sustain the government tliere,
I did hope, that on this occasion — when a great political measure of the highest
importance is pending, which has been delayed for years, and which delay has
brought on the massacres of which we now hear — this question, which has
already produced these calamities, would not have been introduced, and that
some other ojiportunity would have been taken for its discussion. Tliere will
be opportunities enough for its discussion. Tlie doors of legislation are open
to it as a separate measure. I trust, even now. that this question will not be
permitted to delay our action. The delay of a few days here will be the delay
of a year in Oregon. Delay at all now, is delay not for a week or a month, but
for a year, during all which time these calamities will continue.
With respect to the question itself, I am ready to meet it in every shape and
form. Let me here say, that no gentleman on this floor must assume to be the
representative of the fifteen slave-holding States. I assume to represent one-
no more than one — and if I can satisfy my constituents, my duty is performed.
I invade no gentleman's bailiwick, and no one shall invade mine. Let every one
speak for himself. Tins Federal Government was made for something else
than to have this pestiferous question constantly thrust upon us to the interrup-
tion of the most important business. I am willing to vote down this question
at this moment ; I am willing to take it up and act upon it in all its extent and
bearings, at the proper time, when its consideration will not interrupt andj
destroy important measures. What I protest against is, to have the real busi-
ness of the country — the pressing, urgent, crying business of the country-
stopped, prostrated, defeated, by thrusting this tjuestion ujtou us. Wc read in
Holy Writ, that a certain people were cursed by the plague of frogs, and that
the plague was everywhere, You could Dot look upon the table but there were
WASHINGTON SOCIETY CURIOSITY OP LADIES.
457
fioTS ; you could not sit down at the banquet but there were frogs ; you could
not I'D to the bridal couch and lift the sheets but there were frogs I We can
ftx nothing, touch nothing, have no mesisures proposed, without having this
lu'stilc'iKi' thrust before us. Here it is, this black (picstion, forever on the
t;il)lo, nil tlic nuptial couch — everywhere ! So it was nui in tlie better days of
tilt; K('pnl)]ic. I remember the time when no one would have thought of ask-
iiiir a public man what his views were on the extension of slavery, any more
than what was the length of his foot ; and those were happy days which, al-
tliuujrh gone by, arc remembered, and may, perhaps, be brought back.
We ought to vote down this amendment as a thing which should not bo
allowed to interrupt our action. Our action should not be delayed a single
moniont. This cruel war, which cannot continue in Oregon without extending
to California, must be stopped without delay. Oregon and California must be
sued from the desolation of an Indian war. Whatever opinions may be en-
tiitaincd ii])on the subject of sliivery, let us agree on this point, that we will
give law and government to the people of Oregon, and stop, if we can, the
progress of this Indian war." . ' '' " ■■ •— • ; j-/ -.- ^u; ^ . "f'tv
This was the tone which the friends of Oregon pre-
served through that last session of Congress in which the
Oregon bill was under discussion. -- - •^
In the meantime our hero was making the most of his
advantages. He went to dinners and champagne suppers,
besides giving an occasional one of the latter. At the
presidential levees he made himself agreeable to witty and
distinguished ladies, answering innumerable questions
about Oregon and Indians, generally with a veil of reserve
between himself and the questioner whenever the inqui-
rio;] became, as they sometimes would, disagreeably search-
in,;, Again the spirit of perversity and mischief led him
t(i make his answers so very direct as to startle or bewilder
the questioner.
On one occasion a lady with whom he was promenading
a drawing-room at some Senator's reception, admiring his
handsome physique perhaps, and wondering if any woman
owned it, finally ventured the question — was he married ?
"Yes, indeed," answered Meek, with emphasis, "I have
a wife and several childrep.,." ,,, , ,,
458
KIT CARSON THE CONTINGENT FUND.
"Oh dear," exclaimed the lady, " I should think your
wife would be so afraid of the Indians!"
"Afraid of the Indians!" exclaimed Meek in his turn'
" why, madam, she is an Indian herself!"
No further remarks on the subject were ventured that
evening ; ai.'d it is doubtful if the lady did not take liis
answer as a rebuke to her curiosity rather than the plain
truth that it was.
Meek found his old comrade, Kit Carson, in Washington,
staying with Fremont at the house of Senator Benton.
Kit, ^vho had left the mountains as poor as any other of
the mountain-men, had no resource at that time except
the pay furnished by Fremont for his services as guide and
explorer in the California and Oregon expeditions; where,
in fact, it was Carson and not Fremont who deserved fame
as a path-finder. However that may be, Carson had as
little money as men of his class usually have, and needed
it as much. So long as Meck's purse was supplied, as it
generally was, by some member of the family at the White
House, Carson could borrow from him. But one being
quite as careless of money as the other, they were some-
times both out of pocket at the same time. In that case
the conversation was apt to take a turn like this :
Carson. Meek, let me have some money, can't you?
Meek I hav 'nt got any money. Kit.
Carson. Go and get some.
Meek. it, whar am I to get money from?
Carson. Try the "contingent fund," can't you?
Truth to tell the contingent fund was made to pay for
a good many things not properly chargeable to the neces-
sary expenditures of "Envoy Extraordinary" like our
friend from Oregon.
The favoritism with which our hero was everywhere re-
ceived was something remarkable, even when all the cir-
^^^m
GRAND RECEPTION AT BALTIMORE.
459
cumstanccs of his relationsliip to the chief magistrate, and
the popuharity of the Oregon question were considered.
Doubtless the novelty of having a bear-fighting and In-
dian-fighting Rocky Mountain man to lionize, was one
great secret of the furore which greeted him wherever he
ivent ; but even that fails to account fully for the enthu-
siasm he awakened, since mountain-men had begun to be
pretty well known and understood, from the journal of
Fremont and other explorers. It could only have been
the social genius of the man which enabled him to over-
come the impediments of lack of education, and the asso-
ciations of half a lifetime. But whatever was the fortu-
nate cause of his success, he enjoyed it to the full. Vie
took excursions about the country in all directions,
petted and spoiled like any "curled darling" instead of
the six-foot-two Rocky Mountain trapper that he was.
Ill June he received an invitation to Baltimore, tender-
ed by the city council, and was received by that body
with the mayor at its head, in whose carriage he was con-
veyed to Monument Square, to be welcomed by a thou-
sand ladies, smiling and showering roses upon him as he
passed. And kissing the roses because he could not kiss
the ladies, he bowed and smiled himself past the festive
groups waiting to receive the messenger from Oregon.
Music, dining, and the parade usual to such occasions
distinguished this day, which Meek declares to have been
the proudest of his life ; not denying that the beauty of
the Baltimore ladies contributed chiefly to produce that
impression.
On the fourth of July, Polk laid the corner stone of the
National Monument. The occasion was celebrated with
great eclat^ the address being delivered by Winthrop, the
military display, and the fire-works in the evening being
unusually fine. In the procession General Scott and staff
1f^
t n
r,'t •-^T'-.."''-i ..'.'"TV- -;T^'-r^'-v
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460 THE LOWELL FACTORY GIRLS NATURAL REGRETS.
rode on one side of the President's carriage, Col. May and
Meek on the other, — Meek making a great display of
horsemanship, in which as a mountain-man he excelled.
A little later in the summer Meek joined a party of Con-
gressmen who were making campaign speeches in the
principal cities of the north. At Lowell, Mass., he visited
the cotton factories, and was equally surprised at the ex-
tent of the works, and the number of young women em-
ployed in them. Seeing this, the forewoman requested
him to stop until noon and see the girls come out. As
they passed in review before him, she asked if he had
made his choice.
"No," replied the gallant Oregonian, " it would be im-
possible to choose, out of such a lot as that ; I should have
to take them all."
If our hero, under all his gaity smothered a sigh of re-
gret that he was not at liberty to take one — a woman like
those with whom for the first time in his life he was privi-
leged to associate — who shall blame him ? The kind of
life he was living now was something totally different to
anything in the past. It opened to his comprehension
delightful possibilities of what might have been done and
enjoyed under other circumstances, yet which now never
could be done or enjoyed, until sometimes he was rea^^
to fly from all these allurements, and hide himself again
in th'3 Rocky Mountains. Then again by a desperate eiFort,
such thoughts were banished, and he rushed more eagerly
than before into every pleasure afforded by the present
moment, as if to make the present atone for the past and
the future.
The kindness of the ladies at the White House, while it
was something to be grateful for, as well as to make him
envied, often had the effect to disturb his tranquility by
the suggestions it gave rise to. Yet he was always de-
1'
REGRETS.
..•' I ; ^ ' 1^ -1. i'f ^ ■:'.- , j v'
M^\
Col. May and
at display of
le excelled.
L party of Con-
seches in the
Lss., he visited
ed at the ex-
g women ein-
lan requested
oine out. As
icd if he had
would be im-
I should have
. a sigh of re-
-a woman hke
he was privi-
The kind of
ly different to
omprehension
)€en done and
:;h now never
he was rea^
himself again
sperate effort,
more eagerly
ly the present
• the past and
ouse, while it
I to make him
tranquility by
as always de-
COMMODORE WILKES-
-" OREGON LIES."
4G1
maridiiiK i^ always accepting it. So constantly was he
the attendant of his lady cousins in public and in private,
riding and driving, or sauntering in the gardens of the
presidential mansion, that the less favored among their
aquaintances felt called upon to believe themselves ag-
irrieved. Often, as the tall form of our hero was seen
with a lady on either arm promenading the gardens at
evening, the question would pass among the curious but
uninitiated — " Who is that '?" And the reply of some
jealous grumbler would be — "It is that Rocky
Mountain man," so loud sometimes as to be overheard by
the careless trio, who smothercfll a laugh behind a hat or
a fin. ■ ..:■ .'■ '■ ."' - : - '
And so passed that brief summer of our hero's life. A
great deal of experience, of sight-seeing, and enjoyment
had been crowded into a short few months of time. He
had been introduced to and taken by the hand by the
most celebrated men of the day. Nor had he failed to
meet with men whom he had known in the mountains and
in Oregon. His old employer, Wilkes, who was ill in
Washington, sent for him to come and tell " some of those
Oregon lies" for his amusement, and Meek, to humor him,
stretched some of his good stories to the most wonderful
dimensions.
But from the very nature of the enjoyment it could not
last long ; it was too vivid and sensational for constant
wear. Feeling this, he began to weary of Washington,
and more particularly since he had for the last few weeks
been stopping away from the White House. In one of his
restless moods he paid a visit to Polk, who detecting the
state of his mind asked laughingly .,
"Well, Meek, what do you want now?" •
" I want to be franked." ' -
*' How long will five hundred dollars last you ?"
hV,
< ^
462
EXTRAVAGANT HABITS.
"About as many days as there ar' hundreds, I reckon."
" You are shockingly extravagant, Meek. Where do
you think all this money is to come from ?"
" It is not my business to know, Mr. President," replied
Meek, laughing, " but it is the business of these United
States to pay the expenses of the messenger from Oregon
isn't it ?"
" I think I will send you to the Secretary of War to be
franked. Meek ; his frank is better than mine. But no,
stay ; I will speak to Knox about it this time. And yoii
must not spend your money so recklessly, Meek; it will
not do — it wall not do." #■
Meek thanked the President both for the money and the
advice, but gave a champagne supper the next night, and
in a week's time was as empty-handed as ever. Washing-
ton manners were in some respects too much like moun-
tain manners for five hundred dollars to go a great ways.
■fvl
.. ' • • ■ i<'}~T -I ■'. ,' ■
MU. THORNTON AS UEPRESENTATIVE OF OREGON. 463
CHAPTER XL.
r
We must go back a little way and take up the thread
of Oregon's political history as it relates to the persons
and events of which we have .been writing. However
irregular had been the appointment of a delegate for
Oregon, while still unrecognized by the general govern-
ment, and however distasteful as a party measure the ap-
pointment of Mr. Thornton had been to a majority of the
people of Oregon, there was nevertheless sufficient merit
ill his acts., since events had turned out as they had, to
reconcile even his enemies to them. For what did it con-
cern the people who procured or helped to procure the
blessings they asked for, so only that they were made sure
of the blessings. •'-^■' ■ li:
Mr. Thornton had done what he could in Washington
to secure for Oregon the things desired by her citizens.
Immediately on his arrival he had prepared, at the instance
of Mr. Polk, a memorial to Congress setting forth the con-
dition of the country and the wants of the colony. In
addition to this he had prayed for the passage of a law
organijiing a territorial government, and donating land-
claims. To be sure Congress had been memorialized on
these subjects for years, and all to no purpose. But there
^vas a decided advantage in having a man versed in law
and conversant with legal forms as well as territorial wants,
to assist in getting up the bills concerning Oregon. Be-
sides, Thornton was a conscientious man, and would not
agree to a fraud.
30
I
4G4
THE TERUITOUIAL DILL IN THE SENATE.
The territoriiil bill was gotten up among the friends of
Oregon in the Free-Soil party, and had incorporated into
it the ordinance of 1787, prohibiting slavery, and this was
so not only because the free-soilera desired it, but because
the people of Oregon desired it. But a few sagacious
Southern members had conceived the idea of making Mr.
Thornton responsible for the expunging of the obnoxious
clause, by trying to convince him that the bill could never
be passed with the ordinance of 1787 in it, and that would
he, Thornton, but consent to have it stricken out, they
were assured that the friends of free-soil would allow it to
pass for the sake of waiting, expectant Oregon, So rea-
soned Calhoun and others.
Thornton, however, was both too wise and too faithful
to be humbugged in that specious manner. He assured
Mr. Calhoun that in the first place he had no authority to
consent to the expunging of the ordinance of 1787; in
the second place, that the people of Oregon would wait
for a territorial government until they could obtain one
which promised them free institutions ; and in the third
place, that he did not believe the free-soil party would ever
allow the bill to pass, amended as Mr. Calhoun proposed;
therefore that had he the authority to consent to the amend-
ment, he should gain nothing, but lose all by doing so.
Thus, through the almost entire summer, the friends
and the enemies of free-soil quarreled and schemed over
Oregon. Not that any were really opposed to the exten-
sion of the Government over that territory, but only that
the Southern members objected to more free soil.
The President was very anxious that the bill should
pass in some shape during his administration. Benton of
Missouri, was eager for its passage as it was. Butler of
South Carolina, fiercely opposed to it. Numerous were
the skirmishes which these two Senators had over the
thl: uill opposed by southkhnkhs.
4G5
Oregon question ; and a duel would, in one instance, havo
lesultod, had not the arrest of the parties put a termina-
tion to the alViiir. . . . , . . > ,
Tiie land bill too, gave considerable trouble; not from
jiiiy opposition it encountered, but because nobody knew
I,()W much land to give each settler. Some Congressmen,
in the magnificence of their generosity and compassion,
were for granting one thousand acres to every white male
settler of the territory. The committee who had this bill
ill liand, on consulting the two Oregon representatives,
were informed that the proposed donation was altogether
tuo largo, and it was subsequently reduced.
The close of the session was at hand and nothing had
i)een done except to talk. Congress was to adjourn at
noon on Monday, August 14th, and it was now Saturday
the 12th. The friends of Oregon were anxious; the two
waiting Oregonians nearly desperate. On this morning
of the 12th, the friends of the bill, under Benton's lead, de-
termined upon obtaining a vote on the final passage of the
bill; resolving that they would not yield to ^..d usual mo-
tions for delay and adjournments, but that they would, if
necessary, sit until twelve o'clock Monday.
Oil the other hand, the southern members, finding that
110 motion for adjournment could be made to prevail, But-
ler, of South Carolina, moved that the Senate go into ex-
ecutive session. This was done because under the rules
of the Senate, the Oregon bill would necessarily give
place to the business of the executive session. And the
business to which Senator Butler proposed to call the at-
tention of the senate was certain conduct of the gentle-
man from Missouri, which he characterized as dishonorable.
At the word " dishonorable " Benton sprang to bis feet,
exclaiming — "You lie, sir! you lie! ! I cram the lie down
your throat! ! !" at the same time advancing toward Butler
4G6
SCENE BETWEEN Bim.ER AND UENTOX.
; 1
■ t
■ 1
i
i
i
with his fist clenched and niiscd in a threatening manner
IJntler on his part seemed very willing to engage in a per-
sonal conflict, awaiting his antagonist with the genuine
game look which has formerly been supposed to be one
of the signs of good southern blood. ■ "
But a fight on the floor of the Senate between two of
its white-haired members could not be sufl'ered to go on
the combatants being separated by the other Senators.
who crowded in between. The eyes of Butler burned
fiercely as he said to Benton over the heads of his of-
ficious friends, —
"I will sec you, sir, at another time and place!"
"Very well, sir;" returned Benton: "but you will do
well to understand that when I fight, I fight for a fu-
neral!"
That this affair did not terminate in <i funeral was
probably owing to the arrest of the parties.
At ten o'clock Saturday evening, order having been re-
stored, and no adjournment having yet prevailed, Senator
Foote of Mississippi, arose and commenced to speak in a
manner most irritatingly drawling and dull ; saying thai
since there was to be no adjournment before twelve o'clock
Monday noon, he proposed to entertain to the best of his
ability the grave deliberative body before him.
Commencing at the creation of Adam, he gave the Bi-
ble Story — the creation of Eve ; the fall of man ; the his-
tory of the children of Israel ; the stories of the proph-
ets ; ecclesiastical history, — only yielding the floor for a
motion, at intervals of an hour each, continuing to drawl
through the time hour after hour.
Sleepy senators betook themselves to the anteroom to
lunch, to drink, to talk to the waiting ones, and to sleep.
But whenever a motion w.as made, a page aroused the
sleepers and they took their seats and voted.
SE.VATOll FOOTk'b LECTURE — THE LiLL PASBEI). 407
(1 funeral was
Thus \vor(3 the nij^lit away. The Sabbath iiiorniiig'H sun
arose, and atill Footo was in the midst of his BibU) disqui-
HJlions. At lenj^th, two hours after sunrise, a consultation
was held between Butler, Mason, Calhoun, Davis and
Foote, which resulted in the announcement that no further
opposition would be offered to taking the vote upon the
liiiiil passage of the Oregon bill. The vote was then ta-
ken, the bill passed, and the weary senate adjourned, to
uioct again on Monday for a final adjournment.
After ihe adjournment on Sunday morning, Benton in
alhuliiig to the scene between himself and the senator
I'roiu South Carolina, said, "he did not blame Judge But-
ler so much as he might ; because that scoundrel
Calhoun was urging Butler to it, while he himself sat say-
ing nothing, and doing nothing, but looking as demure as
a courtesan at a christening." i., , , .. -.;
Truly "such are the compliments that pass when gen-
tlemen meet." '-(v^'v:; t;, ::...> '/-li--.' .'-^ 'J.,,.*. ■ , .... .
The Land bill, or Donation act, as it is generally known,
failed of being passed at this session, simply because it
had to wait for the Territorial bill to be passed, being
supplementary to it, and because after the passage of that
bill there was no time to take up the other.
As Thornton had been chiefly instrumental in getting
the Donation bill into shape, it was a severe disappoint-
ment, in not having it passed at the same session with the
Territorial bill, and having to return to Oregon with-
out this welcome present to the people of the new ter-
ritory.
Collamer of Vermont, sympathizing with the failure of
the Donation Law, proposed to T .ornton to draw up a
new bill including some amendments suggested by him,
and to forward the same to his ('Collamer's) address, prom-
ising to see what could be done with it thereafter. This
ft *
i
jl^l^M
468
FAILURE OF THE LAND BILL.
-■■1:
Thornton did, and also carried a copy of it home to Ore-
gon, and placed it in the hands of Oregon's first delegate
to Congress, who, after making a few alterations in the
bill, adopted and claimed it for his own. Tiie bill thus
amended and re-amended, became a law in September
1850 ; and of that law we shall have occasion to speak
hereafter.
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If
MEEK APPOINTED U. a. MAliaUAL FOii OliEGON.
469
CHAPTER XLI,
1848-9. The long suspense ended, Meek prepared to
return Lo Oregon, if not without some regrets, at the same
time not unwillingly. His restless temper, and life-long
habits of unrestrained freedom began to revolt against the
conventionality of his position in Washington. Besides,
in appointing officers for the new territory, Polk had made
him United States Marshal, than which no office could
have suited him better, and "le was as prompt to assume
the discharge of its duties, as all his life he had been to
inidortake any duty to which his fortunes assigned him.
On the 20th of August, only six days after the passage
of the territorial bill, he received his papers from Buchan-
an, and set off" for Bedford Springs, whither the family
from the White House were flown to escape from the suf-
focating ai.'* of Washington in August. He had brought
his papers to be signed by Polk, and being expected by
the President found everything arranged for his speedy
de|)arture ; Polk even ordering a seat for him in the up-
coming coach, by telegraph. On learning this from the
President, at dinner, when the band was playing. Meek
turned to the leader and ordered him to play " Sweet
Home," much to the amusement of his lady cousins, who
had their own views of the sweets of a home in Oregon.
A hurried farewell, spoken to each of his friends sepa-
rately, and Oregon's new Marshal was ready to proceed
on his long journey toward the Pacific.
■ r^w- ■
470
PAY OF THE DELEGATES THE LION S SHAEE.
(•: "
The occasion of Polk's haste in the matter of gettiiiff
Meek started, was his anxiety to have the Oregon govern-
ment become a fact before the expiration of his term of
office. The appointment of Governor of the new terri-
tory had been offered to Shields, and declined. Another
commission had been made out, appointing General Jo-
seph Lane of Indiana, Governor of Oregon, and tlie com-
mission was that day signed by the President and given
to Meek to be delivered to Lane in the shortest possible
time. His last words to the Marshal on parting were—
" God bless you, Meek. Tell Lane to have a territorial
government organized during my administration."
Of the ten thousand dollars appropriated by Congress
"to be expended under the direction of the President, in
payment for services and expenses of such persons as had
been engaged by the jrovisional government of Oregon
in conveying communications to and from the United
States; and for purchase of presents for such Indian
tribes as the peace and quiet of the country required"—
Thornton received two thousand six hundred dollars,
Meek seven thousand four hundred, and the Indian tribes
none. Whether the President believed that the peace
and quiet of the country did not require presents to be
made to the Indians, or whether family credit required
that Meek should get the lion's share, is not known. How-
ever that may be, our hero felt himself to be quite rich,
and proceeded to get rid of his superfluity, as will hereafter
be seen, with his customary prodigality and enjoyment of
the present without regard to the future.
Before midnight on the day of his arrival at the springs,
Meek was on his way to Indiana to see General Lane. Ar-
riving at the Newburg landing one morning at day-break,
he took horse immediately for the General's residence at
Newburg, and presented him with hia commission soon
THE GOVERNOR AND MARSHAL START FOR OREGON. 471
after breakflist. Lane sat writing, Avhcn Meek, introducing
himself, laid his papers before him. ' -
"Do jou accept?" asked Meek. '■'■ • i •
"Yes," answered Lane. '" •
"How soon can you be ready to start?" ' '
"111 fifteen minutes!" answered Lane, with military
promptness. ; - •• - ; -t.
Three days, however, were actually required to make the
necessary p'-eparations for leaving his farm and proceed-
ing to the most remote corner of the United States terri-
tory.
At St. Louis they were detained one day, waiting for a
boat to Leavenworth, where they expected to meet their
escort. This one day was too precious to be lost in wait-
ing by so business-like a person as our hero, who, when
nothing more important was to be done generally was
found trying to get rid of his money. So, on this occa-
sion, after having disburdened himself of a small amount
in treating the new Governor and all his acquaintances, he
entered into negotiations with a peddler who was impor-
tuning the passengers to buy everything, from a jack-
knife to a silk dress. >^^-^(' ■■■..-AM'^'-rj:,^'^. iAJii-ra w , ^mm
Finding that Nat. Lane, the General's son, wanted a
knife, but was disposed to beat down the price, Meek
made an offer for the lot of a dozen or two, and thereby
prevented Lane getting one at any price. Not satisfied
with this investment, he next made a purchase of three
whole pieces of silk, at one dollar and fifty cents per yard.
At this stage of the transaction General Lane interfered
?uffieiently to inquire " what he expected to do with that
stuff :^"
" Can't tell," answered Meek ; " but I reckon it is worth
the money."
'• Better save your money," said the more prudent Lane.
ill
m V
* H-lIf 1
' t Jim
i j 'iiS
472
THE ESCORT OF KIFLEMEN THE ROUTE.
U: \
But the incorrigible spendthrift only laughed, and threat-
ened to buy out the Jew's entire stock, if Lane persisted
in preaching economy.
At St. Louis, besides his son Nat., Lane was met by
Lieut. Hawkins, who was appointed to the command of
the escort of twenty -five riflemen, and Dr. Hayden, sur-
geon of the company. This party proceeded to Leaven-
worth, the point of starting, where the wagons and men
of Hawkins' command awaited them. At this place, Meek
was met by a brother and two sisters who had come to
look on him for the first time in many years. The two
days' delay which was necessary to get the train ready for
a start, afforded an opnor amity for this family reunion, the
last that might ever occur between its widely separated
branches, new shoots from which extend at this day from
Virginia to Alabama, and from Tennessee to California
and Oregon. . . ,. .. ..r,.,.,.
By the 10th of September the new government was on
its way to Oregon in the persons of Lane and Meek. The
whole company of officers, men, and teamsters, numbered
about fifty -five ; the wagons ten ; and riding-horses, an
extra supply for each rider.
The route taken, with the object to avoid the snows of
a northern winter, was from Leavenworth to Santa Fe,
and thence down the Rio Grande to near El Paso ; thence
northwesterly by Tucson, in Arizona; thence to the
Pimas village on the Gila River ; following the Gila to its
junction with the Colorado, thence northwesterly again to
the Bay of San Pedro in California. From this place the
company were to proceed by ship to San Francisco ; and
thence again by ship to the Columbia River.
On the Santa Fe trail they met the army returning
from Mexico, under Price, and learned from them that
they could not proceed with wagons beyond Santa Fe.
-yf--
PRICE S ARMY AX ADVENTURE.
473
The lateness of the season, although it was not attended
^vitli snow, as on the northern route it would have been,
subjected the travelers 'nevertheless to the strong, cold
^viiuls which blow over the vast extent of open country
between the Missouri River and the high mountain range
which forms the water-shed of the continent. It also
iniule it more difficult to subsist the animals, especially
lifter meeting Price's army, which had already SAvept the
country bare.
On coming near Santa Fe, Meek was riding ahead of
his party, when he had a most unexpected encounter.
Seeing a covered traveling carriage drawn up under the
shade of some trees growing beside a small stream, not
far off from the trail, he resolved, with his usual love of
adventure, to discover for himself the character of the
proprietor. But as he drew nearer, he discovered no
one, although a camp-table stood under the trees, spread
with refreshments, not only of a solid, but a fluid nature.
The sight of a bottle of cognac induced him to dismount,
and he was helping himself to a liberal glass, when a
head was protruded from a covering of blankets inside
the carriage, and a heavy bass voice was heard in a polite
protest: '" - %>= .v., ....-y .^^ivr .jw^.^ .^c
" Seems to me, stranger, you are making free with my
property!" : ; ,-.;,,-..„-
" Here's to you, sir," rejoined the purloiner ; " it isn't
often I find as good brandy as that," — holding out the
glass admiringly, — " but when I do, I make it a point of
honor not to pass it."
"May I inquire your name, sir?" asked the owner of
tlie brandy, forced to smile at the good-humored audacity
of his guest.
" I couldn't refuse to give my name after that," — re-
placing the £;lass on the table, — "and I now introduce
222
tr
It
474
A PLEASANT AND UNEXPECTED ENCOUNTER.
myself as Joseph L. Meek Esq., Marshal of Oregon, on
my way from Washington to o':sist General Lane in estab-
lishing a territorial Government west of the Rocky Moun-
tains. "
"Meek! — what, not the Joe Meek I have heard iny
brothers tell so much about ?"
" Joe Meek is my name ; but whar did your brothers
know me ?" inquired our hero, mystified in his turn.
" I think you must have known Captain William Sub-
lette and his brother Milton, ten or twelve years ago, in
the Eocky Mountains," said the genileman, getting out of
the carriage, and approaching Meek with extended hand.
A delighted recognition now took place. From Solo-
mon Sublette, the owner of the cirriage and the cognac,
Meek learned many particulars of the life and death of
his former leaders in the mountains. Neither of them
were then living ; but this younger brother, Solomon,
had inherited Captain Sublette's wife and wealth at the
same time. .After these explanations, Mr. Sublette raised
the curtains of the carriage again, and assisted to descend
from it a lady, whom he introduced as his wife, and who
exhibited much gratification in becoming acquainted with
the hero of many a tale recited to her by her former hus-
band. Captain Sublette.
In the midst of this pleasant exchange of reminiscences,
the remainder of Meek's party rode up, were introduced,
and invited to regale themselves on the fine liquors with
which Mr. Sublette's carriage proved to be well furnished.
This little adventure gave our hero much pleasure, as
furnishing a link between the past and present, and bring-
ing freshly to mind many incidents already beginning to
fade in his memory. v^ . ^,-^ .,:,
At Santa Fe, the train stopped to be overhauled and
reconstructed. The wagons having to be abandoned,
COUNTER.
DESERTION OF SOLDIERS — DROUTH.
475
their contents had to be packed on mules, after the man-
ner of mountain or of Mexican travel and transportation.
This change accomplished, with as little delay as possible,
the train proceeded without any other than the usual
difficulties, as far as Tucson, when two of the twenty-five
riflemen deserted, having become suddenly enamored of
liberty, in the dry and dusty region of southern Arizona.
Lieutenant Hawkins, immediately on discovering the
desertion, dispatched two men, well armed, to compel
their return. One of the men detailed for this duty be-
longed to the riflemen, but the other was an American,
who, with a company of Mexican packers, had joiaed the
train at Santa Fe, and was acting in the capacity of pilot.
Ill order to fit out this volunteer for the service, always
dangerous, of retaking deserting soldiers. Meek had lent
him his Colt's revolvers. It was a vain precaution, how-
ever, both the men being killed in attempting to capture
the deserters ; and Meek's pistols were never more heard
of, having fallen into the murderous hands of the run-
aways.
'ia-' ■'l!^^^'r^*•
•im
Drouth now began to be the serious evil with which
the travelers had to contend. From the Pimas villages
■westward, it continually grew worse, the animals being
greatly reduced from the want both of food and water.
At the crossing of the Colorado, the animals had to be
crossed over by swimming, the officers and men by rafts
made of bulrushes. Lane and Meek being the first to be
ferried over, were landed unexpectedly in the midst of a
Yuma village. The Indians, however, gave them no
trouble, and, except the little artilice of drowning some
of the mules at the crossing, in order to get their flesh to
eat, committed neither murders nor thefts, nor any out-
rage whatever.
It was quite as well for the unlucky mules to be
\i
476
DEMORALIZATION OF THE ESCORT.
i-1
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drowned and eaten as it was for their fellows to travel on
over the arid desert before them until they starved aiul
perished, which they nearly all did. From the Colorado
on, the company of Lieut. Hawkins became thoroughly
demoralized. Not only would the animals persist in
dying, several in a day, but the soldiers also persisted in
deserting, until, by the time he reached the coast, his for-
lorn hope was reduced to three men. But it was not the
drouth in their case which caused the desertions : it was
rumors which they heard everywhere along the route, of
mines of gold and silver, where they flattered themselves
they could draw better pay than from Uncle Sam's coffers.
The same difficulty from desertion harassed Lieutenant-
Colonel Loring in the following summer, when he at-
tempted to establish a line of posts along the route to
Oregon, by the way of Forts Kearney, Laramie, and
through the South Pass to Fort Hall. His mounted rifle
regiment dwindled down to almost nothing. At one
time, over one hundred men deserted in a body : and al-
though he pursued and captured seventy of them, he
could not keep them from deserting again at the first
favorable moment. The bones of many of those gold-
seeking soldiers were left on the plains, where wolves had
stripped the flesh from them ; and many more finally had
rude burial at the hands of fellow gold-seekers : but few
indeed ever won or enjoyed that for which they risked
everything.
On arriving at Cook's wells, some distance beyond the
Colorado, our travelers found that the water at this place
was tainted by the body of a mule which had lost its Hfe
some days before in endeavoring to get at the water.
This was a painful discovery for the thirsty party to make,
However, there being no water for some distance ahead,
General Lane boiled some of it, and made coffee of it,
IT.
ws to travel on
cy starved and
a the Colorado
me thoroughly
iials persist in
so persisted in
e coast, his for-
i it was not the
ortions : it was
? the route, of
red themselves
e Sam's coffers.
sed Lieutenant-
, when he at-
g the route to
Laramie, and
i mounted rifle
ing. At one
body : and al-
of them, lie
in at the first
of those gold-
YQ wolves had
Dre finally had
vers : but few
zh they risked
3e beyond the
;r at this place
id lost its fife
at the water.
)arty to make,
istance ahead,
e coffee of it,
Till
I'AllTY ON FOOT — EXTUEME SUFFEUIXa. 477
rcniiirkiiig that "maggots were more easily swallowed
coukcd than raw!"
And liero the writer, and no doubt, the reader too, is
coiiipi'Ued to make a reflection. Was the office of Gover-
nor of a Territory at fifteen liuiidred dollars a year, and
Indian agent at fifteen hundred more, worth a journey of
over three thousand miles, chiefly by land, even allowing
that there had been no maggots in the water? Quien
mhe?
Not far from this locality our party came upon one hun-
dred wagons abandoned by Major Graham, who had not
been able to cross the desert with them. Proceeding on-
ward, the riders eventually found themselves on foot, there
being only a few animals left alive to transport the bag-
gage that could not be abandoned. So great was their
extremity, that to quench their thirst the stomach of a
mule was opened to get at the moisture it contained. In
the horror and pain of the thirst-fever. Meek renewed
again the sufferings he had undergone years before in the
deserts inhabited by Diggers, and on the parched plains
of the Snake River. ■ ■
About the middle of January the Oregon Government,
which had started out so gaily fi'om Fort Leavenworth,
arrived weary, dusty, foot-sore, famished, and suffering, at
William's Ranch on the Santa Anna River, which empties
into the Bay of San Pedro. Here they were very kindly
received, and their wants ministered to.
At this place Meek developed, in addition to his various
accomplishments, a talent for speculation. While over-
hauling his baggage, the knives and the silk which had
been purchased of the peddler in St. Louis, were brought
to light. No sooner did the senoritas catch a glimpse of
the shining fabrics than they went into raptures over them,
after the fashion of their sex. Seeing the state of mind
478
SPECULATION IN SILKS AND JACKKNIVES.
to which these raptures, if unheeded, were likely to re-
duce the ladies of his house, Mr. Williams ai)proaclic'(l
Meek delicately on tlie subject of purchase. But Meek
in the first flush of speculative shrewdness dechired that
as he had bought the goods for his own wife, he could not
find it in his heart to sell them.
However, as the senoritas were likely to prove inconsola-
ble, Mr. Williams again mentioned the desire of his family
to be clad in silk, and the great difTiculty, nay, impossi-
bility, of obtaining the much coveted fabric in that part
of the world, and accompanied his remarks with an otFer
of ten dollars a yard for the lot. At this magnificent ofTer
our hero affected to be overcome by regard for the feel-
ings of the senoritas, and consented to sell his dollar and
a-half silks for ten dollars per yard. .:
In the same manner, finding that knives were a desira-
ble article in that country, very much wanted by miners
and others, he sold out his dozen or two, for an ounce
each of gold-dust, netting altogether the convenient little
profit cf about five hundred dollars. When Gen. Lane
was ihfoDvtrd of the transaction, and reminded of his ob-
jectior.s to the original purchase, he laughed heartily.
"Well Meek," said he, "you were drunk when you
bought them, and by I think you must have been
drunk when you sold them; but drunk or sober, I will
own you can beat me at a bargain."
Such bargains, however, became common enough about
this time in California, for this was the year memorable in
California history, of the breaking out of the gold-fever,
and the great rush to the mines which made even the
commonest things worth their weight in gold-dust.
Proceeding to Los Angelos, our party, once more comfort-
ably mounted, found traveling comparatively easy. At this
place they found quartered the command of Maj. Graham,
OUKOONIANS AT SAN FRANCISCO.
479
whose abanfloncd wap^ons had been pas.^ed at the Tloniella
on the Colorado River. The town, too, was crowded
with miners, men of every class, but chiefly American
adventurers, drawn together from every quarter of Cali-
fornia and Mexico by the rumor of the gold discovery at
Sutter's Fort.
On arriving at San Pedro, a vessel — the Southampton,
was found ready to sail. She had on board a crowd of
fugitives from Mexico, bound to San Francisco, wliere they
hoped to find repose from the troubles which harassed
that revolutionary Republic.
At San Francisco, Meek was surprised to meet about
two hundred Oregonians, who on the first news of the
gold discovery the previous autumn, had fled, as it is said
men shall flee on the day of judgment — leaving the wheat
ungathered in the fields, the grain unground in the mills,
the cattle unherded on the plains, their tools and farming
implements rusting on the ground — everything abandoned
as if it would never more be needed, to go and seek the
sliining dust, which is vainly denominated "filthy lucre."
The two hundred were on their way home, having all
either m.ade something, or lost their health by exposure
so that they were obliged to return. But they left many
more in the mines.
Such were the tales told in San Francisco of the won-
derful fortunes of some of the miners that young Lane be-
came infected with the universal fever and declared his
intention to try mining with the rest. Meek too, deter-
I mined to risk something in gold-seeking, and as some of
the teamsters who had left Fort Leavenworth with the
company, and had come as far as San Francisco, were very
desirous of going to the mines. Meek fitted out two or
three with pack-horses, tools, and provisions, to accompany
[young Lane. For the money expended in the outfit he
81
480
THE GOVERNOR AND MARSHAL QUARREL,
was to receive half of their first year's profits. The re-
sult of this venture was three pickle-jars of gold-dust,
which were sent to him by the hands of Nat. Lane, the
following year ; and which just about reimbursed him for
the outlay.
At San Francisco, Gen. Lane found the U. S. Sloop of
War, the St. Mary's; and Meek insisted that the Oregon
government, which was represented in their persons, had
a right to require her services in transporting itself to its
pioper seat, But Lane, whoso notions of economy ex-
tended, singularly enough, to the affairs of the general
government, would not consent to the needless expendi-
ture. Meek was rebellious, and quoted Thornton, by
whom he was determined nui to be outdone in respect of
expense for transportation. Lane insisted that his dignity
did not require a government vessel to convey him to
Oregon. In short the new government wns very muili
divided against itself, and only escaped a fall by Meek's
finding some tyne, or some others, else, on whom to ^lay
his pranks.
The first one was a Jew peddler who had gentlemen's
clothes to sell. To him the Marshal represented himself
as a United States Custom officer, and after frightening
him with a threat of confiscating his entire stock, finally
compromised with the terrified Israelite by accepting a
suit of clothes for himself After enjoying the mortifica-
tion of spirit which the loss inflicted on the Jew, for twen-
ty-four hours, he finally paid him for the clothes, at the
same time administering a lecture upon the sin and dan-
ger of smuggling.
The party which had left Leavenworth for Oregon!
nearly six months before, numbering fifty -five, now num
bered only seven. Of the original number ^wo had been
killed, and all the rest had de'=<erted to go to the mines,
i*:',T:
A SALUTE — ARRIVAL AT OREGON CITY.
481
Tliere remained only Gen. Lane, Meek, Lieut. Hawkins
;ind Ilaydcn, surgeon, besides three soldiers. With this
small company Gen. Lane went on board the Jeanette, a
small vessel, crowded with miners, and destined for the
Columbia River. As the Jeanette dropped down the Bay,
a salute was fired from the St. Mary's in honor of Gen.
Lane, and appropriated to himseK by Marshal Meek, who
seems to have delighted in appropriating to himself all
the honors in whatever circumstances he might be placed ;
the more especially too, if such assumption annoyed the
General.
After a tedious voyage of eighteen days the Jeanette
arrived in the Columbia, River. From Astoria the party
took small boats for Oregon City, a voyage ot one hun-
dred and twenty miles ; so that it was already the 2d of
March when they arrived at that place, and only one day
was left for the organization of the Territorial Govern-
ment before the expiratiou of Polk's term of office. Gen.
Lane's economy had nearly defeated Polk's greiit desire.>ii
','■ ■ ■ >-.'; '.'li'. '.■■"...•; ■•'.'■'■'* ■iO-^K-''-'~''\
■ .: • • ■■ i' •'.,-''■■,';>•' ■•,■• -. ■ '•-•3i/' .■V,<>fV,V.".4' '■' .-•¥>' -f,
I'^ii
^*^f*'A'..\ ;.a,, h-^t^
;^-ri' ^i
482
THE DROPPED THREADS OF OUR STORY.
■ ■ '''fr-*.r»lft*-i;
;- ,>:. ■'-■r';u
CHAPTER XLII.
1849. If this were a novel which we T<^ere writing, we
should fix Tipou this point in our story -^ > 'V; — "And so
they were married, and lived together h-ippily ever af-
ter ;" placing the Finis directly after that sentence. For
have we not brought Oregon through all the romantic ad-
ventures and misadventures ot her extraordinary youth,
and ushered her upon the stage of action a promising
young Territory ? As for our hero, he too has arrived at
the climax of his individual glory and success, a point at
which it might be wise to leave him.
But a regard for the eternal fitness of things compels
us to gather up again the dropped threads of somo por-
tions of our story, and follow them to their pv^ ": v^h.i-
ing up. We promise, however, to touch as lig c' ; ' ) .'--
sible upon the Territorial history of Oregon ; L ' m
political record here becomes, what the political recom
of too many other Territories has been, a history of dema
gogueisra. With this preface we proceed to finish our nar.
rative. '"
On the 2d of March Gen. Lane 'I'ved at Oregon City,
and was introduced to Gov. AberijLu..y, by M - 'hal Meek,
On the 3d, there appeared the following —
PROCLAMATION.
Tn pinsuaico of an act of C'^npvfss, irp^rved the 14th of August, in the
year of our Lord 1848, establislnr.g a Terv'h. '"i Government in the Territory
of Oregon :
I, Joseph Lane, was, on the 18th day of August, in the year 1848, appointed
.V ■■"
STORY.
GOV. LANES PROCLAMATION.
483
rr-f
re writing, we
'^—" And so
h.ippily ever af-
t sentence. For
the romantic ad-
aordinaxy youth,
ion a promising
)0 has arrived at
iccess, a point at
f things compels
ids of sor.16 yor-
eir pr'' ' ,^v Tfii. i-
as lig Gij* ■ ■ ')'r--
])regon ; L ' un
! political recui'u
, history of dema
to finish our nar.
I at Oregon City,
)y M-"hal Meek,
^■HM
I4tli of August, in the
iment in the Territory
le year 1848, appointed
Governor in anc' for the Territory of Oregon. I have therefore thought it
proper to issue chis, my proclamation, making known that I have this day en-
tered upon the discharge of the duties of my office, and by virtue thereof do
(kcliire the laws of the United States extended over, and declared to be in
force in si id Territory, so far as the same, or any portion thereof, may be ap-
plicable.
Given under my hand at Oregon City, in the Territory of Oregon, this 3d
day of March, Anno Domini 1849. Joskph Lank.
Thus Oregon had one day, under Polk, who, take it all
in all, had been a faithful guardian of her interests.
Shortly after the appearance of the proclamation of
Gov. Lane, Meek was sworn into office, and gave the re-
quired securities. All the other Territorial officers pres-
ent in the Territory, or as fast as they arrived, took the
oath of office ; courts were established, and the new gov-
ernment moved on. Of the Presiden+'al appointees who
accepted, were William T. Bryant of Indiana, Chief Jus-
tice 0. C. Pratt of Illinois, and Peter H. Burnett of Ore-
gon, Associate Justices of the District Court : John Adair
of Kentucly, Collector for the District of Oregon : and
Kintzinge Pritchett of Pennsylvania, Secretary of State.
The condition in which Gov. Lane found the new Ter-
ritory was not so sad as might reasonably be conjectured
from the fears of its inhabitants fifteen months previous.
Intimidated by the pretence of tho volunteers in the upper
country, the Indians haa remain c;d quiet, and the immigra-
tion of 1848 passed through their country without being
disturbed in any manner. So little apprehension was felt
concerning an Indian war at this time that men did not
hesitate to leave their homes and families to go to the gold
fields of California.
In the month of August, 1848, the Honolulu^ a vessel
of one hundred and fifty tons, owned in Boston, carrying
a consignment of goods to a mercantile house in Portland,
arrived at her anchorage in the Wallamet, via San Fran-
%m.
'i;-
"I ,.
484
THE GOLD EXCITEMENT.
\.. I 4;
CISCO, California. Captain Newell, almost before he had
discharged freight, commenced buying up a cargo of flour
and other provisions. But what excited the wonder of
the Oregonians was the fact that he also bought up all
manner of tools such as could be used in digging or cut-
ting, from a spaio and pickaxe, to a pocket-knife. This
singular proceeding naturally aroused the suspicions of a
people accustomed to have something to suspect. A de-
mand was made for the HonolidiCs papers, and these not
being forthcoming, it was proposed by some of the pru-
dent ones to tie her up. When this movement was at-
tempted, the secret came out. Captain Newell, holding
up a bag of gold-dust before the astonished eyes of his
persecutors, cried out —
" Do you see that gold ? you, I will depopulate
your country ! I know where there is plenty of this stuff,
and I am taking these tools where it is to be found."
This was in August, the month of harvest. So great
was the excitement which seized the people, that all classes
of men were governed by it. Few persons stopped to
consider that this was the time for producers to reap golden
harvests of precious ore, for the other yellow harvest of
grain which was already ripe and waiting to be gathered.
Men left their grain standing, and took their teams from
the reapers to pack their provisions and tools to the mines,
Some men would have gladly paid double to get back
the spades, shovels, or picks, which the shrewd Yankee
Captain had purchased from them a week previous. All
implements of this nature soon commanded fabuk as prices,
and he was a lucky man who had a supply.
The story of the gold-fever which began in the fall and
winter of '48, and raged with such violence through '49,
is too familiar to everybody to need repeating here. Only
as it affected the fortunes of Oregon need it be mentioned.
/
I . • !
' '•^r'T'TTyTyp^'^
SUDDEN PROSPERITY OF OREGON.
485
Its immediate effect was to give an impetus to business in
the Territory which nothing else ever could have done ;
to furnish a market for all sorts of produce, and employ-
ment for every kind of industry, to bring money into cir-
culation in place of wheat and beaver-skins, and for a time
to make the country extremely prosperous. , ;
One of the last acts of the Provisional Government had
been to authorize the weighing, assaying, and coining of,
gold — an act which was rendered necessary by the great
amount of "dust" in circulation, and the influx of the
debased South American coins. An association of gen-
tlemen taking the matter in hand, bore all the expense of
the dies, machinery, and labor, coining only about ten
thousand dollars in the summer of '49. They succeeded
in raising the price of " dust " from eleven to sixteen dol-
lars per ounce, and stopping XCa?^^ y^CH4>
the influx of South Ameri-
can coins. The gentlemen ^^^^^^) f? native;
who conferred a great bene-
fit on Oregon, were Kil-
borne, Magruder, Rector, beaver-money.
Campbell, and Smith. This money went by the name of
"Beaver- money," owing to the design on the dies, which
referred to the previous beaver currency.
But the ultimate effect of the California gold discove-
ries was to put a check upon the prosperity of Oregon.
The emigration from the states, instead of going to Oregon
as formerly, now turned off to California. Men soon dis-
covered the fertile quality of California soil, and while the
majority dug for gold a sufficient number went to farming
to make, together with the imports from the east, almost
a supply for the yearly hordes of gold seekers. The fame
of the • California climate, the fascinations of the ups and
.'%:
486
GRADUAL RELAPSE AND THE CAUSE.
.1
! I
downs of fortune's wheel in that country, and many other
causes, united to make California, and not Oregon, the
object of interest on the Pacific coast ; and the rapidity
with which California became self-supporting removed from
Oregon her importance as a source of supplies. There-
fore, after a few years of rather extraordinary usefulness
and consequent good fortune, the Territory relapsed into
a purely domestic and very quiet young State. This
change in its federal status was not altogether acceptable
to Oregonians. They had so long been accustomed to
regard themselves as the pets of a great and generous,
but rather neglectful Republic, from whose hands all man-
ner of favors were to be of right demanded, because they
had sustained for so long a time the character of good
children, without any immediate reward — that now when
a rival darling sprang into vigorous life and excessive fa-
vor, almost at once, their jealousy rankled painfully. So
naughty and disagreeable a passion as jealousy is its own
punishment, as the Oregonian of to-day would do well to
remember, while he does what he can to show to the world
that his State, by its splendid resources, fully justifies all the
outlay of patriotism and ardor which distinguished its
early history.
But to return to our mutton. Although Gov. Lane
did not find an Indian war on his hands immediately on
assuming the duties of his office, there was yet plenty to
do in getting the government organized, appointing offi-
cers to take the census, ordering elections, and getting the
run of Oregon politics, to occupy his attention for the
first three months of his administration.
The change in the government had not by any means
changed the objects and aims of the different parties in
Oregon. Now, as before, there was a Mission party,
strong in money and influence ; now, as before, the term
.^uxj ■.iiL U ^yi '^h^ed e/iw .:
.Had
•■^■T"
THE THREE PARTIES.
487
"Hudson's Bay man" was used by the Mission party to
bring odium upon any aspirant to office, or even business
success, who, not being intimidated by their interdict,
'•piitured to be employed professionally by Dr. McLaugh-
lin, or in any way to show regard for him. As there were
ahvays a certain number independent enough to act from
free will or conviction, there was in consequence still a
Hudson's Bay party. Between these two, as before, there
stood a third party, who added itself to or subtracted it-
self from the other two, as its purposes and interests
required. As there were haters of Dr. McLaughlin in
two of the parties it did not require a great amount of
shrewdness to inform a man that on this point might turn
liis political fortunes.
This discovery was made very early after his arrival in
the Territory by Gov. Lane, as well as by Judge Bryant,
and others, and used at times by them when there was an
object to be gained by it, although neither of these dig-
nitaries declared themselves openly as good haters of the
Doctor.
Dr. McLaughlin, on the settlement of the boundary
question, seeing that the London Company found much
fault with him for having "encouraged the settlement of
Oregon by the Americans," went to England to see the
Directors and have the matter understood between himself
and them. Finding on hearing his explanation, that while
doing nothing to encourage* settlement, he could not per-
mit the immigrants of the first few years to suffer after
tlieir arrival, and that out of charity only he had done
what was done for their relief, the Company still blamed
him, the Doctor then said to the Directors, " Gentlemen,
I will serve you no longer." Sixty thousand dollars, ex-
pended in helping American settlers was charged to his
private account. This amount was afterwards remitted,
but the debt was heavily felt at the time.
fc- »'- 1
488
DR. MCLAUGHLIN — NKW COMPLICATIONS.
i ■!
mi
V \
On his return to Oregon, and en the establishment of a
Territorial government, the Doctor determined to take out
naturalization papers, and become an American citizen.
But no sooner had the government been organized tlian
new complications arose in the Doctor's case. Judge
Bryant had been but a few days in the Territory before he
purchased from the Mission Milling Company the Island in
the river opposite Oregon City, which was occupied by
their mills, but which formed a part of the original claim
of Dr. McLaughlin. Thus the Chief Justice assumed at
once the. same attitude towards him which the Mission and
the Milling Company had done ; and as the island was
contained in Judge Bryant's district, and only two Judges
were at that time in the Territory, the Doctor felt con-
strained to seek advice from such Americans as were his
friends. Although some believed that his best chance of
holding his original claim, was to depend upon his posses-
sory rights under the treaty of 1846, others counseled
him to take out his naturalization papers and secure him-
self in the rights of an American citizen. This he did at
last, on the 30th of May, 1849.
We have spoken in a previous chapter of Mr. Thurston,
in connection with the Donation Act. It is related of this
gentleman that when he left Iowa for Oregon, he confided
to his personal friends his resolve to be "in Congress or in
— " two years after reaching that Territory. Like other
ambitious new-comers, he soon discovered what side to
take with certain influential persons, concerning the Hud-
son's Bay Company.^ which was but another name for Dr.
McLaughlin.
Mr. Thurston did not hesitate to ask the Doctor to vote
for him, for delegate to Congress, which, however, the
Doctor did not do, as one of his friends was up for the
same ofl&ce. But when he was finally elected to Congress,
,.=n^I) a/f! :ti
ryii,m r-'i-y-'
THE NEW DELEGATE TO CONGRESS.
489
fortunately within the two years to which he haJ limited
himseir— Mr. Thurston took ground which betrayed by
what influences he had been placed in the coveted position.
Mr. Thornton having returned to Oregon sometime in
May had made the acquaintance of the candidate for Con-
irress, and feeling some anxiety with regard to the Land
Bill, which he had expended considerable thought and
labor upon, conversed freely with Mr. Thurston upon the
subject, and finally, ' w his election, presented him with a
copy of his bill ; the same, with certain alterations, that
could not strictly be called amendments, which afterwards
became the Donation Law.
But the notable section of Mr. Thurston's bill, which
finally became a law, was that one which was intended to
secure him future political favors, by earning him the grat-
itude of the anti-Hudson's Bay party, and all others whose
private interests he subserved. This was the section
which exempted from the benefits of the act the Oregon
City claim, in the following words. " That there be, and
hereby is granted to the Territory of Oregon, two town-
ships, one north and one south of the Columbia River, to
aid in establishing a University, to be selected by the
Assembly, and approved by the Surveyor General. Also
the Oregon City claim, except those lo.'s sold previous to
March Uh, 1849."
In order to secure the passage of this part of the land
bill, Mr. Thurston addressed a letter to the House of Rep-
resentatives, of which he was a member, containing the
following assertions : — that it was the Methodist Mission
which first took the Oregon City claim ; that they were
driven from it by a fear of having the savages of Oregon
let loose upon them ; that a number of citizens of Oregon
had been successively driven from it, by the power of the
Hudson's Bay Company; that Dr. McLaughlin had al-
rl
^^ If
400
STORY OF THE DONATION ACT.
' ■ ; 1 ■
u:.
, I
j
1 f.
1 '
'
!i 1 i
L; 1 1
111
1 ■
ready sold lots to the amount of $200,000, enough for a
foreigner to make out of American territory ; and that
the Doctor had not taken out naturalization papers, but
was an Englislunan at heart, and still identified with the
Hudson's Bay Company, Mr. Thurston's letter contained
many more assertions equally false — but those just given
relate more particularly to the eleventh section of the Do-
nation Act.
Mr. Thurston's reason for asking to have all sales of lots
made before the fourth of March, 1849, confirmed, he de-
clared to be to prevent litigation. Dr. McLaughlin, he
said, ought to be made to pay for those lots, but '• not
wishing to create any litigation, the committee concluded
to quiet the whole matter by confirming those lots."
He further stated that the Doctor had upon the Oregon
City claim " a flouring mill, granaries, two double baw-
mills, a large number of houses, stores, and other buildings,
to which he may be entitled by virtue of his possessory
rights under the treaty of 1846. For only a part of these
improvements, which he may thus hold, he has been urged
during the past year to take $250,000."
Mr. Thurston sees no harm in taking this property, so
valuable in his estimation, which comprises the earnings
of a whole life-time spent in devotion to business in an
Indian country, away from all that men commonly esteem
desirable, from the proper owner. On the contrary he
makes an eloquent appeal to the House to save this valu-
able estate to the people of Oregon wherewith to educate
the rising generations.
Still further, so great is his fear that some portion of his
property may be left to the Doctor, he asks that the Island
portion of the claim, which he confesses is only a pile of
rocks, of no value except for the improvements on it, may
be " confirmed to George Abernethy, his heirs or assigns;'
BTOUY OF THE DONATION ACT.
491
iissigning as a reason that when the mission was driven
from Oregon City, it took refuge on this pile of roeks,
iuul liaving built a mill, afterwards sold it to Mr. Aber-
iiethy, one of the stockholders. Nothing is said about tlie
mill having been resold to Judge Bryant ; but Judge Bry-
iiiit could not object to having the Island confirmed to
him through Mr. Abernethy.
And here we may as well sever one of the threads in
our story. When it became known that by an act of Con-
gress Oregon City was reserved from the right of even an
American citizen to claim, and that only after years of
waiting would the title by possessory right be settled
either for or against him, the old Doctor's heart was broken.
He still continued to reside upon his claim, but the
uncertainty of title prevented any sales of property. The
iujjratitude of those whom he had assisted when assistance
was life itself to them, their refusals to pay what had been
lent them, and their constant calumniations, so bore upon
his spirits that his strength failed rapidly under them, and
for the last few years of his life he fancied himself reduced
to poverty, though he was still in possession of his im-
provements.
An example of the extent to which Rome men carried
their anti-McLaughlin principles may be fo' rd in the fol-
lowing story which was related to us by Li i gentleman
mentioned in it. The doctor one day stood upon the
street conversing with Mr. Thornton, who had been his
legal adviser in some instances, another gentleman also
being present. Their conversation was rudely interrupted
by a fourth individual, who set upon Mr. Thornton with
every manner of abuse and vile epithet for being seen in
communication with the " old Hudson's Bay, Jes-
uitical rascal," and much more to the same effect. To this
assault, Thornton, who had a great command of language,
ml
jisSi
rWi
'flf
492
DEATH OF DR. MCLAUGHLIN. ^,; »f
I i
replied in a manner which sent the man about his business
Then turning to the Doctor, he said:
" Doctor, I will lay a wager that man is one of your
debtors, who never intends to pay, and takes it out in
abuse."
" Yes, yes," answered the Doctor, trying to suppress his
nervousness ; *' when he came to Oregon he was naked
and hungry. I gave him assistance to the amount of four
hundred dollars. He is rich now ; has land and herds,
and everything in abundance ; but he hates me on ac-
count of that four hundred dollars. That is the way with
most of them !"
Dr. McLaughlin died September, 18 nd is buried in
the Catholic church-yard in Oregon City. Five years after
his death the State of Oregon restored to his heirs the
property which it had so long wrongfully withheld. As
for the demagogue who embittered the last days of a good
man, for political advancement, he did not live to enjoy
his reward. His health, delicate at the best, was very
much undermined at last by discovering that he received
more blame than praise, even among his former supporters,
for the eleventh section of the Donation Law. He be-
came very ill on his return, and died at Acapulco, Mexico,
without reaching home.
Very many persons have confirmed what his admirer,
Meek, says of Dr. McLaughlin, that he deserved to be
called the Father of Oregon.
> ■ I... -. ; .V
', ;.> . « A -r » ■
».-■.■• I -,, ii.j , •
-1.%*;, ^ it.:
MAUNANIMITY OF THE CAYUSli CHllii'S.
493
CHAPTER XLIII.
1850-4. The Territorial law of Oregon combined the
olTices of Governor and Indian Agent. One of the most
important acts which marked Lane's administration was
that of securing and punishing the murderers of Dr. and
Mrs. Whitman. The Indians of the Cayuse tribe to whom
the murderers belonged, were assured that the only way
ill which they could avoid a war with the whites was to
deliver up the chiefs who had been engaged in the massacre,
to be tried and punished according to the laws of the
whites. Of the two hundred Indians implicated in the
massacre, five were given up to be dealt with according to
law. These were the five chiefs, Te-lou-i-ktte, Tam-a-has,
Klok-a-mas^ Ki-am-a-sump-kin^ and I-sa-ia-cha-lak-is.
These men might have made their escape ; thei e was
no imperative necessity upon them to suffer death, had
they chosen to flee to the mountains. But with that
strange magnanimity which the savage often shows, to the
astonishment of Christians, they resolved to die for their
people rather than by their flight to involve them in
war.
Early in the summer of 1850, the prisoners were deliv.
ered up to Gov. Lane, and brought down to Oregon City,
where they were given into the keeping of the marshal.
During their passage down the river, and while they were
incarcerated at Oregon City, their bearing was most proud
and haughty. Some food, more choice than their prison-
er's fare, being offered to one of the chiefs at a camp of
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494
PROUD BEARING OF THE PRISONERS.
1^ (
the guard, in their transit down the Columbia, the proud
savage rejected it with scorn.
"What sort of heart have you," he asked, "that you
offer food to me, whose hands are red with your brother's
blood?"
And this, after eleven years of missionajy labor, -^vas all
the comprehension the savage nature knew of the main
principle of Christianity, — forgiveness, or cnarity toward
our enemies. . ^ i-
At Oregon City, Meek had m.any converiiations wlia
them. In all of these they gave but one explanation of
their crime. They feared that Dr. Whitman intended,
with the other whites, to take their land from them ; and
they were told by Jo Lewis, the half-breed, that the Doc-
tor's medicine v/as intended to kill them off quitjkly, in
order the sooner to get possession of their country. None
of them expressed any sorrow for what had been done;
but one of them, Ki-am-a-sump-kin^ declared his inno-
cence to the last.
In conversations with others, curious to "fain some
knowledge of the savage moral na,ture, Te-lou-ih'te often
puzzled these students of Indian ethics. When ques-
tioned as to his motive for allowing himself to be taken,
Te-lou-i-kite answered :
"Did not your missionaries tell us that Christ died to
save iiis people? So die we, to save our people!"
Notwithstanding the prisoners were pre-doomed to
death, a regular form of trial was gone through. The
Prosecuting Attorney for the Tenitory, A. Holbrook, con-
ducted the prosecution : Secretary Pritchett, Major Run-
nels, and Captain Claiborne, the defence. The fee of-
fered by the chiefs was fifty head of horses. Whether it
was compassion, or a love of horses which animated the
\)
'V
"w^'ipT*
ERS. .
mbia, the proud
iked, "that you
a your brother's
J J labor, was all
ew of the main
cnarity toward
veriiations wllh
! explanation of
tman intended,
roTCi them; and
i, that the Doc-
1 off quickly, in
country. None
lad been done;
ilared his inno-
to "fain some
'e-lou-ikite often
When ques-
jlf to be taken,
; Christ died to
people!"
are-doomed to
through. The
Holbrook, con-
tt, Major Run-
The fee of-
Whether it
animated the
MEEK S DESCRIPTION OP THE TRIAL.
495
I
defence, quite an effort was made to shovv that the mur-
derers were not guilty.
The presiding Justice was 0. C. Pratt — Bryant having
resigned. Perhaps we cannot do better than to give the
Marshal's own description of the trial and execution,
which is as follows : " Thar war a great many indict-
ments, and a great many people in attendance at this
court. The Grand Jury found true bills against the five
Indians, and they war arraigned for trial. Captain Clai-
borne led off for the defence. He foamed and ranted
like he war acting a play in some theatre. He knew
about as much law as one of the Indians he war defend
ing ; and his gestures were so powerful that he smashed
two tumblers that the Judge had ordered to be filled with
cold vv^ater for him. After a time he gave out mentally
and physically. Then came Major Runnels, who made a
very good defence. But the Marshal thought they must
do better, for they would never ride fifty head of horses
widi them speeches. '•■ ' ^ ^
Mr Pritchett closed for the defence with a very able
argument ; for he war a man of brains. But then followed
Jlr. Holbrook, for the prosecution, and he laid down the
case so plain that the jury were convinced before they
left the jury-box. When the J dge passed sentence of
death on them, two of the chi( !« showed no terror ; but
the other tliree were filled with horror and consternation
thai they could not conceal.
After court had adjourned, and Gov. Lane war gone
South on some business with the Rogue River Indians,
Secretary Pritchett came to me and told me that as he
war now acting Governor he meant to reprieve the In-
dians. Said he to me, ' Now Meek, I want you to liber*
ate them Indians, when yoi receive the order.'
Vi
■ SJ,K,''ij:
496
THE EXECUTION.
. 'Pritclictt,' said I, 'so far as Meek is concerned, he
would do anything for you.'
This talk pleased him ; he said he 'war glad to hear it'
and would go right off' and write the reprieve.'
* But,' said I, ' Pritchett, let us talk now like men. I
have got in my pocket the death-warrant of them Indians
signed by Gov. Lane. The Marshal v/ill execute them
men, as certain as the day arrives.'
Pritchett looked surprised, and remarked — 'That war
not what you just said, that you would do anything for
me.' ,: ff- . . .,,
Said I, 'you were talking then to Meek, — not to the
Marshal, who always does his duty.' At that he got mad
and left. - . ,,
When the 3d of June, the day of execution, arrived,
Oregon City was thronged with people to witness it, 1
brought forth the five prisoners and placed them on a
drop. Here the chief, who always declared his innocence,
Ki-am-i-sump-hin^ begged me to kill him with my knife,—
for an Indian fears to be hanged, — ^but I soon put an end
to his entreaties by cutting the rope which held the drop,
with my tomahawk. As I said ' The Lord have mercy on
your souls,' the trap fell, and the five Cayuses hung in
the air. Three of them died instantly. The other two
struggled for several minutes ; the Little Chief, Tam-a-hm^
the longest. It was he who was cruel to my little girl at
the time of the massacre ; so I just put my foot on the
\noi to tighten it, and he got quiet. After thirty-five
minutes they were taken down and buried."
*" Thus terminated a tragic chapter in the history of Ore-
gon. Among the services which Thurston performed for
the Territory, was getting an appropriation of $100,000,
to pay the expense? of the Cayuse war. From the Spring
of 1848, when all the whites, except the Catholic mission-
aries, were withdrawn from the upper country, for a pe-
STATE OF THE UPPER COUNTRY.
497
IS concerned, he
liod of several years, or until Government had made
treaties with the tribes east of the Cascades, no settlers
were permitted to take up land in Eastern Oregon. Dur-
ino- thosG years, the Indians, dissatisfied with the encroach-
ments which they foresaw the whites would finally make
upon tlieir countrj^, and incited by ceiiair. individuals who
IkuI suilered wrongs, or been punished for their own of-
fences at the hands of the whites, finally combined, as it
was supposed from the extent of the insurrection, and
Oregori was involved in a three years Indian war, the his-
tory of which would fill a volume of considerable size.
When Meek returned to Oregon as marshal, with his
fine clothes and his newly acquired social accomplish-
ments, he was greeted with a cordial acknowledgment of
his services, as well as admiration f r his improved appear-
ance. He was generally acknowledged to be the model
of a handsome marshal, w n clad in his half-military
dress, and placed astride of a line horse, in the execution
of the more festive duties of marshu! uf a procession on
some patriotic occasion, :j • •■ ' '
But no amount of official responsibility could evT
change him from a wag into a "grave and reverend
seignior." No place nor occasion was sacred to liim when
the wild humor was on him.
At this satne term of court, after the conviction < ' the
Cayuse chiefs, there was a case before Judge att, in
which a man was charged with selling liquor to the In-
dians. In these cases Indian evidence was allowed, but
the jury-room being up stairs, caused a good deal of
annoyance in court ; because when an Indian witness was
wanted up stairs, a dozen or more who were not wanted
would follow. The Judge's bench was so placed that it
commanded a full view of the staircase and every one
passing up or down it.
A call for some witness to go before the jury was fol
Ih"'
..ilu£w*i
498
SCENE IN A COURT-ROOM.
' i ' I r.
lowed on this occasion, as on all others, by a general rush
of the Indians, . ho were curious to witness the proceed-
ings. One fat old squaw had got part way up the stairs
when the Marshal, full of wrath, seized her by a leg and
dragged her down flat, at the same time holding the fat
MEEK AS UNITED STATES MARSHAL.
member so that it was pointed directly toward the Judge.
A general explosion followed this pointed action, and the
Judge grew very red in the face. rr...
" Mr. Marshal, come within the bar !" thundered the
Judge. . • ,., !:^! \..o<;: >?..
Meek complied, with a very dubious expression, of
countenance. .;.: oa(^ .• .
" I must fine you fifty dollars," continued the Judge;
"the dignity of the Court must be maintained."
When court had adjourned that evening, the Judge
and the Marshal were walking toward their respective
lodgings. Said Meek to his Honor : v-.i..
JUDGE NKLSON AND THE CAIIPENTEUS.
499
ard the Judge,
action, and the
thundered the
"Why d'v^ you fine me so heavily to-day ?" ' '^
" I must do .c," returned the Judge. " I must keep up
the dignity of the Court ; I must do it, if I pay the fines
myself"
"And you must pay all the fines you lay on the marshal,
of course," answered Meek.
" Very well," said the Judge ; " I shall do so."
"All right, Judge. As I am the proper disbursing
officer, you can pay that fifty dollars to me — and I'll take
it now."
At this view^ of the case, his Honor was staggered for
one moment, and could only swing his cane and laugh
faintly. After a little reflection, he said :
" Marshal, when court is called to-morrow, I shall remit
vour fine ; but don't you let me have occasiou to fine you
agaui !
I"
After the removal of the capital to Salem, in 1852,
court was held in a new building, on which the carpenters
Avere still at work. Judge Nelson, then presiding, was
much put out by the noise of hammers, and sent the
marshal more than once, to request the men to suspend
their work during those hours when court was in session,
hut all to no purpose. Firuilly, when his forbearance was
quite exhausted, he appealed to the marshal for advice.
"What shall I do, Meek," said he, "to stop that in-
fernal noise ?"
"Put the workmen on the Grand Jury," replied Meek.
" Summon them instantly !" returned the Judge. They
were summoned, and quiet secured for that term.
At this same term of court, a great many of the foreign
born settlers appeared, to file their intention of becoming
American citizens, in order to secure the benefits of the
Donation Law. Meek was retained as a witness, to swear
to their qualifications, one of which was, that they were
^
■.y
500
THE OREGON COURT ON AN EXCURSION.
possessed of good moral characters. The first day there
were about two hundred who made declarations, Meek
witnessing for most of them. On the day following, he
declined serving any longer.
"What now?" inquired the Judge; "you made no
objections yesterday."
"Very true," replied Meek; "and two hundred lies
are enough for me. I swore that all those mountain-men
were of 'good moral character,' and I never knew a
mountain-man of that description in my life ! Let Newell
take the job for to-day."
The "job" was turned over to Newell; but whether
the second lot was better than the first, has never trans-
pired.
During Lane's administration, there was a murder com-
mitted by a party of Indians at the Sound, on the person
of a Mr. Wallace. Owing to the sparse settlement of the
country. Governor Lane adopted the original measure of
exporting not only the officers of the court, but the jury
also, to the Sound district. Meek was ordered to find
transportation for the court in toto, jury and all. Boats
were hired and provisioned to take the party to the
Cowelitz Landing, and from thence to Fort Steilacoom,
horses were hired for the land transportation.
The Indians accused were five in number — two chiefs
and three slaves. The Grand Jury found a true bill
against the two chiefs, and let the slaves go. So few
were the inhabitants of those parts, that the marshal was
obliged to take a part of the grand jury to serve on the
petite jury. The form of a trial was gone through with,
the Judge delivered his charge, and the jury retired.
It was just after night-fall when these worthies betook
themselves to the jury-room. One of them curled him-
self up in a corner of the room, with the injunction to
THE CHIEF S WIFE.
501
the others to " wake him up when they got ready to hang
them rascals." The rest of the party spent four
or five hours betting against monte, when, being sleepy
also, they waked up their associate, spent about ten min-
utes in arguing their convictions, and returned a verdict
of "guilty of murder in the first degree."
The Indians were sentenced to be hung at noon on the
following day, and the marshal was at work early in the
morning preparing a gallows. A rope was procured
from a ship lying in the sound. At half-past eleven
o'clock, guarded by a company of artillery from the fort,
the miserable savages were marched forth to die. A
large number of Indians were collected to witness the
execution ; and to prevent any attempt at rescue, Captain
Hill's artillery formed a ring around the marshal and his
prisoners. The execution was interrupted or delayed for
some moments, on account of the frantic behavior of an
Indian woman, wife of one of the chiefs, whose entreaties
for the life of her husband were very affecting. Having
exhausted all her eloquence in an appeal to the nobler
feelings of the man, she finally promised to leave her
husband and become his wife, if he, the marshal, would
spare her lord and chief -^i" -'i:^ ,,
She was carried forcibly out of the ring, and the hang-
ing took place. When the bodies were taken down,
Meek spoke to the woman, telling her that now she could
have her husband ; but she only sullenly replied, " You
have killed him, and you may bury him."
This excursion of the Oregon court footed up a sum of
about $4,000, of which the marshal paid $1,000 out of
his own pocket. When, in the following year, Lane was
sent to Congress, Meek urged him to ask for an appropri-
ation to pay up the debt. Lane made no effort to do so,
'mm
502
LANES CAREER IN OREGON.
probably because he did not care to have the illegality uf
the proceeding commented upon. ,
Lane's career in Oregon, before the breaking out of the
rebellion, the betrayal of his secession proclivities, and
supposed actual conspiracy against the Government, was
that of a successi'ul politician. Having been appointed
so near the close of Polk's administration, he was suc-
ceeded, on the coming into office of General Taylor, by
General John P. Gaines, who arrived in Oregon in xVugust,
1850. In 1851, General Lane was elected delegate to
Congress, and returned to Oregon as Governor, by Frank-
lin Pierce, in 1853. He was appointed in March, arrived
at Salem May 16th, resigned the 19th, was elected to
Congress July 7th, returning again to Oregon, where he
at present resides, on the expiration of his term. His
mileage alone amounted to $10,000, besides the expenses
of his first overland journey. John W. Dg-vis was ne.xt
appointed Governor, by President Pierce. He arrived in
Salem April 1st, 1854, and resigned in August. A trip
to Oregon, with the mileage, appeared to be quite the
fashion of territorial times.
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Ji££K AS UNITED STATES MAUaUAL.
)03
CHAPTER XLiy,
While Meek was in Washington, he had been dubbed
with the title of Colonel, which title he still bears, though
(luring the Indian war of 1855-56, it was alternated with
that of Major. During his raarshalship he was fond of
showing off his titles and authority to the discomfiture of
that class of people who had " put on airs " with him
in former days, when he was in his transition stage from
a trapper to a United States Marshal.
While Pratt was Judge of the District Court, a kidnap-
ing case came before him. The writ of habeas corpus
having been disregarded by the Captain of the Melvin^
who was implicated in the business, Meek was sent to
arrest him, and also the first mate. Five of the Melvin^s
sailors were ordered to be summoned as witnesses, at the
same time.
Meek went on board with his summons, marched for-
ward, and called out the names of the men. Every man
came up as he was summoned. When they were together,
Meek ordered a boat lowered for their conveyance to
Oregon City. The men started to obey, when the Cap-
tain interfered, saying that the boat should not be taken
for such a purpose, as it belonged to him.
" That is of no consequence at all," answered the smiling
marshal. " It is a very good boat, and will suit our pur-
pose very well. Lower away, men ■ "
The men quickly dropped the boat. As it fell, they
n.t
sM'-f
rV" ",'."T'
604
THE CAPTAIN OF THE MELVIN.
were ordered to man it. When they were at the oars
tlie mate was then invited to take a seat in it, wliicli he
did, after a moment's hesitation, and gUmeing at his supe-
rior officer. Meek then turned to the Captain, and ex-
tended the same invitation to him. But lie was reluctant
to accept the courtesy, blustering considerably, and de-
claring his intention to remain where he was. Meek
slowly drew his revolver, all the time cool and smiling.
" I don't like having to urge a gentleman too hard,"
ho said, in a meaning tone ; " but thar is an argument
that few men ever resist. Take a seat. Captain."
The Captain took a seat ; the idlers on shore cheered
for "Joe Meek" — which was, after all, his most familiar
title ; the Captain and mate went to Oregon City, and
were fined respectively $500 and $300 ; the men took
advantage of being on shore to desert ; and altogether,
the master of the Melvin felt himself badly used.
About the same time news was received that a British
vessel was unloading goods for the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, somewhere on Puget Sound. Under the new order
of affairs in Oregon, this was smuggling. Delighted with
an opportunity of doing the United States a service, and
the British traders an ill turn. Marshal Meek immediately
summoned a i)osse of men and started for the Sound. On
his way he learned the name of the vessel and Captain,
and recognized them as having been in the Columbia
Biver some years before. On that occasion the Captain
had ordered Meek ashore, when, led by his curiosity and
general love of novelty, he had paid a visit to this vessel.
This information v7as " nuts" to the marshal, who believed
that "a turn about was fair play."
With great ' dispatch and secrecy he arrived entirely
unexpected at the point where the vessel was lying, and
proceeded to board her without loss of time. The Cap-
■^
AllUEST OF A HUrnsIl KML'OOLEU.
505
tiiin and officers were taken by surprise and were all
aghast at this uidooked fur appearance. But after the
lirst iiioincnt of agitation was over, tlie Captain recognized
Meek, lie being a man not likely to be forgotten, and
thinking to turn this circumstance to advantage, approach-
oil him with the blandest of smiles and the most cordial
iiiiinner, saying with forced frankness —
" I am sure J have had the i)leasure of meeting you be-
fore. You must have been at Vancouver when my ves-
sel was in the river, seven or eight years ago. I am very
lui{)py to have met with you again." : '
"Thar is some truth in that remark of yours. Captain,"
replied Meek, eyeing him with lofty scorn; "you did
meet me at Vancouver several years ago. But I was
iiotliing but 'Joe Meek ' at that time, and you ordered me
asliore. Circumstances are changed since then. I am
now Colonel Joseph L. Meek, United States Marshal for
Oregon Territory ; and you sir, are only a smug-
gler! Go ashore, sir!"
The Captain saw the point of that concluding " go
asliore, sir!" and obeyed with quite as bad a grace as 'Joe
Meek ' had done in the first instance.
The vessel was confiscated and sold, netting to the Gov-
ernment about $40,000, above expenses. This money,
which fell into bad hands, failed to be accounted for.
Nobody suspected the integrity of the marshal, but most
persons suspected that he placed too much confidence in
the District Attorney, who had charge of his accounts.
On some one asking him, a short time after, what had be-
come of the money from the sale of the smuggler, he
seemed struck with a sudden surprise:
''Why," said he, looking astonished at the question,
''tliar was barly enough for the officers of the court!"
This answer, given as it was, with such apparent simplic-
i
"„.l.l*ivfc».sll|
500
MISPLACED CONFIDENCE AND THE HESULT.
ily, ])GCJime a popular juku ; and " barly enough" wiia
quoted on all occasions. ^
The truth was, tliat there was a serious deficiency in
Meek's account with the Government, resulting entirely
from his want of confidence in his own literary accom-
plishments, which led him to trust all his corrr>!5pondenoo
and his accounts to the hands of a man whose talents wero
more eminent than his sense of honor. The result of this
misplaced confidence was a loss to the Government, and
to himself, whom the Government held accountable. Con-
trarv to the general rule of disbursing officers, ilie office
made; him poor instead of rich ; and when on the incom-
ing of the Pierce administration he suffered dt.apitation
along with the other Territorial officers, he Wa-, lo reed to
retire upon his farm on the Tualatin Plains, and become a
rather indifferent tiller of the earth.
The breaking out of the Indian war of 1855-6, was
preceded by a long period of uneasiness among the Indi-
ans generally. The large emigration which crossed the
plains every year for California and Oregon was one cause
of the disturbance ; not only by exciting their fears for
the possession of their lands, but by the temptation which
was offered them to take toll of the travelers. Difficulties
occurred at first between the emigrants and Indians con-
cerning stolen property. These quarrels were followed,
probably the subsequent year, by outrages and murder
on the part of the Indians, and retaliation on the part of
volunteer soldiers from Oregon. When once this system
of outrage and retaliation on either side, w^as begun, there
was an end of security, and war followed as an inevitable
consequence. Very horrible indeed were the acts per-
petrated by the Indians upon the emigrants to Oregon,
during the years from 1852 to 1858.
But when at last the call to arms was made in Oregon,
■^^
INDIAN DIHTUUBANCES — THE AGENT MUIIDKUED.
507
lade in Oregon,
it Wiis iiii opportunity i^ought, and not an altcM-nativo
forced ui)on tlioni, hy tho politicians of that Territory.
Tiio occasion was simply this. A party of lawless wretches
from the Sound Country, passing over the Cascade Moun-
tiiiiis into the Yakima Valley, on their way to the U{)per
roliiiii'oia mines, found some Yakima women digging roots
ill a lonely place, and abused them. The women fled to
thoir village and told the chiefs of the outrage ; and a party
followed the guilty whites and killed several of them in a,
tight. •■• ' '' '■ • '• ■ -
Mr. Bolin, the Indian aub-agent for Washington went
to the Yakima village, and instead of judging of the case
iiiipartially, made use of threats in the name of the United
States Government, saying that an army should be sent to
punish them for killing his people. On his return home,
Mr. Bolin was followed and murdered.
The murder of an Indian agent was an act which could
not be overlooked. Very properly, the case should have
been taken notice of in a manner to convince the Indiana
thiit murder must be punished. But, tempted by an op-
portunity for gain, and encouraged by the somewhat rea-
sonable fears of the white population of Washington and
Oregon, Governor G. L. Curry, of the latter, at once pro-
claimed war, and issued a call for volunteers, without wait-
ing for the sanction or assistance of the general Govern-
ment. The moment this was done, it was too late to re-
tract. It was as if a torch had been applied to a field of
dry grass. So simultaneously did the Indians from Puget
Sound to the Rocky Mountains, and from the Rocky Moun-
tains to the southern boundary of Oregon send forth the
war-whoop, that there was much justification for the belief
which agitated the people, that a combination among the
Indians had been secretly agreed to, and that the whites
were all to be exterminated. .^^^•^■■f«~M-^i'^*^-'"r'--''^^'-^'.-^-r^^f:-.^.*
III
M
508
THE INDIAN WAR OF 1855-6. '^
Volunteer companies were already raised and sert into
the Indian country, when Brevet Major G. 0. Haller ar-
rived at Vancouver, now a part of the United States. He
had been as flir east as Fort Boise to protect the incomino-
immigration ; and finding on his return that there was an
Indian war on hand, proceeded at once to the Yakima
country v/ith his small force of one hundred men only
lifty Oi whom were mounted. Much solicitude was felt
for the result of the lirst engagement, every one knowing
that if the Indians weie at first successful, the war would
be long and bloody.
Major Haller was defeated with considerable loss, and
notwithstanding slight reinforcements, from Fort Vancou-
ver, only succeeded in getting ".afely out of the country.
Major Raines, the commanding officer at Vancouver, seeing
the direction of events, made a requisition upon Governor
Curiy for .four of his volunteer corapauies to go into the
field. Then followed applications to Major Raiiios for
horses and arms to equip the volunteers ; but the horses
at the Fort being unfit for se^-vice, and the Major unau-
thorized to equip volunteer troops, there resulted only
misunderstandings and delays. When General Wool, at
the head of the Department in San Francisco, was con-
sulted, he also was v.-ithout authority to employ or receive
the voluntc s; and when the volunteers, who at length
armed and equipped themselves, came to go into the field
with the regulars, they could not agree as to the mode of
fighting Indians; so that wnth one thing and another, the
war became an exciting topic for more reasons tnan be-
cau'?e the whiles were afraid of the Indians. As for Gen-
eral Wool, he was in great disfavor both in Oregon and
Washington because he did not believe there ever had
existed the necessity for. a war ; and that therefore he
bestowed what assistance was at his command very grudg-
":!7|l'*fr-'^7*'""
OFFICEllS OF THE WAR — VOLUNTEERS.
509
ingly. General \^'ool, it was said, was jealous of the vol-
unteers; and the volunteers certainly cared little for the
OpiMlOll
of General Wool.
However all that may be, Col. Meek gives it as his ophi-
iou that the old General was right. " It makes me think,"
SiiiJ he, " of a bear-fight 1 once saw in the Rook} Moun-
tains, where a huge old grizzly was surrounded by a pack
of ten or twelve dogs, all snapping at and worrying him.
It made him powerful mad, and every now and then he
would make a claw at one of tliem that silenced him at
once."
The Indian war in Oregon gave practice to a number of
officers, since become famous, most prominent among
whom is Sheridan, who served in Oregon as a I.ieutenant.
Grant himself, was at one time a Captain on that frontier.
Col. Wright, afterwards Geu. Wright, succeeded Major
Ranges at Vancouver, and conducted the war through its
most active period. During a period of three years there
were troops constantly occupied in trying to subdue the
Indians in one quarter or another.
As for the volunteers they fared badly. On the first
call to arms the people responded liberally. The proposi-
tion which the Governor made for their equipment was
accepted, and they turned in their property at a certain
valuation. When the war was over and the property sold,
the men who had turned it in could not purchase it with-
out paying more for it in gold and silver than it was val-
ued at when it was placed in the hands of the Quarter-
master. It was sold, however, and the money enjoyed by
the shrewd political speculators, who thought an Indian
war a very good investment.
Aleek was one of the first to volunteer, and went as a
private in Company A. On arriving at the Dalles he was
detailed for special scj'vice by Col. J. W. Nesmith, and
■pit
510
MAJOR MEEK AS A VOLUNTEER.
Is 1 "
. 1
i
1 i
t
■
i
I \
■ : 1
sent out as pilot or messenger, whenever any such duty
was required. He -was finally placed on Nesraith's staff
ind given the title of Major. In this capacity, as in every
other, he was still the same alert and willing individual
that we have always seen him, and not a whit less inclined
to be merry when an opportunity offered.
While the army was in the Yakima country, it being an
enemy's country, and provisions scarce, the troops some-
times were in want of rations. But Meek had not forgot-
ten his mountain craft, and always had something to eat,
if anybody did. One evening he had killed a fat cow
which he had discovered astray, and was proceeding to
roast a twenty-pound piece before his camp-fire, when a
number of the officers called on him. The sight and sa-
vory smell of the beef was very grateful to them.
"Major Meek," said they in a breath, "we will sup with
you to-night." ' a-....
"I am very sorry, gentlemen, to decline the honor,"
returned Meek with a repetition of the innocent surprise
for which he had so often been laughed at, "but lam
very hungry, and thar is barly enough beef for one
man!"
On hearing this sober assertion, those who had heard
the story laughed, but the rest looked rather aggrieved.
However, the Major continued his cooking, and when the
beef was done to a turn, he invited his visitors to the
feast, and the evening passed merrily with jests and camp
stories.
After the army went into winter-quarters, Nesmith hav-
ing resigned, T. U. Cornelius was elected Colonel. One
of his orders prohibited firing in camp, an order which as
a good mountaineer the Major should have remembered.
But having been instructed to proceed to Salem without
delay, as bearer of dispatches, the Major committed the
" MARKING TIME."
511
oiTor of firing his gun to see if it was in good condition
for a trip through the enemy's country. Shortly after he
received a message from his Colonel requesting him to
repair to his tent. The Colonel received him politely, and
invited him to breakfast with him. The aroma of cofiee
Diacle this invitation peculiarly acceptable — for luxuries
^vere scarce in camp — and the breakfast proceeded for
some time very agreeably. When Meek had breakfasted,
Colonel Cornelius took occasion to inquire if the Major
had not heard hi^ order against firing in camp. " Yes,"
said Meek. "Then," said the Colonel, "I shall be
obliged to make an example of you."
While Meek stood aghast at the idea of vanishment, a
guard appeared at the door of the tent, and he heard
what his punishment was to be, " Mark time for twenty
minutes in the presence of the whole regiment."
"When the command "forward! was given," says Meek,
"you might have seen somebody step off lively, the offi-
cer counting it off, 'left, left.' But some of the regiment
grumbled more about it than I did. I just got my horse
and my dispatches and left for the lower country, and
when I returned I asked for my discharge, and got it."
And here ends the career of our hero as a pubhc man.
The history of the young State, of which he is so old a
pioneer furnishes ample material for an interesting volume,
and will sometime be written by an abler than our sketchy
pen. One thing only it occurs to us to state in connec-
tion with it, that while riany Northern men went, as Gen.
Lane did, into the rebellion against the Government, our
nol)lcr Virginian was ever sternl}'- loyal.
The chief excitement of Col. Meek's life at present, is
ill his skirmishes with the Nazerene and other preachers
in his neighborhood. They seem not to be able to see
him treading so gently the downhill of life, when they
33
!;i|Si
I i
512
END OF MEEK S PUBLIC CAREER,
fe
II
kf;
fear he may " go to the pit " prepared for mountaiii-iimn,
In this state of mind they preach at him on every possible
occasion, whether suitable or not, and usually he takes it
I pleasantly enough. But when their attacks become too
■ personal, he does as did the bear to whom he likened Gen.
Wool, he "hits one a claw that silences him." ,...,j,r,j,>,,
Being very much annoyed on one occasion, not very
long since, by the stupid and vulgar L^peech of a
"preacher " whom he complimented by going to hear, he
deliberately marched up to the preacher's desk, took the
frightened little orator on his hip, and carried him out of
the house, to the mingled horror, amazement, and amuse-
ment of the congregation.
We think that a man who at fifty-eight is able to per-
form such a feat, is capable of achieving fresh laurels, and
need not retire upon those he has won.
(
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fri :.
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i . ■., . .-,.y:, |,l.,,J,i,' ■l^Jd'^ltf
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THE NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD.
513
.•M>: r ,'
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v. J .:•.■'[ '• J' ')'■;'/ itjr, I ij^/\.^;
CHAPTER XLV.
';ji»
It was no part of the original intention of the author
of the foregoing narrative to extend the work beyond
the personal adventures of one man, and such portions
of collateral, history as were necessary to a perfect under-
standing of the times and events spoken of But since
the great interest which the public have taken in the
opening of the first Pacific Railroad has become apparent,
it lias been deemed expedient to subjoin some facts con-
cerning the Western Division of the Northern Pacific Rail-
road, now in contemplation, and to become a reality,
probably, within an early day.
The Northern Pacific Road will have its eu"tern end
somewhere on Lake Superior, and its western term'-'us at
a point on Puget's Sound not yet determined. As that
portion of the road lying west of Fort Union, on the
Missouri River, traverses much of the country spoken of
iu the adventures of the fur-traders, as well as all the
northern part of what was once the Oregon Territory,
whose early history we have already given, it will not be
found altogether irrelevant to enter into a brief descrip-
tion of the country so soon to be opened to the traveling
public. Hitherto we have roamed it in imagination as
the fur-traders did, bent only on beaver-^kins and adven-
ture. Now we will briefly consider it as a country fit for
the permanent settlement of industrious Peoples seeking
homes for themselves and the coming generations.
li
i)
^^SBf
614
WESTERN OREGON.
Western Oregon. — To commence with the oldest set-
tled portion of the original Oregon Territory, we will
first describe that portiofi of the present State of Oreo'on
technically known as Western Oregon. All that portion
of the State of Oregon lying Avest of the Cascade Moun-
tains, is comprised in three principal valleys — the Walla-
met,* the Umpqua, and the Rogue Ptiver Valleys — and in
a narrow strip of country lying along the coast, and sepa-
rated from the valleys by the Coast range of mountains.
These two ranges of mountains, the Cascades, high and
almost inaccessible on the east, and the Coast range, sepa-
rating it from the sea on the west, make of Western Ore
gon a country with a very peculiar geography. With
the Columbia River for a northern boundary, and with
three transverse ranges of mountains to the south, sepa-
rating the several valleys, the situation of Western Oregon
is isolated and unique.
The Wallamet River takes its rise in the Cascade Moun-
tains, flowing westwardly for some distance, when it takes
a course almost directly north, and falls into the Columbia
in about btitude 45° 30', and longitude 45° 40'. The
whole length of this river is probably not over one hun-
dred and seventy-five miles ; and the extent of its valley
proper is in the neighborhood of one hundred and twenty-
five miles in length, by from sixty to eighty in breadth.
Numerous tributaries flow into the Wallamet from either
side, making the country both fertile and agreeable.
The Wallamet Valley is mostly open prairie land, ready
for the plowshare. At the northern end of it, however,
and within a few miles of the Columbia, there are dense
forests of fir, pine, yew, and cedar, on all the high and
dry lands, while the bottom-lands along the streams are
* Incorrectly spelled on the maps, WiUamette.
THE WALLAMET VALLEY.
515
covered with a fine growth of oak, ash, maple, cotton-
wood, alder, and willow. But as we travel southward
from the Columbia, the timber along the Wallamet be-
comes less dense, until finally we come to the beautiful
open prairies, only half hidden from view by a thin fringe
of low trees, and picturesquely dotted here and there by
oToves of oak and fir intermingled. ;
The Prairies of Western Oregon do not resemble the
immense flat plains of Illinois ; but are rather gently un-
dulating, and bear a strong likeness to the " oak open-
ings" of Michigan and Wisconsin. Instead of being con-
tinuous levels, they are divided by low ranges of hills,
covered with oak timber, low and spreading, and draped,
like the trees of the Sacramento Valley, with a long
hanging gray moss, that floats lightly on the summer
wind, as if celebrating the delightful mildness and beauty
of the scene.
The Wallamet, although navigable for one hundred and
thirty miles from its mouth, is, like all the rivers west of
the Rocky Mountains, troubled with rapids, and narrowed
in some places to little more than the width of the passing
steamer. In the latter part of summer, steamers cannot
ascend it beyond Salem, the capital of the State. Of its
ten principal tributaries, most of them are navigable for
considerable distances, and all of them furnish abundant
water-power. •• .?>-.,. .«.^-"-..--*-r ....«,...-, .
The Falls of the Wallamet^ about twenty -five miles
from its junction with the Columbia, furnish the greatest
water-power in the State, as also some fine scenery.
Above the falls, the water spreads out into a wide, deep
basin, and runs slowly and smoothly until within a half-
mile of the falls, when its width diminishes, its velocity
iccreases, and in its haste it turns back upon itself, form-
ing dangerous eddies, until at length, forced forward, it
III
616
WESTERN OREGON.
nivA 5IHT
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makes the plunge of more than twenty feet, into a boilinff
whirlpool below, and breaks into foam along a ledge of
volcanic rock stretching from shore to shore. The
spray,
dashed up by the descent of the water, forms a beautiful
rainbow, besides being a means of cooling the hot air of
the summer noon at Oregon City, which is situated aW
the rocky bluffs at this point of the river.
The navigation of the river thus interrupted, formerly
necessitated a portage of a couple of miles at Oregon
City ; but recently the People's Transportation Company
have erected a strong basin on the east side of the river,
which permits their boats to come so close together that
the passengers and freight have only to pass through the
Company's warehouse to be transferred.
The amount of agricultural land in the Wallamet Val-
ley is estimated at about three million acres. This esti-
mate leaves out large bodies of land in the foot-hills of
the mountains, on either side, more suitable for grazing
than for farming purposes. g-i, m -.
Tlie Soil of the Wallamet Valley is of excellent quahty.
Upon the prairies it consists of gray, calcareous, sandy
loam, especially adapted to the cultivation of cereals, par-
ticularly of wheat, barley, and oats. It is exceedingly
mellow and easily worked, and is not affected by drouth.
Along the banks of the river, and the streams tributary
to it, the soil consists of various decomposed earths, sand,
and vegetable matter, deposited there in seasons of freshet,
and is of the most fertile description. The soil of the
foot-hills is a dark clay loam, mixed with vegetable mold
in the small intervening valleys. Excellent grasses are
produced, though this kind of soil suffers more from
drouth than that of the prairies. »-t
. The Climate of the Wallamet FaZZe?/ is mild and agreeable.
The seasons are two, — the wet and the dry. The rainy
THE CLIMATE OF THE WALLAMET VALLEY.
517
soason usually commences in November, although fre-
quently it holds off, except a few light showers, until De-
ceniber. The rains continue pretty constantly until about
the last of January, when there is a clearing up of three
or four weeks. This interval is the real winter season,
and is sometimes cold, with frozen ground, or snow, though
(renerally the Oregon winters are not characterised either
by cold or snow to any great amount. After this "clear
spell " comes a second season of rains which may clear up
by the first of March, or not until April. It is not an un-
usual thing for gardening to be commenced in February ;
but the result of this early gardening is not always sure.
Whci- the rains of winter have passed, there are occa-
sional showers until the first of July, after which there is
a dry period of four months. This dry season instead of
being oppressive, as would be the case in the Atlantic
States, is most delightful. Sufficient moisture is borne in
from the sea, over the tops of the Coast range to make the
air of a fine coolness and freshness, and not enough to
make it humid. Thus there is a fine, dry, cool air, with a
moderate temperature, and a dry warm earth, which makes
an Oregon summer the most charming season to be expe-
rienced in any part of the world. The nights are always
cool enough to make a blanket necessary. The mornings
bright and not too hot — the heated term during dog-days
only extending over the hours from 12 M. to 4 P. M.
That a climate such as this must be healthful is undeni-
able. During the falling of the rains there is little or no
sickness. Just after the rain ceases falling, and before the
earth becomes dry, the rapid evaporation causes colds and
coughs to the careless or the inexperienced. Through the
dry season there is little sickness except in certain locali-
ties where, as in all new countries, malaria is formed by
the exposure to the sun of new or submerged soils.
518
WESTERN OREGON.
■■■
■ ■
• i!
^ f
;
One of the faults, so to speak, of Western Oregon is
its mildness of climate. The af^ricultural population are
prone to be negligent in providing for that irregular, and
uncertainly certain occasional visitation, a " hard winter."
Therefore the stock-raiser who has his sevei-al hundred
head of cattle and hor.scs ranging his one or two thousand
acres of uplands, and who, trusting in Providence, makes
no sufficient provision for a month or six weeks of feed-
ing, is liable once in five to eight years, to lose nearly all
of his stock. T)id this same stock-raiser have to get his
cattle througli seven months of winter as many eastern
farmers do, he might come at last to be willing to provide
for the possible six weeks. Cattle in Oregon generally
look poor in the spring, because the farmers allow them
to shift for themselves all through the rainy season, which
they should not do. For this reason. Western Oregon, al-
though naturally the best of dairy countries, furnishes lit-
tle butter and cheese, and that often of a poor quality.
An influx of Central New York dairymen would greatly
benefit the state, and develop one of its surest means of
wealth.
The Productions of the Wallamet Valley are wheat, oats,
barley, rye, wool, and fruits. All of the grains grow
abundantly, and are of unusual excellence. The same is
true of such fruits a.s apples, pears, plums, cherrie?, cur-
rants, gooseberries, strawberries, blackberries, raspberries,
etc. In fact all fruits do well in Western Oregon, except
grapes, peaches, apricots, nectarines, and that class of
fruits which love a dry and hot climate. Grapes and
peaches can be raised with sufficient care, but are not a
natural crop like the first mentioned fruits. Corn is not
raised as a crop, on account of the cool nights, which are
not favorable to its ripening. .. ■''♦:• :<;..': ' '-^^hm
The Untpqiia Valley is that portion of Western Oregon
TUE COAST COUNTRY.
519
next south of the Wallamct Valley, being divided from it
by a range of mountains bearing tlio Indian name of Cala-
pooya. It is a region not so well fitted for grain-raising
as tlic Wallamet valley, but is perhaps superior as a fruit-
growing and wool-raising section. The valley is watered
by the Umpqua River, and is broken up into numerous
hills and valleys, in the most picturesque manner. It is
one of the most beautiful portions of the Pacific Coast,
being rolling, well, without being densely wooded, and
having a very agreeable climate, with rather less rain than
Mis in the lower altitude of the Wallamet.
The Rogue River Valley is another division of Western
Oregon, divided from the Umpqua vnlley by a range of
mountains bearing the name of Umpqua. It resembles
the country just described in general, but has a climate
which is a happy mixture of Californian dryness and Oro-
gonian moisture. It is not considered a grain-growing coun-
try to any great extent ; not from any inadaptability of
the soil, but because it is a very superior grazing and fruit-
growing country, and has also a considerable mining noto-
riety. It is separated from northern California by the
Liskiyou range of mountains, and watered by the Rogue
River and its northern tributaries.
The Coast Country consists of a strip of land from five
to twelve miles wide, lying between the westernmost range
of mountains in Oregon, and the sea. It contains several
counties, whose chief agricultural merits consist in the ex-
cellence of their grasses and vegetables. Fruit too, grows
very well in the Coast counties. Hops and honey, as well
as butter, are among their chief farming products. But
the greatest wealth of the Coast counties is probably to be
derived from the heavy forests of timber which cover the
mountain sides ; and from the mines of coal and copper
which underlie them. . ,m^s<i::\
520
WESTKUX OREGON.
1
1:
: , '
A number of points have already become quite famous
for business along the coast ; Coose Bay for its coal und
lumber; Tilamook for its oysters; and Yaquina for its
good harborage, and easy access through a fine natural
pass to the heart of the Wallainet valley. The port of
Umpqua once promised to become a point of some; imjwt-
ance, but latterly has fallen into neglect from the difiioulty
of communicating thence with the interior.
The climate of the Coast counties is cooler and more
moist than that of the valleys to the eastward, on account
of their contiguity to the sea. Their soil is deep, black,
and rich, supporting an immense growth of shrubbery,
and ferns from ten to fourteen feet in height. The prai-
rie spots are covered with grass, and so are the hill-sides
wherever the timber is not too dense. Though the mean
temperature of the Coast counties is lower than that of the
interior, it is also more even ; and the sea-fogs in summer
as well as the rains in winter serve to keep the natural
grasses in excellent condition. In short every circum-
stance seems to point to the Coast counties of Oregon as
the great dairy region of the Pacific Coast, as the valleys
of the interior are the granaries, and the hill-sides the
sheep-pastures.
Good feed the year round, grain enough for the wants
of the farmer, plenty of cold mountain water, abundance
of timber, plenty of game and fish, are all inducements to
the settler who wishes to make himself a permanent home
on the Pacific Slope. These, added to the wealth yet to
be developed in mines and lumber at every opening where
a vessel of a hundred tons can enter, make the future of
these now almost vacant Coast counties look inviting.
• Resume of the Soil^ Climate and Resources of Western
Oregon. — From the foregoing general description of West-
ern Oregon it will be seen that the country lying between
ROIL, CLIMATR, nESOUIVES.
521
the Cascade Mountains and the Coast range, consists of
one valley containing about as much agricultural land of
the best quality as would make a State of the size of Con-
necticut, and two other smaller valleys, with a less ])ropor-
tioii of farming land, and a greater proportion of hill and
piistiire lands. Also that between the Coast range and
the ocean is a strip of country wide enough for a tier of
counties, peculiarly adapted to grazing purposes, yet not
without considerable arable land. '■■•■■
No one can survey the Wallaraet Valley without being
struck with its beauty and its fertility, and nniny are found
who pronounce it the most beautiful sj)ot in America. Its
beauty consists in the agreeable intermixture of level or
rolling prairies, with ranges of low hills, dotted with oak
timber, in the multitude of its winding rivers, along which
grow a skirting of graceful trees, and in the grandeur of
the mountains which guard it alike from the heat of the
eastern deserts, and the cold of the northern ocean. Its
fertility is evident from the mighty forests which mantle
the hills in everlasting green, and from the grassy plains
which year after year clothe the valley with renewed ver-
dure, as well as from the golden harvest fields which man
has interspersed among the universal green. r';-s'>;i,
The question which first suggests itself is concerning
the durability of the soil which picjduces so well in a wild
state. A sketch of the history of agriculture in Oregon
will serve to point to an answer. ••'^^"--••^" ';*•
Many portions of Oregon have been cultivated for a
period of twenty-five years without any of those aids to
the soil, or that care in preparation and cultivation which
is thought necessary to keep up the quality of soils in
other farming States. This thriftless mode of farming was
the result, partly of an absence of laborers and good
forming utensils, for the first fifteen years of the occupa-
522
WESTERN OREGON.
tion of Oregon by a farming community. From the neces-
sity of poor funning grew tlie habit. It was found that tluj
earth would continue to produce Y/hon only half-cultivated
hence farmers grew indolent from too great security. Tho
great regularity of the seasons too, by which the maturiiiu
of crops became a certainty, contributed to this general
indillerence, for it is an established fact that in order to
work well, men must be in some sort compelled to work.
Another reason why farmers have not put themselves
upon their mettle in a generous emulation, was, that for
many years farm products were worth little or nothing for
want of a market. All these reasons conspired to confirm
a habit of indifferent cultivation, which accident and the
condition of the country first forced upon them. Yet
these same lands do not appear to have suffered very ma-
terially from this long course of impoverishment. yr^- ,
Yet another cause of poor farming has been in the fact
of so large bodies of land having been held as sing] 3 farms.
It is impossible, of course, for one family to cultivate a
mile square of land. Hence a little grain was scratched
in on one portion of the claim, and a little more on another,
and till so scattered, and carelessly done that no first-rate
crops CO aid possibly be obtained.
The soil of the prairies is of a dark gray color, is mel-
low, and not affected by drouth. It is especially adapted
to cereals, and grows vegetables and fruits well, but not
so well as the more alluvial soil formed immediately along
the banks of the rivers and streams. It is found, too, that
thc.u portion of the prairie which grows ferns, and the land
which skirts the oak groves, or has been clean i of tim-
ber, is more favorable to fruit-growing than the more
compact soil of the prairie. The timbered lands every
where are productive, excepting occasional clay ridges
where pines are found. The prairies still furnish grass in
SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES.
523
From the ncccs-
ras found that tlio
Ij half-ciiltivateil
It security. The
lich the maturiii"
to this geneml
that in order to
mpellcd to work,
t put themselves
on, was, that for
tie or nothing for
spired to confirm
accident and the
pon them. Yet
uffered very ina-
shment.
been in the fact
d as sing] i farms.
y to cultivate a
1 was scratched
nore on another,
that no first-rate
•ay color, is mel-
pccially adapted
ts well, but not
mediately along
; found, too, that
'ns, and the land
clean d of tim-
than the more
ed lands every-
nal clay ridges
furnish grass in
abuiuhincc for hay, but not of such quality nor in such
(juantity as the swampH, swales, and beaver-dams nejir the
rivers and in the heavy timber when drained and cleared.
Of tlie several varieties of soil in Western Oregon,
tliere are none that are not sufficiently productive to in-
vite luljor witli a promise of reward. The whole face of
the country is productive, and when ver the hillsides are
not too steep to pitch a tent, those things needed by man
may be made to grow abundantly.
Climate, however, and the shape of the country govern
?iieii in their selection of occupations. The grain-farmer
;,ill keep to the valleys; the fruitgrower will occujiy the
gentle slopes of the lowest hills ; the stock-raiser will set-
tle among the foot-hills, and take his sheep to the moun-
tains; while the dairy-man will seek those spots whore
grass is good for the longest period of time, and where
the temperature favors the making of good, solid and
sweet butter and cheese.
Tlie nights in Western Oregon are always cool, and sleep
becomes a regular refreshment. It is owing to the low
temperature of the nights that corn and some varieties of
fruit have commonly failed. However the proper cultiva-
tion Avill yet produce thone things in a sufficient abundance.
Good corn has been raised in Western Oregon, and pciiches
of splendid size and flavor occasionally find their way to
market. Apples, cherries, and plums of unequalled size
and e.^cellence grow in astonishing profusion.
The winters of Western Oregon, though rainy, are gen-
erally mild. The principal hardship of the rainy season
consists in simply enduring the monotony of the dull sky
and constant rain. It is, however, a favorable climate for
the farmer, since he is not forced to work hard all the
summer to raise what his stock will need to eat through
524
WESTERN OREGON.
the winter. A fortnight's feed usually suffices for tlie
wintcrinf^ of cattle.
The following tables show the comparative mean tem-
peratures of three points in Oregon, with four in other
States ; also the number of rainy days in Oregon and Illi-
nois, respectively :
■■■■diV V.
Table I. — Shoicing Comparative Mean Temperatures.
Time.
a
a
o
fee
O
1
§
O
0
w
H
Q
'o
e
3
1
a
o
to
o
s
a
rt
02
1
3
5
Q
Years of Obstnration ....
n
1*
3J
11?
2
42.33
69.95
42.60
13.06
41.97
H
24
47.61
70.17
50.01
25.83
48.41
•'8
47.3Gi
71.42^
50.34 i
25.8s
48.75
Spring Temperature
Summer "
Autumn "
Winter "
Whole Time "
51.16
61.36
53.55
42.43
52.13
52.19
67.13
5.S.41
39.27
53.00
53.00
70.36
52.21
35.59
52.79
51.34
72.51
53.38
29.80
51.76
59.97
71.08
64.36
52.29
61.93
The only point in Eastern Oregon, whose temperature
is exhibited in this table, is Dalles, which, situated as it
is, immediately at the base of the Cascade Mountains,
does not fairly reprr-sent the temperature of the extensive
valleys farther east, which constitute the agiicultural re
gion of that country. The summer, in most of those val-
leys, as well as on the table-lands, is much waraiov than at
the Dalies. The winter temperature, it will be obsi>rved,
is muc''! higher than that of other States in the ^me lati
tude, while that of the spring is nearly the same, and the
summer not quite so high.
"^ t • T
SOIL, CLIMATE, BESOURCES.
525
suffices for the
,' ,..u'
rative mean tem-
th four in other
Oregon and Illi-
nperaturen.
c
a i ;- '^
3
s
1
Q
a
<
2
H
24
47.61
3i
47.36
2.33
.59.97
9.95
71.08
70.17
71.42
2.60
64.36
50.01
50.34
3.06
52.29
25.83
25.88
1.97
61.93
48.41
48.75
ose temperature
h, situated as it
mde Mountains,
of the extensive
agricultural re
ost of thow val-
warmov than at
ill l>e oKwH'ved,
u the ^me lati
« same, aud the
T.tui-E Jl.— Showing (he Number of Rainy Days during the Winter, nt Astoria,
Oirtjon, Widlaintt Vallrij, On-gou, and Peoria, Illinois, respectively.
Month.
^ Xuvcmbcr . . .
I Ui'cember . . .
Jaiiiiiiry ....
February . . .
Total
Astoria, Oregon.
vull^v. c).! ^ *■"'•"'• '"•
1857-8
1858-9
J 859-60
1856-7
1856-7
1857-8
21
16
19
9
9
16
25
14
15
13
10
7
17
19
19
15
4
6
9
20
17
70
6
10
8
72
69
43
83
37
This table includes all rainy days, without reference to
whether it rained all day, or only a part. It also includes
snowy days, very few of which are seen in Oregon, in an
ordinary winter. ,/•■,.-,•■•.■,-. -,■,., ;,.,.. ».. „,,...,,; .„r, ..,,...;
The climate of Oregon has proven to be a healthful one
(luring a thirty years' residence of some of the earliest
missionaries and settlers. So far as natural causes are con-
cerned, there appears to be none for the promotion of
disease, if we except the tendency to pulmonary and rheu-
matic diseases for which both California and Oregon are
famed, and which no doubt is to be credited to the cold
winds from the ocean. These winds in themselves are a
siinitary provision of nature, and servo to give the Pacific
coast a climate generally free from mia>5raatic and pestilen-
tial diseases ; but it is necessary for sensitive constitiitioiis
10 guard against the rapid change of temperature which
they effect when they come ."sweeping in from the sea,
■suddonly displacing the warm air of the valleys. With
IMvper ca>\\ and attention to the most manifest laws of
he.iHh, the physical man has a bitter opportunity for mag-
nitioont development, on the Pacific cot.->t, than in any
other part of the Amer'oan continent
Whllo the wintei's of Western Oregon are dull
62()
WESTERN OREGON.
agreeable, the summers arc proportionately deliohifQl
The general temperature of tlie days is mild and a<Teea-
])le, the air bright and clear, warmer in the aftornoons
than in the mornings, invariably ; yet falling again to an
invigorating coohiess in the evening. Sultriness is almost
never experienced in this part of Oregon. The greatest
heat of summer has not that enervating effect which the
summer-heats have in the Atlantic States. It is frequently
remarked by the farmers here that their cattle can cudure
to work right on under the hottest sun of summer with-
out showing signs of exhaustion, as they would have done
in those States from which they were brought.
From the peculiarities of the soil, seasons, and climate
of Western Oregon, it becomes necessary for the farmer
to practice modes of culture especially adapted to it, and
to conform to other seed-time than that he may have been
accustomed to in other States. Much can undoubtedly
be learned from old Oregon farmers ; but a careful obser-
vation from year to year, with a little judicious experi-
ment, will, we hope, develop among the newer settlers
a better manner of farming than that formerly practiced
in Oregon, when one year's cultivation was made to an-
swer for three years' crops— the two latter of which were
of course self-sown. ,
While the yield of wheat is perhaps no greater than
that of the Genesee valley, or the rich prairies of Indiana
or southwestern Michigan, the crop is fnr more sure, from
the absence of insects, rust, winter-killing, etc. Perhaps
not more than twice since the ''ettlement of the W allamet
Valley has the wheat crop been injured by rain in harvest
time. As a genernl thing the straw is short and stout, and
^ the grain is never laid down by summer tempests of wind
and rain.
Peas sown broadcast, with or without oats, bring a pro-
SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES.
527
•iiatcly delightful.
3 mild and agroea-
in the afternoons
ailing again to an
yultriness is almost
■on. The greatest
g effect which the
5. It is frequently
' cattle can endure
1 of summer with-
■ would have done
rough t.
lasons, and chmate
uy for the farmer
adapted to it, and
he may have been
can undoubtedly
ut a careful obser-
judicious experi-
he newer settlers
brmerly practiced
was made to an-
er of which were
no greater than
)rairies of Indiana
ir more sure, from
ng, etc. Perhaps
t of the "W allamet
by rain in harvest
ort and stout, and
tempests of wind
(I'.ict about equal to wheat; and are the best crop for fat-
•, iiiuf hogs, rcquiri;ig little labor, and producing a fine
(Hiality of pork by turning the hogs into the field in the
fall and letting t^era fatten there. Bacon brings a high
price in the mines, and is one of the most valuable posses-
sions of the farmer. The rapid increase of sheep in Ore-
iron gives the sheep-raiser a large surplus every year
above what he can afford to keep for their wool, and of
this surplus quite a number every year may be sold for
mutton at home, or driven to the mines, where they com-
mand a good price.
The whole country west of the Rocky Mountains is fa-
vorably adapted to fruit-growing, and no portion of it
more so than Western Oregon. Trees of three years'
srrowth bend to the earth under their burdens of fruit.
Before the tree matures its strength it bears at a rate so
wonderful that without artificial support the branches split
away from the main tree. Apple trees less than two
Inches in diameter, with branches no mor# than three-
quarters of an inch in thickness are so crowded with ap-
ples as to leave very little of the stock visible. We have
counted forty large apples on a limb of the thickness
mentioned above, and no more than four feet and a half
long, — a mere rod. Plum and pear trees bear in the san.o
manner. Cherries are equally prolific, but peaches sel-
dom crowd the tree in Western Oregon, though they do
in Eastern Oregon. Probably the best treatraent to give
young fruit trees in Oregon would be to pull off the great-
er portion of the fruit for the first year or two in order
that the trees might mature their strength. No d(^ubt it
would also add to the flavor of the fruit, though that
seems to be alwaya excellent.
oats, bring a pro-
" Wild iH'iries are very abundant, some of tvIuc4 arc |K*ouliarI} delicious.
Till' bcn-ius are strawburriotf, di'wberrios, whortMbttma, stUlulberries, block aud
528
WESTERN OREGON.
I
yellow raspberries, gooseberries, juneberrios, and cranbemes. The cranlxTrii
are good, but found in abundance only in the vicinity ol'tlie ocean ; tlie june stl
mon, and gooseberries are not particularly desirable ; the dew, sallal, and ra<'
berries are choice, and ((uite abinidant ; and the straw and whortleberries an
c^^'•('lp■.•]y abundant and delicious. The ))rairies may be truly said to be lite
ally red with strawberries, and the timbered openings blue with whortloberrii
in their season. The season of ri[)e strawbtirries is froni three to six wwk
and that of whortleberries irom six to ten weeks. The whortleberry busli,
except in the mountains, like the Unipqua plnm shrub, is >/orne prostrate nm
the earth's grassy covering, from the weight of its delicious fruit. The wil
strawberry of Oregon is larger and better than any we have ever seen, cxcoiii
the largest of the large garden cultivated E iglish strawberry, nie whortlt-
berry has more acidity than those of unshaded growth, growing east of tk
mountains. English gooseberries and currants are cultivated here with suc-
cess."
The native grasses of Western Oregon are blue-gra:5,s,
and red and white clover. The grass formerly grew very
tall on the prairies but has been so much eaten off and
trampled out by numerous herds of cattle, that it is now
much shorter. When sown in favorable situations, time
thy will grow to a height of between five and six feet.
The timbtir of Western Oregon consists of pine, fir,
cedar, oak, spruce, hemlock, cotton-wood, cherry, and
maple. Probably there is no country in the world where
timber grows so strikingly straight and beautiful, and to
such gigantic altitude and dimensions as in Oregon. Two
hundred feet is but a moderate height for the growth of
firs, cedars, and spruce, and they frequently attain a mucl
greater altitude. We have seen elder growing in Oregon
three feet in circumference, and hazel thirty inches in cir-
cumference, and of the height of forty feet. Black alder
and a species of laurel grow to what would be termed, in
most countries, large trees — logs of alder have been ob
tained thirty-two inches in diameter, and of the laurel
four feet in dinmeter. In Western Oregon groves of tini
ber are found skirting and separating prairies ; but the
immense timber districts are mainly confined to the neigh-
BOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES.
529
borliood of the const of the Pacific, to the Coast, Cascade
niid Blue ranges of mountains, and the immediate vicinity
of the rivers.
The fir is seen almost solely on the western slope of the
Cascade Mountains, along the Columbia River from where
it breaks through that range until it passes through the
coast range, on the eastern slope of the Coast Mountains,
and along the rivers and upon the mountains almost any
where between the summits of these two principal ranges.
It is everywhere slightly mixed with spruce, hemlock,
cedar, and yew. The pine is generally found in ridges or
patches by itself, except on the west side of the Coast
range where it grows with hemlock, spruce, and cedar.
WiHow grows along all tht st-f^ams, and acquires consid-
erable size. Ash, oak, maple, cotton-wood, and alder also
grow wherever the ground is low and moist.
The shrubbery of Oregon is very beautiful and in great
variety. There are several varieties of alder, bearing,
sever , light purple, scarlet and orange colored berries.
The , Id cherry is a light and graceful tree, having a
small, clear scarlet fruit, that is very beautiful, and ex-
ceedingly bitter. The tree-whortlebv^rry has a very dimin-
utive leaf, almost round, and a small crimson berry tasting
much like a barberry. There are two smaller whortle-
berry shrubs corresponding to those of the Atlantic States,
called swamp and mountain whortleberries. There are
several varieties of wild cun-ants, one of which is useless
as a fruit, but is most beautiful as a flowering shrub.
White spir3a, and golden honeysuckle thrust their white
or golden blossoms through every thicket, and with the
white syringa and wild rose, festoon the rivtr banks and
hill sides until they seem one bed of bloom. The hand-
some shrubbery, and the abundant wild flowers of Oregon,
atone greatly for the want of greater variety in the forest
m
530
WESTERN OREGON.
tints ; and the case with which flowers may be cuUivated
for the adornment of homes is one of the greatest recom-
mciuhitions of the climate. Nature has been lavish, though
man may be indilferent. If ever a wilderness might be
made to blossom as the rose, that wilderness is Oregon.
Few of the old settlers of Oregon have cared, however,
to take advantage of the facilities allbrded them for beau-
tifying tlieir homesteads, and it is more common to find a
house without garden or shrubbery than with either; a
peculiarity as strange as it is inexcusable.
Though Western Oregon is especially adapted to agri-
cultural and pastoral pursuits, the present indications of
mineral wealth make it almost certain that the miner's
pick, as well as the farmer's plow, must furrow the face of
mother Earth, west of the Cascade Mountains. This dis-
covery was not sought after by the people of Oregon, who
were firmly fixed in their belief that it was as an agricul-
tural and manufacturing State that they were to achieve
their highest destiny. But when gold and silver, iron,
coal, and copper, are knocking for admittance as State re-
sources, they cannot and will not be denied. They will
be accepted as aids to manufactures and commerce ; and
will be taken in connection with forests of splendid tim-
ber and rivers of unfailing water-power, as the means by
which Oregon is to acquire her future status as one of the
most importan States of the ^^nion.
Since the yl )eated tests by which the Santiam gold-
bearing quartz has been found to yield $160 to the ton,
other discoveries have been nnide, and will continue to be
made in the Cascade Mountains. Already the mining
town of Quartzville has started up in the Santiam district,
and another town called Copperopolis, about .ten miles to
the southeast has sprung into existence near the copper
mines. Discoveries of gold have recently been made in
.1
:-^..t»
BOIL, CLIMATE, lUIHOUUt'ES,
r)3i
Clackamas County; but as no actual tost has yet boon
miide of the (quality of tho ores, wo cannot spoak of their
value.
It is sufficient to say that enough is known of the min-
eral resources of Western Oregon to warrant the invest-
nu'iit of large amounts of capital ; and that discoveries
have only just begun to be made.
As to the price of farming lands in the Wallamot valley,
they vary from three to fifteen dollars, including imi)rove-
iiiciits. Many excellent farms may be had at from three
to five dollars per acre ; the owners selling out in order
♦to remove with their children into towns, where they can
bo educated. These lauds in a few years will be worth
fifty dollars per acre, and we trust it will not be long be-
fore the population will be sufficiently dense to insure
good schools throughout the State. The Oregon Central
Railroad, now in course of construction, will do much to
bring out the resources of the interior, and the time is not
fli'itaut when lands in Western Oregon will bring a high
price.
Sheep-raising and Manufacture of 'Woolen Goods. Wm.
Lair Hill, in his prize essay, read before the Oregon State
Fair, for 1862, says: —
A. "
" If Orof;on has a specialty, it is her pre-eminence as a wool-f!;rowing coun-
trj-. Until recently, very little attention has been paid to the matter of sheep-
raising ; but it has now become one of the staple interests of the State. Sheep
tlirive better here than in any other State. Disease amongst them is exceed-
inirly rare, lliey increase here faster than in the east, and the wool is of ex-
cellent quality."
Tn a similar essay, read before the Oregon State Fair
lor 1863, by John Minto, Esq., the following passages oc-
cur:— •
" For the health of sheep, dry upland pasture is necessary. Taking the whole
of Oregon into view, nine-tenths of the State may be pronounced of that char-
WESTERN OUEGON.
I:
t
M
■ r
actor. For xhv. focdinf; nf sheep for wool-riiisin^ piirpows, short swoet grasw 5
and open wiKxlhind pii.Hturcs are deeiiieil best ; and lull ihree-loiirths of'tlicfuir.
liicc of the iStiile is eoniposeil of hills and plains jielilinjj; sneh gnisat's- anil a
hirire portion of it is open woodland. Tor tlie j;rowth of a long, even, stroiw
ami Hi'xilile staple of wool, a mild, even eliniate (with proper feeding) is con.
Bidered l)csf, and tliat ()re<;(jn possesses in a remarkable degree. In fact, the
climate and natural grasses of Oregon seem to be a natural coniljination of the
peeuliarities of England anil Spain, in those partieulars, I'speeially the climate
" Over twenty years ago, Mr. l'»uile, a natm-alist who aecompaniid Connnwlorc
Wilkes' expedition to this eoast gave it as liis opinion that 'the country miwW
lMM;ome famous for its jjrodueticjn of fine wool,' tor the reason that ' the evcnniss
of the climate enables tho fur-bearing animals found here to carry their fmi!
cov(!ring during the summer months, whereas nmler greater variations between
the seasons, the same animals usually shed their furs, or they become mixed
with hair during stnumiir;' aiul for the fin'ther reason that the 'j)hysical gcoiTa-
pliy and natural grasses of tho country nuike it a natural sheep pasture.' f
"Experience goes far to show Mr. Peale's opinion correct. In a convem-
tion betwetai the writer and Mr. Henry I'erkins, Chief Wool Stapler in the
woolen factory at Sali'm, (a gentleman who has IukI a large and varied experi-
ence in assorting wool,) the latter said that he had never handled tlie wool from
any country, which as a whole, was equal to that of Oregon as a combing wool;
and that during a term of three years as wool stapler in a De Laine factory in
Boston, Ma.-s., he deemed that he did well when he could get from the bulk as-
sorted 30 per cent, of wool fit for combing and manufacturing into that fahric,
Of the wool he was then receiving — the crop of 1863, as it came in indis-
criminately— Mr. P. said he could get from TjO to 60 per cent, of good combing
•wool. lie further said if wools were projjcrly assorted here and the combinj
portion graded and baled and marked according to its quality, and shipped to
New Yor!f or Boston, it would soon draw the attention of De Laine manufac-
turers to this country as a source of sui)i)ly for this most valuable kind of wool,
We have further practical proof of the superiority of Oregon wool, in tlie fact
that San Francisco papers as late as July last, quoted Oregon wool as selling
three cents per pound above California wool sold on the same day.
" The fact of the superiority of Oregon wool is an encouraging circumstance
to those engaged, or about to engage in raising it. But they will never reap
tlio full benefit of it so long as they allow the business men of California to put
their crops into market : so long as this is the case, the fact will be used to
spread the fame of California, as a wool-producing country, and so long ivili
Oregon dwell in the shadow of Calitbrnia, and feel the blighting influence.
This is the inevitable result, even without any effort on the part of California
merchants. It gees from their port in their shipping mart ; the buyer cares
no more but to know that he is receiving a good article for his money, and
it would be too much to expect the California merchant to inform his customer
that it was tlie product of another state. * * *
" Tho success of the woolen manufactory at Salem, started under more ad-
Terse circumstances than, it is believed, will ever again exist on this coast, g
NATl'IlAL WKALTII AND UKSOCHCKS.
C)Xi
,|,,iw ]il.ii'ily tliat ii Dc I.niiii' factory would be I'liiiiK-iilly sucffHsfiil licro wluTO
■uili j;( Kills iiri! worn (liroujiho.it tin- yi-ar.*
"Anil lli'Tii is no doubt tliiit ihcrt! is iiiuny n farmer in tlu' Miildlc and WuHt-
,111 Stalls, who, worn down by tlif di'liilitatin},' inlliu-ncci of niiasnialii' rliniati't*,
Koiijil <;<■( a ni-w K-asu of litii by »lianj,'inj,' liis liH'ation and bi-coniin;; a »\ivv\)-
nwr under tlie clear (tkies and pure air of Kast^'rn Orejion. • • » • •
•Tlitrt' are at presmt more prondsinj; indnci'nicnl.s for the ()rtp)n farmer to
mill his attention to the raisiii}; of sheep and wool (where liis lands are of ii
;iiii;il)le kind,) than any other branch of farminjj;, tor tlie reasonM : Ist. That
ill that (Hiui»ation the farmer can {^et alon^ with lesH hired hel|>, which is al-
ways hard to j?et of a relialile kind, and will continue to be, so Ion;; as the dis-
covery of Mi^w gold miiu's continues. 2d. Sheej) eat nearer to the ground and
a jircater variety of plants, and consocpiently retpiire less labor in providing
llicm food than any oilier domestic animal which yields anylhini; like the ro-
lurii wliicli they yield. 3d. There are two products li-om nhetp, tor either of
which there is a greater prospective market than lor any other farm product
we can raise. AVe liave already glanced at tlie condition of the marki't with re-
(;aril to wool. ' It is the only thing raised by the farmers of Oregon that con-
tains enough valuer in proportion to its weight to bear the expense of transjior-
taiiou to the Atlantic States. It is the only product that cannot be raised
ilicaper in the Atlantic States than here. It is the only product of the soil of
()iv;j;()n (gold excepted) which we can send to the Kastern seaboard in ex-
change for the clothing, boots and shoes, machinery, iron, etc., etc., which we
must buy there or elsewhere until we can build up manufiictures of our own.'
Ami manufactures we nnist have, unless we can contentedly remain utterly de-
poniient uf»on the manufacturing skill of other communities, subject to the in-
conveniences of interruption in time of war, and the always increasing cost of
transportation, which, as the producers of the raw material and cousinners of the
manufactured article, we must p.ay all the cost of, according to the amount of
our consum])ti()n. The market for good wool-bearing stock sheep is only to be
incasiurd by the extent of the country yet unoccupied and fit for grazing pur-
jioscs lying between the Pacific Ocean and the western base of the llociky
Jhtuntiiins. The market for mutton will be in accordance with the increase of
1 ; "lation; it car. be produced cheaper and will always sell higher than beef
until tiic country is glutted with wool-bearing flocks.
'•Ore;v)n lies on tlie western edge of an immense extent of country — reach-
ir ' iVoin Mexico to the British line ; from Kansas to the Pacific Ocean — which,
witli he exception of the belt between the Cascade Mountains and the ocean,
iDverod Ijy parts of California, Oregon, and Washington Territory, is fitted lor
j)a>toral pursuits only. She has within her own borders a large portion of tho
hc'st of that natural pasture. Within that, and almost surroimded by it, slio
lias the largest compact body of good wheat land on the Pacific slope ; which,
* Since the above was written a large factory at Oregon City has commenced
manufacturing de laines, and several kinds of cloths. ■• - ^
IHTUllBANCEa — TilK AGKNT MUIIDKIIKIX
portunity ;-ou^ht, and not an altoi
liem, by the politicians of that Tci
'as simply this. A party of lawless wi
I Country, passing over tho Cascade
fakirna Valley, on their way to the
3, found sonic Yakima women di<j^gin<j
30, and abused them. The women
id told the chiefs of the outrage ; and ii
lilty whites and killed several of the
le Indian sub-agent for Washingtoi
village, and instead of judging of th
de use of threats in the name of the I
[lent, saying that an army should be
Ir killing his people. On his return
lollowed and murdered. '■'"
lof an Indian agent was an act which
vcd. Very properly, the case shouk
ice of in a manner to convince the I
ist be punished. But, tempted by
ain, and encouraged by the somewh^
f the white population of Washingt(
nor G. L. Curry, of the latter, at on(
d issued a call for volunteers, withou
ction or assistance of the general G
Dment this was done, it was too late
ls if a torch had been applied to a fi
simultaneously did the Indians from
)cky Mountains, and from the Rocky
thern boundary of Oregon send for
t there was much justification for the
the people, that a combination amo
en secretly agreed to, and that the
sxterminated.
^>.
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PhotDgraphic
Sciences
Corporation
73 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY. M580
(716) 872-4503
»•
A
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444
MEEK ASTONISHES THE NATIVES.
After a pause in which the old gentleman seemed to be
recovering from some great surprise, he requested to see
the credentials of this extraordinary envoy. Still more
surprised ho seemed on discovering for himself that the
personage before him was really a messenger from Orejron
to the government of the United States. But the eftect
was magical. In a moment the bell- rope was pulled, and
in an incredibly short space of time a coach stood at the
door ready to convey the waiting messenger on his way
to Washington. ■ i 7' .'jjiti r-
In the meantime in a conversation with the stage agent,
Meek had explained more fully the circumstances of his
mission, and the agent had become much interested. On
parting, Meek received a ticket to the Ilelay House, with
many expressions of regret from the agent that he could
ticket him no farther.
" But it is all the same," said he ; " you are sure to go
through."
" Or run a train oiF the track," rejoined Meek, as he
was bowed out of the office.
It happened that there were some other passengers
waiting to take the first stage, and they crowded into this
one, glad of the unexpected opportunity, but wondering
at the queer looking passenger to v/hom the agent was so
polite. This scarcely concealed curiosity was all that was
needed to stimulate the mad-cap spirits of our so far "con-
quering hero." Putting his head out of the window just
at the moment of starting, he electrified everybody,
horses included, by the utterance of a war-whoop and yell
that would have done credit to a wild Camanche. Satis
fied with the speed to which this demoniac noise had ex-
cited the driver's prancing steeds, he quietly ensconced
himself in his corner of the coach and waited for his fel-
low passengers to recover from their stunned sensations.
THE VICTEilZED CONDUCTOR.
445.
When their complete recovery had been eircctcd, tliere
followed the usual questioning and explanations, which
ended in the inevitable lionizing that was so much to the
i;i4e of this sensational individual.
Oil the cars at Cumberland, and at the eating-houses,
the messenger from Oregon kept up his sensational char-
acter, indulging in alternate fits of mountain manners, and
airiiin assuming a disproportionate amount of grandeur ;
but in either view proving himself very amusing. By the
time the train reached the Relay House, many of the pas-
sengers had become acquainted with Meek, and were pre-
pared to understand and enjoy each new phase of his
many-sided comicality. • ■ ' • •. . .
The ticket with which the stage agent presented him,
(lead-headed him only to this point. Here again he must
make his poverty a jest, and joke himself through to
I'usliiiigton. Accordingly when the conductor came
tluough the car in which he, with several of his new
aci[uaintances were sitting, demanding tickets, he was
obliged to tap his blanketed passenger on the shoulder
to attract his attention to the " ticket, sir !"
'•//'( Ico any me ca^ hanch ^^^ said Meek, starting up
and addressing him in the Snake tongue.
"Ticket, sir!" repeated the conductor, staring.
" Ka hum pa, hatich f returned Meek, assuming a look
which indicated that English was as puzzling to him, as
Snake to other people.
Finding that his time would be wasted on this singular
passenger, the conductor went on through the train ; re-
tinning after a time with a fresh demand for his ticket.
But Meek sustained his character admirably, and it was
only through the excessive amusement of the passengers
that the conductor suspected that he was being made the
'Hibject of a practical joke. At this stage of affairs it was
W.
44G
ARRIVAL AT WASHINGTON
privately explained to him who and what his waggish cus-
tomer was, and tickets were no more mentioned durini;
the journey.
On the arrival of the train at Washington, the heart of
our hero became for a brief moment of time " very httle,'
He felt that the importance of his mission demanded some
dignity of appearance — some conformity to establislied
rules and precedents. But of the latter he knew abso-
lutely nothing ; and concerning the former, he realized
the absurdity of a dignitary clothed in blankets and a
wolf-skin cap. ' Joe Meek I must remain,' said he to him-
self, as he stepped out of the train, and glanced along the
platform at the crowd of porters with the names of their
hotels on their hat-bands. Learning from inquiry that
Coleman's was the most fashionable place, he decided that
to Coleman's he would go, judging correctly that it was
best to show no littleness of heart even in the matter af
hotels.
1
THE DINNER AT COLEMAN's.
447
CHAPTER XXXIX.
in
1848. When Meek arrived at Coleman's it was the
dinner hour, and following the crowd to the dining saloon,
he took the first seat he came to, not without being very-
much stared at. He had taken his cue and the staring
was not unexpected, consequently not so embarrassing as
it might otherwise have been. A bill of fare was laid be-
side his plate. Turning to the colored waiter who placed
it there, he startled him first by inquiring in a low growl-
ing voice — ,., -^ ,i .^>.-^l.
" What's that boy ?" » :..:v.
"Bill of fare, sah," replied the "boy," who recognized
the Southerner in the use of that one word,
"Read!" growled Meek again. "The people in my
country can't read."
Though taken by surprise, the waiter, politely obedient,
proceeded to enumerate the courses on the bill of fare.
When he came to game
"Stop thar, boy!" commanded Meek, "what kind of
game ?"
"Small game, sah."
" Fetch me a piece of antelope," leaning back in his
chair with a look of satisfaction on his face.
" Got none of that sah ; don't know what that ar' sah."
"Don't know!" with a look of pretended surprise. "In
ray country antelope and deer ar' small game ; bear and
bulTalo ar' large game. I reckon if you haven't got one,
20
418
THE MESSENGER CREATES A SEXSATION.
i 1
you liavn't got the other, either. In that case you may
fetch me some beef."
The waiter disappeared grinning, and soon returned with
the customary thin and small cdt, which Meek eyed at first
contemptuously, and then accepting it ii) the light of a
sample swallowed it at two mouthfuls, returning his plate
to the waiter with an approving smile, and saying loud
enough to be overheard by a score of people
" Boy, that will do. Fetch me about four pounds of the
same kind." . .
By this time the blanketed beef-eater was the recipient
of general attention, and the "boy" who served him com-
prehending with that quickness which distinguishes ser-
vants, that he had no ordinary backwoodsman to deal with,
was all the time on the aJert to make himself useful. Peo-
ple stared, then smiled, then asked each other " who is it?"
loud enough for the stranger to hear. Meek looked nei-
ther to the right nor to the left, pretending not to hear
the whispering. When he had finished his beef, he again
addressed himself to the attentive " boy."
" That's better meat than the old mule I eat in the moun-
tains."
Upon this remark the whispering became more general,
and louder, and smiles more frequent.
" What have you got to drink, boy?" continued Meek,
still unconscious. " Isn't there a sort of wine called—
some kind of pain ?"
" Champagne, sah ?"
" That's the stuff, I reckon ; bring me some."
While Meek drank his champagne, with an occasional
aside to his faithful attendant, people laughed and won-
dered " who the devil it was." At length, having finished
his wine, and overhearing many open inquiries as to his
identity, the hero of many bear-fights slowly arose, and
RECOGXIZKI) HV SKNATOIl UXDKRWOOD.
449
case you may
eat in the moun-
addressing the company through the beforc-incntioiicd
"boy," said:
" You want to know who I am ?"
"If you please, sah ; yes, if you please, sah, for the
siike of these gentlemen present," replied the " boy," an-
swering for the company.
"Wall then," proclaimed Meek with a grandiloquent
air quite at variance with his blanket coat and unkempt
hair, yet which displayed his fine person to advantage, "I
am Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary from
the Republic of Oregon to the Court of the United
States!"
With that he turned and strode from the room. He
had not proceeded far, however, before he was overtaken
by a party of gentlemen in pursuit. Senator Underwood
of Kentucky immediately introduced himself, calling the
envoy by name, for the dispatch from St. Louis had pre-
pared the President and the Senate for Meek's appearance
in Washington, though it had not advised them of his
style of dress and address. Other gentlemen were intro-
duced, and questions followed questions in rapid succes-
sion. "''''"■ .■''
When curiosity was somewhat abated, Meek expressed
a wish to see the President without delay. To Under-
wood's question as to whether he did not wish to make his
toilet before visiting the White House, his reply was,
"business first, and toilet afterwards."
"But," said Underwood, "even your business can wait
long enough for that."
" No, that's your mistake. Senator, and Til tell you why :
I can't dress, for two reasons, both good ones. I've not
got a cent of money, nor a second suit of clothes."
The generous Kentuckian offered to remove the first of
4
m
ifcf
450
VISIT TO THE WHITE HOUSE.
: *>'^.
the ()l)jcctions on the spot, but Meek declined. "I'll see
the President first, and hear what he has to say about my
mission." Then calling a coach from the stand, he spran;;
into it, answering the driver's question of where he would
be taken, with another inquiry.
" Whar should a man of my style want to go? — to the
White House, of course!" and so was driven away amid
the general laughter of the gentlemen in the portico at
Coleman's, who had rather doubted his intention to pay
his respects to the President in his dirty blankets.
He was admitted to the Presidential mansion by a mu-
latto of about his own age, with whom he remembered
playing w^hen a lad, for it must be remembered that the
Me(3ks and Polks were related, and this servant had grown
up in the family. On inquiring if he could see the Presi-
dent, he was directed to the office of the private Secretary,
Knox Walker, also a relative of Meek's on the mother's
side.
On entering he found the room filled with gentlemen
waiting to see the President, each when his turn to be ad-
mitted should arrive. The Secretary sat reading a paper,
over the top of which he glanced but once at the new
comer, to ask him to be seated. But Meek was not in the
humor for sitting. He had not traveled express for more
than two months, in storm and cold, on foot and on horse-
back, by day and by night, with or without food, as it
chanced, to sit down quietly now and wait. So he took a
few turns up and down the room, and seeing that the
Secretary glanced at him a little curiously, stopped and
Sjaid: K .
k "I should like to see the President immediately. Just
tell him if you please that there is a gentleman from Ore-
gon waiting to see him on very important business."
^if^'
^:0.' .iJi.Lvj; .>;uf ilOJ,
1
INTEUVIEW WITH I'KE.SIDENT I'OLK.
451
At tlio word Orr.fjnn, the Secretary s[)rinig up, diislicd
his paper to the ground, and crying out "Uncle Joe!"
Clinic forward with botli liands extended to greet his long
lost relative.
"Take care, Knox! don't come too close," Raid Meek
stojjpiiig back, "I'm ragged, dirty, and — lousy."
But Walker seized his cousin's hand, without seeming
fear of the consequences, and for a few moments there
was an animated exchange of questions and answers, which
Meek at last interrupted to repeat his request to be admit-
ted to the President without delay. Several times the Sec-
retary turned to leave the room, but as often came back
with some fresh inquiry, until Meek fairly refused to say
another word, until he had delivered his dispatches.
When once the Secretary got away he soon returned
v.itli a request from the President for the appearance of
t!ie Oregon messenger, all other visitors being dismissed
for that day. Polk's reception proved as cordial as Wtilk-
ii- r
•'■is
452 INTRODUCED TO THE LADIES DADLY FUIGIITENED.
iff
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er's had been. He seized the hand of Iiia newly found
relative, and welcomed him in his own name, us well us
that of messenger from the distant, much loved, and loii"
neglected Oregon. The interview lasted for a couple of
hours. Oregon affairs and family alfairs were talked over
together; the President promising to do all for Oregon
that he could do ; at the same time he bade Meek make
himself at home in the Presidential mansion, with true
southern hospitality.
But Meek, although he had carried off his poverty and
all his deficiencies in so brave a style hitherto, felt his as-
surance leaving him, when, his errand 2)erformed, he stood-
in the presence of rank and elegance, a mere mountain-
man in ragged blankets, whose only wealth consisted of
an order for five hundred dollars on the Methodist mission
in New York, unavailable for present emergencies. And
so he declined the hospitalities of the White House, say
ing he "could make himself at home in an Indian wigwam
in Oregon, or among the Rocky Mountains, but in the
residence of the chief magistrate of a great nation, he felt
out of place, and ill at ease." ' r ,
Polk, however, would listen to no refusal, and still fur-
ther abashed his Oregon cousin by sending for Mrs. Polk
and Mrs. Walker, to make his acquaintance. Says Meek:
"When I heard the silks rustling in the passage, I felt
more frightened than if a hundred Elackfeet had whooped
in my ear. A mist came over my eyes, and when Mrs.
i Polk spoke to me I couldn't think of anything to say in
return."
^* But the ladies were so kind and courteous that he soon
' began to see a little, though not quite plainly while their
visit lasted. Before the interview with the President and
his family was ended, the poverty of the Oregon envoy
became known, which led to the immediate supplying of
T • '^'T '(3
UIGIITENED.
THE TWO OREflON REPRESENTATIVES.
453
ision, with true
all his wants. Major Polk was called in ami introduced ;
ftiid to him was deputed the business of seeing Meek
"fot up" in a style creditable to himself and his relations.
Meek avers that when he had gone through the hands of
thol)arbcr and tailor, and surveyed himself in a full length
mirror, he was at first rather embarrassed, Ix'ing under the
impression that ho was being introduced to a fashionable
and decidedly good-looking gentleman, before whose over.
j)()\vcring style he was disposed to shrink, with the old fa-
miliar feeling of being in blankets.
But Meek was not the sort of man to bo long in getting
used to a situation however novel or difficult. In a very
short time he was au fait in the customs of the capital.
Ilis perfect frankness led people to laugh at his errors as
eccentricities ; his good looks and natural honltomie pro-
cured him plenty of admirers ; while his position at the
White House caused him to be envied and lionized at
once.
On the day following his arrival the President sent in a
message to Congress accompanied by the memorial from
the Oregon legislature and other documents appertaining
to the Oregon cause. Meek was introduced to Benton,
Oregon's indefatigable friend, and received from hira the
kindest treatment ; also to Dallas, President of the Senate ;
Douglas, Fremont, Gen. Houston, and all the men who
had identified themselves with the interests of the West.
It will be remembered that only a short time previous
to the Waiilatpu massacre a delegate had left Oregon for
Washington, by ship around Cape Horn, who had been
accredited by the governor of the colony only, and that
the legislature had subsequently passed resolutions expres-
sive of their disapproval of "secret factions," by which
was meant the mission party, whose delegate Mr. Thorn-
ton was.
I . \
%.\
i
454
THE OULUON 15ILL IN TIIK SliNATB.
}
1
V
' ;ia
r--
'"'"■
i
'^-.S
It so hnpponod that, by rcascni of the commander of tlie
Porfmaontli having assuinod it to be a duty to cc)nvcy Mr.
Tlioriitou IVoi)' La Paz, where through the iiifidehty of tlio
Captain of the Whiftou., he was stranded, he was eimblud
to reaeli the States early in the Spring, arriving in facta
week or two before Meek reached Washington. Thus
Oregon had two representatives, althougli not entitled to
any : nor had either a right to a seat in either House; yd
to one this courtesy was granted, while the two togetlier
controlled more powerful influences than were ever before
or since brought to bear on the fate of any single terri-
tory of the United States. While Mr. Thornton sat air ig
Senators as a sort of consulting member or referee, but
without a vote; Meek had the private ear of the Presi-
dent, and mingled freely among members of both Houses,
in a social character, thereby exercising a more immediate
influence than his more learned coadjutor. Happily their
aims were not dissimilar, although their characters were;
and the proper and prudish mission delegate, though he
might often be shocked by the private follies of the legis-
lative messenger from Oregon, could find no fault with the
manner in which he discharged his duty to their common
country.
The bill to admit Oregon as a tei-ritory which had been
so long before Congress, and failed only because certain
southern Senators insisted on an amendment allowing slave
property to be introduced into that territory^, was again
under discussion in the Senate. The following extract
from a speech of Benton's, delivered May 31st, before the
Senate, shows how his energies were taxed in support of
the Oregon cause — a cause which he had fostered from its
infancy, and which he never deserted until • his eiforts to
extend the United States government to ^ he Pacific Onean
were crowned with success : — "-
EXTUACT FROM HLNTON's OUEOON Sl'EEClI.
455
11
" Only three or four yean jiro, the whole United 8tftt«'8 Heemed to Iw in-
llaim il with ii ilcsin' to jjet pofisesnion of On'f^on. It wuh one of tlic al»m)rl)iM;j
iiiiil ii;.'itatiii}5 qiu'stiorm of the oontiiicnt. To ohtiiin l•X(•hl^*ive poHses.sioii of
()ri';;('ii, till" {^reiiteot eil'orts were made, and it wa« at length ol)tain«'<l. W'liat
nixt? At>t'r this nctiiiil orciipution of the entire eontincnt, and havinj^ thus
(ilitiiiiu'il cxcliiMke jioHftession of On-^on in order that we nii^d'l ^iovirn it, we
li;ivc seen cession atU-r session of Conjjniss pass away witlumt a sin-^ie tliiiij;
iiiiii;; done tiir the ^^overninent of a country, to obtain posBcssion of which wo
were wiiliiij; to fjo to war with Kuj^fhind I
Year ath^r year, and s«'Ssion aller session have gon by, ond to this day the
l;i\v(i of the United States have not b'jcn extended over that Territory. In tho
iiuaii lime, a <;reat connnunity is ^rowin^ up . ere, « nijosetl jit tliis time of
tKcIve tliousand souls — persons from all parih of the worl-', from Asia as well
thmi Europe an<l Amer'ea — and whiih, till this ♦inie, have been jtreserved
in order by compact amon}; tnemselves. ♦^Jreat i librts havt* been maile to pre-
pcrvf order — most meritorious efforts, whieli ha\': evinced their anxiety to
maintain their own reputation and that of the country to wliicb they belon;^.
Tluir efforts have Ijcen eminently meritorious ; but we all kiujw ;)nt voluntary
^(ivi'rnineiits cannot last — that they are temporary in their very nature, iind
iiiii.'t eni'Dimter rude shocks and resistance, under which they must fall. lie-
Miles the inconvenience resulting from the absence of an organi/(!d <,'overnment,
wi' are to recollect that thyre never yet has been a civilized settlement in terri-
tiny occiipietl by the aboriginal inhabitants, in which a war between the races
liaH not occurred. Down to the present moment, the settlers in Oregon had
escaped a conflict with tho Indians. Now the war between them is breaking
cut ; and I cannot resist tho conviction, that if tliere had been a regularly or-
jrani/ed government in that country, nnmediately after tho treaty with Great
Britain, with a military force to sustain it, — for a government in such ^ region,
Forcnote, would be nothing without military force, — the calamities now im-
peiiiliag over that country might have been averted.
But no government was established ; and now all these evils are coming
upon these people, as everybody muat have foreseen they would come ; and in
the depth of winter, they send to us a special messenger, who makes his way
aemss the Rocky Mountains at a time when almost every living thing perished
in the snow — when the snow was at such a depth that nothing could |>enetrate
to tlie bottom of it. He made his way across, however, and brings these com-
plaints which we now hear. They arc in a suffering condition. Not a moment
of time is to Ijc lost. If the bill were passed this instant, — this morning, as
I hojM'd it would be, — it would refjuire tho utmost degree of vigor in the execu-
tion of it to be able to send troops across the itocky Mountains before tho sejt-
.«nn of di:ep snow. They should cross the mountains before the month of Sejj-
tomber. I was in hopes then, that on this occasion, there would be nothing to
delay action — that wo should all have united in deploring that for years the
Imposition to give these people government and laws has been defeated by the
introduction of a question of no practical -consequenco, but which has had tho
■§■'
■M"
45G
EXTRACT FROM BENTON S OREGON SPEECH.
effect of depriving these people of all government, and bringing about the
massacres which have taken place, and in which the benevolent missionary has
fallen in the midst of his labors. All the calamities which have taken place in
that country have resulted from mixing up this question, which has not a par-
tide of practical value, with all the measures which have been introduced for
the organization of a government in Oregon. All the laws passed by the Con-
gress of the United States can have no effect on the question of slavery there.
In that country there is a law suj)erior to any which Congress can pass on the
sul)joct of slavery. There is a law of climate, of position, and of Nature her-
self, against it. Besides, the people of the country itself, by flir the largest
number of whom have gone out from slave-holding States, many of them from
the State of Missouri, in their organic law, communicated to Congress more
than a year ago, and printed among our documents at the last session, declare
that the law of nature is against slavery in that region. Who would think of
carrying slaves to the Lake of the Woods ? and what would anybody think of
a law of Congress which should say that slavery should or should not exist
there ? I was in hopes, then, that this bill would be allowed to pass throunh
this morning. And it was in order to avoid any delay that I did not make a
separate bill to raise the regiments nt.'cessary to sustain the government tliere,
I did hope, that on this occasion — when a great political measure of the hichest
importance is pending, which has been delayed for years, and which delay has
brought on the massacres of which we now hear — this question, which has
already produced these calamities, would not have been introduced, and that
some other opportunity would have been taken for its discussion. Tliere will
be opportunities enough for its discussion. The doors of legislation are open
to it as a separate measure. I trust, even now. that this question will not be
permitted to delay our action. The delay of a few days here will be the delay
of a year in Oregon. Delay at all now, is delay not for a week or a month, bnt
for a year, during all which time these calamities will continue.
m******mit*
With respect to the question itself, I am ready to meet it in every shape and
form. Let me here say, that no gentleman on this floor must assume to be the
representative of the fifteen slave-holding States. I assume to represent one-
no more than one — and if I can satisfy my constituents, my duty is performei'.
I invade no gentleman's bailiwick, and no one sh.all invade mine. Let every one
speak for himself. Tliis Federal Government was made for something else
than to have this pestiferous question constantly thrust upon us to the intemip-
tion of the most important business. I am willing to vote down this question
at this moment ; I am willing to take it up and act upon it in all its extent and
bearings, at the proper time, when its consideration will not interrupt andj
destroy important measures. What I protest against is, to have the real busi-
ness of the country — the pressing, urgent, crying business of the country-
stopped, prostrated, defeated, by thrusting this question ujjon us. We read in
Holy Writ, that a certain people were cursed by the plague of frogs, and that
the plague was everywhere. You could not look upon the table but there were
WASniNOTON SOCIETY CURIOSITY OF LADIES.
457
fiozs ; V"" could not sit down at the banquet but there were frogs ; you could
not "0 to the bridal couch and lift the sheets but there were frogs ! We can
s'c iiutliinj;, touch nothing, have no meiisures proposed, without having this
pi'slileiKi; tlirust before us. Here it is, this black qtiostion, forever on the
table, on the nuptial couch — everywhere ! So it was not in the better days of
tlie K('ptil>lic'. I remember the time when no one would have thought of ask-
iiicr a public man what his views were on the extension of slavery, any more
than wliat was the length of his foot ; and those were happy days which, al-
though gone by, arc remembered, and may, perhaps, be brought liack.
Wc ought to vote down this amenduient as a thing which should not be
ailowid to interrupt our action. Our action ehoidd not be delayed a single
moment. This cruel war, which cannot continue in Oregon without extending
to California, must be stopped without delay. Oregon and California nuist be
ijavcd from the desolation of an Indian war. Whatever opinions may be en-
tirtainiil upon the subject of slavery, let us agree on this point, that we will
give law and government to the people of Oregon, and stop, if we can, the
proirivfis of this Indian war." _ ,
; .i'.'V. ^ ! ■.■■■- v I. "i -fi- ^v t -IV .... ...i ...i.
This Avas the tone which the friends of Oregon pre-
served through that last session of Congress in which the
Oregon bill was under discussion. 3^/3 x,^
In the meantime our hero was making the most of his
advantages. He went to dinners and champagne su})pers,
besides giving an occasional one of the latter. At the
pi'osidential levees he made himself agreeable to witty and
distinguished ladies, answering innumerable questions
about Oregon and Indians, generally with a veil of reserve
between himself and the questioner whenever the inqui-
ries became, as tiiey sometimes would, disagreeably search-
iii;... Again the spirit of perversity and mischief led him
to make his answers so very direct as to startle or bewilder
the questioner.
On one occasion a lady with whom he was promenading
a drawing-room at some Senator's reception, admiring his
handsome physique perhaps, and wondering if any woman
owned it, finally ventured the question — was he married ?
"Yes, indeed," answered Meek, with emphasis, "I have
a wife and several children.."
li
m
458
KIT CARSON — THE CONTINGENT FUND.
I !
It;
"Oh dear,'' exclaimed the hady, " I should think your
wife would be so afraid of the Indians!"
"Afraid of the Indians!" exclaimed Meek in his turn'
" why, madam, she is an Indian herself!"
No further remarks on the subject were ventured that
evening ; ard it is doubtful if the lady did not take liis
answer as a rebuke to her curiosity rather than the plain
truth that it was.
Meek found his old comrade, Kit Carson, in Washington,
staying with Fremont at the house of Senator Benton.
Kit, who had left the mountains as poor as any other of
the mountain-men, had no resource at that time except
the pay furnished by Fremont for his services as guide and
explorer in the California and Oregon expeditions; where,
in fact, it was Carson and not Fremont who deserved fiune
as a path-finder. However that may be, Carson had as
little money as men of his class usually have, and needed
it as much. So long as Meek's purse was supplied, as it
generally was, by some member of the family at the White
House, Carson could borrow from him. But one being
quite as careless of money as the other, they were some-
times both out of pocket at the same time. In that case
the conversation was apt to take a turn like this :
Carson. Meek, let me have some money, can't you?
Meeh. I hav 'nt got any money, Kit.
Carson. Go and get some.
'•'"' Meek. it, whar am I to get money from ?
' Carson. Try the "contingent fund," can't you?
Truth to tell the contingent fund was made to pay for
a good many things not properly chargeable to the neces-
sary expenditures of "Envoy Extraordinary" like our
friend from Oregon.
yt^h rjtyjp favoritism Avith which our hero was everywhere re-
• ceived was something remarkable, even when all the cir-
GRAND RECEPTION AT BALTIMORE.
459
cumstiinccs of liis relationship to the chief magistrate, and
the popuharity of the Oregon question were considered.
Doubtless the novelty of having a bear-fighting and In-
dian-fighting Rocky Mountain man to lionize, was one
n-reat secret of the furore Avhich greeted him wherever he
vent ; but even that fails to account fully for the enthu-
siasm he awakened, since mountain-men had begun to be
pretty well known and understood, from the journal of
Fremont and other explorers. It could only have been
the social genius of the man which (jnabled him to over-
come the impediments of lack of education, and the asso-
ciations of half a lifetime, Bux whatever was the fortu-
uate cause of his success, he enjoyed it to the full. \Ie
took excursions about the country in all directions,
petted and spoiled like any "curled darling" instead of
the six-foot-two Rocky Mountain trapper that he was.
Ill June he received an invitation to Baltimore, tender-
ed by the city council, and was received by that body
with the mayor at its head, in whose carriage he was con-
veyed to Monument Square, to be welcomed by a thou-
sand ladies, smiling and showering roses upon him as he
passed. And kissing the roses because he could not kiss
the ladies, he bowed and smiled himself past the festive
groups waiting to receive the messenger from Oregon.
Music, dining, and the parade usual to such occasions
distinguished this day, which Meek declares to have been
the proudest of his life ; not denying that the beauty of
the Baltimore ladies contributed chiefly to produce that
impression.
On the fourth of July, Po^k laid the corner stone of the
National Monument. The occasion was celebrated with
great eclat^ the address being delivered by Winthrop, the
military display, and the fire-works in the evening being
unusually fine. In the procession General Scott and staff
!i;
'm
l?5
460 THE LOWELL FACTORY GIRLS NATURAL REGRETS.
rode on one side of the President's carriage, Col. May and
Meek on the other, — Meek making a great display of
horsemanship, in which as a mountain-man he excelled.
A little later in the summer Meek joined a party of Con-
gressmen who were making campaign speeches in the
principal cities of the north. At Lowell, Mass., he visited
the cotton factories, and was equally surprised at the ex-
tent of the works, and the number of young women em-
ployed in them. Seeing this, the forewoman requested
him to stop until noon and see the girls come out. As
they passed in review before him, she asked if he had
made his choice.
"No," replied the gallant Oregonian, " it would be im-
possib^o to choose, out of such a lot as that ; I should have
to take them all." > .
If our hero, under all his gaity smothered a sigh of re-
gret that he was not at liberty to take one — a woman like
those with whom for the first time in his life he was privi-
leged to associate — who shall blame him ? The kind of
life he was living now was something totally different to
anything in the past. It opened to his comprehension
delightful possibilities of what might have been done and
enjoyed under other circumstances, yet which now never
could be done or enjoyed, until sometimes he was rea^^
to fly from all these allurements, and hide himself again
in tho Rocky Mountains. Then again by a desperate effort,
such thoughts were banished, and he rushed more eagerly
than before into every pleasure afforded by the present
moment, as if to make the present atone for the past and
the future.
The kindness of the ladies at the White House, while it
was something to be grateful for, as well as to make him
envied, often had the effect to disturb his tranquiUty by
the suggestions it gave rise to. Yet he was always de-
TS
1 REGRETS.
, Col. May and
eat display of
he excelled.
a party of Con-
eeches in the
ass., he visited
sed at the ex-
ng women em-
man requested
come out. As
5ked if he had
'•J ,: . -, ■ - ',t ■
U'>t
t would be im-
I should have
d a sigh of re-
-a woman like
3 he was privi-
The kind of
lly different to
3Gmprehen^ion
been done and
ich now never
he was rear ,
himself again
Bsperate effort,
L more eagerly
by the present
)r the past and
louse, while it
,s to make him
tranquihty by
yas always de-
Wn
COMMODORE WILKES-
-" OREGON LIES."
4G1
mandin^^ it, always accepting it. So constantly was he
tlie attendant of his lady cousins in public and in private,
riding and driving, or sauntering in the gardens of the
presidential mansion, that the less favored among their
acquaintances felt called upon to believe themselves ag-
frrieved. Often, as the tall form of our hero was seen
with a lady on either arm promenading the gardens at
evening, the question wouhl pass among the curious but
uninitiated — "Who is that?" And the reply of some
jealous grumbler would be — "It is that Rocky
Mountain man," so loud sometimes as to be overheard by
the careless trio, who smothereal a laugh behind a hat or
a fan. . ■;.:.'
And so passed that brief summer of our hero's life. A
great deal of experience, of sight-seeing, and enjoyment
had been crowded into a short few months of time. He
had been introduced to and taken by the hand by the
most celebrated men of the day. Nor had he failed to
meet with men whom he had known in the mountains and
in Oregon. His old employer, Wilkes, who was ill in
Washington, sent for him to come and tell " some of those
Oregon Hes" for his amusement, and Meek, to humor him,
stretched some of his good stories to the most wonderful
dimensions. ■•""■'■. . , ■
But from the very nature of the enjoyment it could not
last long ; it was too vivid and sensational for constant
wear. Feeling this, he began to weary of Washington,
and more particularly since he had for the last few weeks
been stopping away from the White House. In one of his
restless moods he paid a visit to Polk, who detecting the
state of his mind asked laughingly .,
"Well, Meek, what do you want now?"
" I want to be franked."
"How long will five hundred dollars last you?"
^
462
EXTRAVAQANT HABITS.
"About as many days as there ar' hundreds, I reckon."
" You are shockingly extravagant, Meek. Where do
you think all this money is to come from ?"
"It is not my business to know, Mr. President," replied
Meek, laughing, " but it is the business of these United
States to pay the expenses of the messenger from Oregon
isn't it?"
" I think 1 will send you to the Secretary of War to be
franked. Meek ; his frank is better than mine. But no,
stay ; I will speak to Knox about it this time. And you
must not spend your money so recklessly, Meek ; it will
not do — it will not do." #•
Meek thanked the President both for the money and the
advice, but gave a champagne supper the next night, and
in a week's time was as empty-handed as ever. Washing-
ton manners were in some respects too much like moun-
tain manners for five hundred dollars to go a great ways.
.„ . ' i
!•■■ 1 i
\ ]
1 ■
'"■'i:>\-^:M-\ '::^i;tf^y^}v^-j^,: .
M«. THORNTON AS REPRESENTATIVE OF OREGON. 463
CHAPTER XL,
We must go back a little way and take up the thread
of Oregon's political history as it relates to the persons
and events of which we have .been writing. However
inogular had been the appointment of a delegate for
Oregon, while still unrecognized by the general govern-
ment, and however distasteful as a party measure the ap-
pointment of Mr. Thornton had been to a majority of the
people of Oregon, there was nevertheless sufficient merit
in his acts, since events had turned out as they had, to
reconcile even his enemies to them. For what did it con-
cern the people who procured or helped to procure the
blessings they asked for, so only that they were made sure
of the blessings. '■ ^ '' ' li:
Mr. Thornton had done what he could in "Washington
to secure for Oregon the things desired by her citizens.
Immediately on his arrival he had prepared, at the instance
of Mr, Polk, a memorial to Congress setting forth the con-
dition of the country and the wants of the colony. In
addition to this he had prayed for the passage of a law
organizing a territorial government, and donating land-
claims. To be sure Congress had been memorialized on
these subjects for years, and all to no purpose. But there
ivas a decided advantage in having a man versed in law
and conversant with legal forms as well as territorial wants,
to assist in getting up the bills concerning Oregon. Be-
sides, Thornton was a conscientious man, and would not
agree to a fraud.
30
4G4
THE TERUITOHIAL BILL IN THE SENATE.
The tcrritoriiil bill was gotten up among the friends of
Oregon in the Free-Soil party, and had incorporated into
it the ordinance of 1787, prohibiting slavery, and this was
so not only because the free-soilers desired it, but because
the people of Oregon desired it. But a few sagacious
Southern members had conceived the idea of makino- Mr.
Thornton responsible for the expunging of the obnoxious
clause, by trying to convince h'm that the bill could never
be passed with the ordinance of 1787 in it, and that would
he, Thornton, but consent to have it stricken out, they
were assured that the friends of free-soil would allow it to
pass for the sake of waiting, expectant Oregon. So rea-
soned Calhoun and others.
Thornton, however, was both too wise and too faithful
to be humbugged in that specious manner. He assured
Mr. Calhoun that in the first place he had no authority to
consent to the expunging of the ordinance of 1787; in
the second place, that the people of Oregon would wait
for a territorial government until they could obtain one
which promised them free institutions ; and in the third
place, that he did not believe the free-soil party would ever
allow the bill to pass, amended as Mr. Calhoun proposed;
therefore that had he the authority to consent to the amend-
ment, he should gain nothing, but lose all by doing so.
Thus, through the almost entire summer, the friends
and the enemies of free-soil quarreled and schemed over
Oregon. Not that any were really opposed to the exten-
sion of" the Government over that territory, but only that
the Southern members objected to more free soil.
The President was very anxious that the bill should
pass in some shape during his administration. Benton of
Missouri, was eager for its passage as it was. Butler of
South Carolina, fiercely opposed to it. Numerous were
the skirmishes which these two Senators had over the
r
THE BILL OPPOBED BY SQUTHEUNEKS. -
465
()ie""on question ; and a duel would, in one inHtanco, hnvo
resulted, had not the arrest of the parties put a tormina-
tion to the affair. . • .'.
The land bill too, gave considerable trouble ; not from
any opposition it encountered, but because nobody knew
Low much land to give each settler. Some Congressmen,
in the magnificence of their generosity and compassion,
were for granting one thousand acres to every white male
settler of the territory. The committee who had this bill
in hand, on consulting the two Oregon representatives,
were informed that the proposed donation was altogether
tuo large, and it was subsequently reduced.
The close of the session was at hand and nothing had
'oeen done except to talk. Congress was to adjourn at
noon on Monday, August 14th, and it was now Saturday
the 12th. The friends of Oregon were anxious; the two
waiting Oregonians nearly desperate. On this morning
of the 12th, the friends of the bill, under Benton's lead, de-
terrained upon obtaining a vote on the final passage of the
l)ill; resolving that they would not yield to u^j usual mo-
tions for delay and adjournments, but that they would, if
necessary, sit until twelve o'clock Monday.
On the other hand, the southern members, finding that
no motion for adjournment could be made to prevail, But-
ler, of South Carolina, moved that the Senate go into ex-
ecutive session. This was done because under the rules
of the Senate, the Oregon bill would necessarily give
place to the business of the executive session. And the
business to which Senator Butler proposed to call the at-
tention of the senate was certain conduct of the gentle-
man from Missouri, which he characterized as dishonorable.
At the word " dishonorable " Benton sprang to his feet,
^claiming — "You lie, sir! you lie! ! I cram the lie down
your tlu-oat ! ! !" at the same time advancing toward Butler
\
466
SCENE BETWEEN BU'fl.ER AND HENTOX.
with his fist clenched and raised in a thr(>atening manner.
Butler on his part seemed very willing to engage in a per-
sonal conflict, awaiting his antagonist with the genuine
game look which has formerly been supposed to be one
of the signs of good southern blood. "
But a fight on the floor of the Senate between two of
its white-haired members could not be suilered to go on,
the combatants being separated by the other Senators.
who crowded in between. The eyes of Butler burned
fiercely as he said to Benton over the heads of his of-
ficious friends, —
"I will see you, sir, at another time and place!"
"Very well, sir;" returned Benton: "but you will do
well to understand that when I fight, I fight for a fu-
neral!"
That this affair did not terminate in d funeral was
probably owing to the arrest of the parties.
At ten o'clock Saturday evening, order having been re-
stored, and no adjournment having yet prevailed. Senator
Foote of Mississippi, arose and commenced to speak in a
manner most irritatingly drawling and dull; saying that
since there was to be no adjournment before twelve o'clock
Monday noon, he proposed to entertain to the best of liis
ability the grave deliberative body before him.
Commencing at the creation of Adam, he gave the Bi-
ble Story — the creation of Eve ; the fall of man ; the his-
tory of the children of Israel ; the stories of the proph-
ets ; ecclesiastical history, — only yielding the floor for a
motion, at intervals of an hour each, continuing to drawl
through the time hour after hour.
Sleepy senators betook themselves to the anteroom to
lunch, to drink, to talk to the waiting ones, and to sleep.
But whenever a motion was made, a page aroused the
sleepers and they took their seats and voted.
SENATOR FOOTb's LECTUIIE — THE hill l'A8SED. 4G7
Thus woro the uiglit away. The Sabbath morning's sun
arose, and still Foote waa in the midst of liis Bible disqui-
sitions. At length, two hours after sunrise, a consultation
was held between Butler, Mason, Calhoun, Davis and
Foote, which resulted in the announcement that no further
opposition would be offered to taking the vote upon the
liiiiil passage of the Oregon bill. The vote was then ta-
ken, the bill passed, and the weary senate adjourned, to
meet again on Monday for a final adjournment.
After the adjournment on Sunday morning, Benton in
alhidiiig to the scene between himself and the senator
tioiu South Carolina, said, "he did not blame Judge But-
ler so much as he might ; because that scoundrel
Calhoun was urging Butler to it, while he himself sat say-
ing nothing, and doing nothing, but looking as demure as
a courtesan at a christening." - - -. .-
Truly "such are the compliments that pass when gen-
tlemen meet." ■>^''n'; r ■>,., . , . ,.!>. ,,..':^ -J.,, 5. : „
The Land bill, or Donation act, as it is generally known,
failed of being passed at this session, simply because it
had to wait for the Territorial bill to be passed, being
supplementary to it, and because after the passage of that
bill there was no time to take up the other.
As Thornton had been chiefly instrumental in getting
the Donation bill into shape, it was a severe disappoint-
ment, in not having it passed at the same session with the
Territorial bill, and having to return to Oregon with-
out this welcome present to the people of the new ter-
ritory.
Collamer of Vermont, sympathizing with the failure of
the Donation Law, proposed to T .ornton to draw up a
new bill including some amendments suggested by him,
and to forward the same to jis (Collamer's) address, prom-
ising to see what could be done with it thereafter. This
s/, .
468
( ' > '.'• .J '
FAILrRE OF THE LAND BILL.
y^mn
I --I
Thornton did, and also carried a copy of it home to Ore-
gon, and placed it in the hands of Oregon's first delegate
to Congress, who, after making a few alterations in the
bill, adopted and claimed it for his own. The bill thus
amended and re-amended, became a law in September
1850 ; and of that law we shall have occasion to speak
hereafter.
|i !
■•■m
-m
.).-,. I
(. ■*-..
Sv,T;
dm:
■.w, :v
'^r^'tiv.
fr.';
.1 '
MEEK APPOINTED U. a. MARHUAL FOIi OREGON.
469
CHAPTER XLI.
1848-9. The long susiDensc ended, Meek prepared to
return lo Oregon, if not without some regrets, at the same
time not unwillingly. His restless temper, and life-long
habits of unrestrained freedom began to revolt against the
conventionality of his position in Washington. Besides,
ill appointing officers for the new territory, Polk had made
him United States Marshal, than which no office could
have suited him better, and le was as prompt to assume
the discharge of its duties, as all his life he had been to
undertake any duty to which his fortunes assigned him.
On the 20th of August, only six days after the passage
of the territorial bill, he received his papers from Buchan-
an, and set off for Bedford Springs, whither the family
from the White House were flown to escape from the suf-
focating air of Washington in August. He had brought
liis papers to be signed by Polk, and being expected by
the President found everything arranged for his speedy
departure ; Polk even ordering a seat for him in the up-
coming coach, by telegraph. On learning this from the
Presidf nt, at dinner, when the band was playing, Meek
turned to the leader and ordered him to play " Sweet
Home," much to the amusement of his lady cousins, who
had their own views of the sweets of a home in Oregon.
A hurried farewell, spoken to each of his friends sepa-
rately, and Oregon's new Marshal was ready to proceed
on his long journey toward the Pacific.
'V
'1
470
PAY OF THE DELEGATES THE LION S SHARE.
I .
The occasion of Polk's haste in the matter of getting
Meek started, was his anxiety to have the Oregon govern-
ment become a fact before the expiration of his term of
oihce. The appointment of Governor of the new terri-
tory had been offered to Shields, and declined. Another
commission had been made out, appointing General Jo-
seph Lane of Indiana, Governor of Oregon, and the com-
mission Avas that day signed by the President and giveii
to Meek to be delivered to Lane in the shortest possible
time. His last words to the Marshal on parting were—
" God bless you. Meek. Tell Lane to have a territorial
government organized during my administration."
Of the ten thousand dollars appropriated by Congress
"to be expended under the direction of the President, in
payment for services and expenses of such persons as had
been engaged by the provisional government of Oregon
in conveying communications to and from the United
States; and for purchase of presents for such Indian
tribes as the peace and quiet of the country required"—
Thornton received two thousand six hundred dollars,
Meek seven thousand four hundred, and the Indian tribes
none. Whether the President believed that the peace
and quiet of the country did not require presents to be
made to the Indians, or whether family credit required
that Meek should get the lion's share, is not known. How-
ever that may be, our hero felt himself to be quite rich,
and proceeded to get rid of his superfluity, as will hereafter
be seen, with his customary prodigality and enjoyment of
the present without regard to the future.
Before midnight on the day of his arrival at the springs.
Meek was on his way to Indiana to see General Lane. Ar-
riving at the Newburg landing one morning at day-break,
he took horse immediately for the General's residence at
Newburg, and presented him with hia commission soon
THE GOVERNOR AND MARSHAL START FOR OREGON. 471
after breakflist. Lane sat writing, Avhcn Meek, introducing
himself, laid his papers before him. -
"Do jou accept?" asked Meek. ' • • i
"Yes," answered Lane. ■ : •
"How soon can you be ready to start ?" ' •
"111 fifteen minutes!" answered Lane, with military
promptness. •, - -t -
Three days, however, were actually required to make the
necessary p'-eparations for leaving his fiirm and proceed-
ing to the most remote corner of the United States terri-
tory.
At St. Louis they were detained one day, waiting for a
boat to Leavenworth, where they expected to meet their
escort. This one day was too precious to be lost in wait-
ing by so business-like a person as our hero, who, when
nothing more important was to be done generally was
found trying to get rid of liis money. So, on this occa-
sion, after having disburdened himself of a small amount
in treating the new Governor and all his acquaintances, he
entered into negotiations with a peddler who was impor-
tuning the passengers to buy everything, from a jack-
knife to a silk dress. <s.iiai' -,!:.v^,i!iB"^; '»(-!;;- ■'ftj«ji->aw \-mMm
Finding that Nat. Lane, the General's son, wanted a
knife, but was disposed to beat down the price, Meek
made an offer for the lot of a dozen or two, and thereby
prevented Lane getting one at any price. Not satisfied
ivith this investment, he next made a purchase of three
whole pieces of silk, at one dollar and fifty cents per yard.
At this stage of the transaction General Lane interfered
sufficiently to inquire " what he expected to do with that
stuff?"
" Can't tell," answered Meek ; "but I reckon it is worth
tlio monev."
'• Better save your money," said the more prudent Lane.
f
■hJ^^B^HI i
1
P^Pi
472
THE ESCORT OF RIFLEMEN — THE ROUTE.
But the incorrigible spendthrift only laughed, and threat-
ened to buy out the Jew's entire stock, if Lane persisted
in preaching economy.
At St. Louis, besides his son Nat., Lane was metk
Lieut. Hawkins, who was appointed to the command of
the escort of twenty -five riflemen, and Dr. Hayden, sur-
geon of the company. This party proceeded to Leaven-
worth, the point of starting, where the wagons and men
of Hawkins' command awaited them. At this place, Meek
was met by a brother and two sisters who had come to
look on him for the first time in many years. The two
days' delay which was necessary to get the train ready for
a start, aflTorded an opnorLunity for this family reunion, the
last that might ever occur between its widely separated
branches, new shoots from which extend at this day from
Virginia to Alabama, and from Tennessee to California
and Oregon.
By the 10th of September the new government was on
its way to Oregon in the persons of Lane and Meek. The
whole company of officers, men, and teamsters, numbered
about fifty -five ; the wagons ten ; and riding-horses, an
extra supply for each rider.
The route taken, with the object to avoid the snows of
a northern winter, was from Leavenworth to Santa Fe,
and thence down the Rio Grande to near El Paso ; thence
northwesterly by Tucson, in Arizona; thence to the
Pimas village on the Gila River ; following the Gila to its
junction with the Colorado, thence northwesterly again to
the Bay of San Pedro in California. From this place the
company were to proceed by ship to San Francisco ; and
thence again by ship to the Columbia River.
On the Santa Fe trail they met the army returning
from Mexico, under Price, and learned from them that
they could not proceed with wagons beyond Santa Fe.
price's AllMY — AN ADVENTURE.
473
The lateness of the season, although it was not attended
with snow, as on the northern route it would have been,
subjected tlio travelers 'nevertheless to the strong, cold
winds which blow over the vast extent of open country
between the Missouri River and the high mountain range
which forms the water-shed of the continent. It also
made it more difficult to subsist the animals, especially
after meeting Price's army, which had already swept the
country bare.
On coming near Santa Fe, Meek was riding ahead of
his party, when he had a most unexpected encounter.
Seeing a covered traveling carriage drawn up under the
shade of some trees growing beside a small stream, not
fixr off from the trail, he resolved, with his usual love of
adventure, to discover for himself the character of the
proprietor. But as he drew nearer, he discovered no
one, although a camp-table, stood under the trees, spread
Avith refreshments, not only of a solid, but a fluid nature.
The sight of a bottle of cognac induced him to dismount,
and he was helping himself to a liberal glass, when a
head was protruded from a covering of blankets inside
the carriage, and a heavy bass voice was heard in a polite
protest :
" Seems to me, stranger, you are making free with my
property !"
"Here's to you, sir," rejoined the purloiner ; " it isn't
often I find as good brandy as that," — holding out the
glass admiringly, — " but when I do, I make it a point of
honor not to pass it."
'•May I inquire your name, sir?" asked the owner of
the brandy, forced to smile at the good-humored audacity
of his guest.
" I couldn't refuse to give my name after that," — re-
placing the glass on the table, — "and I now introduce
. S —I
J'
474
A PLEASANT AND UNEXPECTED ENCOUNTER.
I !
myself as Joseph L. Meek. Esq., Marshal of Oregon, on
my way from Washington to ii;^:sist General Lane in estab-
lisliing a territorial Government west of the Rocky Moun-
tains. "
"Meek! — what, not the Joe Meek I have heard my
brothers tell so much about ?"
" Joe Meek is my name ; but whar did your brothers
know me ?" inquired our hero, mystified in his turn.
" I think you must have known Captain William Sub-
lette and his brother Milton, ten or twelve years ago, in
the Eocky Mountains," said the gentleman, getting out of
the carriage, and approaching Meek with extended hand.
A delighted recognition now took place. From Solo-
mon Sublette, the owner of the d./riage and the cognac,
Meek learned many particulars of the life and death of
his former leaders in the mountains. Neither of them
were then living ; but this younger brother, Solomon,
had inherited Captain Sublette's wife and wealth at the
same time. .After these explanations, Mr. Sublette raised
the curtains of the carriage again, and assisted to descend
from it a lady, whom he introduced as his wife, and who
exhibited much gratification in becoming acquainted with
the hero of many a tale recited to her by her former hus-
band, Captain Sublette.
In the midst of this pleasant exchange of reminiscences,
the remainder of Meek's party rode up, were introduced,
and invited to regale themselves on the fine liquors with
which Mr. Sublette's carriage proved to be well furnished.
This little adventure gave our hero much pleasure, as
furnishing a link between the past and present, and bring-
ing freshly to mind many incidents already beginning to
fade in his memory, <■ .r.^^.p,^- ;
At Santa Fe, the train stopped to be overhauled and
reconstructed. The wagons having to be abandoned,
T^^^l
DESERTION OF SOLDIERS DROUTH.
475
their contents had to be packed on mules, after the man-
ner of mountain or of Mexican travel and transportation.
This change accomplished, with as little delay as possible,
the train proceeded without any other than the usual
difficulties, as far as Tucson, when two of the twenty-five
riflemen deserted, having become suddenly enamored of
Hberty, in the dry and dusty region of southern Arizona.
Lieutenant ILiwlcins, immediately on discovering the
desertion, dispatched two men, well armed, to compel
their return. One of the men detailed for this duty be-
longed to the riflemen, but the other was an American,
who, with a company of Mexican packers, had joined the
train at Santa Fe, and was acting in the capacity of pilot,
hi order to fit out this volunteer for the service, always
dangerous, of retaking deserting soldiers, Meek had lent
him his Colt's revolvers. It was a vain precaution, how-
ever, both the men being killed in attempting to capture
the deserters ; and Meek's pistols were never more heard
of, having fallen into the murderous hands of the run-
aways, ;...,,.. ,....-.,( ,^^
Drouth now began to be the serious evil with which
the travelers had to contend. From the Pimas villages
westward, it continually grcAV worse, the animals being
greatly reduced from the want both of food and water.
At the crossing of the Colorado, the animals had to be
crossed over by swimming, the officers and men by rafts
made of bulrushes. Lane and Meek being the first to be
ferried over, were landed unexpectedly in the midst of a
Yuma village. The Indians, however, gave them no
trouble, and, except the little artifice of drowning some
of the mules at the crossing, in order to get their flesh to
eat, committed neither murders nor thefts, nor any out-
rage whatever.
It was quite as well for the unlucky mules to be
476
DEMORALIZATION OF THE ESCORT.
drowned and eaten as it was for their follows to travel on
over tlio arid desert before them until they starved and
perished, which they nearly all did. From the Colorado
on, the company of Lieut. Hawkins became thorougliW
demoralized. Not only would the animals persist in
dying, several in a day, but the soldiers also persisted in
deserting, until, by the time he reached the coast, his for-
lorn hope was reduced to three men. But it was not the
drouth in their case which caused the desertions : it was
rumors which they heard everywhere along the route, of
mines of gold and silver, where they flattered themselves
they could draw better pay than from Uncle Sam's coffers,
The same difliculty from desertion harassed Lieutenant-
Colonel Loring in the following summer, when he at-
tempted to establish a line of posts along the route to
Oregon, by the way of Forts Kearney, Laramie, and
through the South Pass to Fort Hall. His mounted rifle
regiment dwindled down to almost nothing. At one
time, over one hundred men deserted in a body : and al-
though he pursued and captured seventy of them, he
could not keep them from deserting again at the first
favorable moment. The bones of many of those gold-
seeking soldiers were left on the plains, where wolves had
stripped the flesh from them ; and many more finally had
rude burial at the hands of fellow gold-seekers : but few
indeed ever won or enjoyed that for which they risked
everything.
On arriving at Cook's wells, some distance beyond the
Colorado, our travelers found that the water at this place
was tainted by the body of a mule which had lost its life
some days before in endeavoring to get at the water.
This was a painful discovery for the thirsty party to make.
However, there being no water for some distance ahead,
General Lane boiled some of it, and made coifee of it,
la \
vs to travel on
;y starved and
I the Colorado
ne thoroughly
lals persist in
30 persisted in
( coast, his for-
it was not the
^rtions : it was
: the route, of
•ed themselves
) Sara's coffers,
ed Lieutenant-
, when he at-
5 the route to
Laramie, and
mounted rifle
iiig. At one
3ody : and al-
of them, he
n at the first
)f those gold-
ro wolves had
)re finally had
ers : but few
h they risked
e beyond the
r at this place
id lost its life
at the water.
>arty to make,
■stance ahead,
coffee of it,
' '■■Xl
1
■y^*; ■
i,«.'
m^
^
Till:; PAUir ON FOOT EXTUEME SUFFEUINQ.
477
reni.'irking that "maggots were more easily swallowed
cooked than raw!"
And here the writer, and no doubt, the reader too, is
compelled to make a reflection. Was the office of Gover-
nor of a Territory at fifteen hundred dollars a year, and
Indian agent at fifteen hundred more, worth a journey of
over three thousand miles, chiefly by land, even allowing
that there had been no maggots in the water? Quien
sabef
Not far from this locality our party came upon one hun-
dred wagons abandoned by Major Graham, who had not
been able to cross tiie desert with them. Proceeding on-
ward, the riders eventually found themselves on foot, there
being only a few animals left alive to transport the bag-
gage that could not be abandoned. So great was their
extremity, that to quench their thirst the stomach of a
mule was opened to get at the moisture it contained. In
tlie horror and pain of the thirst-fever. Meek renewed
again the sufferings he had undergone years before in the
deserts inhabited by Diggers, and on the parched plains
of the Snake River.
About the middle of January the Oregon Government,
which had started out so gaily from Fort Leavenworth,
arrived weary, dusty, foot-sore, famished, and suffering, at
William's Ranch on the Santa Anna River, which empties
into the Bay of San Pedro. Here they were very kindly
received, and their wants ministered to.
At this place Meek developed, in addition to his various
accomplishments, a talent for speculation. While over-
hauling his baggage, the knives and the silk which had
been purchased of the peddler in St. Louis, were brought
to light. No sooner did the senoritas catch a glimpse of
the shining fabrics than they went into raptures over them,
after the fashion of their sex. Seeing the state of mind
,n
t 'I
478
SPECULATION IN SILKS AND JACKKNIVES.
l+n ■ I
to which these raptures, if unheeded, were likely to re-
duce the ladies of his house, Mr. Williams approaclied
Meek delicately on the subject of purchase. But Meek
in the first flush of speculative shrewdness declared that
as he had bought the goods for his own wife, he could not
find it in his heart to sell them.
However, as the senoritas were likely to prove inconsola-
ble, Mr. Williams again mentioned the desire of his family
to be clad in silk, and the great difficulty, nay, impossi-
bility, of obtaining the much coveted fabric in that part
of the world, and accompanied his remarks with an offer
of ten dollars a yard for the lot. At this magnificent offer
our hero affected to be overcome by regard for the feel-
ings of the senoritas, and consented to sell his dollar and
a-half silks for ten dollars per yard.
In the same manner, finding that knives were a desira-
ble article in that country, very much wanted by miners
and others, he sold out his dozen or two, for an ounce
each of gold-dust, netting altogether the convenient little
profit of about five hundred dollars. When Gen. Lane
was infoTTard of the transaction, and reminded of his ob-
jections to rhe original purchase, he laughed heartily.
"Well, Meek," said he, "you were drunk when you
bought them, and by I think you must have been
drunk when you sold them; but drunk or sober, I will
own you can beat me at a bargain,"
Such bargains, however, became common enough about
this time in California, for this was the year memorable in
California history, of the breaking out of the gold-fever,
and the great rush to the mines which made even the
commonest things worth their weight in gold-dust.
Proceeding to Los Angelos, our party, once more comfort-
ably mounted, found traveling comparatively easy. At this
place they found quartered the command of Maj. Graham,
:J,'S*-
OUEaONIANS AT BAN FRANCISCO.
479
whose abandoned wagons had been passed at the Iloniclhi
on the Colorado River. The town, too, was crowded
with miners, men of every class, but chiefly American
adventurers, drawn together from every quarter of Cali-
fornia and Mexico by the rumor of the gold discovery at
Sutter's Fort.
On arriving at San Pedro, a vessel — the Southampton,
was found ready to sail. She had on board a crowd of
fugitives from Mexico, bound to San Francisco, where they
hoped to find repose from the troubles which harassed
that revolutionary Republic.
At San Francisco, Meek was surprised to meet about
two hundred Oregonians, who on the first news of the
gold discovery the previous autumn, had fled, as it is said
men shall flee on the day of judgment — leaving the wheat
ungathered in the fields, the grain unground in the mills,
the cattle unherded on the plains, their tools and farming
implements rusting on the ground — everything abandoned
as if it would never more be needed, to go and seek the
shining dust, which is vainly denominated "filthy lucre."
The two hundred were on their way home, having all
either made something, or lost their health by exposure
so that they were obliged to return. But they left many
more in the mines.
Such were the tales told in San Francisco of the won-
derful fortunes of some of the miners that young Lane be-
came infected with the universal fever and declared his
I intention to try mining with the rest. Meek too, deter-
mined to risk something in gold-seeking, and as some of
the teamsters who had left Fort Leavenworth with the
company, and had come as far as San Francisco, were very
desirous of going to the mines, Meek fitted out two or
three with pack-horses, tools, and provisions, to accompany
[young Lane. For the money expended in the outfit he
31
480
THE GOVERNOR AND MARSHAL QUARREL.
was to receive half of their first year's profits. The re-
sult of this venture was three pickle-jars of gold-dust
which were sent to him by the hands of Nat. Lane, the
following year ; and which just about reimbursed him for
the outlay.
At San Francisco, Gen. Lane found the U. S. Sloop of
War, the Si. Mary^s; and Meek insisted that the Oregon
government, which was represented in their persons, had
a right to require her services in transporting itself to its
pioper seat. But Lane, whose notions of economy ex-
tended, singularly enough, to the affairs of the general
government, would not consent to the needless expendi-
ture. Meek was rebellious, and quoted Thornton, by
whom he was determined noL lu be outdone in respect of
expense for transportation. Lane insisted that his dignity
did not require a government vessel to convey him to
Oregon. In short the new government was very muth
divided against itself, and only escaped a fall by Meek's
finding some one, or some others, else, on whom to ^.lay
his pranks.
The first one was a Jew peddler who had gentlemen's
clothes to sell. To him the Marshal represented himself
as a United States Custom officer, and after frightening
him with a threat of confiscating his entire stock, finally
compromised with the terrified Israelite by accepting a
suit of clothes for himself After enjoying the mortifica-
tion of f.pirit which the loss inflicted on the Jew, for twen-
ty-four hours, he finally ^^aid him for the clothes, at the
same time administering a lecture upon the sin and dan-
ger of smuggling.
The party which had left Leavenworth for Oregon]
nearly six months before, numbering fifty-five, now num-
bered only seven. Of the original number 'wo had been I
killed, and all the rest had deserted to go to the mines.
t (
A SALUTE ARRIVAL AT OREGON CITY.
481
There remained only Gen. Lane, Meek, Lieut. Hawkins
iind riayden, surgeon, besides three soldiers. With this
small company Gen. Lane went on board the Jeonette^ a
small vessel, crowded with miners, and destined for the
Colurabld River. As the Jeanette dropped down the Bay,
a salute was fired from the St Mary's in honor of Gen.
Lane, and appropriated to himself by Marshal Meek, who
sennas to have delighted in appropriating to himself ail
the honors in whatever circumstances he might be placed ;
the more especially too, if such assumption annoyed the
General.
After a tedious voyage of eighteen days the Jeanette
arrived m the Columbia River. From Astoria the party
took small boats for Oregon City, a voyage ol one hun-
dred and twenty miles ; so that it was already the 2d of
March when they arrived at that place, and only one day
was left for the organization of the Territjiial Govern-
ment before the expiration of Polk's term of office. Gen.
Lane's economy had nearly defeated Polk s greet desire.-u
" .\ • ', ',.1- '-'J:''. '■...■,; '•-:■' H>:l--^t^--,t'\
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482
THE DROPPED THREADS OF OUR STORY.
CHAPTER XLII.
-
i
1
^ 1 . -tl
1849. If this were a novel which we T^-^-re writing, we
should fix upon this point in our story o ''i — "And so
they were married, and lived together h tppily ever af-
ter;" placing the Finis directly after that sentence. For
have we not brought Oregon through all the romantic ad-
ventures and misadventures ot her extraordinary youth,
and ushered her upon the stage of action a promising
young Territory ? As for our hero, he too has arrived at
the climax of his individual glory and success, a point at
which it might be wise to leave him.
But a regard for the eternal fitness of things compels
us to gather up again the dropped threads of sotie por-
tions of our story, and follow them to their pr« ' v?,ki
ing up. We promise, however, to touch as lig^ ;] ' " ' !>'■
sible upon the Territorial history of Oregon; fo ' ipi
political record here becomes, what the political recuiu
of too many other Territories has been, a history of dema
gogueism. With this preface we proceed to finish our nar.
rative.
On the 2d of March Gen. Lane ; I'ved at Oregon City,
and was introduced to Gov. Aberut.l-y, by M ■ -hal Meek.
On the 3d, there appeared the following —
PROCLAMATION.
In pmsua».co of an act of C'^siprAsg^ ^{•j>>rred the 14th of Aujrust, in the
year of oui" Lord 1848, establishing a Ter "t 'fl Government in the Territory
of Oregon :
I, Joseph Lane, was, on the 18th day of August, in the year ISiB, appointed
STORY.
GOV. LANES PROCLAMATION.
483
K^f.re writing, we
'b—" And so
b ippily ever af-
; sentence. For
the romantic ad-
aordinary youth,
ion a promising
)o has arrived at
iccess, a point at
■ things ccmpels
ids of some yor-
eir pr-" f .?•' Tnii
as lig^ ;] V '^'- ' l»'"
)regon; fo ' ipi
! political recuiu
history of dema
to finish our nar.
[ at Oregon City,
)y M: 'hal Meek.
1 4th of August, in the
iment in the Territory
le year 1818,
Governor in and for the Territory of Oregon. I have therefore thought it
proper to issue chis, my proclamation, making known that I have this day en-
tered upon the discharge of the duties of my office, and by virtue thereof do
(kfiare the laws of the United States extended over, and declared to be in
force in si "d Territory, so far as the same, or any portion thereof, may be ap-
plicable.
Given under my hand at Oregon City, in the Territory of Oregon, this 3d
day of March, Anno Domini 1849. Josr,PH Lah&.
Thus Oregon had one day, under Polk, who, take it all
in all, had been a faithful guardian of her interests.
Shortly after che appearance of the proclamation of
Gov. Lane, Meek was sworn into office, and gave the re-
quired securities. All the other Territorial officers pres-
ent in the Territory, or as fast as they arrived, took the
oath of office ; courts were established, and the new gov-
ernment moved on. Of the President 'al appointees who
accepted, were William T. Bryant of Indiana, Chief Jus-
tice 0. C. Pratt of Illinois, and Peter H. Burnett of Ore-
gon, Associate Justices of the District Court: John Adair
of Kentuct y, Collector for the District of Oregon : and
Kintzinge Pritchett of Pennsylvania, Secretary of State.
The condition in which Gov. Lane found the new Ter-
ritory was not so sad as might reasonably be conjectured
from the fears of its inhabitants fifteen months previou.^.
Intimidated by the pr eh.ence of the volunteers in the upper
country, the Indians had remained quiet, and the immigra-
tion of 1848 passed through their country without being
disturbed in any manner. So little apprehension was felt
concerning an Indian war at this time that men did not
hesitate to leave their homes and families to go to the gold
fields of California.
In the month of August, 1848, the Honolulu^ a vessel
of one hundred and fifty tons, owned in Boston, carrying
a consignment of goods to a mercantile house in Portland,
arrived at her anchorage in the Wallamet, via San Fran-
ca
m
48A
THE GOLD EXCITEMENT.
I -I
If ' I
CISCO, California. Captain Newell, almost before he had
discharged freight, commenced buying up a cargo of flour
and other provisions. But what excited the wonder of
the Oregonians was the fact that he also bought up all
manner of tools such as could be used in digging or cut-
ting, from a spade and pickaxe, to a pocket-knife. This
singular proceeding naturally aroused the suspicions of a
people accustomed to have something to suspect. A de-
mand was made for the HonolidiCs papers, and these not
being forthcoming, it was proposed by some of the pru-
dent ones to tie her up. When this movement was at-
tempted, the secret came out. Captain Newell, holding
up a bag of gold-dust before the astonished eyes of his
persecutors, cried out — • . -, ' : ;
" Do you see that gold ? you, I will depopulate
your country ! I know where there is plenty of this stuff,
and I am taking these tools where it is to be found."
This was in August, the month of harvest. So great
was the excitement which seized the people, that all classes
of men were governed by it. Few persons stopped to
consider that this was the time for producers to reap golden
harvests of precious ore, for the other yellow harvest of
grain which was already ripe and waiting to be gathered.
Men left their grain standing, and took their teams from
the reapers to pack their provisions and tools to the mines.
Some men would have gladly paid double to get back
the spades, shovels, or picks, which the shrewd Yankee
Captain had purchased from them a week previous. All
implements of this nature soon commanded fabulo as prices,
and he was a lucky man who had a supply.
The story of the gold-fever which began in the fall and
winter of '48, and raged with such violence through '49,
is too familiar to everybody to need repeating here. Only
as it affected the fortunes of Oregon need it be mentioned.
SUDDEN PROSPERITY OF OREGON.
485
Its immediate effect was to give an impetus to business in
the Territory which nothing else ever could have done;
to furnish a market for all sorts of produce, and employ-
ment for every kind of industry, to bring money into cir-
culation in place of wheat and beaver-skins, and for a time
to make the country extremely prosperous.
One of the last acts of the Provisional Government had
been to authorize the weighing, assaying, and coining of
gold — an act which was rendered necessary by the great
amount of "dust" in circulation, and the influx of the
debased South American coins. An association of gen-
tlemen taking the matter in hand, bore all the expense of
the dies, machinery, and labor, coining only about ten
thousand dollars in the summer of '49. They succeeded
ill raising the price of " dust " from eleven to sixteen dol-
lars per ounce, and stopping
the influx of South Ameri-
can coins. The gentlemen
who conferred a great bene-
fit on Oregon, were Kil-
borne, Magruder, Rector,
Campbell, and Smith. This money went by the name of
"Beaver- money," owing to the design on the dies, which
referred to the previous beaver currency.
But the ultimate effect of the California gold discove-
ries was to put a check upon the prosperity of Oregon.
The emigration from the states, instead of going to Oregon
as formerly, now turned off to California. Men soon dis-
covered the fertile quality of California soil, and while the
majority dug for gold a sufficient 'jumber went to farming
to make, together with the imports from the east, almost
a supply for the yearly hordes of gold seekers. The fame
of the ■ California climate, the fascinations of the ups and
BEAVER-MONEY.
486
GILIDUAL RELAPSE AND THE CAUSE.
w:^
m I
t
downs of fortune's wheel in that country, and many other
causes, united to make California, and not Oregon, the
object of interest on the Pacific coast ; and the rapidity
with which California became selt-supporting removed from
Oregon her importance as a source of supplies. There-
fore, after a few years of rather extraordinary usefulness
and consequent good fortune, the Territory relapsed into
a purely domestic and very quiet young State, This
change in its federal status was not altogether acceptable
to Oregonians. They had so long been accustomed to
regard themselves as the pets of a great and generous,
but rather neglectful Republic, from whose hands all man-
ner of favors were to be of right demanded, because they
had sustained for so long a time the character of good
children, without any immediate reward — that now when
a rival darling sprang into vigorous life and excessive fa-
vor, almost at once, their jealousy rankled painfully. So
naughty and disagreeable a passion as jealousy is its own
punishment, as the Oregonian of to-day would do well to
remember, while he does what he can to show to the world
that his State, by its splendid resources, fully justifies all the
outlay of patriotism and ardor which distinguished its
early history.
But to return to our mutton. Although Gov. Lane
did not find an Indian war on his hands immediately on
assuming the duties of his ofl&ce, there was yet plenty to
do in getting the government organized, appointing offi-
cers to take the census, ordering elections, and getting the
run of Oregon politics, to occupy his .attention for the
first three months of his administration.
The change in the government had not by any means
changed the objects and aims of the different parties in
Oregon. Now, as before, there was a Mission party,
strong in money and influence ; now, as before, the term
THE THREE PARTIES.
• ;!•
487
"Hudson's Bay man" was used by the Mission party to
bring odium upon any aspirant to office, or even business
success, who, not being intimidated by their interdict,
'f'litured to be employed professionally by Dr. McLaugh-
lin, or in any way to show regard for him. As there were
always a certain number independent enough to act from
free will or conviction, there was in consequence still a
Hudson's Bay party. Between these two, as before, there
stood a third party, who added itself to or subtracted it-
self from the other two, as its purposes and interests
required. As there were haters of Dr. McLaughlin in
two of the parties it did not require a great amount of
shrewdness to inform a man that on this point might turn
his political fortunes.
This discovery was made very early after his arrival in
the Territory by Gov. Lane, as well as by Judge Bryant,
and others, and used at times by them when there was an
object to be gained by it, although neither of these dig-
nitaries declared themselves openly as good haters of the
Doctor.
Dr. McLaughlin, on the settlement of the boundary
question, seeing that the London Company found much
fault with him for having "encouraged the settlement of
Oregon by the Americans," went to England to see the
Directors and have the matter understood between himself
aiul them. Finding on hearing his explanation, that while
doing nothing to encourage settlement, he could not per-
mit the immigrants of the first few years to suifer after
their arrival, and that out of charity only he had done
what was done for their relief, the Company still blamed
him, the Doctor then said to the Directors, " Gentlemen,
I will serve you no longer." Sixty thousand dollars, ex-
pended in helping American settlers was charged to his
private account. This amount was afterwards remitted,
but the debt was heavily felt at the time.
488
DR. MCLAUGHLIN — NE*V COMPLICATIONS.
On his return to Oregon, and en the establishment of a
Territorial government, the Doctor determined to take out
naturalization papers, and become an American citizen.
But no sooner had the government been organized than
new complications arose in the Doctor's case. Judge
Bryant had been but a few days in the Territory before he
purchased from the Mission Milling Company the Island in
the river opposite Oregon City, which was occupied by
their mills, but which formed a part of the original claim
of Dr. McLaughlin. Thus the Chief Justice assumed at
once the, same attitude towards him which the Mission and
the Milling Company had done ; and as the island was
contained in Judge Bryant's district, and only two Judges
were at that time in the Territory, the Doctor felt con-
strained to seek advice from such Americans as were his
friends. Although some believed that his best chance of
holding his original claim, was to depend upon his posses-
sory rights under the treaty of 1846, others counseled
him to take out his naturalization papers and secure him-
self in the rights of an American citizen. This he did at
last, on the 30th of May, 1849.
We have spoken in a previous chapter of Mr. Thurston,
in connection with the Donation Act, It is related of this
gentleman that when he left Iowa for Oregon, he confided
to his personal friends his resolve to be "in Congress or in
— " two years after reaching that Territory. Like other
ambitious new-comers, he soon discovered what side to
take with certain influential persons, concerning the Hud-
son's Bay Company^ which was but another name for Dr.
McLaughlin.
Mr. Thurston did not hesitate to ask the Doctor to vote
for him, for delegate to Congress, which, however, the
Doctor did not do, as one of his friends was up for the
same office. But when he was finally elected to Congress,
.'MYlIt fW^ .J J'
THE NEW DELEGATE TO C0.WRE8S.
489
fortunately within the two years to which he had limited
himsell— Mr. Thurston took ground which betrayed by
what influences he had been placed in the coveted position.
Mr. Thornton having returned to Oregon sometime in
May had made the acquaintance of the candidate for Con-
gress, and feeling some anxiety with regard to the Land
Bill, which he had expended considerable thought and
labor upon, conversed freely with Mr. Thurston upon the
subject, and finally, rd his election, presented him with a
copy of his bill ; the same, with certain alterations, that
could not strictly be called amendments, which afterwards
became the Donation Law.
But the notable section of Mr. Thurston's bill, which
finally became a law, was that one which was intended to
secure him future political favors, by earning him the grat-
itude of the anti-Hudson's Bay party, and all others whose
private interests he subserved. This was the section
wiiich exempted from the benefits of the act the Oregon
City claim, in the following words. " That there be, and
hereby is granted to the Territory of Oregon, two town-
ships, one north and one south of the Columbia River, to
aid in establishing a University, to be selected by the
Assembly, and approved by the Surveyor General. Also
the Oregon City claim, except those lo.'s sold previous to
March Uh, 1849."
In order to secure the passage of this part of the land
bill, Mr. Thurston addressed a letter to the House of Rep-
resentatives, of which he was a member, containing the
following assertions : — that it was the Methodist Mission
which first took the Oregon City claim ; that they were
driven from it by a fear of having the savages of Oregon
let loose upon them ; that a number of citizens of Oregon
had been successively driven from it, by the power of the
Hudson's Bay Company; that Dr. McLaughlin had al-
I
400
STORY OF THE DONATION ACT.
I 1
If' I
m- - I
ready sold lots to the amount of $200,000, enongli for a
foreigner to make out of American territory ; and that
the Doctor had not taken out naturalization papers, but
was an Englishman at heart, and still identified with the
Hudson's Bay Company. Mr. Thurston's letter contained
many more assertions equally false — but those just given
relate more particularly to the eleventh section, of the Do-
nation Act.
Mr, Thurston's reason for asking to have all sales of lots
made before the fourth of March, 1849, confirmed, he de-
clared to be to prevent litigation. Dr. McLaughhn, he
said, ought to be made to pay for those lots, but '"not
wishing to create any litigation, the committee concluded
to quiet the whole matter by confirming those lots."
He further stated that the Doctor had upon the Oregon
City claim " a flouring mill, granaries, two double saw-
mills, a large number of houses, stores, and other buildings,
to which he may be entitled by virtue of his possessory
rights under the treaty of 1846. For only a part of the?e
improvements, which he may thus hold, he has been urged
during the past year to take $250,000."
Mr. Thurston sees no harm in taking this property, so
valuable in his estimation, which comprises the earnings
of a whole life-time spent in devotion to business in an
Indian country, away from all that men commonly esteem
desirable, from the proper owner. On the contrary he
makes an eloquent appeal to the House to save this valu-
able estate to the people of Oregon wherewith to educate
the rising generations.
Still further, so great is his fear that some portion of his
property may be left to the Doctor, he asks that the Island
portion of the claim, which he confesses is only a pile of
rocks, of no value except for the improvements on it, may
be " confirmed to George Abernethy, his heirs or assigns;''
BTOllY OF THE DONATION ACT.
491
iissigning as a reason that when the mission was driven
from Oregon City, it took refuge on this pile of rocks,
luul having built a mill, afterwards sold it to Mr. Aber-
uetliy, one of the stockholders. Nothing is said about the
mill having been resold to Judge Bryant ; but Judge Bry-
luit could not object to having the Island confirmed to
liiiu through Mr. Abernethy.
And here we may as well sever one of the threads in
our story. When it became known that by an act of Con-
gress Oregon City was reserved from the right of even an
American citizen to claim, and that only after years of
waiting would the title by possessory right be settled
either for or against him, the old Doctor's heart was broken.
He still continued to reside upon his claim, but the
uncertainty of title prevented any sales of property. The
ingratitude of those whom he had assisted when assistance
was life itself to them, their refusals to pay what had been
lent thom, and their constant calumniations, so bore upon
his spirits that his strength failed rapidly under them, and
for the last few years of his life he fancied himself reduced
to poverty, though he was still in possession of his im-
provements.
An example of the extent to which r,ome men carried
their anti-McLaughlin principles may be fo' r*^ in the fol-
lowing story which was related to us by t-i o gentleman
mentioned in it. The doctor one day stood upon the
street conversing with Mr. Thornton, who had been his
legal adviser in some instances, another gentleman also
being present. Their conversation was rudely interrupted
by a fourth individual, who set upon Mr. Thornton with
every manner of abuse and vile epithet for being seen in
communication with the " old Hudson's Bay, Jes-
uitical rascal," and much more to the same effect. To this
assault, Thornton, who had a great command of language,
492
DEATH OF Dll. MCLAUGHLIN.
NI
replied in a manner which sent the man about his business
Then turning to the Doctor, he said :
" Doctor, 1 will lay a wager that man is one of your
debtors, who never intends to pay, and takes it out in
abuse."
" Yes, yes," answered the Doctor, trying to suppress his
nervousness ; " when he came to Oregon he was naked
and hungry. I gave him assistance to the amount of four
hundred dollars. He is rich now ; has land and herds,
and everything in abundance ; but he hates me on ac-
count of that four hundred dollars. That is the way with
most of them !" . , .
Dr. McLaughlin died September, 18 nd is buried in
the Catholic church-yard in Oregon City. Five years after
his death the State of Oregon restored to his heirs the
property which it had so long wrongfully withheld. As
for the demagogue who embittered the last days of a good
man, for political advancement, he did not live to enjoy
his reward. His health, delicate at the best, was very
much undermined at last by discovering that he received
more blame than praise, even among his former supporters,
for the eleventh section of the Donation Law. He be-
came very ill on his return, and died at Acapulco, Mexico,
without reaching home.
Very many persons have confirmed what his admirer,
Meek, says of Dr. McLaughlin, that he deserved to be
called the Father of Oregon.
; I. n
.f'-.-i <■•
'■ ■ .n . •> ■ ' t • 1 • ■ 1-
MAGNANIMITY OF THE CAYUSi] CHIEFS.
493
CHAPTER XLIIL
1850-4. The Territorial law of Oregon combined the
olTices of Governor and Indian Agent. One of the most
important acts which marked Lane's administration was
that of securing and punishing ihe murderers of Dr. and
Mrs. Whitman. The Indians of the Cayuse tribe to whom
the murderers belonged, were assured that the only way
in which they could avoid a war with the whites was to
deliver up the chiefs who had been engaged in the massacre,
to be tried and punished according to the laws of the
whites. Of the two hundred Indians implicated in the
massacre, five were given up to be dealt with according to
law. These were the five chiefs, Te-lou-i-kite, Tam-ahas,
Klok-a-mas, Ki-am-a-sump-hin^ and I-sa-i-a-cha-lahis.
These men might have made their escape ; the? e was
no imperative necessity upon them to suffer death, had
they chosen to flee to the mountains. But with that
strange magnanimity which the savage often shows, to the
astonishment of Christians, they resolved to die for their
people rather than by their flight to involve them in
war.
Early in the summer of 1850, the prisoners were deli v.
ered up to Gov. Lane, and brought down to Oregon City,
where they were given into the keeping of the marshal.
During their passage down the river, and while they were
incarcerated at Oregon City, their bearing was most proud
and haughty. Some food, more choice than their prison-
er's fare, being offered to one of the chiefs at a camp of
''«'i'
494
PilOUD BEARING OF THE PRISONERS.
iV
i I
^
! i
the guard, in their transit down the Columbia, the proud
savage rejected it with scorn.
''What sort of heart have you," he asked, "that you
offer food to me, whose hands are red with your brothers
blood?"
And this, after eleven years of missionary labor, -was all
the comprehension the savage nature knew of the main
principle of Christianity, — forgiveness, or charity toward
our enemies. . , ,^^_ ^,
At Oregon City, Meek had many converiiations willi
them. In all of these they save but one explanation of
their crime. They feared that Dr. Whitman intended,
with the other whites, to take their laud from them; and
they were told by Jo Lewis, the half-breed, that the Doc-
tor's medicine was intended to kill them off quickly, in
order the sooner to get possession of their country. None
of them expressed any sorrow for what had been done;
but one of them, Ki-am-a-sump-km, declared his inno-
cence to the last.
In conversations with others, curious to "-ain some
knowledge of the savage moral nature, Te-hu-i Jcf'te oiien
puzzled these students of Indian ethics. When ques-
tioned as to his motive for allowing himself to be taken,
Te-lou-i-kite answered :
"Did not your missionaries tell us that Christ died to
save his people? So die we, to save our people!'"
Notwithstanding the prisoners were pre-doomed to
death, a regular form of trial was gone through. The
Prosecuting Attorney for the Territory, A. Ilolbrook, con-
ducted the prosecution : Secretary Pritchett, Major Run-
nels, and Captain Claiborne, the defence. The fee of-
fered by the chiefs was fifty head of horses. Whether it
was compassion, or a love of horses which animated the
■u
fERS.
MEEK S DESCRIPTION OF THE TRIAL.
495
mbia, the proud
?ked, "that you
h your brother's
jy labor, was all
ew of the main
' charity toward
ivensations ■vvitli
J explanation of
itman intended,
rom them; and
d, that the Doc-
Li off quickly, in
country. None
lad been done;
;lared his inno-
to ""ain some
hlou-'i Jc/te often
When qiies-
2lf to be taken,
". Christ died to
^eople!''
pre-doomed to
through. The
Ilolbrook, con-
tt, Major Run-
). The fee of-
fcs. Whether it
I animated the
defence, quite an effort was made to shovv that the mur-
derers were not guilty.
The presiding Justice was 0. C. Pratt — Bryant having
resigned. Perhaps we cannot do better than to give the
Marshal's own description of the trial and execution,
which is as follows: "Thar war a great many indict-
ments, and a great many people in attendance at this
court. The Grand Jury found true bills against the five
Indians, and they war arraigned for trial. Captain Clai-
borne led off for the defence. He foamed and ranted
like he war acting a play in some theatre. He knew
about as much law as one of the Indians he war defend
ing ; and his gestures were so powerful that he smashed
two tumblers that the Judge had ordered to be filled with
cold Y/ater for him. After a time he gave out mentally
and physically. Then came Major Runnels, who made a
very good defence. But the Marshal thought they must
do better, for they would never ride fifty head of horses
with them speeches.
Mr. Pritcheti closed for the defence with a very able
argument ; for he war a man of brains. But then followed
Mr. Holbrook, for the prosecution, and he laid down the
case so plain that the jury were convinced before they
left the jury-box. When the J dge passed sentence of
death on them, two of the chie*'^ showed no terror; but
the other three were filled witn horror and consternation
that they could not conceal.
After court had adjourned, and Gov. Lane war gone
South on .^ome business with the Rogue River Indians,
Secretary Pritchett came to me and told me that as he
war now acting Governor he meant to reprieve the In-
dians. Said he to me, ' Now Meek, I want you to liber*
ate them Indians, when you receive the order.'
■AvM"44
496
THE EXECUTION.
(
1 !
. 'Pritchett,' said I, 'so far as Meek is concerned he
would do anything for you.'
This talk pleased him; he said he 'war glad to hear it'
and would go right off' and write the reprieve.'
'But,' said I, 'Pritchett, let us talk now like men. I
have got in my pocket the death-warrant of them Indians
signed by Gov. Lane. The Marshal will execute them
men, as certain as the day arrives.'
Pritchett looked surprised, and remarked — 'That war
not what you just said, that you would do anything for
ine.' , . n .
Said I, 'you were talking then to Meek, — not to the
Marshal, who always does his duty.' At that he got mad
and left. .- . ,
When the 3d of June, the day of execution, arrived,
Oregon City was thronged with people to witness it. 1
brought forth the five prisoners and placed them on a
drop. Here the chief, who always declared his innocence,
Ki-am-i-sump-kin^ begged me to kill him with my knife,—
for an Indian fears to be hanged, — but I soon put an end
to his entreaties by cutting the rope which held the drop,
with my tomahawk. As I said ' The Lord have mercy on
your souls,' the trap fell, and the five Cayuses hung in
the air. Three of them died instantly. The other two
struggled for several minutes ; the Little Chief, Tam-a-lm^
the longest. It was he who was cruel to my little girl at
the time of the massacre; so I just put my foot on the
knot to tighten it, and he got quiet. After thirty-five
minutes they were taken down and buried."
*" Thus terminated a tragic chapter in the history of Ore-
gon. Among the services which Thurston performed for
the Territory, was getting an appropriation of $100,000,
to pay the expenses? of the Cayuse war. From the Spring
of 1848, when all the whites, except the Catholic mission-
aries, were withdrawn from the upper country, for a pe-
'». !
STATE OF THE UPPER COUNTRY.
497
is concerned, he
liod of several years, or until Government had made
treaties with the tribes east of the Cascades, no settlers
were permitted to take up land in Eastern Oregon. Dur-
iii<T those years, the Indians, dissatisfied with the encroach-
ments which they foresaw the whites wo'Jd finally make
upon tlieir countr}', and incited by ceilain individuals who
had sullered wrongs, or been punished for their own of-
fences at the hands of the whites, finally combined, as it
was supposed from the extent of the insurrection, and
Oregoi was involved in a three years Indian war, the his-
tory of which would fill a volume of considerable size.
When Meek returned to Oregon as marshal, with his
fine clothes and his newly acquired social accomplish-
ments, he was greeted with a cordial acknowledgment of
liis services, as well as admiration f r his improved appear-
ance. He was generally acknowledged to be the iiiodel
of a handsome marshal, whn clad in his half-military
dress, and placed astride of a line horso. in the execution
of the more festive duties of marslial of a procession ou
some patriotic occasion. J' '
But no amount of official responsibility could ever
change him from a wag into a "grave and everend
seignior." No place nor occasion was sacred to iiim when
the wild humor was on him.
At this satne term of court, after the conviction r" the
Cay use chiefs, there was a case before Judge dt, in
which a mpn was charged with selling liquor to the In-
dians. In these cases Indian evidence was allowed, but
the jury-room being up stairs, caused a good deal of
annoyance in court ; because when an Indian witness was
wanted up stairs, a dozen or more who were not wanted
would follow. The Judge's bench was so placed that it
commanded a full view of the staircase and every one
passing up or down it.
A call for some witness to go before the jury was fol
;,? ■■ Si,! !1 , ,,
498
SCENE IN A COURT-ROOM.
' i ' I r.
!
1
^ip^-' "
\ '
3
•
lowed on this occasion, as on all others, by a general rush
of the Indians, \ ho were curious to witness the proceed-
ings. One fat old squaw had got part way up the stairs,
when the Marshal, full of wrath, seized her by a leg and
dragged her down flat, at the same time holding the fat
MEEK AS UNITED STATES MARSHAL.
member so that it was pointed directly toward the Judge.
A general explosion followed this pointed action, and the
Judge grew very red in the face.
"Mr. Marshal, come within the bar!" thundered the
Judge.
Meek complied, with a very dubious expression of
countenance.
"I must fine you fifty dollars," continued the Judge;
"the dignity of the Court must be maintained."
When court had adjourned that evening, the Judge
and the Marshal were walking toward their respective
lodgings. Said Meek to his Honor : ^h\':,
JUDGE NKLSON AND THE CAllPENTEllS.
499
ard the Judge,
action, and the
thundered the
"Why dif^ you fine me so heavily to-day?" "^
" I must do .L," returned the Judge. " I must keep up
the dignity of the Court ; I must do it, if I pay the fines
myself." " ' ' ...,;,;..
"And you must pay all the fines you lay on the marshal,
of course," answered Meek.
"Very well," said the Judge; "I shall do so."
"All right, Judge. As I am the proper disbursing
officer, you can pay that fifty dollars to me — and I'll take
it now." >;:V;7:-:
At this view^ of the case, his Honor was staggered for
one moment, and could only swing his cane and laugh
faintly. After a little reflection, he said :
" Marshal, when court is called to-morrow, I shall remit
vour fine ; but don't you let me have occasion to fine you
agani
I"
After the removal of the capital to Salem, in 1852,
court was held in a new building, on which the carpenters
were still at work. Judge Nelson, then presiding, was
much put out by the noise of hammers, and sent the
marshal more than once, to request the men to suspend
their work during those hours when court was in session,
but all to no purpose. Finally, when his forbearance was
quite exhausted, he appealed to the marshal for advice.
"What shall I do, Meek," said he, "to stop that in-
fernal noise?"
"Put the workmen on the Grand Jury," replied Meek,
" Summon them instantly !" returned the Judge. They
were summoned, and quiet secured for that terra.
At this same term of court, a great many of the foreign
born settlers appeared, to file their intention of becoming
American citizens, in order to secure the benefits of the
Donation Law. Meek was retained as a witness, to swear
to their qualifications, one of which was, that they were
n-.-j
500
THE OREGON COURT ON AN EXCURSION.
I I
I I
possessed of good moral characters. The first day there
were about two hundred who made declarations, Meek
witnessing for most of them. On the day following, he
declined serving any longer.
"What now?" inquired the Judge; "you made no
objections yesterday."
"Very true," replied Meek; "and two hundred lies
are enough for me. I swore that all those mountain-men
were of 'good moral character,' and I never knew a
mountain-man of that description in my life ! Let Newell
take the job for to-day."
The "job" was turned over to Newell; but whether
the second lot was better than the first, has never trans-
pired.
During Lane's administration, there was a murder com-
mitted by a party of Indians at the Sound, on the person
of a Mr. Wallace. Owing to the sparse settlement of the
country. Governor Lane adopted the original measure of
exporting not only the officers of the court, but the jury
also, to the Sound district. Meek was ordered to find
transportation for the court in toto, jury and all. Boats
were hired and provisioned to take the party to the
Cowelitz Landing, and from thence to Fort Steilacoom,
horses were hired for the land transportation.
The Indians accused were five in number — two chiefs
and three slaves. The Grand Jury found a true bill
against the two chiefs, and let the slaves go. So few
were the inhabitants of those parts, that the marshal was
obliged to take a part of the grand jury to serve on the
petite jury. The form of a trial was gone through with,
the Judge delivered his charge, and the jury retired.
It was just after night-fall when these worthies betook
themselves to the jury-room. One of them curled him-
self up in a corner of the room, with the injunction to
- ■■^TT.'J -T^i* ■^I'rf.'ir;
THE CHIEF S WIFE.
501
the others to " wake him up when they got ready to hang
ihein rascals." The rest of the party spent four
or five hours betting against monte, when, being sleepy
also, they waked up their associate, spent about ten min-
utes in arguing their convictions, and returned a verdict
of "guilty of murder in the first degree."
The Indians were sentenced to be hung at noon on the
following day, and the marshal was at work early in the
morning preparing a gallows. A rope was procured
from a ship lying in the sound. At half-past eleven
o'clock, guarded by a company of artillery from the fort,
the miserable savages were marched forth to die. A
large number of Indians were collected to witness the
execution ; and to prevent any attempt at rescue. Captain
Hill's artillery formed a ring around the marshal and his
prisoners. The execution was interrupted or delayed for
some moments, on account of the frantic behavior of an
Indian woman, wife of one of the chiefs, whose entreaties
for the life of her husband were very affecting. Having
exhausted all her eloquence in an appeal to the nobler
feelings of the man, she finally promised to leave her
husband and become his wife, if he, the marshal, would
spare her lord and chief. cr; ^,.! ^^
She was carried forcibly out of the ring, and the hang-
ing took place. When the bodies were taken down,
Meek spoke to the woman, telling her that now she could
have her husband ; but she only sullenly replied, " You
have killed him, and you may bury him."
This excursion of the Oregon court footed up a sum of
about $4,000, of which the marshal paid $1,000 out of
his own pocket. When, in the following year. Lane was
sent to Congress, Meek urged him to ask for an appropri-
ation to pay up the debt. Lane made no efibrt to do so,
502
LANES CAREER IN OREGON.
probably because lie did not care to liuvc the illegality of
the proceeding commented upon.
Lane's career in Oregon, before the breaking out of the
rebellion, the betrayal of his secession proclivities, and
supposed actual conspiracy against the Government, was
that of a successful politician. Having been appointed
so near the close of Polk's administration, he was sue-
ceeded, on the coming into office of General Taylor, by
General John P. Gaines, who arrived in Oregon in xiugust,
1850. In 1851, General Lane was elected delegate to
Congress, and returned to Oregon as Governor, by Frank-
lin Pierce, in 1853. He was appointed in March, arrived
at Salem May 16th, resigned the 19th, was elected to
Congress July 7th, returning again to Oregon, where he
at present resides, on the expiration of his terra. His
mileage alone amounted to $10,000, besides the expenses
of his first overland journey. John W. Davis was next
appointed Governor, by President Pierce. He arrived in
Salem April 1st, 1854, and resigned in August. A trip
to Oregon, with the mileage, appeared to be quite the
fashion of territorial times.
{'.
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:■ ! '1
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■
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iqq?.;!-- vi^Mfff^i
~f '•''
MEEK AS UNITED STATES MAltSlIAL.
503
CHAPTER XLIV.
While Meek was in Washington, he had been dubbed
with the title of Colonel, which title he still bears, though
during the Indian war of 1855-56, it was alternated with
that of Major, During his marshalship he was fond of
showing off his titles and authority to the discomfiture of
that class of people who had '' put on airs " with him
in former days, when he was in his transition stage from
a trapper to a United States Marshal.
While Pratt was Judge of the District Court, a kidnap-
ing case came before him. The writ of habeas corpus
having been disregarded by the Captain of the Melvin^
who was implicated in the business. Meek was sent to
arrest him, and also the first mate. Five of the Melviii's
sailors were ordered to be summoned as witnesses, at the
same time.
Meek went on board with his summons, marched for-
ward, and called out the names of the men. Every man
came up as he was summoned. When they were together,
Meek ordered a boat lowered for their conveyance to
Oregon City. The men started to obey, when the Cap-
tain interfered, saying that the boat should not be taken
for such a purpose, as it belonged to him.
" That is of no consequence at all," answered the smiling
marshal. " It is a very good boat, and will suit our pur-
pose very well. Lower away, men ■"
Th.} men quickly dropped the boat. As it fell, they
504
THE CAPTAIN OF THE MELVIN.
were ordered to man it. When they were at the oars
the mate was then invited to take a seat in it, wliicli he
did, after a moment's hesitation, and glaneing at his supe-
rior officer. Meek then turned to the Captain, and ex-
tended the same invitation to him. But he was reluctant
to accept the courtesy, blustering considerably, and de-
claring his intention to remain where he was. Meek
slowly drew his revolver, all the time cool and smiling.
" I don't like having to urge a gentleman too hard,"
he said, in a meaning tone ; *' but thar is an argument
that few men ever resist. Take a seat. Captain."
The Captain took a seat ; the idlers on shore cheered
for "Joe Meek" — which was, after all, his most familiar
title ; the Captain and mate went to Oregon City, and
were fined respectively $500 and $300 ; the men took
advantage of being on shore to desert ; and altogether,
the master of the Melvin felt himself badly used.
About the same time news was received that a British
vessel was unloading goods for the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, somewhere on Puget Sound. Under the new order
of aifairs in Oregon, this was smuggling. Delighted with
an opportunity of doing the United States a service, and
the British traders an ill turn. Marshal Meek immediately
summoned a iwsse of men and started for the Sound. On
his way he learned the name of the vessel and Captain,
and recognized them as having been in the Columbia
River some years before. On that occasion the Captain
had ordered Meek ashore, when, led by his curiosity and
general love of novelty, he had paid a visit to this vessel.
This information v7as " nuts" to the marshal, who believed
that "a turn about was fair play."
With great ' dispatch and secrecy he arrived entirely
unexpected at the point where the vessel was lying, and
proceeded to board her without loss of time. The Cap-
AIIUEST OF A BRITISH SMUGGLER.
505
' I'IBIV . Vifi
Captain, and ex-
tain and ofBcors were taken by snrpriso and wore all
u^'luist at tliis unlookod for appearance. But after the
iiirit moment of agitation was over, the Captain recognized
Meek, ho being a man not likely to bo forgotten, and
ihiiikingto turn this circumstance to advantage, approach-
ed liini with the blandest of smiles and the most cordial
luiunier, saying with forced frankness —
" I am sure I have had the i)lcasure of meeting you be-
fore. You must have been at Vancouver when my ves-
sel was in the river, seven or eight years ago. I am very
li;i})py to have met with you again." • '
"Thar is some truth in that remark of yours, Captain,"
replied Meek, eyeing him with lofty scorn; "you did
meet me at Vancouver several years ago. But I was
nothing but ' Joe Meek ' at that time, and you ordered me
ashore. Circumstances are changed since then. I am
now Colonel Joseph L. Meek, United States Marshal for
Oregon Territory ; and you sir, are only a smug-
gler! Go ashore, sir!"
The Captain saw the point of that concluding '^ go
asliorc, sir !" and obeyed with quite as bad a grace as ' Joe
Meek ' had done in the first instance.
The vessel was confiscated and sold, netting to the Gov-
ernment about $40,000, above expenses. This money,
which fell into bad hands, failed to be accounted for.
Nobody suspected the integrity of the marshal, but most
persons suspected that ho placed too much confidence in
tlie District Attorney, who had charge of his accounts.
On some one asking him, a short time after, what had be-
come of the money from the sale of the smuggler, he
seemed struck with a sudden surprise:
'^Why," said he, looking astonished at the question,
"tliar was barly enough for the officers of the court!"
This answer, given as it was, with such apparent simplic-
I
500
MISPLACED CONFIDENCE AND THE RESULT.
ity, 1)cciime a popular joke ; and " barly enough" \v(yj
quoted on all occasions. ■ n. m, i.
The truth was, that there was a serious deficiency in
Meck's account with the Goverinncnt, resulting entirely
from his want of confidence in his own literary accom-
jjlishments, which led him to trust all his con cppondena'
and his accounts to the hands of a man whose talents were
more eminent than his sense of honor. The result of this
misplaced confidence was a loss to the Government, and
to himself, whom the Government held accountable. Con-
trarv to the general rule of disbursing officers, ilie office
made him poor instead of rich ; and when on the incom-
ing of the Pierce administration he suffered dt.npitation
along with the other Territorial officers, he Wa.^ lorced to
retire upon his farm on the Tualatin Plains, and become a
rather indifferent tiller of the earth. ^ ^' - .iuir. %,(.
The breaking out of the Indian war of 1855-6, was
preceded by a long period of uneasiness among the Indi-
ans generally. The large emigration which crossed the
plains every year for California and Oregon was one cause
of the disturbance ; not only by exciting their fears for
the possession of their lands, but by the temptation which
was offered them to take toll of the travelers. Difficulties
occurred at first between the emigrants and Indians con-
cerning stolen property. These quarrels were followed,
probably the subsequent year, by outrages and murder
on the part of the Indians, and retaliation on the parr of
volunteer soldiers from Oregon. When once this system
of outrage and retaliation on either side, was begun, there
was an end of security, and war followed as an inevitable
consequence. Very horrible indeed were the acts per-
petrated by the Indians upon the emigrants to Oregon,
during the years from 1852 to 1858.
. But when at last the call to arms was made in Oregon,
INOTAX DI8TUUBANCES — THE AGENT MUIIDEUED.
507
y enough" was
lade in Oregon,
it ^as iiH o[)portunity - )Ug]it, and not an jiltornativo
forced u[)<jn thuin, by tlio politicians of that Territory.
The occasion was simply tiiis. A party of hiwless wretclied
from tiio Sound Country, passing over the Cascade Moun-
tains into the Yakima Valley, on their way to the Upper
('oliiinhia mines, found some Yakima women digging roots
ill a lonely place, and abused them. The women fled to
thoir village and told the chiefs of the outrage ; and a party
followed the guilty whites and killed several of them in u
light.
Mr. Bolin, the Indian sub-agent for Washington went
to the Yakima village, and instead of judging of the case
iinpiu'tially, made use of threats in the nanie of the United
Slates Government, saying that an army should be sent to
pmiisii them for killing his people. On his return home,
Mr, IJoiin was followed and murdered.
Tiie murder of an Indian agent was an act which could
not be overlooked. Very properly, the case should have
been taken notice of in a manner to convince the Indians
that murder must be punished. But, tempted by an op-
portunity for gain, and encouraged by the somewhat rea-
sonable fears of the white population of Washington and
Oregon, Governor G. L. Curry, of the latter, at once pro-
claimed war, and issued a call for volunteers, without wait-
ing for the sanction or assistance of the general Govern-
ment. The moment this was done, it was too late to re-
tract. It was as if a torch had been applied to a field of
dry grass. So simultaneously did the Indians from Puget
Sound to the Rocky Mountains, and from the Rocky Moun-
tains to the southern boundary of Oregon send forth the
war-whoop, that there was much justification for the belief
which agitated the people, that a combination among the
Indians had been secretly agreed to, and that the whites
were all to be exterminated. t
''.iiil'!W>'i(*C?**'^'iiK:^¥^'l*-:.'.:
508
THE INDIAN WAR OF 1855-0. 10
Volunteer companies were already raised and sent into
the Indian country, when Brevet Major G. 0. Haller ar-
rived at Vancouver, now a [)art of the United States. He
had been as far east as Fort Boise to protect the incoraino-
immigration ; and finding on his return that there was an
Indian war on hand, proceeded at once to the Yakima
country v, ith his small force of one hundred men, only
fifty of whom were mounted. Much solicitude was felt
for the result of the nrst engagement, every one knowintf
that if the Indu.ns were at first successful, the war would
be long and bloody.
Major Haller was defeated wiih considerable loss, and
notwithstanding slight reinforcements, from Fort Vancou-
ver, only succeeded in getting safely out of the country.
Mfijor Haines, the commanding ofPcer at Vancouver, seeing
the direction of events, made a requisition upon Governor
Curry for -four of his volunteer companies to go into the
field. Then followed applications to Major llainf^s for
horses and arms lo equip the volunteers ; but the horses
at the Fort being unlit for service, and the Major unau-
thorized to equip volunteer troops, there resulted only
misunderstandings and delays. When General Wool, at
the head of the Deparrment in Sail Francisco, was con-
sulted, he also was without authority to employ or receive
the voluntc s; and when the volunteers, who at length
armed and equipped themselves, came to go into the field
with the regulars, they couid not agree as to the mode of
fighting Indians ; so that with one thing and another, the
war became an exciting topic for more reasons tiian be-
cause the w^hi'.es were afraid of the Indians. As for Gen-
e^al Wool, he was in great disfavor both in Oregon and
Washington because he did not believe there ever had
existed the necessity for, a war ; and that therefore he
bestowed what assistance was at his command very grudg-
«i
OFFlGEllS OF THE WAR — VOLUNTEEllS,
509
iii<vly. General Wool, it was said, was jealous of the vol-
unteers ; and the volunteers certainly cared little for the
opinion of General Wool.
However all that may be, Col. Meek gives it as his opin-
ion that the okl General was right. " It makes me think,"
ml he, " of a bear-light 1 once saw in the Rocky Moun-
tains, where a huge old grizzly was surrounded by a pack
of ten or twelve dogs, all snapping at and worrying him.
It made hira powerful mad, and every now and then he
woukl make a claw at one of them that silenced him at
once.
The Indian war in Oregon gave practice to a number of
officers, since become famous, most prominent among
whom, is Sheridan, who served in Oregon as a Tiieutenant.
Grant himself, was at one time a Captain on that frontier.
Col. Wright, afterwards Gen. Wright, succeeded Major
Raines at Vancouver, and conducted the war through its
most active period. During a period of three years there
were troops constantly occupied in trying to subdue the
Indians in one quarter or another.
As for the volunteers they fared badly. On the first
call to arms the people responded liberally. The proposi-
tion which the Governor made for their equipment was
accepted, and they turned in their property at a certain
valuation. When the war was over and the property sold,
the men who had turned it in could not purchase it with-
ont paying more for it in gold and silver than it was val-
ued at when it was placed in the hands of the Quarter-
master. It was sold, however, and the money enjoyed by
the shrewd political speculators, who thought an Indian
war a very good investment. "
Meek was one of the first to volunteer, and went as a
private in Company A. On arriving at the Dalles he was
detailed for special service by Col. J. W. Nesmith, and
l
510
MAJOR MEEK AS A VOLUNTEER.
i
t
1
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i
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sent out as pilot or messenger, whenever any such duty
was required. He tjrs finally placed on Nesmith's staff
and given the title of Major. In this capacity, as iu every
other, ho was still the same alert and willing individual
tiiat we have always seen him, and not a whit less inclined
to be merry when an opportunity offered.
While the army was in the Yakima country, it being an
enemy's country, and provisions scarce, the troops some-
times were in want of rations. But Meek had not fovi^ot-
ten his mountain craft, and always had something to eat,
if anybody did. One evening he had killed a fat cow
which he had discovered astray, and was proceeding to
roast a twenty-pound piece before his camp-fire, when a
number of the officers called on him. The sight and sa-
vory smell of the beef was very grateful to them.
"Major Meek," said they in a breath, "we will sup with
you to-night." i.
"I am very sorry, gentlemen, to decline the honor,"
returned Meek with a repetition of the innocent surprise
for which ho had so often been laughed at, "but lam
very hungry, and thar is barly enough beef for one
man!"
On hearing this sober assertion, those who had heard
the story laughed, but th.o rest looked rather aggrieved.
However, the Major continued his cooking, and when the
beef was done to a turn, he invited his visitors to the
feast, and the evening passed merrily with jests and camp
stories.
After the army went into winter-quarters, Nesmith hav-
ing resigned, T. R. Cornelius was elected Colonel. One
of his orders prohibited firing in camp, an order which as
a good mountaineer the Major should ha\"e remembered.
But having been instructed to proceed to Salem without
delay, as bearer of dispatches, the Major committed the
"marking time."
511
ciTor of firing his gun to see if it was in good condition
for a trip through the enemy's country. Shortly after he
received a message from his Colonel requesting him to
repair to his tent. The Colonel received him politely, and
invited him to breakftist with him. The aroma of coffee
made this invitation peculiarly acceptable — for luxuries
were scarce in camp — and the breakfast proceeded for
some time very agreeably. When Meek had breakfasted,
Colonel Cornelius took occasion to inquire if the Major
kd not heard hia order against, firing in camp. " Yes,"
said Meek. "Then," said the Colonel, "I shall be
obliged to make an example of you."
While Meek stood aghast at the idea of j /unishment, a
guard appeared at the door of the tent, and he heard
what his punishment was to be, " Mark time for twenty
minutes in the presence of the whole regiment."
"When the command "forward! was given," says Meek,
"you might have seen somebody step off lively, the offi-
cer counting it off, 'left, left.* But some of the regiment
grumbled more about it than I did. I just got my horse
and my dispatches and left for the lower country, and
when I returned I asked for my discharge, and got it."
And here ends the career of our hero as a public man.
The history of the young State, of which he is so old a
pioneer furnishes ample material for an interesting volume,
and will sometime be written by an abler than our sketchy
pen. One thing only it occurs to us to state in connec-
tion with it, that while Fiany Northern men went, as Gen.
Lane did, into the rebellion against the Government, our
noliler Virginian was ever sternly loyal.
The chief excitement of Col. Meek's life at present, is
in his skirmishes with the Nazerene and other preachers
in his neighborhood. They seem not to bo able to see
him treading so gently the downhill of life, when they
33
i.'^'.
512
END OF MEEK S PUBLIC CAREEU.
#,
^
M'
fear he may " go to the pit " prepared for mountain-uien.
In this state of mind they preach at him on every possible
occasion, whether suitable or not, and usually he takes it
f pleasantly enough. But when their attacks become too
■ personal, he does as did the bear to whom he likened Gen,
Wool, he "hits one a claw that silences him."
Being very much annoyed on one occasion, not very
long since, by the stupid and vulgar L^peech of a
*' preacher " whom he complimented by going to hear, he
deliberately marched up to the preacher's desk, took the
frightened little orator on his hip, and carried him out of
the house, to the mingled horror, amazement, and amuse-
ment of the congregation. ."»
We think that a man who at fifty-eight is able to per-
form such a feat, is capable of achieving fresh laurels, and
need not retire upon those he has won.
... ^ I ■
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- ^ ^■-;»^' '.'"I'r^-" (?M^>I f> A t'iij
THE NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD.
CHAPTER XLV.
513
14
It was no part of the original intention of the author
of the foregoing narrative to extend the work beyond
the personal adventures of one man, and such portions
of collateral, history as were necessary to a perfect under-
standing of the times and events spoken of But since
the great interest which the public have taken in the
opening of the first Pacific Railroad has become apparent,
it has been deemed expedient to subjoin some facts con-
cerning the Western Division of the Northern Pacific Rail-
road, now in contemplation, and to become a reality,
probably, within an early day.
The Northern Pacific Road will have its eastern end
somewhere on Lake Superior, and its western terminus at
a point on Puget's Sound not yet determined. As that
portion of the road lying west of Fort Union, on the
Missouri River, traverses much of the country spoken of
in the adventures of the fur-traders, as well as all the
northern part of what was once the Oregon Territory,
whose early history we have already given, it will not be
found altogether irrelevant to enter into a brief descrip-
tion of the country so soon to be opened to the traveling
pubUc. Hitherto we have roamed it in imagination as
the fur-traders did, bent only on beaver-cskins and adven-
ture. Now we will briefly consider it as a country fit for
the permanent settlement of industrious Peoples seeking
homes for themselves and the coming generations.
014
WESTERN OREGON.
I ^i
|.^ i !
Western Oregon. — To commence with the oldest set-
tled portion of the original Oregon Territory, we will
first describe that portion of the present State of Oreo'on
technically known as Western Oregon. All that portion
of the State of Oregon lying west of the Cascade Moun-
tains, is comprised in three principal valleys — the Walla-
met,* the Umpqua, and the Rogue Hiver Valleys — and in
a narrow strip of country lying along the coast, and sepa-
rated from the valleys by the Coast range of mountains.
These two ranges of mountains, the Cascades, high and
almost inaccessible on the east, and the Coast range, sepa-
rating it from the sea on the west, make of Western Ore
gon a country with a very peculiar geography. With
the Columbia River for a northern boundary, and with
three transverse ranges of mountains to the south, sepa-
rating the several valleys, the situation of Western Oregon
is isolated and unique.
. The Wallamet River takes its rise in the Cascade Moun-
tains, flowing westwardly for some distance, when it takes
a course almost directly north, and falls into the Columbia
in about latitude 45° 30', and longitude 45° 40'. The
whole length of this river is probably not over one hun-
dred and seventy-five miles ; and the extent of its valley
proper is in the neighborhood of one hundred and twenty-
five miles in length, by from sixty to eighty in breadth.
Numerous tributaries flow into the Wallamet from either
side, making the country both fertile and agreeable.
The Wallamet Valley is mostly open prairie land, ready
for the plowshare. At the northern end of it, however,
and within a few miles of the Columbia, there are dense
forests of fir, pine, yew, and cedar, on all the high and
dry lands, while the bottom-lands along the streams are
* Incorrectly spelled on the maps, Willamette.
THE WALLAMET VALLEY.
515
covered with a fine growth of oak, ash, maple, cotton-
wood, alder, and willow. But as we travel southward
from the Columbia, the timber along the Wallamet be-
comes less dense, until finally we come to the beautiful
open prairies, only half hidden from view by a thin fringe
of low trees, and picturesquely dotted here and there by
(Troves of oak and fir intermingled. i
The Prairies of Western Oregon do not resemble the
immense flat plains of Illinois ; but are rather gently un-
dulating, and bear a strong likeness to the " oak open-
ings" of Michigan and Wisconsin. Instead of being con-
tinuous levels, they are divided by low ranges of hills,
covered with oak timber, low and spreading, and draped,
like the trees of the Sacramento Valley, with a long
hanging gray moss, that floats lightly on the summer
wind, as if celebrating the delightful mildness and beauty
of the scene.
The Wallamet, although navigable for one hundred and
thirty miles from its mouth, is, like all the rivers west of
the Rocky Mountains, troubled with rapids, and narrowed
in some places to little more than the width of the passing
steamer. In the latter part of summer, steamers cannot :
ascend it beyond Salem, the capital of the State. Of its ;
ten principal tributaries, most of them are navigable for •
considerable distances, and all of them furnish abundant
water-power. .,,,^., ., ^.,. ,-,.,.., ..^^ — ^„..
The Falls of the Wallamet^ about twenty-five miles ;
from its junction with the Columbia, furnish the greatest
water-power in the State, as also some fine scenery.
Above the falls, the water spreads out into a wide, deep ?
basin, and runs slowly and smoothly until within a half- '^
mile of the falls, when its width diminishes, its velocity
increases, and in its haste it turns back upon itself, form-
ing dangerous eddies, until at length, forced forward, it ^
'\ '•
li^i UM
516
WESTERN OREGON. '- fn.fO JIHT
! i
makes the plunge of more than twenty feet, into a boilhiff
whirlpo )1 below, and breaks into foam along a ledge of
volcanic rock stretching from shore to shore. The spray
dashed up by the descent of the water, forms a beautiful
rainbow, besides being a means of cooling the hot air of
the summer noon at Oregon City, which is situated along
the rocky bluffs at this point of the river, a/j ^'^RHWffe
The navigation of the river thus interrupted, formerly
necessitated a portage of a couple of miles at Oregon
City ; but recently the People's Transportation Company
have erected a strong basin on the east side of the river,
which permits their boats to come so close together that
the passengers and freight have only to pass through the
Company's warehouse to be transferred.
The amount of agricultural land in the Wallamet Val-
ley is estimated at about three million acres. This esti-
mate leaves out large bodies of land in the foot-hills of
the mountains, on either side, more suitable for grazing
than for farming purposes. - ■ •• - •
T/ie Soil of the Wallamet Valley is of excellent quality.
Upon the prairies it consists of gray, calcareous, sandy
loam, especially adapted to the cultivation of cereals, par-
ticularly of wheat, barley, and oats. It is exceedingly
mellow and easily worked, and is not affected by drouth.
Along the banks of the river, and the streams tributary
to it, the soil consists of various decomposed earths, sand,
and vegetable matter, deposited there in seasons of freshet,
and is of the most fertile description. The soil of the
foot-hills is a dark clay loam, mixed with vegetable mold
in the small intervening valleys. Excellent grasses are
produced, though this kind of soil suffers more from
drouth than that of the prairies.
. The CJi mate of the Wallamet Fa??e?/ is mild and agreeable.
The seasons are two, — the wet and the dry. The rainy
THE CLIMATE OF THE WALLAMET VALLEY.
517
jionson nsually commences in November, although fre-
quently it holds off, except a few light showers, until De-
conil^er. The rains continue pretty constantly until about
tlie last of January, when there is a clearing up of three
or four weeks. This interval is the real winter season,
and is sometimes cold, with frozen ground, or snow, though
frciierally the Oregon winters are not characterised either
by cold or snow to any great amount. After this "clear
spell " comes a second season of rains which may clear up
by the first of March, or not until April. It is not an un-
usual thing for gardening to be commenced in February ;
but the result of this early gardening is not always sure.
WheK the rains of winter have passed, there are occa-
sional showers until the first of July, after which there is
a dry period of four months. This dry season instead of
being oppressive, as would be the case in the Atlantic
States, is most delightful. Sufficient moisture is borne in
from the sea, over the tops of the Coast range to make the
air of a fine coolness and freshness, and not enough to
make it humid. Thus there is a fine, dry, cool air, with a
moderate temperature, and a dry warm earth, which makesi
an Oregon summer the most charming season to be expe-
rienced in any part of the world. The nights are always
cool enough to make a blanket necessary. The mornings
bright and not too hot — the heated term during dog-days
only extending over the hours from 12 M. to 4 P. M.
That a climate such as this must be healthful is undeni-
able. During the falling of the rains there is little or no
sickness. Just after the rain ceases falling, and before the
earth becomes dry, the rapid evaporation causes colds and
coughs to the careless or the inexperienced. Through the
dry season there is little sickness except in certain locali-
ties where, as in all new countries, malaria is formed by
the exposure to the sun of new or submerged soila..;i^ . -r
'.if!
518
WESTERN OIIEOON.
One of the faults, so to spoak, of Western Oregon is
its .nildness of climate. The agricultural population are
prone to be negligent in providing for that irregular, and
uncertainly certain occasional visitation, a " hard winter."
Therefore the stock-raiser who has his several hundred
head of cattle and horses ranging his one or two thousand
acres of uplands, and who, trusting in Providence, makes
no sufficient provision for a month or six weeks of feed-
ing, is liable once in five to eight years, to lose nearly all
of his stock, ^id this same stock-raiser have to get his
cattle through seven months of winter as many eastern
farmers do, he might come at last to be willing to provide
for the possible six weeks. Cattle in Oregon generally
look poor in the spring, because the farmers allow them
to shift for themselves all through the rainy season, which
they should not do. For this reason. Western Oregon, al-
though naturally the best of dairy countries, furnishes Ht-
tie butter and cheese, and that often of a poor quality.
An influx of Central New York dairymen would greatly
benefit the state, and develop one of its surest means of
wealth.
The Productions of the Wallamet Valley are wheat, oats,
barley, rye, wool, and fruits. All of the grains grow
abundantly, and are of unusual excellence. The same is
true of such fruits as apples, pears, plums, cherries, cur-
rants, gooseberries, strawberries, blackberries, raspberries,
etc. In fact all fruits do well in Western Oregon, except
grapes, peaches, apricots, nectarines, and that class of
fruits which love a dry and hot climate. Grapes and
peaches can be raised with sufficient care, but are not a
natural crop like the first mentioned fruits. Corn is not
raised as a crop, on account of the cool nights, which are
not favorable to its ripening. .--ir:- ; j, < 'i^hiR
Tlie Umpqua Valley is that portion of Western Oregon
TUE COAST COUNTRY,
519
next south of the WalLamct Valley, being divided from it
by a range of mountains bearing tl»o Indian name of Cala-
pooya. It is a region not so well fitted for grain-raising
as the Wallamet valley, but is perhaps superior as a fruit-
growing and wool-raising section. The valley is watered
hy tlie Umpqua River, and is broken up into numerous
hills and valleys, in the most picturesque manner. It is
one of the most beautiful portions of the Pacific Coast,
being rolling, well, without being densely wooded, and
having a very agreeable climate, with rather less rain than
falls in the lower altitude of the Wallamet.
The Rogue River Valley is another division of Western
Oregon, divided from the Umpqua vfHey by a range of
mountains bearing the name of Umpqua, It resembles
the country just described in general, but has a climate
which is a happy mixture of Californian dryness aud Oro-
gonian moisture. It is not considered a grain-growing coun-
try to any great extent ; not from any inadaptability of
the soil, but because it is a very superior grazing and fruit-
jrrowing country, and has also a considerable mining noto-
riety. It is separated from northern California by the
Liskiyou range of mountains, and watered by the Rogue
River and its northern tributaries. fr^.^j;
The Coast Country consists of a strip of land from five
to twelve miles wide, lying between the westernmost range
of mountains in Oregon, and the sea. It contains several
counties, whose chief agricultural merits consist in the ex-
cellence of their grasses and vegetables. Fruit too, grows
very well in the Coast counties. Hops and honey, as well
as butter, are among their chief farming products. But
the greatest wealth of the Coas't counties is probably to be
derived from the heavy forests of timber which cover the
mountain sides ; and from the mines of coal and copper
which underlie them. - .^i^o^.w*'
520
WK9TKUN OREGON.
! i
A number of points have already become quite famous
for business alon<^ tlio coast; Coose Bay for its coal ami
lumber; Tilamook for its oysters; and Yaquina for its
good harborage, and easy access through a fine niitural
pass to the heart of the Wallamet valley. The port of
Umpqua once promised to become a point of some import-
ance, but latterly has fallen into neglect from the difficulty
of communicating thence with the interior.
The climate of the Coast counties is cooler and more
moist than that of the valleys to the eastward, on account
of their contiguity to the sea. Their soil is deep, black,
and rich, supporting an immense growth of shrubbery,
and ferns from ten to fourteen feet in height. The prai-
rie spots are covered with grass, and so are the hill-sides
wherever the timber is not too dense. Though the mean
temperature of the Coast counties is lower than that of the
interior, it is also more even ; and the sea-fogs in summer
as well as the rains in winter serve to keep the natural
grasses in excellent condition. In short every circum-
stance seems to point to the Coast counties of Oregon as
the great dairy region of the Pacific Coast, as the valleys
of the interior are the granaries, and the hill-sides the
sheep-pastures.
Good feed the year round, grain enough for the wants
of the farmer, plenty of cold mountain water, abundance
of timber, plenty of game and fish, are all inducements to
the settler who wishes to make himself a permanent home
on the Pacific Slope. These, added to the wealth yet to
be developed in mines and lumber at every opening where
a vessel of a hundred tons can enter, make the future of
these now almost vacant Coast counties look inviting.
Mesiime of the Soil^ Climate and Resources of Western,
Oregon. — From the foregoing general description of West-
ern Oregon it will be seen that the country lying between
SOIL, CLIMATK, KESOUli' KS,
521
the Cusoado Mountains and the Coast range, consists of
one viilley containing about as much agricultural land of
the best quality as would make a State of the size of Con-
necticut, and two other smaller valhjys, with a less ])ropor-
tioii of farming land, and a greater proportion of hill and
pasture lands. Also that between the Coast range and
the ocean is a strip of country wide enough for a tier of
counties, peculiarly adapted to grazing purposes, yet not
without considerable arable land.
No one can survey the Wallamet Valley without being
struck with its beauty and its fertility, and many are found
who pronounce it the most beautiful spot in America. Its
beauty consists in the agreeable intermixture of level or
rolling prairies, with ranges of low hills, dotted with oak
timber, in the multitude of its winding rivers, along which
grow a skirting of graceful trees, and in the grandeur of
the mountains which guard it alike from the heat of the
eastern deserts, and the cold of ihe northern ocean. Its
fertility is evident from the mighty forests which mantle
the hills in everlasting green, and from the grassy plains
which year after year clothe the valley with renewed ver-
dure, as well as from the golden harvest fields which man
has interspersed among the universal green. ^ >•* -
The question which first suggests itself is concerning
the durability of the soil which produces so well in a wild
state. A sketch of the history of agriculture in Oregon
will serve to point to an answer.
Many portions of Oregon have been cultivated for a
period of twenty-five years without any of those aids to
the soil, or that care in preparation and cultivation which
is thought necessary to keep up the quality of soils in
other farming States. This thriftless mode of farming was
the result, partly of an absence of laborers and good
farming utensils, for the first fifteen years of the occupa-
522
WESTERN OREGON.
V i ■
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tion of Oregon by a farming community. From tlie neces-
sity of [)()or farming grew the habit. It was found that the
earth would continue to produce when only half-cultivtitou
hence ff.rmers grew indolent from too great security. The
great regularity of the seasons too, by which the maturing
of crops became a certainty, contributed to this general
indiilerence, for it is an established fact that in order to
work well, men must be in some sort compelled to work.
Another reason why farmers have not put themselves
upon their mettle in a generous emulation, was, that for
many years farm products were worth little or nothing for
want of a market. All these reasons conspired to confirm
a habit of indifi'erent cultivation, which accident and the
condition of the country first forced upon theui. Yet
these same lands do not appear to have suffered very ma-
terially from this long course of impoverishment. <- ??^« ;
Yet another cause of poor farming has been in the fact
of so large bodies of land having been held as sing!" farms.
It is impossible, of course, for one family to ciUtivate a
mile square of land. Hence a little grain was scratched
in on one portion of the claim, and a little more on another,
and all so scattered, and carelessly done that no first-^ate
crops could possibly be obtained.
The soil of the prairies is of a dark gray color, is mel-
low, and not affected by drouth. It is especially adapted
to cereals, and grows vegetables and fruits well, but not
so well as the more alluvial soil formed im.mediately along
the banks of the rivers and streams. It is found, too, that
ihuv portion of the prairie which grows ferns, and the land
which skirts the oak groves, or has been clear': i of tim-
ber, is more favorable to fruit-grf)wing than the more
compact soil of the prairie. The timbered lands every
where are productive, excepting occasional clay ridge?
where pines are found. The prairies still furnish grass in
SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES.
523
ay color, Is mel-
abuiuliinco for hay, but not of such quality nor in such
(jiian.tity as the swampti, swales, and beaver-dams near the
rivers and in the L.eavy timber when drained and cleared.
Of tlic several varieties of soil in Western Ore^^on,
there are none that are not sufficiently productive to in-
vite labor with a promise of reward. The whole face of
the country is productive, and wherever the hillsides are
not too steep to pitch a tent, those things needed by man
may be made to grow abundantly.
Climate, however, and the shape of the country govern
men in their selection of occupations. The grain-farmer
v.ill keep to the valleys; the fruitgrower will occupy the
gentle slopes of the lowest hills ; the stock-raiser will set-
tle among the foot-hills, and take his sheep to the moun-
tains; while the dairy-man will seek those spots where
grass is good for the longest period of time, and where
the temperature favors the making of good, solid and
sweet butter and cheese.
The nights in Western Oregon are always cooj, and sleep
becomes a regular refreshment. It is owing to the low
temperature of the nights that corn and some varieties of
fruit have commonly failed. However the proper cultiva-
tion will yet produce those things in a sufficient abundance.
Good corn has Ijeen raised in Western Oregon, and peaches
of splendid size and flavor occasionally find their way to
market. Apples, cherries, and plums of unequalled size
and excellence grow m astonishing profusion.
The winters of Western Oregon, though I'ainy, ara gen-
erally mild. The principal hardship of the rainy season
consists in simply enduring the monotony of the dull sky
and constant rain. It is, however, a favorable climate for
the farmer, since he is not forced to work hard all the
summer to raise what his stock will need to eat through
524
WESTKIIN OREGON.
the winter. A fortnight's feed usually suffices for the
wintering of cattle.
The following tables show the comparative mean tem-
peratures of three points in Oregon, with four in other
States : also the number of rainy days in Oregon and Illi-
nois, respectively :
.-M-
Table I. — Showing Comparative Mean Temperatures.
^'('\t>rj
Time.
a
?c
O
1
<
d
o
1
in
1
'o
.s
i
CO
S
bc
3
d
S
1
'3
rt
1
s
as
<
3
.5
3
Years of Observation ....
n
H
3i
11?
2
42.33
69.95
42.60
13.06
41.97
51
24
47.G1
70.17
50.01
25.83
48.41
47.36
71.42
50.34
25.88
48.75
Spring Temperature
Summer "
Autumn "
Winter «
Whole Time "
51.16
61.36
53.55
42.43
52.13
52.19
67.18
53.41
39.27
53.00
53.00
70.36
52.21
35.59
52.79
51.34
72.51
53.38
29.80
51.76
59.97
71.08
64.36
52.29
61.93
The only point in Eastern Oregon, whose temperature
is exhibited in this table, is Dalles, which, situated as it
is, immediately at the base of the Cascade Mountains,
does not fairly represent the temperature of the extensive
valleys farther east, which constitute the agricultural re
gion of that country. The summer, in most of those val-
leys, as well as on the table-lands, is much warmor than at
the Dalles. The winter temperature, it will be oWrved,
is much higher than that of other States in the ^me lati
tude, while that of the spring is nearly tk« 8»Me, and the
summer not quite so high.
Jir
ilm
SOIL, CLIilATE, KESOURCES.
525
' suffices for tlie
irative mean tern-
ith four in other
L Oregon and lUi-
mperatures.
V. ~tS„^..,,
'••^iiaV'
c
i
o
CJ
N
o
to
o
5
a
>^
c
c«
<
24
47.61
70.17
50.01
25.83
48.41
C4
A
sT
s
g*
3
ft
31
47,36
71.42
50.34
25.88
48.75
2
5^
12.33
39.95
12.60
.3.06
.1.97
59.97
71.08
64.36
52.29
61.93
lose temperature
h, situated as it
cade Mountains,
of the extensive
agricultural re
LOst of those val-
1 warnior !han at
rill be oK'«erved,
in the ^aiiie lati
u^ same, aiid the
T.iUi.E U.—Shomng the Number of Rainy Days during the Winter, at Astoria^
Oregon, Wallamel Valley, Oregon, and Peoria, Illinois, respectively.
Month.
XdVlilllxT. . .
IVccinln'r. . .
, JaiiMiiry ....
; February . . .
Total
Astoria, Oregon.
Wiillamot
Vallfty, 0.
Pooria, 111.
1857-8
1858-9
1859-60
1856-7
1856-7
1857-8
21
16
19
9
9
16
25
14
15
13
10
7
17
19
19
15
4
6
9
20
17
6
10
8
72
69
70
43
83
37
This table includes all rainy days, without reference to
wliether it rained all day, or only a part. It also includes
snowy days, very few of which are seen in Oregon, in an
ordinary winter.
The climate of Oregon has proven to be a healthful one
(luring a thirty years' residence of some of the earliest
missionaries and settlers, no far as natural causes are con-
cerned, there appears to be none for the promotion of
disease, if we except the tendency to pulmonary and rheu-
matic diseases for which both California and Oregon are
fiuned, and which no doubt is to be credited to the cold
winds from the ocean. These winds in themselves are a
smitary provision of nature, and servo to give the Pacific
coast a climate generally free from jaiiasmatic and pestilen-
tial diseases ; but it is necessary for sensitive constitutions
to guard against the rapid change of temperature which
they effect when they come .^weeping in from the sea.
sudtlonly displacing the warm air of the valleys. With
proper cai\\ and attention to the most manifest laws of
herlth, the physical man has a. better opportunity for rnag-
niticont development, on the Pacific coaHt, than in any
other part of the Auior'^an continent.
While the winters of Western Oregon are dull awl di^
F»g. ,i>X.F.tM.1.
ii4J^
52(j
WE8TEUN OREGON.
agreeable, the summers are proportionately deliohtful
The general temperature of the days is mild and a<Teea-
ble, the air bright and clear, warmer in the afternoons
than in the mornings, invariably ; yet falling again to aa
invigorating coolness in the evening. Sultriness is almost
never experienced in this part of Oregon. The greatest
heat of summer has not that enervating eifect which tlie
summer-heats have in the Atlantic States. It is frequently
remarked by the farmers here that their cattle can endure
to work right on under the hottest sun of summer with-
out showing signs of exhaustion, as they would have done
in those States from which they were brought.
From the peculiarities of the soil, seasons, and chmate
of Western Oregon, it becomes necessary for the farmer
to practice modes of culture especially adapted to it, and
to conform to other seed-time than that he may have been
accustomed to in other States. Much can undoubtedly
be learned from old Oregon farmers ; but a careful obser-
vation from year to year, with a little judicious experi-
ment, will, we hope, develop among the newer settlers
a better manner of farming than that formerly practiced
in Oregon, when one year's cultivation was made to an-
swer for three years' crops— the two latter of which were
of course self-sown.
While the yield of wheat is perhaps no greater than
that of the Genesee valley, or the rich prairies of Indiana
or son th western Michigan, the crop is far more sure, from
the absence of insects, rust, winter-killing, etc. Perhaps
not more than twice since the .'ettlement of the Wallamet
Valley has the wheat crop been injured by rain in harvest
time. As a general thing the straw is short and stout, and
^ the grain is never laid down by summer tempests of wind
and rain.
Peas sown broadcast, with or without oats, bring a pro-
\\
SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES.
527
)iiatoly delightful.
s mild and agreea-
in the afternoons
idling again to an
Sultriness is almost
:on. The greatest
g effect which the
3. It is frequently
' cattle can endure
a of summer with-
' would have done
rought. ,,v
;asons, and chmate
ary for the farmer
adapted to it, and
he may have been
can undoubtedly
lUt a careful obser-
! judicious experi-
ho newer settlers
foi'merly practiced
was made to an-
-er of which were
s no greater than
jrairies of Indiana
vr more sure, from
ng, etc. Perhaps
t of the Wallamet
by rain in harvest
ort and stout, and
tempests of wind
oats, bring a pro*
iuct about equal to wheat; and are the best crop for fat-
■iiiiu'- hogs, requiring little labor, and producing a fine
;;ialitv of pork by turning the hogs into the field in the
fall and letting t^em fatten there. Bacon brings a high
price in the mines, and is one of the most valuable posses-
sions of the farmer. The rapid increase of sheep in Oro-
ijon gives the sheep-raiser a large surplus every year
above what he can afford to keep for their wool, and of
this surplus quite a number every year may be sold for
mutton at homo, or driven to the mines, where they com-
mand a good price.
The whole country west of the Rocky Mountains is fa-
vorably adapted to fruit-growing, and no portion of it
more so than Western Oregon. Trees of three years'
ffrowth bend to the earth under their burdens of fruit.
Before the tree matures its strength it bears at a rate so
irondeiiul that without artificial support the branches split
away from the main tree. Apple trees less than two
inches in diameter, with branches no mor# than three-
quarters of an inch in thickness are so crowded with ap-
ples as to leave very little of the stock visible. We have
counted forty large apples on a limb of the thickness
mentioned above, and no more than four feet and a half
long, — a mere rod. Plum and pear trees bear in the san o
manner. Cherries are equally prolific, but peaches sel-
dom crowd the tree in Western Oregon, though they do
in Eastern Oregon. Probably the best treatment to give
young fruit trees in Oregon would be to pull off the great-
er portion of the fruit for the first year or two in order
that the trees might mature their strength. No doubt it
Aould also add to the flavor of the fruit, though that
seems to be always excellent.
" Wildljorries are very abundnnt. Home of whkV arc jioruliarly delirious.
Thf benies ure straw 1»«»tIoi», dewbenies, whortl«.>WiTit;s. s»lliilb(;rries, black aud
84
528
WESTERN OREGON.
yellow raspberries, gf)osebemos, juneberries, and (-ranberries. The cranborrii .
are good, but found in abundance only in tbc vicinity of the ocean ; the junc sal-
mon, and <roosel)erries are nut particularly desirable; the dew, sallal, andras'-
berries iu'iMtliolce, and (jiiite abundant ; and the .straw and whortleberries an
fc>i'-iiii'ly abinidant and delicious, llui prairies may be truly said to be liter
ally red with strawberries, and the timbered openiii;j;.s blue with whortlebcrric,
in their season. The seasv>n of ripe strawberries is from three to six wwiis,
and that of whortleberries from six to ten weeks. The whortleberry bush,
except in the mountains, like the Umpqua plnm shrub, is borne prostrate nm
tyie earth's grassy covering, from the weight of its delicious fruit. The wild
strawberry of Oregon is larger and better than any we have ever scon, except
the largest of the large garden cultivated Ei glisli strawberry. The whortle-
berry has more acidity than tliose of unshaded growth, growing east of tk'
mountains. Eiiglish gooseberries and currants are cultivated here with suc-
cess."
The native grasses of Western Oregon are blue-grass,
and red and white clover. The grass formerly grew verv
tall on the prairies but has been so much eaten off and
tramT)led out by numerous herds of cattle, that it is now
mucii shorter. When sown in favorable situations, timo
thy will grow to a height of between five and six feet.
The timbbr of Western Oregon consists of pine, fir,
cedar, oak, spruce, hemlock, cotton -wood, cherry, and
maplo. Probnbly there is no country in the world where
timber grows so strikingly straight and beautiful, and to
such gigantic altitude and dimensions as in Oregon. Two
hundred feet is but a moderate height for the growth of
firs, cedars, and spruce, and they frequently attain a much
greater altitude. We have seen elder growing in Oregon
three feet in circumference, and hazel thirty inches in rir-
cumference, and of the height of forty feet. Black alder
and a species of laurel grow to what would be termed, in
most countries, large trees — ^logs of alder have been ob
tained thirty-two inches in diameter, and of the laurel
four feet in diameter. In Western Oregon groves of tiro
ber are found skirting and separating prairies ; but the
immense timber districts are mainly <;onfined to the neigli-
BOIL, CLIMATK, RESOURCES.
529
borhood of the coast of the Pacific, to tlie Coast, Cascade
■M'\ iihie ranges of mountains, and the immediate vicinity
of the rivers.
The lir is seen almost solely on the western slope of the
Cascade Mountains, along the Columbia River from where
it breaks through that range until it passes through the
coast range, on the eastern slope of the Coast Mountains,
and along the rivers and upon the mountains almost any
where between the summits of these two principal ranges.
It is evci'y where slightly mixed with spruce, hemlock,
cedar, and yew. The pine is generally found in ridges or
patches by itself, except on the west side of the Coast
liuige where it grows with hemlock, spruce, and cedar.
WiHow grows along all the ^tr^ams, and acquires consid-
erable size. Ash, oak, maple, cotton-wood, and alder also
grow wherever the ground is low and moist.
The shrubbery of Oregon is very beautiful and in great
variety. There are several varieties of alder, bearing,
sever , light purple, scarlet and orange colored berries.
The d cherry is a light and graceful tree, having a
small, clear scarlet fruit, that is very beautiful, and ex-
ceedingly bitter. The tree-whortleberry has a very dimin-
utive leaf, almost round, and a small crimson berry tasting
much like a barberry. There are two smaller whortle-
berry shrubs corresponding to those of the Atlantic States,
called swamp and mountain whortleberries. There are
several varieties of wild cun^ants, one of which is useless
as a ruit, but is most beautiful as a flowering shrub.
White spirea, and golden honeysuckle thrust their white
or golden blossoms through every thicket, and with the
white svrinofa and wild rose, festoon the rivrr banks and
hill sides until they seem one bed of bloom. The hand-
some shrubbery, and the abundant wild flowers of Oregon,
atone greatly for the want of greater variety in the forest
I .'
530
WESTERN OREGON.
tints ; and the case with wlich flowers may be cultivated
for the adornment of homes is one of the greatest recom-
mendations of tlie climate. Nature has been lavish, thoufrh
man may be indiiferent. If ever a wilderness might be
made to blossom as the rose, that wilderness is Oregon.
Few of the old settlers of Oregon have cared, however
to take advantage of the facilities allbrded them for beau-
tifying their homesteads, and it is more common to find a
house without garden or shrubbery than with either; a
peculiarity as strange as it is inexcusable.
Though Western Oregon is especially adapted to agri-
cultural and pastoral pursuits, the present indications of
mineral wealth make it almost certain that the miner's
pick, as well as the farmer's plow, must furrow the face of
mother Earth, west of the Cascade Mountains. This dis-
covery was not sought after by the people of Oregon, who
were firmly fixed in their belief that it was as an agricul-
tural and manufacturing State that they were to achieve
their highest destiny. But when gold and silver, iron,
coal, and copper, are knocking for admittance as State re-
sources, they cannot and will not be denied. They will
be accepted as aids to manufactures and commerce ; and
will be taken in connection with forests of splendid tim-
ber and ri-- ers of unfailing water-power, as the means by
which Oregon is to acquire her future status as one of the
most importan States of the T'^nion.
Since the re )eated tests by which the Santiam gold-
bearing quartz has been found to yield $160 to the ton,
other discoveries have been made, and will continue to be
inade in the Cascade Moinitains. Already the mining
town of Quartzville has started up in the Santiam district,
and another town called Copperopolis, about ten miles to
the southeast has sprung into existence near the copper
mines. Discoveries of gold have recently been made in
SOIL, CLIMATK, UEHOUIU'ES.
681
riackamas County; but as no actual test has yot ])oon
iiiiuU' of the (quality of the ores, we cannot speak of their
value.
It is sufficioTit to say that enough is known of the min-
eral resources of Western Oregon to warrant the invest-
ment of large amounts of capital ; and that discoveries
luivc only just begun to be nuide.
As to the price of farming lands in the Wallamct valley,
thoy vary from three to fifteen dollars, including improve-
ments. Many excellent forms nuiy be had at from throe
tu five dollans per acre ; the owners selling out in order
•to remove with their children into towns, where they can
bo educated. These lands in a few years will be worth
fifty dollars per acie, and we trust it will not be long be-
fore the population will be sufficiently dense to insure
"•ood schools throughout the State. The Oregon Central
Railroad, now in course of construction, will do much to
bring out the resources of the interior, and the time is not
(li!-taut when lands in Western Oregon will bring a high
price. ■ ■ ■ >
Sheep-rmsing and Manufacture of Vvoolen Goods. Wm.
Lair Hill, in his prize essay, read before the Oregon State
Fair, for 18G2, says:— ). , ....
" if Orcnfon has a specialty, it is her pre-eminence as a wool-growing coun-
try. Until recently, very little attention lias been paid to the matter of sheep-
raii-ing; but it has now become one of the staple interests of the State. Sheep
tlirivc better here than in .'(ny other State. Disease .amongst them is e.xceed-
inifly rare. They increase here faster than in the east, and the wool is of ex-
cellent quality."
bi a similar essay, read before the Oregon State Fair
for 1863, by John Minto, Esq., the following passages oc-
cur:—
" For tlic health of sheep, dry upland pasture is necessary. Taking the whole
of Oregon into view, nine-tenths of the State may he pronounced of that char-
5.r2
WESTERN OUE(iON.
act('r. lM)r tim I'ucilinj; of slu-cj) tor wool-riiif^in^ purposes, short sweet mssei
iitid open \v(K)(lliin(l piisturi's an' (li-t'iiicil brst ; and tiill ihrei'-tinirths of tbt siir-
ikWM uf tliu State is cutu|M)rtL>d uf liilU uiid plains yi(;ldin}r HU(;h grasses; ami a
larf^t- portion of it is open wuoilland. For tin- f^rowlli of a loni^, even, stmn"
and lic.xililc staplf of wool, a mild, v.wu cliniati- (with proper tet'diri") is con-
sidered best, and that Orejjon possesses in a rt'niarkable dej^rec. In fact, the
t;lini!ile and natural "grasses of Orej^on seem to lie a natin'al combination of the
pceuliarities of Kngland and Spain, in tliost; partieulars, espoeially tiie t'liniate
" Over twenty years a)j;o, Mr. I'eale, a naturalist who af('oni])anied Commodore
Wilkes' expedition to this coast j^ave it as his ojjiniou tliat ' the country would
become I'amcjus for its jn-oductioa of fine wool,' for the reason that ' the evi-niic^
of the clinuile enables tho fur-bearing animals ti)und lierc to carry their fine
cov(!rin<; during the summer months, whereas under greater variations between
the seasons, the same animals usually shed their furs, or they become mixed
with luiir during sinunier ;' and lijr the further reason that the ' physical geoOTa-
phy and natural grasses of the country make it a natural sheep pasture,' W
" Experience goes far to show Mr, Teale's opinion correct. In a conversa-
tion between the writer and Mr. Henry I'erkins, Chief Wool Stapler in the
woolen factory at Salem, (a gentleman who lias liad a large and varied experi-
ence in assorting wool,) the latter said that he had never handled the v^ool from
any country, which as a whole, was equal to tliat of Oregon as a combing wool;
and that during a term of three years as wool stapler in a De Lainc factory in
Boston, Mass., he deemed that he did well when he could get from the bulk as-
sorted 30 per cent, of wool fit for combing and manufacturing into that fabric.
Of the wool he was then receiving — the crop of 1863, as it came in indis-
criminately— Mr. P. saitl he could get from .50 to 60 per cent, of good combing
wool. He further said if wools were properly assorted here and the combing
portion graded and baled and marked according to its quality, and shipped to
New Yorl, or Boston, it would soon draw the attention of De Laine manufac-
turers to ihis country as a source of supply for this most valuable kind of wool.
We have further practical proof of the suj)eriority of Oregon wool, in the fact
that San Francisco papers as late as July last, quoted Oregon wool as selling
three cents per pound above California wool sold on the same day.
" The fact of the superiority of Oregon wool is an encouraging circumstance
to those engaged, or about to engage in raising it. But they will never reap
tlie full benefit of it so long as they allow the business men of California to put
their crops into market : so long as this is the case, the fact will be used to
spread the fame of California, as a wool-producing country, and so long will
Oregon dwell in the shadow of Caliiornia, and feel the blighting influence,
This is the inevitable result, even without any effort on the part of California
merchants. It goes from their port in their shipping mart ; the buyer cares
no more but to know that he is receiving a good article for his money, and
it would be too much to expect the California mercliant to inform bis customer
that it was the product of another state. * * *
" The success of the woolen manufactory at Salem, started under more ad-
verse circumstances than, it is believed, will ever again exist on this coast,
NATCHAL WKALTII AND HKSOmc^KS.
rm
.liinv) pLiiiily tliiit a Do Liiiru' factory would bo cmincntl/ Biu'ccBsful Ihto wliure
I riicli jjoiiils arc worn tliroiiifho.it tlm yt-nr.*
"Ami tliiTf is no doiilil tliiit tluTc is iii:iiiy a fanner in the ^liiMIc and Wiist-
,ni Stiilcs wIki, worn down liy tlif dcldlitiitini; inlliii'ncfs ofiniiisnwitic climaU-is
wdiilil <H't a ni'w least' of lill! by clianj^in-? his hn-ation and beconiinjt a 8ljec.|>-
nii-ir iiinlcr llic dear skies and pure air of KaNtvrn ()rf<;on. • » » » •
• Tluiv are at present more prouiisinj; inilueeuienlM lor the ()re)i;on Ihnner to
iiirii iii^ attention to the raisin;^ of sheep and wool (where his lands are of a
-iiiiable kind,) than any other branch of farnun>;, for the reasons: 1st. That
in that Dciupation the farrniT can ^ct alonjj witli less hired 'lelp, which is al-
ways iiard to j,'ct of a reliable kind, and will continue to be, ni Ion;; as the dis-
i„v(iy of new <rol(l mines continues. 2d. Sheep eat nearer to the ground and
a pvMrv variety of [dants, and consecpiently re((nire less labor in jirovidini;
liiiiii liiod than any other domestic animal which yields anyihin;; like the re-
turn which they yield. 8d. Tliere are two [)roducts from sheej), i()r either of
iviiidi there is a ;;reater pros[)ective market than lor any other farm ))roduct
wiuaii raise. We have already <;lanced at tlu! condition of the market with re-
;;anl to wool. 'It is the only thing raised by the farmers of Orcj^on that con-
tains enough value in proportion to its weight to bear the expense of trans|)or-
taiiiiu to the Atlantic States. It is the only product that cannot be raised
{■l:ca|icr in the Atlantic States than here. It is the only product of the soil of
()ri'\'on (gold excepted) which we can send to the Eastern seaboard in ex-
(•i,an;;e tor the clothing, boots and shoes, machinery, iron, etc., etc., which we
imist buy there or elsewhere until we can build up manutiU'tures of our own.'
Ami manufactures we nuist have, unless we can contentedly remain utterly do-
pendent n[)on the manufacturing skill of other communities, subject to the in-
conveniences of interruption in time of war, and the always increasing cost of
transjjorlation, which, as the producers of the raw material and consumers of the
manufactured article, we must pay all the cost of, according to the amount of
our consumjttion. The market for good wool-bearing stock sheep is only to l>e
measured by the extent of the country yet unoccupied and fit tor grazing pur-
poses lying between the Pa<.'ific Ocean and the western base of the Ko<!ky
Mountains. Tlie market for mutton will be in accordance with the increase of
i; Nation; it can be i)roduced cheaper and will always sell higher than beef
mill \\.'' country is glutted with wool-bearing Hocks.
'■ ( )r(' . I m lies on the western edge of an immense extent of country — reach-
ii ' from Mexico to the British line; from Kansas to the Pacific Ocean — which,
with the exception of the belt between the Cascade Mountains and the ocean,
covered by parts of California, Oregon, and Washington 'J'erritory, is fitted for
pa itoral pursuits only. She has within her own borders a large j)ortion of tho
best of that natural pasture. Within that, and almost surrounded by it, she
has the largest compact body of good wheat land on the Pacific slojje ; which,
* Since the above was written a large factory .at Oregon City has commenced
manufactiu-ing de lalnes, and several kinds of cloths.
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)
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Photographic
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Corporation
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23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY. 14580
(716) 872-4503
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534
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snrro in<ltd and intermingled with never-faiiing water-power, makes the Willa-
mette Valley adapted by nature for the cheap support of a dense uianuiacturinir
population, in a three-fold greater degree than ever was either Old or Isew Kne.
land. She may, if her citizens will it, do her full share of first supplviuw all
the region drained by the waters of the ( olumbia River with stock sheep, and
then manufacture the wool raised from them and their increase. She mav be-
eonio to the north-west coast of America what England is now to the world
and what New England is to the United States in the power of their manufac-
tnrng commerce — following the settlements as they spread to the East and
Korth with her improved stjck and woolen fabrics."
Since Mr. Minto wrote his able essay on Sheep raising,
further facts have come to hght concerning the quaUty of
wool raised in the Eastern portion of Oregon. It lias
been well ascertained that the alkaline properties of the
grass on which the sheep feed in some portions of Eastern
Oregon, as well as the dust which settles upon them, has
a deteriorating effect upon the wool ; and that so far no
good fleeces have been obtained from those regions. Un-
doubtedly the very best sheep-pastures are to be found on
the Western side of the Cascade Mountains ; though many
valuable sheep-ranges may yet be discovered in the terri-
tory lying east of the Cascades and west of the Rocky
Mountains.
Timber and Lumber ing. — The State of Oregon, although
in reality a prairie State, has immense lumbering resources.
The principal timbers made into lumber are the firs and
cedars. These grow along the streams and on the moun-
tain ranges, affording fine facilities for milling, and for
exporting lumber. A large amount of lumbering is done
along the coast, at Coos Bay and Port Orford. All
along the Columbia River, from its mouth to the Dalles, a
distance of nearly two hundred miles, are dense forests of
the most magnificent sized trees, which make superior
lumber. „v' , ^ . rvf^^ -.r-,-
•^ ■• The exports from the Columbia River are about 4,000,-
000 feet annually, which find a market at San Francisco,
NATUilAL WEALTH AND RESOURCES.
535
and the Sandwich Islands, chiefly. The lumber trade of
Oro'njn is but in its infancy, being capable of almost
unlimited development.
Tarpeiituie^ Ta>% and Rosin. — Not only do the forests of
Oregon furnish exhaustless supplies of lumber, but they
ort'er also an immense source of wealth to the enterprising
manufacturer of turpentine, tar, and rosin. T. A. Wood
& Co., of Portland, who are engaged in manufacturing
these articles, give the following statement on this subject:
" Every day more fully demonstrates the fact that the supply of crude tur-
pontiiR' is inexhaustible, and the probabilities are that this supply will never
orrow less, from two facts :
1st. The forests best suited for and richest in balsam, arc those rough moun-
tain sidi's that the farmer can never reduce to tilla<i;e.
2il. The trees when robbed of their accumulated supi)ly will, like the " busy
lice," commence the work of replenishing their stores, or refilling the cavities
or '• sli.ikcs," to be annually or semi-annually robbed.
From the crude article we manufacture turpentine, pitch, bright varnish,
ros'ii, and axle-grease. In the limited time we have been in operation we have
consumed 21,000 gallons of crude balsam. From this our manufacture will ap-
proximate : turpentine, 5,000 gallons ; pitch, 400 barrels ; bright varnish, 70
barrels ; axle-grease, 25 cases.
AVe claim that the above articles are equal in quality to any manufactured in
the United States, and not without proof. The turpentine being made from
l)iilsam of fir, is as far superior to pine turpentine, for medical use, as fir balsam
is superior to pine pitch for medical purposes. The Portland physicians who
have tried it speak loudly in praise of its medical virtues.
Undi'r date of July 16 th, 1864, Mr. P. C. Dart, of San Francisco, says :
" Yo ir turpentine is now preferred over California make, and I obtained twenty-
five cents on tlie gallon, in advance of the California article. This fact is cer-
taiiilv encoura<'ing'."
The boat pitch is superior to any ever shipped to this coast. Capt. Kellogg
said he • used on the steamer Senator one barrel of States pitch and one of
Oreii;()n pitch, and would rather by one hundred dollars have used all Oregon
]iiteh. The calkers said the barrel of Oregon pitch was worth three of the
States pitch.'
Though our business has not been verj' extensive, we have opened a trade
with China, Sandwich Islands, Vancouver's Island, California, and arc now
niakino; a shipment to New York. It is our intention to enlarge our works, and
if we do, as now designed, we shall export, from July 1865 to July 1866, over
1,200 tons of manufactured articles. In fact, the crude turpentine is in such
abundance as to supply the world, if brought into use."
I t'
^' .1
4*!t
536
WESTERN OREGO^.
Fish and Fisheries. — Oregon furnishes some of the fin-
est fisheries in the world. From the roaring mountain
torrent, filled with the beautiful speckled trout, to the
largest rivers, and the ocean bays, all its waters are alive
with fish. In the latter are found cod, sturgeon, carp,
flounders, perch, herring, crabs, and oysters. Tillamook
and Yaquina Bays are the principal oyster beds.
All the rivers along the coast furnish salmon, the largest
being taken in the Columbia. They run up the rivers twice
during the year, commencing in May, and again in Octo-
ber. Notwithstanding their great numbers, but few are
taken for commercial purposes, although 100,000 barrels
might be secured annually, and sold for ten dollars per
barrel.
The following interesting extract is from Father P. J.
De Smet's book on the Oregon Missions :
" My presence among the Indians did not interrupt their fine and abundant
fisliery. An enormous basket was fastened to a projecting rock, and the fincjt
fish of the Columbia, as if by fascination, east themselves by dozens into the
snare. Seven or eight times during the day, these baskets were examined, and
each time were found to contain about two himdred and fifty salmon. The In-
dians, meanwhile, were seen on every projecting rock, piercing the fish with the
greatest dexterity.
They who do not know this territory may accuse me of exaggeration, when I
aflirm, that it would be as easy to count the pebbles so profusely scattered on
the shores, as to sum up the number of different kinds of fish which this west-
ern river furnishes for man's support ; as the buffalo of the north, and the deer
from north to east of the mountains furnish daily food for the inhabitants of
those regions, so do these fish supply the wants of the western tril)es. One
may ibrm some idea of the quantity of ■ aon and other fish, by remarking, that
at the time they ascend the rivers, all the tribes inhabiting the shores, choose
favorable locations, and not only do they find abundant nutriment during the
seasim, but, if diligent, they dry, and also pulverize and mix with oil a sufficient
quantity for the rest of the year. Incalculable shoals of salmon ascend to the'
river's source, and there die in shallow water. Groat quantiti(!s of trout and
carp follow them and regale themselves on the spawn deposited by the salmon
in holes and still water. Tlie fi)llowing year the young salmon descend to the
sea, and I have been told, (I cannot vouch lor the authenticity.) that they
never return until the fourth year. Six different species arc found in the
Columbia."
■p^
NATURAL WEALTH AND RESOURCES.
537
om Father P. J,
Game. The game of Oregon is principally Bear, Pan-
ther, Elk, Deer, Antelope, Squirrel, Geese, Swan, Ducks,
Pheasants, Grouse, and Quail. In the Wallanict Valley are
found some B')ar and Elk, and an abundance of black and
white-tailed Deer, and Geese and Ducks. -- ♦
In the Umpqua, Rogues and Claniet valleys are found
an abundance of Elk, Deer, Antelope, Geese, and Ducks.
The Deer of this country have been represented by some
as small and inferior. Such is not the fiict. The meat of
the Deer of Oregon is as tender and delicious as the Deer
of any other portion of the United States. The meat of
the black-tailed Deer of this country is much superior to
the meat of the white-tailed Deer of New York, Pennsyl-
vania, or the Western States.
Salt The salt of Oregon is obtained from springs, and
is of very superior quality. The springs are numerous in
the western part of Multnomah County, in the valley of
the Lower Wallamet, in Columbia County, adjoining, and
also in Douglas County, or the Umpqua Valley. Those in
Douglas County have been worked for some time, manu-
facturing about 1,000 pounds per day, which being con-
sumed in the neighborhood of the works, does not offer
itself in the Portland market ; neither would the distance
and difficulties of transportation admit of its seeking a
market in this place. There may be other springs in dif-
ferent counties worked in a small way. The salt works
lately erected in the Lower Wallamet Valley are situated
half way between Portland and St. Helen, at the foot of
the hills which skirt the river, and about half a mile dis-
tant from it. There are a number of springs in this local-
ity, and extending along near the base of this range of
hills from 12 to 20 miles. Only one spring is used at
present at the Wallamet Salt Works, and the present
works are only experimental. From this one spring, or
'538
WESTERN OREGON.
iTAH
I 1
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: t ...
ifciii,
well (for it has been decptned 27 feet) with all the sur-
face water in it, and with only one furnace, the ccmpany
have been making from 500 to 700 pounds of salt per day
that probably has no superior in any part of the world.
It crystalizes with a handsome, fine grain ; is bright, spark-
ling and as white as snow. It is entirely free from lime
or any deleterious substance, so that as a dairy salt, or for
curing of meats, fish, etc., it is of th*? very best quality.
So strong are its preservative qualities that dairymen say
they need use only two-thirds as much of it as of Liverpool
salt ; and the Portland butchers who have used it declare
it worth $10 more per ton than any salt in the market,—
that they use the brine over and over. Its quality, then,
is perfectly satisfactory, and the company are about erect-
ing new and extensive works for boiling, beside improv-
ing the saline properties of the water in the springs by
boring and piping, to exclude surface or any other fresh
water.
Coal. That there will be found to be a large supply
of coal in Oregon is beyond a doubt. The Coos Bay
coal is not unknown in San Francisco, though its quality
has never gained for it much of a reputation. Other de-
posits have been discovered on the coast further to the
north. A mine is now being worked on the Cowlitz river,
six or eight miles from its junction with the Colun .la,
which bids fair to supersede in merii any yet discovered
on the Pacific Coast. The structure and appearance of the
Oregon coal are peculiar, and at first liable to mislead the
judgment as to its quality. It has a glossy surface, is
rather light in weight, is perfectly clean to handle and
makes no soot in burning, all of which makes it a pleasant
fuel for grates and culinary purposes. It also lights very
readily, burns freely in the open air, and is free from sul-
phur. It shows, or appears to show, a woody structure,
NATURAL WEALTH AND RESOUUCES.
639
nr
o
yet is a hard coal, making- an intense boat and holdin
lire for many hours. When burnt it emits a clear wliite
flame, and leaves a white ash, without depositing strong
substances, or clinkers. It is not anthracite, nor bitumi-
nous, though nearly as hard as the first, and quite as influm
alile as the latter. Some miners call it cannel ; some say
it resembles Scotch splinth ; but altogether it is easier to
say wliat it is not than what it is. The fossils found in
connection with it have created some doubt as to its age,
many of thera seeming to belong to the tertiary period,
while others evidently are palm leaves.
Iron. Extensive beds of iron ore of a very pure qual-
ity are known to exist both on the Wallamet and on the
Columbia rivers. Those on the Wallamet are situated
about six miles south of Portland, and about eighteen above
the mouth of the river. Furnaces were erected two years
since by a Portland Company, who after sending some
iron to San Francisco pronounced equal to the Swedish
iron, have stopped manufacturing on account of some dif-
ficulty about the land on which the beds are situated, or
the water-power used in connection with it. It is to be
hoped that the entanglement, from whatever cause it arises,
will soon be removed. Very extensive beds of the same
kind of ore are found on the Columbia in the county of
that name, but so far have not been worked.
Lead. This metal is found in abundance in southern
Oregon, and in the Cascade Mountains, but only in con-
junction with other metals. No attempt has yet been
made to work it on account of the difficulty of separating
the ores, and its low price in the market. In the future,
however, it will be brought into notice along with other
mineral productions.
Copper. The copper mines of Oregon have never yet
been worked, yet for richness and favorable location they
surpass those on the lower coast. This metal is found on
li
M.'^
if
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I
540
WESTERN OREGON.
• I r' i > y
tlio Rof^uc, Umpqua, Coquille, and San tiam rivers. Those
on tlie Cociuillo are tlic most favorably situated for the
sliipinent of ores. Very rich mines are located in Joseph-
ine county, but await the era of railroads 'for their devel-
opment.
Gold and Silver. Gold is found in paying quantities on
the Umpqua, Rogue, and Illinois rivers, and their tributa-
ries ; on the sea-beach at the mouth of the Umpqua and
Coquille rivers, and at various places along the coast. But
the richest mines have been discovered in a district called
the Santiam from the river of that name, about seventy
miles east of Salem, in the center of the State. The ore
from these mines assays from $20 to $10,000 per ton.
Silver is also found in connection with it.
Oregon has never, until within the last five years, been
known as a mineral region. The character of the early
settlers predisposing them to agricultural pursuits caused
them to overlook the possible mineral wealth of the terri-
tory, even after the breaking out of the gold excitement
in California had made known to the world the existence
of rich mineral deposits on the Pacific coast. Those
who were taken with the gold fever went to California,
leaving unexplored the country nearer home. Gradually,
however, and little by little, it became known that there
were deposits of the precious metals in Oregon. Placer
diggings in Southern Oregon and along the coast began
-to be worked as early as 1851-2. Copper, iron, and coal
"were discovered, but with the exception of the coal mines
near the sea-coast, remained unworked.
Meanwhile gold continued to be discovered on every
side, in British Columbia, Washington Territory, and Ida-
ho, while Oregon, ever slow and deliberate amidst the
. hurry of events, made no effort to unveil the mysteries of
her bosom. In 1861, the mines of Idaho were discovered
NATURAL WEALTH AND RESOURCES.
541
at the moiitli of Oro Fino Creek by E. D. Pierce, an Indi-
an tmdor, at the head of a prospecting j)arty of ten men.
The excitement which followed the published accounts of
these mines, caused a rush of explorers in that region of
country now known as Idaho, which resulted in the dis-
covery of gold on the head-waters and tributaries of the
Clearwater.
Among these adventurers were numbers from the Wal-
ianiet valley, who in crossing the country east of the Cas-
ciule range, made the discovery of placer diggings on the
John Day, Powder, and Burnt rivers, in Eastern Oregon.
In 18G4, quartz leads were also discovered on Eagle creek
between Powder, and Burnt rivers; anii towns are already
built on each of these rivers. Thus was Oregon at last
revealed to the world as a mineral district, unsurpassed in
riehncss by very few districts in the world.
Building Materials. The mountains, in which are proba-
bly deposited, quarries of different kinds of building stone,
have been but little prospected with a view to the discov-
ery of these materials for substantial structures. Lumber
has been so abundant, cheap, and excellent in quality,
that it has been unnecessary to search out the treasures
contained in the bosom of the earth. There is no lack,
however, of stone suitable for masonry ; nor of clay to
make (excellent brick. Limestone deposits exist in the
Ilmpqua valley, in the hills back of the Clatsop Plains, in
the highlands back of the Tualatin Plains, and in other
parts of the Wallamet valley, and aiong the Columbia
river, especially near its mouth. Southern Oregon fur-
nishes numerous fine ledges of the best crystalline marble,
susceptible of the highest polish. Sandstone occurs in the
Coast range of mountains.
Baric for Tanning Leather. The forests and plains of
Oregon furnish an unlimited supply of oak, fir, and hem-
li
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III
>•(<*«;
512
WESTERN OREGON.
I I
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J,
lock bark, suitable for tanning purposes, while the exten-
sive pastures of the State can keep supplied, jnlimited
quantities of hides for manufacturing leather.
Grain Raisimj and Flour Making. The production of
wheat must over remain one of the greatest resources of
the State. Surrounded on every side by pasture lands,
Oregon has " the largest compact body of good wheat land
on the Pacific slope, which surrounded and intermingled
with never-failing water-power, makes the Wallamet val-
ley adapted by nature for the cheap manufacture of bread-
stuffs." •: ..
Wheat yields an average of thirty bushels to the acre,
and in cases of good cultivation nearly double that amount,
Oats, fifty to seventy-five bushels to the acre. Other
grains in proportion ; and all kinds of pulse equally well.
Flax and Hemp. Flax and hemp grow to a great size,
and produce a better fibre than in any other country.
Flax yields a large amount of seed, and an oil-mill would
do well in this State. There is no reason why linen
goods may not be profitably manufactured in Oregon.
Tobacco. Tobacco has been grown in Oregon, equal
to the best Virginia leaf Eastern Oregon is peculiarly
fitted for the cultivation of this plant ; and only experi-
enced hands to cure it are wanted, to make the Oregon
tobacco as celebrated as any in the United States.
Hops. The rainless summers of this country, together
with the absence of heavy dews, make it very favorable
for hop-raising. The crop is always certain, and may be
cured in the open air. Hops will become one of the reg-
ular exports of the State.
Fruits — Preserving. The great and steady fruit-crops
of Oregon, together with the abundance of berries grow-
ing wild in all parts of the State, offer superior induce-
ments for the establishment of preserving houses in the
KASTKK.V ()1U:(".()\.
513
while the exton-
plied, anlimited
ler.
e production of
est resources of
y pasture lands,
^ood wheat land
II d intermingled
3 Wallamet val-
facture of bread-
[lels to the acre,
ble that amount,
le acre. Other
Ise equally well.
• to a great size,
'■ other country.
m oil-mill would
ason why linen
1 in Oregon.
I Oregon, equal
on is peculiarly
-nd only experi-
ake the Oregon
States.
untry, together
very favorable
ain, and may be
one of the reg-
eady fruit-crops
f berries grow-
uperior induce-
houses in the
Wiilliimot valley. No such cstablislnnont exists, thoun-h
the miners away up in Idaho buy fruits preserved in tho
Atlantic States and (^Uifoniia.
Jlunet/. It is but about five years since bees were in-
troduced into Oregon. They thrive well, and produce a
Iari:'e amount of honey.
J'ofafovfi and Vcyt'tdblea. Potatoes are excellent in this
State, and yield abundantly; from throe hundred to four,
or oven six hundred bushels Ijeing grown on an acre of
LTonnd. The very best cabbages in the world are grown
ill Oregon, and in great numbers. The same maybe said
of Ciiulitiower. Melons and 8{juashes do well, growing to
a frroat size. Onions, like cabbage are very superior in
this soil and climate, being mild and sweet to a degree
unknown in the Eastern States. All other vegetables and
riKifs thrive well, and are of good quality,
III short, if an Oregon farmer does not enjoy the com-
forts of life, he has no one to blame except himself for the
lack of these things. ' ' " ■' '
Eastrhn Oregon was long regarded as a desert country,
nnl)lcs.sed by God and undesired by man. That was
wlicn the emigration to Oregon, coming overland all the
way from Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, and more southern
States, arrived at the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains,
with stock and provisions more than half exhausted, to
enter upon a country not only more rugged in appearance
than that already passed over, but presentin-j new fea-
tures and new characteristics, against which, from igno-
rance of the facts, they had failed to prepare themselves.
They found, west of the Rocky Mountains, a totally differ-
ent climate from any they had over experienced : delight-
ful enough in summer, on the mountains, but hot and dry
on the plains. Their road led them over bare rocks, re-
flecting strongly the heat of a cloudloss sky ; over sands
35
544
EA.^TEllN OKECION.
r
- )
buniiii^^ lu)t, and terribly hoavy for their teams; over
all<ali (loHortH, which they knew not how to uvuic, and
poHt boiinifj; s[)rin«,^s whose (li.sagreea])]e fumes lillcd the
air. They were too weary to bring Miueh ener<;y to tiio
overcoming of such (bflicullics as fell in tlicir way, and
' too discouraged with these! dilliculties to be fairly ihiuikfid
for the occasional oases which beautified tluiir (h'sert; so
that, when once they had set foot within the ever-vordiint
valleys west of the Cascade range, the tawny colored liills
and plains of bhdio and Eiustern Oregon — then all Ore|,njn
Territory — were remembered only as '' that God-fursakcn
country." A few emigrants and travelers were i>.telligcnt
enough to observe the evidences of extensive mineral de-
posits, but most of these never looked forward to seeinf;
this country occupied, and its minerals made the source
of wealth. And least of all did they foresee that much,
very much, of this "God-forsaken country" would prove
to be of wonderful fertility, so that, in the year 18G9,
many portions of it have " blossomed like the rose."
Such, at all events, is the history of Eastern Oregon.
There is, ijjidoubtedly, a large proportion of waste
lands in this part of the State. There are alkali plains
' and sage deserts, and in some parts, bare rocks coming to
the surface. The alkali plains may never be made fit for
• cultivation. The sage deserts are not quite so hopeless,
' as some portions of them have been found susceptible of
'- cultivation in California, and they may not prove to be so
'- worthless as has been believed; but the, rocks are afore-
gone conclusion. • ■•' ■•-" ■-'-.,^
In Eastern Oregon, Eastern Washington, and Idaho,
'-'■ the same general aspect of country prevails, except in
the most northern portions of the two latter Territories,
■ which are more heavily timb' ; i, and rather better
. watered. But south of parallc; i /, and between the Cas-
m
EASTERN OREGON.
545
oado Moiintiiins and the westernmost divide of the Tloeky
Mnuiitiiins, the conntry consists entirely of high rolling'
pliiiiis destitute of timber, and mountain ridges covered
wil'i timber; with the exception, however, of depressions
between the mountains and high tablelands, wlun-e lakes
and niiirshcs may sometime? ^9 found. The soil, ))()th of
tlu; plains and the mountains, i . excellent. lUit a small
portion of the plains will evor be cultivated, for \v;int of
tlic moans of irrigation, ^i o they will prove very valuable
fur stock-raising purposes, as they are covered with a
natural growth of excellent bnnch-grass. The mountain-
sides, when cleared, will })roduce fruit of the best ((uality;
but it is n])on the valley lands that the firmer Avill cliiefly
depcMd for his grain-fields. There is no reason evident
why grapes should not do well east of the Cascades in
Oregon. The soil and climate are quite similar to those
of California, where the grape flourishes best. Corn
fjrows well in the valleys, and other grains and vegetables
produce renmrkably Avell. It is worthy of menti(^n here,
that, at the late agricultural fair in Eastern Oregon, the
})roniium for some kinds of vegetables was awarded to an
Indian farmer of the Umatilla tribe. Mm ^ifm m -oti'Si
Eastern Oregon is crossed obliquely by the chain of the
Blue Mountains, which commence about at the eastern
boimdary of Washington Territory, where the Snake
River bends to the south, and take a course southwest
to near the centre of Eastern Oregon, where they bend
more to the west, until they connect with the range of
highlands along the Dep Chutes River, which runs be-
tween these hills and the Cascade range. Where the
Blue Mountains cross the State, they form, with the spurs
which they send out to the east and south, the divide,
or water-shed between the waters which flow into the
Columbia and those which flow into the numerous lakes
546
EASTERN OREGON.
S .
r
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of the Oregon portion of the Great Basin, or sink into
thirsty sands. •---..-,
The scenery, the geology, and topography of this por-
tion of Oregon (the Khimath Basin) are alike remarkable.
The irregular hills, covered with burnt rock and scoriae;
the fearful chasms, and sharp, needle-shaped rocks of its
basaltic mountains; its mysterious reservoirs of water;
its salt lakes and alkaline plains, seem to mark it for a
country uninhabitable by man, and the resort only of
myriads of wild-fowl, which here hatch their young in
safety, and the refuge of marauding Indians who retire
here after a successful raid into the settlements. Yet it
will not be left to these, for the explorer and surveyor are
already traversing it everywhere, and roads are being
opened in various directions, connecting with the mines
of Idaho, and with the towns and mines near the Colum-
bia River. Nor will it be found unfit for settlement. In
many parts are very desirable places for farms or stock-
raising ; while the excellence of the routes which lead
across the southern portion of Oregon, for the use of the
emigration and traders to the mines, over those which
cross near the Columbia River, will make every available
section of land desirable for settlement.
The Great Basin consists of an elevated plateau, raised
five thousand feet above the level of the ocean, and vary-
ing in surface between low hills, arid plains, marshes, salt
and fresh lakes, and occasional fertile valleys. It is
bounded by the Cascade Mountains on the west, whose
foot-hills, covered with a beautiful growth of pine, extend
• away nearly to the eastern border of Klamath Lake ; on
the north by the divide of the Blue Mountains; and on
the -east by another low range of mountains. To the
south it extends into California, Nevada, and Utah.
"* The following extracts from the report of Col. C. S,
THE KLAMATH BASIN.
547
Drew, 1st Oregon Cavalry, who made a reconnoisance
tlirough Southern Oregon to Fort Boise, in the summer
of 18()4, will furnis^^ an idea of the cultivable country
between Fort Klamath and Fort Boise : .
AVillianison's River takes its rise in Klamath marsh, — or, as the Indians
claiiii. in Klamath Lake proper, — and riuinin<^ in a southerly course about
tliirty miles emjjties into the east side of Bi<,' Klamath Lake, sixteen miles
south of Fort Klamath. It is a considerable river — at the ford probably one
hundred yards wide. It is somewhat alkaline, and rendered more unpalatable
from havinir its source in swamps and tule marshes. The crossing is over a
lidije of volcanic sandstone extending entirely across the river and into the
banks on either side. The greatest depth of water is about three feet, and
this only for about ten yards. From this ledge the water falls about two feet
into a deep eddy below.
The soil immediately along the river, is a dark, sandy loam, but changes to
a lifiht granite, or volcanic ash, as we approach the uplands and mountains on
litlu-r side.
The country between Fort Klamath and the ford of Williamson's Kiver is
covered with a fine forest of yellow and sugar pine, with now and then a wliite
or red fir, and occasionally a good sized cedar, cotton-wood, or rather aspen, is
fri'i[Uont around the glades and along the smaller streams. Tliere are also
small forests and thickets of a species ot pine having as yet no popular name,
and seeuiin'ly peculiar to the Cascade Mountains. Fort Klamath is built
ill a beautiful grove of them, and they cover the sinnmit of the Cascade Moun-
tains along the northern base of Mount M'Laughlin, where the road crosses
bi'tween Fort Klamath and Jacksonville.
**********
S])rague's River Valley is about forty miles long, and from two to fifteen
miles wide. Its general direction is from southeast to northwest. The banks
of the river, and of the numerous streams putting into it on either side, are
fringed with willows and cotton-wood, and the entire valley is skirted with a
continuous forest of yellow pine, extending back to tlie summit of the moun-
tains by which it is bounded. It possesses all the natural requisites for a good
stork range, its low lands being covered with a fair growtli of marsh grasses,
wliile its uplands aiTord a bountiful supply of the more nutritious bunch-grass,
with an occasional spot of wild timothy.
Till- soil here is a dark, sandy loam, growing lighter and somewhat gravelly
towards the mountains. Outcroppings of lava and other volcanic products are
ginei'al, but there iire many tracts of land that oiler eligible farm sites, and
could he easily cultivated.
Tlie climate is similar to that of Fort Klamath, but the soil is quick and veg-
etation matures early.
Wild flax grows here so abundantly that in many places it presents the ap-
I
548
EASTERN OREGON.
I I
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1
i
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pearance of tolerably fair cultivation, and proclucos a fine stron"; fihrc. The
Btalk si'cins to sprinjj; from its root and contituics to grow until t-hockiul by the
frosts of autumn. In this way it seems probable that the old root retains sub-
stance onoujrh durin<r the winter to send out new shoots in the spring. » * »
"Passing out of l^^prague's river valley in a southeasterly direetion, we crossed
the (ioose Lake Mountains through a wide and smooth gap, and by an easy
giade, and entered a small fine valley situated to the westward of the northern
extremity oi" the valley around the upper portion of Goose Lake, but having an
outlet into it sjme distance down its western border.
" This little valley is .about fitieen miles long, having a general direction from
north to south, and has an extreme width of about eight miles. It has a south-
ern exposure and a i'ertile soil. Its surroundings on the north, east, and west
are timber-covered mountains, while a low range of grass-covered hills bound it
on the southward, separating it from the basin of Goose Lake. It is well wa-
tered by several mountain streams, and by springs, fringed with willow, and in
some places with the cotton-wood, and is covered with a luxuriant growth of
grass. Its soil excels that of Sprague's ri\er valley in its general adaptation to
agricultural purposes. * » * *
" From a point on the east side of the little valley into which wc had entered,
and about twelve miles ti'om its head, we diverged to the eastward, and passing
over some low grassy hills and along the bank of a small mountain stream run-
ning in a southeasterly direction, we descended into Goose Lake basin by a very
easy grade, through a renuirkably smooth depression in its western rim.
*' From this pass to the head of Goose Lake, the first four miles was across a
sage desert that extends southward down the western border of the lake as far
as the eye can see.
" From tliis desert to the head of Goose Lake the surface of the country is
undulating, though from any considerable distance it has the appearance of be-
ing entirely level.
" The uplands arc generally covered with a luxiiriant growth of bun ch-grass,
but in many places the outcropping of lava renders them unfit for other than
grazing purposes. For these, however, they excel any portion of the country
yet j)assi'd over.
" The lowlands along the numerous little streams, all putting in from the
northward and converging towarils the head of the lake, but generally sinking
before they reiU'h it, are extremely fertile, and well adapted for cultivation. A
email jx)rti(ju of them, bordering imm:;diately on the lake, are somewhat alka-
line, but produce in many places an excellent growth of rye-grass, and other
TCgetatiou incident to a moderate alkali region.
" The valley is beautifully studded with large willows and some cotton-wood
that fringe its streams, and timber of good quality is abundant and easy of ac-
cess around its northern extremity and down along its eastern border.
" 'Ilie main portion of the valley, from its northern extremity down to the
lake, is about twenty miles in length, and from the Sierra Nevada Mountains
which bound it on the east to its western rim, the distance is nearly the same.
iJOOSE LAKE VALLEY.
549
^1"
III this area is contained the most viiluable agricultural land of the Goose Lake
jasin.
"Along till! eastern shore of the lake, however, there is considerable good
grazing comitrv, with an occasional tract of good fanning land, covered with
luxuriant wild clover in addition to all the wild grasses coiunion to the fertile,
poriions of tlu! country.
■•Numerous creeks and springs of good water put into the east side of the
hikr t'roni the Sieira Nevada Mountains.
'•Timber is also abundant along the base of the Sierras, vip their ravines, and
in mimy i)laces up their sides to the summit.
'• in the way of game, antelope and deer are quite plenty, and ' old bruin ' is
met occasionally. Sand-hill cranes, ducks of every variety, curlew, iind all
otliiT li)wls incident to California, ar> abundant throughout this region, and
along the streams iu the upper portion of the valley we saw numerous ' siorns '
of otter.
■• The lake is emphatically alkaline, but abounding with fish near its main in-
lets. Its surface is beautifully dotted everywhere with Hocks -f swan, resem-
blins, through mirage, so many fleets under sail.
'• Jlirage exists here to about the same extent that it does in and around San
Jose valley, Califijrnia. * * * *
'•Snrjjrise Valley is a long, narrow strip of land, stretched along the eastern
foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, and sloping down into alkaline lakes,
and the sand and sage desert that forms its eastern boundary. These foot-hills
and the lower portions of the spurs are generally covered with a bountiful
growth of bunch-grass, while between many of them, and sometimes extending
ont around them toward the dreary waste to the eastward, are small tracts of
excellent tillage land, covered with grass, rushes, and spots of clover and wild
pea-vine. It is well watered by springs and streams putting down from the
Sierras, but these usually sink on reaching the level of the lakes, and the sage
fields into which they flow.
'• Timber pine is abundant along the Sierras, and of fair quality. Game of
all kinds common to Calitornia, seems to be plenty.
The Red Bluff Independent has the following of Sur-
prise Valley.
"Tlie prospects of the settlers are of the most flattering description. There
are about one hundred families now settled down as industrious farmers, besides
a large floating population from the Owyhee and Puebla. Tlie recent opening
of communication with Red Blnfl" as a place at which they can obtain supplies
has stimulated them to further enterprise, as they have been heretofore almost
shut out from the rest of the world; but now they are sending in theii teams
for their winter supplies and purchasing more advantageously in Red. Bluff
than at Susanville, and they say the road is about as near to Red Bluff as it is
tu Susanville. A party of fifteen teams are expected in here this week. ITwt
■■■•J! li
r I
550
EASTERN OllEGON.
nu -^
I ■■!
B'.iJwoll, which is estabashed at the north end of the valley, is nam»d after
Gen JdIiii Bidwdl, our repi-esciitativi- in C'on;:r('ss. and is loeated in Diie ol'the
finest natural loeations. T*<ear the new post are two sprin<;s of water, the one
hot and the other cold. 'Hie hospital is locaU-d between these two springs, and
so situateil that hot and eokl ballis eati be had at all hours. In I'act, the water
'hot and cold) will be conducted throughout the whole »;arrison. The health
of the valley is excellent, and settlers say they prefer it to the Sacramento val-
ley. The last year's crop of barley has been disposed cf to the .^oldiers at 3('.
per pound. Already parties have been talking of machinery for a grist mill to
be put up next spring. / ^ '
'* Warner's Valley is similar to .Surprise Valley in point of location, form, and
general character. Its dii-ection is from south to north. The Sierras form it-;
western boundary for a distance of about fifteen miles from its souihcrn ex-
tremity, thence receding to the westward, and leaving a volcanic table to ton-
tinne Us border northward.
"Springs and streams arc fonnd at convenient distances along the base of the
Sierras, and two or more streams find (heir way from the same source, throuoh
deep cha?ms in the table that continues its western rim."
Such are some of the oases in the most desert part of
Eastern Oref,^on. The explorations ah'eady made have
demonstrated the fact that there is much mineral in the
mountains in this portion of Oregon, a circumstance which
must lead to its further exploration by experienced mi-
ners. A military road is being built from a point in the
neighborhood of Diamond Peak to a point in the Owyhee
country, which w^ill probably become the popular emigrant
road from the east into the Walhimet valley. The Red
Bluff route to Idaho City crosses this country, Cuicring it
at Goose Lake Valley. Also a road from Yrcka, Califor-
nia, to Canyon City on the John Day River, comes in
between the Klamath Lakes, and strikes across the conn-
try in a general direction northeast to the head- waters of
the John Day. Other projected routes will soon be
opened, leading from points on the Columbia River to the
Owyhee mines, .rntiiw
The northern portion of Eastern Oregon which is drained
by the Des Chutes, John Day, Umatilla, and Grande
Ronde Rivers ; and the extreme eastern portion wliich is
n
KIVER^ 0? EASTERN OREGON.
551
(Iraiiu'd by the Powder, Burnt, and Malliour Rivers, eon-
wist entirely of rolling grassy plains, Avooded mountains,
iiud fertile valleys, the principal ones being tiiose on the
rivers already mentioned. These valleys constitute the
only in]ial)ited portions at the present time, but the plains
arc certainly destined to be taken up by stock-raisers.
Tiie Des Chutes is a rapid and rocky stream which will
never probably be made navigable, rising in the Cascade
Mountains near the borders of the Great Basin, and flow-
ing almost directly north into the Columbia. The valley
of the Dos Chutes has some considerable settlement, but
is yet chiefly unoccupied, though capable of supporting a
large population. The settlers for the most part are stock-
raisers ; but the demand for farm products in the neigh-
lioring mines is stimulating agricultural improvements.
The Des Chutes river abounds with salmon, and has numer-
ous tributaries whose banks are thinly wooded. The
Des Chutes, and nearly all the rivers of Eastern Oregon,
have high and steep banks which make the crossing diffi-
cult except at certain points. j ;..>.a;:ir-
The John Day River, like the Des Chutes, is unnaviga-
blc, being one of those swift rivers, full of rocks and rap-
ids, Avhich the salmon love to inhabit. It waters a large
valley running in nearly the same direction as the Des
Chutes, and only about thirty miles distant to the east.
It has only been settled since the gold discoveries in 1802.
It is very fertile, and has a good market in its mines.
Owing to the mildness of the climate in this region, min-
ing operations can be carried on through the greater por-
tion of the year — the want of water being the only hin-
drance to mining at any season.
The Umatilla River is a small stream emptying into
the Columbia, whose head-waters and southern tributaries
flow through a delightful country, fit either for cultivation
Vi
552
■y^ EASTERN OREGON.
.'if'":.j'j
1 1
1
I
or grazing. It waters in part the famous pastures of the
Nez Perce and Cayuse Indians, where formerly the chiefs
sometimes had fifteen hundred or two thousand head of
horses in one band,
Grande Ronde River rises in the eastern spurs of the
Blue Mountains, and has its course a little north of east
until it falls into the Snake river. Its valley is of a heau-
tiful round shape, and about twenty -five miles in diameter,
having the river running ahnost directly through the cen-
ter. It is enclosed between mountain ridges which send
down numerous streams of limpid water, keeping the val-
ley ever verdant. These streams are fringed with trees
which mark their meanderings, and add a grace and pic-
turesqueness to the landscape, which has gladdened the
eyes of thousands of overland emigrants, scorched with
travel over sun-burnt plains. In Grande Ronde valley
the land is probably all claimed, owing to its nearness to
the mines. Considerable grain is raised in this valley, and
made into flour in its own mills. The climate of the
Grande Ronde is agreeable, though sometimes subject to
deep snows in winter. ii".'<>r'^ imow una
Powder River is a smaP river, not navigable, but
affording good water-power. Its valley contains about
200,000 acres of farming land, of which 10,000 acres are
under cultivation. The climate is rather warmer and
drier than that of Grande Ronde, and the valley is rapidly
being settled up. Rich mines both of gold and copper
have been discovered, and the gold mines are being ex-
tensively worked.
South of Powder River valley the country is rough and
Ijroken, not suited to agriculture, but very well adapted
to grazing. Burnt river, and Malheur river, flow through
this mountain country into the river Snake. Gold has
been found in paying quantities on both these rivers, and
FUTURE WEALTH AND RESOURCES.
553
lores which send
will iloubtloss be found on the tribuhiries of the Owyhee
ill the less explored region of sontlieastern Oregon.
The mountains of Eastern Oregon are generally well
wooded Avith forests of fir and birch, spruce and cedar,
and some groves of pine. Cotton-wood and willow fringe
the smaller streams, and the forests generally extend from
the mountains down the foot-hills nearly to the valleys,
but never grow along the main rivers. .-i- .: .: . • : Mf?
The climate of this part of the State of Oregon differs
entirely from that of the western portion. It is decidedly
a di'v climate ; rather warm in summer, and also somewhat
blonk in winter. The snow never falls to any depth on
the plains, but does occasionally fall heavily in the valleys.
The winters, however, are short, and farmers commence '
putting in seed in March.
From what has been said of the resources of Eastern ■
Oregon, it will be seen that a great portion of the'
wealth and importance of the State is in the future to be
derived from that portion lying east of the Cascade range,
and until recently considered of but little value. As a *
beefraising and wool-growing country it will become of
very great value, as auxiliary to its mines, which are rap-
idly becoming known, and already rival those of Idaho
and Montana. Although this portion of the State will
never, perhaps, become the seat of so dense a population
as the western portion, it will be found to contain the
means of great wealth and commercial prosperity in its
stock-ranches, its fields of corn and sorghum, its fruit
orchards, vineyards, flax and wool, as well as in its mines
of gold, silver, copper, lead, cinnabar, and plumbago.
The whole State of Oregon, East and West, comprises
an area of 102,600 square miles. Its population cannot
exceed 110,000.
554
WASimJGXON TERlllTOBY.
•IMT
I
, •' ' ■ Offc 'jd7iH -Ml
V'
CHAPTER XL VI. >j.:.
I *^. ■
i
i
K- ■
i ■ ^^ 1
;
Washington Territory is the northern half of the old
Oregon Territory, from the southern half of which its peo-
ple prayed to be separated in 1852. It has an area of
69,994 square miles ; being considerably less than Oregon
in extent. Its population is probably under 20,000.
In general terms Washington and Oregon resemble each
other both in the principal features of the country and in
climate. The chief difference consists in the more open
appearance of the country, it not being so entirely made
up of valleys as Oregon. The principal river is the Cowe-
litz, which is navigable a distance of only thirty miles;
its valley being narrow and rich, but of very limited ex-
tent. Like Oregon, it is divided by the Cascade range of
mountains, with the same relative differ*euces of soil and
climate on the east and west sides. Ut like Oregon, how-
ever, it is not so entirely separated from the sea by the
Coast range of mountains, which in Washington are very
much broken. The terminating point of the Coast Moun-
tains is Mount Olympus, which rises to a height of nine
thousand feet, standing forth as a glorious land-mark, vis-
ible from the sea ; and being closely in view either from
the Straits of Fuca, or Puget's Sound. ..,^;,_
■-' The richest agricultural portions of Washington are the
small valleys of its numerous streams, all of which are
well wooded with cotton-wood, maple, oak, ash, fir, cedar,
willow, and alder. The best grain fields of Washington
THE STRAIT OF SAN JUAN DE FUCA'.
555
are contained in a tract of land called the Cowclitz Prai-
rie, commencing about thirty miles north of the Colum-
bia River, and extending only a few miles toward the
Sound. Strictly speaking, Washington is not an agricul-
tural country ; its peculiar geography pointing it out
ratlur as a commercial than a farming State. A glance
at any good map will show the reader at once what is the
evident future of Washington Territory. Considering the
importance of the inland waters of this Territory, it Avill
be quite apropos of the subject of a Northern Railroad to
give a somewhat detailed description of them, taken from
the reports of both English and American explorers.
From the Pacific Railroad Report of the late Governor
I. I. Stevens, we take the following account of the Strait
of San- Juan De Fuca :
" The Strait of Juan De Fitca is the moat remarkable inlet of the -whole
I'iKilic coast of the Ameriean continent. It is bounded on the north by the
SDiitlicrn shore of Vancouver's Island and other smaller islands, and on the
south by the northern shore of tlie Mount Olympus peninsula. On the east it
is terminated to a certain extent by the western shore of "Whidby's Island. Its
{.'iiuTal direction is from east to west, and its lenfjth is about eighty nautical
mile?. The north and south shores of this Stra't are parallel as far as the
foutlioni end of Vancouver's Island, or to about the middle of its len2;th. Up
to this point the Strait has a general width of about eleven nautical miles.
Friim Race Rocks on the north and Freshwater Bay on the south, exactly the
iiiiildlp point of the whole extent, the Strait widens about twenty nautical miles,
ami iil'tcrwards presents more the aspect of a broad interior basin. It is no
ioiiyjer bounded by straight parallel shores, but branches into several broad pas-
sagos, bays, and channels. De Fuca Strait is very deep throuiihout its wliole
I'Xtcnt. In mid-channel its average depth is one hundred fathoms, and this
(I'pth is carried near the shore on both sides. It commences shoaling at a distance
of two miles from shore ; and in all the channels and branches of this Strait
tliu depth is equally groat. There are no imj)ediments to navigation through-
out the whole extent of this Strait, A deep sea bank is found at the entrance,
which is a favorite fishing bank for the Indians in this vicinity." " The south-
ern shores of De Fuca Strait are hills, in the immediate neighborhood of the
water, of a moderate height. Many low sandy cliffs fall perpendicularly on
bi'aehes of sand and stone. From the top of the clifTy eminences the land
takes a further gentle and moderate ascent, and is entirely covered with trees,
I r !
^I9f
' t" !' '
i. -i
6r)G
WAHIIINUTON TEIUUTOWV.
eliLi'dy dC till! i)iiin ijcnus, until tlu^ forest rcaclios a i.iii^oof liijrh rra^;:v moun-
tains, which siH'ni to rise from the. woodland country in a very al^runt m;m\vr
with tluiir Hinnniits covcrud with snow. 'J'lic northern shore is not (luituso
hi^h. It risers more f^railiially from the sea-side to the tops of the numntains of
A'aneonvcr's Islaml, which jiives to tlieni the appearance oi' a e(ini])act run'o
inon- nnit()rm and much h'ss eovi'red with snow than those on the soutliern
»<i<li\"* 'l"he eminenci'S with which the whole coast is lined have ncariv all
more, or loss, the sann; I'orm. They l()rm little peninsulas, which all ]X)int lo
the northwest. The northeastern sides of these peninsulas are lonij;, the north-
western short, and lii^twii-n the two nei;^hboring points usually lies a little Iwv,
tlie shores of which are low and sandy." ;•
Piissing over the careful accounts of the several ports
along the strait, intended for the benefit of sea-going read-
ers, we come to Port Discovery, at the entrance to Ad-
miralty Inlet, the northern portion of what is now called
in a general way The Sound, ,- ,.,
" This bay is about six miles long from north to south, and throu};hout two to
two and a lialf miles wide from cast to west. It is very deep, and has regular
Foundinf^s from thirty to thirty-five fathoms in mid-channel, to ten fathoms I'lnse
to shore. In some jjlaci'S it is almost t(M) deep for an anchoring piiice. Tlie
entrance of this port is formed by two low ))rojeciing jwints, Challam Point, to
the west, and Cape George to the east. Wooded cliffs of a middling lu'ight
bound th(! coast of the interior basin. It is protected from all winds, and
especially those of tlie north, by a little Island, called Protection Island, which
is two miles from its entrance and covers it. " Had this insular production of
nature," says Vancouver, " been designed by the most able engineers, it could
not have been placed more liapi)ily for the protection of the port."
-•,'•'--1.11-, '■ ) - . : >-i\ i^Ji :
From all this it is evident that this bay forms one of
the safest and best harbors in the world. It is also very
easy to fortify it against the attempts of an enemy.
" Admiralty Inlet is a most curious, irregular, and complicated compound
of inlets, channels, and bay ■, which lead to a narrow entrance from the snutli-
(Msti^rn corner of De Fuca Strait. The principal body of these waters, takin.;
the whole as one mcass, runs in a directly north and south line through more
than a whole degree of latitude ; but branches run out from it in all points of
the compass, and fill a region seventy nautical miles in length from north to
sotith and thirty miles in breadth from east to west. It may be compared to a
♦Vancouver.
:i'.
PUQET BOUND.
557
lire, iif wliith the body is rcco;Tniziiblo, which iscall«>fl A<lmiralty Tiilct pnipor,
ami till' siiii' iiraiK'licH have tlicir ])iirticiilar names. All tlic water eliaiinelH of
wliicli Admiralty Inlet is composetl are eomparatively narrow and liin<,'. They
liavc all. more or lesH l)()ld .sliores, anil are liiron;_'li(iiit dee|) and ahriipt, so ninch
.<ii tliMt ill many places a Hliip's sido will strike tlic sliorc belbre. the keel will
tmich the i^'round."*
' »
t ,.
.»..;,.
Even ill tlio interior and most hidden parts, doptlis of
fifty iiiid a hundred fathoms occur, as broad as l)e Fueti
Stniit itself. Vancouver found sixty fathoms lusar the
Viishoii Ishmd within a cable's length of the shore, and
ill Pcs-^ession Sound he found no soundings with a line of
one hundred and ten fathoms. Our mochn-n more exten-
sive soundings prove that this depth diminishes towards
the extremities of the inlets and basin.s. A high tide goes
lip fi'oiii l)e Fuca Strait into all these sounds. Even at
Nis([ually, the most southern part of the Admiralty Inlet,
the spring tides are eighteen feet high and the neaps
twelvo. ., .
• :, , ,-■,,; ^: . ■ , , ' ' ,.. ' '■ ' ■"- ..;■■' '
" Nothing can exceed the beauty and safety of these watcrH for navij;ation.
Nut a shoal exist.s witliin tlieni ; not a liidden roe', .» sudden overfalls of tlie
water or tlie air ; no strong (lows of the wind as in other narrow waters ; lor
iiistaiice, as in those of Magellan's Strait. And there are in this region so many
cxcillent and secure ports, that the commercial marine of the Pacific Ocean
may lie easily acconuuodated.
" 'I'he country into which these waters enter, and of wliieh t\wy fill the lowest
and central parts, may be .said to be a broad valley between the Mount Olyni-
])iis raii'^e to the west and the Cascade range to the east ; the higli, snow-cov-
ered peaks of both ranges may be seen fi-oin the wati!rs everywhere. Tliey
stand at a distance of about a hundred nautical miles from each other. The
hrii.id valley between the.in is, upon tlie whole, of a moderate elevation, and
])n'siiits a j)retty level depression. The higher spurs of the two mountain ran-
dies do not come down to the water's edge. The shore lands in the immedi-
ate neighliorhood of the channels may, therefore, be called only hills. They
are partly handsomely wooded, partly covered with luxuriant grass."
Puget Sound proper, is that portion of this large inland
body of water which extends south of Vashon Island, and
• Wilkes.
558
WASIIIN(iT()N TKliUlTOUV.
I -'4
fij
is ii conipontul of uiatiy narrow iiilot3 and sounds like Ad-
miralty Ink't, and dillbrH I'runi it in no particular except
in extent.
ILxxPs Canal is the -westernmost arm of this jfroat am]
compli{;atcd sound, the lart^^vst portion of wiiicli is CiiUcu
on tliu nia[)s Admiralty Iidot, but which the people of the
west coast liavo named without distinction of buuiidaries
Prr,F:T Sound.
When it is remembered that the many arms of the
Round are surrounded with the most valuable timber for
Khip-buildin<^, as well as with many beautiful shrubs and
smaller growths of trees, the beauty and the wealth of
this favored region may be faintly imagined. On a bright
suunucr's day, when the grand snow-peaks of the Cascade
range and of Mount Olympus stand distinctly out to view,
a scene is furnished which probably is not surpassed by
any in the world — certainly not by any on the American
Continent.
The advantages of Puget Sound, as the great Naval
Depot of the Pacific coast, cannot be over-rated. Here
is the ample room and the safe anchorage ; here the tim-
ber, the turpentine, tar, rosin, iron, copper, cordage, and
a climate favorable to constant labor in the open air. It
is impossible to doubt that the United States Government
will avail itself of this magnificent gift of nature, or to
believe that it will be blind to the necessity of Ptailroad
communication between it and the great commercid
marts of the cast. , . •
Lumbering Interests. We have already said that agri-
culture was not the great business of Washington Terri-
tory. Its greatest commercial interest at present is the
lumber trade. The largest mills of the Pacific coast are
located along the shores of Puget Sound. The plain
lying north of the Cowelitz Valley and east of the Sound
is mostly of a gravelly soil, dotted with scattering timber,
Ll'MHER — COAL — PI81I.
559
ind (livorsificd with hikes and streams. It is a countiy
very boiiutifiil to the eye, and with proper care may be
iniulc to yiekl good returns to husbandry, thougli much
loss vahiablc than other portions. But in the innnediate
vicinity of the Sound the timber is very dense, and grows
to a maguificent size, often reaching a height of 250 or
;](I0 feet. This belt of timber which encircles the Sound,
is from two to six miles in width, and consists chiefly of
fir and cedar — the most valuable timber on the coast.
Even the saw-dust of the cedar is valued, on account of
its odor, and is carried to San Francisco to be used in
saloons, market-places, etc.
The lumbering interests of Washington are controlled
by companies who own large tracts of timbered land along
the Sound, and at favorable points on the coast. Their
market is in San Francisco, the Sandwich Islands, Sitka,
and nearly all points on the Pacific coast south of Oregon.
Ooul. Another great source of wealth in Washington
Territory is the coal which it furnishes. Bellingham Bay
coal has long been used in San Francisco as the principal
fuel. Later, other mines have been discovered and open-
ed on the Cowelitz River, only four or six miles from its
junction with the Columbia. From tlicir extent and thick-
i.uss the Cowelitz beds are likely to rank high as an open-
ing for the investment of capital,
Fish. Of the rivers which empty into the Sound, are
the Skagit, Snohomish, Dwamish, Puyallup, Nisqually, and
Skokomish, with their tributaries. Many of these streams
are navigable at high tide by vessels drawing eight to ten
feet of water, making access o commercial waters easy
for the occupants of the laud along their course. There
are mud-flats of some extent at the mouths of the rivers,
and some patches ol salt-meadows. The river mouths
are chMice places for obtaining salmon, cod, and halibut ;
560
WASHINGTON TERRITORY.
salmon and herring are taken in the Sound, and trout in
the streams.
The Coast Counties. Of the counties along the coast
not much is known except that they have a rich soil, gen-
erally covered with a dense growth of timber. Many
small streams flow from the Coast Mountains into the Pa-
cific Ocean. ;
Gray's Harbor, in Chehalis county, together with tlio
fine valley of the Chehalis River, make this portion of the
coast a very desirable point for settlement.
Shoalwater Bay, in Pacific county, is an extensive body
of water, receiving the waters of numerous small streams,
among which the Willopah is the most considerable, hav-
ing a fine valley like the Chehalis. Both these bays have
extensive meadows and natural prairies contiguous, which
furnish excellent grass through the whole year. A fine
sand beach extends along the coast the whole distance
between these bays, making the pleasantest summer drives
imaginable. The entrance to Shoalwater Bay is five milv^s
wide, with two channels, each half a mile wide, leading
into it. The bay is filled with shoals, mud-fiats, and sand
pits, all of which are bare at low water ; while at high
water the tide sets up the rivers from eight to fifteen mile^
This bay is the great oyster-bed of the Pacific Coast, and
vessels are regularly engaged in the oyster trade between
this point and San Francisco. Around the bay the coun-
try is heavily covered with fir, spruce, hemlock, and arbor
vitae.
From Shoalwater Bay down to Cape Hancock, called
on the maps Cape Disappointment, there extends another
smooth beach for a distance of twenty miles. This beach
is about one hundred yards wide, very even and hard,
backed by a range of low, sandy, and wooded hills ; and
the whole constitutes a narrow peninsula extending to the
i, and trout iu
ffether witli tlio
WESTERN WASHINGTON.
561
mouth of the Columbia River. The extreme southern
point of this peninsula is Cape Hancock, where the Uni-
ted States has a fortification.
Resume. Westeyi Washington, so far as developed,
hos been proven to depend chiefly upon its lumber, fish,
coal and other minerals, for its commercial position. This
is not really on account of the sterility of the country, as
sa
MOUNT BANIER FROM PUGET SOUND.
has been shown, but is owing rather to the habits of the
[)cople, and because until lately there existed no market
for farm produce in the Territory. Now, however, it is
dilferent. Vancouver's Island right at their doors, depends
entirely upon Washington and Oregon for grain and veg-
vtabies, nor is the opportunity any longer lacking of send-
562
WASHINGTON TERRITORY.
t^-'^-
i
1;
;i
t
i
ing farm products to foreign markets, while the mines of
Eastern AYashington, like those of Oregon, make a con-
stant demand on the labor of the farmer.
Western Washington possesses at once the finest inland
harbors in the world, immense forests of valuable lumber,
mines of coal, and precious metals, extensive fisheries, a
healthful and mild climate, and is nearer by seven hundred
miles to the great East Indian marts of trade than any
other harbor of importance on the Pacific Coast.
The Puget Sound country must ultimately become a rich
and thickly inhabited region, and there will undoubtedly
grow up upon the Sound a great maritime city, where
ships from China and Japan will disembark their freight
upon the wharves of a Northern Pacific Railroad, to be
conveyed by the shortest land carriage to the great chain
of inland seas sti etching from Lake Superior, by the aid
of a ship-canal, to the Atlantic Ocean ; or scattered broad-
cast over the land along the hundreds of branch roads
that vein the eastern half of the continent in every direc-
tion.
Southern and Eastern Washington. That portion of
Washington Territory bordering upon the Columbia River
is not much settled. Farmers are, however, taking up the
land in the valleys of the rivers flowing into the Columbia
on the north side, quite rapidly of late. It is generally
observed that the land seems warmer on that side of the
river than on the Southern or Oregon side. The Cowelitz
y alley and the Lewis River and Lake River Valleys are
•now pretty well filled up, and prove to be excellent fruit,
grain, and dairy regions. Farther up the Columbia, and
just west of the foot-hills of the Cascades, is another well-
settled section of the Territory, where some handsome
prairies lie toward the Columbia River, bordered with rich
bottom lands.
THE WALLA-WALLA VALLEY.
563
East of the Cascades the country is unsettled for a long
distance, except here and there a farm near the Columbia.
Walla- Walla. Not until we reach the Walla- Walla Val-
ley, do we find any active life and signs of cultivation.
But here, in the southeasternmost corner of the Territory,
is a valley of great beauty and fertility, rapidly becoming
populated. The productions of this valley are wheat,
outs, barley, corn, fruits, and vegetables. Wheat yields
thirty to sixty bushels to the acre, oats seventy-five, pota-
toes four to six hundred bushels, and other garden stuff
ill proportion. As a grazing country it cannot be excelled,
for the quality of either the grass or water. Besides the
streams, wells yield excellent cold water at a depth of
from twelve to fifteen feet. There is no valley in the
whole upper country superior to this in advantages offered
for settlement. The climate is dry and healthful, with
short winters, and long, warm summers. The chief objec-
tion to the climate is the high wind which prevails in
siiinmer, in common with all high, open countries.
ir'r
v.- ' ■ '
• • • '• I"
/ ■
.'j:'
!'^''<'.
■ ■ />. ■» •- V
'- .r-i'^i
664
THE COLUMBIA lUVEli.
CHAPTER XLYII.
The Columbia River has no valley proper — that is, con-
tinuous levels of agricultural land, commonly known as
bottoms. From the junction of its two great forks to its
outlet, it flows between high bluffs, which rise into moun-
tains where the river breaks through the Cascade Range.
The mouth of the Columbia forms a large bay, twenty-
five miles long by six to eight wide, with numerous smaller
bays indenting it3 shores, and numerous points and prom-
ontories, the most conspicuous of which are Tongue
Point, four miles above Astoria, Point Adams, which bor-
ders on the ocean on the southern entrance, and Cape
Disappointment, (or Cape Hancock, as it is known to the
Government,) which borders on the northern entrance.
These two last named points are fortified. The following
mention of these fortifications is from the Astoria "Marine
Gazette : "
i I
" Fort Stevens is situated on Point Adams, on the Oregon side, in full view
of the ocean, and about one mile from the main channel of the river, and two
and a-half or three miles from the ocean. The guns of Fort Stevens will com-
mand the channel for several miles above and below the Fort. Next summer
a fort is to be built on Chinook Point immediately opposite Fort Stevens and
nearly due north of it. The river at this point is about three and a-half miles
wide, and is the narrowest point on the river within forty miles of the mouth.
Fort Hancock, on Cape Disappointment, is about seven miles northwest of
Fort Stevens, and about five and !^-half west by north of Chinook Point. Thus
the three forts will form a triangle, all commanding the entrance and the chan-
nels of the river. When all of these forts are completed, motmted and manned,
an enemy would meet with a warm reception, in case he would attempt to pay
us a hostile visit.
Tmr
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT, AND RESOURCES.
565
' •; ,;m.|:;i'
■■■■ ■■'i.f
. . ■.,.-,i-.j., y,^
— that is, con-
mly known as
:'eat forks to its
rise into moun-
ascade Range.
;e bay, twenty-
imerous smaller
)ints and prom-
h are Tongue
ims, which hor-
mce, and Cape
is known to the
jiern entrance.
The following
Lstoria "Marine
n;on side, in full view
of the river, ani two
ort Stevens will com-
Fort. Next summer
te Fort Stevens and
hree and a-lialf miles
f miles of the mouth.
1 miles northwest of
Jhinook Toint. Thus
itrance and the chan-
notmted and manned,
would attempt to pay
Fort Stevens is a nonagon, surrounded by a deep ditch thirty feet wide and
nineteen hundred feet in length. Beyond the ditch is an outer earth-work,
slopinf^ gently back to the surface of the ground, to protect the perpendicular
wall of the main work inside of the ditch. From the top of this wall, I'.ie earth-
works of the main fort slope up to the top where the guns are mounted. An
exterior view of the fort exhibits nothing but an inclined plane of earth-works,
of so gentle a slope that shot or shell can do it no damage. The magazine in
the centre of the fort is a substantial structure, covered deeply with earth, and
is bomb-proof. The shell-houses are also bomb-proof, and are interspersed
along the line of guns at convenient distances. Tlie entire earth-works, includ-
ing magazine and shcli-houses, except the nice gravel walks through the fort,
are covered with sod of sparkling green, and are beautifully pictured upon the
broad surface of the deep ditch, as it stretches around the fort, between its
parallel walls and numerous angles. Fort Stevens will mount forty-three guns,
and some of them arc the largest size. Tlie great fifteen-inch pivot gun guards
the prominent front facing the approach from sea. Here the grim monster
stands sentry, bidding defiance to any foe that dares invade. Tliis is said to
be the most substantial and efficient fort on the Pacific Coast, and for beauty
and symmetry we doubt if it is surpassed by any simila- work in the United
States." .... . , ' •.. .,
There are two channels or entrances to the Columbia,
over the celebrated "bar." 't'- ^^ '► ^ .; ..
The north channel conducts past the light-house on
Cape Disappointment, and follows the shore-line of Baker's
Bay until abreast of Pacific City, then bears off to the
right some distance, where it intersects the south channel ,
whi^h comes in by Point Adams. On the "middle sands"
between the north and south channels are lying the bones
of many a worthy vessel, and many a gallant sailor also,
whom deceitful winds lured on to the bar and suddenly
failing, left stranded by the ebbing tide, to go to destruc-
tion in the breakers. After the two channels unite in one,
tliat one bears to the south, coming right up to the town
of Astoria, where the Custom House is located, and where
the first cargo of goods delivered in Oregon was dis-
charged from the ship Tonquin, Capt. Thorn, from New
York, in the service of John Jacob Astor, in the year
1811. The genius of a great and successful merchant
5GG
THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
-■!'•
I i
touclied by a wonderful foresight upon the very spot
where a mighty People's commerce shall yet be disem-
barked. ,,
The dangers which once beset the entrance to the
Columbia have been overcome by steam. No steamer
was ever lost on the bar, and since a proper pilot system
has been established, but one or two vessels. The diffi-
culty should be effectually removed by the employment of
a steam-tug for sailing vessels.
The vessels which ply on the lower Columbia are the
tri-monthly line of ocean steamers from San Francisco, a
number of sailing vessels carrying lumber and produce to
the same port, a line of vessels 'o the Sandwich Islands,
a steamer connecting with the San Francisco line, taking
passengers and freight to Vancouver's Island, and a semi-
weekly steamer from Portland to Astoria. All vessels
entering the river stop at Astoria to receive their clear-
ances, and proceed to Portland, twelve miles up the mouth
of the Wallamet, and one hundred and ten from the ocean,
to discharge their cargoes. ; : ,
Proceeding up the Columbia, the traveler sees little of
interest except the great river itself Like the Hudson,
its banks are high and mountainous, but unlike that river,
they are not yet dotted with towns, villages, and hamlets,
at every accessible point. A few beginnings have been
made, where a flouring mill or saw-mill have been estab-
lished, and whce a vessel comes to load with lumber or
floirr. Oak Point, Cathlamet, and Monticello at the mouth
of the Cowelitz, are such examples. A fgw farms also have
been begun where the small valleys of tributary streams
come down to the Columbia, St. Helen is the first town
which seems to promise a considerable future growth, and
that chiefly on account of its fine and favorable situation.
It has, however, ample resources, though undeveloped,
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT, AND RESOURCES.
567
and lias been talked of as the terminus of the Oregon
Central Railroad, where it should cross the river toward
Puget Sound by way of the Cowelitz Valley. There is a
sufficient depth of water at St. Helen to accommodate the
largest vessels. .'.'.-" >
Just above this point the Lower Wallamet falls into the
Columbia, the two rivers embracing a fertile island, called
Sauvies, about twenty miles in length, where some of the
Hudson's Bay Company's people formerly had farms, some
of which are still held by them. The Lower Wallamet
has a depth of water sufficient for the ocean steamers
which sometimes pass this way in going up. At the up-
per mouth of the Wallamet are a number of small and
beautiful islands, and the scene upon a fine summer after-
noon is scarcely exceeded anywhere. The wide, blue,
majestic Columbia receives the tributary waters of the
clear and sparkling Wallamet, which join its nobler flood
by several devious outlets among the islands, as if coy and
teazing, and reluctant to betray itself all at once for the
important adjunct that it is to its grander neighbor with
whom it is silently being united, to be recognized no more
in its individual character. With a fine sunset sky re-
flected in these waters, the lovely embowered islands, dot-
tino: them over, with the distant bluffs of the Wallamet in
view on one hand, and the snowy peaks of Hood and St.
Helen standing out grandly on the other, it makes a view
scarcely to be surpassed in mingled beauty and sublimity:
and must charm the eyes of a sea-weary emigrant with a
double charm. It is a very pleasant sail from this point
up to Portland on the Wallamet.
The Columbia above the mouth of the Wallamet grows
more interesting, and sustains its interest for over a hun-
dred miles. Vancouver on the Washington side, is the old
post of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the present head-
568
THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
quarters of the Military Department of Oregon. The
situation of Vancouver is charming, as is also the view of
the river and the mountains at this place. The Oregon
side of the Columbia for some distance is low and well
wooded, representing by its depression the valley of the
Wallamet. Soon, however, the rise of the foot-hills com-
mences, then the very mountains themselves, until when
you have arrived at the Cascades, you are in their very
heart — you actually stand in a gap where mighty moun-
tains have been parted. Before arriving at this point, the
Lower Cascades village, you have been almost sated with
magnificence, but when you leave the steamer and find
yourself standing pigmy-like in the midst of the giant
cliffs and peaks, nothing is left you but silent awe and
delight. . ,
f
SHERIDAN S FI8UT BATTLE-GROUND, COLUMBIA RIVEU.
The "Cascades" are five miles of continuous rapids,
where the river forces itself over a rocky inclined hed^
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT, AND RESOURCES.
569
Oregon. The
lO the view of
The Oregon
low and well
! valley of the
foot-hills com-
es, until when
in their very
mighty moun-
this point, the
lost sated with
amer and find
of the giant
silent awe and
;IA UIVKU.
itinuous rapids,
y inclined bed,
through the heart of the Cascade Range. These rapids
are passed by six miles of railway portage ; and this ride
affords such opportunities of wonderful sight-seeing as oc-
cnr but seldom to the traveler. There is not the wild
force to these rapids that you see when the Niagara rushes
to its fall ; but the variety of play of the water is infinitely
greater, and the accessories far more magnificent. At the
upper end of the Cascades is another little village, in a
most picturesque situation. The river sets back here be-
fore rushing through the narrow gorge of the rapids, and
forms a beautiful bay with an island or two in it, and
beautifully wooded shores. Just above this bay is a
sunken forest comprising a belt of timber a mile or two
CASTLE ROCK.
long and half a mile wide, nearly submerged by the wa-
ters of the river. Beyond, the first thing that strikes the
eye is an immensely high and bald perpendicular cliflf of
570
THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
:
red rock, pointed as a pyramid at the top, which h)oks as
if freshly split oil' or parted from some other mass of rock,
whieh other mass is nowhere visible. Here comes in the
Indian tradition of a bridge that once existed across the
Columbia at this place, and which subsequently fell in,
])locking up the river bek)W and forming the rapids. It
looks probable enough to have suggested such an idea,
even to an Indian ; though the savage must attach a le-
gend of offended spirits to his more natural conclusion in
order to account for it.
The height and grandeur
of the mountains above
the Cascades is so great
and overpowering that
we feel no disposition to
attempt anything like a
description. It cannot
be described — it can on-
ly be felt ; and that news-
paper correspondent
who lately pronounced
the scenery of the Co-
lumbia River as insig-
nificant, takes rank in
our estimation beneath
contempt. The Hudson,
which so long has been
the pride of America, is
but the younger brother
of the majestic Colum-
bia. Place a hundi-ed
Dunderbergs side by
side, and you have some conception of these stupendous
bluffs. Treble the height of the Palisades, and you can
IIOKSE-TAIL FALL.
1
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT, AND RESOURCES.
671
«
form an itlca of these precipitous cliirs. Elevate the
dwarfed evergreens of the Hudson Highlands into firs and
pines like these, and then you may compare. We confess
that \\Q never enjoyed a journey more from the eomplete-
iioss of its impressions. There seemed nothing to desire —
wo only could gaze and dream ; for even these wild West-
ern waters are not without their historical and romantic
interest. Down this strong, rapid, high-walled river, fifty
years ago, floated the annual "brigade" of the Hudson's
Bay Company, bringing the year's accumulation of pel-
tries and the annual express from the Red River settle-
ments and Canada. Ten years earlier, Lewis and Clarke
had descended this great river in the service of the Gov-
$
VIEW ON THE COLUMBIA.
ernment ; and a few years later a part of the Astor Expe-
dition suffered all but death passing these rugged moun-
tains in the winter. Only twenty years ago the yearly
innnigration to Oregon, arriving at the Dalles destitute
iij
572
THE COLUMHIA RIVEU.
;: 1
and sick, late in the soason, were dependent on the Hud-
son's Bay Company's boats to bring them down to the
settlements. It was a terrible passage, and many, both
of boatmen and immigrants, lost their lives in the fearful
rapids. These were the incidents of pioneer life, now
passed away ; while we, tourists at leisure, dream and
gaze from the deck of a first class steamer, with all our
wants anticipated. Twenty years more will work mar-
vels, but it is with feelings of satisfaction that we re-
flect it is not possible to man to intermeddle with the
eternal majesty of these mountains. As God made them
so they shall remain to be the wonder of all.
"Here," says our captain, "is Wind Mountain. The In-
dian name answers to our word enclmnted: probably be-
cause the Indians found it so dillicult to pass here when
the wind was foul." On the opposite, or Oregon side,
just where the foot-hills commence, is a fine fruit-farm, in
a delightful situation, with Mt. Hood showing just back
of it. About thirteen miles above the Cascades is one of
the finest if not quite the finest point on the river.
While the steamer lies at a wood-yard taking on fuel, we
have ti'T'o to observe that the view is closed on either side
of us by wooded promontories jutting past each other,
and that the mountains seem to have attained their hicrh-
est on either side of the river, thus enclosing us in a little
sea, girt round with lofty clifis of rugged rocks, or forest-
crowned mountain ridges. Not far from here Hood river
comes in, cold from the snows of the mighty mountain;
and the very best view of that mountain is to be obtained.
So near does it seem that we can see the glistening of the
snow where its cliffs reflect the sun. Nearly opposite, the
White Salmon enters the Columbia, and between the cleft
heights you catch a passing glimpse of Mount Adams.
On leaving the summit line of the mountains at the
ITS 8CKXEUY, EXTKNT, AND UESOUIICES.
573
Cascades, the fir begins to disappear and soon the only
timber seen on the blull's, is i)inc aiul spruce. Even tliis
becomes scattering, and on coming near the Dulles, the
hills arc almost bare. The worn basaltic rock which has
MOUNT HOOD FROM THE UALLE8.
cropped out all along the river, from its mouth upward, is
here everywhere apparent, protruding from the hills and
walling in the river on both sides. But the hills are less
abrupt, and slope back in long swells and ridges, covered
with grass and dotted with scattering pines. » ■'
The Dalles (town) is a thriving business place, and a
point of importance on the Columbia; the possible ter-
minus of a branch Pacific Railroad. The scenery about
the Dalles has a most remarkable wildness and singularity.
You stand surrounded with evidences of the time when
the region of the Columbia river was one vast field of
molten rock and liquid fire. Once burnt by fire, long
since worn by the elements into horizontal terraces, or
574
THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
■ !
perpendicular columns, and needle-pointed peaks, scored
and seamed in every direction, cracked and toppling tc
their fail, the rocks which characterize the whole region
of-the Dalles make a very marked impression on the mind
and memory of the beholder. The word Dales signifies
troughs, and was first used by the French voyageurs to
describe the narrow passage through which the river is
forced at this place. It was easily corrupted into its pres-
ent agreeable pronunciation, and remains the cognomen,
not only of the trough of the Columbia, but has been cou-
ferred upon the town which lies just below the Dale.
The river narrows on approaching Dalles City, the be-
ginning of a second portage, of sixteen miles, and flows
through a sunken channel m solid rock for the whole of
that distance. The depth of the fissure which forms its
bed may be guessed at, when it is remembered that just
above these Dalles the river is over a mile wide, and that
in one part of its passage between Celilo and Dalles City,
it is not over one hundred and sixty feet ! The water has
a dark green color, and boils and bubbles like the witches'
cauldron in Macbeth. A glance at the map will suggest
what the tumult must be when a river, whose branches
stretch over so vast an extent of country, is compressed
within a channel fifty yards wide. Yet the writer has con-
versed with a lady who passed through this terrible strait
in a Hudson's Bay barge, when the oarsmen were thrown
from their seats by the violent dashing of the waves made
by the fearful eddies — j j.ssed in safety, too, though it was
a feat seldom attempted, thfe voyageurs preferring to make
the portage at thic place.
The geography of the country, and the rapid develop-
ment of the mining regions above, seem to point to Dalles
City as the second great commercial point on the Colum-
bia river. The town stands right on the rocky margin of
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT, AND RESOURCES.
575
the river, and extends back over the gradual rise by ter-
races of the outcropping trap-rock. There is a thin soil
of black mold over the hills, picturesque groves of pines,
and a coating of fine grass. Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams
•iro in full view, and in the cloudless atmosphere of East-
ern Oregon, nearly always visible. A late slight eruption
of Mt. Hood, lasting for several hours, must have been
distinctly visible from this point. Some historical interest
attaches to the spot where Dalles City stands, from the
fact of its having been one of the early Missions, and one
of the earliest military ^-osts in Oregon.
A railroad portage conveys the passenger sixteen miles
to Celilo ; the greatt." portion of the distance being close
along the river, in sight of its rapids and eddies. There
are enormous drifts of sand, which the high v/inds keep
constantly shifting, and which cause much annoyan^^e both
to the company who are obliged to employ men to clear
the track, and to travelers who wish to see the country.
These drifts extend the whole length of the road. In fa :;^
everywhere above the Dalles, sand and wind are thp ene-
mies of comfort during the summer months.
Celilo is a little new town, with no pretensions to bus-
ines3 except such as the 0. S. N. Company's transactions
there furnish. Its distinguishing feature is an immense
warehouse, nearly a thousand feet in length, built upon an
incline of forty feet, to accommodate boats in all stages
of water. This great warehouse is one of several that
will be built at points along the river, if the business of
the upper country increases as there is every reason to
believe it must increase. ., ; .;,>
The river at Celilo and for a long distance above is on^
continuous expanse of foaming rapids. It hurries over
broken torturing rocks, lashing itself into the wildest ex-
citement, which the incline of its bed renders more im-
37
Mil ;■
.i i
.\l II
i
576
THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
petuous. Such is the rapidity of its flow that the water
is apparently, and r j doubt actually, piled up higher in
the middle of the channel, so that it seems to slope ciff
on either side.
Just above Celilo comes in the Des Chutes Eiver, very
rapid and wid ^ at its mouth ; and a little further up on
the other side is the town of Columbus, which at present
is little more than a wood-yard. Tvvcnty miles above
Celilo, on the Oregon side again, j \\h \y River comes
by a narrow high-walled mouth whica g* arcely betrays its
locality. A few wood-yards and the Grande Ronde Land-
ing are the only improvements along the river, until ive
arrive at Umatilla, ninetv-six miles above the Dalles.
Along this whole distance not a single tree is visible, ex-
cept such willows and shrubs as grow on the borders of
sand-bars and islands. Umatilla, or Utilla, as the Indian
name is spelled, is a new and still very small town at the
mouth of the Umatilla river, and derives its business from
the fact of its being a starting point for the mines of Boise
and Owyhee. The banks of the Columbia h it «,re 1ot7
and smooth, and nothing is in sight fron; i „ ,k 'luer's
deck but extensive rolling plains, covered. vvn.! ju ■■•h-
grass. Back ten or twelve .liles from the river, ho,',v..er,
some timber is found for fuel, and Turther back in the
mountains is timber in abundance for lumbering purposes.
There is the same general aspect all along the Columbia
to its forks, and also for the wh^i'^ length of its southern
branch, the Snake or Lewis . , Walbi^a, situated a
few miles below the forks, is the last tow - Tany impor-
tance on the Columbia. It is beautifull}? '•■ :t/daGthe
mouth of the Walla-Walla river, nnd is a point of consid-
erable 'mportanc(^. where mii'iri'? outfits are procured, and
freight trains started out fo/ 'e mines. It is a sort of
port to Walla- Walla, thirty miLs further on the road to
1 I
J. I ,
y.;'Aw^:,
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT, AND RESOUKCES.
577
Idaho. Wallula is old Fort Walla- Walla, while Walla-
Wiilla City is near the old Presbyterian mission of Waii-
latpu, and the modern Fort Walla-Walla.
" White Bluffs is situated about forty miles above the mouth of Snake river.
From Wallula to White Bluffs the rivjr is smooth and deep, ofi'ering no ob-
?tni(tious whatever to navii;ation. From this last named point the river can-
not be navigated furtlier until we reach Colville. Between these two j)laces it
makes a long detour, so that, following its course, the distance irom one point
to the other is about 350 miles. The stream is so broken by rapids the whole
wav that boats cannot run upon it. The bars along the river have long been
worked, yielaing small pay ; but they are now almost abandoned by the whites,
who are looking for richer mines, and in their stead are come great nimibers
of Chinese ; some from Oregon, but the greater number from British Colum-
bia. It is believed that there are now above one thousand of these persons
working on the river between Priest's Rapids and Colville. They are said to
be making from two to five or six dollars per f'ay.
From White Bluffs to ColviUe by land, th' distance is one hundred and fifly
miles. The road is excellent, there being no mountains or lulls, and but one
considerable stream — the Spokane — on the way. White Bluffs is the nearest
point to Colville which steamboats can reach, and is nov a post of some im-
portance. It seems to be favorably situated to receive a large share of the
trade of the upper Columbia river.
Above Colville, for several hundred miles, the river flows through a succer-
sion of lakes, rendering navigation easy. A steamer is now running between
Colville and Boat Encampment. Rich mines are said to have been discovered,
near this latter place, which is about three hundred miles beyond Colville.
About fifty miles above Colville the Hudson's Bay Company have established
a new trading post which they call Fort Shej)herd, by means of which thej
expect to command Jie tride of that region. There has been much activity in
the search for gold throughout thi^ whole region, and its trade steadily in--
creases.
There hfvS also been strong effort to make a road over from the waters of Fra-
per river to the Cwiambia, but the attempt has resulted in nothing. Between
tliese two streams there is an exceedingly high chain of mountains over which
it will b*5 forever impossible to carry goods. Hence everything that is con-
sumed east of these high mountains must go by way of the Columbia."
On all the other northern branches of the Columbia,
the Kootenai, and head-waters of the Clark especially,
gold has been discovered in paying quantities, causing a
rush of miners to those districts, and the consequent ac-
companiment of trade. Already there is competition
'78
THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
[ "f's
^
between the merchants of the Missouri and those of the
Columbia as to the profits of trade in the Blackfoot coun-
try. Captain Mullan, in his "Miner's and Traveler's
Guide," has given so favorable an account of the climate
and agricultural resources of this northern region that
there is good reason to believe it must soon be settled up
by a permanent farming community. The numerous
Catholic Missions established through this region confirm
the account of its adaptability to settlement, while it is a
well established fact that the Hudson's Bay Company's
servants have had farms for twenty -five years in this lati-
tude, and have raised the same crops raised in our north-
western States. The yield of wheat was especially good,
averaging forty bushels to the acre.
. From these facts it will be seen that the Columbia does
not rise in a barren, desolate region of country ; and that
instead, the mighty river flows from first to last through
a country rich in mineral and agricultural wealth, only
waiting for development.
The Snake, or Southern branch of the Columbia, offers
no obstacle to continuous navigation by the Oregon Steam
Navigation Company's boats, which line of steamers
run regularly, except in low water, from Portland to
licwiston, Idaho, a distance of about four hundred miles.
Beyond this point navigation is interrupted for the next
one hundred ivnd forty miles, by falls and rapids. Beyond
this, however, it is believed there exists no obstacle to
navigation for another two hundred miles ; and the Ore-
gon Steam Navigation Company have already made roads
to, and built steamers on this portion of the Snake river,
with the intention of carrying passengers and freight on
this route as far as the crossing of the Boise and Owyhee
wagon-road. It is expected to bring the boats of the
Missouri and Columbia within five hundred miles of each
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT AND RESOURCES.
579
other. Under these circumstances there must be a lively
competition for the trade of the great interior mining ter-
ritories— a competition which will do much, with that of
California and the Colorado river projects, to open up and
develop the country, and to hasten on the advent in these
mountain regions of the iron horse and the great Pacilic
Railways.
Very much of the development of Eastern Oregon and
Idaho is owing to the avcU conducted enterprises of the
Oregon Steam Navigation Company ; and it is only proper
in speaking of the resources of the Columbia to make the
following extract from the letter of an Oregon gentleman
and pioneer :
" Some dozen or more years a<jo different steamboat projects commenced
upon the Columbia. Then there were no mines ibund, and the inducement
was to caiTy the freight oi' the United States Government to military posts and
Indian Agencies, in the interior; transport the overland emigrations, and have
a natural increase of travel with the expected growth of the upper country.
Gradually steamboats of primitive make and small dimensions were built on
the navigable stretches of the river to conntict with the portages, of which there
arc two — the first a the Ciiscades, seventy miles from Portland, of five miles;
and another, at the Dalles, forty-five miles above, of fifteen miles. The dis-
covery of gold far north, at Fraser river and Powderway, gave some of these
steamboat and railroad men a confidence that the mountains east were all gold-
bearing. On the strength of which rude tramways or railroads were made at
great expense around the Cascades on either side of the Columbia river, and
indebtedness and expense incurred that would inevitably have ruined the men
who undertook them, only that time justified their belief, and the result made
them rich, for which they have to thank no one but themselves. Some eight
or ten years ago, ah these steamboat interests were consolidated under the pres-
ent company. As the business increased, the improvements of the company
kept pace with it, and to-day elegant boats are running on each stretch of the
river, connected by twenty miles of excellent railroads, one of six miles at the
Cascades, and one of fourteen miles at the Dalles. The Oregon Steam Navi-
gation Company, whose original capital was some S300,%00 (or at least the
dill'erent steamboat lines which were consolidated were assessed at that figure,)
now own, by purchase, the railroE.d lines on each side of the Cascades, which
gives them an effective monopoly, and have property valued at not less than
$2,000,000. Tliey have made but few dividends, never more than twelve per
cent, per annum, but have constantly kept adding their earnings to their cap-
i
580
THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
■I
'■
ital in the way of improvements, until their enterprise has made the difficult
eliaunel of tlie Columbia one of the most varied and agreeable lines of travel
upon this continent, llicir wliarves, warehouses, railroads, and steamers are
maf^nificcnt proofs of generous enterprise, and their honorable pride is to ex-
tend and improve them constantly in the future.
Thirteen years iigo this spring I ascended tlie Columbia to the Dalles in row-
boats against the current. It took us seventeen days of hard labor to make
the up trip. Now it takes us ten to twelve hours to accomplish the same dis-
tance in comfort and sal'ety."
The scenery of the Snake River resembles that of the
main Columbia above the Dalles, except that it is upon a
smaller scale. Like the Upper Columbia, it is distinguish-
ed for its falls and rapids. The American Falls furnishes
one of the finest views of the wonderful forms of col-
umnar basalt to be found anywhere. The river here flows
between high picturesque bluffs of weather-worn trap
rock, and falls over a ledge of the same; the fall being
divided by a rocky island in the middle, around which the
water sweeps in wild haste and is dashed to foam as it de-
scends upon other rocks below, rising again in clouds of
spray from the bosom of the tortured river.
The Owyhee, the Boise, the Payette, the Salmon, and
the Clearwater, are all more or less important tributaries
of the southern branch of the Columbia ; flowing as they
do through the richest mineral districts, watering fertile
valleys, or affording water and water power to the miner.
High divides generally separate the several water-courses,
which mountains are covered with excellent timber. The
early emigrant to Oregon who traversed the weary road
from the Mississippi to the Lower Columbia, thought all
a desert that laid between the Rocky and Cascade ranges
of mountains^ The aspect of this intermediate territory
will henceforth rapidly be changed. No more weary
marches over alkali deserts, sage or sand plains; no more
toiling over the Blue and Cascade Mountains. No more
"■..".'.V '.Tirrr,'-'.'^'!-;
THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
681
starvation and misery on the last end of the journey.
]5oats will meet the emigration somewhere about the Big
Camas Prairie at all events before it enters upon the rouo-h-
est portion of the route, and thence the transit to the
\\'allamet Valley, or to any other point of settlement will
be made easy.
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582
MONTANA TERRITORY.
CHAPTER XLVIII. ..^
Gold was first discovered on the eastern side of the
Rocky Mountains, in the month of August, 1862, by a
party of miners who wintered on the head- waters of Jef-
ferson's Fork : since which time new discoveries have been
constantly made, and Montana seems in a fair way to grow
rapidly into a State. Towns are starting up in every part
of the Territory, whose growth will not be permanently
checked even by a failure of the mining interests of the
country.
All writers from Montana agree in pronouncing it to be
the most delightful mountain country they have ever
visited ; but as successful gold-hunters are not always to
be believed by those who have no interests in their favor-
ite region, we have thought best to ignore their opinions
entirely, and quote from authorities whose only business
in that country has been to explore it. In the Report of
Gov. Stevens, on the Pacific Railroad, we find the fol-
lowing:—
" If the voyageur traveling over this country, whatever route he taJces, be
asked what sort of a country it is, he will tell you, an excellent country for trav-
eling— wood, water, and grass everywhere. But the pine of the Spokane ex-
tends nearly to its mouth, and for some miles souH of the river. Tlie Spokane
ie. the name of the main stream to its junction w ith the Coeur d' Alcne river,
when its name is given to a smaller tributary coming from the north, the Coeiir
d' Alene being the main stream. One of the most beautiful features of the
Coeur d' Alene river and country is the Coeur d' Alcne lake, which is embo-
Bomed in the midst of gently sloping hills, covered with a dense forest growth ;
the irregularity of its formi and the changing aspect of the scenery about it,
makes it one of the most picturesque objects in the interior. Tlie Coeur d
MONTANA TERRITORY.
583
Alcnc river itself has tributaries flowing from near the main divide of the Hiiier
Hoot, the most considerable of which is the St. Joseph's river, which lias a gen-
eral parallel direction with the Coeur d' Alene, and is about twenty miles south
oi' it.
•• The whole ^ alley of the Coeur d' Alenc and Spokane is well .adapted to
si^ttU'nient, abounding in timber for building and for fires, exceedingly well wa-
tt'ii'd, and the greater portion of the land arable. — North of the Great IMain, that
is Iroiu the Spokane to the 4f)tli parallel cast of the main Columbia, the country
ibr the most part is densely wo(Kled, although many valleys and oj)en places oc-
cur, some of them now occupied by settlers, and all presenting advantages ibr
settlement. Down Clarke's Fork itself there are open patches of considerable
size, and so on the k<joten.!i River. North of the Spokane is a large prairie,
known as the Coeur d' Alene prairie, through which the trail passes from Walla-
Walla to Lake Pend d' Oreille. This prairie contains some six hundred square
Illllt'S ^ ^ w ^ w W
" It is the country, there.forc, between these two great backbones of the Rocky
Jlountains which I now wish to describe, and especially will I first call atten-
tion to that beautiful region whose streams, flowing from the great semicircle of
the Rocky Moiuitains before referred to, pass through a delightful grazing and
aiable country, and find their confluence in the Bitter Boot River, opposite Hell-
Gate.
" From Big Hole Prairie, on the south, flows the Bitter Root River, which has
also a branch from the southwest, up which a trail is nmch used by Indians and
voyageurs passing to the Nez Perce country and Walla-Walla. The Bitter
Root valley, above Hell-Gate river, is about eighty miles long, and from three to
ten in width, having a direction north and south from the soiu'ces of the Bitter
Root river to its junction with the Hell-Gate. Besides the outlet above men-
tioned,* towards the Kooskooskia, which is the most diflleult, it has an excellent
wagon-n)ad communication at its head by the Big Hole Pass to Jefferson's Fork,
Fort Hall, and other points southward, as well as by the Hell-Gate routes to the
eastward. From its lower end, at the junction of the Hell-Gate, it is believed
the Bitter Root river is, or can be made, navigable for small steamers for long
distances, at least, thus affording an easy outlet to its products in the natural
direction. Hell-Gate (Pass) is the debauche of all the considerable streams
which flow into the Bitter Root, eighty-five miles below its source at the Big
Hole divide. Tlio distance from Hell-Gate to its junction with the Bitter Root
is fifteen miles. It must not be understood from the term Hell-Gate that here
is a narrow passage with perpendicular bluffs ; on the contrary it is a wide,
o])en, and easy pass, in no case being less than half a mile wide, and the banks
not subject to overflow. At Hell-Gate is the junction of two streams, the one
being the Hell-Gate river, and the other the Big Blackftrot river. Tlie Hell-
Gate itself drains the semicircle of the Rocky Mountains from parallel 45 ' 45'
to parallel 46 ' 30', a distance on the di^ ,de of eighty miles. The upper waters
* Omitted here.
584
MONTANA TEUUITORY.
of this river rnnnoct with Wisdom Rivor, over a low and easy divide, across
whicli Lii'ut. Aliilliin witli liis party moved on Dec. 31, 18.53.
"Moviii|j; down tliis valli'y (itleen miles, we eomo to a most beautiful prairie
known as the J)eer Lod;;e, a great resort for <^ame, and a favorite restinj^ phico
for Indians — mild tlirotiifh tlie wintt^r, and aH'ordinijf incxliausUble ;^rass tho
year nmnd. Thi'i-e is a remarliable euriosity in lliis valley — the Koilinj; Snrini's
whieli have been described by Lieut. Miillan. This Deer Lodge Prairie is wa-
tiTed l)y many streams, tliose cominif frcm tlie cast, liaving tht'ir sources also in
the Rocky .^h)untain divide, and tliese cominif from the west in tlie low, rollin"
and open country intervening between the Ilell-Gate and IJitter Root riverr.
"The Little Rlackfoot, whicli has been referred to, is one of the most impor-
tant streams on the line of communication through this whole mountain region.
It has an open, well-grassed, and araV)le valley, with sweet cotton-wood on the
streams, and pine generally on the slopes of tho hills ; but tho forests are quite
open, and both on its northern and southern slopes there is much prairie coun-
try. 'J"he IJttle IMackfoot river furnishes two outk;ts to the country to the east
It was the southern one of these passes, connecting with the southern tributary
of the Prickly Pear creek, tliat Mr. Tinkham passed over in IH.'JS, and deter-
mined a ])r()file of the route. It was also passed over by Lieut. Mullan on his
trip from the Muscle Shell, in 1853, but the northern pass was first discovered
by Lieut. Mullan when he passed over it with a wagon from Fort Benton, in
IMarch, 18.04. There is anotlier tributary of the Little Rlackfbot flowing into
it below the point vhere Lieut. Mullan struck it with bis wagon, which may
furnish a good pass to the plains of the Missouri. Its advantages and characjter
were described to him by the Indians.
"Passing down the IIell-Gat« river, from the mouth of the Little Bl.ackfoot,
we come to several tributaries flowing from the south. Flint Creek, one of them,
is a large stream, uj) the valley of which there is a short route to the Bitter
Root valley, in a direction west-southwest from its junction with Ilell-Gate.
On tli(!se rivers are prairies as large as the Deer Lodge prairie, and the whole
country between the Deer Lodge Prairie due west to the Bitter Root valley
consists much more of prairie than of forest land.
"The Ilell-Gate river is thus seen to be one hundred and thirty miles long,
flowing for sixty miles through the broad and fertile Deer Lodge Prairie, which
• is estimated to contain eight hundred squiire miles of arable land. Tlicn taking
a direction more transverse to the mormtain, opens its valley, continues from
two to fiv(! miles wide, until its junction with the Big Elackfoot, at Ilell-Gate,
after which it widens out to unite with the valley of the Bitter Root. On this
part of it there are least one hundred and fifty sqtiarc miles of fine arable land,
and as much grazing prairie on the adjoining hills. #**♦♦•
Passing from the Hell-Gate to the Flathead River, we cross over this spur
by a low divide, going through the Coriacan defile, and coming upon the waters
of the .Tocko river. The height of this divide above the Hell-Gate is 560 feet,
and above the Flathead river, at the mouth of the Jocko, is 650 feet. From
this divide a view of surpassing beauty, looking northward, is presented to the
MONTANA TEUUITORY.
585
easy divido, across
Iwliiilili r. IIo sooM l)efor(( him an oxtraonliiiiirily wcll-jjriissod, woll-walorud
;uiil inviting; country. On the East aro the divides, clothed with pine, separat-
iiii; the Jocko and its tributaries from the streams runninjj; into the IJi"' hlaclc-
tljut, and into Flathead Laiic. To the Nortli the Fhitliead Laice, twenty-fivo
iiiik's hu'^ and six miles wide, is sjjrcad ojjcn l.>eturi! you with extensive ])rairie8
iH'yond, and on the West, sloj)ini^ hacic ti-oni the banks of the Flathead Kiver
a uiin;j;led prairie and forest country is seen. Here in a (compact body, is ono
of the most jjromising countries in tliis whole region, having at least 2 000
wiiiaiv miles of arable land.
Below tlie lake the Flathead River flows, following its windings some fifty
miles, to its junction with tlie Bitter Root, where the united streams assunm the
name of Clarke's Fork. In this distance it is 100 t« 200 yards wide, and so
due]) as to be fbrdablo with difTieulty at low water, its depth being three feet in
the shiJlowest places. Its current is rapid, and there is a fall of fifteen feet,
five miles below the Lake. About eigliteen miles below the lake it receives a
considerable stream from the northwest called Hot Spring Creek. In'
its valley, and around it, is also a largo extent of fine land. Nearly opposite, a
siiiiiil stream runs in from the East, and another from the same side ten ndles
l)cl(j\v, by which there are routes to the upper part of Big Blackfoot Valley.
Nunc of the branches of Clarke's Fork above the junction can be considered
n:ivij,'able, but the river itself, (Flathead,) with the exception of the rapids
and falls below the lake, whicli may be passed by a short canal, gives a naviga-
tion of at least seventy-fiv«! miles to the head of Flathead Lake. * » * •
About one hundred and thirty miles above the mouth of Clarke's Fork is the
IViid d'Oreille or Kalispelum Lake, which is a beautiful sheet of water about
forty-five miles in length, formed by the dilation of the river. Tlie river is
."luggish and wide for some twenty-six miles below the lake, where rapids occur
iliiriiig low water. Steamboats could ascend from this point to a point nine
inilt's above the lake, or eighty tniles in all. At high water they could ascend
iiiucli farther. Between the Cabinet (twenty-five miles above the lake) and a
]ioint seventy-five miles below the lake, (a total distance of one hundred and
forty miles,) the only obstacle which occurs is whe ■ '1' river is divided by
rocky islands, with a fall of six and a-half feet on ono side. The valley of
(liuke's Fork is generally wide, arable, and inviting settlement, though much
of it is wooded. «*###*****
From the divide of the Rocky Mountains to the divide of the Bitter Root
Jlountains there is an bitermediate resiion, over one-third of which is a cultiva-
hh area, and a large portion of it is prairie country, instead of a wooded or
mountain country. The following estimate gives in detail the areas of arable
Imd, so far as existing information enables it to be computed : In the region
watered by the Bitter Root River and its tributaries, not including Ilell-Gate,
the prairie region may be estimated at three thousand square miles ; in that
vtatercd by the Hell-Gate and its tributaries, including the whole country
south and west to the Bitter Root, but not including the Big Blackfoot, there
is a prairie region of two thousand five hundred square raileS ; in that watered
!' I
58G
MONTANA TKRUITOIIY.
l>y till' ]V\'^ Bliickfoot and its tribiitaric'<<, the prairie rcp;ion is one thousand throe
htuidri'il siitian' miles. The country watered by the Flathead River, down to
its junction with the Bitter Itoot, and tlienee down Clarke's Fork to the Cabini't
has a iirairie rei^ion of two thousand five hundred H<[iiare miles. Tlu; country
watered by tlie Kootenai has two thousand s((uare miles of prairie. Thus we
have, in round numbers, eleven thousand three hundred mpiare miles of prairie
bind. The whole area of the mountain re^^ion, (fW)m the divide of the Itoeky
Mountains to the divide of the Bitter Hoot, and from 45 30' t<i tl) ) is about
thirty thousand sijuare miles, and it will be a small estimate to put the arable
land of the prairie and the forest at twelve thousand square miles. 'ITiug the
country in the Forks of the Flathead and Bitter lloot, stretching away east
above the Blackfoot Canon is mostly table-land, well watensd and arable, ami
on all these tril)utaries — the Bitter lloot, the Hell-Gate, the Big Blackfoot, the
Jocko, the IMaple River, the Hot Sjtring River, and the Lou-Lou Fork itself—
the timber-laud will be found umpiestionably bet' *han the prairie-land. It
will not be in the immediate bottom or valley c nver where farmers will
find their best locations, but on the smaller tril ., some few miles above
their junction with the main streams. Tlie traveler passing up these rivers,
and seeing a little tributary breaking out in the valley, will on going up it, in-
variably come to an open and beautiful country. The observer who has passed
through this country oflen, who has had with him intelligent men who have
lived in it long, who understands intercourse with the Indians, and knows how
to verify information which they give him, will be astonished at the conclusions
which he will reach in regard to tlie agricultural advantages of this country,
and it will not be many years before the progress of settlements will establish
its superiority as an agricultural region."
The prediction of the hite distinguished explorer is
about to be realized, more rapidly perhaps than he had
ever contemplated. Though owing its rapid settlement
to the discovery of mines of gold and silver, Montana
Territory is destined to retain a large proportion of its
adventurous population, and to invite permanent settlers
by the greatness of her varied resources, for besides the
precious metals, her valleys abound in the more common
and useful materials of marble, limestone, cinnabar, cop-
per, sandstone, lead, plumbago, iron, coal, and the best of
timber for lumbering purposes. Add to these a most
healthful and delightful climate, and the most agreeable
scenery, and there is nothing left to desire which should
constitute a happy home for thousands of hardy emigrants.
MONTANA TEIIRITORY.
687
#
Rcmarha on the Climate of Montana. The first iiivol-
untiiry remark of those who liave never considered the
subject, is, that a railroad carried as far north as Montana
^vould be almost certain to be annually obstructed by-
snows. A brief review of the facts, however, will speedily
convince the intelligent reader that of the two roads the
Northern and the Central, the former will not be in as
much danger from a snow blockade as the latter. In the
first place, the actual altitude of the Rocky Mountains is
not so great in the latitude of Montana as it is on the lino
of the Central road by about two thousand feet. Secondly,
Montana has a climate modified both by the warm winds
that blow from the hot plains of the southwest, and over
the boiling springs of a large tract of volcanic country to
the south of it, or rather in its southern part. And besides
all these modifying local circumstances the isothermal line
which crosses it, and has its course westwardly to Puget's
Sound, has a mean annual temperature of 50°, thus deter-
mining the question of climate. ., ^ ......
Experience, however, is the one authority to which men
safely and confidently refer, and this is in favor of Montana.
If the reader has noted the fact so often mentioned in the
narrative portion of this book, that the hunters and trap-
pers of the Rocky Mountains seldom or never wintered
near the South Pass, but had their favorite wintering
grounds in the bend of the Yellowstone, or upon the bor-
ders of one of the affluents of the Missouri nearly directly
oast of the Pass talked of for the No 'thern Railroad, he
must at once have come to the conclusion that the climate
of this region is superior in mildness to thirt farther south.
It was here that the fur-hunters found grass and sweet cot-
ton-wood for their animals, and it was hei'e that game
resorted for food during the snows of winter in such
numbers as to fairly invade the camps of the companies.
t
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588
MONTANA TERRITORY.
-U''iv:^'li.v
Resources of Montana. Besides the precious metals,
which have yielded since 1864 a sum of $80,000,000,
Montana contains also an abundance of copper, iron, coal,
salt, and other metals and minerals. Its lumbering re-
sources are about equal to those of Washington Territory,
and its farming resources probably are s\iperior. Nowhere
in the new Territories is there a better opening for regular
and legitimate labor, notwithstanding iiiQ reputation of
Montana is based principally upon its mines.
.»>;:■;> •■'^
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■•n^'my
GENERaiL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 589
precious metals,
of $80,000,000,
)pper, iron, coal,
s lumbering re-
ngton Territory,
erior. Nowhere
ming for regular
e reputation of
LOS.
.' •* ■ i' , --
.; i' 'rt.
,-.l'VJ-
Of £5!
h --.^ m st
CHAPTER XLIX.
Climate of the Pacific Coast The Western coasts of
all large bodies of land have a warmer temperature than
the Eastern. Latitude on the Pacific coast seems to have
but little influence on climate, compared to its effect on
the coast of the Atlantic. Astoria, at the mouth of the
Columbia river, has a mean temperature of 54°, while
Nisqually, on Puget Sound, being a degree further north,
but also a considerable distance inland from the ocean, has
a mean temperature of 58.5". Frost seldom penetrates
the ground anywhere near the coast, and it never snows at
Astoria, though snow sometimes falls in the northern por-
tion of the Olympic peninsula in Washington Territory.
The places named, be it remembered, are in the same lat-
itu'le with the Lake Superior region and the Sault St.
Marie of the Western States, and of the frozen coast of
Nfiw Brunswick.
As we proceed inland greater extremes of heat and
cold are experienced. At Portland, which is in latitude
if''^ 30', the mean summer temperature is 60.33°, although
there are occasional days, two or three together, when the
thormometej- stands at 110° in the shade durinc: three or
four hours of the afternoon, suddenly falling, at the ap-
proach of evening. The winters in the interior vary
greatly in degrees of cold. It is very raiely that the
ground is frozen, or that snow lies upon the ground ; yet
the " oldest inhabitants " remember one winter when the
V
590 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST.
:.:l
thermometer fell to 15° beloAV zero in the Wallamet valley,
and to 20" below zero in the Umpqua valley, which is rather
more elevated. It is to elevation in fact that the great
differences of climate are due in this region. Sixty miles
away from Portland, in the Cascade Mountains, it is cold
and snowing heavily, when there is a warm rain at tliis
point. Snow also falls in the Coast Mountains, while on
either side of them there is perpetual verdure.
At the Dalles, very nearly east of Portland, but on the
other side of the Cascade Mountains, there is an entirely
different climate. From the superior elevation of the
country w^e might look for much more severe cold in win-
ter, and a cooler temperature in summer. But here anoth-
er modifying influence comes in — that of the warm air from
the great burning plains of California and the south. The
Cascade Mountains intercept the moisture from the ocean,
which is discharged in rain on the valleys cf Western Ore-
gon, while Eastern Oregon lies under a cloudless sky, and
is warmed by the heated air from the rainless country far-
ther to the south. This rarefied air rising, causes the set-
ting in of the strong current of air from the ocean which
gives to Western Oregon its steady prevailing winds;
these winds blowing from the northwest in summer, and
from ttie southwest in winter. Under these influences
while Western Oregon and Washington have a moist cli-
mate, Eastern Oregon and Idaho have a very dry climate.
The summers are hot and dry, frosts commence in October,
but the winter does not begin until quite late, and lasts
but a short time, with little rain and snow. Ten degrees
below zero is reckoned exceedingly cold on these plains.
Nearer to the mountain ranges to the cast, there is more
rain, and greater variability of climate, though it still con-
tinues mild. On the Clearwater, in Northern Idaho, three
years observations place the mean temperature at 53* ;
EST COAST.
Wallamet valley,
y, which is rather
it that the great
ion. Sixty miles
untains, it is cold
iTarm rain at this
untains, while on
srdure.
•tland, but on the
re is an entirely
elevation of the
ivere cold in win-
But here anoth-
the warm air from
d the south. The
e from the ocean,
3 of Western Ore-
cloudless sky, and
nless country far-
g, causes the set-
the ocean which
)revailing winds;
t in summer, and
these influences
have a moist cli-
very dry climate,
lence in October,
te late, and lasts
w. Ten degrees
. on these plains.
ist, there is more
lough it still con-
lern Idaho, three
perature at 53' ;
GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST.
591
and at Ft. Colville the mercury sometimes rises to 100°
ill summer, and falls to 12'^ in winter. This portion of the
country is subject to heavy frosts in Spring, which makes
the season of planting and harvesting shorter.
Captain Mullan accounts for the :jiild climate of the
Rocky Mountains in Montana by supposing that the infi-
nite number of hot-springs and geysers which exist at the
head- waters of the Columbia, Missouri, and Yellowstone
Rivers, must modify the climate of this elevated region.
He also says further : . ■•
'•llic meteorological statistics collected during a great number of years have
enabled us to trace an isocluincnal line across the continent, from St. Josej)h's,
Mi-ssouri, to the Pacific, and the direction taken by this line is wonderful and
worthy the most important attention in all future legislation that looks towards
till! travel and settlement of this country. Ihis line which leaves St. Joseph's
in latiuide 40", follows the general line of the Platte to F irt Laramie, where,
tinm newly introduced causes, it t-nds northwestwardly between the Wind
Rivur chain and the Black Hills, < 'lie summit of the Rocky Mountains in
lalitiide 47" ; showinsr that in the ii
• )m
Si
ph's it had
<\
di','rcc3 of latitude. Tracing it still further we i ward it goes as high as 48",
and developes itself in a fan-like shape in the plain-j of the Cohnnbia. From
I'ort Laramie to the Clarke's Fork, I call this an atnK^ pheric river ui' heat, vary-
ing' in width from one to one hundred miles. On its either side, north anil -outh,
are walls of cold air, and wliicli are so clearly perceptible, that you .Jways
(li'tt'c't when you are upon its shores.
It would seem natural that the large volume of air in motion between the
Wind lliver chain and the Black Hills must receive a certain amount of heat as
it passes over the line of hot boiling springs here found, which, ail led to the
great heat evolved from the large volumes of water here existin;;. rh is con-
stantly cumulative, must all tend to modify its temperatui-e to i. , extent that
the thermometer detects. The prevalent direction of the winds, the physical
liiec of the country, its altitude, and the large volume of water, all, doubtless.
enter to create this modification ; but from whatsoever cause it arises, it exists
as a fact that must for all time enter as an element worthy of every attention
in lilies of travel and communication from the eastern plains to the north Pa-
cific. A comparison of the altitude of tlie South Pass, with the country on its
every side, with MuUan's Pass, further to the north, may be useful in this con-
neetion. The South Pass has an altitude of seven thousand four hundred and
eiijihty-nine feet above the level of the sea. The Wind River chain, to its
north, rises till it attains, at Fremont's Peak, an elevation of thirteen thousand
five hundred and seventy feet, while to the north the mountains increase in al-
38
\ m
i ;
ill!
'■:■ si
it
li-
lt
I'
"TW.
592 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST CO^ , T.
titude till they attain, at Long's Peak, an elevation of fifteen thousand feef
while the plains to the east have an elevation of six thousand feet, and the
mountains to the west, forming the east rim of the great basin, have an elevation
of eight thousand two hundred and thirty-four feet, and the country between it
and the South Pass an elevation of six tliousand two hundred and thirty-
four feet above the level of the sea. Tlie highest point on the .oad in the
summit line at MuUan's Pass has an elevation of six thousand feet, which is
lower by fourt-^en hundred and eighty-nine feet than the South Pass, and allow-
ing what we find to be here the case, viz : two hundred and eighty leet of alti-
tude for each degree of temperature, we see that JluUan's Pass enjoys six de-
grees of milder temperature, due to this difi'erence of altitude alone. At the
South Pass are many high snow peaks, as Fremont's Peak, Three Ttjtons,
Laramie Peak, Long's Peak, and others, all of vhicdi must tend to modify the
temperature ; whereas, to the north we have no high snow peaks, but the
mountains have a general elevation of from seven to eigh^ thousand feet above
the level of the sea, and of most marked uniformity in point of altitude.
The high range of the Wind River chain stands as a curvilinear wall to
deflect and direct the currents of the atmosphere as they sweep across the con-
tinent. All their slopes are well located to reflect back the direct rays of the
heat of the sun to the valleys that lay at their bases. These valleys, already
warm by virtue of the hot springs existing among them, receive this acciimula-
ti »e heat, which, driven by the new currents of cold air (rom the plains, rises
and moves onward in the form of a river towards the valleys of the Rocky
Mountains, wliere it joins the milder current from tlie Pacific and diffuses ovtr
the whole region a mild, healthy, invigorating, and useful climate."
While the climate of the Valleys, Plains, and Mountains
is such as we have described, it is possible to find almost
every mudification of heat and cold, and moisture and
dryness, within these general limits, by seeking certain al-
titudes or depiessions more or less remote from the sea,
and having the aid of certain other influences. The vales
of Italy, or the glaciers of Switzerland are alike accessible.
■ Beclamation of Dry Lands by Irrigation. In a recent
letter of Hon. J* hn Bidwell, of California, is the follow-
ing sensible proposition : ,
" There arc millions of acres of dry .and appaiently sterile land to be fonrni
all over the Pacific slope. Is it always to rciiain in the present condition?
There exists no necessity that it should do so. Tlie land possesses in abun-
dance all the elements (jf fertility. There is one and but one remedy — irriga-
tion. Some have prejudices against irrigation, that must be overcome, because
3ST COx T.
fifteen thousand feet;
housand feet, and the
)asin, have an elevation
the country between it
0 hundred and thirty-
oint on the .oad in the
thousand feet, which is
South Pass, and allow-
and eighty feet of alti-
in's Pass enjoys six de-
altitude alone. At the
s Peak, Three Tet«ns,
nust tend to modify the
li snow peaks, but the
<rhv thousand feet above
point of altitude,
as a curvilinear wall to
ey sweep across the con-
:k the direct rays of the
These valleys, already
n, receive this acciimula-
air li-oiu the plains, rises
lie valleys of the Rocky
Pacific and diffuses over
sful climate."
ins, and Mountains
ble to find almost
ind moisture and
seeking certain al-
ote from the sea,
hences. The vales
■c alike accessible.
lion. In a recent
■uia, is the follow-
sterile land to be found
the present condition?
land possesses in abun-
but one remedy— irriga-
lust be overcome, because
GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 593
jt will rci ■'•'> the united efTortof all who have a property interest in the State,
to begin and carry on such an enterprise upon a scale worthy of the object in
view. Once acconipli.shed, lands that are now absolutely worthless would
liucoine most valuable. The same encouragement should, in my judjimont, be
[riven to bringing water on land that is worthless without it, as to take water
from land that is useless with it. The dry, as well as the sw.amp, lands require
reclamation— one will cost relatively as much as the other. Why, then, should
not the (Joveruinent be willing to donate the dry lauds to the State as well as
the fwamp lands ?"
to which the Alta California adds: ' •
" It is strictly true that there are millions of acres in California now lying
unclaimed, unproductive, unoccupied, and worthless, simply because of lack of
irrigiUlon, which might be supplied. If our State were as well jn-ovided with
ditches as Avas ancient Judca, Sjiain under the Arabs, or India <at the present
day, we should have thrice as much land fit for gardens as we actually have.
More dry land than swamp needs reclamation in Cal^''ornia. The waters of
winter and the snows of the Sierras, by careful management, might be made to
yield as much treasure as the auriferous sands of the Sacramento basin. Other
nations have reclainu'd tracts as large and as dry as the San Joaquin and Tulai'e
valleys, and why should we not do as much ?"
The same necessity will exist for irrigation in Eastern
Oregon and Idaho that exists in California at present, and
the means for irrigation are much more abundant, inas-
much as there are thousands of mountain streams of the
very best water which might be conveyed and converted
to purposes of irrigation. The climate of the West Coast
is in all respects very similar to that of ancient Judea,
Spain, and other countries where by irrigation the barren
plains were made gardens of beauty. The great aque-
ducts of the Romans, and even those of the Spaniards in
Mexico, still remain to testify to the importance and value
of irrigation in warm and dry countries. There will yet be
some wonderful engineering performed west of the Rocky
Mountains, proving that Moderns are nowise inferior in
energy or expedients to the Ancients.
Productiveness of the soil. There is no country which
will better repay the expense of irrigation than this. Al-
594 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST.
I'U^
most every square mile, not entirely naked rock, is rich
and productive to a wonderful degree. You have only to
cast seed and water upon the loose sand-hills about San
Francisco in California, to have them become beds of
bloom. Wherever water is given to the soil anywhere,
vegetation springs up. •■m
In Western Oregon, where there is plenty of moisture,
there is a perfectly wonderful amount of vegetation, from
gigantic trees to gigantic ferns ; and never has the farmer
failed of his harvest since the settlement of the country.
There is no doubt whatever but some method will be
found of neutralizing the effect of the too great propor-
tion of alkali in some parts of Eastern Oregon, by which
process great results in the way of grain and vegetables
may be expected. Those foot-hills of the mountains
where the light volcanic ash is found, ought to be put into
grape culture, as there is no better soil for the production
of that delicious fruit. There are marsh lands for meadows
and uplands for sheep-grazing ; in short, every reasonable
want of humanity may be supplied in this truly wonder-
ful region, which will become in time the glory and pride
of the great Republic of the United States.
Scenenj of the North- West Coast. Hardly can there be
in any one country in the world more of the elements of
the grand and wonderful than are to be found among the
mountains, and along the rivers of Oregon and the adja-
cent Territories. The massive size and extent of the
Rocky Mountains rather lessens the idea of their superior
height, but the steeper slopes of the Cascade Mountains,
rising as they do, on one side, from a valley, and made
more striking by the numbers of snowy peaks, covered
too with magnificent forests far up their rugged sides, all
enhances their appearance of grandeur.
But it is when they are explored and their solitary won-
V
;ST COAST.
T
GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST.
595
their solitary won-
ders brought to view that their real magnificence is under-
stood. Notwithstanding their narrow base, the Cascade
Mountains are not to be crossed by one dividing ridge, but
are formed of many ridges running in all directions, and
thrown together in extraordinary confusion, making awful
chasms which impede the progress of the explorer, and
presenting acclivities up which it is in vain to attempt to
proceed. Once upon their summits, however, and the
traveler's toil is repaid. "In one view he may embrace
the rugged steeps of the Green Mountains, the biue,
wooded slopes of the Alleghanies, and the ice-crowned
peaks of the Alps; the volcanic piles ol the Andes, the
broad plateaux of Brazil, the fertile prairies of the upper
Mississippi, and the lawns, groves and copses of the sunny
South. To the eastward he beholds an immense plateau,
or elevated plain, relieved at distant intervals by spurs
from the mountain chains, and sloping gently in different
directions, toward the various streams, which, wending
their way through mountain gorges to the ocean, or to
some silent lake, drain the eastern portion of the State.
To the west he surveys a country diversified by great rivers,
and small streamlets; by tall mountains, and deeply embo-
somed vale ; by gentle undulations, and precipitous, high-
walled canons; by dark, frow. ing forests of pine and fir,
spruce and cedar, which the eye fails to penetrate, and
natural gardens all carpeted over with luxuriant grasses,
redolent with the odors of wild flowers, and full of the
music of winged choristers."
Down the precipitous cliffs rush mountain torrents, leap-
ing from rock to rock, by their number giving to this
chain of mountains their characteristic name. And when
these mountain torrents have reached the level of the
plain below they scarcely lose their mountain peculiarities,
but go dashing and foaming over rocky beds, almost to
I
i
I
i
i;-
596 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST.
their very mouths ; so much disturbed by rocks, and so
rapid that very few rivers having their source in the Cas-
cade Mountains can ever be made navigable.
Very many curious things are found on the summits of
the Rocky and Cascade Mountains ; wonderful lakes, moun-
tains of cinders, fresh as if just from the volcanic forge ;
sea-shells and corals. One of these wonderful mountain
lakes is thus described by a gentleman who visited it :
" Upon risinfj; the slope bounding tlie lake, the firft hnprcfision made upon
your mind is one of disai)pointnient ; it does not come up to your expectations;
but this is only momentary. A second look and you begin to comprehend the
majestic beauties of the scenery spread out before you, and you sit down on the
brink of the precipice, and feast your eyes on the awful grandeur; your thoughts
wander back thousands of years to the time when, where now is a placid sheet
of water, there was a lake of fire, throwing its cinders and ashes to a vast dis-
tance in every direction. The whole surroundings prove this lake to be the
crater of an extinct volcano. Tlie appearance of the water in the basin, as
seen from the top of the mountain, is that of a vast circular sheet of canvass,
upon which some painter had been exercising his art. Tlie color of the water
is blue, but in very many different shades, and like the colors in variegated silk,
continually changing. Now a spot will be dark blue, almost approaching black,
in the next moment it will change to a very pale blue ; and it is thus continu-
ally changing from one shade to another. I cannot account for this changeable-
ncss, as the sky was perfectly cleai", and it could not have been caused by any
shadows ; there was, however, a gentle breeze which caused a ri2)ple of the
waters ; this may account for it.
At first sight a person would not estimate the surface of the water to be more
than two or three hundred feet below the summit of the surrounding bluffs ; and
it is only atlcr a steady look, almost perpendicularly down into the water, that
you begin to comprehend the distance. In looking down into the lake the
vision seems to stop before reaching the bottom, and, to use a common expres-
sion, you have to look twice before you see the bottom.
Heretofore it has been thought by those who have visited the lake, that it
was impossible to get to the water, and this was also my impression at first
eight, and I should have been contented to remain on the summit, and view its
beauties from that point, without attempting to get to the water, but for Ser-
geant Stearns and ISIr. Ford, who, after gazing awhile from the top, disappeared
over the precipice, and in a few minutes were at the bottom, near the water's
edge, where no human being ever stood before. Their shouts induced Mr.
Coats and myself to attempt the feat, which is in fact only perilous in imagina-
tion. A spring of water bursts out of the mountain near the top, on the side
where we were, and by following down the channel which the water has made,
• COAST.
GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST.
m
rocks, and so
rcG in the Cas-
he summits of
'ill lakes, moun-
olcanic forge;
irful mountain
I visited it :
prossion made upon
0 your cx])C!ctations;
n to comprehend the
you sit down on the
idcur ; your thoughts
now is a placid sheet
1 ashes to a vast dis-
' this lake to be the
rater in the basin, as
lar sheet of canvass,
he color of the water
)rs in variegated silk,
St approaching black,
nd it is thus continu-
t for this changeable-
1 been caused by any
lused a ripple of the
the water to be more
rounding bluffs ; and
n into the water, that
\vn into the lake the
ise a common expres-
itcd the lake, that it
ny impression at first
summit, and view its
c water, but for Ser-
the top, disappeared
tom, near the water's
shouts induced IVIr.
Y perilous in imagina-
ir the top, on the side
the water has made,
a good footing may be established all the way down. In all probability, this Is
llic only place in tlie whole circumference of the lake where the water is accessi-
ble, although Sergeant Stearns clambered around tlie edge of the lake for a short
distance, and ascended to the summit by a did'erent route from the one we
(lescended ; yet he does not thiidc he could go down where he came up. The
water in the lake is clear as crystal, and about the same temperature with tlie
well water in llogue River valley. We saw no fish of any kind, nor evi'u
insects in the water ; the only thing we saw that indicated that there are fish
in the lake was a kingfisher. In ascending, I measured the distance as well as
I could, from point to point, by the eye, and conclude that it is from seven to
eight liundred feet perpendicular from the water to the summit of the blulV.
'flic lake seems to be very nearly circular, and is from seven to eight miles in
diameter ; and except at two or three points, the bluff is about the same altitude.
Near the western shore of the lake is an island, about one-half mile in diame-
ter, upon which there is considerable timber growing. The island is not more
than one-quarter of a mile from the western shore of the lake, and its shape is
a frustruni of a cone : the top seems to be depressed, and I think there is a small
crater in the summit of the island. I think a path could be made from the
suiuuiit to the water's edge, at the western edge of the lake ; for the formation
seems to be entirely pomice stone at that point, and to slope to the water's edge
at a less angle than any place else around the lake ; at this point also, a
boat could be let safely down to the water by a rope.
I do not know who first saw this lake, nor do I think it should be named after
the discoverer. Sergeant Stearns and Peyton Ford are the first white men who
ever reached its waters, and if named after any person, should be named for
them ; but as I do not believe a more majestic sheet of water is to be found
upon the face of the globe, I propose the name of " Majesty." It will be visited
by thousands hereafter, and some person would do well to build upon its banks
a house where visitors could be entertained, and to keep a boat or boats upoa
its waters, that its beauties might be seen to a better advantage.'
The grandeur of the Columbia River, which has else-
where been partially described, the wonders of Puget
Sound, the splendor of the snow-peaks bathed in sunrise
or sunset colors, the noble Mt. Hood blushing like a rose
from summit to base — the beautiful blue and purple of
the distant ranges, either east or west, all these united,
make Oregon and Washington more remarkable for scenery
than any other States in the Union, not excepting re-
nowned California, and mountainous Nevada.
Advantages for Commerce. We make use of the foUow-
i !
698 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST.
ing extract copied from a Report on the Wealth- and Re-
sources of Oregon^ and which applies equally well to Wash-
ington, only adding to the sections enumerated, the names
of other sections north of the Columbia :
" The internal trade of Oregon will always he confined to the trade between
tlie agricultural counties in the Wallaniet, Unipcjuu, and Rogue Rivtr valleys,
and the mining counties of Eastern Oregon and Idaho Territory, and will con-
sist simply in the transportation of the produce and manufacture of one section
to the other, to be exchanged for the bullion or coin of the mines, and will bo
carried on by means of a railroad to be constructed tlirough the Wallamet
valley, terminating at some point on the Colunibia, from which river steamers
■will ply as far up as the centre of Idaho. To satisfy the most incredulous that
this trade will be rapidly and greatly enlarged, we have only to look at its
present rapid growth, the territory to be accommodated, and its resources.
The extent of country which is tributary to the agricultural resources of
Oregon is embraced in all that country from the summit of the Rocky Moun-
tains westward to the Cascade Range, and between the head-waters of the
northern and southern branches of the great Columbia, and reaching from the
head of the Owyhee on the south, away to the Kootenai River and its lately
discovered rich mines on the border of British America, being an extent of
country about eight liundrcd miles wide, and nine hundred miles long, or seven
hundred and twenty thousand square miles. This vast, and as yet almost
unexplored region, is by no means barren or inhospitable. The Catholic Mis-
sionaries have maintained their Missions among the Indians at the farthest
point north for many years, raising all the vegetables and grain necessary for
their use. Throughout the whole extent there are now nuning settlements
spreading in every direction. What was two years ago a vast, unbroken
wilderness, inhabited only by wild beasts and Indians, now contains not less
than thirty thousand American citizens, with cities and towns, saw-mills, quartz
mills, flouring mills, with all the busy hum of peaceful industry. And from
this great internal, mountain locked basin, is now being shipped down the
Columbia one million dollars of gold-dust per month, in exchange for flour,
bacon, beans, and merchandise sent up. Tliis handsome yield of gold will,
according to the present rate of progress, be increased to two and a half or
three millions per month in the course of another year.
Oregon possesses peculiar facilities for the creation and maintenance of a
large foreign commerce. She possesses unlimitod means for building ships-
timber, copper, iron, coal, water-power, agricultural productions, a harbor
equal to that of New York, and a maritime situation on the direct line of that
immense trade carried on by the nations of the West with the nations of the
East. The harbor of the Columbia River looks out upon the ports of Russisin
America, British Columbia, and Vancouver Island, the west coast of Mexico,
Central America, New Granada. Equador, Peru, Chili, and Patagonia on the
w ■»■! tm
' COAST.
''calth and Re-
well to Wash-
ted, the names
•> the trade between
lof^ue Kivir valleys,
rilory, and will con-
icture of one section
3 mines, and will bo
jugh the Walhimet
^hich river steamers
lost incredulous that
e only to look at its
nd its resources,
cultural resources of
if the Rocky Moun-
! head-waters of the
nd reaching from the
River and its lately
, being an extent of
1 miles long, or seven
and as yet almost
The Catholic Mis-
idians at the farthest
1 grain necessary for
y mining settlements
go a vast, unbroken
now contains not less
ivns, saw-mills, quartz
industry. And fi-om
g shipped down the
n exchange for Hour,
ne yield of gold will,
to two and a half or
nd maintenance of a
for building ships—
roductions, a harbor
;he direct line of that
th the nations of the
the ports of Russian
west coast of Mexico,
md Patagonia on the
(JENKIIAL RKMAUKS ON THK NORTHWEST COAST.
599
American Continent, and on tho Eastern ports of the Russian Empire, India,
(.'liiuii, Japan, Australia, the Islands of Oceanica, the Sandwich Islaudn, and
the whale fisheries. The ports of all these countries are much rearer to the
Columbia River than they are to any of the ports of the Atlantic! States.
Tiicy are all of easy access, and there is no reason why Orej^on should not
coininenec competing for their trade. In tho year 18G0 tho United States
exported to the above named ports domestic produce amounting to the sura of
Sill»,U4.'j,!J'J8, and imported from the same places, in exchange, the produce of
said countries amounting to. $19,551,180, Tho imports from China alono
amounted to $i;5,5fiG,587. ' But wc are told that the Pacific Coast cannot eom-
])('te with the Atlantic States for this trade. The custom-house exhibit shows
that the Pacific Coast can and does compete for this trade already, and not only
this, but also tho trade to Liverpool."
Then follow quotations from the " Market Review" of
the San Francisco Bulletin which show that the export
trade from the port of San Francisco for 1864, amounted
to $6,337,090.38; an increase of two millions over the
year 1862. ' - . • ■ .
" How much of this produce exported from San Francisco should be credited
to Oregon, we arc unable to say, but that a large portion of it is Oregon ])ro-
duce, we know from the fact that the steamers and sailing vessels plying be-
tween San Francisco and tho Columbia River, always return to Calitbrnia
freighted with Oregon produce. We simply give this report to show what has
already been done in foreign exportation from San Francisco, and even admit-
ting that it is all California produce, we know very well that Avhat will pay a
California fiirmer to ship abroad, will also pay an Oregon farmer, with equal
advantages.
Tlie only matter which should now prevent tlie merchants of the Pacific
Coast from becoming importers to the United States of the teas, coffee, spices,
barks, dye-woods, cotton, sugar, rice, Japanese ware, matting, gold and silver
of the above named countries, is, that we have not yet got the ships, or money
to do this business. For the year ending Juno 1st, 1864, Shanghae, China,
exported more than $25,000,000 worth of cotton, and now we should endeavor
to exchange our jiroduce for this cotton of China, and manufacture it hero in
Oregon, and build up a Lowell on the Pacific.
This golden harvest of trade is not yet ours, but when the Northern Pacific
Railroad shall have been completed, it will become ours from tho necessity of
the case. ^Vliat we want most now is a lino of ships nmning direct from Now
York to the Columbia River, bringing out our merchandise, and carrying back
via China and the East Indies, our produce, lumber, spars, &c. We are now
paying an immense annual tax to California capitalists by receiving and ship-
ping everything through the San Francisco warehouses. All our wheat, wool,
'4
''-' '^^^^^m^mi'
>ull
F^II|^^^^^^KT;i
r
1^
^
GOO GENERAL IIEMAUK8 ON THE NORTHWEST COAST.
&c., tliat, reaches a foroifjn market., exoppt what litthi direct tra(h> wo hare with
tiie Samlwich Islaiuls, is shipju-d first to San Francisco, wlicre it has to nay
wliarfajrc, drayaffe, Htoni^^c and conunission, before it can bo reshipped. Our
iiicrcliandisc coiniii'; to tliis State lias to pass tiiroii;;h tlie same taxing imx-ess
at San Francisco, in adilition to tlic profits of tiu; iniportcu' l)i'(()re it. It is no
wonder that Orcijon is in the shade of California, and it oiiij;lit to remain so as
long as wc will not make some clTort to remedy this state of aifain . '
The above quotation throws some light upon the com-
mercial condition of the Northwest Coast, and explains
pretty clearly the feeling of its people regarding that po-
sition. So far the Manufactures of this countr)- have
been confined to lumber, flour, woolen goods, some coarse
leather, a little turpentine, an inferior article of ^(Ottery,
a limited quantity of matches, and as much mav.'n" i^ry as
three or four small foundries and machine shops could
turn out. Everything that is used on the farm, in the
garden, household, or in the mines, is imported at a great
expense. Iron has begun to be manufactured in Oregon,
and so has salt, but the complete development of these
things must wait, first for capital ; secondly, for railroads.
Probable Railroad Routes. The only railroad under
construction on the whole Northwest Coast, is the one
now building doAvn the Wallamet Valley, and called the
Oregon Central. It is intended to connect the Columbia
River with San Francisco Bay, and will form a portion of
that great line of railway by which Lake Superior, Puget
Sound, and San Francisco Bay will eventually be united.
Owing to the influence exerted by Portland capital, the
Oregon Central has been commenced at that point, but
that Portland will long remain the northern terminus is
incredible, when its position, and its distance from tfee
Columbia River are considered. A point for the northern
terminus of the Oregon Central will undoubtedly be fixed
where it will connect by ferriage over the Columbia, with
a road down the Cowelitz Valley from Puget Sound, thus
GENKUAL Uli.MARKS ON TUE NOUTUWEai COAST.
601
makiiii:^ one continuous rorid tlirouf^h the whole length of
Wusliiui,4uii, Oi't'goii, and Calilornia, as tur as San Fran-
cisco, if nol as I'ar as San Diego.
The question undeeided at present by tlie Oregon Cen-
tnd is, Avhetluir to carry the road over the (.'alnpooya,
Uni})(|uu, and Siskiyou Mountains, directly south, and
open up the IJmpqua and Rogue River ValUiys to com-
merce, or to take it by a single easy pass through the
Cascade ^fountains, at or near Diamond Peak, and thence
southward along the almost level country to the head-
waters of the Sacramento. The latter would be the cheap-
est of construction, and might be made to form a branch
of the Central Pacific, while the former would take iu its
course some of the most desirable country in Oregon. ,
Strong efforts are being made to get a branch road from
the Union Pacific to some point on the upper Columbia,
either at the Dalles, Umatilla, or Wallula. It is said that
in case the road comes to the Dalles it will cross the river
there, and pass on down the Columbia to some point be-
low the mouth of the Wallamet, either there to build up a
commercial town, or to connect with the road up the
Cowelitz Valley going north, and the Oregon Central,
going south.
Idaho and Montana are waiting on the action of these
railroad projectors, glad to see communication with the
coast made easy on any terms, and willing to lend their
aid to the first company in the field.
A strong sentiment, however, prevails throughout the
Northwest in favor of the Northern Pacific Railroad. To
this favorite enterprise, Montana and Idaho, Washington
and Oregon, all and each, lend their preference, and so far
as it is available, are willing to lend their material aid. All
understand that the Columbia River, taken in conjunction
with Puget Sound, offers to the commerce of the whole
r
11 ^
602 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST.
Pacific the most complete resources wliich the trade of the
world could require. And every intelligent citizen of the
Northwest loolcs forward in fancy to a day when busy
millions shall occupy this territory we have so inefficiently
described, and when it shall be the most favored portion
of the greatest earthly Republic.
When Thomas II. Benton, in a speech delivered at St.
Louis, in 1845, prophjcied that the men then listening to
him should see with li^'ing eyes a railroad to the Pacific
Ocean, and the trade of China and Japan flowing over it,
he was believed to be an enthusiast, if no worse. In
twenty-four years his prophecy has been accomplished,
and doubtless some of his hearers of that day have enjoyed,
or will yet enjoy, a trip by railway across the continent.
But Benton's pet scheme was a railroad which was to
connect with the mouth of the Columbia River. It was
Oregon, then undivided, that he looked to as the greatest
country on the American continent. Perhaps some lis-
tener to his speech of 1845, may live to see his judgment
vindicaLed. That is oar hope at least.
THE END.
COAST.
e trade of the
citizen of the
r when busy
!0 inefficiently
^^ored portion
livered at St.
n listening to
to the Pacific;
owing over it,
10 worse. In
accomplished,
have enjoyed,
e continent.
which was to
River. It was
as the greatest
laps some lis-
his judgment
33X1.. lSi,A.-SII-3Sl*ISi
GREAT PICTORIAL WORK,
ARCTIC EXPLORATIOIS,
CONTAINING OBAPIIIO DELINEATIONS OV
LIFE AMID THE ICE,
THE WONDERS OF THE GREAT POLAR GEA, AND THE
MARVELOUS ESCAPE OF THE EXPLORERS
FROM THE
RELENTLESS FRCST-LAND,
WHICH ao Lono htld thkm in m oraip,
ILLUSTRATED WITH TWENTT-TlIREii ELEQANT FULL PAGE, AND NEARLY THREE HUNDBKD
OTUER ENORAVINGS ON STEEL AND WOOD, PROU SKETCHES BY TUE AUTHOR.
WirH A BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH UY DR. KANE,
JTi. PROF. CHARLES W. 8U1ELD8, D. D., OV PKINJETON COLLEOE, N. J.
This celebrated work is published in One Elegant Octavo Volume of 768
pages. It is sold by subscription, and furnished to subscribers at the follow-
ing prices :
In Fine Cloth, $4,50
" " " Gilt Edge, 5,00
" " Leather, Library style, 5,00
'' " Half-Turkey, Gilt Edge 7,60 .,>.,^.
" " Full " " " 10,00
Copies will be sent by mail or express, prepaid, to persons residing in towns
where there are no Agents for the work, on receipt of the retail price.
iV;f>-
This sublime and niovinfr narrati\ o will have a charm and a power among men as long
as heroism continues to giiin reveroncc. No library in the laud will bo tolerably com-
plete without it. — Neiv York Independeiri.
It is a wonderful book, and will bo for future ages one of the proudest monuments of
our mitivo land. — Protectant Churchman.
A nnrrativo of actual fact and experience, it yet possesses the fascination of the most
intensely wrought fiction. — Ghurrh Advocate.
Few novels wore ever written tluit aro so fuscinating ant* so thrilling ns this anstudiod
«toryof un endurance that was heroic, and a daring that wcs sublime. — Libei alWiristian.
We commend the work with emphasis and without qi'alification, as ono which equally
fascinates, instructs, and kindles the reader.. — Morniiuj iStar, Dover, N. H.
Kane's Arctic Explorations. — Wo shall never forget the deep interest, almost reach-
ing cntliusiasm, witli M'hich the public first read the romantic and thrilling adventures
ol' Dr. Kane in the Arctic regions, and a new edition of that valuable book will be
warmly welcomed. It will never grow old ; it is too great a contribution to science to
be laid upon the slielf ; it is too intrinsically interesting in its well-wrought narrative to
become a thing of tho past, and the later journeys into the ice-regions by Hayes and
otliers only cnlT renewed attention to the former work of Dr. Kane. Tlie book, is beau-
tifully illustrated with stool plates and now cuts, and is to bo roconmiended in all re-
spects. It. W. Bliss & Co., ot Hartford, Ct. , ..re the publishers, and tiiey have performoi
their part of tho work in a very creditable mimuer. — Waiehman <£ Uejiector, Jioston.
Agents wanted.
Address
R. W. BLISS & CO., Hartford, Ct, and Toledo, Ohio.
BLISS & CO., Newark, N. J.
R. J. TRUMBULL *c CO., San Francisco, Cal.
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